HISTORY OF THE TOWN OF BELFAST, o eg a farmer t |Jrc$eut #>tatc ; OF THE f - J?J±^±5±i Of l^llASl 1 , and A JJESOtUTIOX OF SOME KEMAKK&B&E Jl^TI^ITTIES IX ITS XEIGHBOt'Rfi#eCl>. Wm \>4 BOSTON COLLEGK IJBJMBT CHESTNUT HIU, MASS . HISTORY Of THE TOWN OF BELFAST. Situation, THE Town of Belfast is situated in latitude 54* 3& north, and in longitude 5° 54' west, from Green- wich. It stands at the southern extremity of Car- rickfergus bay, and at the mouth of the river Lagan, being extremely low in situation, but well adapted for all the purposes of trade. A chain of mountains, less than two miles distant towards the north and west, bestows uncommon grandeur and beauty on the general appearance of this town. Belfast, though at present so conspicuous for commercial and political importance, is generally supposed to be of very modern origin. This is in a ot very mo. r r J dern origin, great measure correct, for there is not undoubtedly a town in the kingdom which has advanced to emi- nence with equal rapidity, or which has been so lit- 1995 4 tie distinguished in the ancient history of Ireland, and so much in the modern. The notices which are to be found in the works of the early writers on Irish affairs relative to Belfast are brief and scanty, while the state and occurrences of places, now com- paratively inconsiderable, are often accurately and precisely detailed. Derivation of Notwithstanding these circumstances, there is good reason to believe that a village of some kind has existed here from a very remote period. The Lagan, forming for many miles the boundary be- tween the counties of Down and Antrim, was ford- able at this place, which ford, it is probable, formed, at least for a considerable distance, the principal means of communication between the inhabitants of the opposite sides of the river, and was in general use for this purpose before the erection of the long bridge in 1682. The utmost obscurity and perplexity, however, attend the derivation of the name. In " A Map of Ireland previous to the thirteenth century," affixed to Seward's Hibernian Gazetteer, it is marked un- der the name of Bealafarsad, which means, accord- ing to some, hurdleford town, while others have translated it, the mouth of the pool. Either of these explanations might receive some corroboration from local facts, but as it is matter of complete hypothesis, there seems to be ample room for farther speculation. It is much less difficult to form reasonable conjec- tures on the miserable condition of the place, at the earlier periods of its history, consisting, it is pro- bable, only of the rude dwellings of the ferrymen, or those concerned in the accommodation of the few travellers who might have occasion to visit a wild and unfrequented country. It is possible that such may have been the state of Belfast for many years after the English invasion, or that important event may have even been prior to the first settlement of inhabitants at this spot. A few years after the arrival of the English, Ulster was granted to John De Courcey, on condi- tion of conquering it. With this intention he over- ran, in 1177, a considerable part of the province, erecting many castles to secure his precarious ac- quisitions . There is no account that the castle of ^eB^iSh at Belfast was among the number, but it is certain that riod. as the power of the English extended, this place, from the excellence of its situation, between the co- lony at Carrickfergus and their possessions in the Ards, would soon attract the attention of a resolute enemy, whose inducements to war were urgent, and whose principal safety lay in the possession of forti- fications to overpower less experienced but more nu- merous opponents. The first notice accordingly which is taken of this town, in Irish history, is a 6 conclusive proof of its having been an English set- tlement, not, probably, established by De Courcey, but by some of the subsequent adventurers. The Irish, irritated by the oppressions of their invaders, and by the contrast between their own situation and that of the Scots, who had lately regained their freedom, offered the most alluring proposals to Edward Bruce, for his assistance in the expulsion of the English. The brother of the Scottish mo- narch accepted the invitation with alacrity, and landed, with a considerable force, at Lame, in the year 1315. Atf, first, nothing was able to resist his progress, and Belfast is mentioned, by Spenser, as among the " good towns and strong holds" which he destroyed.* Had this place been then in possession of the Irish, it would undoubtedly have escaped the devastation of the Scottish army. Though the enterprise of Bruce proved finally abor- tive, its consequences were permanent and disastrous. The English power was almost destroyed in Ulster. The Irish clans continued their victorious depreda- tions, and extirpated the colonists, or so far weak- ened their strength, as to possess, for nearly two centuries, the principal sway in this province. Bel- fast, thus wasted, returned to its original insignifi- cance, though the castle, if not originally built, was repaired at this juncture by the Irish chiefs. Many curious and important events doubtless took place * Spencer's View of the State of Ireland, p. 27. here during these two centuries. The dissensions between the houses of York and Lancaster, and the extension of war or conquest in other places, prevent- ed for so long a time any decisive measures on the part of the English to recover their former posses- sions. Those of that country who remained, either adopted the language and customs of the natives, or ensured their safety by that mark of inferiority and vassalage, the payment of Black Rent. But in the reign of Henry the Seventh, and un- der the administration of Gerald, Earl of Kildare, the English power becoming again predominant, a re-conquest of the northern stations possessed by the Irish was attempted on several occasions. This was one of the places which required the pre- sence of the lord deputy. In two incursions, there- fore, which the Earl of Kildare made into Ulster. Twice de - * ' stroyed by he twice destroyed, without much opposition, the Kiwfre. uty castle of Belfast.* Nine years intervened between these expeditions, the first having been in 1503, and the second in 1512. It was repaired by the Irish chiefs in the interval ; but after its second de- molition, it remained for a number of years in a ruin- ous and neglected state. Neither party, it is pro- bable, was sufficiently strong to take possession of so important a post. The brief relations of the seizure or destruction of the castle, are the only ma- * Cox's History of Ireland, p. 202. 8 . terials from which we can infer the history of the town at this early period ; and after the abandon- ment of the fortress in 1512, it is probable that the few rude habitations which surrounded it, experien- ced a similar fate. In the forty years which succeed- ed the last expedition of the Earl of Kildare^ this place, from its open and exposed situation, must have been very defenceless $ and particularly exposed to the inroads of the contending parties. There is reason to think from the following curious notice, that these conjectures are well founded, and that the calami- tous effects of this predatory warfare were experien- ced here in an extraordinary degree. " In 1545, the Earl of Ormond marched with his soldiers from Carrickfergus to Belfast, which is an arm of the sea, about a quarter of a mile broad, or little less, and then waded over on foot."* No mention is here made of a town or castle, which might serve for security or refuge, and the sentence, so apparently absurd, seems even to imply their non-existence. Repaired by Belfast, however, was not entirely forgotten j lord deputy ' " ° crofu. ant | j n CO nsequence of the alarming progress of O'Nial in the north, the lord deputy, Sir James Crofts, made an expedition into Ulster, in the year 1552, when he repaired and garrisoned this castle. The army of Baron Dungannon, which he expected would join him, was attacked and routed by the • Holinshed's Chronicle. 9 trish ; but the garrison which had been left here pro- bably remained secure. The same year, however, the castle of Belfast, among other possessions, was Hif")^ granted to Hugh Mac Neil Oge, who swore alle- giance to the English.* This was a mode of con- ciliation frequently adopted, and though O'Neil might have before held some of hia new acquisitions by the uncertain tenure of the sword, he perhaps acted with prudence in submitting to the increasing power of the English. This chieftain did not long remain unmolested in possession of his new dignity. He was slain in 1555, in one of the numerous incur- sions of the Scots into this province, and his terri- tories were ceded by the lord deputy and council to other branches of the sept of O'Neil. The castle of Belfast, however, was governed, after the dis- RmdBfehJ? comfiture of its last possessor, by Randolphus Lane, an Englishman, who appears to have pos- sessed only a nominal title, the northern Irish being again so powerful and so turbulent, as to render such a place as Belfast of little real advantage. In the thirteenth year of the reign of Queen Elizabeth, Sj™ 1 ^?,, this castle, with valuable tracts of land, was grant- ed to Sir Thomas Smith, and Thomas Smith his son, under several very advantageous stipulations, hereafter to be narrated. Owing, however, to the uncertainty which attended possessions in land, and • Cox's Ireland, p. 293. ii Noticed by Sir John Perrot. 10 »ome other mischances, it afterwards appeared that Sir Thomas Smith did not derive much bene- fit from these grants. During* the time that he retained this castle, a skirmish took place here (1575) between the English and the Irish, of which Sir Henry Sidney, the lord deputy, who was con- cerned in it, makes the following" relation to the council: — "In the Confynes of this Countrie (as I take it) I was offered Skirmishe by Mac Neill Brian Ertaugh, at my Passage over the Water at Belfast ; which I cawsed to be answered, and pass- ed over without Losse of Man or Horsse, yet by Reason of the Tydes extraordinarie Retorne, owre Horsies swamme, and the Footemen in the Passage waded nye depe." The excellent and commodious situation of this town, therefore, more than its size, must have in- duced Sir John Perrot, in 1582, when offering his advice for the suppression of the perpetual rebellions which had retarded the improvement of Ireland, and for its future well -government, to single out Belfast as the best and most convenient place in Ulster for the establishment of shipwrights. He was likewise influenced in this choice by the extensive forests which grew in the neighbourhood, a circumstance which is sufficiently proved by an order of lord deputy Grey, in 1581, to permit the mayor and in- habitants of Carrickfergus to convey timber from 11 ** the woods of Belfast," for the purpose of finishing their church ; and it is remarkable that this order is addressed to the " Lord of the Woods," which was probably an office of considerable importance. The representations or the actions of Sir John Perrot, for promoting the prosperity of the kingdom, at this period, were equally ineffectual, as, in 1596, Belfast was without the English pale. The celebrated Earl of Tyrone was the principal cause of this great de- fection ; and even in 1601, when he was opposed by the intrepid and vigilant Mountjoy, Carrickfergus was the only place, in this neighbourhood, which ac- knowledged the authority of the English. It is cu- rious to reflect, that a town, which is at present the most important in Ulster, should have been, only two centuries ago, in undisturbed possession of the Irish clans, and that no record or document should exist, to inform us of its size and population at that period, both of which must have, conse- quently, been extremely inconsiderable. The flight of the Earls in 1607; led to the subse- quent division and settlement of the kingdom by James I. which were the most efficient steps that had hitherto been taken to restore this country to its true value and importance. In this reign, Sir Thomas Smith was required to fulfil the agreement by which he held the castle of Belfast, but, not making his appearance, his possessions were forfeit- 12 ed to the crown. The castle, town, and manor of Belfast, with large estates, were thereupon granted Axhiche°te£ by King James, in 1612, to Sir Arthur Chichester, then lord deputy, with the title of Baron Chiches- ter of Belfast. It is from that time we may date the rise and progress of this place. The town soon becomes more distinguished than the castle, though as yet it had acquired no consequence in the general affairs of the country. It is omitted by Holinshed, in his " Description of Ireland," while places which are now scarcely known, are mention- ed as among the chief towns in the kingdom. Bel- fast is marked, indeed, as an unimportant village, in Speed's maps, in 1610, but no further notice is taken of it by that author. The town In the year 1613, however, this town was con- raised info a » ' ' corporation. s tituted by charter from James I. a corporation, to consist of a sovereign, twelve burgesses, and commonalty. A lord and constable of the castle were also added, the former station to be filled by the Lord Chichester and his heirs. Both these officers were likewise to be burgesses, with privileges similar and equal to the other twelve. The sovereign was empoAvered to hold a court of record, for the recovery of sums not exceeding twenty pounds, and, with the assistance of the burgesses, to make different salutary laws and regulations for the prosperity of the town. The 13 commonalty only, as authorized by the sovereign 4 l ' s t r L ac '°f J J ' J o the charter. and burgesses, were allowed to dispose of mer- chandise, either within the town or three miles round it in every direction. It was also permitted by the charter, that a guild of merchants might be em- bodied, and that the freemen had liberty to erect one wharf, without the interference of the corpora- tion of Carrickfergus. The preamble to this char- ter expressly states, that the privileges which it sets forth were granted, as well on account of the hum- ble petition of the inhabitants of Belfast, as for the better progress in the plantation of the northern parts of the kingdom, then almost entirely depopu- lated. One of the most important clauses which it contains was the power thereby vested in the sove- reign and burgesses, of sending two representatives to parliament. In pursuance of such authority, Sir John Blennerhasset, Second Baron of the Exchequer, and George Trevillian, Esq. where chosen the same year to serve in parliament for this town. They were, however, shortly after obliged, with the re- presentatives of several other places of little note, to resign their seats, in consequence of the remonstrances of the Roman Catholics, who imagined that their in- terests might be endangered if so many royal bo- roughs were suffered to be created.* » See the order to this effect, Desiderata Curiosa Ilibernica, v. I, p. 323, 14 Though this organization of the inhabitants of Belfast into a corporate body must have stimulated I^ofchVro- their exertions and accelerated their improvement, testants intro- , duced. the introduction, about the same time, of English and Scotch Protestants, into the north of Ireland, had a more immediate influence. Presbyterianism was first introduced into this kingdom in 1611, the principal part of those who were established in the counties of Down and Antrim being Scottish settlers. Though Belfast probably participated at an early period in some of the advantages attendant on such changes, it is certain that the Presbyterians, owing to the opposition which the episcopal party afterwards raised against them, acquired influence more slowly in towns than in the more open parts of the country. Early in the seventeenth century, however, Belfast was surrounded by Presbyterian settlements ; and however useful such establishments were, in a poli- tical point of view, they afterwards occasioned the most serious dissensions. The civil history of this town, from its erection into a borough until the year 1641, is totally obscured by ecclesiastical transac- tions, so that a brief account of them will form a good and necessary prelude to the more important affairs of Belfast, in the latter end of the memorable reign of King Charles the First. Their charac The same independent and inflexible spirit in the ter and sub- , MMjuem beh*. demand of their religious rights, which characterized 15 the Scots in the reign of the unfortunate Charles, Tlour ln J* fl - z> ' giouj matters, also distinguished the Presbyterians of the north of Ireland, and the ministers of this persuasion suffered, for "conscience sake," many unjust and grievous per- secutions. On their refusal to subscribe the canons, or to conform with the usages and principles of the established church, many of them were deposed and fled the kingdom. Those who remained, not only ecclesiastics, but laymen, continued to resist with bold intrepidity the arbitrary encroachments of the king and the bishops. Bat when, on account of an opposition which was no longer tolerable, the covenant was framed and promulgated in Scotland, the principles of that celebrated bond of union soon reached this part of Ireland, and were adopted with the utmost ardour. The violence of persecution, however, had not yet abated, and many of the " notorious non -conformists," as the Presbyterians were then styled, several of them belonging to Bel- fast, abandoned their property and dwellings for fear of the High Commission, which called upon them to renounce a covenant that was consonant with every principle of their faith and practice.* As a consequence of this, it is scarcely necessary to add, that the majority of the inhabitants of Belfast espoused the sentiments of the popular party in England and Scotland, and, during the continuance of the civil wars, they followed with remarkable uni- " Strafford's L«Uer», t. 2, p. 344. 16 formity the different religious maxims, as well as the several political variations of their brethren in Dccbratioiiof the latter kingdom. The most noted and celebrat- the Belfast ° agatnsuhe e d instance of this was after the execution of the regicides. ... king in 1649, when the members ot the presbytery of Belfast were among' the first to declare their abhorrence of that measure. They published a de- claration to this effect, which was answered by the illustrious Milton, at that time a leader of the Eng- lish sectarians, whose principles were much dissimi- lar from those of the enthusiastic covenanters. The declaration of the presbytery is bitter and in- tolerant. They call themselves " Watchmen in Sion," and after protesting with the utmost ve- hemence against the execution of the king, they exhort all persons to beware of the religious opi- nions of the English parliamentarians, lest they be- lieve lies and experience an eternal condemnation. The language of the immortal poet is highly argu- mentative, but even more scurrilous than that of his antagonists. He calls the covenanters " false pro- phets," " egregious liars and impostors," "un- hallowed priestlings," who mean to stir up the peo- ple to rebellion from their " unchristian synagogue at Belfast, in a barbarous nook of Ireland ;" he denominates their allegations " impudent false- hoods," charges them, as " blockish presbyters of Clandeboy," with ignorance of history, sacred and profane, and, in a spirit of derision, taking occasion Milton's an- swer. 17 frequently to advert to the small and undistinguish- ed place from which so violent a manifest had is- sued, infers from their actions that they are a gene- ration of " highland thieves and redshanks." The Belfast Presbyterians, however, not to be daunted by such invectives, immediately published a de- fence cf their former declaration. Persecutions on this account were renewed, but they still adhered, during the entire Protectorate, to the principles of the original covenant, entirely disclaiming the authority of the parliament and sectaries in Eng- land. However necessary it may be to understand the foregoing circumstances, it must be considered more interesting to trace the improvements of Bel- fast, and to detail the share which it took in the civil history of Ireland. In the year 1637, the Earl of Strafford purchased from the corporation of Carrick- fergus, their privilege of receiving one third of the duties payable on goods imported into that town, and the other extensive monopolies which it enjoyed. This proved a most fortunate circum- First ri»e of Belfast as a stance for Belfast, as great part of the trade of Car- c ° a m ™ ercial rickfergus was quickly transferred to this place, and the consequences of such an event were soon perceivable in its increasing prosperity. But all Traderetard. ed for a time improvements were for a time unhappily suspend- b y rebeliion - c 18 ed by the destructive wars in 1641, and the follow- ing years. Belfast did not escape the ruinous effects of these tumults and rebellions, though it also served as a place of security to the Protestants of the neighbouring- country. Many of the inha- bitants of this town, however, fled to Carrickfergus on the news of the insurrection, but the insurgents under Sir Conn Magennis being defeated in their at- tempts on Lisburn, Belfast was saved from de- struction, at which the rebels expressed the most unfeigned disappointment. On the 28th Novem- ber, however, Lisburn was a second time attacked by the Irish, under Sir Phelim O'Neil, but, after doing considerable mischief, they were again re- pulsed, and principally deterred from any farther hostilities by a reinforcement which arrived the same night from Belfast. The safety of Lisburn, Means by at least in the first instance, arose from the intrepi- which Bdfast * r fronuhe dity of Captain Lawson, a merchant of Derry, who was travelling when the insurrection commenced. Arriving at Belfast in the latter end of October, 1641, he found the inhabitants flying in the utmost consternation. His endeavours to prevail on them to remain and furnish him with arms were ineffec- tual, so that he was obliged to rest satisfied with seven muskets, which he took from " Master Lesquire's house," and eight halberds, which he found ready to be sent to Carrickfergus. He pro- cured also a drum, and beating it through the street, 19 persuaded about twenty of the townsmen to accom- pany him to Lisburn, that town also being- desert- ed by its inhabitants. In their way thither, they were joined by some other small companies, and on their arrival, in consequence of the weakness of their force, they adopted the stratagem of showing- six or seven matches for every piece of cannon, be- sides placing" many lights in the market-house and other conspicuous parts of the town, by which the rebels were entirely deceived.* The preservation of Belfast, when the principal part of the province was in possession of the Irish, is certainly to be at- tributed to the failure of their assaults on Lis- burn, which is farther confirmed by a letter from Donell O'Cane to Donothy O'Cane, in which the former, in reference to Captain Lawson's success- ful resistance, says, " and was the first in those parts that opposed our cousin, Sir Con Mac Ginis, of entering Lisnegarvy (Lisburn), when the Lord Conoway, his troop of horse, and all the town's people left it, and the country about, and but for him we had had Balfast, and most of those parts in possession." However grateful, therefore, the inha- bitants of this town might feel for the bold defence of Lisburn, the malignant fever, which committed such ravages in the north of Ireland at this period, did not leave them much room for rejoicing at their * See " A True Relation of Several Acts, Passages, &c. done by Captain Robert Lawson, one of the Sheriffs of the City and County of Londonderry, hi the great and general Rebellion," &c. 20 safety, having destroyed in the course of four months nearly five thousand persons in Belfast and Malone. Mauurwfor Sir Arthur Tyringham and Colonel Chichester its farther •ecurity. being appointed by the lords justices to the com- mand of the forces in the county of Antrim, imme- diately stationed a garrison and governor in this town. Early in the year 1642, active measures were taken for its further security. The sovereign was ordered to bring in a list of the men who were to form the train -band, and to have them enrolled as soldiers. It was agreed, at the same time, that, for completing the rampart, all such as had not made up their former rates should forthwith advance the stipulated sums, or be distrained for payment. For the farther encouragement in that matter, Lord Chichester consented to make the draw-bridge and palisadoes, and the inhabitants to give a thousand days work of a man, the soldiers also assisting in so necessary a defence. Assessors were appointed to levy labour, as well as money, within the town and liberties, the inhabitants being obliged to contribute certain regular sums to defray the ex- penses of fire and candles for the military.* These preparations, however, might have been insufficient for the security of this town, if the treaty between the Scottish parliament and the English house of * Records of Belfast Corporation. 21 commons had not, about the same time, been con- cluded. The Scots, who had acquired a power- ful independence, refused, when ordered by Charles, to exert their strength in quelling- the Irish insur- rection ; but having entered into that alliance, which seemed more agreeable to their interest and religion, stipulated with the parliament to send over ten thousand men for the reduction of the Ulster rebels. In the month of April, 1642, part of these troops arrived at Carrickfergus, under the command of Ge- Arrival of the Scots. neral Robert Monroe. A considerable detachment soon after established themselves in Malone, near Belfast, whtre they were joined by a strong force under Lord Conway and Colonel Chichester. The two parties at first amicably united their forces against the common enemy ; but the Scots, more solicitous for personal aggrandizement than for the suppression of the rebellion, were dilatory and in- decisive in their proceedings, restraining the exer- tions of the English, who were absolutely forbidden to proceed in their military operations without the consent of the Earl of Leven or General Monroe, both of whom neglected several fair opportunities of putting an end to the rebellion. But the open rupture which took place, the same year, between Charles and his parliament, occasioned a farther separation of interests, extremely prejudicial to the cause in which they were both embarked ; and the two English factions, who had now engaged in 22 Breaches be- tween the English, and Scots. civil war at home, were equally diligent in seeking partizans in this part of Ireland. Great numbers of the people here united with Monroe and the par- liament ; while Lord Conway, the Viscount Clane- boye, Colonel Chichester, Sir James Montgomery, Sir John Clotworthy and others, influenced by the Earl of Ormond, adhered to the king, and continued to harass the rebels with their forces. Colonel Chi. i hester ap- pointed go- vernor, In the following year (1643) Colonel Chichester was appointed, by Charles, governor of Belfast ; and, at the same time, a royal grant of one thou- sand pounds was made for the better fortifying of the town. Notwithstanding these precautions, the avowed junction of the English parliament with so powerful an ally as Scotland, caused a great dis- parity between the real strength of the royalists and their enemies. After the final settlement of the compact between the Scottish covenanters and the parliament, an order was issued by the latter, that all who lived under its authority should receive the covenant, promising arrears of pay to the Ulster forces in case of acquiescence ; while a counter- proclamation was sent by the lord lieutenant to the British colonels, encouraging them to disobey a command which must seem so little suited to their inclination and their duty. This was of little ser- vice, for though the leading men continued firm in their attachment to the king, they were overawed jccts the cove. 23 by the superior power of the Scots, who, with the great body of the country people, had received the covenant with unbounded fervour and exultation.* Colonel Chichester, and the soldiers garrisoned in wtwwithtfte garrison re- Belfast, were among the number of those who re- mained faithful to the royal interest. Yet so gene- ral was the disaffection, that he was reduced, with the three regiments under his command, to the greatest extremities, and solicited the assistance of the lord lieutenant, from whom he received three hundred pounds, for the protection of the town and garrison of Belfast against the covenanters, who, it was ap- prehended, would soon commence hostilities in sup- port of their principles and opinions. f In this exi- gency, every requisite measure, which the situation of the garrison would admit was taken for the secu- rity of Belfast, and though defended by cannon, it must have appeared obvious that a town surround- ed only with an earthen fortification, and protected by a small, dispirited force, could offer but una- vailing resistance to a more numerous army, provided with every necessary equipment and animated by religious zeal. Belfast, however, was taken on this occasion by Thcfoxmur. prised and treachery and stratagem, and not by force. Near grots" bythe the beginning of the year 1644, General Monroe was invested by the parliament with the command • Carte's Ormond, ▼. 1, p. 490. f lb. p. 495. 24 of all the forces in Ulster, English as well as Scotch, and those who had not yet received the covenant were required to submit to his authority. The English officers, however, were all disinclined from paying obedience to this order, and resolved to meet at this town for the purpose of deliberating on the steps which should be taken in consequence. Besides Colonel Chichester, the governor, there assembled at Belfast on the evening of the 13th May, Sir James Montgomery, the Lords Montgomery and Blaney, Sir Robert Stewart, Colonel Hill, Major Rawdon, Sir Joseph Jones and Major Gore, who deferred their conference till the following morning. They had not long separated, however, when a sol- dier belonging to the garrison, who had that day been at Carrickfergus, where Monroe was then stationed, brought intelligence to Colonel Chi- chester that the Scottish General had directed his troops in that place to be in readiness to march to Belfast at two o'clock on the ensuing morn- ing. Upon this the town was put into a better state of defence, and some horse sent out to learn the position and motions of the covenanters. So little, however, were these scouts to be relied on, that they returned at six o'clock in the morn- ing with advice that the country was clear and no enemies to be seen. Colonel Chichester sup- posing, on this information, that the alarm was groundless, commanded the ordinary watch to re- 25 sume its duty. An hour, however, had scarcely elapsed when Monroe was discovered within half a mile of the town, advancing with great rapidity to- wards the north gate, which was opened to him on his approach by the soldiers of the guard, before any attempt could be made by those who were well affected to obstruct his progress. He marched his troops quietly through the town till they reached the mill gate, leading to Lisburn, when he ordered his men, in different divisions, to take possession of the cannon, bulwarks, and guards. All the of- ficers who had collected here for the purpose al- ready mentioned, immediately repaired to Monroe, that they might learn his reason for thus surpris - in g the town. The General replied that as Colonel Chichester had issued a proclamation against the covenant, in which those who had received it were stigmatized as traitors, that as he had also on all occasions discouraged the inhabitants of Belfast and others from entering into that engagement, and had even prohibited some Scottish soldiers from being quartered in this town, he conceived it ne- cessary for his safety to have a garrison here of his own appointment. These were but specious ex- cuses ; though without obtaining any further satis - faction, Colonel Chichester's men were ordered to leave the town. The Marquis of Ormond, in a letter to the Secretary of the Council of Kilkenny, 26 states the force with which Monroe e fleeted his pur- pose to have consisted of two thousand men, and ascribes the sudden loss of the town to the wants of the common soldiers who were garrisoned in the place. A serious war might thus have broken out be-^ {ween the Ulster forces, as Colonel Chichester and Theophilus Jones, governor of Lisburn, exasperated perhaps at the facility with which Monroe had ac- complished his enterprise, and at his attempts to overturn their authority, informed Gen. O'Neil of the surrender of Belfast, desiring him at the same time (by virtue of the cessation it is pre- sumed) to supply them with some ammunition, which he willingly granted.* Monroe being disap- pointed in his expectation of seizing Lisburn, re- turned to Belfast. His undertaking was approved coioneiHume of by the parliament, who appointed Colonel Hume appointed governor. governor of this town and castle, with a stationary garrison under his command of about four hundred men. For the maintenance of this body the inha- bitants were assessed every ten days, each house- holder being obliged to contribute, as a subsidy, either a shilling or fourteen pounds of meal. These levies, however, were frequently irregular ; some- times more than the usual contract was demanded, and • Desiderata Curiosa Hibeinica, v. 2, p. '198. 27 General Maxwell's troops also received several of the assessments which were laid on the town. The inhabitants found these imposts so heavy that they petitioned Lord Chichester, in 1645, that he would be pleased to allow, as he had done before, some portion of the rents of the town to support the mili- tary.* The treaty of cessation, though at this time in force, was but partial in its influence, being entirely disregarded by the parliament, the most powerful of the three factions which disfigured these kingdoms with violent and desolating commotions. The con- federate Irish were indignant at the temerity of Monroe in seizing Belfast, and desired the Marquis of Ormond to proclaim the Scots rebels. This, however, might have proved a dangerous procedure ; and, as a less hazardous step, the lord lieutenant, by the advice and concurrence of the privy council, de- spatched letters to the Scottish General, ordering him to surrender the arms, ammunition, and ord- nance which were contained in this town, and to withdraw from it with his troops. Monroe, how- ever, paid no attention to this command. + But the two parties in the north, seeing the little progress which was made in the suppression of the re- bellion, seemed mutually desirous of a reconciliation, Son t^ n * t Corporation Records. •)• Carte's Ormond, v. 5, p. 512. 28 tweentbe and of acting with concert against the Irish, who English and ° s ' still continued to extend their power whether peace or war should he the issue of their negociations . In Ulster, even the Irish themselves were averse from the cessation, and the English in this province con- sidered it perfectly consistent with justice and their allegiance, to maintain a contest with men who re- mained open enemies, but whose brethern were at the same time treating with the king for a final pa- cification. An agreement was therefore made be- tween the English and Scots, the latter consent- ing that their allies should be constrained to take no oath contrary to the tenor of the Irish laws, till the authority of parliament should terminate their con- tentions.* Their joint forces made some incursions against the enemy, but in the following year (1645,) the Ulster Scots showed manifest symptoms of discon- tent, arising both from the neglect of the parlia- ment, and the obnoxious principles of Independency, which had begun to be openly declared by many members of that celebrated assembly. They still however continued to keep possession of this town, which, they affirmed, was necessary for the security of their troops as long as they continued in Ulster, and though timely supplies from the parliament al- layed their murmurs on one account, the article of The Soots are discontented. * Carto's Ormond, v. 5, p. 286. 20 religion, a more insupportable grievance, remained to confirm and widen their enmity. Their dissatis- faction assumed a more unequivocal appearance when commissioners arrived at Belfast, with a view of bringing both the Scots and royalists under the control of the English parliament. As a prelimi- nary step, Monroe was ordered to surrender this town, but he refused, on pretence of waiting for di- rections from the state of Scotland.* The over- tures of the commissioners were received by Monroe and his adherents with the utmost distrust ; and the former, observing the Scots much less profuse in their demonstrations of attachment to the parlia- ment, gave directions that some troops should be sent over to enforce their demands. In November 1646, pursuant to this order, a con- siderable body aivived at Dublin, and on the mis- carriage of their negotiation with the Marquis of Ormond proceeded to Ulster, where their reception was not more cordial. They were debarred admis- sion either into this town or Carrickfergus, Mon- roe and the Scots thus plainly evincing a disposi- tion to disconcert the measures of the parliament. f Beua!t°turn against the So great a revolution indeed had taken place in P arliament - their sentiments, that the lord lieutenant, when besieged about the same time in Dublin, solicited, and would have obtained the assistance of the Scots, • Carte, v. 1, p. 538. f Ibid, v. 2, p. 59. 30 had they not been so much weakened by the des- tructive battle of Benburb. During the year 1647, the motives for disunion daily became more irreconcilable and more numerous, but when Eng- land was invaded by the Scots in 1618, in support of royalty, the Ulster forces entered into the same league, and offered the lord lieutenant their assist- ance, not only against the Irish rebels, but against the independents of this and the neighbouring king- dom. Their hostility being thus no longer conceal- ed, the celebrated Monk, to whom the parliament had committed the care of Ulster, marched with great celerity to Carrickfergus, which he surprised, and having seized Monroe, sent him prisoner to England. A strong detachment then appeared be- fore Belfast, which, offering little or no resistance, was reduced a second time to the subjection of the parliament.* Colonel Maxwell was then appoint- ed governor, f * Leland's Ireland, v. 3, p. 327. f The following lines are in the Records of the Corporation, en- titled " Verses presented to General Monck," but no farther explana- tion is given as to the occasion, date, or manner of their presentation. They contain a keen and no very covert attack on the Rump Parlia- ment, and certainly do infinite honour to the poet laureat of the town for smoothness of versification and originality of invention :— Advants George Monck and Monck St. George shall be England's Restorer to its Liberty Scotland's Protector, Ireland's President Reducing all to affree Parliament And if thou dost intend the other thing Goe on and all shall crye God save ye King, R R doth rebellion represent V By V nought else but villainy is meant 3VI M murther signifies all men doe know P P perjuryes in fashion grow Thus R and V with M and P Conjoyn'd make up our uiiscrle. 31 Such measures, however, were far from subduing the animosity of the royalists and the rigid cove- nanters, both of whom were equally incensed at the violent death of the king, a catastrophe which took place a few months after the irruption of Colonel Monk into this province. The whole north rose in arms against the English republicans, and clamoured loudly for the renewal of the covenant, one of the principal articles of which the decapitation of the king had violated and broken. Colonel Monk and Sir Charles Coote, the parliamentary commanders in Ulster, absolutely refused to receive it, though the principal part of their officers and soldiers were of contrary sentiments. The parliamentarians, upon this account, were dispossessed of almost every place of strength in this province as quickly as they had acquired them,* and the appearance of affairs here at this crisis was extremely favourable to the new king, who deputed Sir George Monroe, the brother of him who had lately made so distinguished a figure on the same ground, to the command of those who favoured his government in Ulster. f This town Retaken & the royalists. also fell into the hands of the royalists in 1649. After burning Lisburn and Antrim, Sir George Monroe surrounded Belfast. Colonel Maxwell, the parliamentary governor, knowing the weakness of the place, sent with all speed to request the imme- diate assistance of Lord Montgomery, not aware * Carte, v. 2, p, 76. Leland, v. 5, p. 33S. f Catte, p. G9, 32 that he also had embraced the cause of the king, Montgomery adopted an artifice which probably prevented the destruction of the town. lie obeyed the command of the governor, but when his troops had gained admittance, and were disposed in the most proper situations for attack or defence, he showed his commission of General Governor in Ulster from King Charles, and commanded Colonel Max- well and the garrison to submit. The parliamen- tarians perceiving their inability to defend the town against enemies within and without, laid down their arms.* Though the people of the north of Ireland were little disposed to be on friendly terms with the par- liamentarians on account of their rejection of the covenant, yet neither were they much inclined, it would seem, to acknowledge the authority of a king, whose principles might lead him to prefer a similar opposition. Roused by the exhortations of their spiritual teachers, they denied his power till he should conform with the doctrines of their inestimable covenant, and even the soldiers who had so lately opposed the republicans, relapsed into the same fickleness and irresolution. They im- agined that Lord Montgomery and his party intend- ed to use their endeavours for restoring the king * This account is taken from a rare controversial tract, entitled " Sample of Jet Black Prelatic Calumny," p, 192. 33 without any particular reservation for the security •end pre-eminence of the covenant. During the desertions and dissensions which took place in con- sequence of this, the parliamentary leaders were allowed to sustain their authority till reinforcements should arrive from England. This event soon took place. The same year (1649), Oliver Cromwell landed in Ireland, and after the capture of Droghe- da, sent Colonel Venables to reduce Belfast and the other towns which continued in opposition to the parliament. This Was now the fourth time in the space of six ,^ t g e f" X ta - years that Belfast had been besieged, and this was l ' a the only occasion on which it offered any material resistance. Colonel Venables sat four days be- fore the town, which then capitulated upon ar- ticles.* There is a tradional account that the lit- tle mill, in Mill Street, or rather a former building in the same situation, was used by the parliamen- tarians as an offensive station, and that an engage- ment took place between the garrison and their as- sailants at Buller's Field, the former name of the ground on which the streets in the northern end of the town are built, particularly York Street and those immediately adjoining it. Sir George Mon- roe, a short time after this occurrence, attacked a * Carte, v. 2, p. 9Q. £ 34 party of parliamentary horse proceeding from Bel- fast to Antrim, when was killed, among others, the celebrated Owen O'Connolly, the first discoverer of the Irish rebellion. The power of the royalists however was entirely broken, and the country was soon subjected to the dominion of the English Par- liament. During the Common wealth the opposition of many in this place to the principles and measures of the ruling authorities, remained firm and unabated, though at the Restoration, when the general pardon of King Charles was published here, several persons belonging to the town publicly pleaded the benefit of it. After this period no events properly historical appear to have occurred in Belfast for a considerable Actions of the number of vears. This town, however, seems to inhabitants on " ' ofjamesiT.' have acquired early notice and consequence in the important wars which ensued on the accession of King James II. to the throne. When the principles and maxims of that monarch came to be apparent, this corporation, in common 'with many others, be- gan to entertain the most serious apprehensions of some infringement on those privileges which their charter had procured, and had hitherto continued to protect. The sovereign and burgesses, however, not being disposed to resign their liberties without 35 a struggle, agreed unanimously to defend their charter by all legal means in whatever court it might be impeached. This determination was ob- served, law agents having been employed by the corporation in 1687 to substantiate their just and undoubted rigbts. In the year 1688, however, a new charter was issued by King James, increas- ing the number of burgesses to thirty-five, nine- teen of whom were Roman Catholics, and the re- mainder Protestants, who never interfered in the business of the town by virtue of their appointment. * The privileges of the corporation were also by the new charter so much farther abridged, as to vest in the chief governor and privy counc il the power of re- moving at pleasure a sovereign, burgess, or any other officer. About the same time the number of Roman Catholics, principally military, had begun to increase in the town. They made application to the lord lieutenant that he would be pleased to order the sovereign and burgesses to permit the celebra- tion of mass in the school house or town house, as an old ruinous building hitherto used was not fit for so holy a purpose. The lord lieutenant, how- ever, was informed by the sovereign, that their de- sire could not be complied with, as the one was the property and free gift of Lord Donegall, and the other the only place reserved for the affairs of the * Kirkpatrick's Historical Essay, p. 424. A new cliar. ter issued by the crown. 36 town, the surrender of which might materially affect the general interests of the corporation . The danger which seemed to menace the establish- ed laws and religion was thought to be daily aug- menting, and the rumour which arose about the lat- ter end of the year 1688, and which was sedulously propagated, of an intended massacre by the Irish Catholics, had the effect of cementing and extend- ing a union among the Protestants for their mutual defence. It farther induced them in January 1689, Project to dis- to enter into a combination for disarming the Ca- tuouc soldiers, tholic regiments stationed in Belfast and some other and its failure. ™ places, and for taking possession of C arrickfergus . In consequence, however, of the non -performance of the scheme in this town, the whole project produced none of those results which were anti- cipated, and which its practicability seemed to pro- mise. When those who had undertaken it were met here for the purpose, Sir Wm. Franklin, Mr. Upton, and Mr. Hamilton, repenting of their engagement, refused to advance farther in so perilous an adven- ture, and by their advice the citizens of the town were also dissuaded from embarking in the business, though some British officers here urged, in the most forcible manner, the certain success and advantages of the intended enterprise. When the abandonment of the plan was finally decided on, Mr. Hamilton was sent to apprise Sir Arthur Raw- 37 don of the circumstance, whom he met within a few miles of the town, advancing with five hundred men to ensure a prosperous termination of the contri- vance, and who, upon the unexpected information which he received, expressed the most marked dis- approbation and regret.* In Lisburn the plot suc- ceeded ; but the inhabitants of that town, informed of its failure here, and fearing to be alone implicated in such an affair, returned the arms. According to another account, the enterprise in Belfast was ren- dered dangerous and doubtful from the want of timely notice having been given to the inhabitants, so that there was a necessity for giving up or defer- ring its execution, many persons representing how much this town might suffer if the concerted seizure pf Carrickfergus should not take place. f Though the attempt was therefore unproductive of the expected consequences, the Protestants of the north, apprehensive of the rigorous severity of the Government for engaging in it, entered with more boldness and alacrity into associations for the de- fence of their religion. A messenger sailed from this town with an address to the Prince of Orange, then in England, declarative of their approbation of his undertaking, and their assistance in the subver- sion of the existing government in Ireland. At the * A Faithful History of the Northern Transactions, p, 11. f Mackenzie's Narrative. 38 same time the Presbyterians of Ulster sent Mr. Patrick Adair, minister in this town, and the fa- mous Abernethy, to wait upon his Highness, and, before he was proclaimed, congratulate him on his arrival and encourage him to persevere in the great design which he had in hand.* The an- swer to the Protestant address was received in SST March 1689, when King William and Queen Mary pro- claimed here. Mary were proclaimed and acknowledged here with every mark of attachment. In the levies and preparations which succeeded this avowal of the sentiments of the northern Protestants, the mer- chants of Belfast are mentioned as particularly libe- ral in their contributions. f But a stratagem for the surprisal of Carrickfergus having entirely failed, and the Protestant party being otherwise weakened, but feeble and unsteady opposition was offered to King James's troops in their march northwards. King William's adherents were dispersed in every direction, many of them seeking temporary security in this town. But a few days, however, after Bel- fast had evinced its satisfaction in the government of the new candidate for the throne, it also was ne- cessitated to yield to the opposite power. J The Sen°rT n Irish army took possession of this town, the garri- Kmg James s gQn jpg^jjjjg t Coleraine under the command of Sir Arthur Rawdon. According to some accounts Bel- 's • Kirkpatrick's Essay, p. 395. f Faithful Account, &c. p. 25. | Mackenzie, p. 13. fast. 39 fast suffered considerably by plunder on Ibis occa- sion,* while one of the most celebrated writers on the other side denies the accusation, and appeals to the sovereign and merchants of the town if nume- rous protections were not issued by King; James, and if they did not discover these orders so com- pletely efficacious as to find, on their return, the goods which they had left safe and untouched. f Many of the inhabitants having fled to Scotland and various other places, a proclamation was pub- Kin g james% 1 A x proclamation lished by the Government, promising to all those who ^Vf Be?- 1 " had resided in Belfast for the last twelve months a general amnesty for the crime of high treason, pro- vided they returned within forty days to their dwell- ings and resumed their several occupations. It al- so promised, that the possessions of such indivi- duals, of what kind soever, should be restored, and desired all officers, both civil and military, not to molest either the persons or the property of those who claimed the benefit of this pardon 4 The or- der was repeated in a letter from the Earl of Mel- fort to the sovereign of Belfast, in which it is stated, that directions have been given for the sub- sistence of the garrison without being a burthen to the town, and that his majesty will not confine * Full and Impartial Account of the Most Material Passages in Ireland since December 1688, p. 14. f Leslie's Answer to King, p. 148. J See the Protection at length in Leslie, p. 57, Appendix, 40 his mercy to any stated time. But the sanguinary conduct imputed to Marshal Rosen, in which Bel- fast did not escape, had the effect of alienating the minds of the people, and the Government proceeded to attaint not only the principal persons of this town, but of the whole counties of Down and An- trim. The obstinate resistance of Derry, and the pre- parations which were making in England for the defence of this kingdom, kept alive the hopes of those who were indisposed to submit to the power of a Catholic prince. Their wishes were speedily Arrival of gratified by the arrival of Duke Schombersr, who Duke Schom- ° J sf landed near Bangor on the 13th of August, 1689, with an army of ten thousand men. On the news of this event the Irish evacuated Belfast, when Schomberg sent Colonel Wharton's regiment to take possession of the place for King William. The Duke himself soon came to this town, and af- ter the surrender of Carrickfergus the whole army encamped within about a mile of Belfast.* He was joined here by many persons who were afraid to de- clare before, and having issued proclamations of pro- tection and encouragement to the different towns, that their former charters or privileges should be con- firmed and renewed, many, who had rejected the * Story's Impartial History, p. 7. Harris's Life of King Wil- liam, p. 244. berg, 41 offers of King James, among whom were the Bel- fast merchants, returned to their habitations. The army then marched southward, and though this town, or the adjacent country, was not the scene of much actual warfare, the great hospital here served for the reception of the numerous sick, who were afflicted with the dreadful disease which so miserably reduced Duke Schomberg's army during his encampment at Dundalk. There died in this hospital in six months 3762 persons, besides the multitudes which perished in the camp and on their way hither. Nor was this distemper confined to the military. " I have sometimes stood upon the street" says Story, alluding to Belfast, " and seen ten or a dozen corps of the towns-people go by in little more than half an hour."* The army of King William, however, was still Newacccs. J sionstothe strengthened with new accessions. In March, 1690, p a r r °ty CStallt four hundred Danes landed at this town from Whitehaven, and the following week all the foot arrived from Chester, with their General the Prince of Wirtemberg. Schomberg came to examine them and was much pleased with their appearance. In April, a regiment of Danish horse and some recruits came to this town, and four days after they were followed by the celebrated Sir Cloudesly Shovel, as * Story's Impartial History, p. 50. 42 convoy to some vessels which brought necessaries for the troops. On the 6th of June, Duke Schom- berg again visited Belfast, to be in readiness to re- ceive King William, who had embarked for Ireland two days before.* His majesty arrived at Carrick- fergus on the 14th of June 1690, and proceeded the same day to this town, which was then crowd- ed with soldiers and invalids. Duke Schomberg, and several other officers of rank, met the King Kingwaiiam about three miles from Belfast, who travelled the in Inland rmiingJTi'T remainder of the way in his Grace's carriage. He this town. -ii c 1 1 1 was received at the entrance ot the town by the so- vereign, burgesses, and a vast concourse of people, with the loudest acclamations, and was conducted to the castle, where the sovereign, on his knee, humbly offered the rod of authority, which his ma- jesty receiving, immediately returned, desiring him at the same time to rise. The sovereign, again kneeling, presented an address from the corpora- tion, which, after having been read, the King put in his pocket. His majesty seemed, during his stay in this town, to be particularly well pleased with its situation, as well as its inhabitants, and remarked, when within the castle, the door being open to the gardens, that it resembled Whitehall. It should not be omitted, that the sovereign intended to ac- quaint the King that the corporation had neither lands, tenements, hereditaments, rents, or commons, • Story, p. 5G, 53. 43 for the support of its dignity, or for the payment of any public taxes or charges which the town might incur, though by its trade it was a place of some importance, paying to the Exchequer, in customs and excise, the sum of twenty thousand pounds annually, and therefore that his majesty would be pleased to grant, out of the estate of those enemies whom he was going to conquer, such a proportion as in his gracious favour he might think fit. The burgesses, however, all refused to coincide in this proposal, thinking it would be ill-timed and inde- corous thus to beg of his majesty on his visit, though it was represented to them that such an op- portunity might never again occur. They no doubt repented afterwards of their delicacy in this affair, as it was confidently reported by a gentleman of good credit and reputation that when the King was in the west of Ireland this person heard his majesty say that he preferred the north part of the kingdom, especially Belfast and its neighbourhood, and that if the magistrates or inhabitants of that town had asked any favour from him, he would not have hesi- tated about granting it.* Ring William was attended in this town by many persons of distinction, and the second day after his arrival, an address was presented to him by Doctor Walker in the name of the Episcopal clergy, and * Corporation Records. 44 another by three Presbyterian ministers on the part of all those of that denomination in Ulster, both of which were most graciously received. His ma- jesty remained five nights in this town,* and near the time of his departure issued a proclamation from his " Court at Belfast," ordering the army on no account whatever to plunder or despoil the country, but to purchase fairly every article which they might require. The King then marched to Lisburn, where Schomberg kept his head quarters, leaving Belfast to enjoy the benefit of the peace which had thus been restored to this part of his dominions. A deficiency in historical materials at tins period. The history of Belfast from this important era is more of a pacific nature, presenting indeed for many years little worthy of preservation. But if there be an inadequate stock of materials to grati- fy an ardent curiosity or to swell our domestic an- nals, it is not thence to be inferred that the im- provement of the town had become less eminent or less auspicious. At the time of the Revolution it is mentioned both by Story and Leslie, as the largest and most considerable place for trade in the north of Ireland. From these and other notices it may be asserted that Belfast soon exchanged a secon- dary consequence in the wars for a more durable and more valuable precedence in the arts of peace, * Tlic King lodged in tlie house of Sir William Franklin, oppo- site the castlp, the Donegall Arras now occupying its site. 45 so that if the narrative be for a length of time inter- rupted or barren, the deficiency may be readily sup- plied. The advancement of trade and population will fully occupy the chasm, and this is certainly the true epoch, while its history is really destitute of me- morable incidents, that Belfast first commenced a rapid progress to the rank of one of the chief com- mercial towns in the British dominions. There are some circumstances, however, which require not to be entirely passed over. The art of The an of * ' y printing in- printing was first introduced into this town in 1696, troduced - the sovereign himself engaging in that most useful occupation. In 1708, Belfast is represented in a Manuscript Tour, by an anonymous traveller, as a handsome, busy, and populous town, with a great number of new houses and good shops, the inha- bitants being also mentioned as principally compos- ed of merchants. Nor did Belfast fail to display about the same time those principles which it had manifested at the accession of King William on the alarms of invasion so prevalent during the reign of Queen Anne. Such a report having been raised in the year 1708, a company, consisting of ninety men, £ wpliule was immediately embodied in this town, but its ser- vices were fortunately not required. Shortly after this time, the most injurious aspersions were thrown upon the Presbyterians for their monopoly of trade, 46 for evading the force of the test act, and several other offences contrary to the established laws. tt'Snto rs The Presbyterians of Belfast were particularly of this town refuted. the subject of these censures. The sovereign of this town was summoned before the House of Commons, charged by Lady Donegall with irregularities in the government of the corporation, by permitting dissenters to continue in office, though not quali- fied by the test act. After a long and minute ex- amination of the charges preferred against him, the sovereign was acquitted to the satisfaction of the house.* The unjust imputation of a monopoly of trade by the Belfast Presbyterians, was also refut- ed by a free and unsolicited declaration to the con- trary from eighty of the principal inhabitants, and members of the established church. f * Commons' Journals, v. 3. p. 538. •J- The accusations against the loyalty an 01 ly indebted for their origin. Upwards of .£20,000 have been contributed in shares of o£100 each, and the proprietors are now formed into a corporate bo- dy by act of parliament. Their remuneration con- sists of the subscriptions to the news-room, the rents of the different shops and offices, and the superior accommodations for mercantile affairs which the place affords. In connection with the former establishment, is the chamber of Commerce. ; Chamber of Commerce, first instituted in the year 1800. Its principal duties are understood to be the preservation of the rights or privileges of the com- mercial body, and the collection of documents of every description relative to trade and manufac- tures. The Exchange was founded in the year 1769. It Erelong* is built of brick, partially ornamented in front with cut stone, and possesses but little architectural beau- ty. There is a piazza on the ground floor, and above it a very elegant and spacious apartment, ge- nerally used either as an assembly-room, for town meetings, or for public exhibitions. There is no propriety whatever in continuing to distinguish this building by the name of the Exchange, as it is not at present applied to any mercantile purpose. It is intended, however, that the lower part of the side which fronts Donegall Street shallbe converted into 92 a Post Oflice, the place now appropriated to that use being unworthy of the town of Belfast both in appearance and situation. Custom House. The Custom House is an old, gloomy, and un- handsome edifice, situated on Hanover Quay, close to the edge of the water. The building has been enlarged at different periods, and is certainly not such as would be expected in a town which pays so largely to the legislature. It has been reported, however, for some time past, that it is the intention of government to widen and deepen the channel of the river, as well as to erect a new and more magnificent Custom House. No attempts have yet been made to realize these expectations, and it will probably be long be- fore they are carried into effect. Establish- ment of the Quays, &s. The establishment of the quays, as well as the origin and progress of the shipping trade here, must be reckoned among the most interesting information which the present work affords. The harbour of this town was formerly called, " the creek of the bo- rough of Belfast." This creek was the mouth of the small river which runs, as already mentioned, through High Street, and extended from the Lagan to the first bridge at Church Lane ; and though the lower part only of this stream was used as a quay, it was merely deep enough for lighters, the ships Jviiicr out in the channel. The rivulet, however, 93 which was once the only dock in Belfast, presents now, like the Lagan, a very different appearance from its natural state, being covered in, and confin- ed by embankments to the breadth of a few yards. It was found, however, in the year 1675, too small for the trade of jthe town, and the corporation deter- mined to improve it, principally by building a strong wall on the south side from the new stone house of George Macartney, as far down as the river Lagan at low water.* In 1696, farther alterations were projected, and it was agreed that money should be levied to make a sufficient sluice at Church Lane and Skippers Lane, and ordered at the same time that the river should be cleaned, to prevent over- flowing, by those bordering on it from Chades Bridge to the Mill. The quay was kept in repair by assessments of two pence per ton on vessels dis- charging at it, and the same rate on ships with freight outwards. Those belonging to freemen paid a penny per ton, and such as only plied to Gar- moyle ten shillings yearly. These funds, however, were probably insufficient for the purpose, as in 1709 the quay was so much choked up with mud, that even a lighter could scarcely come up to the wharf. An act of parliament therefore was passed in that year for improving or completing the work, imposing three pence per ton on foreign ships, and two pence on those belonging to freemen. But it * Corporation Records. 94 Origin of Hanover Cuay. still remained small and inconvenient till 1720, when Isaac Macartney, merchant, built the wall from the mouth of the dock to the Long Bridge, thus forming [what is now called Hanover Quay. This appears to have been the first attempt to make the river Lagan serviceable in this way, all previous improvements having been confined to the small stream which flows through the town. In 1769, the foundation of Chichester Quay was laid, which was afterwards extended down Lime Kiln Dock. Ballast Corporation. All the other quays have been of later construc- tion, and the chief improvements in this respect are to be attributed to the exertions of the Ballast Cor- poration, formed in 1795, and authorized by act of parliament to exact certain sums on registered ton- nage, for the purpose of improving the harbour, making docks, employing pilots, with various other regulations for the general advantage of the mer- cantile and shipping interest. Owing to such powers and resources, a graving dock, capable of con- taining three vessels of two hundred tons each, has been made ; and there is another of much greater extent, commenced almost three years since, but at present in an unfinished state. Both these, together with the new quays, have been made on ground re- claimed from the sea. Before the institution of the Ballast Corporation there were not more than eight or nine feet water at the quay ; at present, vessels 95 drawing fourteen feet water, and of four hundred tons burthen, can discharge their lading 1 . The im- provements within these ten years have been truly prodigious, Donegall Quay, which is the finest in the town, and one of the principal docks, having been almost entirely made in that time. The increase of the shipping trade of Belfast has shipping _ ° Trade. fully kept pace with the improvement in its docks. It does not appear that the recommendation of Sir John Perrot, to establish shipwrights here produced any effect, as the earliest notice which has been pro- cured relative to this subject, is an account of a vessel of one hundred and fifty tons burthen, built at Belfast in 1C36, by the persecuted ministers of the Presbyterian church. In 1700, there was launched here the ship " Loyal Charles," of two hundred and fifty tons burthen, built by the merchants of the town. These, however, as well as a few others of the same kind, were rare and remarkable occurren- ces ; for, previously to the year 1791, there was no Nore u]ar regular ship -yard in Belfast, all the vessels belong- heretofore the year 17'J! ing to the port being made and repaired in England or Scotland. From that time there ha\e been built here on an average, besides lighters and small craft, about two vessels annually, in general from one hun- dred and fifty to two hundred and twenty tons bur- then and upwards, numerous workmen being now constantly employed both for the wood and iron Old Market House. 96 work of ships. In the year 1811, there were twen- ty vessels trading exclusively between Belfast and England ; at present, there are nearly thirty, prin- cipally Liverpool and London traders. There is al- so a very fine steam packet for passengers regularly plying between Belfast and Glasgow ; and the number of ships of different kinds belonging to the port exceeds one hundred. There is very little trade carried on at present to the continent, while of the sixty-seven small vessels which belonged to Belfast in 1682, fifteen traded to France, and only an equal number to England. This, however, is undoubt- edly the principal port in Ireland for emigration to America. Many of those concerned in this trade are owners of the ships, but they are more frequent- ly under the management of brokers. Belfast is certainly indebted for much of its wealth and con - sequence to the extent of its shipping trade, which, at least for England, has been brought to a very great degree of despatch and general excellence. As connected with the trade of the town, an account of the market house and markets must necessarily be included. The earliest notice on this head was in 1664, when it was represented that the want of a proper courthouse or town hall occasioned great loss and inconvenience to the inhabitants of this bo- rough ; and as George Macartney, then sovereign, had obtained permission from the Earl of Donegall 97 that the upper part of the cellars next the mar- ket place, to which he had added at his own cost a staircase, with other suitable additions, and orna- mented with the King's arms, should be converted to this use, the corporation also acceded to the pro- posal, and reimbursed the sovereign for the money which he had expended*. This was the first re- gular town -hall or tholsel, though a temporary place had previously been used for that purpose. In 1665, the inhabitants of Malone, Falls, Dunmurry, and part of the parish of Coole, were, on account of their contributions towards erecting a court-house and market-house here, exempted from the tolls and customs usually paid at the gates of Belfast. This market house was situated at the corner of High Street, next Corn Market. It was only demolish- ed about twelve years ago, its appearance at that time being extremely old and ruinous. It had been last used as a kind of temporary barrack or guard room, a second market-house having been afterwards built at the other extremity of Corn Market, which • This George Macartney, whose name so frequently occurs in every public business connected with the early state of tbe town, was the great grand father of the late Earl Macartney. There were dif- ferent members of this family actively concerned in the advancement and prosperity of Belfast ; but the person here alluded to was tbe first who arrived at this place. He was a captain of horse, and settled here in the year 1649. He held several important situations, and died in this town shortly after the Revolution. The ancestor of the Northland family also was a merchant in Bel- fast, in the reign of William III. His resignation of his place of burgess on removing to Dungannon. signed Thomas Knox, and dat ed 1697, is transcribed in the Records. N 98 situation of W as also, however, destroyed some years since. The the markets ' J J ineariytmies ,g; tua tj on f the old building determined that of the market. In 1694, it was found that many persons,, not bred merchants, purchased without the gates great quantities of butter, hides, and tallow, to the prejudice of the free merchants and traders of the town, it was ordered that none of these goods should be bought or sold elsewhere than " between the up- per Castle gate, Church Lane and Skiper Lane on either side of the river, and in Bridge Street, be- tween the bridge called the Stone Bridge, and the corners turning down to Broad Street * and Rose- mary Lane." The market fluctuated for a long time about these places. It is only a very few years since High Street, Corn Market, and Ann Street, were the chief marts. Poultry Square was after- wards used for the same purpose, but now May's Market, built at the extremity of Chichester Street, on ground reclaimed from the sea, is the principal place for the sale of butter, meal, eggs, potatoes, and vegetables. Most of these articles are also sold in several other smaller markets, which are much better situated for the convenience of the inha- bitants. One of these is in Castle Place, ano- ther in William Street South, and a third, which has been lately commenced, off High Street. The sale of flesh meat is not confined to any particular situ- ation, being disposed of in Hercules Street, Corn * Waring Street was formerly called Broad Street, Present markets. g 39 C=3 .^1 *1 99 Market, and several other places. The Weigh House, where pork and firkin butter, which form so large a part of the Belfast exports, are bought, is a plain low building at the end of Waring Street. Smithiield Square is the place where cattle are sold, as also pedlars goods and numerous other articles. The market for grain is also held here three days in the week, and for hides four. There are three barracks in this town ; one for artillery, and two for infantry. The former, which stands in Carrickfergus Street, is a very neat and convenient structure, but at present nearly unoccu- pied. Of the latter, the principal is also situated in Carrickfergus Street. It was erected at the time of the last rebellion, and forms a very spacious square, surrounded with houses. The oldest edi- fice of this kind, however, is in Barrack Street. It was built in 1737, but is not now in use, the num- ber of soldiers at present stationed here being much smaller than formerly. There is likewise a theatre in Belfast, very ex- cellently and tastefully fitted up in the inside, though its exterior is not only unornamented, but heavy and disagreeable. 100 Manufactures. Cotton, Belfast the first place in Ireland where it was introduced. The principal manufacture of this town is cot- ton in its various branches. It was introduced into Belfast so lately as the year 1777, and its amaz- ing increase since that period must be a convincing proof, not only of the expediency of its introduc- tion, but of the perseverance of those who have been concerned in its rapid and unequalled progress. The present importance of the cotton trade in Ulster must indeed be truly surprising, not only because so few years have elapsed since its establishment, but when we consider that it was first introduced on speculation into the Belfast Poor House as an employment for the children. The immense num- ber of persons engaged in this business, and the multiplicity of its dependant trades and occupations, have deservedly rendered it an object of the first consequence to the inhabitants of this town. Divides itself into two branches. The manufacture of cotton divides itself into two branches, the spinning of the wool into yarn, and the weaving of the latter. Large manufactories and extensive capitals are generally required for the former purpose. The two trades are often dis- connected, many persons in Belfast giving out the yarn to be woven who are not concerned in the spinning of the wool. It would be a very arduous 101 undertaking to ascertain the number of looms in this town and parish. In many of the streets and po- pulous roads in the suburbs of the town, particu- larly at Ballymacarrett, the sound of the loom issues almost from every house, and all, with very few exceptions, are employed in the different branches of the cotton trade. In the year 1800, this business engaged in Belfast and its neighbourhood, includ- ing its branches and connections, 27,000 persons. For the eleven years succeeding that time, the trade Its extent still continued to increase, and within that short pe- periods. riod there were employed in Belfast, and a circuit of ten miles round it, for the cotton manufacture exclusively, fifteen steam engines, equal to 212 horses' power, and driving 99,000 spindles. In this town and its immediate vicinity, there were in the year 1814, eight cotton mills at work. There are at present seven, one of which is the largest in Ireland. The trade in general, particularly the spinning department, appears to be in a more in a better nourishing condition at present than it was some lomeyears a g°- years ago, and though there is a vast number of weavers resident in this town, those of the sur- rounding country for many miles are also in most cases employed by persons in Belfast. Connected with the preceding are those mills for Miiisfor spinning and printing and bleaching cotton, which also form an blcathin g 102 important source of employment to great numbers of people. There is not either in the town or pa- rish any extensive establishment for calico printing. There is a small manufactory of this kind on the Falls road, a short distance from Belfast ; but the works at White-house, and Hyde Park, where this ingenious and elegant manufacture has attained a very great degree of perfection, are both beyond the precincts of the parish. There are also two small mills near the town, for bleaching cotton, one on the Shankill, and the other on the Lodge road. Linen cicih. There is very little linen cloth woven in this town or parish. In 1807, Belfast contained 723 looms, only four of which were for weaving linen, and the number is probably not much greater at present. The market here for the sale of brown linen is situ- ated in Donegall Street. It is supplied from various quarters of the country, and has an excellent cha- racter for fineness of quality. While Linen Hall The White Linen Hall is a large quadrangu- lar building, enclosing an extensive area, and fine- ly situated at the termination of Donegall Place. The front, or rather the centre, of this edifice has a very pleasing effect, being handsome and light with an extremely neat spire. It is entirely surrounded with railing, and is the principal promenade in the town. The numerous apartments which the build- [=3 te3 rope manu- facture. 103 iug contains are chiefly occupied as the rooms and offices of the linen drapers. The cloth is here re- ceived from the bleachers, and prepared for sale or exportation, being chiefly carried either to Eng- land, America, or the West Indies. Though there is but little linen woven in this i.men Bleaching. town or neighbourhood, the bleaching of this article is carried on to a very great extent. In the parish of Belfast alone there are twelve bleach greens, which beautify the country and give employment to its inhabitants. The canvas manufacture was established in Bel- canvas'and fast about the year 1784, when six looms commen ced. There are now two extensive manufactories, besides a great number of rope walks. On the Blacksaff river at Cromac, near its Paper junction with the Lagan, is a large paper mill, the only one in the parish. It is driven both by steam and water. The casting of iron has been long established in iron. Belfast and Ballymacarrett. The Belfast and Lagan fouuderies are very extensive, particularly in the casting of metal wheels, and in the former several steam engines have been made. There are two glass houses in Ballymacarrett, Glass. and one in Belfast. The manufacture is entirely confined to white or flint glass. One of those in Ballymacarrett, which is at present unoccupied, is 104 Vitriol, &-c. Breweries, Miscellaneous manufac- tures. one hundred and twenty feet in height, and sixty in diameter, having heen originally hnilt for the purpose of making window and green hottle glass, both of which are now imported from Scotland. There are also two extensive salt manufactories, both beyond the Lagan, and built on ground re- claimed from the sea. There are likewise in Ballymacarrett two manu- factories for vitriol, bleachers smalts, &c. Belfast contains five breweries, and one of the most complete and extensive distilleries in Ireland. Of the extent of its more inconsiderable manufac- tures, such as soap and candles, hats, leather, and some others, a good estimate may be formed, when the population of Belfast, and it might almost be said of the neighbouring counties, is considered.* * The astonishing progress which has been made in this town these some years past in several branches of the mechanic arts, particularly jewellery and engraving, is worthy of particular notice. As to the former, the large and splendid shops which Belfast now contains, have sprung up with wonderful rapidity. It is not more than twenty years since there was but one poor working jeweller in all this town. Though earlier attempts seem to have been made in the en- graving, they were not attended with success. In 1753, a copper- plate press was set up, and an engraver occasionally visited this place, but the first of the trade who settled, nor was his stay probably very long, was Daniel Pomareda, who took up his abode at John Tem- pleton's in North-street, next door to the sign of the Still. There arc now four or five establishments, employing numerous workmen for copper plate engraving, die sinking, and every other i ranch of the business, and in some of which, the trade, in point of execution, has leached a very considerable degree of respectability. 105 The mills in the parish for the preparation of grain are not so numerous as might be expected, nor as the consumption of Belfast would appear to require. It contains but one flour mill, on the Falls road, a short distance from the town, which is however extremely large. The Belfast market is chiefly supplied with meal from the adjoining coun- try, the want of corn mills and others in the parish being - satisfactorily accounted for by considering, that the water is chiefly required for the bleach - greens, and the facility with which every thing of this description can be procured in Belfast. There are likewise several manufactories both in the town and parish for starch, logwood, and glue. In this enumeration, it is also necessary to include the manufacture of bricks, and burning of lime, which afford employment to a very considerable num- ber of people. The latter, particularly, has expe- rienced a very great increase within these some years, and is certainly a symptom of improvement in other respects. Great quantities are carried to the county of Down, there being few places in which the limestone is found in such profusion or purity as in ihe parish of Belfast. o 106 Institutions for Charitable Purposes, and Hefor- mation of Manners. incorporated The Belfast Incorporated Charitable Society, or, so^ety. as j t j 8 more g. enera ]jy denominated, the Poor House, for the reception of aged and infirm persons as well as for the support and instruction of children desti- tute of protectors, has long remained a noble proof of the general philanthropy which prevails among the inhabitants of this town. It stands at the ex- tremity of Donegall Street, in an elevated and healthful situation. The ground was granted by the late Marquis of Donegall, the building com- pleted by subscriptions and the produce of a lottery, and first opened for the purposes above stated in the year 1774. Since its commencement, it has preserved annually about three hundred indivi- duals, old and young ; the former from want and misery, the latter from idleness and vice. The children are here instructed in the elementary branches of education, till they are considered capa- ble of being apprenticed out to trades. The old are carefully attended to, being permitted to increase their comforts by their own industry ; and it is a proof not less of the instability of fortune than of the great benefits of the establishment, that an indi- vidual was lately received into the Poor House who had, in more prosperous times, contributed to its c 107 support. All its inmates, varying in number, but commonly about three hundred and fifty, are fed and clothed at the expense of the society. The dress of the children is uniform ; they walk on the Sabbatli Day, hand in hand, to the respective houses of worship ; and due care is taken, in every respect, of their moral and religious habits. The whole government of the Institution is conducted in the most methodical manner, and it receives contri- butions from every denomination of Christians, all being anxious for the continuance of an establish- ment which is as invaluable to the poor as it is cre- ditable to the opulent. The House of Industry in Smithfield, which is House of Industry. conducted in an inconsiderable building, presents many of the same incalculable benefits. It Avas in- stituted in the year 1809, for the purpose of abo- lishing pauperism, and for supplying the really necessitous with the means of support. Poor per- sons resident in the town, who are found upon examination proper objects of charity, are supplied gratuitously with weekly rations of fuel and provi- sions. Nor are its advantages confined to this. Hundreds of females are furnished with flax to spin at their own houses, and are paid for their work without any deduction, a plan which not only guards against idleness but obviates that repug- 108 nance which many feel at being- considered objects, of charity. House of The House of Correction was erected in 1817, Correction. ' by presentment of the Grand Jury. The appear- ance of this place corresponds with its use. It is a dark, strong- building of brick, surrounded with a high wall. There is a house for the governor of the prison, and numerous cells and apartments for the confinement or reformation of convicts. There is a spacious hall here for the Quarter Sessions, in which the sovereign's and seneschal's courts are also held. The prisoners are not suffered to remain unemployed. Those who are acquainted with trades are furnished with materials, and obliged to work during the period of their imprisonment. The rest are employed in spinning, chipping logwood, or picking oakum. The discipline of this prison is so strict and correct that its influence has been most salutary on the conduct of the disorderly in this town and neighbourhood. There is a small chapel within the building where divine service is regularly performed. societyfor There has been a branch of the Society for Dis- Discount) - i i • i i i • i nancing vice, countenancing Vice established here since the year 1815, which has proved highly beneficial, owing to the low prices at which religious books and tracts BhV can be purchased. There is a Bible Society form- ed in this town, as also a Ladies' Bible Associa- a 109 tion, patronized by some of the most learned and wealthy members of the community. By the report of the Committee in October 1821, which was as in- teresting as the occasion on which it was delivered, the number of bibles issued from the Repository dur- ing- the preceding- year was 752, and of testa- ments 604. The Belfast Saving Bank certainly yields to few saving Bank. institutions in point of real, substantial advantage. No deposits, however small, are rejected, and the fund which the-p'oor are thus enabled almost insen- sibly to form, cannot but be found of inestimable be- nefit in times of scarcity and disease, or when no longer able to work for their support. The Fever Hospital is an extensive and commodi- Fever Hospital. ous building, situated in Frederick Street, and cal- culated for the reception of more than two hundred patients. Its advantages, during the late severe and continued attack of typhus fever, have been fully experienced by the inhabitants of this town. A dispensary, but on a much more confined scale than the present Fever Hospital, had been establish- ed here in 1792, by which the poor of the place were furnished with medicines and medical advice. The mode of connecting a dispensary with an hospital, was adopted in the year 1797, and has not been dis- continued in the present enlarged establishment. In 110 1817, the new hospital was opened, when seventeen patients were removed to it from the old, hut very shortly after this removal the typhus fever broke out, and there were admitted in the space of thir- teen weeks 461, and in the succeeding three months 959 persons. By act of parliament the Grand Jury is enabled to grant c£400 annually to its support, so that no patient belonging either to the town or coun- try is refused admittance. The dispensary depart- ment not only extends to the distribution of medi- cines, but poor persons are visited at their homes when unable to attend the physicians or surgeons. From its commencement in 1817 to May 1820, the total number of patients admitted was 3452, be- sides which, and exclusively of the medicines furnished to the Poor House and Lying in Hospital, there were 10,718 prescriptions filled for extern poor, for the year ending in April, 1820. ciotwn f 7he The other establishments of a similar kind, such as the Penitentiary, to which the whole province contributes subscriptions, the Lying-in Hospital, and the Society for Clothing the Poor, are conduct- ed in small or private biddings, but their effects have been no less beneficial and the motives of those benevolent persons who devote their time and at- tention to such objects equally merit the sincere ap^ probation of the wise and good. Ill The Lancasterian School stands in Frederick i^ncastwian School. Street. The Belfast Sunday School was establish- ed in the year 1802, since which time the excellent and ingenious system of Mr. Lancaster has been brought to maturity. The original plan consisted only of a Sunday School, but the present establish- ment has existed these several years past with in- creasing energy, liberal in its principles and effective in the diffusion of knowledge. No distinction of religion excludes any from its benefits, and it is at present attended by about 700 children. The large house in Brown Street was, until Brown street School. lately, a Sunday School. To this has been added a daily school, and the two at present communicate instruction to more than 1400 persons. The plan which has been adopted is extremely judicious and worthy of imitation. The children pay a very tri- fling sum as a compensation for what they are taught, which, by preserving the independence of their parents, is often a strong inducement to profit by the advantages which the school affords. There is another Sunday School in the Methodist Methodist Chapel in Donegall Square, established nearly two s^"** years ago. It is attended by about 600 children, and is likewise deserving in every respect of the patronage and admiration of the community. 112 society for A. BRANCH of the Society for the Instruction of the instructing J Dumb 68 a Deaf and Dnmh has been lately formed in Belfast, an institution which is not less praiseworthy in its vieAvs than successful and ingenious in their execu- tion. Harp society There is likewise a Harp Society here, by which blind children, in contributing their efforts to pre- serve from disuse the ancient and delightful instru- ment of our country, are enabled to procure their subsistence in a manner equally gratifying to the ear and to the heart. Houses of Worship. The old The church of this town formerly stood on the Church. south side of High Street, near the quay. Many old inhabitants recollect this antique building. The sovereign and burgesses formerly repaired to it in great state at the celebration of divine service. The sovereign was habited in a scarlet or crimson cloak, and the twelve burgesses in black, preceded by the town serjeants bearing the mace. This practice has long since been discontinued, though there is a pew in each of the churches reserved for their use, and always called the " Burgesses' Seat." In 1627, an order was issued by the corporation, that every burgess and free commoner should attend the sovereign to church. In 1615, however, a more ^ ^sssr'g sungiRcsm 113 strict observance was required, and small fines were imposed on the inhabitants of the borough for non- attendance at public worship, a householder for such neglect incurring a penalty of two pence, a woman a penny, a servant a halfpenny, and, under certain limitations, every child dwelling within their houses a farthing. The ancient state of this church is pretty clearly shown by an item in the records in 1645, of five shillings for repairing it with shingles. It was pulled down, however, in 1777, being considered both unsafe and inconvenient, and the foundation The present parish of St. Anne's, or the Parish Church, situated in ch «c h - Donegall-street, was laid the same year. This building, on account of its high and beautiful stee- ple, is probably the most magnificent in the town. The upper part of the steeple is of wood, but the whole is certainly rather disproportionate in point of size with the front view of the building. The roof is arched and supported with columns, which, though rendering the galleries low, communicate to its interior an appearance of considerable grandeur. The seats in this church are principally of maho- gany, and it also contains a fine organ. Tiie Chapel of Ease in High Street, on the site Thechapei of Ease. of the former church, was commenced in 1811. Its 114 portieo is by far the most beautiful and costly piece of architecture in the town, or perhaps in the king- dom. It formed the front of Ballyscullen, the. ce- lebrated palace of the late Earl of Bristol, and was the munificent gift of the present Bishop of Down and Connor. This portico is of the Corinthian or- der, consisting of six lofty and massive columns, and four fluted pilasters. The capitals of these pil- lars are beautifully executed : the pediment is orna- mented with the arms of the see and of the town of Belfast. Though the interior of the chapel appears bare, the gallery is supported by very handsome pillars. The chancel is lighted from the top by an elliptical window, and supported by two very beau- tiful columns of the Ionic order. This church is capable of accommodating upwards of 1200 per- sons ; but the effect which its appearance might otherwise produce, is nearly altogether lost by its incongruity with the surrounding buildings, which are among the oldest and meanest in the town. There are four Presbyterian meeting houses in K^« g Belfast. There is an obscure tradition that a place of worship of this kind existed at a very early period in Hercules Street; but at the begin- ning of the last century, the only building in the town for the Presbyterian worship was an old and inconvenient house, which had probably been long PTertwterian o "x 1 m Ii3 LIS in existence, standing in Rosemary Street, where rmi con- gregation. that of the First Congregation is now erected. Being found too small for the increasing numbers who attended it, a separation took place ; a new house was built behind the former, in 1708, to which 120 families removed, forming thus the Second g^,, Con . , gregation. Presbyterian Congregation. In 1717, nine years after this event, the original old house was rebuilt. They remained in this situation till 1722, when the separation of the Presbytery of Antrim from the General Synod, on points of doctrine, caused a far- ther disunion among the members of these two bodies. Those who adhered to the principles of the Synod, seceded from the rest, and having erected a new house, in 1722, also in Rosemary Street, con- stituted thus the Third Presbyterian Congregation. J^ST" In 1783, the meeting house of the First Congrega- tion, built, as already stated, in 1717, was again taken down and the present edifice, the third which has stood on the same spot, was erected. The house of the Second Congregation was likewise rebuilt on the site of the former, in the year 1790. Both are enclosed in the same ground, and, as they formed one religious society originally, still remain closely connected. To these was added, in 1702, the meet- ing house of the Fourth Presbyterian Congrega- Fourth co*. tion, which stands in Donegal! Street. 116 All these are large and commodious. That of the First Congregation is an admired structure, of an elliptical form, and built of brick ; that of the Third is the oldest place of worship in the town. The front projects considerably ; and the building, in every respect, indicates its antiquity, the windows being small, the roof steep, and the house devoid of all external ornament. This is also the largest congregation, the Presbyterians in the country parts of the parish being chiefly members of it.* * The following are the names of the pastors of these several con- gregations, with the dates of their nomination : first. 1672. Rev. W. Keyes, who resigned in 1674. 1675. Rev. Patrick Adair. This minister, who died in 1694, was considerably distinguished as a public charac- ter and as a man of talents. He left some valuable MSS. on the first settlement of the Presbyterians in Ulster, which were unfortunately lost. 1694. Rev. John Macbride. 1711. Rev. Thomas Melling, his colleague, 1719. Rev. Samuel Halliday. 1756. Rev. Thomas Drennan, his colleague and successor. Rev. Clot worthy Brown. Mr. Drennan's first col- league. He died in 1755. 1756. Rev. James Mackay. Mr. Drennan's second col- league and successor. 1770. Rev. James Crombie, D. D. Mr. Mackay's colleague and successor. 1790. Rev. William Bruce, D. D.one of its present pastors. 1812. Rev. William Bruce, his colleague. Second. 1708. Rev. Kirkpatrick, D. D. and M. D. 1744. Rev. Gilbert Kennedy. 1773. Rev. James Bryson. 1791. Rev. Patrick Vance. 1800. Rev. W. H. Drummond, D. D. 1816. Rev. W. D. H. M'Ewen, its present minister. Third. 1722. Rev. Thomas Mastertown. 1747. Rev. William Laird, his colleague and successor. 1791, Rev. Sinclaire Kelburn, his colleague and successor. 1799. Rev. Samuel Hanna, D. D. its present minister. Fourth. 1792. Rev. James Bryson. . Rev. Robert Achcson, its present minister. Z 3 - 117 There are two meeting houses for Seceders in seceding ° Meeting this town ; one in Berry Street, erected in 1770, Houses and the second, which has been but lately finished, in Lower Arthur Street. There are also three Methodist Chapels in Bel- Methodist 1 Chapels. fast. The largest is situated in Donegall Square, the second is in Academy Street, and the third in Cotton Court. These chapels are neatly built, and two of them are of the Wesley an principles. In Donegall Street there is an Independent indepen. Meeting House, built in 1804, and an excellent, well proportioned building on the Dublin road south of the Linen Hall, for Covenanters, or that sect covenanters. called the Reformed Presbyterians. In Frederick Street the Society of Friends have a neat house Quakers. erected in 1812, and in King Street the most incon- siderable congregation in the town, called Baptists, Baptists. have a small place of worship. There are two Roman Catholic Chapels in this ^""f 3 - 1 tholic Cha- town numerously attended. Before these were pel! " built the number of Roman Catholics in Belfast The following are the names, &c. of the ministers of the two con- gregations of Seceders :— First. 1770. Rev. William Carmichael. 1798. Rev. John Nicholson. 1814. Rev. William Carr, its present pastor. Second. 1821. Rev. John Edgar, its first and present minister. 118 was extremely inconsiderable, mass having been celebrated in the open air at the old grave-yard in Malone, called Friars Bush, and afterwards in a small waste house in Castle Street. The Catholics, however, increasing with the general population, St. Mary's, or what is now called the Old Chapel, was built in 1783. In 1811, another of greater beauty and extent was erected near the top of Do- negall Street, which is one of the finest edifices in the town. The front is ornamented with a cross and pinnacles of freestone ; the doors and windows are in the Gothic style, and the chapel is likewise fur- nished with a gallery and organ , Literary Establishments, State of Learning, $$c. Academical The most important subject under the head of li- Institution. terary establishments is the Academical Institution. Its foundation was laid in the year 1810, but at pre- sent it forms only a part of the original extent of building, though it is one of the most elegant and best proportioned edifices in the town, which pro- bably arises however more from situation than from any great beauty of architecture. It stands at the western end of the town, forming a very fine termi- nation to Chichester Street, Donegall Square North, and Wellington Place. The ground in which it is erected, containing about four Irish acres, was granted by the Marqui* of Donegall, c 1-4 13 119 andia enclosed on three of its tidea by a wall, and in front by an iron railing. The building is of brick, considerably ornamented with cut stone ; and its whole appearance presents nothing of gloom or hea- viness. There is a dwelling-house at each end, (with extensive dormitories for the accommodation of boarders) one for the Classical, and the other for the English head master, besides many suitable apartments throughout the building for lecture and school rooms. Tht. uses and advantages of this Institution, i t , origin. however, are more important subjects. In this part of Ireland, which is confessedly so rich and popu- lous, an establishment calculated to improve its lite- rary taste and character, must long have appeared a desirable object. Some intelligent and enlightened inhabitants of Belfast and its vicinity, fully aware of the inestimable advantages which would accrue to the whole province of Ulster from the establish- ment of a college in this town or in any other eligi- ble situation, entered into the spirit of such an un- dertaking with the most disinterested ardour and the most laudable promptitude. It was never intended that the benefits of such an institution should be re- stricted to the instruction of the members of one re- ligion, or to the preparation for one profession. The abstruseness of science was to be enlivened with the charms of polite literature, and a system of educa- 120 tion, not less extensive thnn liberal, was speedily projected and as earnestly desired to be carried into effect. Amount of Subscriptions were accordins;lv commenced in the subscriptions, A ~ J year 1807, and the sum of o£16,000 was soon con- tributed, which has since been greatly increased from different quarters, particularly by liberal re- mittances from the Marquis of Hastings and other Irishmen in India, zealous for the improvement of their native country. A very considerable part of these subscriptions was expended in the erection of a suitable building, and in procuring other neces- sary accompaniments. The Institution, after hav- ing been incorporated by act of parliament, in 1810, was intrusted to the care of some of the most active or liberal proprietors, called Managers and Visiters . A President and four Vice-Presidents, distinguish- ed for their rank or talents, were also chosen, and the most sanguine expectations were formed of a full and speedy accomplishment of the wishes of the community. Large however as the contributions undoubtedly were, and notwithstanding the general ardour which was displayed in the prosecution of this most praise- worthy design, the collections that had been made insufficient were judged insufficient, both for the completion of for the ori- ginal design. |h e original building, and the endowment of the a e b-i 121 proposed number of professorships. The proprie- tors determined to solicit the assistance of Govern- ment, and shortly after the support of the General Synod of Ulster, and the Seceding Bodies in Ire- land. In all these applications they were success- ful. The sum of o£l500 was bestowed annually on Assistance from Go- this Institution by parliament for three years. This vemment, grant, however, has since been withdrawn ; but great hopes are at present entertained that it may be renewed, which is very much to be desired, not only on the score of pecuniary advantage, but on account of the increased respectability and confidence always attending those establishments that receive the countenance and support of the government of the country. From the Synod and the Seceding Bo- dies, encouragement equally flattering and cordial was received. They accepted the advances of the proprietors, and agreed so far to patronize the In- stitution as to recommend it as a proper seminary for the education of the young men under their care designed for the ministry, to require their modera- tors and committees to attend the annual examina- tions, for the purpose of reporting on the proficiency of the students, and the general government of the College ; and finally, to consider the general certi- ficate of the Faculty, as equivalent to a degree in arts from any of the Scotch universities. In conse- quence of such support, these bodies have become Q 122 more connected with this Institution than any other religious society. Under the consideration of the inadequacy of the funds, it had been deemed advi- sable to limit the original plan to the endowment of Professors in Natural Philosophy, Moral Philoso- phy, Logic and Belles Lettres, Hebrew, Greek, Latin and Mathematics, these being- the first and most indispensable studies for professional persons. It had also been considered necessary to add to the establishment schools for Classics, Mathematics, Arithmetic, and the other elementary branches of education. These schools were opened with appro- priate ceremony on the first of February 1814, but it was not till November 1815, that the college classes commenced. Since that period seven ses- sions have elapsed, and the number of students each year has progressively increased, having amounted last season to about two hundred, besides those who attended the popular lectures. Though the external business of the Institution is regulated by the Boards of Managers and Visiters, the more important affairs relating to the moral and literary behaviour and proficiency of the college stu- dents are committed to the Faculty instituted in the year 1818, consisting of the several professors, who have hitherto been vigilant and prompt in the performance of these duties. The schools, attended by about four hundred pupils, are under the super- 123 intendance of the different teachers, styled the Board of Masters, who make rules and regulations for their general government. The college department then at present bears Routine of business in considerable resemblance in plan and mode of in- theColle e e struction to the university of Glasgow. The ses- sion commences at November, and terminates at May. The students usually attend Logic the first year, Moral Philosophy the second, and Natural Phi- losophy the third. During these sessions they must also receive instructions in Hebrew, Greek, Latin and Mathematics ; but it is found often desirable to attend some of the former classes a second time. From the excellent schools also in the Institution they are enabled with the utmost convenience to improve and extend their elementary education, and to de- rive instruction on branches of literature which thoir former situation or habits might never have afford- ed. The lectures are read by the professors, their pupils are examined daily on the subjects of these lectures, which are farther impressed on their minds by the production of frequent essays. Every regu- lar student is examined on his entrance in Greek and Latin, and in the second and third years of his attendance his memory is refreshed by a re -exami- nation, at the commencement of the session, on those subjects which he studied the preceding year. At May the annual and public examinations already 124 alluded to take place, when prizes are distributed, not only for the excellence which is then displayed, but there are also others of a more important kind determined by the unbiassed votes of the students themselves for general proficiency during the entire six months. There are several other examinations and essays, principally of a voluntary kind, but ac- companied with suitable rewards, proposed by the Boards of Managers and Visiters, the Faculty and the Professors individually, for the encouragement of talents. The motives to exertion, therefore, are thus numerous ; but even if such inducements did not exist, the most strict attention, and the conse^ quent improvement, could not be evaded, The professional student, after having passed through all these trials, has to give a still more sa- tisfactory and difficult exhibition of his abilities than any which he has yet experienced. He must prove himself, by a full examination, thoroughly acquainted with Hebrew, Greek, Latin, Logic and Belles Let- tres, Metaphysics and Moral Philosophy, Natural Philosophy and Mathematics, and, if found duly pre- pared, he is presented with the general certificate of the Institution, the possession of which entitles him to commence the most important part of his labours, the study of divinity. There are two professors of Divinity in the College appointed by the respective Synods, and to the zealous and friendly co-opera- 125 tion of these most respectable bodies must in a great measure be ascribed the success which has hitherto attended the Belfast Institution. Their patronage was freely granted, and it is confidently to be ex- pected, that it shall never be found that such support has been misplaced. In the short space of time which this establishment has existed, though strug- gling with difficulties, it has fully confirmed the hopes of its warmest friends, and realized in many respects the great and manifold advantages of home education e Besides those which have been mentioned, there are several other classes in the College of a more po- pular kind. The professor of Logic has a senior Belles Lettres class, in which the principles of taste and criticism, as well as the progress of polite lite- rature, are illustrated and explained. The profes- sors of Natural Philosophy and Anatomy also deli- ver popular lectures of great interest and import- ance, the former on Chemistry and Natural His- tory, and the latter on Botany. There is likewise a lecturer on Elocution, and, belonging to the school department, excellent classes for English, Geogra- phy, Italian, French, Drawing, and many other de- partments of literature. It is much to be regretted, however, that the funds are at present so low as to preclude the hope of endowments for professors of Civil History, Agriculture and some other branches, 126 Library, &c. f knowledge equally necessary. The library con- tains upwards of two thousand volumes, many of them valuable, and principally connected with the subjects which are studied in the different classes. The philosophical apparatus is new, valuable, and on the most approved construction ; and the mu- seum, though not yet very extensive, is daily increas- ing in magnitude. As at present established, therefore, this Institu- tion is far from being confined to one object, for numbers attend both the philosophical and the po- pular lectures, who have no design in view but the improvement of their minds. In one of the classes last year, there were persons of four religious per- suasions, and Protestants of the Established Church have frequently attended the classes with considera- ble profit. It is also worthy of notice, and it is not mentioned here as a matter of course, that all those who have received their education in this seminary have fully sustained, either as ministers or teachers, the credit of their instructors, and have felt the en- tire benefit of that diligence which they were there required to exercise*. society for The Belfast Society for Promoting Knowledge Promoting •' o o Knowledge. w&g mstitutec l m t l le year 1788> I t consists of a library containing nearly four thousand volumes, a small museum, and some philosophical apparatus. 127 Some of the books are rare, but they are in general approved modern works. There is also an excel- lent library in the Belfast Academy, a seminary ^ ny which has acquired great and deserved celebrity as a classical school. The books here are old and va- luable, chiefly on divinity and church history. The Belfast Literary Society was formed in 1801. ^^ Its objects are understood to consist of inquiries in- to science, antiquities, topography, or subjects of general literature. The meetings of this Society are monthly, commencing at October and ending at May ; but whatever advantage the members them- selves may have experienced, the public have not certainly derived that benefit which was expected from their labours, and it is now several years since any papers or fasciculi were published. Natural His- tory Society. There has been a Natural History Society lately formed in the town, which has already made some progress in the collection of a museum, and which is principally composed of persons who have received their education at the College, or who are still con- nected with it. Belfast, however, can by no means be called a Literary cha. 7 7 J racter, &c. of literary town. It has been styled the Athens of Betfast " Ireland ; but if it be meant by such a designation, that the same love for literature and the arts which - 128 distinguished the greatest of the Grecian states prevails also here, no name was ever more grossly misapplied. There is very little taste in Belfast for the fine arts, nor do the inhabitants generally dis- play in their ordinary intercourse that desire for li- terature which were to be wished and expected. It has been said to have meddled too much with poli- tics to have attended sufficiently to such affairs, and that a greater relish for literary pursuits might mo- dify this political spirit. It may, however, be at present distinctly perceived, that the literary re- spectability of this town is increasing, and it may confidently be anticipated, that every succeeding year will render that increase more extended and more durable. The College must be the principal cause of this. It will widely communicate the be- nefits of a liberal education, which is incompatible with no situation in life. The Scotch universities are numerously attended by individuals who are not designed for any learned 'profession. The conse- quences are as well known as they are creditable to that nation. The people are enlightened and in- dustrious, not less, but more intent on commerce and manufactures. One of their greatest univer- sities is contained in one of the greatest trading ci- ties in the world, and the classes of that very uni- versity are swelled with numbers who are hereafter to be engaged in that very trade. It may fairly be expected, that Belfast shall one day be similarly si- 129 tuated, and all who are anxious for the improvement of this town and province should zealously promote so desirable an object. There are three newspapers, but at present no Newspaper*. &c. magazine, published in Belfast.* This latter, how- ever, will perhaps accompany the rise of the College, and even now there is reason to think that a period- ical work of that literary and amusing kind, which suits so well the taste of every polished age would meet with ample encouragement in this town. It would vastly contribute to improve the rising taste in this part of the country, by holding out encou- ragement for original efforts, and by combining critical disquisitions with literary and scientific in- vestigation. Numerous attempts have been made to establish a work of such a kind here. So early as the year 1741, the " Publick Register, or Weekly Magazine," printed in London, was republished in this town. But the principal production of this de-- • The names of these papers are the News-Letter, published twice a week ; the Commercial Chronicle, three times, and the Irishman, once. Of these the News-Letter is said to be. with the exception of one. the oldest periodical print in Ireland, having been established in the year 1737. The early publications are extremely curious. On account of the great changes which have since taken place, the fol- lowing passage, at the end of the paper is worth copying: — "Belfast, Printed by Henry and Francis Joy, at the Peacock, in Bridge- street, where all manner of Printing Business is carefully done. Sub- scriptions for this Paper in Belfast 4s. 4d. per annum ; 6s. 6d. in the neighbouring towns ; 7s. 7d. in Ballymoney and Colerain. Adver- tisements of moderate length inserted at 2s. 2d. the first time, and 6=d. each continuance." T,itorary characters. 130 scription was the Belfast Magazine, which continued for several years, and was only abandoned in 1814. Though conducted by men of talents, this work was of too dry and political a cast, either to please uni- versally or to be profitable to the proprietors, and the transitory existence of all those which preceded and followed it, must be ascribed to causes of a si- milar nature. Of literary characters, the most , distinguished, perhaps, which Belfast has produced was Mrs. Eli- zabeth Hamilton, who was born here in the year 1758. This lady, as a moral and entertaining writer, is greatly to be praised. The " Cottagers of Glen- burnie," " Letters on Education," " Modern Phi- losophers," and several other works of considerable celebrity, bear ample testimony to her talents. Except the late Dr. Drennan there are no other names requiring at present particular notice. Dr. Drennan was the author of " Fugitive Pieces," principally in verse, of some merit. He has been more famous however as a political writer, and has been much admired for the steadiness and consist- ency of his principles in that respect, as well as for that bold and nervous style in which he unfolded his sentiments. 131 It must not be omitted, however, to make men- tion of the illustrious Dr. Joseph Black, who. though born in France, received the greater part of his education in this town, to which his family had for a length of time belonged, and where some of his relations are still living. lie arrived here in 1740, being then in the twelfth year of his age. It may be observed in conclusion, that Belfast is conclusion. to Ireland what Glasgow and Liverpool are to their respective kingdoms, and it has actually been com- pared to these places by travellers as well in its ge- neral appearance, as in the manners and sentiments of its inhabitants. The independence which marks their public character is equalled by their readiness to meet the calls of humanity, and they need not fear in any respect of losing by such a comparison. But it would be superfluous to dwell longer on this sub- ject, as it is hoped that the preceding account may convey an adequate notion not only of the present state of Belfast, but of its great and increasing im- portance. STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE PARISH OF BELFAST. Situation, Boundaries, Extent, Climate, Sfe. Situation. Name. iHE Parish of Belfast is situated in the county of Antrim, in the barony of Upper Belfast, and dio- cese of Down and Connor. It was formerly called Shankill, which signifies the Old Church ; and though this name is still preserved, it is far more generally known by its present appellation, which has been gradually acquired with the increasing- po- pulation and importance of the commercial town of Belfast. It is bounded on the north by the parishes of Carnmoney and Templepatrick ; on the east, by the bay of Carrickfergus and the river Lagan ; on the south, also by the Lagan and the parish of Drum- 133 beg ; and on the west, by the parishes of Derri- aghy and Templepatrick. Its form is an irregular F ormand oval, extending nearly eight miles in length, and, in general, from three to four in breadth, though at the two extremities its boundaries are scarcely half a mile asunder. The whole of this parish is in the estate of the Division, &c. Marquis of Donegall. Several of the townlands have English names, as Greencastle, Old Park ; but the Irish derivations are infinitely more nume- rous. Of the latter, many, perhaps nearly the half of all the townlands in the parish, commence with the word bally, which means, in the Irish language, a town or village ; and is often followed by the name of an individual, as Ballymurphy, Ballymac- garry. In other cases again, this universal term precedes some Irish epithet, expressive either of the position or appearance of the place to which it be- longs, or of some striking peculiarity that it pre- sents. This compound of bally, and another word or phrase, however, has most probably arisen from the circumstance of several persons, or even a single fa- mily, collecting together in particular situations in rude and barbarous times. The benefits of society and safety would lead to this ; and as the practice is still continued in mountainous districts, it ap- pears impossible to account in any other manner for the vast number of places in Ireland beginning with 134 the term in question, in many of which, perhaps, scarcely a single house is now to be found. The townlands here are of much greater extent, but also much less valuable, towards the mountains than in the low country. ciimate. There are few parts of the kingdom more subject to rain than this parish. It has been found, how- ever, that the quantity, in the town of Belfast at least, does not exceed that which falls in some other places ; and that the gross amount arises, in gene- ral, more from the number than the violence of the showers. Though the vicinity of three large loughs is generally considered the primary cause of the fre- quent rains that descend here, the high mountains which the parish contains, and with which the clouds are so often in contact, have perhaps a more determinate influence. To these also must be attri- buted the excessive variableness of the weather at all seasons of the year. The humidity of the atmo- sphere, however, does not render the climate un- wholesome, or unfavourable to longevity, as no dis- eases prevail but those which are common also to the neighbouring districts. On the contrary, the air on the mountains is pure and salubrious, which has been fully shewn by the late severe attack of typhus fever, a very small number of persons in this part of the parish having fallen victims to the contagion. 135 The following table of the range of the thermo- meter and barometer for three years, with a regis- ter of the rain gage, will farther elucidate this sub- ject : BAROMETER. THERMOM ETER. RAIN GAGE. TOT A L ! January.-.™ | RAIN GAGE. HIGH. MEAN. LOW. HIGH. MEAN. LOW. I.M'HES. 30.56 29.00 28.97 52 45.77 30 a 004* 1 February „ 30.02 29.63 29.11 50 4a 56 30 4.2S8 March, 30.36 29.92 29.40 ft9 45.83 41 2.H5 # April „ 30.20 2!). S3 29.24 01 53.9' 49 1.370 1^ CI May .10. 24 29.95 2!). 03 07 61.27 ft!) 8.0635 GO r-l June™™™,™ 30.35 29.85 29.39 70 02.69 51 4.0625 ~j X July 30.30 30.0!) 29.15 70 '»)■ 60 2.87 . r~i August 30.10 30.(10 29. n 70 09.75 51 1.875 O September 30. ft!) 89.95 29.88 09 02.10 55 3.125 Tit October™™ 3010 29.90 29. IS 05 53.40 35 4.02.50 November 30.23 29.82 29.11 ft2 11.10 S3 2.0627 r December™ 30.30 29.78 29.20 53 33.9.', 32 3.338 January 30.!)0 29.90 29.15 48 37.80 28 _ 3.5ft February ,. 30.11 29.96 29.50 55 46.56 40 0.363 March , 30.53 2<).!)ft 28.98 58 19.22 29 2.021 April 30.7!) 2!).!)ft 29.20 (9 50.92 46 1.094 co © CM 00 May ™. 30.3!) 29.75 29.28 70 60. 50 5 7735 c» June ™~™ 30..52 30.05 29.40 70 64 62 2.9153 oo July 30. 10 30.01 29.18 70 67.5 58 1.3188 CO August 30. -JO 29.87 29.45 71 05.25 59 5.Z-.S3 li r^ September 30.31 29.99 99.40 70 00.03 51 3.S930 CO October 30.73 29.69 28.0-1 01.5 51.67 46 2.0897 November 30.46 29.95 29.40 ft4 47.30 40 1.6718 December™ 30.33 30. 29.46 55 44.58 34 4,214 January 30.83 29.8!) 29.03 55.5 41.03 sot 2.0831 February „ 30.70 30.31 29.3!) 53 15.33 38 0.19)2 March™ 30138 29.61 29.10, ft5 18.13 30 3.8018 April „™„ 30.35 29.00 29. 1 67 54 51 45 3. 27 29 ■<* May™™™™ 30.33 29.96 29.33 64 57.11 48 1. 1047 © — * June„ . 30.19 30.27 29.80 71. ft 01 52 .0183 GO *M July , „ 30.30 29.97 29,42 72.5 00.1 00 15103 © 00 August 30130 29.98 29.38 73.5 07 50 1.53S9 1— 1 September 30.25" 29.83 29.35 73.5 62 52 4.8151 co October 30.34 29.81 28.81 63.5 56 48 25733 November 30.24 29.37 28.92 59 48 41 5.1508 December™ 30.20 29.34 28.47 55 43 31 4.3775 * On the 27th of this month the rain began at six o'clock P. 51. and in seventeen hours 2,00 inches fell. f From this period the statements are made from the returns of a new rain gage ; and as the former instrument was old, it may per- haps have led to some slight incorrectness in the computations pre- ceding the above dates. f On the 4th of this month the thermometer stood at 16° at nine o'clock A. M. It is to be understood therefore, that all the heights in the foregoing tabic, both of the barometer and thermometer, have been taken at the same regular hour, viz. each dav at two o'clock, P. M. 13G sou. The soil of this parish is naturally fertile. That tract of country along the banks of the Lagan is most deserving of attention ; and for its uncommon beauty and fertility has not escaped observation even in a county survey. It comprehends the. two townlands of Upper and Lower Malone, and con- sists of a ridge of low hills, commencing at Drum- bridge, the southern extremity of the parish, and terminating within about half a mile of Belfast ; bounded on one side by the vale in which the river Lagan flows, and on the other by the Falls mea- dows. The prevailing soil is a rich sandy loam, with a substratum of clay. They are both of a reddish tinge, and fitted, with proper knowledge, for the production of some of the best and most profitable crops which an Irish soil can possibly yield. The small gentle hills, rising in continual but irregular succession, forming the prominent and peculiar feature of this district, are not composed of the same fine sand, but of a species of coarse gravel, which is also interspersed more or less through every part of the parish. In the Falls meadows, which are low in situation, and nearer the mountains, the soil is chiefly formed of a black vegetable mould, which yet in many places approaches to the consis- tency of bog. This however soon disappears ; and along the base of these high hills, which extend from one end of the parish to the other, the most general characteristic of the soil is clay, not however A\ith- 137 out frequent traces of that dark coloured earth which is found in the Falls. On the mountains also the clay is frequently seen, and even there it is often rich, deep, and occasionally intermixed with a strong stony gravel ; but on most of them, parti- cularly towards their summits, the light and boggy soil predominates, evidently capable, in many places, of considerable improvement. Surface, Mountains, Mineralogy, Sfc. Before a proper account can be given of the ge- surface. neral appearance and mineralogy of this parish, it will be necessary to describe its surface, together with the condition of the mountains which it con- tains. Its surface then might, without much inac- curacy, be compared to that of the kingdom of Scot- land, as to its division into Highlands and Low- lands. The extent too occupied by each, is perhaps nearly equal, a diversity that not only renders its general appearance, in every respect, more varied, but forms the means of communicating that beauty and ruggedness for which this district is so pecu- liarly attractive. The lower part is a fertile and beautiful tract of country, extending along the ri- ver Lagan and the bay of Carrickfergus, the whole length of the parish. Its breadth from the Lagan to the base of the mountains is upwards of two 138 miles, and from the sea to the same natural boun- dary, generally one mile. This, however, will per- haps be considered rather an arbitrary distinction, the ascent commencing almost from the beach, on one side, and the Falls road on the other. The sur- face even of this low ground presents different va- rieties. The townlands of Upper and Lower Ma- lone along the river Lagan are composed of a se- ries of gentle hills, already noticed in the descrip- tion of the soil, which bestow on it a most pleasing and singular appearance. The Falls meadows, which lie nearer the mountains, are low and marshy; being in winter entirely deluged by the rains, and principally employed in raising hay, for which they are well adapted. From the appearance of this part of the parish, there is every reason to believe, that at one period it has been an inlet of the sea. Nu- merous banks of oyster, cockle and other marine shells, sometimes of extraordinary size, are found in these meadows. In the immediate neighbour- hood of the mountains, that irregularity of sur- face observed at the Lagan is again perceivable ; though from its inferior cultivation, it presents not the same rich and delightful scenery. The swells indeed are much larger, and continue increasing to the mountains, which at length rise very abruptly. The Black mountain is most remarkable for the abruptness of its ascent, the inequalities at Squire's hill and Mount Gilbert being rather furrows in the 139 lower parts of these mountains, than any characte- ristic of the surface. That part of the parish be- tween the sea and the Cave hill is likewise uneven and irregular, and is bounded from the town of Bel- fast to Greencastle, by a steep bank twenty or thirty feet in height, which runs for this distance parallel with the bay, and is in some places only a few yards distant from it. Most of the handsome coun- try seats along the shore are built on this bank, which extends, however, much farther than the ex- tremity of the parish. Its origin cannot be well explained ; but it is generally supposed to have been an ancient sea mark. That district bordering on the parishes of Derriaghy, Templepatrick and Carumoney, is of very considerable elevation, being the descending ridges of the Black mountain, Glen hill and Cave hill. It partakes of all the cha- racters of a mountainous country ; and, except in that part which adjoins Carnmoney, where the fields are well cultivated, the houses substantial and com- fortable, is in a much less improving condition than any other part of the parish. The mountains extend the whole length of the M 0iuit aii parish, forming a very extensive chain, in some places upwards of two miles in breadth. They compose the principal part of a connected line of hills, which stretches from Colin mountain to the Knockagh, 140 Black mountain Devis. Squire's hill. Cave hill. The Black mountain is the most southward of those in this parish, and separated from Colin, which principally belongs to Derriaghy, by a deep and beautiful valley. It forms an unbroken range of about three miles in length, of which the highest part is 1040 feet above the level of Belfast Lough. From the northern side of this hill, after passing a level tract for upwards of a mile, there rises a sum- mit of considerably greater elevation, called Devis, which is 1475 feet above the sea, an altitude that is only surpassed by two mountains in this county. At the distance of a few miles the commanding height to which Devis towers above the Black mountain is very conspicuous, an effect which is not so distinctly seen on a near approach. An extensive high tract called Wolf hill connects, in a semicircular form, the northern part of Devis with the next elevation, which is denominated the Squire's hill. The road from Belfast to Antrim passes over the former of these, which is cultivated to the top. Squire's hill is 1170 feet in height, and between it and the Cave hill is a ra- vine of great beauty, fertilized by one of those serpen- tine rivulets which nature has here so plentifully pro- duced. Mac Aits' Fort, which is on the summit of the Cave hill, is 1064 feet above the level of the sea, though this mountain is by far the most picturesque of the whole number. 141 With the exception of Devis, these mountains are all in one front range, and to the mineralogist few spots, perhaps in the world, afford a greater variety of appearances within so limited a space. There is a part of Devis, called Mount Gilbert, which is GUtert. nearly in a regular and corresponding line with the hills already mentioned. It is generally looked upon, however, as a continuation of that mountain, though the line of separation is very distinctly marked. The back part of the Cave hill receives the [name of Colin -ward, while between it and Squire's hill stands another mountain of nearly equal elevation, called Hightown hill. Bordering on the j^ htown parish of Templepatrick is a very long ridge called Glen hill. The mountains, however, which are situ- Gienhm. ated in the more inland parts of the parish are en- tirely incapable of exciting that uncommon interest which so greatly distinguishes the north eastern sides of those that front the sea and the river. The region of rock has disappeared, and is succeeded by a soil, sometimes of dangerous softness. It is cer- tainly, therefore, one cause of the superiority in agri- culture which the former has acquired over the lat- ter, that the limestone soil is better qualified for such improvement than the moory ground which so frequently occurs at Glen hill, and the other moun- tains in that direction. tains. 142 From looking, at the map of the parish, only a very imperfect notion can be formed of the real state of the numerous mountains which it contains. Appearance, 1° some places there are levels and vallies of very soil, &c. of * considerable extent, producing abundantly a coarse natural grass ; in other places bogs of great size and depth, which present a wild and dreary ap- pearance. The summit of Devis is entirely com- posed of a deep turf bog. The Black mountain has in general a firmer surface, and is much more steep than any of the others. Squire's hill and. Cave hill are more sloping in their ascent, and the former, unless where under culture, is extremely productive in a rich and valuable grass. Generally speaking, however, they are all, at least towards their summits, bleak and uncultivated. The Cave hill, when canopied by a serene and cloudless sky, is the most beautiful mountain in the parish. The wild thyme grows luxuriantly on its sides, which are neither dry nor marshy, but in most places, ex- cept where imbrowned with heath, smooth aud ver- dant. All these mountains produce vast quan- tities of heath, generally of a low and bushy growth. Setting aside, however, their mineralogi- cal attractions, and the sublime prospects which ar- rest the eye from their summits, the Black mountain and Devis, which arc the principal, afford little else to repay for the wearisome ascent. But though they offer scarcely a single relic of antiquity, and 143 cannot gratify a taste for rural beauty, their soft and heathy soil, their furrows of unvarying bareness, will seem to many observers highly fruitful in serious speculation, and well deserving the attention of agricultural projectors. * The ffeolosrical structure of this range of hills Geological structure. is the same with that of the whole coast of Antrim, of which it forms a continuation. From Macgilli- gan's promontory, near Lough Foyle, to Colin, the same rocks and mountain structure occur with lit- tle variation. Around Belfast, the best places for observation are the ravines and rocky cliffs on the hills, the banks of the small rivers which descend from them, the quarries of limestone and basalt which are wrought, and particularly the whole ex- tent of Colin glen. In the following sketch of the mineralogy of this district, the various rocks and strata are described in the order in which they are apparently placed, one above the other, beginning from the uppermost on the summit of the hills, and proceeding down- wards towards the bed of the river and lough. I. Basalt, under various aspects, forms the top of Basalt the range, and appears as a cap or covering of great * For the information on the Mineralogy of the parish from this place to the end of the section, I am indebted to Doctor Wil- liam Knight, Professor of Natural Philsosophy in Belfast College. 144 thickness. On the Cave hill it is nearly three hun- dred, and on Devis about nine hundred feet in depth. The rocks called Basalt or Trap possess several varieties of structure, and are distinguished by dif- ferent names. The most perfect and close grained Trap appears in the form of regular columns, as in one spot below the south west side of the Cave hill, where they are laid at a small angle of inclination towards the mass of the mountain, and approach in size and regularity to those at the Giants Causeway. The Greenstone of these pillars is constituted of Fel- spar and Hornblende. Where the columnar struc- ture is obscure or disappears, the rock is seen in se- parate masses or concretions which decompose in spherical or rounded shapes like the coats of an oni- on, the external parts decaying first, and disclosing a harder central mass. The Iron which all basaltic rocks contain, seems to contribute to this disinte- gration. The soil which is thus formed is remark- able for fertility in all countries where it occurs. On the top of Squire's and Cave hill the rock is called Greystone ; on the summit of Devis it is Clink- stone Porphyry. When the minerals included in the rock become numerous, the aspect changes, assumes brownish hues, and has the names of Porphyritic Greenstone and Amygdaloid. All these pass by ra- pid transitions into one another, and into the more 145 compact and purer Greenstone. On the Cave hill and Devis the chief enclosures are Calcareous spar, Arragonite, Green earth, Chalcedony, several kinds of Zeolite, particularly fibrous and pulverulent Me- sotype, Analcime, cubical Zeolite or Cubicite, and more rarely Stillbite and Chabasie. The nodules of Zeolite are often so abundant on the Cave hill as to form nearly one half of the Amygdaloid. Cavities or air holes of a small size, and often lined with Green earth or minute crystallisations, are also abun- dant. Specimens of Mesotype of great beauty, but small, may frequently be found ; and the Chalce- dony is of so good a quality as to be capable of being cut into sealstones or other ornaments. The red clay or ochreous basalt of Doctor Ri- Reaciay. chardson,* which forms so extensive beds at the grand precipices of the Giants Causeway, and which is generally supposed to be an altered basalt, is found on the Cave hill but in a sparing quantity, and generally in those thin seams which are seen in one part near the caves, and a little farther to the eastward below the Whin Dyke which there tra- verses the cliff. aw * The prospect which Doctor Richardson has given of the Cave hill in the Transactions of the Royal Irish Academy, vol. D, p. 43, will be found on inspection to be altogether incorrect. 146 whin Dykes. The Basaltic rock also occurs in this district un- der another aspect. Long- branches proceed from the large masses of the mountains, and cutting through all the strata and beds of rock below, ap- pear as if bursting through them, or filling up fissures or rents in their substance. These are the Whin Dykes, which extend in some directions for miles, and are as remarkable for their structure, as for the changes that they produce in the rocks which they traverse in so striking a manner. Many observations have been made upon these Dykes, of which the following are the principal : — Princi j 1. They cut the strata at very high angles, or are onWm! almost vertical. 2. They are all nearly parallel to each other, and to those on the coast at the Giants Causeway. 3. Their bearing or direction is from south east to north west nearly. 4. The thickness of those around Belfast is from six to twenty-four feet. 5. They do not send off branches like metallic veins. 6. As they do not appear to converge, no estimate can be formed as to the depth at which they terminate. Although their depth is unknown, yet some of them have been observed, on the Antrim coast, for three and four hundred feet of perpendicular height. It therefore becomes probable, that those which are 147 seen on both shores of Belfast Lough have a con- nection with those which are visible on the moun- tains, though from the covering of soil it is not easy to trace it. As the Whin Dykes pass through the basaltic rocks themselves, as well as through the subjacent strata, there has arisen an opi- nion that they are portions of a great mass of rock which is placed both below and above all the other beds, and which forms nearly the whole of the county of Antrim. But the proofs of this it is unnecessary to give in an account which is intended to describe only the principal appearances. One of the chief facts in support of it is, that the beds of limestone, clay and sandstone always dip towards the moun- tains, and thus on going round these, they dip to- wards all points of the compass. * Where the Whin Dykes fill up rents in the basal- tic rock itself, their appearance is less distinct than where they are seen cutting strata of a different substance from their own. At the Cave hill, a Curiam appearance of Cave hill. ter, a dyke crosses the basalt, and is recognized without difficulty in the bed of the rivulet. It splits easily into very small pillars, which are chiefly of three and four sides, and from an inch to a foot in length. This forms the most regular structure * Around Devis, Cave hill, &c. the angle of dip of the limestone is about J0°. Wood Coal or Surturbrand. 148 of dyke, and the small pillars lie in a horizontal di- rection. Fkom Devis three of these Dykes descend near each other into the plain below. Where they cut through the limestone, they change it from a chalky to a granular aspect, like that of loaf sugar, and ren- der it highly phosphorescent. The flints near the junction are also altered in appearance, assuming light yellow and grey tints. These changes are seen best at Doon or Allen's ravine, on the middle of the Black mountain. On the banks of Colin water, above the glen, a Dyke passes through clay and hardens it ; and a similar appearance is seen on the Forth river near Messrs. Stevenson's manufac- tory. The Whin Dykes seen on the beach between Cul- tra and Holywood pass through the red sandstone, and appear to be continued under the bed of the Lough to the opposite shore, near Macedon. Above Carrickfergus, on the Woodburn river, there are al- so two Dykes. Pieces of Wood Coal, (Lignite or Surturbrand) have been occasionally found on the hills above Bel- fast, and have given rise to several attempts to dis- cover mines of coal. Borings have been carried on ?A several times, but hitherto without success. The 149 last trial was made on the banks of the Mile water, above Jennymount. At Ballymacrevan, half way between Glenavy and Lough Neagh, two shafts were sunk to the depth of sixty feet to obtain the Wood Coal ; but the design was not continued. This Wood Coal is the same with that which has been quarried for some years at Port Noffer and other parts of the Giants Causeway. It is found there in seams of from two inches to five feet in thickness. The texture of the wood remains dis- tinct, and is like that of fir. As no coal but only this altered wood has been found near Belfast, it is not probable that there is anv deposit of true coal in r J A No deposit of this district. This opinion is strengthened by the Bdfes't 1 near existence of so large a tract of basaltic rocks, and the confinement of the limestone and sandstone strata to a comparatively small extent. The lime- stone, too,of this district is of a nature very different from that which has been hitherto found in connec- tion with extended coal countries, and even in the mine at Ballycastle, the formation of true coal is lo- cal, broken, and perhaps nearly exhausted. II. The Limestone, which is placed immediately Limestone. below the basaltic rock, and in contact with it, is of a peculiar kind, and is universally acknowledged to differ from the chalk of the south of England, only by its superior hardness, while it corresponds with 150 it in other characters, and in the nature of the flints and organic remains which it contains. The line of junction between the Limestone and Basalt is generally irregular. The thickness of the beds of the former rock is between two and three its elevation hundred feet. The elevation of the upper part of above the sea. this mass above the sea is various at different places ; in Colin glen and on the eastern slope of Devis it is about 500 feet ; on the Cave hill 768 ; on Carnmoney hill and the Knockagh, considerably lower. At the Whitehead it nearly keeps the level of the sea, and as it proceeds around the shore to- wards the Causeway, is seen in many spots emerg- ing from the waves. itscoiour,&c. The Limestone is either perfectly white or very slightly tinged with yellow. Thin veins of calca- reous spar traverse its substance, and are most fre- quent in the lower beds. Small nodules of iron py- rites are a rarer occurrence^ but the most remarka- ble enclosure is a great number of nodules of flint, which are arranged in regular horizontal beds, placed at distances generally between two and three feet from each other. In the lowest beds very few flints are observed ; in the highest they are most abun- dant, and at the top or junction are collected toge- ther in a confused manner along with the red clay or ochre, which forms the bottom of the basaltic rocks. 151 The flints are of the usual appearance, mostly of dark grey and black colours. Where the Whin Dykes pass near them, they assume light yellow and ash- coloured tints. Many of a fine red hue are also found, chiefly in the beds that are nearest the top. Others are distinguished by peculiar shapes, indicat- ing that they have existed formerly as organic Mol- lusca, chiefly of the genus Alcyonia. The largest nodules, known by the name of Paramoudra,* are from ten to twenty-four inches in length, and have also been supposed to be an organic remain, particu- larly from the mode in which they are seen connect- ed in a quarry near Moira, where they are arranged in a kind of chain. The chief organic remains in the chief organic limestone quarries around Belfast are the following, most of which occur also in the flints : — Belem- nites of the true kind, very common, and mostly pe- trified by calcareous spar, more rarely by flint. Echinus scutatus, and E. cidaris mamillata. Te- rebratula vulgaris, and T. sulcata. Ammonites, rare, but of very large size. III. The Limestone rests on the Mulatto, a rock Mulatto of which the constitution is much varied in dif- ferent parts. It is generally a congeries of grains of sand in a cement of the white limestone, having disseminated through its substance many small • The derivation of this word is unknown. The workmen in the quarries give them the expressive name of xvig blocks. remains in the limestone. 152 specks of green earth. But the siliceous matter is sometimes not a tenth part of the rock ; while in other places, large nodules of quartz give it the as- pect of a conglomerate or plumpudding stone. It is often traversed by compressed veins of calcareous spar, and may be found in beds of various thick- ness. It is seen best in Colin glen and at White- well quarry. Corresponds with the green Sand- stone of England, The Mulatto corresponds with the green sand- stone found in England under the chalk.* It con- tains many enclosed fossils, among which the fol- lowing are found in Colin Glen : — Belemnites, Os- trea Crista Galli, Ostrea Edulis, Area Glycimeris, Pecten Varia, Anomia Gryphus, Mytilus Crista Galli, Mytilus" Lithophagus, Dentalium hexangu- lum ; and some unascertained species of Echinus, Venus, and Cardium. Rlueish Limestone. IV. The last bed rests immediately on a coarse blueish limestone, impregnated with much clay, and alternately with thin strata of slate clay. The thick- ness of the whole is variable, and in Colin glen, where the best section of it may be seen, is in one place nearly thirty feet. It is the same rock which in England receives the name of Lias Limestone. At Colin glen the fissures in it sometimes contain the substance called mountain leather, a variety of * The name of Mulatto is derived from its speckled appearance. 153 Asbestns. It abounds in petrifactions, particularly ^ u I ^. llac . Ammonites and Gryphites, which, with the remains of joints of Pentacrinites, often constitute a very great part of its slaty texture. V. Under the Lias Limestone, and lower down, Marie. on the banks of the Colin, Forth, and Mile water rivers, are found thick beds of red and variegated Marie, containing much clay, and including beds of gypsum or sulphat of lime. The latter always oc- curs in the form of alabaster, often of a delicately Alabaster. white fibrous structure, and sometimes in perfectly transparent crystals, or Selenite. The beds of clay vary in the vicinity of Belfast from forty to one hundred feet in thickness. Salt springs occur in them, particularly near Carrickfergus ; but no strata of rock salt have been found. VI. The rock which appears lowermost is Sand- Sandstone stone, of which the general colour is reddish, often varied with grey tints, and containing layers and round masses of clay. The thickness of the Sand- stone is considerable. It has been pierced for wells to the depth of eighty or a hundred, and for coals to five hundred feet. It may be considered as the rock which forms the greater part of the valley, both of the Lough below Belfast, and of the river above as far as Moira. In the hill of Scrabo, this Sandstone is v 154 wrought extensively at the White Quarry, where the layers of clay often bear impressions like those of compressed reeds. From this intermixture of a soft- er substance the stone becomes of inferior qua- lity.* Allurial strata. VII. Where the other strata appear near the sur- face, they are covered by beds of Alluvial materials, which are chiefly a coarse gravel. For some miles on the banks of the Lagan, particularly above and below Shaw's bridge, these present undulations of remarkable depth and steepness which give rise to beautiful varieties of scenery. On the shore of Belfast Lough, particularly near Carrickfergus, are found numbers of hazel nuts, of which the kernels are changed into calcareous spar, while the woody substance of the shells remains un- altered. They do not differ in appearance from re- cent nuts. They are found in connection with turf, and have been supposed to indicate the remains of * It bas been doubted whetber the sandstone in the county of Down be the same with that on the Antrim side. The sandstone of Scrabo, however, can be traced to Newtownards.and is evidently of the same nature with that of the valley of the Lagan. On the Down side, it extends to Holywood and Cultra ; on the Antrim to Wood- burn, and as far as Castle Chichester in Island Mages. Any at- tempts, however, which have hitherto been made to quarry this va- luable stone in the Belfast mountains have not been prosecuted. The last trial was made at Ringan's Point, on the shore of the lough, nearly two miles from Belfast, only about a year ago, but it has since been given up. 155 an ancient forest, submerged at a former era like those lately explored on the coasts of Lincoln and Somerset shires. In the alluvial soil around Belfast no remains of the ancient elk, so common in other parts of Ireland, have yet been discovered, as far as is known. The general nature of the Down side of the envi- Geoiogkai nature ot the rons of Belfast may be briefly stated. The chief ^"Loughl rock in that county extends over large tracts, and receives the name of Grey Wacke, and when slaty, as it frequently is, of Grey Wacke shistus. The latter covers a great part of the Ards and Castle- reagh ; and when easily separated into thin plates, is wrought extensively for roofing slate. At C ul- tra a coarse variety of drawing slate, and flint slate, occurs in this rock, along with a limestone, contain- ing magnesia. Sulphuret of lead, accompanied by white Sulphate of Barytes, is found at Conligg hill, between Bangor and Newtownards, and a mine was wrought there but has been long abandoned. •_,"* v._w^ ~«v # .~o ^^i. *w« & The Lagan forms a pretty exact boundary be- tween these different beds of rock, in the counties of Down and Antrim. Some Grey Wacke shistus is however found on the western banks of that river ; and on the other side Scrabo is a basaltic eminence of 133 feet in height, where the Greenstone which is 156 seen on the top, and for one hundred and fifty feet on its slope, does not differ from that on the Antrim mountains, although the hills immediately around it are of Grey Wacke slate. A large Whin Dyke from the basaltic rock of Scrabo, cuts the sandstone in the quarry below, presenting appearances similar to those which have been already described. * Villages, Houses, Roads, Bridges, Waters, fyc. villages. Except Belfast, this parish contains no towns or villages of any consequence. There are indeed se- veral straggling hamlets, which, in other situations, might merit particular attention, but in this popu- lous district, where some of the roads are almost con- tinued streets,' they can scarcely be considered wor- thy of a very minute account. When these houses, however, are more than usually contiguous, they may properly be termed villages, and as such must not be omitted. On the Carrickfergus road, about three miles from Belfast, is a village called White- house, remarkable as the place where King William and Duke Schombergmet in 1G90 ; and distinguished at present by an appearance of uncommon industry and comfort, greatly to be attributed to the exten- * The only information, it is probable, which can be added to the foregoing scientific account of the Geology of Belfast parish and its neighbourhood, is to notice the traces of manganese discovered some time ago near Dunmuny. The place was examined by several scientific gentlemen, and wrought for some time. It wa«. found, bow- ever, to be of an in pure quality, though, perhaps, it is still worthy, and will probably be the subject, of future perseverance. 157 sivc cotton print works in its neighbourhood. Whitehouse contains a Lancasterian school, but being just at the limits of this parish, belongs with the exception of a very few houses to that of Carn- money. Less than a quarter of a mile nearer Belfast, and on the same road, is another village of smaller extent, but still deserving some notice on account of the vast quantity of limestone which is conveyed from it both to Scotland and the opposite coast of Down. The place is called the Limestones, signi- ficant of this circumstance. On the Shankill or An- trim road, and at the distance of one mile from Bel- fast, there is a collection of thirty or forty cabins, which may however be nearly considered a suburb of the town, being now almost united to it by the great number of houses which have been lately built be- tween the two places. A cluster of very neat and comfortable cottages on the Falls road has received the name of Anderson's Town, forming in its ap- pearance a striking contrast with the village of Haiinahstown, which is situated five miles from Bel- fast, in the valley between the Black mountain and Colin. This place, which contains a small Roman Catholic Chapel, was till lately an assemblage of wretched cabins ; but it is now, as well as the ad- jacent land, undergoing great and rapid improve- ments. In different parts of the parish, especially towards the mountains, there will be found many groups of cottages, often in lonely and picturesque 158 situations, too insignificant to have acquired names, and too numerous to be here particularised. The numerous bleach greens and cotton works in the vi- cinity of Belfast are generally surrounded with houses, for the convenience of those who are em- ployed in them. Many of these are of very consi- derable extent, greatly contributing to the populous and thriving appearance of those parts of the coun- try in which they occur. Housesoftbe The wealth and importance of the gentry of this parish may very justly be inferred from the number of handsome country seats which it contains. These are most numerous on the road which runs close by the bay from Belfast to Carrickfergus ; and which presents, on both sides, objects of great and varied attraction. They are all built upon commanding eminences, and from their situation, from the plant- ing, and other improvements with which they are surrounded, add much to the beauty of one of the most admired districts in this county. The finest house on this road, or perhaps in the parish, is Park- mcunt, built by the late Mr. Cairns, on or near the site of a residence, or hunting lodge, formerly be- longing to the Donegall family. Low Wood, Mr. Robinson's ; Mount Vernon, the late Mr. Adair's ; Fort William, Mr, Langtry's ; Grove, Mr. Simms ; Greenmount, Mr. Bell's, are likewise extremely conspicuous, as much for their beauty as for the fine 159 and ornamental situations in which they are built, many of the proprietors having displayed very great taste both in their houses and enclosures. On the New Lodge Road, there are three fine houses, but rather in a confined extent; Old Park, Mr. Lyons'; ■ , Mr. Crawford's ; Lodge, Mr. Magee's. On the Shankill or Antrim road there are also several country seats well deserving observation. The prin- cipal are Wheatfield, Mr. Blair's ; and Glenbank, Mr. Grogan's. The proprietors of the several bleachgreens and cotton works in the parish have most frequently houses attached to them. This is the case on the Falls, where Springfield, Mr. Ste- venson's ; Suffolk, Mr. M'Canee's, and Glenville, the late Mr. Stouppe's, are particularly observable, as much for the appearance of the edifices, as the number of outhouses, (chiefly employed in the prepa- ration of linen or cotton,) and the many other striking improvements which surround them. Though the houses on the Malone road are perhaps scarce- ly so numerous, nor the views so varied as those on the Shore, the richness of the country, and the superior cultivation, make up the deficiency. On the latter, the houses are built in the mo- dern style; but in Malone, if we may judge from the outward appearance, at least of some of them, and their long straight avenues, they must have been standing a considerable time. The following, how- 160 ever, are in general new, and most to be admired for their extent and elegance : Strandmills, Mr. Black's ; New Forge, Mr. Russel's ; Malone House, Mr. Legge's ; Ballydrain, Mr. Younghus- band's ; and on the Falls, Becchmount, Mr. Vance's.* With respect, however, to the houses, it must be mentioned, that although those which have been selected are certainly the principal, all the roads in the neighbourhood of Belfast, both public and private, display a succession of country resi- dences evincing more or less taste and beauty, but affording ample proofs, not only of the wealth of this great commercial and manufacturing parish, but of the manner in which that wealth is often and pro- perly employed. Farmhouses, The farm-houses in this place partake of the com- fort so perceivable and so gratifying in those of the * Cianmore, Mr. TempletonV, is remarkable as being most pro- bably the oldest house in the parish, having been built, it is said, in the reign of Elizabeth. It is one of the places at which King Wil- liam stopped in his route through this country; and though it is ge- nerally thought that he remained here a night, there is no positive tradition, or other testimony, to countenance this opinion. It is, how- ever, by no means impossible, as, until very lately, a bed of a gorgeous and stately appearance was shown, and said to have been that on which the King reposed. Mr. Eccles, the owner of the house at that time, and the great grandfather of Dr. Black, the celebrated chemist, on being asked what compensation he would accept for his hospita- lity, resigned any favour of this kind to his son, who was accordingly presented with a considerable situation in the Custom House of Dub- lin. The only relic which is now preserved of the royal visit, is a jug of earthen ware of antique workmanship, out of which the King drank. 16] gentry. They are usually low, and thatched with straw, hut at the same time white, clean and com- modious. Those in Malone, which are chiefly oc- cupied by the descendants of English settlers, are particularly admired for their extreme beauty and neatness. Many of them are accompanied with small gardens or orchards, and certainly form one of the principal attractions of a district which is pos- sessed of many great, but almost indescribable charms. Though the appearance of the houses along the public road will prove, in most cases, the truth of such statements, the private roads in Upper and Lower Malone, in the neighbouring parish of Drumbeg, and in great part of Derriaghy, are in- habited by a race of people, denoting not only in the appearance of their habitations, and in their names, a different origin from their neighbours, but inherit- ing a marked disposition for cleanliness and com- fort, which forms one of the best and most distin- guishable characteristics in the peasantry of a coun- try. Whether it is to be attributed to the influence of this example, it is certain that many parts of the Falls, as well as the other districts in the vicinity of Malone, display abundant proofs of similar inclina- tions. There are great numbers of farm houses in these places, which, for neatness and even elegance, might probably be put in competition with any other dwellings, occupied by the same class of people in the x 102 most improved part of these kingdoms . Much of this is certainly to be ascribed to that taste for planting which has become so general ; but due praise must also be given to the desire so strongly manifested of enjoy- ing, together with personal comfort, the admiration of the passing traveller. Though the farm houses in the higher parts of the parish generally assume a less inviting aspect, there arc many along the base of the mountains which would lose nothing by com- parison. They also are white, clean, and well en- closed ; and the proprietors of such houses always appear to be in a more prosperous condition than their less careful neighbours. cottagw Under the head of cottages are included die houses of those who labour for the more extensive farmers. These are numerous, and few, or none of them, at least in the low country, in so miserable a condition as those which are frequently to be found even in this county. On the mountains, indeed, they are often wretched hovels, but in Ma lone and the other improved parts of the parish, equal in many instances, except in point of size, the farm houses already described. Some of them are formed of clay, but these are old ; for in this parish, where stones are so extremely plentiful, the use of such a material for building has been entirely abandoned. They, therefore, who form their opinion of all Ire- laud from the accounts which have been written of 163 the wretched abodes of the peasantry in (he south, where one apartment will accommodate a swarm of miserable inmates, with a pig or a cow, if rich enough to possess such a treasure, and one entrance serve for the admission of the pure air, and the egress of the curling smoke, will experience a complete, no doubt a pleasing disappointment, to find here not only a total reverse among the most indigent cot- ters, but in the farm houses a nearer approach to the condition of those in a neighbouring kingdom, occupied by that great bulwark of the state, the yeo- manry of England, than any other part of this coun- try it is probable can exhibit. It is also proper to remark, that the houses of every kind are so blend- ed, that it might, in many eases, be difficult to as- certain to which of the foregoing classes any one in particular should properly be referred. The cot- tager of this district might boast of a better habita- tion than the farmer of another parish, and the far- mer might display a prouder mansion than many who receive the title of country squires. Few places in Ireland contain finer roads than Road* this parish, whether we consider their original struc- ture, the excellent repair in which they are kept, or the beautiful scenery with which they are adorned The M alone or Lisburn road is most distinguished lor all these excellencies. Not being sufficiently le- vel, however, for general convenience, or the in 164 creasing trade of the country, a new road, which completely obviates these disadvantages, has lately been made between Belfast and Lisburn. It is nearer the mountains than the former, and continues almost three miles within the limits of this parish. The Carrickfergus or Shore road, which runs along the bay, is likewise, in every respect, extremely com- modious. The Falls and Shankill roads (at least so far as they extend in this parish) are also, though near the mountains, fine and spacious. They are all furnished with footways, an accommodation, which, though of late introduction, yields to none in point of utility. For the excellent condition in which these roads are kept, we are, in a great mea- sure, indebted to those extensive quarries of whin stone found near the mountains, than which a better or more durable substance could not possibly be pro- cured. A kind of slaty stone was formerly used for this purpose, which from its softness frequently ren- dered the roads in winter almost impassable. No such inconvenience attends the whin stone, so that it is now justly and universally preferred.* The private roads in the lower parts of the parish are composed of the same material, and are equally ser- viceable. Though those on the mountains, too, have * This account must seem the more striking, when it is known, that so lately as the year 1787, on an application for the establish- ment of a mail coach between Belfast and Dublin, an answer was re- turned, that such a design, in the present state of the roads, would b$ impracticable. 165 similar advantages, their steepness renders them less capable of improvement, and they remain, and perhaps will long continue, rugged and irregular. There is scarcely any full grown timber in this Wood parish, but a vast quantity of young plantation. It preserves, however, several evident proofs that it was once, particularly the mountains, overgrown with trees. Remains of such a kind are occasionally found in the bogs, and many of the old inhabitants remember groves of considerable extent, where not a vestige of such at present exists. It is not many years since there was a large plantation of old ash trees at the Deer Park on the Cave hill. There was formerly an extensive wood, principally consisting of oaks, reaching from May's market, in Belfast, to the Lagan, and along the bank of that river to the present New Bridge.* The gentry here have a great and laudable desire for planting ; in conse- quence of which the parish is extremely well stocked with young and flourishing trees, In the low coun- try, there is scarcely a house, even among those which might be considered as belonging to the in- ferior classes of the people, which is not protected or embellished, more or less, with the tall ash or the hum- ble sallow ; and the inhabitants of all ranks seem to * Many of the old inhabitants recollect this wood, which was prin- cipally remarkable for the great number of swans which built their nests in it. 166 be fully sensible of the advantages of a system which unites usefulness with ornament. With the farmers in the mountainous parts of the parish, there are too many exceptions to this ; a much greater number undoubtedly than in the course of a few years may justly be anticipated. Bridges. Long or Great Bridge of Belfast. The most important article under the head of bridges is the celebrated Long Bridge of Belfast. Its foundation was laid in 1682 ; but, on account of the war, and other causes, it was not entirely finished for several years after that time. In 1689, the bridge was much weakened by Duke Schomberg's cannon being drawn over it; seven of the arches fell in 1692 ; and a few years after it was farther injured by a ship which was violently driven against the piers. After having undergone proper repairs, and to prevent the recurrence of this last accident, an or- der was issued by the corporation of Belfast, that no vessel should lie at anchor to the southward of the dock, and that such as were stationed north of it should be well moored, on pain of a penalty of forty shillings each tide. The Long Bridge cost, accord- ing to some accounts, c£7000 ; but from other state- ments the expencc of its erection is made to amount to o£l2,000. It has been conjectured, that this lat- ter sum includes the rebuilding of the seven arches. Its length is 2562 feet, 1722 of which are dead work. The number of arches is twenty-one. Se- 167 veral of these have been closed, and the others are extremely unequal in size. Very considerable sums have at different times been laid on the county for keeping in repair the " Great Bridge of Belfast," as it is styled in the Grand Jury Book.* From whatever cause it has arisen also, great doubts have long been entertained and expressed as to its stabi- lity. In the year 1744, Mr. Harris speaks of the injuries which it had sustained from the winter floods, and the danger which attended several large chasms in the arches. By another surveyor in 1817 a similar account was made of its dilapidated con- dition, and a very general belief of its insecurity was occasioned. From a still later examination, how- ever, it was reported that these statements were incorrect, and that more danger is to be appre- hended from the extreme narrowness of this bridge, (which is only twenty -two feet wide) than from any other cause. To remedy this inconvenience, it was proposed that a rail way on each side for foot passengers should be made. The committee ap- pointed by the respective grand juries for carrying this design into effect made a report, that it would be expedient to postpone such an improvement for a * From the same authority it appears, that there were formerty stairs at the Long Bridge. In 1712, when mentioning several alte- rations, it is added ; "and that the stairs, or landing phce, on the north side of the west end of the said bridge he preserved, as they were built at the charge of the two conntys, as they now stand, with liberty to repair the same, in like manner as the side walls afore- said." 168 time ; but that the other repairs, such as raising the pavement and strengthening the arches, should be proceeded on. It seems, however, to be the more general opinion, that a new bridge is required, and various statements and arguments have been brought forward in the public papers to shew the necessity of such a measure. Two plans, one for £ 17,000 and the other for £ 23, 000, have been submitted to the public, and from the comparatively reasonable nature of these estimates, it is probable that a new and more elegant structure may shortly be erected, as those who have the power are understood to have taken the subject into their consideration. Ndw Bridge. The New Bridge also crosses the Lagan at Cro- mac, about a mile from Belfast, and has not been standing more than eight years. It consists of se- ven arches, and presents from a distance rather a handsome appearance. It was very tedious in the construction, several arches, at different periods, having fallen ; and another bridge, which stood in the same place, fell altogether some years ago. Shaw's Bridge. Shaw's Bridge likewise crosses the Lagan three miles from Belfast, and is much stronger than those which are commonly found on private roads. This bridge is of some antiquity, and was built with the ruins of an old castle in the neighbourhood. There Salt-water Bridge, &c. 160 is also a traditional account, that it was carried away by a great flood in the year 1709. Besides these there are several others of less im- portance. There is one of three arches over the BlackstafF, on the Malone road, near Belfast ; another on the same river at the Paper Mill ; three or four on the Falls, and several on the Car- rickfergus and Shankill roads. The Salt-water bridge in Sandy Row, Belfast, is, perhaps, the oldest in the parish. So early as the year 1717, a presentment was made by the Grand Jury, for building buttresses " to support the Salt-water bridge, near Belfast, and for other repairs about the said bridge." This parish is extremely well watered, both for Rivers. beauty and for use. The Lagan forms its south east boundary, and, as far as that boundary extends, is navigable, with the assistance of five small canal cuts. Near the town of Belfast this river is of very LaKan considerable breadth ; in one place, upwards of 1300 feet across, but more frequently, rather less than half that distance. Its breadth is contracted beside the town by extensive embankments on both sides ; but at high Avater, the appearance of the Lagan is extremely spacious and ornamental. The banks are low, and the stream itself is smooth and silent in its course Y 170 Though this river runs almost thirty miles, its breadth, except near Belfast, is not very great, and beyond this parish the canal cuts soon become more numerous and capacious. The other rivers in the parish are inconsiderable ; but from their situation, and their number, are not less useful than the Lagan. They all descend from Mountain the mountains in rapid, broken, and meandering Streams. m ... courses ; being of incalculable utility, either in draining or irrigating the land, but more especially in conveying Avatcr to the mills and manufactories which such streams always attract to their banks. The number of bleach greens near the mountains, and the artificial channels which diverge from these rivulets, are sufficient proofs of that industry and wealth which they are the means of diflusing. In winter they are much swelled with the rains, hut in summer often completely dry. The principal of these rivers are the Colin, or the Rumbling- burn water, the BlackstalF, the Milewater, and the Forth. These all rise in the mountains, and fall either into the Lagan, or the bay of Carrickfer- gus, near the town of Belfast. The main branches are increased with numerous tributary streams, all partaking of the same bold features, con- sisting of banks, on many occasions, remarkable for their height and steepness ; in some places, com- 171 posed of clay, and in others, o! firm or friable rocks. There are very few lakes in this parish, and none Lakes. of any great magnitude. There is one in Malone, opposite Wilmount, which appears to be partly na- tural and partly artificial. It contains three small islands, and, though not large, is a considerable or- nament to the road which it immediately adjoins. Of the Lagan navigation, there is a very impor- Lagan n*. vijjation. tant part, which may properly be considered as be- longing to this parish, the different windings of the river, from the town of Belfast to Drumbridge, making a course of about six Irish miles. The five canal cuts, where the river was found too shallow or irregular for the purposes of navigation, farm scarcely a seventh part of that distance. The im- propriety in substituting any portion of a river for a canal has been often explained, and the effects of so great an error as frequently experienced, so that it was in contemplation for many years to make an en- tire new cut between Belfast and Lough Neagh, the advantages of which would, it is thought, over- balance the immense difficulties and expense with which it would be attended. It is probable, how- ever, that any great alteration in this respect is at present distant ; for this navigation, whatever may be its disadvantages, is now, and hat. been, for sc 172 veral years past, in a state of progressive improve- ment. The Lagan is too small a river for the appli cation of that great invention of modern times, the propulsion of ships by steam ; but the steam vessel lately built near Lough Neagh, and now in full ope- ration on that noble sheet of water, will, no doubt, materially add to the importance and utility of this navigation. its com. The W orks for opening a communication from mencement l ^ Belfast to Lough Neagh were begun so early as the year 1754 ; but until 1809, the country derived no advantage from what should have been one of the principal sources of internal prosperity. At its com- mencement, a large grant was made by the Irish parliament ; ten thousand pounds were advanced by the late Marquis of Donegall and others, as a loan ; and an act passed for defraying the remain- ing cost, by duties on beer and spirits, manufac- tured or brought into certain parts of Lisburn ex- cise district. These funds, however, were found inadecmate to finish and keep in repair a canal of the proposed extent ; so that an act was made in 1779, when a considerable part of the work was done, for incorporating those who had advanced or who should advance money into a company, and thus holding out the prospect of a profitable speculation The late Marquis of Donegall contributed ^£62,000 for this purpose, which finished the canal from th< state. 173 Union Locks to Lough Neagh. But even these exertions were insufficient to complete the undertak- ing'. The works were kept in bad repair, and ex- posed, in an unfinished state, to all the injuries of the weather. In 1809, however, a number of indi- its present Improving viduals purchased a considerable part of Lord Do- negall's interest in this navigation, and subscribed large sums to render it of public and permanent ad- vantage. Since that time, upwards of £ 20,000 have been expended in judicious improvements. A track way for horses has been made along a great part of the canal, and the trade is now rising in importance and estimation. The receipts arise from the tolls, and a duty of four pence per gallon on spirits under the regulation already mentioned, that on beer hav- ing been discontinued. The principal trade is from Belfast to Lisburn and Lough Neagh, four- teen hours being the usual time for lighters to pass to the former, and thirty to the latter place, where they are taken in tow by the steam boat, and ena- bled to convey with rapidity and safety the produc- tions of other countries to the different towns which lie along its shores. *o Scenery, Natural Curiosities, 8fc. From the account which has been given of the •superficial appearance of this pariah, the beauty and variety of its scenery may be readily conceived. To 174 a stranger, the Malonc district will appear the most inviting. The excellence of the road, the improved state of cultivation, the elegance of one class of houses, and the chearfulness of another, together with the planting and improvements of various kinds with which both are surrounded, unite in forming a scene which is truly enticing for its rural charms. The ground which is decked with this assemblage of striking objects possesses a complete and curious medium, between a dull and unchang- ing flatness and a rocky or mountainous surface. scenery It resembles the waves of the sea : not the broken of Malonc and tempestuous billows of the ocean, but its regu- lar and gentle undulations. Nothing is abrupt, or waste, or unproductive. No part is too elevated to be arid, nor too low to be marshy. Trees and cot- tages are profusely mingled with waving corn, on every hill and in every valley, so that it may with truth be said, that art has chosen the same place to exert her power which nature before had selected. Travellers, indeed, never fail to express their ad- miration, sometimes their surprise, at the soft and delightful scenery of the country between Lisburn and Belfast. Its beauties may, doubtless, be in- creased or diminished by the collateral embellish- ments of times or seasons. The luxuriant autumn of this beautiful country cannot but awaken the most pleasing reflections, and the eye can rest upon no 175 object which will impede the progress of such thoughts. But, whether it be the lively verdure of spring*, or the resplendent glow of summer, the rural landscape is still complete, and the expressive images of one of the greatest of our descriptive poets, live and move before the sight. Such impres- sions cannot be transient when the objects are pre- sent ; and though the effect may soon be forgotten by those who are contented with a cold and calcu- lating inspection, the dreariness of winter can never obliterate it from the minds of those, who have learn- ed to relish the rich and genuine beauties of rustic scenery. Let it not be thought that exaggeration has any share in this. Even so early as the year 1635, the progress of thedistrict now described was so considerable, as not to have escaped the atten- tion of a cursory traveller of that distant period, who has taken the liberty of calling it a paradise, in com- parison with every part of Scotland. Since that time it has been the most forward in improvement, and its outward appearance at present is such as to excite the most unmixed gratification. The scen- ery of several private roads between the Falls and Malone is a renewal of the same objects, and must be enthusiastically admired by every lover of rural beauty. Where there is little extremely promi- nent; where the whole is one extended view, uni- formly rich and beautiful, description must be con- fined to general terms, and even the magic touches mountain. 176 of the pencil would be insufficient to represent the fair and goodly scene. of the Biack That part of the parish which lies between the Black mountain and Malone is equally gratifying to the eye. The finely enclosed fields which compose the Falls meadows are quickly passed over to con- template the bolder and gradually ascending sur- face. The base of the hill appears studded with houses and clumps of trees, while the numerous and successful efforts to reclaim from barrenness the steep sides of the mountain, argue strongly for the increasing industry and perseverance of those who inhabit that quarter of the parish. The Black moun- tain, however, soon becomes, at least in the part now described, sterile and perpendicular, bidding defiance to the efforts of cultivation. Though its general aspect is dark and rugged, which is in- creased by the great lateral ravines that traverse its surface, it possesses an appearance of uncommon interest from the multitudinous spots of a brighter hue which the revolving seasons produce, and from the whiteness of the immense lime quarries which industry has formed, and may continue to use for ages yet to come. road. of the shore The scenery of the Shore road has more bold- ness and variety, but not so much rural beauty as Malone. The most conspicuous objects are 177 the majestic precipices of the Cave hill, which may he seen to great advantage. This is the only place in the parish on which the basalt is bared to any great extent, and it presents, in com mon with the other mountains which run along the bay of Carrickfergus, that singular disposition of rising gradually from the land side, and breaking off with abrupt and perpendicular rocks towards tho sea. Of these the rocky side of 31ac Art's Fori, which, jutting out from all the rest, forms a sharp and insulated projection, is the most striking. The whole of them, however, form a remarkable contrast with the peaceful fields and cottages which encircle their base. This road has also other recommenda- tions. The numerous villas on one side, and the spacious bay of Carrickfergus, with its many accom- panying attractions, on the other, create a fresh and perpetual variety. On the Falls and Shankill roads, the scene is oftheFaiis and Shankill equally pleasing. Bleach greens and mills are in- roads termixed with the white-washed cottages, and all the busy marks of a wealthy, populous, and thriving district follow in rapid succession. If we leave the public roads, and enter upon those which diverge from the Shankill and the Falls, our admiration will be called forth by similar objects. In these respects, there are several places worthy of particular obser- z 178 vation. The appearance of the houses and the peo~ pie round the village of Dunmurry, which is just on the horders of the parish, containing an extensive flour mill and bleach green, bespeak nothing of in- dolence or poverty. The same is the case on the lower part of that road which leads through Han- nahstown, and of the numerous and beautiful cot- tages here, there is probably not one, the owner of which is not concerned in the extensive bleach works which every side presents. In these in- stances it is undoubtedly the manufactures which give impulse to their exertions, and which surround their dwellings with comfort. But if, in surveying the scenery of this parish, the beaten track be altogether forsaken, many objects worthy of admiration will present themselves to the view at the foot of the mountains. If the Cave hill have an abrupt summit, none of the requisites so indispensable in rural scenery are wanting at its base ; possessing, in such a place, charms of which they would be deprived in any other situa- tion. The lower part of the Bkick mountain, at Ballygomartin and the neighbouring townlands, is also particularly attractive. This mountain, in some other places so unproductive, is here green and slop- ing, with fields and trees rapidly increasing in height. It is in this part of the parish, too, may be seen in their greatest beauty, the mountain rivulets 17f) formerly mentioned. Their steep banks are covered with brushwood or natural shrubs, and their mur- muring course incessantly interrupted by small, ir- regular torrents. The banks of the Forth river, in many places, are stupendous ; sometimes of rocks? black, hard, and precipitous ; more frequently ol* red clay, often but partially concealed by shrubs and brambles that nature has produced, but which the hand of man may yet eradicate for nobler tenants. The very bed of the Forth, as also of the Colin ri- ver, is in some places a rock of whin stone, in which situation it admirably displays the regularity of its formation. In other places, the course of the stream is choked by the unconnected stones or masses, which have fallen from the impending heights. These banks are often composed also of crumbling limestone, and oblique rocks, thrown to- gether apparently without order or design, and sometimes perpendicular, sometimes shelving, they follow the winding course of the stream which they enclose ; and their height renders it strange, to some perhaps incredible, how they could have been worn by so inconsiderable a river. Of such a nature are the banks which form Colin coiiaGien. glen. They belong to the river of the same name, and are planted from tbj Falls road towards the mountains for the space of two miles. The stream is shallow, but of considerable breadth, and this 180 place certainly unites more natural, as well as arti- licial beauty, than any of the other mountain rivers. The hanks on many occasions must he more than two hundred feet in height, overspread with young' and flourishing trees. It is by far the most exten- sive plantation in the parish, and the view of this part of the glen from some elevated points is emi- nently beautiful. The high and shelving banks are covered with such a mass of leaves and branches, that the rivulet below seems embosomed in green. For the last quarter of a mile, however, these banks assume a very different aspect. They are formed of rocks, generally perpendicular and inaccessible, often overhanging their base, in many places crumbling to pieces and rent with fissures. De- pendant on the windings of the stream, they often form, on this account, the resemblance of vast am- phitheatres, crowned with low shrubs, and exclud- ing from the bed of the river, because of their height and circuitousness, the view of every distant object but the ethereal sky. To the geologist, this place is one of the most curious in our island, and to all it must appear grand and impressive. The innumer- able little cascades which have hollowed in their fall for ages deep cavities ; the confusion of rocks and shrubs which prevail ; the towering banks ; the view which in some spots may be caught of the cir- cumjacent mountains ; and the solitude which gem- rally reigns in this beautiful glen, altogether form a 181 scene, which is capable of exciting' the most intense and lively interest. After the copious account which has been given Natura i , iv curiositie of the mineralogy of this parish, it can scarcely be expected that any natural productions of much im- portance remain to be mentioned. The most re- markable curiosities, indeed, are the numberless pe- trifactions which are found imbedded in the rocks, particularly in those that confine the Colin river. They arc so extremely abundant, that this place has acquired great celebrity, being always visited by strangers who have inclination for such pursuits. The marine exuviae and organic remains found in the Mulatto at the Black mountain, are also not less numerous than wonderful. They consist not only of shells, but of various kinds of bones ; some, per- haps, the remains of terrestrial animals, but often, likewise, of an uncertain origin. There are no waterfalls of any considerable size in this parish. The highest is situated near the cascade* ,. , . the Mile- SOUrCe ot the JMilevvater, and on the western side of watt' the Cave hill. The water accumulates on the moun- tain, and at length overflows into a most abrupt and tremendous ravine. The lower part of this cascade, which is completely perpendicular, is upwards of thirty feet in height. The whole extent, however, which the water falls would be found more 182 than double that distance, but the upper part is much less regular than the lower. The breadth of the stream is very trifling ; though in winter it forms a large and foaming torrent, which may be heard at a considerable distance. The water falls into a kind of rocky gulf ; the banks on each side are extremely high and steep, concealing the mountains and the surrounding country entirely from the view. Therumrang At the top of Colin glen is a small Avaterfall, pro- jected from the rock in two different streams which cross each other at the bottom. They fall into a deep, or, according to the opinion of the country people, an unfathomable well imbedded in rocks ; beside which, and above a well of a similar kind, supplied by another waterfall, there are about a do- zen holes hollowed out of the solid stone. They are completely circular ; generally about the size of a large basin, but much deeper, and evidently the work of nature. They are smooth within, though not regular, as in most of them a piece of rock projects up in the middle, which is also as level as the curvature of the hole. They are generally filled with water, even those which az'e above the level of the adjacent wells, and appear to have no communication with them, a circumstance which probably arises from some internal means of supply. Though traces of such holes may be frequent at wa- terfalls, and though there are marks of several near tains. 183 many of the torrents in this very river, there are certainly few places where they are so numerous or so perfect in their formation. It is difficult to ac- count for their origin, but they have most probably been caused by the action of water gradually wash- ing away the softer parts of the rock. The country people call this place the " Rumbling Hole," and look upon it with no little veneration. The graud and extensive views, which the weary Grand Pros. ° 7 J pert s from the traveller will command from the summits of the themoun/ mountains, come last to be described, and well de- serve to be numbered among the natural curiosities of the parish. From Devis may be seen on one side, the bays of Carrickfergus and Strangford ; on the other, the broad expanse of Lough Neagh almost beneath our feet. The south presents the lofty mountains of Mourne ; and apparently in a conti- nuous chain, the distant hills of Tyrone and Derry, ending in Sleimis, and others of our northern high- lands. Towards the east the Irish channel may be distinguished beyond the terrific rocks which re- strain its fury near the entrance of this bay ; and farther on, in a clear atmosphere, the coast of Scot- land, and the Isle of Man, are visible above the blue horizon. Between these remote objects the view is varied and enlivening in the extreme. The finely cultivated hills of Down ; the spacious bay of Car- rickfergus, with the islands and light-house at its 184 entrance, and every little indenture on its coast marked with the distinctness of a map ; the different villages, the numerous country seats on both sides of the Lough, surrounded or adorned with number- less clusters of trees, in some places apparently meeting the lucid wave ; the town of Belfast en - veloped in smoke, with the shipping, the Long Bridge, the beautiful valley through which the La- gan winds, and lastly the smooth stream itself, oc- casionally hid from observation by intervening hills or groves, comprise the principal objects which serve to fix the wandering sight. The scene nearer the mountains is also rich and animating. The country appears a level plain ; while the course of every road, the situation of every house, and the dimen- sions of every field, can be accurately traced. In the opposite direction, the improved districts of Kil- lead, Glenavy, and Ballinderry, together with Lough Beg, separated from its gigantic neighbour, and that beautiful and picturesque spot, Ram's Island, are all equally distinct. The superior height of Devis can no where be more plainly perceived than when standing on its summit ; and every one that witnesses the charming and widely extended prospect which has been described, must contrast it in feeling exultation, with the bleak and barren summit from which it is viewed. 185 From Mac Art's fort on the Cave hill, there is a view from Mac Art'* prospect of many of the same objects. Besides fort these, the high rocks, forming a sort of semi-circu- lar gulf, the unconnected masses which have been precipitated from the surrounding heights, and the numerous conical hillocks at their base, exactly re- sembling in shape the products of volcanic eruptions, all of which by impressing the mind as the marks of some horrid convulsion, most powerfully interest and awe the spectator. There is no part of our mountain scenery at all to be compared with this for magnificence ; and if, from a connection with other objects, its appearance from a distance be highly beautiful, a nearer acquaintance cannot fail of pro- ducing a truly sublime effect. For the abundance and grandeur of its natural, for the softness and va- riety of its artificial scenery, this parish cannot cer- tainly be exceeded by many in the kingdom ; afford- ing therefore vast scope for the speculations of the naturalist, and for the admiration of those who can be gratified with the diversified works of nature and of art. Papulation, Food, Fuel, IVealth, Dress, 8fc. In the year 1725, the town and parish of Belfast Population. contained about 10,000 persons. Their inhabitants have bef:ii lately estimated at upwards of 50,000. It FoaA 186 would be very difficult in so large a place, where so many religious are professed, and no regular regis- ter kept, to specify the proportion of births and mar- riages, much less the number of persons at any par- ticular age. The former population of the parish must have been greatly regulated by the increase of the town of Belfast, and it probably now contains double the number of inhabitants which it did half a century ago, as many old people can distinctly tell the small number of houses that once existed upon roads which are now nearly populous streets. With the inhabitants of this parish, the most ge- neral articles of food are, as in all other country places in the kingdom, potatoes, meal and milk. The farmers, however, are not in the habit of send- ing all their pigs to market, and the vicinity of the town of Belfast affords the means of procuring a considerable quantity of other fleshmeat, which is generally plentiful, and often cheap. Though it is usual to hear at present some very serious com- plaints of a lamentable reduction in the quality of the fare of the common people, there is reason to think, that such representations will apply less to this parish than to most other places, and that the inhabitants still enjoy, in proportion to their rank or circumstances, a due though not in many cases, an abundant share of the comforts of this life. Among the lower orders in the town of Belfast, fish 187 (principally herrings) is in very general use ; and these people, in some instances, appear more intent on enjoying superfluities, than their station or their means would seem to render prudent. Among other things of this kind, it might not be improper to ani- madvert particularly on the pernicious influence of a foreign luxury which has crept in among the lower classes of most large to wns, and the consumption of which is unusually great in Belfast. It may easily be conjectured that tea is the article alluded to ; and it is undoubtedly one of the greatest drawbacks on the substantial comforts, and the health of la- bouring people which can possibly be conceived. When introduced into England it was sometimes smoked in pipes as tobacco is at present ; but finally the extract was preferred to the vapour, which when rendered palatable, and taken in small quantities, may not be thought unwholesome or un- pleasant. But there are poor persons in Belfast, (generally, but not always females) who quaff this noxious beverage in large quantities, frequently without any qualifying ingredient, often at six o'clock in the morning, two in the afternoon, or some other hour equally unseasonable ; spending in this way the wages which would procure for them whole- some, nutritious food on a nauseous senseless draught that will inevitably render the frame weak and emaciated, which their shrivelled skins and haggard countenances sufficiently demonstrate. 188 The fuel used here consists principally of coals, all supplied from the town of Belfast. The average price is twenty shillings per ton ; and in summer the Scotch coals are much cheaper. There is a vast quantity of bog- on the mountains, and the people in their immediate neighbourhood use no other kind of fuel. Owing- however to the difficulty of procuring this turf, and the moderate price of coals, it is not in so much demand as it would otherwise be in the lower parts of the parish. The inhabitants of this place have a considerable fondness for dress, even more so on some occasion* than their circumstances would appear to warrant. In the country, they are commonly clean and decent; and on that day appropriated to rest, the appearance of farmers, and their families, round Dunmurry, along the base of the Black mountain, and some other places is deserving of a much higher commenda- tion. There is not, however, any of that serviceable woollen cloth made here, which forms the staple in some other places. In the town of Belfast, (at least on Sundays) a stranger, unacquainted with the re- sources of a manufacturing people, would be altoge- ther astonished at the profusion of finery which is displayed. So complete a metamorphosis may often be effected on these occasions, that it might be a mat- ter of impossibility to recognize the decked and gar- nished persons of laborious mechanics, and those 189 who have been learning' during" the rest of the week, the inusie of the spinning jenny ; or to distinguish, as far as raiment is concerned, the families of trades- people or petty shopkeepers from the great ones of the land. This is a disposition, however, which must, in many instances, be rather applauded than condemned. Not taking into consideration the wealth of resi- dent noblemen or gentry, this parish may fairly be considered the richest in Ireland. The extent of its manufactures, and its importance in the commercial world, are conclusive proofs of such an opinion ; and though the town of Belfast and its neighbourhood are the principal sources of this opulence, a survey of the parish will convince every person, that great capital has been expended, by many individuals, and in va- rious occupations. The manufacturers, however, in proportion to their number, possess more wealth than the agriculturists. Though the land is dear, the far- mers also are generally in comfortable circum- stances, not however without extremes. Some are rich, and some are poor, which must doubtless de- pend, in a great measure, on their own exertions. The state of education in the town of Belfast has been already noticed. As to the country, there are few places where the means of instruction are more universally diffused. The small schools State of education. 190 throughout the parish are extremely numerous and well attended. They are much more frequently to be met with in the mountainous districts than might be expected ; and the anxiety of the poorest inhabi- tants to educate their children is a farther proof of the increasing improvement of the people in this part of the country. The Lancasterian school in the vil- lage of Whitehouse, and exactly on the borders of the parish, is of inestimable benefit to the surround- ing inhabitants. Those engaged in the cotton works at this place, and who are prevented, by their oc- cupation, from attending during the week, en-r joy the advantages of instruction on the Sabbath, In this parish, where it can scarcely be said that any inhabitant is so poor as to be unable to afford his family some trifling education, the want of en- dowed schools is not so much felt, or to be regret- ted. Such are the extensive means of improvement for the lower classes which this parish affords. With such opportunities, therefore, and such inclination to take advantage of them, it is not to be considered Avondcrful that education should be so generally dif- fused ; so general indeed, that it might be rather a rare occurrence, to find a native inhabitant of this parish who cannot read and write. Some of the old- er residents might perhaps be found extremely de- ficient in these particulars ; but the number of such 191 is undoubtedly small, and will entirely disappear with the rising generation. History, Present Stock of People, Language, Mariners, Customs, Traditions, fyc. If we may be guided by rational conjecture, this Early inha. parish, from its proximity to Britain, must have been peopled at a very early period. It is needless, how- ever, to extend this hypothesis, either by adducing any proofs in support of it, or enlarging on the pro- bable state of the aborigines, farther than to observe, that as roving savages their principal employments were war and hunting ; that their habitations were woods or caves ; and that they were ignorant of the use of metals, numberless stone weapons still re- maining as memorials of their barbarity . The most remote era at which any name can be a part of the " ancient applied to this parish, is in the second century, Dalaradia - when it is placed, according to the Irish antiquari- ans, in the southern part of Dalaradia, an ancient division of the county of Antrim.* The inhabitants were called Dalnarians ; and from the colonies that they placed in Argyleshire, as well as from the de- predations, which, in conjunction with their brethren in Scotland, they committed on the Roman settle- * For a farther illustration of this subject see " A Sketch of the History of the County of Antrim," — Anthologia Hibernica, vol. 3. 192 meats in Britain, their country acquired great ce- lebrity in the early affairs of Ireland. Though the inhabitants of this parish, undoubtedly, took an ac- tive share in these transactions, it is impossible that any information, relative to them in particular, could have been preserved through the lapse of so many ages. The history of the period indeed pre- sents little else than a continual series of emigra- tions and remigrations, of intestine wars, and pre- datory incursions. infested by About the middle of the eighth century this coun- tlie Danes. ° J try was much infested by the Danes ; and if even but the half of those low forts found in the king- dom were constructed by these people, they must have been particularly numerous in the parish of Belfast. It would seem that these foreigners in some cases incorporated with the Irish ; and by adopting their language and manners, frequently became great chiefs among the natives. Thus Do- nald O'Loghlin was king of Dalaradia in 1182, and his name signifies, the son of the Scandina- vian. It is impossible to ascertain whether any English were settled here by De Courcey ; but it is certain that as the power of these invaders increased, this place, from its vicinity to some of their strongest stations, would be considered one of the most se- 193 cure and desirable districts among their northern possessions. After the failure of the Scottish inva- sion of 1315, the Irish recovered, as has been for- merly mentioned, all their territory in this neigh- bourhood. The parish of Belfast, with a ^reat tract Becomes ti>e 1 ° property of of land northward, was allotted to Hugh Boye o-Nc h ii Roye O'Neil ; the name of the whole grant being at the same time changed from Dalaradia to North or Lower Claneboye. It remained in the family of O'Neil from that pe- riod till the reign of Queen Elizabeth, by whom it was granted, in 1571, on the attainder of Shane O'Neil, to Sir Thomas Smith, and Thomas Smith, his son ; but the endeavours of these persons to re- tain possession of the country were not attended with success.* The younger Smith was killed in Granted in 1571 to Sir, Thomas Smith. * There is an account of this grant to the Smiths, and its failure, in a rare and valuable manuscript called the " Grand Inquisition of the County of Down," taken in the year 1621. It is there stated, that all the temporal lands, tenements, hereditaments within the territories of Claneboye, and the Great Ards, came into the possession of Queen Elizabeth, in the eleventh of her reign, by an act of parliament for the attainder of Shane O'Neil ; the ex- tinguishing of that name, and entitling the said queen, her heirs, and successors to the county of Tyrone, and other counties in Ulster, &c. " We therefore grant to the said Thomas Smith, the father, and Thomas, his son, all and singular the Mannors, Houses, Castles, Monasteries, Abbies, Priories, Chantrys, Liberties, Chappels, Rec- tories, Messuages, Buildings, Lands, Tenements, Meadows, Pas- tures, Woods, Wastes, Forrests, Chases, Parks, Warrens. Lakes, Waters, Pools, Fishings, Commons, Moors, Marshes, Furzes, Mines, Minerals, Rents, Reversions, Services, Advowsons, Tythes, Wards, Marriages, Reliefs, Escheats, Commodities, Emoluments, and all B 2 194 attempting to establish a colony in the county of Down ; and after that event the lands were entirely retaken by the powerful clan which formerly pos- nfeONel 1 y sess >ed them. The principal proprietor in this neigh- bourhood was Conn O'Neil, of Castlereagh, whose chief possessions in 1603 were the Ards and Clan- boye, and as a sub or lesser territory under the lat- ollier hereditaments whatsoever with their appurtenances, in the Great Ards, Little Ards, and Claneboye ; towards the south, from the Cas- tle of Belfast, Castle Mouhray, and Castle Toom ; and all the Mo- nastery of Massareene in Claneboye, and the said Castle of Belfast, Castle Moubray, and Castle Toom, and all the Monastery of Massa- reene in Claneboye ; as also all and singular the Mannors, &c. lying in Claneboye, Tyrone, and other places in Ulster, which the said Smiths, or their assigns, shall, before the 28th March 1579, obtain and inherit against the Irish ; reserving to us, and our heirs, all mines of copper, gold, and silver : all to be held of the Castle of Carn'ckfergus by the service of one Knight's fee," They were also farther acquitted for the space of seven years, from all exactions, called Coyn, Livery, and Cess, and allowed the privileges of Courts Leet and Baron. The Inquisition then goes on to state the Tenor of the Covenants, beginning with an account that in the " Queen's Earldom of Ulster there be divers Parcells of Land, that lie waste or Inhabited with a wicked, barbarous, and uncivil people, some Scotish and some wild Irish ; and whereas, the Smiths, with a power of Englishmen agree to subdue all, and them plant with faithful subjects." It appears that Sir Thomas also covenanted, that all such as should be partakers in the enterprise should have the advantage of the following conditions: For every footman, or any one who shall find such at his own charge, one plowland to hold of the said Smiths, and their heirs, by the hundredth part of a knight's fee, and such other rents as shall be mu- tually agreed on. For a horseman, two plowlands by the fiftieth part of a knight's fee, and such other charges as may seem sufficient; each plowland to contain six score acres of arable, each acre to be four poles in breadth, and forty in length, and each pole to contain twenty-four feet of English standard measure in length. With the Queen they covenant to have for every plowland one able English foot soldier, well armed and furnished like the men of England; or for every two townlands a light English horseman, accoutred in the same manner. At every general Hostings, on fifteen days notice, they agree to appear before the deputy with the third part of all the horsemen aDd footmen that they are bound to provide They stipu- 195 ter, the Plains of Belfast are expressly included. This however did not perhaps comprise the whole parish, as it is at present divided, but the Falls meadows, which are still denominated the Plains ; part of Malcne, and probably some townlands in the adjoining districts. If this be correct, the northern end of the parish must have been held by some other member of the same family. It appears also from the subsequent statements in the Grand Inquisition, which is the authority for the foregoing facts, that the sub -territories in Claneboye were rather pos- sessed by chieftains of the sept, who probably paid Conn tribute as their liege lord, than reckoned as his own private possessions, and that among others the Plains of Belfast were held from him by the Abbey of Bangor. This powerful lord, however, was deprived a short time after, but on different late farther to grant no estate to any of the mere Irish or Scottish Irish, or to intermarry with them without permission. The Inquisition then proceeds to state that Thomas, the son. did in 1572 enter the earldom of Ulster, but did not subdue it; that the land was not planted with good subjects, that the Smiths had not ap- peared with their proportion of men, though their assistance was of- ten required ; that they did not win the castles, attend the deputy at Hostings, or pay the crown rent, and therefore that the whole grant reverted to King James. Nothing is more curious, or better deserving observation, than to trace the small remains that still point out the original owners of this land. The names of places are most remarkable. Thus ; Ligo- neil, where O'Neil loosed his hounds : Skigoneil, O' Neil's Thorn, supposed to mean a fort or fortress, and called a thorn from the un- easiness which the English experienced from it. These are both names of townlands in the parish of Belfast, and have some effict in shewing the occupations of the powerful chieftains who once possessed this country. For these and all the other derivations of Irish names throughout the work I am indebted to Mr. Samuel Brysou of Belfast. 196 occasions, partly by the artifices of others, and partly by his own conduct, of all his princely estate. Granted in The whole parish of Belfast was granted by King; lf»12 to Sir A. * O J O Chichester. j ames j n 1612 to gj r Arthur Chichester, who had previously established a number of Devonshire men in Malone. He was imitated in this laudable prac- tice by Sir Moses Hill, who introduced large colo- nies from Lancashire and Cheshire, as well into Malone, as into different parts of the neighbouring; parishes. But the population was more rapidly in- creased by Scottish settlers, who arrived here in great numbers from the very commencement of the reign of King James ; and who, by introducing more general habits of industry, materially bene- fited the country in which they fixed their abode. The present inhabitants therefore mig;ht be di- Prcsotit stock * ° tento,&a vided into three classes. First : the descendants of the Scots who arrived here at different times ; but especially during the reigns of James I. and Charles I. They principally occupy the sea coast, as well as the northern and western parts of the pa- rish, undoubtedly forming, if the town of Belfast be taken into consideration, by far the most numerous and most important portion of the population. Se- cond: the descendants of the English, settled herein the reigns of Elizabeth and James I. generally esta- blished in Malone, and also comprising a large por- tion of the inhabitants. Third : the remains of 197 those few Irish families who escaped the civil wars. They reside in the south western parts of the parish, chiefly above Hannahstown, in a bare and moun- tainous district. They are in general the poorest inhabitants ; inconsiderable in number, and yet most deserving- of notice, as being, perhaps, some of those whose progenitors once possessed the rich and fer- tile plains which lie beneath them.* The English tongue is universally spoken in this Language parish, the few remaining inhabitants of the Irish stock being almost wholly unacquainted with the dialect of their ancestors. The language of the in- habitants of Belfast and its neighbourhood is gene- rally acknowledged to be considerably pure. It is not, however, by any means, free from incorrect- ness, presenting both in pronunciation and in phra- seology, many improprieties, most commonly Scot- ticisms. Towards the parishes of Templepatrick and Carnmoney the Scotch accent becomes extreme- ly harsh and disagreeable ; so that it might, in some cases, be with difficulty understood by those who are accustomed to a more sonorous pronuncia- tion. There are however numerous exceptions to this, probably arising from a more frequent inter- course with the inhabitants of Belfast, or an inter - * The principal names among them are Hamill, Macquillan, Maeinullan, Macqueeston, &c. 198 mixture of the Scottish race with settlers from other parts of the country. disposition* 1 The & en i us an d disposition of the inhabitants of this parish cannot afford scope for a very interest- ing detail, not displaying so much diversity of cha- racter as those places in which the genuine Irish abound, and where the features are, of course, bolder and more peculiar. It is difficult to trace the pre- vailing dispositions of a people without constant and familiar intercourse. But it is still more difficult to furnish curious and original matter for accounts of this kind, where there is nothing extremely singu- lar ; where there is little so prominent, or distin- guished above the common level as to create asto- nishment and excite inquiry. It has already been shown that the bulk of the population is composed of the descendants of Scots ; and it would be needless to protract a decision on their disposition and character, by waiting for re- laxed or unguarded moments. They are the same at all times, and in all situations. The merchants, ma- nufacturers, and farmers of this parish form a nu- merous body, distinguished for patient and laudable industry. They are rather persevering than specula- tive ; and the best of them, rather naturally acute and intelligent, than disposed to be envious of lite- rary acquirements. 199 I n any part of this kingdom, it would be difficult or impossible to find a class of inhabitants endowed with more shrewdness than the country people of this parish. There are to be found among them none of those thoughtless, light-hearted dispositions, which the common voice has attributed to the Irish race. They are a plodding people ; cool, dry and deliberate, but evincing at the same time, in gene- ral intercourse, nothing farther repulsive or austere than an eager curiosity to pry into the names or em- ployments of those with whom they converse, and which is the more difficult to be repressed if that conversation be familiar. To these dispositions, also, however unpromising some might consider them, would rightly be ascribed the pre-eminence, which, on comparison, these people would be found to as- sume among the peasantry of Ireland. Nor will it require a long acquaintance to discover the inde- pendence of mind and principle by which they arc actuated ; and which marks a people totally diffe- rent from the prodigal and submissive* inhabitants of other parts of this kingdom. Each man here considers himself as good as his neighbour, and will submit to no unwarrantable oppression, however * The following passage occurs in Wakefield's Statistical and Po- litical Account of Ireland, vol. ii p. 722, " In the month of June, 1S09, at the races at CarJow, I saw a poor man's cheek laid open by the stroke of a whip. The inhuman wretch who inflicted the wound was a gentleman of some rank in the county. The unhappy sufferer was standing in his way, and without requesting him to move, he struck him with less ceremony than an English country squire would 200 elevated may be the quarter from which it comes Several instances of that fearless resistance to what they have looked upon as arbitrary or tyrannical acts in their superiors, might be brought forward in support of this. It is not however in the town of Belfast, where there is such a conflux of people, that inherent dispositions of this kind are to be ex- pected. The Scottish race, both here and in the neighbouring- parish of Carnmoney, are so bold and independent in their politics as to display an invin- cible antipathy to any innovations in their civil or religious opinions and establishments. One of the most popular preachers, probably in the kingdom, was sharply censured by a modern puritan of this parish for what he looked upon as a heinous trans- gression, but which others would represent not only as pardonable, but strictly proper and praiseworthy. The creed of the preacher was sound and orthodox ; his discourse was long and forcible ; and, what was of infinitely more consequence, it was extempora- neous ; his articulation was distinct, and his raan- a cW. But what astonished me even mere than the deed, and which shews the difference between P^nglish and Irish feeling was, that not a murmur was heard, ncr hand raised in disapprobation ; but thesur. rounding spectators dispersed, running different ways, like slaves ter- rifud at the rod of their despot." The comparison which Mr. Wakefield here makes between English and Irish feeling must be received with some limitation, for I am per- suaded that if any man should commit so cruel and wanton an action, on the Maze course for instance, which is ten miles from IJJfast. he would be driven from the ground with danger and disgrace, were he the lord of the soil. 201 ner appropriate. All these qualifications were of no avail, because, " he looked wonderful bishop -like with that gown on him." These were the very words ; they were spoken with no little asperity, and formed the sole objection. But the inhabitants of this place are at the same time a truly valuable community. Their prudent, cautious, and indepen- dent principles, so far from retarding- the advance- ment of industry, hasten and confirm its progress. It may safely be affirmed, therefore, that those dis- orders Avhich have disturbed and disgraced other, parts of this country, can never reach such a pitch here, so long as there are manufactures to employ the people, and so long as prosperity shall continue to flow from such a source. However great may be the progress of civiliza- custom?, &c tion in this parish, and however much it has contri- buted to root out the ignorance of former times, there are still to be found many of those supersti- tious prejudices and notions yet so prevalent in other parts of this kingdom. They form, however, but a lingering remnant ; and on many occasions are continued or believed merely on account of that reverence which always accompanies customs that have existed from " time out of mind." Few of those remarkable practices, which flourish in such numbers among the Irish stock, can be discovered c 2 202 here ; and though many of (hose, also, which do re- main, are foolish and extravagant, there is not per- haps, to speak generally, any class of people in Ire- land more free from superstition than the inhabitants of this parish. It must be confessed, however, that this observation applies with most truth to the low country ; and it is among- the mountaineers, where they are cherished perhaps by the wildness and so- litude of the scenery, that those singular or frivo- lous customs, so well deserving of minute investiga- tion, may be expected, and will chiefly be found. Though the reliance therefore on the superstitions alluded to, may not be universal, those who do be- lieve them, often place the most implicit confidence in their truth ; and much to amuse might be col - lected from the absurdity of some of these customs, the pertinacity of many in confiding so steadfastly on their reality, and the willingness of others to re- ject them, yet still reluctant to be thought wiser than tlieir fathers. As so much of the prosperity of the country people depends on the preservation of their cattle from dis- ease, the most efficient mode of attaining this de- sirable object has always been sought after with a solicitude proportionable to its importance. Not satisfied, however, with the operation of direct and probable remedies, recourse has been had to spells and amulets, leading to some of the most delusive 203 superstitions which the ingenuity of man has ever devised. Cows are subject to a disorder in the side, arising from a very natural cause, but accord- ing to the opinions of those who arrogate to them- selves a greater measure of wisdom than their neigh- bours, the disease is occasioned by no common in fluence, and must be eradicated by no common means. The animal is said to be elf shot, that is, wounded, or in some way injured, by one of those ancient and well known arrow heads of stone, so frequently found in this kingdom, called therefore by the people for this reason elf stones, coming from they know not where, and shot by, they say not whom. The malicious design, however, is defeated by a very [subtle counter-charm. A draught of salt and water is prepared, one of these missile weapons is dropped with due solemnity into the po- tion, which is immediately swallowed by the dis- eased patient. There are those in this parish who believe that the cure will be speedy and effectual, merely from the presence and supernatural power of a piece of common flint. Philosophers have long searched in vain for the elixir vitse. Behold here, in part at least, an admirable succedaneum, but like some of the other stupendous exertions of human in- genuity, it is unfortunately not known to whom we are indebted for this invaluable discovery ; a cir- cumstance which will leave the world in suspense 204 and regret, and which has robbed some sage per- sonage of an imperishable name. Many there are, however, who wisely considering that the prevention of a disease is always preferable to any remedy, defend their cattle from all danger, internal or external, present or remote, by a simple and invulnerable armour. An elf stone is hung at the cow's head, sometimes on the horn, and it has been found by long experience, that the sight of this object, like the eye of the basilisk, arrests the pro- gress and annihilates the power of the malignant dae- mon, or whatever other being it is, which would mo- lest so useful and inoffensive an animal. It is in- deed extremely curious to observe the uncommon superstition which is attached to these arrow heads. Scarcely a house is without one, some of which may have served as universal specifics for the last two or three centuries. The people reflect not on the barbarism of other years ; and it must undoubtedly raise their wonder to see such numbers of these re- gularly shaped stones, and exercise their invention to account for their existence. They support the belief of their supernatural origin by many sturdy arguments ; and will relate with astonishment how they dug or ploughed in a field where not one was to be seen ; but lo ! when arrived the next morn- ing on the same spot to resume their toil, the ground was strewed with the mysterious weapons. An en- 205 gagement in archery, a tilt or a tournament had ta- ken place among the dwellers in the middle regions, when the men of this world had retired to their ha- bitations. It must be remarked, however, that the belief in these things is weakening apace, and that even many of the mountaineers treat them with con- tempt. They may not be always sincere in this, being ashamed perhaps to acknowledge their credu- lity ; but even if such should be the case, it is a cer- tain token that they are losing ground in their esti- mation. Many instances of that superstitious dread which sujierstitious *■ notions con- accompanies the destruction of old forts may be ob- fort n s! ngokl served among the inhabitants of this parish. Some consider such an occupation little less than sacrile- gious ; and support their opinion with many mira- culous stories, of the dire misfortunes which befcl the property, as well as the persons, of the princi- pals, aiders, and abettors in these crimes. Others again, regardless of such examples, employ the spade and the plough in the business without much compunction ; and as the number of these fearless agriculturists is very properly increasing, so, it would seem, that the guardian fairies of the forts, overpowered perhaps by multitudes, arc relaxing in 206 their vigilance, as most transgressors escape now with impunity.* Similar to this, and perhaps even more general, is the respect for old thorns, which are numerous in this parish, particularly at Squire's hill. There are many persons by whom they are preserved with as much care as the misletoe of the Druids, and who would contemplate almost with horror, the downfal of their bare and knotted trunks. Their venerable appearance certainly claims some indulgence; so that from this circumstance, and the innumerable tales which are related of the vengeance that has been in- flicted by unseen agents on those who have treated these hallowed temples with disrespect, it is not at all incredible that they should impress weak minds with considerable awe. There are certainly some who discredit many of the prodigies attributed to theelf stones ; and yet who would, upon no conside- ration, be concerned in laying the axe, or eve a the pruning knife, to these antiquated thorns. Some years ago five pounds were offered by a late exten- sive landed proprietor to the person who would cut down an old thorn, which was an obstruction to some improvement in his grounds. It remained, however, for a long time untouched, till at length * It is perhaps worth noticing, that there have been frtqutnt in- stances of persons who have levelled these forts being attacked, or conceiving themselves to be attacked with some distemper ; whit h piuves, not the power of the fairies,, but the power of imagination. 207 it was destroyed at night, when darkness covered the parish, by some desperate or needy individual. Suspicion fixed upon a certain person ; and let it have been well or ill founded, the usual fatality at- tended the man who was its object. The airy divi- nities called in all their forces from the outskirts of their dominions to pour vengeance on his de- voted head ; the arrow of adversity was fixed, and flew with a sure and deadly aim. His family was dispersed by disease and death ; and he himself is at present a helpless mendicant. So runs the story. On another occasion, however, when the fuel was scarce, the wants of the people got the better of their fears, great numbers of thorns having been cut down and consigned to the flames. It is not re- corded that any misfortunes attended these delin- quents . It is almost unnecessary to mention that these Fair forts and bushes are supposed to be the haunts of fairies ; and many is the place in this parish which will be pointed out to the traveller as gentle, and many a fabulous narrative may he hear of the asto- nishing feats of these puissant and agile beings. It is no uncommon thing to meet, particularly among the mountains, men of years and experience, intel- ligent enough in other matters, who believe sincerely in their existence ; and who are by no means in- clined to be merry on the subject. Though this is 208 perhaps the most general piece of superstition in the kingdom, it is impossible to find any person who pretends tc have had ocular proofs of its truth. There are always two or three removes in the story ; and that humourous tale of magnifying celebrity, called " The Three Black Crows," would be found but a trifle, in comparison with the enormous addi- tions which are acquired by these fairy fictions in rolling from credulous tongues to greedy ears ad infinitum. We may indeed meet with persons, more easy of belief, or more favoured than their contemporaries, who will assert, positively and se- riously, that they have beheld the fairy forts and bushes blazing in splendid, but harmless glory ; or were charmed into mute rapture with the celes- tial notes of the fife, fiddle, or bagpipes from their subterraneous habitations. Though a story so truly ridiculous has been often repeated, the parti- cular tunes which entranced these wondering mor- tals, arc points still so far undetermined as to have been the occasion of much warm and angry contro- versy ; at the same time, that all parties give the invisible musicians the most unbounded praise for being thorough adepts in that elegant art. These notions, and several others which might !><• mentioned, however capable of a more diffuse il- lustration, are so far from being confined to this place, that a sprinkling of the whole is perhaps suffi- 209 cient ; and it will be more proper to limit the re- maining observations on this head to those which have better pretensions to a more strict locality. There is a custom, at least in most parts of this curious cus * torn oil East ■ kingdom, of repairing on Easter Monday to some conspicuous or celebrated place, generally an old fort, for the avowed purpose of mirth and festivity. The good people of Belfast and the neighbouring country, who are disposed to forego for one day the toils and cares of this busy world, have selected, from time immemorial, the Cave hill as the scene of their convivial sports. Mac Art's Fort, as being the greatest for many miles around, is probably the ostensible object which attracts their visit ; but dreading to wrestle so near the sky with a certain potent and insidious enemy who is no respecter of times or places, and who has never been known to be absent from any Irish fair, wake, patron, Easter day, or other jovial meeting, they very prudently choose a less elevated situation ; and pitching with much circumspection, numerous tents on the soft green sward beneath, where the advances of the said treacherous adversary can be watched, his attacks resisted on firm ground, and where the vanquished may rise uninjured from the combat, they indulge in all that mirth which the scene and the occasion can- not fail to inspire. Among the more juvenile revel- d 2 210 lers, at this great festival, there is a singular custom, and one which is nearly local. Eggs are boiled hard in a liquid in which some colouring matter, ge- nerally logwood, or furze blossoms, has been in- fused. When properly dyed they are carried to the fields, and rolled on the ground, thrown into the air, or used in whatever manner may suit the fancy of the clamorous throng. This practice is here en- tirely confined to children, and certainly to all ap- pearances very unmeaning. There is reason to think, however, that it forms the remains of the im- portance and solemnity which attended the presen - tation of the paschal eggs ; a custom, which, though divided into various branches, is of as long a stand- ing as it is at present general through many parts of the European continent, particularly in Russia.* It might be a difficult matter to explain how this su- perstition, which seems now to belong to the Greek church, has got footing here ; but this circumstance will give rise at least to one interesting reflection ; that customs, to which more credulous or more un- enlightened ages have attached a reverential impor- tance, may dwindle at last into the trivial sports of children, into an insignificance which mocks their former greatness. * For a farther account of this subject, see " Brand's Popular Su- perstitions," p. 510, and the authorities there referred to, Hakluyt and Clarke. 211 On May day, a happy and joyous era, it is usual £™ in many places to collect flowers peculiar to the sea- son, and to suspend them in wreaths or circles from some conspicuous situation ; or else to dance " wi' mirth and glee" round a pole or bush, decorated in a similar manner. Neither of these good old prac- tices, however, is in much repute here, being super- seded by one which seems to agree better with the general inclination of the people. Large bushes are procured, and profusely ornamented with rags, rib- bands, and streamers of all colours, shapes, aud sizes. At almost every corner in the town of Belfast, one of these is fixed, surrounded with a group of idle, mischievous urchins, who attack all passengers with the utmost importunity, for " money to help their May pole." A rope is sometimes placed across the street, with the view of obliging all refractory persons to comply with their demands. This, however, is but a corruption of the original custom, and will not probably be of long continuance ; resembling, per- haps, in this respect, the fate of many others, which have been anticipated with delight, or have been the source of much innocent gratification. On May eve, when the sun has gone down, it is customary for young damsels to go forth to the fields in a body, when each of them procures a living snail or a bunch of yarrow, from either of which it is in their power to discover (by a method which has re- ous rus- 9IO ceiveVl the sanction of the most prudent and know- ing- matrons) the names of those who are to be their partners through this " breathing world." The process is simple. A dish or platter, whether of earthen ware or wood it matters not, is placed over the body of the unintelligent reptile, which has free li- berty to exercise its nimbleness on an arena of meal or saw dust, the exact dimensions of the prison house in which it is thus most innocently incarcerated. Though the snail be not reckoned the most active of the animal creation, yet neither is it altogether dis- posed to a state of perfect quiescence, and as in all its movements it is well known to leave a shining u pledge behind," so in its rambles when in bondage during this critical night, the faculties of the crea- ture are miraculously enlarged, and it is found to trace with singular precision some two or three let- ters of the Roman alphabet which form the initials of the name of some future happy helpmate. If at any time, however, a mischievous or an incredulous person should have an opportunity of pointing out any superlluity in the inscription (a case not abso- lutely impossible), his objection is readily and just- ly obviated by claiming due allowance for the flou- rishes of so expert and tasteful a scribe. The yarrow is an equally useful auxiliary on such occasions. It produces dreams, in which events- to come u-rc depicted, and in which the future yoke- 213 fellows of those who try the charm " with heart and hand," stalk with a grave and majestic pace before their slumbering senses. The traditions of the inhabitants of this parish, with respect at least to those times and incidents which have marked with so much singularity the page of Irish history, are excessively crude and vague. Their earliest tradition, (if such it can be called) is an account of a deformed and diminutive race of beings, whom they denominate Pechts or Pauchts, and who formerly inhabited caves in the uucwtaYn'i their tradi- earth. It is usual to hear persons when wanting to tions - express any thing immeasurably old, exclaim, " as far back as the time of the Pechts." It is difficult to account in a satisfactory manner for this strange tradition ; which, if general only among the Scottish race, might reasonably be thought to be derived from the kingdom of their ancestors, Pechts being the true orthography for what is more commo nly written Picts. Vague and concerning the Danes. The only'traditions which remain here concerning Traditions the Danes, but which exist also in other places, are, that they brewed beer from heath ; and that red- haired men are of Danish extraction. With respect to the former of these, it appears impossible that a palatable liquor could have been made from such a material alone , perhaps honey, so well known at 214 least to the ancient Irish, has supplied the defi- ciency. As to the latter, nothing is more common than to call an able-bodied red haired man, " a stout hardy Dane; 1 ' an observation which is re- markably corroborated by the fair complexions and light hair so general among the people in the north- ern parts of Europe. The inhabitants of this parish mention with the utmost obscurity, the era of the Danes. It is an epoch to which they can fix no time, much less attach any particular event. They speak indeed almost indiscriminately of the time of the Danes, and the wars of Ireland ; by the latter of which they generally understand the great rebellion of 1641. The few inhabitants of the Irish race exhibit in their traditions the same perplexity. It is two or three generations too late to obtain any thing curious or precise in this way ; for though their intercourse with the inhabitants of towns may have sharpened their faculties, it has perhaps ex- tinguished their love for the tales of their forefathers. They have heard indeed of the destructive progress of" PhelimyRoe;" they have imbibed from tradition a tincture of that dislike which prevails among their sect in Ireland to the name of King James ; and, above all, they are possessed of a notion that their ancestors were driven up to the mountains, to make room for more powerful and more fortunate rivals. 215 It is remarkable, however, that all can tell of the Traditions o» Fin MacCool. mighty prowess of that redoubted champion Fin Mac Cool. But if this title be the same with the celebrated name of Fingal, they woefully mistake the character, and sadly misrepresent the actions of the king- of Morven. They can tell of his vast, unwieldy stature ; and many homely anecdotes of his giant strength, or irresistible cunning. Their stories are highly absurd ; and form a most com- plete burlesque on those immortal poems attributed to an ancient bard, and in which Fingal makes so distinguished a figure. But if we may put credence in the speculations of ossum* J l r Poems. a certain enthusiastic advocate* for the authenticity of the sublime productions alluded to, this and some of the adjacent parishes must indeed be raised to immortal celebrity, as the scene where Fingal fought, and of which Ossian has sung. In a pamphlet which has been lately given to the world, entitled Ossiano, an attempt is made from the coincidence of names and places, and from several other ingenious expe- dients, to ascertain the battle fields of Fingal in Ulster; thence to prove the genuineness of Ossian's poems, as well as the purity and faithfulness of their translation. The attempt is a bold one ; and though more curious than most subjects which admit not of certainty, any interest which it * Hugh Campbell, Esq. 216 Tins and the mfl y excite must be doubly heightened, when it shall adjoining pa- J J ~ be S the scene be found, that, in tlic mind of tins author, the proofs of Fingal'g battles. are ani pjy sufficient to convince all unprejudiced persons that Fingal and his warriors did come from Scotland to Ireland to light and conquer ; that here is the country which witnessed their achieve- ments ; and that the cause of Ossian now stands on a more undoubted basis than any former proofs had been sufficient to place it. To enter deeply into this tortured and endless controversy would be irrelevant ; but it may not be amiss to show, with all possible brevity, the depen- dance which ought to be placed on the marvellous, and apparently imposing proofs of this ingenious commentator. As meant to establish the authen- ticity of those works ascribed to the great northern epic poet, they are as futile and unavailable as can well be imagined ; which may be shown, in many cases, not only by counter arguments of a similar kind, but from the very words and sentences of the poems in question. The first, and what might appear perhaps to a superficial reader the strongest argument, is drawn from the resemblance between the name ofCarn- money, which bounds the parish of Belfast, towards the north, and the Carmona of Ossian. So great, indeed, and so striking is the coincidence, that, ac- 2\1 cording to the defender of the bard, there is no diffi- Attempt to <-* 7 prove the eulty whatever in ascertaining that they are one and JuSem car." raona and the the same place : the bare mention of the circum- "*"' Carn stance is sufficient. Nothing-, however, can possi- bly be more deficient in proof; and from the ex- treme feebleness of this argument, which seems to be reckoned on as an indisputable foundation, an estimate might almost be formed of those which ac- company it. If other evidence were wanting, it might be proved that Carnmoney is rather a modern name ; the parish at present so called, having been formerly denominated Coole. This however may be passed over as immaterial, if it can be shown, beyond a doubt, that the Carmona mentioned by Ossian was not in Ireland, as the pamphlet would endeavour to persuade us, but in Scotland, or in whatever other country acknowledged the matchless Fingal for its king. In the poem of " Cathlin of Clutlia, " the poet speaks of the " echoing bay of Carmona ;" but there are no words whatever, either before or after, by which a reader would be led to imagine, that this said " echoing bay" was elsewhere than in Scotland. The ground work of the poem is laid there. Fingal, and his warriors, while in their own kingdom of Mor- ven, saw, in the bay of Carmona, the " bouuding ship, 1 ' which contained Cathlin, who came from a e 2 218 distant country requiring aid to avenge his father's murder. Ossian and Oscar were chosen for this expedition ; and it appears from the argument, as well as from the poem itself, that they sailed from Carmona's bay. These things must appear as plain and decisive to every reader as they have to Mr. Macpherson , or some other commentator, who has taken care to add in a note the derivation of the word Carmona,* and to inform us that it was an arm of the sea in the neighbourhood of Selma : Sel- ma and Morven are synonymous, andMorven is re- presented as the refined kingdom of Fingal in North Britain. Lest this might not be sufficient, another proof, equally palpable, shall be brought forward. Fin- gal, Ossian and others made an excursion into Ire- land, but were speedily recalled, to oppose a Bri- tish chief who had invaded the kingdom of Morven in their absence. The poem of Lathmon is the sub- ject of this contest, and opens with some impatient exclamations of Fingal, at his detention by con- trary winds on the Irish coast. At length however * This very derivation also is a conclusive argument against the identity of the two places. Carmona is stated in Ossian to signify " the bay of the dark brown hills." Mr. Campbell, to make it bear on his own system, has taken the liberty of dropping the n in Cam- money, which is a word totally different from Carmona, and instead of meaning •' the bay of the dark brown hills," is translated by the " Cairn in the Bog." 219 their sails are spread ; and after rushing;, as the poet expresses it, into Carmona's hay, Ossian as- cends the hill ; strikes his hossy shield ; the rock of Morven replies; and the foe is troubled in his pre- sence. This union of Carmona and Morven ap- pears so clear, that it is matter of astonishment, how the author of this defence could have fallen in- to the strange oversights to which his hypothesis in this case inevitably leads. This pamphlet would also endeavour to convince Therec.iv ... , Lego of Os- us that the river Lagan is designated by Ossian sjanandthe ° <3 « river Lagan under the name of " reedy Lego ;" and as such an same. et e assertion relates directly to the subject in hand, it is proper to show how unwarrantable an assumption has been made also in this instance. Lego is never described or mentioned in these poems as a river ; but the frequent notices which are taken of it, and the numerous similes or metaphors which it sup- plies, invariably and unquestionably declare it to be i\ lake. It is expressly called " Lego's lake," which has not arisen from any ignorance on the part of the writer as to the distinction between the two bodies of water ; for we read repeatedly of " Lu- bar's stream," but in no instance of Lego's stream, or any other epithet applicable to that river. It is not of such size as to bear the least resemblance to a lake, and in fact the argument in this, as in the preceding case, rests on so weak a foundation that 220 it is surprising- how it could have been advanced by a writer of judgment and discrimination. Ossian, in one of his descriptions, speaks of Lego's " sable surge ;" and therefore, because the Lagan has a dull course from Lisburn to Belfast, it is the " reedy Lego ;" and Lisburn must be the place where Branno performed his earthly pilgrimage. Good logic and sound. That the Lagan, however, appears a sluggish stream, must, in a great degree, be at- tributed to the locks which preserve the level, for there are eighty feet of a fall between Lisburn and Belfast, and it was really one of the arguments used against the design of converting this river into a canal, that the banks on each side were frequently carried away by its rapidity. But is not the writer of this vindication absurdly inconsistent with himself, when he founds his argument for theseplaces beingthe same, on the presumption of their mutual smoothness and placidity,* and yet in the very poems, with which doubtless he is well acquainted, there are such expressions as these : " like the strength of the waves of Lego ;" or " the dark rolling waves of Lego." This, however, is a secondary argument, and need not be much insisted on ; for it is as im- * Besides all this, the epithet sable means dark, and not smooth or placid. It is also, perhaps, worth mentioning, that in a map of Ireland pre- vious to the 13th century, to which I have formerly referred, and which appears to be the joint pioduction of some of our most learned and celebrated antiquaries, the river Lagan is called Bosa. 221 possible to reconcile adverse proofs, as to transform a lake into a river. The hollowness of the whole reasoning relative to this part of the subject, may also be shown by ano- ther, not perhaps indeed so unequivocal a method. In that short effusion styled " The Death of Cutbul- lin," the poet calls the rebel Torlath, whom the for- mer overthrew, " chief of Lego ;" and relates, that at his death, he was mourned by " Lego's heroes," his compeers in arms ; while in the argument to this poem we are informed, that Torlath was a Con- naught warrior. It is unnecessary to mention the distance between the two places. Again ; Cuthullin and Torlath engaged in single combat, while the army of each stood aloof ; the for- mer commanding his companions to retire to Sli- mora's shady side, within view of the engagement, as appears by the sequel ; and in the poem of Te- mora, Carril, the bard, who had accompanied Cu- thullin in his expedition, is represented as coming from this same dark Slimora with the news of the hero's fall; there is a note expressly added, that it was a hill in Connaught near which Cuthullin was slain, and yet the battle in which befell took place, according to the poem, at Lego. These are plain contradictions, and if they were the only arguments 222 which could be brought forward, might be rendered much more explicit and convincing.* That Carrickfergus was theTura of the ancients is entirely conjectural, and advanced with the most dogmatical confidence without any attempt to be supported by proof, or to have it considered that argument was at all necessary for the ^confirmation of such an opinion, The author talies the Cave hill to be the " misty Cromla" of Ossian. As the poems, however, give no reason whatever to believe that such a conjecture is well founded, it was to have been expected that we might at least have been favoured with some lit- tle illustration of it. We are told that Cuthullin re- tired to his cave at Cromla ; and this is perhaps the reason why the mountain in question, which is well known for the excavations in its rocks, has been se- lected. If such be the case, however, the supposi- tion is invalid, as none of the caves here would agree in appearance with that ascribed by Ossian to Cuthullin, beside which, we are told, fell a foaming * These notes are in an edition of Ossian's poems published in Mr. Macpherson's life time. They are written consequently by himself, and in proving him to have been a much better •' Celtic Antiquary" than the gentleman who has been lately raised to that high dignity, form an unanswerable and overwhelming proof against the system of the latter. 223 torrent, there is no water near any of those at the Cave hill. It is but fair, however, to mention, that the description of Cuthullin's dwelling place would suit much better a hole in the rock at Woodburn waterfall, above Carriekfergus, called " Peter's Cave." This place has probably escaped the pry- ing eye of the " Celtic antiquary ;" but if it should have been the mansion house of Cuthullin, the " strong armed son of the sword" has been con- tented with indifferent accommodations, for he cer- tainly could not repose himself, as reported of the dervis in the Spectator, after the manner of the east- ern nations. The conjecture, however, receives a strong corroboration from the fact, that close be- side it, is another small hole which might have served in lieu of better, to house the bay cattle and the glittering chariot of " the generous son of Semo." But to enter on something serious. The author crumiinam* Cromleagh of this neat little pamphlet may be assured that the said to be the r r J same. people here have derived no trifling amusement from his researches. They stared, and were amazed, (and it was impossible they could do otherwise) when informed by a passing traveller from a dis- tant country the most minute particulars of the his - tory and former state of their very fields and gar- dens ; when the most glorious and touching inci- 224 dents of the " olden time" were brought home to their very doors, of which they, the natives — they, the M dull weeds," had remained from age to age in shameful and total ignorance. There was some- thing ominous, and at the same time something de- grading in the matter ; but when their wonder had fallen a few degrees, they began to discover the presence of a number of slips or errors that had, notwithstanding the caution of the author, made good their entrance into his patriotic docu- ment. This was considered somewhat odd, and as surprise is fortunately a passion which does not con- tinue to act very long on the human faculties, its de- parture was marked by the return of sober, cool inquiry, who discovered, in the twinkling of an eye, that the whole system possessed not in itself the least soundness or strength. Nothing tended more to accelerate this opinion than the account which was given of the pretty little village of Crumlin, the name of which was said to be a derivation from the more ancient title of Cromleagh, an Ossianic appel- lation, meaning, according to this pamphlet, high- hill. It was, however, well known, and never ei- ther questioned or denied, that the word Crumlin is a corruption of Camlin, which signifies the crooked or winding water. Before he ventured on so very minute accounts of the topography of our country, this aoute antiquary should certainly, as in duty bound, have read and studied with peeulinr care those three invaluable volumes which have been compiled on the Statistics of Ireland, in the second of which, and in the survey of the parish in question, he will find evidence sufficient to make him retract his opinion. It is there shown that Crumlin is de- rived from Camlin and not from Cromleagh, and no one certainly will be disposed to deny that Camlin and Cromleagh have as little resemblance to each other as could possibly exist between two words which begin with the same letter, without taking at all into consideration the contradiction that one sig- nifies a portion of land, and the other, water. Another argument is derived from the frequent mention which is made in Ossian, of four grey stones being placed as tombs over the illustrious dead. In- numerable, says the author of this pamphlet, are the monuments of this kind, which are to be met with in travelling among these hills. I have never ob- served, among the mountains in this or the neigh- bouring parishes, four grey stones, in any regular or uniform position. Exclusively of the cairns, there may be seen, generally in the rocky districts of the mountains, several little heaps of stones ; sometimes more than four, as often, perhaps, less, but always, if I may trust my own judgment, con- gregated together by some shock of nature. f 2 •226 Though it is perhaps digressing' too far from the object of the present work, to dwell any longer on this subject,'especially as the strongest proofs against it are drawn from the internal evidence of the poems themselves, I cannot refrain from making a very few farther observations on the other coincidences which have been advanced in support of go rare a system. There seems then to be much stress laid on a passage in the Fourth Book of Fingal, inasmuch as The hiii Pf th e appearance of a place called the Sandy Braes, Mora and the _ . sindy Brae* beside L onnor, agrees with the description given by Ossian of the hill of Mora. The writer of these remarks has never seen either Connor or the Sandy Braes, but having referred to an evidence equally undeniable, it has been found that the " Celtic an- tiquary" has inadvertently misquoted his author, and presented us with a sentence on which to rest his argument, not much different in words, but widely dissimilar in meaning, from that which has been found in four different editions of Ossian's poems. In the pamphlet it is thus worded ; "as the winds of night pour their dark ocean over the white sands of Mora," &c. This language is figu- rative; the words, "their dark ocean," are here applied to the air, and might afford some shadow of authority for imagining that the hill of the Sandy Braes, which has also, it is said, a hoary summit, 227 was here described. But expressed in the following manner in all the editions which have come under my observation, the phrase, though still metapho- rical, is distinct and obvious in its meaning : " as the winds of night pour the ocean over the white sands of Mora," &c. The poet makes a clear com- parison between the waves of the sea driven with violence on the white sandy shore of Mora, and " the sons of Lochlin" advancing to the strife. The hill pitched on, in this pamphlet, as the Mora of Os- sian, is many miles from the sea. Besides, there in no evidence whatever to show that the sands of Mo- ra were at, or near the ground where the host of Fin- gal was assembled, which is represented as in Ire- land. Ossian is giving no description of the coun- try, but rather glances at the word to complete his simile ; and it seems that there were other places, as well as that which is mentioned in Fingal, distin- guished by the name of Mora, so that it is doubtful to which of them the poet may have alluded. In the poem of " Conlath and Cuthona," the dwelling of the former in Scotland is called Mora. In Berra- thon, Ossian himself, feelingly and beautifully la- menting the decay of his vigour, exclaims, " be- side the stone of Mora I shall fall asleep ;" plainly intimating a place in his own country, which was dear and familiar to his mind by important or de- lightful associations. These circumstances, how- ever, are merely noticed, for it is impossible that a 228 reader could believe that Mora was any where but on the sea coast ; and if the words of the poems can be altered in the manner which has certainly been done in this case, the controversy may soon be ami- cably decided. As it would, however, be by no means proper that this knotty point should rest in its present obscurity, it surely behoves the " Celtic antiquary" to re-examine the original manuscripts, as he is doubtless one of the perpetual trustees to whose especial custody the precious deposits are in- trusted. The Six-mile- •water, the Lunar of Ossian. The river called the Six-mile-water has also been discovered to be the Lubar of Ossian. The poems do not appear in the least to strengthen such a supposition ; and in a note to the Fifth Book of Temora, there is an explanation of the text which makes the river Lubar fall into the sea. The Six- mile-water runs into Lough Neagh. In an ex- cellent " Sketch of the Road from Belfast to An- trim," written by a person who seems to be ex- tremely well acquainted with the antiquities of the country, this stream is called Owen Neview, or the river of the woods.* Moilena'* bay, &c. The heath of Moilena has likewise been noted as a district near Lough Neagh. It is impossible to « See lIjc Belfast Magazine, v. iii. p. 276, 229 reconcile such an account with some expressions in the poems, and particularly with that poetical phrase, "we rushed into Moilena's bay." Moilena is far from the ocean. Much more to the same effect might be brought forward, were it proper to enter into longer trains of argument, or to examine the poems and the country, with more minuteness. The digression, however, has already been too extended, though fully sufficient, it is presumed, to show how untena- ble, and how absurd, are the proofs adduced in this pamphlet. Instead of confirming the victory of " the Ossianites," they prove, that the cause which has recourse to arguments so remote, and, at best, so unsatisfactory, rests on a most weak and totter- ing foundation,* * It is necessary to mention, (hat these remarks on Ossiano have been made from the critique and extracts of the Literary Gazette ; and if the author of the production have been reprehended with jus- tice, certainly the critic, who has chimed in to all his errors, should participate in the censure. The Literary Gazette affirms that the proofs of the pamphleteer go to demonstrate, (the evidence is mathe- matical beyond all question) not the arrival of Fingal in Ulster, but the extent of his progress, a? well as the reality of his achievements ; and that the only difficulty arises from too partial an acquaintance with the country, while the absurdity of some of the arguments in Ossiano might have been shown without any knowledge whatever of the province of Ulster. Since writing the preceding remarks, I have seen in different publi- cations, an advertisement, purporting, that the author of Ossiano has completed his tour of the Highlands of Scotland, and the North of Ireland ; and that he is about to republish the poems of his favourite bard, with geographical notes, illustrative of the scenery, topopraphy, and localities of the father of British poets. The invaluable present has already been made to the curious public, 230 mlwriu " 8 Though it may be impossible to prove, therefore, from any analogy existing between the poems of Os- sian and the surrounding country, that this has been the scene of Fin gal's exploits, still, it cannot be questioned, from the situation and appearance of these mountains, that they have been places of mo- ment in days of yore. We may therefore truly en- vy the feelings of him, who, while roving on these hills, imagines that he treads in the footsteps of Cu- thullin, or gazes on those rocks which have echoed the warblings of " the sweet sounding voice of Co- na." The ardour of a summer's sun ; the intensity of a winter's storm, will produce a world of images. Thought may range far and freely ; may conjure up a hero's shade on every eminence, or a bardic song on every breeze. We may behold with admiration, or with awe, the same scene which thousands of our race, in various stages of civilization, have beheld with wonder or indifference ; the same rocks, and dells, and plains, where they have rioted in savage conviviality, or chaced the fierce prey of the moun- tain and the forest with fearless courage. If it be but as it had unfortunately not found its way to this part of the country when these sheets were put to press, curiosity must for a short time be restrained, though, no doubt, all the pithy arguments contained in Ossiaoo, with many others of equal cogency, are again presented to the world, with " new dresses and decorations ;" all deep enough, the author I suppose presumes, to satisfy the cravings of such as desire nothing but novelty, or the capacities of those who are to be pleased with plausible nonsense 231 true that the imagination may be enriched by the contemplation of striking or of memorable objects, then will this place warm the fancy and temper the enthusiasm of the poet's mind. These, however, are not thoughts for every day T s consideration ; and though it would be curious to speculate upon such topics, the distant murmur of some water-wheel or beetling engine might inter- rupt the romantic reverie. Nor would an acquaint- ance with the people tend to revive it. They are al- together a new stock ; they know nothing of the for- mer state or history of those whom their forefathers dispossessed. Some of the old and more inquisitive may be able to point out the haunts of the robbers of former times ; and particularly, the dens of that most celebrated of all the Irish rapparees, Redmond O'Hanlon. But those legends and traditions which the true Irish so fondly cherish ; which enthusiasm has continued to preserve, amidst the impetuous ex- terminations of war, or the more silent ravages of oblivion ; which some can still deliver in regular numbers, and with all the wildness of untaught ora- tors, are here totally unknown, their place being sup- plied by more important thoughts, and more momen- tous avocations. 232 Antiquities. This parish contains none of those magnificent remains of antiquity, to which the diversified scene- ry of Ireland 13 so greatly indebted for its beauty ; and which hare so much contributed to strengthen the opinion, generally received, of its former cele- brity. But though these may be wanting, there still exist ample materials for curious and original discussion ; equally illustrative of the early state of this island, and not less replete with interesting and valuable reflections. The caves with which the county of Antrim abounds, and of which there are several in this parish, become properly the first objects of investigation, as they are perhaps of more early origin than any other works which our rude ancestors have left. The most ancient are formed in the earth, and these, it is rea- sonable to suppose, are of greater antiquity than the more celebrated caverns which have been hewn out of the rocks of the Cave hill, and some other basaltic mountains in this county. Of the former descrip- tion there are several here, but none of them in a perfect state. There is one on Wolf hill, about three miles west of Belfast, and which is not connected with any other artificial work. It was accidentally discovered more than thirty years ago, and was then so deep that a man could stand upright in it. In 233 consequence, of the quantities of earth and stones thrown in at the different openings which have been made, its depth has been diminished to little more than two feet. The breadth of this cave, from the opposite sides, is about a yard, and its extent must have been very considerable, as there are now four apertures, the two most distant of which are upwards of thirty feet asunder. It appears to have been constructed by digging a deep trench in the earth, the sides of which have been neatly built up with stones, and then covered with large flat flags, which are still only a few inches distant from the surface of the ground. There is another cave, of a similar kind, situated on a hill in the neighbouring townland of Ballymacgarry. There was an en- trance from the top, one of the flat stones which formed its roof having been removed. This, how- ever, was again replaced, and the only spot which remains for the admission of the inquisitive adven- turer is wet and inconvenient. It has been frequently explored, and there is an exaggerat- ed account, that no person has yet penetrated to its termination. The depth of this cave is rather greater than that on Wolf hill, its sides are as smoothly built, and the covering equally flat and massive. Both of them are considerably muti- lated, and there may be seen, in different parts of the parish, several others in a less perfect condi- g 2 234 tion, and which will soon, it is probable, he utterly defaced. There is one, however, more complete and extensive than either of those which have been men- tioned, situated at Hannahstown, in afield adjoin- ing the chapel. It was searched for concealed pikes at the time of the last rebellion, and afterwards, by order of the magistrate who attended, carefully closed i Since that period, some of the upper stones have, on several occasions, been removed to gratify the curious, but the place is now again entirely shut, and when last I saw it, was covered with a crop of luxuriant corn. From the accounts of the country people, it has several branches or apartments ; and the construction is exactly the same with those al- ready described. Small caves are generally found in those circular enclosures, called Danish forts ; but it is remarkable, that none of the three which have been noticed are in connection with any other artificial remains. In the numerous forts, which the parish contains, there are many cavities, or rather funnels, of a smaller size than the preced- ing, but bearing a close resemblance to them in every other respect. curioutcaves In that mountain called the Cave hill there are in the Cave three caverns, much larger than those just mentioned, and different from them in several other particulars. They are all hollowed out of an immense basaltic cliff, being entirely, or at least very nearly, the work hill 235 of art. There may have been at first small excava- tions, but the mark of the chissel, especially in the second, is plainly discernible. That which is first, or lowest in the rock, is eighteen feet in breadth, from the entrance to the opposite side ; twenty -one feet in length, and varying in height, from seven feet to eleven. The second cave is situated a few yards higher in the same cliff, and is of a smaller size, being almost nine feet in length, seven in breadth, and scarcely six in height. Farther up the rock again, is the third cave, which is much more capacious and curious. Its situation, from the perpendicularity of the ascent, and the deficiency of natural supports to assist in the attempt, would deter most persons from undertaking a journey which is truly peri- lous. From the concurring testimony of dif- ferent adventurous individuals by whom it has been reached and examined, it is said to consist of two apartments. Of these, the outer is nearly of the same dimensions with the first cave. From this room there branches a narrow passage to the left, terminating in a steep, abrupt descent of two or three yards, and leading to a second chamber, is of still greater extent, and more smoothly cut than any of the others. It is almost thirty feet long, sixteen broad, and more than seven high. At its extremity is a large chink or outlet, scarcely sufficient for the admittance of the human body. This opening shews that the cave does not pene- 236 trate far into the rock, and it may have served either for the purpose of letting in air, or as a more commodious situation for reconnoitring an enemy than the original entrance. The sides of the first cave are tolerably smooth, but the top is extremely rough and disjointed, being composed of stony angular projections, somewhat resembling large masses of crystallized substances. Its entrance is extremely large and unshapen, being in one place seven feet across, and presenting from a short distance a gloomy, or even a terrible appear- ance. The second cave is more smooth and circu- lar, having a small grassy platform in front ; and close beside it is another excavation in the rock, nine feet long, and about four broad. The antiquity of these caverns must be very great, and after the most diligent inquiry it has been impossible to dis- cover any tradition of the residents, or makers of such curious habitations. Some few ascribe them to the Danes ; but if questioned farther, it will be found that this is conjecture, and not tradition. Ex- cept the third, they could not have afforded any se- cure concealment. The first is low in situation, and is visible almost at the distance of two miles. Nor is there at present any traditional evidence to sup- port the assertion, that Cuthullin once resided in these caves, this being, indeed, a species of proof, 237 which among the present inhabitants would not be very likely to exist. With respect, however, to the uses of those caves Uses,&c or r ' ' the caves. which have been dug in the earth, various supposi- tions have been made. It is well known that the ancient Germans, Britons, .and Irish used what might properly be translated earth habitations, and which are commonly supposed to have been in win- ter their permanent residence. Sir James Ware and Molyneux oppose the opinion, that the caves or vaults in forts could ever have served for dwellings, because of their extreme narrowness, and the want of any passage for light or smoke, but rather for store-houses or places of temporary concealment. This account is very rational, though there are cer- tainly many dens formed in the earth in different parts of Ireland, which, from their size and several other satisfactory proofs, have undoubtedly been in- habited. Except those in the Cave hill, there are none here capable at present of affording any of the conveniencies which would be required in such cases. It is most probable, indeed, that the ancient Irish lived only in the larger caves ; and those in this parish, from their size, structure, and command- ing situations, seem rather to have been used as places of concealment or ambuscade. That on Wolf hill is completely adapted for such a purpose, and a view of the surrounding country might be ob- 238 iained from it by a person entirely hidden from ob- servation. But they may also have been applied, on different occasions, to various uses. One which was discovered some years ago in this parish, but which is now destroyed, contained a number of bones resembling those of sheep. It has likewise been conjectured, and probably with truth, that they have in later times been chiefly service- able for securing from plunder the corn and other provisions of the poorer Irish during the wars which so long agitated this kingdom. The low forts, generally said to have been con- structed by the Danes, or considered at least as mili- tary antiquities, are found in extraordinary numbers in this parish. They are most frequently situated between the town of Belfast and the mountains, and are particularly numerous at the foot of Squire's hill. In general, they are low and circular, either surrounded with trenches, or retaining marks of having been formerly possessed of such defences, which remain in some cases so complete as to be yet filled with water. With the exception of Mac Art's Fort there are none here remarkable for their size. They are not more than from five to twelve feet in height, and always lower towards the centre than at the outer side. Their number, in particular places, the caves or holes which many of them contain, and the fine views which they universally command, are 2-1 e 5-1 ; M i- N -: g E K3 XI 239 probably all, as to their external appearance, which will now attract the attention of the curious ob- server. The celebrated Mac Art's Fort, on the Cave hill, mm Arts is the largest and best known in this parish. There is, however, neither record or tradition to in- form us when or by whom it was made. Many Chieftains of the name of Mac Art, belonging to the O'Neil family, who so long possessed this country, are mentioned in Irish history, so that it has proba- bly been constructed by one of these for protection and defence. This fort is partly natural, and partly artificial, a high and perpendicular basaltic rock composing one of its sides, the other being formed in the same manner as those at the foot of the moun- tains, but with the ditch and trench of vastly greater depth. The summit is neither smooth nor circular. The edges, particularly next the rock, are broken and uneven ; but the whole circumference, as well as it can be calculated, is about two hundred yards.* * Near the centre is a large hole of a dry gravelly soil, called the Giant's Punch Bowl, a very incongruous name. The punch bowl, however, has lately received a vast addition to its dimensions, owing to the havoc of a certain adventurer, assisted by a number of persons unknown, who heard, or dreamed, or fancied that they were destined to be the discoverers of hidden treasure. This was the greatest of se- veral attempts that had been made in the same place, and for the same purpose. For one whole day spades, mattocks, and shovels were in requisition ; the labour was vast; the hopes were great ; now elevated ; now depressed. The rocks re-echoed to the lusty stroke ; the spirit of Cuthullin stood aghast ; the " misty Cromla" had never 240 The fort itself is a conspicuous object to the country for many miles around, and its formation has un- doubtedly cost vast labour. The passage across the ditch is still of great height and solidity, and has been made by leaving part qf the ground remaining when the fosse was dug. As a place of security it must have been of great importance, and the side which is formed of rocks would, in early times, even if weakly defended, have been totally impregnable. The situation is not less picturesque than bold and commanding ; nor could the most watchful enemy approach, either by sea or land, without attracting observation from its stern and towering summit. Fort Wiiiiam. There is one fort in this parish of a very different nature from all the rest, both in point of shape and date. It is about sixty feet square, and furnished not only with a deep ditch, but with bastions or flank- ers at the corners. It is situated near the shore, one mile and a half from Belfast, and, according to tradition, was an intrenchment thrown up by King William in his progress through this kingdom. Close beside this fort is another of the more ancient kind, with a cave in the centre, which has never been explored, being generally filled with water. seen such doings ; and the news soon spread " over Lena's rustling heath." It was the effort of a day, and nothing more ; " gloomy and sad" returned the hero of the piece, and his coadjutors followed, " hamming surly songs." 241 The universal tradition which attributes these forts to the Danes, is probably, in part at least, cor- rect. We know, however, from the researches of antiquaries, that they were also made by the Irish, both before and after the arrival of these invaders. From various circumstances, there is reason to think that the smaller forts were not used either by Irish or Danes as stations of defence. Their situation, in general, could not have been very favourable for such a purpose ; nor could they from their lowness and small size have either opposed, for any length of time, the progress of assailants, or accommodated a sufficient number of men to repel their attacks. It would have been by no means judicious for the car- rying on of a defensive war to have relied on fortifica- tions, too numerous and inconsiderable, to offer any effectual resistance. It is a common observation, that from one, another may be seen, a circumstance which certainly indicates, that their use has been rather for peace than war. The earth of which they are composed is always extremely black and rich ; domestic utensils are occasionally found at them, which prove, at least, that they have not been tem- porary habitations. Besides, in times when peace and safety were best to be procured by strength, it is natural to think that forts or elevations of this kind would present the most simple and most commodi- ous places of security. A petty chief might collect h 2 Origin, &c. of the forts. 242 at night his dependants and cattle into one of these, and, protected by a pallisade of wicker work, and by the vicinity of many neighbours simi- larly situated, might rest in freedom from any great or immediate danger.* This opinion is not new, but will perhaps be found more generally satisfactory than any which has yet been offered . The various sizes of these forts too might be ac- counted for by supposing them to have been pos- sessed by chiefs of different degrees of power and authority. Though it may appear then that most of them have been originally made for habitations, it by no means follows that the larger raths have not often or entirely served as military stations. stoneanow Detached pieces of antiquity, belonging properly to the remote and barbarous periods of Irish his- tory, are also found here in great numbers. The most common, and probably the most ancient, are • There are often found branches of trees in the ditches of forts, which is a strong corroboration of the opinion above expressed. A new conjecture, however, has lately been made as to their use, which certainly seems very improbable. In that excellent Account of Glenavy, &c. in tbe Second Volume of Mason's Statistical Survey of Ireland, it is said that these forts were similar to our present cha- pels of ease, for the convenience of those who were distant from the great temples. Nothing surely could be more wildly hypothetical than this. It is altogether impossible that they could have been in- tended for religious purposes, their number is so amazingly great. It is usual to hear persons observe that not a farm is without one ; and I have seen in this parish two in a single field of no great size. If such a supposition could be established, it would form a weighty argument in favour of Mr* O'Halloran's opinion, that this island was called Insula Sanctorum before the introduction of Christianity. htads. 243 stone arrow-heads. That these were used in war, their appearance, their number, and the practice of the American savages at this day, would seem in- disputably to prove. It would be difficult, however, to convince many persons of this truth. They are sharp at the point, and though rough, or even some- what indented at the edges, would from their weight, if sent with velocity, inflict a dangerous wound. They are of different sizes, commonly about an inch in length, sometimes two ; while others again are so extremely small and thin, though still well proportioned, that they could have little iufluence on the human body, and may perhaps have been used for the destruction of birds, or other small animals. Many of these weapons are consi- derably polished, and when in a perfect state, have always a part of the flint projecting by which they might be attached to the arrows. There are some, however, occasionally procured of a very different kind, exactly resembling a lozenge in shape, though in other respects similar to the former, and possess- ing as many varieties of size. Hatchets of stone are also found in this parish, but stone hatchets are not so numerous as the former. They are some- times made of white flint, but more frequently of a black close grained stone, which is often so smooth as to render it probable tint the instruments have been formed, or at least finished, by friction. They ftc 244 are often mistaken for weavers' rub-stones, a pur- pose indeed to which they are in many cases ap- plied ; but from their shape, and the sharpness which they still retain, have undoubtedly been used as offensive weapons. Biazcn ceits, The brazen celts, which have occasioned so much disputation, are probably of a less ancient date. The instruments to which this name is sometimes re- stricted, are much longer than modern hatchets, in proportion to their breadth, and are without any hole by which they might be affixed to a shaft or handle. There is a sort of groove at the top, on each of the flat sides, by which it is rendered doubtful in what manner they have been used, whether for thrusting like a sword, or striking as an axe. These celts vary greatly in their form and appearance, many being flat, and having no grooves on their sides. There are also other warlike weapons very diffe- rent in shape, but made of the same metal. The most common bear a considerable resemblance to hatchets, but are of greater breadth, and furnished with sockets so deep and large, as to make the in- struments almost entirely hollow. There is like- wise a kind of hook or ring attached to them, which, it has been conjectured, was intended for stringing a number together ; or more probably, to hold a thong, for the purpose of drawing back the weapon when engaged with an enemy in close combat 245 The common celts, are most frequently discover- ed in this parish. The substance of which they are composed is extremely hard, and, except steel, takes perhaps an edge of greater keenness than any metal of modern times. It will next be necessary to notice the Danes' Danes pipes pipes, which are found here in amazing numbers, generally in the ditches of old forts. They are made of clay, and are not so long as those used at pre- sent. The bowl or cup, however, is considerably larger, and grows gradually smaller from the middle towards the two ends. If these pipes were intended for smoking, their astonishing number would cer- tainly seem to imply an overwhelming swarm of in- vaders, or that the practice was common among the whole inhabitants of the country.* Quern stones also are sometimes dug up in this parish. They have an exact resemblance to the shape of a common grinding stone, for which they • If these pipes belonged to the Danes, as their name would ap- pear to prove, it is another proof of the universality and antiquity of that most absurd of all practices, smoking. If this be the case, it be- comes a matter worthy of the inquiry of the antiquary, what root or herb was used for the purpose. Though they come under the deno- mination of cutties, and from their shortness are rather inconvenient, they have been repeatedly tried, and have been found, to use a tech- nical term, to draw to admiration. From the shape of the bowl this might be expected ; but it is certainly a curious subjeet of specula- tion, to see a civilized man of the present age, using for the same purpose, the very instrument which had graced the mouth of a sa- vage a thousand years before. 246 are often substituted ; and it has been ascertained, that they have been used for the bruising of corn before the invention of more expeditious mills. cairns. There was formerly a cairn on the top of each pf the high mountains in this parish. They do not ap- pear in general to have been large originally, and at present are much disfigured, the outer stones being removed for building ditches. There is a monument of this kind on the Cave hill, one on Squire's hill, another on Colin-ward, and a fourth on the Black mountain, called the Giant's Grave. This latr ter is nearly destroyed ; but, according to the testi- mony of several persons, the place resembled a large grave, with a headstone, which is still to be seen, marked with several strokes, both perpendicular and horizontal. But the largest cairn which the parish contains, is near its western extremity, on a hill beyond Devis. It is called Cam Sean Buidhe, or the Cairn of Yellow John, and is probably the rude mausoleum of some unremembered chieftain, who has been great and mighty in his day. Antiquity Much has been written to show the antiquity and ami uses, &c. of caims. uses f these cairns, as well as their agreement with similar memorials among all the ancient nations of the world. There is not a doubt of their having been used, at least on many occasions, as cemetries for the dead. The most direct and unanswerable 247 proof in support of this is derived from the fact, that they often contain human bones, and other emblems of mortality. This, however, does not prove that their uses may not have been various, or that heaps of stones were uot raised in rude ages for puqjoses altogether different. The cairn on the Cave hill, for instance, is ascribed by tradition to have been erected for the commemoration of a battle which was fought at the place where it stands. Just on the borders of this parish, but rather in Templepatrick, are the remains of a very considerable monument of this kind called Cat Cairn, or The Heap of Battle. It is not situated on an eminence, like the others which have been mentioned, but in a level plain be- tween the Glen hill and another low mountain in the parish of Templepatrick. The place is well chosen for a field of battle. The two parties might have en- camped on opposite heights, and descended into the small plain, which is large enough for a few hundred men to engage. The stones may have been after- wards heaped up, not only to serve as a tomb for the slain, but as a memorial of the conflict. There is a second cairn adjoining this, but of a much smal- ler size, and probably covering either some warrior whose achievements merited particular honour, or else been raised over the remains of that party which conquered or which was vanquished in the conflict. There is no tradition to inform us when this battle was fought, but it has certainly been at some very Ecclesiastical antiquities. Shankill church. 248 remote period. The greater part of the stones have been removed for enclosures, but the ground around it is yet unbroken by the husbandman. There are many arguments brought forward, particularly by Mr. Harris, to show that cairns have been raised for the establishment of co- venants, federal sanctions, and several other civil and religious purposes. His proofs are certainly both striking and cogent ; and though cairns have undoubtedly been in many, perhaps in most cases, rude sepulchres, they may often have been conse- crated also by religious rites, and from the situations in which they are generally erected, must have kept the importance, as well as the greatness of the events which produced them, in strong and perpetual re- membrance. Of ecclesiastical antiquities this parish is at pre- sent remarkably barren. It was not, however, al- ways in such a state, though it never contained any abbey or monastery. The principal religious edi- fice that belonged to this place, but of which not a vestige has existed within the memory of any per- son living, was the Church at Shankill, about a mile north west from Belfast. It was formerly called the Church of St. Patrick, at the White Ford, and from this name is supposed to have been founded by our tutelar apostle. It was also denominated Shankill 249 or the Old Church, to distinguish it from others in the neighbourhood. Previous to the Reformation it had been attached to the Priory of Down ; and af- ter that event to the Deanery of Clandermont.* The only relic which now remains of its existence is a weighty stone sunk in the earth of the grave- yard, out of which is cut a large circular cavity. This is said by tradition to have been the font ; and as it is generally filled with water, the power of healing trifling diseases is superstitiously attri- buted to it by some old people, f * The authority for these curious particulars is a Terrier or Ledger Book, in manuscript, of the Bishopric of Down and Connor, written about the year 1604, shewing the state of the diocese at that period. The words are " Ecclesia de St. Patricii de vado albo — the Prior of Downe hath it — six alterages — and the Church is called Shankill — The Vicar pays in Proxs. lOsh, in Refecns. lOsh. Synods. 2 sh." The above appellation of the " white ford" is partly explained by the circumstance, that a small stream runs beside the place where the church formerly stood. There is now a bridge over this river, which, when a ford, either flowed near a white limestone bottom, or it has received the title from some other of those trifling but now for- gotten causes from which the names of places generally originate, f From its situation this ancient relic may very soon be covered with earth, and probably to the present age altogether lost, so that it might be well worth the attention of the curious to have it raised up and preserved. I have been informed by a staunch Catholic, that such an attempt was made a great many years ago by some of his Pro- testant brethren, but that, though no visible power prevented them, and though the stone appeared to be neither very large nor very heavy, they were obliged, in a short time, to desist and fly, from the unceremonious interference of agents, similar to that which prostrat- ed the dwarf of song when trying to undo the clasps of Michael Scott's Book. Though it is mentioned above that no part of the church remains, an enormous foundation stone was discovered last year in making a grave. It was of so great a size that it required to be blasted with gunpowder. i 2 250 The ancient burying place called Friar's Bush, about a mile south from Belfast, was also the site of a religious house, which has been long destroy- ed. In Gough's Camden we are told, that St. Darerca, a sister of St. Patrick, was abbess of a nunnery in Linn, a spacious plain near Carrickfer- gus, pleasantly seated on the river Lagan. Tbis description certainly applies much better to Friar'a Bush tban to the place to which it has been some- times referred, which is near Larne, and very far distant from the Lagan. There was afterwards, however, a Chapel of Ease here, attached to Shankill, capeiude and called Capella de Kilpatrick, or the Chapel of Kilpatrick. Patrick's Church, It is thus adverted to in the Terrier: " Capella de Kilpatrick ; above Moses Hill's house, at Strondmillers (Strandmrlls) — it pays not — Shankill pays for it," &c. This Terrier throws very considerable light an the early ecclesiastical state of the parish of Belfast, and shows the importance of Shankill Church by the comparatively lengthened notice which is taken of it, particularly by the word " alterages," which oc- curs in no other part of the manuscript whatever. All the other terms in the preceding note, relative to Shankill, are well understood ; but alterages ap- pears to be of more difficult explanation. It strictly means, altars erected within parochial churches for the purpose of singing of mass for deceased friends 251 But in this case, there are some grounds for sup- posing- that the altars, oralterages, were not within the parish church, but rather at convenient dis- tances from it ; for it appears, that besides Shan- kill and Kilpatrick, there were at least three other religious houses in the parish of Belfast, and proba- bly some more which cannot now be discovered, so that the term in question had very possibly some al- lusion to these places. It is proper to mention, farther, that the word has either had different significations, or has not yet been satisfactorily explained. In a parliament held at Drogheda, in the reign of Edward IV. the Earls of Desmond and Kildare were attainted of high treason, and one of the chief crimes with which they were charged was fostering and alterage with the King's Irish enemies. In Baron Finglass's Breviate, also, there is an account of a law, by which it is made criminal for any Irishman to compel an Englishman to go to his alterage, Of these religious establishments, however, there is only one noticed in the Terrier in the following terms : " Capella de Crookmuck — the Abbots of Bangor — Shankill is the vicar and pays for it." In an Ancient Map of the County of Antrim, it is called Croach Moch, and placed in Malone, near New Forge. It is entirely impossible, how- ever, at present to discover the site of this build- 252 ing : but from that district between the town of Belfast and the Lagan river being called Cro- mack, it has been supposed that the names have some connection. Cranog. Kilwee, &c. Of the other religious edifices which formerly be- longed to this parish, the "principal was situated about two miles from Belfast, near the present Falls road. It is said to have been called Cranog, which signifies the young plantation. There is scarcely a vestige of the building in existence ; but there is a very ancient burying ground at the place, which is now known by the name of Callender's Fort. At the extremity of the parish below Suffolk House was another of these small churches. It was denominated Kilwee or the church at the burying place. There is nothing whatever known of its former state, except some traditions, that stones with crosses, and other sculptured marks, were raised at the spot ; and that the place was formerly the principal receptacle for the Roman Catholics of the adjoining mountains to bury their dead. It shows, however/ the fleeting na- ture of some traditions, that though there have been undoubtedly houses of worship at both these places, and that though it is probably not more than seventy or eighty years since they were used as grave-yards, their existence is utterly unknown, ex- 253 cept to the very old inhabitants who have lived from their infancy at the exact spot. Though this parish at present contains no castle, castles. or any other civil or military remains of antiquity, of much importance, there is reason to think that there were formerly at least five fortifications here, all however inconsiderable, except the castle of Bel- fast. Of this building, and that of which the pre- sent chapel of ease occupies the site, all the infor- mation which it has been possible to collect has al- ready been given. The next most considerable was probably Green Castle, situated more than two Greencastie. miles from Belfast, on that beautiful bank formerly described, which extends along the shore. The only fragment of this castle is apiece of thick Avail, overgrown with ivy, nor does the building appear to have been at any time of much magnitude. It seems to have formed rather a fortified camp of great size, being surrounded for a considerable distance with very high and deep outworks, or intrenchraents of earth. Very little is known of its history.* It is marked in Speed's Maps under the name of Benma- digang, a corrupt Irish term signifying " Eoghain's * In the County Survey, it is stated, in giving an account of this place, that a law was passed to prohibit any but an Englishman from being governor of Greencastie. This, however, is an error, as the or- der mentioned did not allude to the small building in this county, but to Greencastie in the county of Down, as will be seen by refer'- ring to Harris's History, p. 12. 254 habitation on the level head land." This not only describes the situation of the place, but renders it probable that it had been built or occupied by an Irish chief of that name, and the adjoining townland is still called Ballyaghagain, cjHtieCombe. Where Shaw's bridge now crosses the Lagan, there was formerly a ford, which was secured in an- cient times by two high forts, still to be seen on each bank of the river. There was afterwards a castle of lime and stone, built probably by the English on the western side near Malone House, but of which very little can be told. In 1610 it was called Freerstone, and was a place of considerable consequence. It had been granted to some of Eli- zabeth's officers, but probably fell into disuse and ruins, when the peace of the country introduced more commodious and ornamental dwellings. The name by which it was last known was Castle Combe, but the principal part of the walls was removed at an early period for the erection of Shaw's bridge, as formerly stated. castie at There was another building of a similar kind nt Strandraille. ° Strandmills, possessed by some of the Hill family. It also has been long since entirely demolished, though some of the old inhabitants recollect the ruins of walls or arches, which had received from tradi- tion the name of" Sir Moses's Cellars." There are no coins of a very ancient date found coins, here. Those of Edward I. and II. occasionally oc- cur. Some years ago, in a field which did not ap- pear to have been ever ploughed, and in a black spot which had probably been the site of a house, there were discovered about a dozen silver pennies of one of these kings. Coins of Henry VIII. Eliza- beth, James I. and Charles I. are very numerous. Many pieces of Louis XIII. are also found, made of coppsr, less than a farthing in size, and gene- rally dated 1640-41-42. These coins, but more par- ticularly those of Elizabeth, are generally found in lots, and often mixed with Spanish money of rude workmanship. There have not been, as far as is known, any unique pieces of antiquity met with in this parish, which could be mentioned on unexceptionable au- thority. Our bogs, as might be expected from their high situation, contain none of those remark- able artificial remains which are sometimes disco- vered in such places. Notwithstanding these cir- cumstances, however, and though the place cannot boast of any abbey, castle, or other magnificent ruin, it yet presents many relics of antiquity, well merit- ing the attention of those who are inclined to specu- late on such interesting and instructive topics. 256 Account of To extend this part of the subject, and to render some remark- * " ' ti b el e in n tne U1 " it more generally interesting, it has been thought neighbour- fa st d paruh 1 " suitable to enter into a brief account of some re- markable antiquities in the neighbourhood of Bel- fast parish, because the inquiry is, to use very little liberty of expression, wholly original, and because the objects of it deserve to be rescued from that ne- glect in which they have hitherto been suffered to remain. The most striking antiquities, perhaps, or at least on account of their number, the most deserv- ing of precedence in this place, are three of those monuments generally considered temples of druidi- cal worship, but which differ considerably from each other. Of these, the first which shall be described, Giant's Ring. i s that stupendous work, [called the Giant's Ring, in the parish of Drumbo, county of Down, and four miles from the town of Belfast. It consists of an enormous circle, perfectly level, about five hundred and eighty feet in diameter, or nearly one third of an Irish mile in circumference. This vast ring is enclosed by an immense mound or parapet of earth, upwards of eighty feet in breadth at the base, and though in the lapse, it is probable, of nearly two thousand years, the height of this bank must have much decreased, it is still so great as to hide the surrounding country, except the tops of the moun- tains, entirely from the view, and in its original state g Q u b' !> LI & 257 there is not a doubt but they also were invisible. Near the centre of the circle stands a cromlech, or rude altar of stone ; and whether the proofs that- such monuments were used in the idolatrous adora- tion of the sun be, or be not satisfactory, it is a cir- cumstance which deserves to be remembered, that the Giant's Ring would exclude from the gaze of a mistaken multitude every object but the glorious luminary himself whose beams they worshipped. It is a place which is calculated to inspire an unin- formed druid with additional superstition, or with the necessity of increased mortification ; end they who formed it had a just conception of those human feelings which are extensiye in their influence, powerful in their operation, and most deeply to be moved by external nature. The sloping stone of the altar is almost circular, being seven feet in one direction, six and a half in the other, and upwards of a foot in thickness at the edges, but in the centre considerably more. This cromlech is either very erroneously described by Mr. Harris, or its appearance has greatly altered since the year 1744. We are informed in the History of the County Down, that two ranges of pillars, each consisting of seven, support this monstrous rock, beside which there are several other stones fixed upright in the ground, at the distance of about four k 2 258 feet. Of these latter there remains hut one ; the upper stone at present rests upon four, and not up- on fourteen supporters ; the entire number which composes the altar is only ten, and though it is pro- bable that several may have fallen down, or in some other manner changed their position, it is incon- ceivable how so great a disproportion as the two accounts present could ever be reconciled. nruidicai Seven miles from the town of Belfast, in the pa- RoughFort. rish of Templepatrick, and a few perches off the high road which leads to Antrim, is a temple of a similar kind, in some respects even more curious than the former. The first stone is very little ele- vated above the surface of the ground, but followed by a number of others, which form, for the length of forty feet, a gradual ascent, ending in one of greater magnitude, raised and supported like that at the Giant's Ring. The stones of which this work is composed are not very broad, but extremely heavy, round and smooth, somewhat resembling huge pebbles. There is an account, that it was for- merly surrounded with an earthen ditch, and that very near the altar was found a large bowl or ba- sin of brass, but which was so muchcorroded that it fell to pieces in cleaning. There is no tradition which might illustrate the origin of this curious remnant of antiquity. The 259 name indeed by which it is frequently distinguished throws some light on the subject. It is often deno- minated Cam Graine, or " The heap of the Sun." Others ag*ain call it " the Giant's Grave," or " the Granny's Grave." The situation in which it stands does not present any thing remarkable, but the length adds greatly to the novelty of its appearance. Immediately adjoining stands a tall conical moat or rath, much disfigured on the summit, and a small village called Rough Fort. About five miles from Belfast, some distance to The Kemp* ' Stones. to the right of the public road leading from that town to Newtownards, there exists a monument which seems to have attracted even less observation than those which have been described. It is called the Kempe Stones, and consists of an enormous rock, eight feet and a half in length, and nearly of an equal breadth, borne in a sloping posture by three other stones ; but as one of these rests upon two additional masses, there may properly be reckoned five supporters. The two which are in front resem- ble pillars, and are overhung by the huge body which they sustain. This upper stone is in one place five feet thick, but gradually diminishes to the end, and has been computed to weigh forty tons. It might occasion considerable discussion to ^rove how so great a weight could have been raised 260 by a people ignorant of the arts. But it should be remembered, that the mechanic powers are as sim- ple as they are efficacious, and that the united ef- forts of a multitude, with the assistance of the le- ver and inclined plane, would be sufficient to elevate even a more ponderous mass. This, however, is still an amazing work, and would be attended with inconceivable labour in any age. It is much less difficult, indeed, to discover the manner of its erec- tion than the purpose for which it was intended. It might be considered at first sight a druidical altar, like that at the Giant's Ring ; but there are circum- stances to justify the opinion, that its use or origin has been in some respects different. In many parts of this kingdom, when the outer stones are removed from those cairns or heaps, which have been proved to be tombs, monuments similar to this are fre- quently discovered. Now, the place at present de- scribed was formerly of greater magnitude, the nu- merous stones of different sizes which are scattered around it on all sides, being conclusive proofs of such a statement. If it be hard to imagine why so much labour has been bestowed on what was intend- ed to be concealed, are not the pyramids of the Egyptians, and the grandeur still accompanying the inhumation of the great, sufficient answers ? and perhaps, like many other tombs or vaults, the Kempe Stones, and other piles of a similar kind, may have been altogether or partly raised during the life 261 of the person for whom they were designed. It does appear then most probable, that this now un- der consideration is one of those which the ancient Irish denominated " eternal houses." The ap- pearance of this great monument welt corresponds with such a title, and it will continue in its present state, when edifices of a more beautiful but a more fragile architecture shall have crumbled into dust. According to tradition, also, it is the tomb of a giant who was conquered, and interred at the place by a fellow-monster, the townland being called Green Graves. The name likewise bears on the same point, Kempe, in Anglo-Saxon, signifying a warrior.* With the present addition therefore to the word it may justly be considered, the stones or heap of the warrior. This part of the country is famous for its remains Mount at 4 J Dundonncll, of antiquity. At the distance of a mile from the &c ' Kempe Stones, there is one of those tall conical mounts, the uses of which are so much involved in obscurity. It is called Dundonnell, and has been the occasion of many absurd stories among the vul- gar. Not far from this, near the bank of a small rivu- let, there is a pillar, about ten feet in height, formed * Anthologia Uibcrnica, vol. i, p. 342. 262 of one rough stone, supposed by credulous people to c:over a treasure of the most precious of all metals, and to turn round every midnight at crowing of the cock. origin, &c. of The origin of these cromlechs has given rise the crom- lechs. t muc h ingenious speculation. Little new light can be thrown upon the matter, for as there is only one principal opinion which seems to be borne out by all the arguments that have been yet ad- vanced, it is not probable that any conjecture more plausible will readily be found. That they were in- tended for Druids' altars, or for some important re- ligious purpose, is the hypothesis which is generally credited ; but it is certain that the uses of the crom- lech, as well as of the cairns and pillar stones, can- not be denned in a precise, or at least in a convin- cing manner. They bear, in many respects, so much resemblance to each other, that none of them perhaps have been appropriated to any single purpose. Ma- ny strong and satisfactory proofs have been ad- duced by learned antiquaries, to show the affinity of the cairns and pillar stones with memorials accu- rately and frequently noticed in the Old Testament, and generally reared for the establishment of cove- nants of different kinds. If those commonly deno- minated Druids' altars were really designed for relU gious purposes, it is difficult to conceive in what manner sacrifice has been performed ; or, if for con- in I 263 veying instruction to an assembled multitude, why so much labour should be expended in raising struc- tures of a very inconsiderable height. When the pillar stones are formed into circular enclosures, a more specious conjecture than that they were rude temples cannot perhaps be discovered ; and it cer- tainly appears most probable, as proofs at present stand, that the Giant's Ring and the Rough Fort have beeu consecrated, in dark and distant ages, to purposes of a similar description. The only round tower, at that distance to which it Dmmbo Round is proper to extend the present investigation, is in T °wer. the parish of Drumbo, and six miles from Belfast. Its altitude is about thirty-five feet, but there is an irregularity at the top, one side being somewhat higher than the other. The lower part overhangs its base several inches ; the rest is perpendicular. There is no tradition, however, as to the time when this tower was so much reduced in size. Its diame- ter is almost nine feet, and its outer circumference, at the base, nearly eighteen yards. The walls are therefore extremely thick and massive. There are three rows of holes in the interior, at regular dis- tances ; and in the side which is highest another ca- vity, which had probably corresponding apertures when the building was complete. The entrance, the lower part of which is more than a yard from the base of the tower, is five feet eight inches in height, 264 and upwards of a foot and a half in breadth. This tower stands in a grave-yard, and there was for- merly an abbey here founded by St. Patrick, which afterwards became a church in the diocese of Down, but of which there is at present scarcely any part remaining. There are no antiquities in this kingdom which have so much perplexed the antiquaries as the round towers. Of the three old hypotheses on this sub- ject, that of their Phenician origin, though support- ed by several curious arguments, is certainly, on the whole, the most incredible. Neither of the other two, however, is at all sufficient to explain the numerous objections which may be raised against them. It is impossible that lonely ascetics, wrapt in gloomy su- perstition, and in mortified weakness, could have pos- sessed the power or the means of raising structures so vast and ponderous, when the materials were so difficult to be procured. It is, perhaps, equally pre- posterous, to imagine that our Irish ecclesiastics, so wise and shrewd in other matters, should build, or cause to be built such towers for the trifling purpose of holding bells, while they themselves were con- tented to shiver in a church of wood or wattles. Though there have been some other conjectures and arguments on the subject, particularly in a late work of much ingenuity, the inquiry is yet, and per- haps will for ever remain, in impenetrable uncertainty. s fe 4 265 The only ruin of importance, as an ecclesiastical wiuteAbbey. edifice, in the immediate vicinity of Belfast parish, is called White Abbey. It is beautifully situated near the foot of Carnmoney mountain, and not far from the sea. The ruins of this building are still considerable, and its original extent has been very great. From its state and structure there is reason to think, that this abbey once presented the form of a cross ; and the part now remaining is pro- bably the eastern wing, which is in tolerable preser- vation. It has three very long and narrow windows fronting the sea ; the wall around, and between them, is darkened with a dense growth of ivy, which communicates a solemn, but not a gloomy appear- ance. Unlike some other religious houses in this kingdom, White Abbey is not adorned with cut stone, or any other ornament. It is remarkable, however, that of this edifice, which, from its appear- ance and the number of foundations still to be traced, must have been of some importance, no par- ticulars, either respecting its founder, or any other information, have been transmitted to us, though in Speed's Map the place is largely and accurately laid down under its present name. Tradition can give no farther intelligence on the subject than that it was attached, or belonged to Woodburn ; and that the monks, when expelled at l 2 260 the Reformation from Carrickfergus abbies, came up and resided for a time here in great numbers. If this be correct, it is probable that they carried great part of their wealth with them. From the accounts of different persons, various articles, particularly coins, have been dug up in the adjoining fields ; and nearer the ruins some years ago, when raising a large stone shaped like a trough, several images of silver, and a wide shallow cup of the same metal, are said to have been discovered. There is a singular tradition respecting the place at which this abbey stands. It is believed that a great city formerly existed here, called " the city of Coole." Near the building many foundations can certainly be traced ; and great broad stones are fre- quently found forming the remains of roads covered and concealed by the earth. This tradition, like many others, is but a modern fiction engrafted on some ancient truth ; but it is now impossible to dis- unite them. Not far from this was another religious house called Monkstown, which is also, like White Abbey, unnoticed in the Monasticon, or elsewhere. It does not appear, however, at any time, to have been of much extent. There is a curious and general tra- dition among the people, that Fergus I. King of Scotland, was buried here, and some even yet pre- 267 tend to point out the spot. There is a very ancient grave-yard at this place, still occasionally used by the Roman Catholic families hi the neighbourhood. The situation of M onkstown, enclosed by a small ri- vulet, and surrounded with the remains of old or- chards and garden walls, is extremely beautiful. At the distance of two miles and a half from Bel- coiiumbkiu. fast, on the old road to Holy wood, there was for merly a religious house called Coliumbkill, which, as it is laid down by Speed, was, it is probable, ori- ginally an abbey, but afterwards converted into a church. There was attached to it a very extensive burying- place, the numerous tomb- stones of which have been, however, principally used many years ago, in flagging- a house in the neighbourhood ; and almost the only one which remains is of a very cu- rious description. Tradition positively ascribes it to have been that which covered the remains of Conn O'Neil, of Castlereagh, the most powerful chieftain of that name who resided in this part of the coun- try ; and who, from having been the last Irish pro- prietor of the parish of Belfast, requires to have his history more particularly recorded. The church was probably founded by one of Conn's predecessors, and appears, perhaps from its proximity to their castle, to have been particularly appropriated to the use of the family. It was situ- Tombstone of Coiui O'KeU. 268 ated in one of the finest and most beautiful spots in the whole county, the surface exactly resembling the rich hills of Malone. Though the place now be- longs to Holy wood, it was formerly a parish in itself, and afterwards united to Knock. The Terrier, al- ready referred to, has] the following notice on the subject : " Ecclesia de Knockcolmakill, a union, and hath half a townland in glebe, pays in prox. 5sh. Refects. 5sh. Synods. 2 sh., &c." The last part of the building was only removed some months since. There is also a great conical mount here, on the top of which is built a tall house, not less singu- lar in shape than in situation. It may be remarked, that there are four churches in this neighbourhood, Knock, Collumbkill, Dundonnel and Holywood, each of which has one of these high raths or tumuli not many yards distant. The tombstone, lying at present in an unregarded spot, is probably but a part of the original. It is a block of freestone without any lettered inscription ; but on it is very skilfully carved, in high relief, the figure of a cross, and apparently some ornamental appendages. There is another stone of the same size, built in the gable of an adjoining house, cut in a similar manner, but with rather a different image. The most curious object on this latter is a detached impression, very nearly resembling a pair of scis- 269 sors ; or rather, it has been thought, cross swords or daggers. The dwelling of this branch of the O'Neils was at Castlereagh, which was early inhabited, accord- ing to Harris, by one of the great families of that name, called Hugh Flain,* whose posterity, he informs us, enjoyed the baronies of the Great Ards, Belfast, Carrickfergus, Massereene and Toome. Its last occupant, however, of this illustrious sept was Conn, whose downfal from the possession of a prin- cipality, almost to the total extinction of his name, is as striking an example of the mutability of human affairs as many which have been held up for the wonder and instruction of mankind. It appears from the Grand Inquisition of the Account of Conn O'Neil. County Down, that in the reign of Queen Eliza- beth, this chief enjoyed, in direct possession, besides sub -territories, two hundred and forty -four town- lands, valuable for their natural excellencies at the time, and at present, it is generally thought, the most opulent and most improved part of this island. O'Neil, however, had probably been concerned in the rebellions of the period ; his large possessions were beheld with avidity by artful or necessitous ad- venturers, and a pretence perhaps eagerly desired as * Harris's Down, p. 269. 270 an excuse for spoliation. In the year 1603, he had been confined for some time, principally, it would appear, for an indiscretion on the part of his ser- vants, who had come to Belfast to purchase wine for a " grand debauch," in which he was engaged at Castlereagh with his friends and retainers. A scuffle having taken place between the servants and some soldiers, in which there is no account, however, that Conn was actively concerned, he was taken prisoner, and lodged in Carrickfergus Castle. His confinement at first was very strict ; but afterwards he was permitted to walk about the town, attended by a soldier, who delivered him to the Provost Mar- shal in the evening. In 1603 his liberation was ac- complished in the following manner : — Thomas Montgomery, the master of a Scottish " trading barque," which supplied the garrison of Carrickfer- gus with meal, wooed and wedded Alice Dobbin, the daughter of the Provost Marshal, to whose charge the prisoner was committed. It is proba ble that the plan which followed from this connec- tion had been previously concerted between the se- veral parties ; for by the assistance of some of them, and perhaps by the connivance of others, Conn was shortly after carried on board Montgomery's vessel, and conveyed to Scotland, after experiencing, doubtless, the many hair breadth escapes befitting so romantic an adventure. 271 Be that as it may, he was on his arrival in that kingdom taken under the protection of Hugh, or, as he was afterwards called, Sir Hugh Mont- gomery, the chief or laird of the person who had delivered him from captivity. Sir Hugh, how- ever, had probably been at the bottom of the whole enterprize, and though he does not appear to have been of much consequence, he had sufficient interest to procure a pardon for Conn from the monarch who had just ascended the throne. As the price of the deliverance and pardon which had been thus effected through the influence of Mont- gomery, O'Neil relinquished to him the half of his possessions. The account of the transaction, how- ever, is very obscure and intricate. Various agree- ments seem to have taken place, all of which were ratified by the crown. The abstract of the entire business is, that Conn O'Neil granted the whole of his estates to Sir James Hamilton, who had also, it is probable, some share in procuring lus enlarge- ment. Of these estates Hamilton reconveyed, as had been previously settled, considerable portions to their former owner, and to Montgomery, his principal friend and deliverer.* * This interesting account of Conn O'Neil is extracted from the MSS. of the Montgomery family, which contain much additional in- formation on the subject. The following is the abridgment of the grant of Conn's possessions to Hamilton, as expressed in the In- quisition. •* Then the King makes a grant to the said Jatnes II a- 272 But Conn seems never to have flourished af- ter this partition, but lost before his death, in dif- ferent ways, partly indeed by sale, the remainder of his property. He appears to have retained pos- session, however, of the castle of his forefathers ; and reserved, when disposing of the land in which Knockcollumbkill was situated, the right of pa- milton of all the said lands, royalties, and appurtenances, (excepting all castles, lands, &c. belonging to the Bishop of Down and Con- nor, and all lands, &c. belonging to Abbies, &c. and the Fishery of the river Lagan, and excepting all castles, lands, &c, within the ter- ritory of the Lower Claneboye, then or lately in the possession of Sir Arthur Chichester and his assigns, &c. ) to hold for ever at the rent of ;£100, as of the castle of Carrickfergus, in free and common soc- cage, and not in capite ; nor in soccnge in capite, nor by knight's service. But said James Hamilton to find Ten able horsemen, and Twenty footemen well armed, to attend for forty days on the Deputy at all Hostings in the province of Ulster. Then the King grants to the said James Hamilton a free market every Thursday at Castle- reagh, and a fair in the same place on St. John Baptist's day. and two days after every year with courts of Pye Powder, and Tolls ; and Courts Leet and Baron, within the manor of Castlereagh, &c. A free market at Bangor every Monday, and fair there on St. James the Apostle's day, and two days after. A market at Holy- wood every Wednesday, and a fair there every 2Jth of March, and two days after with Courts of Pye Powder and Tolls A market at Gray Abby every Wednesday, and fair there on St. Luke's day and two days after with Courts of Pye Powder and Tolls. The King farther grants to the said James Hamilton power to alien to any English or Scotsman, or to the blood of the English or Scotch, and not to the meer Irish (Conn O'Neal Mac Brian Fertaugh O'Neal and his heirs only excepted). That he may likewise hold two Courts Leet for the Ards; and two for Upper Claneboye; and two Courts Baron in each of the said territories on Thursday every three weeks, for sums not exceeding 40 shillings, with all privileges. That he, his heirs, and all residents be free and exonerated from all Irish Cesses, Bonaght, Coshery, and the like, and be also allowed free war- ren and free chace, &c. with liberty to import cattle and grain, and to export other goods, yarn only excepted, to any in amity with the King," &c. &c. In the same grant, v. hile describing the boundaries of Claneboye, there is the following passage : — " Towards the north and west part of said territory, the river Lagan, which runs immediately into the bay of Knockfergus, is the most known bounds of the said territory, and runs between the said territory and another parcel of territory or 273 tronage to that church. lie died some time be- tween 1612 and 1620 ; and in the year 1621, the Inquisition, when summing up the names and pos- sessions of the proprietors among whom his estate was divided, informs us that Donell O'Neil, son and heir of the late Conn, was the owner of two townlands. Of the residence of the 0'Neils,so often mention- ed in the foregoing account, there is scarcely at pre- sent one stone remaining on another. It was for- merly called Castle Claneboye, but more frequently Castlereagh, or the King's Castle, and tradition- ally, by the British settlers, the Eagle's Nest, from its situation and the power of its owners. After Accountof the decease of Conn it was inhabited by Sir Moses castie. Hill, but for what length of time has not been as- certained. It is described by Mr. Harris in 1744, as a large ruin, and built on a fort. Its final de- struction only took place a few years ago, attended with a very ludicrous circumstance, which, I have country called Maloan la fall Felvagh." This phrase means, Falvey's half division of Ma lone : i. e. Ike scanty watered plain. In another part of the Inquisition it is said, that " Conn O'Neil executed an indenture of sale, by livery of seizin, unto Thomas Hib- bots, in 1608, of ihe townland of Ballynafeagh in the Gallagh, lying between Castlereagh and the Lagan Water." The word Galla«h means the pass of submission, and at this place the O'Neils, it is pro- bable, had often exacted homage from conquered enemies or inferior chiefs. M 2 274 been credibly informed, is strictly true. The proprietor of the estate, wishing to preserve the ruined castle of so famous a sept, ordered a wall to be built round it for that purpose. The persons employed on this occasion, seeing no materials so conveniently situated as the stones of the old build- ing- itself, proceeded with great composure to de- molish the ruin, and, unaccountable as it may seem, had accomplished their work, had pulled down the castle to build the wall, before the lamentable error was discovered. Its site, about two miles distant from Belfast, commands a most extended view of the Lough and the surrounding country ; but the present state of the place, as well as the history of the family, cannot but occasion some very singular reflections. It is curious to consider, that in so short a space, the castle in which O'Neil had so long dwelt, which had been looked upon with pride and confidence, should have utterly disap- peared from the face of the earth ; that the fir tree should grow on the hearth stone at which he carous- ed with his trusty followers ; that the lands which were stocked with his friends and vassals, should now be inhabited by a race of people different in language, manners, customs, laws, name, and re- ligion,; that the ground in which his bone?, and the bones of his fathers rest, should be every year dis- turbed by the rough hand of the careless rustic ; and that his very tombstone should be the threshold of a 275 barn. Though two hundred years have rolled round since the deprivation and death of the subject of this article, there is reason to think that his lands were occupied by Scots and English, as they are at present, a century ago. Ecclesiastical State, Sfc. of the Parish of Belfast. The parish of Belfast is a vicarage, valued in Vaiueofthis vicarage at the returns from the sees of Down and Connor, to different times, &c. his Majesty's Commissioners in 1633, at £50 per annum. We learn from the same authority, that the tithes and dues received by the vicar in 1710, amounted, communibus attnis, to oflSO. The in- crease since these periods has been enormous, and, as an ecclesiastical benefice, this parish is at pre- sent extremely productive. The tithes are all coin- pounded, and often at a very high rate. The Mar- quis of Donegall is the patron, whose ancestor, Sir Arthur Chichester, obtained it about 1612, in place of Island Magee, which he had surrendered to the crown. There is a glebe house in the town of Bel- fast, and a small, though from the quality of the land, a very valuable glebe, of about twenty acres, at Shankill, where the church originally stood. There is no regular account preserved of the in- cumbents of this parish, either in the First Fruits 276 Records, or elsewhere. From that, and various other authentic sources, however, the following list has been procured ; but it has been found impossi- ble to ascertain, in all cases, the date of the induc- tion of each minister. In 1638, Simon Chichester was vicar. In 1666, Roger Jones was the incumbent. In 1696, Claudius Gilbert, F. T. C. D. was in- stituted and admitted to this vicarage. His immediate successor was probably Echlin, whose time of service has not been ascer- tained. In 1713, the Rev. William Tisdall, D. D. was vicar. In 1742, the Rev. Richard Stewart, D. D. was vicar. Rev. James Saurin* admitted 2d of June, 1747, to the vicarage of Belfast. Rev. William Bristow instituted 19th November, 1772, to the vicarage of Shankill or Belfast. Rev. Edward May instituted in 1809, to the vi- carage of Shankill, alias Belfast. Rev. Arthur Chichester Macartney instituted in 1820, to the vicarage of Belfast. * This gentleman was father of the late Attorney- General of Ire. land. 277 The oldest church document which has been dis- church docu- ments. covered is a parish register of 1638, and several succeeding years, written on parchment. It con- tains nothing remarkable, though the lists of births, deaths, and marriages are extremely copious, with the names in general very different from those of the present inhabitants. Agriculture. As the manufactures of the parish have been al- ready detailed, little now remains for investigation, except its agricultural state, which will require, on several accounts, to be treated with great brevity. The subject, indeed, it must be confessed, is both Extremesof extensive and important, and no where more de- cultivation m. serving of attention, as there are certainly few places in the kingdom where the extremes of good and bad cultivation are more observable. As the unimproved parts, however, are commonly situated on or near the mountains, the general appearance of the parish, as a nourishing agricultural district, is not much changed by their present state ; and he who traverses it will readily admit, that agricul- ture, though very far from being advanced so much as it might, is in a more promising condition than in many other places ; that with some it is highly improved, and that from such examples is fast approaching to a state of greater perfection. this nar;sh. 278 Cours* of crops, &c. Among the common farmers, the most general foundation of all their crops is potatoes. To this the greater part of their richest manure is applied, and it always precedes wheat when that grain is cultivated. This crop is principally confined to Malone.* The wheat is sometimes followed by bar- ley ; but the cultivation of this grain is extremely limited, nor is there at present any rye raised in the parish. The culture of oats is much more general than either of the preceding. It sometimes succeeds wheat, barley, or clover, but is more frequently sown on the potato ground, and often two or more years successively. The drill husbandry of potatoes is in general use among the best and most extensive farmers, though the old mode is still continued. Flax is commonly sown here after potatoes. There is no seed saved in this parish, and very little throughout the whole county. Green cro The most important of what are called green crops is clover, which is far from being so much * The improvement in the quality of Irish wheat has heen often noticed of late, and there is every probability that it will in some years rival the English, A remark of Ilapin, in the Preface to his History of England, relative to this point, is somewhat curious. " Those who say," he informs us, '• that Ireland will produce no wheat are partly mistaken ; for though the statement is correct as to the north of that island, where the people are obliged to live entirely on oatmeal, yet wheat has been known to grow in the south." 279 cultivated as its produce and its quick sale in the Belfast market would appear to require. The pre- dilection which custom has established in favour of pasture is too frequently deep rooted, though there are certainly many symptoms of improvement in this respect, in several parts of the parish. The cultivation of turnips is even less attended to than that of clover, being, with few exceptions, entirely raised for sale. The rich manures of Belfast are either used for the meadows in its vicinity, or drawn away by the farmers for their potatoes. To the facility, how- ever, which is here afforded for procuring that most useful of all manures, lime,* must in a great degree be attributed the progress which has been made in agriculture. Lime, when judiciously employed, is found to be efficacious in most kinds of ground, but the strong clay soil which so much prevails in this parish is completely adapted to its use, which is ac- cordingly in such places extensive and general. The erection of kilns by landlords, for the convenience of their tenants, would be found of mutual advantage. Oidy one instance of this kind has come under my ob- servation here, by which the farmers were enabled to * Mr. Wakefield, however, in his Statistical and Political Account of Ireland, p. 124, has inforned us, that Antrim is one of those counties in which limestone is unknown, an error so gross as to dis- play a very partial acquaintance with this part of the country. 280 provide their lime at a far more moderate rate than in any other manner. Great quantities of bog also are consumed on the mountains, and the ashes used as manure. The mud and wrack from the sea are likewise applied to the same purpose ; but the latter is preferable and in more general demand. implements. There are some thrashing machines in the pa- rish, and the other implements of husbandry are not different from those used in other places. It is proper to mention, in concluding this head, that though there are several of what are called " gentlemen farmers" in this parish, the number is not so great as might be desired and expected. As no prejudices, however, exist among them as to the infallibility of old customs, and as they enjoy the benefits of extensive capital, it will be found that the different improvements, both in the implements aud modes of cultivation, generally originate in this quarter. The common farmers have not yet a pro- per notion of the advantages, in some cases, the ne- cessity of green crops. That unprofitable and ruin- ous system of allowing ground to recover for three or four years, is far from being abandoned ; and though it is found that no land, however carefully managed, will bear for a continued number of sea- sons a perpetual succession of white crops, it is not the less true, that leaving it in wretched pasture is 281 a pernicious system. When it is intended that a course of barley, wheat, or oats shall be disconti- nued, clover and grass seed should he sown with the last crop. These will spring up the following- year, and, so far from impoverishing the soil like the grain, they will improve and enrich it. When the ground has been long under culture, it is un- doubtedly proper to introduce an intermixture of green crops, though there is perhaps not yet so great a necessity for such a measure in some parts of this kingdom as in England. Suggestions for Improvement and General Observations. Though this parish, from containing so large a town as Belfast, is not susceptible of many of those improvements which would be necessary in remote inland districts, yet still several alterations may be suggested that might materially amend its general appearance, as well as the prosperity of its inhabi- tants. It must appear obvious that great advantages Great ad»an. ° ° tapes from a would accrue to the parish if very considerable cXvfuonor • _ . . the moun- tracts or ground, on the mountains, and in their tainous land. neighbourhood, at present almost in a state of na- ture, were improved as far as they might. It cannot n 2 282 but seem strange, that land, not more than four or five miles distant from the town of Belfast, and which in some places would seem to bear marks of former cultivation, should now be lying, in many instances, entirely neglected. This circumstance can scarcely arise from any known sterility in the soil ; for though its capability of profitable or spee- dy improvement has been matter of some doubt and speculation, there are certainly several parts of the mountains, particularly near the source of the Colin water, and in the levels between the Black mountain and Devis, that are not higher nor in any respect labouring under greater disadvantages than many places which have rewarded the toil of the husband- man with an abundant harvest. The soil is gene- rally a deep turf bog, with a substratum of clay ; the whole improvements are confined to the cutting of deep drains ; and the greater part of the grass which springs up, is suffered to die and wither on the ground. But there are proofs that the intro- duction of alterations would be attended with com- plete success. The country around Hannahstown, on the lower part of the Black mountain, and in the neighbouring parish of Derriaghy, on the opposite side of Colin river, is in a state of rapid improve- ment. Local causes have given rise to this, but they prove, if proof were wanting, that the lower parts of Glen hill, Squire's hill, and several other places which are now of very little profit to their owners, would 283 also produce oats, potatoes, and clover, to the last of which the attention of improvers should be more particularly directed. The system of intermediate proprietors is also far from being unknown ; and its effects are often as injurious as in any other place. This, however, being an evil of a more general and important de- scription, need not be particularly noticed. It would likewise be extremely advantageous, if j^u gof a greater number of private roads were made in the mountainous parts of the parish. The facility of communication which might thus be afforded, would be found peculiarly beneficial to the agriculturists ; and as the number of such roads is certainly in some places on the increase, there can be no doubt but the fields adjoining them will soon display decisive marks of their utility. There is still greater scope for .improvement in FJanttaga planting and fencing. In those parts of the moun- tains which are entirely incapable of being used in any other manner, some kinds of trees might cer- tainly flourish. The banks of the numerous rivu- lets which the parish contains, should also partici- pate in such benefits, which, besides beautifying the country, and sheltering the adjacent land, would one day be valuable property. The Forth and the 284 Milewater might then be as beautiful and pictu- resque as the Colin. Greater advantages would en- sue from the more general use of enclosures. The white thorn may be seen, apparently however the remains of older bushes that have been destroyed, at a very considerable height up Squire's hill and the Black mountain. Sallow and ash are also occa- sionally found, equally elevated in situation ; and if there be any places in which none of these would thrive, the shrub elder might perhaps be substi- tuted. Embank- ments. The capability of extending the embankments along this bay should also be included under the sug- gestions for improvemeut. The Lough of Belfast, at low water, has a very unpleasing appearance ; and from its extreme shallowness, for some distance near that town, resembles rather a great moor or fen than an arm of the sea. It is evident that a vast tract might be reclaimed here, particularly as a commencement has been made. Whether the ex- periment would be profitable or not, I am unable to jud"-e ; but the vicinity of Belfast would certainly render such land, if properly managed, of great value. Notwithstanding these observations, which are merely submitted to the notice of persons more ex- perienced in such matters, an attentive considera- 285 tion of the former and present state of the parish will afford abundant proofs of the ample progress which industry and civilization have made within the last half century. Many old inhabitants well remember when the greater part of that admired district along the shore was perfectly wild and uncultivated ; and when the roads, in general paved with great flat stones, were only broad enough for the easy jour- neying of a single horse and pack-saddle, the usual mode of conveyance some seventy or eighty years ago. They look almost with amazement on the ac- commodations and innovations which modern times have produced, and wonder how men lived in the days of their grandfathers. The houses in which their infancy was spent are become inconvenient or old fashioned ; the practices which their youth had considered as perfect will soon be neglected, or for- gotten ; and Avken altogether divested of the fresh- ness of present years, will be investigated like the customs of some rude and distant clime. Such will be the case too with a future generation ; new beau- ties, new improvements will arise, and a wiser race will discontinue or despise those systems and opi- nions, which our parish worthies, that now are, may deem consummate and unalterable. APPENDIX. No. I. List of tfie Members of Parliament for the Borough of Belfast, from 1613 to the present time. 1613 Sir John Blennerhasset, Knight- George Trevillian, Esq. 1639 Sir William Wray. Knight and Baronet. George Ravrdon, Esq. 1661 William Knight. Esq. in Legibus eruditus. Henry Davys, Esq. 1695 Hon. Charles Chichester. James Macartney, Esq. 1703 William Craffbrd, merchant. William Cairnes, of Dublin, merchant. 1709 William Crafford, merchant. Samuel Ogle, Esq. in place of W. Cairnes. deceased. 1713 Robert Moore, Esq. Antony Atkinson, Esq. 1715 Hon. Capel Moore. George Macartney, Esq. By another Indenture. Hon. John Itcbingbam Chichester. George Macartney, Esq. 1721 George Macartney, Esq. George Macartney, junior. Esq. in place of the Hon. J. I. Chichester, deceased. 1725 George Macartney, Esq. Hon. John Chichester, in place of G. Macartney, Esq, deceased. 1727 Hon. David John Barry. George Macartney, Bsq. 288 1745 George Macartney, Esq. Hon. John Chichester. 1747 George Macartney, Esq. William Macartney, Esq. 1757 William Macartney, Esq. Hon. Arthur Barry, in the room of G. Macart- ney, deceased. 1761 Hon. John Chichester John Ludford, Esq. 1769 Hon. Henry Skeffington. George Hamilton, Esq. 1776 Hon. Henry Skeffington, Barry Yelverton, Esq. 1777 Hon. Henry Skeffington. Alexander Crookshank, E c q. in the r«om of Barry Yelverton, who made his election for the coun- ty and town of Carrickfergus. 1784 Hon. Henry Skeffington. Hon. Joseph Hewit. 1791 Hon. Henry Skeffington. Sir William Godfrey. 1797 Right Hon. Lord Spencer Chichester. George Crookshank, Esq 1798 George Crookshank, Esq. Alexander Hamilton, Esq. 1800 Edward May, Esq. John Congrcve, junior, Esq. 1801 Edward May, Esq. 1814 Sir Stephen May. 1818 Arthur Chichester, E=>q. 1830 Earl of Belfast. APPENDIX. No. II List of the Sovereigns of Belfast, from 1613 to tin present time. 1613 Thomas Vesey 1614 John WiUoughby. 1615 James Burr. 1616 Same. 1617 Carew Hart. 1618 Same. 1619 George Theaker. 1620 Same. 1621 1622 Edward Holmes. 1623 Same. 1624 1625 1626 Edward Holmes. 1627 Carew Hart. 1628 Edward Holmes. 1629 1630 Walter House Crymble. 1631 Lewis Thompson. 1632 Robert Foster. 1633 Thomas Brumston. 1634 Lewis Thompson. 1635 Henry Le Squire. 1636 Same. 1637 John Walker. 1638 John Leathes. 1639 Henry Le Squire. 1640 John Haddock. 1641 Thomas Harrington. 16-42 Thomas Stevenson. 1643 Thomas Theaker. 1644 Robert Foster. 1645 William Leathes. 1646 John Ash. 1647 Hugh Doake. 1648 Robert Foster. 1649 George Martin. 1650 Thonus Harrington. 1651 Same. 1652 Thomas Warring. 1653 Same. 1654 Thomas Theaker. 1655 John Leathes. 1656 Thomas Warring. 1657 William Leathes. 1653 Same. 165S Same. 1G60 Francis Meeke. 1661 John Ridgley. 1662 Same. 1663 Captain George Macartney. 1664 Same. 1665 Thomas Warring. 1666 Same. 1667 Edward Reynetts. 1668 Captain G. Macartney 1669 Same. 1670 William Warring 1671 Same. 1672 Thomas Walcott. 1673 George Macartney. 1674 Same. 1675 Hugii Eccles. 1676 Capt. Geo. Macartney. 1677 Same. 1678 Same. 1679 Same. 1680 Same. 1681 Francis Thelford. 1682 Lewis Thomson. 168.1 John Hamilton, 1681 Same. 1685 Thomas Knox. 16-*i Captain Robert Leathes. 1687 Same. 1688 Same. KSS9 Same. 1690 Same. 1691 William Lockard. 1692 James Macartney was Sovereign this year, but was removed, not being qualified according to the statute. 1693 William Crawford 1694 Same. 1695 Capt. Edward Harrisdn. 1696 Lewis Thomson. 1697 Earl of Donegal]. Robert Leathes, Deputy. 1698 ' 1699 Capt. David Smith. 1700 Same. 17'il George Macartney. 1702 John Chalmers. 1703 David Buttle. 290 170-1 1705 1706 1707 1708 170!) 1710 1711 1712 1713 1714 1715 171 6 1717 1718 1719 1720 1721 1722 >723 1724 1725 1726 1727 1728 1729 1730 1731 1732 1733 1734 1735 1736 1737 1738 1739 1740 1741 1742 1743 1744 1745 1746 1747 1748 1749 1750 1751 1752 1753 1754 1755 1756 1757 David Buttle. Resigned the rod not being qualified by the Test Act, when G. Macartney was chosen. George Macartney. Same. Same. Same. Richard Wilson. Roger Haddock. Same. Same. Hans Hamilton. James Gurnen. Same. Same. Henry Ellis. John "Carpenter. Same. Henry Ellis. Robert Le Byttt. Henry Ellis. In consequence of disputes be- tween the Donegall Family and the Burgesses there was no So- vereign this year, but by mu- tual agreement G. Macartney, junior, served. Major Geo. Macartney : Died in office, when N. Byrtt was elect- ed. Nathaniel Byrtt : Died in office, when James Macartney was chosen. James Macartney. John Clugstone. Same. Thomas Banks. John Duff. Arthur Byrtt. John Clugstone. Same. Robert Le Byrtt. Same. Margetson Saunders. Same. Same. Robert Le Byrtt. Same. John Duff. Same. Robert Le Bvrtt. Arthur Byrtt. Same. Same. John Duff. Margetson Saunders. George Macartney. Same. Same. Arthur Byrtt. John Duff: died in office. Margetson Saunders. Stewart Banks. Same. Arthur Byrtt. 1758 Stewart Banks. 1759 George Macartney. 1760 Stephen Havon. 1761 James Hamilton. 1762 Stewart Banks. 1763 George Macartney. 1764 Same. 1765 Same. 1766 Stewart Banks. 1767 George Macartnev. ' 1763 Same. 1769 James Hamilton. 1770 Stephen Havon. 1771 Stewart Banks. 1772 Shem Thompson. 1773 James Lewis. 1774 George Black. 1775 Same. 1776 Same. 1777 James Lewis. 1778 Stewart Banks. 1779 Samuel Black. 1780 Same. 1781 Same. 1782 George Black. 1783 Same. 1784 Samuel Black. 1785 George Black. 1786 Rev. William Bristow. 1787 Same. 1788 Same. 1789 Samuel Black. . 1790 Rev. William Bristow, 1791 Same. 1792 Same. 1793 Same. 1794 Same. 1795 Same. 1796 Same. 1797 John Brown. 1798 Rev. Wm. Bristow. 1799 John Brown. 1800 Same. 1904 Same. 1802 Arthur Chichester. 1803 Edward May, M. P. 1804 Same. 1805 Same. 1806 Same. 1807 Rev Edward May. 1808 Same. 1809 Edward May, M. P. 1810 Same. 1811 Rev. Edward Mav. 1812 Thomas Verner. ' 1813 Same. 1814 Same. 1815 Same 1816 Rev. Edward May. 1817 Thos. Ludt'ord Stewart, 1818 Same. 1819 Thomas Verner - 1820 Same. 1821 Same. 1822 Same, APPENDIX. No. III. Amount of the Customs, Imports and Exports of Belfast. In 1800, the Customs of » In 1808, the Customs of this Port amounted to £ 62,668 j this Pore amounted to =£318,121 In 1801 182,314 | In 1809, 425.174 In 1802 270,434 | In 1810, 521,325 In 1803, 201,180? In 1811 344,449 In 1805 228,645 j In 1814, 373,721 In 1806. 207,382 | In 1820 306,263 In 1807, 320,981 j In 1821, 386,709 The following List has been procured from the printed weekly accounts of the Imports and Exports of Belfast. It will probably be found the annual average return of the last three years, having been collected indiscriminately from the Mercantile Journals of 1819, 1820 and 1821. Inquiry has been made as to the correctness of the returns of free goods, and as linen and provisions, the principal ex- ports of Belfast, are of this description, some care has been taken to rectify any errors which might arise in consequence. It is impos- sible, however, to be strictly precise in matters of this kind ; but the list is sufficiently particular to show the very great balance of trade which remains in favour of this town. Though the goods here enu- merated are the principal articles of import and export, there is a vast variety of other merchandise of a more fluctuating or unimpor- tant nature which has been necessarily omitted. IMPORTS. 5,983 Hhds. } 307 Tierces C Sugar. 754 Barrels ) 9,639 Bales of Cotton Wool. 5,453 Ditto Alicant Barilla. 585 Tons Sicily ditto. 3,811 Casks of Pot and Pearl Ashes. 2,726 Ditto Tallow. 343 Hogsheads of Tobacco, 8,850 Chests of Tea. I Brimstone. 292 5,077 Tons of Oak Bark. 9,851 Ditto Rock Salt. 764,937 Staves. 489,516 Deals and Deal Ends, Battens and Batten Ends. 1 5,625 Pieces of American Timber. 1,803 Barrels of Rosin. 1,157 Ditto Tar. 8,684 Hogsheads (from 5th July, 1821, to 5th July, 1 822) of Flaxseed. 74,850 Tons of Coals. 1,460 Ditto Bar and Bolt > T 565 Ditto Pig { Ir0D ' 18,005 Bundles of Nail Rod > m 7,822 Bundles of Hoop J Ultt0 ' . 7 4 5