I « 8 "a .. • STBRLl N G ANDFRANCINE C1JUUC ART INSTITUTE LIBRART MrftB \ ***»****■• >«. !■ .' I ■ I I " L .,I. I I I H '!' warn U& THE .■-•C-*^-"H WEAVER'S ASSISTANT EXPLAINING [N A PAMILIAR MANNER, THE FlUsT PRINCIPLES i)i THE ART OF WEAVING, CONTAINING UPWARDS OF EIGHTY DIFFERENT DRAFTS A I AMONG WHICH ARE COMPRISED, MANY CURIOUS AND FIGURED DRAFTS^ BOTH OF DIAPERS AND COVERLETS I TO WHICH IS ADDED, Observations on Draft Painting. WITH AN APPENDIX, CONTAINING SEVERAL USEFUL TABLES. BY PHILO BLAKEMAN. fti BRIDGEPORT: PRINTED BY N. £. SKINNER. 1818, NK^TbH i DISTRICT OF CONNECTICUT, m. 5k /-^^ik BE lt Remembered, That on the tenth day of April, v t c vT ' n tne f° rt y* secon d year of the Independence of the si*. *. > united States of America, PHILO 3LAKEMAN ot the said District, hath deposited in this office the title t)f a Book, the right whereof he claims as Author, in the words fol- lowing, to wit : The Weaver's Assistant; explaining in a familiar manner, the first principles of the Art of Weaving, containing upwards of eighty different drafts ; among which ate comprised, many curious and fi- gured drafts, both of Diapers and Coverlets : to which is added, Ob- servations on Draft Painting. By PHILO BLAKEMAN. In conformity to the Act cf the Congress of the United States, entitled, •' An Act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of Maps, Charts and Books, to the authors and proprie- tors of such Copies, during the time therein mentioned. R. I. INGERSOLL, Clerk itf the District of Connecticut. A true copy of Record, examined and sealed by me, R. I. INGERSOLL, Clerk of the District of Connectiwt. > PREFACE. THE WEAVER'S TRADE, owing to rarious causes} remained in ancient years, in rather a low state of reputation, but has since gradually been gaining ground, and within a few years past, it has risen in point of reputation, very rapidly, until it has now arrived to an exalted pitch, and claims a high rank among the most honourable of the Manufacturing Arts* As the principle of independence seems happily rising in the breasts of true Americans, this trade in a peculiar manner, keeps pace with it ; and it may positively be asserted, that the knowledge of this useful branch of our Manufactures, is now at a higher state of perfection than has ever been known in this country, and is still increasing. It is confidently be- lieved that few, if any part of the most curious productions of the Old Countries, in this art, is beyond the knowledge of the American Weaver. It seems then a matter of no little surprise, that an art as useful as any branch of American Manufactures, should have remained so long, without any guide or help, facilitating the acquirement of it ; but as no such work is extant, or has ever appeared in this country *, the propriety of a work of this kind, particularly at the present period, has been very forci- bly suggested to the mind of the Author ; more especially on account of the repeated applications he has met with, from different persons, for instructions in this art, and for drafts of different kinds ; and by a remarkable fact, that sin- gle drafts are now selling for, from three to five dollars, and some even as high as ten dollar a. It was the intention of the Author when he first set about composing this work, to have extended it beyond its present size, and to have embraced the most curious production of figured work he could meet with ; but he soon found that no adequate description of these could be given without engrav* * From the repeated inquiries of the Author among the most re- spectable Booksellers in diff rent places, and his frequent perns-. I* of different catalogues^ he is convinced, fee is warranted in this *,•- ssrtion, . --. \ iV PREFACE. Jngs ; which would greatly enhance the expence of the work* without increasing its utility. This work is therefore particularly calculated to explain in as clear a manner as possible, the first principles of the art ©f weaving, and to such an extent, as is deemed expedient for a weaver, whose main object is, the rendering; of his labour in this business, profitable. The work therefore, is believed to embrace every principle, relating to this art, as far as would be advantageous. It contains, as may be seen % the title-page, upwards of eighty different drafts, comprising mostly every handsome work in diapers and coverlets, that are generally met with, and many entirely original \ together, with Observations on Draft Painting i the knowledge of which is very essential to every weaver. To which is annexed, an Appendix, contain- ing several useful Tables, which cannot fail of proving very beneficial, and highly convenient to every weaver. Of the merits of the work, the Author presumes not to speak. It may be observed, however, that on these alone, the work relies fur success and patronage. No pains have there- fore been taken in procuring subscriptions ; neither has any application been made for the attainment of recommends* tions. The pains and labour of placing in form so many different drafts, without any kind of hel/is y has been very considerable ; and should there be found inaccuracies in the work, (notwith- standing the care that has been taken to prevent it,) it is hoped, and confidently expected, they will be overlooked by the generous reader. It is, however, the candid opinion of the Author, that but few, if any, exist. To a judicious and enlightened Public, the work is humbly and cheerfully submitted. If found of sufficient merit, to en- sure the approbation of the Public, the Author will not look upon the labour and expense" he has bestowed upon it, with regret. THE AUTHOR. ( ( THE WEAVER'S ASSISTANT 1 AS the terms made use of by weavers are various, and fre- quently differ ; in order to be perfectly understoood, it seems requisite to give an explanation of the terms made use of, in this work, Geer— - That through which the warp is drawn, in order to prepare it for the reed. This is sometimes called harnesss. Heddles — The twine through which the warp is drawn, frequently called (but improperly) hevcls. Shafts— The pieces of wood on which the heddles are placed. Reed — That which the warp is last drawn through ; used for beating the fillen, called by some, slay. Splits — The separate pieces of cane or steel, of which the reed is made, sometimes called reeds, or dents. Shades — The part of a geer, composed of shafts and hed- dles, called also, leaves, wings, or shafts. Lams — The pieces of wood on which the cords suspended from the geers, are generally fastened, sometimes called spring -shafts. Treadels — The pieces of timber on which the feet are placed to perform the treading. Sfielt variously. Warp— The threads of yarn in the loom which the fillen crosses. Sometimes called (but improperly) web ; and some- times chain, or string. Fillen— The threads which are wove in crossing the warp, sometimes called waft, (but improperly,) and some- times properly enough, woof Twill— A certain rise of threads in cloth, sometim called (but very improperly) trill, and sometimes prop wale. J Power— Any number of shades operating so as? to form a spot or figure; rightly enough termed, division. ] Doubler-— Two threads in the warp wotk^g together without any thread in the fillen crossing them; frequently termed a fiat. 1 * 6 WEAVER'S ASSISTANT* B the beginning of a draft. E. ;he ending of a draft. C. the centre, or middle spot of a draft. R. S. and s. signifies in drawing, you must draw from the beginning of your draft to S. and then draw oyer again from R. to s. and then begin again at the beginning. Placed over or under any part of a draft, contains remarks or explanations, which has immediate re- ference to the draft as far as they extend. Single Bar, is placed between the number of threads drawn on different fioivers* [I Double Bar, ends some particular spot or figure in a draft. Represent the shades, on which the warp is drawn j -w I ■ I — —.■■■■■I — ™ 1 and figures placed thus, % denote the manner of draw- ing the warp, viz.: the 1, signifying one thread drawn first on the second shade, and figure 2, denoting the second thread drawn on the first shade, and so of any greater number. Mte. That in numbering the shades, we always begin at the nearest shade as we sit in the loom, calling it the first shade ; the next to it the second, and so on, let the num- ber be ever so great. When we are speaking only of four shades, and occasionally speak of two collectively — if of the first and second, we say the two near shades ; if of the second and third, we say the two middle ; if of the third and fourth, we say the two far j and if of the first and fourth, the ex- tremes, or outside and inside shades. In speaking of the treadels, we always begin to number at the right hand when in the loom ; calling the right treadel the first, the next to it the second, &c. The character [0] placed in the spaces, represents the ^cording on the treadels, and always represents the shade im- \mediately below which it is placed. Thus on four shades, denoting two cords on your first treadel, one attached to your fourth shade, and one to your third shade ; and two cords likewise on your second trea- del, one attached to the 2d shade, and one 2 to the first. That part of work which is performed by raising one-hali - o — WEAVER S ASSISTANT* i of the work, and {that every other thread as drawn) through which the fiilcn passes, is called plane cloth ; and may be wrought on any number of shades, above one. That which raises two threads together, two up and two down, makes, what is called, doublet^ or flats / and may also be performed on any number of shades, above one. That which is wrought on three shades, by a wale, is called a three leaf twill, whether two-thirds are up and one down, or two-thirds down and one up. That which is wrought on four shades, whether 3-4ths, one-half, or one-fourth is up ? is called a four leaf twill ; if one-half is up, it is called kersey, or kerseymere ; if one- fourth, or three-fourths, it is called bed-ticking, ticking, or pernelL A work which the filler* passes over or under a number of threads continually, and by that means makes a figure, or spot, is generally termed floating-work. A representation of a Draft as Drawn for Plane Cloth, on tw@ Leaves, I 1 2 2 j 1 1 fcXJ bt. a G *** £ 5m ea o S-a U Q JVbte. Throughout all this work? drafts are drawn from the right hand to the left ; a method which most weavers approve. A representation of a Work as Drawn on four Leaves* 1 But this method of treading regu- lar, (that is) beginning at the right hand, and treading towards the left, as the figures stand under the shades, subjects us to the inconvenience oK 4 3 2 1 treading cross-legged, or treading twice with one foot, which is called regular treading ; jo4e- 2 3 4 medy which, we hang the work so as to tread from the right hand and from the left in towards the middle, which is called right and left cording, and right and left treading ; the work will thea stand thus : — J _— a WEAVERS ASSISTANT. Having made these explanations, we now proceed to the description of various kinds of drafts. First, we will give the different methods of operation oo three Leaves* 1 o! 1 o | 2 o ! ' — 1 1 [0 3 1 5th M. I reg. 4ch M. reg. 3d M. reg. 2d M. reg. 2 3 1 2dM. right & kft. DOUBLE C0RD1JVGS. DRAFT OF FOUR LEAVE®. 3 2 1 1st me- thod, regular 00 00 00 left. 0;0 o[ o ojo | jo ojo ojo o|o 5th M. reg. 4th M. reg. 3dM, reg. 2dM. reg. 2 3 I 1st M. right & left. 3 2 1 1st M. reg. i ! 1 1 3 1 1 2 3 4 2 3 B. 4 1 13 4 1 2 3 3 4 ; l 2 4 2 3 3 1 2 4 1 2 3 2 4 { 2 4 4 1 1 2 3 4 |10M 9 M 8M7M 6 M 5 M 4 M 3 M| 2 Mjl Mj 3 4 3 1 2 14 3 4 4 3 1 2 4 3 2 j 2 ] 2 2 1 2 4 3 4 3 4 1 w ! 2 4 3 1 2 113 ^419 M |18 M 17 M|16 M 15 M 14 M|l3 M|12 M 11 M| Note, The four first methods will be found the same, only differing in the beginning ; and from the fifth to the ninth is the same, only the beginning is different. From the ninth to the nineteenth, will be found the various ways of changing the order of drawing, weaver's assistant. I 9 The manner of Cording, agreeable to the above methods of Drawing. 1 1 . | | o;o o | ol o |0 I ° «2b ? PI 1 1° ° 1 i 1 1 fee . 1 _, 4 3 2! r»gle Cording 2 M Cord in right ai 1 1? too o g - — • ~ . ff c o too w .art & ■"-• :S» j_i -d ^ t±S o »— ' P CS »J5 -C MO S 1 too o> jz ■ c *• ** .3 1 CO I r*-*T* 1 . G 1 J « I 1 CO o >n ' ' 1 1 1 | o | | — -'■ — •-*■&. I 10/ t:^ 3 .£?,- O toO *"* to© •*-* o .~ u* y $-» CJ jO too • 1) «.*%*» p t 1 3 c® Method of Performing Plane Cloth, agreeable to the above thods. of Drawing) with Hvo Treadels. & m \ o o ■ 1 [0 —~H . ! U o HS ! > '< / S -O OD ^ i! E f & P 1 i ^ Ui CO to * CO ^-» J CO r-. co ,-. " tn g CO „ ., CO ~ i CO •J£0 -p X H t 1 1 H •: occur through this work, they represent the number of threads drawn on the shades designated by the fi- gures ; beginning first on the shade on which the figure 1 is placed, draw one thread and count as you draw, one, then draw the next thread on the shade designated by the figures 2, 4, or 6, &c. and say two ; then back on the shade on which the 1 stands, and say three, &c. so continuing until you draw the number expressed by the highest figure, which is called the numbering figure ; then take the next bar andrso continue through your draft, 12 WEAVER** ASSISTANT. to d o m ^» "* vH III ~o • ** •^ etho rred *~4 <* P-« "fr H ^f _ r- 1 ^ <<* »-» «* >— < ** • O -* a — -o fH "<* e* ^ - •—« •* <* «* • ■** W-* M O O •-« O o CO o o o ^ ° C* c 3 C3 41 £ S *? 80 o c S-g en ** ° see feJO o «l US ca *0 *■* on «* so j^ ** «• £ O S fc t: » « *o cu ** G 03 S3 CO O *^ V *** fc c g **S ^ O O °» o c5 § •3 ca o *• JZ H w g g m m o ^5 CO to o C v O CO i °- *^ to* o •s b 5 i S S o o • 10 ^ to .o 53 jc» w * i s to S ^5 S3 £ U 1 1 ' • 1 C» CO C* CO CO CO CO "<# T CO GO CO H O o o CO CO CO CO co" o O a o •s Xi a et co Ik • 2 Ps; GO ^ cs a & * 2. 5 CO O* CO CO o -c a on co ft* his i spot ? ■*-• u -4* ^ H to** ^ 5 ^ H3 C « 3 s 5s, CO U i <»> 0| 4| |4| [1.0 4 4j| 4 1 i |o U . |i . ■ - .■ ^-* 2( Cl )sp.| irt. j 16 WEAVERS ASSISTANT 1 I 2 ROYAL BEAUTY. 1 1 % j6;2|6 |2 4 2 | 6|2|6| |2 |4J |2 J2 2 1 U l|i] l|l 1 ! 1 i 1 1 1 1 ! 1 l 1 1 1 1 I! 6 M i 6 l |6 f|6 6l ||6 6| 6 6 \7 sp, |7 sp-j 23sp.| Note. All floating: work. coverlets on four shades, are cord ed as the Irish Delight. 3 BEAUTY, H B 11 111 1 111 1 1 1 i ! 2 l 2 i |2|2i | | 2|2j2 1 i 1 %\2\ |2 2 |J4J4|4 1| | I i|l| |1| l| |1 liL 1 i if i| ijiji| |i] J { i 8|8 \ |2| | 8|8j2|8|8 8J8j2;8J8 | 2 8j8j] 7 s P- [ilsp-l 5 FRIEND'S FANCY 4 SNQJV DROP. DIAMOND. E E S 4 4 4 4 1 1 1 111 !l M | 6| _____ i 1 M IH 4 i 4 i 1 1-iMH ii m\ w 6| 6| 6 |6 B 6 THE FAIR. E 8 2 2 2 8 8 8 _i |i| iJIUiiJi'll LHJUIMilLii 6,66! 6\6\6\ 4! ]6 6 ! 6 1 9 sp. ends full. i i II 1 1 1 1 9 sp. 17spj 9 sp, ii Note. A luile care must be taken when a draft stands full fit the end, as h the case with this, not to draw the work dou- ble ; because tills ends the same as it begins, and if you draw the last 9 spots, (as Is designated by the curtailing figure,) v ""• » . J J n WEAVE-E S ASSISTANT* IT and then turn and draw the same spots as they stand at the beginning, you double the figure, and destroy the beauty of the work. Therefore after you have drawn the draft through, the first spots must be omitted* m a o »— i vO — - « — r— ' r— ' 1 tO — CM —4 —*. C* C* _« —> (N ^ *"* CO 1—4 n C* — i N. 00 ^ #— •» r—t • "# CO "tf — U 1 } ^in — CO tJ» «~« <* ~"i CO «3< « oo — t-H ^ ^ 00 ^ ** - M *»-» "# 13 C CJD « U B « £ £ 4-4 o C0 s 1-t COM a ■*-* £S jQ *•» a vn CO T3 .22 £ c s &4 o ** « fl> c» ♦J when a bo re you be hing mor CO CO o est *-* o .o »«2 2 O -*»• H *S> ^ w •va w • o ^ u O E 9 DOUBLE KINGS. 1 I lllllll B 1 1 | ]2 2 2 2|6 4 |4| 6 2 2|2 jljl I 111! 1 i 1| | |2| |2 2 4 6 4 |6 i 4 ! 1 2 F ^2 i^^HHi 13 weaver's assistant. ?*#£ 'TREADING n ■ •— * -* - •V <* <* CO O 8 o m — CO CM c* CO CM mtmrna.' CO CM CO #•"1 "* "# - »■— "* CO G* ^ o ^ »— 4 ^ "* 1— 1 1— 1 ■^ cm CO rt* <* f— 4 «3» 1—4 ■«* 00 1—+ CO CM' ' CM CO CM CM —4 CO CO CM 5 CN CO o* <•* j - "*• »— * ,— CM CO ^ m-K P-* «* -f - •— * Tp ^ — Ml «* «*~- mmm. WMi w n OS Q o m N 1 «-* CO i «~» CO f— » •—* CO cm CO CO CM f—4 CO CM r— • CO CO CM CO CM ■ 1 l _j G* ! i G* •—4 CO G* CM CM ! &0 £3 =» P* " Jrr -- ^^ ''^--- ' 20 WEAVER S ASSISTANT- 15 CHURCH WINDOWS. 1111111 11 p 5 S, I 16 COMPASS WORK. B 4 lb! 10 4 | 4 10 4 | 4 j 4 4 1 1 | 1 [ I 1 | 1 1 i 1 1 10 i0 4 10 4 4 4 4| | 5 S. | B C 11 1 1 I 1 1 1 1 1 4 j |4 | I0| 4 4 •0 4 ! 7 1 | 1 1 1 10 1 I Ml 4 4 1 4 4 1 1*0 4 . i i 10 I !.4 ! 10 10 4 4 4 10 10 1 1 1 I! 4 1 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 mm i E | 5 S 4 4 1 ii ii m m l 1 II 1 4 4 4 ||4 4 4 1 1 • 1! ' 1 i 1 5 S. full ending i 5S | DIAMOND COVERLET. Note. This is every way performed exactly as Diamond Kersey. BIRD'S-EYE COVERLET. 2 4 3 1 4 2 3 1 E B 4 1 o o 2 T 3 4 6 8 7 5\ 2d method.} 6 8 5 7\ 1st method.j WEAVER'S ASSISTANT. 31 THE GERMAN DRAFT. K B 31 4 |4 21. 2. 2 o I 4 4 31 Note. This is a work in small checks for Carpets or Cover- lets ; the warp brown tow or linen ; the fillen black and white ; wove thread and thread, except when the work is changed % you must then weave two threads — say of black. This, may be performed on any even number of shades. w-wGS'C £-S#<& v $$<5> §> ' DIFFERENT FIGURES OF ^JtvSS ON FIVE SHADES. TrmiijnBr — i~ ENGLISH DIAPER. 000 OlOf E I 1 1 10! 1 i B 4J4J5 J5|4j4j|4j4 4| 4|4|4 432 1 9 S.| Abte. It may not be improper to observe, (notwithstanding the draft appears evident,) that one half of the work, namcly r every other thread is drawn on the first shade; and in tread- ing, the fifth treadel which takes down the first shade, is trod every other shoot, by the left foot ; the right foot changing to perform the draft. M^MMPMBl ■=- QQ weaver s assistant- e 1 FANCY DIAPER, 1 1 i v. — ' 1 MM i I II Ml -II 1 I 1 ! ! 1 lj MM 1 1 Ml II 1 1 IM i 1 11 1| 1 1 IM M Mil 1 H Ml I4|4|4 4|4'4|4i4 4 4||4 4|4)4|4|4 4 4 4|4 4|4[4|j'4f4j4| r fret id a S J rou draw. | 5 6, |!U & | 5 S. | Note. All drafts of live shade Diaper afier this method of drawing, are corded on the same plan as the English Diaper draft ; although the cording mey be varied, yet that is ihe standard. A BEAUTIFUL FIGURE. E B 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 4|4 4 4 4 1 1 1 1 4 4 4 1 4 4j4 4 4 4 8 8. A NE W FIG URE. i> A CIRCULAR FIGURE. E C ' B 11 1 11 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 I i i t ! 1 1 | ii 1 1 | M 41,4 1 4|4 2 8 i 1 4 4 1 l ! 1 2|2 4J4 8] I 2 4> 2 i? t. >. 1 *■* ( V. ). i IM * i i ** i 1 I i i i II 1 1 |i -in 5 S. 1 5 b.inr s.|. weaver's assistant. 28 DIMITY FUSTIAN. 1 (] „ 2 1 3 -i*- 4 5 3 2 i Note, This work is composed of linen and cotton warp, and cotton flllen. In warping, you must warp three threads of linen and two of cotton, and draw the linen on the three fur- ther shades, and the cotton on the two near shades. The three linen threads are to be drawn in one split, and the two cotton in another. CALIMANCO — (Erroneously called Callamink.) 1 2 4 5' Note, This work is altogether of worsted. SHAWL DRAFT, i. TOPCASTLE GORDING WITHOUT WEIGHTS* E 000 B I OiO 010 1 } 414 4 4 4! 4 Lower lams. Upper lams. Note. This may be performed without lofi-casile, the cord* ing being the same as five shade Diaper ; hut as has been before observed, when there is an inequality in springi- g ihe work, the toji-castle is preferable. The warp of this work is cotton, undyed; the fillen blue or black, and sometimes ihe • • - -■ '"-, „.-»-•-- ••- m eave.r's assistant. colours are various. In treading t/iis, you first Operate with your second treadel, and then change to your first, and so continue untii you finish your first figure ; then observe the same of the othtr figure, otherwise, should you tread as you draw, you will make square ivork % which is not intended in this draft. SHAWL DRAFT, 2. BORDER. E B 1 1 \ I I* ! ! ] 1 t 1 I u hi 1 ■ 1 1 1 1 11 ' |4 4|4|4]Vj44 44 4 4 4l4 4 i 4J4|4|4 4 4 4 1 \ -. -- w r si >0 e / ts. t \ > Si » en *-• ; g. 1 Weave 3 spots. >o>. BMHflMfllHHfli WEAVERS ASSISTANT. "■ AFFERENT COVERLET DRAFTS ON SIX SHADES. 2 •» u o © ;o ^ CO CO 00 CO <£> 12 "I ! tO >*o [CO CO p— < o o CO CO <# ^ •5 .c .£ .£ U M c ? o> r- S" £ * 3 e s * s *" *> & ~ 2 •§ w o 5 £ a CO CCS « '&»■£: !U C U w f. o 5* ■*= :U 5- >-" CS j, ^ O 35 V to « *» O * J -D i o> £ -' o * o 0) «3 JJ fi» 8 «0 0) •T3 t3 'JJ c ^ *S CO c 0> ■73 ^ « -c tc «5 r? co -C *-> V fc» OJ S-« 1> «J u, H3 P'J3£ ox a st-i _ . ^s c o - u «i «U 4» « ^3 ^ ^2 *C ^J O 1) J . ^ en • 2 ° ° ° « ' J •§ -o c F 5? o «5> to- u a. u ^ c« s* •imi f t» x> > Cu 1> ** r* t— i JG *•* S3 O 8 • • J& o O • » ♦J m-* «J o> W4 C c J3 •— ctf no Cu v w 0) JS V «J *-» be Mrf: a o c « * 9-* ~ G s s s *-» *-; 4> C U5 (-* ft) £l w OJ p. 2 * WEAVER S ASSISTANT, o n ~ CO o H « > « — ^ •«* **•* GS "* .X i— < r* — _< t 00 »«•< 1 CO i i— < "* *~* CO CO -1 ■~" | ^ -* 1—* | — "* -# ^ - 1 1 00 00 <■* 00 J 00 | i r— t *"* - '■ »— « - ♦-4 ^ — ^ r-« •— < •<* Cj_ g ** I J_ 2 g o 1 ^ *S & « m £ eo *. ?s S3 O 4> * o 2 ■»-* «3 ~ oa w « •A -» *u O « § .*_> Co 09 -a *-» tr> O co y •!-* *> J? -c,2 i+ • *o ^ f 00 1—1 00 »■*• _— —« i— * 00 • •PU3 \\T\£ S&MggP T"— iTMYiilfcrTii .--"-' — WEAVERS ASSISTANT. THE LADIES' CHOICE. 1 1 1 1 t 1 s - M* 1 1 M 1 i 1 11 | 1 1 1 Li i I ! | i l« 8 8 8 4 8 8 16 4 4 [16 4 4 | 4 j 1 6 4 j 4 j 1 6| E 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 — i — 1 1 1 1 1 1 [< 1 l 1 1 1 8 '1 4 1 8 8 j 4 8 8 8 4 41 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 JYote. The border to this is the same as the Ladies 9 Fancy, THE MNE SJVOW-BALLS. c 111111 B 1 1 I 1 1 I 1 j 1 1 ' ' ' ■'! 8 8 4 4 4 4 16 4 16 4 4 4 4 8 8 ! 5s 1 1 R | 1 1 — 1 1 1 l 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 12 12 4 12 12 8 8 8 8 12 12 4 12 12 28 WEAVERS ASSISTANT. FLEMISH DIMITY FUSTIAN 1 .0 2 5 6 7 o 1 O - 8 4 4 3 21 Npje. Warp Uto threads of linen arid two of cotton, and slay as plane. S.JTTINET. Regular, 3d meth- od. Regular, round wale, 2d meth 1 ! 2 Of 4 " 5— 1 6 — <\ 6 4 2 5 3 1 1st meth- od. C0TTT0N RIB. 0' 1 | 2 1 1 3 1 4 o! *— — si j2d method, | | Ut met bow j preferred. Note. This, both warp and fUlen, is of cotton dyed black j and drawn four threads in one split, and two in another. •aaaMMI weaver's assistant. DIMITY. 29 1 ! V' i i 1° f | 1 ■ 2 3 4 5 J 1 ) I 6 2 4 « .« 6 5 jthc 1 )d. 1 6 4 2 5 3 1 2d method. '. keg.| I >€•€£>•>;&''-&$€>& FLOATING WORK COVERLET ON EIGHT LEAVES. s 1 1 1 c 1 1 s 1 1 R 1 I ■ III! - 6 |4 4 6 4 4 |6| f§ I 1 1 i — — : i I 1 J I 1 H 1 1 T 1 1 — 1 i -~ 8 |4 8 4 4 4 8 II' 1 I 6 4 4 4 4 6 i 1 i 1 1 1 1 1 i i 1 1 1 |6 4 4|6 J 6 L * 4 4 6 1 1 1 I II * 00 jojo ojo o |o o|o |o| 1 .... |0 Note. The four first treadels are for the draft ; the other two for binding yarn or plane. Tread only one down at once. 3* 30 WEAVERS ASSISTANT. DIAPER COVERLETS ON EIGHT LEAVES. 1. THE HINGE. E 1 I B 2 | 2 2 2 2 j 3 3 | | 3 3 ' 3 1 1° o I 24 8| |24( •I 8 | j | M |i 1| l 1 | | 2 ^2 1 2 | 2 | 2 j jo j o 3 1 3 3 3| j | 1 ° 12 |12 8 |48| 8 [ j 1st method, r Cgl liar . 1 Allof white, or green. red | All of black, j Tread as you draw. | o | o | o t |o| |o o | o o| o o| o |o |o i | | 1 3d methot 1, reeulai v 1 I s Id me tiiod, reg fills ir. j ooo o I I ° I ° 1° l_2_L°L I 10 !0' I I I I o I o I o I j_o 2 4 6 8 7 5 3 1 1st method, right &kft. pith iftethodj regular, j-r -T7>T' WEAVER'S ASSISTANT. Si Note. To these methods of cordings, might be added nu- merous other forms, but not strictly methodical. The above 3 however, are abundantly sufficient. There will be no difficulty in understanding the drawing of this, and similar drafts, if you attend to the form of drawings as is exhibited by the figures on the draft ; it being drawn right through on the fiowers on which the figures are placed, until you complete the number expressed by the lower, or numbering Jig ure. The warp of these coverlets is generally of two colours ; the fiilen likewise is of two colours, but different from the warp. The warp of some, however, are of white, and the filien blue or black. 2. THE CROSS. c c 11111 2 2 1 2 1 i i 2 2 3 3 3 | o 3 8 12 8 | 4 4 1 1 1 I 1 2 2 2 2 2 3 3 3 3 | 3 (20| 20 4 52 4 While. | I 31ue« I Notd In warping, we generally warp one-half of a streak first, that when sewed together, it will make one entire streak, Cording as the Hinge. 3. THE EXPRESS. E 1 1 1 1 B 1 J 1 2 2 2 2 | 2 3 3 3 3 | 4 4 8 12 8 1 I fl |l 1 1 2 2 2 || 2 2 ■ 3 3 | 3 11 | 3 3 .. 4 36| 4 || |12 I 12 1 i ~~ Black. II White. Note, All drafts of this kind, are corded after the manner annexed to the Hinge. 32 weaver's assistant. 4. Til PARTY. £ 1 3 8 8 8 8 Black. White, 8 1 1 2 2 2 | j 1 $ 3 : 3 j ' j S | j 120- 4 ISO}! 8 I ] 1 | ! I j | 1 II 2 2 | 2 | | 2 | 2 | 13 ' 3! 3 | 3 j | 3 ] E 1 5. THE CENTER. B |2 2 *] 2 *-| 2 1 2 l» 3| 3 | 3 3 | 3 3 ||.13 12 4 12 |12 4 4 1 1 1 - 1 1 * |i. I 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 1 j 3 3 3 3 | 3 3 112 4 4 i 1 [12 36 4 36 6. 7WJS SUNFLOWER. c 1 1 2 2 2 2 2 1 3 3 3 3 4 1 24 12 12 24 1 f-1 1 1 1 II* 2 II 2 2 2 II 3 3 II 3 3 o O ||53 52|[ 12 12 12 WEAVER S ASSISTANT* 7. THE JVILDERJVESS. 1 1 1 1 1 1 c 1 1 1 1 9 i 2 2 I : o 2 *'l 2| 2| 2 1 1 3 24 3 3 |s 3f 12 4 1 ^ 1 -w 8 8 * 1 8 24 1 1 1 | 1* i 1 1 n 2 2 2 1 2 .2 I i 2 2 i |.2 1 3 l 3 3 8~ i 1 ! 68 [3 f.3 3| 3 J68 i |s 1! |B |.8 |32| 8 8 1 .... Afcte. The warp of this is all of white, and the filler) blue* 8. LITTLE SUNFLOWER,. II 1111 i 2 2 2. 2 1* 2 1 3 3 1 3 3 | 3 7 3 1 16 8 8 16 4 1 1 4 1 1 r* i i 1 • 1 2 1 9 1 - 2 E2,| 2 2 i 3 3 3 1 13 3 o . |8 |28 1 8 I i 8 i 4 8 White. 1Q. SOLOMON'S TEMPLE. 1 i 1 ! |a 2 2 i *» 1 ° 3 3| | j | i 6 4 l??l 1 | 1 | 1 1 | 1 ! o ! o 1 "** 2 | | 2 j 1 1 I j 2 | 2 2 2| 1 3 .> |J 3 II 12 l 12] |40- 4 |40| The warp wluie. 34 WEAVER'S ASSISTANT. AMASK DIAPER ON EIGHT LEAVES. 1. 7"HE FANCY DRAFT. 111111 ! 2 |2 2 2 | 2 i 2 2 2 3 3 3 j 3 3 1 S ■ •-• - 20 112 i 8 4 |4 8 12 20 M 1 i I 1 1 1 2 2 I 2 2 2 2 2 3 3 3 3 3 3 oni 12 8 /! I Q i ' « i n ^ ___ 4 J o 1-6 ^u .7Vb/ CT yD CO © © © © o ' © © © "o" © ©~ o © © © b~ o © © o 6~ ©_ o" © c ^ © 00 © a; s ^ © ©J ©. 1 © . o q_ '©" © © © "o" © o 9 © © © © 6 © © © © © "©" q_ _ ©_ © © ©" © ©~ q © p ©_ ©~ ©~ © ca * • 2 <-> > o ; 1 : q_ 2 « ■ /-"j © ©J •5: £ ~ k w ■» r^ ^ 4 BAG © C © O © © © © © © © © © © © DRAFT TO WEAVE . *-* .14 » C3 © i2 *> © © i o t " cu ho 3 i ~Q~" © 1 © © © 1 ©_; © ! ©| 1 "& 1 j © © ' *— * • © © , i -a 1 © .© © ' i i © cT • o ; o © ! © c ., ; ojo, |o| ;0 '|0| © © " © © ! ! © © © © © © © Jc ©! © , © © © S3 © © c © c © © © O ! 1 ©~ t~~~ ; © © © 1 $ ~ .at a* ( © X* ,„_ **»« : . WEAVER'S ASSISTANT, •7 ■m *m w o P3 o q ° Esq i 0? <$■ i CO CO CM CM f— , • m • 1 | « SP i 00 1 O 1 — i CO I ./"> t8' . ~ -a I • -• j-. s- T3 !o !C C c O "O . c O £ : i CM c 0" , 1W _ , _ „ U O O O O' cT ctt O §s I O 4) CO O ; o a ! g o o En 1 1 9 CM co 1m" co CO i 1 CM co <£> i 1 1 1 "tf ! - 1 CO i CM !€> €>S4><*^ -€$€*© DIAPER ON TEN LEAVES. DIAMONDS AND HALF DIAMONDS. E 10 10 9 | 9 9 1 1 B 9 I 10 8 | 2 | 2 || 1 | 8 | 2 8 | 8 7 3 | 3 Tl 2 7 i 3 | o| 7\ 7 6 6 6 5 1 4 | 4 || 3 j 6 | 4 1 |5|5| |4|5|5 |5|4|6 " 1 1 S\S 4 | 6 6 | 1 | 4 | 4 3 7 7 || 6 3 |_7 |o .-■- a | 3 | 3 2 8 | 8 7 2 | 8 1° 1 ° 2 | 2 1 9 9 | 8 1 9 1 o| ! I 1 10 10 9 j 10 I Regular. 1 7 times J over, j o I o I 0] oTo I _J Right and left. weaver's assistant. DIAPER ON TWELVE SHADES. o S9 © 2 (> o o ~o~ i 1 4 5 *l __ 6 , , 6 7 8 -= — J) 9 ■JM.. , . !■„!— -.—-. .■ , r , .. 10 ■■■ 1 1 > -II .I'll - ■ o" 10- 11 (') 1 12 _ J __... _- Note. This is a square spot, apd a damask flourish. Tread as you draw. £ !1 12 5 II B 11 I 1 10 1 ll| 4 1 4 i 4 1 10| i 1 so 1*1 1 ° 1 1 o ! 2 9 2 10 3 | 2 O 2 | 3 2 9 2 | 9 3 8 3 9 2 3 2 3| 2 3 8 3 8 4 i f 5 ! T 4 3 T 5 4 4 5 7 6 4 5 8 y i 4- 1 4 t 1 4 I 4 7 4 7 1 5 4 1 5 5 5 6 5 6 *\ 6 7 5 4 6 7 6 5 — 5 6 5 | 7 4 7 i 4 8! 2|3|2 2 3 | 8 3 8 4 3 8 j 3 9 ! 3 2 o 2 3 2 9 2 9 3 j-2 9 2 10] 4 1 4 1 4 1 JO i 10 2 1 i l ]0 ! Mj . • — - 5 5 1 1 11 l i | hi! i 40 weave&'s Assistant, — 1' o _I.?.U_ o~ o| f. 1 |o - — r .1 — i .»>■■..■ o | |0 — p 0~ r-< o r- < c CO o CM CM CO b- to tO b- O CM 1 10 1 10 1 11 [2 1 ! >' " •— I b- b- CO r— < co CO 17 CO CM CO : &> «* *0 w « a> 00 b- WD *0 b» CO CM oc cr> o cm CO <0 to »— « ' cm 'co b- co CO CM «— 1 p — *! ^ o o 1— « « c Cft .00 b- CO CM o p O O o o o c o o o o o o o o o c o o c o p o 1 o o o o o o o p p o o i 1 o o \2 o p \o o o o o o o o c oj o o o O b® IB t> s • w &» 5 "O *£Z r* <* O w >* • »•* _ o?> «S> *% oj> J- B •> f*- ** as &H n3 P O £»> m 03 T? re? O g""i O CJ a C PS c a, c 93 3 as C3 G • 1-* tft V 00 G _jgfl & »o T3 * -vJ e WEAVER S ASSISTANT. «— < :m Uo <* 00 co oo *o 'vo 1 b- 00 00 0> c ■ o r— ( 6"" CM Oj CM Cft CM CO co O* CM — ( WW >* mm* IM *>"""J CM ....... .1. . 1 CO *o , to r— * CM o CO *o vo j b- *0 CO b- b- CO 00 CO CO b- I o <— * c CM CM CM o~ o~ «~4 o~ 10 vo ^ 1 b- <£>! I o <* CM CM CO 00 CO i •<* J vo 1 — b- vO ■"* CO _ >0 *o CO cm CO CM CM CO «j VO — V3 CM - in 1 , — CO <«gt »n ■ ■'■'■■ 1 «J± CM —* i o 1 en CO CO b- b- b- »o vo vo VO lO * CM en in ^ CM -~' I o — 1 ,™ C7> CO vo o »n uv \*$ o" CM !cm CO "=5* b~ 00 : fMWjl | CO b- ;co ^ | 00 b- !v^_ 1 rt^ *>• J* CM Q> CM co CM o <—* »n o o O o" CK»4 #—4 VO vO ! vo 1 ^ |"«0 «— c^ ; co , ^ b- CO __ __ —— . i;* ^ CO CM CO CM CO CM o /-> o~ j i 1 i 1 ! r "$ "* j i /t~ CO CM CO IO IP <* q_ o" o o o • i 1 | o O |c o .— I o 1 io ! c o C O ■© 1 1 1 c o o o 1 o j ' O iC C o o ■ [O — O © o o o o c 1 1 c O o _©_ o o o"o ~ " o 1 O ! !C | o_j O ! © ! o io I 1 o i O IO o i ! 1 ' o 1°. o IO J — Bll .2 u C3 T3 C ca <^ -a O rs 0!$ «^ H o o fca en ■»■-=. >< 'HT 42 weaver's assistant, THE BLAZING STAR. 8 B 1 3 2 2 2 2 2 2 | 3 3 3 | | 3 1*1 ■s. I M 1* 8 |12 |20 32 1 \*\* 1 |3|6| L 1 2 L 1 l 2 • 1 1 1 | 2 2 | , "t- ! 2. 7 3| 3 1 8 es. 5 tun es | 5{\ m. |4tim. 1 ojo I 3 1 4 1° j 2 2 3 o|o| |o 0| II 3 | 2 1 ojo 4 1 1 1 |0 4 5 |o; 1° o|o 1 3 1 J 1 4 |0| | jojo 0|0 1 2 2 3 1 3 J 1*1 olo . 1 1 0|0|0 o| 1 1 1 4 1 OiOlOiO 010 1010 0100 OOlOiO 5 times, || 5 times. Note. This is a very handsome figure, and a damask- flour* ish. w 44 WEAVER S ASSISTANT, DIAPER ON SIXTEEN SHADES. 00000 16 7 • B 15 1 ojojoojo 0| 1 !5|| 6 1 1 I i Mi IH 3 I OlO 0,0 JO 2 ji4j| 5 2 |13| 3 ; 1 > 0|0 JO] j 3 13 4 3 12 4 •1 o ojo o;o °l 1° 4 |12 3 | 4 || 11 5 1 olo 1 0| t! ^ 111 | 2 | 5 | 10|6 0i0;0j ! | o|of i no oi I 6 10| 1 6 9 | 7 1 oi I 00 7 |9 | \7 8 8 1? *~ O'O 1 OJOJO 7 8 j 8 1 * |0| |ojo ) 1 6 9 7 | 6 10 i |0 |0|0 ojo j 2 \ 5 10 6 5 11 I ~~ I |o| io jo |o;o|o OJO 3 4 (j 11 5 (j 1 1.4 J 1 2 |0 |0 |0| OlOjOjO 0| 4 3 j!i2j 4 | j j 3 jl.3 1 r jo 1 |o| o ololojo j 5 2 M13J 3 j 2 [U 1 |0j |0| | 0|0 0(0,0 ! JO 6 1 14| 2 1 \TS 1 1 Oi OlOlOJOlO 1 1 1 II 7 15 1 16 i J6 times. |4rin> ||6tim 4 tun. Note. This is a fine large conspicuous figure. DRAFT TO WEAVE A BAG WHOLE, IRISH STITCH. 10 IPI !°i 1°1 \ \ lol 1 13 lol 01 10 10 15 U I |ol |o| |o| jOj l ! |o| jo^o|o|o|Oj !0 OOiOiO 00 Oi Ojo OjOjOjO Oj0;0!0j0 7 3 10 | 2 14 (0 0! 0i0:0 0|0 ;0i0|0 16! 12 o ( o oioioloioi oioioi ooio 8 Regular. Take up. Note,. This may be performed with eight treadels by dou- ble treading, which is intended wuh some difficulty. This method is therefore preferred. weaver's assistant. 45 i. DOUBLE CARPET COVERLETS ON* SIXTEEN SHADES. 1 1 1 c I 1 B 1 1! 3 1 3 "3 || 3 || 3 3 1 1 2j|2 1*11 2 II 2 | 2 1 1 48 l«l l«ll 1 8 || 8 48 1 II 1 M II' till - 1 1 II II 3 II 3 O 3 3 — * — ' — - - " II 2 8 1 |2 2 2 1 2 1 1 | 3 II 80 80|| 8 8 | II 2 II — ; — r «ll II II 1! II II II II II II II II II II 1 1 II | 1 II i «s. I 6S. R. 1 1 1 II 3 3 II 1 2 2 II ■ II 8 8 || II U II I i 1 1 II 3| || t II |* II 1 I '8 1 1 1 1 1 3 3 ■' 3 3| 1 : II 3 2 2 2 II ! II 2 2. 48 8 48 | ||48 J/8 1 1 I 1 1 1 1 ■>■■'"' 3 3 II 3 1 2 — 2 48 II 1 . 2 48 2 1 48 1 1 48 4* | 7S. | 4(5 weaver's assistant. BORDER. E B 1 1 i 3| 2 2 8 8 . i I 1 1 ■ 1 3 | 3 2 J | 2 1* 1 12 i *l 16 l» 1 1 1 1 3 3 2 3 2 - — 3 2 1 2| *'] 8 8 8 <" 1 3 1 3 1 | 3 1 2 2 2 8 16 8 o ! 1 ! 1° °i jo I i 6 | i o i 1 — ■ | | LP 1° 1 1 ° o o.| |0 Tak e u p- WEAVER S ASSISTANT. 4r 2. DOUBLE CARPET COVERLET OJST SIXTEEN SHADES. R b 1 1 2 16 3 2 16] 1 O 16 8 8 161 8 8 8 8 32 16 32 32 16 16 16 3 3 i 2 2 64 |64 1 1 - 1 1 3 3 ! i 1 *.\ |2| |2 1 2 I6j | 8 1 16 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 3 3 3 3 o O 3 2 2 2 2 2 2 |16 8 8 8 8 8 1 1 1 1 1 i 3 3 3 |2 1*1 (16| 2| |2 |J6 2 16 1 [32 16 S s I I 1 1 1 <• OBSERVATIONS ON DRAFT PAINTING.. DRAFT PAINTING, is the art of delineating the whole of a draft, representing the whole figure, exactly as it will ap- pear when wove; and is generally drawn first, miniature!/ with a pencil on a slate, and then taken off more conspicu- ously on paper with a hair pencil, or pen. The Eule for performing it, for floating work coverlets^ is as .ollows : First, cast your eye along the draft, and observe the high- est number, designated by the numbering figure in the draft ; which in floating work coverlets, never ought to exceed ten. Then (if you have not a scale and dividers by you,) take any convenient distance, (generally less than an inch,) and divide it into as many equal parts, as the highest numbering figure denotes. Then take from your guage, or scale the distance of as many of those parts, as is contained in number in the first bar of your draft, beginning at the right hand, and draw a line, at equal distance, (from a line previously drawn,) at full length, across the sheet or slate, carefully observing on which shades the figures are placed ;— -if on the first and second, place the letter N (signifying near shades) between your lines, both at the bottom and top : then take the next bar, and observe the highest numbering figure in that like- wise, and take the distance from your guage, drawing ano- ther line parallel to your last, equal to the distance taken, observing on which shades the figures in this bar are placed. If on the second and third, place the letter M between the two last lines, signifying middle shades— follow this rule through your draft, placing the letter F for the third and fourth shades, 5 _**"> 50 DRAFT PAINTING. and the letter E for the first and fourth, taking every ban one after another, until you finish your draft. Having gone through your draft, and taken every distance, as expressed by the highest figure in each bar, turn your pa- per, and cross every line in exactly the same manner as you proceeded the first time over, placing the letters N, M, F, and E, as they occur, occasionally, as before. Having thus delineated your draft, your next step is to paint it. To per- form which, you must observe the letters that is placed be- tween the two upper lines on your paper. If the letter N fol- low across the two lines beginning at your right hand, till every square or check wherever you find the letter N placed. Then take the next lines, and fill every square, according to the letter placed at the ends of the line, and so continue through the whole of your delineation, and you will have the exact figure, as the draft will make when wove. Note. By attending to this rule, many diaper drafts may fee painted. r^v* 1 ** ■ APPENDIX, A TABLE,, ?■ EXHIBITING AT ONE VIEW, The number of Yards, any number of Runs from 5 to 60, will' warfi to every even number of Beers, from 14 to EXPLANATION OF THE TABLE. THE left hand column of each page, contains the number of Runs, which, for conveniency, is continued on the three first pages of the Table, as high as 32 ; and the other pages continues the Table, from 33 to 60 Runs. The number of Beers is expressed at the head of each column. EXAMPLES. How many Yards will 20 Runs warp to 30 Beers? — Look along down your left hand column until you come to 20 ; then follow the line across the page, until you come into the yp and down column, where stands at the top the numWr of Beers you seek, namely, 30 ; and we find 25 yards, arid 12 Nots over. Again, suppose we would know how many Yards 35 Runs will warp to 40 Beers. Look 35 on the page, in the left hand column as before ; then run across till you- come into the co- lumn, at the head of which stands 40, and you have 33 yards and 7 nots over* '■«•* 52 APPENDIX. Beers Beers Beers Beers. Beers\ Beers, . Beers, Beers Beers* 14 * 16 18 20 22 24 ! 26 28 30 Co • 3 «0 * 1 • Co • 8-' • • Co • 8- • CO 0» 1 CO • a 1 • Co p. * Co 5*. .°° «0 • 5 13 2 11 6 10 5| 9 1 8 8 8 7 5 6 13 6 7 6 16 14 1 12 6 11 4 10 5 9 7 8 12 8 4 7 11 7 18 5 16 4 14 713 3 12 2 11 2 10 5 9 9 9 8 21 2 18 7 16 815 3!!S 10 12 10 11 11 U 5 9 24 21 1 18 917 1! 15 7 14 5 ; 3 4 f2 6 11 9 10 26 5 23 4 21 19 0|17 4 16 14 11 13 H 12 14 11 29 2 25 7 23 120 1019 1 17 7 16 4 >5 2 1 4 3 12 32 28 2 25 222 9^20 10 19 2 17 10 16 8 15 7 J3 34 5 30 5 27 324 822 7 20 10 19 17 13 16 12 14 37 2 32 8 29 4'26 724 4 22 5 20 10 19 4 18 1 15 40 35 2 31 5 28 626 i 1 24 22 20 10 19 5 16 42 5 37 5 33 6 30 5 27 9 25 723 9 22 1 20 10 17 45 2 40 35 732 4 29 6 27 2 25 5 23 6 21 14 18 48 42 3 37 834 3 31 3 28 10 ,26 9 24 12 23 3 19 50 5 44 6 40 036 2 3$ 30 5 28 2 26 3 24 8 20 53 2 47 42 1 38 1 34 9 32 |29 8 27 8 25 12 21 56 49 3 44 240 36 6 33 7 31 1 28 14 27 1 22 58 61 5 2 51 54 6 1 46 341 48 443 9 8 38 40 35 2 10 32 34 8 1 30 5 31 10 28 6 23 36 29 10 24 64 i56H4 50 5J45 7 41 8 38 5 35 7 '|33 1 30 15 25 66 558 7 52 6 I 47 6 43 5 40 37 0|34 32 4 26 69 2 61 1 54 7 49 5 45 2 41 7 38 735 12 1 33 8 27 72 063 4 56 8 51 4 46 11 43 2 40 037 2 34 13 28.74 565 7 58 9 53 3 48" 8 44 1C 41 6,38 9 1 36 2 2977 268 S 161 G »55 2 50 5 46 5 42 1340 C • 37 $ SO 80 0,70 * 163 1 57 1 52 9 48 C ► 44 6 41 5 ► 38 ll 31 82 5J72 e \ 65 i 1 59 \[60 C 53 lc ► 49 7 '45 12^42 11 40 y* >£$ * >175 c i\67 : 1C 55 7 51 S !|47 * >|44 % *|4 1 4 APPENDIX, Beers.\Beers. 32 Co 5 6 34 * S 5 £ ** «vv "t «>k So C5 CD • • • Beers, 36 Beers 38 ^ ^ * £> "* ^ ** ^ ?. .* a, «o 30 ©3 • Beet's. Beers. Beers. 44 40 42 Beers. 46 53 Beers, 48 N :> N ^ w ©» ft <\* -^ «•*. "1 w ^ Co ft. S3 0© Cq * jm ■■■■M 54 V APPENDIX, Seer* Beers. 1 Beers \ t Beers Beers.\Beers. IS* 50 52 54 56 58 60 2* ^ a 0* 3 ^ Co m ~5 • 3 22 • Co • Co • 1 ** Co • 3 16 3 13 3 10 3 7 3 4 6 4 16 4 8 4 4 4 3 27 3 24 7 5 10 5 4 24 4 20 4 16 4 12 8 6 4 5 20 5 15 5 10 5 5 5 9 6 24 6 12 6 6 6 5 25 5 20 10 7 18 7 4 6 26 6 20 6 14' 6 8 H 8 12 7 24 7 17 7 10 7 3 6 28 12 9 6 8 16 8 8 8 7 23 7 16 13 io 9 8 8 28 8 20 8 12 8 4 14 10 20 10 9 19 9 10 9 1 8 24 15 ll U 10 20 10 10 10 9 21 9 12 16 12 8 11 12 11 1 10 20 10 10 10 17 13 2 12 4 11 21 11 10 10 30 10 20 18 13 22 12 24 12 12 12 11 19 11 8 19 14 16 13 16 13 3 12 20 12 8 U 28 20 15 10 14 8 13 23 13 10 12 28 12 16 21 16 4 15 c .'14 14 14 13 17 13 4 22 16 24 15 2c Il5 5 14 20 14 6 13 24 23 17 18 1,16 12 HIS 25 15 10 U 26 14 12 24 . 18 12 ! 17 A t ! 16 16 16 C 1 15 15 15 25 19 t m *4 tlir 7 16 2C 1 16 4 5 20 2€ ► 20 o\lS U >18 27 7 *C > 16 24 16 8 27 '20 20 ! ,19 819 IS i 18 C ) 17 15 ! 16 28 2? {21 1420 20 S >18 2C ) !8 2 ! 17 16 2 C . )22 i 120 2020 C ) 19 K ) 18 22 S 18 4 3023 ! m\ 12;20 2c >20 C ) 19 11 18 24 3123 2! 2 ! j22 4'21 ll I 20 2' >20 C ) 19 12 3! 224 1< 5 22 2 4<22 i M21 i< )20 2( 1 _ . )|20 ■■ APPENDIX, Beers. \Beers 55 Beers,\Beers. HUM 53 APPENDIX. Beers Beers [Beers: Beers. Beers 5976 60177 2 6 70 10(66 12 ! 63 -__^_ APPENDIX. Beers Beers Beers Beers /?f f r« Be ers. Beers, 48 50 52. 54 56 58 60 1 • o* Co • 2* ^ -0 s 1 i • Co • 3* a. 5 • Co 1: CO • 2* CO • 3 ^ V3 S3 26 to 25 10 23 16 22 22 22 21 9 20 20 34 27 5 26 4 24 8 13 22 20 21 29 21 8 35 28 26 24 25 24 4 23 10 22 18 21 28 36 28 20 27 18 25 20 24 24 24 23 7 22 16 37 29 15 28 12 26 12 25 15 24 20 23 27 23 4 38 30 10 29 6 27 4 26 6 25 10 24 16 23 24 39 31 5 30 27 24 26 26 26 25 5 24 12 4C 32 30 20 28 16 27 17 26 20 25 Ok 25 41 32 20 31 14 29 8 28 8 27 10 26 14 25 20 42 33 15 32 8 30 28 28 28 27 o 26 8 43 34 10 33 2 30 20 29 19 28 20 27 23 26 28 44 5 33 22 31 12 30 10 29 K 28 12 27 16 45 36 34 16 32 4 31 1 30 29 1 28 4 46 36 20 35 10 32 24 31 21 30 20 29 O 1 28- 24 47 37 15 36 4 33 16 32 J 2 31 10 30 10 29 12 48 38 10 36 24 34 8 33 rt r> (T) 30 31 30 49 39 5 37 18 35 33 2332 20 31 19 30 20 50 40 38 12 35 20 34 1433 10 32 8 31 8 51 40 20 39 6 36 12 35 534 32 28 31 28 52 41 15 40 37 4 35 2534 20 33 17 32 16 53 42 10 40 So 37 24 36 1635 1 10 34 6 33 4 54 43 5 41 14 38 16 37 7,36 34 26! 33 24 55 44 42 8 39 8 37 27 36 20 35 15 34 12 5 6 44 20 43 2J40 38 18 37 10 36 4 35 5745 15 43 22 40 20 39 9 33 36 24 35 20 5846 10 4.4 1.6 41 12 40 38 20 37 13 36 8 5947 5 45 10 42 4 40 20 39 10 38 2 36 28 60 1 48 46 4, 42 24 41 n 40 38 22 37 I6u ST ■■■■ 58 APPENDIX, We may observe, that respecting the exact number of Nots required, to warp a Yard, to different numbers of Beers, a diversity of opinions exist among weavers ; so that hardly any two agree together about it. And, indeed, this is not to be wondered at, when we consider, that the length of a piece, is materially affected, merely by the difference of weaving 5 for the same length of chain, if wove thin and slightly, and strained tight when weaving, will overgo considerably in length, what it would when wove firm and solid, and with a proper degree of tenseness. Besides, there is much varia- tion in yarn, some will shrink considerable, whilst others will retain nearly its net length, after it is wove into cloth. These circumstances are not sufficiently attended to by weavers in general, and by many entirely overlooked. Now, were it not for these considerations, (particularly the latter,) we might, without any difficulty, fix on a standard from which there would be no variation ; but as the case now stands, and as we have these difficulties to encounter, (besides others which might be mentioned,) we must, in some measure, have re- course to experience and observation, to assist us, in bringing the matter to a sufficient degree of exactness. It is necessa- ry, however, that we should have proper data, from whence to make our calculation on this matter, and to found our ta- bles. The course of many years practice, has convinced the Author, that the following rule will be found to be, perhaps, as exact, if not more so, than any other. THE RULE, To determine how many Mts will warfi a Yard, to any number of Beers. Halve the number of Beers, and call them Nots ; to which add as many threads as there are Beers. EXAMPLE. Let 40 Beers be the number. Then say, one half of 40 is 20 ; to which add 40, calling it threads, which makes one Not ; which, added to 20, makes 21 Nots per Yard for 40 Beers \ and so in like manner, for any other number. ■■■ mm APPENDIX, 59 In the formation of the preceding Table, this rule has been nearly adhered to, yet not invariably ; for in several instances where there were only a few threads variation in the ratio from a half, or whole Not, no particular account was taken in the casting of the odd threads, which would affect the work but in a very small degree, and perhaps have added no- thing to the accuracy of it. The amount is set down to the nearest full Not ; and it may be observed, that in order that the above rule may hold good, every thread ought to measure six feet and two inches, which is the circumference of reels in general ; but some vary, and measure no more than six feet* The above Table may be relied on, as being both correct and accurate. It will prove convenient and useful to every wea- ver, and save him much time, which would necessarily be employed in casting up the account for himself. A 'TABLE, . SHOWING -Jlew many Bouts must be War/ied, to make any even number of Beers r from 14 to 60, with, from 10 to 30 Spools. This is a very ready and convenient Table, and will prove very serviceable to the warper. It will save him both time and trouble, which he would of necessity have to bestow, in the computation for himself. There will be no difficulty in understanding this Table, it being on the same plan as the former. But it may be expe- dient to give an EXAMPLE. Suppose we would know how many Bouts we must Warp with 21 Spools to make 36 Beers. Look along down the left hand column, until you find 21 ; then run across the page, until you fall into the column, at the head of which stands the number of Beers you have in view, namely, 36 ; and you will find S2 Bouts and 24 Threads over. APPENDIX. 61 Beers ,\ Beers , Beers Beers Beers Beers Beers. \Beers \Beers> 14 16 18 20 8 Co - — — — — 22 8 "t so f5 Co • 24 8 *t so j£ 1 Co • 26 ! 28 30 i • © ^ 8 *** Co ft • 1 5 s 5 Co 1 co ^ O ?£ 8 -*$ Cg £ * l Co • CO £ 3 8 -i «"». rj, a© ft * 53 4 8 -t *•% ("a Co • *> 1026 12 30 834 4 i j 38 u 41 i6 45 12 |49 8 57 11124 427 14 31 2 34 12 38 41 10 44 20148 851 18 1222 425 828 12 i 31 36 34 20 38 41 4 44 8 47 12 13 20 12 23 J0!26 8 1 t 29 6 32 4 35 238 40 24 A3 22 U 19 021 20|24 12 27 4 29 24 32 1635 8 33 40 20 is 17 22 20 8 ! 22 24 i 25 10 27 26 20 12 ! 32 28 35 14 '38 16 16 20 19 02 i 12 23 24 26 4 28 16 30 28 33 8 35 20 V 15 22 \7 30 20 4 22 12 24 20 26 28 29 2 31 10 33 18 18 14 28 16 32 19 21 4 2.3 8 25 12 27 16 29 20 31 24 is. 14 0i6 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 20 13 1215 8 17 4 19 20 36 22 32 24 28 26 24 28 20 8 J 12 28' i 14 20 16 12 i8 4 19 38 21 30 23 22 25 14 27 6 22 12 4| 13 36 15 24 17 12 19 20 32 22 20 24 8 25 40 23! 11 20 13 10 i4 40 16 24 18 8 19 38 21 22 23 6 24 36 # 24' 11 4 12 32 14 12 15 40 17 20 19 20 28 22 8 23 36 25 10 32 i2 8 13 34 15 10 16 36 18 12 19 38 21 14 22 40 26 1 10 6 ,1 36 13 8 14 32 16 4 17 28 19 20 24 21 49 27 9 46 11 14 12 36 14 4 «5 26 16 48 13 16 19 38 21 6 28 9 2$ 10 48 12 12 13 32 14 52 16 16 tar 36 19 20 20 29 9 »0 10 28 11 46 13 6 14 24 15 42 i7 2 !8 20 J9 38 30 8 52 10 8 11 24 12 40 13 56 6 !5 12 16 28 4 17 44 i 19 I 62 APPENDIX, Beers} Beer* MM JfcPPENDIXt 63 r Z?eer6\| Beers. 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