fULAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA^ TABLES AND DIAGRAMS ILLUSTRATING ECONOMY IN CUTTING JOHN FALCONER. v-vvvvvyvvvVvvTYVYVinnnryrYVY^ "AT- Mat)/ Ann j$ eviedie (Decoratii^cArr Qoueftioru STEllLl N G AND FRAN CINE CLARJC ART INSTITUTE L1BRART ^H^7^^S^i3^^=^^M wur tj£&^ ^^^^^^^^ B SaS* SBBiill tcHs?^vJ Oliaellill ^^^^B ill^lltlli pllllpfni ffMtii KF§lifiS r^v — zrzYiJp?^" i-i gBRl BB > s >' fc (2\Ud> A SERIES OF Tables and Diagrams ILLUSTRATING ECONOMY IN CUTTING, BEING Economical Methods for Cutting Out Garments. BY JOHN FALCONER, Author of "The Art of Cutting by Model Patterns," and First Prize Economist. EDITED BY JOHN WILLIAMSON. "The best source of wealth is Economy."- Cicero, THIRD EDITION.— ENLARGED. PRICE, SEYEN SHILLINGS AND SIXPENCE. LOnSTTDOiT: PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY JOHN WILLIAMEON & Co., AT " THE TAILOR AND CUTTER " OFFICE, 93 & 94 DRURT LANE, W.C. f / fVi 1 m- LONDON : PRINTED BY JOHN WILLIAMSON & CO., AT " THE TAILOR AND CUTTER'' OFFICE, 93 & 94 DRURY LANE, W.C. 6- Publisher's Preface TO THE THIED EDITION. —>»♦♦ < The importance and necessity of just such a work as this on Economy in Cutting has found ample proof in the disposal of the First Edition in less than one month, in a Second Edition being again exhausted, and in our now being called upon to introduce a Third. Such a work is bound to be popular, its advantages come so closely home to every cutter, and we are pleased to record that the efforts of both Author and Publisher have been so fully appreciated. From no other publishing firm has emanated so many works relating to cutting, fitting, and practical tailoring, and so much is the time and attention of cutters devoted to these features of their profession, that the matter of Economy in Cutting is, in many cases, perhaps, comparatively a secondary consideration. Tis true, that in the cutting of a garment, saving a quarter of material is of small importance when compared with its good or bad fit. But where, from experience, or the use of our Tailor and Cutter Reliable Model and Special Patterns, the fit may be pretty well assured, even a quarter of material on each coat cut would very soon bulk to a tolerably large amount. At the present time, when competition runs so high and prices must be cut so fine, it became forcibly impressed upon us that a work might very advantageously be entirely devoted to Economy in Cutting. We had little difficulty in selecting an author of thorough practical experience for this work : Mr. Falconer having devoted special atten- tion to the matter of Economy. The completeness with which Mr. . Falconer has done his work, will be found in the fact of its containing no less than thirty-six Plates illustrating different lays, ranging from one to four garments on each lay or illustration. The Tables describe the Plates ; giving the garment or garments, their sizes, and the quantities of material from which they can very comfortably be cut. When the First Edition was published, some objected that there were no lays for materials 54 inches wide. The author being consulted publisher's preface. upon this, said it was only the most inferior cloths that were made 54 inches wide; few of the cloths he himself cut were so narrow as 54 inches. Adding, however, that the matter could be very easily met by using a lay suitable for the next size larger pattern ; for example, if you wish to cut a 36 breast Lounge suit out of narrow cloth, and it will not come on the plan of diagram 22, which represents 56 inch cloth, try it by dia. 23. When the lay is suitable for 40 breast, if the cloth is 56 inches wide, it will only be suitable for a 38 breast if the cloth is 54 inches wide, or for a 36 breast if it is narrower than that, and so on. He has now included in the present edition a few more lays suitable for narrow cloths and disproportionate figures, which were also a source of difficulty with some of the original lays. These, he hopes, will greatly enhance the value of the work ; but, in most cases, the lays are so easy and simple, that by a little humouring the same lay will give the garments, even if the cloth is an inch or two narrower, or if there is a considerable amount of disproportion. We must specially observe, that in no case have the garments, or any part of them, been in any way sacrificed ; every piece is perfect and complete, with all the usual inlays, including the flaps to the Morning coats and, to some of the coats, cuffs. In many cases, the facings are whole and complete without a piece. The patterns used are our own Reliable Model Patterns. According to Tables which form part of the work, it is shown that each lay is adapted to several different sizes of the same coat ; so that the lays embrace each coat, vest, and trousers from 32 breast up to 44 breast. The lays are not intended to show how the garments can be taken out of the least quantity of material, anyhow ; they show each piece of the garment with a com- pleteness not always to be found, even in the best class trades. This work, with the Illustrations and Tables which Author and Publisher have provided, cannot fail to be a great acquisition to all cutters, with few exceptions ; and the large demand for each of our published works when it appeared, notwithstanding, this last has cer- tainly not been the least appreciated by our many friends and patrons, J. WILLIAMSON. Tailor and Cutter Office, 93 & 94 Drury Lane, London, W.C. ECONOMY In Cutting Garments. ■ 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 F I were asked to sum up in one word the whole art of business management, I would say that it is made up of Economy. The word is derived from the Latin word CEconomia, which means household-management. But in its modern acceptation it may be taken to mean, the judicious and profitable management of property of any kind. We have numerous books in existence on various kinds of economy ; such as "Domestic Economy," " Social Economy," " Political Economy," &c, but I am not aware that any work has ever appeared before upon the subject of Economy in Cutting. It is not necessary to show that economy is useful, for the fact is so well established, that it has taken the form of a proverb, in the saying " Without economy none can be rich ; with economy few need be poor." Without economy no man can be just — no man can be honest either to himself or to those who employ him, therefore let no man say that he cannot economize. The world loses nothing by people being thrifty and economical with all they possess ; but it loses very much by the waste, extrava- gance, and losses of its stupid and incompetent inhabitants. It is therefore the duty of every man, to rouse his fellow men to observe, think, and act for themselves. It is the bounden duty of every man to do what he can to elevate his social position and to secure his independence. " To catch Dame Fortune's gentle smile, Assiduous wait upon her, And gather gear by every wile, That's justified by honour. Not for to hide it in a hedge, Or for a train attendant, But for the glorious privilege Of being independent." — Burns / r By economy in cutting I do not mean parsimony or niggardliness ; ECONOMY IN CUTTING. I mean frugality and prudence, as opposed to wastefulness and extra- vagance. In the management of any manufacturing business, such as tailoring, economy of material is of the greatest importance, and many bankruptcies might be traced back to that reckless waste of material which every workman who has worked in a number of shops must have observed, so extensively prevails in our trade. There are few bankrupt stocks which are not remarkable for the number of almost useless remnants and bad lengths on hand ; and although it might not be right to say that the failure was owing to the large quantity of these, still they speak loudly of the want of management. It does seem a strange thing that anyone who knows the value of the material he is using, should thoughtlessly cut it to waste ; but it is nevertheless a fact, that large numbers of men seem to care no more for their employers' material than if it cost nothing. What does it matter to a customer, whether 5 \ or 1\ yards of material are used in the making of his suit ? Although a very large proportion of the Lounge Jacket suits of the present day can be, and daily are, cut oat of lengths ranging from 5 J to 6 yards, with as good a fit up as anyone could wish ; it is no uncommon thing in the trade for 7J yards and sometimes even more, to be cut up for the same suits, and with no better result. The difference between the quantity used, and the actual quantity required when under proper management, is of course actual waste and does no good to anybody. It may be argued that the customer pays for all that is used, and so it is no loss to the tailor ; but I reply it is a loss, for the customer would pay just the same in either case ; therefore the tailor loses the difference in profit, or else the customer is being overcharged to that amount. So that by such unnecessary waste, the tailor must be dishonest either to himself or his customer. There is a practice prevails extensively in large trades, of cutting off separate lengths for each garment, of which a suit or other order is composed; say for example, 4 yards single width cloth i for the coat, 2f for the trousers, and f of a yard for the vest ; then each garment is cut by a different cutter. Besides being impossible to get the gar- ment separately out of less material than the quantities cut-off, and % ECONOMY IN CUTTING. have as good a fit-up as the other way, yet it is a most wasteful and extravagant plan ; a saving of nearly two yards on each suit can be effected by all the garments being laid out together, according to one or other of the diagrams on following pages. It may take a little more time at first, but by having the diagrams always in front of him, the cutter will soon be able to cut as quickly the one way as the other, and the time will be well spent in learning to do it. " The penny is well spent that saves a groat." And again " A penny hained (saved) is a penny gained." By way of illustration, let us suppose that one hundred suits a week are cut by three cutters, and that only one yard is saved on each suit — a very moderate estimate — and that the average price per yard is 4s., also a low figure, we have here a saving of 300 yards @ 4s., which is £20, probably more than the whole amount of their wages. Or, suppose a cutter is working single handed, and he cuts 20 suits per week, he will probably be more economical than where three are employed ; but if he can save half a yard on each suit, at the same price even this would come to £2 clear saving, enough to pay a trimmer to assist him, should he require assistance. But the great advantage of using the lays, illustrated by these diagrams, is this : that not only can the garments be cut out of less cloth, but they can be cut out in much less time, because the cutter can see at once where to place his patterns to the very best advantage, so that there is no waste either of time or material. The principle of economy ought to rule in every department of the business. It will not be enough to observe it in one and ignore it in another, for the slightest inclination to waste leads to loss more or less serious. " A small leak will sink a great ship." Not only material, but the time and labour of all concerned must at all times be turned to the best account by the man of business who wishes to succeed in these days of fierce competition. How to ensure economy in every section of the establishment under his control, should there- fore be the constant study of every cutter, whether he be master or ECONOMY IN CUTTING. foreman. But the virtue of economy, like all other good things, is liable to abuse. It is possible to run the matter so fine, that the facings and other fittings will be so meagre and the amount of piecing so large, that any respectable firm would be ashamed to turn out the garments. As will at once be seen, this is not the case with lays in this book. The garment in no case suffers. I should consider my lays of very small service indeed, and deserving of very little credit, if the saving of material was only effected by pinching, piecing, and sacrificing the garment itself. I very much doubt if the fit-up of gar- ments in the most respectable firms throughout the kingdom is better, if so good as these. My economy illustrations are therefore a real saving, showing, in most cases, a better fit-up than is frequently to be found in more wasteful methods. I should also add that the Patterns used in these lays are the Model Patterns supplied at The Tailor and Cutter Office ; I selected these, as, doubtless from the very large demand for The Tailor and Cutter Model Patterns, none are so much in common use by cutters. " Be thrifty, but not covetous ; therefore give Thy need, thine honour, and thy friend their due : Never was Scraper brave man. Get to live Then live and use it." — George Herbert. (gKiki ECONOMY IN CUTTING. THE TABLES SHOWING THE QUANTITY OF CLOTH KEQUIBED FOK THE VAKIOUS GABMENTS. AS ILLUSTRATED BY THE DIAGRAMS. These have been most carefully compiled, every garment in their different sizes having been laid out on the cloth. So that the lengths given may be fully depended upon as being neither more nor less than the quantity required We have also aimed at making all the quantities and all the lays so full, that no one need be ashamed of the fit up. It being the universal custom of the woollen trade to give 37 inches to the yard, we have of course reckoned to get that in all the lengths quoted ; and in every case where the lay measured any frac- tional part of an inch over a given number of yards and inches, we have called the fractional part one inch, so as to be on the safe side. To find the quantity required for any garment or combination of garments usually worn, first observe the width of the cloth it has to be cut from — whether 56 or 60 inches ; then find from the Index, the table required. Next find the column which has the breast measure corresponding with the size required, at the top ; then in the first division of the column find the length of the coat, and in the second length of sleeve, or sideseam of trousers if a suit, and the figures in the next two divisions opposite the last measure will give the length of cloth required in yards and inches. For example, suppose we have an order for a Frock Coat, 36 breast, 37 in length, 31 sleeve, to be cut from material 60 inches wide ; turn to table A, and in the columns under 36 breast, find first, the length of coat, 37 ; second, the length of sleeve, 31 ; opposite 31 in the length section, find the length of material, 1 yard 24 inches. The figures above the tables refer to the diagrams by which the garments of the sizes given can be cut to the best advantage. Of course when the cloth from which the garments are to be made is only single width — that is 28 to 30 inches — just double the quantity will be required to cut them ; and as a general rule for every inch in single width and two inches in double width, that the cloth is narrower than the widths for which the tables are compiled, the quantity given in the tables for garments two inches breast larger than the size required will be the right one. For example : if you want to know how much cloth 54 inches wide be required to make a 36 breast coat, find the quantity for a 38 breast in the 56 inch table. Index of Tables. Letter Width of Cloth A Frock Coat ... 60 H B Frock Coat and Vest ... 60 I C Frock Coat .... 56 K D Frock Coat and Vest .... 56 L E Morning Coat .... .... 60 M F Morning Coat .... .... 56 N G Morning Coat and Ves t 60 Letter Morning Coat and Vest 56 Dress Coat .... .... 60 Dress Coat and Vest .... 60 Lounge Jacket and Vest 56 Morning Coat Suit .... 56 Lounge Jacket Suit .... 56 Chesterfield .... .... 56 Width of Cloth Index of Diagrams. No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 Frock Coat Do. Breast Width of Measure. Cloth. , 36 60 36 56 Do. and Vest 36 60 Do. S.B. & Vest 38 60 Do. (Special) 44 60 Do. and Vest 38 60 Do. do. 44 56 Dress Coat or Coatee 36 60 Dress Coat and Vest 38 60 Do. do. 44 60 Morn. Coat and Vest 44 60 Morning Coat .... 38 60 Do. .... 44 60 Do. and Vest 32 60 Do. do. 38 56 16 Lounge Jacket & Vest 36 56 17 Do. do. 44 56 18 Morning Coat Suit 38 56 19 Morning Coat Suit 44 56 20 Lounge Jacket Suit 28 56 No. 21 Lounge Jacket Suit 22 Do. do. 23 Do. do. 24 Do. do. 25 Lounge Suit, with extra Trousers 26 Morning Coat Suit, with extra Trousers 27 Morning Coat Suit, with extra Trousers 28 Chesterfield 29 Lounge Suit 30 Lounge Suit corpulent 31 Lounge Suit do. 32 Morn. Coat Suit, do. 33 Morn. Coat & Vest do. 34 Chesterfield, do. 35 Trousers, seat 36 D.B. Vest Breast Width i f Measure. Cloth. 32 36 40 44 56 56 56 56 AO X)£.a.3 36 56 35 56 40 56 44 56 36 54 38 54 40 56 40 54 42 54 44 56 44 28 38 28 Economy in Cutting. TABLE A. Frock Coat, from 60 inch cloth. Diagram 1 Diagram 2 Dia. 1 ' , 32 Breast. 34 Breast. 36 Breast. 38 Breast. 40 Breast. 42 Breast. 44 Breast. Lngth Slev 27 yd. 1 in. 15 Lngth Slev 28 yd. in. Lngth Slev 29 yd. in. Lngth Slev 30 yd. in. Lngth Slev 31 yd. in. Lngth Sle\ 31 ' yd. in. Lngth Sle\ 31 i yd in. 1 16 1 18 1 25 1 27 1 29 2 28 1 15 29 1 16 30 1 19 31 1 26 32 1 28 32 1 30 32 2 CO 29 30 1 1 15 16 CM CO 30 31 1 1 17 18, CO CO 31 32 1 1 20 21 CO 32 33 1 1 27 28 LO CO 33 34 1 1 29 30 CO CO 33 34 1 1 31 32 CO CO 33 34 2 2 1 2 31 1 17 32 1 19 33 1 22 34 1 29 35 1 31 35 1 33 35 2 3 32 1 18 33 1 20 34 1 23 35 1 30 36 1 32 36 1 34 36 2 4 27 1 17 28 1 18 29 1 20 30 1 27 31 1 29 31 1 31 31 2 5 28 1 17 29 1 18 30 1 21 31 1 28 32 1 30 32 1 32 32 2 6 CO CO 29 30 1 1 17 18 CO 30 31 1 1 19 20 lO CO 31 32 1 1 22 23 CD CO 32 33 1 1 29 30 1^ CO 33 34 1 1 31 32 00 CO 33 34 1 1 33 34 00 CO 33 34 2 2 7 8 31 1 19 32 1 21 33 1 24 34 f 3] 35 1 33 35 1 35 35 2 9 32 1 20 33 1 22 34 1 25 35 1 32 36 1 34 36 1 36 36 2 10 27 1 19 28 1 20 29 1 22 30 1 29 31 1 31 31 1 33 J 31 2 5 28 1 19 29 1 20 30 1 23 31 1 30 32 1 32 32 1 34 32 2 6 CO 29 30 1 1 19 20 CO CO 30 31 1 1 21 22 1^ CO 31 32 1 1 24 25 00 CO 32 33 1 1 31 32 CO 33 34 1 1 33 34 o 33 34 1 1 35 36 o 33 34 2 2 7 8 31 1 21 32 1 23 33 1 26 34 1 33 35 1 35 35 2 35 2 9 32 1 22 33 1 24 34 1 27 35 1 34 36 1 36 36 2 1 36 2 10 27 1 21 28 1 22 29 1 24 30 1 31 31 1 33 31 1 35 31 2 6 28 I 21 29 1 22 30 1 25 31 1 32 32 1 34 32 1 36 32 2 6 CO 29 30 1 1 21 22 00 CO 30 31 1 1 23 24 CO 31 32 1 1 26 27 o 32 33 1 1 33 34 5 33 34 1 1 35 36 CM 33 34 2 2 1 CM 33 34 2 2 7 8 31 1 23 32 1 25 33 1 28 34 1 35 35 2 35 2 2 35 2 9 32 1 24! 33 1 26 34 1 29 35 1 36 36 2 1 36 2 3 36 2 10 27 1 23 28 1 24 29 1 26 30 1 38 31 1 35 31 2 31 2 8 28 1 23 29 1 24 30 1 27 31 1 34 32 1 36 32 2 1 32 2 8 ca 29 1 23 o 30 1 25 31 1 28' CM 32 1 35 CO 33 2 31 1 25 32 1 27 33 1 30 34 2 35 2 2 35 2 4 35 2 9 32 1 26 33 1 28 34 1 31 35 2 1 36| 2 3! 36 2 5 ., 36 i 2 : L0 Explanation of the Tables will be. found on page 9. Economy in Cutting. TABLE B. Frock Coat and Vest, from 60 inch cloth. Diagram 3 Diagram 6 32 Breast. 34 Breast. 36 Breast. 38 Breast. 40 Breast. 42 Breast. 44 Breast. Lngth Slev 27 yd- in. Lngth Slev 28 yd. in. Lngth Slev 29 yd. in. Lngth Slev 30 yd. in. Lngth Slev 31 yd. in. Lngth Slev 31 yd. in. Lngth Slev yd. in. 1 21 1 23 1 25 1 35 2 6 2 9 31 2 9 28 1 22 29 1 24 30 1 26 31 1 35 32 2 6 32 2 9 32 2 9 r m 29 1 23 CM 30 1 25 CO 31 1 27 33 2 10 o 33 2 13 o 33 2 13 CO 30 1 28 CO 31 1 30 CO 32 1 32 CO 33 2 6 CO 34 2 12 ^ 34 2 13 ^ 34 2 13 31 1 29 32 1 31 33 1 33 34 2 8 35 2 12 35 2 13 35 2 13 32 1 30 33 1 32 34 1 34 35 2 10 36 2 12 36 2 15 36 2 15 27 1 27 28 1 29 29 1 31 30 2 10 31 2 12 31 2 15 31 2 15 28 I 28 29 1 30 30 1 32 31 2 10 32 2 12 32 2 15 32 2 15 1^ 29 1 29 CO 30 1 31 a> 31 1 33 o 32 2 10 r- 33 2 12 CM 33 2 15 CM 33 2 15 CO 30 1 30 CO 31 1 32 CO 32 1 34 ^r 33 2 10 ^f 34 2 14 '^ , 34 2 15 "^ 34 2 15 31 1 31 32 1 33 33 1 35 34 2 10 35 2 14 35 2 15 35 2 15 32 1 32 33 1 34 34 1 36 35 2 12 36 2 14 36 2 17 36 2 17 27 1 29 28 1 31 29 1 33 30 2 14 31 2 16 31 2 19 31 2 19 28 1 30 29 1 32 30 1 34 31 2 14 32 2 16 32 2 19 32 2 19 05 29 1 31 o 30 1 33 T— 31 1 35 CM 32 2 14 CO 33 2 16 ^" 33 2 19 ^t 33 2 19 CO 30 1 32 ^ 31 1 34 ^" 32 1 36 ^r 33 2 14 ^" 34 2 16 ^t 34 2 19 "*t 34 2 19 31 1 33 32 1 35 33 2 34 2 14 35 2 16 35 2 19 35 2 19 32 1 34 33 1 36 34 2 1 35| 2 14 36 2 16 36 2 19 36 2 : 19 Explanation of the Tables will be found on page 9. Economy in Cutting. TABLE C. Frock Coat, from 56 inch cloth. Dia. 1. Diagram 2. Diagram 7. east. 32 Breast. 34 Breast. 36 Breast. 38 Breast. 40 Breast. 42 Breast. 44 Br Lngth Slev 27 yd. in. Lngth Slev 28 yd. in. Lngth Slev 29 yd. in. Lngth Slev 30 yd. in. Lngth Slev 31 yd. in. Lngth Slev 31 yd. in. Lngth Slev 31 yd. in. 1 16 1 22 1 24 2 2 5 2 6 2 7 28 1 16 29 1 23 30 1 25 31 2 1 32 2 5 32 2 7 32 2 8 29 1 16 CM 30 1 24 CO 31 1 26 ^ 32 2 2 lO 33 2 5 CD 33 2 8 CO 33 2 9 CO 30 1 17 CO 31 1 25 CO 32 1 27 CO 33 2 3 CO 34 2 6 CO 34 2 9 CO 34 2 10 31 1 18 32 1 26 33 1 28 34 2 4 35 2 7 35 2 10 35 2 11 32 1 19 33 1 27 34 1 29 35 2 5 36 2 8 36 2 11 136 2 12 27 1 18 28 1 24 29 1 26 30 2 2 31 2 7 31 2 8 31 2 9 28 1 18 29 1 25 30 1 27 31 2 3 32 2 7 32 2 9 32 2 10 CO 29 1 18 ^ 30 1 26 lO 31 1 28 CD 32 2 4 r^- 33 2 7 CO 33 2 10 CO 33 2 1] CO 30 1 19 CO 31 1 27 CO 32 1 29 CO 33 2 5 CO 34 2 8 CO 34 2 11 CO 34 2 12 31 1 20 32 1 28 33 1 30 34 2 6 35 2 9 35 2 12 35 2 13 32 1 21 33 1 29 34 1 31 35 2 7 36 2 10 36 2 13 36 2 14 27 1 20 28 1 26 29 1 28 30 2 4 31 2 9 31 2 10 31 2 11 28 1 20 29 1 27 30 1 29 31 2 5 32 2 9 32 2 11 32 2 12 lO 29 1 20 CO 30 1 28 1^ 31 1 30 CO 32 2 6 a> 33 2 9 o 33 2 12 o 33 2 13 CO 30 1 21 CO 31 1 29 CO 32 1 31 CO 33 2 7 CO 34 2 10 ^- 34 2 13 31 1 32 o 32 2 8 33 2 11 CM 33 2 14 CM 33 2 15 CO 30 1 23 CO 31 1 31 CO 32 1 33 ^ 33 2 9 ^ 34 2 12 ^* 34 2 15 ^" 34 2 16 31 1 24 32 1 32 33 1 34 34 2 10 35 2 13 35 2 16 35 2 17 32 1 25 33 1 83 34 1 35 35 2 11 36 2 14 36 2 17 36 2 18 27 1 24 28 1 30 29 1 32 30 2 10 31 2 15 31 2 16 31 2 17 28 1 24 29 1 31 30 1 33 31 2 11 32 2 15 32 2 17 32 2 18 a> 29 1 24 o 30 1 32 ^ 31 1 34 Csl 32 2 12 CO 33 2 15 «t 33 2 18 "■O co •. ,G jri -t-j +j -<-> ■rt • >-« c £ G cd ,H 3 t3 0) | a ^-J ~ o Ti- ro cd bX cd T3 o s ■4-i T3 Si o G 1) O u co •jy ° G J3 o _g o O OJ is o oo t/3 n G 'S3 o -*-• a , J-J o S-i +-> G c •1—4 .G H cd c w G •OJO •rH PS Q S a o o s -to o as i-*8 • <>> ^ s o to ^3 §e e . ~ ^> S> ' r-O «^> p o o -*o S c/a ?^ «o o '-3 «H-C *- « 3 ,_, ■a 3 ~ J3 u +-• .-S o £ w n co ^J > >» -2 "^ a o -4-> O ,Q G h is side 3 o o o o 2 •-^ 43 O -+J ■<-» rt o ~ 13 ■+-> 0) CJ CO !> M K o co J3 f J-H O S-l CD hjO CO ^ o M - ,J (0 (U a, xi J3 ■3 ** * § .2 3 13 CD , CO •»H s •*h CO J3 "ti 13 +-> •~ o W) . e, CO c s § a> o o 3 0. '* -M (U CO -Ti oJ X> QJ 3 »-. O ,Q *° N rf -^* tn o 0) -M e: p. so <^ g SO so o I ■50 <*> -o «o IS >:-lr:?s.:;!i:lr!=itJXu~.MJlliimmar** co cd .G -t-> co > J3 1) +j CL, cd cd o — ' o T3 >> C 'G cd o T3 c o ,G (L) *-. CJ »G GO (L> Ui o ko ■+- c c a cd aj co ro — (/J ctf !V ,G aj -M .G •—J a, CD !-l cd o -a 5 c jo o ll CO G co O G O + J *G CJ X> C cd cu +j ca 00 CU > •G CU 'to u Cd rQ cu CJ CO cd •— CJ ,G CJ .G o cd o rG CD c o o g -^ cj co .* ™ W) <1> x; 1h o cd cd u 0) C (L) • « cd ■w co cu o .cd cd O CJ G J2 s O CJ S-H cd o O o W> cj J3 Xi G cd CJ T3 G cd T3 G cd CO CJ X3 G O o .S C .-G - " H *j n-l CO £" O X! f-H G cd CU CJ > O s G cd j3 co G CJ CJ C o cd -a CO CJ O CUQ > cj cd r— i i) »G -G 1) P, ^2 tG cd cj o co cd o ^3 G % O g, •+-1 CJ G * „ o aj rG 2 ° 6 % o G cj .ti Economy in Cutting. DIAGRAM 6. Frock Coat and Vest, up to 38 breast, 40 long. — Quantity 2 yards 6 inches, in 60 inch cloth. Diagram 6 is, perhaps, the most generally useful plan in this work. It requires very little explanation. If objection is taken to the rolls of the Vest on the cross — although I do not see this to be an objection — these can generally be got at the back of the skirts, especially if the collars are taken out where the rolls are, and the sleeves moved upwards ; or one lapel may come at the back of the skirt, and the rolls where the other lapel is, in front of the Vest itself. DIAGRAM 7. Frock Coat and Vest, 44 breast, 43 long, — Quantity 2 yards 24 inches of 56 inch cloth. Diagram y represents a Frock Coat and Vest of large size, taken out of 56 inch cloth, without wheel pieces to the skirt. This plan, with a little modi- fication, is also useful for Box Coats, and Gents' Newmarket and Frock Overcoats. In the larger sizes it will be found more convenient to take only one lapel between skirt and back skirt, and the collar at top of back and the facing where the Vest is, while the other lapel comes where the facing is in the diagram ; or any other similar arrangement which the size of the coat and width of the cloth will admit of ; the main thing is to get the start with the skirts and back, the other parts follow according to circumstances. , <% g 53 ^3 ^> § *-0 C3 %- «. • ^> •ox) fl to S3 •i— 1 c*3 5* © 53 fl x* • i-H s «3 o tf 1 ks CO s (2 o fl 53 o O o H £ eo ss OS so 1 5^ eo 0) C O co nd c rt J2 O " M a> a crs CU 42 o o o O f-t cu M •B Jg T3 cu •Qfi •pH o CO s 1 o r^ S o PI o "8» -KS O .$ 00 CO S3 o 1 Q5 so ^3 ^3 i"»^ •c-a C/J g *o co CO «J3 *«? g> O i»-s O CO «o o o a- «o •QJD •1-4 CO S3 M *4 o •Si © to 1 & ^3 r-o CO ©^ § © l~Oj O os S© rO © l~-o <^> « HO ©■ © © to ©■ © OS os 5^ OB to OS «5 **. I 5 r-O OB OS •cO ©■ ^streg c • I— 1 CD u T3 o u, i- CO p CD • »-H CT 1 CD CU bo o O c C CD ^3 J-H 43 O -»-> o ■M c CD § T3 U CD fi ^3 CD rt rt • CO t-i 5S 3 bO bo C C ■ 1— 1 . i-H ci Oh CD u U U ei cd S-< <-(-« <-ii .m .2 >— 1 C o • 0) •^^ T3 co O Oh u g c o 03 3 CD ^ 4-» ^ c -»-> rt rfi CO rt • l-M O he clot ere it i co u 43 •4-1 O fcuO C CD C3 -^ rfi o <-> O i-H c o ^ \ ^ 1 !-H C bo S CD CD o 43 CO CD ,13 s o «i3 *T3 CD i I s O CD 3 cr 1 CD -4-» c «-• O 44 m m -(-> ■!-H 44 CO co CD CD lowing lapels i T3~ O 0) ^ rfi • 1— ( r3 co 15 CU c fO ^ H 13 s c _ CO , ■g rt bo c CD > 13 w •f-H CD co H o O) o CO >-*-< CO fi a +j > tuO ca • i— i c o 43 > nd C3 +j •1-4 Q OS d s a o o CO CO •S 2S o H co ' ^3 *3 -^ co* CO CO CO 1 I 5 CO T3 co u > -t a> cr GO Q> U u co J3 • i-h ■m tuo bJO C H ■l-H • ^* o a u l-l +-> o J3 M GO GO T3 o (3 i-! 3 <+■■ CO Ih c CCj o ^3 • 1— 1 O aJ u C rt T3 »-^ e ctf O CD o CO a> •4-> O tuO is C +-> co • ^H 3 t> >, N ja » «— « CO T3 oo en CD h3 U o -*-> J3 o CO -4-* 1) -M ^3 3 o >» a T3 S CVt >> bfl -4-> • »-4 C -4-* 0) cj Xi 3 GO CT 1 CD •*-> CD T3 rs 43 G «- CD U G 3 «H1 G •+J • »M TJ (0 c • 11 o CO rt >> *g g H)-> «H-I o CO o U 43 • VH 43 CO 0) N (L) 'G CO CD Jl CD • »— < r, O CO CD 43 ■+•> H-» »-i •4-« <+-4 G cd *+1 HH O >H -M CD c2 In crt T3 O O B Oh o CD CD u 4J O ^^ rt <-H O ■*-» • »-h CD 09 £ 3 43 1) CO +■> 43 •*■» • ?-< t-C o o g o T> «-*- ■ u G t3 CD G • I-l CD 43 • Cl> •V G ■ i— ( o CD +■» u 43 o -4-> G G a 1 o 43 u G O CD 43 G G CD Wi CD S-i at •f-H rt 43 Tl CO vo o ■<-> Oh in s >> CD G o G o CD O o O G ■♦-> CO «S S-. 43 CD CD Uh o CD u o H-> CD G o J3 CD CD n •*-> 43 X! CO -•-> H-» -*-» T) CO 3 C O G • <— ( -*-» rrt •»— 1 4* X! Oh G to G O G -*-> "»-H {J £ • ^-« 43 rt o vo G o o CD 43 •Q1D fl •iH O CO o a° o fl o 1 5»^ co -Si co CD SO * ri °* co © 8 § © co IS ^* ■ ©>°* •i © CO CO CO CO CO 1 » w _ 2 Q. O (O JM O ** CO > Rj *2 . rt o .G s +? G ~ O a> G / i 1 ,1 •-« D O g O 1 1 CO a! j) O "« to 0) -o o - •"—; *»h G I_, CO CO i—4 •—" / r^* ove ide e in wil lay _ S .g g« g n3 S +3 ci "-* oth, an ind undi where elt or fl aist or on. » Z s * * m .g .5 "9 "^ o t? G ri bjO «J « +3 •«-« «+-i Q O CO ._ <+-. -G Oh d G VO o .id OJ 0) ast in 5 f gorge i ty by ta Breast for incr ures wh \ i % n CD -— C »— ! ■*■» > o G 75 u u a j|| .a "5 a £f^ used for all s either out of be got out of e scye and go : in front of uld be be got y can om th waste M 5 JS * « c ^ £ Z3 rt BJ « - O Oh tuO ** "i! CO to 8 co CO co CO 1 co -a a> Cu CU W> r» o 1) c etj -a 5*3 a> cu 43 4-1 CU U ■♦-» 09 0) u CU >» > 5-1 as 0) 43 CU B ■4-» as w; -t-> i—* c cu > o 43 CO +■» a> (L> - 1— t CO C 44 5-i as O o Ci at S OS CO CO -C 5-. n • ** aS CO cu co aJ o O a CU T3 • o CD s • ** CO 1=1 ba G 1) Q •«-4 o 1/3 cu rs J5 a 43 o o at Q> co u N CO Cu ^ T3 as aJ c a! fc. w +■» crt • In o O -4-> aS O a> -»-i u O Vm 43 ■*-» J-i at o •»-< s 3 Cu CO CU U >* 5-i o J5 <*- n CU O (U 43 4-1 -*-« ■«-» W) 43 • — a! CO Cu C! 5-1 CO 3 a> • ?-< 43 +■» u at 43 Cu *QJD O CO d s •iH « o a o 1 © co C£> s> CO CO 2* ^ r^s CO CV^ § - © QO ^ 05 ^ ^" «* «o cc «» so co « at) © ©^ ,© eo §S CO co co 1 .CO e c o V W> a a 43 3 o-o BO ** — c 3 S .2 g c CD ™ w .S CO CO to ** u 4= *~ 0) W> c 43 u o 2 c 8 > ^ - s > iS «» c3 ■2 S f rt .-h co 42 +- -3 43 ■« W> o 43 o o G o ■*-> co rt CD J-i 42 O ri ;-. .o p .G .G 4* & s «- >* CO 42 — i 'G ^ G M c ° bjO u G a c » I — I o -G 5 CD >» ^H ST 1 w co 44 O c S o a CD 43 43 o G s co o ■a £ o. CO H 4^ -QJO Pi CO -CDD o o o o to © 52 l-O C*3 <3* co so $2 ?-. "«* CO r^ to <» ©^ © ■8 S: co CO • ■*-> w ^ a cu ""a rQ 3 co O i-« > T3 S3 ^ 3 O 2 S • -M o o £ 5 cu &* ^ o 3 .Si, s ,a T3 o T3 (U U >. co o "" >> £ "S rf .a «+H D +-> o rQ <-M tn O cu -*-> • •> t-l -« rt -° T3 -»-> and coul ^ OJ cu J3 s> o o CU CU CU •—' J3 -* ft co ^ ^ Ih cu cu u J3 C cu ■*-• s-i ^3 ~ O -M ■m a cu CO hO '2 rt o 13 cu -° -*-» fl « CO cu *^ t/3 > 0) G O XI u • rl ^_» -*-> d fc. t-t-o cu o o ft u, u O CU ft2 o CO 3 ft £3 o 3 *+; to T? O CU cu CU rj co "ij > o s o o -4-> a "" G u O O „, x- > K CO • co *7> co =0 r-C, 00 co co co CO CO co O eo co to CO ^» CO 1 eo 53 5s> S CO 45 CO O o «s 6 -S o o CO W) c rt 43 o s-. u 3 CO o 43 co co u V CO » • 1— 1 c™^ ^^ CO CtJ CO U ■a 5 g w CO p d co t; o "to •*H (X «4-l C/J n • »-H +J 43 •+■> G 0) 43 • l-H 6 a CO co M CO n 1- hn • »-H • ; cu > 44 *rt S co s 43 >. > CO 1— 1 43 a> CO (U 43 G C H 3 O CO T3 CL> 43 oi S-c -4-» So ^— * S-i (3 (L> 43 J-c a> CO 3 43 rt <-M -*-> co —* '-(- >, •t-l O 4=> -t-» CO CO a> ■M !-i 42 rf «y >> 43 TJ oi CO a C G T3 O 43 u •f-H CO G 3 CO ■ *-< s CT 1 OJ 0- >, S-i ■4-» l-l 43 rt cu -i-> > bJO co g c •»-H i> +-» CO 42 43 -t-> 3 ^ 'co • -> Economy in Cutting. DIAGRAM 18. Morning fioat Suit, up to 38 breast, 34 long, 44 sideseam. — Quantity 3 yards, in 56 inch cloth. Diagram i8 shows a Morning Coat Suit, 38 breast, laid out on 56 inch cloth. In the smaller sizes, or where the various lengths do not harmonize as they do here, a saving may be effected by putting seat pieces or top welts or bands on the trousers ; and when no roll is required, a better fit-up can be got by making the top and undersides of the trousers change places. All the previous diagrams are arranged for faced cloth, but the great bulk of suitings now worn are unfaced goods ; therefore this and all the Suit plans are for unfaced goods, but with a little shifting about, and a little more cloth, the ideas contained in the lays can be made use of for faced goods as well. DIAGRAM 19. Morning Coat Suit — 44 breast, 37 long, 46 sideseam. — Quantity 3 yards 22 inches in 56 inch cloth. "-■"*saaa^^ ■!»i..m,ra«Ml33SpgsgM Diagram 19 represents a 44 breast Morning Coat Suit, on 56 inch cloth. It will be observed that both these plans allow of consi- derable latitude in the size of the waist, which is very desirable, especially in the larger sizes. If the forepart should be pinched, a little may be taken off underarm and added to the sidebody, which will only reduce the facing, and the skirt can be reduced to any extent. I have in each case provided for a whole inside collar, but not for flaps ; if these are required, they can either be made from the pieces set aside for the inside collar, and the latter pieced up, or extra cloth must be allowed for them. -QJO Csl fl a •h a o o •<0 co eo 1 so o so CO •«OJ <3 <3 CO •pi co r -o sj» CO *** „ to SO c to so cc so ss © co so s CO ^^ 53 CO • co u u d OJ Cu CO cu 3 ;-. o o U 'H C-i a) J3 c o e o ±» 3 CO Ph id c J> c3 -Q XI „ o C, -t-> o 4-> W s- 5 o X 2 Crf w> £ C co +-> cJ 3 „ Ph f3 . t>. «S TJ ►■*> .— • cu -Q a, V-i > £ * CO a3 CQ • I-H - 0) *— ^ r-ya . «-» . CO - >> S-( CCJ rt cu s § <-t-H • 1—4 co cu > CO o, ^4 T3 3 G 3 u X! CO -M N ^ c c cu aS v cu X cu CO CO cu N CU co rn o c t*H (U 0) cu £ X -t-> rrt cu -u X5 • »— < S -M CO a CO -t-« • rH o C ho aS aj Oh X CO T3 XI 3 H o o PS PS Q PS •pH a o PS o -Sg -to o I — i s^ o CO c*i .§ CO o <3 to CO • ^ ou co •<■* ca ^3 co S *o co co «j CO ^ OS o 5*s •<>> «J -H Q Mi co CO «Q IS CO 1«i «o co 6 co ■si 8 co «o co *-. «o CO co G > hn ■+J -<-> CO oS o •i-H • I-H CTi s TJ cu id G G C-L, O -t-> TJ c CU B > G XI as CO TJ cu co (Tl JJ a> ni x> -M M n G •f"H • •— * CO CL> G a> a a -4-> Ih O ■4-4 c 'So s-. cu O J3 a) CU > cu CO (O CO "3 S l-H J3 -4-> o aS u .. G • -«-> >G CO >> CO O CO cu cu cu H CU s G G •i-H • i-H CO O • I-H CO o CO 1) 3 O o G CO O Cu, ' I-H •— CU -t-> -t-> cu -4-> CU G •M G 4^ TJ CO CU cu hi o CU CO G >. ^J u TJ CO CO CO o • ^H H-* • ^H cu TJ •I-H CO CL .G (LI CO •— a) B G • »* P CJ O Tl o cu >> TJ o CO o co G G cu o .G -4-1 «S -4-> CO G I-H G ri Q) i-i aS ■4-4 CO G a; aS a, cu -4-4 CO J3 o TJ >-i-i O u O _G f>» fcuO -4-4 • i-H s O > ^G ■4-4 5b aS 8 G tuO cu G a) * .— i H-» G bJO ^^ 0) cu > G -4-4 T3 CO XI o <+H XI tup CO o G O •*-H 0) CO O -4-» • i— < <-H1 > T3 -4~> u -G CO 0) o • 1-H CO TJ • I-H CO O aS J3 -4-4 Oh o 4-> CO XI ,0 ^2 G aS G X) (41 O o •4-4 G O ■+-4 TJ G CO ,G +-> «H-H o -4-> ci G •S cu cu ■4-1 G cu aJ -4-> L> (T| CO ■— -< J^ o V CU > XI £ x J-i TJ ^ X> o CO •^ *c3 •— cu G CO CO CO XI •4-* •i-H CO CD 'co G O XI G o aS ♦- 13 ° >» J3 rf B ^ <-M S o >> G 'J ^J CU co TJ t— H ■4-4 ID 0) Tl o CO > 0) aS •l-H CO u G O o s ^3 cu W) TJ C4S CO -4-4 aS >H-« o o al J2 cu CO u G X) > G -♦J Xi o £ CO J3 X) Jd -4-> o x> s CO G aS o aS CO Si CO W) •> -M cu B c ai t_i -C CO s G O CO o CO G •I-H T3 CO aS O lO .8 (0 o 4-1 G CO .G bjO CO a G aS cu >> J3 "Cu ■ (-H ■M ■* CO ■4-4 P s cu o O G 0) buO m u. o +J r. • 1-H .G O o cu aS J! CO Economy in Cutting. DIAGRAM 22. Lounge Jacket Suit, up to 36 breast, 28 long, 43 sideseam.— Quantity 2 yards 22 inches, in 56 inch cloth. &. $'• 9 **x ' £$^\ s^S EE & ssimmBmmBmm^^ ^ ^^n 1 ** .^^SEasaSga^^ Diagram 22 shows a 36 breast, 38 seat, Lounge suit, on 56 inch cloth, and is only one of many ways .it may be taken out of about the same quantity of cloth, according to the proportions of the garments. The quantity of cloth generally required is about twice the full length of the trousers. I say about, because the length of the back, sleeves, and vest have each some effect on the quantity as well as the length of the trousers. DIAGRAM 23. Lounge Jacket Suit, up to 40 breast, 31 long, 45 sideseam. — Quantity 2 yards 34 inches in 56 inch cloth. ^a a^mk^ii^ ^^m^^iMm^m^^m^m^m: Diagram 23 represents a 40 breast, 42 seat, Loungef Jacket suit, on 56 inch cloth, and is one of the most useful and economical plans in the whole book. It comes in so useful for the average larger sizes, where one is likely to be pinched for cloth. If a client is over 40 breast, and tall in proportion, no cutter is ever expected to take his suit out of an average length ; but sizes from 36 to 40 breast are considered only average sizes, and that is what this plan is eminently suited for. Economy in Cuttini DIAGRAM 24. Lounge Jacket Suit — 44 breast, 32 long, 45 sideseam. — Quantity 3 yards 9 inches, in 56 inch cloth. Diagram 24. — This plan is suitable for sizes from 40 to 44 or even larger, if a little extension of length is given. DIAGRAM 25. Lounge Jacket Suit, with extra Trousers. — 36 breast, 28 long, 43 sideseam. — Quantity 3 yards 22 inches, in 56 inch cloth. Economy in Cutting. DIAGRAM 26. Morning Coat Suit, with extra Trousers. — 36 breast, 33 long, 43 sideteam. — Quantity 3 yards 30 inches, in 56 inch cloth. DIAGRAM 27. Morning Coat Suit, with extra Trousers. — 40 breast, 36 long, 45 sideseam. — Quantity 4 yards 14 inches in 56 inch cloth. DIAGRAM 29. This lay represents a Lounge Jacket suit, 36 breast, 28 long, 43 sideseam, and 38 seat, taken out of 2 yards 25 inches of cloth 54 inches wide. DIAGRAM 30. Represents a Lounge Jacket suit, 38 breast, ao waist, 29 long, 44 sideseam, and 39 seat, on 2 yards 33 inches of 54 inch cloth, and shows the additions that require to be made for the corpulent figure, as compared with the proportionate one. DIAGRAM 31. Here ;.we have the most that can be made out of a 3-yard length of ordinary 56 inch Tweed : namely, a Lounge Jacket suit for a corpulent figure measuring 40 breast, 30 long ; sideseam of trousers 44 and seat 40, any reasonable size of waist and a good fit-up. 40 B Corpalmt 43 Side, 3%Yds, 54 inch, cloth 42 B, 42 W, 54 inch Cloth Z 1 4 Ms. 44 B any degree of corpulence 40 long/; 2i%ls- DIAGRAM 32. Morning Coat suit for a 40 breast, cor- pulent figure, from narrower width cloth. If the cloth is wider, a larger size suit may be obtained by the same plan. DIAGRAM 33. Morning Coat and Vest for corpulent figure from narrow width material. DIAGRAM 35. Large Chesterfield in unfaced goods ; if the cloth is faced, place the bottom of back where top of underside sleeve is, and take the underside sleeve where the back is, the collars and flaps will come out where the bottom of back is now. "k^S«j^ : THE TAI&OWL MMW €W*F*Fmm EMBRACING DETAILS OF PiUU THE ARTICLE^ ^nuulteti ai fljc "bailor aitb Cuff ^ " of$t% INCLUDING I Model and Special Cut Patterns SHEARS, SQUARES AND OTHER ACCESSORIES, ALSO THE tfospqlus i t||t' l| t||t i 'lit' 1 W W W W '+****" , i||i | "t||t' , ' , tl|i'' 'till 1 ' 'f ''U I' 1 ' '**(•*" ''H 1 ' W ''l 1 ' ' Our Large Plates of Fashion. — These, by well nigh general consent, are pronounced the most artistic and faithful representations of costume ever published. They are : our Bi- annual Plate of Gents Fashions, and our New Plate of British Liveries, both of which are magnificent pictures, and are fully described on another page of this Chart. Our Cutting Academy. — Some details of our Academy will be found upon other pages, but intending students who have no knowledge of the art should not fail to send for onr " Instructor and Guide," some particulars of which will be found on another page ; or " Three Months at the Tailor and Cutter Academy," by an Ex-Student, details of which will also be found on another page. A considerable development has recently taken place in connection with our Lady Students' Department, and, durina recent months, our resources in this direction have been severely taxed. This is, in some measure, owing to the demand which has sprung up for Lady teachers of cutting in technical schools and institutions ; and, in order to meet it efficiently, we have fitted up a special room for Lady Students and we are now equally well equipped in this as in our other departments. A prospectus giving full details of our procedure with Lady Students will be forwarded on application. Our Colonial and Foreign Subscribers. — Who are now to be found in every important town in the world will be interested to learn that by the introduction and extension of the Parcel Post we are enabled to supply most of the articles described in this catalogue at a cost very little, if anything, in excess of that charged to our patrons in this country ; while the reduction in the price charged for postage of books now enables us to send any of our publica- tions to any place in the Postal Union at a uniform rate of id. per lb. The price of subscription to the Tailor and Cutter and Ladies Tailor is the same as in England, viz., 14s. and t0«. per annum respectively. Foreign Editions of the ''Tailor and Cutter."— Specially prepared foreign editions of the above journal are now published in Australia. — New Zealand.— America.— Germany. — France. — Italy. The three last being translated into the language of the countries named, are being received with the greatest favour, not only in the various portions of the Continents where one or other of these languages is a lingua franca, but also amongst the numerous body of German, French, Belgian, Italian, and other foreign tailors residing in England. Full particulars as toagentp, prices, &c, will be found on another page. The Tailor and Cutter and other Shears.— The importance of a Cutter having shears that he can use with ease and comfort, and that will divide a line on the material with cleanness and certainty, induced us many years ago to give our special attention to these, and we have them made to our own pattern and idea. We can also supply special makes of Shears and Trimmers, such as Heinsch's, Seymour's, &c, full particulars of which appear in our advertisement pages. Various Appliances. — We also supply Improved Squares, Tapes, Crayons, Crayon Holders, Scissors, Button Covering Machine, Trouser Stretchers, Sleeve Boards, Stoves, and similar trade appliances. The great superiority of the Tailor and Gutter Sleeve Boards has ltd to such an extensive demand of late, that we have found it desirable to make them a special branch of our business. Our Sleeve Boards are therefore now made on our own premises from specially selected timber of the most suit- able kind. Private Charts. — Every season we have a considerable demand! for Private Charts specially prepared for Individual Firm?. These are invariably found to facilitate and extend business, showing, as they do, that spirit of enterprise which commands the confidence of customers, both new and old. None are in a better position or have larger resources, for getting up such charts. Not only are we at the fountain head of i all the new and popular styles, but we have facilities for producing thene and other kinds of artistic printing, which no other firm has. All work of this kind can be relied upon, and the prices will bear favourable comparison with those of any trade printer. Advertising Blocks— Illustrating New and Popular Styles in Ladies', Gents' and Juvenile Garments, are frequently asked for, aDd can, in future, be supplied at a price, which, considering the artistic nature of the" engravings, is almost nominal. These blocks are fac similes of the figures shown in the coloured Chart, which will be found herewith, and will be very serviceable for illustrated Circulars, Bill-Heads, News- paper Advertisements, &c. Full particulars on another page. Hints On Ordering. — Business letters should always be addressed The John Williamson Co., Ltd., 93 & 94, Drury Lane, London, W.C. Printed bill-head or letter-head with full postal address should be used wherever possible; except for Special Patterns when the special order form we supply will be found most convenient. In ordering Model Patterns state number and size, and mention whether for Lady or Gentleman. In referring to a previous communication the date of same in every case, must be given. Any complaint of inaccuracy or delay, in the execution of an order, will receive careful attention ; but it should not be forgotten that the fault may be with the person ordering. Imperfect addresses and incorrect instructions are sometimes given even by the most careful. In ordering Special Patterns, full measures and descrip- tion of any abnormality are imperative. A sketch or illustra- tion of style required should also be sent. All written de- scriptions should be as brief, compatible with clearness, as possible. In ordering Model Patterns please note that all coat measures are taken over the vest ; also that seam allowances are provided for in all patterns, both Special and Model. All orders must be accompanied by a remittance. This is essential, and no one should feel offended at onr refusing to execute an order unless the cash is sent with it. When a Special Pattern is ordered and the cash sent is in- sufficient, our general rule is to send a model of the nearest size and style. For remittances the safest and cheapest way is the registered letter, by which any sum can be sent for twopence, but we must ask our customers not to sew up their money in paper or otherwise, as it is equally safe with- out this precaution, and the undoing of the coin wastes a good deal of our time, while the doing of it up must waste that of the sender. Money orders over 20/- are cheaper and safer than postal orders we prefer them since the Post Office repudiate their liability upon any that may be lost or stolen. When you send not over five stamps with postal orders affix them to the face, as recommended by the Po^t Office ; if sent separate, state the quantity as they might otherwise get overlooked. N.B. — Please always make cheques payable to The John Williamson Co., Ltd., and cross " Postal Orders " " L. J. S. " as so many are now stolen. The John Williamson Company Limited, 93 & 94 Drury Lane, London, W C. SELECTIONS FROM AN UNPARALLELED NUMBER OF UNSOLICITED TESTIMONIALS. Kecently received, and the originals of which may be inspected at the Tailor and Cutter Office. PUBLICATIONS. I have tried your " Cutter's Practical Guide " and find it very useful. I am bound to say it has given me the greatest satisfaction. F. A., Trinidad. Allow me to bear testimony to a book I had from you some time since — " The Cutter's Practical Guide," Part 2. It must be the dullest brain that could not work it satisfactorily. I have practised systems for the last twelve years, and never saw one better or in any way so up to the mark. W. C. I have been cutting steadily since 1862 in many parts of the world, and owe my success principally to your excellent works. G. S., San Francisco. I find the treatise on "Trouser Cutting '' by Mr. Leighton, the work of a thoroughly practical man, who has evidently expe- rienced the difficulties of Trouser Cutting, and has also found the way of most suc- cessfully surmounting them. J. F. I am very pleased with the books as I am sure they will greatly help me in understanding the principles of cutting. J. M. W. I have studied Dr. Humphreys' Vest and Trousers Systems very successfully. J. S. I am cutting coats with Dr. Hum- phreys' System very successfully. E.J.W. The Trouser System and the small book you sent me a few weeks ago are very good. J. C. B. I duly received your work on " Model Patterns," and am highly pleased with it ; indeed, it is of more value to a cutter than a multitude of systems. H. B. I take this opportunity of thanking you for the " Reliable System " I received about eight months ago. I must say it has proved " Reliable " beyond my expec- tations. R. M. I have been in the habit of getting your valuable journal for a great many years, and have found it very valuable. J.B. Livery Work to hand ; I am highly pleased with it. The new arrangement of the Plates is excellent ; it excels all past productions. W. R. Received Livery Plate and New Work on Liveries, and think them splendid. Good value and thoroughly up to date. D. G. W. ] have received the Plate of Fashion and am very much pleased with it. G. V. Your new Fashion Plate is most attrac- tive, and the details of style and colour- ing are all that could be desired. R. W. Very well satisfied with the Plate received. W. T. Plate arrived safely ; I like it very well. W. D. I am in receipt of Plate ; it is par excellence. W. M. MISCELLANEOUS APPLIANCES. I should like to say that the shears I had from your office have given every satisfaction ; they cut easy and free, and are very comfortable to the hands. I don't think they can be beaten. C.J.B. I was very much pleased with the Trimmers recently purchased. R. M. I am in want of a pair of Shears ; I had a pair from you about 10 years since and they turned out remarkably well. F. R., Hoyle. The Shears 1 received from you a week ago are excellent, and give every satis- faction ; I wish I had had them years ago. G. W., York. The Shears which I purchased from you over three years ago I am pleased to say have given me every satisfaction. R.B. I consider the Shears I had from you are very good H. W., Dundee. The Shears I had of you about seven years ago has given every satisfaction. J. C, Wellington. The Shears I had of yr u last year have given great satisfaction. L. W. I have no reason to regret one farthing spent with you either for Books, Gradua- ted Tapes, or Crayon-holder. They all give satis f action beyond my expectation. J. W. McG., Jamaica. The Graduated Tapes are excellent. I can strongly recommend them. D. M. The Tapes sent to me at Bury gave great satisfaction. Am glad to have them here. G. R. C, Hereford. A Golden Key of Success. Gentlemen, — Fourteen years ago I learned the cutting in Edinboro', after which I went to Dundee and began business as cutter. I knew the routine of Cutting, but had no confidence in my abilities ; but being a constant reader of the Tailor and Cutter I sent at that time for a set of your Patterns. I am far from you now ; I have managed several large businesses successfully, and am now proprietor of one of the largest trades in this city (Brisbane). In the social scale I have also risen and although a young man yet, I am President of the Municipality where I reside, and A MAGISTRATE OF THE TERRITORY. I do not mention this for a "blow ;" but, being a reader of your journal, I know you are always interested to know or hear of your boys — of whom I con- sider myself one. Well, sir ; what I wish to say is that the use of THAT OLD SET OF PATTERNS Has been the key to my success. — Yours, &c, J- Mel. PATTERNS. I use none but your patterns, and they give the greatest satisfaction. J. A. The Lounge pattern I got from you some time ago was a grand fit. G. G. All the patterns I have had have given great satisfaction. J. 0., Nottingham. Your patterns always give every satis- faction. The last Lounge — 40 breast — was simply splendid. E. W. D. I am in receipt of the patterns which I shall set a high price on ; I have been cutting by patterns from your office for years with success. J. E., Llanrhaiadr. The last Lounge patterns fitted splen- didly, and I am still using them with great success. J. P. T., Letterfrack. I have tried one of your Lounge pat- terns, and it pleased me very much ; therefore please send me a set of seven sizes. E. C. C, Baltimore, U.S.A. The Special pattern of coat which I had from you some weeks ago fits splen- didly. M. H., Sheffield. I Snd great satisfaction with using your special cut patterns. W. D., Donnybrook. Former patterns have given great satisfaction. J. S., Leek. The special cut D.B. Frock pattern had from you a few weeks ago was a very good fit. J. D., Clydach. The pattern I had some time back for corpulent man's trousers fitted very well C. H. S., Canterbury. The lady's Bodice and Skirt patterns fit beautifully. W. M., Hayston Hill. Your last suit patterns produced a splendid fit, and pleased a customer I never was successful with before. J. M. The Frock patterns I obtained at your office when in town go grand. A. H. R. Lady's Cloak and Ulster patterns fitted splendidly without try-on ; also Lounge. J. G., Pembroke My success in the past, for which I thank you, is through the use of your patterns. J. W., Glazebury. I have not had the privilege of attend- ing your Academy, but by using your patterns, both Model and Special, I have been very successful. T. S., Silverdale. I found trouser pattern a perfect fit, and had another order for the same customer. C. M., West Brompton. Your last pattern — Morning Coat — fitted admirably well. J. F., Kettering. Highly pleased with last patterns. J. H. I have used your patterns of Coats and Vests with great success. J. M. Lady's Jacket and Bodice I had of you last week fitted splendidly. J. P A. Patterns received safe, and very satis- factory. G. A. B., Athens, Canada. The John Williamson Company Limited, 93 & 94 Drury Lane. London, W.C. The Tailor and Cutter Semi-Annual PLATE OF FASHION. FOR AUTUMN AND WINTER, 1893-94. The Plate of which this block is a very faint representation measures 13^ by 22J inches. It shows 18 Figures, and illustrates both the New Styles and the New Materials in Fashionable Dress ; and is accompanied by a full Report ol Current Styles as made in the best West End trades. 1 1 n ■ 1 1 1 . 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 iiii iii 1 1. 1 . 1 1 1 1 1 ■ i ■ 1 1 1 1 1 ii i m ■ 1 1 1 1 1 1 ii mm . i As we survey the Plate which we have this season the pleasure of introducing to our patrons, we are strongly reminded that while changes in gentlemens' attire are of slow growth, they are none the less continuous and certain. As each season comes round we have invariably some distinctly new garment or features in garments to introduce ; but to be able to do this successfully, we require of course to be continually in touch with the sources from whence new styles emanate. It is by following this course — many sources of information being opened to us — that the styles represented on our new Plates are considerably in advance of those of many of our contemporaries. One of the chief difficulties in getting up such a Plate as this, is to impart freshness— something that will be new, and an advance upon all previous productions, and at the same time a Plate which will be of real practical value to every patron who procures it, whatever his class of trade may be. We have no hesitation in stating that such is the Plate now before us. We might also make this further introductory remark : that every figure upon the Plate will bear the closest inspection, every detail being brought out with the utmost possible accuracy — a matter of importance this, to the cutter who has to produce the garment illus- trated on any of the figures. 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 ii i i 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 ' , 1 1 , n 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 n 1 1 1 1 ■ Coloured, Six Shillings and Sixpence. Special Tinted Edition, Three Shillings and Sixpence. Name at bottom in large letters, One Shilling extra. The John Williamson Company, Limited, 93 & 94, Drury Laue, London, W.C. NEW PLATE. NOW READY. BRITISH LIVERIES, SHOWING LIVERIES IN ALL THEIR VARIED FORMS, From a recent Lord Mayor's Liveries to those worn by the Single Livery Servant Every resource we possess has been brought to bear in the production of this New Livery Plate. Every Style of British Livery has been very carefully produced, in the utmost exactitude of detail, and the COLOURING HAS BEEN DONE IN THE HIGHEST CLASS OF ART. The above Uncoloured Miniature conveys but an imperfect idea of the original Plate, coloured ; but it shows the number and scope of the Liveries illustrated sufficiently to show that the Plate complete, forms J^ w&&M^iM®®mi Wmimtm • PRICE, TWELVE SHILLINGS IN EXTRA COLOURS. SIX SHILLINGS, PLAIN, A MAGNIFICENT BUCK AND GOLD FRAME FOR SAME IS SUPPLIED AT 12s. 6d. %* Livery Patterns. — As one of the chief features in making Liveries is having all the details exact, those who experience any difficulty should send to the Tailor and Cutter Office, when they can procure a Pattern of any style illustrated upon the above Plate, with all the details exact, for Is. 2d. This is a privilege which the inexperienced would do well to embrace. See full particulars of Livery Work on next page. The John Williamson Company, Limited, 93 & 94, Drury Lane, London, W.C. NEW WORK. NOW READY. BRITISH LIVERIES, it ill i\m fiFiilkif iiilitii| laipt Bpsi Being Part 4 of the " Cutters' Practical Guide " to the Cutting all kinds of Garments. t§ ' I I 1 I I I I I I I I I I I I II ill I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I ■ I I ! ! l I I ! I I I ! I I " I ' ' ' ' ' ' ■ ' " ' A New Practical Work for the production of British Liveries is quite as important as a New Plate of Liveries. This Work contains Systems and full detailed Instructions for the production of all the Liveries illustrated upon our New Plate ; each garment being accompanied by beautifully illustrated Plates of Diagrams. As conveying the best possible idea of this work we give here AN ALPHABETICAL LIST OF CONTENTS: A. Aigulette (Appendix) B. Badge on the arm Baron Ward once a Livery servant Buttons, special features of, &c ,, number required for various garments Breeches System Butler's Dress Coat, Vest and Trousers Baron Bothschild's Huntsman Beadle Lord Mayor's Bilston Bearers British Consul's Dress c. Cockade, how to put on a hat Coachman's Biding Trousers ,, Breeches ,, "Vests ,, Sleeve Vests ,, Frock Coat ,, Morning Coat ,, State Livery Continuations Collars Cuffs for Livery Coat System Court Dress, Unofficial Capes, Three-quarter Circle Consul- General's Dress D. Delicate Question, A Details of finish in Footman's Coatee Details of finish in Groom's Frock ,, ,, Butler's Dress Coat Details of finish in Page's Jacket Coachman's Overcoat Footman's Overcoat Groom's Overcoat Court Dress State Livery E. Edges of Livery garments, how finished Employers charging tailors with dis- honesty Embroidery on Court Dress ,, ,, State or Full Dress Livery Economy Lays F. Fine of £\ ,000 for allowing men to wear Livery French Liveries Footmen's Trousers ,, Breeches Vests Coatee Pantry Jacket ., Full Dress G. Guide for details, The best Gaiters Groom's Frock ,, Breeches ,, Vests ,, Overcoat ,, Stable Suit Gamekeeper's Coat H. Hats for Livery Hints on making Plush Breeches ,, ,, Breeches , , , , Sleeve Vests and Vests ,, ,, Groom's Frock ,, ,, Huntsman's Frock ,, ,, Gamekeeper's Coat ,, ,, Livery Overcoat Huntsman's Frock Groom's Stable Jacket How to make Macintosh K. Knees of Breeches, how made up L. Livery, definition of origin of ,, worn by retainers Licenses necessary to keep liveried servants Licenses granted by Queen Mary ,, ,, ,, Elizabeth Licenses abolished in the reign of Charles II. Livery servant becoming wealthy Livery Companies of London Livery, when supplied Leggings Length of Coachman's Frock M. Merchant Taylors' Company's Coat-of arms Materials used for livery garments Mourning, rules for Measures required ; f or Breeches Materials used for L nofficial Court Dres Macintoshes Measures and how to take them 0, Overcoats for Livery and how to cut them Official Court Costume P. Poets and livery Plush Breeches, how cut Position of Pockets in Vests Page's Jacket Postillion's Jacket Prices charged for Court Dress Piping the sideseam of Trousers Position of brace and strap buttons Proportion of various measures to breast Piping on the edge of Coachman's Frock Price list of sundries R. Rules for the selection of colours Removing dirt stains from Overcoats s. Special features of Livery Garments Silver lace on hats Sleeve Vests Skirt System Sword Flaps Side edges Stable Clothes for Coachmen System for Morning Coat ,, Lounge ,, all kinds of Sleeves State Livery Semi-state Livery Sac Overcoat Split Falls Scale of Measures T. Trouser System Trousers and Breeches for Court Dress Y. Vests, no-collar and Roll-collar ,, for State Dress Various classes of Court Costume Varieties of Livery Full Dress Variations at the sideseam of Vests w. Workmanship, special features of Livery Garments Wigs for Coachmen Whole Falls Windsor Uniform I I I I I I I I I ■ I T \ I I I I I I I I I | | I II I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I PRICE TEN SHILLINGS. The John Williamson Company Limited, 93 & 94 Drury Lane, London, W.C. THE PICK OF THE SHEAR MARKET Herald Lever Shears. The lever pullB the blade quite half an inch back through the cloth during the process of cutting thereby combining the or- d i n a ry ac ti on of the B h e are with that of a knif e The Tailor and Cutter Shears. The beet in the market for ease and oom • fort in outting ; durability, and excel- lence of finish. Specially manufactured for the "Tailor and Cutter " office. H. Seymour & Co.'s Patent Shears. Advantages of the adjustable Level Spring and Bolt : — No more loose bolts ; easily taken apart to clean, or sharpen ; adjustable to run tight 01 loose. Cutting power increased. Require sharp ening less often. Edges kept together without pressure on the handles fleinisch's Shears and Trimmers. Having made a special arrangement with Messrs, fleinisch's English representative we are enabled to supply these renowned American Shears and Trim- mers at exceptionally low prices. They always give satisfaction. Sizes and Prices of Shears. Herald Lever Shears. £ s. d 17 6 1 12 6 2 4 2 15 in, 12 13 14 15 Tailor & Cotter Shears. 12J 13 13} 14 14* 15 1 4 1 7 6 1 10 1 12 6 1 16 6 2 Seymours Heinisch's Shears. 1 Shears. in. £ s. d in. £ s. d Hi 1 12 15 124 ! 4 12J 1 13 i la 13 1 2 b 134 1 16 132 1 12 6 14 2 14 2 U 144 a 4 144 2 4 15 2 8 154 2 10 Trimmers. Trimmers. STRAIGHT. STRAIGHT. 8 .. 5 9 4 9 .. 6 10 4 6 10 .. 8 12 .. 5 l < 11 . . 10 13 .. 6 6 BENT. BENT. 9 .. 7 9 .. 4 6 10 .. 8 6 10 .. 5 I) 11 ..10 12 .. 6 6 12 .. 11 13 .. 7 3 Special Line. A good useful and cheap Shear (with rest) in. £ s. d 12 12 6 13 18 6 14 16 15 1 12 6 Button-hole Scissors, made of the finest steel, in all the most useful sizes. — See Chart for prioes and par- ticulars. The' John Williamson Company Limited, 93 & 94 Drury Lane. London W.C. TAILORS' STOVES & IRONS. The Leamington Stove. Specially suitable for burning Coal, Wood or Charcoal Small size (as Drawing) Medium Large, Oven 16x12x12 Oven 21x13x13 Oven 31x13x13 701- 105/- 170/- Sleeve Boards. The great superiority of the Tailor and Cutter Sleeve Boards has led to such an extensive demand of late, that we have found it desirable to make this a special branch of our business. Oar Sleeve Boards are therefore made on our own premises from specially selected timber ef the most suitable kind — thoroughly well seasoned ard of the soundest and best quality that can be procured. A large number is now being made for stock, which we can t-afely as-sert will give the highest satisfaction. They are supplied in seven sizes, each 27 inches long, as follows : No. 1—5 by 3 size at ends 3/6 No. 2—6 by 3 „ 3/9 No. 3—7 by 4 41- No. 4 — 8 by 5 siz? at ends 4/4 No. 5—8 by 6 „ 4/6 No. 6—9 by 7 ., 4/8 Board for Trousers 10 by 8 5/- Tailors' Crayons Tailors' Crayons of the very best quality only. Price 2,'- per box Free by Parcel Post 9d. extra. Black Lead Pencil Crayons. We have made special arrangements with the manufacturer of the finest and most durable Pencil Crayons that are made. The lead is of the best quality, and the finish, both of the crayon itself and of the wood in which it is encased, is every thiDg that the most fastidious coild desire. Single Crayons 6d. ; per doz. 4/6, post free. " The Atmospheric " Gas Stove. Patent Smokeless Burners, con- half the amount of an ordinary Gas Stove. No smell, no smoke, no fixing. Price, 1 hole, 9/-; 2, 18/-; 3, 27/-; 4. 38/-. LARGEST sizes to order. Fashion Tailors' Stove. No fixing, burns any fuel, placed in operation in a few minutes ; cost for burning, ll£d. per week ; will hold 10 irons. PRICE 37/6. Larger sizes £2 1 5s., £3 3s., & £3 1 5s. Tb° John Williamson Company Limited, 93 & 94 Drury Lane, Tailors' Broad-faced Irons. By a special arrangement with the largest and best foundry in the country, these can now be supplied in all sizes. Price 3d. per lb. Combination Crayon Holder and Tracing Wheel. An adjunct to the Cutting board ranking in value second only to the shears. A wonderful economiser, for by its means the smallest piece of clay can be used with the power and freedom of a whole cake. One piece will last three times as long as is usually the case Perfectly simple in adjustment, handy in shape and size and can easily be carried in the waistcoat pocket. The points of the wheel are entirely protected when not in use, and can be brought into action by turning a screw with the finger and thumb. The wheel in no way interferes with its utility as a crayon- holder. The price does not exceed that of an ordinary tracing wheel. It protects the crayon from breakage. It preserves the crayon from dirt. It is a safeguard against waste. It is a security against annoyance. The Combination Crayon-holder and Tracing Wheel is beautifully finished, the edges being carefully bevelled and the whole highly nickel-plated. Price 2/6. Post free, 2/8. The John Williamson Company Limited, 98 & 94 Drury Lane, London, W.C. GRADUATED SQUARES, k. This ingenious arrangement is intended to combine the advantages of a set of graduated tapes in one handy instrument, and there is no doubt it answers its purpose admirably. It is arranged so that measuring from a given point you can find the divisions required for every breast measure, to find all the points in every kind of garment, the only variation necessary being that, instead of using the quantities z\, 3, 4^, 6, 9, 12 and so on, the cutter will have to turn to the divisions marked \, one sixth, \, \, \ or f , and then mark off opposite the numbers agreeing with the breast measure he is cutting for. Thus practically sim- plifying the method of graduation divi- considerably. The square is made o the very best material, and every divi- sirn marked with the greatest possi- ble care, so that strict accuracy may be fully relied on. PBICE 7s. 6d. POST FEEE Tailors' Squares. Squares. 24 by 27 nicely bevelled, 4/9 27 by 18 do. 4/- 24 by 24 do. 4/- 24 by 18 do. 3/6 27 by 27 do. 5/6 Diagram Squares. Boxwood 2/- Brass ... ... ... 3/6 do In Leather Case... 4/- do Electro-Plated ... 5/- Trouser Cirves. Brass ends 2/6, 3/6 Straight Edge* \ inch wide, 18 long 6 tips, 1st quality 4d- Common Inch, with looped end for troQB ere and sleeve measuring The Centimetre Tape, with decimal scale, Continental stamp The Bight Hand Tape, with figures erect, for Catting Board The Leather Tape, very excellent 4d. 8d. 3d. 7d. The Tronser Tape, with 2 inch brass end to fit in fork . . . . 4d The Upright Tape, with small brass thumb piece .. .. 8d. THE A8SOBTED DOZEN, ineludlrg all tape measures used by the trade in the Cutting Boom or in the Shop, 2s. post free 2b. 6d. Graduated Tapes. The " Tailor and Cutter " Graduated Tapes with treatise, 3/, 3/9, 6/, 7/0. Deans (or Reeds) Graduated Tapes, 5/. The Cutters' Practioal Guide Graduated Tapes (on paper), 2/6. There are in us 3 many dif- ferent kinds or makes of squares ; but hitherto, none have come up to our idea of what a convenient make of tailors' square ought to be, the common make is a weak jointed, one sided, clumsy kind of a thing, often getting out of the square, and, owing to the weight of use- less timber, the joints give way. A few and vate have years since, we had one made and special use. seen the square arranged for our Students and others in use, and expressed desire to possess a copy of it. We had a number made to oblige our friends ; no soon- er were they seen, than orders for the new make of square came in from many quarters. The square is fast jointed, finished alike on both sides ; and the edges being bevelled will admit of much greater exactness in making the different divisions than is possible by the thick edge of the old make of squares. The short arm is 12 inches long, and the other 21 inches ; the inner edge being nicely curved, which is suited for pleats, waist seam of skirts, and many parts of a garment where the same kind of a curved line is found. For trousers cutting, the new make of square is specially adapted for shaping the seams by a clean free curve ; and in seouring a nice front and fork seam. We have made speoial ar- rangements with a first- class firm of square makers, which enables us to supply The Old or Ordinary Graduated Tapes. Are still supplied at The Tailor and Gutter Offioe. Fikst Quality 5s. Second Quality 3s. 6d., Postage 3d. extra. These also are accompanied by a Treatise. them at a price within the reach of all. N.B. — The above Squares can also be had made in an entirely new form — a new material having been introduoed by The John Williamson Company Limited, from which they are now being manufactured. This material has the appearanoe of the finest Ivory ; is strong and light, and the square having no hinge or fastening of any kind cannot become inaccurate. The price of the Registered Curved Square (as Bhown above) in ordinary box- wood with brass corner piece is 4/6 ; or in the new material 5/6. The price of the Diagram Square, in the new material, is 2/6 in brasB 3/6 ; electro plate 5/-. Postage 3d. extra in all cases. nea Dy a xreatise. in DrasB a/o ; eiectro piaie o/-. .rosiage »a. e: The John Williamson Company Limited, 93 & 94 Drury Lane, London, W.C TRODSER STRETCHERS. THE SHILLING STRETCHER. NO MORE CREASES OR BAGGY KNEES IN TROUSERS. Energetic Tailors are al- ways on the look out for good selling articles, that realise a fair profit, and when they can introduce something to overcome a defect in Trousers which is always apparent in a more or less degree, they are serving a double purpose; so that when we call atten- tion of the Tailoring Trade to the prices at which we sup- ply these Trouser Stretchers they will at once see they can command a Ready Sale with a good profit, and also remedy a defect. Sold to the Trade Only. We have arranged for the agency of this simple and effective aparatus, and now S^ offer them to the trade at ^= ONE SHILLING- EACH, Post Free,1/4^,or 12/ per doz., carriage charged forward. The John Williamson Company Limited, 93 & 4 Drnrv Lane, London, W.C. gvery Gentleman's Demand. ^' <*v* Supplied by The John Williamson Company Limited, 93 Sc 94, Drury Lane Loudon, W.C. Price per doz. 30/-, 36/-, 48/-, 60s Single Stretohers 3/-, 3/6, 4/6, 5/6 Button Machine, Tailors' Stoves, k The "Eclair" *"¥ a Button Making (By Royal Letters Patent.) Gold Medal, Bronze Medal, Paris Exhibition, 1889. MACHINE. Gold Medal, Bronze Medal, Algiers Exhibition 1889. The»Ecia>r" Button Making Machine u simpler in operation, produce* more perfect button*, and it cheaper, than any Button Making Machine ever offered to the Public. It is of the utmost value to Tailors, Dressmakers, Outfitters, Upholsterers, Ac, enabling them quickly to make buttons of any size with any material desired. With each machine are supplied 3 steel cutters, of different sizes, 3 guages to correspond with the cutters, cutting block holder, and iron and wood pegs, all enclosed in a neat hardwood box, HPIE&IOIE 21/-. Extra guages and cutters for buttons up to 60 lines can be supplied at prices varying with the size required. Button Moulds (Shanks and Cups;, Black or Bright, at from 1/- per grosr. The John Williamson Company, Limited, 93 & 94 Drury Lane. London, W.C. RELIABLE MODEL and SPECIAL PATTERNS. CUTTERS' Practical Guide Coat Patterns, FOR MORNING COAT, LOUNGE, REEFER AND FROCKS 1 a Lounge. Horning Cost. a | •1 n e m s I * • * 9 s * • a IS tt c i o _ rr 1 K m B t \ c i a r i s s 82 28 II 1 16 28 18 81* 6* 80 ?t 11* 15* 84 80 16* 28* 18* 82 6j 81 i 12 1H 86 82 9 17 29 19 82* l\ 82 8 IS* 17 88 84 »S 17* 29* 19| 33 n 88 8* 18 17! 40 87 n 17f 80 38* 8 88* 9 13* lRj 42 39*. 10* 18 80* 20 84 H 88* H 14 | 1»| 44 42 10* 18* 81 20* 84 H 84 10 14*1 20 46 46 10$ 18* 81* 20* 84* 9 84 10* 15* 21 48 50 11 1 18* 82 20* 84* 3 84 11 16 2S 50 54 11* ! 18* 32 20* 85 84 11* 16$; 28 Length of Frook coats about 3 inohes longer than Morning Coat i. Length of Chester 3 inohes longer than Frook Coats. Coats : Single Pattern, lOd. ; Set of 7, 4s. 3d ; or the complete set 10, 6s. 6d. Vests 5d. each ; set of 7, 2s. 3d. ; set of 10 complete, 3s. 3d. Post Free. THE NEW OVERCOAT PATTERNS. Specially tested patterns of every style of Overcoat shown on the inset — including the new Beaufort — can be supplied cut to measures proportionate to the 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 breast measure. Prices : S.B. or D.B. Chesterfields, single pattern lOd. ; set 4s. 3d. Ulsters, Caped Chesters, &c, Is. 2d. each pattern ; set of seven sizes, 5s. 3d. VEST PATTERNS In all the leading styles are supplied, rut in seven sizes : 32 to 44 breast. Price : single pattern 5d. ; set 2s. 3d. MODEL COAT PATTERNS. FOR BUSINESS OR WORKING MEN. Our ordinary Model Patterns are cut to fit comfortably close with a stylish appearance in wear. But bo frequently is it stated, in communications we receive, that " my customers are principally of the farmer or working class, with whom ease aod comfort are important considerations," that we have pre- pared sets of COAT PATTERNS specially for this class. They are cut in two styles only S.B. University, and S.B. Reefer, 7 sizes : 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, ana 44 b. measure and in brown paper only. One Pattern, lOd. The 8et 4/3. Post free. WORKING MEN'S TROUSERS. No 1 2 3 waist 32 84 36 scat 35 36 38 No. 4 5 6 waist 38 40 42 seat 40 42 44 One Pattern lOd. Set of 6 for 3/9. Post free. LINEN SHIRTS. Patterns of the above are supplied, cut proportionate to the 30 to 42 breast measure. Price lOd. each, or 4/6 the set of 7, post free. FLANNEL SHIRTS. Are also supplied, cut to the same measures, and at the same prices. New Set of Trousers Patterns. By the Prize Essayist in the late Trouser Cutting Competition. No. waiit teat knee bottom legr No. waiit tent knee bottom lei 1 12* 13 14* 14* 23 7 16* 19 18 17* 82 2 13 14 15* 15* 25 8 17* 20 18* 18 82 S 13$ 15 16 16 27 9 18* 21 19 18* 82 4 14 16 16| 16 28 10 20 22 19* 19 8) 6 15 17 17 17 29 11 22 23 20 19 8) 6 15 18 17* 17 31 12 23 24 21 19 81 6* 16 18 17 17 81 13 26 25* 21* 19* 81 One pattern 10c 1. ; set of 4, 2/8 ; set of 8, 4/- ; the set corn- plete of 14, 6/10, post free. Perfect Fitting Trousers. In 6 sizes : (1) 28 waist ; 34 seat ; 30 leg ; 17 knee ; 17 bottom • (2) 30 do. (3) 32 do. 36 do. 31 do. 18 do. 18 do. 38 do. 32 do. 18} do. 18 do. (4) 34 do. 40 do. 31 do. 18* do. 18* do. (5) 36 do. 37 do. 33 do. 17£ do. 17* do. (6) 38 do. 42 do. 32 do. 18£ do. 19 do. These Patterns are supplied at lOd. each, or 4/- the set of 6, post free. THE CITY TROUSERS. Specially Smart-fitting. Patterns of these, which have been described as " the best fitting Trousers in England," can now be had as models, price Is. each, or the set of seven, cut from 32 to 44 seat, for 5s. N.B. — Where required, a full sized draft with the lines left on will be substituted for one of the pattterns when a full set is ordered. The cost of full sized draft separately is Is. 6d. NEW MODEL PATTERNS OF Riding Pantaloons and Breeches. Riding Breeches Models. No. 1. — 30 waist 34 seat. , 2.-32 „ 36 ,, „ 3.-33 „ 38 „ ,. 4.-35 „ 40 „ 5.-38 „ 42 „ Riding Pantaloon Models. No. 1.-28 waist. 34 seat. „ 2.— 30 „ 36 3.-33 „ 38 4.-35 „ 40 5.-37 „ 42 it »> The John Williamson Company Limited, 93 & 94 Drury Lane, London W.C. Each Pattern lOd. the set of 5, 3/3 ; poet free, N.B. — Patterns of all kinds of Breeches, Leggings, Gaiters, &c, are supplied. SPECIAL PATTERNS. The figures illustrated on our inset pages represent a few of our leading styles for the present season. Model Patterns of all these — cut to proportionate sizes — are kept in stock, but we also make a feature of supplying Special Patterns cut to customers' own measures, and this is one of the most suc- cessful departments of our business. They can be cut for any garment, any style, any figure, and satisfaction is assured PRICES : Gents' or Ladies Jacket 1/2 „ „ Ulster 1/8 ,, ,. ,, with Cape ... 2/2 Ladies' Riding Train 1/8 „ „ Habit 1/2 „ ,, Trousers or Breeches ... 1/2 Clerical Cassocks and similar garments 1/8 Ladies' Costume Skirt 1/8 All kinds of Ladies', Gentlemen's, and Youths' Garments at proportionate prices. Special Order Form Free on application. THE TAILOR AND CUTTER, PUBLISHED EVERY THURSDAY, PRICE TWOPENCE. " The Tailor and Cutter " has so long been a household word in the tailoring world, that any description of it for tailors is wholly unnecessary. It has now been established over twenty-six years, and has a circulation double that of all its contemporaries added together, which is the best evidence we can give, that it continues to serve its mission ; not only in instructing the inex- perienced, but in enlightening those »f maturer knowledge. Its Fashion Plates, the world over, are pronounced unexcelled and considerably superior in Technical detail to any hitherto published, the circulation being very large in Germany, France, Italy, Belgium, America and Australia. Subscription, 12 months, 10/- ; 6 months 5/- ; 3 months 2/8, post free, to all parts of the globe. *£h» Itollor antd! Cutter And London Art Fashion Journal. (Monthly Edition). Published the 25th of each month, price Is. ; ^Subscription, 12 months 14s.; 6 months 7s. ; ; 3 months 3s. 6d., post free, in- cluding Special Numbers with extra Plates, to any part of the world. With Bi-Annual Plate, coloured. Weekly Edition, 12 months, 25/- ; 6 months, 13/-. Monthly Edition, 12 do. 26/-. 6 do. 13/6. Subscription Form on application. With Bi-Annual Plates, uncoloured. 12 months, 20/- ; 6 months 10/6. 12 do. 21/-; 6 do. 11/- Our Colonial and Foreign Editions. During recent years there has arisen a wide-spread and ever increasing demand for the Tailor and Cutter in all parts of the world where civilization has made the Tailoric Art a recognized factor in the mighty march of refinement and commer- cial progress. This applies both to the old world and to the new, and to meet the demand referred to arrangements have been made for the publication of the following foreign editions : — American edition.— Annual Subscription German „ „ . ... 3 Dolls. 17 Marks New Zealand Edition Australian edition — Annual Subscription French „ „ 12s. 12s. 18 Fee. Full particulars, with names and addresses of agents, will be supplied on application ; and the journal will also be forwarded to any other part of the world at the same rate as is oharged in this country. The Ladies' Tailor, Jacket, Ulster and Costume Cutter. 00- Published Monthly, and supplied through all the Agents and Booksellers who supply the "Tailor and Cutter.'' The Ladies Tailor supplies a long felt want, and is an essential requisite in connection with high-olass tailoring. The firBt and leading characteristic of this publication is the thorough practical nature of its contents, as distinguished from all other Ladies Fashion Journals. It is, above all things, an Educator in the Cuttiug of every style of Ladies Jackets and outer garments, such as are made by Tailors, Mantle and Costume Makers. Not only are systems for producing the various styles of these garments given, but — what is, in many esses, of more value — continuous instructions as to the manipulating of such, and the various features which require special attention, in order to turn out these garments to perfection, as regards fit, style and make. But, while we put the practical side of the Ladies Tailor first, its readers know that the Fashion Plates, both as regards their artistic merits and the styles represented — which are those continuously being made and turned out by the best firms who make ladies tailor-made garments — are of themselves an acquisition which could not be obtained elsewhere. Some numbers of the Ladies Tailor have shown as many as twelve to fifteen illustrations of garments, besides the systems for pro- ducing many of the styles, and practical instructious upon every point relating to their cutting. Tailoring firms who make ladies garments, should subscribe to the Ladies Tailor, when they will at once see that it is an indispensable necessity for those who wish to keeppace with the progress made in fashion and style in 30nnection with such garments. Price, 9d. Post Free, lOd. Annual Subscription 10s., Post Free. The John Williamson Comrjany Limited, New Volumes. The Tailor and Cutter Complete Volume for the year 1892 con- tains numerous Praotical Articles and Systems : " The Business Guide ; " Proceedings of Societies, Fashions, Patterns, &o. Price 12/6, post free. The Ladies' Tailor Complete Volume for 1892 contains: "PreBent- day Methods of Cutting ; " " Popular Styles and how to out them ; " " Defects from the Fitting Room ; " " Wrinkles ; " " Practical Ladies' Tailoring ; " Ladies' Fashions, Patterns, &o. Price 10/-, post free. Back Numbers And Past Years' Volumes Of Kecent Date, Can in most cases be supplied both of the Tailor and Gutter and Ladies' Tailor. Prices : Back numbers published during present year same as when published ; older numbers, double price. 93 & 94 Drury Lane, London, W.C. The Tailor and Gutter Electroes, FOR PRINTING AND ADVERTISING PURPOSES. Copper faced Electrotype Blocks, specially suited to the use of country printers, newspapers, &c, have been prepared, and can now be supplied at from 3/6 each, or 8 for 20/-. They are mounted on mahogany, and figures illustrating almost every style and garment are kept in stock. The figures printed above represent a few of the styles illustrated' Private Charts for Tailoring Firms. These Charts appear exactly as if prepared for each firm individually. During the years we have been preparing and supply- ing these Private Charts, we have been trying to discover which is the most generally suitable form, and we find that the most suitable thing is to change the form every season ; so that the Charts we have prepared for this season, are entirely different from anything we have yet sent out. They illustrate all the new and popular styles, and are arranged in convenient form to go in an envelope. They are a marvel of cheapness — we doubt indeed if our readers could get up a Chart of such figures at any price. 100 Copies 7/6; 200, 12/6; 300, 17/6; 500, 25/-; 1000, 42/- Specimen copy will be sent on receipt of one stamp for postage. Miniature Plates. Photo copies of our Semi-Annual Plate can -be specially printed for those firms requiring to use them //or advertis- Trade Printing. Many good provincial trades have been made by judicious advertising, chiefly by illustrated Charts, Circu- lars and Cards delivered by hand or post. To be effective the illustrations must be got [up in first class style, the cost of which, and the skill required in getting up such, are often beyond the resources of the enterprising provin- cial tailor. We at the Tailor and Cutter Office have un- equalled resources— our illustrations of the newest styles and methods of producing them, being unrivalled. We are arranging to let our provincial subscribers have the benefit of these for pushing and advertising purposes. Our projects will take a variety of forms, which we will very shortly introduce. One of these, of which special mention may be made, is our ARTISTIC BUSINESS CARD, With name and address on one side and on the other either a small group of figures showing the newest styles, a calendar for the year, a small business address, or similar matter. The price of 500 of these is 20/-; 1000, 35/-. SELF- MEASUREMENT FORMS With block showing how measures should be taken. Price 20/- per 1000. This is another speciality which many of our trade will find useful. ing purpones. Price 10/- per 100 ; 60/- per 1000. The John Williamson Company, Limited, 93 & 94, Drury Lane, London, W.C. ABRIDGED CATALOGUE, containing short notices of the works, not described on previous pages, published at the 'tailor and cutter" office, Our larger Catalogue, giving details of each work, can be had from the "Tailor and Cutter" Office, on receipt of stamp for postage. Practical Tailoring, A TREATISE EMBBACING THE WHOLE SUBJECT OF GARMENT MAKING, Giving special and deta'led instructions upon the making of every kind of garment made by Tailors. A Book of Reference equally adapted for the Cutting Room or Workshop. Illustrated by numerous photographs taken from life, Every detail also accompanied by Diagrams. It is now nearly 20 years sinoe our first work on Practical Garment Making was published. So many changes, both in Fashion and in the making and manipulating of garments, have been introduced sinoe then, as to have rendered that work in many of its parts obsolete. Hence this New Work, based upon the latest methods of garment making, which we have now the pleasure of introducing to the mem- bers of the tailoring trade. It will be found quite up to date as garments are now being made in the best firms. This is an entirely New Work, and as the names on the title page will testify, it is the work of thoroughly com- petent practical men. The scope of the Work and its consequent extent, render it necessary that it be brought out in a series of parts — probably four or five Each part will be made as complete as pos- sible in itself — this first part, foi example, em- embracing illustrated instructions of all the different sewings used by tailers, as also every detail connected with the making of a plain pair of trousers. The work is got up in good style, printed on good heavy paper, and is nicely bound in cloth gilt lettered. Part One.— Price 5/-. Post free 5/3. Part II. in preparation, and will be ready shortly. THE Art of Garment Making. A few Copies only of the complete volume of this elaborate and profusely illustrated work on Practical Tailoring are in stock, and will be sold at 7/6. Post free, 7/9. NEW WORK. Prize Competition Essay, ON TROUSER CUTTING. A Treatise embracing the whele subject of Trouser Cutting. The SYSTEM applied to all the usual forms of Dispro- portion. Common Defects and their Remedies beiDg also fully treated. BY MR. JOHN LEIGHTON. As this Competition has had a special inte- rest for every reader, they will naturally be desirous of possessing both the Treatise and the Patterns. To facilitate this we are making the standard price (Including Patterns) 5/-. Post free 5/3. PRIZE Economy in Cutting, THIRD EDITION. A.t this time when competition runs so high, and prices must be cut so fine, it has become forcibly impressed upon ua, that a work might very advantageously be devoted to ECONOMY IN Cutting. We had little difficulty in selecting an author of thorough practical ex- perience for this work. Mr. Falconer having devoted special attention to the matter of Economy. Many of our readers will recollect that when some years ago we offered a prize for the best and most economical " lays," Mr. Falconer carried off the First Prize. We are satisfied no one is better qualified to reduce the whole subject of Economy to a system adaptable toevery garment or series of garments, which are to be cut out of the same material. it the same time. The completeness with which Mr. Falconer has done his work will be found in the fact of its containing no less than Thibty Plates illustbating dippeb- ent Lays. Hanging from one to four garments on each lay or illustration. Price 7/6. Post 7/9. Competition Treatise The Art of Cutting by ON MODEL PATTERNS. And their adaptation to Dispro- portionate Figures. Including Coats, V tsts, and Trousers No subject of greater importance than the facility by which a pattern or system can be adapted to the varied forms of disproportion which come before the cutter in ordinary practice. In the present essay this subject is treated exhaustively both from scientific and practical view points by a practical cutter of repute. It will be at once an acquisition and boon both to the experienced cutter and the novice. JJ Price 5/ -. Post free, 5/3. A NEW SYSTEM ENTITLED The "Certain System OF COAT CUTTING. The author claims, after thirty years prac- tice, that it is safe, sure and simple, cannot le*d you astray, is absolutely true. Now Ready, Price 7/6. Post free 7/9. MODEL PATTERNS. By Mr. Falconer All who out by Block or Model Patterns — and they are now a largely increasing number — should procure this very elaborate and highly instructive work. The increasing num- ber of those who use Model Patterns is doubt- less due in a large measure to the reliability, both in fit and style, of the patterns supplied at the Tailor and Cutter Office ; but still these Patterns are necessarily adapted to proportion- ate or ordinarily well made figures, while the ABT OP CUTTING consists in adapting a pattern to any customer's form of the same breast measure. It is but a minority, we fear of those who cut by Model Patterns that are capable of doing so. Here, then, is a work prepared expressly for those who cannot adapt their Model Patterns as we have described. Such a work, we repeat, should be in the hands of everyone who uses Model Patterns. Price 7/6. Post free, 7/9. NATIONAL Average Time Log, Being the average qf about 50 of the Logs o the leading Towns and Cities of the United Kingdom. The fullest and most comprehen- s ive Log ever published. Price 2/6. Post free, 2/9, The John Williamson Company, Limited, 93 & 94, Drury Lane, London, W.C. ABRIDGED CATALOGUE. The Catting Room, ITS DUTIES AND ROUTINE, Being 1st and 2nd Prize Essays in a recent Competition. It will be sufficient to state that each of these Prize Essays form an exhaustive Treatise on the Duties and Routine of the Cutting Room. The practical importance of this sub jact to every member of the cutting profes sion induced ms to offer handsome prizes with the result of producing two very excellent Treatises. This work enters into, and treats from a thorough practical point of view everything relating to cutting room routine, and every- thing relating to the working of, and what is required by, first-class tailoring firms. For young men aspiring to be Gutters, aad Gutte 4 of limited experience, this book is invaluable aa it conveys very faithfully what the dutie »nd routine of the Catting Room are. Price 6/-. Post free 6/3. DEFECTS IN Coats & their Remedies. Two Treatises by Mr. John E. Leighton & Mr. C. T. Green. Being the two First Essays in a Competition for j wo prizes offered to the entire trade by the City of London Master and Foremen Tailors' Society. The importance of such a work in connection with practioal cutting is too apparent to require ; any appeal in its favour. The following index of the subjeots treated, as well as Defects in Coats, to each of which practical remedies are given, are all that is required to show the practical value of this work to every cutter. Price 7/6, Post free 7/9. Art and Style IN CUTTING AND MAKING FROCKS, REEFERS, LOUNGES, Ac. Being the product of many eminent praotic^l Cutters. FORMING A Highly Instructive & Valuable Treatise. The combined wisdom of upwards of fifty leading cutters is laid down in Essay Compe- titions, showing their plans of meeting dispro- portion, the methods they adopt to hide the deformities of their customers ; how they have wade men with bumpg on their backs present- able ; how they altered the appearance of men with shoulders of various shapes ; and made them all appear nearer the ideal image of man than their own misshapen bodies indicated. Besides, all this, style has received very able treatment the many varieties being clearly defined, the special features to be observed in producing each to perfection explicitly laid down, and many little " wrinkles " of the most useful n iture explained. The various methods of manipulation are fully explained, consequently making this work a most useful and valuable addition to our trade literature. It also contains a number of beautifully Engiaved Diagrams, i lust.rat.ing the various features dealt with. Price 5s. Post free, 6a. 3d. Dr. Wampen's Systems And Works, as adapted for Daily Practice. By MR. R. WILLIAMSON. This work contains all that is of praotioal value to the Cutter in Wampen's Works. There are comparatively very few Cutter* if the present day who know anything more of Dr. Wampen than as a name of great repute — i kind of Shakespeare in Cutting. As is well known, the Doctor's works during late years cannot be procured at any price ; and when procured, they are few indeed who have either the time or the patience to study them suffi oiently so as to turn them to any practical account. Still, as the Doctor's works contain a mine of wealth ia the way of sound basis and principles for outting. The difficulty in the way of their practical application has now been overcome. Price 3/. Post Free 3/3. The Seven Stars C0AT8& TROUSERS SYSTEMS. These comprise two distinct works, the Seven Star Coat Systems and the Seven Star Trouser Systems. Each work contains seven systems in daily practice, by seven eminent Cutters, accompanied by what each considers the secret of success in the cutting of Coats and Trousers. Each of these works met with a large demand on their first appearance, and the systems and instructions in both works have been very highly commended. The Seven Star Coat aad Trouser 8ys terns, 7/6 each. Post free 7/9 each. The two works handsomely bound in one volume, price 13/-. Post free, 13/6. Reliable Systems j Coats TROUSERS AND VESTS. " The great want in the Cutting profession had hitherto been something simple, reliable and practical. It was to meet this that these RE- LIABLE SYSTEMS were first published, and it I is the opinion of many who practice them, that | in these systems the want has been supplied — Coat System 10/- ; Trousers System 10/- Yest System 6/6. ! Complete Volume, handsomely bound, 25/ - Postage 6d. extra. Each System is bound in stiff cover, and the Complete Volume is handsomely bound in ornamental gilt and bevelled boards. Belfast' s CompleteWorks IN THREE PARTS. Coat System, 3/6. Trouser System 3/6. Systems adapted lo Ladies' Habits, Jackets -^> j " Many able writers on cutting — writes the Dr. in his introduction — have during the last twenty years, made honest efforts to arrange a method or system which would enable those that might use it to avoid at least a few of the many defects observable in the balance and the fitting of trousers. Has this very desirable consummation been brought to view, or within measurable radius ? The honest critic, and those who have to attend to this branch of practical tailoring, will answer in the negative In the concluding paragraph of the introduction, the Dr. states: " In the System I am now introducing to the notice of my fellow labourers in the same sphere of thought, a departure is made from the beaten path, and the direction indicated in which the means may be found to avoid at least a few of the common defects in the fitting of trousers ; such as the excess of length in the under parts, &c, &c." This Work iorms an exhaustive Treatise on the whole subject of Trouser Cutting, by one of the greatest living thinkers on the principles of Scientific Cutting. The whole work — while the practical is amply demonstrated — treats largely of principles, which are practically illustrated by numerous figures and diagrams. For all classes of cutters this Work will be found highly suggestive, instructive, and corrective of many errors in Trouser Cutting. PRICE SEVEN SHILLINGS AND SIXPENCE. OTHER WORKS BY Dr. HUMPHREYS. POLYTECHNIC Coat System j embracing the experience of 35 years as Cutter, Teacher & Author ; including also All ideas of praotical value which have APPEARED in his PREVIOUS WORKS, Set forth in the simplest and most practical form. The exhaustive manner in which each sub- ject brought under notice is discussed, makes this work more of an educator than any we have hitherto published. It is not simply giving so many systems or applications of sys- tems to certain garments, but we have here everything relating to the cutting and mani pnlatiog of those garments. Price 7/6. Post free 7/9. POLYTECHNIC Vest System. With a view of giving completeness to the Series of the Doctor's Works, a work on Vests has also been prepared, embodying the whole subject of Vest Cutting in all variety of styles. An especial feature of this work is its em- bracing a series of 8 beautifully engraved Plates showing all the new and fashionable styles of Vests ; also 5 Plates of Diagrams illustrating the System and instructions con- tained in the work. Price 5/-. Post free, 5/3. Academy Trousers and Other Systems. The various sections of this work are illus- trated by 14 beautifully engraved Plates. This is doubless one of the most comprehensive works on the whole subject of Trousers Cutting yet published; the Doctor's many years' experience is brought to bear upon every page, the whole forming a practical guide for every-day use and work. Price 7/6. Post Free 7/9 Dr. Humphreys' Works IN ONE COMPLETE VOLUME. Now that this Series of Works by the Dr. is complete, we have prepared them togethei in one substantial and very handsome volume This embraces the Works, particulars of which precede this notice, viz. : Practical Trouser Cutting. The Polytechnic Coat System. The Academy Trouser and other Systems. The Polytechnic Vest System. The value of this volume in its complete form will be apparent to all who can appreciate high- class Practical Teaching in the Art and Science of Cutting. Price 28/- Post free 28/9. The John Williamson Company, Limited, 98 & 94, Dmry Lane, London, W.C. ABRIDGED CATALOGUE. Second Edition. THE CUTTERS' PRACTICAL GUIDE TO THE CUTTING OF EVERY ) Kind of Garment Made by Tailors With copious hints on their production ; containing Systems for all kinds and styles, Vests, Trousers, Breeches, Surplices, Cassocks and many special garments, the systems of which are applicable to youths and gents' garments. Illustrated by upward of 100 original figures, expressly designed for this work, and nearly 200 diagrams showing the practical applications of the systems. The whole forming one of the most complete works on the Art of Cutting ever offered to the trade. HANDSOMELY BOUND 15s. PART TWO OF THE ABOVE WORK, EMBRACING Body Coats of Every Description, Including Morning, Lounge, Frock and Dress Coats ; Livery, Clerical, Military, Naval Police and many other special garments. The work is got up uniform with Part One, in the same clear type, on a superior cream coloured paper. PRICE 10s. POST FREE, 10s. 3d. NEW WORK— RECENTLY PUBLISHED Modern British Liveries, IN ALL THEIR VARIETIES, INCLUDING COURT DRESS. Being Part Four of the " Cutters' Practical Guide to the cutting all kinds of garments." This work contains Systems and full detailed instructions for the production of all the Live- ries illustrated upon our new Plate. Each garment being accompanied by beautifully il- lustrated Plates of Diagrams. Price 10/-. Post free 10/3. GREAT NATIONAL Work on Tronser Gutting THEIR DEFECTS AND CURE. This work is i thoroughly practical, and dea.ls with every phase of Trouser Cutting, together with a reliable system, with its adapta- tions to all requirements and all styles, as well as giving the cause and cure of 47 defects in trousers, hints on making, Ac. illustrated by 70 diagrams. Bound in Cloth 9/-. Paper Covers 7/6. Post free 9/3 and 7/9. IN ONE VOLUME. THE CUTTERS' Practical Guide Systems. SPECIAL NOTICE. We are arran.iiig to supply THE Cutters' Practical Guide TO THE CUTTING OF LADIES' TAILOR - MADE GARMENTS, The Cutters' Practical Guide, Part 1, Embracing all the New and Current (JUVENILE & YOUTHS' GARMENTS.) Price 15/. The Cutters' Practical Guide, Part 2 (ALL KINDS OF BODY COATS.) Price 10/-. National Prize Essay Trouser System. Price 9/-. Bound together in one handsome volume (bevelled boards), price 30/-. Styles of every class and style of Ladies' Garment now being made in the best tailoring firms. This work is got up in first-class style, the diagrams and illustrative figures being all beautifully engraved in the highest cla^s of Art, and printed on toned paper of excellent quality, bound in cloth and gilt. For such a work, it Is supplied at the lowest possible price, Ten Shillings. The John Williamson Company Limited, 98 & 94 Drury Lane, London, W.C. ABRIDGED CATALOGUE. Students' Preparatory Instructor and Guide, OR THE ART OF LEARNING TO CUT AND SUCCEED IN BUSINESS, An Invaluable Acquisition to all Intending Students. Containing Complete Directions for Self ■ Tuition. By JOHN WILLIAMSON, Editor of " The Tailor and Cutter." SEVENTH EDITION. »»»■»»■■■« HHM 1 MHMI So frequently do Students arrive at our office, with little or no knowledge whatever of the career upon which they have resolved to enter — making the difficulties which have to be overcome so much the greater— that it has many times occurred to us to prepare a Treatise embodying a general outline of a Cutter's career, for the special use of intending Students, so that they may be able to form some idea of the career upon which they anticipate entering. No work on cutting was ever more popular, one edition after another beins: sold out in quick succession. SYLLABUS OF This Treatise also contains directions whereby the in- tending Student (unassisted) may undergo a course of instruction and practice, preparatory to his placing him- self in the hands of a competent teacher, and which will greatly facilitate his progress and future advancement Directions for Self Tuition are also added, where- by those who have time and opportunity, and possess the necessary powers of self application to acquire the Art of Cutting by self-tuition, are directed to the means within their reach whereby they may do so. CONTENTS Introduction. PitEr-iMiNARY Work. The Art of Using the Chalk. First Lesson: GiviDg infetructious in draughting. Illustrated by a diagram. To Drattght by System. Illastrated by a diagram. The Method of Cutting : Breast Mexbure and Admeasurement systems explained, Admeasurement : Illustrated by two plates of figures and diagrams. Systems Judged by Results. Scientific and Mechanical Cutting. Cutting by Blocks. Adapting Blocks to Different Styles of Garments. Illustrated. Also to Different Forms of Men. Illus- trated. The Cutter's Judgment. The Art of Trying On. The Use of Graduated Tapes Explained. Direction for Self-Tuition. Giving p»r- ticalars as to the means available and order of procedure. Success in Business. Some ot thetnna sary qualifications. Necessary Objects of Study. The Cutter an Artist. The Need of Enterprise. Energy Misdirected. How Stulz made his Fortune. The Prince and his Tailor. Conclusion, and their respective merits discussed. PRICE ONE SHILLING, well worth 5s. to any intending Student. THREE MONTHS AT THE Tailor & Cntter Academy Prepared Specially for Intend- ing Students. BY AN EX - STUDENT. This treatise is a simple untarnished record of an ex-student's observation, experience and acquirements, during the course of tuition at our Academy. Besides being an excellent forecast to any intending Student— or anyone indeed who purposes acquiring the Art of Cutting under any teacher or circumstances— it contains much on the Art of Cutting of considerable practical value to any cu tter— even to many of mature experience. The Tailor and Cutter Cutting Class, Being a Series of Easy Lessons ON THE Elementary Principles of Cutting. These Lessons have been specially prepared as a first step for young aspirants acquiring the Art of Catting. To the young and uninitiated, works on cutting at first sight, appear extremely vague and complex, and many young men are doubtless prevented ac