{imnranmmmimniiniGni^^ ttfHunuiHtiitHn!m«iiutHtt»ti»(iitOL{uui»fn{iuitaiiomtHuiutiii»tiniH»m<»tim miigi ?ii!iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii n{iiiiiunTtiiUMiiniiHiiniiijiH}!!iiiiiiimttmi?ii[iii!niri7nT {^^ LIST OF HOTELS IN KILLARNEY A nd Neighbourhood. THE RAILWAY. Opposite the Railway Station. ROYAL VICTORIA. On northern shore of the Lower Lake. THE LAKE. Close to the Lake at Castlelough Bay. THE MUCK ROSS (ROSS'S). In the village of Clcghcreen. O'SULLIVAN'S. In the village of Cloghereen. GRAHAM'S HOTEL. The Glebe. THE LAKE VIEW HOTEL. Overlooking the Lake. THE PALACE. Nczu Street. THE INNISFALLEN. Main Street. HOTELS IN GLENGARIFF. THE ECCLES. ROCHE'S. HOTELS LV BANTRY. VICKERY'S. THE RAILWAY GLF NOflRR^IFF H A /\B O U f^ GENEf^^L l//£.V OF JHE L/II\E S-. 1^ I LLA/^N Ey. Souvenir of the Lakes of Kt and Gleiigariff ■' Wild ti-acts of forest g7-ound, and scattered groves, And iHotmtains bare, or clothed -with ancient woods, Surrounded us; and as we held our way Along the level of the glassy flood. They ceased not to surround us; change of place, Frotn kindred features diversely combined, Producing change of beauty cxxr new" T. NELSON AND SONS London, EdinlmrgJi, and New York i8g2 CONTENTS, preliminary information and remarks, route via cork and glengariff, killarney, the gap of dunloe, the turnpike, black valley, logan stone, upper lake, long range, eagle's nest, the old weir bridge, the rustic bridge, muckross lake, torc waterfall, muckross demesne, muckross abbey, dinish island, .... middle lake, lower lake, glen a bay, 3997 7 lO 13 15 18 19 20 21 23 24 24 25 25 26 27 27 29 29 29 31 Contents. o'sullivan's waterfall, innisfallen island, ross castle, ascent of mangerton, carran tual, aghadoe ruins, ... LORD KENMARE's DEMESNE, DERRYCUNIHY CASCADE, TORC MOUNTAIN, CLOGHEREEN, GLEN FLESK, 32 33 35 36 40 42 43 44 44 45 46 THE GAP or OUSLOE^ t^lLLAF{NEy. >*flCG^LU CUDDY'S. f^EEKS^ K,: LLAR^NEf- ■^^ ^* i ,,.i::!*'ar-«fe.;i^-— -^-,-; JBfiB^"' ' tit*- pUI\PLE fHOUNJAItJ^t^lLL/'l^NC) THE BL^CK, VALLEy H^ILLAf\NEy. JHE UPPEf^ t/l>^£ — >\ILL/lf^NEy. JHE E/IGLEB' ftESJ I^Ou NJ fi i H ^ i\: LLA R^N Ef. r. fliLSoH a ions OLD WEiR Bi^mCE ^i^lLL/JI^NBy. /UtEETIfJG or JHE WAJEf^S ^l\ILLAI^NEY. j.iliLSOlHsais JORC MOUNJAIN, FROM DINISH ISL/I N O ^^1 UAt^NEY- f4UCI^R0SS flBBEy, t^ULAI^NEy. flNJEI^IOr\) fAUCI^ROSi ABBtr, '('ii./'/?/v£K. Bf^lCI^EEfJ 6f\IDGE-I^ILLAI\NEY. DINISH COTTAGE— 1^1 LLfll^NEY LAR^NEy l\tLLfll^NeY- fj ItJNiSF/ILLEi'J, LOWEf^L/ll\E— l\ILL/lf^NE.Y. f^OSS C/ISJLE, LOWEI\ LAt^E ^ KJLLAR^KEY - '^^^ ^^^^ggj^^.s^s^jp'^^s^, JUNNEL ON JHE I^ENfl»AI^E 1^0/10— l\^l LLA f{N E ^. THE i/?^£S, rfl^OM JORC MOUNJAIN H^l LLAffN Ey. THE UPPER LAKE, KILLARNEY. THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY. PRELLMINARY INFORMATION AND REMARKS. ^ir^HERE is not a spot in the length and breadth of the United A Kingdom more worthy of being visited than the beautiful Lakes of Killarney. These lakes are in character quite different from all other noted localities in the British Isles, and are superior to most of them. The scenery around them possesses a peculiar richness and variety, and the vegetation a wild luxuriance, which cannot be properly understood or thoroughly appreciated until they are seen. Comparisons, it is said, are odious. Nevertheless they are sometimes necessary ; and, assuredly, never more so than when the objects to be compared are unduly estimated, in consequence either of prejudice or of ignorance, or both. We therefore make the assertion advisedly that, upon the whole, the Lakes of Kil- larney are superior, in many points, to those of England, and even to the far-famed Trossachs of Scotland. And we do not give this forth as our own opinion ; we claim the reader's reception of the fact, until he has had an opportunity of judging for himself, upon the ground that such is the opinion not only of hundreds and Zhc Xal^es ot IRUlarnc^. thousands of those who have already visited the Irish lakes, but of several men of note who are universally allowed to be competent judges. Among these were Sir Walter Scott, Wordsworth, and Sir David Wilkie. Wordsworth, whose prejudices, if he had any, must naturally have been in favour of the lakes of Cumberland and Westmoreland, pronounced the region of Killarney to be, " in point of scenery, the finest portion of the British .Islands." Sir Walter, whose visit was so short — only one day — that he saw but a few of the chief beauties and attractions of this lovely spot, excepted Loch Lomond, in his otherwise unqualified praise of the Upper Lake, when he said it was " the grandest sight he had ever seen." The great painter's praise was unqualified. Sir David Wilkie wrote of these lakes, that, for beauty and grandeur, he had never seen them surpassed. Such praise from such men is high testimony, but not higher than is merited by this charming spot — this focus of beauty in the green and lovely Isle of Erin, Apart from their beauty, the Lakes of Killarney are of great in- terest on account of the Druidical remains found around them, and of the ruins of the celebrated monasteries of Innisfallen, Muckross, and Aghadoe, where, in days of old, learned (and, doubtless, un- learned) monks resided ; two of whom compiled an ancient and curious manuscript History of the World and of Ireland. The name of the Lower Lake, Lough Lene or Leane — the " Lake of Learning " — is supposed to have reference to these monks. Before entering upon the minute details of our work, we shall offer a few general observations, which, we hope, will prove useful. First, then, let it be borne in remembrance that the Lakes of Killarney cannot be satisfactorily seen and explored in less than three days. There are few people, we should imagine, who, having travelled so far to behold so glorious a scene, could not afford to spend at least three days in the enjoyment of it ; yet it is possible that such may be the case, and to those who are so unfortunate we would remark, that umch may be seen in two days, and the tanta- Zbc Xakcs ot Ikillarnev. lizing glance obtained even in one is better than not seeing the lakes at all. In three days, however, most of the chief points of interest may be visited, and a pretty fair impression of the country ob- tained ; but those who have leisure, and who wish to be more minute in their explorations, may spend several weeks in roaming among the mountains and glens with profit and gratification, for the works of God exhibit new and ever-increasing beauties the closer and the longer they are examined. We feel assured that however long the visitor may sojourn at Killarney, he will find something new to admire every day. Being situated in the County of Kerry, on the south-west coast of Ireland, the Lakes of Killarney were, up to a recent period, visited by few, and by none except the adventurous ; and those who succeeded in penetrating through the country into the romantic scenes of the west, were satisfied with plain and substantial fare and accommodation at their journey's end — although, we must add, they ever got, as all visitors will still get, a hearty welcome from a people who are proverbially hospitable, and deem it a duty as well as a pleasure to be kind and courteous to the " stranger." The Lakes of Killarney are three in number — the Lower Lake, or Lough Leane ; the Muckross, or Tore, or Middle Lake ; and the Upper Lake. The Lower and Middle Lakes lie close together, and are joined to the Upper by a river four miles ill length, winding picturesquely through the mountains, and called the Long Range. It is this channel that Wordsworth acknowledged to be superior in beauty to anything in the English lake district. The entire length of the three, from the end of the Lower to the extremity of the Upper Lake, is about twelve miles ; and the breadth of the largest, the Lower Lake, is about four miles. As all the points of primary interest are upon, or in the immediate vicinity of, these lakes, the visitor may thus form some conception of the extent of the scenery The lakes are situated in the midst of majestic and lofty mountains, whose sides and steeps are covered with the most Zbc %n\{C3 ot IRillarnei?. luxuriant verdure, and, in many places, with splendid forest trees. The highest mountains are Carran Tual and Mmigerton ; the former about 3,414 feet, the latter about 2,756 feet in height. The lakes are dotted with islands, some of which are connected by bridges with each other and with the shores. The Lower and largest lake spreads out in one direction towards a comparatively level country, while the Upper and smallest lake lies embedded in dark, wild, magnificent mountains ; and all around are cataracts and waterfalls of every size and form, some of which are prominent points of interest, and are described in the succeeding pages. There are various legends in regard to the origin of the lakes, all of which, however much they may differ in some respects, agree in this, that in former days the valley over which they spread was richly cultivated and thickly peopled ; and that the ancient in- habitants, with their chief, the great O'Donoghue, are still living comfortably under water in the enjoyment of health and happiness. ROUTE VIA CORK AND GLENGARIFF. This route, certainly the most picturesque, is now becoming the most popular. Coi'k. — In this old historic city, built on both sides of the river Lee, any traveller who has time to linger will find many objects of interest. The name in Irish signifies " a marsh," referring to the low site of part of the town. Its history can be traced back as far as the sixth century ; and not much above a century ago Cork resembled a town in Holland, being intersected with numerous canals. These are now arched over, and most of the ancient ruins have disappeared, except the tower of the Red Abbey, once a monastery of Augustin monks, founded by Edward I. The Cathedral of St. Fionn Barre is situated in what was the oldest part of the town. There are other beautiful churches and public buildings well worthy of inspection. From Cork the tourist can proceed to Killarney, either by way of Bandon and Bantry, or vicl Macroom. ^be Xakes of Tkillarne^. Bandon. — This is a large and well-built town, nineteen miles distant from Cork by train, the river Bandon flowing through it. The western environs are beautiful, and the fine grounds of Castle Bandon, to which visitors are freely admitted, present on every hand landscapes of varied loveliness. Passing through Dunmanway and the village of Drimoleague, the train arrives at Bantry, situated on the beautiful bay of the same name, " a har- bour perhaps unsurpassed by any in the world for natural beauties and advantages." Its general appearance is that of a wide lake surrounded by mountains and precipices. The island of Whiddy, near the town, was in old times considered an important military position. At Bantry the railway terminates, and a traveller bound for Killarney must proceed by car, probably soon joined by other parties who have come south vm Macroom. — Macroom is a pleasant market town of about 3,000 inhabitants, situated on the river Lee. Leaving the Capwell Station in Cork, a run of eighteen miles brings the traveller to Macroom, after passing the Hamlet of Ovens, with its remarkable limestone caves, and the ruined Abbey and Castle of Kilcrea. Macroom Castle, said to have been built in the reign of King John, is a residence of the Earl of Bantry. Its strange old tower is mantled in beautiful variegated ivy, considered the finest speci- men of Irish ivy in the kingdom. Gougane Barra is a mountain lake, named from St. Fionn Barre, who lived as a hermit on a small island, where the ruins of his chapel and hermitage were long visited by crowds of pilgrims, the well being supposed to possess peculiar virtues. The lake is wildly picturesque, being surrounded by majestic mountains ; and its surface is " dark and lustrous as a polished slab of black marble, the gloomy grandeur of the precipices being relieved only by the streams that flash down their furrows like trembling silver strings." tTbe Xakes of IRillarne^. After leaving Gougane Barra, the road to Killarney goes through the Pass of Keim-au-Ezgh, a deep ravine forming the channel of a mountain torrent, the precipitous sides adorned with holly, arbutus, and other evergreen shrubs, and a profusion of wild flowers. The pass is a mile in length, and barely wide enough for a road beside the stream. At Ballilicky Bridge the beautiful Bay of Bantry comes into WATERFALL AT GLEXGARIFF view, and the road from Macroom, having joined the one from Bantry, leads along the shore to Glengaj'iff. — This lovely village, thirty-three miles from Cork, seems likely to become more and more a favourite resort both for invalids and for tourists. It is situated where a long narrow moun- tain glen opens upon the bay, and the scenery on every side is ex- quisite and varied. The mildness of the climate is proved by the luxuriance o{ the shrubs and flowers, holly and arbutus growing C(3C Xal^es ot l?iUante^. to the water's edge, and geraniums, myrtles, etc., requiring no shelter during winter. There are two good hotels and a Protestant church in the village. The principal objects of interest at Glengariff are the Water- fall ; Glengariff Lodge, the beautiful demesne of Lord Bantry ; and Cronizveir s Bridge, on the old Berehaven Road. The bridgfe, now a ruinous structure, is said to have been built by order of Cromwell at an hour's notice. From a little hill near it, there may CROMWELL'S BRIDGE AT GLENGARIFF. be obtained a glorious panorama of sea, mountains, rivers, water- falls, glen, and bay. The drive (of twenty-one miles) between Glengariff and Ken- mare is very fine, the road commanding splendid views both of coast and mountain scenery. Kenmare is a small, pleasant town. KILLARNEV. The town of Killarney is the property ot the Earl of Kenmare. and is of comparatively recent date. In 1747, when the fourth Lord of Kenmare came of age. the town consisted only of a dozen or two of thatched cottages or cabins, in the midst of 14 Q^be %akc6 of Ikillarnes. which stood his lordship's residence and a few slated houses. As the beauties of the neighbouring lakes became more popular, the town gradually improved, until it attained its present flourishing condition. At the best, however, it is but a poor place, and com- mands no view of the lakes, owing to its own depressed position and the intervention of the thick woods of Lord Kenmare's estate. Its distance from the north-east shore of the Lower Lake is about a mile. There are few public buildings in the town worthy of notice except the new Roman Catholic Cathedral, which is a splendid building. The late Mr. Pugin designed it, and super- intended its erection. The Roman Catholic Bishop's Palace, the Lunatic Asylum, the Friary, the Monastery, the Convents, and the Poor-house are all handsome structures. The Ardittus Factories here are worthy of a visit. Every species of useful article is made out of arbutus and the other woods of the neighbourhood — needle-cases, card-cases, paper-cutters, etc., and large quantities of these are bought by tourists. Larger articles, such as desks and work-boxes, are also made in a neat and ele- gant manner. Young damsels, carrying basketfuls of the smaller articles, assail strangers constantly ; and really some of the pro- ducts of the factories are worth purchasing on account of their beauty, if not as souvenirs of one's visit to the greenest spot in the Emerald Isle. Passing onwards, we skirt the northern shore of the lake, and are disappointed to find that, although close to it, the glimpses we obtain through the thick screen of foliage are few and unsatis- factory. But, reflecting that no earthly pleasure is without alloy, we do not murmur, especially when we consider what is yet before us. Beggars used to be a great pest, and not unfrequently a great amusement, at Killarney, being possessed of the wit and good- humoured impudence which seem to be the Irishman's birthright. Z\)c %si\\e6 ot IkUlarne^. 15 Now, however, a workhouse having been erected, and Government provision extended to them, they do not beset the stranger in such numbers as formerly. At a distance of about six miles from Killarney, where we come to Beaufort Bridge, the road turns sharp to the left and crosses the river Laune. The view of the river from the bridge is fine. It is here that the detour to the Castle of Dunloe is made by those who choose to visit it. One mile further, over a wild country, and we reach the entrance to the Gap of Dunloe ; but before penetrating the gorge, let us turn aside to examine the Cave of Du7iloe. This curious relic of antiquity was discovered in a field adjoining the road by some labourers in 1838. While constructing a fence, they broke into a subterranean cave, which was found to contain several human skulls and bones. On the stones of the roof were found written characters of a kind similar to what is called the Ogham writing — a style of writing said to have been practised by the Druids before the introduction of Christianity. Not far from this stands the cottage of the celebrated Kate Kearney, in regard to whom the poet asks — " Oh, did ye ne'er hear of Kate Kearney? She Uves by the Lakes of Killarney." And we may add, without attempting to throw the fact into the form of verse, that her grand-daughter will supply us with capital cakes and goat's milk. THE GAP OF DUNLOE. The road through the Gap runs due south to the head of the Upper Lake. The Gap of Dunloe is a wild deep pass, running due north and south between the Macgillicuddy Reeks and the Tomies Moun- tain. It is a singularly wild gorge, about four or five miles in extent from the northern entrance to the Black Valley, and is more i6 ^be %nhC5 of 1killarne\?. KATE KEARNEY like a gigantic split in the mountains than an ordinary glen. There is great diversity of opinion in regard to the Gap. Some writers express unbounded admiration of it ; others seem to think the praises usually bestowed on it undeserved. Its chief characteristics are its narrowness and the abrupt steepness of its lofty boundaries. The passage through it is easy both for horsemen and pedestrians, but cars can only advance as far as Cushvallcy Lough. The rocks that have fallen from the sides of the precipices are scattered all over the bottom of the pass, and are occasionally receiving acces- sions to their number. Sterling Coyne writes of the Gap thus : — " On either hand the craggy cliffs, composed of huge masses of projecting rocks, suspend fearfully over the narrow pathway, and at every step threaten with destruction the adventurous explorer of this desolate scene. In the interstices of these immense fragments a few shrubs and trees shoot out in fantastic shapes, which, with the dark ivy and luxuriant heather, contribute to the picturesque effect of the landscape. A small but rapid stream called the Loe traverses the whole length of the glen, expanding itself at different points into five small lakes, each having its proper name, but which ^be Xakcs of Ikillarncv?. 17 are known in the aggregate as the CiLvimeen Thomcen Lakes, The road, which is a mere rugged footpath, constructed on the frequent brink of precipices, follows the course of the stream, and in two places crosses it by means of bridges. One of these stands at the head of a beautiful rapid, where the water rushes in whitening foam over the rocky bed of the torrent. The part of the glen which attracts most admiration is that where the valley becomes so con- tracted as scarcely to leave room between the precipitous sides for the scanty pathway and its accompanying strand." THE TL'KNI'IICE, GAP OF DUNLOE. Another writer tells us that the Gap did not seem to him worthy of its reputation : — " It is merely a deep valley, and the rocks which flank the valley are neither lofty nor very remarkable in their form." A third writer, on the other hand, says : — " The very entrance to the Gap is a sudden introduction to its marvels : the visitor is at once convinced that he is about to visit a scene rarely paralleled for wild grandeur and stern magnificence. The singular character of the deep ravine would seem to confirm 3 i8 ^be %n\{cs of Ikillarne^. the popular tradition, that it was produced by the stroke of the sword of one of the giants of old, which divided the mountains and left them apart for ever." Amid such conflicting opinions, we think it best to leave the visitor to form his own opinion from his own observation. There are a few cottages at the entrance of the Gap, and a very little cultivated land is visible here and there. Within the glen itself there are only a few small trees and a little underwood ; yet there are habitations somewhere, as we learn from the sudden appearance of friendly dames, who offer us goat's milk or whisky, either sepa- rate or mingled, as may best suit our taste. After passing Cosaun Lough, Black Lake, Ciishvalley LoiigJi, Auger Lough, and Black Lough (all of which, except the last, abound in fish), we reach a curious mass of rock called THE TURNPIKE. Beyond this cars cannot advance ; we therefore alight and proceed on foot or on ponies. Of the Turnpike we give a repre- sentation in our engraving. It is a prominent object among the grotesquely-formed rocks that crowd the glen. The enormous masses that have from time to time fallen from the steep cliffs above formerly rendered this pass almost inaccessible, but human perseverance at length overcame the difficulty by cutting a road among them. Just above the Turnpike, we reach the Serpejit Lake, in the wildest part of the Gap. As we approach, we hear the murmur of the water passing through a subterranean channel. It was here (so says tradition) that St. Patrick destroyed the last of the serpents ; hence the name of the lake, w^hich lies deep and dark in its gloomy bed, overshadowed by the frowning mountains, without a ripple to disturb the death-like stillness of its black bosom. All along the pass, our ears are filled with the rude music of the brawling stream, which bounds, gambols, dashes, glides, and ^bc XakC5 ot l^illarnei^. 19 warbles through it, varying its mood according to the nature of the ground. Beyond this, the valley gradually widens until it attains its highest elevation, near the southern extremity of the glen. There are some magnificent echoes here, which we must not omit to awaken by means of a small cannon which is kept for the purpose. The shot in itself is insignificant, but the effect produced is absolutely sublime. Shots, peals of sound, and thunderbolts, leap, burst, crash from the surrounding hills. Dells, cliffs, rocks, and peaks pour forth a torrent of rolling rage, as if the signal had let loose the angry spirits of the mountains. Gradually the sounds decrease, and die in fitful mutterings. Beyond Cushvalley Lough, the road rises upwards of 400 feet in the course of two miles, and passes over the shoulder of the Purple Mountain, which is 2,740 feet high. On emerging from the glen at the southern extremity, a turning in the path suddenly reveals to us the BLACK VALLEY. "^ This dark vale is also named Cooni-a-Dhuv. It bursts suddenly on our gaze as we issue from the Gap of Dunloe, and the wild, savage grandeur of its gloomy depths is very impressive. One of our coloured pictures gives a view of this valley. Within its dark shades we observe a pure white cascade, which somewhat relieves its gloom ; while, in its turn, the Black Valley forms a striking con- trast to much of the rich and brilliant scenery that meets our view in other directions. The whole scene from this point is indeed surpassingly grand and beautiful, and we appreciate it the more highly by reason of our recent toilsome march through the barren Gap of Dunloe. The Black Valley is a deep, dark, dreary glen, buried in the midst of and overshadowed by steep mountains. At one end of it lies a little tarn, or dark still lough, called Lough-an-bric-dearg — " The Lake of the Red Trout ;" and along the bottom of the vale 20 trbe Xakc6 of IkiUarue^. there are several other lakes of smaller size. The Black Valley is the perfection of lonely wildness. Its darkness arises partly from the height of the surrounding mountains, and partly from the quantity of peaty matter held in solution by the water. In the neighbourhood we turn aside to visit the LOGAN STONE. This is one of those curiously balanced stones which have so long puzzled philosophers in their attempts to ascertain how they THE LOGAN STONE. got into their extraordinary position. It is a huge rock, which, though upwards of twenty feet in circumference and many tons in weight, may be moved by a slight touch. Some writers allude to this stone as a work of art, and suppose that it must have been placed in its present position by the Druids, who seem to be saddled with everything in nature and art that is unaccountable ! Recent discoveries in science, however, attribute the position of such stones to the action of glaciers, of which there were many on the mountains of Scotland in the ages of remote antiquity. Doubtless the heights of Ireland were also clothed with the same wonder-working agents ; and hence the rocking -stone. Indeed ^be Xakes of 1killarne\?. 21 this theory may be held to have been confirmed by the observa- tion of Arctic voyagers, who saw many large boulder stones left, by the melting ice, balanced on the top of small stones and rocky points. We now return to the road, and, following for some distance the course of the Geaj'hameen River, which flows out of the B-lack Valley, and through the demesne that formerly belonged to Lord Brandon and still retains his name, we arrive at the spot where our boat awaits us. Embarking, we sweep down the stream, and out upon the placid bosom of the UPPER LAKE. ^' The Upper Lake is only two and a half miles in length, and little more than a mile in breadth at the widest part. Twelve small islands rest on its bosom ; one of the largest of which. Arbutus Island, is completely covered with the beautiful plant from which it derives its name. The beauty of the scenery of the Killarney district is much en- hanced by the tree-shrub called the Arbutus tmedo (or strawberry tree), which, with its singularly bright green leaves, adds a rich variety to the foliage of the forest trees by which it is surrounded. In Octo- ber, when it is covered with scarlet berries and clusters of flowers, it is particularly beautiful. It is uncertain whether or not the arbu- tus is a native of Ireland. It is found in all parts of the island, though nowhere in such luxuriance as at Killarney. The islands on the Upper Lake are covered with vegetation, amongst which the arbutus is conspicuous, contrasting well with the varied foliage and the gray rocks around it. So closely do the mountains surround this lake that, on looking up at them from the water, it seems as if there were no outlet from the wild vale. Down the sides of the hill rush numerous feeders of the lake — some of them mere stream- lets, brawling impetuously down their steep courses ; others, wild torrents, thundering down their respective gorges. 22 Ubc XaKes of IRtUarnes. It may be here mentioned that although these lakes have many feeders they have but one outlet — namely, the river Laime, at the extreme end of the Lower Lake. By means of this river it is connected with the sea, which is distant about seven or eight miles. The principal feeders are the following : — the Gearhameen River, flowing from the Black Valley, which falls into the head of the Upper Lake ; the rivers flowing from the Devil's Punch-Bowl, in Mangerton Mountain, and from the summit of Glena ; the Flesk, the Deenah, and several others. By most travellers, the Upper Lake is considered decidedly the finest of the three ; but there are not wanting a singular few whose passion for quiet scenery leads them to prefer the Lower Lake. The difference in the scenery between this and its sister lakes is indeed very marked, the Upper Lake being more thoroughly Alpine in its character, and singularly romantic. Every variety of wild scenery meets the eye, intermingled with just enough of a softer character to prevent harshness. Here bold promontories and precipices, crowned with* herbage and seamed with rents and fissures, jut out into the dark water ; there the verdure slopes more gradually to the margin, and the overhanging boughs kiss the lake. In some places the scene is covered with thick, large, and umbrageous forest trees ; in others, the sides of the moun- tains are enriched by the varied hues of green turf and purple heather, contrasting well with the cold gray of spots where the bald rock refuses to receive from the kindly hand of Nature a covering of verdure, which everywhere else is indeed superabun- dant. The whole scene is one of overpowering loveliness and majesty, and its softer features — the luxuriant verdure, the green islets resting on the bosom of the deep still water, and the mur- mur of numberless tiny streams — invest it with an air of profound repose. " In passing through this lake," writes Dr. Forbes, " and along the narrow river-like strait that connects it with the Middle and ^be Xakes of Ikillnvnc^, 23 Lower Lakes, I could no longer doubt that the views now pre- sented to us were at once grander, more picturesque, and more beautiful than any we had seen or could see from its banks. Be- sides the charm — great in itself — of floating placidly over the calm surface of the mirrored water, the spectator from this central station can command at once the clustering islands, of every variety of form and hue ; the tree-crowned shores of the lake ; the encircling slopes green far up with impenetrable wood, and then towering to the sky abrupt and dark ; while at every turn of his head he has still fresh aspects of the picture, and none alike, except in possessing the common charm of a beauty and a grandeur that touch the heart. It is impossible to convey in words the special features of the landscape which, when combined, produce so exquisite a result ; but I think few of those who have the good fortune to visit the Upper Lake and Long Range of Killarney, will either deny the charm, or think that it may be equalled or excelled by many other scenes of a kindred sort." " Once embarked on its waters," says Windele, " and looking back, the illusion of its being altogether land-locked and enclosed, without any opening or mode of egress, seems nearly complete." " Abrupt and sheer the mountains sink At once upon the level brink, And just a trace of silver sand Marks where the waters meet the land.'' Strange stories, as a matter of course, are related of the islands here. M' C art J ly- Move's Island is exceedingly rich and beautiful, being almost entirely covered with arbutus. Passing the long promontory named Coleman s Eye, at the north-eastern extremity of the Upper Lake, we enter the LONG RANGE. This is a rapid stream or strait upwards of four miles in length, which conveys the waters of the Upper Lake into Muckross Lake. 24 ^be Xakes of IkiUarne^. The rocks at the entrance to the Long Range have fantastic shapes, and are marked in several places with the footprints of men of gigantic stature. The origin of these marks — of which there are many about the lakes — is uncertain, but they are probably due to volcanic action ; nevertheless, our guide will give us graphic details thereof on the least encouragement ! Passing rapidly onward with the current amid softer and still beautiful scenery, we arrive, about midway down the channel, at the EAGLE'S NEST. ^ The extraordinary echo here is a point of great interest, It is perhaps the best of all the echoes of Killarney, The hill is conical in form, and is covered at its base with evergreens ; but the sum- mit is naked, and on the top, which is inaccessible, the eagles have built their nests for centuries : hence the name. Its height is i,ioo feet. "It is scarcely," writes Weld, " in the power of language to convey an idea of the extraordinary effect of the echoes under this cliff, whether they repeat the dulcet notes of music, or the loud discordant report of a cannon." Continuing our voyage, while the echoes are still ringing in our ears, we reach THE OLD WEIR BRIDGE. Z- This bridge spans the waters of the Long Range at their most rapid part. It has two arches, only one of which is navigable by boats, and here the tourist will have an opportunity of trying his nerves while the boat is running the rapid. Travellers who happen to be at all nervous usually disembark above the rapids at Old Weir Bridge ; but there is no real danger. Having passed through the " Old Wair," or, as the boatmen delight in phrasing it, " shot the rapids," we emerge into an extremely lovely scene, named the Meeting of the Waters, the Long Range being divided into two channels by Dinish Island. By the westward channel we may XLbe OLaftcs ot IktUarne^. 25 MUCKROSS LAKE, FROM BRICKEEN BRIDGE. descend to the Lower Lake, by the Bay of Glena to the eastward flows into Muckross Lake, under The channel THE RUSTIC BRIDGE. This bridge connects Dinish Island with the mainland, and is the last of the three bridges that enable tourists to pass through Muckross Demesne, and enable them, if they so wish it, to accom- plish the entire circuit of the Middle Lake by car. Passing under the Rustic Bridge, we now sweep out upon the beautiful expanse of MUCKROSS LAKE. This sheet of water is the second in size, and is a little larger than the Upper Lake. The Muckross Demesne separates it from the Lower Lake. It is also named Tore Lake and the Middle Lake. There are several curious and picturesque caves here which, if we have leisure, we ought not to omit. The echoes, too, although not so remarkable as those elsewhere, are still very beautiful. Dinish Island is the only island of any size belonging to Muckross. It may be said to share Brickeen Island with the Lower Lake. If time permit, we may row round the lake and awaken its echoes on this excursion ; but if not, we ought to devote part of another day to it. 4 26 ^be Xakes ot Iftlllarnes. COLLEEN BAWN CAVES, MUCKROSS LAKE. It is not one-fourth of the size of the Lower Lake, and in beauty, as in position, it holds a place between its two sisters. We may land on Dinish Island if so disposed, or, continuing our voyage, row homeward over the Lower Lake. Proceeding by the Kenmare Road, and passing the Kenmare Demesne, etc., towards Tore Mountain, we obtain in the course of the drive exquisite views of the lakes and scenery. The first object that claims our attention is the TORC WATERFALL. This beautiful cascade is justly famous, and is considered, beyond all comparison, the finest in the lake district. Our chromo view gives a good idea of its general appearance ; but no engraving, however faithfully drawn, can give a correct idea of a waterfall for its effect on the mind lies fully as much in that which is addressed to the ear as in that which meets the eye. The path that leads to the fall is by the side of the dashing stream, which seems to hasten to throw itself into the placid lake m order to rest after the tumultuous leap which it has just taken. The roar of the water is heard as we approach, but the fall is concealed from view by the trees and shrubs and bushes until we are close XLhc XaKes of IkiUarne^. 27 upon it. Then it bursts upon us, plunging down a height between 100 and 150 feet with a thundering roar. It must be borne in mind, however, that the " roar " depends very much on the condi- tion, at the time being, of the stream which utters it. It is quite possible that, if the weather has been dry for some time before the Tore Waterfall is visited, our description may appear overstrained. The rocks on either side are precipitous, and covered with shrubs, trees, and ferns. The descent of the first part of the fall is in a broad sheet. The stream afterwards takes a number of broken leaps, and rushes through a deep narrow gorge before falling into Muckross Lake. A winding footpath conducts to a spot whence we have a fine view of the Tore or Muckross Lake and Demesne. In this neighbourhood stands a pretty cottage pleasantly situated on cultivated ground between the lake and the hill. Descending to the road we continue our drive. About a hundred yards from the entrance to the waterfall, we turn to the right and enter MUCKROSS DEMESNE. This beautiful spot occupies the peninsula which separates the lake of the same name from the Lower Lake. This peninsula is broken up at its extremity into little islands, which, however, are connected with each other and with the mainland by means of bridges. Proceeding along the " New Drive," we are charmed with the lovely views of the Middle Lake on the left, and of the Tore and Mangerton Mountains at our back. The character of these mountains is almost Alpine, and can scarcely be surpassed in loveliness. Continuing our way past the residence of the pro- prietor of these beautiful grounds for a distance of about a mile, we arrive at MUCKROSS ABBEY. ^ "^ - This venerable and interesting ruin is situated a few hundred yards from the village of Cloghereen. It was founded for Fran- ciscan friars, according to some writers, in 1440 ; according to others, 28 ^be Xakes of IkUlarnei^. a century earlier, by the McCarthys, Princes of Desmond. But it is said that, before the erection of the present edifice, there existed an ecclesiastical building on the same spot, which was destroyed about the year 1190 by fire. The original name of the abbey was Irelough, or " The Building at the Lake ; " and assuredly the monks of old knew how to choose a good site, for that of this venerable ruin is most exquisite. It is so luxuriantly umbrageous that the ivy-covered building is not seen until the visitor stands close beside it, and gazes on the mouldering relics of antiquity. The spot was chosen by the ancient chiefs for their place of sepulture, and among them were O'Sullivan Mor and O'Donoghue. Their tombstones still exist in different stages of decay, some with and some without epitaphs, and all more or less entwined in the embrace of ivy. The building consists of two principal parts, the church and the convent. The length of the former is 100 feet ; its breadth, 24 feet ; and the transept is 36 feet long. It is divided into three compartments — choir, nave, and south transept, over the intersection of which stands a square massive tower of no great height. An elegant pointed doorway, covered with a soft garb of ivy, forms the entrance ; and through this doorway is seen the great eastern window of the choir — in which part of the building the tombs are very numerous. The best preserved portion of the abbey is the cloister, in the centre of which grows a magnificent yew-tree. It is probable that this tree is as old as the abbey itself Its cir- cumference is thirteen feet. The refectory, the kitchen, and the dormitories are still in pretty good preservation ; and the great fire-place of the first attests the attention that the friars gave to good cheer. Close to the abbey graveyard is a walk called " The Lady's Walk." It is exceedingly beautiful, winding along the borders of the Lower Lake for two or three miles. Seats are placed along it at intervals. There is also another walk, which is even more ex- quisite, named " The Rock Walk." It extends along the borders ^be ILaKcs ot fkiUacnes. 29 of Tore or Muckross Lake for two miles, and is one of the most delightful short rambles that can be found in the neighbourhood. Leaving Muckross Abbey, we proceed along the wooded penin- sula, and are charmed and constantly surprised by the most beau- tiful and romantic views of the Lower Lake on the right and the Tore Lake on the left. The trees have been cut down in various parts of the grounds to enable the visitors to obtain the finest pos- sible prospects of both lakes. After passing a small lough (Doo/ag/i), and the " old mines," the road crosses Brickeen Bridge, whose single arch connects the pen- insula with Brickeen Island. From the top of this bridge a most charming view of the Middle and Lower Lakes is obtained. Crossing this, we reach another bridge, which connects it with — DINISH ISLAND. This island is close to the mouth of the Long Range, at the western end of Tore Lake. Its name is derived from Dine-iske, the " beginning of the water." Here there is a pretty, picturesque cottage, erected by the pro- prietor for the gratuitous use of visitors, whose wants are supplied by a civil and obliging housekeeper. Dinish Island is almost en- tirely covered with rich wood, among which the arbutus is con- spicuous. Semi-tropical plants and shrubs also grow in great luxuriance. Having walked about the island, from which an ex- quisite view of the Old Weir Bridge is obtained, we take boat and row round the shores of the MIDDLE LAKE. Thereafter we emerge, through Brickeen Bridge, into the LOWER LAKE. This lake is also named Lough Leane, and in it there are numerous lovely islets. The greater part of a day may be pleasantly ^bc Xa?\e6 of mil^vnc^. spent in rowing among these islands, in landing on one and another of them, and in listening to the wild legends of the lake. The Lower Lake is by far the largest of the three, being seven miles long and four broad. Over its ample surface are scattered nearly thirty islands of various sizes and forms, some of which are covered with trees, while others are mere rocks. One of these, which formerly had no other designation than the Gun Rock, was named the Prince's Island, in commemoration of His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales's visit in 1858. It lies near the eastern shore of Glena Bay, close to Brickeen Island. The principal islands in this lake are Ross Island and Innis- fallen. Brickeen Island, at its southern extremity, belongs properly to Muckross or Tore Lake. Particularly fine views of the Lower Lake are obtainable from various points on its northern shore. Those who visit the Upper Lake first, and descend through Tore Lake into the Lower Lake, will probably experience a feeling of disappointment at first on beholding the last of these. This, however, will be owing to the un- favourable position from which the lake is viewed, and also to the natural effect of a transition from wild to soft scenery. In writing on this subject, Dr. Forbes says : — " When, leaving these, however " (the Upper and Middle Lakes), " we came fairly into the open expanse of the Lower Lake, beauty and grandeur seemed to us to have almost vanished, and left us little to admire but a fine expanse of water, such as we may see in any loAvland lake. This was certainly the first im- pression made on my mind as our boat carried us across it to Ross Island ; its tame and flat shores, and the absence of all back- ground of mountains, placing it in striking contrast with all we had left behind us. This impression, however, was found to be considerably lessened, but by no means removed, when we after- wards traversed the lake in the opposite direction, and when we viewed it from the shore of Ross Island and Lord Kenmare's Zbc Xakcs of Ikillarne^. Demesne, at the top of the bay, looking south. Then, indeed, when seen with its barrier and background of noble mountains — the Tomies, Glena, the Tore — and while the tameness of its northern, eastern, and western shores was kept out of sight, its great expanse of surface began to tell as a noble feature, and the whole prospect became harmonized into beauty, at least, if not into grandeur also. While thus admitting that my first unfavourable impressions of this lake were not only based on imperfect observation, but were deepened and coloured by previous prepossessions, I must ever be- lieve that the Upper Lake, with its terminal straits, is in every re- spect, except that of magnitude of expanse, vastly — I had almost said infinitely — superior to the Lower." While we agree with Dr. Forbes in this opinion, we cannot, however, help feeling that the Upper Lake is indebted to the Lower for much of its power over the mind of the beholder. Indeed, the advantage of each to the other is reciprocal, on the principle of contrast — the soft beauty of the one setting off and rendering more agreeably piquant the wild magnificence of the other. Among the other points of interest in this lake are several curi- ous islands, connected with which there are innumerable legends, nearly all having reference to the great family of O'Donoghue. These will be related by the guides with much gusto. One of the islands is called G Donoghiie s Prison, another his Stable. His Table, his Honeycombs, his Pulpit, etc., are all pointed out and expatiated on. Formerly, G Donoghue s Horse was one of the lions, and was really a curious rock ; but from some cause or other, prob- ably a storm, it has followed its rider and disappeared. Turning to the left, after passing through Brickeen Bridge, we make our first visit on the Lower Lake to GLENA BAY. This is an exceedingly lovely and romantic spot. Nestling at the base of the Tomies Mountain, whose sides are covered with Zbc Xakes of Ikillarnei?. the most luxuriant growth of wood, and on whose shores every variety of fern thrives, this Httle valley, for primitive beauty and an air of calm and peaceful repose, may be considered one of the gems of the lakes. Indeed, many consider it '' the gem ; " and of a surety it richly deserves its name, — Glena signifying " the glen of good fortune." The Earl of Kenmare has built a charming cottage here for the convenience of visitors — that is, to dine or lunch in (they bring their own provisions) — and access to it may be had at all times. The views from Glena are exceedingly fine, and the scenery around it is thought by many to be the finest in the Lower Lake. Cruising along the base of the Tomies, and passing the " Minister's Back," " Darby's Garden," Stag and Burnt Islands, we reach O'SULLI van's waterfall. This cascade is situated at the foot of the Tomies, a mountain of about 2,413 feet high, which lies near the west shore of the Lower Lake, The stream which forms this waterfall separates the Tomies from the mountains of Glena. As we approach, the hills have a grand appearance and a broken outline, forming a fine background to the noble lake. Rich wood clothes their base, but further up they are covered with heath, and here and there are furrowed with water-courses. On landing, we follow the track along the rivulet up a glen, at the head of which is the waterfall ; but so thick is the foliage of intervening shrubs and trees, that we do not catch sight of it until long after we have heard its roar. Some visitors go the length of saying that this fall is superior in beauty to all the others in the district, not even excepting those of Tore and Derrycunihy. This, however, is by no means the general opinion. There are three successive falls. The first drops perpendicu- larly a depth of twenty feet into a basin, from which, rushing be- tween two overhanging rocks, the stream makes its way over the second precipice into another basin, whence it plunges over the Zbc Xakes of fcillarne^. last descent, and rushes onwards to find its level in the lake. The entire height of this cascade is about seventy feet. Under a projecting rock fringed with creepers and foliage is a cave called O'Sullivan's Grotto, where a seat enables the visitor to rest, and to enjoy the view of the fall and its picturesque scenery. There is a magnificent tree in the vicinity named the " Royal Oak," which is eighty feet in height and fourteen in circumference. Hav- ing thoroughly enjoyed the beauties of this spot, where " The wild, the beautiful combined Doth charm the heart and soothe the mind," we continue our course across the lake to INNISFALLEN ISLAND. This isle is thought to be more beautiful and varied than any of its comrades. It .is undoubtedly more interesting. The foli- age is so thick that it seems to be actually growing out of the lake. Magnificent ash trees, elms, and hollies cover its emerald surface ; but the arbutus, so plentiful elsewhere, is not to be found here. Innisfallen contains about twenty-five acres of the most fertile land, and is celebrated for its ruined abbey (which we shall visit ere long) and its " Annals." It lies less than half a mile to the north-west of Ross Island, and about a mile from the northern shore of the lake. On one side, the island is rocky and elevated ; on the other, it slopes toward the lake. Although, from a short distance, it ap- pears to be one impenetrable mass of foliage, the interior is broken up into every variety of the most charming scenery on a small scale. There are thickets, forests, dells, lawns, knolls, and hills, in miniature, with cattle grazing on the lawns, and birds twittering joyously among the bushes and majestic trees. The shores are everywhere indented with small creeks, bays, and hollows. It is indeed a perfect paradise, and we do not wonder that the monks of old selected it as a residence. The verdure everywhere is 34 ^be Xahes of IkiUarne^. peculiarly rich, and some of the trees have attained to an enormous size. There is one holly tree, in particular, which is the admiration of all tourists. It is supposed to be the largest holly in existence, and measures fifteen feet in circumference. There is also another tree on this island which deserves notice ; it is a combination of a holly, an ash, a hawthorn, and ivy, which are so closely united as to have the appearance of being the product of one stem. Moore has sung the praises of this island in the following lines : — '* Sweet Innisfallen, fare thee well, May calm and sunshine long be thine ; How fair thou art let others tell, While but \.o feel how fair be mine. " Sweet Innisfallen, long shall dwell In memory's dream that sunny smile Which o'er thee on that evening fell When first I saw thy fairy isle." Innisfallen Abbey is supposed to have been founded by St. Finan about the year 600. The ruins lie scattered about the island. The celebrated " Annals of Innisfallen " were composed here by two monks. This work, which is among the earliest records of Irish history, was written on parchment. The original manuscript, con- taining fifty-seven quarto leaves, is now in the Bodleian Library at Oxford ; but it was preserved for several centuries in the Abbey of Innisfallen. It contains a History of the World down to the arrival of St. Patrick in Ireland in the year 432, and from that period it is a History of Ireland down to 1320. There are several copies of the work in existence, one of which is in the library of Trinity College, Dublin. From many passages in these Annals we learn that the monks did not seem to have enjoyed their little isle altogether unmolested in the so-called "good old times." In one place we read thus: — "Anno 11 80. — This Abbey of Innisfallen being ever esteemed a paradise and a secure sanctuary, the treasure and the most valuable effects of the whole county were deposited in the XLhc XaKe6 ot Ikillanie^. 35 hands of the clergy ; notwithstanding which, we find the abbey was plundered in this year by iMaolduin, son of Daniel O'Donoghue. Many of the clergy were slain, and even in their cemetery (?), by the McCarthys. But God soon punished this act of impiety and sacrilege, by bringing many of its authors to an untimely end." Quitting with reluctance this hallowed spot, we direct our course to ROSS CASTLE, This is a very fine ruin, much of which is still uninjured by time. It was formerly the stronghold of the great O'Donoghue family, of which the legends are innumerable and most wonderful. ROSS CASTLE. Our guide will undoubtedly favour us with as many of these as we desire. One member of this family in particular shines out promi- nently as a remarkable hero. A window in the castle is pointed out as that through which this chieftain leaped when he left the regions of earth and took up his permanent abode at the bottom of the lake, where, we are given to understand, he now dwells happily ! The castle is founded on a limestone rock, and is a massive square building supported on the land side by strong buttresses. A spiral stone staircase in the interior enables us to mount to the top, whence a splendid view of the lake may be had ; but the 36 ^be Xahes of Ikillarne^. ascent is not free from danger. In days of old it must have been a place of considerable strength ; and now it forms one of the chief ornaments of the Lower Lake — its picturesque ivy-clad walls being visible from almost every point of view. Ross Castle figures in history as holding out resolutely against the Parliamentary forces. In 1652, it was besieged by Ludlow and Sir Hardress Waller, to whom it ultimately surrendered. It was under command of Lord Muskerry at the time. Probably it would have made a stouter resistance had not the superstitious Irish soldiers been intimidated by the appearance of boats, " ships of war," on the lake ; which they deemed to be the fulfilment of an ancient prophecy, to the effect that Ross Castle would be impreg- nable until it should be surrounded by ships. In Ludlow's memoirs the affair is thus related : — " When we had received our boats, each of which was capable of containing one hundred and twenty men, I ordered one of them to be rowed about the water, in order to find out the most convenient place for landing upon the enemy : which they perceiving, thought fit by a timely submission to pre- vent the danger that threatened them." A walk round Ross Island will be found extremely interesting. There are great varieties of evergreens growing upon it ; amongst which the most striking, from their great size, are the arbutus, holly, and yew. Leaving behind us the delightful shades of Ross, with its his- torical reminiscences, we " steer our bark " for home, with appetites fully attuned to do ample justice to the many rich and good things prepared for us by " mine host," and to dream afresh of the many marvels and beauties witnessed during our second day at " all- beautiful Killarney " ASCENT OF MANGERTON. By ascending this mountain, we shall not only be rewarded with a magnificent view of the whole lake and mountain scener\', but we ^be 3Lakes of Ikillarne^. shall have the whole district mapped out at our feet, and shall thus be enabled to form a correct idea of the relative positions of locali- ties that we may have passed through on former occasions. Although only the second highest in the vicinity, this mountain will be found quite high enough for a good view, and sufficiently trying to our thews and sinews, unless we have been in training for some time previously. Mangerton is about 2,756 feet high, and lies between three and four miles to the eastward of th'e Upper Lake, and seven miles from Killarney. It is very rugged in many places ; nevertheless it may be ascended part of the way on ponies. THE DEVILS PL-NXH-BOWL On these sure-footed animals we pass over bogs and along broken paths by the brink of precipices until we gain the DeviVs Punch- Bowl^ a dark tarn in a chaotic gorge of the mountain. There are no trout in this lake, but they abound in the streams that flow out of it. On the A\ay up we are sure to be met by a number of girls who offer us potheen and goat's milk " for a consideration." The view from the top is magnificent be}'ond description, embracing the three lakes in the immediate foreground, the majestic range of the Macgillicuddy ; behind these, the west coast ; Iveragh ; Tar- bert ; Kilrush ; the Shannon ; Bantr}^ Ba)- ; the Bay of Dingle 38 ^be %tL\\c6 of Ikillarnc^. THE PRINCE ofWALES ROUTE from CORK TO KILLARNEY BY GLENGARRIFF. L y c and the broad waters of the Atlantic in the distance. The summit is flat, and principally covered with peat moss. In 1858 the Prince of Wales visited Killarney, and, accom- panied by the celebrated guide Spillane, went over the district. We extract the following interesting account of his ascent of Mangerton from a pamphlet printed at the Ec/io printing-office, Killarney, in which the royal visit is fully detailed : — " At an early hour Mr. Ross was, as usual, at his post to meet the wishes of the Prince, who proceeded with his party at a smart pace, in Colonel Herbert's carriage, to the foot of Mangerton, where Spillane had ponies in attendance. The day — like every one with which we have been blessed here since the arrival of the Prince — was most auspicious. While riding up the much-improved bridle- path to the Punch-Bowl, His Royal Highness occasionally paused ^be Xakcs ot IktUarne^. 39 to look back at the scene of enchantment, which at every interval assumed a new phase. At length he arrived at the summit of the mountain, at the back of the Punch-Bowl, and, standing at the little mound left by the ordnance sunxyors, he gazed around him with wonder, exclaiming from time to time,' This is glorious !' " There was a peculiar element of beauty in the glorious pano- rama on the occasion of the Prince's visit. Dark clouds enveloped the horizon where the Shannon ceased to be visible, while ever and anon streams of light swept along the bosom of the majestic river, as if to penetrate the dark barrier which would hide that grand area of waters upon which the navy of the world might float. Having drunk in all the glories of this wondrous scene, the Prince amused himself for some time by rolling large stones into the unfathomed depths of the Devil's Punch-Bowl, the satanic lake looking, ere thus disturbed, as dark and still as death. " Spillane then conducted the Prince to the Horse's Glen, with the weird and gloomy grandeur of which he was almost startled, ' Glotm-7ia-Coppal — the Horse's Glen ' — observ^e the writers [Mr. and Mrs. Hall] to whom I have already referred, ' may be likened to a gigantic pit surrounded on all sides by perpendicular mountain rocks, in which the eagle builds his nest without the fear of man. It is inaccessible, except from one particular spot, where its super- abundant waters have forced a passage into a still lower valley. Following the course of the stream, we are conducted through rich pasture-ground to the borders of a spacious lake — Lough Kittane ; in extent it nearly equals Tore Lake, but Nature has left it without adornment — surrounded by wild and barren hills.' It is, nevertheless, a lake pregnant with interest, as any one who reads poor Lynch's poem descriptive of ' Lough Kittane ! Lough Kittane ! amid dark mountains pillowed,' or traverses its weird solitude, will admit, despite the depreciating notice of Mr. and Mrs. Hall. " Having taken farewell of Mangerton and its wonders, the 40 Xlbc Xakes ot IkiUarne^* Prince and party returned to Cloghereen, the interesting village at its base. Here a scene of animated enjoyment awaited the Prince, Mr. Ross having placed a boat on the lakelet behind Roche's Muckross Hotel, known as Colonel Herbert's ' Preserves.' The Prince and his party were thus enabled to enjoy some excellent fishing ; after which they partook of an elegant lunch a/ fresco^ which Mr. Ross, with admirable foresight, had provided. Taking boat then at Muckross Quay, the Prince and party were borne, as quickly as a swift boat and eight gallant oarsmen could waft them, to the pier of the Royal Victoria Hotel, where a number of beautiful swans were floating about in downy majesty. On arriving at the hotel the Prince was presented with a sixteen pound salmon — the handsomest fish I ever saw — by Captain Philips (a gentleman who, with his lady, visits the ' Victoria ' every year to enjoy the fishing and other agrhnents with which the land of the lakes abounds). This right-royal fish was taken about an hour before, with a fly, by Mrs. Philips, whose good taste at once suggested that it would be a suitable and a welcome present to His Royal High- ness. The Prince, in a most gallant manner, expressed his grati- fication with the compliment paid him ; and I need not add that, both on the table and in the manipulating of the cuisme, justice was done to the trophy of the fair disciple of Izaak Walton." CARRAN TUAL. This is the loftiest mountain in the district, being 3,414 feet above the level of the sea. It is situated to the westward of the lakes, about fourteen miles distant from Killarney town, and forms one of the magnificent range of mountains termed the Macgillicuddy Reeks. Carran Tual signifies the " inverted sickle," and the mountain is so called from the peculiar form of its top. The road to Carran Tual is a wild but not uninteresting one. It skirts the northern end of the Lower Lake, crosses the bridge over the river Laune, ^be Xal^es of Ikillarne^. 41 and passes, on the left, the entrance to the celebrated Gap of Dunloe, which has already been fully described. The Prince of Wales when here (1858) ascended this mountain as well as Mangerton ; but tourists usually content themselves with the ascent of one — the views from both being, to a certain extent, similar in details though not in position. Arrived at the foot of the mountain, we find our ponies ready, and are immediately surrounded by a host of guides who proffer their services to conduct us to the summit. It may be as well to remark here that the guide selected will take as much as you choose to give him, but he will not be content with less than five shillings. Here, by the side of a small stream, there is a little cottage or hunting-box, which has been — with that hospitality and considera- tion for the wants of strangers peculiarly characteristic of the Irish gentlemen of the district — built chiefly for the accommodation of tourists. The ascent is rugged in many places, but it is gradual until we reach the " Hag's Glen," about three miles beyond the cottage, where we dismount and prepare to clamber. The spot is an extremely wild one. A dark mountain tarn lies on each side of us, said to be the baths of the "hag," by whom the glen is haunted ! Among the surrounding rocks, the hag's cap, crutch, chair, and even one of her teeth, are pointed out ! The mountain rises very abruptly here, and the two miles of ascent that follow are the most trying part of our day's work. But if we breast the hill with a stout heart, we may gain the summit in less than two hours. It is almost unnecessary to say that the view from the peak of this mountain — the highest in Ireland — is magnificent. We have now overtopped all the surrounding hills, and have a clear prospect all over the country, and all round the horizon. Lakes, rivers, moun- tains, valleys, gaps, gorges, woods, hills, and sea — in one word, the whole of the finest scene in Ireland lies at our feet. The highest point is marked by a small heap of stones, the first of which was placed there by His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales. Doubt- 6 42 ^be Xafees of Ikillarne^. less this cairn will grow to a considerable size in the course of time. Sometimes the return journey from Carran Tual is made by de- scending into the Black Valley, and proceeding to Lord Brandon's Cottage at the head of the Upper Lake, where a boat is ready to convey us by water to the pier on the Lower Lake ; but as this route is followed in the excursion up the Gap of Dunloe, we shall assume that our reader has returned by the road he came. Most climbers prefer Mangerton to Carran Tual, because it is easier of access as well as of ascent ; and the view from the top is quite as fine. AGHADOE RUINS. These are about two miles and a quarter from Killarney. They AGHADOE, FROM THE " PULPIT. consist of an Abbey, a Round Tower, and a Castle, and are said to be the most ancient ruins in Ireland. The Cathedral Church is a low oblong structure, containing two distinct chapels, the one of which is older than the other. The most interesting portion is the ornamental doorway, which is very beautiful. The Castle is a massive building, of about thirty feet in height, which is called sometimes the " Pulpit," and sometimes the '' Bishop's Chair." The walls are seven feet thick, and there is a flight of steps ^be Xakcs of fkillarne^. 43 within their thickness. It stands on the hillside within an earthen enclosure, and is evidently very ancient. The Round Tourer is worthy of notice chiefly on account of the view from its summit, which is the finest to be obtained in this quarter. Being situated on elevated ground, the Lower Lake is seen from it to great advantage, and the eye wanders with delight over the country where, in the days of old, M'Carthy Mor and O'Donoghue held sway and hunted the red deer. We shall now visit LORD KENMARE'S DEMESNE. In rambling about among the shades of these charming pleasure- grounds, which are generously thrown open to the public, we may spend a summer's day very pleasantly. The demesne consists of fifteen hundred acres, and extends along the eastern shore of the Lower Lake, views of which we occasionally obtain in open- ings among the trees. Besides these occasional views and the beauty of the grounds, there are objects of interest here for the antiquary. The Ciough-na-Qiddy, or " Stone of Cuddy," is a famous Druidi- cal relic, situated in the above demesne. It is surrounded by a circle of hawthorns and other trees, of great size and age. On the surface of it there are two hollows, with the water of which the blind peasants wash their eyes, in the hope of receiving their sight ! Sick persons also visit this stone, which is considered a holy and efficacious relic. The Deer Park is within walking distance, and strangers are allowed to wander at will among its glens of surpassing beauty. The Roman Catholic Cathedral, in the town of Killarney, may also be visited on this day. It is a magnificent structure. Also the Arbntus Factories of Killarney (for description of which see page 14), 44 Zhc XaKes of Ifcillarne^. DERRYCUNIHY CASCADE. This is a beautiful fall, and ought by no means to pass unvisited, Derrycunihy Cascade is supposed to have derived its name from an eccentric individual who leaped over it and left his footprints on a stone ! The fall is in the midst of very fine scenery. It plunges through a deep mountain chasm among broken rocks, and leaps over a precipice in white foam, sending a cloud of spray into DERRYCUNIHY COTTAGE the air. The beautiful cottage, erected by the Earl of Kenmare to celebrate the Queen's visit to Ireland in 1853, and at which she lunched, well deserves a visit. TORC MOUNTAIN. Tore is nearly 1,800 feet high. It is a beautiful hill of a conical form, standing in an isolated position between Mangerton and the Glena Mountain. From the former it is separated by the river flowing out of the Devil's Punch-Bowl, and from the latter by the deep gap which forms the channel of the stream flowing from the Upper Lake. On all sides the mountain rises up so abruptly as to give the idea almost of inaccessibility, naked precipices here and there adding to this impression and increasing the picturesque effect. There are few furrows on its side, and only one small stream called XLhc %n\\cs of Iftillarne^. 45 the Lein. The lower parts of the hill are covered with woods. As we have said, the hill is not easy of ascent, being very steep ; but, the top having been gained, the view that greets us amply repays the labour of ascending. There are some, we are aware, to whom no view whatever could repay the toil of climbing to a moun- tain-top ; so, for their comfort, we may say that i/iuc/i of the same view is to be had from many points of the road we are on, though not on so perfect or extensive a scale. The waters of Tore Lake are deepest at the foot of Tore Mountain ; and it is said that some- where in this locality the depths are illuminated in fine weather by a marvellous carbuncle of immense value ! To?r signifies *' wild boar," which seems to indicate that wild boars roamed here in days of old. KILLAGHUE CHURCH. Leaving Tore Mountain, we pass Tore Waterfall, and in due time come to the villasre of CLOGHEREEN. The pretty village of Cloghereen is close to the ruins of Muck- ross Abbey, and within a few minutes' walk of Muckross and Lower Lakes. The village is about three miles from Killarney. Cloghereen Pool, a pretty little lough, lies immediately behind it. The ancient 46 ^be Xaftcs of Ikillarne^. church of Killaghue stands on a height above the village, on which a memorial cross to the late Colonel Herbert has been erected by his tenantry. This cross is in the Ancient Irish style, and is a very handsome structure. Killaghue church is said to be the smallest in Ireland. From it may be had a fine view of Tore and Lower Lakes over the tree- tops. The entrance to Muckross Demesne is close at hand. Cloghereen is a neat clean village, and seems to thrive on tourists. The village school-house was erected by the Herbert family. GLEN FLESK. This beautiful glen lies to the south-east of, and quite near to, the town of Killarney. Here we may visit the '' Labig Owen," Flesk Castle, and the Druidical remains at Lissivigeen. The Flesk River, the principal feeder of the Lower Lake, is spanned by a bridge of twenty-one arches. The legends connected with it are innumerable, and are somewhat fabulous in character. Once it overflowed its banks, and among other freaks floated off a table from a cottage on which was seated a tailor, who not only himself escaped drowning, but also managed to save the three children of his employer. A cat was similarly carried off while asleep on a straw seat or mat. Puss floated about for five days, and was ultimately rescued near the village of Cloghereen. The adventure raised her immensely in the esteem of the peasants, who ever after regarded her as a cat which bore a " charmed life." The Circle of Lissivigeen, or, as it is sometimes spelled, Loisavi- geen, is a singular collection of stones, supposed to have been put up by the Druids of old. They stand on the summit of a hill a few hundred yards from the main road, and about two miles from Killarney. There are seven of them, each between three and four feet in height, forming a circle of fourteen feet diameter, which is enclosed by an outer earthen circle thirty-four feet in diameter. A short distance from this are two other stones, the larger of which is ^be Xakcs of 1kiUarne\2. 47 eleven feet in height. From the hill on which they stand we have a fine view of the Glen of AhaJmnning. The Labig Owen, or " Bed of Owen," in Glen Flesk, is literally a '' robbers' den " which has on more occasions than one afforded shelter to outlaws. It is admirably adapted for concealment or protection, being a flat space or cavern in the " Deamon's Cliff" of about twelve feet square. A ladder is required to enable us to enter, and the road is intricate and difficult. The last outlaw who occupied the cavern, about half a century ago, was a murderer. It is inaccessible on three sides, and might be easih' defended by one resolute man against any odds at the solitary approach. The celebrated Owen who has given his name to the spot was a McCarthy, an ally of the O'Donoghues of the Glen, a daring, hand- some rover, and a man of immense physical strength. After visiting Flesk Castle, we may return homewards by the old road which passes Lough Kittane. There are many Raths or caves in this neighbourhood, and hundreds of beautiful spots, a visit to which would amply reward us ; but our limits forbid our entering upon such objects and scenes. Indeed it is unnecessary, and therefore unadvisable, to be too minute in our descriptions. Half the pleasure that strangers derive from their visits to unknown and picturesque regions arises from the unexpected manner in which beautiful scenes burst upon them. In this view of the matter, we may remark that the sights and scenes of the Lake District are fortunately too numerous to be all mentioned in detail. We take leave of our reader, therefore, with the assurance that there is much more to see than has been described in the foregoing pages ; and that description, however vivid and truthful it may be, can never do justice to the beauty of the romantic and far-famed Lakes of Killarnev Date Due f> BOSTON COLLEGE 3 9031 01272847 3 c 3997 AUTHOR TITLE Lri-Cfa CrAlV ir F r Ne.v.^ "^-u ::^«^. /T^i- DATE DUE BORROWER'S NAME BOSTON COLLEGE LIBRARY UNIVERSITY HEIGHTS CHESTNUT HILL, MASS. Books may be kept for two weeks and may be renewed for the same period, unless reserved. Two cents a day is charged for each book kept overtime. If you cannot find what you want, ask the Librarian who will be glad to help you. The borrower is responsible for books drawn on his card and for all fines accruing on the same.