JWajyAnn j$ chume (DecomtixfccArt Qouethoru STIRLING AND FRAN CINE C1JUUC ART INSTITUTE L1BRART Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2012 with funding from Sterling and Francine Clark Art Institute Library http://archive.org/details/scissorsyardstic1872brow SCISSORS AND YARDSTICK; OR, All about Dry Goods. A COMPLETE MANTAL, GrvrSG A DETAILED DESCRIPTION - OF EACH ARTICLE INCLUDED IN THE SEVERAL DEPARTMENTS, TOGETHER WITH i UPHOLSTERY AND HOUSE-FURNISHING GOODS; AL30, A LIST OF ALL THE PRINCIPAL DRY GOODS MANUFACTURING CITIES AND TOWNS OF THE WORLD. By C. M. BROWN axd C. L. GATES. PUBLISHED T3Y C. M. BROWN and F. W. JAQUA, HARTFORD, CONNECTICUT. 1872. Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1872, by C. M. BBOWH AND P. \\\ JACJl'A, In the Office of the Llbrar : an of Congres-, at Wafhington. M. H. MlLLORT A CO., PRINTERS A>T> EI KTTKOTTPZSS, HARTFORD, CONN. PREFACE. Induced by the great and constantly increasing demand from many quarters for a satisfactory work of this kind, we are — in consequence of the immediate connection of our own pursuit with the subject — em- boldened, and perchance justified, in attempting the production of a complete manual of Dry Goods, em- bracing all the numerous varieties, and giving a detailed description of each, arranged and classified under its respective department. Great care has been taken to make each description concise, rather than profuse or elaborate, thi> being necessary to make them practi- cally useful. We are confident that this book contains nothing that is not substantiated by direct and positive proof. The facts herein contained are derived both from personal experience, and from every other source at our command, no pains having been spared to make it as nearly perfect as possible in every particular. In the following descriptions, goods of medium quality have been taken as a standard. The same rule has 4 PREFACE. been observed in regard i<> the widths. This subject, which is < of greal importance, has been universally overlooked, as no work of this kind has ever been placed before the public. In offering this book to the public, it is with a due appreciation <>t' the fact that this is not all thai can be said upon the subject of Dry Goods, but it is all that is considered necessary for a work of this kind, the aim being t<> place it within the moans of every one. There are many new fancy names con- stantly occurring, but it is useless to describe such goods, as the names never appear the second year. No mention is made of "Notions," "Laces," "Rib- bons," " Trimmings," etc., as these belong to " Fancy • Goods," and not to Dry Goods proper. A thorough knowledge of Dry Goods cannot, of course, be obtained by simply reading a work of this kind, yet it will be of great value as an aid in acquiring such a knowledge, and also of great convenience as a book of reference. Depending upon its merits alone for commendation, this work is respectfully submitted to the examination of an intelligent public. THE AUTHORS. Haktford, Conn. Textile -F EXTILE f IBRES, TEXTILE FIBRES. Textile Fibres are of two classes, — animal and veg- etable. The animal fibres comprise Silk, Wool, and Hair. The vegetable fibres comprise Cotton, Hemp, and Flax. A few others are, however, often included in the latter class of textile fibres, as Jute, Coir, Abaca or Manila, China-Grass, Sunn, Pina, Plantain, Aloe, etc. SILK. A delicate fibre of great strength used in the manu- facture of fabrics of high lustre and great durability. It is obtained from the cocoon of a worm called the silk- worm, which obtains its sustenance from the leaves of the mulberry-tree. These worms were first known in China, where silk manufacture was first carried on to any great extent. From that country we trace it to India and Persia. It was introduced into Greece in the six- teenth century. From Greece its cultivation spread over all Europe. Venice, Milan, and Florence, in Italy, form the centre of European production. There the finest and most expensive silk fabrics are manufactured. Lyons, in France, is also noted for its manufacture of silk goods. 8 ALL ABOUT DRY GOODS. Silk has been produced in England, bul nol largely. ft is produced in the United States in large quantities, taking into consideration i he amount of labor necessarily bestowed upon it. The productions of the United States an- superior to those of Europe, and equal to those of China. Silk cannot be produced in the Northern States with profit, but thrives in the Southern, the climate being peculiarly adapted to its culture. Its cultivation was in- troduced into Louisiana, from England, in the year 1718. Raw silk is imported from China, Turkey, Italy, and Bengal, in hanks, which an- slightly twisted, to lie snug- ly in packing. Raw silk is of a golden yellow color. Silk fibre differs from other textile fibres in being ob- tained in long filaments, and is converted into thread by simply doubling and twisting. Threads of raw silk are three times as strong as those of flax, and twice as strong as those of hemp of the same size. Raw silk is pre- pared in different ways for the manufacture of different fabrics. If simply doubled before twisting, it is called Tram, but if each filament is twisted separately before doubling, it is called Orgaxzine. Tram is used almost exclusively for the woof of silk fabrics. Organzine is used for the warp, and must be of a superior quality of silk. The icaste of silk made in reeling, cleaning, doubling, etc., is called Floss. It is treated in the same manner as cotton, and nsed for the woof of lining-silks, and other inferior qualities. TEXTILE FIBRES. 9 For the manufacture of handkerchiefs, the silk is wound from the hanks, and cleaned. Bleaching is added, if intended for gauze and similar fabrics. Winding, cleaning, and twisting prepares it for rib- bons and common dress silks. For the finest fabrics the natural gum is removed. It is therefore termed soft silk. If the gum is not removed, it is termed hard silk. The thread is colored by dyeing after the gum is removed. The gum is removed by boil- ing the silk in soap and water. By this operation it loses nearly one fourth of its weight; but recovers one half it- 1"-- in the coloring matter which it absorbs. There is a peculiar variety of silk, called Marabout, made from white Xovi silk; this being white as it comes from the cocoon, it takes the purest and most delicate colors at once, without removing the natural gum. Chinese raw -ilks are known as Tsatlee silk, and are produced in the lake districts in the vicinity of Canton. The bust and finest are produced at Yuenfa. Taysaam silk, which is next in quality, is produced very largely at Kea-hing. WOOL. The fleecy substance which covers the skin of sheep, and some other animals, as the beaver, ostrich, lama, - of Thibet, Cachemyr, etc. -' wool alone possesses the fulling or felling pro- ' y. The filaments of wool, as seen in a powerful micro- 10 ALL ABOUT DRY GOODS. scope, have somewhat the appearance of a snake, ami are of a peculiar lustre. Wools are distinguished in com- merce as Fleece wool and Dead -wool. The former is obtained from the annual shearing of the sheep. The latter is shorn from dead animals. The dead wool is harsh and weak, and incapable of taking a good dye. Wools differ from each other in value, not only in their fineness, but also in the length of their filaments. Long wool, called also combing wool, varies in length from three to eight, and even ten inches. Short wool varies in length from three to four inches. The shorter varieties of long wools are used principally for hosiery, and are spun into softer yarns than the longer varieties. The longer are manufactured into hard yarns for worsted goods. There is no wool that spins so well as the Australian, in consequence of the length of its staple and softness of its fibre. It is used altogether in the finest fabrics. A long-stapled, strong and firm, though somewhat coarse wool; is the best adapted to the manufacture of worsted goods, because they require a fine, smooth yarn, which shall have little or no tendency to shrink, curl, or felt, when made into cloth ; hence the fibres must be dis- posed as nearly as possible in parallel lines. This is ac- complished by a combing operation, thus producing a comparatively smooth and hard yarn, suitable for weav- ing into fine and compact goods. The principal foreign wool-producing countries are TEXTILE FIBKES. 11 Russia, Deumavk, Prussia, Holland, Belgium, France, Spain, Portugal, Turkey, Great Britain, British East Indies, India, and South America. In the United States the manufacture of wool stands next to that of cotton as an important branch of national industry. It is more generally distributed than the cotton manufacture, yet Massachusetts owns nearly one third of the entire capital employed in it, and consumes nearly one third of the wool. New York, Pennsylvania, and Ohio, each, however, consume a larger proportion than of cotton. The woollen manufacture of the United States is rapidly extending. The manufactories are located principally in the Xorthern States. The " Bay State Mills," at Lawrence, Mass., manufacture the greatest variety of woollen fab- rics. The following are some of the leading varieties of wool: Angora, or Cachemyr. This wool is obtained from the Angora goat of the mountainous districts of Angora and Cachemyr, in Asia Minor. The long, silky hair of this goat is called Mohair. This was for some time used chiefly for the list ends of woollen cloths, but now has become of great impor- 12 AiL ABOUT DRY GOODS. tance in the manufacture of dress fabrics. It Is also used \itv largely in the manufacture <>f Bhawls, lace, plush, etc. Thibet Wool. is obtained from the Thibet goat, which inhabits the hills of Thibet, an extensive region in Central Asia. This wool, which is very fine and soft, is used in the man- ufacture of the finest Bhawls, dress goods, etc. -Many attempts have been made to introduce this goat into India and Persia, all of which have proved unsuccess- ful, as the animal will not thrive in those countries. The procuring of this wool is attended with much difficulty, as it is impossible to capture the animal alive ; for this reason tin' wool is very expensive, and the supply limited : this also necessitates great care and economy in its use. Merino Wool. A fine, soft, long-stapled filament, imported from Sax- ony, in 1793, to Wales, and from thence introduced into France and Australia. It is one of the finest combing wools, and is peculiar- ly adapted to the manufacture of soft, rich dress fabrics, etc. Merino sheep are now extensively raised in many parts of the United States. TEXTILE FIBRES. 13 Alpaca Wool. This is obtained from the Alpaca goat, which is found in Peru. The wool is used in the manufacture of the dress fabric called Alpaca. Lama Wool. This wool is procured from the Lama, an animal resembling a camel in form, but only about the size of a goat. It inhabits Peru and the Southern Andes. Its wool is long, very fine, and silky. The hair used in the manufacture of textile fabrics is usually that of the goat; the best of which is from Thibet. The so-called camels' hair is from this animal, which is often called the " Camel goat," and not from the camel, as many suppose. COTTON. A soft, downy substance, resembling wool, produced by the cotton-plant. The downy filaments of cotton are cylindrical tubes in the growing state, but become more or less flattened in the maturation and drying of the wool. When broken, the fracture is fibrous, or pointed. 14 ALL ABOUT DUV GOODS. Cotton was firsl produced in Arabia, where the name originated. New Orleans produces the best cotton in the world. The ohief varieties cultivated in the United States are the "Black Seed," or "Sea [aland," known also as "Long Staple,'" from its line white, silky, appear- ance and long fibres; and the "Green Seed,' 1 called "Short Staple," from its shorter fibres. This variety is commonly known as " Upland" cotton. There is also a kind of yellow cotton, called "Nankin" cotton. The average yield of cotton in the United States is about five bales to the acre. A bale of cotton weighs about four hundred pounds. The seed of the "Sea Island" cotton was originally ob- tained from the Bahama Islands, about the year 1795, being the kind then known in the West Indies as " An- guilla" cotton. It was first cultivated in the United States on Skidaway Island, near Savannah. East India cotton is a fine, silky staple, next in qual- ity to the " Sea Island." The growth of cotton in foreign countries is chiefly confined to India, China, Japan, Persia, Turkey, South- ern Eui'ope, Arabia, Egypt, Southern and Western Africa, many parts of South America, the East and West Indies, and numerous other ocean isles. The cotton manufacture of the United States, the larger portion of which is confined to the New England States, forms one of the principal features of national industry. TEXTILE FIBKES. 15 The first cotton-mill, with Arkwright's machinery, was erected in Pawtucket, R. I., in 1790. The city of Lowell, Mass., is now the largest cotton manufacturing town in the Union. A cotton-mill is probably, of all things considered, the greatest triumph of human skill and ingenuity ; all the various operations, from the carding of the cotton to its conversion into a texture as fine almost as gossamer, being performed by machinery. * The largest cotton-mill owners in the world are Wil- liam and Amasa Sprague, of Rhode Island. They have 6,000 looms in operation, producing 5,000 pieces of print- ing cloth, and printing 2,500 pieces per day. The largest cotton-mill in the United States is owned by them, and is located at Baltic, Conn. This mill is 964 feet long and five stories in height, containing 2,000 looms aud "76,000 spindles. FLAX. Flax is a fibrous plant, called by botanists linum, con- si-ting of a single slender stalk, the skin or bark of which is used for making thread, and cloth called linen, cambric, lawn, etc. Flax consists of fibrils bundled together in parallel directions, which are separated into much more minute filaments. These bundles are bound by rings, from 16 ALL ABOUT DRY GOODS. which they are freed in the operations of heckling, spin- ning, and bleaching. The filaments of flax, when viewed by daylight, with a good microscope, have a glassy Lustre and cylindrical form, which is very rarely flattened. They break transversely, with a smooth surface, like a tube of glass cut with a diamond. It is necessary thai the flax be divided, cleaned, and straightened in its fibres, which is done by a combing machine, called a heckle. The line, small particles which are lot straight- ened out, hut left as waste in the combing machine, form what is called Tow. The tow is carded and spun like cotton, and used for wrapping-twine, etc The heckled flax, when freed from the tow, In called Line. The principal foreign flax-producing countries are England, France, Belgium, Spain, Austria, Prussia, Italy, Sweden, and Ireland. Ireland produces the best flax, and manufactures the best linen in? the world. The greater part of the imported flax used in the mills of the United States is from Ricra, Russia. A fibrous plant, closely allied to flax. The skin, or bark, is used for making cloth, cordage, etc., and for the same purposes generally as flax. Hemp TEXTILE FIBRES. 17 also consists of fibrils bundled together, and is treated in a similar manner to flax. JUTE. Jute is a kind of coarse grass, similar to flax, but much inferior in quality. Jute has long been extensively employed in the man- ufacture of coarse goods, such as cheap carpetings, bags, sacks, etc. It is also employed in the manufacture of many fabrics, in Dundee, Scotland. It is sometimes mixed -with a cotton warp of cheap broadcloths. It is also mixed with silk, from which, owing to its lustre, it can hardly be detected. The principal jute-producing countries are China, Bombay. Madras, and, in fact, all India. coin. The coarse fibre of the Cocoa-nut husk. It is used in the manufacture of mattings, cordage, Coir was introduced into Europe and the United - in 1850, from Ceylon, India. ABACA, OB MA.VII.A-IIEMI>. A fibrous material, obtained from a plant allied to o 18 ALL ABOUT m:y GOODS. the banana, growing in the Philippine islands. The outer layer of fibres is called Vandala, and is used for cordage. The inner layer is called Lupis, which is used in weaving delicate fabrics. Between these are interme- diate layers of fibre, called TuPOZ, used in weaving line cloths and gauzes. CHINA-GBAS9. .V long, fine grass, from Canton, Hong-Kong, and Asam. Three crops are produced yearly. The first is coarse, and the others are very fine, and are used in the manufacture of delicate fabrics. SUNN. A kind of fibrous flax, resembling jute. It is cultivated in the same countries, and used for the same purposes. PLANTAIN. The fibre of the banana tree, which is a species of Manila-hemp, but coarser. It grows also, like the Abaca, in the Philippine Islands. TEXTILE FIBRES. 19 PI3STA. The inner fibre of the pineapple tree. It is very fine, and spun like flax. It is also very expensive, as it can be obtained only in small quantities. It is used in the manufacture of muslins, and other fine fabrics. ALOE. A fine, silk-like grass, from Turin, of which very fine and lustrous fabrics are woven. It is not very durable. GATHERING ABACA IN THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS. COLORS. Colors require a practical knowledge, which cannot be obtained by simply reading, but a few facts and prac- tical hints may not be out of place. There are three primary colors, Red, Yellow, and Blue, which are the most brilliant of all colors, and, combined with each other, produce all the different shades. The value of a color depends upon its brilliancy and durability. Many colors are very brilliant that possess little or no durability. The most simple mode of test- ing the durability of a color, in cloth, is by exposing it to the action of nitric acid. If a bright buff color remains after the acid has ceased to act, the color i- good, and will not fade, but if a dull red, mottled le is produced, the color will retain its beauty but a short time. This test may be applied to all colors. To neutralize the effect of acids upon colors, saturate the cloth in the places injured by it with spirits of ammonia, and if chloroform is then applied, all discolor- !i will, in many cases, be removed, and the original color restored. In this work we have not space to enumerate all the various shades^ but will give the principal colors and the most important combination. COLORING MATTER. The following list comprises the principal articles used to produce the various colors and shades : ANILINE. This dyes all the principal colors, and their combi- nations. It is the basic oil of coal tar. ARXOTTO dyes a beautiful Red. It is obtained from the pulp of the seeds of the bixa, a tree common in South Amer- ica. These seeds are steeped seven or eight days, then pounded to remove the skins, leaving the liquor, which iled and skimmed, and then made into balls. BARWOOD. Barwood dye- Brown. It is imported from Africa, and used in dyeing both wool and cotton. 2 ALL ABOUT DRY I D8. BRAZIL-WOOD dyes Red. It is the wood of the Brazil <>r red-wood trie, which is found in tin- forests of South America. CO( BINEAL dyes Red. Cochineal is an insecl produced in Guate- mala and Mexico. It is gathered from. the cactus tree, npon which it feeds, is dried ; pulverized, and sold by weight. It produces a very brilliant and durable color. FUSTIC dyes Yellow. It is the wood of the fustic tree, which is a native of the West Indies. ixdigo dyes Blue. It is obtained from the indigo plant, and is prepared by steeping the leaves and stalks in water. The tincture is drawn off and churned, or agitated, till the dye begins to crystallize or granulate. After the flakes have settled and the liquor been drawn off, the indigo is drained and dried. COLORING MATTER. 29 LOGWOOD dyes Black. It is a wood from Brazil, which produces a very brilliant black. MADDER dyes Red. It i< a root imported from Turkey. Madder - •:' two kinds, called Levant and Avignon. Levant Madder, which is the best, is produced principally in Greece, ami is exported in a tine powder, of a brown color. Avignon is generally used for bright red and pink. GABANCESTE, or Garancine Madder, i< an imitation of Madder, com- 1 of various coloring matters, combined with an interior quality of genuine Madder. It produces almost every color. XUTO.YLLS dye Black. This dye i- obtained from an excrescence found upon the leaves of a species of oak, which grows fly in Asia Minor. It is formed by insects called cynips. 30 AI.I. ABOUT DRY GOODS PASTEL, OB WOAD, tlyt's Blue. It is a plant from Normandy, which pro- duces a very permanent color, bul not as lustrous as indigo. PUBPUBA dyes Purple. It is obtained from a gland near the throat of a shell-fish called purpura?. As a very small quantity is obtained from each ii>h, it is consequently very expensive; it is used, therefore, only in dyeing the best fabrics'. QUECIBINE BABE dyes Yellow. It is the bark of a species of yellow- oak, known as the quecition tree. It is found in South America. SUMAC dyes Buff. This dye is obtained from the leaves of the sumac tree or shrub. It is found in nearly all parts of North America. TURKEY RED dyes Red. This is the most brilliant and durable of all known dyes. The art of dyeing with it originated in COLORING- MATTER. 31 India, where it was used in coloring yarns. The French first applied it to goods in the piece. It is obtained from a tree common in Turkey and India. TURMERIC dyes Yellow. It is the root of a tree common in the East Indies. It produces a very deep, brilliant color. PICKING COTTON. COTTON GOODS. BK0WS" COTTOISr. This is the common unbleached cotton cloth. It is manufactured in different widths, corresponding to the purpose for which it is used. It is distinguished as shirting and sheeting. The 36 and 40-inch widths are known as shirting. This is always single fold. Sheetings vary in width from 4-4 to 10-4. The widths 42, 45, and 48 inches are used principally for pillow covers, and are always double fold. The ordinary sheetings are either 9-4 or 10-4 in width, and are quadruple fold. These goods are usually woven plain, but sometimes twilled. BLEACHICD I OTTON is finer than the brown, and whitened by a chemical pro- It is finished with a dressing or paste composed of calcined gypsum, sugar, alum, and the farina of starch. It is not finished where it is manufactured, but at mills erected for this purpose only. The widths cor- respond with those of brown cotton. .">•'> ALL ABOUT DKY GOODS. CALICO. A printed cotton fabric, deriving its name from Cali- cut, in India, where it was formerly extensively printed. It i- now commonly called Print. The material for cal- ico is a light cotton, woven plain, and called printing- cloth. It is first passed through a gas-light or flame, to burn off the down or nap upon the surface, which would injure the coloring, if not removed. It is then printed in a roller-press. Wooden blocks are used for the designs. The colors maybe applied separately or atone operation. The principal coloring matters used in printing calico are Madder and Garancine. Calico "was first printed in the United States by the Merrimack Company, at Lowell, Mass., in the year 1823. It now forms an important manufacturing interest of this country. Single fold. Width, about 3-4. FEENCH CALICO. This is printed like the common calico, but upon a finer and heavier cloth. It is much superior in color and design. One of its distinguishing features is the width, which is about 7-8. It is always single fold. COTTON" GOODS. 61 CAMBRIC. A fine cotton fabric, heavily glazed, and presenting a smooth, glossy surface. It derives its name from the linen cambric which was first made in Cambria, Flanders. It is made both plain and figured, and used principally for summer dress goods. It is similar to the French percale, but not so heavy. ENGLISH CAMBRIC. This variety is heavily glazed, and rather coarse. It is used principally for lining, etc. It is made both white and in plain colors. Single fold. Width, about 3-4. ROLLED JACONET, OR PAPER CAMBRIC. This is somewhat similar to the " English," but is thinner, and more heavily glazed. It is both white and colored. Double fold. Rolled. Width, 30 to 36 inches. PERCALE. A fine cotton fabric of firm texture, usually printed tea and figures. It was originally made in France, 38 ALL ABOUT DBY GOODS. and is usually called " French Pereale." It is now largely manufactured in the Tinted States. Single fold. Width, about 1 yard. < II AMI'.KKY. A cotton fabric, similar to French cambric, but heavier, and nut as well finished, neither is it as wide. It derives its name from Chambrey, in Savoy, where it was first produced of silk. Single and double fold. Width, about 3-4. CAMBRIC SKIRTING. A heavy cotton fabric, usually woven plain. It is embroidered or stitched, and often corded or tucked upon one edge. Single fold. Width, 4-4 to 5-4. PRINTED MUSLIN. A fine, sheer cotton fabric, printed in colors. It is often called " French Muslin." A superior article is now made, called " Organdy Muslin." Muslins were first made at Paisley, Scotland. Single fold. Width, about 7-8. COTTON GOODS. CRINOLINE, OR ELASTIC LIXING. A coarse, sheer cotton fabric. It is of two varieties, one of which is woven perfectly plain, the other is crossed by bars at regular intervals of about half an inch. These bars are formed by a coarse thread in both warp and woof. It is sized to give it stiffness, and is used principally for dress linings. Single fold. "Width, about 3-4. < EOWS LINING. A dieer cotton fabric, resembling the plain crinoline, but it is much finer, and contains less dressing. Singh, fold. Width, about 3-4. MILLIXETTE. -V coarse, sheer cotton fabric, similar to crown lining, but much heavier. MOSQUITO NETTING. A loose, open, cotton fabric, similar to tarlatan e, but the meshes are larger. It is crossed by bars, which are formed by uniting several threads of the warp or woof 4<> Al.l, AJJOUT DEI GOODS. at regular Intervals, thus giving it greater durability. It is both white and colored. Single fold. Width, about 7-4. S'J i; \I \ 1CK ( I.OTII. A coarse, sheer, unbleached cotton cloth, used for filtering, etc. It is sometimes made of linen. Doublefold. Width, about l yard. GINGHAM. A cotton fabric, woven plain, coarser ami heavier than calico. The thread is colored before weaving. Different colors are used in the warp and -woof, to form plaids, stripes, checks, etc. Both the colors and goods are durable. Gingham is made in this country, and is, consequently, called " domestic." Single fold. Width, about 7-8. SCOTCH GINGHAM. A superior quality of gingham. It was originally made in Scotland, but is now made almost exclusively in the United States. It has a greater variety of colors and patterns than the " domestic." Double fold. Width, about 3-4. COTTON GOODS. 41 SEERSUCKER GIXGHAM. A fine cotton fabric, woven in narrow stripes, which are usually blue and white, or brown and white. The fabric, although not very heavy, is fine and Avell woven. In the best qualities, linen is used in its manufacture. Sinsrle fold. Width, about 3-4. SILESIA. This fabric is so named from the town of Silesia, in Prussia, where it was first made of linen. It is now made entirely of cotton, thin, coarse, and heavily sized, presenting a glossy surface. It is always twilled. The finish is produced by means of an ironing machine, con- ng of hot cylinders, etc. Silesia is used for the back • 4* vests, and in clothing, etc. Double fold. Rolled like " paper cambric." Width, 4-4. WIGAN. A coarse cotton fabric, woven plain, and heavily L It is used for Btiffenings, etc. It is made black, white, and in dark colors. Double fold. Width, about 7-8. 42 ALL ABOUT DEI GOODS. COKSKT .IKAN. A heavy, twilled cotton, usually called "drill," and often "satin jean." It is twilled only upon the face ; is firm in texture, and very durable. It is made white and in plain colors, ami used for linings, etc. Double fold. Width, about 3-4. DRILLING. A heavy, unbleached, twilled cotton, very finely woven. Single fold. Width, about 3-4. DUCK, OH CANVAS. A thick, heavy cotton fabric, woven plain. It is used for sails, tents, etc. Single fold. Width, 20 to 30 inches. DENIM. A heavy, twilled cotton fabric, usually colored an indigo blue, but often brown. It is used principally for overalls, etc. Single fold. Width, 5-8 to 3-4. COTTOX GOODS. 43 TICKIXG. A heavy, twilled cotton fabric, Avoven with alternate blue and white stripes. It is used for coverings for beds, mattresses, pillows, etc. Single fold. Width, 5-8 to 3-4. SIIIRTIXG STRIPE. A finely striped blue and white cotton fabric. It is firm, heavy, and finely twilled. Single fold. Width, about 30 inches. SIIIKTIXG CHECK. A cotton fabric, similar to gingham, but heavier. It i< woven with fine blue and white checks. Single fold. "Width, about 30 inches. COTTOXADE. A cheap cotton fabric, used principally for boys' summer wear. It is woven plain, with small, colored plaids nnd checks, similar to ginghams. Single fold. Width, 3-4. 44 Al.l. audi i DRY GOODS. TWEED. (Sec "Cloths and Cassimeres.") N A N K i •: E N . A cotton fabric, of firm texture, woven plain. It is made principally at Nankin, China, from which place it derives its name. The material of which it is made is naturally of a yellow color, which is perfectly fast and permanent. This cloth is now imitated by the manufac- turers of Great Britain, but with less permanency of color. It is also made in the United States, of cotton produced in Georgia. Nankeen is but little used at the present time. Single fold. Width, about 3-4. TOILEXETTE. A heavy cotton fabric, used for table covers. It is of two varieties, one of which is of two colors only, — usually red and white. The warp is always white, and the woof, which forms the figure, is colored. It is woven in damask patterns. Double fold. Width, 7-4 to 8-4. The other variety is always woven like rep, in colored stirpes. These stripes are formed by the woof (which COTTON GOODS. 45 entirely covers the warp), and are alike upon both sides. This variety of toilenette is not as heavy as the former, hut is much finer and softer. Quadruple fold. Width, about 7-4. COTTON DOILY. A colored, fringed napkin, made in the same manner as toilenette. WADDING. Cotton wool pressed together like batts, but much thinner. Both surfaces are slightly sized to hold the film •* smoothly together. It is made both white and in dark colors, folded in sheets. Size, about 4-4 by 5-4. Wadding La also made in large pieces, which are rolled, and sold by the yard. Single fold. Width, about 3-4. BATTS. Cotton wool pressed together in sheets, which are about 2J yards long, and 15 inches in width. They are principally in quilts, etc. Rolled and papered. WHITE GOODS. BRILLIANT. A firm cotton fabric, having a plain ground, with raised figures. These figures are produced by the threads of the woof, which overlap several of the warp at regu- lar intervals. When viewed in a favorable light, the figures present a very brilliant appearance, — whence its name. The figure is sometimes produced in colors, by using colored tln-eads in the woof. The whole fabric is sometimes colored Double fold. "Width, 30 to 40 inches. CAMBRIC. A species of fine white cotton. It is always woven plain, and is of several varieties; some of which contain more or less dressing, and are heavily glazed; others are finished without dressing or glazing. The seat of the cambric manufacture is at Lancashire, England. « AMBBIC LONG CLOTH. A very fine, soft cotton fabric, woven plain or twilled. 4 50 Al.l, ABOUT DEI GOODS. It is similar to the soft iinish cambric, but contains a small amount of dressing. Double fold. Width. 4-4. JAC03 ET C V.MBRIC. A soft, light muslin of an open texture, well filled with dressing. It is ironed to produce a glossy surface, by means of a machine, peculiarly adapted to the pur- pose. Single fold. Doubled and folded in four parts. Width, 30 to 4() inches. SARSINET CAMBRIC. This is similar to the Jaconet, hut not as fine and close. It also differs after being doubled once, in hav- ing only three folds. Width, 30 to 40 inches. FIGURED CAMBRIC. A cambric of about the same texture as Sarsinet, bear- ing stripes, plaids, bars, etc. Fold and width, the same as Sarsinet. WHITE GOODS. 51 SOFT FETISH CAMBRIC. A very fine, close cotton fabric, woven plain. It contains no dressing, and is very soft, hence its name. The principal manufacturers of soft finish cambric are Jones Brothers & Co., Manchester, N. EL From this fact soft finish cambrics are often called " Jones cambrics." Single fold. Doubled once, and folded in four pai-ts. Width, 9-8. CAMBEIC DIMITY. A finely-ribbed cotton fabric, made in the north of England. It is woven in a peculiar manner, to produce fine stripes. The piece is then subjected to an operation, by which the ribs are formed alike upon both sides. The fabric is thus double faced, both sides being equally finished. Single fold. Width, about one yard. It is doubled and folded in four parts, like Jaconet cambric. FRENCH DIMITY. This is similar to the common cambric dimity, but much finer in cord and texture, and is more expensive. It i- also much narrower, being only about 15 inches in width. am. ABOUT ]>UV GOODS. INDIA TWILL. A kind of long cloth, woven with alternate! narrow plain and twilled stripes. It is very fine and soft, and contains no dressing. Double fold. Folded in fonr parts. Width, about 9-8. BISHOP LA UN'. A soft, sheer cotton fabric, similar to Swiss muslin, but finer and closer, and has a bluish tint. Single fold. Doubled once, and folded in three parts. Width, 9, 8. VICTORIA LAWN. This is somewhat similar to the Bishop lawn, but is finer, closer, and superior in every respect. It differs from the Bishop also in being of a pure white. Single fold. Doubled and folded in four parts. Width, 9-8. MARSEILLES. A firm, heavy cotton fabric, woven with alternate raised and depressed figures. These figures are usually stripes, diamonds, etc., and are formed somewhat sim- WHITE GOODS. 53 ilarly to those of the Marseilles quilt. Marseilles is also printed in colored stripes and figures. Single fold. Width, 5-8 to 4-4. MASALIA. A fine, soft cotton fabric, woven plain. It is some- what similar to Jaconet cambric, but is finer, and con- tains no dressing. It is in reality a medium between Jaconet and Jones cambrics. Double fold. Folded in three parts, like print. Width, 38 inches. MUSLIM". A fine, thin cotton fabric, woven plain, bearing a fine, soft, and almost invisible downy nap upon its surface. Muslins are of many varieties, the best of which are made at Bengal. The name "muslin" is derived from Moussel, in Turkey, where it was first manufactured. BOOK MUSLIN also called India Book, from the fact that it was first made in India ; is the most sheer of any of the muslins, |>t Organdy. It is very thin and light, and has a bluish tint. 54 AM. ABOUT DRY GOODS. Single fold. Doubled in three parts, like print, then doubled crossways in three parts, making a piece about one foot square. Width, 7-8. 0BGA2TOY. MUSLIN. A coarse, sheer cotton fabric, woven plain. It is very open in texture, almost as much so as Tar- latane. It is tho most sheer of any of the muslins. Single fold. Doubled in three parts. Width, 7-8 to 4-4. PIXA MUSLIN. A very fine fabric, made of the fibre of the pineapple tree. The fibre is spun like flax, and produces a costly texture, equal to the finest muslins of Bengal. Single fold. Width, 3-4. SWISS MUSLIX. A very light, fine muslin, a little heavier than the " Book." It is usually plain, but sometimes shirred, tucked, and figured. Single fold. Doubled and folded in three parts, like print. Width, 4-4. WHITE GOODS. 55 LIXOZ* BRODEEIE. A linen fabric manufactured in France, and is some- times called French muslin. It is thin and sheer, resem- bling tarlatane very much in texture, and is the same width and fold. It is more durable, and much more ex- pensive than any of the cotton muslins. MULL-MULL. A variety of muslin, a little finer and closer than the "Swiss,*" but not quite as close or heavy as nainsook. It is a medium between the two. "Width and fold same as that of " Swiss." XAIXSOOK. A variety of muslin, heavier and more closely woven than the other muslins. It is similar to Jones cambric, but not as heavy. It is woven plain, also with checks, stripes, etc. The plain is doubled and folded like the " Book." The checked, striped, etc., is single fold; doubled and folded in three parts. Al.l. ABOUT DRY GM B. PIQUE. A figured cotton fabric, much like Marseilles, bat not as heavy. It is Bometimea printed in colors. Single fold. Width, 7-8 to 1 yard. FLANNEL-BACK TIQUE. The surface of this fabric is similar to the ordinary pique, but the fabric is much heavier, and bears upon the back a thick nap, like that of Canton flannel. It is used for opera-sacques, cloakings, etc. Single fold. Width, about 1 yard. TAKT.ATAXE. A loose, sheer cotton fabric, woven plain, but very coarse. It resembles mosquito-netting, but is not as coarse. It is often used for the same purpose, although much more expensive. It is more commonly used for covering pictures, mirrors, chandeliers, etc., and is also used extensively for dress goods in lieu of muslin. Al- though Tarlatane is classed with white goods, it is also made in colors. Those in ordinary use are Pink, Light Blue, Green, and Yellow; Black is sometimes Used. Single fold. Doubled lengthways, and folded in five or six parts. Width, about 7-4. WHITE GOODS. DORNOCK. A checked dimity, of the same width and fold as the ordinary cambric dimity. COUNTERPANES. A counterpane is a cotton spread or coverlet for a bed. There are many varieties. The sizes vary from 10-4 to 13-4, except those for single beds, which, of course, are narrower. HONEYCOMB QUILT. This is one of the cheapest varieties. It is not woven plain, nor with flowered patterns, etc., but has somewhat the appearance of a honeycomb. Some are bordered with colored stripes, — usually red. CKOCHET. A quilt somewhat resembling crochet work, and sim- ilar to the honeycomb, but superior in every respect. It boars plain figures upon the surface. The open spaces in and around these figures are filled with fine honey- comb or crochet work, thus making a very handsome and durable article. M.I. \i:.'i l DRY GOODS. MAN, 111 -I 1.1: OB I \N' VS1 IK. This quilt, bo named from the towns in England where it was originally made, is a cheap imitation of the Mar- seilles quilt. The figure is formed, as in damask, by the warp overlapping Beveral threads of the woof. Ii is cheap in appearance, and ii'>t very durable. MARSEILLES QUILT. This is the finesl in appearance, and the most expen- sive counterpane, deriving 'us name from Marseilles, in France, where it was first made. It has two distincl webs, which are incorporated into each other at one oper- ation. Between these, and entirely concealed by them, are coarse, loosely-twisted threads, which are extended across the fabric, raising the figure above the ground- work. Thesurface web, which is woven plain, is very fine. The obverse web is also woven plain, but is much more sheer, and the thread is coarser. The figure, which is usually very elaborate, and fashioned in relief by means of the intermediate woof, is surrounded and de- fined by a- kind of quilted groundwork. In some of the best qualities, colored figures are formed by the intro- duction of colored threads in the surface warp. These threads extend the entire length of the quilt, and are WHITE GOODS. 59 brought to the surface as the figure requires. The superfluous portion of these threads is sheared from the back. This variety is called the " exhibition quilt." COLORED QUILT. TIk- cheapest variety of counterpane. Colors are - I iu both warp and woof. Some are blue and white, ink ami white, and many are of several colors combined. This quilt is heavy, and very durable. TOILET QUILT. A -mall quilt used for toilet-stands, etc. It is made like the Marseilles, ami also in cheaper grades. The fimin 3 are sometimes solored. "Linen p INEN LrOODS, LINEN GOODS. The manufacture of linen in the United States has never been general or extensive. It is confined princi- pally to Xew York and Massachusetts, and consists chiefly of crash and threads. Its manufacture requires so much hand labor, which is so far more expensive in this country than in Europe, that it is thrown almost entirely upon foreign hands. A much better article is produced in Europe, in consequence of the great skill and experience acquired by the workmen. The fineness of linen is regulated by different scales. The ordinary scale is 40 inches, and according to the number of threads used in that space, the fineness is determined. However, in trade, the linen is not called by the actual number of threads in 40 inches, but by the number of bars or reeds through which the warp passes. The number of bars is only one half the number of threads, as two threads pass through each bar. In weav- ing, the width of 40 inches is reduced to 38, and by the process of bleaching this is again reduced to 30. Thus, a piece containing 3,000 warp-threads, after bleach- ing is sailed at 1,500, which is the number of the bars • its finen i 64 ALL ABOUT DRY GOODS. SHIRTING, OK FRONTING LINEN. This linen is of superior fineness and quality. It is used for shirt-fronts, etc., and is always bleached. The best is made at lielfast and Dublin, in Ireland. Cam- bria, France, is also noted for its manufacture. Double fold. Width, 30 inches. DAMASK. A linen fabric, made in imitation of the silk damask which was originally made at Damascus. The warp and woof do not cross each other alternately, but at inter- vals of several threads, to produce the required design. Linen damask is made chiefly at Dunfermline, Scotland ; also at Lisburne and Ardoyne, Ireland. TABLE LIXEX. A heavy, figured linen damask, used for dining-table covers. It has a border upon each edge. It is made in large pieces, and is sold by the yard. Double fold. "Width, C-4 to 10-4. Table linen is also made in patterns of various sizes. In these the border extends entirely around the piece. Size of patterns, 6-4 to 10-4. LINEN GOODS. 65 NAPKIN. A figured damask, made in square patterns, with a complete border. Napkins are woven in pieces of one dozen, sometimes two in width and six in length, but usually in one continuous piece. They are usually plain white, but sometimes colored borders are introduced. Size, 1-2 to 3-4. DOILIES. Small fringed napkins, usually white, but sometimes colored. The colored are used principally with fruit and wine. DIAPER, often called "Jacquard" diaper, from the loom upon which it is woven, is a linen fabric woven with small flowers and figures. Ireland, Germany, and Scotland especially produce excellent qualities of this article. Diaper is always woven in pieces of ten yards. It is nsually sold by the piece, but sometimes by the yard. Single fold. Width, 15 to 27 inches. DIED S-EYE. This name is applied to almost any linen which bears a fine, small dot or figure; but the genuine bird's-eye 66 ALL ABOUT DBY GOODS. is a very well finished kind of linen damask, with email figures or spots, named probably from its resemblance, in size, to a bird's rye. It is used lor the same purpose, generally, as the linen diaper. Double fold. Width, 8-4 to 4-4. ]:i.av u\i:\. A smooth, well-finished fabric, woven plain. The name is derived from its blay color, which is a kind of wan brown, or slate. It is very durable, and not easily soiled. It is used principally for ladies' summer suiting. Single fold. Width, 2.1 to 40 inehes. GRASS CLOTH. A plain, sheer fabric, composed of linen used for summer dress goods. A heavier grade is called " Linen Suiting." Single fold. Width, 3-4 to 4-4. CAirBKIC. A very fine, light linen fabric, woven plain, named from Cambray, in Flanders, where it was first made. It LINEN GOODS. 6Y resembles the common bosom linen, but is very much finer. Double fold. Width, 23 to 30 inches. LAWN. A fine, light, thin linen fabric, woven plain. It is used for making ladies' handkerchiefs, etc. Single fold. Width, 23 to 2V inches. GAUZE. A very thin, light, transparent linen fabric, woven plain. It is similar to the lawn, but more sheer. Single fold. Width, 25 to 30 inches. CANVAS. A coarse hempen cloth, woven plain, not bleached, used for stiffening garments, etc. Single fold. Width, 20 to 30 inches. DUCK. A linen fabric, woven plain, resembling canvas, but it is not so heavy or course. It is usually bleached, and is ased lor gents' summer suiting, etc. Single fold. Width, 24 to 30 inches. (IS A I.I. ABOUT DBY B. RUSSIA Dl OK. A coarse, heavy, unbleached linen duck. Tt is, how- ever, soft, a-- Iressing is used in its manufacture. Double fold. Width, 5-4. ORLEANS DIMITV A firm, heavy linen fabric, originally made at Orleans, England. It is woven with a flat, herring-bone twill. It is used in the manufacture of corsets. Single fold. "Width, 1 yard. LINEN SHEETING. is woven plain, like cotton sheeting. It is not very fine, but heavy ; the requisite being durability, rather than fineness. Quadruple fold. Widths, 8-4, 9-4, 10-4. A narrower width of the same article is used for pil- low covers, called " Pillow linen." Double fold. Widths, 40, 42, 45, 50, 54 inches. TOWELLING. A material used for toilet purposes. It is made of linen ; is of different widths, makes, and degrees of fineness. LINEN GOODS. 69 CEASH TOWELLING. A coarse, hempen cloth, woven either plain or twilled; so called from the coarseness of its texture. It is used principally for hand and dish towels. The best qualities are made in Riga, Russia, and are called Russia crash. Crash is made to a certain extent in the United States ; the manufacture, however, is confined chiefly to Xew York and Massachusetts. It is usually unbleached. Sinsfle fold. Width, 10 to 20 inches. HUCKABACK. This towelling is made of a finer linen than the crash. It is a kind of damask, and differs from the ordinaiy damask in this manner: the warp and woof cross each other at intervals oifxe threads, thus producing a uni- form figure. It is usually, but not always, bleached, and i- softer, finer, ami much superior to the crash. Single fold. Width, 18 to 25 inches. GLASS TOWELLING. A fine, smooth fabric, woven plain. It is used prin- cipally for wiping glass, and is admirably adapted to this purpose, in consequence of being entirely free from lint. It is usually bleached. Small colored stripes or 70 ALL ABOUT l>KY GOODS. cross-bars are often formed by the introduction of col- ored threads in the warp and woof at regular intervals. This is made in large pieces, and sold by the yard, and also, like the huckaback, it is often woven in patterns, each of which forms one towel, which is always fringed at the ends, and sometimes at the side-. Glass towelling is single fold. Width, 18 to 25 inches. TURKISH BATH TOWEL. A kind of rough towel used in the "Turkish baths." Tt is very coarse and heavy, and woven in a peculiar manner. The threads of the warp overlap those of the woof, forming loops similar to those of the Brussels carpet (but of course much smaller), thus presenting a shaggy appearance. Its principal use is to quicken the circulation of the blood, by friction upon the skin. A superior cpiality of this article is made, having a much larger loop, which is cut at the top, and sheared, thus giving it a soft, downy surface. This variety is always bleached, and sold by the yard. It is used prin- cipally for ladies' and children's cloaks, gents' summer vests, etc., and is sometimes called Terry. Another variety of bath towel, used for the same purpose as the " Turkish," is called the " Friction Bath." It is made of a narrow linen tape, knit together by a patented process, forming an elastic, open fabric of great durability. LE5TEN GOODS. 71 STAIR LINEN. (See Carpets.) HOLLAND. A coarse, firmly-woven, plain linen fabric, used prin- cipally for stiffening and " staying " garments, etc. It is usually made in white, black, and dark colors. Double fold. Width, about 25 inches. Another variety of Holland is used for window shades (which see). OSUABURG. A coarse, heavy, hempen fabric, originally manufac- tured at Osnaburg, Germany. It is used only for sack- ing and baling purposes. Single fold. Width about 40 inches. PORTER SHEETING. A finer and superior quality of Osnaburg. Double fold. Width, 5-4. HOSIERY. Hosiery consists chiefly of stockings, socks, shirts and drawers, gloves, shawls, and knit goods generally. It is made of silk, wool, or cotton. In knitting or ho- siery weaving, one continuous thread serves for both warp and woof. The stitches form successive rows of loops, and the loops of each row in turn are drawn through those of a preceding row. Hosiery is manu- factured both in this country and in Europe. STOCKINGS AND SOCKS are so common, and so well known and understood by all, that it seems unnecessary to attempt any description of them. STOCKINETT. A knit fabric, usually composed of wool, or cotton and wool carded together. It is, however, sometimes made of silk, or silk and wool. 76 ALL ABOUT l»i;v GOODS. It derives its aame from the resemblance and simi- larity in manufacture t<> stockings knit by band. It is not woven plain, or flat and smooth like ordi- nary goods, but knit (necessarily) in a cylindrical form. This is cut into widths, and consequently it lias no sel- vage. It is woven both white and mixed, or clouded. Double fold. Rolled. Width, 4-4 to 8-4. sunns AND DRAWEES are of various kinds and sizes. They are usually made of stockinett, which is cut, and the seams sewed, a^ in any ordinary garment. Some of the Ik st qualities are woven entire throughout. Any extended description is considered unnecessary, as every one is, of course, famil- iar with them ; however, a few suggestions relative to the sizes may he of interest : Gents' shirts vary in size from about 34 to 44 inches. Gents' drawers from 32 to 42 inches. Ladies' " vests " from 26 to 38 " Ladies' " pants " " 22 to 36 " The sizes may vary, but these can be taken as the standards. These goods are also made for children, and are of proportionately smaller sizes. HOSIERY. 77 CARDIGAN. A woollen fabric, knit like stockinett, but much coarser and heavier. Coarse ribs, or cords, extend lengthwise the piece. It derives its name from Car- digan, in England, where it is manufactured. It is the material of which the common " cardigan jackets" are made. GLOVES. The material of which gloves are made is either kid, silk, avooI, linen, or cotton. The following are the principal varieties : Kid, silk, plaited, gauntlets, Lisle thread, fleece-lined, mitts, etc. It is deemed unnecessary to enter into a de- tailed description of so common an article. HANDKERCHIEFS. are of many varieties. The material of which they are composed is either silk, linen, or cotton. The greater portion are composed of linen. The following list com- prises the principal styles: Lace, lawn, hem-stitched, embroidered, corded, tucked, mourning, initial, cambric, and printed. These goods are also so common and so generally known, that it is unnecessary to give a detailed descrip- tion. HOUSE WHERE SHAKER FLANNEL WAS FIRST MADE. FLANNELS. Flannel is a soft, nappy woollen fabric, of a loose texture, woven either plain or twilled, and is of many varieties. DOMETT FLANNEL. This name is applied to all cotton and wool flannels. Domett flannels do not have the smooth, well-finished appearance of the all wool. It is made white, and in all colors ; also in stripes, checks, etc. Single fold. Width, 5-8 to 4-4. SHAKEK FLANNEL. A thick, heavy fabric, woven plain. It is either all wool, or lias a cotton warp. This, with the cotton warp, is called Shaker Domett. It is woven very close, and is firm, almost like felt. The name is derived from the Shakers, in Massachusetts, where this flannel was first made. Single fold. Width, 3-4 to 4-4. 84 ALL ABOUT DRY GOODS. SHIRTING FLANNEL. A heavy, twilled flannel, woven with colored plaids, checks, etc. It is used lor heavy shirting. Both domett and all wool. Single fold. "Width, about 3-4. OPERA FLANNEL, also called pressed or French flannel, is a very fine, well-finished all wool fabric. It is pressed very smooth, giving it a glossy surface. These goods were originally made in France, but are now manufactured exclusively in the United States. The best opera flannels are made by George H. Gilbert, Ware, Massachusetts. Single fold. Width, 3-4. PLAID DRESS FLANNEL. A kind of opera flannel, woven in the same manner, with the addition of a heavy nap upon one side, which is raised by means of the teasling process. It is woven with checks and plaids, the yarn being colored before weaving. Single fold. Width, 3-4. Double fold. Width 6-4. FLANNELS. 85 ZEPHYR FLANNEL. A very fine flannel made of " zephyr " wool, having a soft, nappy snrface. It is woven plain. Single fold. Width, 3-4 to 4-4. SWANSDOWN. A fine, soft flannel of wool, having a cotton or silk warp. The name is derived from its soft, downy appear- ance. It is very heavy, almost like felt. Single fold. Width, about 7-8. MOLESKIN. A soft, heavy flannel, resembling the " Swansdown." GAUZE. A fine, slight, transparent flannel, sometimes all wool, but usually a warp of tram silk is used. The woof is of a very fine wool. It is used principally for infants, and for summer wear. Single fold. Width, 3-4. 86 ALL ABOUT m;v <.<>on>. CASHMERE FLANNEL. (See dress goods under " Printed French Flannel.") BAIZE. A coarse, heavy woollen fabric, bearing a thick, coarse nap upon one side. It is woven plain, like flannel. BILLIARD CLOTH. A superior quality of the above goods, resembling broadcloth ; but is somewhat coarser and heavier. It is used for covering billiard and other tables, desks, coun- ters, etc. Single and double fold. Width, 3-4 to 12-4. CANTON OR COTTON FLANNEL. A heavy cotton drill, bearing a soft, downy nap upon one side. This nap also is produced by the teasling op- eration. Single fold. Width, about 3-4. FLANNELS. 87 OTHER FLANNELS. are distinguished by the name of the wools from which they are made, as Berlin flannel Persian, Saxony, Sile- sian, Flemish, etc. BLANKETS. A blanket is a heavy woollen covering. The warp is rarely, if ever, of wool, even in the most expensive varie- ties. The woof is always of wool. BED BLANKETS. These are usually woven in pairs, and are from 10 to 13-4 in size. They are generally white, but the cheaper grades are sometimes gray. CRIB BLANKETS. A small, doable blanket, used for cribs and cradles. ^ v A I.I. AIlol'T 1>KY i:v GOODS. FRENCH BOMBAZINE. This diners from the " English " only in having a silk warp. BOMBAZET. A thin, all wool black dress fabric, woven plain, sim- ilar to all wool delaine. Double fold. Width, 27 to 3G inches. CAMLET. A fine, black dress fabric, woven plain, resembling alpaca ; but finer and softer. It was originally made of camels' hair, — whence its name. It is now made of wool, silk, and sometimes of hair, with silk and wool. In some, the warp is silk and wool twisted together, and the woof of hair. The pure Oriental camlet is made en- tirely of the hair of the Angora goat. Camlet is uoav made in Europe. Double fold. Width, about 28 inches. CASHMERE. An all wool dress fabric, originally made of the wool of the Cashmere or Cachemyr goat of Cachemyr, in Central Asia, — whence its name. It is now made of the DRESS GOODS. 101 fine wools of different countries. The surface is finely twilled, and the fabric is soft, and has a very fine, rich appearance. The hack is plain, resembling tamise. Double and single fold. Width, 3-4 to 5-4. DOUBLE WAEP CASHMERE. A heavy dress fabric, having a double warp instead of single, as in the ordinary Cashmere, which it resem- bles, except in weight. The back, however, is twilled, similar to that of merino, and is covered with a slight nap. Single fold. "Width, about 27 inches. COBURG, OR ENGLISH MERINO. A light cotton and wool dress fabric, having a sur- face similar to that of merino, but twilled only upon one side, and called " single faced." The cotton warp it a firmer and harsher feeling than merino. Double fold. Width, about 4-4. A light, printed fabric, having a cotton warp and wool woof. The patterns are printed on, as in calico. Single fold. Width, about 24 inches. 102 ai.i. AJBOUT m:v GOODS. ALL WOOL DELAINE. A superior quality of delaine, composed entirely of wool, as tlie name would indicate, It is woven plain, and is very fine and soft. Black and plain colors. The black is double fold. Width, about 30 inches. The colored is single fold. Width, about 24 inches. DB LP I) ALMA also called alma cloth, is an all wool black dress fabric, bearing a twilled diagonal surface. This twill is formed by three threads of the woof overlapping the warp in a diagonal line, thus making a flat, instead of round cord, as in most corded goods. This fabric is sometimes made with a silk warp. Double fold. Width, about 36 inches. DRAP DETE. (Pronounced Drah de tay.) A heavy dress fabric, composed of very fine wool. The warp is sometimes of silk. The warp is double, and the surface finely twilled, similar to that of Thibet, but DKESS GOODS. 103 much finer. In reality it is simply a double warp Thibet. The back is covered Avith a soft, woolly nap. Single fold. Width, about 3-4. Double fold. Width, 5-4 to 7-4. EMPEESS CLOTH. An all wool dress fabric. It is woven plain, but the woof threads being much coarser than the warp, appear prominent as they cross the fabric, giving it a finely corded surface. It is not very heavy, but quite durable. Black, plain colors, and colored stripes. Double fold. Width, 26 to 29 inches. EPIXGLINE. A silk and wool fabric, woven like velour. It is usually made in plain colors, but sometimes different colors are used in the warp, forming stripes, etc. It is also sometimes figured, by the threads of the warp over- lapping two or more of the woof. Single fold. Width, about 28 inches. PRINTED FBENCH FLANNEL. A thick, plain, woven French flannel, printed in imi- 104 ALL ABOUT l>i:v coons. tation of cashmere, and often called by thai name. Ii is used for ladies' and gents' morning wrappers, etc. Double and single fold. Width, 7-8. An imitation is made, having a cotton warp. The Tycoon Rep is a still cheaper imitation. GRENADINE. A meshed fabric, composed of the same material as Hernani, and woven similarly. The meshes, however, are usually liner, ami the fabric is not as well woven. Colored stripes and figures of silk are often produced. Single fold. Width, 5-8 to 7-8. GKISAILLE. A silk and wool dress fabric, woven with a very smooth, even twill. The warp is usually white, the color being confined to the woof, which produces a mixed appearance. The surface is smooth and lustrous. Single fold. Width, about 3-4. GKOS DE ZOITZ. A heavy, black dress fabric, having a double cotton warp and worsted woof. A fine cord extends length- DRESS GOODS. 105 wise of the fabric, on both face and back, formed by the double warp, which is almost entirely covered by the wool woof, thus giving it the appearance of being all wool. Double fold. Width, 27 to 30 inches. HENRIETTA CLOTH. A fine, black dress fabric, having a silk warp and worsted woof, resembling French bombazine, but the face is more finely twilled. It has a rich but not bril- liant lustre. The back is so finely twilled that it has the appearance of being plain. Double fold. Width, 36 to 40 inches. HERXASn. A coarsely-woven meshed fabric, composed of wool, silk and wool, and sometimes of cotton and wool. It is often, but improperly, called grenadine. The warp is composed of two threads, one of which goes alternately over and the other under each thread of the warp, holding it in its place, and forming the fine meshes. The material must be of the finest quality to produce a good article. It is always black. Double and single fold. Width, 22 to 72 inches. 106 Al.l. ABOUT DEY GOODS. IirDDKKSFIKI.lJ PLAID. A heavy, woollen, plaid dress fabric, having a double face, i.e., presenting differenl colors ami styles of plaid upon each side. It was originally made at Huddersfield, England. Single fold. Width, 3-4 to 7-8. LINSEY-WOOLSEY. A coarse, heavy cotton and wool dress fabric, woven plain. It is usually made with plaids and checks, but is sometimes mixed. It is a very durable, but not an elegant or expensive article. Single fold. Width, about 5-8. MEEIXO, often called French merino, from the fact of its having first been made in France, is an all wool dress fabric, having a broken twill upon both sides. In the finest material, both sides are about equally finished. This is probably the most durable of any of the dress fabrics. Double fold. Width, 4-4 to 5-4. DKESS GOODS. 107 MOZAMBIQUE. A thin, sheer, meshed fahric, composed of wool, silk and wool, or cotton and wool. Its distinctive feature is in the warp, which is composed of two threads, one of which passes over, and the other under each thread of the woof alternately. They also cross each other upon the surface, between every woof thread. There are less than one half as many warp threads as woof. These threads are not evenly distributed across the piece, but several are placed together at short intervals. It is made both plain and with small, fine plaids. Both surfaces are exactly alike. Single fold. Width, 5-8. OKIEXTAL CLOTH. A -oft, heavy cotton and wool black dress fabric. The warp is composed of fine Anguilla cotton, and the woof of Cuchemyr wool. A flat cord runs lengthwise of the fabric, similar to that of Biaretz, but wider. The ice of this cord is finely twilled, thus forming a handsome and durable fabric. Single fold. Width, about 3-4. 108 AI.I. AKOIT l>i;V (iotili-. TOIL DE CHEVRE. A fine, soft dress fabric, woven plain. It is of French origin ; woven in checks and stripes. The warp is line spun silk, colored ; and the woof of Angora, or Syrian white wool. It is manufactured principally at Paris, Cungen, and Thelle. Single fold. Width, 3-4. l'nM.KK. This fabric is of two kinds. The modern pongee is woven plain. The woof is of fine wool, and the warp of silk. The warp and woof are of different colors, thus producing a mixed appearance. Double fold. Width, 25 to 27 inches. The old-fashioned pongee is made entirely of silk, at Canton, China. It is plain, smooth, and heavy. Single fold. AYidth, about 14 inches. POPLIN. A dress fabric composed either of wool,- silk and wool, or cotton and wool ; usually a rep or cord extends across the piece, formed by the woof, which is very coarse, and covered by the warp. Poplin is of various styles and qualities. DRESS GOODS. 109 ALEXANDER POPLIN. A cheap dress fabric, composed of a coarse cotton warp, and "woollen woof. It has a finely corded surface, similar to that of Empress, but runs lengthwise, being formed by the coarse warp, which is covered by the wool woof, giving it the appearance of all wool goods. It is made in plain colors. Double fold. Width, 24 to 27 inches. CEETONE POPLIN. A fine, soft, all wool black dress fabric. It is woven plain, but the heavy warp gives it a finely corded ap- pearance, as in Alexander poplin. The finest qualities are called "French cretone." Double fold. Width, 27 to 30 inches. IRISH POPLIN. A superior kind of poplin, composed of silk and wool. It is made entirely in Ireland, — whence its name. The cord formed by the woof is very fine. The silk warp entirely covers the woof, giving the fabric a rich and beautiful silky appearance, very much resembling a heavy gros grain silk. Xo similar material presents the 110 A I.I. A1JOUT DRY GOODS. same exquisitely fine texture, which is due largely to the fact that only the finest materials :ire used in the manufacture. The rich, bright colors are produced by the Buperior quality of the water used in dyeing. The Irish poplins are the best and mosl expensive, and are very durable. Dublin is the seat of the poplin manufac- ture; there being in operation about five hundred looms. The largest poplin manufacturers in Dublin are Pirns Brothers & Co., whose trade is for the most part whole- sale. Single fold. Rolled. Width, 24 inches. FRENCH POPLIN. This is an imitation of the Irish poplin. It is made in exactly the same manner, but is inferior in every respect. One distinguishing feature is its width, which is only 20 inches, while the Ii*ish is always 24. The best French poplins are made at Lyons, and are consequently often called Lyons poplins. WASH POPLIN. A cheap cotton and wool dress fabric, woven plain. The colors are usually plain. The name is derived from the fact that it can be washed without injury. Single fold. Width, about 5-8. DRESS GOODS. Ill EUSSEL COED. A heavy, black dress fabric, composed of wool, or cotton and wool. The warp is double, forming a rep or cord, running lengthwise of the fabric. Single fold. Width, 27 to 30 inches. SATIN DE CniNE. .V very heavy all wool dress fabric. The surface is twilled in the same manner as that of merino, and has a very brilliant lustre. The back is plain. In appearance it is very soft and rich. It is made in all plain colors, and is sometimes figured. Double fold. Width, 4-4 to 5-4. SERGE. A fine, soft dress fabric, composed of wool, or of silk and wool, and in the cheaper grades, of cotton and wool. The surface has a very distinct, even twill, giving it a very handsome appearance. Single fold. Width, 27 to 30 inches. Double fold. Width, 30 to 40 inches. 1 1^ ALL AB01 T I'KY G 18. < BALL] E. A fine, rich dress fabric, composed of silk and wor- sted, woven plain. In texture it s< swhal resembles camlet, but it is better finished, softer, and more lustrous. Black and plain colors. Single or double fold. "Width, about 3-4. STRIPED SKIRTING. A coarse, heavy fabric, composed of cotton and wool, and sometimes entirely of cotton. It is woven with narrow stripes, usually black and white. This stripe is formed by the warp, the woof being of one color only. Single fold. Width, about 3-4. BATISTE. A heavy all wool dress fabric. Cotton is used in some of the cheaper grades. The surface is twilled, and the back plain. It has a rich, satiny lustre, — whence its name. Black and plain colors. Single fold. Width, 3-4. DRESS GOODS. 113 TAMISE. A fine, smooth, all wool black dress fabric, woven plain. It is not very heavy, and' resembles all wool delaine in appearance ; but is finer, and better woven. Double fold. Width, 27 to 36 inches. THIBET. -V fine, all wool dress fabric, originally made in Thibet, an extensive region in Central Asia, of the wool of the Thibet goat. It is now made entirely of the wool of the Merino sheep, and not of the Thibet goat, as generally supposed. The surface is twilled, like merino, which it resembles in appearance, but the wool is more finely dressed, and the fabric better woven, and heavier. Double fold. Width 4-4 to 5-4. TURK SATIN". A fine, soft dress fabric, composed entirely of silk. The surface is very finely twilled, resembling the ordi- nary satin, except in lustre, which is not as brilliant. The back i-, plain, and the fabric lighter in texture. It La made in black and plain colors. Single fold. Width, about 30 inches. 8 1 14- AM. ai:mi r i>i;y goods. TYCOON REP. A cotton ami wool dress fabric, similar to delaine, but heavier. There are i\v>> cotton threads in the warp, and out' very fine woollen thread in the woof, ilms form- ing a rep or cord, extending Lengthwise of the piece, — hence its name rep. Tycoon applies to the gay-colored patterns, which are imitations of those of Eastern fab- rics, as cashmere, which it resembles. These colors are printed upon the cloth, as in calico. The manufacture of this fabric was introduced into the United States from England, about the year 1840, and first produced by the Hamilton Woollen Co., at Lowell, Massachusetts. Single fold. Width, about 24 inches. VALENCIA CLOTII. A heavy, all wool dress fabric, woven plain. It is made both in plaids and plain colors. It is woven very smooth and even, and is fine and soft. These goods are now often made with a cotton warp. Single fold. Width, 3-4. VELOTJE. A silk and wool dress fabric, resembling rep or pop- lin. The cord or rep is formed by several threads of the woof, which are confined together, and covered with DRESS GOODS. 115 the silk warp, which is held in its place by a network of threads, independent of the warp and woof. Single fold. TTidth, about 20 inches. Velour is also made entirely of wool. This style is usually about 27 inches wide. The word Velour is properly the French word for velvet. BLACK GOODS. Of the above mentioned and described dress goods, the following list comprises those which are used for mourning wear, and are termed "Black Goods:" Alexander Poplin,* All "Wool Delaine,* AlPA< A.* \ -IHAI.IAX Cbape, Baptise, Barathea, Barboba, Biaeetz,* bombazet, Bombazine, Hrilliaxtixk. Camuet,* Cashmere,* Challie* COBURG,* Cretone Poplin, Drap' d'Alma, Drap' d'Ete,* Empress,* Grenadixe,* Gros de Zoitz, Henrietta Cloth, Herxaxi, Oriental Cloth, Rt/ssel Cord, Satine,* Tamise, Thibet.* * The goods marked thus (*) are also made in colors. others are always black. The SILKS. Silk fabrics were first manufactured in China. All Chinese silks are the products of domestic industry, and are reeled principally by the peasantry. Silk fabrics are so common in China, that but very few people, ex- cept the poorer classes, are clothed with any other arti- cle. The silk districts of China are located chiefly in the Xorth. Its shipments are principally from Shanghae and Canton. The Chinese for a long time guarded the secrets of the silk growing and manufacture with jeal- ous care ; but they were finally carried to Constantinople, and from thence scattered throughout the world. Silk fabrics are also manufactured in Japan ; but not as gen- erally as in China. The quality of the Japanese silk is equal to the Chinese. The finest silk fabrics are manu- factured in India and France. The qualities which constitute the value of silk fa- brics, and the criterion by which this value is estimated, are fashion, color, lustre, weight, durability, and cheap- ness. SATIN". A fine, rich, well-woven fabric, having a silk warp and linen woof. Satin was originally manufactured in 120 AI.F, ABOUT DET (.oul.S. China. The surface is formed entirely by the warp, and is very finely twilled, and covered with a fine, soft nap, which is well finished, and very lustrous. The back is formed by the woof, and is woven plain. Single fold, Width, 20 to 25 inches. TCKIi SATIN. (See "Dress Goods.") rums chain silk. A heavy, finely-corded dress silk. The cord is formed by the coarse woof of tram, which is covered and con- cealed by the organzine warp. Both surfaces are about equally finished, and not usually highly lustred. This silk, and nearly all others, are folded in aunes. Average width, 24 inches. GEOS DE ACROSS. This silk is woven in the same manner as the Gros Grain. The distinguishing feature is the cord, which is much larger. It has a rich lustre, and is very soft, no dressing being used in its manufacture. Width, 20 to 24 inches. SILKS. 121 MOIRE ANTIQUE. A variety of Gros Grain silk, very fine and heavy. It is figured in a peculiar manner, called watering. This watered appearance is produced by forcing moisture through the folds by means of a screw, or hydraulic press. It is also produced by a Calendaring process, the silk being passed between engraved rollers. It is usually single, but sometimes double fold. Width, 22 to 36 inches. ARMURE SILK. This silk bears upon its surface small, lustrous figures in relief, which are formed by the warp, as in silk damask. The fabric is not very heavy, but is fine and well woven. Width, 19 to 22 inches. FOULARD SILK. A plain- woven silk fabric. It is light in texture, very similar to lining silk, but softer and finer. It is often printed like calico, but is usually plain. This variety of silk can be washed without injury. Width, 22 to 27 inches. 122 A I.I. ABOUT i>i:v GOODS. ii STEING. A fine, firm silk, woven both plain and grained. It possesses a high lustre, which is produced, like all silk Lustres, by passing tin- fabric over hot coals before finish- ing. This operation requires the most skilful workmen, a- great care is necessary to prevenl the silk from being damaged by excess of heat. Lustred silks, especially the lighter grades, arc no! usually very durable, as the heat tends to destroy the strength of the fibre. Width, 20 to 24 inches. JAPANESE SILK. This fabric is composed of a silk -warp and linen woof. It is usually woven plain, hut sometimes bears upon the surface figures in relief, which are formed by the warp. It is made in plain colors, checks and stripes, usually black and white. In some of the cheaper varie- ties, cotton is used in the manufacture. Width, about 18 inches. BRUSSELS SILK. This has a silk warp and worsted woof. In some of the cheaper grades the warp is part cottou. It is woven SILKS. 123 like Japanese silk ; but is not as fine nor lustrous. It is made in cheeks and stripes, which are usually black. and white. Width, about IS inches. FLORENTINE SILK. .V fine, thin silk, woven plain in all colors. It is used in the manufacture of parasols. The name is derived from Florence, in Italy, where it was first made. LINING SILK. A thin silk fabric, woven plain, possessing little or no lustre. It is made in all plain colors, and used for lining garments, etc. In some of the cheaper varieties the woof is composed of silk and linen carded together. Width, about 27 inches. MARCELLINE SILK. A very thin, soft, and fine fabric, composed entirely of silk, possessing a rich lustre. It is used for linings, etc. Width, about 26 inches. 124 AJLL ABOUT m:y fiooDS. OIL SILK. A very thin, white silk, saturated with oil, and dried. This process renders it waterproof, an <1 transparent. It is used for hat-linings, etc. An imitation is made of cotton. Width, 30 to 40 inches. y ELYETS, VELVETS. Velvet is a rich silk fabric, covered upon the outside with a fine, short, aud close nap or pile. This pile is formed by a supplementary thread of the warp, consisting of short pieces of silk, doubled under the regular woof, and brought to the surface in loops, which are so close together that they conceal the regular web. These loops are evenly cut and sheared. It is finished by means of friction with beeswax, and polished by rub- bing with hard wood. The best velvets are made at Lyons, France. Single fold. Width, 24 to 34 inches. PLUsn. A heavy, woven fabric, bearing a long, shaggy pile. This pile is formed by one of the two warp threads, which is composed usually of silk, but sometimes of the Angora or Camel-goats' hair. Plush is manufactured like velvet; but differs from it in the length of its pile, and in not being uniformly shorn. The regular warp and woof (which are always double) are composed of Lisle 128 ALL ABOUT ]>KY (.mud-. thread. Plush is sometimes tabbied, in imitation oi watered goods. Single fold. Width, about 'J5 inches. IT SI IAN. A cotton fabric, hearing a ribbed pile, running lengthwise of the piece. An independent woof, com- posed of additional threads, is thrown up to form these ribs, which are cut and polished. All fustian is woven white, and dyed in the piece. There are several varieties of fustian, as Corduroy, Velveteen, Genoa cord, etc. CORDUROY. A kind of fustian, deriving its name from its corded surface. These cords, which are of uniform widths, are waxed, and polished by friction with emery. Corduroy is usually dyed in dark colors. It is woven in widths of 38 inches, and always cut lengthwise in two of 19 each, and used only for pantaloons. BEAVEBTEEZST. An uncut corduroy. This fabric is usually, but incor- rectly, called corduroy. It is woven white, and sometimes VELVETS. 129 dyed in dark colors, like corduroy. The white is bleach- ed, and used for ladies' cloakings, etc. The width of this cord is not uniform, as in corduroy, but varies in different pieces. Single fold. Width, 25 to 30 inches. GENOA COED. A fabric similar to beaverteen, and finished by the same process ; but much heavier and stronger in texture. Single fold. Width, 18 to 27 inches. VELVETEEX. A species of fustian. The pile is soft and close, but not ribbed. This fabric is manufactured exactly like velvet, and from the resemblance to which it derives its name. The warp is usually composed either of Upland, Brazil, or New Orleans cotton. Many suppose the pile of velveteen to be composed of wool, but such is not the case. Velveteen, like all fustian, is dyed in the piece. It is very liable to crock. It is finished in the same manner as velvet. In the cheaper grades much oil is used in finishing, to give it body. The use of oil facili- tates the sale, but injures the fabric. Single fold. Width, 22 to 28 inches. 9 130 ALL ABOUT I)KY (iooDS. COTTON VKI.VKT. This fabric resembles velveteen, but is ligbtcr, nar- rower, and inferior in every respect It is often, but im- 2>ro2)erhj, called Tabby velvet; for no tabby velvet can lie /-A////. (Sec Tabby, under u < General Information.") Single fold. Width, about "JO inches. i 3 HAWLS. SHAWLS. A shawl is a fabric composed of wool, cotton, silk, or hair, used for a loose covering for the neck and shoul- ders. Shawls were originally manufactured in China, and the interior of India, but are now made in many other countries. The manufacture of shawls was intro- duced into England in the fifteenth century. Shawls are of many different varieties, and of various sizes. The standard size of the single or square shawl is 72x72 inches. That of the double, or long, is 72x144 inches. INDIA, OR CASHMERE. A very soft and beautiful shawl, made from the fine silky wool of the Thibet goat. This goat is not domes- ticated, and to obtain the wool it is hunted and killed, consequently the supply is very limited. This also ac- counts for the great expense. These shawls were orgi- nally made in India, from whence they were introduced into Europe. They were highly prized by the Orientals, not alone for their fine, soft texture, but also for their 134 AM. A );« >l T DRY GOODS. beautiful flowered patterns. The wool, which is of a dark gray color, is bleached by a preparation of rice flour, and colored before weaving. Five to twelve col- ors arc usually employed. After weaving, the piece is washed, and the bright flowered border is attached. This is done so adroitly, thai the juncture is hardly dis- cernible. Being made by hand, the process of manufac- ture is very slow. In the finest shawls, not more than one inch is added in a day. At one time there were 16,000 looms employed in the manufacture of these shawls, which were exported in great quantities to Europe. Now comparatively few are made, the imita- tions being superior to the original. BROCIIE. This shawl is an imitation of the Cashmere ; the col- ors, however, are usually more subdued. It was for- merly manufactured in various parts of England and France. But very few are now made, in consequence of the extensive production of the Paisley shawl. PAISLEY. This shawl is also an imitation of the Cashmere, but is finer, and more elegant in design and color. It is SHAWLS. 135 manufactured principally at Paisley, Scotland. Attempts to produce this shawl were first made in Edinburg, but with little success; the material of the Cashmere shawl being at that time unknown. After a time it was found to be the Thibet wool, which was immediately imported and manufactured into shawls, which were superior to the genuine. The manufacture is not so complicated as would appear. The warp is dyed in successive colors, as the design requires, and is then stretched upon a frame in the loom. The threads of the woof are not dyed in successive colors, as the warp, but each is of one distinct color, and crosses the entire fabric, appear- ing upon the surface only as required by the design. The portion of the Avoof which appears upon the back, being useless, is sheared off by machinery. These shawls are made both double and single. The single is usually of the standard size, 72x72 inches. The double i- not often of the standard size, but usually about 63x132 inches. The designs represent large palm-leaves, and other similar figure?, which intermingle and cover the entire surface, except the centre, from which they radiate. This centre is of one plain color, usually red, white, or black. According to the size of the centre, the shawl i- distinguished as open or filed. The size of the open- ing, or centre, in a single filled shawl is usually about 8 to 12 inches. That of the open centre, about 36 inches square, which leaves a figured border about 18 inches in l:',<; ALL ABOl'T IiKY (lool)S. width. This rule, however, is doI arbitrary, as some shawls are about half filled. In the double shawl, the centre is not square, but of an oblong shape, propor- tioned to the form of the shawl. Opon each end of the shawl is a fringe of variegated colors, which is formed by the threads of the warp. The shirs are selvaged. Other than hand power was first applied to the manufac- ture of this shawl by a loom invented by J. M. Jaquard. This loom was first put int«. operation at Lyons, France. Paisley shawls are extensively imported into the United States, and worn in different qualities by nearly all classes. They are sometimes made of silk and wool. Some of the cheaper varieties are made- of cotton and wool.' A cheap imitation is produced by printing the pattern upon a plain merino ground. This imitation is made at Crayford, England, and in the United States at Lowell, Massachusetts, and Waterloo, New York. camels' hair shawl. The shawl commonly known by this name is made and figured in exactly the same manner as the Paisley, but it is heavier and thicker ; the colors also are usually darker. This shawl is commonly supposed to be made of camels' hair, but such is not the case ; camels' hair being coarse and harsh, it is impossible to apply it to the manufacture of fine fabrics. The real camels' hair SHAWLS. 137 is used only by the Arabs, who weave it by hand into coarse cloth for loose garments, tents, etc. The ma- terial used in the manufacture of this shawl is the wool of the Thibet goat, This animal is often called the •• Camel goat,"' which accounts for the misapplication of the name. The size of this shawl is the same as that of the Paisley. CEEPE SHAWL. This is composed of silk, and was formerly made only at Canton, China. It is made in black and plain colors, and ornamented with a colored border, which va- ries in width from 6 to 18 inches. This border is often very elaborate, and is always sewn upon the body of the shawl. It is terminated by a heavy fringe. This shawl is single, and usually of the standard size. At the pres- ent time it is not generally worn. GEEXADINE. This shawl very nearly resembles the dress fabric of the same name, but is heavier. It is composed entirely of silk. It is made in black, white, and plain colors, and is usually of the standard size. A colored border is 138 ALL ABOUT DEY GOODS. formed by the introduction of colored threads in the Wool'. An imitation of this shawl is now made of cotton and worsted. lir.KNAM. A coarse, meshed shawl, resembling the dress fabric called Ilernani. It is composed of silk, silk and wool, or wool. In >«>me of the cheap varieties, cotton is used in the manufacture. It i> thin, and used only for sum- mer wear, but is very durable. BAREGE. This shawl is composed of silk and wool ; is thin and sheer, and resembles the fabric bearing the same name. It is made in white, black, and plain colors, and worn only as a summer shawl. CHEXILLE. A thick, heavy shawl, bearing a close, soft pile, which gives it a rich, velvety appearance. This pile is SHAWLS. 139 formed by the introduction of a supplementary warp, as in velvet. The material is wool, or cotton and wool. In the best varieties, silk is sometimes employed. The col- ors are grave, and only two are generally used, black and white beinsr the most common. TAKTAN PLAID. A long, coarsely-woven shawl or scarf, distinguished by its brightly-colored plaids. Tartan plaids are worn principally in Scotland, and by both sexes. These shawls are of various sizes, but the standard is 3-4 by 12-4. OTTOMAN SHAWL. This shawl is composed of very fine wool, and woven with fine cords or ribs. These cords extend throughout the entire fabric, and are formed by several of the warp threads confined together, which are crossed and covered upon both sides by the woof; consequently the shawl is double faced, and exactly alike upon both sides, resem- bling rep. This shawl is of the standard size, and usually woven with plain, bright stripes. These stripes are sometimes figured. A more elegant variety is made of silk and wool. 140 Ai.l. ABOUT l>UY GOODS. BLACK THIBET SHAWL. This shawl is composed of merino wool, and woven twilled, like the dress fabric of the same name. It is always dyed in the piece. Thibet shawls are made both double and single, and used extensively for mourning wear. CASIIMKKK SHAWL. This is also plain black, and similar to the Thibet, but diners from it in being very finely twilled upon one side only. The other side is plain, and the fabric resembles the ordinary dress cashmere. This shawl, also, is both double and single. BREAKFAST SHAWL. A small knit or crocheted shawl of a triangular shape. POINT LACE. A lace shawl of a triangular shape, composed of silk, and made by hand. It is also extensively made of fine SHAWLS. 141 Angora and Lama wool, which, from its brilliancy, can hardly be detected from silk. The cost of this shawl, when made of wool, is only about one half that of silk. It is always white or black. Size, longer side, 10-4. Shorter sides, 6-4 to 7-4. Thread lace shawls are sometimes made like ordinary double wool shawls. Size, 72x144 inches. / WORKS OF THE SARGENT CARD CLOTHING COMPANV, WORCESTER, MASS CROMPTON LOOM WORKS, WORCESTER, MASS. CLOTHS AND CASSIMERES. CASSniERE. A fixe, heavy, all wool fabric, twilled, and called in England. Kerseymere. It is made plain, and with mixed colors ; also in stripes and fancy patterns. In the best qualities the warp is nearly twice as large as the woof. An inferior quality has a cotton warp. It is both double and single fold. The double fold is usually of foreign manufacture. Width, 3-4 and 6-4. BROADCLOTH. A fine all wool fabric, having a glossy surface and a fine nap, and is used for gents' fine suitings, etc. The best foreign broadcloths are made in Sedan and Lou- viers, France, and in the west of England. It is made of the finest foreign wool, and usually woven plain ; but sometimes twilled. This twill is so fine and so com- pletely covered by the nap, as to be scarcely discerni- ble. The object of the twill is to produce a more durable fabric. The nap is formed by the teasli ng pro- 10 1 t6 A i.i. AJBOUT I'K'V GOODS. cess. (See "General [nformation.") This nap is evenly cropped <>r sheared. Ii was originally done by hand- shears applied to the cloth, stretched across :i padded table; luit is now more perfectly executed by machinery. The finer, shorter, and softer the filaments of the wool, the better the goods produced, because they accommodate themselves better to the fulling operation. By the lull- ing or shrinking operation the cloth is reduced from 68 to 40 yards in length, and from LOO to 60 inches in width. After fulling, it partakes at once of the nature of a woven fabric, and also of a felt. On this account the cut edges are not apt to unravel. Pressing is the finishing process. In pressing, the piece is folded in yard lengths to form a thick package, which is subjected to a screw or hydraulic press. Between each fold a piece of glazed paper is placed to prevent the contigu- ous surfaces from coming in contact. At regular inter- vals (usually of 20 yards) a hot iron plate is inserted between the folds. Thin sheets of iron, not heated, are also inserted on each side of the hot plates, to modify the heat. The cloth is then subjected to a severe conrpres- sion, until the plates become cold. It is then taken out and refolded, and subjected to a second pressure, to remove the creases of the former folds. The satiny lus- tre and smoothness produced by severe compression and great heat is objectionable, as it renders the surface liable to be spotted and disfigured by water. Double fold. Width, 60 inches. CLOTHS AND CASSEMEKES. 147 Cheap broadcloths are made at Lowell, Massachu- setts. LADIES CLOTH. An all wool fabric, woven plain, used for ladies' suit- ings, etc. It resembles broadcloth, but is coarser, and not as heavy. It is made in plain colors. Double fold. Width, 6-4. Rolled. PELISSE CLOTH. An all wool fabric, woven plain. In reality it is a superior quality of ladies' cloth, which it resembles. It is made in plain colors. Double fold. Folded like broadcloth. Width, 6-4. WATEKPKOOF CLOTH, also called Repdlant, is a fabric rendered waterproof by its peculiar texture. In all waterproof cloth the warp is finer than the woof, and neither are so well twisted as in most good woollen goods. This fabric was originally made in England! The "English" is always all wool, fine, closely woven, and well finished 148 ALL ABOUT DRY GOODS. upon both face and baok. The colors, which are formed by the woof, are always durable. The Ami rican goods are always a mixture <>1" cotton and wool, aud Lighter in texture than the English. The twill, which is formed by the cotton warp, is fine and close. It is well covered upon the face by the woof, and quite well covered upon the back. The colors in the best qualities can generally be relied upon. Double fold. Rolled. Width, 6-4. MELTON. An all wool fabric, woven plain. It resembles broad- cloth, but is heavier, coarser, and somewhat inferior in finish. Melton was originally manufactured in England, but is now produced in the United States, and other countries. Single and double fold. "Width, 3-4 and 6-4. TEICOT. A heavy, corded, all wool fabric. The flat cord, which crosses the piece, is formed by two or more threads of the woof. These threads are much coarser and heav- ier than those of the warp. The woof threads are held in place and covered by the warp. The surface is CLOTHS AND CASSIMEKES. 149 covered with a fine, lustrous nap, which gives the goods a handsome appearance. It is used principally for gents' suitings, for which it is very durable. Same width and fold as broadcloth, except some of the cheaper grades, which are single fold. Width, 3-4. PIQUE. A heavy woollen fabric, somewhat resembling tricot in texture, and bearing upon the surface small figures in imitation of the cotton pique, from which it derives its uame. The warp is double, and the figure is formed by a cross twill, i. I M.ONAI. SUITING. A heavy all wool fabric. A coarse cord or rep crosses the piece diagonally, — whence its name. This con I is formed by each thread of the warp overlapping two or more of the woof in a diagonal line. Double fold. Width, 6-4. An inferior quality is sometimes made, which is single fold. Width, 3-4. FOOLOXG CLOTII. A heavy all wool fabric, woven very close, resem- bling felt. It is made in Thibet, of the coarser wool of the Thibet goat. Single fold. Width, 4-4. BOELIXA. A heavy all wool fabric, of inferior quality, made in Portugal. It is woven plain, and used in the manufac- ture of coarse garments. Single fold. Width, 3-4. TOILEXETTE. A fine, heavy fabric, the warp of which is usually of CLOTHS AND CASSIMERES. 151 cotton and silk, and the woof of wool. The surface bears sijiall figures in relief. The fabric is used for vesting. Single fold. Width, 25 inches. VALENCIA TESTING. A fine, closely-woven worsted fabric. Silk is some- times used in its manufacture. The surface is slightly- twilled, and the colors are usually dark. It is made principally at Valencia, Spain. Single fold. Width, about 23 inchss. GRENADINE VESTING. A fine, rich fabric, composed entirely of silk. The surface is finely twilled, and bears flowered or figured patterns in relief. It has a rich, but not very brilliant lustre. It is usually black, but sometimes of other dark colors. Single fold. Width, 5-8. COEDUEOY. (See " Velvets.") 152 ALL ABOUT DBY GOOD. SATINET. , A heavy cotton and wool fabric. It is woven both plain and twilled, and is beaten or pressed together to give it firmness and durability. The name is -derived from its well-finished satiny surface. Single fold. Width, 3-4. K KKSKV. A coarse, heavy twilled fabric, the warp of which is composed of cotton, and the woof of cotton and wool, carded together. The warp is usually of one color, and the woof of another, thus giving the fabric a mixed appearance. Single fold. Width, 3-4. NEGRO CLOTH. A fabric composed of the same materials as kersey, to which it is very similar in appearance. It is usually made in dark colors, and worn principally by the negroes of the Southern States. From this fact it derives its name. Single fold. Width, 3-4. CLOTHS AWD CASSIMERES. 153 EKOCKING. A heavy all wool fabric, having a double warp, com- posed of alternate dark, blue, and white threads. The two threads, which unite to form the double warp, are of the same color. The woof is entirely of blue. It is used for making frocks, etc. Single fold. Width, about 7-8. kesttucky jea:n t . A coarse, heavy cotton and wool fabric, tAvilled upon both sides. The face is covered with a coarse nap. It is not very expensive, but durable. Single fold. Width, about 3-4. TWEED. A twilled cotton and wool fabric, resembling jean ; but not as well finished. The warp is usually of one color, and the woof of another, thus giving it a mixed appearance. It is very durable. An inferior quality is made entirely of cotton. Single fold. Width, 3-4. COTTOXADE. (" See Cotton Goods.") IMPROVED "GIG MILL" AND BRUSHING MACHINE. BEAVERS. Beaver is a heavy woollen fabric used for overcoat- ings, cloakings, etc. In all beavers the wool is dyed before weaving. In the following descriptions, when we speak of the fabric as twilled, etc., we have reference to the toeb. These twills do not appear upon the sur- face, as the web is entirely covered by the nap, which is either smooth, or long and shaggy, as the case may be. These goods are always double fold ; about 6-4 in width. They are doubled in folds of about 5-8 of a yard, like broadcloth. There are many varieties, among which the following are the principal : CASTOR. This is the cheapest variety of beaver, and that most commonly worn. The surface is smooth and finished, like doeskin, which it resembles. It is not twilled, nor is it exactly plain, but woven in a manner peculiar to itself. It has two sets of both warp and woof, one of which is much finer and harder twisted than the other. These two sets are held together by the interlacing of the warp threads. The surface is formed almost en- 158 ALL ABOUT DRY <.<><>H>. tirely by the finer warp. Its corresponding woof appears only us it passes over every fourth thread of the warp. The back is exactly the reverse of the face, the coarse woof appearing more prominent, while the warp crosses it only at intervals. These warp threads, however, are not extended across the fabric perfectly straight, but are crinkled or serpentine, thus giving the back a slight resemblance to the back of stockinett. The hack is teasled, giving it a coarse, -woolly nap, which entirely covers ami hides the threads. Double fold. Width, 0-4. MOSCOW This resembles the "castor" very nearly in appear- ance, and has, like it, two sets of both warp and woof. The face is finely twilled, in the same manner us that of doeskin. The warp appears prominently upon the sur- face. The back is very coarsely twilled, and covered with a coarse, heavy nap. Double fold. Width, 6-4. ESQUIMAUX. This beaver consists also of two distinct webs, incor- porated into each other in the operation of weaving. BEAVEES AND CLOAKINGS. 159 The surface web is very fine ; woven plain like broad- cloth, and is finished in the same manner. The threads of the other web are much heavier, and it is coarsely twilled. The back is covered with a thick nap, which often varies in length and fineness. This variety is usually heavier than the other smooth-faced beavers. Double fold. Width, 6-4. CHIXCHILLA. An all-wool fabric, having a fine, knotty surface and a shaggy back. It is woven with two distinct sets of woof threads, which are entirely independent of each other, the one appearing only upon the face and the other upon the back. Between these is the warp, which is interwoven with, and holds them in their place. The woof threads which appear upon the back are single, as- 18 also the warp. The woof which appears upon the face is double, and, in passing over the warp, foi-ms small protuberances upon the surface, which are slightly sled; thus producing the knotty, woolly appearance. Double fold. Width, 6-4. PETEBSHAM. This beaver is woven in the same manner as the chinchilla, with this exception, — the tufts upon the sur- 100 ALL A.B01 T DRT? GOOD8. face arc larger and longer, presenting a curled or shaggy appearance. Double fold. Width, 6-4. FUK. This heaver is very thick and heavy, and has a soft, thick, wavy nap upon the surface, and a long, fine, smooth nap upon the hack. It is woven with two dis- tinct sets of worsted warp and wool', and is coarsely twilled upon both sides. The threads of the warp and woof in each set are coarse, and of uniform size. The two surfaces are often of different colors. Double fold. Width, G-4. ELYSIAX BEAVER. This is very heavy, and the surface combines the properties of the chinchilla and fur, and, to a certain extent, resembles both in appearance. The back is similar to the face, but more nearly resembles the fur. Like the fur, this beaver has two sets of both warp and woof, the threads of which are also of equal size. The surface web is woven plain. The warp and woof, however, do not cross each other at equal intervals, but the warp appears more prominent, and forms a slight rep or cord. The other web is usually woven in the same manner as the first, BEAVERS ASTD CLOAKINGS. 161 but, in some, the woof appears more prominent. The two surfaces are about equally finished, and are often of different colors. Either surface may be used for the outside of the garment. Double fold. Width, 6-4. ASTRACHAX CLOTH. A fabric originally made in Astrachan, Russia. It has a coarse, strong, but sleazy cotton web, for a founda- tion, the warp of which is usually double. A heavy, and sometimes double, supplementary warp of very fine worsted is incorporated into the web, appearing upon the surface, at regular intervals, in long loops, which are cut and curled by the application of heat, thus giving the surface a shaggy appearance. The wool is very soft and lustrous, somewhat resembling silk. In the best qualities, silk is used to a considerable extent. Double fold. Width, 6-4. PILOT CLOTH. A variety of beaver. It is woven similarly to " Mos- onw" beaver, but is much heavier. The surface is fin- ished in the same manner as broadcloth, but it is quite rough. The back is slightly teasled. D iblefold. Width, 6-4. 11 >- y H itrrospng COMPRISING CaPxPEts, Mattings, M.ats, Oil Cloths, Shades, Laces, Ufholstef^y Goods. CARPETS. A carpet is a thick, figured cloth, composed of differ- ent materials, and used for covering the floors of apart- ments. Carpets were originally made only by hand, but now are made almost entirely by machinery. Great difficulty was for a time experienced in applying the power loom to the weaving of carpets, until, in the year 1839, Mr. E. B. Bigelow improved the power loom so that he obtained from it from 10 to 12 yards of 2-ply carpet per day. Now, by the use of his further im- proved machinery, he has brought the loom to average from 25 to 27 yards of 2-ply, 17 to 18 of 3-ply, and 18 to 20 of Brussels, per day. By the hand loom, only about 8 yards of 2-ply, 6 of 3-ply, and 3 or 4 of Brussels can be made in a day. The mills of the " Bigelow Carpet Company" are lo- cated at Clinton, Mass. These mills, since the year 1849, have produced about 150,000 yards of Brussels carpet annually. Mr. Bigelow's looms were introduced into factories erected for their use at Lowell, Mass. ; also at Tariffville and Thomsonville, Conn. The mills of the "Hartford Carpet Company" are those located at Thomsonville. Of carpets, there are many different varieties, of which the following are the principal: 108 ALL ABOUT DEY GOODS. TWO-PL'S IN'.KMN, called in England Kidderminster, is made with two seta o I' worsted warp and twoof woollen woof. It cpnsistsof two distinct webs, incorporated into each other atone operation, the warp threads passing from the one to the other, to bring the required colors to the surface. Each web is a distinct fabric of itself, which, if separated by cutting it from t la- other, would present a coarse surface, like baize. Tkoo colors only are used to best advantage in this kind of carpet; the introduction of mere tending to produce a striped appearance. Width, 4-4. l HBEE-PLY. This variety of carpet is also ingrained, the threads being interlaced to produce three webs, thus making a fabric of greater thickness and durability, with the ad- vantage of a greater variety of color. The patterns do not appear in opposite colors upon the two sides, as in the 2-ply. Width, 4.4. BEUSSELS CABPTT. This carpet derives its name from Brussels, in Bel- CARPETS. 169 gium, "where it was first manufactured. It is often called "Body" and "Solid" Brussels. It is made upon a web or ground of linen, which is concealed by the worsted threads that are interlaced with, and cover it. The threads are commonly of five different colors. In weaving, these extend the entire length of the web, and are so managed that all those required by the pattern are brought to the surface together across the line of the carpet. Before they are let down, or tightened, a wooden instrument, called a sword, is passed through, to hold up the threads. This is removed, and a round wire inserted, which, being in turn removed, leaves a row of loops across the carpet. In one yard the number of suc- 3sive lifts required is sometimes as many as 320, each of which forms a row of loops. Four colors must al- ways lie beneath the fifth, -winch appears upon the sur- face. In the manufacture of this carpet, about 1,300 worsted threads are used in the warp. These threads are wound upon bobbins, and placed in frames behind the looms. By the "frames" in a Brussels carpet is meant the number required to produce one line of wors- ted warp, which extends the entire length of the web — and not the whole number of colors used — as some car- - have more than five colors, but not usually. Thus ►-called " rive frame'' carpet is oik- in which five col- come in immediate connection with, and underlie each other. A carpet may have seven or eight colors, and yet be "five frame." A "four frame" is one in 170 A I.I. A 1:01 t m;y GOODS. which but three colors lie beneath the fourth. A five- frame carpet is the best made. Brussels carpet is always 3-4 -wide. IMPERIAL BRUSSELS. This carpet differs from the ordinary Brussels, in the figures, which are raised above the ground of 1 he patttern. The loops of the figwes are cut and sheared, — but those of the ground are not. Width, 3-4. TAPESTRY BRUSSELS. This carpet also has a worsted face and a linen back. In the weaving, the threads used are dyed in successive colors, as they will be required by the pattern. By this means a considerable number of threads are dispensed with, as each single thread is of different colors, — thus supplying the place of five threads used in the Body Brussels. By this means the web is"covered with only one thick- ness of wool. Another method is to weave the carpet in one plain color, and print the designs upon it, as in calico printing. By reason of the thickness of this fabric, it is difficult to introduce sufficient color without going over CAJRPETS. 171 the work several times. By this method it is also diffi- cult to retain each color within its own exact limits. A tapestry carpet is not designated by " frames, " as but one frame is required in its manufacture. The width is usually 27 inches, but a few large and elaborate patterns are made twice this width. WILTON. This carpet differs from the Body Brussels only in the loops, which are longer, and cut before the wire is re- moved. The soft ends give the carpet a rich velvety ap- pearance. It derives its name from the town of Wilton, in England, where the first carpet of this kind was made. This carpet is always 27 inches in width. coquet (pronounced mo-ket). This is the Wilton carpet ; and as it is made in France, it is there called Moquet ; thus the names Wilton and Moquet are synonymous. ROYAL WILT03T. This is like the ordinary Wilton, but the pile is longel, and has a soft, cushion-like appearance. 172 LLL ABOUT DRY GOODS. VELVET PILE, TAPESTRY, OR ROYAL VELVET. This carpet is made inexactly the same manner as the Tapestry Brussels, excepl thai the loops, which are longer, arc out and sheared like the Wilton. Width 3-4 and 6-4. AX MINSTER. A rich, heavy carpet, made in imitation of those of Turkey and Persia. The foundation is a linn web, the warp of which is composed of cotton and linen, and the woof entirely of linen. It boars a deep, rich pile, which is formed by a supplementary worsted warp. This warp is dyed before weaving in the successive colors re- quired by the design. The surface is cut and sheared like the Wilton, but the pile is longer. The colors are very rich and delicate, and the pattern is usually large and elaborate. The name of this carpet is derived from Axminster, a town of England, in Devon county, on the Axe river, where it was first made. This carpet is often, but improperly, called Moquet. Width, 3-4. It is sometimes made in one entire piece of any required dimensions. TURKISH. This carpet is made by Turkish families, and is distin- CARPETS. 173 guishecl for its fine, soft texture, and harmony of colors. It is unsurpassed by those if Persia in delicaey and ex- pense. This is not made in breadths, as ordinary car- pets, but woven in one entire pattern of any required size. The pile is very long and sheared, as the Wilton. PERSIAN. Tl lis carpet is made by knotting loops of colored yarn iipon the warp. These loops are cut and sheared by hand. It is manufactured principally at Ushak. AT/BUSS ON CARPET. This carpet, which is made at Aubusson, France, is one of the richest and most delicate in use. It is made wholly by hand, and in one entire piece of any desired size The foundation is a kind of coarse canvas, upon which the designs are worked, in a manner similar to that in which worsted is worked. The surface is cov- ered with short, close loops, similar to those of the Brus- - carpet. The back, although covered with the wool, is rough, and not well finished. The wool is the finest ; the colors rich, and the designs very elaborate ; thus pro- ducing a handsome, expensive, and durable carpet. 174 ALL AlBOUT dry goods. SAYf>\ \kt; IE. A very rich and expensive carpet, originally made at Savoy, in France. The warp is usually composed of white wool, to which threads of various colors are knot- ted, to form the figures. The woof is bound together with hempen threads. The surface is evenly sheared. This carpet is now imitated in France. Width, 3-4. MOSAIC CARPET. or the ground of this carpet a strong, plain cloth is used. Upon this a pile of warp threads is placed, and ce- mented with Caoutchouc. This warp is first arranged over and under parallel strips of metal, which are cut out, leaving the ends like those of the velvet carpet. Width, 3-4. VENETIAN, OR STAIR CARPET. This is woven with a heavy body of worsted warp, which completely hides the woof. The woof should he composed, alternately, of linen and wool. It is used principally for stair coverings, etc. Width, 2-4 to 3-4. CARPETS. 175 STAIR LINEN. A coarse, heavy twilled linen fabric, used for cover- ing stair carpets. A colored stripe is usually printed near each edge. Sometimes it is printed in other plain patterns. Single fold. Width, 14 to 20 inches. A superior quality of stair linen is made, resembling damask in pattern. It is not bleached, but the natural color of the material. This is usually wider than the cheaper grades. HEMP CARPETS. This is made entirely of hemp, and woven plain. The colors extend, in stripes, lengthwise of the fabric. It has very little durability, or permanence of color. Width, 4-4. DUXDEE TAPESTRY. This carpet is made of jute, woven plain. The pat- terns, which are electrotyped and printed, are intended to imitate Brussels. Width, 4-4. 170 ai.i. ABOUT DRY QOOD8. l'Kl.T I Ai;ri:r. This 18 made by placing thin layers of felt across each other, and beating them into a thick, firm fabric, upon which the patterns arc printed, as upon calico. Width, 3-4. OKI '...l'.l I. A printed felt cloth. It is made in patterns, and also in pieces, which are sold by the yard. Itis placed under dining-tables, to protect the carpel from crumbs, etc. It is often called "crumb-cloth." The patterns vary in size from about 8-4 to 1G-4, and even larger. In the piece, the width varies from 4-4 to 1G-4, and is both double and quadruple fold, according to the width. BOOKING. A coarse kind of druggett, used principally for lin- ing robes, etc. It is named from the tow r n in England where it was first manufactured. p- ATTINGS. 12 MATTINGS. EOPE OR COIR. A coarse, heavy matting, made of coir, which is the fibre of cocoa-nut husks. It bears a heavy herring-bone twill upon the surface. This twill is formed by the warp, which crosses two threads of the woof, at regular inter- vals, in diagonal lines. The warp is composed of four single threads twisted together, and the woof of two. The warp threads are exposed upon the face, and the woof upon the back. It varies in w T idth by degrees of one quarter, from 2-4 to 6-4. CHECK OR UNTAX. A light, fine matting, having a variety of checked patterns. The woof is composed of a kind of rush called China-grass. The warp, which is double, is composed of a fibrous grass, twisted together to form a stout thread. Both sides are very nearly alike. The woof threads ap- pear alternately upon each side, as the figure requires. The warp threads are very few, being placed upon each side of the juncture, formed by the woof threads cross- ing from side to side. It is made plain, and also with bright-colored patterns. 180 ALL ABOUT DRY GOODS. Width, 4-4 to G-4. This is often, but improperly, called st raw-mattine. STRAW MATTING. A thin, coarse matting, composed entirely of heavy rice straw, woven plain. It is used for baling purposes, and in some countries for covering floors. It is made chiefly by the Chinese, and used extensively by them for covering tea-chests, etc. Width, 4-4. MATS. Brussels, Velvet-Pile, Wilton, Axminster, and Mosaic mats, are similar in texture and design to the carpets of the same name. They vary in length from 3-4 to 8-4, and in width proportionately. WOOL, OR SHEEP SKXKT. These mats are made of the skins of the long-haired sheep of South America. The skin is tanned, without removing the wool or hair, which is then dyed in differ- ent colors. Sometimes they are not dyed, but bleached. They are of different sizes, the average being about 2-4 by 4-4. Some are ornamented with a colored fringe of loner wool. ADELAIDE MAT. This mat is made, of a coarse, twisted fringe of worsted threads, which is closely sewn upon a padded hempen 184 AIJ, ABOUT l>i;v GOODS. back. This mat is always colored, and usually bordered, two colors being generally used in each mat. Size, 2-4 by 4-4. COCOA MAT. A coarse mat, made of the bark fibres of the Cocoa Palm. The outside of the mat is covered with :i coarse pile. Colored fibre is often used to produce borders, figures, etc. It is usually made in small sizes. II KM I' MAI'. A very coarse, heavy mat, made of hemp. The woof is very coarse, like a rope, and is held together by the fine threads of the warp. Tufts of hemp are placed under the warp, which are cut, forming a shaggy surface. Different colors are often used. It is made only in small sizes. COIK MAT. This mat is composed of the fibre of the cocoa-nut husk. It is made in a manner similar to the Cocoa mat, but is much heavier, and colors are seldom introduced. It varies in length from 2 to 6 feet. Width in pro- portion. OlL-C LOTHS, OIL-CLOTHS. The name Oil-cloth was originally applied to a fabric saturated with oil and dried, to render it water- proof. Xow the name is often, but improperly, applied to waterproof fabrics painted or enamelled, as well as oiled. FLOOR OIL-CLOTH. This is a heavy material used to cover floors in lieu of carpets. The manufacture of floor-cloth was formerly confined to England, but it is now extensively made in the United States, and many manufactories produce a very superior article, almost, if not quite, equal to the genuine " English." The patterns, in various colors, are printed upon the material by a roller press. The designs are cut upon blocks of wood, neatly joined together; thus avoiding damage by warping. To test a floor- cloth, bend a narrow piece together, and if it breaks, it is of good quality ; if it only bends, it is new, and not very durable. Floor-cloth should be well seasoned, and present a hard, unyielding surface. The width varies from 3 to 24 feet. 188 ALL ABOUT DRY GOODS. "ENGLISH" OIL-CLOTII. The floor-cloth sold in this country, known as " Eng- lish," is nearly all of American manufacture; except this, it is similar to the genuine article in every particu- lar. The material of which this cloth is made, is a thick, heavy canvas, which is oiled and painted until the required thickness is obtained. The patterns are very much superior to those of the common American cloths, and the surface is better finished. The hack is painted a dull brown, and varnished. It is made in sheets, which vary in width from two to eight yards, and is often called " sheet cloth." AMERICAN OIL-CLOTH. The ordinary American floor-cloth is much lighter than the " English." It is made in narrower widths, not being heavy enough for the larger sheets. It is made in the same manner, but it is inferior and less dur- able. The back is painted, but not varnished. Widths, 4-4, 5-4, 6-4, and 8-4. CARRIAGE OIL-CLOTH. This is like the " American floor-cloth," except the patterns, which are very small and plain. Width, 4-4. OIL-CLOTHS. 189 STAIR OIL-CLOTH. This variety is made narrow, with a continuous bor- dered pattern. It is of two kinds, one of which its heavy, similar to the " American floor-cloth," and the other light, like enamelled cloth. The latter is generally used to cover stair carpet. The widths of stair oil-cloth vary from 16 to 24 inches. ENAMELLED CLOTH. The material is a coarse cotton cloth, woven plain, and printed to imitate marble and various woods, as chestnut, maple, black walnut, etc. Width, 4-4 to 6-4. It is also printed in highly-colored patterns, of vari- ous sizes, which are used for table covers, and often called table oil-cloth. OILED CANVAS. A heavy canvas, prepared with linseed oil, and used for waterproof clothing. OIL-SILK. (See " Silks.") ? HADES. SHADES. A Shade is made of cloth or other material, and placed over a window to exclude light, air, etc. Shades are often, hut improperly, called curtains. The material of all figured shades is coarse cotton cloth. HOLLAND. A coarse cotton fabric, woven plain, and finished to imitate linen, for which it is usually sold. It is made white, green, buff, and sometimes blue. It may be washed, and, if properly finished, will lose but little of its original beauty. It makes a very neat and durable shade. Hollands are rolled in pieces of about 60 yards. Width, 24 to 72 inches. CAMBRIC. A thin, coarse, cotton fabric, made in imitation of the holland, and glazed upon both sides. The colors are the same as those of holland. Width, usually about 35 inches. 13 104 ALL ABOUT l>i:v GOODS. I'.vi.MKii HOLLAND. A coarse cotton fabric, painted and oiled until it is thick, heavy, and thoroughly opaque. It is used princi- pally for large, heavy shades. The ordinary colors are blue, pearl, and light green. Widths, 3V, 45, 54, 72, and 90 inches. ..oil, SIIADK. A sliaile of any material ornamented with a gilt hand or border. Sometimes a centre of fruits, flowers, etc., is added. The size of ordinary gold shades is 3 by G feet. OILED SIIADK. The material of this shade is oiled and painted alter- nately, thus forming a flexible and durable fabric, which is perfectly opaque. The border or other ornaments of an oiled shade are visually gilt. SIZED SHADE. The material is saturated with a sizing composed of glue, etc. The border is generally of a cheap and infe- rior style, which may be either gilt or painted. SHADES. 195 PAPEK SHADES. The material is a heavy paper, upon ders are lithographed. Other varieties also glazed. which gay- are plain, bor- and FRENCH ROLLEAU. A variety of shade, or, more properly, blind, made of coarse rushes, which are placed parallel and near each other, and bound together by cords interwoven with them at regular intervals, passing from end to end of the shade. Different colors being used, a very pleasing- effect is produced. VENETIAN" OR RUSTIC BLIND. This is made in the same manner as the rolleaux ; very thin walnut slats, about one-half inch in width, being used instead of rushes. It is usually painted green. Widths, 30, 33, 37, 40, and 44 inches. •4M.II-J ~ IMPROVED FANCY LOOM. LACES. LACE. Lace is a network composed of interwoven threads. Tli ere are many different varieties of lace, the most of which belong more properly to " Fancy Goods," and not to " Dry Goods." We propose to treat only of curtain lace, all of which is made of cotton, " Sea Island " being used in the best. COTTOX ILLUSION. Illusion is the simplest form of lace. The meshes are round, and very fine. It is nsed principally for the foundation upon which to work the figures of the "French lace." NOTTINGHAM LACE. This is one of the cheapest varieties of curtain lace, and derives its name from the town of Nottingham, England, where it was first made by hand, in the year 200 A I.I. ABOUT DET GOODS. 1777. It is now manufactured almost entirely by ma- chinery, both in Great Britain and the United States. The design, which consists of a flowered border upon each edge, and figures in the centre, is formed in the net, and is not raised above the surface. The border upon one edge is wider and more elaborate than that upon the other. The network and the figures are both made at one operation, and the two surfaces are exactly alike. It is made in patterns of from 3 1-2 to 4 yards in length, two of which constitute a set to be used at one window. It is also made in large pieces, which are sold by the yard. The widths of the patterns are about the same as that by the yard. The particular advantage of the set is in the bonier, which extends not only down the sides, but also across the bottom. The width of the lace by the yard varies from about 4-4 to 7-4, except in the " vestibule lace." FRENCH LACE. This is the richest and most expensive lace. The groundwork or foundation is of plain cotton illusion. The figure, which is often very elaborate, is formed by a chain-stitch of coarse cotton thread. This figure is worked upon the lace by hand by the peasantry of Europe, — principally of France, Switzerland, and Italy ; this being their principal employment during the long LACES. 201 winter months. This lace is made in large pieces, like the Nottingham, and also in patterns. The designs of the patterns are more elegant and elaborate, thus pro- ducing a much more expensive curtain. CUBTAIN MUSLIN. A cheap imitation of French lace. The design is formed by means of a chain-stitch, -wrought by ma- chinery upon a plain ground of coarse, heavy muslin. This, like the French lace, is made both in lai'ge pieces and in patterns. VESTIBULE LACE. This variety is simply made narrower than the ordi- nary curtain lace, but in the same manner. The design is small, but in proportion to the width of the material. It is used in vestibules for doors and fanlights. It may be either " French " or "Nottingham." Width, about 15 to 30 inches. UPHOLSTERY GOODS. BROCADE. A rich silk fabric, ornamented and enriched with flowers, fruits, and other designs, wrought in gold and silver. This is of very ancient manufacture, and now, by reason of its great expense, it is imitated in silk, colors being used to represent the gold and silver. DAMASK. A fabric originally made at Damascus, in imitation of brocade. It is composed of silk, or silk and linen ; wool, and sometimes cotton, is also employed in its manufac- ture. It has two sets of woof threads, the one of linen, double, and the other single, of silk, which appear upon the surface only around the raised figures. The warp is of silk, very slightly twisted. It forms the figures in relief upon the surface by overlapping the woof. Dam- ask is usually made of one plain color, but sometimes two or more are employed. It is used for curtains, fur- niture covering, etc. Single and double fold. Width, 21 inches to 7-4. 206 ALL ABOUT DUY tJnoi.s. BROCATEL. A fabric composed of a fine linen warp and coarse woollen woof. It is woven in damask patterns, stripes, etc., either plain or colored. The surface of the figure or stripe is twilled. This figure is formed by the warp, which in the cheapest grades is usually black. A supe- rior quality is composed entirely of wool, and called " wool damask. Double fold. Width, 6-4. PLUSII. A heavy fabric, bearing a fine, stiff pile upon the sur- face. The woof is composed of a single thread of cotton, and the warp of two threads, the one of linen, and the other of mohair. The latter forms the pile. It resem- bles velvet more nearly than that used for ladies' wear, the pile being shorter, and more evenly shorn. The color is produced by the warp threads, which are dyed before weaving. Plush is used for covering furniture. Single fold. Width, about 24 inches. UTRECHT VELVET. A variety of heavy velvet, composed of mohair, and "UPHOLSTERY GOODS. 207 used for hangings, trimmings, etc. The name is derived from Utrecht, a city of Holland, where it was first manu- factured. Single fold. Width, about 24 inches. gobelin's tapestry. A fine, figured worsted fabric, remarkable for strength, elegance of design, and beautiful harmony of colors. It is ornamented with animals, landscapes, fruits, flowers, etc The finest paintings are cojfied, and eminent artists are employed to prepare designs. The warp is white, and the woof colored, to form the figures. Gobelin's manufactory, where these goods are made, is situated mar Paris. This tapestry is used principally for curtains, hangings, etc. BEATTVAIS TAPESTRY. This is like the Gobelin, with this difference : the colored woof is silk. The figures also are not as elegant, being limited to flowers, medallions, etc. This manufac- tory is located near Gobelin's. REP. A heavy, woollen fabric, used for covering furniture '_ - ALL ABOUT 1'KV GOODS. for curtains, Lambraques, etc It derives it > Dame from its repped or corded appearance. This rep is formed by the coarse woof, which is composed of several threads twi8ted together, and is Covered and concealed by the warp. Both surfaces are exactly alike, and aboul equally finished. In all except the very best qualities the woof is of cotton. Reps are made in all plain eolor>, but usually in colored stripes. Double fold. Width, G-4. TEKKY. A heavy, woollen fabric, resembling rep, and mis- taken by many in consequence ot this resemblance. The coarse woof is of cotton, each thread of which is composed of several smaller threads twisted together, and is covered by, but not interwoven with, the warp. It is held in place by a small thread, which passes under, and is interwoven with the warp, thus giving the fabric the appearance of being all wool. In short, the face is all wool, and the back all cotton. Terries are used for the same purposes generally as reps. A superior article is made, having a worsted woof and a silk warp. It is woven in the same manner as the wool terry, and is called " silk terry." It sometimes bears upon its surface raised figures of flowers, etc., which are formed like those of damask. This variety is UPHOLSTERY GOODS. 209 much more durable aud expensive than the ordinary wool terry. Double fold. Width, 6-4. A coarse, all wool fabric, woven plain. It is usually dyed in plain colors, heavily sized and pressed, or tab- bied, to imitate watered goods. The colors are generally permanent, and the goods durable. It is used for cover- ing cushions and furniture. Single fold. Width, 2-4 to 2 7 inches. IIAIE-SEATIXG. A fabric composed of horsehair, woven plain. The ends of the hair appear only upon the back, thus giv- ing the surface a smooth, glossy appearance. A cheaper variety is made, the warp of which is composed of linen. Hair-seating is used for covering furniture, and is of vari- ous widths. The narrowest is 14 inches, and the widths increase by degrees of one inch from this to 34 inches. It is a very expensive and durable article. This is often, but improperly, called hair-cloth. DIMITY. A fabric composed of cotton, woven in a peculiar 14 210 ALL ABOUT DEY GOODS. manner with stripes, figures, etc., in Imitation of damask. AY hen colors are introduced, they are always Light. Dimity is of various styles, and different widths, — usually from 4-4 to 5- 1. 1 Ti:\Tl TJEE CALICO, OH CHINTZ. A cotton fabrio of different varieties, one of which (the cheapest) is woven, and printed like ordinary calico. The surface is very heavily glazed, similar to that of Jaconet cambric. It is used for covering furniture. Single fold. Width, about 5-8. Another variety is similarly woven, but is finer and heavier. The colors also are superior, and the designs more elegant. The finish is similar to that of the former variety, but it is not as heavily glazed. This kind is frequently used for curtains. Single fold. Width, 4-4. There are still other varieties of chintz, which are woven both plain and twilled, and are heavier and coarser. The twilled is usually printed in stripes. The surface is well finished, but not glazed. Single fold. Width, 3-4 to 4-4. CEETONE. A firm, heavy cotton fabric, woven plain. The pat- UPHOLSTERY GOODS. 211 terns, which are often grotesque, are usually highly col- ored, and printed upon the fabric as in calico. It is used for curtains and furniture covering. Single fold. Width, about 1 yard. COLORED LIXEX DAMASK. This is -woven like the ordinary white table damask, but colored threads are used in the warp, to form the stripes and figures. It is used for furniture covering, etc. Usually double fold. Width, about 9-8. SILESIA. A twilled cotton fabric, similar to the ordinary sile- sia, but contains no dressing. It is made in white and plain colors. Always single fold. Width, 7-8. BUCKRAM OR BURLAP. A coarse, hempen cloth, woven plain. It is very heavy, and stiffened with glue. Single fold. Width, 4-4. 212 A I.I. ABOUT DRY GOODS. \\ i:r.i:iN< :. A coarse, hempen band, woven plain. It is not bleached, but the natural color of the material. It bears a black stripe near each edge, which is formed by colored threads in the warp. Width, about 4 inches. A narrower variety is made, having a herring-bone twill. The warp is black, and gives the fabric a mixed appearance. Width, about lh inches. GIMP. The material of which gimp is composed, is a cotton cord covered with silk or worsted. It is plaited similar to wicker-work. The loops are held in place by a nar- row band of silk or woi-sted threads, which extends lengthwise through the centre of the entire piece. It is used for curtain and furniture trimming, and varies in width from £ inch to 3 inches. CURTAIL BAXDS. Gimp bands used for looping curtains apart from the centre to the side of a window. They are not uni- UPHOLSTERY GOODS. 213 form in width, but are wider at the centre than at the ends. Length, about 18 inches. Width, at the centre, about 4 inches. TASSELLED LOOPS. These are made of a silk or worsted covered cord or rope, to each end of which a tassel is attached. The cord is doubled to form a bow, which is held in place by a covered slide. They are used for the same purpose as the curtain bands, but are more elegant and expensive. MISCELLANEOUS GOODS. GAUZE. A very thin, transparent fabric, of cotton, wool, or silk. ITALIAN" CLOTH, OR FARMERS' SATIN. A fine cotton and wool fabric, used for coat linings, etc. The surface is twilled, and very lustrous. It is made black and plain colors. This fabric is sometimes called Lasting. Double fold. Width, about 6-4. Single fold. Width, 3-4 to 7-8. SATIN" DE CHTNE. A cotton and wool fabric, resembling Italian cloth, and woven in the same manner; but it is finer and better finished. Width, same as Italian cloth. 218 ALL AliDlT I>UY GOODS. PBUNELLA. A smooth woollen fabric, woven with :i fine, regular twill. It is sometime, made with a silk warp, and often with a, warp of cotton. Width, same as Lasting. IIAIR-CLOTII. A loose, open fabric, woven with a herring-bone twill. The warp, which is double, is composed of un- bleached cotton, and the Avoof of horsehair. It has no selvage. It is used as stiffening for coats, etc. Single fold. Width, 18 to 20 inches. FELT. A cloth composed of wool or fur. It is made by matting the fibres together, without spinning or weav- ing. . It is nearly waterproof. Felt is of very ancient manufacture. It is now made in the United States, at Bridgeport, Connecticut, and Lawrence, Massachusetts. BALMORAL SKIRTING. A cloth composed of cotton, cotton and wool, or entirely of wool. MISCELLANEOUS GOODS. 219 It is about 3-4 of a yard in width,, woven plain, with bright colored stripes, running parallel to each other across the piece, at regular intervals of from 30 to 40 inches. It is out in patterns containing four breadths. The stripes are placed at the bottom of the skirt. This skirting is made narrower for children's wear. BOULEVARD SKIRT. There are many varieties of this skirt, but the name is usually applied to those which are made of felt, the best of which are seamless. They are made in plain colors, and ornamented around the bottom with em- bossed or embroidered figures. The cheaper varieties are simply stamped. HUNTING. A plain, loosely-woven, all-wool ,fabric. It is made in plain colors, and use4 Cotton (one pair), ..... 2^ yards. Bed-tick, - ... 9 yards. Bolster, - ... if " Pillows Cone pair), - - . - - If " 234 ALL ABOUT DBT GOODS. COMFORTABLE, Print (average), ...... Batts " ..... 15 yards. 1£ to 2 lbs. 15 yards. \\ to 2 lbs. yards. yard. 30 inches. or 8 yards. BED-QUILT. Print (average), ... - . . Batts " ..... TO COVER A LOUNGE. Brussels carpet, or ordinary 34 goods, - TO COVER AN OTTOMAN, Ordinary size ; diameter, 13 inches ; altitude, 12 inches carpet 3-4 width ; about .... TO COVER A HASSOCK, Ordinary size ; diameter, 12 inches ; altitude, 6 inches , carpet 3-4 width, about .... LENGTH OP STAIRS. Although stairs vary in length, yet the average amount of carpet uecessary for an ordinary flight is about 7 CLOTH AND TRIMMINGS FOE CLOTHING, ETC. 235 LACE WEAVING. In lace weaving, the threads of the woof are twisted around those of the warp in order to produce the mesh and figure. GAUZE WEAVING. In gauze weaving, the warp threads are make to cross each other between every two casts of the shuttle, thus separating the weft threads and producing a transparent tissue KNITTING. In knitting, or hosiery weaving, one continuous thread serves for both warp and woof. The stitches form successive rows of loops, and the loops of each row in turn are drawn through those of a preceding row. NETTING. In netting, which may be regarded as a rudimentary sort of weaving, the threads are tied into knots at the points of intersec- tion, so as to form meshes of equal size. TO AVOID MOTHS IN CARPETS. Pour boiling water upon strong tobacco, and let it steep until the water becomes thoroughly impregnated, and a strong solution is obtained. With an old mop, or other suitable material, rub the solution thoroughly into the cracks and crevices of the floor, and also around the edges of the base-boards, etc., which will kill and dispose of any moths which may be already there, and effectually prevent their reappearance after the carpet is down. THE PRINCIPAL Jrp Qoods ljhlanu|aclurinjg \§)iti^ mi m)ovm§ OF THE WORLD The A] T 4 RTICLES /VlANUFACTURED IN tACH. F MANUFACTURING TOWNS. Adrianople, Turkey — silk, wool, and linen. Agra, Hindostan — silk and cotton goods. Aix, France — silk and cotton printing. Aix-la-Chapelle, France — woollen goods. Alcante, Spain — mattings. Aleppo, Turkey — silk and cotton goods. Amiens, France — velvet and drugget. Amsterdam, Holland— canvas and thread. Anatalia, Asia — carpets and shawls. Ann Arbor, Michigan — woollen goods. Antwerp, Belgium — silks and velvets. Athens, Georgia — cotton goods. Augsburg, Bavaria — flax and cotton goods. Augusta, Maine — cotton and yarns. Bagdad, Turkey — plush and shawls. Bamberg, Bavaria — gloves. Barcelona, Spain — silk, wool, and cotton. Basel, France — linen and woollen goods. Bassorah, Turkey — silk and cotton yarn. Beauvais, France — tapestries, wool, and linen. Belgrade, Turkey — silk and carpets. Belleville, New Jersey — cotton and wool. Benares, Hindostan — silk, wool, and cotton. Berlin, Prussia — silk, linen, and carpets. Bordeaux, France — cotton, wool, and prints. Borna, Saxony — woollen goods. Boulogne, France — silk and coarse woollens. 240 ALL ABOUT DET <; 8. Bremen, Hanover — cotton and woollens. Bristol, England — cotton goods. Bruges, Belgium — linen, wool, and cotton. Brunn, Austria — woollen goods. Brussels, Belgium — silk, linen, and lace. Cambray, France — linen and lace. Canton, China — silk fabrics. ( 'ashincre, Bindostao — sbawls. Chemnitz, Saxony — silk, cotton, and hosiery. Christiana, Norway — woollen goods. Coburg, Germany — silk, linen, and wool. Cohoes, New York — knit goods. Columbus, Georgia — cotton and wool. Comorn, Hungary — woollen goods. Constantine, Algiers — silk and carpets. Copenhagen, Denmark — linen and wool. Cordova, Spain — silk fabrics. Coventry, England — gauze and fringe. Covington, Kentucky — cotton and hemp. Dacca, Hindostan — scarfs and printed goods. Damascus, Turkey — silk and damask. Darmstadt, Germany — carpets. Delhi, Hindostan — scarfs and embroidery. Derby, England — cotton fabrics. Dexter, Maine — woollen fabrics. Dijon, France — linen, cotton, and wool. Dresden, Saxony — silk, wool, and carpets. Dublin, Ireland — linens and poplins. Dundee, Scotland — linen goods. Durango, Mexico — wool and cotton. Easton, Pennsylvania — cotton goods. Elbeuf , France — woollen fabrics. Emden, Hanover — linen goods. Fall River, Massachusetts — calico and batts. Fayetteville, North Carolina — cotton goods. Fez, Morocco — linen and wool. Florence, Italy — silk and woollen goods. Foochoo, China — cotton goods. Genoa, Italy — velvet and silk. Ghent, Belgium — silk, wool, and cotton. Glasgow, Scotland — silk and linen. Gothenburg, Sweden — woollen goods. Gottingen, Hanover — linen and wool. Gratz, Austria — silk, cotton, and wool. Grenoble, France — kid gloves. Guastala, Italy — silk fabrics. Haarlem, Holland — velvet, silk, and cotton. Halle, Prussia — silk fabrics. Hamilton, Scotland — silk and hemp. Hanover, Hanover — linen and wool. Hartford, Connecticut — silks. Havre, France — silk and cotton. Holyoke, Massachusetts — wool and cotton. Ispahan, Persia — silk, wool, and cotton. Jackson, Michigan — cotton fabrics. Janesville, Wisconsin — woollen fabrics. Kashan, Persia — shawls, brocade, silk, and cotton. Kashira, China — cotton goods. Kazan, Russia — cotton goods. Kidderminster, England — carpets and bombazines. Kilmarnock, Scotland — carpets, wool, and cotton. Kirkaldy, Scotland — linen goods. Konigsberg, Russia — cotton and wool. Lassa, Thibet — silk, wool, linen and velvets, Lawrence, Massachusetts — cotton duck and lawn. Laybacli, Austria — silk and wool. 242 all Ai:<>iT Di:v G00D8. Leeds, England — Bilk, cotton, and wool. Leicester, England — hosiery and lace. Lexington, Kentucky — gunny cloth. Liege, Belgium— broadcloth. Lille, France — linen, prints, and thread. Lint/., Austria — silk and cotton. Lisbon, Portugal — silk of inferior quality. Londonderry, Ireland — linen fabrics. Lorient, France — wool and cotton. Louvain, Franei — woollen fabrics and hosiery. Lowell, Massachusetts — cotton fabrics and batts. Lucca, Italy — silk and wool fabrics. Lucerne, Switzerland — silk and cotton. Lynn, Massachusetts — prints. Lyons, France — silk and wool goods. Macclesfield, England — silk fabrics. Madison, Wisconsin — woollen fabrics. Magdeburg, Prussia — linen and wool. Malaga, Spain — linen and wool. Manchester, New Hampshire — cotton goods. Manchester, England — silk and cotton. Maysville, Kentucky — cotton fabrics. Mechlin, Belgium — shawls and wool goods. Meshed, Persia — velvets. Metz, France — coarse wool fabrics. Modena, Italy — hemp and wool. Montrose, Scotland — linen fabrics. Moscow, Russia — silk, cotton, and wool. Murcia, Spain — silk goods and baize. Nagpoor, Hindostan — silk and cotton. Nankin, China — satins and cotton fabrics. Nantes, France — wool and cotton. Naples, Italy — linen, wool, and cotton. MANUFACTURING- TOWNS. 243 Nashua, Xew Hampshire — cotton fabrics. Neufchatel, Switzerland — cotton and hosiery. Norwich, England — shawls, wool, and cotton. Nottingham, England — cotton, wool, lace, and hosiery. Oporto, Portugal — silk, wool, and shawls. Osnahurg, Saxony — wool fabrics. Paisley, Scotland — shawls and tartans. Paris, France — shawls and tapestries. Pawtucket, Rhode Island — cotton and thread. Philadelphia, Pennsylvania — wool and cotton. Providence, Rhode Island — wool and cotton. Querataro, Mexico — coarse woollens. Reus, Spain — silk, linen, and cotton. Rheims, France — merinos and flannels. Richmond, Virginia — wool and cotton. Rochester, Xew York — clothing and cotton. Rouen, France — cotton and broadcloth. Salsburg, Austria — cotton goods. Saratov, Russia — linen, wool, and cotton. Schenectady, Xew York — cotton goods. Selim, Austria — woollen goods. Springfield, Massachusetts — woollen goods. Stockholm, Sweden — silk, wool, linen, and cotton. Taunton, Massachusetts — cotton goods. Thibet, Asia — velvet and wool goods. Thompsonville, Connecticut — carpets. Tourney, Belgium — carpets and hosiery. Troyes, France — cotton and wool. Turin, Italy — silk, wool, linen, and cotton. Utica, New York — woollen goods. Valencia, Spain — silk and fine woollens. Verona, Austria — wool and cotton. Vienna, Austria — silk shawls and carpets. 244 ALL ABOUT DEY coon-. Ware, Massachusetts — flannels. Warsaw, Russia — wool and linen. Watertown, New York — woollen goods. Woonsocket, Rhode Island — wool and cotton. Worcester, England — gloves. Yezd, Persia — velvet, wool, silk and cotton. Yires, Belgium — lace. INDEX PAGE Textile Fibres 7 Ahaca, or Manila Hemp IT Aloe 19 China Grass , 18 Coir 17 Cotton 13 Flax 15 Hair 13 Hemp 10 Jute 17 Pina 19 Plantain 18 Silk 7 Sunn 18 Wool 9 Alpaca Wool 13 Angora, or Cachemyr 11 Lama 13 Merino 12 Mohair 11 Thibet 12 Colors - 23 Coloring Matter 27 Aniline 27 Arnotto 27 Barwood 27 Brazil wood 28 Cochineal 2fl Fnstic 28 Garancine 2:t Indigo 28 Logwood 29 Madder 29 Nu'ealls 29 Pastel, or Woad 30 Purpura 30 Qaecitrine Bark 30 Sumac 30 Turkey Red 30 Turmeric 31 PAGE Cotton Goods 35 Bleached Cotton 35 Brown Cotton 35 Batts 45 Calico 36 Calico, French 36 Cambric 37 Cambric, " English " 37 Cambric, "Paper' 1 37 Cambric Skirting $8 Chambrey 38 Cottonade 43 Corset Jean 42 Crinoline, or Elastic Lining 39 Crown Lining 39 Denim 42 Doylies 45 Drilling 42 Duck 42 Gingham 40 Gingham, Scotch 40 Gingham, Seersucker 41 Millinette 39 Mosquito Netting 39 Muslin, Dress 38 Nankeen 44 Percale 37 Shirting stripe 43 Shirting check 43 Silesia 41 Strainer Cloth 40 Ticking 43 Toilenette 44 Wadding 45 Wigan 41 White G00D3 49 Brilliant 49 Cambric 49 Cambric, Long Cloth 49 Cambric, Figured 50 Cambric, Jaconet 50 White Goods {Continued.) i lambric, soft ilni.-h ci Cambric, Sarsinet 60 Cambric. Dimity 51 Dimity. Frcncb 51 Domock 57 India Twill 52 Lawn, Bishop 69 Lawn, Victoria 52 Lin on Broderic 55 Marseilles 62 Masalia 68 Muslin 69 Muslin, Book 68 Muslin, Organdy 5-1 Muslin, Plna 54 Muslin, Swiss 64 Mull-Mull 55 Nui ii:-ook 55 Piqui3 66 Pique\ Flannel back 66 Tarlatanc 66 Counterpanes 57 Honeycomb Quilt 57 Crochet Quilt 57 Manchester Quilt 58 Marseilles Quilt 58 Colored Quilt 69 Toilet Quil:. 5'J Linen Goods C3 Blay linen 60 Bird's-Eye 65 Cambric 66 Canvas 67 Damask 64 Diaper 05 Doilies 65 Duck 67 Duck, Russia 68 Gauze 67 Grass Cloth 66 Holland 71 - Lawn 67 Napkin 65 Orleans Dimity 68 Osnaburg 71 Porter Sheeting 71 Sheeting , 68 Sbirting 64 Towelling 68 Towelling, Crash 69 Towelling, Glass 69 I'AIIK Linen Goods ( i 'onil Towelling, Huckaback 69 Towelling, Turkish Hath TO Table Linen 61 Hosiery 7". Cardigan 7 7 shin- it tid Drawers 7'i Stockinet! 75 Stockings and Socks 75 Gloves 71 handkerchiefs 79 Flannels 83 Cashmere 10 i Baize 86 Billiard cloth 86 Blankets 87 Blanket, Bed 87 Blanket, Crib 87 Blanket, Carriage or Lap 88 Canton, or Cotton Flannel 86 Domett 83 Gauze 85 Moleskin 85 Opera 84 Otter Flannels (-7 Plaid Dre.-s 84 Shaker 83 Shirting 84 S wansdown 85 Zephyr 85 Veil Goods 91 Barege 92 Crape 91 Crape, French 91 Gauze 92 Grenadine 92 Tissue 93 Tulle 93 Dress Goods 97 Alpaca 97 Australian Crape 97 Baptise 99 Barathea 98 Barbora, or Lyonnaise 99 Biaretz 93 Bombazine 99 Bombazine, French ICO INDEX. 247 PAGE Dress Goods (Continued.) Bombazet 100 Brill iantine 07 Camlet 100 Cashmere 103 Cashmere, Double Warp 101 Challis 112 Coburg, or English Merino 101 Delaine 101 Delaine, all Wool 103 Drap' d'Alma 102 Drap' d'Ete 102 Empress Cloih 103 Epingline 103 Flannel. Printed French 103 Grenadine 104 Grisaille 104 GrosdeZoitz 104 Henrietta Cloth 105 Hernani 105 Huddersfield Plaid 106 Linsey-Woolsey 106 Merino 106 Mozambique 107 Oriental Cloth 107 Poil de Chevre 108 Ponge,.- 108 Poplin l'» s Poplin, Alexander 109 Poplin, Cretone 109 Poplin, French 110 Poplin, Irish 109 Poplin, Wash 110 Russell Cord Ill Satin de Chine Ill Satine 112 Serge Ill Striped Skirting 112 Tamiee 113 Thibet 113 Turk Satin 113 Tycoon R<-p -. 114 Valencia Cl^iii 114 Velonr 114 Black GooD3 115 SrLK? 119 Armure 121 Brussels 122 123 Foulard 121 Gros Grain 120 PAGE Silks (Continued.) Gros de Across 120 Japanese 122 Lining 123 Lustring 122 Marcelline — 123 Moire Antique 121 Oil Silk 124 Satin 119 Turk Satin H3 Velvets 127 Beaverteen 128 Cordurov 128 Cotton Velvet 130 Fustain 128 Genoa Cord 129 Plush 127 Velveteen 129 Shawls 133 Barege 138 Broche 134 Break'asr 140 Camel's Hair 136 Cashmere 140 Chenille 138 Crepe 137 Grenadine 137 Hernani 138 India, or Cashmere 133 Point Lace 140 Ottoman 139 Paisley 134 Tanan Plaid 139 Thibet Black 140 Cloths and Cassimeres 145 Borlina 150 Broadcloth 145 Ca^simere 145 Corduroy 145 Cottonade 43 Diagonal Suiting 150 Doeskin 149 Foolong ISO Frockintr 153 Grenadine Vesting 151 Kentucky Jean 153 Kersev 152 Ladies' Cloth 147 Melton 148 Clotiis and Cassimeres (Contlnueii.) NegroOlotb 153 IYIiase Cloth 117 Pique 149 Satinet IBS Toilenette 160 Tricot 118 Tweed 168 Valencia Veiling 161 Waterprool Cloth i it Beavers and Cloaking? 1"> Heavers 161 Astrachan Cloth 161 Castor 167 Chinchilla 159 Elysian 160 Esquimaux I6E Fur l»'ii Moscow • 158 Petersham 159 Pilot Cloth 161 FURNISHING GOODS. Carpets 167 Aubusson 173 Axminster 172 Bocking 176 Brussels 168 Brussels, Imperial ITn Brussels, Tapestry 17u Drugget 176 Dundee Tapestry 1 io Felt 176 Hemp 175 Ingrain, Two-ply 168 Ingrain, Three-ply 168 Moquet 171 Mosaic 1"4 Persian 173 Savonnerie 174 Stair Linen 175 Turkish 172 Venetian, or Stair 174 Velvet Pile 172 Wilton 171 Wilton, Royal 171 Mattings 179 Check, or Lintan 179 Rope, or Coir , 179 Straw 180 PACK Mats 188 Adelaide 1K3 Coir 184 Cocoa 184 Bemp 184 Wool, or Sheepskin 18-i Oil-Cloths 187 American ]sh Carriage ish Enamelled Cloth 189 "English" ins Floor ]K7 Oiled Canvas 189 Oil Silk i-.M Stair 189 Shades m.3 Cambric 198 French Rolleau 195 Cold Shades 194 Holland " 193 Holland, Painted 194 Oiled Suades 194 Paper " 195 Sized •' 194 Venetian, or Bustle 195 Laces 199 Cotton Illusion 199 Curtain Muslin 201 '• French Lace " 2(:0 Nottingham Late 199 Vcstibu'e Lace 201 Upnoi stery Goods 205 Brocade 205 Brocatel 206 Buckram, or Burlap 211 Colored Linen Damn m 211 Cretone 210 Curtain Bands 212 Damask 205 Dimity 209 Furniture Chintz 210 Gimp 212 Hair-seating 2d9 Moreen 209 Plush 206 Rep 207 Silesia 211 Tapestry, Beauvais' 207 Tapestry, Gobelin's 207 INDEX. 249 PAGE Tasseled Loops 213 Terry 208 Utrectu Velvet 206 Webbiug 212 MISCELLANEOUS GOODS. Balmoral Skirting 218 Bjulevard •' 219 Bmtng 219 Satin. d.J Cnine 217 Felt 218 Gauze 217 Gunnies 220 Hair-Cloh 218 Italian- Jlotb, or Farmer's sal in 217 Pranella 218 Table Covers 219 GENERAL INFORMATION. Anne 229 Curtain 229 Cutting Samples 229 Defined Spots, how produced 227 Dressing, of what composed 221 Gauze Weaving 235 Hosiers Weaving Knitting 235 Lace Weaving 235 Lambraque, or Lambrequin 229 PAGE General Infokmation {Continued.) Length of Stairs 234 Linen from Cotton— to distinguish £27 Lisle Thread 225 Mesh 224 Meter 329 Non-inilammable fabrics — now rendered 226 Nap .. 224 Netting 235 Notions, or Haberdashery 228 Pile 225 Preserve Colors, how to 227 Remove Acids, how to 227 Selvage, or List 223 Shoddy 226 Staple Goods 228 Tabbv 226 Teasl'ing 224 To Cover a Lounge 234 To Cover a Hassock 234 To Cover an Ottoman 234 To Avoid Moths 285 Twill 223 Warp , 223 Woof 223 Worsted 225 Cloth and Trimmings 231 Mant/factttbing Cities 239 NK8804 .B768 Brown, C. MVScissors and yards 3 1962 00200 508