AM WHTk. A* m »-.**.■ E.J. BREHAUT BOSTONIANA CCLL^TTON STATE STREET A BEIEF ACCOUNT OF A BOSTON WAY I at IIM1 Ut,0 PRINTED FOE THE STATE STREET TRUST COMPANY BOSTON, MASS. Is. {,7 $7 COPYRIGHTED 1906 STATE STREET TRUST COMPANY 0JJW> 1Lf,l1 THE ORNAMENTS ON PAGES ONE, THIRTY- NINE AND FORTY-TWO ARE REPRODUCED FROM THE STONES MARKING THE SPOT IN STATE STREET WHERE THE BOSTON MASSACRE OCCURRED. THE ORNAMENT ON PAGE THIRTY-SIX IS A COPY OF THE TABLET ON THE BUILDING OPPOSITE THE MASSACRE fcOSTOM r RART GH&5THU1 hiUi MA S3 « WALTON ADVERTISING AND PRINTING COMPANY BOSTON, MASS. / 1 ~1 ^ 1 THE OEIGINALS OF THE CUTS USED IN THIS PAMPHLET AND MANY OTHEE QUAINT AND IN- TEEESTING PICTUEES MAY BE SEEN ON THE WALLS OF THE MAIN OFFICE OF THE STATE STEEET TEUST COMPANY AT 38 STATE STEEET, BOSTON STATE STREET THE BEGINNING OF A WAY. THE street is old, — as old as Boston itself. If one would look for its ori- gin, he must go back to the days before the Puritans of St. Botolph's town set foot upon the hills that run up from Boston Har- bor. Even then he is forced to fall upon con- jecture, and surmise that it may have been the trail which the Indians followed from their camps on Shawmut Hills to their fisheries in the bay. William Blackstone, the only white in- habitant on Tri-mountain previous to 1630, may have trod the self-same trail on his way along the ridge, which was the principal spur from Century Hill down to the water. State Street, despite the uncertainty of its origin, has been from the very day of Boston's settlement Bos- ton's most important thoroughfare. The street has written itself large and per- manently in the records of an ancient town and on the page of a nation's history. When Eng- STATE STREET lish ships brought English goods to Puritan homes in the days of the first settlers, it was the mart of trade and the seat of justice. Upon it lived the early settlers and the town's first mer- chants. Many scenes of Provincial interest and Colonial importance had here their setting, and on its frosty pavement was spilled the first blood of the Revolution. To-day about it throbs the financial interest of a great State, and to it are ever turning for help the industrial projects of a great nation. EARLY COLONIAL LANDMARKS. OUR Puritan forbears were men of order and system, — men who believed in metes and bounds to everything. So we find them early setting down their names and lands in the Book of Possessions, and back to this old record go many of the deeds of Boston. This book was a record of a survey, by order of the General Court, April 1, 1634, of the lands and houses of the first inhabitants. On the old map, five by nine feet, is the earliest record of State Street. It appears a short, nameless way from the water up to the hills, and is dotted on either side with the houses of the first settlers. STATE STREET At its head, where now the Old State House stands, was the first market-place. And so it was that, as early as 1636, when the lines of cer- tain streets were fixed and had by popular con- sent been named, State Street was known as Market Street. THE FIRST CHURCH OF BOSTON. ACROSS the way from the market-place in 1632, on the site since occupied by Brazer's Building, stood the first meeting-house, later dignified as the First Church. It was a rude but substantial building, with walls of mud and thatched roof. Its first pastor, the Rev. John Wilson, lived on his farm, on the opposite side of Market Street; and his colleague was the redoubt- able John Cotton, formerly the pastor of old St. Botolph's, Boston, England. Services were held under the trees previous to its erection. The meeting-house had become too small in 1639, and in 1640 a new one was erected on the site of the late Joy Building. The second meeting-house was destroyed in the conflagration of 1711, the greatest of the eight great fires that Boston had then experienced, but was rebuilt. General Wash- ington with all his troops, after the siege of Boston, STATE STREET attended services at the First Church, and then adjourned to the Bunch of Grapes Tavern to re- fresh the body. THE BIBLE, THE ROD, AND A PRISONER. IN those early days of rigid lives the Bible and the rod were often inseparable. The whipping- post and the stocks, therefore, stood on Market Street, almost in front of the door of the First Church; and great was the impartiality with which justice, at least, was then dealt out. The first prisoner, for instance, of the stocks was the car- penter, Edward Palmer, who built them in 1639, The town fathers were incensed at his exorbitant bill for their construction, and they laid their strong hands upon him, and he forthwith spent an hour as a prisoner of his own creation and as a for- bidding example to like grasping merchants with whom the early town may have been "afflicted." These instruments of punishment were, in later years, put on wheels, and were moved from place to place. The stocks in 1801 were located near Change Avenue. Public whipping was not inflicted in Boston after 1803. Market Street was also the "sacred way" along STATE STREET which the train band of our Puritan fathers marched and manoeuvred. The Provincial Governors were inaugurated in the Town House, and then, appearing in the famous window of the east balcony, received the cheers of the populace. As the town grew, the streets slowly multiplied about this parent of Boston's thoroughfares; and finally, May 3, 1708, the select- men, determining that Market Street should have a worthier name, ordered that "the street leading from Cornhill, includeing the wayes on each side of the Town house extending easterly to the sea," should be called "King Street." In 1784, after the Revolution had severed all the regal ties of the Commonwealth, the name was changed to State Street. AN OLD MAP, SOME STREETS, AND THE FIRST MERCHANTS. A VIEW early in the seventeenth century shows the street paved with pebbles and without sidewalks. There were "many faire shops," and over them lived the Boston mer- chants. The first map upon which the name "King Street" appears was that of Captain John Bonner, printed in 1722 by Francis Deming, and STATE STREET sold by William Price "over against ye Towne house." Here first appears also Long Wharf. The harbor previous to the building of Long Wharf in 1710, which quadrupled King Street, flowed as far inland as Kilby Street on the south and Merchants' Row on the north. King Street was intercepted between Cornhill, now Washington Street, and the bay by Pudding Lane and Crooked Lane, now Devonshire Street. Crooked Lane ran through the farm of the Rev. John Wilson, pastor of the First Church. Shrimpton Street, now Exchange Place, took its name from an old Bostonian, as did Pierce's Alley, now Change Avenue. Leverett's Lane, now Congress Street, took its name from Governor Leverett. Mackerel Lane, now Kilby Street, probably took its name from its proximity to the fish market. FROM WOOD TO BRICK AND STONE. AS early as the middle of the eighteenth cen- tury brick and stone had begun to replace * wood, with which the town was originally built. Upon State Street most of the early "first citizens" of Boston had their homes. On the south-west corner lived Captain Robert Keayne, a 7 STATE STREET leading merchant, founder of the Ancient and Honorable Artillery Company, and also the founder of the old Town House. The site of his house later was that of Daniel Henchman's bookstore, where General Henry Knox served his apprenticeship. The first shop in Boston was opened by James Coggan on the north-west corner of the same street. He lived over his place of business, as did all the leading merchants of early Boston. The Rev. John Wilson's home, too, was on Market Street, and just east of the old Exchange was the residence of Governor Leverett. The home of Richard Fairbanks, the first postmaster, stood not far from the old Town House. The General Court in 1639 designated it as the place for all letters to be sent for delivery or forwarding over the seas. All the banks and brokers' offices in the town were at one time on State Street, and even as late as 1837 twenty-two of the thirty-five banks stood upon this street. A branch of the United States Bank from 1791 to 1836 stood on the site of the Brazer Building. The Massachusetts Bank was situated where No. 66 State Street was in 1870. The Union Bank, established in 1792, and located on the south-east corner of State and Exchange Streets, is on the site of the old Custom House. STATE STREET Previous to the occupancy by the Union Bank the site was the dwelling-place of Perez Morton. Now it is the home of the State Street Trust Company. LONG WHARF AND ITS STIRRING EPISODES. THE houses that stood on Long Wharf are thought to have been the first numbered ones in Boston. The numbers ran from one to sixty-nine, inclusive. The Directory of Boston for 1801 shows the highest street number on State Street as eighty-two. On the north side of Long Wharf, which the Directory says "in every respect exceeds anything of the kind in the United States," large and commodious stores are shown. Long Wharf had a thoroughfare thirty feet wide on one side and a space of fifteen feet in the middle for boats to come up and unload. The wharf extended State Street one thousand seven hundred and forty-three feet into the harbor in a straight line with the street, and the breadth of the wharf was one hundred and four feet, with seventeen feet of water at ebb tide at the end. It was the largest of the eighty wharves and quays in Boston at this time. The wharf has witnessed many stirring and STATE STREET interesting scenes. It was the landing-place of the Royal Governors, who, escorted by the flower of the Colony's Militia, marched up King Street to the Town House. Here, in 1768, landed the first British soldiers, sent over by the king to overawe the colonists, still incensed by the injustice of the Stamp Act. Some of these soldiers were quartered for a time in the Old State House before going into camp on the Common and Dock Square. The French allies, under Rochambeau, were later received here with delight by the populace. And on that momentous day, in June, 1775, the Royal Regiment of Colonel Dalrymple marched down King Street, embarked at Long Wharf, and en- tered the battle of Bunker Hill, from which many of the regiment never returned. The old custom of marching on State Street has continued, and down this street went many of the regiments that Massachusetts during the Rebellion sent to the front. GLEANINGS FROM AN OLD DI- RECTORY. TO the Bostonian of to-day the Directory of 1801 also throws much light on well- known Boston names. Here are some who appear with offices on Long Wharf: Thomas 11 STATE STREET C. Amory, merchant, No. 36; Uriah Cotting, merchant, No. 47, who built Broad Street in 1808, India Street in 1809, New Cornhill in 1817; Ben- jamin W. Foster, merchant, No. 26, founder of the McLean Asylum; Caleb Stimpson, merchant, No. 2; Arnold Welles, merchant, No. 14, com- mander of the Cadets and prominent in military affairs; Timothy Williams, merchant, No. 12. Among the other prominent business men on State Street in 1801 were James Abelard, No. 78, with whom Due de Chartres, afterwards Louis Philippe, lived during his residence in Boston; Peter C. Brooks, father-in-law of Charles Francis Adams; Humphrey Clark, No. 79, and Thomas Clark, No. 61; William Endicott, tailor, No. 9; Joseph Foster, merchant, No. 31; Moses M. Hayes, Insurance, No. 68, Grand Master A. F. & A. M. 1788-92; Benjamin and Josiah Loring, bookbinders; Francis C. Lowell, merchant, No. 25, in whose honor the city of Lowell was named; Benjamin Russell, editor and publisher of the Sentinel, No. 10; Robert G. Shaw, merchant and philanthropist; and Samuel Thaxter, mathematical instrument maker, No. 49 State Street. Other well-known Boston names can be found in the Directory of 1801. Some business enter- prises of Boston go back farther than this. 12 STATE STREET SOMETHING ABOUT STATE STREET'S OLD TAVERNS. NUMEROUS and interesting have been the public houses on State Street which at some time or other have offered their good cheer to stranger and townsman. A " water- side resort," the Crown Coffee House, was the first house on Long Wharf in 1712. Seamen from every land and the leading merchants and the young bucks of the thriving town found good cheer here, and gossiped at a time when a gentleman was not above the seductions of piracy. Many strange tales of those fierce buccaneer times were told over the glasses of this ancient hostelry. On the south- west corner of Exchange Place and State Street stood the Royal Exchange Tavern, where in 1690 Chief Justice Sewall and Colonel William Phipps had a famous dinner. This William Phipps, by the way, son of a Maine gunsmith and blacksmith, had located a treasure-ship sunk off Hispaniola. He recovered three hundred thousand pounds, gave the Crown ten thousand as its share, took twenty thousand pounds as his, and in return was made a knight by the king, and then first Governor of the New England colonists under the Charter. 14 STATE STREET And a very good governor he was, at a time when good Colonial Governors were few and far between. At the Royal Exchange in 1748 occurred an altercation between Phillips and Woodbridge that resulted in a duel on the Common and in the death of Woodbridge. This old tavern was still stand- ing in 1801, and was then kept by Israel Harris. ADMIRAL VERNON AND THE SEAMAN'S "GROG." THE Admiral Vernon Tavern, which took its name from the famous English "sea dog" whose name was subsequently given to Mount Vernon by Lawrence Washington who had served on his staff, stood on the easterly corner of State Street and Merchants' Row. Over it was the wooden figure of the English admiral, sextant in hand, in the uniform of his rank, — quite appropriate as a sign for a tavern, when we learn that from the hero of Porto Bello comes the term "grog," which sea-faring men have given to strong drink. It was Admiral Vernon's custom in stormy weather to appear on deck clad in a coarse grogram. From this he was dubbed by his sailors "Old Grog," and soon "grog" was the term they gave to the rum and water he occasionally dealt 15 STATE STREET out to his men. Shem Drowne, who carved the figure over the tavern, was noted in his day for the ships' figure-heads he turned out, and his work on the hero of Porto Bello was watched with in- terest by the artist Copley. Another tavern that could have been found on State Street in 1787 was Cummings Tavern. The Bunch of Grapes, a famous resort, kept by James Kendall, in 1801 was on the north-east corner of State and Kilby Streets. Where No. 66 State Street was in 1870, then the site of the Massachusetts Bank, the British Coffee House offered its cheer. Here James Otis, of Stamp Act fame, was mortally assaulted by one of the Excise Commissioners in 1769. Poor Otis, he who might have been "the flame of fire" during the Revolutionary days that he was during the ex- citement of the Stamp Act, became deranged from the blow, and, though he took part in the battle of Bunker Hill, he retired to Andover, Mass., where in 1783 he was killed by a stroke of lightning. The Exchange Coffee House, corner of State and Devonshire Streets, with an entrance on each, was built in 1804, burned down in 1818, rebuilt in 1822, and closed as a tavern in 1854. On the site of 75 State Street stood in 1803 Fuller's Tavern. 17 STATE STREET ROAST OX AND THE FRENCH REVOLUTION. THE strangest scene that State Street has witnessed was the barbecue at the time of the French Revolution. America was full of its partisans, and nowhere was this friendly sympathy keener than in Boston. Bos- tonians of this era delighted in calling each other "citizens," and strove in many other ways to show their sympathy with the spirit of liberty then sweep- ing through France. The feeling found expres- sion, two days after the execution of Louis XVI., in the barbecue. A thousand-pound ox was killed, and its horns gilded and placed on an altar twenty feet high. Drawn by fifteen horses and preceded by two hogsheads of punch pulled by six horses, and accompanied by a cart of bread, it was es- corted through the streets of Boston, and finally de- posited in State Street. Tables had been spread from the Old State House to Kilby Street, and the citizens feasted upon roast ox and strong punch, to the subsequent confusion of many. Boston's fair women decked the windows of the neighboring houses, and amused themselves by throwing flow- ers upon the feasters, until the scene culminated 18 STATE STREET in what some of the best citizens characterized as a " drunken revelry." When the news of the exe- cution of the king reached America, there was a sudden revulsion of feeling against his executioners. It was on State Street near the Old State House, in August, 1806, that Ben Austin, Jr., son of "Honestus," a well-known political pamphleteer, was shot and killed, during a political row, by Charles Self ridge. Anthony Burns, the fugitive slave, was escorted by the entire police and military force of Boston, May 26, 1854, down State Street to the vessel that carried him back to slavery. The extension of State Street from Chatham Row to Commercial Street occurred April 13, 1858. It was extended along the north side of State Street Block, and accepted on the same date in 1858, and was extended to Atlantic Avenue March 27, 1876. BUILDING THE TOWN HOUSE. THE chief historic interest of State Street centres about the Boston Massacre and the Old State House. The original Town House stood, as we have learned, on the site of the first market-place, and may be called the forbear of the Old State House. It was to 19 \ c\ STATE STREET Captain Robert Keayne, one of Boston's earliest prominent merchants, that the town was indebted for its Town House. His generosity must have heaped coals of fire upon the heads of his towns- men. He was charged by them with making ex- orbitant profits, found guilty, and cast into prison. At his death, in 1656, he left three hundred pounds to Boston for the erection of a Town House, and defended in the will his business conduct. He outlined that the Town House should con- tain a market-place, room for the Courts, room for the Townsmen, Commissioners, for a library, a gallery for the Elders, a room for an armory, and rooms for merchants and masters of vessels. The selectmen considered it, and in March, 1656-57, the town chose a committee to consider the plans for the Town House. A committee was given full power in August, 1657, to erect a building, and to bind the town for the payment of the contract price. The building thus constructed was sixty-six feet long, thirty-six feet wide, set upon twenty-one pillars ten feet high. The second story was parti- tioned, making the rooms desired. There was a walk on top fifteen feet wide, with two turrets, and balusters and rails around the walk. 21 The Old State House, as it will appear at the Jamestown Exposition STATE STREET BURNING OF THE OLD TOWN HOUSE. AS the building cost six hundred and eighty pounds, the balance required in addition to the legacy of Captain Keayne was con- tributed by one hundred and four citizens. The settlement of the builder's bill was on Feb. 28, 1661. The building stood until the fire of 1711, when it and one hundred houses on arid in the neighborhood of King Street were consumed. This fire burned all the houses from School Street to Dock Square, all of the upper part of King Street, the Town House, and the old Meeting House. The leading newspaper of the day, the News-Letter, ascribed the source of the fire to an old Scotch woman who lived in a tenement at the head of the street. A fire she was using spread to some chips and other combustibles near by, and thence to the tenement in which she lived. A new Town House was immediately erected, one-half of the expense being met by the Province, and one-quarter by the town of Boston, and one- quarter by the county of Suffolk. The building was of brick, one hundred and ten feet long, thirty-eight feet wide, and provided accommoda- 23 STATE STREET tion for the Governor, the Courts, the Secretary of the Province, and for the Register of Deeds. This second Town House was partially burned in 1747, and the present structure, built in 1748, has an exterior but slightly altered, though the interior has undergone many changes. A CHAMBER OF EVENTS.-A PIRATE'S TRIAL. JOHN ADAMS said, "In it Independence was born." The death of George II. and the accession of George III. were here pro- claimed. In it Generals Howe, Clinton, and Gage held a counsel of war before the battle of Bunker Hill. On July 18, 1776, from its famous east window Colonel Crafts read to the assembled multitude the Declaration of Independence, and from it also the sheriff of Suffolk County pro- claimed the adoption of the Constitution of the United States. The Constitution of the State in 1778 was planned within its walls. Beneath it John Hancock was inaugurated first Governor of the Commonwealth. Its old walls witnessed the convening of the Convention before the dele- gates adjourned to adopt in Federal Street Church the Constitution of these United States. Every 24 STATE STREET page of the old records of the Town House has interest. It was the centre of the Revolution of 1689 when, in the person of Governor Andros, royal authority was temporarily overcome, and in 1699 it was the scene of the trial of Captain Kidd, the greatest pirate of an age of famous buccaneers. What an interesting audience of spectators there must have been, — stern Puritans, soldiers, swarthy seamen, perhaps here and there a pirate, in dis- guise, and the austere Governor of the Province. What a picture for a Macaiilay ! After his trial and conviction in the Old State House, Captain Kidd was conducted to the gloomy, forbidding pile of stones, the first prison of the Commonwealth, that stood on the site of the old Court House at the head of Queen, now Court Street. In this prison, where Kidd remained until his execution, were imprisoned the witches of those curious witchcraft days. So cold were its dark dungeons that the pan of charcoal allowed the prisoners often failed to keep the frost from them during the bleak, old-fashioned winters. This prison, at the time of its erection, was one of the strongest in the colonies. Puritan jus- tice, once its hands fell upon an offender, was in- deed difficult to escape. 25 STATE STREET OLD TOWN HOUSE BECOMES THE STATE HOUSE. THE Town House was the scene of fes- tivities on State occasions, and in it also were held the public funerals of the early times. When Faneuil Hall was erected in 1740-42, the building on King Street became the State House, where the Legislature as well as the Courts assembled, and in its place Faneuil Hall became the Town Hall. The plans for the capture of Louisburg, June 17, 1746, described as "the proudest boast of our Provincial history," were conceived and com- pleted beneath the walls of the Old State House. James Otis, "a flame of fire," in its Court-room in 1761 made his celebrated plea against the Writs of Assistance, and in 1766, in front of its doors, a mob burned the Stamp Clearances, one of the violent protests against the injustice of the Stamp Act. In the Court-room also occurred, four years later, the trial of Captain Preston and the soldiers implicated in the Boston Massacre. And here Samuel Adams presented the demand for the withdrawal of the troops to the fortress. 26 The Bioorrr Masaackk h»iai^- t ^to«^3ftS7t?jrof»t»A3^aly «T^v«— =^F O ^ 5 3 m o -i -< s m so z PI z H OCCUPIED BY THE GENERAL COURT 1830- -1839 1780 JOHN HANCOCK SIGNER OF THE DECURATION OF INDEPENDENCE WAS HERE INAUGURATED FIRST GOVERNOR OF THE COMMONWEALTH OF MASSACHUSETTS 1780- -1798 tI © ^r= =^ ^ lK^ Tl 1634 SITE OF PUBLIC MARKET PLA 1657 FIRST TOWN HOUSE BUILT 1711 REBUILT 1713 OCCUPIED BY THE GREAT AND GENERAL COU AND THE ROYAL GOVERNORS UND GEORGE MM II It Ft *0 h PI ft © =*i STATE STREET STATE STREET TRUST COMPANY. ONE of the oldest buildings and one of the landmarks of State Street is the Union Building, which stands directly opposite the spot where the Boston Massacre took place. This building was erected in the year 1826. The lower floor of the building is occupied by the main office of the State Street Trust Company, which is one of the well-known financial institutions of Boston to-day. Occupying as its main office one of the old buildings on State Street, the company has established in the Back Bay, on the corner of Massachusetts Avenue and Boylston Street, a banking building of the most modern type exclusively for its own use. 39 STATE STREET INSCRIPTION ON THE PRINT SHOWING THE LANDING OF THE BRITISH IN BOSTON IN 1768. THE lower right-hand corner of the illustra- tion on page 10 reads, "To the Earl of Hillsborough, His Majest 8 , Scr y of State for America this view of the only well Plan'd Expe- dition formed for Supporting y e dignity of Britain & Chastizing y e insolence of America is hum 7 inscribed." The printing at the bottom of the cut gives the names of the numbered ships and wharves and battery shown in the cut: — "#1 Beaver, #2 Senegal, #3 Martin, #4 Glas- gow, #5 Mermaid, #6 Romney, #7 Launceston, #8 Bonetta. "On fryday Sept r 30 th 1768, the Ships of War, armed Schooners, Transports &c, Came up the Harbour and Anchored round the Town; their Cannon loaded, a Spring on their Cables, as for a regular Siege. At noon on Saturday, October the l 8t the fourteenth & twenty-ninth Regi- ments, a detachment from the 59 th Reg* and a Train of Artillery, with two pieces of Cannon landed on the Long Wharf; there Formed and 41 STATE STREET Marched with insolent Parade, Drums beating, Fifes playing and Colours flying up King Street, each Soldier having received 16 rounds of Powder and Ball." The imprint is, "Engraved, Printed & Sold by Paul Revere, Boston." 42 DATE DUE uexj i t 1994 UNIVERSITY PRODUCTS, INC. #859-5503 F STATE STREET 73.67 •87 S7 Bapst Library Boston College Chestnut Hill, Mass. 02167