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 PICTURESQUE SKETCHES IN IRELAND. 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
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 PICTURESQUE SKETCHES 
 
 OF SOME OF THE FINEST 
 
 
 
 LANDSCAPE AND COAST SCENERY 
 
 OF 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 IRELAND. | 
 
 FROM 
 
 DRAWINGS BY GEORGE PETRIE, R. H. A., A. NICHOLL, AND H. O’NEILL. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 eae Bear Ind | 
 
 VOLUME I. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 DUBLIN : 
 
 WILLIAM FREDERICK WAKEMAN, 9, D’OLIER-STREET; 
 ACKERMANN AND COMPANY; HODGSON, BOYS, AND GRAVES, AND CHARLES TILT, LONDON 
 SOLD BY ALL BOOKSELLERS, 
 
 1835. 
 
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 In ofering the present Volume to the notice of the public, in a form which the 
 publisher considers will render it particularly suitable for a Christmas or New Year's 
 Gift, he deems it scarcely necessary to mention, that it is a collection of Views in 
 Ireland, which have been highly spoken of, while publishing in monthly seven- 
 shilling numbers, during the past year. It is very generally considered that no coun- 
 try in the world, of the same extent, can afford to the eye of the painter, a more 
 varied field of subject than the Coast and Landscape Scenery of Ireland. In the pre- 
 sent work it has been the wish of the publisher to do Justice to the country, by select- 
 ing from those different portions of the Island which at once afford the greatest 
 variety of landscape, and the most striking and picturesque objects, such views as 
 
 would give a correct idea of the districts to which they individually belong. 
 
 The scenery pourtrayed in the present Volume is that of Wicklow, the Lakes of 
 Killarney, and the Giant’s Causeway ; and in order to give the fullest effect to the 
 Illustrations, and to preserve the genuine characteristic of the scenery, in colour as 
 
 well as form, they have been all tinted from the original drawings. 
 
 The work is now offered to the public as one which merits the patronage of the 
 - friends of Ireland, and as being well adapted for presents to those who may be 
 
 anxious to know something of the scenery of the country. 
 The Second Volume, completing the Illustrations of the Coast of Antrim, the 
 Giant’s Causeway, and Killarney, will be published in 1836. 
 
 W.F. WAKEMAN. 
 
 Dublin, December, 1835. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 LIST OF PLATES. 
 
 BENANDANAR AND THE STACK, PORT MOON, CO. ANTRIM........ A Micwour : 4. cae | a 
 THE LOWER LAKE, KILLARNEY...2.00..0.00. dele eee AL MICS OLL . oudelsen: 3 
 THE FOUR COURTS, KINGSTON CAVE, CO. TIPPERARY ............ AL Nwnota adic. 3 
 THE MEETING OF THE WATERS, CO. WICKLOW..............0000000- HW. OP Nea Gl an se 7 
 WATERFALL IN THE DEVIL’S GLEN, CO. WICKLOW.... ............. A. Maceo veccvsn xs 9 
 DOON POINT, ISLAND OF RATHLIN, COAST OF ANTRIM............ A, Wihata sss iy 
 VIEW IN THEGDARGLE, CO; WICKLOWe............. eee H. O'NEILD ci saccesa 13 
 KENBAAN CASTLE, CO. AOWRIM ..cickeenee eee eee A. Nuch: Ho. 3n04 15 
 COMEEN DUFF, OR BLACK VALLEY, KILLAHNEY.... 47.42 G. Perriz, R. H. A. 17 
 WATERFALL AT POWERSCOURT, CO. WICKLOW..........2-.ccscc0e .. BONE ee 19 
 PIKE OFTHE GAMOF DUNLOB, COSKERRY:4..4. ee Al. Wigwam ce aes 21 
 CASTLE BOWARD, CO. WICKLOW «.... ..cgHBe cot ehescbee sls eee VEO Newer i. es 
 GOOGAN BARRA, CO: COR Ke go uiasces.scaccat ee eee G. Perriz, R. H. A. 25 
 REENDONOGAN LAKE, FROM GORTEENRUOE, BANTRY BAY...... Ap Niwot Jeet eee 
 PORT COON CAVE, NEAR THE GIANT’S CAUSEWAY, CO. ANTRIM A. Nicnot........... 29 
 THE ESS WATERFALL, GLENMALURE, CO. WICKLOW............... Fis OP RGU a babii dove 21 
 THE TWELVE PINS, CONNEMARA, CO. GALWAY.......2..sseccceeecse G. Perriz, R. H. A. 33 
 GLEN OF THE, DOWNS, CO. WICKEOW 2... 60 eee H. O’Nent:.... 2 35 
 SECOND MEETING OF THE WATERS, CO. WICKLOW ...........0.05 H.-O'NGILE s 6. eee 37 
 BALLY ARTHUR, CO. WICKLOW ........ Waite PRL cadet) tememea te eG B. O Naty ics). hanes 39 
 THE BWO SUGAR-LOAVES, CO. WICKLOW). :4....)5...4... as ot) SEMIN pingien a: 41 
 WATERFALL AT GLENMACANASS, CO. WICKLOW .................... H. GO Nami 74854 43 
 NEWBRIDGE, ON THE OVOCA, CO, WICKLOW ee HO Nema ee 45 
 
 SHELTON ABBEY,:CO. WICKLOW .. 4.120... eee 
 
 O'NEILL 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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 BENANDANAR, AND THE STACK, 
 
 PORT MOON, COUNTY ANTRIM. 
 
 The scenery of the north coast of Ireland presents a very striking singularity of ap- 
 pearance. The incessant action of the northern ocean beating upon it without 
 check or intermission, during a countless series of ages, has torn away the surface, 
 and revealed to full view the interior of this great basaltic mass, in all its regularity 
 of original construction and wildness of accidental exposure. Benandanar, a projecting 
 cliff to the east of Bengore Head, exhibits a fine illustration of this display of the com- 
 bined energies of the wisdom of the Creator and the desolating violence of his elements. 
 Though nearly a central point in the amphitheatric range which has attracted to it 
 the eye of the naturalist, the antiquarian and the poet, the spot here delineated is less 
 known than many of the other prominent objects of inquiry, because till lately of more 
 difficult access, from above impossible, from beneath hazardous. The beetling brow 
 of the cliff that gives name to the headland forbade all hope of attaining from the sum- 
 mit the point of view chosen by the scientific eye of the draftsman, as most effective 
 to give life and reality to his pencil’s touches. In stormy weather, when the gale 
 blows from the regions of the north or west, the combined waves of the Atlantic 
 and Deucalidonian oceans heave against its craggy coves with such a weight of water as 
 would dash to atoms in a moment the frail craft that would venture in here from the 
 sea, and even the land breeze produces. an agitation amidst the eddies and currents 
 caused by the tide struggling among the broken masses of rock. But to the lover of 
 the grand and sublime in nature, the experiment is worth the risk. Standing where 
 the painter sets him, the observer finds himself at once engulfed amidst the ruins of a 
 former world. He looks in vain for the smiling face of the creation of life and beauty 
 he has just quitted. It is vanished. Shut out from the busy world around by a 
 sudden turn of the coast, he is admitted to a contemplation of the workings of 
 the mysteries of nature. A corner of the veil is here raised. The exterior crust 
 of the globe is broken through; the workmanship of the great pillars of the frame 
 of earth is disclosed ; a glance is revealed of wonders, dazzling the imagination of the 
 poet, and baffling the conceptions of the philosopher. Romance, nor is it to be won- 
 dered at, has lent its aid to add to the interest of the scene. The legends of the early 
 ages tell us, that Fin M‘Cool, the leader of the once famed band of Irish heroes, 
 that embodied among themselves all that was chivalrous in spirit and gigantic in exe- 
 cution, proposing to extirpate by one great effort the enemies of his country, who 
 
 A 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 my) BENANDANAR, AND THE STACK. 
 
 harassed it by incessant depredations from the opposite shores of Britain, threw a 
 bridge across the ocean from the Giant’s Causeway to Staffa Island, a work as far supe- 
 rior in execution to the mechanism of a boasted modern railway, as the flights of 
 fancy are beyond the grandest realities of science. The enemy, seeing the barriers 
 of nature thus over-leaped, and their natural defences of ocean-stream and mountain- 
 cliff set at nought, had recourse to a higher power. They called on their enchanters, 
 by the irresistible agency of whose spell the labours of Fin M‘Cool and his followers were 
 destroyed. Benandanar was the spot fixed on by the relators of the tale for the perform- 
 ance of the Satanic orgies that wrought this deed of destruction. Imagination may pic- 
 ture the arch-wizard waving his wand over the scene from the summit of the moun- 
 tain-head, directing the workings of his inferior agents, gathered round the cauldron of 
 enchantment, in the cavity below—perhaps, on the very spot over which that broken 
 crag shoots up its spiked head in the centre of the scene; it may hear the yell of fiendish 
 exultation that swelled upwards through the air, when, overpowered by the superior 
 potency of the agents of darkness, the labours of the flower of Erin’s sons sunk, with a 
 despairing crash, into the abyss of waters. Still the basements of the mighty fabric re- 
 main, and the native guides show the tessellated pavement of the Giant’s Causeway, 
 and point to the spot on the horizon where Staffa should be seen, as indubitable proofs 
 of the truth of the tale of other times. i 
 
 The point on which the spectator is supposed to stand is taken from the 
 hill side, a little above the beach, in the direction of Ballintoy, the church 
 of which is discernible in the extreme distance. The high promontory to the 
 right is Benanbonar. Beyond the pointed craggy projection in the centre stands the 
 Stack, a mass disconnected with the mainland, and formed of columnar basalt of very 
 regular and beautiful structure. There is a salmon fishery near the place, to the pro- 
 prietor of which the visiter is indebted for the formation of the narrow winding pathway 
 which conducts him to this spot, one of the most beautiful on the coast, and now much 
 resorted to by pleasure parties during the summer months. No traveller who visits the 
 northern shores of Antrim should suffer Benandanar to remain unnoticed. 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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LOWER LAKE OF KILLARNEY, 
 
 COUNTY OF KERRY. 
 
 To enter upon a general description of the Lakes of Killarney, known as they now 
 are by such a variety of publications, and visited as they have been and ever will con- 
 tinue to be, as long as a taste for the picturesque and magnificent in nature holds its sway 
 over the human heart, by strangers from every part, not only of Great Britain but the 
 Continent, would be as uninteresting as it is superfluous. Our attention must be con- 
 fined to the scene immediately before us, taken from the high ground leadmg to the 
 ruins of Aghaboe Church, whence looking southwards, the eye commands the expanse of 
 the Lower Lake, the largest of the three, with the Island of Innisfallen in the centre of 
 the scene, while the mountains which form the back ground, Tomies and Glena to the 
 west, and Turk Mountain to the east, appear strangely reduced in their due proportions 
 of gigantic elevation, by the extreme distance at which they are surveyed. ‘The re- 
 spective heights of these mountains, which here seem almost to hide their diminished 
 heads, are 2150, 2090 and 1900 feet above the level of the sea at high water. The low 
 projecting points of land to the left are parts of Ross Island, on which stands the castle 
 of the same name, a place of much notoriety in history, but here excluded from sight 
 by its position. The view given conveys acorrect idea of the character of the Lower 
 Lake : calm, tranquil, expansive, on which the imagination can dwell with feelings of un- 
 disturbed repose, it presents a variety of objects which, when approached so nearly as to 
 admit of minute examination, would afford each of them a glorious piece of scenery for 
 the fancy of the poet to revel in, and the touches of the painter to perpetuate. The 
 Island of Innisfallen, here seemingly thrown upon the surface as if merely to break the 
 monotony of the surrounding expanse of water, is in itself a treasure-house of soul- 
 stirring associations, rich in the bounties of nature, that has bestowed upon it a soil by 
 which, were we to allow implicit credit to the assertion of the first tourist who gave the 
 world a description of these enchanting scenes in what he professed to be the words of 
 sober truth, “the fat of a beast feeding on its herbage is converted into a species of very 
 marrow, even too rich for the chandler’s use, without the admixture of a grosser kind’? 
 rich in a variety of trees of exuberant foliage—rich in the amphitheatric scenery that 
 arrests the gaze in every point of view—rich in historic recollections—rich in the me- 
 morials of monastic relics that breathe the odour of sanctity. It was the site of a once 
 celebrated monastery, the only existing traces of which are discoverable in a few plum 
 trees, growing close to some ruined walls, supposed to have been planted by the mem- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 A, LOWER LAKE OF KILLARNEY. 
 
 bers of the convent, and in an oratory standing on a projecting cliff, now converted into 
 a banquetting room, which commands a noble view of Ross Island, Mucrus Peninsula, 
 Mangerton, Turk and Glena Mountains. The annals of Innisfallen, one of the native 
 records of the country, take their name from this monastery, in which they were long 
 preserved. ‘They contain a general history of the world from the creation to the year 
 4:30 of the Christian era, after which they are confined to the History of Ireland. Ross 
 Island is memorable for an incident savouring strongly of romance, which occurred re- 
 specting it during the sanguinary war of 1641. Lord Muskerry, who commanded the 
 Irish in these quarters, took refuge there after the battle of Knockniclashy, and was 
 closely invested by the victorious General Ludlow. The castle was strong and well pro- 
 vided, affording every prospect to its defenders of being able to make a stubborn resist- 
 ance. Ludlow had caused a number of large boats to be brought up the river Laune, 
 to aid in the progress of his operations. One of these he sent round the island to as- 
 certain the most convenient places for effecting a landing. It was soon noticed by the 
 garrison. An old tradition had pronounced that the castle could not be taken until a 
 vessel of war was seen floating on the lake, a circumstance which its retired and Jand- 
 locked position caused to be looked on as an impossibility. Struck with the fulfilment of 
 the prophecy, the superstitious soldiers gave themselves up to despair, and surrendered a 
 place, which persevering gallantry, aided by its peculiar means of defence, would long 
 have rendered impregnable. 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
en eo ec ee ete hee RMON ew tees ae ace eee ri <a 511 i ba PR a eR 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 FOUR COURTS—KINGSTON CAVE, 
 
 COUNTY OF TIPPERARY. 
 
 This fine specimen of the subterraneous architecture of nature is situated on the hill of 
 Skeheenarinka, near Burnt-court, about midway between Caher and Mitchelstown. It 
 was discovered in the early part of the summer of 1833, by a poor cottier, who, while 
 quarrying stones in the hill side, remarked that some of the smaller pieces disappeared 
 through a cleft in the rock. Curiosity led him to examine it more closely. On clearing 
 away the rubbish he found an aperture sufficiently large to allow him to enter. Having 
 provided himself with a light he ventured in, and on proceeding found himself, after hav- 
 ing struggled through a narrow passage, unexpectedly in the middle of a capacious vault. 
 His further progress was checked by the extinction of his light, by which untoward ac- 
 cident he was left in total darkness, and might have paid with his life the forfeit of his 
 temerity, had -he not been discovered by his family, who, alarmed at his unusual absence, 
 went in quest of him where he had been working. The report of the discovery soon 
 Jed many to the place, anxious to investigate the secrets of this newly-discovered recess, 
 and provided with the means to gratify their curiosity without much risk. 
 
 On entering the cavity the passage is difficult ; being so low in many parts as to render 
 it necessary to proceed in a stooping posture. Proceeding for some distance in this 
 manner the visiter suddenly finds himself at the edge of a chasm which he has to descend 
 for about twenty feet by a ladder that conducts him into another confined passage, until 
 at length the sides of the cavern expand, the roof becomes elevated, and by the light of 
 the candles with which every one of the party, visiter and guide, is provided, a vaulted 
 chamber of considerable dimensions and singular structure is disclosed. From all parts 
 of the arched ceiling, which rises to a height of from twenty to thirty feet, stalactites of 
 various shapes hang down, while from below similar concretions rise from the floor in as 
 great variety of form. In some places those from above and below, uniting their stems, 
 form pillars that seem to support the roof ; In others the droppings from above, con- 
 creted into stone, assume the form of curtained draperies suspended in the most graceful 
 folds, through which the lights that happen to be placed behind them, penetrate with a 
 brilliancy of varied hues, splendid beyond description. In one of the passages a curtain 
 thus wrought by the hand of nature, extends entirely across the gallery, and prevented 
 all further progress until a cavity sufficient to admit a passage was broken through it, 
 In another place a similar curtain hangs down on one side in elegant folds, as if it had 
 been purposely drawn up to invite the curious investigator to pursue his researches, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 6 FOUR COURTS—KINGSTON CAVE. 
 
 The cavern branches out into a number of passages. Those as yet explored exhibit a 
 number of petrefactions similar in substance to the objects already described, and of every 
 variety of form. Many of the recesses still remain unexplored. The cavity or apartment 
 that forms the subject of the view here given, which is called the Four Courts, is dis- 
 tinguished by the gigantic and ungainly mass into which the stalactites have moulded 
 themselves, presenting a roughly hewn imitation of humanity, sufficiently resembling 
 the original to excite appalling ideas in a mind prone to superstition. On the left hand 
 are seen pillars formed from the union of the stalactites from above with the sparry con- 
 cretion rising from the bottom, and in the intermediate space are festoons and pendulous 
 incrustations produced by the droppings of the roofs, and terminating in graceful spires. 
 Nothing artificial, no bones, no ashes, no relics of the works of man, have yet been dis- 
 covered here, on which to founda conjecture as to the probability that this singular cavity 
 had been ever visited either for the purposes of religion, or as a place of retreat and 
 shelter, or whether it has now for the first time been revealed to the searching eye of 
 curiosity. 
 
 The land under which the cave lies is part of the estate of the Earl of Kingston, who, 
 with a praiseworthy regard to the interests of science, has taken every precaution to pre- 
 serve this newly-discovered wonder of nature from heedless or mischievous abuse. Its 
 entrance is not far from a cave of somewhat similar construction in the same hill side. 
 As far as that of Kingston is known, for several of its windings still remain unexplored, 
 no connexion between the two has been discovered. It isto be hoped that among the 
 numbers attracted to the spot, some persons will soon. be found sufficiently imbued with 
 the requisite knowledge to increase our stock of geological information by a satisfactory 
 account of the scientific secrets that, doubtless, lie buried in the recesses of this 
 
 cavern. 
 
 
 
 
 
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MEETING OF THE WATERS, 
 
 COUNTY OF WICKLOW. 
 
 The Meeting of the Waters, one of the most romantic spots in the County of Wick- 
 low, has been immortalized by the combination of the exquisite poetry of Moore, with 
 the most pathetic of the ancient Irish melodies. It is formed by the confluence of the 
 rivers Avonmore and Avonbeg, which unite about three miles south of the village of 
 Rathdrum, and eight north of the seaport of Arklow. The Avonmore, the larger of 
 the two, is fed by several small lakes, situate in the glens of the lofty table-land that 
 forms the interior of the north of the county, among the most noted of which are Lug- 
 gelagh and Glandelough, more familiarly known by the name of the Seven Churches. 
 On approaching the junction, the borders of the river present a fine illustration of what 
 may be effected by a judicious application of art, in aid of the natural beauties of moun- 
 tain scenery. ‘The river, as it winds along the rich and highly ornamented seat of Avon- 
 dale, exhibits a continually varying succession of the finest waving lines, overshadowed 
 in some parts with close coppice woods, in others opening into lawns studded with scat- 
 tered oak and ash of venerable dimensions, among which the Weymouth pine and the 
 graceful larch arrest the eye by their peculiar size and elegance of form. ‘Through the 
 valley thus embellished, the Avonmore glides at one time with a tranquil and silent cur- 
 rent, while at others it dashes with irresistible impetuosity over the rocks that attempt to 
 arrest its course by presenting their projecting cliffs against its stream. The Avonbeg 
 springs from the lake of Finogefin, near a pass in the same mountain group, called the 
 Wicklow Gap, and flows through the wild and lonely valley of Glenmalure, enclosed on 
 both sides by a rugged inaccessible boundary, whence all egress is shut up on the farther 
 extremity, except by a difficult pass over the summit. Here, in the times in which the 
 native tribes that long maintained uncontrolled dominion over this trackless region, and 
 harassed and alarmed the good citizens of Dublin by their sudden and repeated incur- 
 sions, was the seat of the mountain chieftain Teige M‘Hugh O’Byrn; here it was that 
 Spencer, a sanguinary politician, though a gentle poet, recommended to Queen Elizabeth 
 to destroy the hornet’s nest, by surrounding the glen with an iron pale of soldiery, pre- 
 venting egress, excluding the means of subsistence, and allowing the pent up clan the sad 
 alternative of wasting out life by famine, or yielding it to the halter of the executioner. 
 Here also, in more modern times, the insurgents of 1798, who persevered in setting the 
 power of Government at defiance after the plain country- had been wholly reduced to 
 submission, maintained for some time a harassing and desultory warfare, remembered now 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 8 MEETING OF THE WATERS. 
 
 only by acts of blood that led to no result beneficial to either party. At the distance of 
 three miles from Rathdrum, the road hitherto enclosed between rising grounds, opens : 
 into the valley of Cronebane, and displays the Meeting of the Waters in full beauty. . 
 On the right, the Avonbeg hurries its minor torrent over a rugged rocky bed; on the 
 left, the Avonmore rolls its tranquil flood in more majestic silence. In front stands a 
 small demesne, with a villa on it in the cottage style, occupying the tongue of land that 
 lies between the streams. Arustic seat formed of the moss grown root of an old tree, 
 on which Moore is said to have been seated when he composed the exquisite melody 
 which will live as long as poetry and music find an echo in the ear of taste and the 
 heart of feeling, is here shown to the visiter. The point from which the view has been 
 taken is the edge of a precipitous cliff, overlooking the bridge which crosses the waters 
 near their junction, and leads from Rathdrum to Arklow; close to it is the projecting 
 extremity of the demesne just noticed, whence the eye is carried over hills of a mild and 
 tranquil character near the fore-ground, displaying the velvet green of a rich pasturage, 
 and fading away in the distance into the aerial tints of more chastened hue that blend 
 with the clouds on the horizon’s verge. 
 
 In the neighbourhood are the copper mines of Cronebane, the lead mines of Glen- 
 malure, and the still more famed gold mine of Croghan Kinshela, whence it is said that i 
 the peasantry collected pieces of gold to upwards of the value of ten thousand pounds | 
 before the source of their wealth was generally known. ‘The mine, the works of which 
 were destroyed in 1798, has been relinquished as being found inadequate to defray its ex- 
 penses since it was entrusted to the care of agents employed by the Government. 
 
 A second Meeting of the Waters, formed by the confluence of the Avonbeg with the 
 Aughrim, a smaller stream which has its source in the south side of Lugnaquilla, the high- 
 est mountain in the county, is also worthy of the notice of those who visit these enchanting 
 scenes. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
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DEVIL’S GLEN, 
 
 COUNTY OF WICKLOW. 
 
 The romantic valley of the Devil’s Glen lies about midway between Newtown 
 Mount Kennedy, and the town of Wicklow. It is formed by lofty mountains, 
 rising so precipitously and with so small an interval between them, as to leave little 
 more space than what is occupied by the course of the Vartrey, which seems to have 
 carved out a passage for itself between them. A traveller from Scotland was particu- 
 larly struck with the character of this river; ‘“ It was the first mountain stream,” 
 he, ‘‘ that I had seen in Ireland ; and the heart-stirring sound was music to my spirits.” 
 The entrance to the glen is off the high road at Glenmore Castle, the seat of Mr. Synge. 
 On passing a neat cottage at the gate, the visitor is conducted by a road which leads 
 him along the tortuous windings of the stream in the bottom of the valley ; the aspect 
 of the scenery that rises round him, and appears to lock him in, is impressed with the 
 character of rugged sublimity, rather than of sylvan beauty. The northern side, which 
 overhangs him on the right hand as he proceeds, is indeed richly clothed with wood, 
 through the dense foliage of which masses of rocks occasionally protrude, forming re- 
 cesses, that have been converted into places of rest and recreation. A Moss House 
 or Rustic Temple, erected on one of those projections, presents, by the simple elegance 
 of its construction, a pleasing contrast to the wildness of the natural scenery with which 
 it is surrounded. ‘The southern side of the valley rises still more precipitously almost 
 from the water’s verge, scarcely affording space for the contracted pathway, which the 
 
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 proprietor of this side of the glen has wrought out along it. The mountain here is 
 almost wholly formed of bold projections of naked rock, relieved however, occasionally, 
 by tufts of green sward, of which advantage has been taken to improve the prospect by 
 planting forest trees; some of these seem to burst forth from the native rock. ‘The 
 windings of the glen add much to its effect ; yet though thus meandering and serpen- 
 tine, the observing visitor will be struck with the parallelism, and marked correspond- 
 ence of the geological appearance of the sides, suggesting the idea that the whole had 
 been at one period of time, a continuous unbroken mass, which had been rent asunder 
 by some great convulsion of nature. The elevation of the mountainous ranges, together 
 with the narrowness of the intervening space between them, excludes so much of the 
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 10 DEVIL’S GLEN. 
 
 sun’s rays from the bottom as to produce an everlasting gloom. It is from this, its 
 striking characteristic of sombre solitude, disturbed only by the noise of the torrent 
 that forces its way through it almost under the traveller’s foot, that the glen derives 
 its name. After treading the passage for upwards of a mile, further progress is cut off 
 by the waterfall at its extremeend. Here the Vartrey bursts over a ledge of perpendi- 
 cular rock, upwards of an hundred feet in height, and flings itself down in one broad 
 unbroken sheet into the basin underneath. The effect, particularly after a mountain swell 
 of the river, is magnificent. The great volume of water rising in front like a gigantic 
 pillar, ever fixed, yet ever restless, and dashing itself into a foaming spray below— 
 the heaving of the flood as it forces itself out from the cavity beneath into the channel 
 of the valley—the ceaseless roaring of the cataract, repeated and increased by the 
 echoes from the overhanging cliffs on every side—all conspire to stamp upon the place 
 a singularity of character peculiarly affecting. Many are the spots in this lovely 
 country that seem designed by the great artist who framed them, for the light and sprightly 
 revelries of fairy land. ‘This, as we stand before the fall, checked by its burst and 
 astounded by its thunders, is more fitted to recal to mind the gloomy orgies of the 
 northern enchanters, that rejoiced in the mysteries of darkness, making it their sport 
 to shoot down the foaming torrent, or flit along the howling blast. Few there are who 
 having visited the spot, do not return from it impressed with solemn emotions bordering 
 on veneration. It is observable here, as indeed, throughout the whole of the eastern 
 side of the county, that wherever the vegetation can shew itself, even when, as here, it 
 has to struggle into existence through the interstices of the barren rock, it presents a 
 luxuriance and vividness of hue unequalled elsewhere. ‘The green of the sward and of 
 the foliage is of a peculiar brilliancy of tint ; even the ivy leaf is magnificent of its 
 kind. In size it resembles some of the gigantic foliage of the tropics, and in brightness 
 much surpasses them. An idea of the superiority of those lesser specimens of nature’s 
 
 offspring, may be formed from the group of wild plants in the foreground of the view 
 efore us. 
 
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DOON POINT—ISLAND OF RATHLIN, 
 
 COUNTY OF ANTRIM. 
 
 The Island of Rathlin or Raghery is acurious offset of Ireland. It rises in the 
 great Northern Ocean, not more than two miles from the nearest point of the northern 
 coast of the County of Antrim, stretching out in the shape of a crescent, the horns of 
 which, pointing towards the south, form a bay, which is the usual place of landing. 
 Detached as it thus is from the mainland, it is still more isolated by the nature of the 
 intervening channel, the waves of which, kept in an almost incessant agitation by the 
 tide of the Northern Ocean that pours through it, render the cross passage much more 
 difficult than might be conjectured from the mere extent of water to be traversed. 
 The inhabitants, therefore, live much to themselves. ‘The island forms a single parish 
 and a single estate, the proprietor of which, though he assumes not the name, has, from 
 the circumstances of the loneliness of the spot and the unity of possession, much of the 
 patriarchal character of the Scottish laird of by-gone times. He is the judge, the 
 arbiter, the director, the adviser of the entire population, who look up to him, and 
 observe his biddings, with a respectful acquiescence, in the production of which love of 
 his person and character forms the chief ingredient. Simple, laborious, and honest, the 
 natives of this sequestered spot possess a degree of affection for it, very surprising to a 
 stranger. In conversation they speak of Ireland as a foreign country. The extreme 
 punishment for repeated offences is banishment to the continent—a sentence dreaded 
 almost worse than death, and found to be fully adequate for all the purposes of insular 
 police. Yet, strange to say, though united under a single head, and, most probably, 
 sprung from the same parent stock, the inhabitants of the two extremities or horns of 
 the island differ singularly in their habits of life. The Kenramer, or western end, is 
 cragey and mountainous, though the land in its valleys is rich and well cultivated ; but 
 the coast is destitute of harbours. A solitary native is here often seen fixing his rope 
 to a stake driven into the summit of a precipice overhanging the ocean, and thence 
 swinging himself down the face of the rock, alone and unassisted, in quest of the nests 
 of sea-fowl. Hence, activity, strength, and self-dependence, are eminent among the 
 natives of this quarter. Want of intercourse with strangers has preserved many of their 
 peculiarities, and the aboriginal Gaelic still continues to be the general language among 
 them. The Ushet, or south-eastern end, on the contrary, is barren in its soil, but more 
 open, being indented with several little harbours; hence its inhabitants are chiefly 
 fishermen and petty traders, accustomed to cross the Slunk-na-marra—the name of the 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 iW DOON POINT—ISLAND OF RATHLIN. 
 
 channel that separates the island from the rest of Antrim—for the purposes of their 
 little traffic. Intercourse with strangers has thus rubbed off much of their originality, 
 and the English tongue, strongly tinged with the Scottish dialect, is well understood and 
 generally spoken. It is with this latter point we are now most deeply concerned. 
 Doon Point, the subject of the view to which the description relates, is the most re- 
 markable of the promontories, that project from the eastern side of the island on 
 looking northward from Ushet Haven. ‘This point has long been an object of interest 
 to the geologist from the peculiarity of its construction. Like many other parts of the 
 northern coast of Ireland, it presents an assemblage of columnar basalt ; but while in 
 other places this construction assumes the form of perpendicular shafts, its disposition 
 here partakes of every kind of irregularity—some of the piles bemg perpendicular, 
 some horizontal, and others curved. The base of the promontory is a natural pier or 
 mole: above it is a combination of columns, of a curved form, apparently acquired in 
 conformity with the shape of the surface on which they rest, and inducing an opinion 
 that they were so moulded when in a softened state. Above both these stages is a 
 variety of columns, disposed in different forms, and partaking of every position in 
 which basalt has been discovered in other places. Carrying the eye forwards, in a 
 northern direction, the ruins of an old castle present themselves on the promontory 
 which forms the north-eastern angle of the island. Hither it was that Robert Bruce, 
 afterwards destined to be the deliverer of his country from the degrading trammels of 
 English subjugation, fled for shelter ; and, fortifying himself in the castle, which still 
 bears his name, maintained a bold and successful stand against his enemies. ‘The castle 
 is an object of interest to the man of science as well as to the historian. The lime, 
 used in the construction of its walls, was burned with sea coal, as is evident from the 
 cinders dicoverable among the mortar—affording a proof that this mineral was in 
 common use at a period much farther back than that commonly given as the date of its 
 discovery. Detached as the island of Rathlin is, by nature and the elements, from the 
 surrounding busy world of man, yet it early became an object of desirable acquisition, 
 both as a place of religion and as a military settlement. St. Coemgall, in the early part 
 of the fifth century, landed on it with the intent of building a cell ; but he was forth- 
 with seized by a band of thirty armed men, who, leading him by the hands, most cere- 
 moniously, but most peremptorily, marched him out of the island. In a succeeding 
 century St. Columba was more successful: he founded a church here. The island was 
 afterwards invaded and ravaged successively by the Danes, the Scotch, and the English ; 
 in the possession of the last named of whom it ultimately rested. A most atrocious and 
 unmanly massacre is recorded as having been perpetrated here during one of these 
 predatory invasions, by a wretch of the name of M‘Nalready, who is said to have flung 
 a number of old women over the cliffs, at a place called Glar-na-Calleagh. ‘The Car- 
 rickfergus men also signalised themselves by a sanguinary invasion of the island, during 
 the reign of Elizabeth. 
 
 
 
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THE DARGLE, 
 
 COUNTY OF WICKLOW. 
 
 No spot in Ireland has been so frequently visited by the traveller, described by the 
 tourist, or painted by the artist, as the Dargle. Its position, in the vicinity of the 
 metropolis, from which it is but a pleasant morning’s drive distant, and at the entrance 
 of the county which contains so many objects of attraction, renders it a place of per- 
 petual resort in the summer. During that season the road leading to it, presents more 
 the bustle and vivacity of an approach to a country fair, than the entrance to a secluded 
 and uninhabited valley. The Dargle is a deep, dark glen, formed by a fissure between 
 two mountains, the sides of which are thickly clothed with wood, chiefly oak. Irish 
 etymologists derive its name from Dair Glen, the valley of oaks ; the mere English 
 scholar, without travelling into the obscurities of an ancient language, would deem it but 
 a contraction of the Dark Glen: either term is sufficiently indicative of its peculiarity 
 of character. On entering the gate, the visitor is at once involved in a sylvan wilder- 
 ness, at the bottom of a dark winding vale, whose steep sides shut out every object but 
 the foliage of the trees that grow on either side, and the small opening of the sky 
 above. At his feet a noisy stream, visible at intervals, but often known only by the 
 murmuring of its struggles to force a passage through the rugged masses of granite 
 that form its channel, winds through the valley. The waters which form it are com- 
 posed of those of the Glencree River, rising in the north-western angle of Rathdrum 
 Barony, and of the Glenisloreane, proceeding from Warhill, not far from the source 
 of the Liffey, and which, after passing through Lord Powerscourt’s demesne, becomes 
 splendidly conspicuous in its burst over the waterfall there. The two rivers uniting 
 after the fall, enter the Dargle. A little lower down they are met by the Glencullen 
 river, whence the triple stream, now called the Bray water, falls into the Irish Sea, to 
 the east of the town of Bray, after having formed the boundary line between the coun- 
 ties of Dublin and Wicklow. 
 
 On proceeding for some distance through the glen, the spot presents itself from 
 which the view before us is taken. In a hollow, formed of impending fragments of 
 granite, fringed with oak and mountain ash, the stream breaks forth as if from beneath 
 a ledge of caverned rocks, from which it rolls in a succession of foaming rapids. To 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 14 THE DARGLE. 
 
 
 
 the right hand, elevated on a projecting point, whence also a scene equally picturesque, 
 though different in aspect, may be viewed, appears a Moss-house, bosomed among the 
 highest branches of the lofty trees that shoot up on every side around it, while still 
 more high, the foliage of the wood that clothes the summit of the glen overhangs and 
 shadows it. Though the point of view here given is decidedly the most imposing as to 
 picturesque effect, the progress through the glen discloses several other openings of 
 great beauty. One of these, called the Lover’s Leap, is formed by a bare rock which 
 rises perpendicularly from the very bottom of the valley, and presents a view of a 
 theatre of wood, formed by a recess in the bank on the opposite side. In the fore- 
 ground, the river breaks over fantastic knolls of broken rock, the sparklings of its white 
 surge brilliantly contrasting with the grey stones that interrupt its current, and the 
 dark foliage that descends to the water’s verge. Beyond appear the grounds of Powers- 
 court demesne and the adjacent country, with its groups of forest trees or waving 
 lines of plantation. In the extreme distance the mountain ranges retiring in successive 
 lines, in every variety of altitude and clothing, form an outline of exquisite beauty. 
 The Moss-house above described, is the favourite place in which parties who visit the 
 place enjoy their rural banquets; many however, prefer the green plot in front of the 
 opening through which the water is seen to force its way. Often every level spot is 
 occupied by its own group of visitors, whose lively dresses and gay carols, give a new 
 zest to the pleasures of the scene. ) Until lately, the only passage through the Dargle, 
 was by a foot path, in which art had judiciously confined itself to an imitation of nature, 
 such as might be supposed to have been caused by the repeated pressure of the foot 
 of the stranger, who came to survey its beauties, or the lonely angler who strolled along 
 it. A striking alteration was made at the period of the late King’s visit to Ireland. 
 Lord Powerscourt, anxious to afford His Majesty a view of this romantic and much talked 
 of dell, at the least possible expense of royal ease and comfort, had caused a carriage 
 road to be cut through it. The effect of an alteration so uncharacteristic, has been sadly 
 prejudicial ; and when the mischief was done, the King left Powerscourt without visiting 
 the place. However, let but a few years pass over, and nature, true to herself, will work 
 out her own renovation. The ill-devised conceptions of human vanity will be obliter- 
 ated: the simple footway, with its fringe of violets and blue bells, will re-appear when 
 the royal coach road is forgotten. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
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KENBAAN CASTLE, 
 
 COUNTY OF ANTRIM. 
 
 On approaching Ballycastle from the Carey Mountains, the promontory of Ken- 
 baan is one of the most conspicuous objects. The snowy whiteness of its cliffs, whence 
 it derives its name, which signifies in English the White Head, and its boldness of 
 projection, standing forth as it does at right angles from the general line of coast, at 
 once arrest attention. A nearer survey discloses features still more worthy of admira- 
 tion. A mass of chalk of a furlong in length, appears on the face of the cliff bro- 
 ken off at both extremities. ‘Towards the east, it lies between layers of basalt above 
 and below, between which it forms a sort of tongue that loses itself in the rock by 
 which it is enclosed ; to the west the bed of chalk extends into the sea, forming a sharp 
 narrow peninsula. The rugged and craggy isthmus by which it is connected with the 
 mainland was judiciously chosen as the site of a castle, the only parts of which 
 that have survived the depredations of time, are the gate and the massive walls of the 
 donjon or keep. ‘Tradition states that the building was originally erected by the Irish 
 sept of the M‘Hendricks; but as the wreck of its ruins bears a striking resemblance to 
 the castles erected by the first English settlers along the coast from the Boyne to the 
 Bann, its origin may with greater probability be attributed to some of these ; or, if it 
 be an Irish structure, it was at least erected on the plan, and therefore after the arrival 
 of these adventurers. About the beginning of the reign of Elizabeth it was held by 
 the Scottish clan of M‘ Allister, who arrived in Ireland with the M*Donnells from Can- 
 tyre. In 1568, the M‘Allisters entered into a conspiracy against the English quartered 
 in these parts, and, in an encounter which took place between them, two English horse- 
 men were slain; in revenge for which the English soldiers killed Ranell Oge M*<Allis- 
 ter Carragh, the chief of the sept. ‘To quell the commotion incident on his death, the 
 governor of Carrickfergus, Captain William Piers, who was also seneschal of the Liberty 
 of Antrim, proceeded at the head of a body of troops to the Glynns, where he seized 
 on three of the M‘Allisters, one of whom he hung in chains, and compelled Alexander, 
 the new chief, to make his submission to the Queen. Since that time the power of the 
 family rapidly declined, though the name is still to be found in the country. The sin- 
 gular position of this promontory, which gives it a commanding view of several of the 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 16 KENBAAN CASTLE. 
 
 great headlands and other striking objects along the coast, renders it now the scene of 
 many afestive party during the cheery days of summer ; and few will hesitate to give the 
 preference to it, even in its present mouldering and dilapidated state, frequented as it is 
 by bands of the gay, the intelligent, and the curious, associated at the convivial table spread 
 on the sunny sward, or sauntering in groups among its cliffs and precipices, to what it had 
 been even in its most palmy state of baronial splendor, bristling with battlements, and 
 with no sound to greet the ear but the monotonous tread of the sentinel on the ram- 
 parts, or the ominous note of the warder’s horn at the gate. The splendid panoramic 
 prospect of which this spot forms the central point of view, sufficiently accounts for the 
 frequency of visits to it. Westward is seen the rock and swinging bridge of Carricka- 
 rede, backed by the hill of Knocksoghey, and further still Sheep Island and the project- 
 ing head of Ballintoy, with its “‘ modest church and heaven-pointing spire.” Kastward 
 the eye commands the whole line of coast to Ballycastle and its collieries, as far as the 
 magnificent promontory of Fair Head, which boldly terminates the view. The Island 
 of Rathlin spreads itself out in front, at such a distance eg to admit the view, in favourable 
 weather, of many of its most striking features. The whole forms a prospect, on which, 
 from its extent of view and variety of character, the eye long delights to dwell with 
 undiminished interest. Many isolated scenes along this fine coast may excel Ken- 
 baan: none other comprehends such a number of beauties in a single survey. Beneath 
 the Castle ruins, and on each side of the chasm which formed its natural defence, seve- 
 ral large whin-dykes can be traced, and in every direction the bare and rugged sides of 
 the promontory are shattered and rent asunder. Masses of basalt, combined occasion- 
 ally with fragments of chalk and flints, are to be seen protruding through its numerous 
 fissures. ‘The entire mass of chalk is capped with basalt, the summit of which rises to a 
 height of three hundred feet. 
 
 The visitor, who, after having feasted his imagination on all that presents itself to his 
 view from the summit of Kenbaan, quits it without further investigation, forfeits the en- 
 joyment of no small portion of thegratification the spot is capable of affording. Beneath 
 the head are numerous caverns excavated from the chalky cliff, extremely beautiful and 
 curious. The main drawback upon this part of the prospect is the difficulty of getting 
 to them, for they can only be visited in a boat. They are, however, perfectly dry, and 
 are used by the fishermen as boat houses in winter, and as places for building their small 
 craft in summer. One of them, called Gracey Staple’s Cave, between Kenbaan and 
 Ballycastle, is remarkable for the columnarity of its sides, in which respect it may be con- 
 sidered as a miniature representation of the celebrated cave of Fingall in Statfa. On 
 the western side of the promontory isa fissure in the cliff, known by the epithet of 
 Buly, and said to be the impression of a blow made by the sword of the hero, 
 Cuchullin. An excursion by water, in fine weather, from Ballycastle to Rathlin, and 
 thence along the coast by Kenbaan to Ballintoy, is replete with interest both to the ad- 
 mirer of romantic scenery and to the scientific investigator of the mysteries of nature. 
 
 
 
 
 
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 COOMEEN DUFF, OR COOME DUFF, 
 
 KILLARNEY. 
 
 The singular variety of landscape scenery which the Killarney Lakes, with their 
 adjacent glens and mountain passes, afford, has been remarked by most intelligent 
 tourists, and is, perhaps, without a parallel in any locality of the same extent in the 
 British isles. 
 
 In this delightful little region nature has chosen to exhibit herself in all her various 
 and most characteristic aspects ; and whatever may be the peculiar tastes of her votaries, 
 who go thither to worship at her shrine—whether they most delight to see her in her 
 sublime grandeur or in her exquisite lovliness, or prefer her in some mixed character or 
 happy transition from these extremes—they are here sure to be satisfied beyond their 
 most sanguine anticipations, and to their heart’s most full content. 
 
 As an example of this remarkable variety of beauty, and as a contrast to the scene 
 in our former number, we have selected the subject of our present illustration. The 
 first is no less remarkable for cheerful beauty than this for solemn grandeur ; and as it 
 is much less known to visiters and tourists than its merits deserve, we shall, we think, 
 do them a service by placing it before their notice. 
 
 This scene, which is the western termination of the valley in which the Upper Lake 
 is situated, is a spacious and desolate mountain amphitheatre, surrounded on all sides 
 but the east by the grand, and, in most parts, inaccessible sides of Baum, Coombin, and 
 Magillicuddy’s Reeks. Two small island-studded pools, which are supplied by the sur- 
 rounding mountain streams, and which constitute the first link of the chain of the 
 Killarney Lakes, appear in the silent and uninhabited desert ; and the connecting 
 rivulet is seen in front, winding along its solitary course in quiet beauty. 
 
 The view is taken from the road connecting the Pass of Dunlo with Lord 
 Brandon’s Cottage and the Upper Lake. The effect which the artist has chosen, is that 
 usual immediately after sunset, and which, perhaps, most poetically harmonizes with the 
 character of a scene in which every feature contributes to excite sentiments of so- 
 lemnity and grandeur. 
 
 The Irish name of this interesting spot is, as usual, highly characteristic—it signifies 
 
 the Black or Gloomy Hollow. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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WATERFALL AT POWERSCOURT, 
 
 COUNTY OF WICKLOW. 
 
 The Waterfall at Powerscourt will ever be a prime object of attraction to the visiter 
 of the romantic scenery of Wicklow, both from the extraordinary height from which its 
 waters are projected, and from the scenery through which it is approached. It is si- 
 tuated at the extreme end of Lord Powerscourt’s Deer Park, about three miles from 
 the mansion house. ‘The road to it is picturesque and varied. ‘The entrance commands 
 a fine view of the wild vale of Glencree. The prospect in this direction is bleak and 
 desolate, bounded on each side by rugged mountains, and closed, at its extremity, by the 
 lofty summit of Kippure. On turning in the contrary direction, the contrast is pecu- 
 liarly striking. Proceeding into the park, the eye is presented with a scene of sylvan 
 splendour, in which nature seems to have robed herself in her richest garb of verdure. 
 The place is enclosed with a rampart of mountain land, rising steeply, but not precipi- 
 tously, from the plain, and forming a natural amphitheatre, thickly clothed with oak 
 trees, that cover the ascent. At the extreme end of the park, where the mountain 
 forbids further progress, the Waterfall is seen, falling from the summit, over a perpendi- 
 cular rock, from a height of more than three hundred feet; yet the effect is more 
 striking from the elevation of the fall, and its contrast with the surrounding rich foliage, 
 than from the quantity of water it sends down. ‘To see it to most advantage, therefore, 
 it should be visited after a heavy fall of rain; for then the river Glenisloraine, which 
 forms it, rushes over the precipice in a torrent of magnificent plenitude, while in dry 
 seasons the stream is scarcely seen to trickle down the surface of the bare rock. Near 
 the bottom of the fall a rustic bridge has been thrown across the rivulet that bursts from 
 the natural basin into which the torrent from above throws itself; the visiter who 
 places himself on this bridge, between five and six o’clock of a sunny summer’s morning, 
 will be rewarded for his early rising, by the view of a lovely miniature rainbow, formed 
 by the spray dashed from the rocks against which the water strikes. On an adjoining 
 bank is a neat cottage building, laid out for the reception of parties who wish to take 
 refreshments while contemplating the beauties of the scene. 
 
 Steep as the mountain is at this place, a pathway has been formed up it to the top ; 
 the ascent, however, is difficult and dangerous. A young man, who ventured to climb 
 it, having lost the track, fell over the projecting rock, and was dashed to pieces. Yet 
 those who have strength and nerve to face the difficulty will be rewarded by a noble 
 sight—the mountain, rough and thickly weoded to the summit of the fall, here becomes 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
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 20 WATERFALL AT POWERSCOURT. 
 
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 a sloping bank, covered with a thick soft sward of moss and heath, which leads, with 
 comparative ease, to the summit of Djouce Mountain, marked by a cairn, whence a 
 most extended view of a great part of the country, and of that of Dublin, with its bay 
 and islands, can be enjoyed. ‘Those debarred, by want of energy or strength, from this 
 rich feast of nature in its wildness, may indulge in a prospect not less pleasing, though 
 less romantic, by returning from the Fall through a secluded pathway, which leads to 
 Roundwood. 
 
 The views of the beautiful object here exhibited have been generally taken from a position 
 in front, where, though it is seen in full, the surrounding scenery is limited and confined 
 by the intervention of the mountain; that which is here presented is taken from an 
 elevated position on one side, and, though affording a less perfect view of the waters, 
 it allows the eye to traverse the greater portion of the park, with its clumps of trees 
 scattered over the level part; the amphitheatre of oak wood rising in front in all its 
 richness, and the heathy tops of the blue mountains in the distance forming the back 
 ground. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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 GAP OF DUNLOE, 
 
 COUNTY OF KERRY. 
 
 Near the bridge which crosses the Laune, after it quits the Lower Lake of Killarney, 
 stands the Castle of Dunloe, raising its ancient battlements above the mass. of dense 
 foliage in which it is embosomed. It seems to have been originally erected for the. 
 double purpose of guarding the pass of the river, and a defile in the neighbouring 
 mountain chain, with which it is backed. Perched on the summit of a small conical 
 hill, the point of which has been cut away to afford space for the buildings, its position 
 enabled it to set at defiance the puny machinery of war that could be brought against it 
 previously to the invention of artillery. During the insurrection of the Earl of Des- 
 mond, in the unsettled reigns of Henry VIII. and Elizabeth, it suffered considerably, 
 but was restored to its ancient state of defence about the time of Sir George Carew’s 
 administration in Munster. In the course of the succeeding civil war, in 1641, it was 
 besieged by the parliamentary forces under Ludlow, when the gallant defence made by 
 its inmates brought on the demolition of the greater part of it, from the violence of the 
 bombardment. It has not, however, suffered the fate of too many of the baronial 
 structures in this country, by being left exposed and neglected to the injuries of time, 
 and the dilapidation of the neighbouring peasantry ; on the contrary, it has been judi- 
 ciously repaired by its proprietor, Major Mahony, who, while he modernised it sufi- 
 ciently to make it a residence adequate to the improved state of domestic society of the 
 present day, has retained enough of the ancient structure to preserve the character of 
 gloomy and military grandeur, so attractive to the antiquarian and to the lover of the 
 picturesque. Itself a fine object, standing forth as it does in a prominent point of the 
 landscape, it commands from its summit a magnificent range of scenery, both moun- 
 tainous and champaign, the more pleasing because the abundance of the surrounding 
 woods prevents any extended prospect from the lower apartments. 
 
 The pass, of which the castle was the key, lies between the mountains of Tomies and 
 M‘Gillycuddy’s Reeks. It is approached by a well-constructed mountain road. ‘The 
 hills on each side of the opening, which are but lesser projections of the great mountain 
 masses whence they originate, are called the Holly and Bull mountains. At the en- 
 trance into the gap these mountains close into a narrow fissure, with its sides nearly per- 
 pendicular. On penetrating a little way, the eye rests on a romantic glen, with a small 
 lake in its centre, the waters of which derive an appearance of extreme darkness from 
 the shadow of the lofty mountain that overhangs tt. As the visiter proceeds, the valley 
 
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 24.4 GAP OF DUNLOE. 
 
 contracts, until he attains a pass so confined that there is scarcely room for the scanty 
 pathway which leads him through it. The sides here rise precipitously ; the rocks at 
 bottom are flung around in scattered disjointed masses, while those above seem to de- 
 nounce immediate destruction to the stranger who ventures to intrude into this solitude 
 of desolation. ‘The effect of a thunder storm is here sublime. A small stream insi- 
 nuates itself through the whole of the chasm, across which two bridges, of a structure 
 correspondent with the general character of the place, have been thrown. 
 
 The entire glen, about four miles in length, from the entrance to the vale of Cooma- 
 duff, opens into a long extended tract of low land, surrounded by elevated grounds, and 
 having, at its western extremity, a very considerable lough called the Red Trout Lake. 
 Opposite the termination of the Gap is a fine waterfall, of considerable height, and also 
 enjoying the advantage, not common with other falls in Ireland, of being always plenti- 
 fully supplied. Its waters serve to feed a succession of small lakes, studded with verdant 
 islets, occupying the whole length of the valley. 
 
 Remarkable as the Gap of Dunloe is for its romantic scenery, it is not less so for its 
 agricultural qualities, presenting one among many of the remarkable combinations of 
 luxuriant fertility of soil with great wildness of scenic character peculiar to Ireland. To a 
 considerable height along their sides the mountains that form the pass are clothed with a 
 rich variety of wholesome herbage, on which sheep could not fail to fatten; yet Mr. 
 Radcliff, the celebrated agriculturist, states, that not a sheep is to be seen here, though 
 much of the mountain side, inaccessible to black cattle from its steepness, is singularly 
 calculated for sheep or goats. This is strange. 
 
 
 
 
 

 
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 CASTLE HOWARD, 
 
 COUNTY OF WICKLOW. 
 
 The Vale of Ovoca awakens sentiments of a subdued and tranquil kind. There 
 nature reposes in her most peaceful mood. ‘The elevated spots whichsur round it excite 
 more animated emotions. Castle Howard, standing conspicuous on one of those, leads 
 the mind to blend together the ideas of the age of chivalry with those of the highly 
 polished refinement of the present day. The mansion is the residence of the Hon. 
 Colonel Howard, a branch of the Wicklow family, which dates its origin in this country 
 from a physician who filled the chair of medicine in Dublin College, in the reign of 
 Charles II. The architecture of it is designed on the principle of uniting the characters 
 of a castellated place of defence and a monastic structure—a combination difficult of 
 attainment, but of striking effect when, as in the present instance, it has been well con- 
 ceived and skilfully executed. The entrance to the demesne is through an arched gate- 
 way, bearing on its summit the crest of the family, a lion with an arrow in its mouth. 
 The buttresses of the gate rest on a bridge of a single arch, thrown over the Avon- 
 more. Near the entrance is a cottage built in a very chaste and appropriate taste ; close 
 to which, on a green hillock, overhanging a rivulet, is a model in miniature of the castle 
 itself. The avenue, cut mostly through the solid rock, winds round the hill for nearly 
 a mile, until at length it brings the visiter, in its circuitous course, to the front of the 
 building, majestically fixed on the very summit, with a fine lawn gently sloping away 
 towards the river. 
 
 The outward appearance of the castle excites the expectation of an interior corres- 
 ponding in solemnity of arrangement and deficiency of conveniencies with the characters 
 of antiquity so strongly impressed upon it. Such expectation will be disappomted, to a 
 certain degree, on entering. To examine the inside of the building, after the survey of 
 its outer form, is to contemplate the elegancies of modern refinement through the loop- 
 holes of antiquity. ‘The characteristic features of a highly embellished fabric of the 
 fifteenth century are here successfully rendered subservient to arrangements adapted to 
 the less imposing, but more pleasing, habits of modern life. The ceilings of some of the 
 apartments are finely wrought in pendants and tracery. ‘The adoption of the ancient 
 inglish style of architecture is peculiarly judicious in a mountainous and romantic 
 country like Wicklow. From the summit of the tower of this building, so finely placed 
 on a most commanding eminence, in the midst of a landscape rich in natural beauties, a 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 D4, CASTLE HOWARD. 
 
 variety of prospects, seldom equalled in Ireland, perhaps in Europe, can be enjoyed with 
 the rapidity of a panoramic survey. 
 
 The view of the castle here given affords not only a good idea of the building itself, 
 but of the character of much of the surrounding country. The spectator, placed on 
 the spot which the artist had made his station, looks down on the Vale of Ovoca, and 
 the Meeting of the Waters, redolent of the poetry of Moore, and the touching melody 
 the native minstrel from which the poet drew his inspiration. Thence, also, his eye takes 
 in much of the hilly district of Cronebane and Ballymurtagh, till it exhausts its energies 
 in tracing the succession of receding elevations till they vanish in the distance. Who 
 could imagine that the gently waving outline of undulating surface here spread out 
 before him, concealed inexhaustible stores of nature’s subterraneous treasures—that the 
 hardy miner was toiling, the grating machinery at work, the furnace blazing, the shaft 
 disgorging its rugged and unsightly ore, from within the bowels of those hills whose 
 
 aspect speaks only of the pasturing of sheep, the musings of poets, and the moonlight 
 revelries of the fairy world ? 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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GOOGANE BARRA, 
 
 COUNTY OF CORK. 
 
 The hermitage, or, as the word Googane is rendered by some etymologists, the trifle 
 of St. Barry, founder and tutelary saint of the Cathedral Church of Cork, lies concealed 
 among the ridges of the great mountain chain which separates the County of Cork from 
 that of .Kerry. It maybe approached either from the City of Cork, by way of 
 Macroom and Inchegeela, from which last it is distant six miles nearly due west, or 
 from Bantry, whence it is about ten miles distant in a northern direction. 
 
 Those who proceed to Killarney through Cork will do well to take the former Ime of 
 
 road, proceeding to Bantry, whence it is easy to penetrate to the Lakes by Kenmare ; 
 on the other hand, tourists returning from Killarney to Cork should set out from 
 Bantry : being thus, in either case, enabled to vary the route agreeably—to explore the 
 magnificent pass of Looleah, or Glen of the Leaping Deer—the picturesque, yet un- 
 noticed, Lake of Inchegeela—and, above all, the awe-inspiring scene now before us, of 
 which any illustration, either by the pencil or the pen, however faithful, spirited, and 
 ample, must fail to produce an adequate impression. 
 _ At ashort distance from the Pass of the Leaping Deer, it is advisable to quit wheeled 
 carriages and to proceed on horseback or on foot along an indifferent bridle road, 
 which, after crossing one or two shallow streams, turns at a sharp angle. Suddenly and 
 unexpectedly the lake—dark, yet lustrous as highly polished marble—its wooded islet, 
 and its precipitous crags crowded together over its brink, burst upon the view im 
 gloomy grandeur. Tew there are who do not pause involuntarily on this spot to give 
 silent testimony, by a total abstraction from all but the scene before them, of the intensity 
 of feeling excited by the opening glance of the chosen solitude of Finbar. The ver- 
 dure of the islet floating upon the glassy surface of the waters, and the dense foliage of 
 the grove of broad-leaved ash trees hanging over it, contrast finely with the bare and 
 craggy ramparts of the opposite shores, where the rocks present some resemblance, in 
 their arrangement, to those that overhang the Lake of Thun, as seen from the Castle 
 of Spiez, in Switzerland. ) 
 
 On reaching the islet by a narrow causeway, the rude remains of ecclesiastical 
 buildings lie scattered around. ‘The most remarkable of them are vaulted cells, like 
 binns, on a large scale; their use has not been very clearly ascertained. Westward, 
 upon the extreme left, is heard the enlivening roar of the Luvius or Lee, which rises 
 
 from this lake, bearing with it an immense volume of water at its very source. On 
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 26 GOOGANE BARRA. 
 
 every side rise, or rather stand up, ridges of projecting rocks, inaccessible, on the south 
 and west, to the foot even of a mountain goat, worn with continual torrents, and bearing 
 scarcely a lichen on their sterile sides. An intervening crag hides from view the pass 
 through which entrance had been gained. A sense of. desolation—the feeling of a total 
 severance from mankind——of utter abandonment, now forces itself on the imagination. 
 Escape seems impossible ; so that, as is quaintly observed by an old historian of Cork, 
 ‘‘ Tf a person was carried into it blindfold, it would seem almost impossible, without the 
 wings of an eagle, to get out, the mountain making round it, as it were, a wall of rocks 
 some hundred yards high.” ‘The same writer observes that—‘ This lake is environed 
 by a stupendous amphitheatre of lofty hills, composed of perpendicular bleached rocks, 
 in some places boldly overhanging the basin. In the crevices of the rocks grow yews 
 and evergreens. In fair weather there are several rills, that quietly glide down, with a 
 murmuring noise, into the lake ; but, after heavy rains, the whole enclosure becomes a 
 perfect chaos: the water, from the top of the mountain, tumbling all around in cata- 
 racts, with a roaring noise like thunder, which makes a most awful and majestic scene.” 
 
 The nursery tale of the Well of the World’s End is recalled to the mind by a visit 
 to this place as vividly as when its recital first amused our childish fancy. The lonely 
 anchorite’s last refuge from the vanities of busy life is attained. Standing within the 
 eirclet of waters, round whose verge solitude and gloom hold undisturbed dominion, he 
 feels as if he had reached the utmost limits habitable by man—the extreme point of 
 animal and vegetable existence. | 
 
 To the lonely angler we are most probably indebted for the revival of a knowledge of 
 this grand and majestic recess, the object formerly of veneration to the admirer of 
 austere sanctity, and now of admiration to the eye of taste. The Lee is one of the 
 first salmon and trout streams in Ireland; and, with moderate skill, may be fished suc- 
 cessfully from Googane to the suburbs of Cork. In the lake, which is plentifully 
 stocked, trout of several species are to be found. 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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REENDONOGAN LAKE—BANTRY BAY, 
 
 COUNTY OF CORK. 
 
 In Irish topography the name of lough or lake is often given to a land-locked arm of 
 the sea, particularly where the entrance is contracted and difficult. This is the case 
 with Reendonogan. It is, in reality, a creek or narrow inlet at the extremity of 
 Bantry bay or Bere haven. ‘This magnificent estuary, lying in the remotest part of the 
 County of Cork, forms a basin of great extent and grandeur, in which the whole fleet 
 of an empire might ride at ease, protected from every change of weather. At its 
 opening, between Crow Head and Sheep Head, it is twelve miles across, and it pene- 
 trates inland, through the centre of the barony of Bere and Bantry, to the distance of 
 more than twenty. It contains two large islands, that of Bere near the entrance, and, 
 at its innermost extremity, that of Whiddy, between which latter and the shore are 
 those called Hog, Eagle’s, Stuoke or Coney, and Chapel islands. The shores by 
 which the bay is surrounded, are formed of steep rocky prominences, varied by a few, 
 and but few, stretches of level beach, in some of which a rich coralline sand is found, 
 and raised in large quantities for agricultural purposes. The island of Whiddy presents 
 a surface of great inequality. Its soil is uncommonly rich. It is mostly appropriated 
 as a deer park, but it also feeds sheep, remarkable both for size and excellence of 
 flavour, a union of qualifications rather uncommon. It also can boast of some good 
 orchards, and, what is still more uncommon in Ireland, hop-yards. ‘The grandeur of 
 the panoramic scene which displays itself to a spectator here, or on the water, is greatly 
 enhanced by the rugged range of the surrounding shores, ‘particularly that on the 
 western side, which far exceeds the other in altitude and boldness of aspect. Large as 
 the space of the great picture is, it comes at once within the scope of a single observa- 
 tion. Much and justly as Killarney is celebrated for the varied beauty of its scenery, 
 no single view that it presents can vie with this in sublimity of character and grandeur 
 of effect. 
 
 At the northern extremity the bay terminates in several creeks, each the mouth of a 
 mountain current; three are of sufficient importance to be distinguished by special 
 names—the Moyalla to the south, the Ouvane, and the Curloom to the north: between 
 the first and second of these lies the point of land whence this view before us takes its 
 name. ‘The opening in the foreground is the Lake of Reendonogan ; the more remote 
 point of land, to the eastward or right hand side, is the Cape of Reendizart, where the 
 O’Sullivans, once the lords of the entire district, had a castle, that was battered down 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 I8 REENDONOGAN LAKE—BANTRY BAY. 
 
 by one of the ships of war of that sturdy leveller, Oliver Cromwell. The O’Sullivans 
 had several other residences in these parts; one of the family, who retired to Spain 
 during the troublous period of the civil wars of Ireland, and was known at home by the | 
 name of O'Sullivan Bere, was there acknowledged under the title of Count of Bere- 
 haven, and is said to have been hereditary governor of the Groyne. On the left side 
 of the view is seen part of Whiddy Island, with its castle standing proudly prominent. 
 In the back ground are the mountains of Glengariff, abounding on a near approach 
 with a variety of the wildest scenery, but here softened down by distance, and leaving to 
 the imagination to shape to itself at pleasure the many charms of nature which lie em- 
 bosomed among their pointed summits, 
 
 This tract, which now appears in a great measure bare and shorn of its leafy honours, 
 was once adorned by a rich clothing of majestic timber. The iron mines of Camolin, 
 which lie near the course of the Curloom, gradually exhausted a store, which, at the 
 first erection of the works, was held to be never-failing. No prudent foresight provided 
 the means for remedying the devastation of the woodman’s axe and the miner’s furnace. 
 It remains now for the hand of art to restore, by judicious planting, those robes of 
 verdure, without which, let the great features of the landscape present what forms of 
 
 grandeur or of elegance they may, something is still felt to be wanting, by the eye of 
 taste, to complete the charm. 
 
 
 
 
 
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 PORT COON CAVE—GIANT’S CAUSEWAY, 
 
 COUNTY OF ANTRIM. 
 
 The lover of wild and picturesque scenery has been already introduced, by some of 
 the preceding views, to many of the attractive features in the neighbourhood of the 
 Giant’s Causeway. He has been made acquainted with the gloomy sublimity of 
 Benandanan—he has contemplated the basaltic fragments of Rathlin, and the artificial 
 ruins of Kenbaan Castle. Much still remains to be seen. The interior of the cliffs 
 which form the prominent features of the coast contain within them objects highly 
 deserving of notice. On proceeding from Bushmills, which may be considered the 
 Causeway inn, as being the only place thereabouts for rest or refreshment, the first 
 object of curiosity to which the stranger is conducted is Port Coon—a little inlet prin- 
 cipally formed by one of those singular natural constructions, called whindykes, which 
 have excited so much enquiry among geologists since their first discovery by the investi- 
 gating and indefatigable Dr. Richardson. The Port itself seems to have been com- 
 posed of seven walls, and to have been separated from the dyke in front by some 
 great elementary convulsion. In the centre of the bay stands a small pyramidal rock 
 of basalt, evidently detached by a similar cause from the great mass of the surrounding 
 precipices. 
 
 On one side of this retired little basin is Port Coon Cave. It is accessible both by sea 
 and land. On the western side are two openings, by which it can be entered at all times, 
 but the state of the weather must be carefully ascertained by those who would visit it 
 through the entrance from the sea, before they venture on the attempt. ‘The heavy . 
 rolling of the waves, even in calm weather, when the wind sets in upon the land, often 
 baffles the stranger’s expectation ; for, at such times, the boldest and most experienced 
 coast pilot shrinks from the desperate experiment of entering the cave by sea. Under 
 favourable circumstances, however, boats may proceed safely for upwards of an hundred 
 yards. But the finest view of the Cave is from its innermost recess, looking seaward. 
 There the sides are seen to rise almost perpendicularly to a height of more than sixty 
 feet, and to join at top in pointed arches, somewhat like the inner part of the roof of a 
 cathedral. The structure of the sides and vaulted copings above is very singular. The 
 whole is composed of rounded stones, imbedded in a basaltic crust of extreme hardness, 
 yet smooth and even slippery to the touch. Each stone, when separately examined, is 
 found to consist of a series of concentric spheres, like the coats of an onion. Standing 
 at the point just described, and whence the view here given is taken, the contrast of the 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 30 PORT COON CAVE—GIANT’S CAUSEWAY. 
 
 dark basaltic mass that forms the Cave, with the glimpse of open sea and sky that shews 
 itself at the extremity, at once illuminating and enlivening the scene within, joined with 
 the murmuring of the restless billows that strike against the sides, is highly imposing. 
 The guide—for here there is no lack of them, every peasant is a geologist and a show- 
 man, his pockets are loaded with specimens of the internal structure of the coast, and 
 his mouth overflows with descriptions of its external wonders—the guide, while the 
 stranger stands contemplating, in silent admiration, the grand and isolated temple of 
 nature in which he is embosomed, unexpectedly discharges a loaded gun. The effect 
 produced by the reverberations of the report is tremendous, resembling the ear-piercing 
 rolls of thunder near at hand. A deep-toned musical instrument, such as a bugle or 
 French horn, when judiciously sounded, also produces a magnificent effect : if a proper 
 pause be allowed between the succeeding notes, the echoes are most singularly delightful. 
 
 Port Coon Cave has the peculiar advantage, as has been just observed, of being 
 accessible by land as well as by sea; and, therefore, can be examined, without inconve- 
 nience, under every change of weather. ‘There is another cave in the immediate neigh- 
 bourhood equally, if not more, worthy of a visit ; but the difficulty of obtaining admis- 
 sion, from the want of a land entrance, renders it comparatively unknown. Its entrance 
 is in the form of a pointed arch, so correctly shaped as might lead to the opinion that 
 to it, or some other similar sport of nature, art has been indebted for the first idea of 
 this magnificent construction. Peculiar tact is requisite in entering : the boatmen set the 
 prow of the barge directly in the centre of the opening; then, resting on their oars, and 
 watching the swell of the wave, with a single stroke they are wafted, on the summit of 
 the rolling billow, into a passage so narrow that the oars must be instantly shipped, and 
 the boat allowed to advance solely by the impulse of the wave behind. The- depth of 
 this cave is still unascertained. ‘The intricacy of the passage renders its navigation 
 impracticable. But the cottagers, who live more than a mile from the shore, hear, or 
 fancy they hear, in stormy winter nights, the roaring of the waves in this their subter- 
 raneous prison. ‘The sides of the cave, above the water’s edge, are fringed with a 
 border of marine plants, and the top is ornamented with a rich tracery of conferve and 
 other pensile creepers. To those who have courage to venture, and are fortunate 
 enough to catch the favourable moment, this cave affords a rich banquet. The more 
 timid or less fortunate will meet, in that of Port Coon, with a feast scarcely less gratify- 
 ing ; which, though not seasoned with the additional zest of a triumph over dan 
 
 ger and 
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 ESS WATERFALL—GLENMALURE, 
 
 COUNTY OF WICKLOW. 
 
 Glenmalure, ‘the valley of much ore,” lies in the heart of the mountainous part of 
 the county of Wicklow, forming a channel for the Avonbeg, from lake Finogefin, dur- 
 ing the greatest part of its course, till it loses itself in the Avonmore, at the Meeting of 
 the Waters. ‘The valley is best entered from the south. Proceeding from the little vil- 
 lage of Ballynaclash, a mountain road passes entirely through it in a north-western 
 direction. 
 
 On passing the demesne of Ballinacor, once the property of the Moira family, but 
 now in the possession of Mr. Kemmis, the rise of Drumkit hill affords the first view of 
 Glenmalure, presenting an opening six miles long, inclosed on both sides by ranges 
 of lofty mountains. On the side of the hill is a chalybeate spring of considerable 
 strength; but, from the loneliness of its site, it is little frequented for its medicinal qualities. 
 Near the entrance of the glen, the road through it is crossed by the great military road, 
 on which one of the barracks, erected in this county after the insurrection of 1798, 
 though now nearly useless as a military position, forms a prominent feature in the land- 
 scape, contrasting strongly, by its angular architecture and strict uniformity of unorna- 
 mented structure, with the waving lines and rugged projections of the mountains among 
 which it is imbedded. 
 
 Proceeding along the glen, the lead mines of Ballynafinshogue appear on the eastern 
 side. ‘Their external appearance presents nothing striking; but those curious to ex- 
 amine the interior of the workings of these subterraneous stores of national wealth, can 
 have their wish gratified at little cost of fatigue, or risque of danger. ‘The entrance is 
 level with the road, so that the visiter, by taking a seat in one of the ore waggons, can 
 be rolled in along the railway, until he arrives at the intersection of the cross galleries. 
 Hence, if his curiosity be not yet satiated, he may continue his investigation through an 
 almost endless tissue of passages, as intricate and tortuous as the far-famed laby- 
 rinth of Crete. 
 
 On the other side of the valley, Lugnaquilla, the highest of the Wicklow mountains, 
 rises to an elevation of 3070 feet above the level of the sea. Lofty as it is, its ascent is 
 attended with little difficulty. Following the bed of a mountain torrent, which hurries 
 past the foot of Drumgoff hill, and climbing over a very steep precipice of loose rubble 
 and long grass, the remaining part of the ascent is a smooth green sod, which makes an 
 excellent sheep walk. ‘The highest point of the mountain is marked by a large flat 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
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 32 ; ESS WATERFALL—GLENMALURE. 
 
 stone, resting upon small low supporters, somewhat like a cromleach. It is called 
 Pierce's Table. The prospect here is very extensive, commanding a view of five coun- 
 ties, with the Irish sea in the distance. On the north side is a great chasm, called the 
 North Prison, forming the termination of the glen of Imail. In the front of this preci- 
 pice, among the projecting crags, are several eagles’ nests. 
 
 The upper end of the glen is closed by the fine waterfall of the Ess, as the river is 
 called at its departure from its parent lake, forming the subject of this view. Unlike 
 that of Powerscourt, except in the dimensions of the stream that causes it, instead of pre- 
 cipitating itself from the summit in one unbroken sheet, till it reaches the basin in the valley 
 beneath, the torrent is here interrupted by the projecting crags that increase its turbu- 
 lence, while they break its fall, and loses itself in a succession of rapids in the dark 
 hollow beneath. The western side of the fall rises almost perpendicularly, and termi- 
 nates in rugged broken crags, hanging boldly over the gap; on the east it rises in a 
 more oblique direction, exhibiting on its summit a grassy sward, interspersed with mas- 
 sive blocks of granite, broken into many varieties of shape, as if by some convulsion of 
 nature. Behind the fall is the mountain of Cumavally, and still more distant the 
 summit of Tonalagee, which nearly vies with that of Lugnaquilla in elevation. Its 
 height is 2696 feet. The whole of the scenery of this vale, from its entrance in the 
 more cultivated country till it closes in this fine cascade, is very striking, presenting a 
 continuous succession of the gloomy and romantic picturesque. Its great want, as 
 must strike the spectator of the view at first sight, is the scarcity of trees; yet this, 
 perhaps, adds to the sublimity of desolation, which is the great characteristic of the 
 glen. 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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 THE TWELVE PINS, CONNEMARA, 
 
 COUNTY OF GALWAY. 
 
 Connemara is a singular district. Though not more than an hundred miles from the 
 metropolis, and washed on two sides by an open navigable sea, it is little better known 
 than the inland wilds of America. After proceeding a few miles west of Galway 
 town, the traveller finds himself at once in a region where every thing is different from 
 what he had just quitted: extended plains, without a tree—tracts of bog and rugged 
 mountains are the chief features that present themselves to the view. The existence of 
 the animated creation is ascertained chiefly by the sheep that are to be seen scattered 
 over the short but verdant pasture that bursts up from between the rocks which lie, in 
 some parts, scattered in broken unshapely masses, while in others they rise like ridges of 
 waves along the surface. Humanity appears here also in a peculiar character. The few 
 individuals that are met with in a day’s journey are different from those in other parts 
 in their appearance, their dress, their tone of voice, and their language. The usual 
 dress of the women is a blue cloak and brownish-red petticoat—such as is depicted in 
 the solitary figure that stands with her faithful dog by her side on the foreground of the 
 picture. 
 
 The tourist who would penetrate far through the wilds of the interior, unless he 
 knew so much of Irish as to make himself intelligible to the natives, would find himself 
 wholly dependent on their quick-witted courtesy for the knowledge of the road he was 
 to go, or for the means of procuring his dinner. Not that he need be under apprehen- 
 sions of losing his way in the wastes, or perishing by want. The people are as hospi- 
 table as ignorant. ‘The stranger is welcome to a seat at their board, be it covered ever 
 so scantily—he is sure to be set upon the right path, even though his guide has to go 
 miles out of his way to direct him. 
 
 In the most western part of this district, midway between Birterbuy, Ballinakill 
 harbour, and Killery bay, the wild and romantic group of mountains, distinguished by 
 the odd name of the Twelve Pins, or, more correctly, Twelve Bins (Bens, that is, heads 
 or pimacles—they are collectively called Benabola) rise in a detached insulated mass 
 from the surrounding plain, and tower proudly above all the adjoining elevations. ‘They 
 occupy a space of about five miles square ; but if the lesser hills to the north and west be 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 34 THE TWELVE PINS. 
 
 included, they may be said to extend over seven or eight square miles. Their aspect, as 
 they appear from the distance at which the point of view has been fixed, is highly 
 characteristic, presenting all the characters already described as marking this part of Ire- 
 land ;—wild, unimproved, yet regularly romantic, with none of the softened features of 
 nature, touched by the genius of improvement, to mellow down its harshness. ‘The 
 group of the Twelve Pins seems as if flung up by some great convulsion of the elements, 
 from which mankind had fled upon its explosion, and had as yet scarcely ventured to 
 return thither. 
 
 The whole assemblage of peaked summits consists, when examined more closely, of 
 two distinct ranges, connected together by the elevated pass or neck of Maam Ina, from 
 which the steep and abrupt vale of Glen Ina, sending its waters to the lake of the same 
 name, descends on the east; while, on the west, the stream of Clifden discharges its 
 waters, after a course of eight miles, into the bay of Ardbear. On the south of this pass; 
 or Maam, the deep hollow of Glen Hoghan sends its waters to join the lake of Bally- 
 nahinch, and separates the hills of Littery and Derryclare, which, with a low ridge that 
 descends gradually to the westward, compose the front range of the mountain. 
 
 To the north, four summits surround the central mass of Knockanhiggeen, the 
 highest of the group, being 2400 feet above the sea—Bengowen, the summit of the ridge 
 of Littery, is 2100 feet. The others are from 2000 to 1800. They are all of quartz 
 formation, and of a sugar-loaf form, like the two mountains in Wicklow, known by 
 this appellation. The whole of the surrounding country, at the foot of the group, is 
 intersected by small detached lakes similar to that called Derry-inver, which presents 
 itself partially in the foreground of the view, adding much picturesque variety to 
 the scene. A visit to the glens of this singular, yet little known mountain cluster, 
 would amply repay the trouble and inconveniences that must be expected in a 
 country where roads are few, and accommodations scanty. However, if the genius 
 of taste once lead enquirers into this unexplored quarter of her dominions, these petty 
 inconveniencies will soon disappear—roads will smooth themselves—hotels will rear 
 their walls—plantations will shoot up—nature will relax from its surlier mood of 
 desolate grandeur, and Connemara will vie with Wicklow in seductive inducements 
 for the stranger, who, on his return home, will say to his neighbour, when about to set 
 out on the same expedition, ‘¢ You will not have seen Ireland, if you do not visit 
 Connemara.” 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
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GLEN OF THE DOWNS. 
 
 COUNTY OF WICKLOW. 
 
 The traveller who visits the County of Wicklow takes leave of one of its scenes of 
 enchantment only to enter upon another, different perhaps in character, but equal in 
 attraction. Powerscourt, with its Cascade and Dargle, is quitted with the less reluc- 
 tance when aware that another short hour i$ about to lead to anew prospect of nature 
 in one of her loveliest moods. The Glen of the Downs is of this kind. Its name is 
 indicative of its peculiarities. It is a valley forming a rich and romantic opening be- 
 tween two primitive mountains, covered on each side with fine hanging woods inter- 
 spersed with rugged cliffs, at the foot of which flows a silvery stream scarcely perceptible 
 but by its murmurs, and leading into an extensive sylvan scene abounding with downs or 
 gently swelling hills. 
 
 On entering the Glen at the northern or Dublin end, the right hand side presents a 
 continuance of rich foliage from the water side to the summit of the hills through which 
 the valley winds. The other side is more rugged. Here frequent projections, that scorn 
 to be clothed with the embellishments of nature, yet heighten its beauties by the con- 
 trast of their uncouth craggy forms, are frequent. On one of these, towering over the 
 valley, is erected a banquetting house, in itself a striking object when viewed from be- 
 neath, and, when attained, presenting a magnificent and extended prospect, having the 
 dark foliage of the valley in its foreground, and stretching out to the west and south-west 
 in an amphitheatre of undulating hills fringed with wood, studded with numerous villas, 
 and closed with a bold outline of distant mountain; while to the east the eye embraces 
 the broad expanse of the channel—interminable, unless to the ken of a vivid imagination, 
 which sees or paints for itself the cloudy summits of Snowdon or Plynlimmon hovering 
 indistinctly between sea and sky upon the opposite coast of Wales. | 
 
 The Banquetting-house, to which access may be had from the valley by pedestrians 
 through a winding path, is in the demesne of Mr. Latouche, the proprietor of that side 
 of the Glen. His mansion, though, strictly speaking, not included within the scope of 
 the scene-before us, should not be passed unnoticed. It was erected by the founder of 
 the family, an emigrant on account of his religion, who chose this island as his place of 
 refuge, and one of the most lovely spots upon it as his home. He amply repaid the 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 36 GLEN OF THE DOWNS. 
 
 protection which its mountain vales afforded. ‘To him the country owes its silk manu- 
 facture, a branch of native industry planted and reared to splendid maturity by his in- 
 telligent care, and which, as it owed its birth to his arrival here, seems to have drooped 
 and withered on his death. To his taste and judgment is more especially owing the 
 invention of the glossy web formed by the combination of the fine wool of Ireland with 
 the rich silk of Italy, which the beauties of every court of Europe but our own employ 
 to set off their charms to the greatest advantage, by the brilliant contrast of its splendid 
 hues. ‘To him Ireland owes its inimitable tabbinets. 
 
 The view of the Glen here given exhibits its northern entrance, where the road may 
 be seen losing itself between the groups of trees that cover its sides. In the foreground 
 is a genuine Irish cabin, an object. to the artist, of picturesque, to the philanthropist, of 
 melancholy interest ; adding beauty, by contrast, to the face of nature, but detracting 
 most sadly from the prospect of national improvement. Such contrast is still more 
 heightened here by that afforded between the hovel and a cottage erected and fitted up 
 according to the best style of rural simplicity, which presents itself at the entrance of 
 the valley. The one might be deemed, if our first parents when fresh from the hands 
 of their Maker needed any thing such, an imitation of their mansion in paradise : the 
 other that in which they shrunk for shelter after their exclusion. 
 
 The Glen itself is not a single prospect. Viewed in either direction, its character 
 varies greatly. But that which discloses itself to the traveller, when, entering it at its 
 southern extremity he proceeds northwards to Dublin, must be the subject of a future 
 
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THE SECOND MEETING OF THE WATERS. 
 
 COUNTY OF WICKLOW. 
 
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 The Meeting of the Waters will be known as long as there is an eye awake to the 
 beauties of nature, or a heart attuned to the melody of verse. It has been touched by 
 a plume from the wing of genius,—painted in colours dipt in heaven. Yet, strange to 
 say, when the enthusiastic lover of the lays of Ireland, while the tones of her sweetest 
 melodist are still tingling in his ears, enquires where is the Meeting of the Waters ? the 
 question still remains to be answered. ‘To descend to simple facts. A point of land at 
 the confluence of the rivers Avonmore and Avonbeg, forms what has been generally 
 deemed the Meeting of the Waters. It has been already described in a preceding 
 number, and therefore need not be recurred to here. The united stream, under the 
 name of the Ovoca, after passing through a valley rich to the eye of taste im scenic 
 beauties—still richer, in the contemplations of science, in concealed hoards of mineral 
 treasures—meets with a noisy brawling mountain brook, named, from a village it be- 
 sprinkles during its descent, the Aughrim. Both currents, assuming conjointly a more 
 tranquil tone, glide majestically through a bordering of richly wooded elevations, till 
 they lose themselves in. the expansion of the bay of Arklow. 
 
 This latter junction it is which disputes with its more inland sister the proud title of 
 the Meeting of the Waters. The decision of the question is of no small import. Pic- 
 ture to your mind’s eye some genuine worshipper of nature, some being of the higher 
 order of intellectualities—perhaps yourself—after having heard that most delightful of 
 the delightful aspirations of Moore warbled forth in tones worthy of the muse and of the 
 minstrel that gave them birth; perhaps, too, from lips—but, no matter—picture him 
 seated on the spot marked by nature and tradition as the place itself—reclining on the 
 very twist of the gnarled root on which the poet sat—after having feasted his soul with a 
 silent, in-drawn repetition of the magical memorial—after having swallowed with greedy 
 eye the landscape that gave it birth—after having inhaled the breeze that floated from 
 its surface—after having tasted the translucent wave drawn from the very point of junc- 
 tion—and, in conclusion, having consecrated the libation with the vow, that 
 
 “ The last rays of feeling and life must depart, 
 Ere thy bloom, beauteous valley, shall fade from my heart 
 
 ” 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 38 THE SECOND MEETING OF THE WATERS. 
 
 —at such a place as this, at such an hour—to be told by some straight-forward, matter- 
 of-fact parish-clerk, or barony collector, or ore-grubber— Sir, this is not the place at all, 
 You must go four miles farther down the river.”—Flesh and blood could not endure it. 
 Flesh and blood! The shock would dash to pieces, would dissipate into their airy ele- 
 ments the very essence of all the soul and sentiment that had been concentrated upon 
 the spot, and leave nothing but the dross, the animal refuse, the mere flesh and blood 
 behind. All that the sentimentalist has for it is to take refuge in the inn, put on his 
 slippers, and call for a tumbler of mountain-dew. 
 
 It is, therefore, matter of no small poetic importance to decide which is the Meeting 
 of the Waters. Were we to be left to our own prosaic opinions, we should be inclined, 
 judging from appearances, to give the preference to that now before us. What says 
 that first of anglers, and most delightful of gossips, our esteemed friend Gregory Green- 
 drake upon the point? ‘On a promontory,” says this worthy disciple of old Izaak 
 Walton, “‘ona promontory formed by the conflux of the Ovoca with a mountain stream 
 from Aughrim, is a point of view perhaps eoxcelled by none in any country. From this 
 spot no less than five valleys or glens may be seen, all bearing some features of resem- 
 blance, yet each so distinguished by peculiar and appropriate beauties, that no person, 
 having any perception of the sublime and beautiful, could behold this magnificent scene 
 without admiration and delight. It is this that furnished the inspiration to one of 
 Moore’s melodies.”’ Authority so high, and pronounced with such decision, would be 
 conclusive, were it not for the counter-fact, that the poet himself, when appealed to on 
 the point, pronounced—with some little salvo of hesitation, however—in favour of the 
 former or higher confluence. But as his answer is said to have contained, like many a 
 legal opinion, the shadow of a shade of doubt, sufficient for the erection of a new airy 
 hypothesis, we must leave the question undecided, recommending to the reader, as the 
 only satisfactory mode of solution, to go thither and judge for himself. 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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BALLY-ARTHUR. 
 
 COUNTY OF WICKLOW. 
 
 Bally-Arthur, lately the seat of the Rev. Mr. Symes, and now of the Rev. Mr. Bayley, 
 owes much of its celebrity to the bounties of nature—much also to the embellishments 
 of art. ‘The demesne is situate on the heights overlooking the Vale of Ovoca. Crossing 
 that river, the approach on the left bank, for upwards of an English mile, is through an 
 oak wood of splendid growth. About half way, an opening of the grounds towards the 
 river discloses some rich meadows and a beautifully situated cottage; after which, ano- 
 ther finely opening valley discovers another wood sweeping round the high banks over 
 the river, and ascending through a coppice interspersed with beech, until the lawn is 
 reached, in the middle of which stands the mansion itself. 
 
 The house, an old but comfortable residence, presents an appearance by no means 
 corresponding with the extent and grandeur of the surrounding plantations and im- 
 provements. After having passed it, a path between two lines of yew-trees, overhanging 
 a thick plantation of laurels, leads to a terrace on the uppermost verge of the northern 
 side of the Ovoca. Here an enchanting prospect displays itself. The banks of the 
 river form a valley about quarter of a mile in breadth, and for a distance of four miles 
 so thickly wooded, that nothing is to be seen but one continued surface of foliage, broken 
 only by the indentation in which the Ovoca rolls its dark tide between the enclosing 
 forests, while in the distance the tops of the surrounding mountains, among which the 
 Sugar-loaf and Croghan-Kinshela are proudly conspicuous, occasionally show their 
 heads. 
 
 A long narrow path, so completely inclosed by evergreens as to preclude the slightest 
 glimpse of the surrounding scenery, leads to an octagon Moss-house, erected on a 
 projecting eminence above the river. Here an amphitheatre of scenery of surpassing 
 splendor opens at once—magnificent in itself, but made the more brilliant from the 
 contrast of sombre gloom through which the visiter is led to its contemplation. ‘The 
 sea of foliage, which lay beneath at a distance when viewed from the terrace, now spreads 
 itself under the foot. The Ovoca is heard roaring over its rocky bottom with a louder 
 noise. On the right is seen the conflux of the valleys of Arklow, Aughrim, and Crone- 
 bane—each beautiful, each attractive with diversified beauties. On the other side, the 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 40 BALLY-ARTHUR. 
 
 richly wooded demesnes of Lord Carysfort and other wealthy proprietors lose themselves 
 among the distant mountains. 
 
 Bally-Arthur exhibits a splendid proof of the high degree of improvement to which 
 the poorest soil can be raised. A few years ago, what is now a glorious display of the 
 richest mountain scenery was an unsightly impenetrable brake, covered with furze, 
 briars, and rocks, and interrupted only by stagnating pools formed by the overflowings 
 of the river. By persevering labour all those unsightly blotches upon the fair face of 
 nature have been effaced. The stagnating pools have been drained, the rough and 
 rushy uplands converted into watered meadows of verdant velvet, throwing up a sward 
 of luxuriant herbage that pays with tenfold interest the labour bestowed upon it ; the rocks 
 have been removed or planted out; the hills are fringed with dense plantations, and 
 covered with every variety of crop, grateful in prospect and remunerative in abundance. 
 ‘The woods cover a surface of upwards of two hundred and fifty acres, and by skilful 
 management are made to yield an annual income of £600. Such are the wonders that 
 have been produced by the continued exertions of a judicious and spirited proprietor, 
 who knew how to combine the elegancies of ornamental improvement with well-devised 
 plans of agricultural profit. 
 
 
 

 
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THE TWO SUGAR-LOAVES, 
 
 COUNTY OF WICKLOW. 
 
 Of all the characteristic features of the romantic County of Wicklow, the two 
 conical mountains, universally known by the name of the Sugar-loaf Hills, are the 
 _ most singular. The peculiarity of their structure causes them to be recognised at a 
 very remote distance. The greater Sugar-loaf is one of the first objects in the 
 mountain range that strikes the eye on quitting the City of Dublin. It is among the 
 foremost to attract notice to those entering Dublin Bay from England. On penetrating 
 into the county, turn in which direction you will, one, if not both, of these conical 
 projections is sure to form a portion of every extended landscape view. One of the 
 finest points from which to contemplate the larger is while travelling northward towards 
 Dublin through the Glen of the Downs. The gorge of that romantic valley seems to 
 be completely blocked up by the stupendous mass of bare and rugged granite that 
 spreads across it. Another view of it, equally striking in effect, though different in 
 appearance, is from the summit of the hill that forms the valley just now mentioned. The 
 ascent thither is rewarded by an extensive prospect of the rich and highly cultivated 
 Downs, whence the glen derives its name, in some parts waving with grain, in others 
 speckled with sheep or studded with scattered trees. At the northern extremity of the 
 prospect, the greater Sugar-loaf rears its conical head majestically, exhibiting its barren 
 vertex, composed of horn stone, with quartz rock of a purplish or pale pink colour. 
 Its height measures 2,004 feet above the level of the sea. The summit, which, to those 
 who view it from a distance, appears to vanish in a pointed peak, is found, by such as 
 have had the resolution to toil up its steep and rugged sides, to be a small flat plain. 
 Here, as may well be imagined, a noble panorama presents itself. Placed in the centre 
 of most of the attractions of the northern part of Wicklow, prospects of varied boauty 
 meet the eye in every direction. On one side rugged tracts of wooded hills, backed by 
 a still more rugged range of mountain, edging the horizon; on the other, thickly 
 planted vallies, diversified with openings of rich meadow and pasture land, with the 
 broad ocean spreading around in the distance. 
 
 The description of these beautiful singularities of nature should not be closed without 
 
 mentioning that they were formerly called, by the native Irish, by a name which signifies 
 F 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 42 THE TWO SUGAR-LOAVES. 
 
 “the gilded spears,” derived from their retaining and reflecting back the brilliant 
 glances of the setting sun, when the rest of the landscape is involved in shade. 
 This epithet—so appropriate, so poetical—has been changed by the matter-of-fact citizens, 
 who went to feast upon their beauties—with what a singular felicity of taste, and deli- 
 cacy of expression, it is needless to state—into their present most unimaginative name, 
 
 the Sugar-loaves. 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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WATERFALL OF GLENMACANASS, 
 
 COUNTY OF WICKLOW. 
 
 The Valley of Glenmacanass lies on the line of the military road, near the central 
 tract of elevated land from which most of the rivers in the County of Wicklow take 
 their rise. A tourist proceeding from Rathdrum, northwards, along the Avonmore, 
 which here flows through a rich, well-cultivated valley, on arriving at Laragh Barrack, 
 finds himself at the intersection of four roads. That to the right leads to Anamoe, 
 to the left to Glendalough ; the third, on which he turns his back, would take him by 
 Aghavanagh barrack into Carlow county ; the fourth, continuing along the course of 
 the Avonmore, conducts him along the valley of Glenmacanass. 
 
 The road through it lies along the bottom of a fertile vale, presenting to the view 
 some of the most improved grounds to be met with in this part of the country, but 
 soon rising into lofty elevations on each side ; that to the west being called the Brocagh, 
 and that to the east the Laragh Mountain. After tracing the serpentine stream of the 
 river through a delightful course of four miles, the eye is arrested by an enormous basin 
 formed by a sweeping curvature of the mountain, down the perpendicular front of 
 which, the river throws itself in a considerable body, producing a very curious and inte- 
 resting picture. ‘The spot, however, is less remarkable for the beauties of its scenery, 
 than for the numerous varieties of geological formations it presents. Chrystals of dif. 
 ferent rare species here reward the search of the mineralogist. The beryl, tourmaline, 
 and garnet are found embedded in veins of granite, as are also felspar chrystals, and 
 fine specimens of gneiss. 
 
 Above the waterfall, at some distance, rises the mountain of ‘Tonelagee, towering to a 
 height of 2,696 feet above the level of the sea. It is the highest mountain in the 
 Wicklow group except Lugnaquilla. The summit of this mountain presents several 
 bold precipices, at the foot of one of which, under a projecting eminence, five hundred 
 feet high, is the small circular lake of Lough Ouler, remarkable, among other qualifica- 
 tions, for being stocked with the worst trout in the county, having large heads, and with 
 flesh of poor and soft quality. 
 
 The attractions of the beautiful glen which terminates in the waterfall now before us, 
 are enhanced by its contrast with all the others in the interior of the country. These 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 4.4 WATERFALL OF GLENMACANASS. 
 
 exhibit nature in her wild and rugged mood. The visiter when locked in among the 
 precipitous fastnesses of Glenmalure or the Glen of Imail, feels himself at once shut out 
 from every vestige of civilization. A solitary goat perched upon a projecting cliff, or 
 the smoke forcing itself through the thatch of a lonely hovel built of scraws, are the only 
 tokens of the vicinity of man. But in Glenmacanass, nature assumes a more gentle and 
 social aspect. Cultivation is spread over its bottom, and struggles hard to gain the 
 ascendancy of its towering sides. ‘The circumstance also of the line of the great mili- 
 tary road taking its direction through it, dissipates the loneliness that so strikingly 
 marks the others. Travellers, though not frequent, enliven the scene. It may be 
 mentioned, that of all the numerous glens that traverse the county, this is the only one 
 which the engineers could avail themselves of in tracing out the line of route which was 
 to cut through the hitherto unimpenetrable mass of mountain fastnesses, that had afforded 
 shelter to bands of desperate insurgents during the disastrous struggle of 1798. The 
 general course of the road was southerly. The glens, with the exception of Glenmaca- 
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NEWBRIDGE, ON THE OVOCA, 
 
 COUNTY OF WICKLOW. 
 
 Whoever wishes to indulge in a prolonged contemplation of the natural beauties of 
 the south of Wicklow County, should fix his centre of action in or about the village of 
 Newbridge. ‘The position of this retired spot is in itself sufficiently interesting, com- 
 manding views up and down the Ovoca, on which the eye can long dwell with undimi- 
 nished pleasure. Its site is almost exactly midway between the First and Second 
 Meeting of the Waters, a short morning’s walk from either, through an undulating 
 valley, whose bracing atmosphere and odoriferous gales, redolent of mountain sweets, 
 are equally adapted to stimulate the appetite of the gastronome, cloyed with the smoke 
 and sedentary dinners of the city, and to excite to fresh transports of hymeneal rapture 
 the hearts of newly united lovers, even in the wane of the honeymoon. 
 
 Here the enthusiast in the mysteries of nature can penetrate into the depths of the 
 copper mines of Cronebane and Ballymurtagh, collect specimens without number for 
 the illustration of geology, and return before sunset, like a bee, loaded with treasures 
 culled from the mountain brow and shaded dell. A short extension of his ramble will 
 lead him to the Irish cave of Aladdin, the far-famed mountain of Croghan Kuinshela, 
 where, if his organs of acquisitiveness be largely developed, he may indulge in the gra- 
 tification of their propensities, by adding one to the number, who, in quest of sudden 
 fortune, have toiled long and found nothing to repay the labours of their research for 
 native gold. 
 
 Ruins of ancient castles, churches, and monastic buildings, are here for the antiquary ; 
 newly-erected mansions and villas for the admirers of what is pretty, odd, and new; 
 and modern antiques for the lovers of the revival of olden times. Shelton Abbey, 
 Bally Arthur, Cherry Mount, Castle Howard, and Avondale, are each within the scope 
 of a pedestrian lounge. The angler, too, has here abundance wherewith to occupy his 
 mind, whether in lake or river fishing. Armed with elastic rod, well-chosen selection of 
 flies, fishing basket and landing net, with honest old Izaak Walton in one pocket, and 
 our gossiping countryman, worthy Gregory Greendrake, in the other, he must be a dull 
 soul, indeed, inexpert in the art, and unalive to its enjoyments, who cannot take a 
 week’s pleasure in this spot, and think it but a day. 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 46 NEWBRIDGE, ON THE OVOCA. 
 
 We have read a tale, and we believe it true, of an angler, who, having gone to the 
 lakes of Connemara and Erris, in the summer of ninety-eight, remained there, ardently 
 and unintermittingly following his fascinating amusement during the landing of the 
 French at Killala, the rout at Castlebar, the check at Colooney, and the final discomfi- 
 ture at Ballynamuck—and was totally ignorant of every circumstance of that eventful 
 campaign, though occurring within forty or fifty miles of him, until his return to Galway. 
 We do not say that the lover of nature and her sports will enjoy an equal abstraction from 
 the turmoils and inquietudes of this sublunary world in his humble lodge at Newbridge. 
 On the contrary, the merry peal of the guard’s bugle, and the rattling of his majesty’s 
 mail coach wheels, will give him daily intimations of his vicinity to the pale of civilized 
 society. He has here the power of indulging in all the seclusion of uninterrupted retire, 
 ment, and of replunging, at an hour’s notice, into the bustle and dissipation of the metro- 
 polis, from which this sweet and tranquil village had allowed him a temporary relaxation. 
 
 
 

 
 
 
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 SHELTON ABBEY, 
 
 COUNTY OF WICKLOW. 
 
 Shelton Abbey, the family seat of the Earl of Wicklow, is situate on the northern 
 bank of the Ovoca, midway between the second Meeting of the Waters and the town 
 of Arklow. The scenery here is of a more subdued character than that of the upper 
 parts of this beautiful river. As its waters approach the sea, the valley expands, and the 
 mountains sink into hills of humbler elevation. Amidst this scenery stands Shelton 
 Abbey, encompassed by a fine demesne extremely rich in wood. The Spanish chesnut 
 here attains an extraordinary size. The oak, though the prevalent tree, is somewhat 
 stunted of its natural dimensions, from a neglect of thinning, and want of judicious 
 culture. The beech trees in the immediate neighbourhood of the Abbey are conspt- 
 cuous for size and beauty. 
 
 The architects who designed the mansion, proposed to themselves to represent a monas- 
 tic structure of the fourteenth century, converted into a baronial residence of a date 
 shortly subsequent to the reformation. The building is low and square, presenting a 
 double front, each richly decorated with ornamented pinnacles. The interior corres- 
 ponds strictly with the design adopted for the outside. The hall of entrance 1s 
 wainscotted with carved oak, and its ceiling enriched with pendants. The great hall 
 at its extremity, is finely ornamented after the manner of the supposed era of its erec- 
 tion. The principal staircase is also of carved oak. Several of the larger reception- 
 rooms are laid out with peculiar delicacy of taste ; all, taken as part of a whole, are 
 conspicuous for a due keeping of architectural fashion. The principal apartments con- 
 tain a good collection of paintings, many of which are by distinguished masters. ‘The 
 large and valuable library contains the books, drawings, and medals, collected by a 
 learned and wealthy member of the family, who had enriched himself by his practice as 
 a barrister, and was representative for the city of Dublin in 1727. 
 
 The family of the Earl of Wicklow derives its origin in Ireland from a physician, 
 who held the medical professorship in Dublin College, in the time of Charles II. On 
 the breaking out of the war in 1688, he withdrew with his family to England, and was 
 attainted, in his absence, by King James’s parliament; in consequence of which his 
 estates were sequestered, and the Wicklow property given in charge to an adherent of 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 48 SHELTON ABBEY. 
 
 that king, of the name of Hackett, who received the rents, and resided in the abbey, 
 until after his royal master’s discomfiture at the Boyne. During James’s disgraceful 
 flight to Waterford, this monarch stopped at Shelton, and was entertained there for one 
 night by the new occupant. The property then reverted to its former possessors, one 
 of whom, being raised to the lucrative dignity of Bishop of Elphin, added considerably 
 to the wealth and rank of the family. A son of this bishop was raised to the peer- 
 age in 1776, by the title of Baron Avonmore, to which title was subsequently added 
 those of Viscount and Earl of Wicklow. 
 
 Shelton Abbey may be considered as the southern termination of the picturesque 
 scenery of Wicklow. The Ovoca here loses its characteristic features of romance— 
 the surrounding country becomes flat. The road to Arklow is comparatively uninterest- 
 ing, and the approach to the adjoining county of Wexford indicates a striking alteration 
 in the natural features of the region. The tourist perceives that he is about to exchange 
 
 the enchantments of mountain and river scenery for the less fascinating prospects of 
 agricultural improvement. 
 
 
 
 
 

 
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