tyoyal Exchange Assurance
A.D. 1720.
Fire, Life, Sea, Accidents, Burglary,
Employers’ Liability, Fidelity Guarantees, Annuities.
FUNDS IN HAND
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'n.i Covr*~\
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ESTABLISHED 1851.
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allowed on DEPOSIT ACCOUNTS Repayable on Demand.
2 per cent. INTEREST
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♦
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Business transacted.
Apply C. F. RAVENSCROFT, Secretary ,
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NATIONAL PROVIDENT
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ASSURANCES AND ANNUITIES OF ALL KINDS,
WITH OR WITHOUT PROFITS.
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Paid in Claims more than £12,500,000
PROFITS.
These are divided every five years solely amongst the Assured.
At the 1902 Division a Cash Profit of £761,602 was apportioned
amongst the Members, being considerably more than one third of the
amount paid in Premiums during the previous five years.
ENDOWMENT-ASSURANCE
Policies are issued, combining Life Assurances at minimum cost, with
provision for old age, and are singularly advantageous.
48, Gracechurch Street, L. F* Hovil,
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Applications for Agencies Invited.
To fact 2nd Cover]
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THE KING.
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In Packets containing one dozen, from CcJ. to 2/*
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DELIGHTFUL STEAMER TRIPS
SALOON STEAMERS run daily (Sundays excepted)
between OXFORD, HENLEY, & KINGSTON.
DOWN TRIP.
Oxford dep. . . 9.30 a.m., 2.30 p.m.
Wallingford arr. abt. 1.40 p.m., 6.40p.m.
„ dep. abt. 2.40 p.m., 9.0 a.m.
Henley arr. about . 7.0 p.m., 1.30 p.m.
„ dep. „ . 9.50 a.m., 2.40 p.m.
Windsor arr. „ , 1.45 p.m., 7.15 p.m.
„ dep.,, . 2.40 p.m., 9.15 a.m.
Kingston arr. „ . 7.10 p.m., 1.30 p.m.
Kingston dep.
Windsor arr. about
.. dep. „
Henley arr. „
„ dep. „
Wallingford arr. „
,, dep. „
Oxford arr. „
., 2.30 p.m.
1.40 p.m., 7.15 p.m.
2.40 p.m., 9.15 a.m.
7.15 p.m., 1.40 p.m.
9.0 a.m., 2.40 p.m.
1.40 p.m., 7.15 p.m.
2.40 p.m., 9.0 a.m.
7.10 p.m., 1.15 p.m.
UP TRIP.
9.0 a.m
The through journey occupies two days each way, but passengers can join or leave the
boat at any of the locks or regular stopping places. Circular Tickets for combined Rail-
way and Steamer Trips are issued at most of the principal G.W.R. Stations, also at
Waterloo, Richmond, and Kingston Stations, L. & S.W. Railway. Time Tables giving
full particulars of arrangements, fares, etc., post free, Id.
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Boats 0/ every description , Canoes , Punts, Ere., built to order.
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HOUSE BOATS FOR SAL F OR HIRE, 6r ALSO BUILT TO ORDER.
SALTER BROTHERS, Boat Builders, Folly Bridge. OXFORD.
A
pictorial anO Descriptive (BuiDe
TO THE
LAKES of KILLARNEY,
GLENGARIFF,
AND
SOUTH-WEST IRELAND,
INCLUDING A GUIDE TO CORK.
jfiftb JECution— IRcvisefc.
WITH THREE MAPS AND SIXTY-SIX ILLUSTRATIONS.
LONDON :
WARD, LOCK AND CO., LIMITED.
qqu
ms
PS
No Charge for Attendance.
The Wesfn iinQ % Palace Hotel.
v iOTuKIA STRfc -
DON, S.W.
M OST convenient situation for Business or Pleasure. Opposite
Westminster Abbey and the Houses of Parliament. The Building
is F ; -eproof, with Electric Light throughout, Hydraulic Passenger Lifts, and
all the latest modern improvements. Spacious Reading, Writing, Dining,
Drawing Rooms and Hall Lounge, together with Smoking and Billiard
Rooms, are set apart for the convenience of visitors to the Hotel and their
friends. Revised Tariff for present season on application. Visitors are
received at Fixed Inclusive Rates, from 11 - per day, or Bedroom Electric
Light Service, and Breakfast, from 5/6 per day.
GEO. J. BRINKWORTH, Manager.
Telephone -Nat. No. 70, WESTMINSTER ; P.0. 482 VICTORIA
MAPS.
v
Map of South- West Ireland ..... Frontispiece
Plan of Cork ....... Faces p. 17
The Killarney Lakes ...... ,,73
CONTENTS.
PAGE
Hotels and Their Tariffs ...... vii
Routes and Fares ........ i
Dublin to Killarney and Cork ..... 10
Cork .......... 17
A Tour of the City ....... 30
Excursions from Cork ....... 45
I. Cork Harbour, Queenstown, Crosshaven, etc. . 45
II. To Aghada, Roche’s Point, Cloyne, and Ballycotton 54
III. To Blarney Castle ...... 56
IV. Youghal and the Blackwater . . . .61
Killarney and the Lakes ...... 73
First Day ........ 86
Second Day ........ 93
Third Day ........ 99
Fourth Day ........ 109
Fifth Day . . . . . . . .120
Sixth Day . . . . . . . .122
Cycling Routes ........ 124
Round the Coast of Kerry ...... 129
Killarney to Cork by the Prince of Wales Route . . 149
Cork to Glengariff and Killarney by the Macroom
Route . . . . . . . . . 174
Science Notes ........ 180
Index. . . . . 183
v
ILLUSTRATIONS.
PAGE
The “ Ulster ” (Irish Mail
Boat) 2
The L. and N.-W. R. Ex-
press Steamer “ Cam-
bria ” . . -4
British and Irish Steam Pac-
ket Co.’s Steamer . . 8
The Quays and St. Patrick’s
Bridge, Cork .... g
O’Connell Bridge and Sack-
ville Street, Dublin . . ii
The Rock of Cashel . . 13
View from the Marina,
Cork 16
St. Fin Barre’s Cathedral 19
St. Patrick’s Bridge . . 21
The Lee near Shandon . 24
Pope’s Quay and Domini-
can Church .... 29
Parliament Bridge and
Father Mathew Memo-
rial Church . . . .31
St. Patrick’s Street. . . 33
The Mar dyke . . . -39
Shandon Church ... 40
On the Lee 43
Queenstown Harbour . . 49
Queenstown 51
An Irish Cottage ... 54
Blarney Castle .... 57
Myrtle Grove .... 63
The Blackwater at Cappo-
quin 65
At Mount Melleray. . . 67
Lismore Castle .... 68
An Ice- Rounded Sandstone
Bluff at Loo Bridge . 7 2
The Catholic Cathedral,
Killarney 74
Arbutus Island, Upper Lake 77
Middle Lake and Devil’s
Island 79
General view of the Lakes
from the Kenmare Road 83
Doorway, Muckross Abbey 87
Muckross Abbey ... 88
PAGE
Tunnel on the Kenmare
Road 91
The Tore Cascade ... 92
The Devil’s Punch Bowl . 95
Macgillycuddy’s Reeks . 97
Ross Castle 101
Cottage on Ross Island . 102
Innisfallen Island . . . 105
Ruins on Innisfallen Is-
land 106
O’Sullivan’s Cascade . . 108
The Gap of Dunloe . . 111
The Upper Lake . . -113
Serpent Lake, Gap of Dun-
loe 1 14
The Old Weir Bridge . .116
The Colleen Bawn Caves . 117
The Eagles’ Nest Moun-
tain 1 18
Killarney House . . .120
At Valentia 128
Moor and Mountain, Glen-
car 131
The Ballaghbeama Pass . 13 1
Cahirciveen 133
The Atlantic Cable Coming
Ashore 136
The Loo River near Ken-
mare 14 1
At Parknasilla . . . • 143
Blackwater Bridge . . . 145
Falls in Sheen Valley, Ken-
mare 1 5 1
The Great Tunnel on the
Kenmare Road . . .152
At Glengariff . . • • 155
Cromwell’s Bridge, Glen-
gariff 158
Otter Island, Glengariff . 160
Bantry House and the Bay 163
Harbour Entrance and
Beacon, Baltimore . .166
| Kinsale T 7 1
i Inchigeela Lake . • • 1 77
I Gougane Barra . • • 1 77
| The Pass of Keimaneigh . 178
vi
HOTELS AND TARIFFS.
I N times which can scarcely yet be called remote, tourists
were often deterred from visiting Ireland on account of
the reputed indifferent hotel accommodation. It is only
fair to call attention to the great improvement that has
recently taken place in this respect, an improvement largely
due to the enterprise and sagacity of the principal railway
companies. First-class hotels, run on English lines and
excellently managed, ,are to be found in all the chief tourist
centres ; and it is only in the outlying districts that appre-
hension need be felt. Killarney itself is amply provided for,
while the chain of hotels bordering the Kenmare promon-
tory are excellent. There is good accommodation also at
Valentia Island, Glengariff, Bantry, Cork and Queenstown ;
and, indeed, at most of the places described in this volume.
In some of the smaller places so-called “ hotels ” would
barely merit the name of inns in England. In Cork there
are a number of good boarding-houses. The tariffs stated below
have been supplied by the hotel proprietors themselves,
but are liable to fluctuation according to season. In August
and September it is always as well, when travelling from
place to place, to write or wire for accommodation in advance.
We have included Dublin in the list, as many tourists break
their journey at that historic city, either going or returning.
The Guide to Dublin in this series contains a large plan of
the city, and will, we think, be worth its price, one shilling,
to the visitor.
(ABBREVIATIONS. — R., bedroom; A. breakfast; l., luncheon; d., dinner; t., tea;
a., attendance;/?'., from; temp., temperance.)
Bandon.
French’s :
Devonshire Arms :
Temperance :
Bantry.
Railway :
Vickery’s :
Cahircivean.
Railway : R., single, 3/- ; double,
4/6; b., 2/-; /., 2/-;j d., 3/6;
G 1/-.
vii
noaramg terms : 0/0 per aay ,
19/- Sat. to Mon. ; 42 /- per
week.
Fitzgerald’s :
Cappoquin.
Morrissey’s : R., single, 2/6 ; double,
4/-; b. t plain, 1/— ; /., 2/-; d.,
2/6; t., plain, 1/— ; a., nil.
Boarding terms : 6/— per day ;
15/- Sat. to Mon.
Harrington’s : R., single, 2/- ; double,
3/-; b., meat 2/-, eggs 1/6; /.,
I 2/-: d., 2/6: t., 1/- : a., nil.
HOTELS AND TARIFFS
vm
(ABBREVIATIONS.— bedroom ; 3., breakfast ; luncheon ; d., dinner ; £,'tea ; I
a., attendance ; fr., from ; temp., temperance.)
Boarding terms: 7/6 per day;
14/- Sat. to Mon. ; 45 /- per
week.
Moore’s :
Caragh Lake.
Great Southern : R. t single, fr. 4/- ;
double, fr. 6/-; b., fr. 1/6; l., fr.
2/6 ; d., fr. 4/6 ; 1, fr. 6 d.
Boarding terms : fr. 10/- per day ;
fr. 63/— per week, according to
season.
Castletown Bearhaven.
Commercial :
Royal Naval :
Clonakilty.
O’ Donovan’s : R., single, 2/6 ; double,
3/-; b., 1/6 ; /., 1/6 ; d., 2/6 ; t.,
i/--
Boarding terms : 7/- per day.
Imperial :
Cork.
Imperial : Tariff forwarded on appli-
cation.
Victoria : R., single, 4/- ; double,
7/6; b., meat or fish, 2/6 ; l. {table
d'hote), 2/6; d., 3/6; t., 1/6; a.,
nil.
Boarding terms : 63/- per week.
Metro pole, King Street :
Stevens’ :
Windsor : R., single, 2/6 ; double,
4/-; b., 2/-; /., 2/-; d., 3/-;
t., 1/- ; a., nil.
Grosvenor : R., single, 2/6 ; double,
4/-; b., 2/-; 1, 2/-; d., 3/-;
t., 1/- ; jz., nil.
Turner’s :
Moore’s :
Leech’s : R., single, 2/- ; double, 3/- ;
6., 1/- to 2/6 ; /., 1/- to 1/6 ; d.,
1/6 to 2/6 ; t.,i/-; a., nil.
Boarding terms: 6/- per day;
30 /- to 44/- per week.
Hibernian: i?., single, 2/-; double,
3/6; 6., fr. 1/— ; 1,1/9; d. ,2/6;
1, 1/-.
Boarding terms: 7/- per day;
10/- Sat. to Mon.; 35/- per
week.
Railway :
Moran’s :
Courtmacsherry.
Esplanade :
East View (Boarding-house) : Board-
ing terms : 5/- to 6/- per day ; 13/ —
Sat. to Mon. ; 35/- to 40/- per
week.
Crosshaven.
Crosshaven : Week-end (Sat. to Mon.)
combined railway and hotel tickets,
including fare from and to Cork,
18/6.
Kennefick’s :
Church Bay, Church Bay :
Dunmanus Bay.
Ahakista : Boarding terms : fr. 52/6
per week inclusive.
Glenbeigh.
Hotel, The : Boarding terms : 7/- per
day ; 42/- per week.
Glengariff.
Eccles : R., single, fr. 4/-; double,
fr. 5/-; b., fr. 1/6; 1, fr. 1/-;
d. {table d'hote), 4/6 ; t., fr. 9 d. ;
a., nil.
Boarding terms : fr. 8/6 per day ;
1 7/- to 25/- Sat. to Mon. ;
50/- to 84/- per week.
Roche’s :
Belle Vue: R., single, 2/-; double,
3/-; b., plain 1/-, meat 2/-; /.,
1/6; d., 2/6 and 3/6; t., 1/-;
., breakfast;/., luncheon; d., dinner; /., tea;
a., attendance ; fr., from ; temp., temperance.)
Parknasilla.
Great Southern : R., single, fr. 4/- ;
double, fr. 6/-; b., fr. 1/6; l., fr.
2/6 ; d., fr. 4/6 ; t., fr. 6 d.
Boarding terms : fr. 10/- per
day ; fr. 63/- per week, accord-
ing to season.
Queenstown.
Queen’s: R., single, fr. 4/- ; double,
fr. 6/6 ; b., fr. 1/6 to 3/- ; l., 2/6 ;
d., 4/6 ; t., 1/-.
Boarding terms: fr. 10/- per
day; 21/- Sat. to Mon.; fr.
63/- per week.
Kilmurray’s :
Rob Roy :
Imperial : R., single, fr. 2/6 ; double,
fr. 4/-; b., 2/-; /., 2/-; d. ( table
d'hote), 3/-; /., 1 / — ; a., nil.
Boarding terms: 8/6 per day;
18/- Sat. to Mon.; 55/- per
week.
Schull.
Commercial :
Skibbereen.
lien Valley : R., single, 3/- ; double,
6/-; 6., fr. 1/3; /., fr. 1/6; d.,
3/-; /., 1/-;
Boarding terms : fr. 6/- per day ;
fr. 42/- per week.
Eldon : I?., single, 2/- ; double, 3/- ;
6., fr. 1/— ; /., fr. 1 /— ; d., 2/6;
*•, 1/-.
Boarding terms: 6/- per day;
42/- per week.
Sneem.
Sheehan’s : R., single, 2/- ; double, 1
4/-; 6., fr. 1/— ; /., fr. 1/— ; d., I
2/6 ; t., 1/- ; a., nil.
Boarding terms : 6/- per day ;
17/6 Sat. to Mon. ; 40/- per
week.
Valentia.
Royal : R., single, fr. 3/- ; double,
fr. 5/-; b., fr. 1/6; L, fr. 2/-;
d., 3/6 ; 1/6 ; a., nil.
Boarding terms : 8/6 to 10/6 per
day; 17/- to 21/- Sat. to
Mon. ; 52/6 to 60/- per week,
according to season.
Wat3rville.
Butler Arms : R., single, 3/- ; double,
5/-; b., 2/-; /., 2/-; rf., 3/6;
1/- ; a., nil.
Boarding terms : 9/- per day ;
52/6 per week.
Bay View : R., single, 3/6 ; double,
5/-; b., 2/6; /., 2/-; rf., 3/-;
/., 1/- ; a., nil.
Boarding terms : 8/6 per day ;
1 7/- Sat. to Mon. ; 52/6 per
week.
Great Southern : R., single, fr. 4/- ;
double, fr. 6/-; b., fr. 1/6; l.,
fr. 2/6 ; d., fr. 4/6 ; t., fr. 6d.
Boarding terms : fr. 10/- per
day; fr. 63/- per week, ac-
cording to season.
Youghal.
Devonshire Arms :
Green Park : R., single, 2/-; double,
4/-; b., 2/-; l., 2/-; <*., 3/-;
t., 1/- ; a., 1/-.
Boarding terms: 9/- per day;
16/- Sat. to Mon. ; 50/- per
week.
Atlantic :
Imperial :
Sunmount House, Strand (boarding-
house) :
Dublin.
Burlington, St. Andrew’s Street : R.,
3/6; b., 2/- or 2/6; /., fr. 1/6;
d.,3/6; t., i/-or 2/-; a., 1/-.
Boarding terms : 9/- per day, or
50/- per week.
Central, South, Great St. George’s
Street: 2/6; 6. or /., 2/- or
2/6 ; d. (table d'hote), 3/- ; t., 2/- ;
a., 1/6.
Boarding terms : 8/- per day, or
50/- per week.
Clarence, Wellington Quay : R., 2/-
to 2/6; 6., 1/- to 2/-; /., 1/- to
2/-; /., i/-to2/-; d.,2/- to 2/6;
a. , nil.
Edinburgh (temp.), Sackville Street :
Gough’s Temperance, Exchequer
Street :
Granville, Upper Sackville Street :
Gresham, Sackville Street: R., 3/-;
b. , 2/6 ; /., 2/6 ; ^., 4/6 ; t., 1/6 ;
a. , 1/6.
Boarding terms : By arrangement.
Grosvenor, Westland Row: R., 2/6;
b. , 2/6; l, 2/-; d., 2/6; 1/-;
«., 1/-.
Boarding terms : 8/6 per day, or
50/- per week.
HOTELS AND TARIFFS
xi
' Abbreviations. — R.. bedroom: b., breakfast; L, luncheon; d., dinner; t ., tea
a., attendance ; fr.,
Hammam, Sackville Street :
Imperial, Sackville Street :
Jury’s, College Green :
Kilworth House, KildareStreet: Bj tid-
ing terms : 10/ 6 per day, or from z\
guineas weekly.
Maple’s, Kildare Street : R., 3/- to
4/6; b., 2/- to 2/6; l., 2/-; d.,
3/6 or 5/-; t., 1/— ; a., 1/6.
Boarding terms : 10/6 per day, or
63/- per week.
Metropoie, Sackville Street : R., 3/ 6 ;
b., 2/-; L, 2/6; d., 3/6; t., 1/6;
a., 1/6.
Boarding terms : 12/6 per day, or
84/- per week.
Moran’s {temp.), Lower Gardiner
Street ; R., 1/6 to 2/- ; b., 1/- to
1/6 ; d., 1/6 to 2/-.
Nassau, Nassau and South Frederick
Streets : R., 2/- and 2/6 ; 6. or /.,
1/6 and 2/- ; d. { table d'hote), 3/ - ;
L, 1/6 ; 1/-.
Boarding terms : 49/- per
week.
North-Western, North Wall :
Rippingales {temp.), Harcourt Street :
R., 2/- to 2/6 ; b., 1/- to 1/9 ; l.,
fr. 1/6 ; d. y 2/6 ; t. 1/- to 1/9 ;
9^.
from; temp., temperance.)
| Boarding terms : 6/6 to 8/- per
day, or 42/- to 49/- per week.
Royal Hibernian, Dawson Stre t : R.,
2/6 or 3/- ; 6., 2/- to 3/- ; 1/6
to 3/-; d., 3/- to 4/6; /., 1/6;
«., 1/6.
Boarding terms : 8/-, 9/-, or 10/-
per day, or 50/- and 60/-- per
week.
Russell’s {temp.), St. Stephen’s Green :
R., 2 /- to 2/6 ; 6., 1/6 to 2/-;
/. or £., 1/6 ; Birectory.
INDEX.
Belfast
•2,
PAGE
3, 24
Bray
...
, 3 > 11
Bundoran
3 > 4
Caragh Lake ...
9
Carrick ...
...
5
Connemara
10
Courtmacsherry
5
Dublin ...
5 >
6, 24
Dungloe...
5
Enniskillen
6
Falcaragh
...
6
Galway ...
...
7.8
Giant’s Gauseway
...
7
Glengarriff
7
Glenties ...
10
Greystones
8
Gweedore
8
Kenmare
. . .
9
Kerry Fjords ...
9
RAILWAY
Cork and Muskerry
PAGE
18
Dublin and Blessington
1 7
Lancashire and York-
shire
20
STEAMER
PAGE
British and Irish Steam
Packet Company ... 14
City of Cork Steam-
Packet Company ... 16
City of Dublin Steam
Packet Company .. 15
PAGE
Killary Bay
10
Leenane
10
Limerick
. ... 10
Lough Swilly ..
J2
Malahide
11
Milford
10
Narin
. ... 10
Parknasilla
9
Portrush..,
12
Portsalon
. ... 12
Rosslare
12
Rostrevor
4
Sligo
12
Valencia Island
... 13
Warrenpoint ..
4
Waterford
13
Waterville
... 9, 13
Wicklow
. ... IT
ROUTES.
PAGE
London and
North
Western
.. 20, 21
Londonderry and Lough
Swilly 17
West and South Clare 19
ROUTES.
PAGE
G. & J. Burns, Ltd. ... 13
Lancashire and York-
shire and London and
North Western Rail-
way Companies ... 20, 21
Irish Guides, 1905-6 ]
1
32 GOLD AND PRIZE MEDALS AWARDED.
2
Belfast
LONDON DEPOT— Findlater’s Corner, London Bridge, S.E.
GLASGOW DEPOT- 53, Surrey Street
Works: BELFAST & DUBLIN.
BY SPECIAL APPOINTMENT
Purveyors HIS MAJESTY
to THE KING.
CANTRELL & COCHRANE’S
WORLD-FAMED
GINGER JSClaE.
“DRY IMPERIAL
Belfast — Bray — Bundoran
3
KENSINGTON HOTEL.
I^IRST-CLASS Family and Tourist Hotel. Newly Furnished. Cuisine
JJ Excellent. Very Moderate Tariff. Most Centrally Situated in best
position in City. Near G.N.R. Terminus. Opposite the .Assembly’s New
Buildings. Two minutes’ from New City Hall. Visitors have every
comfort and receive every attention.
Unlicensed. Mrs. MacCLEARY, Manageress.
N.B. — “Boots” meets Cross Channel Steamers on receipt of Postcard.
THE “ GROSVENOR ”
(M'CAUSLAND’S)
3First>class Commercial & jfamtly Ibotel,
TEMPERANCE,
WELLINGTON PLACE, BELFAST.
F ITTED up with all Modern Conveniences, perfect
Sanitary Arrangements, Electric Eight, and Heated
throughout. Telephone Communication with each Room.
The Hotel Porters attend all Trains and Steamers.
ESPLANADE HOTEL.
FACING SEA.
Terms Moderate.
Apply to Mrs. MILLS.
BUNDORAN, CO. DONEGAL.
SWEENY’S HOTEL.
£JTHIS Hotel is beautifully situated, overlooking the Sea.
The Views from the various windows have been
acknowledged as unsurpassed. Good Cuisine. Perfect
Sanitation. Lough Melvin Free Fishing for Salmon and
Trout. For Terms apply to the Manager.
4
Bundoran
Great Northern Railway Company
(IRELAN D).
BUNDORAN, CO. DONECAL.
THE GREAT NORTHERN.— Commands fine views
of Donegal Bay and the neighbouring Mountain Ranges.
Lighted by Electricity throughout. Sea and Fresh
Water Baths (Hot or Cold). Excellent Eighteen
Hole Golf Ginks on Hotel Grounds, free to
Visitors staying at the Hotel. Croquet. Tennis.
Accommodation for Motors. Petrol supplied. Unsur-
passed facilities for Lake, River, and Sea Fishing.
Coaching. Sea Bathing.
ROSTREYOR, CO. DOWN.
THE GREAT NORTHERN.— Beautifully situated
on Carlingford Lough. Luxuriously fitted and furnished,
and lighted by Electricity throughout. Sea and Fresh
Water Baths (Hot or Cold).
WARRENPOINT, CO. DOWN.
THE GREAT NORTHERN.— Situated at the head
of Carlingford Lough, commanding uninterrupted views
of the Mourne Mountains, the Omeath and Carlingford
Hills and shore, and the full extent of the Lough. Hot
and Cold Sea or Fresh Water Baths.
— —
Combined Rail and Hotel Tickets are issued at the
Company’s principal Stations, from which also rooms
may be telegraphed for, free of charge, but the issue of
Combined tickets to Bundoran is suspended between
the 15th July and the 15th September.
For terms apply to the Managers at the Hotels.
T. MORRISON, Secretary.
Amiens Street Terminus,
Dublin. May, 1905.
Carrick— Courtmacsherry — Dublin — Dungloe 5
CARRICK, Co. DONEGAL.
GLENCOLUMBKILLE HOTEL
T OURISTS and ANGLERS will find the above a most
comfortable Hotel, situated in the centre of the best
cliff scenery in the British Isles, and within easy reach of the
famous cliffs of Sleive League, Glen Head, and Muckross.
Good Salmon, Sea Trout, and Brown Trout Fishing, free to
guests at the Hotel, on two rivers and several lakes, all quite
close to the Hotel.
COURTMACSHERRY.
ESPLANADE HOTEL
7THE above Hotel is now' open, and visitors will find
w' it one of the most comfortable Seaside Hotels in
the country. Eminent doctors have placed on record
their high opinion of the Hotel, and its situation, which
enables you, as you awake in the morning, to behold
the sea rolling in within fifty yards of the building.
Sequestered, and away from “the madding crowd,” in
sylvan serenity and restfulness, it commands a charming
view, and stands in beautifully-wooded grounds.
(^hDUBLI 3V. otc
EDINBURGH HOTEL
(TEMPERANCE),
56, UPPER SACKVILLE STREET,
3fu*0t*das0 family anfc Commercial.
STOCKROOMS.
For Terms, apply Management.
SWEENEY’S HOTEL
ZDTTItTGULOIEh
Is in the centre of the Rosses Fishery. Every
accommodation for Motorists, Anglers, & Cyclists.
TERMS M ODERATE.
JOHN SWEENEY, Proprietor.
6
Dublin — Enniskillen — Falcaragh
X Mr. Labouchere in Truth writes : —
* “ The ONLY remedy is my trusty
4?Jy
YANATAS.”
It absolutely prevents Sea Sickness.
/ Of a ll Chemists, 2/9 and 4/6 a bottle (including a useful
/ little measure glass) ; or post paid 3d. extra, from
/ STARKIE,
Grand Hotel Buildings, London, S.W.
/ Dublin :
THOS. RITCHIE, 6, Foster Place.
The ROYAL HOTEL,
ENNISKILLEN
first-class hotel has recently undergone extensive
alterations. Having been very much enlarged and
improved, it is now the most comfortable, largest, and best
appointed hotel in Enniskillen.
COMMERCIAL AND COFFEE ROOMS
Ladies* Drawing Room. Private Sitting Rooms.
SMOKING AND BILLIARD ROOMS.
LARGE AIRY BEDROOMS.
Hot, Cold, and Shower Haths.
•BUS ATTENDS ALL TRAINS. POSTING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES.
FALCARAGH, CO. DONEGAL.
McCINLEYS HOTEL.
Tourists apd Visitors to the Donegal Highlands will find every comfort
and attention at the above Hotel. It is situated in the midst of Moun-
tain Scenery, and there is safe Sea-bathing on a beautiful strand convenient
to the village. Lake and river fishing. Hot and cold water baths. The
Railway Station is two miles from the village, and cars attend trains on
receipt of letter or wire. Terms Moderate.
Miss McGINLEY, Proprietress.
Glengarriff— Giant’s Causeway — Galway 7
c^lie^Ct-Aze^ir, ifp
-^i- CO. CORK. *1^-
THE MADEIRA OF IRELAND.
THE •«-
ECCL E’S HOTEL.
3fit*st=class jfamilE Ifootel.
Cook & Sons’ and other Coupons accepted.
-4* TERMS MODERATE. *4-
GIANT’S CAUSEWAY.
CAUSEWAY HOTEL.
•f^IRST - CLASS Tourists’
Jj Hotel, overlooking the
Atlantic, and close to the
Causeway.
The Giant’s Causeway Elec-
tric Tramway runs direct
from Portrush Railway Sta-
tion to the Hotel Grounds.
Golf Links adjacent, at
Portrush.
Post : “ Causeway Hotel,
Giant’s Causeway.”
T. DILLON & SONS,
MAKERS OF
THE CLADHAGII RING,
Original Makers of Claddagh Brooches,
Bangles, and Scarf Pins.
•^ Y ^ HIS Mark D. & S. had the distinguished honour of making,
by command, a Claddagh Ring for Her late Majesty
Queen Victoria, on Her Majesty’s last visit to
Ireland. History of Ring free on application.
Connemara Marble Ornaments & Jewellery.
You Know Them. T. DILLON & SONS, Irish Art Jewellers,
GALWAY and ATHLONE.
8
Galway — Greystones — Gweedore
Gh JL. JJTXTj&rsr.
MAHON’S HOTEL,
FORSTER STREET.
W ITHIN one minute’s walk of Railway Station. Every want attended
to. CHARGES MODERATE. A Select Bar attached. A
Well Appointed Car attends the arrival and departure of all Trains and
Steamers. There is an extensive Yard, with Coach Houses and Stabling in
connection with the premises.
JAMES MAHON, Proprietor.
GRAND HOTEL,
GREYSTONES.
Three minutes' walk from station on the Dublin, Wicklow,
and Wexford Railway.
B EAUTIFULLY situated, and within easy access of the
scenery of Co. Wicklow. Hot and Cold Fresh Water
Baths. Excellent Sea Bathing. Suites of Rooms for
Families. Sanitary arrangements and ventilation perfect.
Vartry Water. Tennis grounds attached, and Golf Links in
connection with the Hotel. Good Stabling.
For terms, which are moderate, apply to the MANAGER.
MOTOR GARAGE. PETROL STOCKED.
Cook’s Hotel Coupons Accepted.
The Windsor,
The Ideal Magazine for the home.
GWEEDORE HOTEL
Co. DONEGAL.
B EAUTIFULLY situated in the midst of magnificent
mountain scenery, in the heart of the Donegal High-
lands. Seven new bedrooms added. The Coaches in con-
nection with the New Donegal Service leave the Hotel daily.
Salmon , Sea 9 and Brown Trout Fishing .
A. ROBERTSON, Manager.
Post and Telegrabh Office in the HoUl.
Kerry Fjords
9
COUNTY KERRY.
SOUTHERN HOTELS
Under the Management of the
Great Southern & Western Railway, Ireland.
HEALTH & PLEASURE RESORTS.
Shooting, Fishing, Golf, Boating, Bathing , etc.
Southern Hotel, Parknasilla.
Situated on Grand Atlantic Coast Route.
This Hotel is a comparatively recently built one. It stands
on an inlet of the sea, 15 miles by road from Kenmare Rail-
way Station. Its grounds of over 200 acres are well wooded
and sheltered. It affords excellent Sea Bathing, Fishing,
and Boating, and is an ideal holiday resort.
Bishop’s House Hotel, Parknasilla
(unlicensed).
Open June to October. Sheltered position. Tariff 7/6
per day.
Southern Hotel, Waterville.
On the shore of Bough Currane, and within half a mile of
the sea. Salmon and Trout Fishing commences here on 1st
February. There is an excellent 9-hole Golf Links within
1 J- miles. Hotel Cars meet guests, if advised, at Cahirciveen
Railway Station.
Southern Hotel, Caragh Lake.
Within half a mile of G. S. & W. Railway Station ; beauti-
fully situated on the shore of Caragh Lake, and surrounded
by unrivalled scenery. The Company has secured extensive
and exclusive Fishing and Shooting rights, and good Links,
for the use of its guests. Trout Hatchery in grounds.
Southern Hotel, Kenmare.
This House has been quite recently built, and will be found
replete with every modern comfort and convenience, in-
cluding Electric Light. It is just on the outskirts of the
town, and commands a grand view of the Kenmare Sound
and surrounding country. Coaches run daily during the
Tourist Season from this Hotel to Parknasilla, Waterville,
Cahirciveen, and also to Glengarriff and Killarney.
There are excellent Golf Links adjoining the Hotel Grounds.
Coupons issued to any of above Hotels at Dublin (Kingsbridge), Cork,
and Waterford Stations.
Full particulars of any of the above Hotels may be obtained on application
to the Manager,
Southern Hotel, Kenmare, Co- Kerry.
10
Killary Bay — Limerick — Milford — Narin
BEAUTIFUL RESORT— CONNEMARA.
LEENANE HOTEL,
KILLARY BAY.
i|JVERY Ccmfort provided in this First-class Hotel. Shooting. Salmon,
Trout, and Sea Fishing. Boating. Good Sea Bathing. Bathing
Boxes. Sailing Boats.
Excursions, Daily Arranged, through the midst of the
Most Entrancing Scenery.
R. H. McKEOWN, Proprietor.
The GLENTWORTH
Is the leading Hotel in Limerick, and is patronised by
the nobility and gentry visiting the City. Its chief
characteristics are Cleanliness, Perfect Sanitation,
and Moderate Terms. ’Buses and Staff meet all
Trains and Steamers.
KENNA BROS., Proprietors.
FREE SALMON & TROUT FISHING
lt^IGHTEEN miles of the River Lannan and Lough Fern. Excellent
Salmon and Trout Fishing quite free. River and Lake well stocked
with fish from first April freshes. Nine trout lakes, including famous
Lough Keel, in immediate vicinity of Hotel. First-class Hotel. Excellent
cuisine. Splendidly situated in heart of Donegal Highlands. Moderate
Tariff. For further particulars apply to
Proprietor,
M’DEYITT’S HOTEL,
Milford, Co. Donegal.
THE PORTNOO HOTEL,
NAKIN, CO. DONEGAL.
7THE above Tourists’ Hotel is now open. Charming- situation overlooking- the
vL' Atlantic Ocean, seven miles from Glenties, five from Ardara, and four from the
Coach Line at Mause Bridge, and within easy distance of, all places of interest.
Splendid. Lake and Sea Fishing, Boating, and very safe Bathing. The combined
bracing air of mountain and sea makes the place a most health restoring resort.
Dining Rooms, Coffee Room, Smoking Room, Drawing Room (Piano), and Private
Sitting Room. Perfect and separate Sanitary accommodation for Ladies and
Gentlemen. Hot and Cold Baths. Moderate Tariff. 18-Hole Golf Links (laid out
by Hammill, Professional Royal Golf Links, Portrush,) within a mile of the Hotel.
For terms apply to the Manager, or to C. CANNON, Proprietor.
Combined Railway Tickets, including Hotel and Car Fare from Glenties and back,
issued by the Donegal Railway Co., at Strabane and Derry, from Friday till
Monday, Saturday till Monday, and for seven days. Cars attend all trains for
Visitors. Under the same Management,
THE GLENTIES TEMPERANCE HOTEL.
M alahide
ii
The Bethell Hotels Company, Ltd., Ireland
GRAND HOTEL, MALAHIDE
Beautifully situated on the Coast, 15 minutes
from Dublin.
GOLFING CENTRE, BOATINC & BATHING
Terms from 10/6 per day.
INTERNATIONAL HOTEL, BRAY
CO. WICKLOW,
Splendid situation, 30 minutes by rail from Dublin,
REDECORATED AND REFURNISHED,
Excellent Cuisine and Wines.
Terms from 10/6 per day.
BRAY HEAD HOTEL, BRAY
Situated under Bray Head, and commanding
magnificent views of Dublin Bay.
Remodelled, Redecorated, & Refurnished.
SANITARY ARRANGEMENTS NEW.
Terms from 10/6 per day.
♦
TARIFF AND FURTHER PARTICULARS SENT
ON APPLICATION.
12
Portrush — Portsalon — Rosslare — Sligo
PORTRUS H.
EGLINTON HOTEL
S PLENDID Situation. Facing Sea and Midland Rail-
way Station. Electric Trams start from the door for
the Giant’s Causeway.
HS/fOIDZEZE^^T'IE TEieiMIS-
Porter Meets all Tx*aiixs.
H. G. BOWER Manager.
(Late Northern Counties Hotel.)
C O. DONEG-A L.
PORTSALON HOTEL
(ON LOUGH SWILLY.)
T HIS Excellent Hotel, which affords first-class accommodation, and
every comfort to Families, Golfers, and other Tourists, is magnifi-
cently situated, with southern aspect, and commands sea and mountain
views of matchless beauty. The Golf Links (18 Holes) are the most sporting
and picturesque in the country. Good Lake and Sea Fishing, Boating,
Bathing, Tennis, Croquet, Billiards, Cycle Stores, Dark Boom for Photo-
graphy, & c. Route via Londonderry and Rathmullen, thence by Coach
daily on arrival of midday steamer. For particulars apply MANAGER.
Telegrams — “Hotfl, Portsalon.”
ROSSLARE HOTEL
T HIS New Hotel, three storeys high, which is built on the
Beautiful Strand of Rosslare, is unrivalled for its
Position, Comfort, Cuisine, Wines, and Moderate Charges ;
and, having a Promenade Roof, commands a fine view of
Bay and Rosslare Harbour and surrounding districts. Hot
and Cold Sea and Fresh Water Baths. Post and Telegraph
Office adjoins this Hotel.
W. J. KELLY, Proprietor.
V I c t o ria 3 ho tel.
Patronised by His Excellency the Lord Lieutenant
(Earl Dudley), the Nobility and Gentry.
'TOURISTS, Anglers, and Families will find every convenience, com-
1 bined with cleanliness and moderate charges. PRIVATE ROOMS.
LADIES’ SITTING ROOMS. BATHS— Hot, Cold, and Shower.
BILLIARDS. GOLF.
Gentlemen staying at this Hotel have the privilege of Free Fishing for
Salmon and Trout in Loch Gill. Boats for hire. Posting in all its Branches.
Omnibus attends all trains. Cook’s Coupons accepted.
J. A. HALL, Proprietor.
Waterford — Waterville — Steamer Routes
13
WATERFORD K&j
IMPERIAL HOTEL.
F IRST-CLASS HOTEL, patronised by the Aristocracy,
Tourists, and Commercial Gentlemen. Recently en-
larged, refurnished, and decorated. Sanitation certified.
Tariff moderate. Table d’Hote daily at 7.30. Excellent
Cuisine. Hotel ’Buses meet all trains and steamers.
W. A. MURRAY, Proprietor.
Telephone No. 22 . Telegrams — “ Imperial , Waterford .”
WATERVILLE, CO. KERRY.
BAY VIEW HOTEL.
'TT'HIS HOTEL is beautifully situated close to the Sea, where first-class
Bathing and Boating can be had in front of the Hotel. Salmon and
Sea Trout Fishing Free on two rivers and three lakes, also 60,000 acres of
the best winter shooting in Ireland, also free to visitors. Lawn Tennis,
Billiards. A nine-hole Golf Course has recently been formed, and is now
considered equal to any in Ireland. Scenery magnificent — lake, sea, and
mountain. Tourist Coaches arrive daily from Railway Station and to and
from Parknasilla. Charges very moderate.
— — <*■
VALENCIA, CO. KERRY.
ROYAL HOTEL.
7 THIS HOTEL has been patronised by His Majesty the King, their
w Royal Highnesses the Prince and Princess of Wales, the Duke and
Duchess of Connaught, and their Excellencies Lord and Lady Cadogan.
This Hotel is considered one of the most comfortable and best-appointed
Hotels in Ireland. Hot and Cold Sea Water Baths. Sea Fishing and
Bathing in front of the Hotel. The Scenery on Valencia is considered the
finest in Ireland.
SCOTLAND AND IRELAND. Royal Hail line.
Q UICKEST, Cheapest and Best Route between all parts of Scotland
and the North of Ireland. Mail Service twice every evening
(Sundays excepted) to and from all parts of Ireland via Belfast ; and
all parts of Scotland, via Glasgow, via Greenock, and vid Ardrossan.
DAYLIGHT SERVICE DURING SUMMER SEASON.
Glasgow to Belfast and back same day, by “ Adder ” from Ardrossan.
Also Steamers between Glasgow and Manchester, three times weekly,
Glasgow and Liverpool (calling at Greenock). From three to four
times Weekly each way. Cheap Excursion Fares. See Newspaper
Advertisements. Glasgow and Londonderry (calling at Greenock).
Twice weekly. For full details see Advts. and Sailing Bills , or apply to
6. & J. Burns, Ld., Glasgow, Belfast, Londonderry, Manchester & Liverpool
Steamer Routes
14
GRAND HOLIDAY SEA TRIPS
(Magnificent Coast Scenery)
BETWEEN
LONDON & DUBLIN
AND THE
SOUTH OP ENGLAND,
The best route for Cornwall, Devon, Wilts, Sussex, Kent, Essex,
Hants, and Surrey, and for the Scilly Islands, the Isle of Wight,
the Channel Islands, and France.
THE LARGE FIRST-CLASS STEAMERS OF THE
British & Irish Steam Packet Company, Ltd,,
Leave London and Dublin twice a week, calling both ways at
Portsmouth, Southampton, Plymouth, and Falmouth.
l From, London — Sundays and Wednesdays.
OuilUlg Ddjo j From Dublin— Wednesdays and Saturdays.
FLEET
“ Lady Roberts ” 1,462 tons ! “ Lady Wolseley ” 1,424 tons
“ Lady Hudson-Kinahan ” 1,372 ,, | “ Lady Martin ” 1,355 ,,
“ Lady Olive ” 1,096 tons
These vessels have superior accommodation for First and Second Cabin and
Steerage Passengers, are fitted with Electric Light, have Deck State Rooms,
Smoke Rooms, &c., and carry Stewards and 3 tewardesses.
Circular Tours from LONDON to Killarney, Cork and South of
Ireland, Isle of Man, Glasgow. &c., from SOUTH OF ENGLAND
Ports to Isle of Man. Connemara, and West of Ireland (June
to September) and from DUBLIN to Channel Islands and
France, via Southampton.
Scilly Islands. — Passengers for these charming Islands land at Falmouth
and travel via Penzance.
London, Dublin, and Isle of Man Tours, 42 /- Return 1 st Class
to Dublin by this Company s Steamers, thence by Isle of Man
S.P. Company s Steamers, or per S.S. “YARROW.’ Splendid
Summer Service from Dublin. From Portsmouth & Southamp-
ton, £ 2 ; Plymouth, £1 15 s. ; Falmouth, £1 12 s. 6d.
SPECIAL CHEAP EXCURSION TICKETS,
First and Second Cabin, available for 16 days, are issued between any two
of the following Ports— Dublin, Falmouth, Plymouth, Southampton,
Portsmouth, at a Single Fare and a Quarter.
Ordinary Return Tickets are available for three months. 63
Private Cabins can be reserved on payment of extra charge on early ^
application being made for same. 2
Company’s Illustrated Handbook sent post free from any of the ^
Company’s Offices, or obtainable on board the Steamers.
AGENTS : — 30, Eden Quay, Dublin, Carolin & Egan. London :
James Hartley & Co., 19, Leadenhall Street, E.C. ; North Quay, Eastern
Basin, London Docks, E. Plymouth : R. Clark & Son, Millbay Pier ;
H. J. Waring & Co., Millbay Pier. Southampton : Le Feuvre & Son,
8, Gloucester Square. Falmouth: W. & E. C. Came, Market Street.
Portsmouth: J. M. Harris, 10, Broad Street.
Tickets are also issued by 3Iessrs. THOS. COOK & SON,
Dublin and London , and Rranches.
Chief Offices : — 3, North Wall, Dublin. A. W. Egan, Secretary.
Telegraphic Address : — “AWE, DUBLIN.”
■Dublin Temporary Rerth, 64, Sir John Rogerson’s Quay.
Steamer Routes
15
CITY OF DUBLIN STEAM PACKET CO.
DUBLIN AND LONDON.
ROYAL MAIL NEW RAPID SERVICE.
Via Kirgstown & Holyhead. Fastest & Best Passenger Route.
The Magnificent Twin Screw Steamers “Ulster,” “Leinster,” “Munster,’ or
“Connaught,” 3.000 Tons, 9,000 H.P., Speed 24 Knots, Sail Twice each way Daily
with Mails and Passengers. Sea Passage 2 Hours 45 Minutes.
THROUGH COMMUNICATION BETWEEN KINGSTOWN
AND THE INTERIOR OF IRELAND.
Through Carriages are run to and from Kingstown Pier in connection with the Night
Mail Packets and the Great Northern, the Great Southern and Western, and the Mid-
land Great Western Railway Companies’ Mail Trains, so that Passengers can avoid all
the expense and inconvenience of a journey through the streets of Dublin.
Through Carriages are also run from Kingstown Pier to Amiens Street, &c., in con-
nection with the Day Mail Packet.
Beductioxi of Fa,x*es.
Third Class Fares by Mail Trains.— Passengers by D. W. & W., Gt. N. (I.), Gt.
S. & W., and M. G. W. Trains can now be booked 1st, 2nd, and 3rd class Rail and
class Steamer, or 2nd class or 3rd class Rail and 2nd class Steamer.
RETURN TICKETS are available for TWO MONTHS.
SEA FARES BETWEEN KINGSTOWN AND HOLYHEAD.
( Tickets to be obtained on Board the Mail Packet).
First Class, Single, 10s. ; Return, 15s. | Second Class, Single, 7s. ; Return, 10s. 6d.
Passengers sleeping at Kingstown must be on board before 12.30 a. in.
Passengers may remain on board the Packet at Kingstown after arrival in the morning
until 8 a.m., and on' Sundays until 9 a.m.
Note.— Holders of Return halves of Tickets (Tourist or Ordinary) for London and
North Western Company’s North Wall Route, available in the Saloon of the Express
Steamers, can travel in the First Class Saloon of the Kingstown and Holyhead Mail'
Packets by payment of the difference of fares ; and in the Second Cabin of the Mail
Packets without any extra charge. These Tickets are available between Kingstown
and Westland Row Stations. Beds provided on board the Mail Packets for Passengers
if required, charge 2s. each. Baths, is. each.
♦
DUBLIN & LIVERPOOL.
The Company’s Fast and Powerful Steamers, “Kilkenny,” “Cork,” “Kerry,’'
“ Carlow, ” “Wicklow,” “Louth,” etc., sail Twice Daily each way. Sea Passage
8 Hours.
DUBLIN (North Wall) to LIVERPOOL, Week-days (Saturdays excepted) at 12
noon and 8 p.m. ; Saturdays at 2 p.m. and 8 p.m. LIVERPOOL (Nelson Dock or
Prince’s Landing Stage) to DUBLIN, Twice Daily. For times, &c., see Sailing Lists.
FARES BETWEEN DUBLIN AND LIVERPOOL.
Cabin, Single, 13s. 6d. ; Return (available for Two Months), 21s. Deck, Single, 4 s.;
Return (available for Two Months), 6s. 6d.
On every FRIDAY and SATURDAY, CABIN EXCURSION TICKETS are issued
at Single Fares for the Double Journey, available for Return on an)' week-day within
Sixteen Days from date of issue. Deck, 5 s.
A Daily Omnibus Service is run in connection with the Company’s Steamers and
Liverpool Stations, conveying Through-booked Passengers and their Luggage,
free of charge.
DUBLIN & BELFAST, with Passengers & Goods, Thrice Weekly,
in each direction. ( For particulars see Sailing Bills.)
PASSENGERS’ FARES :— Cabin Fares, 6s. ; Return, 10s. ; Deck, 3s. ; Return, 5s.
(available for Two Mpnths).
Head Offic:-15, EDEN QUAY, DUBLIN.
i6
Steamer Routes
Visit CORK
and the
South-West of Ireland
Inuigorating Holiday Trips by Steamer,
Coach, and Rail.
THE CITY OF CORK
STEAM PACKET COMPANY
ARE ISSUING AT
London, Liverpool, Bristol, Milford,
Southampton, and Plymouth,
CHEAP CIRCULAR TICKETS,
Which, in addition to a pleasant Sea Trip, afford
Tourists an opportunity of visiting the
LAKES OF KIX-LAKKTEY,
BAXTRY BA Y,
GLENGARKIFF, «Sc c.
Through Fares from London and Great Western Stations
by the Popular new Milford and Cork DIRECT ROUTE.
Write for Programme of specially arranged Tours, embracing
the finest Mountain, Lake, and Coast Scenery in the British
Isles, and full particulars of sailings.
The City of Cork Steam Packet Company, Limited, Cork.
Railway Routes
i7
DUBLIN AND BLESSINGTON
STEAM TRAMWAY CO.
T HIS STEAM TRAMWAY runs through the most picturesque scenery
in the counties of Dublin and Wicklow, and the extension of the line
to the celebrated Falls of the Liffey, at Poulaphouca, brings visitors to
one of the most delightful tourist resorts in Ireland, and which is within
easy reach of Dublin.
During the Summer Season Through Tickets from the City to Poulaphouca
(at 3 /- first class and 2 /- third class), are issued at Messrs. Cook’s
Offices, 147, Grafton Street, and on the Cars of the Rathmines line of the
Dublin United Tramways Company, starting at Nelson’s Pillar ; full
particulars as to which, as well as information as to the hours of the
trains, fares, pedestrian and cycling tours in the neighbourhood of the
line, can be obtained from the Company’s Guide, which is to be had at
the D.U.T. Co.’s Offices, 9, Upper Sackville Street ; 31, Lower Sackville
Street ; 62, Dawson Street; and 117, Grafton Street, or at the Company’s
Offices, Terenure.
For description of the line, etc., see pages 105-114 of Ward, Lock & Co.’s
Guide to Dublin and the Wicklow Tours.
H. O. TISDALL, Secretary.
LONDONDERRY AND LOUGH 8WILLY
RAILWAY.
— —
DIRECT ROUTE TO HIGHLANDS OF DONEGAL,
Including the Tourist Resorts of
Buncrana & Portsalon, on Lough Swilly, Ballyliffen,
Culdaff, Malin, Rosapenna (Carrigart), Dunfanaghy
for Horn Head, Falearagh, Gweedore, Dungloe, and
Burtonport.
Excellent Hotels, Salt Water & Medicinal Baths .
GOLF LINKS.
Good Fishing and Shooting. Magnificent Scenery.
Trains from Derry to Fahan, Buncrana, Carndonagh, Letterkenny, and
Burtonport in connection with Mail Trains from Larne, Belfast, and
Dublin. Coach to and from Portsalon and Rathmullan daily.
Through Bookings from L. & N.W. and Midland Railway Stations, also
at London Office, 2, Charing Cross, London ; T. Cook & Son ; M’Crea &
M’Farlands, Royal Avenue, Belfast; and G.N. and B. & N.C. Railways.
R. S. MOORE, Traffic Manager.
Irish Series. 190&-6 % ]
2
i8
Railway Routes
CORK AND MUSKERRY LIGHT RAILWAY.
Picturesque and Direct Route to the Famous Blarney Castle.
CORK TO BLARNEY IN THIRTY-FIVE MINUTES.
( Tourist Tickets are issued by Messrs. Thos . Cook and Sons.)
k£>4^>*.
The Terminus at Blarney is situated in the Castle Grounds,
and the Trains run up to the Castle Gate.
On Week Days.- Trains leave Western Road Terminus,
Cork, at 8.15 to 10 a.m., 12.5, 2.40, 4.15, and 6.15 p m.
Returning from Blarney at 9.5 and 11 a.m., 1.15, 3.25, 5.0,
and 7.0 p m.
Return Fares : First Class, 1/2 ; Third Class, lOd.
On Sundays, Reduced Fares. — Trains run from 10 a.m.
till 8 p.m. (see Time Tables).
Visitors to Blarney Castle and Grounds can obtain Admission Tickets at
Blarney Station, on production of this Company’s Ticket or Coupon, at 3 d.
each. Holders of other Tickets charged 6d.
The Railway passes through the most beautiful and charming country in
the South of Ireland, and runs close to Dripsey Castle and Shandy Hall.
There is also a station at St. Ann’s Hill, two minutes’ walk from the
celebrated Hydropathic Establishment. For further information, apply at
Wilkie’s Tourist Office, King Street, Cork ; Cook’s Tourist Office, Patrick
Street, Cork ; or to T. O’CONNOR,
Western Road Terminus, Cork. General Manager.
. . NOYELS BY . .
JOSEPH HOCKING
In Uniform Bindings. Crown 8 vo., cloth gilt, 3 s. 6 d.
Just Ready.
ROG-XSR TRJE! WIKTIOW.
Illustrations by GUNNING KING.
ALREADY PUBLISHED
The Coming of the King
Esau
Greater Love
Lest We Forget
The Purple Robe
The Scarlet Woman
The Birthright
Mistress Nancy
Molesworth
Fields of Fair Renown
And shall Trelawney
Die?
All Men are Liars
Ishmael Pengelly: An
Outcast
The Story of Andrew
Fairfax
Jabez Easterbrook
The Weapons of
Mystery
Zillah
The Monk of Mar-Saba
LONDON: WARD, LOCK & CO., LIMITED.
Railway Routes
19
VISIT KILKEE,
SPANISH POINT,
LAHINGH, LISDOONVARNA
AND THE
Unrivalled Cliff and Coast Scenery
OF
West CLiARE.
^
THE DIRECT ROUTE
TO THESE
Famous Health and Pleasure Resorts
IS BY THE
WEST & SOUTH GLARE RAILWAYS
From ENNIS to ENNISTYMON (for Lisdoonvarna)
LAHINCH (for the Golf Greens and the Cliffs of Moher)
MILLTOWN-MALBAY (for Spanish Point), and
HllaHEE.
THROUGH TOURIST TICKETS are issued at the
principal Railway Stations in Ireland and England ; also
at the Offices of Thos. Cook & Son, and Dean & Dawson ;
and at the Irish Railway Companies’ Tourist Office, 2,
Charing Cross, London, S.W.
For information as to Fares, Routes, Hotels, Golfing,
Fishing, &c., apply to —
' PATRICK SULLIVAN, Manager.
West Clare Railway , Ennis, 1905,
20
Kailway Routes
Lancashire and Yorkshire and London and
North-Western Railways.
TO AND FROM
NORTH of IRELAND
VIA
FLEETWOOD, BELFAST and LONDONDERRY.
The Lancashire and Yorkshire and London and North-Western Companies'
Twin Screw Steamers,
* Duke of Connaught ‘Duke of Cornwall ‘ Duke of
Tancasterf * Duke of York * Duke of Clarence
Sail daily (Sundays excepted) between FLEETWOOD and BELFAST,
and on Wednesdays and Saturdays from FLEETWOOD to LONDON-
DERRY, and on Tuesdays and Fridays from LONDONDERRY to
FLEETWOOD.
EXPRESS TRAINS are run in connection with the boats between
Manchester, Liverpool, Bolton, Bradford, Leeds, Sheffield, Harro-
gate, York, Newcastle, Birmingham, London, and other important
places, and Fleetwood.
The Boat Train from Fleetwood to Manchester, in connection with the
Steamers from Belfast and Londonderry, is a Vestibule Breakfast
Car train.
These Steamers are built upon the most approved principles. The
Saloons and State Rooms are amidships. The Steamers are fitted with
Electric Light, Baths, and all modern conveniences for the comfort of the
Passengers.
The Station at Fleetwood is situated on the Pier, and the Trains run direct
to and from the Steamers, therefore
No expense is incurred in transferring Luggage between
Train and Steamer.
Fleetwood is unrivalled as a Sttam-packet Station for the North of Ireland,
and the unexampled regularity with which the Belfast line of steamers have
made the passage between the two ports for more than forty years is
probably without a parallel in steamboat service, and has made this route
the most popular, as it is certainly the most expeditious and desirable, for
passengers^ goods, and merchandise, between the great centres of commerce
in England and the North and North-West cf Ireland.
Passengers, Goods, and Live Stock forwarded to and from all parts ot
England. Through Rates with most places in England.
Applications for State Rooms or Berths should be addressed as under: —
From Fleetwood to Belfast and Londonderry— To Captain J. E.
Jackson, Fleetwood. Telegraphic Address, “Captain Jackson,
Fleetwood.”
From Belfast to Fleetwood— To Mr. A. T. Cotton, 20, Donegall
Quay. Telegraphic Address, “ Marine, Belfast.” To Mr. J. A.
Ferris, L. & Y. Railway, 7, Donegall Place, or to Mr. R.
Woodney, L. & N. W. Railway, 26, Royal Avenue, Belfast.
From Londonderry to Fleetwood— To Messrs. Pinkerton & Co.,
Joint Agents, Londonderry; C. T. Wise, L. & Y. Railway,
Waterloo Place; or to H. Henderson, L. & N. W. Railway,
Foyle Street, Londonderry.
For further information apply to the above, and also to S. Whitehall,
Joint Superintendent ; W. Smith, Goods Department, Fleetwood ; of tp
any L. & Y. or L. & N. W. Station.
Railway Routes
21
London and North-Western Railway.
ENGLAND & IRELAND.
— —
L. & N. W. Mail and Express Routes.
Yia HOLYHEAD and GREENORE
for Dundalk, Rostrevor, Warrenpoint, Newry,
Newcastle, Londonderry, Donegal, Belfast, Lough
Erne, Portrush, Giant’s Causeway.
A Breakfast Car is attached to the Morning Boat Train for Belfast,
which leaves Greenore after arrival of the Express Steamer in
connection with the 7.30 p.m. Fast Dining Car Train from Euston
(Saturdays excepted).
A Dining Car is run by the 6.45 p.m. Train from Belfast to
Greenore, which connects with the Express Boat and Train Service
( via Holyhead) to London and all parts of England.
Yia HOLYHEAD & NORTH WALL (Dublin)
or KINGSTOWN
for Killarney Lakes, Cork, Connemara, Galway, Sligo,
River Shannon, Lough Derg, Lough Ree.
Yia FLEETWOOD or LIYERPOOL for Belfast
Yia CARLISLE, STRANRAER, and LARNE
for Belfast.
The principal Hotels in Ireland are very comfortable, and the tariffs
moderate
Tourists and others will find Ireland an ideal country for Holidays and
Sport, combining many attractions which are sought at greater distances.
GREENORE (CARLINGFORD LOUGH, IRELAND).
Excellent accommodate- is provided at the London and North Western
Railway Company’s Hotel at Greenore, the improvement and enlarge-
ment of which have been completed. Conveniently arranged Bungalows
have also been erected in a pleasant situation facing Carlingford Lough.
Golf Links (18-hole Course) and Club House have also been provided
by the Company, and of these Residents in the Hotel have free use.
Full pension from 70s. per week.
Passengers with Through Tickets between England and the North of
Ireland are allowed to break the journey at Greenore.
FREDERICK HARRISON,
Puston Station , 1905 , General Manager ,
22
Guide Book Advertiser
MRS. BEETON’S
Famous Cookery Books
Strongly bound in Half-roan , 7s. 6d. ; Half-morocco or
Half-calf, 12s , 6d,; Tree-calf, 18s.
Mrs. Beeton’s Book of Household
Management. About 1,700 pages, with Thousands of
Recipes and Instructions, Hundreds of Engravings, and New
Coloured Cookery Plates. With Quantities, Time, Cost, and
Seasons, Directions for Carving and Trussing, Management of
Children, Economy of the Kitchen, Duties of Servants, the Doctor,
Legal Memoranda, and Bills of Fare and Menus of all kinds and for
all Seasons.
Large Crown 8vo, strongly bound , Half-roan, 5s.
Mrs. Beeton’s Family Cookery and
Housekeeping Book. Embracing a Complete Dictionary
of Cookery, and a Comprehensive and Practical Guide to
Domestic Management. Comprising about 800 pages, 550 En-
gravings, and Eight Coloured Cookery Plates.
Large Crown 8vo , Cloth gilt , 3s. 6d.
Mrs. Beeton’s Every-Day Cookery
and Housekeeping Book. New Coloured Plates and
600 Engravings.
Crown 8vo , Cloth gilt, 2s. 6d.
Mrs. Beeton’s All About Cookery.
Containing 2,000 Recipes, 450 Pages, Coloured Plates, and 500
Illustrations.
Crown 8vo, Cloth, Is.
Mrs. Beeton’s Cookery Book and
Household Guide. Entirely New and Enlarged Edition,
greatly improved ; containing upwards of 1,000 Recipes, nearly
200 Fine Illustrations and Five Co 1 ""red Plates, beautifully
produced, far ahead of anything of the kind hitherto attempted.
Marketing, Vegetarian Cookery, Menus, Table Arrangement, Trus-
sing, Carving, &c., &c., with Quantities, Time, Cost, and Seasons.
New Penny Cookery Book.
Crown 8vo, Coloured Wrapper, 96 pages, containing about 200
Economical Recipes, and Useful Instructions for the Practical
Housekeeper ; with about 60 Illustrations in the text.
LONDON : WARD , LOCK & CO., LTD .
Guide Book Advertiser
*3
E. P. Oppenheim’s
POPULAR NOVELS.
+ _
THE MASTER MUMMER. 6s.
Illustrations by F. H. Townsend.
THE BETRAYAL . 6s.
Illustrations by John Cameron.
ANN A y THE ADVENTURESS. 6s.
Illustrations by F. H. Townsend.
THE YELLOW CRAYON. 6s.
Illustrations by Oscar Wilson.
A PRINCE OF SINNERS. 6s.
Illustrations by Oscar Wilson.
THE TRAITORS. 6s.
Illustrations by Oscar Wilson.
THE GREA T A WA KEN IN G. 6 s.
Illustrations by F. H. Townsend.
THE SURVIVOR. 6s.
Illustrations by Stanley L. Wood.
A MILLIONAIRE OF YESTERDAY. 6s.
Illustrations by Stanley L. Wood.
THE MYSTERY OF MR. BERNARD BROWN.
3s. 6d. Illustrated
THE WORLD 9 S GREAT SNARE. 3s. 6d.
Illustrations by J. Ambrose Walton.
A DAUGHTER OF THE MARION IS. 3s. 6d.
Illustrations by Adolf Thiede.
A MONK OF CRUTA. 3s. 6d.
Illustrations by Warne Browne.
THE MAN AND HIS KINGDOM. 3s. 6d.
illustrations by Stanley L. Wood.
MYSTERIOUS MR. SABIN. 3s. 6d.
Illustrations by J. Ambrose Walton.
AS A MAN LIVES. 3s. 6d.
Illustrations by Stanley L. Wood.
London: WARD, LOCK & CO., LTD.
24
Belfast — Dublin
AERATED WATERS
WORKS— Gt. Victoria St., BELFAST.
TODD, BURNS & CO.,
LIMITED,
MARY STREET, DUBLIN.
®Ij£ Itcabimj Drapers
AND
| JFnrnisIjm in lalanfc.
GOODS OF IRISH MANUFACTURE
OUR SPECIALITY.
GUIDE TO KILLARNEY
AND THE SOUTH-WEST OF IRELAND.
INTRODUCTION.
“ The south-western part of Kerry is well-known as the most beau-
tiful tract in the British Isles. The mountains, the glens, the
capes stretching far into the Atlantic, the crags on which the
eagles build, the rivulets brawling down the rocky passes, the
lakes overhung by groves in which the wild deer find coverts,
attract every summer crowds of wanderers, sated with the
business and the pleasures of great cities.” — Lord Macaulay.
HK world-famed Lakes of Killarney are situated in the
county of Kerry — the fourth in size and the most
romantic in character of Irish counties, enjoying the distinc-
tion of including within its borders the most westerly point
of land in the European continent, and the loftiest of the
Irish mountains, Carran Tual, the peak of which is 3,414 feet
above sea-level.
The district has long been admitted to be “ in point of
scenery the finest portion of the British Isles.” * In no
other part of these Islands is there to be found in such luxuri-
ance all those features of landscape that appeal by their
beauty to the gazer’s heart, elevate by their grandeur the
mind of the beholder, or, by their stern magnificence, impress
the imagination with the images of awe and majesty. Scenes
of soft loveliness, rich with the decoration of an almost tropi-
cal vegetation, intermingle on every hand in graceful contrast
with views of wild Alpine splendour, each reacting on the
other for the production of a perfect whole. So that, be the
mood of the traveller what it may, he here finds fully the
satisfaction of the eye, and yields with a sense of grateful ease
to the characteristic charm of this most lovely spot.
What it is that constitutes the charm of Killarney it would
* This was the expression used by the poet Wordsworth — cer-
tainly no mean judge of lake scenery — whose prejudices, if he had
any, might naturally be in favour of the lakes of Cumberland and
Westmorland.
Killarney Guide. a
KILLARNEY
be hard to tell. Writers without number have laboured to
describe the feelings with which these scenes have inspired
them, but no description can convey to the reader the name-
less influences of sky and air which combine with the material
beauties of mountain, wood, and water to confer upon this
favoured region its especial claim to the title of “ the Eden
of the west.” Killarney, to be conceived of, must be seen,
and happy indeed is he who sees it in its fairer moods, the
veritable “ reflex of heaven.”
“ The principal charm of Killarney,” says an eloquent and
distinguished writer, “consists in its magical variety. Like
the beauty of Nourmahal, it is not by a monotonous perfec-
tion that it pleases, but by an ever-animated, ever-changing
fascination which every mist that sleeps on its waters, every
ray that glances on its mountain tops, every breath that
ruffles its bosom, every season that clothes, or strips, or
diversifies its mountain woods, exhibits under a new aspect
of loveliness, imbued afresh with a thousand prismatic
colours. Every step you take you imagine that, like the
illusive landscape that mocked whilst it enchanted the vision
of the Red Cross Knight, all the objects around you are
undergoing a visible metamorphosis. Not a rock, not a wave,
not a tree, from the Druidical oak to the diamond-hung
arbutus, that does not alter its aspect with the position you
take, and appear as if spangled anew with a fresh coat of
sparkling tints and hues ; whilst the silvery mists that rise
like guardian spirits from the depths of the lakes, the fairy
voices that respond at every call, the ever-moving lights and
shadows which are continually revealing or shrouding some
prominent feature of the landscape, never suffer the intensity
of your interest to subside. Nor is there anything incon-
gruous in the disposition of the surrounding objects. The high-
lands and the valleys, the animated and the solitary regions,
the still grotto ?s and the surrounding cataracts, the wildness
and the bloom, the lofty and the gentle features of the scene,
blend harmoniously together. Its solemnity is always re-
lieved by its brilliancy, and its brilliancy ever chastened by
the continual presence of its awful mountains. Add to this
that every rock has its legend, every island its tale of marvel.”
The first impression that strikes the visitor to Killarney is
the extraordinary wealth of trees and rare flowering plants
that cover the district, in some places growing apparently out
of the solid rock ; the noble shapes and great height of the
b
c
THE MEETING OF THE WATERS, KILLARNEY.
KILLARNEY
mountains, and the gorgeous colouring in which Nature is
arrayed. Here the dark rich green of the arbutus, there the
pearly grey of the rocks, or the deep purple of the mountains,
forms a background upon which are relieved with inexpres-
sibly brilliant effect the lighter hues of forest trees and shrubs.
“ Such varied and vigorous vegetation,” says Mr. Alfred
Austin, the Poet Laureate, “ I have seen no otherwhere ;
and when one has said that, one has gone far towards award-
ing the prize for natural beauty. But vegetation, at once
robust and graceful, is but the fringe and decoration of that
enchanting district. The tender grace of wood and water is
set in a framework of hills — now stern, now ineffably gentle ;
now dimpling with smiles, now frowning and rugged with
impending storm ; now muffled and mysterious with mist,
only to gaze out on you again with clear and candid sunshine.
But the first, the final, the deepest and most enduring im-
pression of Killarney is that of beauty unspeakably tender,
which puts on at times a garb of grandeur and a look of awe,
only in order to heighten by passing contrast the sense of soft
insinuating loveliness.”
The finest general view of the lake country is that from
the elevated ridges at the southern end of the Upper Lake,
on the road from Glengariff. Here at a sudden turn, as at
the lifting of a curtain, the three lakes flash upon the eye
at a glance, lying in their wondrous valley as if sleeping
secure in the guardianship of the encircling hills.
Throughout the entire district, as if to enhance its purely
natural attractiveness with the touch of human sympathy,
are scattered numerous memorials of the greatness or piety
of the past — the mystic stone circles wherein the Druids
celebrated their mysterious rites ; the venerable abbeys of
Aghadoe, Innisfallen and Muckross, looming out over the
placid water of the lake, conspicuous in the landscape.
Killarney, in the numberless objects of interest, scenic and
historic, that it offers to the sightseer, may be said to present
an embarras de richesse.
“ Nowhere in the kingdom,” says a leading medical writer,*
who has made tourist resorts a special study, “ can a more
delightful holiday be spent than here ; each day there are
new scenes and new sights to be visited, and the eye never
tires or grows weary. It is one continued glimpse of fairy-
land — a region of enchantments.”
* Dr. Edgar Flinn, Irish Health Resorts and Watering Places.
ROUTES AND FARES.
T HERE was a time, not very long since, when the journey
from England or Scotland to the South-West of Ireland
could not be accomplished without a number of fatiguing and
often perplexing changes ; but thanks to the excellent arrange-
ments now in force, the traveller has but to step from train to
boat, and from boat to train, and for the rest may admire the
scenery or read his newspaper without a care.
I. — The Journey via Dublin.
The well-known Irish Mail Trains of the London
lr jRoute ail an d North-Western Railway leave Euston Sta-
tion, London, daily, at 8.30* a. m. and 8.45 p.m.
(on Sundays at the latter hour only), and reach Holyhead at
2.5 p.m. and 2.17 a.m. respectively, passengers at once
stepping on board one of the four fine twin-screw steamers,
Ulster , Munster, Leinster, and Connaught, belonging to the
City of Dublin Steam Packet Company. These vessels rival
in the luxuriousness of their appointments, and in their
precautions for the safety of passengers, the great ocean
liners. Each vessel possesses engines of 9,000 horse power,
and is capable of a speed of 24 knots an hour. They are
flush-decked, 372 feet in length, and 41 feet 6 inches in
breadth. The dining saloons, the drawing rooms, the
smoking rooms, the cosy sleeping cabins are all of the latest
design and sumptuously furnished. The passage to Kings-
town takes two hours and three-quarters, often only two
hours and a half ; and on arrival at that port passengers
find a train waiting alongside the landing-stage, by means
of which they reach Dublin (Westland Row) either at 5.30
p.m. or 6 a.m.f
* Whenever times and fares are mentioned, the reader is recom-
mended to verify them by the current time-tables of the companies
concerned, in case of change.
f The return trains in connection with the mail boats leave West-
land Row railway station at 8 a.m. (Dublin time) and 7.45 p.m.,
Killarnsy ('?) x
2 GUIDE TO SOUTH-WEST IRELAND
It is important to bear in mind that Dublin time is twenty-
five minutes behind Greenwich time, and that the former is
kept on all Irish railways.
Passengers can book first, second or third class rail and
saloon by the mail steamers, or second or third class rail
and second cabin by the mail steamers, through tickets
being issued for each class. Third-class passengers are
carried by all trains on the Great Southern and Western
Railway (Ireland).
THE “ ULSTER ” (IRISH MAIL BOAT).
Breakfast and luncheon are served on the morning mail
from London to Holyhead, and luncheon and tea on the
return day mail from Holyhead to London. Passengers
desirous of dining on the way to Holyhead may leave Euston
in the dining car express at 7 p.m., timed to reach Holyhead
an hour before the 8.45 (i.e. 1.15 a.m.) night mail. Sleeping
and arrive at Euston station at 5.40 p.m. (London time) and 6.10
a.m. Sundays, leave Westland Row at 8 a.m. and 7.45 p.m., and
arrive at Euston 8.20 p.m. and 6.10 a.m.
ROUTES AMD FARES
Cats are attached to the night mails up and down (ys. 6 d>
per berth, in addition to first-class fare).
Carriages are run in connection with the steamers from
Kingstown Pier direct to Kingsbridge, the Dublin terminus
of the Great Southern and Western Railway, by which line
we travel to Killarney and Cork, so that passengers can
avoid the expense and inconvenience of a journey through
the streets of Dublin.
It should perhaps be mentioned for the benefit of those
who have a constitutional objection to early rising that
passengers by the night boats may, if they so desire, remain
on board at Kingstown until 8 a.m. week-days, and 9 a.m.
Sundays. A special express leaves Kingstown for Westland
Row at 7.55 a.m. week-days, and 8.45 a.m. Sundays.
Tourists who wish to make a break at Dublin can easily
do so — and that it is worth doing a glance at the Guide to
Dublin in this series will show — but those whose eagerness
to explore the beautiful district described in this volume will
not permit of delay, may secure a seat which, in the summer
at least, need not be vacated until they reach the station at
Killarney or Cork, according to destination, through carriages
being run from Dublin direct to Killarney as well as
direct to Cork. The “ Killarney Express ” (the fastest train
in Ireland) leaves Dublin (Kingsbridge) every week-day
during July, August and September at 4 p.m., arriving at
Killarney at 8.1,5 p.m. Through tourist tickets, London to
Killarney, available for return within six calendar months,
cost : first class and saloon, 1 1 1 /— ; second class and saloon,
86/3 ; second class and second cabin, 81/9 ; third class and
saloon, 59/6 ; third class and second cabin, 55/-.
The London and North-Western Railway Com-
N °Routf a11 P an y’ s route via North Wall (Dublin) has the
advantage of being somewhat cheaper than the
foregoing, but involves a slightly longer sea voyage. Trains
leave Euston on week-days only at 11 a.m. and 10.15 p.m.,
reaching Holyhead (where they run alongside the fine steamers
belonging to the Company) at 4.30 p.m. and 3.30 a.m. We
give a view of the ss. Cambria, one of the vessels on the
North Wall service. The steamers reach North Wall, Dublin,
at 7-55 p*m. and 7.30 a.m. respectively, and a train on the
North Wall Extension Railway leaves the North Wall station
for Kingsbridge terminus twenty minutes after the arrival
4
GUIDE TO SOUTH-WEST IRELAND
of the morning boat, and joins the io a.m. train to Killarney,
giving time for breakfast at Kingsbridge.* Through tickets,
London to Killarney, by North Wall route, cost : First class
and saloon, 105/-; second class and saloon, 81/9; third
class and saloon, 55/-; third class and deck, 47/6. Return
halves of North Wall tickets are also available via Greenore,
but the fare between Dublin and Dundalk must be paid.
THE L. AND N.-W. RY. EXPRESS STEAMER “ CAMBRIA."
The City of Dublin Steam Packet Company’s
^Dublin to fast and powerful steamers sail twice every
week-day between Liverpool and Dublin in each
direction, the sea passage occupying about eight hours.
Through tickets are also issued by this route, and through
booked passengers and their luggage are conveyed by omni-
bus, free of charge, between the Company’s steamers and
the railway stations in Liverpool.
* The return express boats leave North Wall, on week-days only,
at 11 a.m. and 9.20 p.m. ; and the trains in connection with them
reach London at 8.50 p.m. and 7.30 a.m.
ROUTES AND FARES
5
The British and Irish Steam Packet Company’s
Dublin by Sea vesse ^ s run f rom London (North Quay, Eastern
* Basin, London Docks) on Sundays and Wednes-
days, and from Dublin on Wednesdays and Saturdays,
calling both ways at Portsmouth, Southampton, Plymouth
and Falmouth. Fares from London to Dublin : First cabin,
26/-, return, 40/-; second cabin, 18/-, return, 28/-; deck,
11/-, return, 17/-. Return tickets are available for three
months, and passengers are allowed to break the journey at
intermediate ports. Passengers from London can embark
the evening before sailing day without extra charge, but
must be on board not later than 10 p.m.
Tickets can be obtained at Messrs. T. Cook & Sons for a
very attractive circular tour, enabling the journey to Dublin
to be made by this Company’s vessels, and the return by
means of the City of Dublin Steam Packet Co.’s vessels to
Liverpool, thence to London by Midland Railway. Or the
outward journey can be made by rail, and the return by the
British and Irish Steam Packet Co.’s vessels.
II. — The Journey via Cork.
The facilities for visiting Ireland provided by the
FiS R S o U ssi r are and Great Western Railway have recently been
Route. greatly improved by the construction of new
harbours on both sides of the St. George’s
Channel. The distance from Fishguard Harbour, on the
Pembrokeshire coast, to Rosslare Harbour, in Wexford, is
only 54 nautical miles ; and as the fast turbine steamers
St. Patrick, St. George, and St. David, specially constructed
for this service, have a capacity of 22^ knots an hour, the
passage is accomplished in under three hours. The Harbour
Station at Fishguard is connected with the Great Western
main South Wales line at Clarbeston Road, and London is
thus brought within 5-J hours of the port, Cardiff and New-
port about 2 hours, and Birmingham 6 hours. Express
trains also connect at Rosslare with the principal towns and
holiday resorts in Ireland. Fishguard Harbour is sheltered
by high lands on south, east and west ; and to protect it on
the north a substantial breakwater, 2,000 feet in length, has
been constructed. There is sufficient depth of water to
accommodate vessels of the largest draught at all states of
the tide, and it is claimed that the harbour is more free from
6
GUIDE TO SOUTH-WEST IRELAND
fog than any other port on the coast. The Wyncliffe Hotel
(under the Company’s management) is close to the quays.
Day and night services are run, the former leaving Pad-
dington at 8.45 a.m., the latter at 8.45 p.m., reaching Fish-
guard at 2.15 (a.m. or p.m.), Rosslare at 5.10 (Irish time),
Waterford at 6.30, and Cork at 9.15. Returning, the boats
leave Rosslare at 12.50 p.m. and 11.50 p.m. (Irish time), the
trains in connection reaching Paddington at 10.5 p.m. and
9.5 a.m. respectively.
Many circular tours including the chief holiday resorts of
Ireland are arranged by the Great Western Railway Co.,
details of which can be learnt from the current issues of
the Tourist Programme, obtainable at any Great Western
station.
The City of Cork Steam Packet Company’s
City of Cork vessels from Liverpool, Milford, Bristol, London,
Company. Southampton and Plymouth afford a comfort-
able and enjoyable means of reaching Killarney
via Cork, and give to tourists a welcome opportunity of
seeing the southern Irish coast, Cork Harbour, and the
beautiful scenery of the river Lee. Saloon fares : Liverpool
and Cork, 17/6, return, 25/-; Milford, 15/-, return, 22/6;
Bristol, 15/-, return, 22/6; London, Southampton or Ply-
mouth, 20/-, return, 30/-. Return tickets available for
two months. Sailing list and programme of tours are sent
free by Company on application.
Tourist Tickets are issued via Cork and “ Prince of Wales
Route ” to Killarney, returning via Mallow, at following
fares : From Liverpool, Plymouth, or Southampton, saloon
and first class, 55/-; saloon and second class, 50/-. From
London, saloon and first class, 60/- ; saloon and second
class, 55/-. From Bristol, saloon and first class, 54/-;
saloon and second class, 49/6. From Milford, saloon and
first class, 50/- ; saloon and second class, 47/-.
An enjoyable method of reaching Killarney from
Clyde Scotland is by the steamers of the Clyde Shipping
Company. Company. Every Tuesday and Saturday after-
noon a powerful, well-appointed vessel, electri-
cally lighted throughout, leaves Glasgow for Cork, and the
passage of 352 nautical miles from the Clyde to the Lee is
full of interest. The steamer skirts the east coast of Ireland,
and if the weather is favourable the land from Hill of Howth
ROUTES AND FARES
7
(Dublin Bay) to Wexford Harbour and Tuskar lighthouse
affords a panorama of wonderful variety, this portion of the
journey being performed in daylight. After passing Tuskar
the land recedes from view, the steamer making a straight
course across to Roches Point, at the entrance to Cork
Harbour. For further particulars, fares, etc., apply to Clyde
Shipping Company, Limited, Glasgow.
Cork to Killarney.
There are three routes from Cork to Killarney,
the first of which, viz., the direct railway route,
by Great Southern and Western Railway via
Mallow, is described in the reverse direction
This route is so-called by reason of its having
been followed by His Majesty, when Prince of
Wales, in 1858. The tourist proceeds to the
Albert Quay station of the Cork, Bandon and
South Coast Railway, and thence travels to the western
terminus of the line at Bantry. Here he has a choice of
two modes of making the next stage of the journey : (a)
By the four-horse coach which awaits the arrival of the train
and proceeds along the head of Bantry Bay to Glengariff,
a beautiful glen on the northern shore, where a halt is called
for the night ; or (b) Glengariff may be reached by the new
steamer, Lady Elsie, which runs in connection with the trains
and coaches, and provides a welcome opportunity of survey-
ing this lovely bay. The tickets are available by either
coach or steamer. Resuming the journey from Glengariff
next morning, the tourist is carried into Kerry near Ken-
mare, from which town travellers have a choice of two routes
to Killarney. They may proceed by the branch of the
Great Southern and Western Railway which joins the main
line at Headford, the station next to that at Killarney ; or
they may retain their seats on the coach, and drive through
the mountains of Kerry. The ticket is available by both
routes. The Prince of Wales route is, as befits its importance,
more fully described on pp. 149 -173.
Circular tours by the Prince of Wales Route to Killarney
and back are arranged in connection with the Great Southern
and Western ; Great Northern (Ireland) ; Midland Great
Western ; Waterford, Limerick and Western ; London and
North-Western ; Great Western ; Lancashire and Yorkshire ;
Direct Rail-
way Route
G.S. and
Western.
on p. 15.
Prince of
Wales
Route.
8
GUIDE TO SOUTH-WEST IRELAND
Great Central ; London, Brighton and South Coast ; Mid-
land ; Cheshire lines ; and London and South-Western Rail-
way ; the City of Cork Steam Packet Company’s ports ; and
the Clyde Shipping Company’s ports.
The third route from Cork to Killarney is by
Mac room ra ^ ^ rom Cap well station to Macroom, where
Route. well appointed coaches run via the Lakes of
Inchigeela, Gougane Barra, and the Pass of
Keimaneigh, joining the Prince of Wales route at Glengariff.
This route is fully described on pp. 174- 179. Through
tickets are issued to Killarney. Tickets for circular tour,
including route as above to Killarney and return by rail
(Great Southern and Western) to Cork are also issued.
BRITISH AND IRISH STEAM PACKET CO.’S STEAMER.
9
THE QUAYS AND ST. PATRICK’S BRIDGE, CORK.
DUBLIN TO KILLARNEY AND CORK
By the Great Southern and Western Railway.
T HE point of departure from Dublin to the South of
Ireland is the Kingsbridge terminus of the Great
Southern and Western Railway Company, at the western
end of the city. Leaving Kingsbridge Station, we skirt the
famous Phoenix Park, and pass in succession Clondalkin,
where may be seen one of the most perfect of the many round
towers in Ireland ; Lucan, noted for its mineral spring and
its strawberry beds ; and Hazlehatch. The latter affords
access to the town of Celbridge, near which is the abbey of the
same name, a favourite resort of Dean Swift, and the home
of Esther Vanhomrigh, the original of the Vanessa in his
poem of “ Cadenus and Vanessa.”
Our onward journey is through pretty country, At
Sallins, eighteen miles from Dublin, we cross the Grand Canal,
which connects the Liffey and the Shannon and so forms a
waterway from the east to the west of Ireland. Then we see
the Hill of Allen, rising to a height of three hundred feet from
the Bog of Allen. Newbridge is the station for the Curragh
of Kildare, a vast common belonging to the Crown. A per-
manent camp of instruction was formed here in 1853.
The Curragh, too, is the Epsom of the Emerald Isle, and
is four times a year the scene of races which occupy the
highest place in the estimation of Irish sportsmen.
The town of Kildare is half concealed from the railway by
a ridge, on the summit of which rises a round tower, 132 feet
high. The ancient Cathedral has recently been restored at
a cost of ;£ 12,000.
A branch line runs off to the west from Portarlington
( refreshment room at station), chiefly through the famous Bog
of Allen, to Tullamore and Athlone, where it connects with
the Midland Great Western Railway.
Leaving the junction, a run of about nine miles along a
valley bounded by the Rocky Hills and the Slieve Bloom
10
u
s
O’CONNELL BRIDGE AND SACKVILLE STREET, DUBLIN.
12 DUBLIN TO KILLARNEY AND CORK
range of mountains, brings us to Maryborough, standing on
a small tributary of the Barrow. Its chief attractions are a
bastion of the old Castle, erected when the town was built to
overawe the natives of the then newly conquered neighbour-
hood ; and the ruins of Dunamase Castle, at one time in the
possession of Strongbow. It crowned the summit of a
singularly-shaped rock, known as Dun Mall or Dunamase.
At Maryborough the branch to Kilkenny and Waterford
leaves the main line ; and Ballybrophy station (vef. room) is
the junction of the Parsonstown and Nenagh branches, both
of which open up the beautiful scenery of the Shannon. Then
we enter the county of Tipperary and the province of Mun-
ster. At Templemore we find traces of the Knights Tem-
plars who founded the town and have left an interesting relic
of one of their preceptories, now forming the entrance to the
grounds of the Abbey. The view from the carriage window
westward at this spot is interesting, as in the background are
the famous Devil’s-Bit Mountains. This range obtained its
name from a legend that the Devil, being benighted and
hungry on the summits, bit a piece out of one, but finding it
too hard and tough to eat dropped it in disgust. The tourist
will plainly observe a gap in part of the range, said to have
been the Satanic mouthful. The “ bit,” we are told, formed
the Rock of Cashel, views of which we get after passing
Thurles, the seat of the Archbishop of Cashel and the site of
the once great Cistercian foundation known as Holy Cross
Abbey, from its having been built (1168-9) to hold a relic of
the true cross. It was here, in 1850, that the famous synod
assembled, which, after condemning the Queen’s Colleges as
“ godless,” recommended the foundation of a Roman Catholic
University for Ireland, a course adopted by Parliament in
1879. The Roman Catholic Cathedral is one of the finest
structures in Ireland.
From the next station, Goold’s Cross, a new light railway,
with steam motor coaches, runs to —
Cashel,
five and three-quarter miles to the south. Passengers can
travel direct from Dublin to “ Cashel of the Kings ” without
change of carriage. Few places in Ireland are of greater
interest historically than this ancient but now dilapidated
episcopal city. The ruins of the old Cathedral on the summit
13
M DUBLIN TO KILL ABNEY AND CORK
of the Rock are among the finest in the country. The edifice
was benevolently burnt in 1495 by the Earl of Kildare,
“ because he thought the archbishop was within ! ” This
. candid explanation, curiously enough, gained for him the
appointment of lord-deputy of Ireland. Besides the Cathe-
dral, there are on the rock Cormac’s Chapel, built in 1127,
and the palace of the kings of Munster, with its famous round
tower, 90 feet high. The Grey, or Hore, Abbey, founded by
David MacCawell, Archbishop of Cashel in 1278, is a pictur-
esque ruin about a quarter of a mile from — but in full view of
— the Rock.
Passing Dundrum, we reach Limerick Junction (ref. room),
where the Waterford, Limerick and Western Railway crosses
the Great Southern and Western line. Leaving the station,
we have a good view leftward of the Galtee Mountains, which
embrace some of the most lofty in the south of Ireland, the
long hill of Slieve-na-Muck extending east and west in front
of us.
Kilmalloek is noted for its numerous ruins — old castles,
churches and spacious mansions, which attest its former
magnificence, and have given it the name of the Baalbec of
Ireland.
At Charleville, the direct line from Cork to Limerick leaves
the main line of the system.
Leaving the junction, the main line turns due south, and
next passes Butte vant, a garrison town of some importance.
Its chief interest lies in its connection with Spenser, who
resided in the neighbourhood. The ruins of Kilcolman
Castle, where the poet acted as secretary to Lord Grey of
Wilton, lord deputy of Ireland, are some four or five miles
from Buttevant. It was here that the first three books of
the Faerie Queen were written.
Leaving Buttevant and continuing our southward course,
we soon reach Mallow, a noted town and an important rail-
way junction (ref. room), on the banks of the Cork Blackwater.
Passengers for Killarney should ascertain whether it is
necessary to change here. At one time known as the Bath
of Ireland, Mallow was a popular resort of invalids and others
who came to drink the waters of its spa and to admire the
scenery ; while the excellent fishing in the river and the con-
venience of railway transit still render it a favourite centre
for anglers. The mineral waters of Mallow are very similar
to those of Clifton.
MALLOW TO KILLARNEY AND CORK 15
Mallow to Killarney.
The direct line to Killarney runs due west from Mallow,
following the course of the Blackwater. There are five
intermediate stations, but we only need notice those of
Rathmore and Headford, the latter because it is the junction
of the Kenmare branch ( see p. 148) ; the former to recall the
bog-slide which took place near Quarry Lodge, to the north
of the station, at Christmas, 1896, when Bogach-na-Mine,
“ the bog of the meal,” some two hundred acres in extent,
rolled bodily in a southerly direction, sweeping away houses
and suffocating some of their occupants.
Mallow to Cork.
If the tourist intends, instead of proceeding direct to
Killarney, to travel via the “ Prince of Wales,” or via the
Macroom Route, he continues along the main line to Cork.
The country is of a pretty, pastoral character, with an im-
posing background of mountains, but calls for no remark
until, after passing the stations at Mourne Abbey and Rath-
duff, Blarney is reached. The famous Castle, with its still
more famous stone, lies about a mile and a half to the west,
in an extensive hollow, amid the “ Groves of Blarney.” An-
other three or four miles and we plunge into a long tunnel,
emerging in the north-eastern part of Cork (ref. room at
station).
\_uundee.
WARD, LOCK, & CO., LTD., Warwick House, Salisbury Square, LONDON.
CORK.
T HE possibilities of Cork as a tourist centre seem hardly
yet to be realised. The city contains some noble
buildings, and to the student of race and manners is full of
interest. But to tourists generally the slums immediately off
the main streets and the general appearance of poverty are
apt to act as deterrents. A stay of a day or two is by most
people considered sufficient. An injustice is thus done to
some of the most beautiful scenery in the south of Ireland.
The surroundings of Cork are beyond all question lovely,
though there may be more than one opinion as to the city
itself. Within easy reach are the loughs and creeks and
pretty islands of the Harbour ; the lower reaches of the Rhine-
like Blackwater ; and all the puzzling, indented coast-line
from Youghal to Mizen Head. Inland there are Blarney and
Macroom, the pretty lakes of Inchigeela, and the Khyber-
like Pass of Keimaneigh, to say nothing of numberless beauty
spots and view points known to few but natives, and rarely
visited even by them. We are not exaggerating in saying
.that a week or fortnight can very well be spent in Cork, with
a trip to a fresh place of interest every day. The hotel
accommodation is good, though the economically-minded
tourist is likely to deplore the absence of reliable second-rate
establishments. In dry weather the city is somewhat dusty,
in wet weather it is undeniably muddy, but the streets are
on the whole well kept and clean, and the cheap cars and
convenient service of trams make locomotion an easy matter.
The streets are lighted by electricity.
Before proceeding to a detailed description of the city, it
may be well to insert a few items of
General Information.
Hotels and their Tariffs. — See Introduction.
Railway Stations. — -(Five ; see plan ). — Great Southern and Western (entrance
from Lower Glanmire Road), for Dublin, Queenstown, Youghal, Killarney
via Mallow, etc. ; Albert Quay , for Bandon, Ban try, etc., the “ Prince of
Wales Route” to Killarney; Albert Street, for Monkstown, Queenstown,
Crosshaven, etc. ; Capwell, for Macroom, etc., the “ Tourist Route ” to
Killarney (c) 17
CORK
Glengariff and Killarney ; Western Road , on a little island adjoining
Western Road, near the spot where the two branches of the Lee separate,
light railway to Coachford, Blarney, etc,
Cars. — There are always plenty of these waiting outside the various stations
in St. Patrick’s Street, and at other stands. Hiring may be by “ set down ”
or by time. For the former a somewhat elaborate table has been drawn up,
but generally speaking the fare from any stand to any place within the
borough is 6d., so that i/-, or 1/6 for two persons, is ample for a drive from
either of the stations to the central hotels. If by time, the hirer must state
so bsforehand: the fare within the borough is 1/6 the first hour, every
subsequent half-hour, gd. We recommend the arrangement by time for
ordinary sightseeing. Double fares between io.o p.m. and 9.0 a.m. In
wet weather covered vehicles can be had. To the English visitor accus-
tomed to London extortions, the cheapness of car fares in Irish cities is
refreshing.
Trams. — A very complete system of electric trams connects the various railway
stations at a uniform fare of one penny. The system extends to Douglas
(2 miles) ; Ballintemple (ij miles), both south of the city, to Blackrock in
the east, and to Sunday’s Well westward. All the cars pass the Father
Mathew Statue in Patrick Street.
Ferries. — From near the Great Southern and Western Station there is a ferry
across to the south side of the Lee. This is useful in providing easy access
to the Marina, a tree-lined promenade overlooking the river, considered by
many the most pleasant feature of Cork. Another ferry likely to be useful
to the visitor is that at the west end of the city, from the Mardyke to Sun-
day’s Well.
Post Office, a stone-fronted building in George’s Street, a little off St. Patrick’s
Street. English mails are delivered at 7.0 and 11.20 a.m. and 3.15 p.m.
and despatched at 3.15 and 9.51 p.m.
Telegraph Office at the General Post Office , is open night and day ; and there
are branch offices in the Butter Market, Great George's Street , Sunday's
Well, and York Stree , Blackpool, all of which are open from 9.0 a.m. till
7.0 p.m. on week-days only. The telegraph office of the Great Southern
and Western Railway Station is open all day on week-days, and from 9.0
a.m. till 2.0 p.m. on Sundays.
Banks. — Bank of Ireland, Munster and Leinster, National, Hibernian, and Pro-
vincial Bank of Ireland, all in South Mall ; Ulster Bank, 88, St. Patrick’s
Street ; Provincial, 69, St. Patrick’s Street.
Opera House, Emmet’s Place, overlooking the Lee, a few hundred yards from
south end of St. Patrick’s Bridge.
River Trips. — The means of enjoyment most favoured during fine weather by
both visitors and residents is to proceed by steamer down Cork Harbour to
Queenstown, Aghada, or Crosshaven. Ordinary fares to Crosshaven :
1st return, 2/2 ; 3rd, 1/6. Cheap excursions on Tuesdays, Thursdays and
Sundays to Crosshaven : 1st return, 1/6 ; 3rd, 1/-. Cheap fares are also
charged every evening after five.
Populatisn (1901). — 75,078.
Places of Worship, with the hours of service on Sundays : —
CHURCH OF IRELAND.
St. Fin Barre's Cathedral, Bishop
Street — 8.0, 11.30, 3.30, and 7.0.
Holy Trinity, or Christ Church, South
Main Street — 11.30 and 7.0.
St. Ann's, Church Street, Shandon —
11.30 and 7.0.
St. Luke's, Summer Hill — 11.30 and
7.0.
St. Paul's, Paul Street- — 11.30 and 7.0.
St. Mary's, Shanakiel Road, Sunday’s
Well — 11.30 and 7.0.
St. Nicholas', Cove Street — 11.30 and
7.0.
St. Peter's, North Main Street — 11.30
and 7.0.
Cork Episcopal Free Church {Asylum
for Distressed Widows of Clergymen),
Langford Row — 11.30 and 7.0.
ROM A N CA T HOI AC.
St. Mary's Cathedral, Cathedral Street
— Mass at 6.0, 7.0, 8.0, 9.0, 10. o,
10.30, 1 1. 15, and 12.0 ; vespers and
sermon at 7.0.
SS. Peter and Paul's, Patrick Street —
Mass at 7.0, 8.0, 9.0, 10. o, 11.15, and
12.0 ; vespers and sermon at 7.0.
CORK
19
St. Patrick's, Lower Glanmire Road —
Mass at 7.0, 8.0, 9.0, io.o (military),
1 1. 15, and 12.0; vespers and ser-
mon at 7.0.
St. Joseph's, Mayfield — Mass at 8.30,
10.30, and 11.30; evening devo-
tions at 7.0.
St. Fin Barre's, Dunbar Street — Mass
at 7.0, 8.0, 9.0, 10.0, 11. 15, and 12.0 ;
vespers and sermon at 7.0.
St. Augustine's Priory (Augustinians)i
Great George’s Street — Mass at 7.30
8-30, 9.30, 10.30, 11. 15, and 12.0;
rosary, sermon, and benediction at
7.0.
St. Mary's (Dominicans), Pope’s Quay
— Mass at 7.0, 8.0, 9.30, 10.30, 11.15
and 12.0 ; complin and sermon at
7-30.
St. Francis's (Friar’s Minor), Liberty
vv. Lawrence J [Dublin.
ST. FIN BARRE’S CATHEDRAL.
St. Fin Barre's, West ( Church of the
Immaculate Conception), Lough
Road — Mass at 7.0 (during the
summer months only), 8.0, 10.0,
11.0, and 12.0 ; devotions at 7.0,
Franciscan Capuchin Monastery and
College of St. Joseph, Rochestown —
Mass at 8.0 and 11.0 a.m.
Street — Mass at 7.0, 8.0, 9.0, 10.15,
1 1. 15, and 12.0 ; vespers and sermon
at 7.0.
Holy Trinity (Friars Minor Capu-
chins), Charlotte Quay — Mass at
7.0, 8.0, 9.0, 10.0, 11. o, and 12.0 ;
complin and sermon at 7.0.
20
CORK
St. V incent’s (Congregation of the Chapel of Convent of St. Marie's of the
Mission), Sunday’s Well — Mass at Isle, Fitton Street — Mass at 7.10 ;
7.0, 8.0, 9.0, 10.0, n.o, and 12.0; benediction at 12.0.
rosary and sermon at 7.0.
OTHER DENOMINATIONS.
Baptist , King Street — 11.30 and 7.0.
Congregational , George’s Street — 12.0
and 7.0.
Presbyterian. — Trinity Church, Sum-
mer Hill — 12.0 and 7.0. Scots’
Church, Queen Street — 12.0 and 7.0.
Garrison Church — 9.0 a.m. (mili-
tary).
Methodist. — Patrick Street Chapel —
1 1 .30 and 7 .0. Barrackton Chapel —
11.30 and 7.0.
Society of Friends, Grattan Street —
11.0 and 7.0.
Brethren, Queen Street Hall— 12.0
and 7.0.
Cork.
Spenser’s “ beautiful citie of Cork,” the third in importance
and population in Ireland, requires to be seen from a point,
such as the high ground north of the city, which includes in
the survey —
“ The pleasant Lee that like an island fayre
Encloseth Cork in his divided flood.”
It will then be seen that the main and older part of the
city stands on an island, of which the Custom House forms
the eastern tip, the North and South Channels uniting at
that point and expanding, after a short, straight course
beneath the wooded heights of Tivoli, into the noble sheet
of Cork Harbour. The island, strictly speaking, is a cluster
of islands, originally separated by channels, and arched over
in comparatively modern times. The name is a corruption
of Cor each, “ a marsh,” and there can be no doubt as to its
original appropriateness. The town has, however, long since
overflowed the water, if the Irishism may be allowed, and
now occupies not only the island but the north and south
banks, and the rising ground on either side. The fact that
the river forks adds considerably to the convenience of Cork
as a port, as the quayage is thereby nearly doubled.
Vessels of considerable burthen can pass as far up the
North Channel as St. Patrick’s Bridge, and to the Parliament
Bridge by the South Channel, the Parnell Bridge being so
constructed that it can be swung round to allow the passage
of vessels. The shipping trade of Cork is extensive, and
includes cattle, pigs, butter (who has not heard of Cork
butter ?), and all sorts of agricultural produce, tweed and
other kinds of woollen goods, flax, hemp, etc. Amongst the
steamers making Cork a regular port of call, mention may
be made of those of the City of Cork Steam Packet Company
(Penrose Quay), and the Clyde Shipping Company (St.
st. Patrick’s bridge.
22
CORK
Patrick’s Quay). The scene by the quays as the vessels
arrive and depart is always animated and interesting.
Histcry of Cork.
As with most places of old-world fame, the foundation of
the city of Cork has been the subject of dispute, some authori-
ties ascribing it to St. Fin Barre, in the seventh century, and
others to the Danes, 200 years later. Probably both are
right. The saint, whose name is still preserved by the stately
Protestant Cathedral and a Roman Catholic Chapel, with
that appreciation of a pleasant place for which the “ holy
friars ” of all ages have been noted, erected a church and a
residence near the site of the present city. The good man
enjoyed a great reputation for sanctity, and attracted dis-
ciples from all quarters. A town gradually sprang up round
the settlement, and it was hoped that its sacred character
would afford immunity from molestation. But, after a cen-
tury or two of quiet, during which the foundation became
famous throughout Europe for the learning of its scholars,
the Danes landed and plundered the religious establishment
and the well-to-do town which stood in its neighbourhood
as well. Right coming on, the invaders are said to have
repaired to the island in the centre of the stream, the advan-
tages of which, from a defensive point of view, they saw at
a glance. Appreciating their quarters, the Danes decided to
remain, and another town sprang up, which they strongly
fortified; making it a centre from which to pillage the sur-
rounding country. In course of time the Danish colony
became absorbed in the neighbouring race, but the effects
of the fusion remain, it is said, to this day in the love of the
men for the sea and a roving life. This is all we know of
Cork for centuries ; though tradition has not been idle. The
next thing certain is the fact of the Anglo-Norman invasion
under Strongbow, when MacCarthy, Prince of Desmond, was
in possession of the city and the neighbourhood. He was
the first Irish chief to acknowledge the sovereignty of
Henry II, and his Majesty rewarded him for this act of
grace by sending an army to occupy his capital and bestow-
ing on two of his own knights, Robert FitzStephen and
Mico de Cogan, the greater portion of his new vassal’s terri-
tory. But though Henry retained Cork in his own hands,
the inhabitants of the island city ceem to have enjoyed an
almost total independence, making their own laws, and,
CORK
2
what was far worse, their own money. The English Parlia-
ment went the length of calling the Cork coinage “ utterly
damned,” an outbreak of temper which was perhaps excu-
sable, but not dignified. The Cork people of those days
seem to have possessed a genius for aggravation, for, while
declining to send representatives to Parliament, they turned
deaf ears to the solicitations of the tax gatherer on the
ground that they had had no share in voting the taxes !
When Perkin Warbeck came in 1492, the citizens embraced
his cause with ardour, and the mayor, Walters, was rash
enough to take a leading part in the expedition, losing his
head in the unhappy sequel. What was of more importance,
Cork lost its charter ; and, being still “ suspect,” was in-
vested in 1498 by the Earl of Kildare with a strong force,
when every individual inhabitant was compelled to swear
fealty to Henry VII. When it was intended to proclaim
James I, the mayor took upon himself to ask the Lords
Commissioners what were the king’s intentions in the matter
of freedom of conscience, and failing to obtain a satisfactory
answer, clapt “ my lords ” into Shandon Castle, pending
further information. When it was found that James was
not their man, the citizens declined to permit the proclama-
tion, and it required the Lord Deputy himself and a large
army to bring them to reason.
In 1600, Camden describes the city as “of an oval figure,
surrounded by walls, environed and intersected by the river,
which is passable only by bridges, and consists of one straight
street, continued by a bridge ; it is, however, a little trading
town of great resort, but so beset by rebellious neighbours
as to require a constant watch, as if continually besieged.”
At the outbreak of the war between Charles I and the
Parliament, Cork declared for the royal cause ; but on the
approach of Cromwell in 1649, the citizens, with the atro-
cities of Drogheda fresh in their memories, surrendered at
discretion.
When, in due course, Charles II got his own again, he was
proclaimed in Cork eleven days before that ceremony was per-
formed in London. On the deposition of James II the city
once more suffered for its loyalty to the Stuarts. Churchill
appeared before its walls, at the head of an Orange army,
and took it after a five days’ siege, during which the city
suffered severely. Kinsale, it may be noted, was captured a few
days later; and this gave rise to the famous Jacobite song : —
z\
THE LEE NEAR SHANDON,
CORK
25
“ There are no fortresses that we can call our own,
But Limerick stout, Galway, and brave Athlone,
Sing, Oh-oh, hone.”
The walls were soon afterwards destroyed, and we hear
little Hlore of Cork as a military centre, though it maintained
its reputation as “ Rebel Cork ” until well into the nineteenth
century. Mr. Parnell, it will be remembered, was member
for Cork at the time of his death, and the city very properly
showed its respect for his memory by calling the former
Anglesea Bridge by his name. In 1902 was held the Cork
International Exhibition, which attracted large numbers of
visitors from all parts.
Literary Associations.
The literary associations of Cork are of considerable in-
terest. One of its most notable sons was Francis Sylvester
Mahony, better known as “ Father Prout.” Born at Cork
in 1804, and educated for the priesthood, he drifted into
journalism, and spent the greater part of his life in London,
being associated with the Daily News at the time of Charles
Dickens’s editorship, and writing the “ Inauguration Ode ”
for Thackeray’s Cornhill Magazine. He died in Paris in 1866,
being then correspondent of the Globe. Perhaps the best
remembered of Father Prout’s works is the fine lyric on —
The Bells of Shandon.
“ With deep affection and recollection
I often think of the Shandon bells.
Whose sounds so wild would, in days of childhood,
Fling round my cradle their magic spells —
On this I ponder, where’er I wander,
And thus grow fonder, sweet Cork, of thee ;
With thy bells of Shandon,
That sound so grand on
The pleasant waters of the river Lee.
I have heard bells chiming full many a clime in,
Tolling sublime in cathedral shrine ;
While at a glib rate brass tongues would vibrate,
But all their music spoke nought to thine ;
For memory dwelling on each proud swelling
Of thy belfry knelling its bold notes free,
Made the bells of Shandon
Sound far more grand on
The pleasant waters of the river Lee,
26
CORK
I have heard bells tolling ‘ Old Adrian’s mole ’ in.
Their thunders rolling from the Vatican,
With cymbals glorious, swinging uproarious
In the gorgeous turrets of Notre Dame ;
But thy sounds were sweeter than the dome of Peter
Flings o’er the Tiber, pealing solemnly,
O ! the bells of Shandon,
Sound far more grand on
The pleasant waters of the river Lee.
There’s a bell in Moscow, while on towers and Kiosko,
In St. Sophia the Turkman gets.
And loud in air, calls men to prayer.
From the tapering summit of tall minarets ;
Such empty phantom I freely grant them.
But there’s an anthem more dear to me :
It’s the bells of Shandon,
That sound so grand on
The pleasant waters of the river Lee.”
Another journalist of distinction in his day was Dr. Maginn,
who was born at Cork in 1793. He was primarily responsible
for the establishment of Fraser's Magazine, at one time a
journal of great repute and circulation, but which would
probably have been forgotten by now but for Thackeray’s
connection with it. Maginn also contributed to Blackwood,
but his intemperate habits prevented the success his extra-
ordinary talents would otherwise have commanded. The
text to the famous Gallery of Literary Characters was contri-
buted by Maginn, and the illustrations were drawn by Mac-
lise, also a native of Cork. Maclise’s mother is said to have
been pew-opener for twenty-two years in the then Presby-
terian Church. The young artist first attracted notice by a
“ snap-shot ” sketch of Sir Walter Scott, as the great novelist
bent over a bookstall while on a visit to Cork. Barry, the
painter, was born at Passage, near Cork, and J. Hogan, the
sculptor, some of whose best work is to be seen in St. Joseph’s
Cemetery, was a native of Cork itself.
William Black’s novel, Shandon Bells, deals largely with
Cork and Glengariff, and may be recommended to the holiday-
maker as light reading for leisure moments. J. A. Froude’s
only novel, The Two Chiefs of Dunboy, is interesting for the
same reason.
Local Government.
The corporation of Cork consists of a mayor, sheriff, four-
teen aldermen and forty-two councillors. At first, Cork was
CORK
27
a borough by prescription ; its oldest charter was granted
by Prince John, who acted, until the memorable “ pulling
of the beards ” incident, as viceroy of Ireland during the
reign of his father, Henry II. The city returns two members
to Parliament.
Streets, Quays and Bridges.
The streets are spacious, but of irregular formation — a state
of things attributable to their having been originally erected
on the banks of the streams which separated the islands (now
united), the opposite sides of which were connected by bridges.
As Macaulay puts it : “ The city extended over about one-
tenth part of the space which it now covers, and was inter-
sected by muddy streams, which have long been concealed
by arches and buildings. A desolate marsh, in which the
sportsman who pursued the waterfowl sank deep in water
and mire at every step, covered the area now occupied by
stately buildings, the palaces of great commercial societies.”
As a reference to our plan will show, the central portion of
the city is connected with those parts on the banks of the
Lee by numerous bridges, the chief of which are St. Patrick’s
and the Parnell Bridges. The latter, formerly known as the
Anglesea Bridge, was rebuilt in 1882, and re-named, as we
have said, in honour of the then senior member for the city.
St. Patrick’s Bridge is remarkable as being broader than any
bridge which spans the Thames except Westminster, the new
structure at Vauxhall, and the recently widened London
Bridge ; it is over 60 feet within the parapets. The bridge
dates from 1859, and occupies the site of an older structure
erected in 1798, and destroyed by flood in 1853. These two
bridges are indirectly connected by three of the widest and
best streets in Cork — St. Patrick’s Street, the Grand Parade,
and the South Mall ; and directly by the Merchants’ Quay,
on the south bank of the North River, and Warren’s Place,
which rivals in width and regularity the three streets already
mentioned.
The Northgate Bridge crosses the northern arm of the Lee
considerably to the west of St. Patrick’s Bridge ; it occupies
the site of one of the old fortified bridges and gates of the
city, and with the Southgate Bridge, exactly opposite to it
and spanning the southern branch of the river, formed for
many years the only means of communication with the sur-
rounding country. The bridges are connected by North and
28
CORK
South Main Streets. Bachelor’s Quay, on the south bank of
the stream, connects Northgate Bridge with Grenville Place ;
and at the point where these join, a spot at which the river
makes a sharp turn to the south, the Footbridge affords a
means of communication with the North Mall and the dis-
trict of Sunday’s Well, on the northern bank of the North
River. The latter is also crossed by —
Wellington Bridge, at the western extremity of the city,
close to the spot at which the river bifurcates. This beau-
tiful bridge rests on three arches of hewn limestone, with
solid parapets, and communicates with George IV Bridge,
which spans the South River a mile from the terminus of
the Cork and Muskerry Light Railway.
Clarke’s Bridge and Parliament Bridge also span the South
River. The former, which connects Wandesford Quay with
Hanover Street, was built in 1726, of red clay-slate ; and
the latter, a handsome structure, of one broad arch with
open parapets, built of the hewn limestone so much in favour
in the city, connects the South Mall with Sullivan’s Quay.
The student of bridges can do very well at Cork. Not only
has he within a small area no less than nine examples, but
there is such a pleasing diversity in the styles that he can
hardly fail to be instructed and edified.
This diversity in the matter of bridges is equalled, if not
excelled, by the diversity of the buildings. A most notice-
able peculiarity of Cork is its absolute want of uniformity,
and the striking contrasts in colour of the houses. The stone
of which the houses in the northern suburbs is built is of a
reddish brown — that 011 the south of a cold gray tint. Some
are constructed of red brick, some of brown brick, some are
sheathed in slate, some whitewashed, some reddened, some
yellowed. The most conspicuous steeple in the place, that
of St. Ann’s, Shandon, is actually red two sides and white
the others.
“ Parti-coloured, like the people,
Red and white stands Shandon steeple.”
The Coal Quay, between St. Patrick’s and Northgate
Bridges, is a part of the city likely to interest and amuse
strangers, though the more respectable citizens shun it. The
name is a misnomer, as the place is some distance from the
literal coal quay, and coal is not sold within its precincts ;
but contrariety is reasonable here, for all know “ Paddy from
o
29
POPE’S QUAY AND DOMINICAN CHURCH.
30
CORK
Cork, with his coat buttoned behind.” The quay bears a
close resemblance to a Spanish bazaar, both in the mode of
selling and the variety of articles displayed. Everything
can be had, from a needle to an anchor — from a flimsy cotton
ball to a faded court suit. Chiefly on Saturday evenings,
the place is thronged with the poorer classes, and as the
crowd surges along the volubility and unlimited “ blarney ”
of the vendors affords the reflective tourist both amusement
and instruction. From the giddy height of their counters
the merchants set forth the merits of their wares in phrases
replete with the choicest native wit and graced with the
wildest blossoms of southern rhetoric. And all this confu-
sion, eloquence, and trade is further enlivened and graced
by several ragged “ poets ” singing and selling “ a yard and
a half of ballads for one ha’penny,” and itinerant Paganinis
exhaustively scratching the “ Rakes of Mallow.”
A TOUR OF THE CITY.
The excellent system of electric tramways enables the
tourist quickly to reach any desired part of the city. The
following are the features best worth seeing : —
Churches. Streets.
St. Fin Barre’s, Bishop Street.
SS. Peter and Paul, just off
St. Patrick’s Street.
St. Ann’s, Shandon, near Shan-
don Street.
St. Mary’s R. C. Cathedral, near
Shandon Street.
Public Buildings.
Court House.
Royal Cork Institution, and
Crawford Municipal School of
Art.
Queen’s College.
This list is by no means exhaustive, and is not intended
to be so. But it may help the tourist who has a few hours
only at his disposal, as the round may be compassed in a
morning or afternoon. Time should certainly be allowed
after seeing Cork for the trips down the Lee and to Blarney.
Assuming that the start is made from the south side of
St. Patrick’s Bridge, we first notice, in a commanding posi-
tion in the middle of the roadway —
St. Patrick’s.
Grand Parade.
South Mall.
Warren’s Place.
The Quays.
Promenades and Open
Spaces.
The Marina, south side of Lee.
(Cork “ Park,” near the Marina, is,
as the natives would say, “ not
much.”)
The Mardyke, western end of
town.
31
PARLIAMENT BRIDGE AND FATHER MATHEW MEMORIAL CHURCH.
32 CORK
The Statue of Father Mathew,
a fine work in bronze, by Foley, erected in 1864, and said to
be a remarkably good likeness.
The great Irish Apostle of Temperance was born at Thomastown
House, Tipperary, in 1790, his father being agent to, and a relative
of, Lord Llandaff. The Mathews were originally a Welsh family,
but settled in Ireland in 1637. Mathew did not distinguish him-
self either at school or at Maynooth, except for his reckless hospi-
tality. He is said to have been sent down from Maynooth for
violating the college rules by giving a feast in his room. He was
ordained a priest in his twenty-third year, attaching himself to the
Capuchins. After a short charge at Kilkenny, he came to Cork,
and for twenty-four years led a busy and uneventful life amongst
the poorest classes of the city. His sterling character and un-
bounded generosity made him respected and beloved, but probably
no one would have been more surprised than himself to learn what
a prominent part he was shortly to play. Ireland was at this
time in a condition deplorable beyond description. In Carlyle’s
words : “ A third part of the Irish people had not for thirty weeks
in the year as many third-rate potatoes as would give them food.”
Mathew seems constantly to have urged his people to adopt tem-
perance as a remedy for many of their ills, but his words had little
effect, nor was he himself a total abstainer. At the age of forty-
seven some Quakers begged him to lend his powerful support to a
temperance movement they had recently inaugurated. He hesi-
tated long, then called a meeting of his friends, and saying, “ Here
goes, in the name of God,” signed the total abstinence pledge.
His success as a temperance advocate was immediate and astound-
ing. In less than three months he had enrolled 25,000 teetotalers.
A month or two later the number swelled to 130,000, then to
200,000, and ere long it was calculated that half the population of
Ireland, then much greater than now, had taken the pledge. 150,000
were known to come forward in four days. What is more, for some
years at least, most of the people kept their pledges. The duties
on Irish spirits dropped from £1,434,753 in 1839, to £852,418 in
1844. Not only in Ireland, but in Scotland, England, and the
States, the Father won hosts of adherents. But his success was
comparatively short-lived. The terrible famine of 1845 and sub-
sequent years, and the sufferings it entailed, led many to seek
again the old consolation. Mathew was indefatigable in his efforts
to provide the necessaries of life for his people, begging from friends
and impoverishing himself, but his movement to a great extent
collapsed. In expectation of a legacy of £7,000 he had spent large
sums in providing badges and tokens for his numerous societies,
and when the legacy failed Mathew found himself heavily involved,
and was actually on one occasion arrested for debt. To the credit
of the English Government, he was awarded a pension of £300.
He died, broken in health but still “ pledging,” at Queenstown, on
December 8, 1856. A simple cross marks his grave in St. Joseph’s
Cemetery, a burial-ground which he himself established so that, in
the words of Thackeray, “ Protestants and Catholics might lie
together without clergymen quarrelling over their coffins.”
Killarney (d)
33
ST. PATRICK S STREET.
34
CORK
Mathew’s centenary was enthusiastically celebrated in 1890.
The Mathew Memorial Church overlooks the South Channel, on
Charlotte Quay ( see p. 35).
We are now in —
St. Patrick’s Street,
the “ Regent Street ” of Cork, a thoroughfare lined with
handsome shops and hotels, but sadly lacking in uniformity.
The seeker for souvenirs and suitable presents for the home
folk is not likely to find a better place for shopping in the
south of Ireland. The semicircular shape of the street is
accounted for by the fact that it is built on arches over what
was once a deep and important branch of the river, in which
ships were laden and unladen. In the bend one notices on
the left the Victoria Hotel.
Winthrop Street leads from St. Patrick’s Street to George’s
Street, where stands the Chief Post Office, a handsome stone-
fronted building, recently erected at a cost of £4.0,000. Lower
down are the Imperial Hotel and Commercial Buildings.
Continuing round St. Patrick’s Street to its junction with
the Grand Parade, a short alley on the right conducts to the
Roman Catholic Church of
St. Peter and St. Paul,
a handsome Gothic building designed by Wei by Pugin.
The interior is very richly decorated. For those who have
time to see only one Catholic church we should be inclined
to recommend this. The architectural proportions of the
exterior would be seen to better effect in a wider street.
A few yards further we turn left into the Grand Parade,
the widest street in Cork. It stands on what was once a
large dock, arched over in 1780. Up to that time the western
side was known as Tuckey’s Quay, and the eastern as the
Mall — the latter then a pleasant promenade, shaded with
trees. The two sides were connected by a bridge on which
stood an equestrian metal statue of George II, colloquially
known as “ George-a-cock-horse.” The Grand Parade is
notable for an immense circular fountain which stands in the
middle of the roadway. There is an inscription round it
relating to one Berwick, but we are not aware that any one
has ever been known to make the extensive circuit for the
sake of reading it. The principal meat, fish and vegetable
Markets are on the Parade.
CORK
35
From the Parade, Great George’s Street leads to Western
Road and the terminus of the Light Railway to Blarney
and Coachford. The tourist would do well to proceed in
this direction at least as far as the Court House, the Corin-
thian portico of which, according to Macaulay, “ would do
honour to Palladio.” The columns are 30 feet high, and
rest on a platform 6 \ feet above the level of the street,
approached by a flight of eleven steps. On the apex of the
pediment is a group of figures representing Law and Mercy
supporting Justice. The interior contains two courts and
other apartments. The central hall, with its lofty dome, is
very imposing. The apparent newness of the Court House
is accounted for by the fact that it was completely gutted
by a fire which broke out on Good Friday, 1891.
At the end of the Grand Parade we reach the South Channel.
The premises of the Cork City Club prevent a turning right-
ward, and we therefore turn into the South Mall, another
broad thoroughfare, in which stand most of the banks and
the offices of the principal professional men. On Charlotte
Quay stands the —
Father Mathew Memorial Chapel,
or Church of the Holy Trinity. It is a beautiful limestone
building, and when seen from across the water immediately
arrests the eye by its curious open front and pinnacled tower.
The spire is 200 feet high. The church contains a fine stained-
glass window in memory of O’Connell, the “ Liberator.”
Crossing the South Channel by Parliament Bridge, with
its single arch, we turn westward by Sullivan’s Quay and
French’s Quay to Bishop Street, noticing high up on the
left the dingy wall of Elizabeth Fort. We now reach what
is by far the most noteworthy and imposing building in Cork,
St. Fin Barre’s Cathedral,
the Protestant cathedral of the diocese. It occupies the site
of the church erected by the saint to whom Cork is said to
owe its foundation, and is the third building which has stood
on the spot.
The design has been truly described as “ utterly un-English
in character.” The west front in particular suggests Bayeaux
or Rheims. The late William Burgess, A. R. A., was the archi-
CORK
36
tect, and considering the past connection of France with the
South of Ireland, it was a happy inspiration on his part to
adopt so successfully the French Early Pointed style. The
Cathedral was consecrated, in an unfinished state, by the late
Bishop Gregg, in 1870 ; and it has since been completed,
mainly at the expense of Mr. Wise, the distiller, and Mr.
Crawford, the brewer. The central tower, surmounted by a
plain octagonal spire, 240 feet high ; the two western towers
and spires, of the same design ; the magnificent west front,
with its statuary and beautiful portals ; the semicircular
apse, at the east end ; the large rose windows at the end of
each transept ; the great number of other windows, filled
with stained glass ; and the massive buttresses — these and
every detail, charmingly blended and forming a harmonious
whole, make the Cathedral externally a “ thing of beauty.”
The richly-carved West Front, with its three portals, massive
rose window and stately spire, is the most noteworthy portion
of the exterior. The figures on either side of the middle
portal represent the Wise and Foolish Virgins, with lamps
in their hands, the Bridegroom standing in the centre. In-
ternally, the church is even more imposing. It is 162^ feet
in length, and its width, with the aisles, is 56^. The tran-
septs are 81-^ feet long, from east to west, and 11J feet wide.
The roof of the nave is 68, and the lantern of the central
tower 10 1 feet above the pavement. The bishop’s throne
(of carved oak), erected by the clergy of the diocese as a
memorial of Bishop John Gregg, at a cost of nearly ^1,500,
is 46 feet high. On the three wooden panels enclosing the
seat are carved the heads of twenty eminent prelates who
have filled the see of Cork, beginning with St. Fin Barre.
The upper part is turreted and crocketed, and has appropriate
carved emblems. The mosaic pavement of the semicircular
apse is of remarkable design, by Mr. Burgess, illustrating
Matthew xiii. 47 : “ The kingdom of heaven is like unto a
net, that was cast into the sea, and gathered of every kind.”
This costly work, executed in Paris by Italian artists, was
one of the last gifts of Bishop John Gregg. The lectern,
presented by ladies of the diocese, is most elaborate and
beautiful. The stained-glass windows of the aisles and tran-
septs represent scenes from the Old Testament, beginning at
the west rose-window with the Creation. Round the ambu-
latory are windows representing scenes from the New Testa-
ment, commencing at the north end.
It is thought probable that Spenser, the poet, was married
(June 11, 1594) in the church which formerly stood on the
site. His bride was a Cork lady, but of the county, not the
city. He provokingly asks—
CORK
37
“ Tell me, ye merchant daughters, did ye see
So fayre a creature in your town before ?
Her goodlie eyes, like sapphyres shining bright ;
Her forehead, ivory white,
Her lips like cherries charming men to byte.”
In 1688 the old church was garrisoned by the English, and
the guns of the Irish fort close by did it considerable damage.
In the south transept of the present building can be seen
on a bracket a cannon-ball which was found embedded in
the former steeple.
Facing the west end of the cathedral is the Bishop’s Palace,
a plain modern building, standing in extensive grounds.
About a mile to the south-east is St. Joseph’s Cemetery,
at one time used as botanic gardens. They were purchased
in 1826, as Thackeray has told us, for their present use, by
Father Mathew, who was himself interred therein, and whose
grave, with its simple stone cross, is visited annually by
thousands. The ground contains some beautiful monuments
by Buckley, Foley, and Ambrose, all citizens of whom Cork
is proud. The most remarkable tomb consists of a sarco-
phagus of Portland stone, resting on a base of limestone.
On the sarcophagus is the figure of a mourning angel, in
white marble — one of the masterpieces of Hogan, the well-
known sculptor, who was a native of the city.
Walking or driving westward along Gill Abbey Street and
College Road for about half a mile we reach —
Queen’s College,
occupying the summit of a rock about 40 feet above the
level of the South River, which laves its base. It stands on
the site of the monastery founded by the patron saint of
Cork, first of all called Antro Sancti Fion Barrie (“ the cave
of St. Fin Barre ”), and afterwards known as Gill Abbey,
in memory of Gilla Aeda O’Mugin, one of its most celebrated
abbots. The College, in the Tudor style, is constructed of
a greyish limestone, and consists of a quadrangle, round
which are grouped an examination hall, lecture rooms,
library, museum, cloisters, and residences for the president
and vice-president. The grounds contain a number of tropi-
cal plant houses and an observatory. The College was
established in 1849 as part of a general scheme to meet the
educational wants of Ireland, but as the “ godless ” colleges
have not found favour with the Roman Catholic authorities,
Queen’s College has never attracted a great number of
38 CORK
students. Visitors are generally allowed, on application, to
look over the building.
Our return to the heart of the city can be varied by turn-
ing round by the Gaol, crossing the South Channel, and
entering Western Road, along which the light railway to
Blarney runs. A rustic bandstand will be seen in a field,
and crossing to this we reach —
The Mardyke,
a mile-long promenade running between the two channels of
the river. It is arched overhead by the entwining branches
of the fine elm trees that grow on either side. Thackeray,
in his Irish Sketch Book, thus describes it : —
“ We pass all sorts of delightful verdure, cheerful gardens, and
broad green luscious pastures down to the beautiful river Lee.
On one side, the river shines away towards the city, with its towers
and purple steeples ; on the other, it is broken by little waterfalls
and bounded in by blue hills, an old castle lowering in the distance,
and innumerable parks and villas lying along the pleasant, wooded
banks. How beautiful the scene is, and how rich and how happy ! ”
But the encroachments of the builder have robbed the
Mardyke of much of its charm, and it cannot for a moment
compare with the Marina, at the other end of the city ( see
p. 42). The ground to the north formed the site of the Cork
International Exhibition, 1902-3, and has now been con-
verted into a public park, known as Fitzgerald Park, in
honour of Sir Edward Fitzgerald, Bart., who was Lord Mayor
at the time of the Exhibition.
On the other side of the North River, and reached by
ferry or by the Wellington Bridge, near the end of the Mar-
dyke, is the district of —
Sunday’s Well,
which occupies the southern slope of a long hill stretching
westward in a line with the river and overlooking the city.
The name is supposed to be derived from a spring once
believed to possess miraculous virtues. In this quarter are
the Cork Waterworks and a number of imposing public
buildings. The long structure of coloured brick, with white
stone dressings, that shows up so prominently is the St.
Vincent’s Roman Catholic Church and Retreat. Near it is
the Good Shepherd Convent. The extensive Lunatic Asylum
appears to be a quite desirable place of residence. Another
building much in evidence is the castellated Female Prison.
39
4 o
CORK
Continuing citywards along Sunday’s Well Road and
Blarney Street, we reach Shandon Street, and enter a rather
poor quarter of the city. A turning on the right (Church
Street), ascending the hill, leads to —
St. Ann’s, Shandon,
the bells of which gave rise to Father Prout’s lyric (see p. 25)
and also provided the late Wm. Black with a title for his
well-known novel, Shandon
Bells. We have already
drawn attention to the two
colours of its pepper-box-like
steeple, but otherwise the
building does not call for
comment. It dates from
1722. There are quaint in-
scriptions on the bells, one
of which states that “ Abel
Rudhall, of Glo’ster, made
us all.” The tower clock has
four dials and can be seen
from nearly all parts of the
city. Father Prout was buried
in the family vault near the
foot of the tower.
Just beyond and above
Shandon Church is St. Mary’s
Roman Catholic Cathedral,
W. Lawrence ,]
SHANDON CHURCH.
[Dublin.
CORK
4i
or the North Chapel. It was built in 1808, and boasts
a massive and lofty tower, but architecturally it is not
a success. The interior is in striking contrast to the
plain exterior, and deserves to be seen, though the
tourist may object to the over-elaboration of some of the
details, and the almost gaudy appearance of the whole. A
monument by Turnerelli, near the altar, commemorates Dr.
Moylan, the founder of the cathedral, and in the open space
in front of the main entrance is a bronze statue of Bishop
Delany, D.D., erected in 1890.
By following the squalid Old Chapel Lane up the hill, with
the Fever Hospital on the left hand, one reaches the Old
Youghal Road, which may be described as the “ Northern
Heights ” of Cork, affording an excellent view over the city
and harbour. The Barracks and camp field are up here, and
the tunnel of the Great Southern and Western Railway,
leading to Glanmire station, runs below.
To regain St. Patrick’s Street from the Old Youghal Road
we turn down Audley Place to St. Patrick’s Hill. The latter
is perhaps the steepest street in Cork. How the horses
manage to get up and down is a marvel. Convenient steps
assist the pedestrian.
Having regained St. Patrick’s Bridge, a walk of a quarter
of a mile along the north side of the river would bring us
to the Dominican Church of St. Mary’s, the Ionic portico
of which stands out so clearly in the view from St. Patrick’s
Bridge. The church is deservedly admired for the chaste-
ness of its style and its just proportions.
On the opposite bank of the river, but not quite so far
from St. Patrick’s Bridge, is the Cork Opera House.
The Crawford Municipal Schools of Science and Art. (Visi-
tors are admitted to the museum, class rooms, and lecture theatre
daily, Sundays excepted, from 10. o to 10.0.) This important
institution occupies the site of the old Custom House, which
having been used by the Royal Cork Institution till it ceased
to exist, was granted by the Crown to the Corporation in
1883, f° r the erection of the schools. The new buildings
were the gift of the late Mr. William H. Crawford (hence their
name), and were opened by the then Prince and Princess of
Wales in 1885. In addition to classrooms for painting, lace-
making, modelling, and other subjects, there is a small sculp-
ture and picture gallery, containing a collection of works by
Cork artists, headed, as is only proper, by Maclise. The
42 CORK
museum contains a number of antiquities, coins, fossils,
etc.
The imaginary round thus described has taken in most of
the important features of Cork, but is far from complete.
Cork must have, in proportion to its size and population,
more public buildings, churches, convents, asylums, and
benevolent institutions than any other town in the kingdom.
Fortunately it is neither necessary nor desirable that we
should describe them all.
But so far nothing has been said about the eastern end of
the town and its chief ornament, the Marina. We will, there-
fore, suppose a start to be again made from Father Mathew’s
statue. We turn this time eastward along the Merchants’
Quay, which borders the south side of the Lee. At Warren’s
Place, a broad thoroughfare resembling the Grand Parade
(see p. 34), we turn rightward to the Parnell Bridge, formerly
the Anglesea Bridge, and, crossing it, reach Albert Quay.
Here are the Municipal Buildings, mayor’s office, and so
on. The new Free Library was built by means of a
donation of ^10,000 from Mr. Andrew Carnegie. Close
at hand is Albert Quay Station (the terminus of the
Cork, Bandon, and South Coast Railway, by which
the tourist proceeds, via the Prince of Wales route, to
Killarney). Not many steps westward is the Albert Street
Station, belonging to the Cork, Blackrock, and Passage Rail-
way Company, by whose trains and steamers we can proceed
down the harbour to Crosshaven, etc. Continuing by the
river bank, we have on the right a large open space euphe-
mistically known as Cork Park. It is reclaimed marshland,
but being almost untimbered is not particularly attractive.
The Racecourse adjoins, and a further part of the marshy
tract is occupied by the showyards of the Cork Agricultural
Society. Still continuing by the river we reach —
The Marina,
a delightful tree-lined promenade, commanding exquisite
peeps of the Lee and the pretty villas and gardens on the
opposite bank. Seats and rustic shelters are placed at inter-
vals, and the thirsty may imbibe from a number of not very
inviting wayside fountains. In recent years this promenade
has been greatly improved, and it is certainly the part of
Cork most likely to please visitors. There is a small band-
4.J
ON THE LEE,
44 CORK
stand, and the local clubs have erected boating-houses of
much amenity.
Across the water are the suburbs of Montenotte and Tivoli.
An eastern traveller has observed of the latter : “A few
minarets placed in its hanging gardens would realise the
Bosphorus.” Raleigh lived at Tivoli for a time, and it is
said that trees planted by him still exist. Miss Curran, the
betrothed of poor Robert Emmett, resided at a house known
as Woodhill. Her romantic story inspired Moore’s musical
lyric, “ She is far from the land where her young hero sleeps.”
Further eastward, on the north bank, the pretty Glanmire
stream joins the Lee, beneath a drawbridge of cast iron.
The walk along the Marina and the south bank of the river
may be continued as far as Blackrock Castle (see p. 46) and
the beautiful expanse of Lough Mahon.
There is not much to interest visitors in the southern por-
tion of the city, but some may be inclined to see the Lough
of Cork ( Longh-na-famog ), just off the Bandon Road. It is
a considerable sheet of water, fed by streams from the sur-
rounding hills, and is interesting as the scene of one of the
most remarkable of Crofton Croker’s Fairy Legends.
EXCURSIONS FROM CORK.
A TTENTION has already been drawn to the convenience
of Cork as a centre for excursions, and to the fact that
the visitor is likely to spend more time around the city than in
it. On the whole, the local railway companies, small though
their lines may be, are attentive to the wants of the public,
and in many respects would “ give points ” to larger con-
cerns. But as trains are in some cases few and far between,
the tourist should on no account omit to provide himself with
one of the pocket time-tables published locally. In all cases
where fares and times are mentioned in this work, they should
he verified by reference to current time-tables. For whole-day
excursions it will generally be found that a start has to be
made about 9 a.m., the most important trains leaving at that
somewhat early hour. Excursions at cheap fares are often
run on Sundays, and on Wednesdays and Thursdays. The
tourist with a mind to economy should look out for the
announcements.
I.— CORK HARBOUR, QUEENSTOWN, CROSS-
HAVEN, ETC.
In this, which is by far the most popular trip from Cork,
the visitor is fortunate in having an ample choice of trains
and steamers. There are three routes to Queenstown : —
(1) By rail and steamer. — Cork, Blackrock, and Passage
Railway, from Albert Street terminus to Monkstown, thence
by the Company’s steamers to Queenstown, Aghada, or
Crosshaven and intermediate stopping-places. The railway
has recently been extended from Monkstown to Crosshaven.
(2) By steamer all the way from St. Patrick’s Bridge.
Same management as above. There is only one steamer a
day (none on Sundays), starting from the bridge about 11.50,
but any steamer or train can be taken for the return journey.
45
46
BLA CKROCK — PA SSA GE
(3) By rail all the way. — Great Southern and Western
Railway (Glanmire station) to Queenstown. Frequent
trains. Journey takes about half an hour.
We will assume that Route 1, the most used, is taken.
Visitors who have not walked along the Marina (see p. 42)
and seen the beauties of the river in the narrower part of its
course, may prefer Route 2, as it gives an opportunity of
seeing the whole of the noble sea avenue to Cork. Care
should be taken to ascertain at Monkstown or Queenstown
whether the steamer goes to Aghada or to Crosshaven, as
there are two distinct services.
A start is made from Albert Street station. Owing to the
broad gauge of Irish lines, the carriages are of roomy con-
struction, and instead of the regulation wooden partitions
between the compartments glass is used, an idea which seems
worthy of imitation elsewhere. The first-class carriages are
worth the trifling difference of fare.
We skirt Cork Park and the Racecourse, and stop first at
pretty Blackrock station. Blackrock Castle stands on a bold
promontory commanding the river. It was built by Lord
Deputy Mount joy, in 1604, as part of the defences of Cork ;
and rebuilt by the Cork Harbour Commissioners in 1830.
We shortly cross a viaduct over the Douglas creek, and for
the rest of the journey the railway skirts the water, affording,
especially if the tide be up, some most entrancing views.
Lough Mahon, as the wide expanse of the Lee is here called,
has the appearance of a land-locked lake. It is bordered by
hills and woods and far-stretching pastures, and dotted here
and there with islands. The land to the north, nearly
opposite Blackrock Castle, is not the mainland, but Little
Island. Conspicuous on a small eminence is the Mathew
Tower, a tribute to the memory of the Apostle of Temperance.
Eastward, beyond the island of Fota, with its tower, is the
lovely demesne of Lord Barrymore. Hop Island, close to
Rochestown station, is said to have derived its name from the
fact that the family to whom it belonged taught dancing in
Cork.
Passage West,
where the railway at one time terminated, is a small town
with a number of dockyards at which vessels of one kind
or another are generally under repair. Father Prout’s
description need not be taken seriously : —
MONKSTOWN
47
The town of Passage
And situated
Is both large and spacious,
Mud cabins swarm in
This place so charmin’,
With sailors’ garments
’Tis nate and dacent,
And quite adjacent
To come from Cork
Upon the say.
Hung out to dry ;
And each abode is
Snug and commodious,
With pigs melodious
On a summer’s day.
In their straw-built stye.
There you may slip in
To take a dippin’
Forenent the shippin’
It’s there the turf is,
And lots of murphies,
Dead sprats and herrings
That at anchor ride.
Or in a wherry
Come o’er the ferry
To Carrigaloe,
And oyster shells ;
Nor any lack, O,
Of good tobacco,
Though what is smuggled
On the other side.
By far excels.”
A comparatively narrow channel separates the mainland
from Great Island, on which Queenstown stands. The ledges
of steep sandstone rock on the Passage side are known as the
Giant’s Stairs, and are said to have been constructed by the
giant O’Mahony, a member of the powerful sept of Mahonys,
from whom Lough Mahon takes its name. Glenbrook, where
is the next station, is a growing village much favoured by
Cork people for summer residence. The Royal Victoria Hotel
and Baths will arrest the eye by their curious construction,
suggestive of primitive lake dwellings, though it is only fair
to say that there is nothing primitive about the hotel itself,
which is a very comfortable place of residence. The salt-
water swimming-bath is 200 feet by 30 feet. Special bathers’
tickets are issued from Cork at reduced rates, which include
fare and bath.
half a mile further south, is believed to derive its name from
a colony of Benedictine monks. The place contains the
ruins of an Elizabethan fortified residence, known diversely
as Monkstown Castle and O'Mahony's Castle. Tradition
declares Anstatia Goold, whose lord, one John Archdecken,
was fighting under Philip of Spain (possibly against his lawful
sovereign), feeling “ lonesome like ” during his long absence
from home, conceived the idea of erecting this castle to while
away the time and to surprise him on his return. Being, like
John Gilpin’s spouse, of a frugal mind, she shrewdly stipu-
lated that the workmen should buy all their food from her.
They either lived very extravagantly, or were greatly over-
charged, for the lady’s profits were so considerable that it was
Monkstown,
48 QUEENSTOWN
found when the work was done that the house had only cost
her a groat. Her husband returned in due course, and seems
to have appraised his treasure of a wife at her proper value,
though the chronicler tells us only that they were eventually
interred together in their family vault, in the burial-ground
of the ruined church of Temple-en-Bryn, adjoining the castle.
Monkstown Church, an Early English, ivy-grown structure,
standing on a picturesque elevation, is said to have been the
first Protestant place of worship erected in the neighbourhood
after the Reformation.
At Monkstown the railway until recently ended, but the
extension to Crosshaven is now complete, and the traveller
bound for that place can keep his seat instead of having to
change from train to steamer. Many passengers, however,
if not pressed for time, still prefer to complete the journey by
steamer, via Queenstown, as this affords an opportunity of
seeing the Harbour. On leaving Monkstown, the Queens-
land steamer heads westward round White’s Point for the
channel between Great Island and Haulbowline Island. We
have an excellent opportunity of seeing Haulbowline Island,
and may even, if the tide permits, call at its pier, though an
order must be obtained from the authorities before this and
neighbouring islands can be visited. Haulbowline is a
most important naval dockyard and military station, and
extensive works are still in progress. Rocky Island, to the
south, is principally used for the storage of ammunition.
Spike Island, or Fort Westmoreland, still further south, is the
largest of the group. It was formerly a convict station, and
many of the government works were executed by convict
labour. We see it to better advantage after leaving Queens-
town.
Queenstown.
Hotels and Tariffs. -—See Introduction.
Approaches. — See Routes from Cork (p 45). By Great Southern and Western
Railway from Dublin, about 4I hours.
Railway Station. — Close to landing-stage where tenders deposit passengers
from the liners. The station includes refreshment and waiting rooms.
Pier. There is a refreshment room, with moderate tariff, at the landing-stage
of the Passage Railway Company’s Steamers.
Band Promenades during season on Thursdays, 7 to 10 p.m.
Places of Worship, with hours of service on Sundays : —
Cathedral — Services from 7.30 a.m. Presbyterian — 12 noon.
Church of Ireland — 11.30 a.m. Wesleyan Methodist — 11.30 a.m.
Seen from the water, Queenstown, with its dominating but
towcrJess cathedral, is very attractive. The town is built in
Killarney (e)
49
QUEENSTOWN HARBOUR.
50 QUEENSTOWN
terraces on the hillside, rising tier behind tier, the houses
commanding a fine prospect across the Harbour. The Har-
bour itself, whether seen from the deck of a steamer, or from
the heights above the town, makes a majestic picture. A
modern warship is generally moored as guardship off the
town, but even these vessels look mere buoys on that vast
expanse, while gunboats and torpedo boats are no better than
corks. The entire British navy could find anchorage here,
and there would still be room for an enemy’s fleet if one
cared to come. Far away to the south, right beyond Spike
Island and the rest, one can see the bottle-neck entrance to
the harbour, with Carlisle and Camden Forts on either side,
and the white lighthouse on Roche’s Point at the extreme
end.
Queenstown was formerly known as Cove, its present name
arising from the fact that Queen Victoria landed here on her
visit to Ireland in 1849. Apart from its importance as a
port of call for the American liners, and as a great naval and
military station, Queenstown is rapidly acquiring a reputa-
tion as a health resort, particularly for the winter. Says a
reliable authority : —
“ The climate is remarkably mild and equable, and, at the same
time, fairly dry and tonic, and is especially suitable as a winter and
spring residence for persons with delicate chests, to sufferers from
chronic catarrhal throat affections, and to convalescents from acute
diseases. It is particularly appropriate as a seaside resort to per-
sons requiring a soothiqg and sedative atmosphere. From the
position of Queenstown, winds from the colder points are very
little felt, and it is completely protected from the north, north-east
and north-west winds. The mean temperatures of the season are
exactly similar to those at Torquay, and higher than those of
Bournemouth, Hastings and Ventnor. As a winter health resort
Queenstown possesses all the best natural and climatic advantages.”
The business portion of the town, including the best hotels
and shops, faces the quay. The scene here is generally lively,
what with man-o’ -war’s men, yachtsmen, merchant seamen,
and pleasure-seekers. The Promenade is a narrow asphalted
enclosure, with bandstand and seats. The Band Promenades
(usually on Thursdays, 7.0 to 10.0) are very popular func-
tions. The Swimming Baths, opened in 1898, are a valuable
acquisition to the town. The Royal Cork Yacht Club is
housed in luxurious quarters near the station. The annual
regatta is a notable event, crowds of people coming in not
only from Cork but from the villages for miles around.
51
[Dublin.
52
GREAT ISLAND— CORK HARBOUR
The only notable building in Queenstown is the richly-
decorated Roman Catholic Cathedral — surely one of the most
finely situated in the kingdom. It is dedicated to St. Col-
man, and, though still far from complete, should on no account
be omitted from the programme of the sightseer. The style
is a florid Gothic, the light and spacious interior being as
pleasing to the eye as the exterior. The west front is elabo-
rately carved. Funds are lacking to complete the tower,
but we believe something like ^100,000 have already been
spent.
Great Island is five miles from east to west and two from
south to north. The circuit of the island may be made from
Queenstown in a drive or cycle ride of about two hours. The
views are varied and pleasing, but nothing calls for remark
except the occasional martello towers and the remains of
Belvelly Castle, formerly a seat of the Hodnetts, but now,
like much of the land hereabouts, part of the Barry estate.
Great Island was at one time known as Barrymore Island.
Leaving Queenstown, one service of vessels proceeds in a
south-easterly direction to Aghada, but it will be more con-
venient to regard this as a separate trip (see p. 54), and to
continue the description of the Crosshaven route. We
round the ugly but useful Spit Light, and presently have on
the right the fortifications of Spike Island (p. 48) and on the
left the queer-shaped promontory of Corkbeg, which bids fair
one day to add another island to the already numerous
archipelago in the harbour.
Carlisle Fort frowns above us on the east, and to the west
we have a much indented coast-line, backed by hills and
woods. Nearing Currabinny we sight to the right what is
apparently a wide creek running inland as far as some woods,
a mile or so away. To this creek a pretty story is attached
which Englishmen cannot but love to hear. In the first
place the creek is not a creek at all, but a river, known vari-
ously as the Carrigaline River, or the Owenabwee, “ Amber
Water.” Then, instead of a seeming course of one mile, it
extends inland, after a sharp twist, for something like twenty
miles, further, in fact, than to Kinsale Junction, on the
Bandon line. For the first five miles or so, to the Carrigaline
road, the water is fairly deep, and navigable at high tide.
In the year 1587 Admiral Sir Francis Drake, having singed
the Spaniard’s beard and committed other enormities, found
it convenient to show u clean pair of heels to a powerful
CROSSHA YEN
53
Spanish fleet which was desirous of making his further
acquaintance. With his five little sloops he made for Cork
harbour, and was by the Spaniards clearly seen to enter.
The tactics which served the Americans in 1898, when
Admiral Cervera was in similar plight at Santiago, did not
serve Cervera’s predecessors in the days of Queen Bess.
Instead of waiting quietly until Drake should come out, the
Spaniards went in to look for him. They scoured the har-
bour from east to west, and from north to south, exploring
as they thought every creek, winding and channel, but
Drake was not to be seen. For days the search continued,
and at length the Spaniards, attributing his disappearance to
magic, thought well to disappear also. Upon which out came
"Drake with his merry men from behind those very woods
.Which seem to mark the water's limit ! The secluded spot
has^since been known as Drake’s Pool.
Crosshaven.
Conveyances run in connection with trains and steamers to Church Bay and
Weaver Point on the coast. Fare, threepence each way, or twopence if
through ticket taken at Cork or Queenstown.
Crosshaven is as yet only a small village with a large hotel.
Now that the new railway adds its quota of pleasure-seekers
to those brought by the steamers, the small village is likely
to become a large one, and the large hotel larger still. The
railway from Monkstown to Crosshaven brings one through
lovely country, passing Drake’s Pool and Carrigaline Castle.
Though itself somewhat sheltered, and denied an ocean view,
Crosshaven is within easy distance of Church Bay and
Myrtleville Bay on the coast. What Brighton is to London,
Crosshaven is to Cork, and during the summer the accommo-
dation of the place is sometimes severely taxed. Combined
railway and hotel tickets are issued, and a week-end (Satur-
day to Monday) can be spent at the Crosshaven Hotel for
18/6, including fare from and to Cork. A modern Church
stands close to the village. There are a number of pretty
walks in the locality, the deep-set, tree-shadowed lanes, with
their numerous twists and turns, reminding one of the famous
Jersey lanes.
On the hill above Crosshaven stands the desolate and for-
saken ruin of Templebrady Church, a prominent object both
from sea and harbour.
A short drive or walk brings us to Church Bay, a delightful
CHURCH BAY
54
spot with lofty cliffs and sheltered bathing nooks. The air
is noticeably soft and balmy. In due time hotels and board-
ing houses will spring up on the best parts of the cliff, but at
present the spot is quite unspoilt — even the bathing arrange-
ments are charmingly primitive. A week-end (Saturday to
Monday) can be spent at the Church Bay Hotel for 16/— , in-
cluding first-class fare from and to Cork. Not far from
Church Bay is the powerful Templebrady Fort, recently con-
structed to command the waterway used by the liners passing
to and from America.
The coast can be followed on one side round to Camden
W . Lawrence ,] [ Dublin .
AN IRISH COTTAGE.
Fort, and so back to Crosshaven ; but a far better tramp for
those with time to spare is in the other direction by a rough
cliff path to Myrtleville Bay. Crosshaven can be regained
either by the regular conveyance, or by striking inland to a
bye-road shortly before Myrtleville is reached.
II.— TO AGHADA, ROCHE’S POINT, CLOYNE AND
BALLYCOTTON.
The description of Excursion I. (pp. 45-48) will serve for
this as far as Queenstown. Leaving that favoured town, the
AGHADA
55
steamer proceeds almost due east, giving passengers an
opportunity of seeing parts of the great harbour not touched
by the Crosshaven route. Here is the favourite anchorage
for yachts. Great Island shows up well, and almost due north
of Aghada we get a glimpse of the East Ferry River, the
narrow channel which separates the island from the mainland.
A sail up this channel is a delightful experience, the scenery
on either side being very pleasing.
Aghada.
Conveyances in connection with steamers. — (a) To Whitegate, 6 d. ; Trabolgan
and Roche’s Point, i/-; return tickets, 1/6 from last two places, (b) lo
Cloyne, 6 d., and Ballycotton, i/- ; fares same each way.
Aghada, “long ford” (pronounced A -had' -a, with accent
on second syllable), is little more than a straggling street of
mean-looking houses, picturesque only from the water.
The coach trip (a), to Roche’s Point, etc., affords excellent
views of the harbour, and is breezy and exhilarating. Tra-
bolgan is a seat of Lord Fermoy. Roche’s Point Lighthouse,
familiar to Atlantic voyagers, is the signalling station for
homeward-bound vessels.
The route ( b ), in the other direction, requires rather more
notice. We skirt the harbour as far as Rostellan Castle,
with its beautiful woods and grounds, to which visitors are
freely admitted on Wednesdays. The drive onward to
Cloyne and Ballycotton cannot for a moment be compared
with the drives about Killarney,. but it is pretty, and for
cyclists the roads are distinctly good. Castlemary, a mile or
so from Cloyne, possesses an interesting Druidical cromlech.
At Cloyne (5^miles from Aghada) a halt is made and tickets
collected. The town is remarkable for its famous Round
Tower, which adjoins the Cathedral, and is in good preserva-
tion. It was originally 92 feet high, and, like others of its
class, had a conical roof. Being fitted up with lofts and used
as a belfry, the metal attracted lightning, which rent the roof
and tore away the upper portion of the wall. It has been
repaired, and a battlement, which increases the height to
102 feet, placed round the top. The door is 1 1|- feet from the
ground, and the interior is divided into six storeys. The
tower is cylindrical from top to bottom, and of an uniform
diameter of 9 feet. The walls are 33 inches thick. The
origin and use of these towers, of which there are more than
a hundred in Ireland, and scarcely any elsewhere, is a ques-
tion which has long puzzled antiquaries, but Dr. Petrie is
56
BALLY COTTON
probably right in conjecturing that they were erected as
places of refuge and treasure houses for the monks. They
are always found in proximity to ecclesiastical buildings, and
as they are almost unclimbable, and have but a single en-
trance, their adaptability to the purpose is evident.
Cloyne Cathedral is now used as a Protestant Church, and
the diocese, a very ancient one, is merged in that of Cork.
A former bishop was Berkeley, the famous eighteenth cen-
tury metaphysician. He was buried at Oxford, but a monu-
ment to his memory was placed in the cathedral in 1889.
There are two roads from Cloyne to Ballycotton and the
coast, the more circuitous being known as the Shangarry road.
Ballycotton is seven miles from Cloyne, and long before we
reach it we sight its island lighthouse. Between the road
and the sea is a great stretch of marshland which affords
good shooting.
Ballycotton.
Hotels . — Sea View, Ballycotton, Pier View.
Ballycotton lies right out of the beaten track of the tourist,
and is not known as it deserves to be. Cork people have
discovered it, however, and make good use of their know-
ledge, judging by the villas that are springing up. It is a
pleasant, unsophisticated spot, where a family may rusticate
with great content and ease. The cliffs to the west are wild
and bold, and the sea has scooped out little bays here and
there for the very purpose of providing conveniences for
bathers. At low tide long stretches of seaweed-covered rock
are exposed. Persons who take the cliff paths may be ad-
vised not to go too near the edge. There is an excellent
harbour, with massive piers running round it, though it seems
all too large and expensive for the comparatively few fishing
vessels and yachts that shelter here. The Lighthouse stands
on a tiny island, separated from the town by a narrow channel.
Lighthouses lend themselves to picture-making, and we have
rarely seen one better adapted to the purpose than this,
though the amateur daubs which adorn the hotels hardly do
it justice. To the east can be seen the cliffs that mark the
entrance to Youghal Harbour.
III.— TO BLARNEY CASTLE.
To visit the south of Ireland, and omit to kiss, or attempt
to kiss, the far-famed Blarney stone would be to defy con-
vention, and expose oneself to all sorts of reproaches on
CORK TO BLARNEY
57
returning home. Apart from its nonsensical aspect, however,
the trip has many points of interest. An early morning or
early afternoon train should be taken, so that a half-day only
need be occupied. There are two small hotels at Blarney
village, should light luncheon be required.
The distance from Cork is about nine miles. Fares by
Cork and Mnskerry Light Railway (Western Road) : single,
lod. and yd. ; return, 1/2 and 10 d. Thirty-five minutes’
i Ky'/f'
[Dublin.
W. Lawrence ,]
BLARNEY CASTLE.
journey. The Castle can also be reached by the Great
Southern and Western Railway, but Blarney station on that
line is 1^ miles distant. Fares, 1/— , 10 d., and 5 d. ; return,
1/8, 1/5, and 8d.
It is of course open to any one to walk, drive, or cycle, the
distance by road being about five miles.
We make our way to the Western Road terminus, which
stands on an island at the west end of the town (see plan).
58 BLARNEY
The carriages are roomy and comfortable, and suggest trams
rather than trains.
Leaving the station, we run first along the roadside, having
on our right the Mardyke, and presently the City Waterworks
and the many-gabled Lunatic Asylum. On the left we have
Queen’s College and the Male Gaol. Between Victoria Cross
and Carrigrohane is passed the Model Farm, where training
is given in agriculture, dairy-farming, etc. The institution
has been very successful. The valley of the Lee presents
here and there as we get further from the city some pretty
peeps. This is notably the case as Carrigrohane, above
which, high on the steep rock, is a Castle. We shortly cross
the Lee, and follow its tributary, the Shournagh, a trout
stream of some repute. The valley is now wider, and affords
a more extensive view. Passing Healy Bridge we reach
Junction, from which the main line continues westward to
Coachford, gl miles distant.
The principal stations on the Coachford line are at Cloghroe ,
near to which is Ardrum Castle ; Dripsey, a place of much
picturesqueness, containing the remains of Carrignamuck
Castle, a kind of companion fortress to Blarney, and said to
have been built by the same lord ; and Coachford, a prettily
situated village much favoured by anglers.
Following the Blarney branch line we pass the wayside
station at Tower Bridge, and draw up at St. Ann's, near to
which is the well-known St. Ann’s Hill Hydropathic Estab-
lishment, founded in 1843 by the late Dr. Barter, and entitled
to be considered the precursor of the many establishments of
the kind now in existence. It is picturesquely situated on a
sandy soil, and, though elevated, is sheltered by wooded hills.
These advantages, combined with the mildness and salubrity
of the climate, have made St. Ann’s a favourite health resort.
From St. Ann’s station a branch line, chiefly used for agri-
cultural purposes, runs north-westward to Donoughmore, a
market town some eight miles distant.
The terminus of the branch line at Blarney is close to
the extensive grounds attached to the castle, and it is only
necessary to cross the line to gain admission.
Blarney Castle.
Admission tickets must be purchased at the station. Threepence each to
holders of Cork and Muskerry railway tickets ; other persons sixpence each.
A pleasant footpath leads in three or four minutes over a
BLARNEY
59
rustic bridge to the castle. Expectations based on Milliken’s
lines are not likely to be realised : —
’Tis there’s the daisy,
And the sweet carnation,
The blooming pink,
And the rose so fair ;
The daffodowndilly —
Likewise the lily ;
All flowers that scent
The sweet, fragrant air.
There’s gravel walks there,
For speculation,
And conversation,
In sweet solitude.
’Tis there the lover
May hear the dove, or
The gentle plover,
In the afternoon.”
The attendant guide will first conduct the visitor to the
Caves and the secret passages which run in all directions
through the rock on which the castle stands. These subter-
ranean chambers are very lofty — and occasionally very dirty
— but the irrepressible memento-hunter has chipped off
nearly all the stalactites and stalagmites. The caves were
formerly used as prisons.
Persons who prefer the light of day will at once make their
way to the Keep, a square, well-preserved structure, 120 feet
high, capped by machiolated battlements, which, it will be
noticed do not form part of the wall, but are built out from
it in a sort of staging, with the object of enabling defenders
to drop stones and other trifles on to the heads of assailants.
In addition to the keep, there are extensive remains of other
buildings.
The history of Blarney Castle might be related at great
length, but the doings of MacCarthys and Desmonds in the
brave days of old are not likely greatly to interest the present
generation. Suffice it to say that the structure, the third on
the site, dates from about 1446, and was built by the then
powerful Cormack MacCarthy, surnamed Laidir, “ the strong.”
Of the siege of the castle by Cromwell’s forces under Ireton
we have the following picturesque account in Kipling-like
verse : —
“ It was now the poor boys of the Castle looked over the battle-
ment wall,
And they saw that ruffian, ould Cromwell, a-feeding on powder
and ball,
And the fellow that married his daughter, a chawing grape-shot
in his jaw ;
’Twas bowld I-ray-ton they called him, and he was his brother-
in-law.”
The Blarney Stone is set in the parapet on the western side
of the tower. The fair conductress who sells postcards
and other souvenirs will not fail to point out its situation
6o
BLARNEY
before visitors ascend the well-worn steps to the battlements,
Mr. J. O’Mahony thus pleasantly accounts for the addition
of the very useful and expressive word “ blarney ” to the
English language : —
“ The word ‘ Blarney,’ meaning pleasant ‘ deluderin’ talk,’
is said to have originated at the court of Queen Elizabeth.
McCarthy, the then chieftain over the clan of that name who
resided at Blarney, was repeatedly asked to come in from
* off his keeping,’ as the phrase in the State Papers goes, to
abjure the system of Tanistry by which the clan elected the
chief, and take tenure of his lands direct from the Crown.
He was always promising with fair words and soft speech
to do what was desired, but never could be got to come to
the sticking point. The Queen, it is told, when one of his
speeches was brought to her, said : ‘ This is all Blarney ;
what he says he never means.’ ”
That it is worth while to kiss the stone cannot be doubted —
“ There is a stone there, whoever kisses,
Oh ! he never misses to grow eloquent,
’Tis he may clamber to a lady’s chamber,
Or become a Member of Parliament.
A clever spouter, he’ll sure turn out, or
An ’out-an’-outer’ to be let alone ;
Don’t hope to hinder him, or to bewilder him,
Sure he’s a pilgrim from the Blarney Stone.”
The postcards which are sold showing the old style of
osculatory action, with an unfortunate kisser hanging by the
heels over the parapet while his alarmed companions hold
him for all they are worth, may be taken as picturesque ex-
aggeration. We have the best authority for saying that the
stone inside the parapet will serve the purpose of the would-
be spouter equally well. But to kiss even this is not so easy
as it looks. You must lie on your back on the paving, grasp
the iron bars between the parapet and the wall, while some-
body sits on the lower part of your body to prevent over-
balancing, and by a dexterous twist of the neck you will just
be able, should you so desire, to impart the chaste salute.
It is as well not to look down while so engaged.
An excellent view over the surrounding country is obtained
from the summit of the tower. The modem mansion which
adjoins the castle is the residence of Sir George Colthurst,
the owner of the demesne. The view extends over a rich,
undulating country, intersected by the rivers Martin, Co-
CORK TO YOUGHAL
6 1
mane and Shournagh. To the north-east rise the Boggerah
Mountains ; and to the south, about half a mile from the
castle, lies a pretty lake,
“ Well stored with fishes,
And comely eels in the verdant mud ;
Besides good leeches, and groves of beeches
All ranged in order to guard the flood.”
Blarney Village will not detain the visitor long. It con-
tains a couple of inns, a prettily situated church, and a pros-
perous tweed factory, which visitors may usually inspect on
application.
IV.— YOUGHAL AND THE BLACKWATER.
Youghal (pronounced Yawl), with its memories of Sir
Walter Raleigh, and the lovely Blackwater are so easily
reached from Cork by the Great Southern and Western Rail-
way that a day, or even two, may well be devoted to them.
The sailings of the river steamer from Youghal to Cappoquin are somewhat
uncertain, and should be ascertained from local advertisements before starting.
From Cappoquin return can be made by rail (or better still, if time permits, by
road as far as Fermoy) to Mallow, and thence to Cork, completing a circular
tour. If it is desired to see Mitchelstown and its famous caves, change at
Fermoy. The tour may be summarised thus : Cork to Youghal by rail (27
miles), one hour ; Youghal to Cappoquin by steamer (16 miles), one and three
quarter hours ; Cappoquin to Mallow by rail (36 miles) ; Mallow to Cork by
rail (21 miles).
Cork to Youghal by Rail.
There is not much of interest in the journey from Cork to
Youghal, except near the commencement, when after passing
the riverside suburbs of Tivoli and Dunkettle, we skirt the
northern shore of Lough Mahon (see p. 46), and have some
pretty peeps down the harbour. At Queenstown Junction
the main line trains proceed in a southerly direction to
Queenstown, but we continue due eastward. Midleton
(population 2,795), about half-way to Youghal, is a military
centre, but derives its chief importance from its extensive
whisky distillery and flour mills. Curran, the famous orator
and statesman, was educated at the College here. Close to
the distillery is the ford which Raleigh defended single-
handed against Fitzgerald and his “ wild Irish rebels ” till
his own troops came up. Scott alludes to the incident in
Kenilworth, ch. xv. Midleton confers the title of viscount in
the peerage of Ireland upon the Brodrick family.
62
YOUGHAL
Youghal.
Hotels and Tariffs. — See Introduction.
Places of Worship, with hours of service on Sundays : —
St. Mary's Protestant Church — 11.30 I St. Mary's Catholic Church — 8.0.
and 6.30. 10. o, and 12.0.
I Methodist — 11.30 and 7.0.
The Quay, where steamers for Cappoquin start, is i| miles north from the
station.
’Bus between Quay and Station, or Station and Hotel, 6 d.
Steamer Fares. — -2/- and 1/4, single ; 3/- and 2/- return. Excursion fares,
single, 1/6 , return, 2/-. Bicycles are carried at 1/- each.
Car Fare for three persons from Station to Hotel or Steamer, 1/-.
Population. — About 4,000.
The town consists of a modern seaside portion, called The
Strand, lying near the station and overlooking the bay, and
an older portion, Youghal proper, at the foot of a hill, a mile
from the station. It has an important salmon-fishery, and
excellent sea-fishing may be enjoyed in the bay. The beach
is admirably adapted for sea-bathing.
The town received its first charter from King John, and
is said to derive its name from the Irish word for yew-wood,
the hills having been formerly covered with yews. It was
once strongly fortified, and a large part of its walls still stand
on the western and northern sides. Cromwell entered it in
1649, by the Water Gate, and for a time made the town his
headquarters. On the site of the ancient South Gate now
stands a structure called the Clock Gate. In Main Street
is an ancient tower known as Tynte’s Castle. (It is on the
right-hand side as one comes from the Clock Tower.) A few
yards from this, a street on the left leads to St. Mary’s Church,
occupying the site of a church which existed before the Nor-
man invasion, was rebuilt by the eighth Earl of Desmond,
who founded a college in connection with it in 1464, and was
restored early in the seventeenth century by the “ great ”
Earl of Cork.* (The college just mentioned is still standing
in Nelson Street, close to the church. It was, for a time, the
residence of William Congreve, the dramatist, and his father,
the latter being the earl’s agent.) The massive tower of the
church has a height of 50 feet, and is known as Cromwell’s
* The first Earl of Cork, who arrived in Ireland in 1588, says in
his autobiography : “ All my wealth was £2 7 3s. in money, a dia-
mond ring, a bracelet of gold, a taffety doublet, a pair of black
velvet breeches, laced and cut upon taffety, two cloaks, competent
linen and necessaries/ with my rapier and dagger.” Before his
death his income was at the rate of £50 a day, exclusive of the
value of his houses and parks.
YOUGHAL
63
Tower. The interior is very beautiful, especially the choir,
which contains an east window unequalled in Ireland for size,
beauty of form, and richness of glass. The roof is of dark
Irish oak. In the south transept are the tomb of Earl Des-
mond and his countess, and a monument to the first Earl of
Cork — the “ great ” earl, as he is usually called — who is
represented in a recumbent position between his two wives,
while underneath are the figures of his children.
W. Lawrence,] [ Dublin .
MYRTLE GROVE.
Adjoining the churchyard is —
Myrtle Grove,
which belonged to Sir Walter Raleigh, having formed part of
a grant of land with which he was rewarded for repressing the
rebellion of the Earl of Desmond in 1579. It was while
residing here that Raleigh planted the first potatoes in Ire-
land, having brought some from Virginia, and also startled
his domestics by smoking tobacco. He was mayor of the
6 4
YOUGHAL TO CAPPOQUIN
town in 1588-9. The house, a plain sixteenth-century struc-
ture, can only be seen by permission.
Just beyond the town walls, at the north end of Main
Street, are the west gable of the church and a few other
fragments of North Abbey, founded by a Fitzgerald in 1269.
From Youghal the tourist can take the half-hourly ferry
and proceed to Ardmore (6 miles), with its interesting ecclesi-
astical remains (see our Guide to Waterford, etc.).
Youghal to Cappoquin by Road.
As an alternative to the steamer from Youghal to Cappo-
quin there is the high-road which follows the left bank of the
river as far as Camphire (public conveyance runs hence to
Lismore). The ferry can then be taken across to Villiers-
town and so to Cappoquin, or the road on the west side of the
river may be kept to, though the former course is preferable.
Youghal to Cappoquin by River.
Having walked or driven the ij miles which separate the
station at Youghal from the steamer quay, we quickly steam
into the widest part of the river. The Blackwater has a
length of over eighty miles, though only sixteen are navigable.
It rises above Kingwilliamstown, not twenty miles from
Killarney, and traverses the entire breadth of county Cork
from west to east, taking a sudden turn southward at Cappo-
quin. This lower reach of the river has been compared times
out of number to the Rhine, but so many rivers in the British
Isles have been similarly honoured that the distinction is
well-nigh valueless.
After passing the bridge with its five 100-feet spans, the
river banks rise on either side to a considerable height. The
conspicuous Rhincrew Castle, on the left, was once a precep-
tory of the Knights Templars, and was founded by Raymond
le Gros, a companion-in-arms of Strongbow. The steamer
glides past the picturesque ruins of Temple Michael Church
and Castle ; and the ruins of Molana Abbey, where Raymond
le Gros lies buried. The fine modern mansion of Ballinatray
next comes into sight ; then the river widens again into a
lake known as the Broad of Clashmore, and we have a com-
posite prospect of hills, meadows, mountains, lake and river
extremely beautiful. Strancally Castle rises over the deepest
part of the river, and its ivied ruins, blending with the mossy
Kiu.irney' (/)
THE BLACKWATER AT CAPPOQUIN.
66
YOUGHAL TO CAPPOQUIN
rocks, have a peculiarly venerable and pleasing appearance.
The new castle of Strancally is seen embowered in extensive
woods, above which rise its lofty towers and battlements.
Further on, and also overlooking the river, is Dromana
Castle, environed with beautiful plantations. Here was born
the Countess of Desmond, celebrated for longevity, who is
said to have lived 140 years, and whose vitality was only
then crushed by a fall from a tree.
She was born in the reign of Edward IV, and lived far into the
reign of J ames I. The tradition, preserved by the Earl of Leicester,
is that her life was ended by accident. “ She must needs,” says
he, “ climb a nut-tree to gather nuts ; so, falling down, she hurt
her thigh, which brought a fever and that brought death.” She
was the second wife of the twelfth Earl of Desmond, a family of
such immense possessions and influence that it could place 5,000
or 6,000 men in the field. The Countess was personally known to
Raleigh, who received a grant out of the Desmond property, which
had been forfeited by the rebellion of the sixteenth earl, in 1579.
Raleigh was under an obligation to plant it with English families,
and we find him excusing himself for the nonfulfilment of this
engagement by saying, “ There remaynes unto me but an old castle
and demavne which are yet in the occupation of the old Countess
of Desmond for her jointure.”
Tourin Castle lies on the left bank, whilst on the right are
the massive mountains of Knockmealdown, and we can dis-
tinguish in the distance the spire of the abbey on Mount
Melleray. From Camphire to Cappoquin is considered by
many the finest part of the river. The many islets add greatly
to the picturesqueness of the waterway. In the grounds
attached to Affane House, a short distance up the Finish
(right), Raleigh is said to have planted the first cherry tree
seen in Ireland, being one that he brought from the Canary
Isles.
Cappoquin.
The name signifies “ Conn’s tillage plot ” ( P . W. Joyce).
The little town, which has a population of rather more than
a thousand, is delightfully situated, the surrounding country
bhng very picrturesque and containing some handsome seats.
The fine species of cherry introduced by Raleigh still flourishes.
Cappoquin is a good centre for anglers. Salmon-fishing can
be obtained on certain conditions. Trout-fishing may be
freely enjoyed within a minute’s walk of Morrissey' s Hotel.
The town is also a point from which some charming excur-
sions may be taken.
The most important is that to —
MOUNT MELLERA V
67
Mount Melleray Abbey,
three and a quarter miles distant Several cars run daily
from Cappoquin station on arrival of trains from Waterford
and Lismore. (Fare 1/-.)
The Abbey is situated about 650 feet above the level of the
sea, on the southern slope of the Knockmealdown Mountains.
It belongs to the Order of La Trappe, and was founded for
the reception of Cistercian monks expelled from France in
1830. The inmates vary in number from seventy to eighty,
and consist of choir monks and lay brothers. The former,
IF. Lawrence ,] [Dublin.
AT MOUNT MELLERAY.
who number about thirty, dress in white, the latter in brown
homespun. They lead a hard life, which they support on
the simplest vegetarian fare, the severity of their rule being
almost unequalled. Perpetual silence is the rule for all, but
this has to be relaxed in favour of the porter, the school
teachers, and any who may be obliged to speak in the trans-
action of business.
Visitors of the male sex are courteously shown over the
monastery, and may even stay as guests for a short time free
of charge. A sufficient sum should, however, be placed in
68
LISMORE CASTLE,
CAPPOQVIN TO LIS MORE 69
the poor box at the door when leaving. For the accommo-
dation of ladies who may be of the party there is a special
guest-house opposite the monastery walls.
Cappoquin to Lismore (4 miles by road or rail).
The railway line crosses, half a mile west of Cappoquin
station, first the Glenshelans and then the Blackwater, afford-
ing charming views on the right, including one of Cappoquin
House. A couple of miles further the line leaves the river.
The roads between Cappoquin and Lismore are among the
most beautiful in Ireland. There is one on each side of the
river.
That on the north runs close to the stream for a mile, and
is then separated from it by meadows. It again approaches
the river near the bridge over the Owennashad, a tributary
of the Blackwater. Hard by is Lismore Bridge, on which
the tourist should stop and look up and down the river. The
view towards Lismore includes the Castle, towering above
the surrounding beeches, and also the Cathedral spire.
The road on the south side of the river affords most de-
lightful views of the opposite and more wooded part of the
valley. The tourist who makes it his choice must cross
Cappoquin Bridge and then turn to the right. At the end
of a mile he will be at the brink of the river, just opposite
Salterbridge House, and for the next mile and a half will
travel by the side of the stream. When he gets abreast of a
wooded islet, he will find that the road turns to the left, while
on the right is the Round Hill, an ancient stronghold formerly
known by the name now borne by the neighbouring town —
Lismore, the great fort. At the end of another quarter of a
mile the traveller must bear to the right, and then a straight
mile or so lies between him and —
Lismore,
a well-built market-town, occupying the summit of a steep
hill, and famed for the scenery amidst which it stands, its
fishing, and its castle.
Lismore Castle is one of the seven seats of the Duke of
Devonshire (the others are Chatsworth, Hardwick, Holker,
Compton Place, Bolton Abbey, and Devonshire House,
Piccadilly). On week-days it is open to visitors from 10.0
a.m. to 6.0 p.m. It occupies a magnificent situation on a
wood-clad cliff rising almost perpendicularly from the water’s
70
LIS MORE CASTLE
edge. Thackeray speaks of it as “ not as large, but as noble
and picturesque as Warwick.”
The Castle was founded in 1185 by Prince John, the son of
Henry II, and four years later was almost destroyed by the
natives. By whom the damage w r as repaired is unknown,
but the restored building was long held by the Bishops of
Lismore and served them as a residence. In 1587 it passed
into the possession of Sir Walter Raleigh, and some fifteen
years later w'as sold by him to Richard Boyle, afterwards
first Earl of Cork, by whom it was rebuilt. In 1627 the
earl’s youngest and famous son, Robert Boyle, w r as born
within its w r alls. During the Civil War of the seventeenth
century it was captured and burnt, but ten years after its
destruction w r as rebuilt, and in 1689 gave shelter for a night
to James II, when he w r as fleeing from the Boyne to Water-
ford. On the death of the last Earl of Cork, in the middle
of the eighteenth century, it became the property of the
fourth Duke of Devonshire through his marriage with the
earl’s daughter, and was practically rebuilt by the sixth duke.
At the eastern angle of the river front is the Tow r er of
King James, so called from its having afforded brief shelter
to that sovereign. In the rear of this is King John’s Tow r er,
said to have been the scene of the first parliament held in
Ireland under the presidency of that prince. At the western
angle of the river face rises the Carlisle Tower, named after
the Earl of Carlisle, Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland in the middle
of the nineteenth century, by whom the foundation stone
w r as laid. The drawdng-room is renowned for the loveliness
of the view from the great bay wdndow.
Lismore Cathedral (Church of Ireland) is mostly of seven-
teenth century work, the “ great ” Earl of Cork having ex-
pended a large sum upon it, but the spire is more modern ;
while, on the other hand, some of the pillars in the nave
belong to the thirteenth century. It stands on a height to
the east of the town, and is chiefly remarkable for its in-
scribed slabs of ancient date.
The cyclist or motorist who makes his way from —
Lismore to Fermoy by Road (16 miles),
views much beautiful scenery that cannot be seen from the
line. The way out of Lismore is by the bridge over the
Black w'ater. At 3J miles from Lismore is the Bridge of
Ballysaggartmore, near which, on the southern side of the
LIS MO RE TO FERMOY
7i
river, is Glencairn Abbey, in a charming demesne open to
visitors. The monks’ cells are still to be seen in a portion of
the building that rises perpendicularly from the brink of the
river. About a mile farther the ruined Castle of Ballyduff
may be seen on the southern bank. The river is crossed
close to the castle, and the traveller must then turn to the
right. Rather more than a mile from the bridge he will pass
Ballyduff Station, while another mile will bring him abreast
of the ruins of Mocollop Castle, with the adjacent modern
residence, on the northern side of the river, and a little
beyond that he will pass under the line, which runs between
the high-road and the river for the next 3^ miles. When
that distance has been traversed he will again go under the
line, and will see Kilmurry House on the opposite bank.
After passing Clondulane Station, the road once more crosses
the line, and then the ruin of Carrigabrick Castle, by the
side of the river, comes in sight.
Lismore to Fermoy by Rail.
The line runs on the southern side of the Blackwater.
About a mile from Ballyduff station are the ruins of Mocollop
Castle. Beyond Clondulane the country is prettily wooded,
and the scenery is particularly beautiful at the spot where
the line crosses the Blackwater near the ruins of Carriga-
brick Castle.
Fermoy is pleasantly situated on the Blackwater, and
contains nearly seven thousand inhabitants, besides the
troops, both infantry and cavalry, quartered in the large
barracks. Being comparatively modern, there is little in the
town to interest the tourist, but it is a good centre for anglers,
and, having railway communication with Mitchelstown,
about ten miles to the north, is a convenient spot from which
to visit the celebrated caves and castle (see our Guide to
Waterford). The caves are smaller than the Peak Cavern,
but are richer than it in stalactites. They are more exten-
sive than Cox’s Cave at Cheddar but less beautiful. A low
narrow passage gives place to a tunnel of ampler dimen-
sions, leading to a large, circular chamber called the House
of Commons. Near this another passage leads past a number
of fluted musical columns, appropriately named the “ Organ,”
to the House of Lords, a capacious and well-lighted cavern
containing many beautiful and fantastic formations. From
the House of Commons access is obtained to Sadleir’s Cave,
containing an immense stalactite that has been humorously
n fermOy to mallow
named “Lot’s wife,” and thence to Kingston Hall, a very
remarkable tent-like cavity. The above are the portions
usually visited, the time occupied being about an hour.
1 he exploration of the whole of the accessible caverns would
take six or seven times as long.
Fermoy to Mallow.
Most people will prefer to train this portion of the route,
as, although pretty, it cannot compare with the road between
Cappoquin and Fermoy. A number of castles and seats are
passed, but the only one calling for remark is Convamore,
the seat of Lord Listowel, near Ballyhooley.
Mallow is described on p. 14. For the journey from Mallow
to Cork (21 miles) and Killarney (41 miles), see p. 15.
AN ICE-ROUNDED SANDSTONE BLUFF AT LOO BRIDGE.
MILLAEMT JI-iAirCKSj.
Castleloiu/lv 3 ay
Black lake j
KILLARNEY AND THE LAKES.
W HEN, on arriving at the railway station, the tourist
hears the guard call out “ Killarney,” he probably
imagines that he has only to put his head out of the carriage
window and look down on the celebrated lakes. The word
is suggestive of a bewitching vista of blue hills, placid lakes,
sparkling streams, and romantic waterfalls ; and it is with
no little disappointment that we discover the fact that the
nearest lake is a mile away. But, as we go to our hotel, we
see the summits of distant mountains, high as the clouds,
like banners of hope hung out to greet us ; and behold a
lustrous brightness in every leaf and a verdant sheen on
every spear of grass.
Killarney is a small market town, 186 miles south-west
of Dublin, forty north of Cork, and twenty-one to the south-
east of Tralee. It is the property of the Earl of Kenmare,
and contains some good streets, though a few of the thorough-
fares are narrow and old-fashioned. Its prosperity is mainly
dependent on the influx of visitors during the summer and
autumn. Boot factories give employment to a number of
men, and recently the establishment of two rug and carpet
factories has given employment to a considerable number of
girls. The town is governed by an Urban Council. The
water supply is brought in pipes from the Devil’s Punch
Bowl, near the summit of Mangerton. The sewage system
was entirely remodelled in 1896, and is now perfect, pipes
having been substituted for the old built sewers and the
outfall removed over a mile from the nearest house. The
town is lighted both by gas and electricity. It is very
healthy, zymotic and lung diseases being practically unknown.
An authority already quoted says : *“ The climate is remark-
ably mild and equable. During the early spring months an
invalid convalescing from an attack of serious illness would
* Irish Health Resorts and Watering Places. Dr. Edgar Flinn,
Fellow and Member of Council of the British Institute of Public
Health.
73
74
KILLARNEY
derive great benefit from a residence at Killarney, the place
being well sheltered and protected from harsh winds.”
The Parish Church of St. Mary (Church of Ireland) is a
handsome edifice in the Early English style, built in 1868.
The interior is richly decorated. The Catholic Cathedral (St.
Mary’s), designed by Pugin, is a building of magnificent pro-
portions, containing a fine organ. It is cruciform in shape,
with a massive square central tower. The Bishop’s Palace
adjoins. The Franciscan Friary and Church stand in orna-
mental grounds near the railway station. There are also
Presbyterian and Methodist Churches. There are three Con-
W. Lawrence ,] Dublin.
THE CATHOLIC CATHEDRAL.
vents (Sisters of Mercy, Presentation, and Loretto), also a
Presentation Monastery, each with schools attached. The
Diocesan Seminary of St. Brendan is close to the Cathedral.
The girl pupils of the Convents of Mercy and the Presenta-
tion excel in the making of Irish lace and art needlework,
and visitors are always welcome to see the work in progress,
and mayhap to purchase some as a souvenir. The proceeds
are devoted to the maintenance of the schools and to charity.
There is also a School of Arts and Crafts, endowed by Vis-
count and Lady Castlerosse for the benefit of the artisan
population. The Club House is in New Street ; visitors have
KILLARNEY
7 5
the privilege of entry on the introduction of a member. The
Total Abstinence Society occupies a spacious building, which
visitors may view. The County Lunatic Asylum, standing
on the high ground to the north of the town, commands an
uninterrupted view of the splendid scenery of the district.
These, with the pretentious castellated Police Barracks, the
Courthouse, the Town Hall, and the Union Workhouse com-
plete the list of public buildings.
The private residences in the vicinity of Killarney are
numerous and worthy of their unrivalled environment. Kil-
larney House, the magnificent Irish home of the Earl of
Kenmare, adorns the crest of a hill at the west end of the
town, surrounded by its splendid demesne and park of vast
extent, skirting the Lower Lake. In the exquisite Italian
gardens of the house a flower show is annually held, under
the presidency of the Countess of Kenmare. The Annual
Fete, under the auspices of the Gaelic League, is also held in
the grounds. Muckross House (the seat of Lord Ardilaun),
an Elizabethan mansion in white Portland stone, overlooks
the Middle Lake, and is close to Muckross Abbey. The
grounds are nearly 800 acres in extent. Here Queen Victoria
and the Prince Consort were entertained on their visit to
the lakes in 1861. Flesk Castle and Southhill House occupy
elevated positions a little to the south of the town. From
the battlements of the former an extensive view of the lakes
may be obtained. Lake View House and Aghadoe House are
situated on the western shore of the Lower Lake, and Caher-
nane House at its north-eastern end. The picturesque Park
House takes its name from the Deer Park in which it stands,
embowered in magnificent and aged trees. The grounds of
all these residences are laid out with admirable taste and
command delightful prospects. In recent years also a num-
ber of pretty villas have been erected in the neighbourhood
of the town.
Killarney was visited in 1897 by the present Prince and
Princess of Wales, who were delighted with the beauties of
the lakes. It was suggested at the time that Killarney
would form an ideal spot for a royal residence. Indeed, it
is believed that negotiations were actually entered into for
the purchase of Muckross House.
Hotels.
A point on which the British tourist will probably feel
KILLARNEY
j6
some anxiety is that of the provision for domestic comfort
during his stay at Killarney. He need, however, entertain
no misgiving. Possibly no touring district in the kingdom,
certainly none in Ireland, is so well furnished in respect of
hotel accommodation as Killarney, and the hotels are of all
classes, suitable to the taste and means of every condition
of visitor, from the luxurious establishments catering for the
wealthy to the more modest but comfortable hostelries
patronised by the visitor of moderate means. We quote
again from Dr. Edgar Flinn’s admirable publication : “ The
hotel accommodation at Killarney is of the very highest
order, and in point of comfort and good management cannot
be excelled. This is one of the principal reasons why a
sojourn at Killarney is so thoroughly enjoyable ; one can
always depend on being supplied with the best essentials of
home comfort, coupled with a good cuisine, after the day’s
sightseeing.” In the height of the season it is prudent to
secure rooms in advance. We give below a list of the hotels
in Killarney, and further information concerning the best of
them may readily be obtained from the advertisement pages.
For tariffs, ^^Introduction.
The Great Southern Hotel is within two minutes’ walk of the
Railway Station, and is approached by a private covered
way. It is situated in its own extensive grounds, which
adjoin Lord Kenmare’s deer park.
The Royal Victoria Hotel is beautifully situated on the
northern shore of the Lower Lake. Its grounds extend
to the water’s edge.
The Lake Hotel stands at the head of a small inlet of Castle-
lough Bay, the eastern portion of the Lower Lake. It
is within a few yards of the water’s edge and is surrounded
by beautifully-kept grounds.
The Muckross Hotel is close to the entrance to the Muckross
demesne, at the foot of Mangerton.
O’Sullivan’s Hotel adjoins the Muckross.
The Lake View commands an extensive view of the Lower
and Middle Lakes.
The Glebe Hotel I are conveniently near to the Railway
and f Station and centrally situated for the
The Killarney Hotel j scenery.
The Commercial Hotel is adjacent to the last-named.
The Park Place Hotel is within view of the Deer Park and
close to the town.
The Home Farm Hotel overlooks the Earl of Kenmare’s Home
Park.
77
ARBUTUS ISLAND, UPPER LAKE.
;8
KILLARNEY
The Innisfallen Hotel is in Main Street, opposite the Pro-
testant Parish Church ; and
The Imperial Hotel, in College Street, faces the Glebe and
Killarney Hotels.
Private lodgings, as a rule less expensive than hotels, may
readily be obtained in the town and neighbourhood.
The local Tourist Association will be glad to supply further
information as to the above and other hotels and boarding-
houses in the district.
Postal Arrangements. — The Post Office in New Street is open : On week-day
7.0 a.m. to 8.0 p.m. ; Sundays, 7.0 to 10. o a.m. and 4.30 to 6.0 p.m.
Telegrams : Week-days, 8.0 a.m. to 8.0 p.m. ; Sundays, 8.0 to 10. o a.m.
and 4.30 to 6.0 p.m.
Mails made up for Dublin and England : Week-days, 2.15 and 8.15 p.m. ;
Sundays at latter hour only.
Places of Worship. — Church of Ireland. — Parish Church of St. Mary : Services:
Sundays, 11.30 a.m. and 7.0 p.m. ; Church holidays, 11.30 a.m ; Fridays,
8.0 p.m. All seats free and unappropriated. The church is open daily,
12.0 to 6.0 o’clock.
Holy Trinity, Muckross : Sundays, 11.30 a.m. and 4.0 p.m.
Aghadoe : Sundays, 11.30 a.m.
Presbyterian : Sundays, 11.30 a.m. and 7.0 p.m.
Methodist : Sundays, 11.30 a.m. ; Thursdays, 8.0 p.m.
Roman Catholic. — St. Mary's Cathedral : Sundays and holidays, 7.0, 8.0,
and 10.30 a.m., 12.0 noon, and 7.30 p.m. ; Wednesdays, 8.0 p.m. ; Fridays,
7.30 p.m.
Holy Trinity ( Franciscan ) : Sundays and holidays, 6.0, 7.15, and 9.0
a.m. and 4.0 p.m. ; week-days, 6.39, 7.0, and 8.0 a.m. ; Tuesdays and
Fridays, 7.45 p.m.
Banks. — There are two banks — the Munster and Leinster Bank in Main Street,
and the National Bank in New Street.
Amusements.
Besides the delightful excursions from the town, with
which we shall deal at length directly, visitors and inhabi-
tants alike are well provided with the means of keeping dull
care at a distance. Excellent Golf Links, consisting of nine
holes, in a course two and a half miles long, have been laid
out in Lord Kenmare’s Park ; and a Golf Club, of which his
lordship and all the resident gentry are members, has been
established. Visitors are admitted on payment of a small
fee. The local Lawn Tennis Club possess some first-rate
courts, and visitors to the town can obtain permission to
play. A Croquet Lawn is attached. In addition, there is a
Lawn Tennis and Cricket Ground, admission to which is
readily obtainable, on the banks of the Flesk, scarcely
half a mile from the centre of the town. Fishing in the lakes
is free to any visitor who chooses to provide himself with a
salmon license, which costs twenty shillings. The best fish-
W. Lawrence,] MIDDLE LAKE AND
So
KILLARNEY
ing season is in March, April and May. The close season
commences in November, and ends in January. The boat-
men generally take out a license, which they have, or assume
to have, the privilege of transferring to the tourist who
employs them and their boats. There is a Racecourse in a
natural amphitheatre near Killarney, where a meeting is
held once a year ; and the Regatta on the Lower Lake is
one of the features of the season. These, with billiard
rooms for the employment of a wet day, effectually remove
all fears of ennui from the minds of visitors to Killarney.
Cycling and Motoring. 1
The roads in the vicinity are well laid out and maintained
in good condition for cycling. All dangerous hills or turnings
are marked with danger posts. Within a radius of twenty
miles of Killarney it is possible to secure light refreshments
at roadside houses. Some suggested routes are outlined on
pages 124-7.
The Excursions
are, however, as they should be, the visitors’ chief amuse-
ment. The railway lines to Kenmare and Valentia have
added considerably to the attractions of the district in this
respect, for they afford the tourist facilities for visiting the
beautiful coast of Kerry easily and economically. Public
coaches run daily, in the season, between Cahirciveen and
Kenmare and between Killarney and Kenmare, forming a
connection with the train services. In order thoroughly to
enjoy the various excursions, it is by far the best plan to
arrange with the manager of one of the hotels for guides,
cars, boats, etc., or to join the parties which he gets up.
Cars.
The car fares are regulated by bye-laws, and all the hackney
carriages are numbered for purposes of identification. The
drivers also wear numbered badges and carry books, which
they are bound to show on demand, specifying the fares to
all places in the district.
A set-down within the town,
1 or 2 persons . . -/6
3 or 4 „ . . if-
KILLARNEY
By time. One-horse carriages :
First hour i or 2 persons .. 2/-
„ 3 or 4 „ . • 3/-
Every half-hour afterwards, 1 or 2 ,, . • 1/-
„ „ 3 or 4 ,, 1/6
Two-horse carriages, carrying eight or more persons,
charged double the foregoing.
The following is a list of the charges for the principal
drives, calculated for one-horse carriages, double being
charged for pair-horse wagonettes : —
* To the Gap of Dunloe and from Ross Castle . . . 10/-
* To the Gap of Dunloe, from Ross Castle, and through
the West Demesne . . . • • .12/6
Round Ross Island . . . . • • 4/ _
To Mulgrave Police Station, on Kenmare Road, and
back . . . . . . • • 9/~
To Muckross Abbey, through the Demesne and Dinas
Island, and return by Tore Waterfall . . . 8/-
Through the Earl of Kenmare’s Home Park . • 3/6
To Carran Tual Mountain, waiting and return . . 11/6
To Mangerton, waiting and return . . . 9 l~
Through the Earl of Kenmare’s Deer Park . . 4/6
Through Lord Kenmare’s Deer Park, Aghadoe Ruins,
West Demesne, round Ross Island, and return . 9/-
To Ross Castle . . . . . . • 2/3
To Aghadoe Ruins and back . . . . .4/6
To Muckross Abbey, through Demesne, Dinas Island,
and Mulgrave Police Station, and back . . 11/6
Through Ross Island and the West Park . . • 6/6
Through Ross Island, West Park, and Deer Park . 8/-
Through Lord Kenmare’s West Park and return . . 5/6
*To Muckross Abbey, through Demesne and Dinas
Island, to the Tunnel on Kenmare Road, Derri-
cunnihy, and from Ross Castle Quay . . • 10/6
*Through Lord Kenmare’s. Deer Park, Aghadoe Ruins,
West Demesne, and from Library Quay in Ross
Island . . . . . . . 9/-
Boats must be used in connection with the routes marked thus,*.
But it must be remembered that the visitor has the option,
at the termination of the journey, of paying by time. When
business is not very brisk cars may be secured by agreement
for much lower fares than the foregoing.
Distances.
The following table of distances (furnished by the County
Surveyor of Kerry) from Killarney to the chief places of
interest will be of use to the tourist
Killarney (g)
82
KILLARNEY
Miles. Miles.
Muckross Abbey . . 2f Tunnel on Kenmare Road. 6^
Tore Cascade .... 4^ Lord Brandon’s Cottage . 3I
Derrycunnihy Cottage . y\ Beaufort Bridge . . . 5|
Gap of Dunloe (Kate Rear- Mulgrave Police Barracks . 10
ney’s Cottage) . y\ Ross Castle if
„ French’s Cottage . 9^ Ruins of Aghadoe 3^
Boat Fares.
Pair-oared boats, with one boatman : First hour . 1/6
„ ,, Every subsequent half-hour . . -/6
„ „ with two boatmen, 2/6 and ~/g respectively.
Boats may be hired by the day at 10/6 for a pair-oared
boat and 21/- for a four-oared boat. The tourist will gene-
rally find it most economical, however, to leave all arrange-
ments as to boats and cars to the hotel manager.
Guides and Ponies.
It is better, for many reasons, that the tourist should
employ a guide to show him over the mountain passes and
through the woods. They usually receive 5/- per day.
Ponies may be hired from 6/- to 3/6 per day, according to
the demand.
Heights of Mountains.
Feet.
Feet.
Carr an Tual
• 3 > 4 X 4
Tomies
. . 2,413
Mangerton
, . 2,756
Tore ....
. . 1,764
Purple Mountain
• 2,739
Eagles’ Nest
1,103
Sizes of
Lakes.
Greatest Length. Greatest Width.
Area.
Miles.
Miles.
Statute Acres.
Lower Lake
• 5 i
3
5,001
Middle Lake
2
1
680
Upper Lake
2f
430
Long Range
3 f
—
120
The elevations
of the loughs above the sea
are : —
Feet
Feet.
Devil’s Punch Bowl
. 2,206
Cushvalley
• • 337
Cum-Meen-Na-Copasta 2,156
Guittane .
. . 256
Gouragh .
1,226
Coom-a-Dhuv
197
Callee
1,096
Upper Lake .
. . 70
Black Lough
• • 587
Lower Lake .
. . 66
83
GENERAL VIEW OF THE LAKES FROM THE KENMARE ROAD.
8 4
KILLARNEY
The Lakes.
The chief attraction of the district is the beautiful scenery
surrounding the famous lakes, which are three in number,
known respectively as the Upper ; the Middle, or Tore ; and
the Lower, or more properly Lough Leane. The lakes are
connected by a tortuous stream, called the Long Range,
which winds in and out in the most pleasant manner. The
lakes are fed by a number of mountain streams, their surplus
water being discharged by the river Laune, which flows from
the south-west corner of the Lower Lake to Castlemaine
Harbour, on the coast of Kerry. The Long Range was ad-
mitted by Sir Walter Scott to be finer than anything in his
beloved Scottish lake district. The head of the Lower Lake
and the whole of the other two are surrounded by high
mountains and scenery of the most romantic nature ; and
after exploring the lakes as recommended in the following
pages, we believe most tourists will agree with Thackeray
when he pronounces them “ too handsome.”
If the visitor is pressed for time and does not fear fatigue,
he may, by “ galloping over the lakes in one day,” get a
glimpse of their more prominent features. To do so, he may
proceed by Aghadoe ; visit Dunloe Castle, and ascend Carran
Tual, descending by the Black Valley ; and return by boat
through the lakes. Or he may proceed back through the
Gap of Dunloe, and home by Lord Brandon’s Cottage, Derry-
cunnihy, Eagles’ Nest, Tore and Muckross. Another one
day excursion is by Aghadoe, Beaufort Bridge, through the
Pass of Dunloe, and back by water from the head of the
Upper Lake, visiting Dinish Island, O’Sullivan’s Cascade,
Innisfallen and Ross.
But though it is better to take a few tantalising glances
at the lakes than not to visit Killarney at all, at least a week
should, if practicable, be spent there ; and those who are
able to stay for that time will be able to vary the excursions
as the weather may render desirable.* For the convenience
of such visitors, we append a programme of excursions,
which will enable them to visit everything worth seeing
within a considerable radius of the town. The first five
excursions exhaust the district of the lakes ; the sixth and
* The hotel-keepers have arranged a series of excursions which
by somewhat hard work, enable their guests to see the chief features
of the district in three days.
SUGGESTED TOURS
85
following days will enable those who may be inclined to
visit the wild and grand scenery of the Kerry coast an oppor-
tunity of gratifying their desire : —
First Day. — Muckross Abbey and Demesne ; DinishJIsland ;
Meeting of the Waters ; Old Weir Bridge ; Eagles’ Nest ; the
White Deer ; the Tunnel ; Queen’s Cottage ; Derrycunnihy
Cascade ; Mulgrave Police Barracks, and view from the point
above it ; return by Tore Waterfall.
Second Day. — Ascend either Mangerton or Carran Tual :
the latter is the higher and more difficult.
Third Day. — Lower Lake ; Ross Island and Castle ; Innis-
fallen Island and Abbey ; O’Sullivan’s Cascade ; Bay of
Glena.
Fourth Day. — Aghadoe and Gap of Dunloe ; Turnpike and
Black Valley ; Logan Stone ; Upper Lake ; Long Range ;
Eagles’ Nest ; Muckross or Middle Lake.
Fifth Day . — Glenflesk ; Labig Owen and Druidical remains
at Lissivigeen ; Kenmare Demesne ; Lord Kenmare’s West
Park and Demesne ; Ross Island, and the Deer Park.
Sixth and Following Days. — Revisit favourite spots or pro-
ceed to Cahirciveen, Valentia Island, Waterville, etc., return-
ing by coach to Kenmare.
In the following pages all needful directions are given for
each excursion.
FIRST DAY.
Muckross Abbey and Demesne — Dinish Island — Meeting of
the Waters — Old Weir Bridge — Eagles’ Nest — The White
Deer — The Tunnel — Queen’s Cottage — Derrycunnihy Cas-
cade — Mulgrave Police Station, and view from the point
above it — Return by Tore Waterfall.
T AKING our seats on an excursion brake, or a jaunting
car, we jog smoothly and merrily along to
Muckross,
two and a half miles south of Killarney. The hotels here
afford excellent quarters, and the village is frequently selected
by tourists as headquarters, as it is close to Muckross Abbey
and Demesne, and within walking distance of Tore Waterfall
and Dinish Island. The lakelet at the back of the hotel
afforded his Majesty and party some good fishing on the
occasion of his visit as Prince of Wales, but it is by no means
certain that it will be equally kind to more humble anglers.
The little church of Killagey, on an eminence hard by, enjoys
the reputation of being the smallest in the kingdom. We
alight at Muckross to visit all that is left of —
Muckross Abbey,
which occupies the site of the old-world Church of Irrelagh
(a name meaning “ the building on the lough ”), burned
somewhere about 1192. The present ruins, however, are old
enough in all conscience, the Abbey, which was inhabited
by Franciscan friars, having been founded in 1340 by the
MacCarthys, princes of Desmond. There are the remains of
the church, 100 feet long, consisting of choir, nave and
transept. The breadth of the choir is about 25 feet, and
the transept is 35 feet in length. In the centre is a strong
square tower. The transept is united to the nave by a
lofty arch ; on the opposite side a narrow doorway leads
to the cloisters, the best preserved and most interesting part
of the structure. The buildings form a square of 36 feet.
MUCK ROSS
87
surrounded by an arcade, consisting of twelve semicircular
arches on the east and south sides, and ten pointed ones on
the west and north. The arcade lights a corridor about five
feet in width. The arches and pillars are of grey marble.
In the centre of the square a magnificent yew-tree spreads
its great branches. Its venerable associations and picturesque
situation make this ruin one of the most imposing and re-
markable places near Killarney. Adjoining the cloister were
the apartments of the friars. A beautiful doorway forms
T.Healy ,] [Killarney.
DOORWAY, MUCKROSS ABBEY.
the entrance to the nave ; and the great oriel window of
the choir is seen through the Gothic arch which pierces the
tower or belfry. The window is divided into four lights by
interlaced mullions. The gable is densely shrouded with ivy,
and the floor thickly strewn with graves, the most noted of
which, although one of the least ostentatious, is that of
MacCarthy More. In the vault beneath also rest the ashes
of O’Donoghue, and the visitor will read the lines graven
on the monument : —
88
MUCK ROSS
' What more could Homer’s most illustrious verse
Or pompous Tully’s stately prose rehearse,
Thau that this monumental stone contains,
In death's embrace, McCarthy More’s remains ?
Hence, reader, learn the sad and certain fate
That waits on man — spares not the great;
And while this venerable marble calls 1
Thy patriot tear, perhaps, that trickling falls,
MUCKROSS ABBEY.
MUCK ROSS
89
And bids thy thoughts to other days return,
And with the spark of Erin’s glory burn,
While to her fame some grateful tributes flow ;
Oh ! ere you turn, one warmer drop bestow —
If Erin’s chiefs deserve thy generous tear,
Heir of their worth, O’Donoghue, lies here.”
This was also the place of sepulture of the O’Sullivans More,
once among the proudest chiefs in Kerry, whose graves,
and those of many other stalwart leaders, he unnoticed in
the rank vegetation that carpets Muckross.
The Abbey is not without some stately modern monu-
ments ; yet their beauty appears out of place amidst such
mouldering desolation. The graves of the peasantry lie in
many a grassy heap on the south side, and some of the cut
stones have been taken from its walls to mark them.
Muckross Demesne,
in which the Abbey stands, was purchased in 1900 by Lord
Ardilaun for £ 60 , 000 . The grounds occupy a peninsula,
about a mile and a half wide, and are laid out in walks and
gardens of romantic beauty. An excursion through the
grounds is a source of considerable pleasure. The Ladies’
Walk, along the shores of the lake, affords one of the choicest
rambles in Killarney ; yet it is surpassed by another, ex-
tending by the borders of Muckross Lake for about two
miles. From this we have sublime views of Mangerton and
Tore Mountains and the many exquisite islands in the lake.
The demesne is considered by many to be, in respect to
natural scenery, the finest in the kingdom. The visitor must
not fail to see the “ Royal Family,” a group of young trees
one of which was planted by Queen Victoria.
Quitting the demesne and returning to our car, we pro-
ceed through the peninsula of Muckross, The road now runs
over Brickeen Bridge to Brickeen Island, which is joined to
Dinish Island by another bridge. On Dinish Island is a neat
Cottage, where visitors can obtain tea and light refreshments.
Here we leave the car to follow on foot a little path by the
cottage, which brings us to a spot where can be obtained
a view of Old Weir Bridge and the famous “ Meeting of the
Waters.”
Mounting once more, we still keep Tore Lake on the left
until we reach the main road leading to the Long Range
and the Upper Lake. Do not omit to ask the driver to
THE TUNNEL— DERRYCUNNIHY
point out the White Deer ; though whether you ask or not,
he is almost sure to call attention to it. Seen from the car,
there appears a very fair outline of a white deer in a crouching
position ; so accurately delineated is the figure that you
are led to believe it must have been cut in relief out of the
rock. Further on. we come to —
The Tunnel,
an arch cut through an enormous rock, under which the
road passes. From the top one of the finest views of the
Upper Lake is obtained. The background to this picture is
formed by the rugged summits of the Reeks — Carran Tual
rising like a dome above the crowded panorama ; while
before us are the Black Valley and the entrance to the Gap
of Dunloe. Opposite is the Doogary River, and we see its
waters flashing down the furrows of the Purple Mountain.
Every description of scenery meets the eye. There are pre-
cipices crowned with pines ; naked rocks, rent, seamed and
broken, jut darkly into the waters ; and there are precipitous
slopes strewn with detached masses of rock, bald and barren,
or covered with purple heather or fresh sward. There are
islands clad with foliage, and winding shores lined with
evergreens, alternating with stately forest-trees.
About a mile further on, we cross the Galways River, close
to the Derrycunnihy Cascade. To visit it, we take a bye-
path ; and long before seeing the fall hear its reverberations.
Surrounded by some of the choicest scenery in Killarney,
the cataract is exceedingly fine. It plunges down a deep
mountain chasm, amid rocks which tear the waters into
torrents that fall shivering on to lower rocks.
Pat will not fail to show the visitor the footmarks in the
Rock of Derrycunnihy, tending to corroborate his assertion
that a chief of that name leaped across the fall. Similar
footmarks graven on rocks are frequently seen all over
Ireland. Spenser considered that they were boundary marks,
where, standing on the stone, the chiefs were sworn to pre-
serve all the ancient customs of the country. Here we find
another of the picturesque cottages (of which there are three
in the lake district) erected by Lord Kenmare to entertain
the royal party on the occasion of Queen Victoria’s visit
in 1 86 1 .
The picturesque Mulgrave Police Barracks are about half
KILLARNEY TO KEN MARE
9i
a mile west of the fall. Passing the police station, we ascend
a point a little to the right in order to enjoy the splendid
view it commands. This is the farthest point of our day’s
jaunt.
A beautiful diversion can be obtained by turning to the left
from the coach-road at Galway’s Bridge and taking the path direct
to the top of the mountain. It crosses two streams by fording-
stones, and then commences to ascend in zigzag fashion. From
IV. Lawrence ,] [ Dublin .
TUNNEL ON THE KENMARE ROAD.
the top a view can be obtained which is equal to that from Man-
gerton, whilst the road is easily accessible to ladies and inexperienced
climbers. Southward lies Kenmare Bay, and northward, or more
correctly north-westward, the whole stretch of Killarney lakes can
be seen, with Carran Tual and the Purple Mountains to the left.
The road drops straight into Kenmare, but it is rather hard walk-
ing, as the decline is very sharp. For those who are staying in
Killarney it would be an excellent day’s work to take coach or car
to Galway’s Bridge, walk over the ridge (having lunch al fresco ) ,
proceed to Kenmare, and return by the evening train.
The return to Killarney is made by way of —
Q2
THE TORC CASCADE
The Tore Cascade.
Bordering the road are some of the finest fir-trees in the
district ; tall, stately trunks whose branches spread and
interlace. As we approach the fall, its sullen roar breaks
on the ear, increasing in intensity as we proceed from the
T. W. Shiels,] [Dublin.
THE TORC CASCADE.
main road up the little path which leads to it. The fall is
concealed by trees and evergreens until we are close upon
it, when through a vista in the leafy screen it bursts on the
eye in all its beauty, plunging with terrific force down a
MANGERTON
93
rock some 60 feet in height. It is best seen, of course,
immediately after showery weather. The first bound is in
a broad, unbroken sheet ; then it divides and leaps from
rock to rock in tumultuous grandeur, foaming and wreath-
ing, boiling and surging, uniting and again dividing, until
it finds its way through a dark, narrow gorge to the lake.
A winding path leads to the top, from whence we look down
on this chaos of waters. The water-worn, precipitous rocks
we ascend are shadowed with the foliage of the arbutus,
studded with velvet moss and sprayed with trembling ferns.
From the summit of the rock the Middle and Lower Lakes
are seen, with their guardian mountains and winding shores,
their fairy islands resting like swans upon the water. Like
many things of beauty, the Tore is capricious. Often the
waters flow as a mere glistening streamlet among the dark
rocks, but when Tore wreathes his head in clouds and thunder-
storms prevail the sublimity of* the cascade is revealed.
Visitors to the Tore may be warned that drivers of cars
are sometimes in so great a hurry that they do not encourage
the tourist to continue to the top of the fall. In this case
one of the finest sights in Ireland is missed, as the full beauty
of the cascade cannot be seen from any other point. With
the single exception of the upper waterfall at Glenariff in
County Antrim, the Tore is the finest cascade in the country.
SECOND DAY.
Ascend either Mangerton or Carran Tual.
No other excursion will give the tourist so precise an idea
of the topography of Killarney as that which we recommend
him to undertake on the second day of his stay.
The Ascent of Mangerton.
It saves trouble to take a guide, but the path is fairly
plain. The less robust members of the party will do well to
hire ponies.
The distance to the summit from Killarney is about seven
miles. Soon after leaving the town, we cross the Flesh ,
which flows into the Lower Lake at Castlelough Bay. The
road is bordered by high walls, which shut in the view of
the lakes, until we reach Muckross. Our road branches to
the east, by O’Sullivan’s Hotel, and so continues for nearly
a mile, when it again turns southward, and in another mile
04
MANGERTON
and a half reaches a stream and gives place to a mere path-
It is usual and much safer to leave the ponies here and to
ascend to the top on foot. About a mile on, the tourist
comes in sight of Lough Gulttana, a considerable lake, singu-
larly lovely, with three small islands on it. The mountain
now becomes bleak and rugged, but, as we proceed, more
and more interesting, the views increasing in grandeur with
every foot of elevation. After some tough climbing, we
arrive at the curious lake which goes by the name of the
Devil’s Punch Bowl. It is a tarn almost a quarter of a mile
long, deep down in a dark gorge, and looking from the great
overhanging steeps almost as black as ink. The water is
cold as ice, and as unrippled as if it were really frozen over.
No fish are found in it, though they are plentiful in the
stream that flows out of it. The echo is fine, but rather
peculiar ; it seems to ring round and round, as it bounds
and rebounds from rock to rock. The Devil’s Punch Bowl
is said to have no bottom — at least, the bottom has never
been fathomed. Charles James Fox had the temerity to
swim right round the tarn when on a visit to the Earl of
Kenmare in 1772.
By the time the ordnance mark on the summit is in sight,
the path becomes less difficult, for we tread on a peaty soil.
At the mound we are 2,756 feet above the sea, and a glorious
panorama rewards our exertions. Away to the east, the
Boggerah Mountains and the Paps loom cloud-like and blue ;
far on the north, the river Shannon is just discernible, and
nearer rise the Slieve Miskisli Mountains ; on the. west we
view the rocky ranges of Iveragh, Dingle Bay and the Ken-
mare Fiord ; southward we see the distant Caha Mountains
that shadow Glengariff and rise over Bantry Bay. But
nearer there are greater charms of scenery, for the three
lakes lie at our feet, and we overlook their fairy islands.
The town seems but a stone’s-throw away, and we can trace
the roads that converge to it for many a mile into the country.
Like silver threads, we see the streams and rivers running
amongst verdant meadows, with the gem like sheen of the
arbutus bowers that gird the glancing lakes ; higher, is a
darker zone of tasselled pines. The Macgillycuddy Reeks
stand out in all their magnificence, Carran Tual like a mon-
arch proudly overtopping all. Nearer yet, the Purple Moun-
tain and the Tomies rear their peaks ; and closer still are
the Drooping Mountain and Tore.
MANGERTON
95
It is usual to return by the same route ; but under proper
guidance several variations may be made.
On our way down we may turn aside to visit the Horse s
Glen, a chaotic pit surmounted by perpendicular rocks, con-
taining another of those cold black lakes. Except by one
narrow entrance the Glen is inaccessible.
During the descent, our face is towards the north, and
all the beauties of the lakes are mapped before us. If time
allows, a detour may be made by way of the Queen’s Drive
to Tore Cascade. The drive lies along the breast of Manger-
W. Lawrence ,] [ Dublin •
THE DEVIL’S PUNCH BOWL.
ton. It was laid out by Mr. Herbert of Muckross for
Queen Victoria, was then re-closed, but was appropri-
ately reopened to commemorate the Diamond Jubilee.
On page 9 1 we give an alternative route, not so high or
so difficult of ascent as Mangerton, but from which a very
fine view, similar to that just described, can be obtained.
Undoubtedly, the finest descent from Mangerton is on the
Kenmare side, by persevering along the path until a good
C ARRAN TUAL
9 6
road is seen winding round the base of the peak itself. From
this road to Kenmare the distance is about four miles.
Our plan gives readers the alternative of an —
Ascent of Carran Tual
and we will now describe that excursion. Though the view
from the summit is not grander than that from Mangerton,
the climb is perhaps a greater favourite with tourists, for
Carran Tual is 600 feet higher than Mangerton.
The King, during his visit to Killarney in 1858, went up
Carran Tual ; and we will follow in the steps of royalty and
order our ponies to the foot of the mountain, early enough,
however, to allow them a good rest there, for it is fifteen
miles from Killarney. The road leads away by the northern
shore of the Lower Lake, crosses the river Laune east of
Dunloe Castle, passes the entrance to the Gap, and gradually
winds amongst the mountains. We have Carran continually
in sight ; and judging distance by the eye alone, should
never suppose it so far away. At the base of the mountain,
about five miles from the top, we reach a cottage built for
the accommodation of visitors ; and here our ponies await
us. All the guides of the place assert their exclusive right
to “ show the gintleman up,” and to tell him the legends.
It is better to hire one or two of these wild, hardy, ragged
fellows ; though they may be in rags they will not covet
the coat they are entrusted to carry, nor, however hungry,
will they disturb the viands confided to their care.
We now commence the ascent, the shock-headed guides,
laden with coats and knapsacks and armed with cudgels,
leading. The path is not difficult, though rugged in places,
and strewn with coarse stones. Continuing for about three
miles, we reach an exceedingly lonely glen, whence the moun-
tain rises almost precipitously, and makes it necessary for
us to dismount. This is called the Hag’s Glen, and here are
two gloomy lakelets where the hag is said to bathe and wash
her clothes. The guide will show one of her teeth, and point
out her chair and her crutch — all fantastic rocks. But the
path becomes steeper and more steep, and not all our guide’s
wit can prevent the feeling that our work is tough. After
an hour and a half’s scrambling, we reach the summit,
crowned by a little cairn, the first stone of which was placed
by the King, then Prince of Wales ; and ^having emulated
KUlarncy [h)
97
macgillycuddy’s reeks.
CARR AN TUAL
98
him in his mountain climbing, we imitate him now and add
a stone to the monument.
The view is extremely grand, and quite repays the labour
of; ascent. We are above all the neighbouring mountains,
and our gaze is uninterrupted. If the day be clear, we can
see far into the counties of Limerick, Clare and Cork, and
right out into the Atlantic Ocean. On one side is the estuary
of the Kenmare Fiord ; on the other the wide Bay of Dingle.
We trace the Shannon from the great cliffs at Loop Head to
Kilrush, to Tarbert, and to where its waters expand and
reach towards Ennis, and even to Limerick. We make out
the Galtee Mountains that border Tipperary, at least sixty
miles to the eastward, and the mountains near Bandon to
the south. Mizen Head and Bantry Bay appear to the
south-east. We command mountains, hills, valleys, rivers,
woods and seas, islands and inlets ; until, in the distance,
land and sky appear to meet, gray and indistinct, and the
horizon is only clear where the sunbeams fall on the gleaming
waves of the Atlantic. We discern several lakes, the most
conspicuous of which is Lough Caragh, near Killorglin. The
Killarney Lakes, excepting the eastern portion of the Lower
Lake, are hidden by the intervening heights. On several of
the surrounding mountains we see small tarns. The other
reeks run in parallel ridges, intersected by wild glens and
gorges. Rugged crags hem in valleys of almost inconceivable
desolation. High over this savage wilderness the eagle builds
her nest.
At such an elevation the atmosphere is considerably rari-
fied ; and the tourist may suffer some inconvenience. He
will discover that slight exertion tires him. Nor is it wise
to remain long, as the clouds often gather round the summits,
enveloping the traveller in thick cold fog, and rendering his
movements along the edge of precipices and over boggy
moorland extremely dangerous.
These lofty and extensive mountains were long the secure
fastnesses of the powerful sept of the MacGillycuddies.
Castle Cor, near Churchtown, is the ruined residence of the
earlier branch of the clan, whose lineal descendant still
bears the title of “ MacGillycuddy of the Reeks.”
We have a choice of three routes by which to return to
the town. If we have arranged for a boat to meet us at
the head of the Upper Lake, we can descend the southern
side of the reeks into the Black Valley, and so complete a
THE BLACK VALLEY
99
delightful round, which may be accomplished without much
difficulty during a long summer day. But as we purpose
sailing over the bosom of the lake on a future day, we adopt
the course generally followed by tourists, and descend the
mountain by the path by which we reached the summit.
Then, following the course of the brawling Gaddagh River,
we can examine the fantastic precipices known as the Large
and the Small Hag’s Teeth ; and in this wilderness of rock
give our guide an opportunity of telling “ his honour ” about
the Hag herself, or the spirits, or the “ Leprechauns,” that,
“ beyond all manner of doubt,” live in the inside of the rocks.
In this way the foot of the mountain is reached, and
having duly rewarded the guides we again seat ourselves
in the car, and desire the driver to take us home by Church-
town, in order that we may visit the grave of the great chief
whose ancient territory we are in. We leave the castle of
the O’Sullivan More (Dunloe) on the right, and get on to
the Cahirciveen road at Beaufort Bridge. On the shore we
see Lake View, at one time the residence of James O’Connell,
brother of the great statesman. Then we pass the Catholic
Church, near Aghadoe House. On our left are the Aghadoe
Ruins, Saint Finian’s ancient shrine, and the Pulpit— perhaps
the Bishop’s palace.
For those who are a little more active a third descent may
be recommended. It is possible to cross by a long ridge,
showing a wonderful view, from Carran Tual to Curraghmore.
Here a good path leads down to CummeendufT Glen — rarely
visited — and from thence visitors can pass to the far end
of the Gap of Dunloe by Gap Cottage, where they will have
arranged that the ponies which they left at the Hag’s Glen
shall be waiting for them.
THIRD DAY.
Lower Lake — Ross Island and Castle — Innisfallen Island and
Abbey — O’Sullivan’s Cascade — Bay of Glena.
The third day can be pleasantly spent on
The Lower Lake,
which is studded by some thirty islands of varying form and
character, some luxuriant with foliage, others barren rocks
scarcely large enough to be called islets. O’Donoghue’s
Horse, one of the most celebrated rocks, was blown down
IOO
LOWER LAKE— ROSS ISLAND
during a storm, and lies, like the rider, deeply buried in the
waves ; but O’Donoghue’s Table, Prison, Pulpit and Library
yet survive. The chief of the islands are those of Ross,
Innisfallen and Glena, and a visit to these and to O’Sullivan’s
Cascade will fully occupy the day. The excursion may, how-
ever, if the desire of the tourist for change of scene be not
satisfied, be lengthened by a delightful voyage among the
lesser islands. Though its surroundings are not so grand as
those of the mountain-girt Upper Lake, some tourists prefer
the Lower Lake to the other two. The scenery is of a more
tranquil and sylvan type. Most people, however, probably
feel in the same state of mind as Thackeray, in the Irish
Sketch Book, when replying to the question, “ What is to
be said about Tore Lake ? ” he says : “ When there we
agreed that it was more beautiful than the large lake, of
which it is not one-fourtli the size ; then, when we came
back, we said, ‘ No, the large lake is the most beautiful ’ ;
and so, at every point we stopped at, we determined that
that particular spot was the prettiest in the whole lake.
The fact is, and I don’t care to own it, they are too hand-
some. As for a man coming from his desk in London or
Dublin and seeing ‘ the whole lakes in a day,’ he is an ass
for his pains. A child doing a sum in addition might as
well read the whole multiplication table and fancy he had
it by heart.”
The Lower Lake is more than five miles long by three
wide ; its proper name is Lough Leane (“ the lake of learn-
ing ”), probably derived from the fact that there were three
religious establishments on its shores. We first visit —
Ross Island,
which is part of the Kenmare estate, and is laid out with
walks and carriage-drives in the same tasteful and picturesque
manner as the rest of the demesne. The island is beyond
doubt of artificial formation, a moat having been cut through
a morass in the isthmus which connected it with the land at
a remote date — in all probability, as a protection to the
castle the ruins of which form a prominent feature of the
island. Its area is about 150 statute acres, and it is about
a mile in length. The shore is worn into every variety of
creek, promontory and bay, with deeply indented fantastic
and curious rocks.
Leaving Killarney by carriage, a short drive along the
101
T. W. Shiels,] [ Dublin ,
ROSS CASTLE.
102 ROSS CASTLE
high-road and across the bridge thrown over the moat, con-
ducts us to —
Ross Castle,
a noble ruin picturesquely clothed with ivy. It was the
stronghold of the O’Donoghue, who exercised kingly juris-
diction in these parts, an example which possibly influenced
the Desmond to be as good as his neighbours. In 1645 the
rebellious Irish were masters of every fortress in Kerry,
with the exception of Ballingarry ; and the county was not
COTTAGE ON ROSS ISLAND.
finally reduced until 1652. Ross Castle was then defended
by Lord Muskerry ; and General Ludlow brought a force
of 4,000 horse and foot against it. The great strength of
the place and the difficulty of attacking it would probably
have tested the endurance of the Parliamentary troops had
not the garrison been intimidated by an ancient prophecy
that the castle would be impregnable until it was surrounded
by ships of war. With characteristic energy, Ludlow caused
some boats to be dragged up from Castlemaine and launched
on the lake. Their appearance, filled with soldiers and
INNISFALLEN
103
munitions for the siege, so frightened the superstitious de-
fenders that they at once surrendered. After the troubles
that followed the struggle between James II and William III,
a detachment of the successful army subdued the county
and restored order.
The keep of the castle is nearly perfect ; it consists of a
massive square tower, with a spiral stone staircase to the
top. Originally, it was enclosed by an embattled curtain
wall, having round flanking towers at each side. It is one
of the most prominent ornaments to the lake, not less for
its associations than for its intrinsic beauty as a ruin. The
guide will point out a hundred places connected with the
memory of the O’Donoghue, including the identical window
where he leaped, charger and all, into the lake.
Ross Island is nearly in the middle of the lake, and stretches
almost half across it. Close to the castle is the quay at
which the tourist generally embarks, whether his object be
to explore the beauties of Innisfallen or to row through the
whole of the lakes.
A short row brings us to —
Innisfallen,
certainly the most charming of the isles on Lough Leane,
and made famous the world over by Moore’s beautiful lines : — -
“ Sweet Innisfallen, fare thee well,
May calm and sunshine long be thine,
How fair thou art, let others tell,
While but to feel how fair, be mine.
Sweet Innisfallen, long shall dwell
In memory’s dream that sunny smile,
Which o’er thee on that evening fell
When first I saw thy fairy isle.”
If we could select a focus of beauty where all is beautiful
we might certainly esteem this lovely island worthy of our
homage as queen of the lakes. In addition to the graces of
flowers, shrubs and forest-trees, it has peculiar attractions
of hill, valley and meadow. The waters lie in glassy sleep,
reflecting the overlooking mountains, and the sky glows with
that intense blue which is to be seen nowhere in this country
to such perfection as at Killarney.
Some of the groves on Innisfallen are so luxuriant as to
be almost impenetrable ; yet the arbutus, so general on the
104
INNISFALLEN
other islands and on the mainland, is not to be found. But
one hardly misses it, for ivy, holly, laurel and evergreen oaks
abound. The holly tree is extraordinarily abundant, and its
bright corals and the scarlet clusters of the mountain ash
are fresh and delicate as the arbutus berry. The great holly,
which the guide must find for the visitor, is thought to be
the largest in Europe. Another curiosity which will tempt
the tourist to explore the mazes of this leafy island is a tree,
or rather a combination of four trees, united so closely as to
appear growing from the same stem ; they are ash, holly,
hawthorn and ivy.
The island lies about half a mile from the shore, between
Ross and Rabbit Islands ; it is next in size to the former,
and contains about twenty-one acres. In this small space
groves of evergreens and forest-trees are disposed with such
exquisite taste that walks in many directions lead through
thickets of the densest foliage, by trees of enormous girth,
over lawns and dells and hills ; and often the view opens
through a vestibule of arching trees, through which the
mountains loom with a dreamy, indescribable outline. When
approaching the island in a boat the density of the under-
wood is such that it looks as if it were growing out of the
lake.
The remains of Innisfallen Abbey, scattered all over the
island, show that it was at one time very extensive. It was
built in the year 600 by St. Finian Lobhar (“ the Leper ”),
and inhabited by Canons Regular of the order of St. Augus-
tine, who busied themselves in the compilation of the cele-
brated “ Annals of Innisfallen,” which, with those of Ulster
Tigernach, form the real history of Ireland after the intro-
duction of Christianity. The original manuscript is in the
Bodleian Library, Oxford ; it is on parchment, and contains
fifty-seven quarto leaves. Several copies have been made.
There is one in Dublin, in the library of Trinity College. In
1893 the Archaeological Society of Ireland made a thorough
examination of the ruins of the abbey. They discovered
several old tombstones and the altar — which was restored to
its proper place — beneath the beautiful east window. The
stones of this window were found buried near the spot and
the Society had it re-erected.
Having walked round the island, and visited all the spots
worth seeing, not omitting the ruins of the Oratory, of older
date than the monastery, we row across the lake to —
105
INNISFALLEN ISLAND,
IO 6 O'SULLIVAN'S CASCADE
O’Sullivan’s Cascade.
If a bugler be among the crew, he will not fail to play
some of those tender native airs which heard anywhere are
pleasing, but here, where the refrain is echoed back from
Glena and the Tomies Mountain, the effect is enchanting.
“ Isle of Beauty ” or “ Haste and leave this Sacred Isle ”
are sweet and suggestive melodies which will impress the
ear and heart of the visitor, and he will not soon forget the
weird loveliness of the long low, full tones which end each
T. Healy ,] [KtUarney.
RUINS ON INNISFALLEN ISLAND.
bar of the tune, and which swell back with all the brilliancy
of a full chorus.
Approaching the little quay, the mountains here are ever-
changing and sublime in appearance, their bases appearing
one mass of tangled verdure, brilliant with the fresh green
of the arbutus. Ravines and watercourses furrow the slopes
above the belt of forests, whilst higher still the naked rocks
alternate with yellow whin and purple heather. The steep
summit catches the passing cloud and holds it till the drift-
O'SULLIVAN'S CASCADE— GLEN A BAY 107
ing breeze unfurls it like the pennant on a warrior’s spear.
On landing, we approach the cascade through a rich wood
along a rugged path and hear the water long before we see
it. On by a singing rivulet, far into the bosom of a dark
glen, the narrow path leading through ferns and briar and
wild-flowers of many a hue, and overshadowed with mossy
rocks and foliage, we catch no glimpse of the waterfall until
a sudden bend in the path reveals it to us in all its sublimity.
Roaring with a deafening din, leaping from rock to rock,
hissing and boiling in rock-worn abysses that look more
dreadfully dark from the white contorted waters that thunder
into them, the cataract is very beautiful. The entire height
of the fall is about 70 feet. It is divided into three leaps.
The first is over a ridge of rock, about 20 feet in perpendicular
height ; the water then rushes with great velocity and noise
through a chasm between two huge rocks, and falls foaming
over the next precipice into a wave-hollowed basin, whence,
plunging down the last descent, it continues its tumultuous
course to the placid lake. This cascade is considered by
some the finest near Killarney. The stream which forms it
descends from the Tomies Mountain.
The visitor will discover a romantic grotto beneath the
projecting rock which overhangs the lowest fall. From this
the view is finest. Some stone benches afford a welcome
rest.
Before embarking, the tourist should find out a magnificent
oak tree in the neighbourhood of the fall, known as the Royal
Oak. It measures 14 feet in circumference, and probably
is not less than 90 feet in height. We next direct our boat
along the shore to —
Glena Bay.
The voyage takes us along the foot of Tomies Mountain,
which rises precipitously to a height of 2,413 feet. We see
many beautiful islands, in whose rifted rocks the ash and the
oak have anchored their strong roots, and creeks and pro-
montories where the arbutus displays its brilliant berries and
wild roses are plentiful. Passing Stag Island, Burnt Island,
Minister’s Back and Barbie’s Garden, we enter the lovely bay
of Glena, “ the glen of good fortune,” and seek out the charm-
ing Cottage built by Lord Ivenmare. Here we find every
accommodation for luncheon. The cottage is another of the
“ Queen’s Cottages,” and in Queen Victoria’s diary the in-
108 QUEEN’S COTTAGE
cident of her visit here is mentioned in terms of the liveliest
recollection. The grounds of the cottage are tastefully laid
out, and walks giving vistas of wonderful beauty radiate in
many directions. The scenery is considered almost equal to
that of Innisfallen, and certainly is unsurpassed by any shore
T. Healy,] [ Killarney .
o’sullivan’s cascade.
view on the Lower Lake. The expanse of waters, stretching
away to Castlelough Bay, often glow in the declining sun-
beams like burnished gold. On the right hand, the Tore
Mountain as a background and the wooded peninsula of
Muckross along the water’s edge ; on the left, the island of
Ross, with its romantic castle ; and, further off, the densely-
AGHADOE
109
wooded Innisfallen — these, with the smaller islands in the
foreground, combine to make one of the fairest pictures the
visitor can find even at Killarney.
The tourist so disposed may from this point ascend the
Sheehy Mountain, descending by Celinigaun. This district,
and especially these woods, were once the haunts of the red
deer ; a few remain but are so shy that visitors rarely see
them.
FOURTH DAY.
Aghadoe and Gap of Dunloe — Turnpike and Black Valley —
Logan Stone— Upper Lake — Long Range — Eagles’ Nest
— Muckross or Middle Lake.
This excursion is one of the choicest imaginable. As the
distance is considerable, and the places and objects of interest
numerous, the tourist must start early ; and, if the weather
be propitious, he will cordially endorse the sentiment that
Killarney is “a little Paradise.” The first portion of the
journey may be made by car ; but the remainder, to the
head of the Upper Lake, must be performed on the back of
one of the sure-footed mountain ponies of the district, unless
the tourist is robust enough to walk the whole distance.
Before starting, arrangements are made for a boat to be in
waiting at the head of the Upper Lake, so that we may
return through the entire stretch of the lakes. This excur-
sion is a favourite one with those who can only spare a single
day for a visit to Killarney.
Driving along the road which skirts the northern shore of
Lough Leane, and proceeding some mile and a quarter
further west, we may turn off the main road to inspect the
ruined shrines of —
Aghadoe,
the venerable relic of bygone ages, where the shrines of
Paganism and Christianity stand side by side, vanquished
and victor alike silent and forlorn.
The remains consist of a church, a round tower and a
round castle. Only a part of the lower storey of the Round
Tower remains ; it is easy to ascend, the height of the frag-
ment being only about 12 feet. It measures in outer circum-
ference 52 feet ; the thickness of its wall was 3^- feet. The
stones, laid in regular courses, are large and well dressed ;
IIO DUNLOE CASTLE
the masonry is much better than that of either the adjacent
church or castle.
The Castle, called the “ Bishop’s Chair,” as the round
tower is called the “ Pulpit,” is about 30 feet in height ;
the walls are 7 feet thick, and contain a flight of stairs within.
The castle stands within an earthen enclosure ; and from
this circumstance and its round configuration is thought to
belong to the ninth century.
The Cathedral is about 80 feet long by 20 broad. It con-
sists of nave and choir, divided by a wall, which was evidently
once pierced by a door. The nave is believed to date from
the seventh century ; the choir from the thirteenth. Few
and broken as the walls are, they are embellished with an
architectural gem, a Romanesque doorway of exquisite
beauty, in the western wall of the nave. The stone is different
from that used in the remainder of the edifice. The walls
are densely covered with ivy.
Again seating ourselves in the car, we drive westward,
and, crossing the Laune, soon reach —
Dunloe Castle,
standing prominently on the summit of a small hill. It is
a fine object in the landscape, and the views from it are
extremely picturesque. Originally erected for the defence
of the pass of the river and for guarding Dunloe Gap, the
fortress withstood some severe struggles during the reigns of
Henry and Elizabeth. In the civil war of 1641 General
Ludlow besieged it ; the garrison made a brave defence, and
only surrendered when the greater part of the fortress had
been laid in ruins. The castle has been adapted as a resi-
dence, but retains enough of its warlike character to show
how capable of withstanding the brunt of combat it was in
the brave days of old. The excursion to Dunloe Castle is
frequently made by water, the row along the river Laune
being particularly pleasing.
Continuing the ride for another half-mile, we reach the
entrance to the celebrated —
Gap of Dunloe,
and turn aside to examine a Cave, brought to light in 1838.
Of circular shape, it was constructed of uncemented stones
inclining inwards ; and on the larger stones of the roof were
Ogham inscriptions, which tended to -show that it was a
Druidical temple or place of sepulture.
Ill
THE GAP OF DUNLOE.
1 1 2 GA PyOF D UNLOE
The Gap is a strangely wild gorge, separating the Tomies
Mountain from the Macgillycuddy Reeks, and running almost
due south for about four miles. The gates of this romantic
valley are almost perpendicular rocks, which scarcely give
room for the road. The hills on either side are spurs of the
great mountains, called respectively the Holly and Bull
Mountains. A small stream traverses the valley, expanding
in places into gloomy lakes, called the Cummeen Thomeen
Lakes, remarkable for the inky blackness of their waters.
The farthest of them, Black Lough, exceeds the others in
this respect and in coldness. While the other lakelets abound
in fish, this has none ; and Paddy assures us that this is
due to the fact that the lake is the identical spot where
St. Patrick drowned the last serpent.
Proceeding along the valley, the rocks rise on either side
in wild confusion, apparently ready to topple over and crush
the visitor. The narrow torrent is twice crossed by the road,
the brawling waters intensifying the desolate but sublime
character of the scene. As we advance, the outline of the
mountains changes. Huge boulders appear above the path,
and shattered fragments of rock strew the steep moun-
tain slopes. The Purple Mountain, with all its chro-
matic beauties ; the Tomies, with its glowing lights and in-
tense shadows ; and the Reeks, lifting their aspiring summits ;
then the black unruffled lakelets, as cold, still, and silent as
death, combine to make a picture which has no equal in
Killarney. It is a scene of utter solitude and desolation — a
picture of the valley of the shadow of death. In a distance
of about two miles after leaving Cushvalley Lough, the road
rises some 400 feet, the way being encumbered with rocks.
Close to Black Lough, where the valley narrows so as to
leave scarcely room for the road and the stream, we come to
some curious rocks, called the Turnpike. As cars cannot
proceed farther, it is usual to have ponies waiting here.
Sometimes a man will come forward, and, for sixpence a shot,
or cheaper “ if a quantity are taken,” fire a small cannon.
The effect is wonderful. A thousand repetitions spring from
the mountain, caverns and hollows ; a perfect torrent of
thunder rushes from the peaks and ravines and is hurled
back by the precipices of the Purple Mountain. Again the
assault of sound is made on the Reeks, and repulsed from
the Purple Rocks ; and this conflict of sound goes on between
rock and rock, booming like a great piece of ordnance, until,
H3
Killarney (i)
THE UPPER LAKE.
1 1 4 GAP OF DUNLOE
gradually lowering its intensity, it drops into silence, and
leaves the sensation that it has not ceased but gone farther.
Before leaving the neighbourhood, we can visit the Logan
Stone, or “ balance rock,” as the peasantry term it.
Those who walk can take a short cut over the rocks, saving
the long detour made by the bridle-path on emerging from
the Gap.
At the end of the Gap we reach the Gearhameen, or Cum-
meeniuff River, a sullen stream issuing from Lough-na-bric-
W. Lawrence ,] [ Dublin .
SERPENT LAKE, GAP OF DUNLOE.
dearg (“ red trout lake ”), a dreary little tarn, circled by
overhanging rocks, at the further extremity of —
The Black Valley
(Cummeenduff Glen, or Coom-a-Dhuv). After a tumultuous
course of about half-a-dozen miles, during which it widens
into a few gloomy lakelets, the river falls into the head of
the Upper Lake. A detour up the Black Valley is well worth
the expenditure of time.
THE UPPER LAKE
US
Regaining the road, we follow the course of the river,
through what is still known as Lord Brandon’s Demesne,
though it has long since passed into other hands. A toll of
a shilling has to he paid. The road conducts us to a small
quay, where we find the boats are waiting and a welcome
luncheon is spread upon the lawn. In fine weather, the
rest for luncheon in this delightful spot is considered by
many the best part of the day. Embarking and rowing
down stream, we soon find ourselves on the bosom of —
The Upper Lake,
studded with elfin islands, and embraced by mountain-pbaks,
towering abrupt and dark to the sky, whilst their base is
clothed with foliage. Who can fail to admire the tranquil
surface of the waters that reflect all this magnificence, while
we wind in and out through the shade, and enjoy the delight
of gliding gently through the scene, viewing it under circum-
stances in which the mind can give all attention as the water
seems to pass along like some winding panorama, and we
ourselves to remain quiescent ? Seemingly land-locked, we
wonder where will be our exit, as each headland, rock and
mountain comes into view.
MacCarthy More’s Island is one of the first islands passed.
It is luxurious with evergreens, amongst which Lebanon
cedars thrive. Then comes Ronayne’s Island, where may be
had some of the finest views of the lake. Eagle Island is
reputed to have been at one time frequented by birds of that
description. Oak and Juniper Islands are so called from the
woods that cover them. Arbutus Island is clad with that
lovely shrub, growing here with marked luxuriance. Colman’s
Eye is the promontory which marks the extremity of the
Lower Lake, and shows where the strait called the Long
Range begins. Here there is a cluster of rocks of fantastic
form, and the guide will help us to trace resemblances to a
leg of mutton, a round of beef and many other things. Still
winding through scenes of loveliness, we float down a placid
stream, above whose wooded shores Tore Mountain rises
bold and majestic. There is a richness in the foliage and a
brightness in the light of these latitudes not elsewhere seen.
Fresh aspects of beauty appear as we proceed — the luxury
of woods and the sublimity of mountains repeating them-
selves, the clouds passing over the summits casting long
shadows on the waters. We soon reach —
1 16
THE EAGLES y NEST
The Eagles’ Nest,
a mountain justly celebrated for its echo. It has a height
of 1,100 feet, and is conical in form. The base is covered
with evergreens, and higher up the naked summit forms a
tremendous precipice, in the crevices of which eagles used to
build their nests. Here it is usual to land. The profusion
and size of the ferns will attract the visitor’s attention ; and
he will doubtless be desirous of evoking the famous echo.
W. Lawrence,] < L Dublin .
THE OLD WEIR BRIDGE.
From his station the bugler sounds a single note. At once
the echo responds ; and hill, glen and rock take up the
cadence. Then the bugler rings out a rapid succession of
notes, and instantly the mountains wail forth a flood of rich
harmony,
“ beautiful, but sadly sweet,
As when harp -strings and soft winds meet.
And breathe a low, unmeasured tone,
To mortal minstrelsy unknown,”
OLD WEIR BRIDGE
1 1 7
Again we glide along ; but the current grows swift, and
the noise of rushing waters is in our ears. Soon the —
Old Weir Bridge
is in sight. Our pilot grasps the helm with firmer hand ;
and the boatmen bend to their oars. Nearer we come to
the arch, the waves splashing and gurgling. Now the boat-
men give a stronger, firmer pull — another — the oars are
W. Lawrence ,] [ Dublin .
THE COLLEEN BAWN CAVES.
shipped, and like an arrow from the bow we shoot the rapid .
Scarcely have we recovered from the excitement ere we are
again in tranquil waters, the bugler’s mellow notes all but
speaking the dulcet words —
“ There is not in this wide world a valley so sweet
As the vale in whose bosom the bright waters meet.”
Old Weir Bridge serves to connect Dinish Island with the
mainland ; it consists of two arches, only one of which is
navigable. The spot is called, with Irish perversity, the
Meeting of the Waters, because here the waters part. The
118
THE EAGLES’ NEST MOUNTAIN.
DINISH ISLAND— MIDDLE LAKE
1 19
western channel debouches on the Bay of Glena ; the eastern,
that which we take, flows into the Middle or Muckross Lake.
The tourist lands on the richly wooded—
Dinish Island,
to see O’Sullivan’s Punch Bowl. Embowered in arbutus
groves, a pretty rustic Cottage has been built for the accom-
modation of visitors. Here we can take tea, or saunter
about and walk over to see Brickeen Island ; and further on,
across another bridge, then entering Muckross demesne, visit
the lakelet of Doolah and the old copper mines. The name
is properly Dine-iske (“ the beginning of the waters ”), but
the boatmen know it as Dinish Island. Again we embark,
this time on —
The Middle Lake,
also called Tore Lake and Muckross Lake. It also has its
wonderful echoes ; and there are creeks and caves along its
shores which the tourist will view with much interest. The
level of the water is 5 feet below that of the Upper Lake.
There are but four islands in it, against thirty in the Lower
Lake, and six in the Upper Lake. The curious and pic-
turesque Colleen Bawn Caves will interest those familiar with
Gerald Griffin’s story, The Colleen Bawn, upon which Bouci-
cault’s famous play was based. Perhaps the visitor would
do best to order his boat to coast the southern shore, where
the rocks and headlands are wildest and highest, and the
lake deepest.
Rowing up the lovely strait which separates Brickeen
Island from the Muckross demesne, and then entering Glena
Bay, we cross the Lower Lake, and land at the quay near
Ross Castle, where conveyances wait to take us to our
hotel.
Cyclists will thank us for adding a note to the effect that it is
quite possible to “ do ” the Gap by cycle, the only drawback being
the elimination of the boating excursion through the Long Range.
Cyclists, however, have the advantage of seeing the Gap in both
directions, an advantage far greater than would appear at first
sight. In fact, all tourists who can spare the day are recommended
to see the Purple Mountain and Carran Tual in the other direction,
especially in the afternoon, when the blackness of the Gap is in
strong relief against the sunshine on the mountain-top.
1 20 GLENFLESK
FIFTH DAY.
Glenflesk — Labig Owen and Druidical Remains at Lissivigeen
— Kenmare Demesne — Lord Kenmare’s West Park and
Demesne — Ross Island and the Deer Park.
The morning can be devoted to a run along Glenflesk ;
the afternoon to wandering about the demesne of Lord Ken-
mare, and, if time permit, taking another peep at Ross Castle
before bidding adieu to Killarney and its beautiful scenery.
KILLARNEY HOUSE
( The seat of the Earl of Kenmare).
GLENFLESK
Glenflesk
1 2 I
should be visited by every tourist ; it lies to the south-east
of the town. The most beautiful spots may easily be reached
from the railway station at Headford, eight miles from Kil-
larney ; but it is best to drive through the glen on an out-
side car, as in that way its features can be seen at leisure.
The glen is a richly-wooded valley through which the Flesk
carries the surplus waters of Lough Guittane into the Lower
Lake. Immense rocks project from either side of the glen,
and the little stream leaps impetuously in a series of cascades
over the barriers which obstruct its path. Filadown, the
most picturesque part, was long the retreat of a celebrated
outlaw, Owen MacCarthy ; his den, the Labig Owen, is a
small cavern about half-way up the Demon’s Cliff. Near the
upper entrance to the glen, on a commanding site, stand the
ruins of Killaha Castle, formerly the stronghold of the O’Dono-
ghues of the glens ; hard by are the remains of the old church.
The Druids’ Circles at Lissivigeen should be inspected ; and
we can also visit Flesk Castle, which stands on a picturesque,
wooded knoll round the base of which the river sweeps in
eddying currents. An extensive panoramic view of the
Middle and Lower Lakes may be enjoyed from the castle
terrace. The road home leads us past —
Lough Guittane,
or Kittane, a retired and spacious lake lying under the
shadows of Stpooma, a mountain 2,280 feet high. Both the
lake and the river which flows from it afford the angler good
sport ; the trout are more abundant and better flavoured
than those caught in the other lakes. Surrounded by barren
hills, gloomy glens and weird rocks, Guittane would any-
where, save in the vicinity of such superb contrast as the
waters of Tore and Leane provide, be considered a remarkable
lake.
We set out in the afternoon to visit—
Kenmare Demesne,
which, with its charming pleasure gardens and lovely sylvan
glades, Lord Kenmare has, with great liberality, thrown open
to the public. A magnificent mansion was built in 1880 on
an eminence a little to the north of the old one. It is a red-
brick Tudor structure, forming a conspicuous and pleasing
122
KEN MARE DEMESNE
object from all parts of Lough Leane. The demesne has
recently been considerably enlarged by the addition of the
West Park, extending for a considerable distance along the
northern shore of the lake. There are, in all parts of the
grounds, exquisite walks, with occasional flower-beds and
groves of rare shrubs and forest-trees, so disposed as to give
now and again choice prospects of the glancing lake and
towering mountains. The Deer Park should not be forgotten
by the visitor. Here all is wild and natural, and ferns and
flowers abound in its dells and glens. Here is a Druids’
altar, called by the natives Clough-na-Cuddy (“ Cuddy’s
stone ”), after, perhaps, the great chief of the Reeks, who
the guide will assure you cast it all the way here from
Carran Tual.
Keeping to the left, the visitor reaches a gate leading to
Ross Castle. From the battlement and windows a compre-
hensive view of the picturesque domain we have just left
may be obtained, the mansion appearing to very great
advantage.
THE SIXTH DAY.
The sixth day may be pleasantly occupied in many ways.
We may re-visit one or more of the scenes to which we have
already made excursions, but to which our haste has caused
us to pay too little attention. We may enjoy another row
on the Lower Lake or a walk through Lord Kenmare’s
demesne ; or may make our way to the shops at which
articles manufactured from bog-oak and the wood of the
arbutus are sold, in order to carry away souvenirs of our
visit to Killarney. Nor should we omit to devote an hour
to an inspection of the Cathedral. Or we may proceed by
rail to Cahirciveen and visit the island of Valentia. The
majority of tourists, however, combine this trip with the
popular tour round the Kerry Coast.
An excellent alternative can be proposed for those who
are fairly active. Take the Gap road as far as Kate Kearney’s,
where an excellent path turns up the mountain-side to the
left. This path is quite safe for the average pedestrian, and
offers one of the finest walks in Ireland. On the ridge-top
it degenerates a little, until it is little better than a sheep-
KILLARNEY
123
path, but it is always clearly defined. By and bye, the Black
Lake appears below on the left, and Cushvally follows. Here
the path begins to grow more definite and to descend gently
from the Purple Mountain to the road at the turnpike, where
the coach will be waiting the pedestrian. Possibly this un-
conventional tramp will give the tourist the best idea of the
Gap of Dunloe.
AN OUTSIDE CAR.
CYCLING AND MOTORING ROUTES.
N O place else can charm the eye of the tourist who loves
nature like “ Beauty’s Home, Killarney ” ; and this
picturesque locality has an additional charm for the wheel-
man by reason of the fact that the roads, generally speaking,
are very suitable for cycling. There are several establish-
ments in the town at which cycles can be hired. The cyclist
or motorist visiting Killarney usually starts from either
Dublin or Cork. The shortest route from Dublin would be : —
Dublin
to Killarney (Route I.).
Miles.
Miles.
Inchcore ....
3h
Thurles
87
Rathcoale ....
IO
Holy cross
9i
Kill
16
Dundrum
ioo
Naas
20
Tipperary
ioS
Newbridge ....
• 27
Knocklong
120
Kildare ....
• 32
Kilmallock ....
128
Monasterevan .
• 39
Charleville . . . . • .
134
Maryborough .
• 5i
Freemount ....
145
Abbeyleix ....
6i
Newmarket ....
152
Durrow ....
. 67
Boherboy
158
J ohnston ....
. 76
Killarney
I78J
This is the shortest
route, and good as regards roads,
but
possesses no other advantages.
Dublin to Killarney (Route II.).
The best route, however, would be : —
Dublin via Naas
20
Clonmel
. . . . 103
Old Kilcullen
. . . 29
Clogheen
. . . . 118
Athy ....
. . . 42
Fermoy
. . . . 137
Ballylinan .
• • • 45
Ballyhooly .
. . . . 142
Castlecomer .
• • • 59
Mallow .
. . . . 154
Kilkenny
. . . 72
Millstreet .
. . . . 173
Callan
... 82 1
Killarney .
. . . • 195
Glenbower .
. . . 93 1
124
CYCLING AND MOTORING ROUTES
125
Dublin to Cork.
The cyclist by Route II may, if he so desires, turn off at
Fermoy and travel on to Cork. The route then would be : —
Miles. Miles.
Fermoy to Rathcormac . 142 I Cork 159
Watergrass Hill . . . 155 |
Cork to Killarney.
The best routes from Cork to Killarney are : —
Carrigcrohane .... 4 Ballyvourney . . . -35
Coachford 16 Killarney 56
Macroom 25
Or leaving Macroom (25 miles from Cork), the road through
Toonesbridge, Inchigeela, the Pass of Keimaneigh (47 miles
from Cork), and on to Glengariff (60) may be taken. Ken-
mare (78), Killarney (99). This road has many steep descents
and dangerous turns.
The distances given in each case are, of course, the total
distance from the starting-point mentioned.
Killarney District.
Having arrived in Killarney, the cyclist can depend upon
good roads. The only thing necessary is to keep watch for
sharp turns and steep descents.
A much admired Circular Tour from Killarney is : —
Killarney to Windv Gap . 16
Cahirciveen ....
• 72
Kenmare
21
Glenbeigh ....
. 91
Parknasilla .
• 35
Caragh Lake
• 95
Sneem ....
• 38
Killorglin ....
. 99
Caherdaniel .
• 5i
Killarney ....
. 112
Waterville .
. *60
Or an alternative
route may be taken : —
Killarney to Beaufort
• • 5
Sneem
60
Bealalaw Bridge
. 19
Kenmare ....
• 77
Waterville .
• • 37
Killarney ....
. 99
Caherdaniel .
. . 47
If it is desired to
make Killarney the resting-place
each
night the following tours could be taken : —
Route I.
Killarney to Gap of Dunloe 10 I Windy Gap 30
Ownreagh Glen . . . 18 | Killarney 36
Care should be taken to keep on the proper road through
the Glen, as there are many crossings.
* A visit to* the Island of Valentia from Cahirciveen is worth
while. L There is a good road through the Island-
126 CYCLING AND MOTORING ROUTES
Route II.
Miles. Miles.
Killarney to Tore Water- | Enter Demesne to Dinis . io
fall 3 | On to Kenmare Road and
Return to Muckross Hotel. 4 | home to Killarney . . ij\
The road through Muckross Demesne is in some places
dangerous owing to its steep and winding character.
Route III.
Killarney to Ross
Castle 1^
Through Demesne to Lib-
rary Point . . . .2^
Back through Ross Island
and Demesne to Ma-
li ony’s Point . . . 9^
Killarney 12 1
This road is perfectly safe and good, except two descents
in Ross Island.
Route IV.
Killarney through Deer
Park 2\
On leaving park near race-
course, pass burial ground
and turn to the right
to Aghadoe . . . • 5|
On to Beniska Cross and
home to Killarney . . 8|
There is a dangerous hill in Deer Park, and also another
leading to Beniska Cross.
Killarney to Beaufort .
Lough Acoose .
Glencar
Caragh Lake
Route V.
6
1 7
19
27
Glencar Hotel
Gerah Cross
Windy Gap .
Killarney
29
40
48
64
The entire road after leaving Beaufort on to Killarney
requires care, as there are some sharp turns and steep descents.
Route VI.
Killarney to Kilbrean Wood 3!
Lacka Lake 4
Boghaghnamina (the mov-
ing bog) 10
Gneeveguilla
Headford
Killarney
12
15
21
This road is good, but care should be taken, owing to its
unprotected condition at the sides from Lacka Lake to
Headford.
Killarney to Killegy
Lough Guittane
Robbers’ Den .
Headfort
Killarney
Route VII.
2
6
9
12
. 18
Or from the Robbers’ Den
through Glenflesk to
Minish 13
Killarney 17
CYCLING AND MOTORING ROUTES
127
Route VIII.
Miles.
Miles.
Killarney to Ivillegy . . 2
Kilgarvan ....
16
Lough Guittane ... 6
Kenmare ....
22
Loo Bridge 10
Killarney ....
• 43
The road to Kenmare is good, but the road from Kenmare
to Killarney is steep and winding.
Route IX.
Killarney to Brennan’s Glen 7
Farranfore 10
Castle Island . . . . 15
Scartaglin through Gneeve-
guilla, Boghaghnamina,
and back to Killarney . 33
The road is fairly good, and the hills are not dangerous,
except the hill at Spa and Park, about three miles from
Killarney.
Route X.
Killarney to Killorglin
Milltown
Castlemaine .
10
13
16
Farranfore .
Ballyhar
Killarney
This road is also good, but care should be taken of
steep hills.
20
23
29
a few
Route XI.
Killarney to Flesk Cross . 1 Bridge 32-
Mills . . . . . . 2 Killarney 5
Flesk Castle .... 3
The road is very good, but the descent on the portion
between Flesk Castle and Bridge is dangerous.
The Cycling Club in Killarney contains members who are
ever ready to assist visiting cyclists in relation to most of
the short journeys.
128
W. Lawrence,] [Dublin.
AT VALENTIA.
ROUND THE COAST OF KERRY.
Killarney to Valentia Harbour by Rail — Cross to Valentia
Island by Ferry — Cahirciveen to Kenmare by Coach —
Kenmare to Killarney by Rail or Coach.
T HIS circular tour, by rail and coach, round the southern
promontory of county Kerry, can be accomplished in
two days, Parknasilla being the stopping-place for the night,
but three or four days, or even a week, would by no means
exhaust the beauties of the district. The excellent chain of
hotels belonging to the Great Southern and Western Railway
Company and others add considerably to the amenities of
the trip.
When about ten miles from Killarney, we change carriages
at Farranfore Junction.
Killorglin, at the mouth of the Laune, is twenty-four miles
by rail, and thirteen by road from Killarney.
A good road leads south-westward to Glencar (n miles),
which is, however, more often visited from Caragh Lake.
Another road runs right through the heart of the promontory
to Waterville (28 miles).
For twenty-six miles now our journey is chiefly along the
southern shore of the beautiful — y
Dingle Bay,
with, on the opposite side, a background of lofty hills, termi
nated in the far distance by the Brandon Mountain (3,127
feet). Dunmore Head, the bluff extremity of the northern
peninsula, is the most westerly land in Ireland — nearer
America than any point of the European shores. It is
surrounded by a number of rocky isles, the largest of which,
the Great Blasket, presents some lofty and steep cliffs to the
sea. These features of the northern coast of the bay will
attract attention successively as we make our way westward ;
Brandon is much in evidence as we leave Killorglin and at
other points on the journey. To the south are the peaks of
Killarney ( k ) 129
130
CARAGH LAKE— GLEN CAR
the high mountains which hem in Killarney, in ever-changing
and interesting combinations. About five miles from Killor-
glin we stop at the station for —
Caragh Lake
LHotel : Great Southern],
a beautiful sheet of water about six miles long and in places
a mile broad. Near the station is a fine hotel, under the
control of the Great Southern and Western Railway Company,
the white castellated tower of which, on the wooded shore of
the lake, attracts attention from the railway. The pretty
river Caragh, five miles long, connecting the lough with the
sea, is famous for salmon and trout. Indeed, all the streams
hereabouts are fishful. A salmon and trout hatchery has
been constructed in the hotel grounds. Good rough shooting
— grouse, woodcock, duck, etc. — can be had in plenty on the
neighbouring moors and mountains. There are golf links at
Dooks close by. Even Killarney cannot show anything
more beautiful than Caragh Lake, and it has the advantage
of being to a great extent virgin touring ground. Some de-
lightful trips can be had on the lake by means of the hotel
boats. A good short trip is to car or walk to Blackstones
Bridge, at the south end of the lake, and boat back. Or one
can continue southward from Blackstones by the riverside
track for another two miles or so to Glencar, where there is a
good hotel, much frequented by sportsmen. The surround-
ings of Glencar are in every way delightful, and the district
well deserves its growing popularity.
“ Here,” it has been well said, “ one may easily imagine himself
transferred to a lovely Swiss valley on a reduced scale. The high
ground where the hotel stands is nearly the centre of a great circle,
seven or eight miles in diameter, hemmed in by mountains of vary-
ing height, and apparently cut off from the outer world save by
the small pass by which we entered. About two and a half hours’
stay is allowed here, and the cars take us to the boat at Black-
stones Bridge, at the head of Lake Caragh. Instead of driving,
the visitor may y/alk by the river along the fisherman’s path, pass-
ing several rapids and large salmon pools, and through groves
of birch trees. The surroundings of Lickeen House, at the end of
the lake, rival the picturesque part of the Trossachs, but on a much
smaller scale — the same abundance of moss-covered birch trees,
quiet sylvan retreats, and glistening water everywhere meets the
eye. Rowing down the lake, on the way to Caragh railway station,
some very fine cliffs and headlands are passed, extending all along
the lake on,the east side, and the scenery is very varied and beau-
tiful as we approach the end of our journey.
W. Lawrence,] [ Dublin .
MOOR AND MOUNTAIN, GLENCAR.
W. Lawrence,]
BALLAGHBEAMA PASS.
[Dublin,
131
L32
GLENBEIGH
“ Cloon Lake, Upper and Lower, is a good fishing resort. The
upper end is encircled by high, storm-riven cliffs of solid stone ;
and on the bosom of the lower lake rests a small green island,
covered with rocks, heather, and low trees. In this solitude the
heron and the wood-pigeon build their nests side by side ; and on
the approach of man, the wild goat and the marten cat have been
seen swimming away to the mainland.”
Another noteworthy sheet of water in the- neighbourhood
of Glencar is Acoose Lake, near to which the high-road to
Killorglin passes. The mountaineer may humour his weak-
ness from Caragh or Glencar as much as he pleases, amongst
the peaks “ available ” being Carran Tual (3,414), more often
ascended from Killarney (see p. 96), and, for the less ambi-
tious, Gortnagloran (nearly 1,000 feet high) on the east side
of the lake. A series of driving and boating excursions has
been arranged from the Southern Hotel, Caragh Lake, at
fixed prices. The drive along the road to Waterville should
be taken at least as far as the Swiss-like Ballaghasheen Pass.
Another fine drive is by the road southward through the
Ballaghbeama Pass to Blackwater Bridge and Parknasilla
(22 miles). Yet another drive, a circular one, is round the
east side of Lough Caragh to Blackstones Bridge, then through
Windy Gap, with its fine frontward view, to Glenbeigh.
Glenbeigh
[Hotel : Headley Arms ]
is a promising little watering-place, with a good hotel, golf
links, and a fine strand for bathing. Glenbeigh takes its
name from its situation at the mouth of the river Beigh,
which rises some five miles south-westward in the stern crag-
surrounded loughs known as Coomasharn, Coomaglaslaw,
and Coomnacronia. Coomasharn is certainly worth a visit,
on account of the great precipices which overhang it. At
Glenbeigh a rug and carpet industry has recently been started.
Leaving Glenbeigh, the line ascends and comes quite close
to the coast, and we have superb views on the right of Dingle
Bay and its background of lofty mountains. We continue
to ascend, and at Mountain Stage (so named from its having
been the stage-house in the not very remote days of cars and
coaches) we are on a piece of genuine mountain railway, more
than 400 feet above the sea. The line presently turns inland
to Kells (a small hamlet merely, and not to be confused with
the several other Kells in Ireland). A long descent brings us
to —
133
CAHIRCIVEEN.
134
CAHIRCIVEEN
Cahirciveen.
Hotels. — Leslie's Railway, Royal, Webb's , etc.
Here tourists who are proceeding round the promontory
to Parknasilla, etc., change for the coaches, lunching usually
at Leslie’s Railway Hotel. The line, however, goes on some
three miles further to Valentia Harbour, the most westerly
railway station in Europe, whence those who are making
Valentia Island their headquarters for a time ferry across
(see p. 135).
Cahirciveen is interesting as the most westerly town in
the British Isles, and also from its connection with Daniel
O’Connell, the “ Liberator,” who spent his childhood at
Carhan House close by, now in ruins. The town is built at
the base of the Bentee (1,245 feet), and consists mainly of a
long street bordering the main road. The only public build-
ing of note is the O’Connell Memorial Church. The white
building in Scotch Baronial style, which shows up so pro-
minently as the train crosses the estuary, is the Police Barracks.
From near this spot a body of insurgents marched towards
Killarney during the Fenian rising of 1867.
Cahirciveen, though unimportant in itself, makes a good
centre for sportsmen, and even the ordinary tourist will find
plenty to occupy him in the numerous walks and drives
through the little known scenery of this rugged western
promontory. He can make his headquarters either here or
at Valentia Island. Among the interesting spots in the
neighbourhood are the ruins of Ballycarberry Castle, one of
the seats of the McCarthy-More, of which the O’Connells
were the hereditary constables. It is near Doulus Head, a
promontory to the north-west, separated from the town by
the mouth of the river. Near the castle is an ancient circular
fort, similar to Staigue Fort (see p. 142), but not so perfect.
The interior of one of the caves beneath Do.ulus Head is very
lofty, and bears some resemblance to that of a cathedral.
On Church Island, in Valentia Harbour, are the remains of
an early monastery, an oratory, and some beehive cells.
A mile and a half north-east of Cahirciveen are the few
remains of Carhan House, the old mansion of the O’Connell
family, said to have been the birthplace of the famous states-
man.
Within easy distance of the town are Coununa and Couno-
rowm, two pretty inlets of Dingle Bay, with small fishing
harbours.
VALENTI A ISLAND
135
Valentia Island.
Hotel. Royal , Knightstown.
Approach. —Rail to Valentia Harbour, thence Ferry ( 6d . each way) to Knights*
town, the principal village on the island.
The island is separated from the mainland by a strait about
half a mile wide, and is about six miles in length. It belongs
to the Knight of Kerry. Most of the inhabitants (about
2,000) live by the fisheries.
Formerly, owing to the lack of accommodation, visitors
were not numerous, but the opening of the excellent Royal
Hotel (under the same management as the Bay View at
Waterville) has rendered possible an enjoyable sojourn in
this little known and unconventional holiday resort. Bath-
ing, boating, and first-rate sea-fishing can be had, and the
cliff scenery is magnificent. As might be expected from its
westerly situation, the winter climate of the island is excep-
tionally mild. Cars can be hired at the Hotel at fixed rates
for the fine drive round the island, and for visits to various
places of interest. The proprietor of the hotel can secure
passes for the grounds of Glenleam and the Cable Station
(P- * 37 )-
The shores are indented with bays and cliffs, and guarded
by isolated rocks, against which the waves of the Atlantic
surge with uncontrolled fury. Bray Head, the most westerly
point, rises precipitously 792 feet above the sea, and from its
lofty crest we have a glorious view. Eight miles to the south,
the Skelligs loom like pyramids above the boundless ocean,
and all the islands in sight have an extraordinary and abrupt
outline — stern, yet picturesque. Northward we see Slea
Head and the Dingle Mountains, the Great Blasket, and
many lesser islands elevated over the surging waves ; some
that look like batteries and castles, others that appear like
Gothic houses. Inland, we behold the many-tinted inclines
of the Iveragh Mountains, with their wild, serrated ridges ;
and seaward, we gaze upon the mighty Atlantic, spreading
into a vast horizon that seems a wall of water.
The visitor should not leave without inspecting the light-
house and the monument to the memory of the late Knight
of Kerry, both of them built on wild and romantic elevations.
The lighthouse stands at Cromwell' s Fort, as the headland is
named, a reminiscence of the fact that Noll erected forts at
each end of the island, as well to safeguard the coast as to
prevent the captains of hostile privateers from using the
1 36 VALENTI A ISLAND
island and its harbour for the purposes of concealment. In
later years, the notorious American Commander Paul Jones
often availed himself of the protection afforded by the har-
bours and creeks hereabouts. At Glenleam, the seat of the
Knight of Kerry, are some gigantic fuchsias, one said to be
the largest in the world. The climate is so mild that the
THE ATLANTIC CABLE COMING ASHORE AT VALENTIA.
myrtle, arbutus, and several other tropical exotics flourish.
It is best to keep the lower road, round by the coast (about
fifteen miles in circuit), as the interior of the island is com-
paratively uninteresting.
Tourists staying at the hotel should take advantage of the
special facilities provided for an inspection of the Anglo-
THE SKELL 1 GS
1 37
American Telegraph Co.’s Cable Station. Others should
furnish themselves beforehand with an order from the Secre-
tary, at 2 6, Old Broad Street, London, E.C.
It will be remembered that the first Atlantic Cable began
to be laid on August 5, 1857, but six days later it snapped,
after three hundred miles had been paid out. A second
attempt failed through a violent storm, June 20, 1858.
Success awaited the third attempt, and on August 5 the first
messages passed between Queen Victoria and the President
of the United States. On September 4 this cable also failed,
after 271 messages had been transmitted, and it was not until
1865 that another was undertaken. That was cut in mid-
ocean, but another was successfully laid in July, 1866, and
the one of the previous year raised and finished.
A Trip to the Skelligs.
One of the most interesting excursions the tourist can
make, if the weather favours, is along the iron-bound coast
of Kerry, keeping as close under the land as safety will permit.
Apply to proprietor of Royal Hotel for particulars of trips
by steam launch. The voyager beholds a panorama of in-
describable magnificence. It is at the outer points and head-
lands that the grandest features of Kerry scenery are found,
and these are missed by the tourist who visits them only by
land. Leaving Cahirciveen, Knightstown, or Portmagee, as
the case may be, we are carried through the somewhat tortu-
ous navigation of the channel inside the island of Valentia,
crossing Foilhomurrum Bay. Our exit to the ocean is under
the massive and lofty cliffs of Portmagee ; and then we thread
our way through the Hog Islands — Puffin, the Lemon Rock,
the two Skelligs, Molans, and many others, remarkable for
their stern wildness. Some of the largest are wildernesses
of bog and rock, green with mosses, ferns, lichens, and low-
growing plants that require constant moisture for their
support ; but without a tree or shrub of any kind. The Calf
is the most southern of three remarkable rocks at the end of
the great peninsula stretching between Bantry Bay and
Kenmare. Two others are known as the Bull and Cow from
their supposed resemblance to those animals.
The Skelligs
are the best known of the islands hereabouts. With the
Lemon Island they form a group of lofty and widely de-
CAHIRCIVEEN TO PARKNASILLA
138
tached rocks, the largest of which — the Great Skellig— is
about nine miles from Bolus Head, the southern cape of
county Kerry, and some twelve to the south-west of Bray
Head. They are the favourite haunt of sea-birds, notably
gannets ; at times, indeed, they are nearly covered with
them. The larger island is an enormous mass of slaty rock,
divided, at the height of about fifty yards, into two pyra-
midal summits, the higher of which reaches an altitude of
some 700 feet ; the other is 100 feet lower. In early times
there was a monastery here, the ruins of which may still be
seen ; but the island was devastated by the Danes in 812,
and the monks were starved in their cells. Until recently,
the island was a place of penance, and was annually visited
by great numbers of devotees, who climbed the highest
summits, stopping at various stations and performing orisons
at each. Two lighthouses were erected on the island in 1826
and are connected by a road along the face of the cliff.
Cahirciveen to Parknasilla.
Outline of Route. — The drive from Cahirciveen to Park-
nasilla and Kenmare is “ worked ” by a line of well-horsed
four-in-hand coaches. Cahirciveen is usually left about 1.30,
after luncheon, and the coach arrives at Waterville about 3.0.
Those who desire can remain here and resume the journey
when it suits them. (Tickets are available for two calendar
months.) Others go on to Parknasilla, which is reached about
7.0. Here a halt is called for the night, and at 10 a.m. the
coach goes on to Kenmare, arriving about 12.0, in ample time
to catch the connecting coach to either Killarney or Glen-
gariff. The hotels at Cahirciveen, Waterville, Parknasilla
and .Kenmare are all that could be desired.
The coach-drive along the western and southern coasts of
county Kerry is extremely pleasant. At first the road runs
inland, not far from the foot of the lofty hills which hem in
the outlook on the left ; and for some half-dozen miles it
possesses few features of interest. At a distance of seven
miles, we again reach the sea, and cross the Inny, a consider-
able stream which drains a large district to the east and falls
into Ballinskelligs Bay. The road is carried over the river
near its mouth ; and another mile or more brings us to
Waterville, which stands on a narrow isthmus between
Ballinskelligs Bay and Lough Currane, the second largest
lake in county Kerry.
IV ATERVILLE— LOUGH CURRANE 139
Waterville.
Hotels. — Bay View , Butler's Arms , Great Southern, etc.
Hire of Boats. —Boat and one man, is. hour,^ 5 s. day. Two men, 2 s. hour, 10s.
day.
The village, which bids fair shortly to become a town, is
largely resorted to by anglers, who find good sport in the
lough and in the many streams and lakes in the neighbour-
hood. Fishing is, for the most part, free ; salmon and brown
and white trout are plentiful. The first object to arrest
attention on entering the place (close to the Bay View Hotel)
is a handsome stone fountain erected to the memory of
James Butler. Here is the junction with another road
which comes directly through the mountains from Killarney,
thirty-seven miles distant to the north-east, passing attrac-
tive Glencar on the way ( see p. 130). The village is a tempting
place of sojourn, commanding magnificent views of the
Atlantic on the one hand, and of the mountains on the other ;
and it is within three minutes’ walk of Lough Currane.
There is excellent sea bathing, the sands being level for a
considerable distance from the shore, and one of the prettiest
golf courses in Ireland. The salmon hatchery is also worth
a visit. Here, also, the Commercial Cable Company land two
of their cables— the latest completed in 1894 ; and their
station, with the houses of the officials, is quite a feature of
the village. The instrument rooms and so forth may be
inspected on application. Two other cables connect France,
near Havre, and England, near Weston-super-Mare, with this
point. Moreover, at Ballinskelligs, across the bay, directly
opposite Waterville, the station of the United States Cable
Company may be seen. The village is clustered on the banks
of the little river, a few hundred yards in length, which carries
into the bay the surplus water of —
Lough Currane,
about eight miles in circumference, and second only in point
of size in Kerry to the Lower Lake at Killarney. Its surface
is broken by numerous islets, on the largest of which, Church
Island, are the ruins of a beehive oratory, built by St. Finian
Cam, a holy man of the sixth century. The lake is fed by
the river Cummaragh, which conveys into it the overflow of
Loughs Derriana and Cloonaghlin and of other mountain
1 4 o
DERRYNANE
tarns, and by a smaller stream, connecting Lough Coppal or
Isknagahiny with it. All these lakes can and should be
visited from Waterville. The streams and lakes in the dis-
trict abound in trout, and salmon may be taken in Lough
Currane.
Leaving Waterville, and crossing the bridge at its southern
end, we enter on the most interesting section of the drive.
Our road at first winds upwards, till at Coomakista Pass it is
700 feet above the sea. We get charming views of the moun-
tains on the left, and of the almost circular bay, with its
numberless islands, on the right. In about a mile we pass,
on the left, the ruined Templenakilla Church. Driving on
for about five miles, our road descends to the sea on the
shore of Derrynane Bay, a small inlet of the Atlantic separ-
ated from Ballinskelligs Bay by Hog’s Head and from the
Kenmare estuary by Lamb Head, the most southerly cape of
county Kerry. In Derrynane Bay are Scariff Island and
many other rocky islets. On our right, close to the road
leading to Caherdaniel, is a circular fort in remarkably good
preservation. On the shore of the bay is —
Derrynane,
noteworthy as the home of Daniel O’Connell, and now occu-
pied by his descendants. It is an irregular pile of buildings,
partly castellated, and the grounds improved with shrub-
beries and plantations, so far as the situation, so much
exposed to westerly gales, will allow. The chapel in the
building and some interesting relics can be seen by the cour-
tesy of the proprietor. The ruins of Derrynane Abbey stand
on a peninsula, which at spring-tides becomes isolated.
Though the monastery is said to have been founded in the
seventh century by the monks of St. Fin Barre, the remains
are not older than the thirteenth. Here is the family grave
of the O’Connells, but “ the great agitator’s ” remains repose
beneath a lofty round tower in the Glasnevin Cemetery at
Dublin. Close to Derrynane is a small, but snug, harbour,
with a diminutive quay at which vessels of two hundred tons
burthen may discharge their cargoes. Near Caherdaniel,
the adjoining hamlet, is a small stone fort. We presently
reach West Cove, on the northern shore of the Kenmare
estuary, and then Castle Cove. A mile and a half up the
valley on the left is —
141
THE LOO RIVER NEAR KENMARE,
KEN MARE RIVER— SNEEM
142
Staigue Fort,
one of the most perfect antiquities of Ireland, supposed to be
at least 2,000 years old.
Kenmare River,
or Bay, as it is variously named, is an inlet of the Atlantic
penetrating the land for some thirty miles ; it is five or six
miles across at its widest part. If is generally voted the most
beautiful of the bays which indent the shores of the Emerald
Isle, though some are disposed' to give, the preference to
Bantry Bay, further south. A writer in Freeman's Journal
thus describes the fiord : —
“The bounding peninsulas are crowded mountain lands. Along
the’southern peninsula stretch the Caha and Slieve Miskish ranges,
the summits of which form a varied chain, towering peak on peak,
down to Dursey Island. They are in full view of the tourist as he
drives along the northern shore. Now they catch the mists that
come up from the Atlantic, and creep along the mountain sides ;
and when the sun bursts through and disperses the shades, nothing
can excel the wonder of the transformation. Cradled in the hills
are high mountain lakes, occasionally drained by cascades, which
flash in the sunlight as they descend down to the sea that breaks
in silver foam almost at the feet of the mountains.
“ The coastline of the ‘ river,’ as it is named, is broken into
numberless islands, some of them arable and inhabited, others mere
spots of red sandstone rising out of the fjord ; their surface covered,
wherever the smallest shelter is afforded, with a profusion of vege-
tation, dwarf oaks, dark-green hollies, bright green ash, and the
special favourites of the region, brilliant fuchsias, which are here
and there along the coast as common almost as the whitethorn in
inland hedgerows.”
As we proceed, a grand and everchanging panorama of the
hills which on the other side of the bay separate the counties
of Kerry and Cork presents itself ; and a still grander one of
the high mountains round Killarney is unfolded on the left.
Perhaps the most charming of the landscapes is that of the
valley leading up to Coomcallee, a sharp and precipitous
mountain, more than two thousand feet high, with a pretty
lake lying at its foot. The view i^Sobtained at the junction
of another road with that along which we are driving, as we
approach our next halting place, Sneem, the chief village in
the extensive parish of Killcrohane', through which we have
been travelling ever since we left Darryrtane. Sneem is
prettily situated at the head of an estuary formed by the
Sneem river and two or three mountain streamlets. It cou-
AT PARKNASILLA.
144
PARKNASILLA
tains a Roman Catholic Church with a curious campanile, a
Protestant Church, and a comfortable inn (Sheehan' s).
Our road now turns to the south-east, and two miles from
Sneem we reach that health resort of the south-west, lovely —
Parknasilla.
In the demesne, formerly the residence of the Bishop of
Limerick, has been erected a tasteful and commodious hotel
(under the control of the Great Southern and Western Rail-
way Co.), to accommodate the tourists who in increasing
numbers are making this place their headquarters. It is
usual to stop at Parknasilla for the night, and the unhurried
tourist is likely to remain longer. There are really two hotels
in different parts of the grounds, the original residence and
the fine new building. The grounds cover about a hundred
acres, and include several islets connected by rustic bridges.
The situation of Parknasilla is delightful. It stands in a
nook between the bay and Knockanamadane Hill (895 feet),
with wooded hills rising all around, the romantic, broken
coast studded with little tree-covered islets. Mr. Ward calls
it “ one of a little group of marine paradises on an inlet of the
great sea lough,” and frankly owns that “ to describe the
beauty of the spot is beyond us.” On the important subject
of climate a writer in the Dublin Journal of Medical Science
says of Parknasilla : —
“ Its well-sheltered position amidst a number of islets, thickly
wooded down to the water’s edge, has endowed it with unique
advantages. This protective area prevents the access of all winds
except those coming from the warmer points, viz., south and south-
west ; these winds, before reaching the southern coast of Ireland,
having travelled over the Gulf Stream, and being thus subjected
to its moderating and balmy influence.
“ Mountain protection is of supreme importance in the choice of
a health-resort, more especially in the winter and spring seasons of
the year. In this regard Parknasilla is exceptionally favoured, a
mountainous range closely guarding and protecting it from the
northerly and easterly winds. The combination of mountain, wood
and water gives a special charm to this locality ; and a convincing
evidence of the mildness of the winter and early spring here is the
forward character of the vegetation, the early budding of the trees,
shrubs and flowers.
“ The position of this favoured and sheltered sea inlet upon the
isothermal map shows it to have a mean annual temperature of
52 degrees, being similar in this regard to its neighbour, Glengariff,
and registering a higher mean annual temperature than Ventnor
or Torquay. The mildness of the climate in the earlier spring
months is of such a character that exercise can be freely partaken
PARKNASILLA
145
of in the open air daily, without risk of chill ; and this to the
invalid is of paramount importance. To sufferers from chronic or
recurrent affections of the respiratory organs, Parknasilla, in the
winter and early spring months, would appear to be indicated as
a mostMesirable place of residence.”
Little footbridges span the clear channels between the
demesne and many of the islets, affording charming walks.
To the west, reached by fifteen minutes’ pull across the mouth
of the Sneem river, is the exquisitely-wooded Garinish Island,
the property of the Earl of Dunraven. The island has an
Killarney {l) 145
W . Lawrence,']
BLACKWATER BRIDGE.
[Dublin.
146
PARKNASILLA TO KEN MARE
area of fifty-eight acres. Boating, bathing, fishing, and
mountain-climbing may all be enjoyed to perfection in this
favoured locality. The adventurous may row or sail right
across the bay to Derreen, the seat of the Marquis of Lans-
downe. Derreen would make just such another delightful
haven for the holiday-maker as Parknasilla or Glengariff, but
his lordship will not permit the erection of a hotel.
Parknasilla to Kenmare.
The coach leaves Parknasilla about io.o a.m. for the
remaining fifteen miles’ drive to Kenmare. The road lies
high above, but close to, the sea. We pass the head of
Coongar Harbour, which is sheltered by Rossmore Island,
one of the largest in the estuary. The best part of the drive
is reached at a distance of six miles as we descend the wooded
slopes to the Blackwater, one of the many rivers of that name
in Ireland, and distinguished from others as the “ Kerry ”
Blackwater. It runs merrily along, between banks so high
that the two-arched bridge by which we cross is quite 60 feet
above the surface of the water. The coach stops for a few
minutes to allow passengers to pass beneath the bridge, an
opportunity which none should neglect. The stream tumbles
over numerous rocks and forms many pretty cascades in its
course to Kenmare Bay — now so rapidly narrowing as to be
scarcely two miles across. But before mingling its fresh
water with the briny waves of the sea, the Blackwater again
expands and forms a snug little harbour, useful to small
coasting vessels. The Blackwater is famous for salmon.
There is a carriage-road from Blackwater Bridge, via
the Gap of Ballaghbeama, to Glencar (15^ miles, or from
Parknasilla, 22). This road, a great part of which is com-
paratively new, is the one referred to on p. 132. A mile or
two to the west are the pretty Cloone Lakes. Near the
bridg3 over the Blackwater is the Castle of Dromore, a Gothic
building, with beautiful grounds in which are the ruins of
Cappanacuss Castle. The road passes Lough Brinn, near
which a road (which may be traversed by an outside car but
is not practicable for carriages) turns off to the Upper Lake
of Killarney and the Gap of Dunloe. Just off the coast are
the Greenan and the Dunkerron Islands, the former chain
joined to the shore at low water. Three miles from the
bridge we pass the ruins of Dunkerron Castle, like Cappa-
nacuss once a seat of the O’Sullivans.
KEN MARE
147
Kenmare.
Hotels. — Southern and Lansdowne Arms.
Places of Worship, with the hours at which the Sunday services commence : —
Church of Ireland — 12.0 | Roman Catholic — 8.30 and 12.0.
Station. — Terminus of branch line from Killarney.
Kenmare is a fairly prosperous market town, at the head
of the beautiful estuary to which it gives its name ; or,
rather, from which it receives its name, for, according to Dr.
Joyce, Kenmare signifies “ head of the sea.” The town is
chiefly interesting to tourists from its position as a kind of
coaching junction, being the half-way place between Glen-
gariff and Killarney, and the terminus of the Kerry coast
tour. It also possesses a lively interest from the fact that it
is the halting-place for luncheon, for which, after a long
mountain drive, most passengers are more than ready.
Whether the Southern or the less pretentious Lansdowne be
patronised, good value is given. Kenmare was originally
known as Nedeen, and owes its existence to Sir William
Petty, the ancestor of the Marquis of Lansdowne, the prin-
cipal owner of the land hereabouts. Petty, having obtained
a grant of land, planted a colony of Englishmen here in 1670.
They established' a fishery and iron works on an extensive
scale ; but were harrassed by the Irish, and surrendering,
after some resistance, were allowed to embark for Bristol,
scantily supplied with provisions. On the conquest of Ire-
land by William III, the colony was re-established and the
fishery resumed ; but the forests were soon exhausted, and
the iron trade declined through want of fuel.
To-day, Kenmare consists of a main street, leading from
the market square, with a few others diverging from it.
There is a good pier a little to the west of the town ; and the
bay is crossed by the Lansdowne Suspension Bridge, the first
structure of the kind in Ireland. It forms a striking object
in the landscape. The Catholic Church is a spacious edifice,
with a lofty spire, and is handsomely decorated, thanks to the
munificence of the Marquis of Lansdowne and others. The
adjoining Convent of Poor Clares is, however, the most im-
portant feature of the town, and should be seen by all who
have the time. Specimens of the famous Kenmare lace, made
at the convent, can be seen and bought at the hotels, but no
one will regret visiting the institution itself. It is wonderful
to see how the devoted nuns^succeed in training their young
pupils. Even the mere man will marvel at the delicacy and
148 KEN MARE TO KILLARNEY BY RAIL
beauty of the designs. Some of the lace is valued at its weight
in gold. It won the first place in the South Kensington com-
petition of 1886, and has held its own at other exhibitions —
notably at the Chicago World’s Fair in 1893. The girls also
excel in singing. The convent is a handsome building, in a
cheerful sunny situation, surrounded with shrubberies and
flower-beds, and adorned with some marble statues.
Kenmare to Killarney.
Many visitors prefer to take the coach, which runs daily
from Kenmare to Killarney, rather than the train. The
coach drive, part of the famous Prince of Wales Route, is
described the reverse way on pp. 149-152. We will therefore
here assume that travellers to Killarney avail themselves of the
branch railway via Headford — one of those commenced in
1891 by the aid of a grant from the British Government. It
was opened in September, 1892, and is about twenty miles
long, joining the Killarney and Tralee Railway at Headford
Junction, the station next to Killarney. The line runs
through a winding valley, bounded on both sides by rugged
and barren mountains, which extend for miles in each direc-
tion. The student of geology will be interested by the
abundant evidences of glacial action. The first station is at
Kilgarvan, where the road to Macroom continues eastward,
while the line turns northward. Another road runs south-
ward to Bantry, crossing the Slaheny, and passing near Lough
Nambrackderg on the way.
Leaving Kilgarvan, the line runs through fine scenery,
along the course of the Loo river, a feeder of the Flesk.
There are stations at Morley’s Bridge and Loo Bridge. We
have Mangerton ( see p. 93) very much in evidence on the
left all the way. After crossing the Flesk, we arrive at
Headford Junction, where carriages are changed for Kil-
larney.
KILLARNEY TO CORK,
BY THE PRINCE OF WALES ROUTE.
Killarney to Kenmare by Coach or Rail — Kenmare to Glen-
gariff by Coach (stay for night) — Glengariff to Bantry,
by Coach or Steamer — Bantry to Cork, by Cork, Bandon
and South Coast Railway.
OURISTS who have come to Killarney direct by rail
via Mallow, should make a point of returning via Glen-
gariff and Cork, thus completing a delightful circular tour.
There are now two ways of doing this, (i) By the popular
Prince of Wales Route described below, and (2) by what is
known as the Tourists’ i\ Route, vid\ Macroom, described in
the next chapter. Whichever route is chosen, the journey
is the same from Killarney to Glengariff. Of course both
routes are available also for the journey in the reverse direc-
tion from Cork to Killarney, as indicated on pp. 7-8.
The coach drive from Killarney to Glengariff is one of the
finest in the three kingdoms. A start is made from New
Street about 9.30 a.m„, the coach calling at the principal
hotels before finally getting under way. When the Muck-
ross Hotel at the pretty village of Cloghereen is reached, a
halt is called for the examination of tickets. We drive past
the entrance to the Tore Cascade, and commence the long
ascent. At almost every point scenes of the greatest beauty
present themselves. The wealth of foliage — fir, beech, ash,
oak, arbutus, holly — and the profusion of ferns of all sizes
and sorts form a marked contrast to the bare mountain
heights and moorland wastes that are shortly to be passed.
It has well been said, “ The mingling of soft foliage and bare
rocks is a delightful feature of Irish scenery, and seems to
carry out faithfully the wildness and tenderness, the poverty
and refinement of the people.” Farther on, the Long Range
is passed, and magnificent views of the Eagles’ Nest, Purple
Mountain, Glena Bay, and Derrycunnihy Cascade can be
obtained. To the left the lofty Tore Mountain and Manger-
149
150 THE PRINCE OF WALES ROUTE
ton tower above us. We presently reach the tunnel shown
in our illustration on p. 91. At Mulgrave Police Barracks
the tourist bids farewell to the lakes. “ No description/’ it
has been well said, “ can convey any adequate idea of the
loveliness of the scene which presents itself from this spot ;
looking back towards Killarney the eye beholds a deep and
wondrous valley, in the bosom of which the whole of the three
lakes lie like sheets of silver. Mr. Justin PI. McCarthy thus
eloquently described his impressions of Killarney, evidently
with this scene in his mind : —
“ I know of lovely lakes elsewhere ; I know of none more lovely
than Killarney. I am not sure that I can say that I know of any
quite as lovely, with the peculiar, haunting loveliness of the Irish
lakes. The spirits of the mist seem to brood over those beautiful
waters, softening with their caresses all forms and colours into the
rarest, into the finest harmony, suffusing them with a liquid light
that is at times almost unearthly in its beauty. These wooded hills,
where still — or is that a legend and a dream ? — the red deer lingers,
those great sheets of water that change their mood and their aspect
with every changing hour, and are always beautiful, steep the mind
of the beholder in a sensuous delight that is hard to describe in
words. To me the lakes, like all beautiful scenes in nature, look
their best in the splendour of a summer’s day, when the waters are
very still, when the woods are hushed in the heat, when the spell
of the golden sunlight is upon everything. Then Killarney is an
earthly paradise, then the youth of the world seems to have re-
turned. But on dark days when storm is threatening, or in those
hours when the threatened storm breaks and the water blackens
under the rain and races into great waves before the wind, then,
too, Killarney is beautiful with a beauty that is wild but not terrible.
Killarney’ s woods and waters may inspire awe when the thunder
is rumbling among the hollows of the hills and the lightning is
cutting slices out of the livid sky, but it never inspires terror. Its
angers are the hot furies of a friend, not the forbidding wraths of
an enemy. In storm or in sunshine, there is a charm about the
place that is all its own, a charm that it would be worth while to
travel thousands of miles to experience and to appreciate.”
The scenery now becomes more wild and rugged. “ Some-
times the road borders precipices of frightful depth over-
looking glens and valleys that spread away as far as the eye
can reach ; streams are passed that dash down the rocks in
sheets of foam, and valleys that look wildly desolate because
of the great stones that strew them.”
At Windy Gap we have a fine view northward of Macgilly-
cuddy’s Reeks, the prominent hollow so conspicuous being
the Gap of Dunloe. Loosecaunaugh Lough, a mile-long sheet
of water, marks the half-way stage to Kenmare, and we pull
THE PRINCE OF WALES ROUTE 15 1
up at a wayside inn while the horses are watered. In a couple
of miles a road runs off westward to Sneem and Parknasilla
(13 miles), but we turn southward, winding round the moun-
R. Welch,] [ Belfast .
FALLS IN SHEEN VALLEY, KENMARE.
tains by the long descent to Kenmare (see p. 147), where a
halt is called for luncheon at either the Great Southern Hotel
or the Lansdowne Arms. Dainty specimens of the beautiful
152 KEN MARE TO GLENGARIFF
Kenmare lace are generally exhibited at the hotels, but those
with time to spare will do well to go on to the Convent.
Resuming the journey, we cross the estuary by the pretty
Suspension Bridge. The road which bears off westward
down the river leads in about eight miles to a pretty chain
of lakes well worth visiting by those who are staying at
Kenmare, and known as the Clonee Loughs. We, however,
follow the course of the Sheen river southward, the road
steadily ascending the Caha Mountains, said to contain three
R. Welch,] [Belfast.
THE GREAT TUNNEL ON THE KENMARE ROAD.
hundred and sixty-five lakes, or one for each day in the year.
The ranges around Killarney gradually become more and
more indistinct in the distance. Near the summit of the
ridge ahead we get a glimpse of the series of Tunnels by which
the road penetrates the mountain. The first tunnels are in-
significant, but at a height of 1,200 feet we plunge into a
much longer one, the length of which can be judged from
the illustration above. On emerging into daylight again,
we have quitted the county of Kerry and are in Cork. A
halt is made by some poor wayside cabins while the horses
are watered. The prospect ahead is very fine, showing all
GLENGARIFF
153
the mountains grouped about the head of Bantry Bay, to-
wards which we now descend, great valleys, with here and
there a mountain tarn, stretching away on either hand. The
prominent height to the right is the Sugarloaf. Presently a
glimpse is caught of the sparkling sea, and the driver points
out, far below, the village of Glengariff, almost buried in
foliage. But though the actual distance to the Glen is only
five or six miles, it takes no little time to get down, the steep-
ness of the mountain and the windings of the road necessi-
tating a constant application of the brake. It is a remarkable
tribute to the carefulness and competence of the drivers on
this route that not a single accident has happened since it has
been opened for tourist traffic. The driver will point out
Lord Bantry' s Shooting Lodge some distance away on the right,
and ahead the tourist will see for himself the noble expanse
of Bantry Bay, and the island-dotted harbour of Glengariff.
Note Contributed by Correspondent (we have not personally tested
this divergence. Ed.). — Between Kenmare and Glengariff is the
best mountain view in the south of Ireland, but as it lies apart from
the coach-road it is apt to be overlooked. Seven and a half miles
from Kenmare the coach passes a Roman Catholic chapel. If time
permits, the tourist, would do well to dismount and take the road
which leads to the left, following it until it conies, by rather a bad
surface, to the very top of the hill which divides the Kenmare
valley from the Glengariff valley. Excepting the last portion —
about one hundred yards — the road is a gentle incline and is quite
negotiable by easy walkers. From the top is the best view of the
whole of the mountains of Kerry- — the Sugarloaf being most pro
minent. They lie, an enormous panorama in brilliant purple, at
one’s feet. Southward is beautiful Glengariff — the village being
three miles of rather hard descent from the summit, the whole
distance from the Chapel to Glengariff being about 4! miles. The
walker will miss portions of the coach-road, especially that which
includes the long tunnel, but he will be more than repaid by one
of the best views of mountain, valley and sea which can be obtained
anywhere. In actual distance, this road is somewhat shorter than
the coach route (say 12^ miles against 18 miles).
Glengariff.
Hotels. — For Tariffs see Introduction. As the traveller is in any case bound to
stay at least a night at Glengariff, and Saturday arrivals must remain until
Monday morning, the subject of hotel accommodation is one of some im-
portance.
The Eccles is close to the shore at the head of the bay. It is a comfort-
able establishment, surrounded by lovely grounds, and conveniently
situated for water trips. It has the advantage of possessing an excellent
library. Coming from Kenmare it is the first hotel called at, but the last in
the reverse direction from Bantry.
Roche's is about a mile from the Eccles, and is the first hotel reached in
coming from Bantry. It stands on higher ground than the Eccles , and its
mountain view, with three pyramid-like peaks for background, is superb.
1 54
GLENGA RIFF
The grounds are very extensive, and a path leads down the hill and through
a pretty wood to the water.
The Belle Vue is about midway between the other two, and is a less
expensive establishment.
There are two or three lodging-houses in the village where apartments
can be had.
During the height of the season it is as well to write or wire beforehand
to the hotel of one’s choice, as the accommodation is sometimes severely
taxed.
Post Office, in village, about 200 yards west of Eccles Hotel.
Steamers to Bantry daily in connection with trains and coaches.
Heights of Mountains near Glengariff : — -
Sugar Loaf . . . 1,887 feet. I Hungry Hill . . . 2,251 feet.
Cobduff .... 1,244 „ j Shrone Hill . . . 919 „
“ Language utterly fails,” declares Mr. S. C. Hall, “ to
convey even a limited idea of the exceeding beauty of Glen-
gariff, which merits to the full the enthusiastic praise that
has been lavished upon it by every traveller by whom it has
been visited. It is a deep Alpine valley, enclosed by pre-
cipitous hills, about three miles in length, and seldom exceed-
ing a quarter of a mile in breadth. Black and savage rocks
embosom, as it were, a scene of surpassing loveliness, endowed
by nature with the richest gifts of wood and water ; for the
trees are graceful in form, luxuriant in foliage, and varied in
character, and the rippling stream, the strong river, and the
foaming cataract are supplied from a thousand rills collected
in the mountains. Beyond all, is the magnificent bay, with
its numerous islands, by one of which it is so guarded and
sheltered as to receive the aspect of a serene lake. The artist
cannot do it justice, and the pen must be laid aside in de-
spair.”
In the glen itself the sternest grandeur is softened by the
tenderest loveliness. “ Mountains are rent and rifted as if
some convulsion of nature had shaken and torn them, up-
heaving their strata and serrating their wild summits, whilst
their bases repose in woods and meadows of the softest ver-
dure. Peaks rise above peaks lofty and bald, merging their
frowning rocks in the shifting Atlantic mists ; beneath are
smiling valleys, gemmed with myriads of flowers.”
“ Were such a bay lying upon English shores,” said Thack-
eray, in often quoted words, “ it would be a world’s wonder.”
It is that now, and it is perhaps just as well that the Glen,
as the local people affectionately call it, does not lie upon
English shores, or its charm would probably have been spoilt
long ago. As an American writer put it, “ What appears
chiefly to impress the mind in this secluded region is the deep
GLENGA RIFF
155
conviction that there is no dramatic effect in all you behold ;
no pleasing illusion of art, that it is nature you contemplate,
such as she is, in all her wildness, and all her beauty.” The
charm of Glengariff is due first of all to its exquisite com-
bination of water, woodland, and mountain, and secondly to
its air of soft seclusion and tranquillity. So peaceful and
quiet is the scene that a shout, or even laughter, seems a
desecration of Nature.
W. Lawrence ,] [ Dublin .
AT GLENGARIFF.
Glengariff, “ the Rough Glen,” is sixty-nine miles from
Cork, and thirty-eight from Killarney, and, as its name
implies, is a deep Alpine valley, about six miles in length
and a quarter in breadth. The hills enclosing it are of the
wildest description, singularly broken and irregular in their
outline. Rocks and stones, some of enormous dimensions,
are flung together in strange confusion, but the roughness
is relieved by a variety of luxuriant foliage ; for the bases of
GLENGARIFF
156
the hills and every crevice and hollow are filled with trees
and shrubs which grow to great perfection. The arbutus,
the yew, and the holly seem native to the place, as also many
American and tropical cryptogamia and flowering plants.
The glen is surrounded on the north, east, and west by moun-
tains, and is thus effectually sheltered from easterly, north-
erly, and north-westerly winds. It opens southward on to a
lovely inlet of Bantry Bay, and the breezes which reach it
from this quarter have all been tempered by the Gulf Stream.
The air is consequently genial and soft, without being ener-
vating or relaxing. During the winter the thermometer in
the sun occasionally reaches 83°, and seldom falls below 40°.
An overcoat is rarely wanted ; and there is an absence of
fogs which renders the place peculiarly suitable for persons
suffering from consumption, chronic catarrh, and other
pulmonary diseases. The genial nature of the climate is
evidenced by the almost tropical luxuriance of the vege-
tation.
The village itself is small. It is, in fact, more in accord-
ance with the fitness of things to describe the village as being
near the Eccles Hotel, than to say that the Eccles Hotel is near
the village. The Protestant Church is a modern building,
with a comfortable glebe house attached, picturesquely
situated over one of the inlets of the bay. The new Roman
Catholic Church replaces a plain unsightly structure that was
out of character with the beauty of the place.
Recognising the futility of all verbal descriptions of Glen-
gariff, and indeed of most photographic ones, we hasten to
indicate three charming View Points, which will enable
readers to judge for themselves.
(1) From Roches Hotel follow the main road towards Bantry
for about a mile. You pass the lodge gates of Glengariff Castle,
and shortly notice a turning on the right, running off at a tangent
and leading down a slope, a small sand quarry being noticeable a
little way down in the wooded bank above. At the bottom of the
slope turn rightward, across somewhat flat ground, towards the
water. Above, to the right, is a steep knoll. A scramble over the
rough boulders and through the bracken brings one to the top.
Be careful to go as far as possible towards the water, as the view
from the edge of the cliff is much more comprehensive. This look-
out is called O’Leary’s Point, and, though little known, commands
the best view of the glen in its entirety. Below there is the horse-
shoe-like lake or harbour, dotted with small islands, upon one of
which a martello tower is conspicuous. If a few yachts are about,
so much the better for the picture. From the edge of the water,
on all sides save one, rises a sloping belt of foliage, pretty Glengariff
GLENGARIFF
15 7
Castle, a private residence, being conspicuous in the midst of it.
The one side that is not girdled by woodland shows a stretch of
open sea, with Whiddy Island in the distance. The woodland is
succeeded by bare mountain slopes, crowned by the sharply-defined
peaks of the Sugar Loaf , Throne Hill , or the Little Sugar Loaf, and
the Gowlbeg Mountain. Further westward is Hungry Hill. The
green peak behind us is Cobduff (the ascent is easy, and the way
obvious from the high-road). We have no hesitation in declaring
that this view, seen under favourable circumstances, is hardly to
be beaten in the British Isles.
(2) From the Eccles Hotel, walk through the village to the turn-
ing on the left which crosses the stream just beyond Cromwell’s
Bridge ( see below). A few yards from the stream is a gateway on
the right, opening on to a cart-track. Follow this as it winds for
a mile or more, steadily uphill, until near another gate, when a
rough path will be seen leading up the steep crag to the left. Be
careful in wet weather not to get into the sticky bed of the tiny
stream which here tumbles down. Some boys or beggars are
generally about, and though somewhat of a nuisance their assist-
ance may save trouble. The view makes a good companion picture
to No. 1 on the opposite side of the bay, and need not again be
described, though, of course, the mountain outlines are very
different.
(3) Some two miles from the village, on the Kenmare road, there
is a narrower road turning sharply to the right, straight up the hill-
side. This road affords the widest view of the Glen, as No. 1 affords
the most effective. But it is the only spot from which the full
effect of the foliage and the exquisitely green-blue water can be
obtained. The tourist will not begrudge the exertion given to an
apparently tough climb.
Cromwell’s Bridge is picturesque when seen from the road
(first on left from Eccles Hotel, near Post Office), but far more
so from the water. It is a simple structure of two arches,
long since fallen to ruin, and now moss-clad and ivy-grown.
The story runs that Cromwell, on his way to remonstrate in
that gentle way of his with certain refractory O’Sullivans,
experienced considerable difficulty in fording the river, then
in flood. He thereupon sent for the natives and threatened
that if a bridge was not built by the time of his return he
would hang a man for every hour he was delayed. Needless
to say, no time was lost in meeting his wishes.
Excursions are made up daily from the hotels to the
numerous beauty spots in the neighbourhood, but there are
really so many of these that we can only mention the chief.
Frankly, Glengariff is not a place one wants to “ excursion-
ise ” from. When the nearer walks and view points are
exhausted, there is always the harbour ; and it would be
easy to idle away a whole week in simply rowing or sailing
in and out of the numerous creeks and round the islands.
W. Lawrence , ] [ Dublin .
Cromwell’s bridge, glengariff.
certainly prove a formidable rival to Queenstown when the
proposed lines to Bantry and Kenmare are constructed. The
haven formed by Bear Island is strongly fortified. At the
eastern or seaward entry of the haven stand the ruins of
Dunboy Castle, which furnished the late Mr. J. A. Fronde
with a title and some material for his novel, The Two Chiefs
of Dunboy. The cyclist can return by the road over the
Slieve Miskish Mountain to the south shore of Kenmare
river, and thence eastward by way of Ardgroom and Kilma-
killoge Harbours, Derreen (a seat of the Marquis of Lans-
downe), and Clonee Lakes, to Kenmare, The whole round
1 5 8 CASTLETO WN BE A RHA VEN
There is the best of sport, too, for rod and gun. For those
who must wander, there is the drive or walk to Lord Bantry’s
Shooting Box, with its pretty demesne. A longer trip is to
the lofty Adrigole Waterfall (12 miles westward), and Hungry
Hill (2,251 feet).
By cycling, or taking the mail-car, one can get as far in
this direction as Castletown Bearhaven (22 miles), a tiny
town with one or two good inns, chiefly known to fame in
connection with autumnal naval manoeuvres. A project has
been mooted for making it a Transatlantic port, and it will
GLENGA RIFF TO BANTRY
159
is about 69 miles, and at least two days should be given to
it. During the summer a small steamer runs daily between
Castletown and Bantry.
The mountaineer may care to make the ascent of the Sugar-
loaf (1,887 feet). The distance is about seven miles from the
Eccles Hotel, but a whole day will be required and lunch
should be taken. As there are several routes to the summit,
local guidance should be sought, but a fairly simple ascent
may be made by following the Bearhaven road until about a
mile beyond the inlet known as Cooberagh Harbour. Here turn
to the right and ascend the south-eastern slope of the mountain.
A fine view is gained of the whole extent of Bantry Bay.
Half a mile on the Castletown Bearhaven road is an iron
gate. Here there is a road to the right passing Lady Bantry’s
Look-Out, which affords a capital evening walk for those
who wish to see really effective colour. By taking a sharp
road to the right one comes back to the main road again.
Yet another good trip can be made by the coach which
leaves daily about 1 1 for the Kyber-like Pass of Keimaneigh
and Gougane Barra, with its holy lake. The return to Cork
can now be made this way via Macroom : the route is fully
described in the reverse direction on pp. 174-7.
Glengariff to Bantry.
Assuming that the Prince of Wales Route is adhered to,
the tourist has a choice of several coaches daily for the ten
and a half miles to Bantry. The coaches start from the Eccles,
calling at the Belle Vue and Roche's on the way. The road
skirts the harbour and the head of Bantry Bay, and we have
heard it not inaptly described by an Irishman as “ the most
windingest in creation.” The cyclist never knows what may
be round the next corner — pigs, cows, or coaches — so it is
well to be wary. The views of the bay are pretty, but call
for no remark. We cross the Coomhola river at Snave Bridge,
from which point a fine level road runs northward to Kil-
garvan. In another mile and a half we reach the junction of
several roads at Ballylicky Bridge. One (not recommended
for cyclists) follows first the course of the Coomhola and
then the Slaheny river to Kilgarvan (24 miles). Another is
the road which follows the river Owvane eastward to Keim-
aneigh and Gougane Barra, and so to Macroom and Cork.
Our own road continues round the bay for another four miles
i6o
GLENGARIFF TO BANTRY
to Bantry, where the coach drive terminates and we are in
touch with railways again.
An alternative to the coach route is provided by the
steamer Lady Elsie which plies daily between Glengariff and
Bantry. Tickets by the Prince of Wales Route are avail-
able by either coach or steamer.
OTTER ISLAND, GLENG.
TO OUR READERS.
Every care has been taken in the compilation
of this volume to render it accurate and trust-
worthy. But it is the lot of all human beings —
even of editors of Guide Books, who, of all men,
should be most careful — to err. In this busy
age, too, changes take place, both in town and
country, with marvellous rapidity, and thwart at
times the efforts of the most painstaking writer.
We should, therefore, esteem it a favour, should
any of our readers discover errors, either of
omission or commission, in these pages, if they
would promptly inform the Publishers. Such
communications will be thankfully acknowledged,
and the inaccuracies rectified.
THE EDITOR.
A d dr ess —
Messrs. Ward, Lock & Co., Ltd.,
Warwick House , Salisbury Square,
London , E.C.
BANTRY
161
Bantry.
Hotels. — Railway and Vickery's.
Coaches to and from Glengariff about four times daily during season.
Steamship Princess Beara plies daily in summer between Bantry and Castletown
Bearhaven, in connection with trains from Cork. Fares : — First class
single, 4/6 ; first return, 7/- ; second class, single, 3/6 ; second return, 6/-
Through tickets are issued between Cork and Castletown Bearhaven.
The steamer Lady Elsie (launched 1906) also plies daily between
Glengariff and Bantry in connection with trains and coaches.
Railway. — Terminus of Cork, Bandon, and South Coast line, 57J miles to Cork,
Refreshment Room at station.
Bantry is said to derive its name from Ban-tra, the “ white
strand.” The strand is indisputable, though the construction
of the pier and sea-wall has improved a great part of it out
of existence, but we do not see where the whiteness comes in.
Probably Dr. Joyce is more correct in deriving the name from
Beann (Ban), one of the sons of Conor MacNessa, King of
Ulster in the first century, and ancient owner of this district.
Most people simply go through Bantry without making a
stay, but one or two days can be profitably spent in the little
market town. There is a good bathing-stage, and the bay
affords every facility for yachting and boating. The town
stands near the head of the spacious bay of the same name.
The visitor should, if time allows, call at the Bantry Woollen
Mills. Here he will find an interesting example of an industry
which was once a leading one in Ireland, and which, from the
strides it has lately made, promises to occupy the same posi-
tion again in the near future, owing to the absolute purity
and durability which are gaining such an enviable reputation
for Irish friezes, tweeds, and homespuns. The mill, to which
access can readily be had, is only a few yards from Vickery's
Hotel ; and the wool, which is grown on the hardy native
mountain sheep of the district, can be seen in every stage of
manufacture. Bantry is the seat of a considerable sea-borne
trade, and a number of small coasting vessels may generally
be seen moored off the town. The chief feature of the
town is the beautiful view down and across the spacious
bay, with its background of sharply defined peaks — Hungry
Hill, the Sugar Loaf, and the long range of the Caha
Mountains.
Bantry House, the seat of Mr. Leigh- White, nephew of the
late Earl of Bantry (the title is now extinct), should on no
account be missed. It is the show-place of the town. Follow
the main street seaward from the hotels, skirting the water’s
edge. At the end of the long line of wharves is a solid stone
gatehouse, by which admission is gained. Visitors are allowed
Killarney (m)
162
BANTRY
to wander freely about the grounds and terraces , and in the park,
but the house is not shown. From the terraces behind the
mansion an exquisite view is obtained, though the featureless
Whiddy Island is somewhat in the way. The park can be left
by the western gateway, close to a large, sheet of water
separated from the sea by the high-road. The pretty cascade
in the park ought first to be seen, however. An iron gate on
the seaward side of the road gives on to a path leading up-
wards to a finely placed but neglected Cemetery, from
whence a delightful view across the bay can be had.
The Drive round Dunmanus and Bantry Bays, about 35
miles. This is a fine six hours’ drive, for which circular
tickets are issued from Cork. Lunch can be taken in
the car, but a good hotel has recently been opened at
Ahakista, on the shore of Dunmanus Bay, 12 miles from
Bantry. The chief charm of the "drive is due to the fact
that the sea is close at hand all the way, except for the first
7 miles or so to Durrus. We drive past a succession of pretty
coves, with fine views across Dunmanus Bay of Mount Gabriel
(1,339 feet) and the rugged coast-line to Three Castle Head
and Mizen Head. At Ahakista, as already stated, is a good
hotel. When about two-thirds of the way down the promon-
tory we reach the sequestered village of Kiilcrohane, and
turning rightwards commence the steep ascent of Seefin
(1,136 feet). How the horse manages 'to drag the car up is
a mystery, and tourists will probably be glad of the oppor-
tunity of stretching their legs and showing mercy at the
same time, particularly as the road winds so much that the
scrambler by path has only about half the distance to go.
The backward view is magnificent, but is surpassed, if only
the mountain be free from mist, by that which bursts on the
gaze in front when the summit is reached. The whole stretch
of Bantry Bay, certainly one of the finest in the world, lies
before one. Across the water is the strongly fortified Bear
Island, sheltering the harbour and town of Castletown Bear-
haven ( see p. 158). Behind the island tower the Slieve
Miskish and Caha' Mountains. To westward is the bound-
less ocean, and eastward we have, as we turn and slowly
descend, a sight of the Bay as far as Whiddy Island. The
road during the first part of the homeward journey must be
something like a thousand feet above the sea, which it
directly overhangs.
Bantry Bay, - it should be said, is twenty-one miles long
and from six to eight wide. It affords safe anchorage for
ships of the largest tonnage. The depth of water at the
entrance is about forty fathoms, and the largest warships can
BANTRY
163
anchor in almost any part of the bay. Bantry Bay is every
year the scene of important naval manoeuvres. During the
summer a small steamer plies daily between Bantry and
Castletown Bearhaven in connection with trains from Cork.
The bay is historically interesting as having been the scene
of two attempted invasions by the French. In 1689, their
fleet, which brought to Ireland the ex-king of Great Britain,
James II, entered. In a very short time, the English fleet,
under Admiral Herbert, bore down in pursuit ; but, being
W. Lawrence ,] [. uubnn .
BANTRY HOUSE AND THE BAY.
inferior in force, were compelled to sail out again, after a
brisk engagement. In 1796, the French, with about fifteen
thousand men intended for the invasion of Ireland, again put
to sea, appointing Bantry Bay as their rendezvous. Scat-
tered by a storm, in which one-fourth of the ships were lost,
only a remnant of the armament reached the Irish coast ;
and General Hoche, the commander-in-chief, not having
joined them, the vessels which had cast anchor did not deem
it prudent to disembark their forces. Having lost an oppor-
BAN TRY
164
tunity of landing without opposition, they sailed again for
France, on the 27th of January, after a stay of five days in
the bay. The consternation this event produced all over the
country was intense, and the Government at once erected
fortifications at Bantry to prevent a future surprise.
It was here that the crew of the Temeraire (the old battle-
ship of Turner’s famous painting) mutinied; but the firm-
ness of Admiral Eyles probably saved his own life and the
lives of his officers. He had twenty of the ringleaders seized
and taken to Spithead, where thirteen of them were hung
from the yard-arm.
Whiddy Island,
formerly Lord Bantry’s deer-park, comprises an area of about
1,218 acres, and is remarkable for the diversified quality of
its soil. A black shaly substance, soft and unctuous, re-
sembling black-lead, found on the northern side, was at one
time highly valued in the neighbourhood for its supposed
medicinal qualities. There are some relics of an old church,
with a cemetery attached ; and on the eastern point of the
island are the ruins of a castle built in the reign of Henry VI
by O’Sullivan Bere. Though apparently so near, it is almost
a mile and three-quarters from Bantry.
At Bantry, we are at the end of—
The Cork, Bandon, and South Coast Railway,
a line which connects the town with Cork and which, by
means of its branches and affiliations, opens up communica-
tion with the principal harbours in the much-indented coast
of South-West Ireland. The line has a connection with the
quay at Bantry, a very useful addition to the commercial
conveniences of the town. The carriages on the line are
roomy and comfortable, and the saloons are so arranged
that the views on either side can be fully enjoyed. The
prominent hill to northward, after passing the small station
of Durrus Road, is Mount Owen (1,762 feet), the source of
three rivers, which flow in opposite directions — the Bandon
falling into the sea at Kinsale, the lien below Skibbereen,
and the Mealagh into Bantry Bay.
Drimoleague is the junction for the Skibbereen and Balti-
more line. The break of journey is somewhat inconvenient,
but there is a good deal to interest the tourist in this almost
unexplored corner of Erin. Skibbereen is, in its turn, the
SICIBBEREEN
165
junction for the light railway which now runs to Schull,
some fifteen miles further west, so that the district is fairly
well provided with means of locomotion.
The Skibbereen and Baltimore Branch
runs southward to the coast, having a station at Madore,
about half-way between the junction and —
Skibbereen.
Hotels. — lien Valley, Eldon, etc.
Circular Excursions from Cork to Skibbereen by rail, thence by coach to Glan-
dore, Unionhall, Leap, Lough Hyne, etc. See time-table of Cork, Bandon,
and South Coast Railway.
Skibbereen is a town of about 3,000 inhabitants, standing
at the spot where the Hen widens out to form the creek.
The town is unattractive, and has suffered severely during
successive famines. A walk or drive that should not be
missed is that to Lough Hyne (about 4 miles), a kind of
marine cul de sac, with a very narrow inlet from the sea.
The country is wild and desolate in the extreme, but the
immediate surroundings of the lough are picturesque. In
the centre is an islet, on which are the ruins of an old castle
of the O’Donnells ; and on the shore is one of those grave-
yards devoted exclusively to the burial of children to be
found nowhere but in Ireland.
Toe Head, to the eastward of the lough, commands a
singularly beautiful scene. The Stags, three rocks of un-
usual height, are between us and the land, and the ocean
is flecked with small islets, around which the sea dances and
sparkles in the sunlight. The head terminates the western
promontory which shuts in Castle Haven, at the head of
which is Castletownshend (several Inns), of old known as
Sleugleig, its modern name and that of the bay being derived
from a strong castle belonging to the Townsends, twice be-
sieged in vain by the followers of King James during the
struggle which culminated in the battle of the Boyne. In
1602, the harbour was the scene of a naval engagement
between the Spaniards, under Don Pedro de Zuibar, and the
British fleet, commanded by Sir Richard Levison.
Unionhall and Glandore are picturesquely situated on
either side of the far-reaching islet known as Glandore
Harbour. Dean Swift lived for a period at Unionhall.
Glandore would make a charming winter resort for invalids,
the climate being noticeably mild, though this characteristic
distinguishes more or less the whole of the south-west of
Ireland.
Leap stands at the mouth of a small stream of the same
name, of old considered the boundary between civilisation
66
BALTIMORE
and lawlessness ; hence the proverb, “ Beyond the Leap,
beyond the law.” Now it is on the high-road between Ross-
carbery and Skibbereen, and is crossed by a substantial bridge.
From Skibbereen it is well to go on to the terminus of the
branch line at —
Baltimore,
which owes its charm, from the tourist’s point of view, to
the magnificent cliff walks in the neighbourhood. It is an
excellent yachting and fishing station. The ramifications of
W. Lawrence,} [Dublin.
HARBOUR ENTRANCE AND BEACON, BALTIMORE.
the great harbour are difficult to understand on account of
the many islands, some of considerable size, which occupy it.
The best view point is at the curious round Beacon at the
extreme south-west point of the cliff, right opposite Sherkin
Island. The way is easily found. Continue seawards on
leaving the railway station until the road ends, then take
to the cliff-path and scramble upwards, the beacon being well
in sight. Care is necessary, as the cliff is steep, and there
are some nasty chasms in places. The island to the south-
west beyond Sherkin is Clear Island ( see p. 167). The Fastnet
Rock Lighthouse lies beyond.
BALTIMORE— CAPE CLEAR 167
Baltimore has a history of some interest. The owners of
the soil joined the Tyrone rebellion in 1601 and placed their
castles in the hands of the Spaniards. This led to the intro-
duction of an English colony into the town, which was then
walled and incorporated and obtained the privilege of parlia-
mentary representation. In 1631 it was attacked by Algerian
pirates, who massacred the inhabitants and carried off two
hundred of the settlers as slaves. The Technical School of
Fisheries, near the station, an institution of some importance,
may be seen by visitors.
There is a considerable coasting trade between Baltimore
and Cork and other neighbouring ports. A rock, command-
ing the harbour, is crowned by the ruins of Dunashad Castle,
and the Church has a fine tower. The Harbour extends north-
ward almost to Skibbereen. The largest of the islands is
Sherkin, situated at the mouth of the bay. It is about three
miles long by two broad, and of old contained a Franciscan
abbey and a strong castle. Both were destroyed by the irate
citizens of Waterford, in order to punish the piratical pro-
clivities of the O’ Driscolls, the owners of this and the sur-
rounding islands and of a slice of the mainland. The ruins
of these edifices are interesting, but as they can be well seen
from the Beacon, only enthusiastic antiquaries will go to the
expense of hiring a boat to reach them.
The Schull and Skibbereen Light Railway,
some 15 miles long, is a useful assistance to the trade of
this far west nook of Ireland, but is not greatly used by
tourists. Schull nestles at the foot of brown and barren
Mount Gabriel, on the shore of the sound dotted by “ Carbery’s
hundred isles.” The largest of these is
Cape Clear Island,
three miles long by one and a half broad at its widest part.
It is almost divided in two near its southern extremity. This,
the highest part of the island, presents an inaccessible cliff
to the sea, and — as every schoolboy knows — is the first land
sighted by vessels on their approach from America. On the
summit of the Fastnet Rock, distant about four miles west
by south, is a lighthouse, the light of which is 148 feet above
high-water mark, and is visible for eighteen miles. It has
a flash of five seconds per minute.
The island of Clear is called in the old Irish MSS. Irtish
Damhly, and in the ecclesiastical books, Insulce Sancta Clara.
It is so far from the centre of civilisation that the inhabitants
have retained more of their original customs and language
than is the case in any other part of the United Kingdom.
Westward of Schull is another bay, of sufficient depth to
1 68
CLONAKILTY
almost insulate Mizen Head (the Notium Promonlorium of
Ptolemy), the extreme south-western point of Ireland. The
first view of this headland, 765 feet high, is peculiarly striking.
At the top is an old signal tower. A little to the south, and
separated from it by Barley Cove, is Brow Head. Three
Castle Head, the extreme point of Dunmanus Bay, is so
named from three old fortresses of the Mahony sept. The
tiny town of Goleen is the nearest headquarters for the ex-
ploration of these crooked, sea-indented and almost unknown
promontories.
Resuming the railway journey eastward from Bantry to
Cork, at Drimoleague Junction, we reach Dunmanway,
formerly the seat of an extensive linen manufacture, estab-
lished by Sir Richard Cox, Lord Chancellor of Ireland in the
reign of Queen Anne.
We now follow the course of the river Bandon, and see on
the right the ruins of Ballynacarriga Castle, a square pile of
buildings, standing on the summit of a rock 40 feet above
the level of a lake at its foot.
From Clonakilty Junction (twenty-four miles distant from
Cork and four from Bandon) a short branch runs down to
the sea, some nine miles distant, at
Clonakilty.
Hotels . — Imperial and O'Donovan’s.
Clonakilty is at the head of a small inlet, the mouth of
which is defended by the triangular islet of Inchdovey, on
which are the remains of an old church.
The bay consists of two portions, divided by a sand bar
which forbids the further progress of large vessels and com-
pels them to discharge their cargoes at the small village of
Ring. On Galley Head, the western horn of the bay, is a
powerful, modern lighthouse.
Rosscarbery Bay indents the coast somewhat deeply to the
west of Galley Head. Hanmer tells us that the town was
once the site of “ a famous university, whereto resorted all
the south-west part of Ireland for learning’s sake.” The place
acquired great celebrity from the sanctity of St. Faughnan,
abbot of Moelanfaidh, in county Waterford, who, removing
to Rosscarbery, founded an abbey here. The church of this
abbey was in due time made into the cathedral of a new
see, of which the saint became the first bishop. In 1612, the
cathedral was rebuilt on a new site, and the old abbey and
its church were allowed to decay. Its ruins are now to the
south of the cathedral, a carved head in the south wall being
CO UR TMA CSHERR Y—BA NDON
169
pointed out as that of the founder. The Protestant bishopric
of Ross is now united to that of Cork, and the Cathedral, of
Perpendicular architecture, with a square tower and octagonal
spire, is used as the parish church.
The next bay westward contains the villages of Glandore,
Unionhall, and Leap (see p. 165), more often visited from
Skibbereen by means of the circular coach and rail tours
arranged by the railway company.
From Bailinascarthy Junction, the only intermediate station
on the Clonakilty line, a light railway, nine miles in length,
runs south-eastward to
Courtmacsherry.
H otels.— Esplanade, etc.
Cheap Excursions from Cork daily in summer.
This is a pleasant little watering-place, very popular as a
summer resort with the inhabitants of Cork, Bandon and
other towns in the neighbourhood. The bathing is excellent,
and at Harbour View opposite there are good golf-links. The
promontory is known, from the number of capes of which
it consists, as Seven Heads.
The former residence of the Earls of Shannon is now the
Esplanade Hotel. Timoleague Abbey was erected in 1372 by
the MacCarthys and dedicated to St. Mologua (hence its
name, derived from ty -Mologua, “ the house of Mologua ”).
It was the largest of the many religious houses in the county
of Cork. The visitor is not, therefore, surprised at the
grandeur of the remains, which comprise the nave, choir and
south transept, with a beautiful square tower, 68 feet high,
added by Edward Courcy, Bishop of Ross, in 1518.
Timoleague is three miles to the west, at the head of the
bay, and possesses a station.
A ferry crosses the harbour to the golf links and the A tlantic
Hotel at Harbour View. Bandon and Harbour View are con-
nected by a service of motor ’buses. Close at hand is Kil-
brittain Castle.
Leaving Clonakilty Junction, we pass Castle Bernard, the
princely seat of the Earl of Bandon. The mansion stands
in a beautiful valley, the rising ground on either side being
covered with fine trees. The conservatories, gardens and
grounds are open to the public (Sundays excepted).
Bandon.
Hotels . — Devonshire Arms , French’s, and Temperance.
Bandon, twenty miles from Cork, is an important agri-
cultural centre. It has also extensive breweries and distil-
leries. For tourists and pleasure seekers it possesses little
i ;o BA NDON—KINSA LE
interest apart from its proximity to the beautiful park of
Castle Bernard.
Bandon was for a long time almost exclusively Protestant,
and on that account was called the Southern Derry. Indeed,
the first Earl of Cork recommended it to royal favour and
protection, on the ground that “ no popish recusant, or un-
conforming novelist, is admitted to live in all the town ” ;
and Smith, who wrote in 1750, left on record that “ in the
town there is not a popish inhabitant, nor will the towns-
men suffer one to dwell in it, nor a piper to play in the place,
that being the music formerly used by the Irish in their
wars.” It was enclosed by strong walls, and tradition has
it that the corporation had the following couplet inscribed
above the gateway : —
“Enter here, Turk, Jew, or Atheist,
Anybody but a Papist.”
The same authority further records that one of the settlers
of the “ old faith,” of a waggish disposition, having taken an
extra glass or two, was returning at a late hour to the town
when he beheld the interdiction with no little astonishment.
Being of a poetical turn of mind, he inscribed with chalk
beneath it the following neat repartee : —
“ The lad who wrote this wrote it well,
The same is on the gates of hell.”
In the early part of the seventeenth century it is said
that no less than 2,000 English families resided in the town
and neighbourhood. The Duke of Devonshire owns the
greater part of the town. For a short time previous to the
passing of the Reform Bill, Bandon was represented by Lord
John Russell.
The line, as we continue eastward, still following the
course of the Banion, presents, many picturesque features,
notably near Innishannon, where the river turns southward
to its outlet in Kinsale Harbour. The Meeting of the W citers
of the Bandon and Brinny rivers, close to the ruins of Down-
daniel Castle, is very pretty.
At Kinsale Junction another branch line runs to the
historic town of Kinsale, ten an l a half miles distant.
Kinsale.
Hotels.— Sea View, Kinsale Anns, etc.
Cheap Excursions from Cork on certain days.
To Old Head 0! Kinsale (rail to Kinsale, and conveyance in connection
to Old Head). Wagonnette for a party not exceeding six to Old Hea’d
and back costs 10/6.
171
W. Lawrence ,]
KIN SALE
17 2
Kinsale is built on the slope of Compass Hill, at the mouth
of the river Bandon. It has a quaint appearance, its houses,
many of which are evidently of Spanish origin, rising tier
above tier on sites excavated out of the solid rock, some
being perched on projecting crags. The streets follow the
windings of the river ; and the ruins of the old fort, which
was deemed impregnable until it fell into the hands of Marl-
borough in 1690, add piquancy to the outlook. There is a
charming public walk, shaded by trees, around Compass Hill,
which commands a series of good views of the harbour, the
villages of Scilly and Summercove (the favourite quarters of
summer visitors), and the entire neighbourhood. The only
object of antiquarian interest in the town is the Parish Church,
dedicated to, and said to have been built by, a female saint,
St. Multose, or Multosia, in the fourteenth century. The
church is cruciform, with a curiously shaped tower at the
west end, the upper stage, of smaller dimensions than the
lower portion, terminating in a broach spire.
Kinsale was formerly governed under a charter of Edward
III by a “ sovereign ” and other officials. It has an interest-
ing history. The Spaniards frequently captured and held the
place for longer or shorter periods ; and it took part in all the
struggles between the Saxons and the “ native Irish,” from
the time when Strongbow first subjected it to the English
crown to its capture by Marlborough and the extinction of
the hopes of the last of the Stuarts. J-ames II landed at Kin-
sale in 1689 to commence the campaign that ended so dis-
astrously for him at the Boyne. For centuries Kinsale was
the most important port on the coast, and though it has long
since given way to Queenstown, its harbour is capacious and
well sheltered, and it is still the headquarters of the important
fisheries of the south of Ireland. The fishermen of the port
are daring seamen and good pilots. The harbour is protected
by
The Old Head of Kinsale,
a bold promontory, the name of which — derived from ceann
saille, “ a headland in the sea ” — is happily descriptive. The
summit is crowned by a lighthouse. In the neighbourhood
are the ruins of Courtaparteen Church and Ringrone Castle,
the latter of which was built by Milo de Courcey, the ancestor
of the present Lord Kingsale, premier baron of Ireland (the
title goes back to 1181). De Courcey was selected by King
John as his champion in a quarrel with Philip of France ;
and, being adjudged the conqueror — his rival ran away with-
out striking a blow — received as a reward for his gallantry
the privilege of remaining covered in the presence of his
sovereign, a privilege still preserved.
KIN SALE
173
If the ferry is taken across the Harbour to Old Fort, the
distance to the Old Head is only about five miles. The dis-
tance by road via Garrettstown and Ballinspittle is twice as
great.
From Kinsale Junction the line runs on to Ballinhassig,
and after threading a tunnel a mile and a half long the
highest spot on the line is reached. Then we pass the ruin
of Ballymacadane Abbey, founded about the year 1450 for
Austin Canonesses. The remains of a Danish fort adjoin it.
At Waterfall we get a good view of the “ beautiful citie of
Cork ” and its environs, with the mountains in the distance.
Running over the Chetwynd Viaduct, 100 feet high, we soon
afterwards alight at the Albert Quay Terminus at Cork (see
p. 1 7).
CORK TO GLENGARIFF AND KILLARNEY
BY THE MACROOM ROUTE.
Cork (Capwell Station) to Macroom by Rail, 25 miles — Mac-
room to Glengariff by Coach, 40 miles — Stay night at
Glengariff — Glengariff to Killarney by Coach, 38 miles.
For fares, times, etc., see Time-tables, or apply Traffic
Manager, Cork and Macroom Direct Railway, Capwell
Station, Cork, or Tourist Development Co.’s Offices,
and KillarneyGlengariff.
Refreshments. — It is usual to stop at Inchigeela ( Lake Hotel) for luncheon.
Parties coming in the opposite direction, i.e. irom Glengariff, may be ad-
vised to take luncheon with them, as the refreshments at Gougane Barra
cross-roads are of a distinctly primitive kind, and it is too long to wait until
the arrival of the coach at Inchigeela. The interval at Gougane Barra is,
moreover, wanted for the side trip to the Lake and to St. Finn Barre’s
Hermitage.
LTHOUGH in reality an older route than the Prince of
Wales route described in the last chapter, the Macroom,
or “ Tourists ” route, was only properly opened in 1898, by
the arrangement of inclusive fares for rail and coach. The
road from Macroom to Glengariff has long been known to
a few hardy and adventurous cyclists, but so far as tourists
generally are concerned, we are safe in saying that it is
almost terra incognita. We describe it here in the westward
direction, as the scenery ahead is distinctly better this way ;
but the route is, of course, equally available from Killarney
and Glengariff, tickets being obtainable at either place, and
at the principal stations of the Great Southern and Western
Railway. The long chain of lakes at Inchigeela, the holy
lake of Gougane Barra, and the Khyber-like Pass of Keima-
neigh, make this route a very attractive one.
The Capwell station at Cork is in the southern part of
the city ( see plan), about a mile from St. Patrick’s Bridge.
The railway journey presents some pretty pastoral scenery,
but is chiefly interesting on account of the numerous ruined
castles on either side.
Leaving the station we obtain a passing peep of St. Joseph’s
174
THE MAC ROOM ROUTE
175
Cemetery, and glimpses of other parts of the city, and have
a run of nearly seven miles to Ballincoiig (“ the town of the
wild boar ”), with its barracks and gunpowder works. The
conspicuous square tower is part of the ruin of a castle built
by the Barretts in the reign of Edward III. About two miles
from Ballincollig, at the hamlet of Ovens (a corruption of
St. Owen, the patron saint of the parish), there are some
noted caves in the limestone rock. Shortly after leaving
Killumney station, we have, on the right, the ruins of Kilcrea
Abbey, and on the left the Castle, built in 1465, by Cormac,
Lord of Muskerry.
A mile further are the ruins of Castlemore (“ the great
castle ”), built by the MacSwineys in the fifteenth century.
Close to Crookstown station is the Castle of Clogh-dha (“ the
stone building of David ”), restored and used as a fishing
station by the Earl of Bandon. Crossing the Lee near the
station at Dooniskey, and also the rivers Sullane and Laney,
we reach the terminus of the railway at —
Macroom,
Hotels, — Dennehy’s, Murphy s, Williams’, etc.
a town of about 3,000 inhabitants. The name is variously
translated as “ the plain of the croom ” (oak) and “ the
crooked oak," from the large forest of oak trees which at
one time grew here. The town is pleasantly situated near
the junction of the Lee and the Sullane.
Macroom Castle is said to have been built in the reign of
King John, and is interesting as the birthplace of Admiral
Sir William Penn, the father of the founder of Pennsylvania.
The huge square keep is covered with beautiful variegated
ivy.
From Macroom a direct road runs north-west to Killarney
(about 30 miles), via Ballyvourney, following the course of
the river Sullane, then over the Derrynasaggart Mountains
to the Flesk Valley, striking the railway near Loo Bridge
station on the Kenmare- Killarney branch line.
Leaving Macroom there is a choice of two roads for the
first part of the journey. The driver considerately takes the
higher and more difficult, “ so you can say the scenery,” as
he explains. The ranges to the right are the Boggeragh and,
Derrynasaggart Mountains. The island-dotted river below,
to the left, is the Lee, very different here from the spacious
176 INCHIGEELA — GO U GA N E BARRA
expanse of Cork Harbour. At Toon Bridge we notice the
ruined tower of Dundarieke Castle, a fortress of the Mac-
Carthys. Presently on the left we have Castle Masters.
At Inchigeela ( Lake Hotel) a halt is called. We are now
ten miles from Macroom, and thirty- four from Cork. The
village is mostly resorted to by anglers, trout being plentiful
in the neighbouring lakes and rivers. Boats can be hired
at sixpence an hour.
Leaving Inchigeela, we commence the second section of
the drive. It is a noteworthy feature of this route that it
presents a sample of almost every kind of scenery. Macroom
to Inchigeela is chiefly interesting for the prospect ahead ;
Inchigeela to Gougane Barra for the soft loveliness of the
lakes ; Gougane Barra and Keimaneigh for stern, rugged,
mountain scenery ; Keimaneigh to Glengariff for the fine
distant seascapes and mountain backgrounds. Five miles
after leaving Inchigeela village we have, close to the road,
a chain of no less than six lakes or “ broads,” the largest of
which is Lough Allua. The lakes are really an expansion of
the Lee. With their fringe of rushes, white water-lilies and
setting of firs, the waters are distinctly picturesque, though
they lack the overshadowing heights which give to the lakes
of Cumberland and Westmorland so much of their grandeur.
The curiously shaped height to the left, which has been for
some time conspicuous, is the Sheehy Mountain (1,747 feet).
The mountains now close in on either side, and three miles
westward of the hamlet of Ballingeary, we stop at Gougane
Barra cross-roads, twenty miles from Macroom.
Gougane Barra.
A word of explanation is necessary. The coach-road does
not actually pass the celebrated “ holy lake.” When the halt
is made at the cross-roads, it is a sharp twenty minutes’ walk,
mostly uphill, to the lake, following the direction indicated
by the sign-post. A char-a-banc is provided for coach pas-
sengers free of charge.
The lake lies in a sequestered spot, environed on all save
the eastern side by mountains of the steepest and most deso-
late aspect, which rise abruptly to a height of 1,800 feet.
The dark shadows of these great overhanging cliffs are re-
flected in the glassy surface of the water. The lake itself
is dark and lustrous as a polished slab of marble, and the
gloomy grandeur of the cliffs is only relieved by the streams
W. Lawrence ,]
[ Dublin .
INCHIGEELA LAKE.
W. Lawrence ,] [Dublin.
GOUGANE BARRA.
Killarncy'in) i 77
178 GOUGANE BARRA
that here and there run down their furrows like trembling
silver strings. These streams unite to form the Lee, and the
lake is considered its source, although its spring proper is
on the side of N ad-na-uillar (“ eagles’ nest ”), a steep and
all but inaccessible mountain at the western extremity.
In the middle of the lake is a small wooded island, joined
to the mainland on the south side by a causeway. This
W. Lawyer ce,] [ Lublin .
THE PASS OF KEIMANEIGH.
island was, at the end of the sixth century, the chosen retreat
of Saint Fin Barre, the patron saint of Cork. The ruins
consist of the remains of the church, the walls of an ad-
joining convent, and the rectangular court or cloister. About
this enclosure are eight small circular cells. This retreat is
even yet resorted to by devotees, who believe that the water
of its “ blessed well ” is a specific for many bodily ailments ;
and on September 29 it is annually the scene of “ patrons,’’
THE PASS OF KEIMA NEIGH
179
when Mass is celebrated in the open air. In the early part
of the eighteenth century another recluse, Father O’Mahony,
retired to the island, and his tomb, erected it is said by
himself, is pointed out on the adjoining mainland.
Returning to the main road, where the coach awaits us,
we at once enter on the best part of the drive.
The Pass of Keimaneigh,
“ the pass of the deer,” is a stern defile, more than a mile
and a quarter in length, and probably the finest thing of its
kind in Ireland, though some would be disposed to give the
preference to the Pass of Ballaghbeama in Kerry ( see p. 132).
The mountain appears to have been rent asunder by some
mighty convulsion, and the minute correspondence and
similarity of the strata on each side is apparent in many
places. There is only just room in the deep cleft for the
narrow road and the torrent which foams beside it. Great
cracked masses of rock are poised above, and threaten at
any moment to fall.
The summit of the pass is 700 feet above sea-level, and
is the highest part of the route. On emerging, we round
the unmistakable Sheehy Mountain, and have the river
Owvans for company all the way down the long descent to
Bantry Bay. The views ahead are, in clear weather, superb.
About midway we pass the Castle of Carrignass (“ Rock of
the Waterfall ”), a former seat of the omnipresent O’Sullivans,
and in very fair preservation. At the. head of the bay, the
road turns leftward to Bantry (see p. 161), four miles, and
rightward to Glengariff (p. 153), seven miles.
SCIENCE NOTES.
Geology. — The central plain of Ireland is formed of Car-
boniferous limestone, with few elevations, but bounded by
mountainous ridges. The Kerry ranges run mostly parallel
from east to west. The narrower troughs, or “ synclinals,”
are Carboniferous, the broader ridges, or “ anticlinals,” are
Old Red Sandstone. The former, being more easily weathered
and denuded, give us the valleys and narrow fiords, the latter
give us the long ranges of hills (several over 3,000 feet high),
and the headlands and promontories projecting into the
sea, often with the strata bent into arches. These bendings
and crumplings may be plainly seen in many places — for
example, where the hills are bare of vegetable growth, or
where the road crosses a ridge. Thus it follows that the
visible rocks are usually the older series, and were once
covered by the Carboniferous strata now weathered away.
Kenmare and Killarney lie in Carboniferous valleys, but on
the road between these places a massive ridge of Old Red
Sandstone is crossed. Here, too, glacial action is plainly
visible. Kerry itself was afterwards one vast snowfield.
Great glaciers travelled (according to the Rev. Maxwell Close,
who has made a special study of the Ice Age in Ireland)
from the lower reaches of the Shannon towards Kerry — a
striking example of an uphill ice movement. The main ice-
field was in the centre of Ireland, only four or five hundred
feet high, but the ice travelled regardless of small local
elevations, only turning aside for mountains, round which
it passed. The ice marking is, however, very confused —
like a crush in the Arctic seas — owing to minor ice streams.
Probably the main stream was thousands of feet deep. The
main direction was north-north-west to south-south-east, the
glaciers ending in the sea about Cork, Kinsale, Kenmare, etc.
Ice markings may be seen on the rocks about Kenmare, on
the shores of Killarney, at Sneem, and even as high as 2,500
feet on the Reeks, and again at Windy Gap on the road
180
SCIENCE NOTES
1 8 1
from Kenmare to Killarney. Glacial lakes also abound in
Kerry : Lough Coomanassig, 1,500 feet above the sea, is one.
This basin was hollowed out by a glacier ; lower down the
moraine blocked the valley, forming a second tarn — the
eagle’s lough. Ice helped to deepen, if not to form, the lakes
of Killarney. Rounded and polished limestone is frequently
seen, and many perched blocks — one near Dunmanway
weighs some thousand tons. Near Kenmare may be seen
a huge block of Old Red Sandstone resting on a limestone
pillar 6 feet high, while in another direction a great block
of limestone is found resting on Old Red Sandstone.
Chalybeate springs are common in county Cork. Good
slates are also found, and copper, but the latter cannot be
profitably worked. Various coloured marbles are found ;
anthracite coal is worked. Lead, iron, manganese and ochre
are also found, and were once much more worked than now.
County Cork has many caves and underground streams.
Climate. — The mean temperature of Kerry and part of
Cork is 51 0 , of the extreme south-west 52 0 . The rainfall is
from 40 to 50 inches, but in the south-west it is over 50
and under 75 inches — this is exceeded in parts of Wales,
Scotland and the Lake District in England. Winter and
summer temperature are very equable, and the air pure.
June and September are the driest months in Ireland.
Zoology. — Red deer are now found wild only at Killarney.
Elk were once there. The zoology of the Kerry district is
specially interesting, both fauna and flora having apparently
a Spanish or Portuguese origin, hence they are called Lusi-
tanian — the former name of the Roman province now Portu-
gal. A black slug with yellow spots is found only in the
south-west of Ireland and Portugal — nowhere else in the
world. Other molluscs have a similar origin, but two are
peculiar to Kenmare. Other very rare creatures may be
found in this region, a dark wood-mouse, etc. But the dis-
trict also contains North American and Arctic forms of life
— fresh-water sponge, certain beetles, butterflies, etc. The
great wolf spider, the large grasshopper, and the clear-wing
moth are all found here, and many rare insects.
Botany. — Here also a Lusitanian origin may be seen in
many specimens, for Mediterranean or Pyrenean flowering
plants are found, as well as some American. Some of the
semi-tropical mosses, etc., are found nowhere else in Europe,
possibly the Gulf Stream has carried them over. It is
182
SCIENCE NOTES
curious that with these species — found elsewhere only in
much warmer regions — may also be seen many Alpine species.
It can thus be gathered that the botany of the district is
peculiarly interesting and diversified. Common wild plants
are the Irish spurge, the London Pride, the great Butter-
wort, found here alone in the British Isles, as is also the
arbutus. The Royal fern, or Osmunda, is a common way-
side plant. The “ Killarney fern ” is more rare, and scarcely
found elsewhere in Europe. Other plants and ferns form an
Atlantic type. A certain orchid found here and in one or
two other Irish places is otherwise exclusively an American
or Kamschatkan plant. The blue-eyed grass of Canada and
a certain rare rush is not found elsewhere in Europe. Kerry
is specially rich in mosses and liverworts, some being quite
tropical and known in the West Indies, tropical Andes, etc.
Archaeology. — Antiquities abound in Kerry and in Cork,
such as cromlechs, standing stones, or gallauns, some of
which show writing in the Ogham character. The Bishop
of Limerick collected stones with inscriptions in the Ogham
character — so long undeciphered — and these may now be
seen in the grounds of Parknasilla Hotel, formerly his own
residence. Staigue Fort, near Sneem, is an almost unique
example of an ancient Cathair. These are all pre-Christian,
but early Christian and later architectural remains may be
seen at Aghadoe, and elsewhere, and many are the holy
places, islands, wells, etc., still the objects of pilgrimages or
much-desired burial-places.
For Index see pp. 183-8.
NORTH BRITISH RUBBER CO,
CASTLE MILLS, EDINBURGH.
■
“
The New Business of the
LTD.,
—j
"\
NORWICH UNION LIFE OFFICE
Shows another remarkable record , and in
1904 exceeded £3,500,000.
THE REASON WHYP
“ FOR EVERY CLASS OF ASSURANCE , THE SOCIETY'S
POLICIES ARE ADVANTAGEOUS .”
— Saturday Review.
Among the most popular are the
EIGHT-OPTBON POLICY
FOUR PER CENT. INCREASING POLICY
CURRENT SAVINGS POLICY
EARLY PROVIDENT INSURANCE
NON-FORFEITABLE PROVISIONS for Age
Particulars of any of the above on application to Dept. G.,
NORWICH UNION LIFE OFFICE, NORWICH.
To I act matter at tnd]
CLEARS PATHS OF ALL WEEDS.
BRIGHTENS THE GRAVEL.
One Application during Year Sufficient. Cost 1/6 to 21 -
for ioo square yards.
EUREKATINE FOR FUMING AND SPRAYING,
Kills Green-Fly, &c»
ASK YOUR AGENT, Or DIRECT FROM
TOMLINSON & HAYWARD, Ltd., Lincoln.
HUTCHINSON & SON
(Late ADLINGTON & HUTCHINSON, Established 1745)
ARE THE
Only Makers of the Genuine
KENDAL FISH HOOKS.
fsOUTHALL’S JSL BOOTS
m The Easiest and Neatest Boot in Existence. No Laces. No Buttons,
g No Weak Seams. But a Neat Fastener Round Ankle.
fllO/6 TOURING. F CITY. SPORT. «
( ALL LEATHERS. ALL SIZES. ALL PRICES.
Catalogues free from SOUTHALL & CO. (Dept. 27), 187, Kirkstall
Road, Leeds. London : 35, Norfolk Street, Strand, W.C. Also I
27, Bridge Street, Bradford, and 72, Pinstone Street, Sheffield.
= 21 /-
CONTRACTOR TO H.M. GOVERNMENT.
W. H. HARLING’S
Drawing Instruments
AND
DRAWING OFFICE MATERIAL
For the use of
Architects, Engineers, Lithographers, Surveyors, Technical
Students, and others.
/mtatt™ *, FINISH guaranteed, prices reasonable.
illustrated catalogue Free by post on application to
W. H. HARLING,
rtfeatbematical, Drawing, & Surveying
Jnstrument /ibanufacturer,
47a, FINSBURY PAVEMENT, LONDON, E.C.
GROSVENOR WORKS: HACKNEY, N.E.
Established 1851 .
Telegrams: “CHRONOGRAPH, LONDON
Telephone No. 8858 LONDON WALL
BY SPECIAL APPOINTMENT
TO
H.M. THE KING,
JOHN BRINSMEAD & SONS, LTD.,
pianoforte takers,
18, 20, & 22, WIGMORE STREET,
LONDON, W. j
^ch <0<>C^<><><>0<)0<>0<>0<>C><>0<>Ct
KEATING’S
POWDER.
HARMLESS TO ANIMALS.
HARMLESS TO ANIMALS.
KILLS
FLEAS,
MOTHS,
BEETLES.
Sold in Tins,
3d., 6d., Is. each.
KILLS
FLEAS,
MOTHS,
BEETLES.
The PUBLIC are CAUTIONED that my Powder
is sold only in tins, each beaiing the autograph of
THOMAS KEATING.
] >000000 0<»00<>0<>00000<>00rf
viii
Guide Book Advertiser
PRIZE
MEDAL
symons & co.’s
DEVONSHIRE CYDER,
Sold in Casks and Bottles by the best Wine Merchants, or direct from
JNJ. SYMONS & CO., LTD., Totaes, Devon;
Ratcliffe, London, E. ; and Aston Street, Birmingham.
T. DILLON & SONS,
MAKERS OF
THE CLADDAGH BING ,
Original Makers of Claddagh Brooches,
Bangles, and Scarf Pins.
T. D. & S. had the distinguished honour of making,
by command, a Claddagh Ring for Her late Majesty
Queen Victoria, on Her Majesty’s last visit to
Ireland. History of Ring free on application.
Connemara Marble Ornaments & Jewellery.
You Know Them. T. DILLON & SONS, Irish Art Jewellers,
GALWAY and ATHLONE.
CONNOISSEURS SMOKE
TEOFANI’S
HIGH-CLASS CIGARETTES.
VISITORS’ DELIGHT !
FALK’S™ 1 ' SALT
Obtained from ©rocers
IN PENNY or HALFPENNY PACKETS .
48 - IT NEVER CAKES. 44*
Guide Book Advertiser
ix
Telegrams: “BILLIARDS, BIRMINGHAM.” Telephone: 1941.
GOLD MEDALS AWARDED FOR EXCELLENCE.
THOMAS PADMORE & SONS,
BIL1.TA II D . TABLE
Contractors
to
MANUFACTURERS.
H.M.
Government.
Sole Makers of The New “Premier Frost Proof Low Fast Cushions. Fastest on
the Market. Never go hard. Very Strong.
118, Edmund Street, BIRMINGHAM, ENGLAND.
CLARNICO
SWISS MILK CHOCOLATE.
A MOST DELICIOUS SWEETMEAT.
SUSTAINING. NUTRITIVE. PURE.
OF ALL CONFECTIONERS, in Id., 3d., and 6d. Packets.
Sole Ma hers :
CLARKE, NICKOLLS & COOMBS, Ltd., London.
BENBOWS DOG MIXTURE
(. BEWARE OF LOW PRICED IMITATIONS.)
Reputation. THE ORIGINAL MEDICINE Reliable Tonic.
For the Cure of Distemper, Jaundice, Destroying
Worms, etc., it is Invaluable.
By a course of Treatment during preparation for Dogs for Exhibition, perfect con-
dition can be assured, together with a Sleekness of Coat so essential for success on
the Show Bench. Sold in bottles, with full Directions for use, 2/-, 5/-, and 10/- each;
or in Gallon Tins (for the use of Kennels), at 45/ r each ; also in Capsules in Boxes
containing 24 Half-teaspoonsful or 15 Teaspoons, 2/6 each. Of all Chemists or from
Sole Proprietors : Benhow's Dog Mixture Co., 181 Aldersgate Street London, E,C.
SULPHOLINE
Removes
Sir SKIN Is.
Disfigurements ,
Eczema,
Irritation ;
Developing
A Fair,
Spotless Shin
Bottles
LOTION
PEPPER’S
QUININE AND IRON
TONIO
Improves appetite, promotes digestion
strengthens nerves, increases pulse,
gives firmness to the muscles, alters
pale countenance, supplies deficient
heat to weak circulations, overcomes
bodily weariness a» d weakness, cures
many painful com] 1 tints.
Ins'S ‘ on having PEPPER'S TONIC.
Guide Book Advertiser
WARD, LOCK & CO.’S
SCHOOL ANNOUNCEMENTS.
+
Terms for Advertisement Space on application to
Mr. Henry S. Thomas, Advertising Manager,
Warwick House, Salisbury Square,
Fleet Street, London, E.C:
FI H ST-CLASS SCHOOL
Daughters of Gentlemen.
QUEENWOOD,
EASTBOURNE.
Recognised by tbe
Board of Education,
Principals :
Miss CHUDLEIGH and Miss JOHNS, M.A. (Lond.).
Situated on West Cliff. Facing Sea and Downs. Riding, Swimming,
Hockey, Tennis, Croquet, etc. Preparation (if desired) for all Examina-
tions. Music, Languages, Art and Literature are Special Features.
LEATHERHEAD »“«•
A FIRST-CLASS BOARDING ft ft I | RT
SCHOOL FOR GIRLS. IbULB K 1
Principal : Miss Tullis. 1 ■ ■ ■
Premises — a fine Modern Country Mansion, with ample accommodation.
Private drainage, laundry, and electric light installation. Staff of Six
Resident Mistresses and Eleven London Visiting Professors. Regular
lessons on the History of Art, Music, etc., with illustrative visits to Town.
Daily Drill : Cycling, Riding, Lacrosse, Tennis, Handwork.
SOUTHPORT
HIGHLY SUCCESSFUL
SCHOOL FOR BOYS.
Head Master:
j. C. UNDERWOOD,
A.C.P., F.R.G.S.
MODERN
Languages,
Science, & Com-
mercial Subjects,
at inclusive lees.
Second Master, T. H. Pritchard, B.A. (Lond.)
Science Master, G, F. Douglas, B.Sc. (Hons.)
And a large staff Gf qualified and efficient Form Masters,
SCHOOL
Guide Book Advertiser
xi
WARD, LOCK & CO.’S
Insurance Announcements.
— ♦
Terms for Advertisement Space on application to
Mr. Henry S. Thomas, Advertising Manager,
Warwick House, Salisbury Square,
Fleet Street, London, E.C.
The Liverpool h London & Globe Insurance Company.
— FIRE. LIFE. — Moderate Rates. Absolute Security.
Liberal Bonuses. Total Assets exceed £11,000,000.
Application for Agencies invited.
Head Office— l, Dale Street, Liverpool. London Office— l, Cornhill.
The Edinburgh Life Assurance Company. _Fo C e de g f 18 ?, 3 -
Oldest of the Life Assurance Offices. Early Provident Scheme for
Young Persons. Five per Cent. Income Policies and Four per
Cent. Debenture Policies. Claims are paid immediately after
proof. Moderate Premiums. Increasing Bonuses.
22, George St., Edin., & 11, King William St., London, E.C.
Little ‘Cousin’ Series
By MARY HAZELTON WADE.
Crown 8vo cloth, special design, each with six illustrations,
in tints, Is.
These volumes contain most interesting and delightful accounts of child-life
in other lands, filled with quaint sayings, doings, and adventures. The
little characters are truly fascinating.
I.
THE
LITTLE
JAPANESE GIRL.
2.
THE
LITTLE
ESKIMO.
3-
THE
LITTLE
AFRICAN.
4-
THE
LITTLE
INDIAN.
5-
THE
LITTLE
RUSSIAN.
6.
THE
LITTLE
BROWN BOY.
7-
THE
LITTLE
CHINESE GIRL.
8.
THE
LITTLE
NORWEGIAN GIRL.
LOXOUiM WARD, LOCK & CO LIMITED .
WARD, LOCK & CO.’S
House & Estate Agents’,
Auctioneers’ & Valuers’ Directory
♦ —
For Terms , &c., apply Mr. Henry S. Thomas, Advertising
Manager , Warwick House, Salisbury Square,
Fleet Street, London, E.C.
SlHohlirdh fin Qaq — WOODCOCK & HENRY, House & Estate Agents,
aIuOUUI 5 U"Ull _ OCtt Auctioneers, & Valuers. List of furnished Houses,
Country Mansions, Shooting and Sporting Estates, in Aldeburgh,
Dunwich, & East Coast District on application.
Dojli — POWELL & POWELL, House Agents. Lists of Properties
Dll 111 sen t f ree on application. Removal & Warehousing Contractors.
18 , Old Bond Street, Bath ; and the Paddington Depositories,
London, W. Tels. — “ Powells, Bath.” “ Depositing, London.**
Rfilirmamfillfh ~ HoLlse an( i Estate Agencies. Ore of 'he oldest es-
DU III HCIHU 11 111 tablished is conducted by Messrs. JOLLlFFE &
FLINT. Full particulars of Residences to be Let or Sold,
furnished or unfurnished, free by post. Offices— i, Arcade.
RnnrriArrmilth - LANE & SMITH, F.S.I., F.A.I. Established 1875 .
DUUI IICIIIUUHI House & Estate Agents, Auctioneers, & Valuers. List
of Properties to be Let or Sold, Furnished & Unfurnished, sent
poet free. Also Apartments. — 8t, O'd Christchurch Road.
Rrnrllindtnn Focf VflT’l/’Q — GHABLES H. WARDILL, Auctioneer
DIIUIIII5LUII, Laol lUIAo. and Valuer. Estate and House Agent.
Central Chambers, Chapel Street. Properties a Speciality.
Letters and Telegrams : — “ Wardill, Auctioneer, Bridlington.”
HiPltPuham — Cornelius & boulter, House and Estate
VilCUCilUam Agents, Auctioneers, and Valuers. List of Properties,
to be Let Furnished or Unfurnished and for Sale, Post Free.
Offices — Promenade.
Cromer- H. d. LIMMER,
HOUSE AGENT.
Free Register of Furnished Seaside and Country-
Houses, Shootings, Apartments, Land, Estates, etc
Offices : — CROMER, SHERINGHAM, MUNDESLEY.
frOITlPr- For Furnished Houses and the largest selection
^ 1 of residences to be Let or Sold, apply to the
principal Agents, Messrs. CARTER & CO.
FfKthmirnP — EASTER & WRIGHT. Established 1875. Auctioneers,
UiLolUUUl 11C House and Estate Agents, and ValuerSi Opposite
Station. Nat. Tel. — 49 *
Auctioneers, Estate Agents, Etc.
Xlll
FflQthmirTlP - R - W * HAMBLYN, House and Estate Agent. Estab-
LdolUULil ilu lished 1891. Write for particulars of Apartments and
Houses to be Let or Sold. — Elms Buildings, Eastbourne.
Telephone 33X.
FflQthmirnA~ For l ar S est selection ot Residences to be Let or Sold,
ijdblUUUI 11 C and all Furnished Houses, apply to the principal Agents,
Messrs. KILLICK & DAVIES.
FfltfhftUNlP — OAKDEN & CO., HOUSE AGENTS.
JJIIOIUU Ul 110 The oi d . esta blished Auctioneers, Surveyors, and Valuers,
10, Cornfield Road. Extensive selection of the principal Resi-
dences for Sale & to be Let. Illustrated Register. Tel. 198.
FYmmith & ^ istrict -— BLACKMORE & SONS, F.A.I., House and Es-
IjAIUUULII tate Agents, Auctioneers & Valuers, Furnishers, Removal
& Storage Contractors, Upholsterers. Full list of furnished and un-
furnished Houses to be Sold or Let on application —36, Rolle St.
F YTTI All til — b urnished or Unfurnished Houses. For particulars of all
liAmUUlll Properties write for Free Illustrated List to CREWS &
SON, Oldest-Established House Agents, Auctioneers, Furnishers,
_ Removers, Undertakers. 4 & 6, Rolle Street. (
Ffllmmith — ROWE & CORLYON, Auctioneers, Valuers, House & Estate
rdllllUUlil Agents. Careful attention and immediate Settlements given to
Sales of Furniture, Properties, Shares, Farm Stock, etc. Valuations
for probate, etc. Offices, Strand. Telegrams — “ Rowe, Corlyon.”
Ynrk^ —WILLIAM GOFTON, House and Estate Agent. For
j lOlAu. selected Furnished Houses and Apartments, also
Unfurnished Houses, apply 1, Cliff Terrace, Filey.
fiftflalmiriff - ^ COLLIER, SON, & SPARKES, House & Estate Agents,
UUulLlllililg Auctioneers, Shooting Agents, Farm & Timber Valuers;
Branch Offices — Haslemere a nd Liphook.
Hampton Court & East Molesey F l E S c \,^,™
Valuers, House & Estate Agents. Guide to District Post Free.
Telegrams— “ Griffin, East Molesey.” Nat. Tel. — 44, Molesey.
UpnHrirjq & St. Leonards House Agency, illustrated List of Fui”
UUOIIII50 nished & Unfurnished Houses, with Map, gratis. Boarding
& Apartment Houses for Sale. Apply Mr. HOLMAN, Cheapside,
King’s Road. Telegrams — “Holman, St. Leonards-on-Sea.”
JOSEPH GRIPPER, F.S.I., Estate Agent
Register of Estates, Houses, Bunga-
lows, Sites to be Let or Sold, Post Free.
Herne Bay
and Auctioneer.
M — CHAS. CHARTER, Estate Agent, Surveyor, & Valuer, 4, Bond
St. Charter’s Property List contains 1,600 Properties for Sale.
Charter’s To Let List contains 200 Properties To Let. Published
monthly, gratis. Established iq years.
Uimotanfftn and North West Norfolk and Sandringham
flUIlbldlllUIl District. -INGRAM WATSON & SON, House and
Estate Agents. Free Illustrated Register & Illustrated Guides.
Offices— Hunstanton.
Tlfrarnmhp and District. — Particulars of principal Residences (Fur-
IlilabUIlIUC nished or Unfurnished), Apartments, and Properties for
Sale, sent on application to W. C. HUTCHINGS, Auctioneer
and Estate Agent.
flfrflpomhp N0RTH devon house and estate agency.
1111 dl/UlllUC Houses & Business Premises of every description. Furnished
Houses & Apartments a speciality. Furniture removed. Estimates
free. Telegrams: “ Kempe, Ilfracombe.” Tel. — 1Y2, Ilfracombe.
Sandown
Leading House & Estate Agents.
HIGGS, SOWARD & MUMBY
Under Royal and Distinguished Patronage.
Auctioneers, Estate Agents, Etc.
I W — Sandown, Shanklin, Bembridge, and District.
A * 11 ' G. W. S. WITHERS (Chief Office : Opposite Railway Station),
Sandown. Established 1868. Printed Registers Free.
Shanklin Phwpq & District.— J ohn s. Rogers & Co., a.jc*
Olldlmliil, OUYiOOj tioneers, Valuers, & Estate Agents. Free Register
of Furnished Houses & Apartments. Unfurnished Houses & Proper*
ties to be Let or Sold. Tel. 51 x 2 Shanklin, and 63 Y Cowes.
Vpntnnr I W — C. MITCHELL & SONS, House and Estate Agents.
I ClUIlUi j 1 . II . Lists of Isle of Wight Properties free. Offices — Church
Street. Ventnor
Innrinn~ PHILIP stock, f.a.i., Auctioneer, Surveyor, Valuer,
liUiiuUii Estate and House Agent, 349, Coldharbour Lane, Brixton,
S.W. Sales at the Mart, Tokenhouse Yard, E.C., monthly, or
other dates as required. Telegirams — “ Affafcrous, London.”
Telephone— No. 25 Brixton. Established 1866.
KENTISH TOWN, CAMDEN TOWN, HIGHGATE, HOLLOWAY,
TUFNELL PARK, HAVERSTOCK HILL and Neighbourhood.
MESSRS. SALTER, REX & CO.
( Francis H. Rex, F.S.I . , F.A.I.) t
Surveyors an£> Jluctloneera,
Xanfc, ibouse, ant> tEetate Agents,
Issue Free List of all available Properties for Sale or to be Let in N.W. and
N. Districts. Rents Collected. Estates Managed; Mortgages Arranged,
Apply:- 311 , KENTISH TOWN ROAD, LONDON, N.W.
Telephone: 569 , North. TelegrMls : “Rex, Kentish Town
T AWPQtnft WfiUQP C. TITCOMB, F.A.I., Auctioneer, & c.,
LU WOolUil IIUiloO flgCIIl. Pier Terrace, will forward free on applica-
tion a List of Furnished Houses (some with shady gardens), Un-
furnished Houses, Shops, Apartments, &c.
— J. F. DEWICK (late Walter Williams), House & Estate
Agent. Apply for List of Houses or Properties to Let,
Furnished or Unfurnished. Offices — 15, The Avenue. _
NnWflllQU FAPnWQll — F. WAREN & CO., House, Land, & Estate
HvJW IJUCLy , vUIIlW all Agents & Valuers, Central Chambers. Register
of Apartments & Furnished & Unfurnished Houses to be Let or Sold
free on application. Tels. : “Waren, Newquay.” Nat. Tel. 0193;
Houses in Oxford I District - are the Agents for all furnished
and unfurnished Residences to Let in and around Oxford.
Property Register gratis. Offices— n, Corn Market St., Oxford.
Central Perthshire Highlands.— List of Furnished
Houses to Let for Summer Months, &c., Free by
Post, from C. C. STUART & SON.
Telegrams — “ Stuart, Pitlochry.”
Plvmmith ELLI0TT ELLIS & co., f.al, h ouse Agents, Auc-
rijlllUULll tioneers, and Valuers. Extensive Monthly Register of
Furnished and Unfurnished Houses, Properties, and Estates.
Telegrams — “ Negotiate, Plymouth.” Telephone No. 153.
Pa menu loin nf Man— For Furnished & Unfurnished Houses,
ndlllbcy, lbic U 1 mail also Select Private Apartments, apply
to T. A. FARGHER, House and Estate Agent.
Qalthlirn hu thfl Qua Vorko —Houses Furnished and Unfurnished
OailUUIll-UJf-LllC-OCd, I UlAo. to Let, also Apartments. Apply
R. HUNTER, Auctioneer and House Agent, Railway Station.
Nat. Tel. 052.
Auctioneers, Estate Agents, Etc.
CnltKiiim Kir thn — For particulars of Furnished Houses & Apait-
OdllUUIU-Uj-LllD-UCd ments, also Residences and Houses for Sale
or to Let, apply to H. HAMILTON, House & Estate Agent,
Victoria Library, Sahburn. Established 1886.
and District— All the best Furnished & Unfurnished
0 ML 1 UUlUUgii Houses. W. ROWNTREE & SONS, House Agents,
Scarborough. Tel. Ad. : “ Rowntree, Scarboro’.” Nat. Tel. No. 7.
QhfmhflrfTo Rneh Acton, & Ealing.— C. RAWLEY CROSS & CO.
DUvJJlluIU o DUoil, Houses, Flats, and Business Premises for Sale
or to be Let. Offices (facing Tube Stn.), Shepherd’s Bush ; (facing
the Church), High Street, Acton : and 37, Broadway, Ealing, W.
•sidmAllth^Hou^s to Let, Furnished or Unfur-
OlUlllvUUl nished, also Apartments. Apply to
G. PIDSLEY & SON, Fore Street.
Southampton & S. Hants - & Estate Agents, Auctioneers, Valuers,
Surveyor*, & Fire Assessors. Estab. 40 years. Printed Register
Free. Tels. “ Bance, Southampton.” Offices — 67, Above Bar.
Qrtuth Uanfo including Southampton and the New Forest.—
OUUlll naillb, PERKINS & SONS (Address, Southampton),
Estate and House Agents, Auctioneers, Valuers, and Surveyors.
Monthly List on application. Established nearly a Century.
Southsea, Portsmouth, Havant,
14, Osborne Road, Southsea
(3 minutes’ walk from Southsea Pier). For furnished and um
furnished Houses to be Let or Sold. Also Business Premises, &c.
OntfAii QllPPPV — 3°° f eet above sea level. Golf. 25 minutes from
uUllUilj QUIlOj London Bridge or Victoria. List of Houses to be
Let or Sold, post free,
from the House and Estate Agents,
Messrs. DIXON & CO
Torquay
COX & SON, F.A.I., House Agents,
Auctioneers, & Valuers, 4, Victoria
Parade. Established 1805. Illustrated List
on application. Nat. Tel. 75.
TORQUAY
Tunbridge Wells-
HOUSE AGENTS, &c.
G. R. SMITH & SON, 9, Strand.
Illustrated List of Houses Post Free. Also Apartments.
— The Garden of Kent. Illustrated
Register of Estates and Houses
post free of BRACKETT & SONS, Estate Agents &
Auctioneers, 27 & 29, High Street, Tunbridge Wells,
and 34, Craven Street, Charing Cross, W.C. New
Service of 13 express trains, without stop, between
Tunbridge Wells and London (Cannon Street in 48
minutes).
“Tunbridge Wells,” says the Sunday Times, il appears likely,
during the Winter Season, to rival the Riviera in popularity.
Many of our eminent doctors, including Sir William Broadbent,
declare its climate to be simply perfection. It is a perfect
ground of miracle for hopeless cases.”
Wpvmmith — ^ W. FULLER, 33, St. Thomas St., Auctioneer, Valuer,
II Oj UiUUlii Hotel Broker, & House Agent. Register fiee on application.
Auctioneers, Estate Agents, Etc.
WnFth ind — Apply to NORMAN & SPENCER for Register of all the
11 lUlUg. best Houses & Shops to be Let or Sold, Furnished and
Unfurnished. Register free.
And at West Worthing.
Personal attention to all who call.
Worth in0~ JORDAN ^ ^ ouse Agents and Auctioneers.
II U1 LUIII 5 published and forwarded free. 35 , South Street.
Lisis
Telegrams: “Auctioneer, Worthing'.”
Most Healing Ointment on the Market. 100 Years Reputation.
For Sore Eyes, Eczema, Boils, Piles, Bad Legs, &c.
1/U, 2/9, 4/6, 11/- of all Chemists and Stores. Also in the Colonies.
Made only by
BEACH & BARNICOTT, LTD., BRIDPORT.
Write for Pamphlet , and mention this Guide.
YITALISER
3YER, VE TONIC
AND
LIFE I3!ff VIC5^0K,A,T0 R b
A splendid Restorative, increasing the quantity
and improving the quality of the blood. It is of
immense value in low state of the system.
During its use the temperature of the body rises, the weight is aug-
mented, digestion aided, appetite increased, and the general health im-
proved. The patient at the same time gains flesh and colour.
Proctor’s Vitaliser is excellent for all who have great Mental Strain;
it stimulates the heart ; enriches the blood ; strengthens the brain, en-
abling it to perform its functions without the fatigue which usually follows
excessive study and overworked state of the nervous system.
5/- per Bottle , post free from —
PROCTOR’S PINELYPTUS DEPOT,
43, Grainger Street, NEWCASTLE-ON-TYNE.
WARD, LOCK & CO.’S
Eatltoair & Utramrr Dimtorij.
INDEX
RAILWAYS—
page|
South Eastern and
Chatham Railway... 13^
West and South Clare
Railways ... ... 20*
RAILWAYS—
PAGE
Belgian State Railway 12*
Caledonian Railway ... 2*
Cambrian Railway ... 19*
District Railway ... 16*
Festiniog Railway ... 18*
Furness Railway ... 5*
Glasgow and South
Western Railway ... 8*
Great Eastern Railway 10*
Great Northern Railway 7*
Great Western Railway 11*
Highland Railway ... 9*
STEAMERS—
Batavier Line.., ... 25*
The Bibby Line ... 28*
British & Irish Steam-
packet Co 21*
Dr. Lunn s Cruises ... 22*
Elder, Dempster & Co. 27*
Isle of Wight Railway 15*
Lancashire & Yorkshire
Railway ... ... 17*
London and North
Western Railway ... 3*
London and South
Western Railway ... 14*
Midland Railway ... 4*
North British Railway 6*
Curtiss & Sons, Ltd ,
Leith, Hull, and Ham-
burg Steampacket Co. 22*
Liverpool and North
Wales Steamship
Co., Ltd 25*
London & Edinburgh
Shipping Co. ... 24*
MacBrayne s, D. ... 23*
General Steam Navi-
gation Company ... 32*
Depositories ... 26*
Guide Series 1905-6
2
Railway Routes
2*
CALEDONIAN RAILWAY.
♦
THE PREMIER TOURIST ROUTE OF SCOTLAND.
Over 150 Summer Tours by Rail, Coach, and Steamer.
Tourist Programmes and Descriptive Guides on application to —
Mr. G. CALTHROP, 302, Buchanan Street, Glasgow.
THE CLYDE COAST.
Daily
New and
Island of Arran
Pleasure Excursions
Popular Route.
and
from EDINBURGH
GLASGOW
Western Highlands,
(Princes St.) and
(Central)
Via GOUROCK,
GLASGOW
to
„ WEMYSS BAY,
(Buchanan St.) to
LOCH LOMOND
„ ARDROSSAN.
THE TR0S3ACHS,
and
—
LOCH EARN,
THE TROSSACHS,
Daily
CRIEFF, LOCH TAY,
uia
Pleasure Sailings.
LOCH AWE, &C.
BALLOCH.
SHORTEST, QUICKEST, AND BEST ROUTE
By “GRAMPIAN CORRIDOR”
From EDINBURGH (Princes Street) and GLASGOW (Buchanan
Street) to Stirling, Callander, Oban, Ballachulish,
Fort William, Perth, Dundee, Aberdeen, Inverness, and the
North of Scotland.
FREQUENT EXPRESS TRAIN SERVICE,
GLASGOW (Central) and EDINBURGH (Princes Street)-
65 minutes journey.
WEST COAST (ROYAL MAIL) ROUTE
BETWEEN
Scotland. £c En g land.
I EDINBURGH (Princes Street) in 8 hours
GLASGOW (Central) in 8 hours
LONDON (Euston) and OBAN in 13 hours
j ABERDEEN ... in 111 hours
(INVERNESS in 13 hours
IMPROVED EXPRESS TRAIN SERVICE
BETWEEN
Liverpool Manclxester
AND
GLASGOW (Central), Edinburgh (Princes Street), and all
parts of Scotland.
Corridor Carriages, with Luncheon, Dining, and Tea Cars, on all
THROUGH DAY EXPRESS TRAINS.
NEW AND IMPROVED SLEEPING SALOONS
(The finest in Europe — Awarded Grand Prix, St. Louis Exhibition). Rugs
and Pillows supplied to Passengers at a charge of 6 d. each.
Tourists are respectfully reminded that when travelling from England to
Stirling, Callander, Oban, Perth, Dundee, and Inverness, they can
go to Edinburgh (Capital of Scotland) and break their journey there with-
out extra charge or inconvenience. The Caledonian Company’s Trains from
London (Euston) arrive at Edinburgh (Princes Street), where the Com-
pany have a New Hotel, and from where they start their service of trains, in-
cluding the * Grampian Corridor,’ for all the important Towns in the North.
Glasgow, 1905 . R. MILLAR, General Manager.
Railway Routes
3*
LONDON & NORTH-WESTERN RAILWAY.
QUICKEST & MOST COMFORTABLE ROUTE
BETWEEN LONDON AND
(EUSTON)
BIRMINGHAM, MANCHESTER, LIVERPOOL,
IRELAND, and the NORTH.
Sleeping Saloons, fitted with every modern convenience, are provided
on the principal night trains.
Breakfast, Luncheon, Tea, and Dining Cars are run on the
principal day trains.
Hot or Cold Luncheons in Baskets are provided at the 1 principal
stations, 3s. including beer or wine, and 2s. 6d. without.
Tea Baskets, containing a Pot of Tea, Bread and Butter, and Cake,
can be obtained at Preston, Lancaster, Llandudno Junction. Builth Road,
Crewe, Birmingham (New Street), Coventry, Rugby, and Northampton,
price is. each.
Rugs and Pillows may be obtained by passengers travelling by the
Night Trains. Charge 6d. each for Rug or Pillow.
Luggage collected, forwarded in advance, and delivered, at
a charge of Is. per package.
WEST COAST (ROYAL MAIL) ROUTE
BETWEEN
ENGLAND and SCOTLAND.
( EDINBURGH in 8 hours.
LONDON (Euston) ! GLASGOW „ 8 „
and 1 ABERDEEN „ 111 „
' INVERNESS „ \3h „
Corridor Trains with Refreshment and Dining Cars between
London and Edinburgh, Glasgow, Perth, and Aberdeen.
Every information as to trains and fares can be obtained on application
to Mr. Robert Turnbull, Superintendent of the Line, Euston Station,
London, N.W. FREDERICK HARRISON, General Manager.
Euston Station, 1905.
4*
Railway Routes
Midland
Railway.
THE
BEST ROUTE
FOR
Comfortable Travel
AND
Picturesque Scenery
TO AND FROM THE
PRINCIPAL TOWNS & HOLIDAY RESORTS
OF
GREAT BRITAIN
AND
NORTH OF IRELAND.
| M
Pocket Time Tables and Programmes (also Illustrated
Guides, and Lists of Furnished Apartments in Country
and Seaside Districts during the Season) may' be had
FREE on application to any MIDLAND STATION
MASTER or DISTRICT SUPERINTENDENT.
JOHN MATHIESON, General Manager.
Railway Routes
rOKNKSS RAILWAY.
Twenty Coach and Steam Yacht Tours
THROUGH ENGLISH LAKELAND
DAILY during JUNE, JULY, AUGUST, and SEPTEMBER.
REDUCTION IN FARES.
No. t. — Outer Circular lour,
embracing Windermere Lake, Fur-
ness Abbey, and Coniston. — Fare
from 5/3.
No. 2. — Inner Circular Tour,
embracing Furness Abbey, Coniston
Lake (Gondola), and Crake Val-
ley.— Fare from 3/3.
No. 3.— Grange and Windermere
Circular Tour, embracing Grange,
Arnside, Kendal, and Windermere
Lake. — Fare from 2/9.
No. 4.- Middle Circular Tour,
embracing Windermere Lake, the
Crake Valley, and Coniston Lake. —
Fare from 5/9.
No. 5.— Red Bank and Grasmere
Tour, via Ambleside and Skelwith
Force, returning via Rydal Water.
--Fare from 2/9.
No. 6. — Thirl mere, Grasmere,
and Windermere Tour, via
Ambleside, Clappersgate, and Red
Bank, and round Thirlmere Lake. —
Fare from 5/-
No. 7.— The Four Lakes Circular
Tour, viz., Coniston, Grasmere,
Rydal, and Windermere. — Fare
from 5/9.
No. 8.— Coniston to Coniston
Tour, via Red Bank, Grasmere,
and Ambleside, returning by Coach
to Coniston. — Fare from 4/6.
No. 9— Tarn Hows Tour, via Am-
bleside and Coniston, returning by
Tilberthwaite and Elterwater. —
Fare from 4/6.
No. 10.— Round the Langdales
and Dungeon Ghyll Tour, via
Ambleside, Col with Force, Gras-
mere, and Rydal. — Fare from 5/-.
No. II.— Ullswater Tour, via. Am-
bleside, Kirkstone Pass, and
Brothers Water, returning via the
Vale of Troutbeck and Lowwood.—
Fare from 5/6.
No. 12. — Derwentwater (Kes-
wick) Tour, via Ambleside, Gras-
mere, and Thirlmere. — Farefrom f /■.
No. 13.— The Five Lakes Circular
Tour, viz., Windermere, Rydal,
Giasmere, Thirlmere, and Derweni-
water. — Fare from 1 1/6.
No. 14.— Wastwater Tour, via Sea-
scale and Gosforth. — Fare from 4/6.
No. 15.— The Six Lakes Circular
Tour, viz., Windermere, Rydal,
Grasmere, Thirlmere, Derwent-
water, & Ullswater. — Farefrom 12/-.
No. 1 6. —The Duddon Valley Tour,
via Broughton-in- Furness, Ulpha,
and Seathwaite. — Fare from 3/9.
*No. 17. — ' The Three Waterfalls
Tour (Colwith, Dungeon Ghyll,
and Skelwith), via Coniston and the
Langdales. — Fare from 4/9.
*No. 18.— Ennerdale Lake and
Calder Abbey Tour, via Seascale,
Gosforth, & Cold Fell. — Farefr. 4/6.
No. 19.— Across the Ferry Tour,
via Lake Side, Esthwaite Water,
Hawkshead, and Storrs Hall. — Fare
from 3/6.
No. 20.— Cartmel Priory and
Newby Bridge Tour, via Winder-
mere (Lake Side), Backbarrow Falls,
Holker Park, and Grange. — Fare
from 3/- [* Commence 1st July.
For further particulais see “Tours through Lakeland’’ Pamphlets, to
be had gratis at all Furness Railway Stations ; of Mr. F. J. Ramsden, Super-
intendent of the Line, Barrow-in-Furness ; at Messrs. Thos. Cook & Son’s, and
the Polytechnic Institute, Regent Street, W. ; or Messrs. W. H. Smith & Sons’
principal Bookstalls. Price Jd.
Barrow with Fleetwood for Blackpool.— During the Summer months
the Furness Railway Company’s Paddle Steamer “ Lady Margaret ” or “ Lady
Evelyn” will run daily between Barrow and Fleetwood for Blackpool. Full
particulars as to Sailings, Fares, etc., may Le obtained on application to the
Superintendent of the Line, Barrow-in-Furness; or from Messrs. Thos. Cook
& Son’s Manchester, Blackpool, and other Agencies.
The Palette Album, illustrating the above Tours, in colours, can be ob-
tained at the principal Railway Bookstalls, price 6d.
Picture Postcards Of the Lake District may be obtained at any station
on the Furness Railway, and on the Company’s Steamers ; also at Furness
Abbey Hotel and the principal Bookstalls. Reduced price, 12 cards for 6d.
ALFRED ASLETT,
Barrow-in-Furness, June , 1905. Secretary and General Manager.
6*
Railway Routes
NORTH BRITISH RAILWAY.
TfHE NORTH BRITISH RAILWAY SYSTEM is the most extensive in Scotland,
vl' It directly serves all the most important districts of the Country, and by arrange-
ments with other Railway Companies, with whom it is in alliance, or over whose lines it
possesses Running Powers, provides convenient and expeditious Through Communica-
tion with all parts of the United Kingdom.
THE MOST DIRECT AND POPULAR ROUTE to the
WEST HIGHLANDS, OBAN, PORTREE, STORNOWAY, &c.,
is by the West Highland Line, by which there is an ample and expeditious Service of
Trains, having Through Carriages from London and Edinburgh during the summer, and
from Glasgow all the year round, to Fort- William, and vice jersa, and connecting at Oban,
Fort-William, Banavie, and Mallaig, with Mr. David MacBrayne's Steamers to and
from the Hebrides, Inverness, Caledonian Canal, Portree, Stornoway, &c.
THE COMPANY possesses the SHORTEST ROUTE to and from
the NORTH, via the FORTH and TAY BRIDGES,
and Through Express Trains are run daily between Edinburgh (Waverley and
Haymarket Stations) and Dunfermline, Alloa, Stirling, and Perth, vid the Forth Bridge,
and between Edinburgh (Waverley and Haymarket Stations), and Glasgow (Queen Street
Station) & Dundee, Arbroath, Montrose, Aberdeen, Ac., vid the Forth & Tay Bridges.
Through Carriages are also run between Edinburgh & Inverness, via the Forth Bridge.
EDINBURGH and GLASGOW.
A Complete Service of Express Trains at frequent intervals is run between Edinburgh
(Waverley & Haymarket Stations) & Glasgow (Queen Street Station), passengers having
the choice of two routes, viz., vid Linlithgow & Falkirk, or vid Airdrie and Coatbridge.
FAST STEAMERS SAIL from and to CRAIGENDORAN PIER
in connection with the Company’s trains, which run alongside the pier; thereby afford-
ing convenient access to the various Watering Places on the Clyde, Greenock, the
Gareloch, Loch Long, Holy Loch, the Kyles of Bute, the Islands of Bute and Arran, &c.
These steamers also connect during the summer with the “Columba,” “Iona,
“Lord of the Isles,” and Arran steamers.
EXPRESS SERVICE WITH ENGLAND.
The East Coast royal Mail Route is the shortest and most popular.
Express Trains are run daily from Aberdeen, Montrose, Arbroath, Dundee (Tay
Bridge Station), vid Tay and Forth Bridges; Perth, Dunfermline, Alloa, and Stirling,
vid Forth Bridge; Glasgow (Queen Street), and Edinburgh (Waverley Station), to
Berwick, Newcastle, York, Leeds, Peterborough, London (King’s Cross Station), and
vice versd. Many of the carriages on tnis route are built on the corridor principle.
The Waverley ROUTE.— The Waverley Route between Scotland and London
(St. Pancras) is the most interesting and attractive, and the only route which enables
tourists to visit Melrose (for Melrose Abbey and Abbotsford), St. Boswells (for Dry-
burgh Abbey), and the Scott Country. Express Trains are run daily from Aberdeen,
Montrose, Arbroath, Dundee (Tay Bridge Station), vid Tay and Forth Bridges: Perth,
Dunfermline, Alloa, and Stirling, vid the Forth Bridge; and Edinburgh (Waverley
Station), to Carlisle, Manchester, Liverpool, Leeds, Sheffield, Birmingham, Bristol,
Bournemouth, London (St. Pancras), &c., and vice versd.
First and Third Class Dining Trains,— Corridor Trains containing First and
Third Class Dining Saloons, run daily between Edinburgh (Waverley) and London
(King's Cross and St. Pancras).
Sleeping Carriages, and First and Third Class Lavatory Carriages, are run by both
the above routes. Sleeping berths may be secured on application to Mr. D.
DEUCHARS, Superintendent of the Line, Edinburgh.
RAIL, COACH, and STEAMER CIRCULAR TOURS
To Inverness, Fort-William (for Ben Nevis), Caledonian Canal, West Highlands,
Mallaig, Isle of Skye, Oban, Firth of Clyde, Aberfoyle, Trossachs, Loch Katrine,
and Loch Lomond. Tickets for Circular Tours, embracing the above-mentioned places,
are issued at Edinburgh (Waverley and Haymarket Stations), Glasgow (Queen Street^
and all other Principal Stations on the North British Railway.
SALOON AND FAMILY CARRIAGES AND RESERVED COMPARTMENTS are provided
for the conveyance of families or invalids, on terms which may be ascertained on appli-
cation to the Superintendent of the Line, Edinburgh.
HOTELS. -North British Station Hotel, Edinburgh. —This magnificent and well-
appointed Hotel, owned and managed by the North British Railway Company, is
situated in Princes Street, and communicates by Lift with Waverley Station. It is
Fire-proof throughout. Telegraphic Address, “ British, Edinburgh.” Station Hotel,
Perth.— This Hotel adjoins the Station, and is furnished in the most modern style, re-
plete with every comfort. Telegraphic Address, “ Station Hotel, Perth.” North
British Station Hotel, Glasgow — This Hotel, which adjoins Queen Street Station, is
in course of being redecorated and refurnished, and will be opened about the
beginning of May. under the direct management of the North British Railway Com-
pany Telegraphic Address, “Attractive, Glasgow.” Apartments, etc., can be
ordered, free of charge, by Telegraph, on Passengers handing a Memorandum of their
requirements to the Station Master or other Official at any of the principal Stations, or to
the Conductor or Guard of the Train. The Hotel Porters at the above-mentioned
Hotels attend the trains and convey Luggage, free of charge, to or from the Hotels.
For Particulars of lours. Fares, and General Arrangements, see the Company s Time
'Tables and Tourist Programme, copies of luhich may be obtained from any of the
Stationmasters, or from Mr. D. DEUCHARS, Superintendent of the Line, kdinburgh.
Edinburgh, 1905. W. F. JACKSON, General Manager.
Railway Routes
GREAT NORTHERN RAILWAY
Direct Service of Express Trains
TO
CAMBRIDGE. CROMER. DERBY.
LEICESTER. NOTTINGHAM.
SHEFFIELD. STOCKPORT.
MANCHESTER. LIVERPOOL.
WAKEFIELD. LEEDS.
HUDDERSFIELD.
BRADFORD. HALIFAX.
HULL. YORK.
SLEEPING
CARRIAGES
ATTACHED TO AI.L
NIGHT TRAINS
TO SCOTLAND.
AND ALL PARTS OF THE
NORTH OF
ENGLAND
AND
SCOTLAND.
First and Third Class
Carriages of the most
improved description, fitted
with Lavatories, Lighted by Gas,
and heated by Steam in Winter, are
attached to all the Express Trains.
BREAKFAST, LUNCHEON,
and DINING CARS
are attached to certain of the Express Trains
running between London and Leeds ;
London and Bradford ; London, Notting-
ham and Sheffield; London and Edinburgh
(Waverley); London and Aberdeen.
Time Tables, Tourist and Week-end
Programmes, and lists of Farmhouse and
Country Lodgings to be let during the sum-
mer months, may be obtained on application at
Great Northern Stations and Town Offices, or of the
Chief Passenger Agent, King’s Cross Station, N.
OLIVER BURY,
London (King's Cross), May, 1905.
General Manager.
8*
Railway Routes
GLASGOW & SOUTH-WESTERN RAILWAY.
SCOTLAND AND ENGLAND.
'T'HE GLASGOW and SOUTH-WESTERN RAILWAY COMPANY
1 gives, a Direct Route between Scotland and England, con-
necting at Carlisle with the Midland Railway, the principal Termini
being St. Enoch, Glasgow, and St. Pancras, London ; and a Full
and Expeditious Service is given between Glasgow, Paisley, Greenock,
Ayr, Ardrossan, Kilmarnock, Dumfries, &c,, and Liverpool, Manchester,
Bradford, Leeds, Sheffield, Bristol, Bath, Birmingham, London, &c.
DINING CARS (First and Third Class) by the Morning and Afternoon
Expresses, and SLEEPING CARS by the Night Expresses, in each
direction, between Gi.asgow (St. Enoch) and London (St. Pancras).
New and Improved CORRIDOR CARRIAGES with LAVATORY
Accommodation by all the trains.
Passengers between Scotland and England by this, the most
Picturesque Route, pass through the heart of the Burns Country,
and holders of Tourist Tickets to and from Glasgow, or North thereof,
are allowed to travel via Ayr (Burns’ Birthplace). Tickets are also
valid for break of journey at Dumfries (Burns’ Burial-place).
CLYDE WATERING PLACES.
The Glasgow and South-Western Line to Princes Pier Station,
Greenock, is the most convenient for Visitors to the Watering Places
on the Firth of Clyde and Western Highlands and the Islands of
Scotland, to and from which places regular connections are main-
tained by the Company’s magnificent Fleet of Steamers, “ Glen Sannox,”
“Juno,” “Jupiter,” “Mars,” “Mercury,” “Neptune,” “Minerva,”
“Glen Rosa,” “Vulcan,” and “Viceroy,” as also by the “Columba,”
“ Lord of the Isles,” “ Isle of Arran,” and Turbine Steamers, “ King
Edward” and “Queen Alexandra.”
All Passengers’ Luggage is removed from the Trains to the Steamers,
and vice versiX , free of charge, by a special staff of attendants provided
by the Company.
Passengers holding Through Tickets to or from England have the
option of visiting Glasgow en route.
ISLAND OF ARRAN, MILLPORT, & CAMPBELTOWN.
The most direct and expeditious route to the far-famed Island Of
Arran is by the Company’s new swift Paddle Steamer “Glen Sannox,”
via Ardrossan ; and to Millport, Campbeltown, &c., via Fairlie, where
the Company’s Trains run alongside the Steamers.
AYRSHIRE COAST and THE LAND 0’ BURNS.
Passengers desirous of visiting the Ayrshire Coast Towns and places on
the Company’s Line, which are full of associations of the Poet Burns,
and famous in history and romance, will find that the Company provide
an excellent service of Express Trains from Glasgow and Paisley, com-
posed of carriages of the most modern type, to Kilwinning, Stevenston,
Saltcoats, Ardrossan, West Kilbride, Fairlie, Largs, Irvine, Troon,
Prestwick, and Ayr, all of which places can be reached within the hour.
There is also a service of Fast Trains to Maybole, Girvan, Pinmore,
Pinwherry, Barrhill, New Luce, and Stranraer. From Stranraer
Steamboat connections are formed to Ireland, via Larne, the open sea
passage being only 80 minutes.
FAMOUS GOLFING LINKS. — Golfers will find Links of the
highest order at Bridge of Weir, Kilmacolm, Johnstone, Stevenston,
West Kilbride, Largs, Bogside, Gailes Barassie, Troon, Prestwick, and
Turnberry (Girvan). For descriptive notes on the various Links served
by the Company’s Trains, see the Guide to the Golfing Resorts, issued
by the Company, free of charge.
HOTELS. The Company have Hotels at Glasgow (St. Enoch), Ayr,
and Dumfries, under their own management. These Hotels will be
found replete with all modern conveniences and comforts. Excellent
cuisine and a moderate tariff existing throughout.
Glasgow, 1905. DAVID COOPER, General Manager.
Railway Routes
9*
THE HIGHLAND RAILWAY.
Holiday Resorts in the Highlands of Scotland:—
Dunkeld, Pitlochry, Aberfeldy, Blair Atholl, Kingussie,
Aviemore, Carr Bridge, Boat of Garten, Grantown, Forres,
Elgin, Nairn, Inverness (the Capital of the Highlands),
Beauly, Fortrose, Dingwall, Strathpeffer Spa, Garve,
Achnasheen (for Loch Maree), Kyle of Lochalsh (for
Portree, Stornoway, &c.), Tain, Lairg, Dornoch, Golspie,
Helmsdale, Wick, Thurso, and Lybster.
For Fishing, Golfing, Shooting, Excursions by Steamer or
Coach, or for quiet resting, the Highlands are unsur-
passed. The Scenery is delightful in variety ; the Climate
bracing and wholesome.
All the above Stations are on the Highland Railway,
and Passengers should obtain Tickets by the Highland
Route, via DUNKELD. During the Tourist Season
Tickets are issued at all the principal Stations in England
and Scotland.
The Railway from SPEAN BRIDGE to INVERGARRY and FORT
AUGUSTUS was opened in July, 1903, and provides new
ground for Visitors in a most interesting and romantic part
of the Highlands.
For Fares, Times of Trains, Through Carriages, &c., see the Company’s
Time Tables, sent to any address on application.
STATION HOTEL, INVERNESS
Belonging to the Company, is a First-class Family and
Commercial Hotel. It adjoins the Station and occupies
the most central position in the Town. Grill Room in
connection.
The Company’s Station Hotel at KYLE Of LOCHALSH is convenient for
Tourists en route to the ISLE of SKYE, STORNOWAY, and the
WESTERN ISLANDS.
The Company’s NEW STATION HOTEL at DORNOCH, SUTIIER-
LANDSHIRE, is now open (DORNOCH is the paradise of the Goiter).
Passengers can secure Apartments by Telegraph, FREE Of CHARGE, by
applying to any of the Station Officials on the Line, and giving their
Name and Address in writing.
T. A. WILSON, General Manager,
Inverness, 1905.
Railway Routes
GREAT E ASTERN RAILWAY
SEASIDE, and BROADS and RIVERS of
NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK,
CHEAP TICKETS ARE ISSUED AS UNDER BY ALL TRAINS.
KKIDAY OH
FORTNIGHTLY.
LIVERPOOL STREET
SATURDAY TILL
TUESDAY.
Available for
15 Days.
TOURIST.
FENCHURCHSTREET
to
A
B
C
ist Cl.
3 rd CL
ist Cl.
3 rd Cl.
ist Cl. i
3 rd Cl.
Southend on-Sea
6 /-
3/6
7/-
4/4
(via Shenfield)
*Burnham-on-Cr’ch ...
6 /-
3/6
7/-
4/4
8/8
4/4
LIVERPOOL ST. to
Clacton-on-Sea ... )
Frinton-on-Sea ... f
Walton-on-Naze ...
Dovercourt 1
Harwich )
13/6
7/6
17/6
10 /-
20 /-
12 /-
Felixstowe
13/6
8 /-
17/6
10 /-
23/4
14/3
Aldeburgh
16/-
10 /-
25/-
13/-
27/9
16/9
Southwold
22 /-
11 /-
27/6
15/-
31/3
18/5 |
LIVERPOOL STREET
or ST. PANCRAS to
LOWestOft (Central) ...
22 /-
11 /-
27/6
15/-
33/-
|
19/9
Gorleston-on-Sea ...
22 -
11 /-
27/6
15/-
34/-
20 /-
Yarmouth
22 /-
11 /-
27/6
15/-
34/-
20 /- |
Cromer
22 /-
11 /-
27/6
15/-
34/-
20 /-
Mundesley-on-Sea ...
22 /-
11 /-
27/6
15/-
34/-
20 /-
Hunstanton
16/-
10 /-
25/-
13/-
30/6
18/-
Norwich
31/10
18/11 1
A. Friday to Tuesday Tickets are issued every Friday and Saturday, and are
available for return by any of the advertised trains on the day of issue or on
any day up to and including the Tuesday following the date of issue.
B. Fortnightly Tickets are issued daily, and are available for return by any of the
advertised trains on any day within fifteen days, including the days of issue
and return.
C. Tourist Tickets are issued daily throughout the year by any train, and are
available for the return journey by any train on any day within six calendar
months from the date of issue. Those issued during May and June will be
available up to 31st December. 1905.
♦Fortnightly and Tourist Tickets to Burnham-on-Crouch are issued only
from May to October inclusive.
Friday to Tuesday, Fortnightly, and Tourist Tickets to the above seaside stations
are also issued at Great Eastern stations within twelve miles of London, and at the
stations on the East London Line, at the same fares as from Liverpool Street. For full
particulars see the Company’s Time Book and Handbills.
RESIDENTIAL SEASON TICKETS at cheap rates are issued between Liverpool
Street and Southend, Clacton. Walton-on-Naze, Dovercourt, Harwich and Felixstowe,
for periods of One Week, Two Weeks, One Month, Three Months, Six Months,
and Twelve Months. Full particulars may be obtained of the Secretary, Liverpool
Street Station.
S3T Pamphlets on the Holiday Resorts in the Eastern Counties
and the Broads District of Norfolk and Suffolk, and Seaside,
Farmhouse, and Country Lodgings and Hotel Guide, can
be obtained gratis and post free on application to the
Superintendent of the Line, Liverpool Street Station.
J. F. S. GOODAY, General Manager.
Liverpool Street Station, London, E.C., May, 1905.
Railway Routes
ii*
GREAT WESTERN RAILWAY
RAPID AND LUXURIOUS TRAVEL
TO ALL PARTS OF THE
Great Western Railway and Railways in Connection.
BREAKFAST.
LUNCHEON,
DINING, and
SLEEPING CARS.
SMOOTHEST
Running Track in the
WORLD.
UP TO DATE
TRAINS,
With every convenience.
EXPRESS SERVICES
TO AND FROM
Penzance
I Newquay
I Plymout 1
I Torquay
I Weymouth
I Tenby
I Hereford
1 Chester
etc.
Falmouth
St. Ives
Exeter
Ilfracombe
Cardiff
Birmingham
Cheltenham
Stratford-on-Avon
et . , etc.
TRAVEL
BY THE
Great Western Railway
To the
By the
In the
On the
BEST
Places.
Routes.
Trains.
Line.
CHEAP FARES
Ordinary , Tourist 9 and Week-end Tickets
all the Year Hound «
EXCURSIONS during Summer Months to
THE
—
BEAUTIFUL
Dorset, Somerset, Corn-
CHARMING
wall, Devon, Sth. Wales,
SOUTH
CORNISH
North & Central Wales,
OF
Midland Counties, &c.
RIVIERA.
IRELAND.
Luggage in Advance. i ABC
and other
Tickets in
Advance. 1 1
riME TABLES
MAXIMUM I
RAPID
MINIMUM
COMFORT ! ! ! 1
TRAVEL.
COST ! ! !
For information upon all matters affecting the Great Western Railway,
send postcard to Mr. J. Morris, Superintendent of the Line, Paddington
Station, or to Enquiry Office, Paddington Station, W.
JAMES C. INGLIS, General Manager.
Railway Routes
is*
CHEAPEST RAILWAY TICKETS
IN THE WORLD.
BELGIAN STATE RAILWAY
AND MAIL PACKET SERYICE.
THE CONTINENT
VIA
DOVER & OSTEND.
Three Departures Daily in each direction.
Sea Passage, Three Hours.
Official Agency of the German Railway Union
for the issue of
“ RUNDREISE ” (Combined Tour) TICKETS
for any route required over the Belgian, German,
French, Swiss, Italian, Austrian, Turkish, Dutch,
Danish, Norwegian, and Swedish Lines Descriptive
pamphlet and specimen quotation will be supplied
free on application.
FORTNIGHTLY SEASON TICKETS are also in
issue, enabling the holder to travel all over Belgium
on the State Lines, and including one sea passage
each way between DOVER and OSTEND.
Prices. — ist class, £3 3s. Od. ; 2nd class, £2 4s. Od.‘ ;
3rd class, £1 10s. 5d.
CHEAP EXCURSION TICKETS during the season
to OSTEND, BRUSSELS, ANTWERP, via
Brussels, and LIEGE (Exhibition) at Less than
Single Fares.
For full particulars and tickets dated in advance, apply to
the Belgian Mail Packet Offices—
In LONDON : 53, Gracechurch Street, E.C.
72, Regent Street, W.
In DOVER : Friend & Co , Northumberland House,
also on the Dover Admiralty Pier.
Railway Routes
13*
SOUTH-EASTERN & CHATHAM RAILWAY.
ROYAL MAIL EXPRESS SERVICES
TO THE
CONTINENT
VIA
Dover Folkestone Queenboro Dover
Calais * Boulogne Flushing * Ostend
LONDON & PARIS & 7 HOURS
BY THE
SHORT SEA AND MAIL ROUTES.
The New Turbine Steamers “ Jnvicta,” “ Onward, and “ The Queen,”
cross the Channel daily between Dover and Calais, also between
Folkestone and Boulogne.
RESTAURANT CARS BETWEEN CALAIS AND BOULOGNE
AND PARIS.
FRIDAY, SATURDAY, and SUNDAY,
to MONDAY or TUESDAY TICKETS
ARE ISSUED FROM
CHARING CRJSS (West End), CANNON ST, & LONDON BRIDGE
TO
Bexhill, Canterbury West, Deal. Dover, Folkestone
Central, Folkestone Junction, Hastings, Hythe, Lydd,
Maidstone, Margate, New Romney (Littlestone-on-Sea),
Ramsgate, Rye, St Lawrence, St. Leonards-on-Sea
(Warrior Square), Sandgate, Sandhng Junction, Sand-
wich, Shorncliffe Camp, Southborough, Tonbridge,
Tunbridge Wells, Walmer, and Whitstable-on-Sea.
ALSO FROM
VICTORIA (West End), HOLBORN VIADUCT,
and ST. PAUL’S to
Bexhill, Birchington-on-Sea, Broadstairs, Canterbury
East, Deal, Dover, Faversham, Hastings, Herne Bay,
Maidstone, Margate, Ramsgate, St Leonards, Sheer-
ness, Sittingbourne (for Milton). Tunbridge Wells,
Walmer, Westgate*on-Sea, and Whitstable-on Sea
For Fares and further particul »rs respecting the Cheap Tickets, see
time-books and programme. VINCENT W. HILL, General Manager,
14 *
Railway Routes
London and South Western Railway.
THE SHORTEST, QUICKEST, AND BEST
ROUTE between LONDON
... AND THE ...
7VT T?QT OF ENGLAND
VlWI-Ei U X ILFRACOMBE, &c.
SOUTH
COAST
WEYMOUTH,
4 Routes
to
the
ISLE of WIGHT
THA.VEL A.3STY
...AND...
BREAKFAST, LUNCH.
Between BOURNEMOUTH ! WEST of ENGLAND
^ and WATERLOO STATION
EXPRESS TRAINS from WATERLOO STATION
1 — 6
BOURNEMOUTH
PLYMOUTH
mm CO
0 "■ °
PORTSMOUTH
SIDMOUTH
n -- 2o
SOUTHSEA
SEATON
4 - o
™ — 45
ISLE OF WIGHT
LYME REGIS
■ — io
S* — 1 5
EXETER
ILFRACOMBE
pm — 44
0 - 58
EXMOUTH
BUDE
K - 26
O “I*
SWANAGE
BIDEFORD
0 - °
WEYMOUTH
BARNSTAPLE
V — o
e— =
LYNTON
PADSTOW
6-26
Corridor Coaches.
Saloon,
Ladies' Compartments. Lavatory Compartments. Invalid,
fc Family Carriages provided. Luggage in Advance.
STEAMSHIP SERVICES
FROM SOUTHAMPTON TO THE FRENCH COAST,
FOR PARIS AND ALL PARTS OF THE CONTINENT,
CHANNEL ISLANDS, Etc,
Express Boat Trains from LONDON ( Waterloo ) in connection.
SOUTH-WESTERN HOTEL, SOUTHAMPTON, Under the Company’s Management.
l*or particulars of above, also Tourist and Excursion arrangements, >tainable at any
of the Company’s Stations, or upon application to Mr. Henry Holmes, Superintendent
of the Line, Waterloo Station, S.E. CHAS. J. OWENS, General Manager.
Railway Routes
15*
DECIDE TO SPEND YOUR HOLIDAYS
IN
THE ISLE OF WIGHT
(THE GARDEN OF ENGLAND).
WARM IN WINTER. COOL IN SUMMER.
Fashionable Watering Places, Combined with
Quiet Seaside Resorts.
Unrivalled Golfing Facilities. Nine Golf Linhs within a
radius of Nine Miles.
CHARMING & VARIED SCENERY.
BEAUTIFUL WALKS & DRIVES.
The Best and Safest Bathing in the British Isles.
BEAUTIFUL SAN US.
SAFE BOATING. YACHTING. COLFINC.
FISHING (FRESH AND SALT WATER).
Osborne Now Open to the Public every Tuesday & Friday.
Cheap Bookings from all Island Stations to Cowes and Whippingham
Stations (from which Osborne is easy of access).
DURING THE SEASON
Cheap railway excursions to all parts daily. Weekly Tickets, covering
use of all trains and all railways in the island (except Ryde Pier)
for seven days are issued at exceptionally low prices.
Pleasant and cheap steamboat excursions almost daily, round the
island and to Bournemouth, Weymouth, Swanage, Southampton, Southsea,
and Portsmouth (the first naval yard in the world;.
Good hotels, boarding and lodging houses, in all parts of the island at
reasonable charges.
The principal towns and places of interest are Ryde, Cowes, Sandown,
Shanklin, Ventnor, Freshwater, Totland Bay, Alum Bay, Newport, Caris-
brooke, Osborne, Bonchurch, The Landslip, The Undercliff, Bembridge,
St. Helen’s, Brading.
Visitors can reach the island by frequent express trains from Waterloo,
Victoria, London Bridge, Kensington, Clapham Junction, &c., either via
Portsmouth and Ryde, Stokes Bay and Ryde, or Southampton and Cowes.
Well-appointed steamers connect at Ryde and Cowes with trains.
Free transfer of luggage between the boats and trains.
Through tickets to all island stations, 1st, 2nd, and 3rd class, from all
stations on the South-Western and South Coast Railways. During the
summer season, May 1st to September 30th, Tourist Tickets, available
for six months, are issued from Waterloo, Victoria, London Bridge,
Kensington, Clapham Junction, &c. Also Eight and Fifteen Day Tickets
at a fare of 11 /- (3rd class).
Cheap Week-End Tickets are also issued all the year round, by all
trains, on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays, available for return by any
train on any day (except on Fridays and Saturdays) up to and including
the following Tuesday, at the following fares — 1st class return, 23/6 ; 2nd
class return, 15 /- ; 3rd class return, 12/-
List of Apartments and accommodation at the various Island Watering
Places, also Guide, on application to
H. K. DAY, Manager, I.W. Railway.
CHAS. L. CONACHER, Manager, I.W. Central Railway.
July , 1905 .
Railway Routes
io*
THE
DISTRICT RAILWAY,
EITHER BY ITS OWN LINE
OR BY ITS CONNECTIONS, SERVES
THE WHOLE OF THE
PLAGES OF AMUSEMENT,
INTEREST, AND ATTRACTION,
IN AND AROUND LONDON.
It is the most direct Sc quickest means of
conveyance A between
\east enq ^qz
WEST END<
And it Connects with the
TERMINI OF ALL THE RAILWAYS
RUNNING INTO LONDON.
The “DISTRICT RAILWAY’ MAP of LONDON and the
“DISTRICT ’ MAP of GREATER LONDON and ENVIRONS, are
obtainable at the Company’s Booking Offices, at Station Bookstalls, and of
the Principal Booksellers throughout the Kingdom. Price 6d. (on Paper),
is. Mounted (in Stiff Cover), 3s. 6d. Mounted, Rollered, and Varnished.
Railway Routes
17*
LANCASHIRE & YORKSHIRE RAILWAY
DIRECT EXPRESS ROUTE BETWEEN
THE EAST ANB WEST COASTS .
THROUGH FAST TRAINS between Liverpool, Manchester, and
A Principal Lancashire Towns, and HALIFAX, BRADFORD, LEEDS,
HARROGATE, GOOLE, HULL, YORK, SCARBOROUGH, and NEW-
CASTLE, in direct communication with Express Trains to and from all
parts of the North-Eastern system. Express Service between
LIVERPOOL and MANCHESTER in forty minutes.
AN EXCELLENT SERVICE OF TRAINS
is in operation between the Principal Stations in Lancashire and Yorkshire,
and BLACKPOOL, LYTHAM, SOUTHPORT, and SCOTLAND. Fast
Trains run via Preston, and via Hellifield, to all parts of Scotland.
Through Lavatory Carriages run between Liverpool (Exchange),
Ma Chester (Victoria) and Harwich, in connection with the Continental
Boats, via Ilarwich and the Hook of Holland, Rotterdam, and
Antwerp.
During the Summer months through express trains are run between
Manchester (Victoria) and Sheringham and Cromer (Beach).
ROYAL MAIL ROUTE to THE NORTH of IRE-
LAND, via Fleetwood, Belfast, & Londonderry.
The L. & V. and L. & N. W. Company’s Royal Mail Twin-screw Steamers
sail daily (Sundays excepted), between Fleetwood and Belfast, open sea
passage 5% hours, also between Fleetwood and Londonderry twice weekly.
The steamers are lighted with Electricity, and there are Dining Saloons,
Ladies’ Cabins, and State Rooms, replete with every modern comfort.
Express Trains are run in connection with the Boats between Manchester,
Liverpool, Bolton, Bradford, Leeds, Sheffield, Harrogate, York, New-
castle, Birmingham, London, and other important Places, and Fleetwood.
The Boat Train from Fleetwood to Manchester, in connection with the
Steamers from Belfast and Londonderry, is a Vestibule Broakfast Car Train.
The Fleetwood route will be found the most expeditious and convenient for
the North of Ireland. Passengers and their luggage proceed direct from
the train to the steamer by a covered way. No expense is incurred in the
transfer of luggage to and from the boats.
LIVERPOOL AND DROGHEDA SERVICE.
The L. & Y. Co.’s steamers sail between Liverpool (Colling wood Dock)
and Drogheda. For particulars of Sailing see Sailing Bills and Cards.
IRELAND AND ENGLAND, via DUBLIN
AND LIVERPOOL.
Steamers leave North Wall daily, Monday to Friday inclusive, at 12 noon
and 8.0 p.m., and on Saturdays at 2.0 p.m. and 8 ; o. p.m., in connection at
Liverpool with Express Service of Trains to all parts.
ISLE OF MAN, via FLEETWOOD, & uia LIVERPOOL.
During the Season the Isle of Man Steam Packet Company’s Steamers,
sail daily (Sundays excepted), between Fleetwood and Douglas, Isle ot
Man, at convenient hours, and daily (Sundays excepted), all the year be-
tween Liverpool and Douglas. There is also a service on certain days
between Fleetwood and Ramsey, via Douglas, and direct sailing on certain
days between Liverpool and Ramsey. Passengers and their luggage
are conveyed Free of charge between Liverpool (Exchange Station) and
the Drogheda, Dublin and Isle of Man Steamers.
Every Friday & Saturday short and long date Tickets are issued
by any train from principal stations to Blackpool, Fleetwood, Lytham,
St. Anne’s, Southport, Liverpool, Harrogate, Scarborough, &c.
For full particulars apply to Mr. Chas. J. Nicholson, Passenger
Superintendent, Victoria Station, Manchester.
Manchester. JOHN A. F. ASPINALL, General Manager.
Guide Series , 1905-6.]
3
Railway Routes
1 8 *
FESTINIOG RAILWAY,
HB6 celebrated Miniature Line, the original “ TOY
RAILWAY,” and the world-renowned pioneer of
narrow-gauge railways, is situated in the centre of the finest
scenery in the Principality. In its continuous ascent from
Portmadoc to the Festiniog slate quarries it traverses, by
means of sharp curves and gradients, a rugged but most
picturesque tract of country, and in its windings along
the hill sides at a great height above the valley it con-
tinually discloses fresh views of river, sea, and mountain,
amongrt which is comprised the grand panorama of the
Snowdon range.
It is yearly visited by thousands of tourists, who are
charmed with the novelty of the line and its surroundings.
It is readily accessible from all parts of the country,
through Bettws-y-Coed via the London and North-Western
Railway ; or through Bala, via the Great Western Railway,
changing in each case at Blaenau Festiniog ; or through
Barmouth or Afonwen, via the Cambrian Railways, changing
at Minffordd.
It forms the most direct route between the seaside resorts
on the north, and those on the south and west coasts of
North Wales.
CIRCULAR TOUR TICKETS are issued by the
London and North-Western, Great Western, and Cambrian
Railway Companies, available over the Line and in connec-
tion with four-horse coaches running through the Snowdon
district.
NORTH WALES.
J. S. HUGHES, General Manager.
• Povimadoc , 1905.
Railway Routes
CAMBRIAN RAILWAYS.
Delightful Spring, Summer, and Winter Resorts.
Magnificent Sea and Mountain Scenery, combined with Bracing Climate.
Temperature in Winter and Spiing is higher than that of most Watering
Places in the South and West of England.
Excellent Golf Links adjacent to the Railway.
BATHING. COACHING. FISHING (Sea, River, Lake).
BOATING. GOLFING. MOUNTAINEERING.
TOURIST, WEEK END, AND TEN DAYS TICKETS (ist. 2nd,
and 3rd Class, from the piincipal Towns in England) aie issued through-
out the year to the Cambr.ail Coast.
DAILY EXPRESS TRAIN SERVICE, with Through Carriages from
London, Leeds Birmingham, Manchester, Liverpool, Sheffield, &c., to
the Cambrian Coast.
CHEAP DAY TICKETS at greatly Reduced Fares between all
Cambrian Coast Stations during the Summer.
ABOUT 30 RAIL AND COACH EXCURSIONS DAILY
Cycling & Walking Tour Tickets at Reduced Fares.
CAMBRIAN RAILWAYS' PUBLICATIONS Cardigan Bay Illus-
trated, ‘ “Picturesque Wales,’ “A Souvenir of Wild Wales ’ (price 6d.),
“ List of Farmhouses and Seaside Lodgings " (price id.), ‘ Charming
Cambria’ (price is.).
The above, together with Tourist Programmes, Time Tables, etc , and
all information, can be obtained at the London Offices of the L. & N.W.
and G. W. Cos., at the undermen ine 1 District Offices of the Company ; or
from Mr. W. IL Gough, Traffic Superintendent, Oswestry.
Birmingham— 137, Corporation Street; Sheffield— Mersrs. D< an &
Dawson, 7, Haymarket ; Bradford -Messrs. Dean & Dawson, 83. Market
Street; Oldham— Mr. L. R. Stanton, 112. Union Street; Liverpool
District 108, Victoria Road, New Brighton, Birkenhead * Cardiff —
The Exchange ; Manchester- 45, Piccadilly.
THE BRITISH RIVIERA.
ABERYSTWYTH.
BARMOUTH.
ABERDOVEY.
BORTH.
HARLECH.
CRICCIETH.
PWLLHELI.
TOWYN.
From Cambrian Stations during the Summer, also
Oswestry , March , 1905.
C. S. DENNISS,
Secretary and General Manager.
20 v
Railway Routes
VISIT KILKEE,
SPANISH POINT,
LAHINCH,, LISDOONVARNA
AND THE
Unrivalled Cliff and Coast Scenery
OF
West
4 -
THE DIRECT ROUTE
TO THESE
Famous Health and Pleasure Resorts
IS BV THE
WEST & SOUTH GLARE RAILWAYS
From ENNIS to ENN1STYMON (for Lisdoonvarna),
LAHINCH (for the Golf Greens and the Cliffs of Moher),
MILLTOWN-MALBAY (for Spanish Point), and
Kl^KEE.
THROUGH TOURIST TICKETS are issued at the
principal Railway Stations in Ireland and England , also
at the Offices of Thos. Cook & Son, and Dean & Dawson ;
and at the Irish Railway Companies’ Tourist Office, 2 ,
Charing Cross, London, S.W.
For information as to Fares, Routes, Hotels, Golfing,
Fishing, &c., apply to —
' PATRICK SULLIVAN, Manager.
West Clare Railway , Ennis , 1905.
Steamer Routes
21*
GRAND HOLIDAY SEA TRIPS
(Magnificent Coast Scenery)
BETWEEN
LONDON & DUBLIN
AND THE
SOUTH OF ENGLAND.
The best route for Cornwall, Devon, Wilts, Sussex, Kent, Essex,
Hants, and Surrey, and for the Scilly Islands, the Isle of Wight,
the Channel Islands, and France.
THE LARGE FIRST-CLASS STEAMERS OF THE
British & Irish Steam Packet Company, Ltd,,
Leave London and Dublin twice a week, calling both ways at
Portsmouth, Southampton, Plymouth, and Falmouth.
Loyo ! l-'rom London— Sundays and Wednesdays.
OdllllJg Ddjo j Fvorti Dublin — Wednesdays and Saturdays.
FLEET:—
“ Lady Roberts ” 1,462 tons 1 “ Lady Wolseley ’ 1,424 tons
“ Lady Hudson-Kinahan ' 1,372 ,, | l ' Lady Martin ” 1,355 ,,
Lady Olive ” 1,096 tons
These vessels have superior accommodation for First and Second Cabin and
Steerage Passengers, are fitted with Electric Light, have Deck State Rooms,
Smoke Rooms, &c., and carry Stewaids and Stewardesses.
Circular Tours from LONDON to Killarney, Cork and South of
Ireland, Isle of Man. Glasgow &c., from SOUTH OF ENGLAND
Ports to Isle of Man, Connemara, and West of Ireland (June
to September), and from DUBLIN to Channel Islands and
France, via Southampton.
Scilly Islands.— Passengers for these charming Islands land at Falmouth
and travel via Penzance.
London, Dublin, and Isle of Man Tours, 42/- Return 1st Class
to Dublin by this Company s Steamers, thence by Isle of Man
S.P. Company s Steamers, or per S.S. “YARROW. Splendid
Summer Service from Dublin. From Portsmouth & Southamp-
ton, £2 ; Plymouth, £1 15s. ; Falmouth, £1 12s 6d.
SPECIAL CHEAP EXCURSION TICKETS,
First and Second Cabin, available for 16 days, are issued between anv two
of the following Ports— Dublin, Falmouth, Plymouth, Southampton,
Portsmouth, at a Single Fare and a Quaiter.
Ordinary Return Tickets are available for three months.
Private Cabins can be reserved on payment of extra charge on early
application being made for same.
Company’s Illustrated Handbook sent post fiee from any of the
Company’s Offices, or obtainable on board the Steamers.
AGENTS : — 30, Eden Quay, Dublin, Carolin & Egan. London :
James Hartley & Co., 19, Leadenhall Street, E.C. ; North Quay, Eastern
Basin, London Docks, E. Plymouth : R. Clark & Son, Millbay Pier ;
H. J Waring & Co., Millbay Pier. Southampton : Le Feuvre & Son,
8 , Gloucester Square. Falmouth: W. & E. C. Came, Market Street.
Portsmouth : J. M. Harris, 10, Broad Street.
Tickets are also issued by Messrs. THOS. COOK. X SON,
Dublin and London , and Branches •
Chief Offices : — 3, North Wall, Dublin. A. \V. Egan, Secretary.
Telegraphic Address : — “AWE, DUBLIN.”
NOTE. — Dublin Temporary Berth , 04 , Sir John Rogerson’s Quay.
22
Steamer Routes
On the Magnificent Ocean Yacht “Argonaut.” Tonnage 3,274, H.P. 4,000
Autumn, Winter, & Spring Cruises to the Mediterranean.
Autumn Cruise to the Baltic, including the Northern Capitals
of Europe.
£10 10s. Cruises to Norwegian Fjords. £10. 10s. Tours to Rome.
£5 5s. Tours to Lucerne.
Orgai ized by Henry S. Lunn, M.D., W. Holdsworth Lunn,
and Connop F. S. Perowne.
Full pariiculars from the Secretary,
5, Endsleigh Gardens, Euston, London, N.W.
Norway, Denmark, and Germany.
The First Class Passenger Steamers of The Leith, Hull, and Hamburg
Steam Packet Company, Ltd., sail as under-noted (unless prevented by
the weather or unforeseen circumstances) : —
From Leith to Christiansand, every Thursday, for Bergen, the Hard-
anger, Saetersdal, and Christiania. Retut ning every Friday.
From Leith to Copenhagen, every Thursday, for Gothenburg, the Gota
Canal, and Stockholm. Returning every Thursday.
From Leith to Hamburg, every Wednesday and Saturday, for Berlin,
Dresden, Vienna, Munich, the Harz Mountains, the Rhine, and Switzer-
land. Returning every Monday and Friday.
Cabin Fares to or from Leith (including provisions) : — Copenhagen and
Christiansand, single, £3 3s. Od., return, £5 5s. Od. Hamburg, single,
£2 IOs. Od., return, £4- 4s. Od. These Tickets issued on board from
one hour before the advertised sailing hour.
Through Fares (including Provisions in Company’s Steamers): — To
Christiania, £4 Os. Od. To Bergen, £4 7s. 6d. To Berlin, £3 IOs. Od.
CIRCULAR TOURS.
A Handbook may be had on application, with maps and details of these
and of the most interesting Tours among
THE FJELDS AND FJORDS OF NORWAY.
Fares for tne Rounl : — LEITH and BACK. Tour I. — Hamburg,
Kiel, Copenhagen, Christiansand, £6 8s. Od. Tour II. — Hamburg,
Vamdrup, Fredericia, Nyborg, Korsoer, Copenhagen, Christiansand,
£6 I2s. 6d. Tour III. — Hamburg, Berlin, Rostock, Copenhagen,
Christiansand, £7 13s. Od.
The above Fares are Cabin and 2nd Class Rail, but 1st Class Rail Tickets can be
had if desired.
Tickets are also issued for three extensions to SWEDEN at £2 8s. 5d.,
£6 3s. Od., and £6 lls. 6d. respectively, enabling tourists to visit the
famous Gota Canal and Stockholm. Particulars on application.
HOLIDAY TOURS IN NORWAY.
Ten Days for £8 8s. Od. ; Seventeen Days for £10 IOs. Od., including
all expenses. Full particulars on application.
Passengers wishing through tickets for any of the tours must write to the
office not later than the day before sailing, stating which tour they intend
to take. The tours may be taken in either direction, and the journey
broken at any point. For further details and particulars of sailings to
Bremen, Hull, Newcastle, Sunderland, &c., apply to the Managers.
JAMES CURRIE & CO., Leith.
Steamer Routes
23*
SUMMER TOURS IN SCOTLAND.
g _
GLASGOW and the HIGHLANDS.
The Royal Mail Swift Passenger Steamer
“COLUMBA” or “IONA”
Sails Daily (Sunday excepted) during the season, from
Glasgow Bridge Wharf at 7 a.m. ; Greenock, Custom House
Quay, 8.40 a.m., Princes Pier (Greenock), 9 a.m. ; Gourock
Pier, 9.15 a.m., and Dunoon, 9.30 a.m. (additional services
during height of Season ), in conned :on with Express Trains
from London and the South, Edinburgh, Glasgow, &c., for
ROTHESAY, KYLES OF BUTE, TARBERT, & ARDRISHAIG,
Conveying Passengers via Crinan and Caledonian Canals for
OBAN, STAFFA & IONA, GLENCOE, FORT- WILLIAM, INVERNESS,
LOCH AWE, LOCH LOMOND, LOCH KATRINE, THE TROSSACHS,
LOCH TAY, LOCH EARN, LOCH SCAVAIC, LOCH CORUISK,
MULL, SKYE, GAIRLOCH, LOCH MAREE, LOCHINVER,
STORNOWAY, ISLAY, &c.
DAILY PLEASURE SAILING.
Circular Tours by the Swift Steamers.
Weekly Cruises by Claymore, Clansman, &Caualier.
Official Guide, 6d. Tourist Programme free by Post from
DAVID MACBRAYNE, 119, Hope Street, Glasgow,
ROYAL
^ ROUTE.
I905.
Steamer Routes
24*
bON DON
AND
LeitH.
NEAREST PORT FOR EDINBURGH.
♦
The London and Edinburgh Shipping Co.’s
First-class Steamships 9
FINGAL, IONA, MALVINA, MARMION,
Lighted by Electricity
(New Steamer building, expected ready early in August),
Or other of the Company’s vessels, are intended to sail
(weather, casualties, and strikes excepted) as follows, from
Hermitage Steam Wharf, Wapping, E., every
Tuesday, Wednesday, and Saturday ; and from
Victoria Wharf, Leith, every Wednesday, Friday,
and Saturday.
Fares.— First Cabin (including Steward’s fee), 22/-
Second Cabin, 16/- Deck (Soldiers and Sailors only), 10/-
KrXSTXTRN TICKETS,
Available for six months (including Steward’s fee both
ways)— First Cabin, 34/-; Second Cabin, 24/6
REDUCED PASSENGER FARES OCTOBER TO MAY INCLUSIVE.
CHEAP CIRCULAR TOURS
Round the Land’s End, in connection with Clyde Shipping Company’s
Steamers.— Fare, first cabin, 47/6
By Bristol Channel, in connection with Messrs. Sloan & Co.’s Steamers. —
Fare, first cabin, 35/- Railway fares extra.
Round the North of Scotland, in connection with Messrs. Langlands &
Sons’ Steamers, to Liverpool. — Fare, first cabin, London to Liverpool, 60/-
By British and Irish Steam Packet Company’s Steamer to Dublin, thence
via Silloth to Edinburgh, returning by this Company’s Steamer to London.
— Fares for the round, saloon and first class rail, 52/- ; saloon and third
class rail, 47/-
By North of Scotland Steamers to Orkney and Shetland.— To Kirkwall
and Stromness, first class, single 40/- ; return, 60/- Second class,
single, 22/-; return, 33/- To Lerwick and Scalloway, first class,
single, 45/- ; return, 67/6. Second class, single, 23/6 ; return, 35/-
Apply, in LONDON, to London and Edinburgh Shipping Co.,
Hermitage Steam Whaif. Wapping, E. ; M’Dougall & Bonthron, Ltd.,
72, Mark Lane, E.C. EDIN BURGH — Cowan & Co, 14 , North Bridge.
GLASGOW— Cowan & Co., 23, St. Vincent Place. LEITH — 8 and 9,
Commercial Street. THOMAS AITKEN, Manner.
Telegraphic Addresses.— London, “Edina”; Leith, “Aitken.”
London, Telephone No. 2394 ; Leith, Telephone No. 403.
Steamer Routes
25 *
BATAYIER LINE
LONDON, ROTTERDAM, THE RHINE.
Most Comfortable and Cheapest Route.
From London, from alongside Brunswick Pier, Blackwall, daily, Sundays
excepted.
From the 1st June till 30th September, at 4.30 p.m.
From the 1st Oct. till 31st May, at 3 p.m.
Passengers must leave Fenchurch Street Station, by train, 40 minutes
previous to the time of departure of the steamers from Blackwall.
SEA VOYAGE, ~7h HOURS.
Fares : London-Rotterdam, first class, Single, 19/6 ; Return, 30/-
„ s , „ second „ „ 12/- ; „ 18/-
The Service will be maintained by the New and Fast Passenger Steamers,
“ BATAVIER II.,” “III.,” “IV.,” “V., 5 ’
which have spacious Saloons, State Cabins on deck, and are fitted up similar
to the latest Atlantic Liners.
Write for full particulars ,
BATAVIER LINE, CUSTOM HOUSE AND WOOL QUAYS,
LOWER THAMES STREET, E.C.
Telegraphic Address — “ Batauier,” London.
Telephone Nos. 2470 , 2471, 2475, Auenue.
LIVERPOOL & NORTH WALES.
Daily Sailings (Sundays included), by New Palatial Saloon Steamer
“La Marguerite,” also “St. Tudno,” “St. Elvies,” and “Snowdon,”
between Liverpool, Llandudno, Beaumaris, Bangor, and Menai Bridge ;
leaving Liverpool daily at 10.45 a.m., due back 7.30 p.m., allowing four hours
ashore at Llandudno. Daily Excursions from Llandudno to Menai Straits
and Carnarvon, also frequent Sea Trips round the Island of Anglesey,
Douglas (Isle of Man), Holyhead, Blackpool, etc. (low fares).
For all further particulars apply to any of the Company's Agents at the respective
Piers , or to the Liverpool and North I Pales Steamship Company, Limited, T. G. Brew,
Secretary, 40 , Chapel Street, Liverpool . Official Guide, with special map, post tree 3 ( 1 .
Guide Book Advertiser
HOUSEHOLD REMOVALS
TO AND FROM ALL PARTS.
CORTISS & SONS, LTD.
♦
DEPOSITORIES.
PORTSMOUTH - -
LONDON -
GOSPORT - -
SOUTHAMPTON -
RYDE -
PLYMOUTH -
DEVONPORT -
CHATHAM -
NEW BROMPTON -
SHEERNESS -
Royal Pantechnicon
23, West Smithfield, E.C.
60, High Street
28, Queen’s Terrace
1, Esplanade
The Refinery, Mill Lane
46/9, Chapel Street
361, High St., Rochester
6, High Street
56, High St., Blue Town
FURNITURE WAREHOUSED
ESTIMATES FREE.
Steamer Routes
27*
IMPERIAL DIRECT
West India Mail Service Go., Ltd.
(Carrying His Majesty’s Mails.)
TRIPS TO
clTKMTSieTK
(“The New Riviera.”)
Magnificent Scenery. Delig'htful Climate.
F01 HEALTH AND PLEASURE.
FLEET : —
R.M.S. PORT KINGSTON
R.M.S. PORT ROYAL j R.M.S. PORT ANTONIO
R.M.S. PORT MORANT I R.M.S. PORT MARIA
TTHE ABOVE STEAMERS have been specially constructed for this
service, and have excellent accommodation for passengers, being
replete with every luxury and convenience. High-class Cuisine, Hot
and Cold Water Baths, Electric Light, Electric Bells, &c., &c. A
fully-qualified Surgeon, and a large staff of competent Stewards and
Stewardesses, carried on each snip.
Regular Fortnightly Sailings (every alternate Saturday) from BRISTOL
(Avonmouth Dock), to KINGSTON, JAMAICA, also landing Passengers
and Mails at TURK S ISLAND on the outward voyage.
SPECIAL TRIPS DURING*™ SUMMER MONTHS.
♦
During the Summer Months (May to September inclusive) the Company
offer a Special Rate of TWENTY-FIVE GUINEAS for Tourists. This
rate includes Saloon accommodation on the Steamer Out and Home, and
free stay at the Company ’s^ Hotel, “The Constant Spring,” during the
time elapsing between the arrival and departure of the steamer in
Jamaica.
The Hotel is situated in the Blue Mountains, about seven miles from
Kingston. Electric Cars running between there and the town at
frequent intervals.
ELDER, DEMPSTER & CO.,
Canada House , Bristol.
African House, Liverpool; 4, St. Mary Axe, London; Man-
chester, Cardiff, Hamburg, Antwerp, &c., also at all Offices
of Messrs. Thos. Cook & Son.
Railway Routes
28*
THE BIBBY LINE
OF TWIX- SCREW
MAIL STEAMERS
To CEYLON, BURMAH, & SOUTHERN INDIA.
SAILING FOB l NIGHTLY,
Offers Special Facilities for Passengers to and from
South of France, The Riviera, Italian Lakes, Corsica, Egypt,
Palestine, etc.
As the bulk of the Eastern Passengers by this line embark and disem-
bark at Marseilles, those desirous of the short trip (6£ days) between
England and Marseilles^are afforded very ample acccommodation on these
fine twin-screw vessels, at very moderate rates.
For such as desire a week at sea, with the most favourable surroundings,
this has become a very favourite trip.
Passengers taking Return Tickets from Liverpool have the option of
returning by any of the Bibby Line Steamers, or overland through Paris
to London, first-class ; similarly, passengers may proceed to Marseilles from
London by Rail, and return by Sea.
First Class Fare, £ 8 8s., Single ; £15 Return.
For all further information apply to
Messrs. Br.BY BROTHERS & CO., 26, Chapel St., LIVERPOOL,
and 10 & 11, Mincing Lane, LONDON, E.C. ;
or to Messrs. THOMAS COOK & SON’S Offices.
TWENTY-THIRD EDITION.
HAYDN’S
Dictionarp of Dates
and Universal Information.
A Complete Record of all Nations and times,
with Especial Reference to the History and Achieve-
ments of the British Empire. Containing the
History of the World to the beginning of 1904.
Medium 8vo, cloth, 21 /-; half-calf, 25 /-; full or tree
calf, 31 / 6 .
LONDON : WARD, LOCK & CO., LTD.
Guide Book Advertiser
2Q
Detective and Adventure Series
Copyright. Large demy 8vo. Attractive Wrapper. Illustrated.
30T NO PROOF Lawrence L. Lynch
302 NINETEEN THOUSAND POUNDS Word Delannoy
303 OUT FROM THE NIGHT A. M. Meadows
304 THE CIRCULAR STUDY A. K. Green
305 CAGED Headon Hill
306 A STUDY IN SCARLET Sir A. Conan Doyle
307 HIGH STAKES Lawrence L. Lynch
308 BETWEEN THE LINES - B. Delannoy
309 FALSE EVIDENCE... E. P. Oppenheim
310 THE LEAVENWORTH CASE.. A. K. Green
311 THE LAST STROKE Lawrence L. Lynch
312 THE MYSTERIOUS BURGLAR .. .G. Walsh
313 THE WORLD’S FINGER ... T. W. Hanshew
314 THE BROTHERHOOD OF THE SEVEN KINGS . ....L. T. Meade
315 THE MARGATE MURDER MYSTERY ... Burford Delannoy
316 AGAINST ODDS Lawrence L. Lynch
317 FOR ENGLAND ... ... Morice Gerard
318 THE FOG PRINCES Florence Warden
319 LADY TURPIN Henry Herman
320 A SECRET SERVICE Wm. Le Queux
321 A SOCIAL HIGHWAYMAN ... ... ... E. P. Train
322 UNDER FATE’S WHEEL Lawrence L. Lvnch
323 SHOULD SHE HAVE SPOKEN ? ... E. Miller
324 THE SANCTUARY CLUB .... L. T. Meade
325 BEYOND THE LAW Gertrude Warden
326 THE MAN OF THE MOMENT Gerard
327 MOINA ... Lawrence L. LynGh
328 THE JEWEL OF DEATH Huan Mee
329 OUTLAWS ... W. Clarke Little
330 STORMLIGHT J. E. Muddock
331 PRINCE OF DARKNESS ... ... Florence Warden
332 A RACE WITH THE SUN... L. T. Meade
333 THE CRIME AND THE CRIMINAL Richard Marsh
334 THE ADVENTURES OF ROMNEY PRINGLE ..Clifford Ashdown
335 A FATAL LEGACY ... Louis Tracy
336 THE STOLEN PEARL........... Gertrude Warden
337 THE FRENCH MASTER Wiison Barrett
338 A SLENDER CLUE Lawrence L. Lynch
339 SORCERESS OF THE STRAND L. T. Meade
340 A STRANGE DISAPPEARANCE A. K. Green
341 THE QUEEN OF NIGHT ... ... Headon Hill
342 A CONFLICT OF EVIDENCE R. Ottolengui
343 MARKED “PERSONAL”... ... A. K. Green
344 ARTHUR GORDON PYM Edgar A. Poe
345 THE HOUSE OF USHER .. ... Ditto
346 PHILIP BENNION’S DEATH ...Marsh
347 THE LOST SQUARE L. T. Meade
348 A MODERN WIZARD R. Ottolengui
349 THE INDIAN BANGLE Fergus Hume
350 CYNTHIA WAKEHAMS MONEY A. K. Green
351 THE PERILS OF THE RED BOX .. Headon Hill
352 A MASTER OF MYSTERIES L. T. Meade
353 M.R.C.S. ... ... ... ... ... ... Burford Delannoy
354 THE FEVER OF LIFE Fergus Hume
355 ONE OF MY SONS A. K. Green
356 THE MAN WITH THE WHiTE FACE Morice Gerard
357 THE TRAIL OF THE DEAD ... ... B. Fletcher Robinson
LONDON: WARD , LOCK & CO., LIMITED.
30
Guide Book Advertiser
STANDARD NOVELS and POPULAR BOOKS.
SIXPENNY LITHO ’ NOVELS ( COPYRIGHT ).
Large Demy 8vo. Lithographed Covers. Illustrated.
i A Bid for Fortune
Guy Boothby
3 Bound to Win Smart
4 Geoffry Hamlyn
Henry Kingsley
5 Katerfelto
G. J. Whyte-Melville
8 Captain Shannon
Coulson Kernahan
9 Random Shots
Max Adeler
12 Mr. Witt’s Widow
Anthony Hope
13 Pharos, the Egyptian
Guy Boothby
14 Saddle and Sabre
Hawley Smart
16 The Dorrington Deed
Box Arthur Morrison
17 Market Harborough
Whyte-Melville
18 A Monk of Cruta
E. P. Oppenheim
21 Christine of the Hills
Max Pemberton
22 The Great Tontine
Hawley Smart
23 An Old Fogey
Max Adeler
24 A Maker of Nations
Guy Boothby
25 In Full Cry R. Marsh
26 A Daughter of the
Marionis Oppenheim
27 A Sensational Case
Florence Warden
28 Hard Lines H. Smart
30 Social Sinners Ditto
31 Chronicles of Martin
Hewitt A. Morrison
32 Black, but Comely
Whyte-Melville
33 Love Made Manifest
Guy Boothby
34 A False Start H. Smart
35 Broken Bonds Ditto
36 Martin Hewitt,
Investigator Morrison
37 At Fault H. Smart
38 The World’s Great
Snare Oppenheim
39 To Leeward Crawford
40 The Right Sort
Mrs. Kennard
41 Agatha Webb Green
42 Captain Landon
Richard H. Savage
43 Tie and Trick Smart
44 Scoundrels & Co.
Coulson Kernahan
45 The Man and His
Kingdom Oppenheim
46 A Prince of Swindlers
Guy Boothby
47 Adventures of Martin
Hewitt A. Morrison
48 The Unseen Hand
L. L. Lynch
49 A Race for a Wife
Hawley Smart
50 Satanella
G. J. Whyte-Melville
51 The Temptress
Wm. Le Queux
52 Elbow Room Adeler
53 False Cards H. Smart
54 A Millionaire of
Yesterday Oppenheim
55 The Red Rat’s
Daughter Boothby
56 For the Religion
Hamilton Drummond
57 Play or Pay H. Smart
58 The Brookes of Bridle=
mere Whyte-Melville
59 Cecile Hawley Smart
60 Long Live the King
Boothby
LONDON: WARD , LOCK & CO .. LIMITED .
Guide Book Advertiser
3i
Standard Novels and Popular Books — continued.
61 The Mystery of Mr.
Bernard Brown
E. P. Oppenheim
62 Holmby House
G. J. Whyte-Melville
63 The Whirligig Lindsay
64 Jan Oxber Orme Agnus
65 Stolen Souls Le Queux
66 Two Kisses H. Smart
67 The Red Chancellor
Sir W. Magnay
68 Ravenshoe H. Kingsley
69 Sunshine and Snow
Hawley Smart
70 My Indian Queen
Guy Boothby
71 Zoraida Wm. Le Queux
72 As a Man Lives
E. P. Oppenheim
73 Belles & Ringers Smart
74 Sarchedon
G J. White-Melville
75 The Shadow of the
Czar Carling
76 Half a Hero A. Hope
77 Across the World for
a Wife Guy Boothby
78 Courtship H. Smart
79 Tilbury Nogo
G. J. Whyte-Melville
80 The Fighting Trouba=
dour A. C. Gunter
81 A Woman of Wiles
Alick Munro
82 A Sailor’s Bride
Guy Boothby
83 Lady Barbarity Snaith
84 Uncle John
G. J. Whyte-Melville
85 The Empty Hotel
A. C. Gunter
86 The Man of the Hour
Sir W. Magnay
87 The Survivor
E. P. Oppenheim
88 From Post to Finish
Hawley Smart '
89 The Channings
Mrs. Henry Wood
90 The Induna’s Wife
Bertram Mitford
91 Sheilah McLeod
Guy Boothby
92 The Great Awaken =
ing Oppenheim
93 The Spy Company
A. C. Gunter
94 The Ruby Sword
Bertram Mitford
95 The Marriage of
Esther Boothby
96 Rainbow Island Tracy
97 Mrs. Halliburton’s
Troubles Mrs. Wood
98 In Strange Company
Guy Boothby
99 The Sword in the
Air A. C. Gunter
100 MysteriousMr. Sabin
Oppenheim
101 The Trifler A. Eyre
102 A Race with Ruin Hill
103 The Kidnapped
President Boothby
104 Sarah Tuldon Agnus
105 The City of Mystery
A. C. Gunter
106 The Albert Gate
Affair Louis Tracy
107 The Viking’s Skull
J. R. Carling
108 The Man of the
Moment Gerard
109 A Social High way =
man E. P. Train
no Lady Turpin Herman
in The Margate Murder
Mystery Delannoy
1 12 My Strangest Case
Guy Boothby
1 13 Comedies of Court-
ship A. Hope
1 14 The Wayfarers Snaith
1 15 Connie Burt Boothby
LONDON: WARD, LOCK A CO., LI Ml LED,
Steamer Routes
G.S.N.e. TOURS.
With BEST HOTELS, FULL BOARD,
and First-Class Travel throughout.
BORDEAUX and ARCACHON
12 days’ Tour
BORDEAUX, PYRENEES, &c.
12 days’ Tour
PYRENEES GRAND CIRCULAR
TOUR 19 days
OSTEND 2 days Tour £\ 4 s ;
3 days, /I 12s to days
OSTEND, BRUGES BRUSSELS,
ARDENNES 9 days' Tour
RHINE, MEUSE, MOSELLE
Grand 16 days Tour
EDINBURGH 5 days Tour
LOCH ECK, LOCH FYNE, ETC.
6 days
CALEDONIAN CANAL 13 days Tour
STAFFA and IONA 9 days’ Tour
HARLINGEN and ZUIDER ZEE
5 days’ Cruise
HAMBURG ... 5 days’ Tour, £4 16 9.
6 days
SCANDINAVIAN GOTHA CANAL
TOUR 16 days
HAMBURG, KIEL, KORSOR, and
COPENHAGEN ... 6 days Tour
ITALIAN SICILIAN CRUISE
about 7 weeks
ALGERIAN.. 19 days’ Tour
£7 7 0
7 10 O
13 19 6
3 19 6
4 11 6
13 O O
2 19 6
4 10 O
12 12 O
7 17 6
2 12 6
5 9 9
16 16 O
6 17 10
21 O O
19 19 O
Illustrated Guide, with splendid Road . Rail and Route Maps,
by Post 2 d
General Steam Navigation, Co., Ltd.,
55, GREAT TOWER STREET, E.C.
WARD, LOCK & CO.’S
Botel, Bpdropatbic establishment,
AND
Boarding Bouse Directorp.
INDEX.
PAGE
Aberdeen...
;v. ... 2
Aberystwyth
... ... ... 2
Ambleside
... l6
Barnstaple
... 3
Barmouth
• 2. 3
Barton-on-Sea
Bath
4
Beaumaris
3
Bettws-y-Coed
3
Bideford ...
4
Birmingham
6
Bishop’s Teignton 41
Blackpool
3
Blair Atholl
6
Boscastle ...
3
Bournemouth
... 6
Bowness ...
1 C
Bridlington
6
Bundoran
5
Buxton
ON
00
0
p
Cambridge
... ... ... 12
Caragh Lake
23
Clevedon ...
... ... ... II
Colwyn Bay
... 12
Coventry
... ... ... II
Cromer ...
14
Cruden Bay
13
Douglas ...
... ... ... 22
Dovedale .
13
Dovercourt
14
Dublin
14
Dukeries, The
15
Eastbourne
14
Edinburgh
15
Edwinstowe
15
Exeter
18
Falmouth
l8
Felixstowe
l8
Harrogate
... ... 18, 19
Hunstanton
•• 19
Ilfracombe
... 19, 20, 21, 27
Instow
22
Inverness
24
Ipswich ...
22
Isle of Man
22
Isle of Wight
21
Jersey
24
Kenmare ..
23
Keswick ...
17
Lee Bay ...
27
Liverpool...
3 1 5 32
Guide Series,
1905-6 \
PAGE
Lizard, The
27, 28
Llandrindod Wells
... 26
Llandudno
24, 25
I .lanfairfechan ...
26
Llangammarch Wells
26
Llangollen
26
Loch Awe
31
London
26, 27
Lowestoft
... 28
Lynmouth
30, 31
Lynton ...
... 29
Margate
33
Matlock
33
Minehead
33
Mullion Cove ...
33
Newquay
••• 34
Oswestry...
••• 34
Oxford
35
Parknasilla
23
Patterdale
17
Penzance
35, 36
Plymouth
... 36
Pwllheli ...
36
Ramsgate
36
Rhyl
... 36
Ripon
... 36
Rostrevor
5
Salcombe...
37
Saltburn
36
Sark
11
Sandown...
... 21
Scarborough
36, 37
Shanklin ....
... 21
Sidmouth
... 38
Slateford
39
Southport
... 38
Southsea ...
37» 38
Strathpefier
40, 41
Symonds Yat ...
... 41
Teignmouth
... 41
Torquay
41, 42, 43
Ventnor ...
21
Warrenpoint
5
Warwick ...
••• 43
Watergate Bay...
••• 34
Waterville
23
Whitby
43, 44
Windermere
16
Worthing
... 44
Yarmouth
44
Aberdeen — Aberystwyth — Barmouth
The PALACE HOTEL
OWNED BY THE
GREAT NORTH OF SCOTLAND RAILWAY COMPANY.
Every accommodation for comfort. Electrically Lighted.
Mechanically Ventilated. Hydraulic Lifts.
EXCELLENT CUISINE. MODERATE CHARGES.
Personally patronised by their Majesties the King and
Queen, Their Royal Highnesses the Prince and Princess of
Wales, and many other Royal and distinguished visitors.
Covered way from Station Platform.
Luggage Removed to and from the Hotel Free of Charge.
Special. — Visitors should be careful to address communications Pala.ce
Hotel, Aberdeen, otherwise inconvenience may arise.
Address : MANAGER, Palace Hotel, Aberdeen.
See Cruden Bay Hotel, page 13.
Aberystwyth-Deva Boarding Establishment. ~ p a a r r a J d n e!
Facing Sea. Replete with every Home Comfort. Good Winter
Residence. Moderate Terms. Mrs. ASHMALL, Proprietress.
Aberystwyth, N. Wales-The Waterloo Hydro ~ F s ea : ns
Accommodation for 200 Guests. Electric, Sea Water, and other
Medicated Baths. Spacious Lounge, Dining & Drawing Rooms.
Electric Light. Excellent Cuisine. Special Terms for Winter
Months. Nat. Tel. n. Telegrams — “Waterloo.” For Tariff
apply Manageress.
Aberystwyth Queen's Hotel, f Th s e » s j a T
says A fortnight at Aberystwyth is equal to a month at most
Watering Places.” For Tariffs. &c., apply — W. H. PALMER.
Aberystwyth -Lenton House ated on* Promenade. Facing Sea.
Replete with every Home Comfort. Electric Light. Moderate
Terms. Mrs. TREHARNE, Proprietress
Aberystwyth Collingwood
& down. Excellent cuisine, home comforts, electric light. Sanitary
arrangements perfect. Terms Moderate. Mrs. SEARGEANT.
flhbPUCfwufh UafAdlinno Victoria Terrace. Modern built house, with
AUtiiyblWyill-ndlOQllDOS, every comfort. On sea front. Sheltered
from N. & E. winds. First-class Board Residence. Special terms
for winter months. The Misses HOLLAND, Proprietresses.
Barmouth Cors-y-gedol & Marine Hotelsr^Lf''
the Sea, with south-west aspect. Excellent Cuisine. Moderate
Charges. For Terms, apply to Manager.
3
Barmouth — Barnstaple — Barton— Boscastle
Barmouth -Hendre Hall En Pension • Grounds. Magnificent
views of Bay & Cader Range. Close to Golf Links. Every Com-
fort. Tariff on application. Nat. Tel. 20. Mrs. WILLIAMS.
BARNSTAPLE.
IMPERIAL HOTEL.
7 THIS FIRST-CLASS FAMILY AND RESIDENTIAL HOTEL
w has, owing to increased patronage, again been considerably enlarged
and is now replete with every comfort. Spacious and lofty Dining, Draw
ing, Reading, Billiard, and Smoking Rooms, Lounge and Dark Rooms
Choice Wines and Spirits. Excellent Cuisine. Highly recommended*
Moderate Tariff.
C. A. YOUING, Proprietor.
BARTON-ON-SEA, HANTS.
One mile from New Milton Station and miles from Bournemouth »
Barton Court Hotel.
♦fCEAUTIFULLY situated in its own grounds on Barton Cliffs.
M Magnificent Golf Links adjoining Hotel, facing Sea. Professional
in attendance (Sunday play allowed). Moderate Terms. Also Inclusive
Terms, Friday to Monday. Bracing Air. Close to New Forest.
Beaumaris, North Wales.-THE WILLIAMS-BULKELEY
APMQ UATflT — First-class Family Hotel. Moderate Tariff
AIUTlO flUlDh. JOHN KIDD, Manager.
Bettws-y-Coed— Waterloo Hotel • Billiards. Tennis. Posting.
Fishing. Excellent Stabling. Motor Garage. Inspection Pit.
Hotel ’Bus meets trains. Mrs. McCULLOCK, Proprietress.
RlaoVnnnl RrnnVl'inHo Boarding Establishment, 12, Tyldesley
DlduJkJJUUi D1 vUiVldHUo Terrace, Promenade. — A High-class Board-
ing House. Comfort, Elegance, and Economy. From 6/- per day,
inclusive. Tel. No. 0194. Telegrams: u Brooklands, Blackpool.”
BOSCASTLE, NORTH CORNWALL.
Wellington Hotel
Patronised by lioyalty.
♦jl^IGH-CLASS Family and Tourist Hotel and Coaching House. With
IP easy distance of Golf Links and Ruins of King Arthur’s Castle.
Romantic Scenery. Bracing Air. Excellent Cuisine. Finest and only
complete Service of Coaching on the North Coast, being through delightful
scenery and uninterrupted sea views. Daily Coaches.
H. W. INCE, Proprietor
4
Bath — Bidetord
JS ATM.
YORK HOUSE HOTEL
/^LD-ESTABLISHED and High-class Family Hotel. Patronised by Her
Gracious Majesty the late Queen Victoria. Elegant Suites of Rooms ;
Handsome Public R.ooms ; Electric Light ; Hydraulic Lift. Beautifully
furnished and fitted throughout. Moderate Tariff. Apply Manager.
Also Queen’s Hotel, Penzance, Bull Hotel, Cambridge, &c.
EDMUND SAUNDERS, Proprietor.
41 B I D E F O R D- *4
CENTRAL FOR THE WHOLE OF NORTH DEVON.
Including WESTWARD HO! CLOVELLY, HARTLAND, BUDE,
ILFRACOMBE, and LYNTON.
Coaches in the Season to above Places.
ROYAL HOTEL
Adjoining Railway Station. Magnificent Views.
THE MOST MODERN HOTEL IN WEST OF ENGLAND.
Replete with every convenience and comfort.
COMPLETELY SHELTERED FROM EAST AND NORTH-EAST WINDS.
Lofty, perfectly ventilated, and handsomely furnished rooms.
FORMING CHARMING SUMMER AND WINTER RESORT.
One of the mildest and healthiest in the kingdom.
CONTINENTAL COURTYARD.
Excellent hunting neighbourhood. Finest Stabling and Lock-up Coach-
Louses in Devonshire. Refreshment Room and luxurious Double Billiard
Room, with direct entrance from Railway Platform.
SAVE OMNIBUS AND PORTERAGE.
Porters attend every Train. French and German spoken.
SPECIALLY REDUCED WINTER TARIFF AND BOARDING TERMS.
Cideford—" Chiefly remarkable for having a first-rate hotel.”— Punch, Oct. 5th, 1880.
Bun dor an
5
Great Northern Railway Company
(IRELAND),
- ■ -ALXkiT' " ^
BUMDORAN, CO. DONEGAL.
THE GREAT NORTHERN. — Commands fine views
of Donegal Bay and the neighbouring Mountain Ranges.
Lighted by Electricity throughout. Sea and Fresh
Water Baths (Hot or Cold). Excellent Eighteen
Hole Golf Links on Hotel Grounds, free to
Visitors staying at the Hotel. Croquet. Tennis,
Accommodation for Motors. Petrol supplied. Unsur-
passed facilities for Lake, River, and Sea Fishing,
Coaching. Sea Bathing.
ROSTREYOR, CO. DOWN.
THE GREAT NORTHERN. — Beautifully situated
on Carlingford Lough. Luxuriously fitted and furnished,
and lighted by Electricity throughout. Sea and Fresh
Water Baths (Hot or Cold).
WARRENPOINT, CO. DOWN.
THE GREAT NORTHERN.— Situated at the head
of Carlingford Lough, commanding uninterrupted views
of the Mourne Mountains, the Omeath and Carlingford
Plills and shore, and the full extent of the Lough. Hot
and Cold Sea or Fresh Water Baths.
— ^> 04 - —
Combined Rail and Hotel Tickets are issued at the
Company’s principal Stations, from which also rooms
may be telegraphed for, free of charge, but the issue of
Combined tickets to Bundoran is suspended between
the 15th July and the 15th September.
For terms apply to the Managers at the Hotels.
T. MORRISON, Secretary.
Amiens Street Terminus,
Dublin. May , 1905.
6 Blair Atholl — Birmingham — Bridlington - Buxton
ATHOLL ARMS HOTEL
AND POSTING ESTABLISHMENT
(. ADJOINING THE STATION),
BLAIR ATHOLL.
D. MACDONALD & SONS, Proprietors.
B LAIR ATHOLL is much the nearest and most central
point from which to visit Killieerankie, the Queen’s
View, Lochs Tummel & Rannoeh, Glen Tilt, Brae-
mar, the Falls of Bruar, Garry, Tummel, and Fender ;
the Grounds of Blair Castle, &c. ; and it is the most con-
venient resting-place for breaking the long railway journey
to and from the North of Scotland.
POSTING DEPARTMENT Complete & Extensive.
GOLF COURSE.
Birmingham-Hotels “CoMen” & “Hen and Chickens.”
5 minutes from Ry. Stations. Coffee, Commercial, & Smoke Rooms.
Terms Moderate. Tel. 251 & 2866. Tels. : WCobden,” “ Chickens.”
Bridlington, Yorks— Imperial Private Hotel.
First-class. En Pension. Facing Sea. Magnificent
Views of Flamborough Head. South Aspect. Table
d’Hote 6.30 (separate tables). Nat. Tel. No. 0156.
Mrs. SAM MORTIMER, Proprietress.
Bournemouth-Empress Hotel
■ Overlooking a mile of the Public
Gardens. Tariff most moderate. Electric Light. Billiard Room.
Table d’Hote, separate tables. One minute from Winter Garden,
Theatre, and G.P.O. Three minutes from Pier; five from Golf
Links. S.W. Aspect. Telephone 0984. Saturday till Monday,
17/- Illustrated Tariff on application. No charge for Bath,
Lights, or Attendance.
Buxton, Derbyshire-Balmoral Private Hotel. -
Establishment. The finest position in Buxton. Replete with
every comfort. Four minutes’ walk from Baths, Garden, Churches,
Stations, &c. Table d’Hote, 6.45 p.m. Nat. Tel. 0481. Telegrams
— “ Balmoral, Buxton.” Mrs. LEE, Proprietress.
Buxton -Pavilion Private Hotel. ~
Baths, Garden f\and New Pump Room. Every Comfort. Moderate
Terms. Nat. Tel. 0496. Mr. & Mrs. E. K, SHAW, Proprietors.
Buxton
7
LIMEHURST-BUXTON.
HOTEL PENSION.
(Associated with the Hotel Holgenaes, Romsdal, Norway).
H TTENTION is drawn to the fact that the whole of the Staff Especially chosen
from Norway, and a special feature is made of the cooking and attendance.
Limehurst is beautifully situated, with a south aspect, and with extensive views of
Axe Edge and surrounding hills, and has a large garden. It is within a few minutes’
walk of Station, Pavilion, Gardens, Pump Room, and Baths. There are entrances from
both Manchester Road and Park Road. The Sanitation is perfect. Tourists’ and cheap
week-end tickets to Buxton are issued throughout the year from all the principal Stations
on the Midland and L. & N.W. systems. Electric Light. Dining Rooms. Drawing
Rooms. Morning Room. Smoke Room. Conservatory. Excellent Cuisine. Express
Train Service between Buxton and London (St. Pancras and Euston). Terms from 2|
Guineas. Special Terms 'or Golfers and Winter Visitors.
BUXTON.
GEORGE HOTEL.
P UBLIC Dining and Drawing Rooms; Reading and Smoking Rooms ;
Private Sitting Rooms, and Rooms en suite. Table d Hote at
7.0 p.m. The Hotel is detached, plea>antly situated with southern aspect,
is close to Baths, Gardens, Chuich, and Railway Stations, and has
special suites of Rooms without staircases for Invalids. Corridors
Heated throughout the Winter. R'ectric light in every room. Terms
Moderate. Nat. Telephone No. 0448. w. F. MILL, Proprietor.
BUXTON, DERBYSHIRE.
Inab-class Hoarding establishment*
Beautifully situated. Near
Pavilion, Gardens,
Baths, and Golf
Links.
m
Highly Recommended.
Excellent Cuisine. •
Table d’Hote, 6,30 p m. Tariff on application.
MISS GRETTON. Proprietress.
8
Buxton
BUXTON,
DERBYSHIRE.
HIGHEST TOWN IN ENGLAND.
On the Mountain Limestone, 1,000 feet above sea level.
Centre of the picturesque Peak District.
Pure Air. Charming Scenery.
HOT MINERALWATER BATHS
For GOUT , RHEUMATISM, SCIATICA, LUMBAGO, dc.,
Natural Temperature 82 ° 'Fahrenheit,
Are now the Property of the Council.
♦
FINEST PUBLIC GARDENS
AT ANY HEALTH RESORT IN EUROPE,
WITH PAVILION OPERA HOUSE,
CONCERT HALL, TENNIS, BOWLS, &c., &c.
GOLF LINKS (18 HOLES).
For ILLUSTRATED GUIDES, with Tariffs of the leading
Hotels, Hydropathics, Boarding and Lodging Houses, send
postage (ijd.) to
CHIEF CLERK, Town Hall, Buxton, Derbyshire.
Biixton
9
CRESCENT HOTEL
BUXTON, Derbyshire.
" - — ^ - t*" — - ■ ■ — n
t . - !
I
ijjr HIS First-class Hotel occupies the best situation, being
^ near the Railway Station, and connected by
Covered Colonnade with the Baths, Wells, Pavilion,
Gardens, Opera House, &c. Buxton Golf Links one
mile from the Hotel. The new Pump Room is immediately
opposite the Hotel. Table d’Hote at 7 p.m. in the
Splendid Dining Room (one of the finest in the Kingdom).
PUBLIC DINING, DRAWING , BILLIARD, SMOKING,
AND READING ROOMS.
ELECTRIC LIGHT IN ALL ROOMS.
EXCELLENT CUISINE. CHOICE WINES AND CIGARS.
C. J. SMILTER, Proprietor.
Telegraphic Address : —
“Crescent Hotel, Buxton.” National Telephone, No. 20
TERMS MODERATE & INCLUSIVE.
10
Buxton
BUXTON HYDROPATHIC
BUXTON, DERBYSHIRE.
H. LOMAS - - - Managing Director.
Telegraphic Address — “Comfortable, Buxton." Nat. Telephone No. 5 ,
260 HOO TVX S.
Electric Light. Elevators. Baths of every Description.
CINDERELLA DANCE EACH SATURDAY THROUGHOUT THE YEAR.
BUXTON, DERBYSHIRE.
BEAUTIFULLY SITUATED IN ITS OWN GROUNDS.
Five minutes’ walk from Railway Station, Baths,
and Public Gardens. Equally suitable for a
Winter as well as a Summer Resort.
Magnificent Views. Electric
Light Throughout.
Sanitary arrangements
and Ventilation perfect. Home
Comforts. Public Dining, Drawing,
Billiard and Smoking Room. Table d’Hote
V . 7 p.m. Terms Moderate.
Apply to Manageress.
Nat. Telephone No. 2.
•^•BUXTOUT.-K-
SOUTHGATE PRIVATE HOTEL
AND
Eoarding Establishment
HARDWICK MOUNT.
Convenient and Pleasant
Situation. Good Dining,
Drawing, Smoking, and
Recreation Rooms. Bil-
1 ards. Lock-up for Bi-
cycles. Four-horse Char-
a-banc starts from house
every day for various
places of interest. Dark
Room for Photography.
MRS. OWEN, PROPRIETRESS.
BUXTON, DERBYSHIRE.
First-Class Boarding Establishment.
Situated in the best part of Buxton, overlooking
Golf Links, near the Pavilion Gardens, com-
manding the finest views in the neigh-
bourhood. Within easy distance
of the Pump Room
and Baths,
-f
*t9
^5
Contains
fine Entrance
Hall, Dining, Drawing,
Billiard, Smoke, and Read-
ing Rooms. Handsomely Furnished.
Table d’Hote separate tables. Excellent Cuisine.
Heated throughout the Winter months. Moderate Terms.
Mr. & Mrs. HAMBLY, Proprietors & Managers.
Telegrams, “ Towers , College Road, Buxton Nat. Tel. 117.
Buxton -Channel Islands— Coventry— Clevedon n
BUXTON, DERBYSHIRE.
Pension Pendennis
ENLARGED and NEWLY BEAUTIFIED.
F INEST Situation, near Baths. Excellent Table,
Large Library, Perfect Sanitation, Heated through-
out during Winter. Table d’Hote 6.30 p.m. Moderate Terms.
Mrs. MARTLAND NEWTON.
National Telephone 109.
BUXTON, DERBYSHIRE
HIGH-CLASS, situated in
Hardwick Square,
close to Baths,
Pump Room,
and Gardens. Replete with
every comfort. Table d’Hote, 6. 3° P*m.
Excellent Cuisine. Moderate Terms.
Nat. Tel. 45. Miss PALMER, Proprietress.
RllYtnn Ffliplflirfh Marlborough Road. — Superior Private Apartments,
DUAlUil raillClgli, with or without Board. Every Comfort. Ground'
floor Bedrooms. Bathroom. Situated nearBaths, Gardens, Stations,
&c. Sunny aspect. Special Winter Terms. Mrs. A. F. VICKERS.
Buxton-Searson’s Private Hotels ■ 1 HK QUEEN^S° N ’ Facing
South. Detached and Comfortable. Excellent Cuisine. Moderate
Terms.
Sark
Channel Unfp] Dp] A\y — The only Hotel on the Island with
j Islands HUICI a Sea View. First-class accom-
modation. Good Fishing and Bathing. Croquet. Tennis.
Terms moderate.
Coventry-King’s Head Hotel • Headquarters of Automobile Club.
Garage for 30 Cars. Excellent Cuisine. Electric Light. Tels. :
“ King’s Head, Coventry.” M. MEINHARDT, Mng. Director
CILiBVBOO
WALTON PARK HOTEL
^THE Most Comfortably-furnished Hotel in the West of England, beauti-
V*' fully situated on Walton Cliffs, directly facing the sea. The exten-
sions are now completed, redecorated and refurnished. Large Lounge
and Recreation Room. Perfect Sanitation. Seven Acres of pleasure
Grounds, containing 4 Tennis Courts and 2 Croquet Lawns. Excellent
Cuisine and Wines. Special Motor Garage, with Inspection Pits. Golf.
Tels.: “Seaside, Clevedon.” Nat. Tel. 0,150 Clevedon.
For Tariff and Brochure apply to
STANLEY D. GORDON, Manager
12
Cambridge — Colvvyn Bay
C A. M BRI3>Gr E.
THE BULL HOTEL.
principal ffamilg Ibotel.
Patronised by the Royal Family, Nobility, and Gentry.
SITUATED CLOSE TO THE PRINCIPAL COLLEGES .
Recently Redecorated and Refurnished Throughout.
Apply MANAGER.
Also the “ Queen's Hotel” Penzance , the “ York House Hotel ” Bath, &c.
EDMUND A. SAUNDERS. Proprietor.
HOT AND COLD
SEA-WATER BATHS
THE HOTEL.
BILLIARD & SMOKE ROOMS.
MOTOR GARAGE WITH PIT.
PRIVATE SUITES IN NEW WING.
PORTERS IN SCARLET LIVERY
ATTEND ALL TRAINS.
Wintev Residence . Mrs. LELY, MANAGER*
Cromer — Cruden Bay - Dovedale
i3
CRO ME JES R.
BELMONT PRIVATE HOTEL
S ITUATED on West Cliff, with Sea View from every room. Accommodation for 60
Visitors. Private Sitting Rooms. Drawing, Dining, and Smoking Rooms. Table
d’llote at 7 o’clock, at separate tables. Tariff from Two Guineas.
J. W. JEFFERSON, Proprietor.
ALEXANDRA MANSI
ITUATED close to Beach, with good Sea Views. Accommodation for 60 Visitors.
Sumptuously furnished. Large Dining Hall, Lounge, Drawing, Smoke, and Read-
ing Rooms. Moderate Tariff. MRS. JEFFERSON, Proprietress.
Cromer- Cliftonville Private it:
finest position in Cromer. Overlooking Sea and Favourite C.iff
Promenade. Accommodation for ioo Visitors. Table d’Hote at
separate tables. Moderate Tariff. Electric Light throughout.
Telegrams : “Cliftonville, Cromer. ’ Telephone No. 30a.
W. CHURCHYARD, Proprietor.
frAmor Qhhllfw Hauqa Boarding Establishment. — West Cliff.
UUmtJl-OIiCllOJf IlUUbC Facing Sea. Every Home Comfort.
Liberal Table. Near Golf Links and Midland & G.E.R. Stations.
Moderate Terms. Mrs. CLARKE, Proprietress.
C 5RUBEM
A. Popular Seaside and Golfing Resort, 30 Miles
from Aberdeen, on the
GREAT NORTH OF SCOTLAND RAILWAY.
Splendid Beach- two miles long. Sea Bathing. Boating.
Fishing. Healthy and Invigorating Climate. The Golf Course
Of 18 holes is pronounced by distinguished Players to be
one of the best in the Kingdom. Ladies’ Course of 9 Holes.
CRUDEN BAY HOTEL
OWNED BY THE
GREAT NORTH OF SCOTLAND RAILWAY COMPANY,
® C( ^I J ^ 1ES ? Charmi "g Site, overlooking the Bay of Cruden. Every
Jr . Mo ^ ern Accommodation. Electric Light. Lift. Bowling Greens,
lenms Courts. Croquet Lawns. Electric Tramway between Station
and Hotel. Address enquiries to the
Manager, Cruden Bay Hotel, Port Erroll, N B
See Palace Hotel Advertisement , Page ?.
Dovedale, Derbyshire-Peveril of the Peak Family Hotel.
Station . 1 horpe Cloud, L. & N.W. Own grounds, 12 acres. Mag-
nificent scenery. Four miles Trout & Grayling Fishing. Home
* arm - H. BRIDDON, Proprietor.
14
Dovercourt - Dublin — Eastbourne
Dovercourt, Essex-Cliff Hotel. ~ F *tv£ e *comrSrV° s cii“ " P
Week-end Tickets are issued by G. E. R. Co.
H, H. PACKER, Proprietor.
HOTEL METROPOLE
Sackville Street, DUBLIN.
F IRST-CLASS. Splendid Situation. Electric Light all
through. American Elevators. Service unsurpassed.
Perfect Sanitation and Ventilation. Most Modern and
Comfortable. Restaurant Department attached. Terms
Moderate. G . J. CAPSEY. Manager.
Telegrams-" METROPOLE. DUBLIN."
DUBLIN
Moderate Charges.
First Class.
HOTEIi.
Eastbourne-Burleigh House En Pension, -°w” d - Sq - are>
Replete with every comfort. Liberal Table.
Moderate and Inclusive Terms.
Grand Parade. —
Excellent Cuisine.
Mrs. PIPER.
Eastbourne-Carlton Hotel,
First-class Temperance. Central for
business or pleasure. Beds from 2/-.
Breakfast 1/9. Dinners 2/-. Saturday till Monday, 12/6. Boarding
Terms 35/- to 42/- week. Highly recommended. — W. THOMAS.
Eflcthnurno— AndloQ Popular Boarding Establishment.— Royal
ridblUUUiilC liilglCb Parade. Facing Sea. Every Comfort, com-
. bined with Moderate Charges. J. H. TAYLOR, Proprietor.
EASTBOURNE.
“M OSTYN”
3BoarMng lEstabltsbment,
GRAND l'ARADE.
jpACING the Sea, the aspect
JJ being South-West. The
Devonshire Park and Baths are
within two minutes’ walk, the
Pier, Golf, and Cricket Grounds
within 10 minutes. Visitors seeking
a permanent or temporary home
will fmd every comfort, a liberal
table, and good management.
Good Bath and Smoking Rooms.
The Sanitary Arrangements are
perfect, having the Certificate
granted by the Medical Officer of
Health for the Borough.
Mr. & Mrs. CAREW PACKER,
Nat. Tel. 183. Proprietors.
Edinburgh — Edwinstowe
i5
~ni- EDINBURGH, -i^-
THE COCKBURN HOTEL,
Adjoining Waverley Station •
Conducted on Temperance Principles. Passenger Elevator.
Foreign Languages Spoken. Electric Light.
JOHN MACPHERSON, Proprietor.
DARLING’S
RECENT TEMPERANCE HOTEL
20, WATERLOO PLACE,
EDINBURGH,
Under the personal management of Miss Darling.
Telegraphic Address— Telephone No. 02928 Central.
“ Darling’s Hotel, Edinburgh.’’
Ok Reallp Best ?12a$aztuc for cocrpone is
^Windsor.
PRICE SIXPENCE.
Edwinstowe-Dukeries Hotel • in Edwinstowe.
Five minutes’ walk from Old Sherwood, and the
most delightful Forest Scenery in the Kingdom.
Keys and passes for the ducal private parks and
drives. Iv. SMITH, Manager.
i6
English Lakes
Windermere hydro.,
BOWNESS-ON-WINDERMERE.
FIVE MINUTES FROM BOWNESS PIER.
’BUS FROM WINDERMERE STATION, L. & N.W.R.
For Prospectus, apply The Manager.
THE ENGLISH LAKES.
AMBLESIDE THE PRINCIPAL CENTRE.
REFERENCE to any map of the Lake District will clearly show that
Ambleside is situated in the immediate centre. Communication is
made by Water and by Coach with all parts of the district, combining to
favour Ambleside as an unrivalled sojourning place. The chief hotels are :
THE SALUTATION,
THE QUEEN’S,
THE WINDERMERE WATERHEAD,
all of which are commodious and high-class, and offer every homely comfort
to visitors. Private Coaches and Carriages of every description may also
be obtained.
TAYLOR’S FOUR-IN-HAND STAGE COACHES
run daily from the Hotels and the Steamer Pier for Keswick, Coniston,
Ullswater, and the Langdale. For time tables apply at the aforenamed
hotels, Taylor’s Coach Office, Ambleside, or various offices en route.
THOMAS TAYLOR, Proprietor.
English Lakes
1 7
PATTERDALE, PENRITH.
ULLS WATER HOTEL
N LARGED and Re-modelled. One of the largest and best situated
Hotels in the district, bordering on Ullswater, which is unquestion-
ably the Lake which Combines the greatest variety of scenery. Helvellyn
and Airey Force are within a short distance. Steamer arrives and departs
from the Hotel Grounds. Coaching and Boating, etc. Electric Light.
THOMAS ' BOWNASS, Proprietor.
Telegraphic Address : — “ Ullswater Hotel , Glenridding.”
KESWICK HOTEL,
KES WICK.
C onnected with the
Railway Station by a
Corridor. Stands in its own
grounds. Has views of un-
surpassed loveliness. Lighted
by Electricity. Nat. Tel.
No. 020, and Telegraph on the
premises. Free Golf Course
to Keswick Hotel Visitors.
J. B. WIVELL, Lessee.
Read H. RIDER HAGGARD’S
GREAT NOVEL tC AYESHA”
The Return of “SHE.”
The most enthralling romance ever written.
32 Magnificent Illustrations by Maurice Greijfenhagen .
Crown 8vo, Cloth Gilt, 6s.
OF ^1.1. FOOKSEIjiLEKS.
London: WARD, LOCK & CO., LIMITED.
Guide Series, 1905-6.]
5
1 8 Exeter — F almouth — Felixstowe — H arrogate
EXETER.
ROYAL CLARENCE HOTEL.
FACING GRAND OLD CATHEDRAL.
§ O
8.3
Nat. Telephone No. 244. J. HEADON STANBURY, Proprietor.
Exeter The Bude Hotel -
-Family and Commercial. Close to the
Cathedral. Every Comfort. Excellent
Cuisine. Electric Light throughout. Bathrooms. Billiards. Stab-
ling. Nat. Tel. 296. G. F. SERCOMBE, Proprietor.
FALMOUTH,
As a Tourist centre, owns many attractions, and as a Winter
Resort is frequently recommended by the leading
Medical Practitioners.
THE GREEN BANK HOTEL
3 S beautifully situated, with charming Views of the Harbour, Pendennis
and St. Mawes Castles, and is replete with every homely accom-
modation for Families and Gentlemen. Ladies’ Drawing Room. Billiard
Room. Posting in all its Branches. High-class Hotel with Moderate
Tariff. Visitors taken en pension during the Winter Months. Hotel
Omnibus meets all Trains and Steamers.
M. MITCHELL, Proprietress.
Felixsto we-Ordnance Hotel. ~ due South, standing in own grounds,
commanding extensive views. Balcony overlooking Sea & Private
Lawns. Electric Light. Lock-up houses for Motors and Cycles.
Nat. Tel. 083, Felixstowe. Telegrams: “Ordnance, Felixstowe.”
Terms on application. C. W. PACKE, Proprietor.
Felixstowe -Melrose Private Hotel
comfort. Best position on front for Promenade & Pier, faces nearly
due South. Excellent Cuisine. Mod. Terms. R. G. COPL1NG.
flolivotnwn Pllldvmr Family Hotel.— Situated on Sea Front. Nearest
rCllAolUiYC rillUj Cl Hotel to Golf Links. Every Comfort. Excellent
Cuisine. Moderate Terms. Motor & Cycle Accommodation. Tels. :
“ Fludyer, Felixstowe.” Nat. Tel. 078. C. F. PRATT, Proprietor. .
Harrogate The Spa Private Hotelrfi^^K
50 Bedrooms. Electric Light throughout. Lift to all floors. Inclu-
sive terms fr. gs. Tel. 0409. Mrs. ANDERSON, Proprietress.
Harrogate — Hunstanton — Ilfracombe
*9
Uarrndatfl -Ralpnmhn Boarding House, 2, York Place. Pleasantly
IKUlUgdie DdlbUIUUC situated, facing the Stray: South aspect.
Mrs. McLANACHAN, Proprietress.
Uarrnrfato Tha birltnn Ripon Road En Pension.— Standing in
Ildl I UgdlO lliO 1 /lIllUil own grounds. Near Baths, Spa, & Pump
Rooms. Lounge. Electric Light throughout. Tennis & Croquet
Lawns. Mod. Terms. Table d’Hote 7 p.m. Telegrams: “ Dirlton.”
Mrs. RYMER.
Harrogate The Brinkburn & Octagon Overlooking Valley Gar-
dens, 3 minutes from Baths & Pump Room. Terms fr. 42/- per week.
Mrs. BUCKLEY & Miss HAMILTON, Proprietresses.
Uarradath RfilvaHflra Boarding Estab. — Beautifully situated, over-
JQdlivgdlu DCliCuCiC looking the Stray. One minute from various
Wells, Baths, Valley Gardens, and Kursaal. Newly decorated
throughout. Terms from 30/- per week. Apply Manageress.
HARROGATE, YORKS.
First-class Private Hotel and
Boarding Establishment.
An Ideal Position. ^^0* ^ Facing the
South Aspect. ^-"^Stray. Within three
minutes’ walk of Station,
Baths, Pump Room, Concert Room,
and Winter Gardens. Electric Light, and
replete with every comfort. Table d’Hote 7 p.m.
Special Terms for Winter Months. Nat. Tel. No. 200 .
7'^
PRICE’S
CAPSTONE BOARDINC ESTABLISHMENT
AND RESTAURANT,
ST. JAMES’S STREET.
|1\LEASANTLY situated, two minutes’ walk from the Pier, Capstone
Parade, and overlooking the Victoria Promenade. Spacious Drawing,
Dining, and Smoking Rooms. Excellent accommodation for Tourists.
Single Beds from 1/6 per night ; Double Beds from 2/- per night ; Breakfast
and Dinner from 1/2 ; Teas from 6d.
Boarding Terms from 5/- p®r day, according to Season.
Splendid Cuisine. A. R. PRICE, Proprietor.
Ilfracombe — Isle of Wight
2T
Ilfracombe -THE OSBORNE
one minute of the Sea. Exctlle.it Cuisine.
Moderate Inclusive Tariff Free.
Thirty Bedrooms.
Proprietor.
Ilfracombe-The Wildersmouth Capstone Parade, and Beach.
Sea View from all windows.
guineas per week.
Inclusive Tariff from to 2 %
F. COLLINS, Proprietor.
IE I_i IE 71 _bC O 0 IL/L IB IB _
THE GRANVILLE
FIRST-CLASS BOARDING ESTABLISHMENT
1,800 REFERENCES IN VISITORS 9 BOOKS.
AGNIFICENT Sea and Land views. Forty-four Bedrooms. Baths,
Balconies. Electric Light throughout. Billiards. Comfort, sociability,
good cooking. Bijou Guide gratis.
W. R. FOSTER, Proprietor.
ILFRACOMBE,
IMPERIAL HOTEL.
UNIQUE SITUATION, FACING SEA AND CAPSTONE.
ELECTRIC LIGHT, PASSENGER LIFT .
^"HIS well-known and first-class Private Hotel, replete with comfort and luxury,
^ contains 100 Apartments, elegant Lounge, Drawing, Billiard, and Ball Rooms.
Balconies. Golf. En pension, from 42/- to 3! guineas, according to room and season.
For Illustrated Tariff apply to Leonard Parsons, Manager.
CHAS. DREW (Oswestry), PROPRIETOR.
Telegrams— “ Imperial Hotel, Ilfracombe.’' National Telephone, No. 22 .
THE QUEEN’S HOTEL (Family, Commercial, & Coaching).
Opposite General Post Office. Under same Proprietor and Management.
Apply for Illustrated Tariff. En pension, from 42/-. Motor Garage.
Sandown, l.W.-Montpelier
lent Cuisine. Inclusive terms from 35/- per week. Under personal
supervision of The Misses JONES, Proprietresses.
Sandown, I.W.-The Balconies First-clasf! Facing Sea. South
aspect. Replete with every comfort. Moderate Terms .
Mrs. C. WELSH, Proprietress.
Qhanlrlin IW riiff T-Tahqa Private Hotel& Boarding House.
DliailAim, I. II . vllil nuiloo First-class. Situated in its own grounds.
Facing Sea. Every Comfort. Excellent Cuisine. FJectric Light.
Moderate Terms. Mr. & Mrs. E. D. JEFFORD, Proprietors.
Shanklin, I.W.-Clifton House
grounds. Good Sea View. Replete with every comfort. Excellent
Cuisine. Moderate Terms. S. J. CLARK, Proprietor.
Shanklin, I.W -Duecrolt Boarding House
Sea & Station. South aspect. Every Home Comfort. Libera!
Table. Moderate Terms. Well recommended. Misses CR OSS.
Yentnor, I.W.-Solent Hotel
House. — Facing .Sea. Overlooking
Pier. South aspect. Boarding Terms from 30/- to £2 2s. pe»
week. Miss M. M. MEIKLEHAM, Proprietress.
22
Instow — Isle of Man — Ipswich
Instow, 3\T orth Devon.
Marine Hotel
UN UK li NEW MANAGEMENT .
/^HARMING Situation, overlooking Rivers Torridge and Taw and Bay.
V*' Private Lawn with Sea Wall. Croquet and Bowls. Near Railway
Station, Post and Telegraph Office. Central for Places of Interest in
North Devon. The Rivers afford pleasant Boating and good Fishing.
Own Dairy and Poultry kept. Charges Moderate. Posting in all its
Branches. Special Terms during Winter Months. Tickets for Salmon
and Trout Fishing. Nat. Tel. 0184. J. B. COUNEBEAR, Proprietor.
ISLE OF MAN.
Dodsworth’s Boarding House & Private Hotel
QUEEN’S PROMENADE, DOUGLAS.
Southern Aspect. Select end of Bay, facing Sea.
LATE DINNERS.
TERMS ON APPLICATION.
IPS W I o H.
GREAT WHITE HORSE HOTEL
ANE of the oldest, most comfortable, and best known Hotels in the
World. Established prior to 1450. Celebrated by the late Charles
Dickens in Pickwick Papers. Fire mains on every floor. Headquarters
of the Automobile Club of Great Britain and Ireland, Eastern Counties
Automobile Club, Kennel Club, Field Trials, and Suffolk County Kennel
Association. Table d’Hote 7 p.m. ’Bus meets all trains. Night Porter.
Perfect Sanitation. JOHN HARRISON, Proprietor.
Telephone 38. Telegrams-** PICKWICK, IPSWICH.
Kerry Fjords
23
COUNTY KERRY.
SOUTHERN HOTELS
Under the Management of the
Great Southern & Western Railway, Ireland.
HEALTH PLEASURE RESORTS.
Shooting, Fishing, Golf, Boating, Bathing , etc.
Southern Hotel, Parknasilla.
Situated on Grand Atlantic Coast Route.
This Hotel is a comparatively recently built one. It stands
on an inlet of the sea, 15 miles by road from Kenmare Rail-
way Station. Its grounds of over 200 acres are well wooded
and sheltered. It affords excellent Sea Bathing, Fishing,
and Boating, and is an ideal holiday resort.
Bishop’s House Hotel, Parknasilla
(unlicensed).
Open June to October. Sheltered position. Tariff 7/6
per day.
Southern Hotel, Waterville.
On the shore of Lough Currane, and within half a mile of
the sea. Salmon and Trout Fishing commences here on 1st
February. There is an excellent 9-hole Golf Links within
1 J miles. Hotel Cars meet guests, if advised, at Cahirciveen
Railway Station.
Southern Hotel, Caragh Lake.
Within half a mile of G. S. & W. Railway Station ; beauti-
fully situated on the shore of Caragh Lake, and surrounded
by unrivalled scenery. The Company has secured extensive
and exclusive Fishing and Shooting rights, and good Links,
for the use of its guests. Trout Hatchery in grounds.
Southern Hotel, Kenmare.
This House has been quite recently built, and will be found
replete with every modern comfort and convenience, in-
cluding Electric Light. It is just on the outskirts of the
town, and commands a grand view of the Kenmare Sound
and surrounding country. Coaches run daily during the
Tourist Season from this Hotel to Parknasilla, Waterville,
Cahirciveen, and also to Glengarriff and Killarney.
There are excellent Golf Links adjoining the Hotel Grounds.
Coupons issued to any of above Hotels at Dublin (Kingsbridge), Cork,
and Waterford Stations.
Full particulars of any of the above Hotels may be obtained on application
to the Manager,
Southern Hotel, Kenmare, Co. Kerry.
24
Inverness — J ersey — Llandudno
Inverness— Waverley Hotel." and Boats. Fishing. Golf. Most
central and comfortable. Terms Moderate. Telephone 0179.
D. DAVIDSON, Proprietor.
ROYAL HOTEL.
{BREWS.)
Recherche Cuisine. Terms Moderate. Entirely Renovated,
and under the Management of
Mrs. E. BREE.
JERSEY.
ROYAL YACHT HOTEL
oldest established first-class Hotel in the Islands. Magnificent
^ position, facing Sea and Harbours. Terms moderate and
inclusive. For full particulars apply to the
Manager — H. LOGAN.
Telegraphic Address— “ YACHT, JERSEY.”
Llandudno, N. Wales-Yincent's Private Hotel • Marine
Parade. Extensive Tennis Court Accommodation. Motor Garage.
Illustrated Tariff of P roprietor— J. H. VINCENT.
ALL
O ADS
LLANDUDNO
(The Queen of Welsh Watering Places).
Send Postage (1£d) to “Secretary of Dept. 12,” Town Improvement
Association, Llandudno, for a lovely Illustrated Guide and an Official
List of Hotels, Boarding Houses, and Private Apartments.
Llandudno -The Craig-y-don On Sea Front. Accommodation for
160 guests. Electric Light. Recreation Room. Terms Moderate.
Open during Winter. Misses MIDDLETON £ WOOD.
Llandudno, N. Wales-Sherwood SS Ms
vie*s of Bay and both O/m^s. Every Horn'" Comfort. Liberal
Table. Moderate Terms. Mus. E. L. PARRA, Proprietress
Llandudno
25
Llandudno “Englelield” B ^. ng c,o^ b s 1 jfS Q d™2
ing Locality. Excellent Cuisine. ’Bus passes the door, lerms,
inclusive, 36 /“ per week. Proprietress.
Llandudno-“Trevone”
Every Comfort. Cuisine Excellent. A splendid Summer or Winter
Residence. Tariff" on application. Mi ss E. M. CUMBERLAND.
Llandudno, N. Wales-Imperial
Lift. Lounges.
per week.
120 Bedrooms.
En Pension from 3^ guineas
S. CHANTREY, Manager.
Llandudno-Lockyer's Private Hotel • Facing Sea. Old-estab-
lished. High-class. Smoking Lounge added. Moderate Tariff".
Nat. Tel. 053. Mr. & Mrs. GEORGE STONES, Proprietors.
Llandudno, North Wales— u ORMESCLIFFE,” First-class
Duiuofn Unfnl and Winter Residence (Promenade).
lllVdlC IIUICI Facing Sea. Magnificent Views of Bay
and both Ormes. Motor Garage. Excellent Cuisine. . Dark Room
for Photographers. Billiards. Musical Society. Private Rooms
ensuite. Moderate Terms. Mrs. M. SMITH, Proprietress.
Llandudno-Moon’s Private Hotel • Station and Promenade.
Private Sitting Rooms. Billiards. Home Comforts. Excellent
Cuisine. Moderate Terms W. WINCH, Proprietor.
Llandudno-Fislier r s Private Hotel • minute from Sea and
Station. Dark Room for Photography. Excellent Cuisine. Terms
Moderate. Telegrams — “Fisher’s Hotel, Llandudno.”
Llandudno- ‘The White House Centre of Grand Promenade.
Facing Sea. One minute from Pier ana Concerts. Electric Light.
Redecorated. Perfect Sanitation, lelegrams — “White House.”
Nat. Tel. 100. W. A. THOMAS, Proprietor.
TlanHiiHnn Urirt v hnn Boarding Establishment. — On Pro-
LldilUllUilU ~DI ig-J “L/Uli menade. Facing Sea; centre of Bay;
near Station, Golf Links, & Pier. Winter Residence. Moderate
Terms. Nat. Tel. 24 x 1. MORRIS BARNETT, Proprietor.
Llandudno-Marine HotelrlSc SSi p S e ^i
floors. Heated throughout
apply Proprietor.
during Winter Months. Tariff,
National Telephone No. 19.
Llandudno WILEY & SON, Glass and China
laauuuuuu. Merehants . Large stoek of Goss
Porcelain. Arms of Wales and Llandudno.
Llandudno-Bryn-y-Mor
Pier& Pavilion. Overlooking Bay, entrance
South Aspect. Also
Table d’Hote, 6.30
to Pier, & surrounding Mountain Scenery.
Private Apartments in Winter Months.
(separate tables). For Tariff, apply
Mr. & Mrs. C. M. BROWN.
Llandudno, N. Wales-" Elsinore ’
First-class Boarding
Residence. — Centre of
Grand Parade. Facing Sea. Near Pavilion. For Tariff apply
to the Proprietresses, Mrs. R. BAXTER & Misses ELLIS.
Llandudno-" The Central.” fv am ± folt a ^ e ,
Convenient to the Station, Post Office, and Sea. Good Table
£iid Attendance. Moderate, F. HART, Proprietor,
26 Llandrindod Wells — Llanfairfechan — London
LLANDRINDOD WELLS, S. WALES.
Beautifully situated in its own grounds
South aspect. Close to Wells
and Baths and Golf
Links.
of fishing,
with every comfort.
Cuisine. Electric Light.
♦
15 miles
Replete
Excellent
Moderate
Terms.
Miss SHEEN, Proprietress.
Llandrindod Wells - 1 Montpellier’ Privat ® Ho r® 1 - " ° n
r open Common.
P.O. Tel. 9. Tels., -Montpellier. 1 Miss TYSOE SMITH.
Llanfairfechan, N. Wales- Gwylanedd,
bedrooms, h. & c. bath. Beautifully situated, commanding view of
Menai Straits, sea, & mountain. Apply Mrs. J. R. GRIFFITHS.
Tlandnllon WQHArlflV Hotel, Family & Commercial. Estab. 1878.
LldilgUlUJll— ndVtJIltJ) Home Comforts. Moderate Terms.-C.T.C.
Motor Car & Cycle accommodation. Picnic Parties catered for.
Butter, Milk, and Eggs Fresh Daily. Mrs. Wm. JONES.
Llangammarch Wells -Cammarch Hotel, clo m s f x ‘° d !C"n g , G w °°h
easily accessible moor, stocked with Grouse and Black Game. Six
miles of Trout & Salmon Fishing, preserved for residential visitors.
Apply to SYDNEY PRICE.
VISITORS TO LONDON.
TRANTER’S temperance HOTEL,
6 to 9, BRIDGEWATER SQUARE, BARBICAN, E.C.
MOST CENTRAL FOR BUSINESS OR PLEASURE.
Close to Aldersgate Street Metropolitan Railway Station, and near St. Paul’s Cathedral,
General Post Office, and ALL Places of Interest. Home-like, Highly Respectable, and
Select. BED and BREAKFAST from 3s. 6d., TEA from Is. to Is. 9d. All other
charges equally moderate. No charge for attendance. Established 1859. Highly
Recommended. Clean and quiet. Electric Light Throughout.
WRITE FOR “Visitors’ Guide," showing “How to Spend a Week (or longer) in
London,” with Tariff and Testimonials combined. Post free on application.
Telegraphic Address— • HEALTHIEST, LONDON.” Night Porter.
Telephone No. 959 Central.
WEST CENTRAL HOTEL.
H FIRST-CLASS Hotel for Ladies and Gentlemen Pronounced by the
Press to be the Best Temperance Hotel in the United Kingdom.
Equally convenient for City and West end. Accommodation for about 250.
Excellent Coffee, Dining, and Smoking Rooms. Electric Light. Lift.
Omnibuses pass the door. Highly commended by Sir James liaslett, M.P. ;
J. S. Iligham, Esq., M.P. ; T. W. Russell, Esq, M.P. ; T. P. Whittaker,
Esq., M.P. ; The Ven. Archdeacon of Durham ; Rev. Dr. Aked ; Rev. J.
TI. Jowett, M.A. ; Mr. Alderman Clegg (Sheffield); and thousands of other
guests in all parts of the Kingdom.
Apartments, Service, and Table d’Hote Breakfast, 5 /- to 6/6 per day,
Dinner, 3 /-. Full Tariff with Guide to London, on application to —
FREDERIC SMITH & SONS, PROPRIETORS.
SOUTHAMPTON ROW, LONDON.
London — Lee Bay — Lizard
27
LOItTIDOILT. Kd
WILD’S
TEMPERANCE HOTELS
(LIMITED),
30 to 40, LUDGATE HILL, E.C.
Central for Charing Cross , Cannon Street , and Holborn
Viaduct Stations for the Continent .
ALSO AT
70 and 71, EUSTON SQUARE.
Close to Easton , Midland , and Great Northern Stations .
Home Comforts . Cleanliness and Quiet.
— • —
CENTRAL FOR BUSINESS OR PLEASURE.
T nminn - Private & High-class Boarding Estab., 29 & 30, Queen
liUUUUU Sq., Bloomsbury. — Centrally situated for City & West End.
Near British Museum, ten minutes’ of King’s Cross, St. Pancras, &
Euston Ry. Stations ; close to principal Omnibus Routes, Electric
Ry. ; 1/- cab fare of chief Theatres. Newly decorated & furnished
throughout, lighted by Electricity, Halls & public rooms heated by
Hot Water System, sanitary arrangements completely renewed with
most modern improvements. Mrs. E. IVENS BLUE, Proprietress.
Salubrious Climate. Atlantic Breezes. A Perfect
Health Resort in Sunny Devon.
MANOR HOTEL.
LEE BAY, NEAR ILFRACOMBE.
HIS Picturesque Family Hotel stands in own grounds,
Vi/ adjoining the Sea and commanding the whole Bay.
Beautiful Valley, grand scenery with the Sea combined.
It is the only licensed premises within 2J miles. Morthoe
Station, 2J miles. Ilfracombe Steamers, 3 miles.
Lizard, Cornwall- Housel Bay Hotel ■ Great Britain. This first-
class Hotel commands magnificent views of the Coast, & is the omy
Hotel situated close to the Sea and beautiful Housel Bay Beach.
Golf, Bathing, Boating, Fishing, Billiards. Motor Car Service to
and from Helston Station (G.W.R.). Tariff on application to the
Manageress.
28
Lizard — Lowestoft
The Lizard-Hill’s Lizard Point Hotel , c a °™ w c .wi? Molo y r &E
vices. Open all the year. Table d’Hote Luncheons, 12.30 to 2.30.
Table d’Hote, 7.30. Families en pension. Bdg. Terms, from £2 10 s,
Lowestoft-Y ictoria Mansions Hotel , First-class. Facing Sea.
Every comfort. Excellent Cuisine. Table d’Hote, separate tables.
Motor and Cycle Accommodation. Telegrams: “Breezes.” Nat.
Tel. 90. H, J. HERON, Resident Proprietor.
Lowestoft-Norfolk House
Trams. Every Comfort. Excellent Cuisine. Moderate Terms.
Cycle Room. Mrs. C. B. BUXTON, Proprietress.
I nwPQtrtft ^mith VlPW Private Bdg. Estab.-Weiiington Espla-
LUYYgoIUU uUUlll 1 1 C u nade. First-class. Centrally situated. Good
Sea View. Electric Light. Excellent Cuisine. Terms Moderate.
Mrs. WESTGATE. Sen., & Daughter (Mr^. TENNER).
T Awocf nff Qnnmr Lana Private Boarding House.— North Cliff.
LUWCblUll— oulllljf 1/C11C Close to Park & Golf Links. Large Tennis
Lawn. Good Sea Views. Excellent Cuisine. Moderate Terms.
Telegrams : “ Healthy, Lowestoft.” Mrs. BIRDSEYE,
T nwoetnft_ThA fluff a Boarding Establishment.— Centre of Pro-
LUYYColUll 1 11 C t/lj 11 C menade. Magnificent Sea Views. Tennis Lawn.
Dining, Drawing, Smoking, and Bath Rooms. Excellent Cuisine.
Mod. Terms. Nat. Tel. 0192. Mr. & Mrs. T. W. WESTGATE.
T AWPQtnft-PiPr Board i n £ Establishment.— Absolutely the finest &
LU YYColUll liCl most central position, directly facing Sea, Pier, Yacht
Basin, & Promenade. Special terms for early & late season on appli-
cation. Excellent Cuisine. Mrs. SMALL, Proprietress.
GRAND HOTEL
T^ELIGHTFULLY situated in its own Magnificent Grounds, on the
highest part of the South Cliff. Over 300 feet Sea Frontage.
The only Hotel in Lowestoft without a public promenade on the Sea
Front. Lawns for Tennis, Bowls, and Croquet. Stabling in the Grounds.
In connection with the
EO'L-AIj HOTEL,
Facing the Pier and Yacht Basin.
T Awncfnft Tho Qiiffnl V Family and Commercial Hotel.— Three
LUWColUll X 11C ullllUliY. minutes from Pier and Esplanade; opposite
G.E.R. Station. “ Most Comfortable Hotel in Eastern Counties.”
Dining Room, with separate tables. Ladies’ Drawing Room. Large
Billiard Room, 3 tables. Hot Luncheon, 1 to 2, 2/6. Table d’Hote
(five courses), from 7 p.m., 3/6. Bedrooms from 3/6. Inclusive
Terms, 10/6 per day. N.B.— Choice Selection of Wines.
Mr. JOHN HARROLD, Proprietor.
A BOOK FOR HOLIDAY READING.
E. PHILLIPS OPPEN HEIM’S WORK.
A m:AK£SR OF HISTORTT.
Crown 8vo, 6s. Of all Booksellers.
London: WARD, LOCK & CO., LIMITED,
Lvnton
29
VALLEY 1)F "ROCKS HOTEL.
r — — — “ — — — \
'TT HE Largest and Principal Hotel in the district. Pephte with every
comf rt. Lighted throughout with Electric Light. Standing high
above all other hotels, 500 ftet above the sea. Large Ornamental
Grounds. Luxurious Lounge. J. W. HOLMAN, Resident Owner.
imperIalTotel
AND
BOARDING ESTABLISHMENT.
BEAUTIFULLY SITUATED, FACING SEA.
MODERATE TARIFF EN PENSION.
ELECTRIC LIGHT. OMNIBUS MEETS TRAINS.
J. W. HOLMAN, Proprietor.
36
Lynmouth
LYNMOUTH.
LYN VALLEY HOTEL
{PLEASE NOTE NAME).
a N Ideal Position — Facing Sea. Lofty and Airy Rooms. All Charges
Strictly Moderate. Electric Light. Billiards. Under Personal Super-
vision of CECIL N. BEVAN, Proprietor.
Telegrams— “ Valley, Lynmouth.”
LYNMOUTH, NORTH DEVON.
LYNDALE HOTEL.
OLD-ESTABLISHED. FIRST-CLASS.
*fOR Families and Tourists, especially Favourable and Attractive. All
JJ Coaches stop at the Hotel. Fishing. Good Stabling. Lock-up Coach-
houses. Motor Accommodation. Charges Strictly Moderate.
Telegrams— ' Lyndale. Lynmouth.’ Mrs. TOM BEVAN, Proprietress
Lynmouth —Loch Awe — Liverpool
3i
LYNMOUTH.
THE TORS HOTEL.
The most Up-to-Date Hotel in the West,
with the Finest Position in England.
W. & K. RIDDELL, Proprietors.
Telegrams— “ Tors, Lynmouth.”
LOCH AWE HOTEL.
SITUATED AMONGST MAGNIFICENT SCENERY.
VIEWS UNRIVALLED.
The centre of numerous Daily Excursions to Places of Great Beauty and
Historical interest. Salmon and Trout Fishing on Loch Awe, Free.
Boating, Billiards, Lawn Tennis, Carriages, &c.
Electric Light Throughout .
PASSENGER LIFT FROM STATION TO HOTEL.
D. FRASER, Proprietor.
LIVERPOOL.
COMPTON
HOTEL.
Telegrams : “ COMPTON.”
Telephones : 58 and 8058.
32
Liverpool
*4$=f
LAURENCE'S
Temperance, Commercial, and Family
Tel. No.
Royal 2,657.
HOTEL
C
20 & 21, CLAYTON SQUARE,
LIVERPOOL.
T HIS Hotel contains upwards of ioo Rooms, includ-
ing COFFEE ROOM, PRIVATE SITTING
ROOMS, BILLIARD, and SMOKE ROOM. The
BEDROOMS are well ventilated and comfortably
furnished. Headquarters, Cyclists’ Touring Club.
The Midland and London and North Western Stations
are within three minutes' walk , and the Lancashire
and Yorkshire Station and Landing Stage
within a convenient distance.
CHARGES STRICTLY MODERATE.
LIVERPOOL
“THE SHAFTESBURY,”
MOUNT PLEASANT.
Td FIRST-CLASS Temperance, Family, and Commercial Hottl. A few
minutes’ walk from Lime Street and Central Stations. Cars from
Landing Stage and Castle St. (near Exchange Station) pass every few
minutes. Electric Light throughout. 100 Rooms. Night Porter.
Telegrams— “ Shaftesbury Hotel, Liverpool.” Telephone 2,244 Royal
Margate — Matlock — Minehead — Mulhon 33
Margate— Queen’s & High Cliffe Hotels- p H 0 ^n^^iea“&
Cliff. Spacious & handsomely-equipped Reception Rooms, Billiard
Room, & Lounges. Special facilities to Golfers & Motorists. Cuisine
unsurpassed. Moderate, inclusive, & illustrated tariff. Telegrams:
"Ozone* Margat e.” Tel. 35 & 50. A. LEON ADUTT, Manager;
Matlock Bath-New Bath Hotel ■ Hotel. Extensive Grounds, Ten*
nis, Croquet, Fishing. Natural Tepid Swimming Bath. Stables*
Coach & Motor Houses. Golf Links near. Apply Manager.
Matlock Bridge-Belle Yu? Hydro • plete treatment for Hydropathy.
Every Comfort. Excellent Cuisine. Heated in Winter. Mod.Terms-
Mr. & Mrs. WARNER, Proprietors (late of Smedley’s Hydro.).
Matlock Bank— Dalefield Hydro .- La ®m f “e di H^ nd F3
Hydropathic Baths. Terms 35/- to 42/- per week.
National Telephone No. 0181. GEO. B. BARTON.
St 3VE EDI.E Y’S
Hydropathic Establishment,
-^iMATLOCK,^
♦
XSSTABIiISHED 1 8 5 3.
♦
Telegrams— “ SMEDLEY’S, MATLOCK BANK.”
Telephone No. 17.
® NE of the largest and most complete in the Kingdom. An unrivalled
suite of Hydropathic Baths, including an up-to-date installation of
Electrical Appliances. Consulting and Resident Physicians. A
large Staff (upwards of 50) of trained male and female Nurses, Masseurs
and Bath Attendants. Milk from own Farm. American Elevator.
Electric Light. Night Attendance. Large Winter Garden. Extensive
Pleasure Grounds. Surrounded by lovely/Mountain Scenery, in the centre
of picturesque Derbyshire.
TERMS : — 8/6 to 12 /- per day inclusive according to Bedroom, no extra
charge for Turkish and Ordinary Hydropathic Baths.
Illustrated Prospectus on application to —
H. CHALLAND, Manager.
Minehead— Hotel Mfltropole.^ y g S^*^-R*S^
Electric Light. Croquet & Tennis Lawns. Large Stabling accom-
modation. Telephone 11. Telegrams: " Metropole, Minehead.”
Mullion, Cornwall-Mullion Cove
of Mounts Bay. Situation unsurpassed. Golf Links within easy
distance. Splendid Fishing, Boating, and Bathing. Billiards.
Terms, apply Manager, Mullion Cove Hotel, Mullion R.S.O.
Guide Series , 1905 - 6 .] 6
34
N ewquay — Oswestry
WATERGATE BAY HOTEL,
Near NEWQUAY, CORNWALL.
1IAERY Comfortable Family Hotel, unrivalled, sheltered position
^ facing the Atlantic. South aspect. Centrally situated for Mawgan,
Bedruthan Steps, Carnanton Woods, Newquay, etc. Two miles of sandy
beach. Bracing climate. Golf Links. Billiards. Stabling. Inclusive
terms on application to the Manageress.
HEADLAND HOTEL
B EST Position on the Cornish jCoast. Invigora-
ting air from the Atlantic. Most comfortable
Hotel and Moderate Tariff. The Renowned Newquay
Golf links adjoin the Hotel. Electric Light. Elec-
tric Lifts. Two Billiard Tables.
National Telephone 0196 Newquay.
ftewAetru—Wvnnef au Hotel & Posting House.— Headquarters of
VWllOolij II J illloldj the Automobile Club ot Great Britain & Ireland.
Inspection Pit nr. Hotel. Lock-up Garages. Every accommodation
for visitors. Fishing in neighbourhood. Tels. f “ Drew, Oswestry.”
Large Crown 8vo. Bound in Cloth. 6s.
THE PILLAR OF LIGHT.
By LOUIS TRACY.
London: Ward, Loch & Co., Limited .
Oxford — Penzance
35
OXFOKD-
MITRE HOTEL,
In the Centre of the Finest Street in Europe.
' ” 4 -
This well-known First-class Hotel for Ladies
and Gentlemen contains Dining, Drawing,
Reading, and Smoking Rooms, also Tea
and Lounge Room.
♦
ELECTRIC LIGHT. NIGHT 1 PORTER.
BILLIARHS. GOGH STABLING.
Tariff on application to the Manageress,
Telephone No. 35. Miss K. THORNTON.
F»ENZAI>CCE«
THE QUEEN S HOTEL
Penzance has the most equable climate in England— Cool in Summer,
Warm in Winter.
T HE Queen’s Hotel is the largest and Principal Family Hotel facing the
Sea and South. It has a frontage of 175 ft., and commands a full and
uninterrupted view of St. Michael’s Mount and Mounts Bay. Magnificent
Public Rooms, all facing the Sea, and Private Suites of Apartments
Moderate Tariff, and inclusive Winter Terms. Apply Manager.
Hotels in connection with the above —
Bull Hotel, Cambridge, York House Hotel, Bath, &c.
EDMUND A. SAUNDERS, Proprietor.
36 Penzance — Plymouth — Pwllheli — Scarborough
DflT17anP0 Marino Rotroat —Situated on Esplanade. Grand Sea
rDllodUtC ludlliic IlbLlcdL. Views. South Aspect. Five minutes
from Ry. Station. Suites of Apartments, with or without Board.
Baths. Highest References. Mrs. MANN, Proprietress.
Plymouth-Hoe Mansions Penslon“ w ^^ pp Sood d chef?Xhs n
Billiards. Terms from 2 guineas weekly.
Mrs. HARDIMAN, Proprietress.
Plymouth— Roslyn House Terrace, The Hoe. Pleasantly situated.
Central for sea, town, & station. Cheerful house. Baths (h. & c.).
Hiehest references given. Te rms, 30/- to 42/-. — Proprietress,
Pwllheli, N. Wales-South Beach situated. Facing Sea. Every
Home Comfort. Private sitting-rooms. Excellent Cuisine. Terms
Mjderate. Telegrams: “Hodgetts, Pwllheli.”
Rams^ate-Und]rwo;d , s B ^^^ m i H ^;^ , I
Sept., 19/- ; Gentlemr , 22/-. August, L., 20 /- ; G., 23/-. Other
months, L., 1 ./-; G., 21 /. Stamp. Mrs. UNDERWOOD.
Rhyl, N. Walci-Thc Charity Situated on West Parade. Facing
Sea. Every Home Comfort. Excellent Cuisine. Moderate Terms.
Special Term- for Winter Visitors. Mrs. CHARLTON.
Rhyl, N. Wales-Chilwell’s Private Hotel lishment. West
Parade. Facing Sea. Home Comfort combined with Moderate
Charges. Special Terms for Winter. Mrs. CHILWELL.
Rhyl, N. Wales-Grosvenor Temperance Hotel, Commer-
cial. Opposite Station. Schools, Choirs, and Parties specially
catered for. Restaurant. A. W. JAMES, Proprietor.
Ripoa, Yorks-Unicorn Hotel Xn^M^he^of
Wales. Families visiting Studley, Fountains Abbey, and neigh-
bourhood will find the comforts of home at this old-established first-
class Hotel, the largest, best appointed, most liberally managed
in the City. Picnic parties provided with Luncheons, Dinners, etc.
Orders by post promptly attended to. Brakes & Carriages of every
description. Telegrams — “ Unicorn, Ripon.” Telephone No. 4 .
QalfhllTUl hv Qpa VipfftYUfl Temp. Hotel, Family & Commercial.
OaiLUUiU-U.y-OCa nllUlia First-Class, Splendid situation, Sea View.
Close to pier, gardens, baths, golf links. Excellent cuisine, moderate
terms. Motor accommodation. Miss FLEUR Y, Proprietress.
Saltburn-by-the-Sea— BRITANNIA HOUSEI^^SS*:
Magnificent Views of Sea, Cliff, & Valley ; near Pier, Gardens, Baths,
and Golf Links. Highly recommended. Special Winter Terms.
SCAKBORGUGH.
GAINSBOROUGH PRIVATE HOTEL,
SOUTH CLIFF.
S TANDS in its own Grounds. Close to Spa, Esplanade,
and Golf Links. Indoor Badminton. Electric Light.
Terms Moderate. Table d’Hote (Separate tables or a
la carte). Special Terms for Winter and Permanent
Residents.
Telegrams— 11 CANTAB, SCARBOROUGH. ” Nat Telephone 0202.
Scarborough - Salcombe — Sonthsea 37
Scarborough-Waverley HoW.~ F sSS£
Spa & Sands. Rtplete with every Comfort. Moderate Terms.
Nat. Tel. 0246. L. WATERFALL, Proprietor.
Scarborough, Yorks-Spa Boarding Establishment ■ class.
Standing in its own grounds. Contains 70 Rooms, Lounge,
Library, Smoking, Drawing, and Recreation Rooms. Magnificent
Dining Hall. Electric Passenger Lift. Telephone and Electric
Light in all Bedrooms. Baths (h. & c.). Excellent Cuisine. College
Chef and Kitchen Staff from Oxford. Nat. Tel. 100. Telegrams —
“ Ashley, Scarboro.” T. A. P. ASHLEY. Proprietor.
QpflrhArmidh Airanna Boarding House.— South Cliff. Facing Sea.
OUII UUI UUgll-ii Y CilUti Beautifully situated. Near Golf Links. Tennis
and Croquet Lawn. Billiard Room. Every Comfort. Electric
Light. Nat. Tel. 0244. Telegrams “Avenue, Scarboro.”
Mrs. CLARKSON, Proprietress.
Scarborough, Yorks-St. Mary’s House Boarding Estab-
lishment. — Near the Sea. Overlooking North and South Bays
Smoke Room. Home Comforts. Moderate Terms. Special
Terms for Winter Months. Apply Proprietress.
Scarborough, Yorks-Crescent Private Hotel and Ho B u r dins
Established nearly 30 years. Splendid situation. Near Spa, &c.
Views of Sea and Cliffs. Moderate Terms. Telegrams —
“ Crescent Hotel, Scarboro.” H. D. SUMMERS, Proprietor.
Qparhnrmidh— u RAlla V110 ” Temperance Hotel.— Opposite Main
Ovdl UUlUUgll DC 11 C I UC Carriage Entrance to Railway Station.
Billiard Room. Terms fr. £ 2 . 2s. per wk. Electric Trams pass door.
Boots meets all trains. J. M. ATKINSON, Proprietor.
QAQT»hnr>niidh Qt Alma Boarding House, South Cliff.— 3 minutes’
OldlUUlUUgll 01 . Hlllla from Esplanade & Spas. Near New Golf
Links. Billiard & Smoke Rooms. Illustrated Tariff on application.
Telegrams: “ St. Alma.” Tel. 0236. Mrs. ARMSTRONG.
Scarborough Blanchard’s Private Hotel. _ ci?ff an o d v^iooking
Spa & Bay. Close to Golf Link. Apply Mrs. N. HICKSON.
Telegrams — “ Blanchard’s Hotel, Scarboro .” Nat. Tel. 0245.
Scarborough-Red Lea I Granville B °^^ U uae t d bs F U u e se a
Views. Every Comfort. Open all the year. Table d’ Ho te, 6.30,
Separate Tables. Terms from £ 2 2s. Misses RIDLEY.
Scarborough -Leighton House &ISE:
Gardens, Station, &c. Reading & Smoking Rooms. Billiard Table.
Cycling Accommodation. Moderate Terms. Mrs. HART.
Salcombe, S. Devon-York House,
Adjoining and overlooking Harbour. Private Quay Frontage.
Ideal Summer or Winter Resort. Write for Tariff.
Southsea-Glenyon Private HoteL- c ^ R ^ with F :£*
comfort. Billiard Room. Electric Light. En Pension. Moderate
Terms. Nat. Tel. 741. Mrs. S. SMITH, Proprietress.
Southsea— Sandringham Private Hotel. - *” Front
Mr. and Mrs. THOS. SMITH, Proprietors.
38
Southsea — Southport — Sidmouth
Southsea- Scullard’ s Victoria Hotel,
and Residential. Centrally
situated, close to Clarence Pier and Parade. Replete with every comfort.
Table cl'IIote. excellent Cuisine. Mod. Terms. Electric Cars pass the door.
Mun. Tel. No. 678. Mrs. SCULL ARP, Proprietress.
Southport- Prince of Wales Hotel ■ Central & Comfortable. Ex-
quisite Cuisine. Tariff Moderate. Electric Light. Lift. Tels. :
“ Prince, Southport.’* Nat. Tel. 15. Hy. GASCOIGNE, Manager.
SOUTHPORT.
Smedley Hydropathic Establishment.
ELECTRIC LIGHT . LATE DINNERS.
The finest Turkish, Russian and other Baths in the Kingdom,
and the most complete sanitary arrangements.
Terms from 7/6 per Day.
Summer Terms, June 1 to September 30, from 6/- per Day.
Electric Trams from the House to Southport.
SIDMOUTH, S. DEVON.
FORTFIELD HOTEL
( Recently Enlarged ).
H
n>
H FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL, complete with every luxury and
convenience. Stands in its own private grounds, full south and
facing sea. Three minutes from Medical Baths, close to Golf Links.
Completely sheltered from North and East winds. Furnished by Maple
& Co. Heated throughout. Private Suites of Apartments. Magnificent
Drawing, Dining. Lounge, Billiard, and .Smoking Rooms. High-class
Cuisine. Selected Wines. Moderate Tariff. Home Comforts. Sanitary
arrangements perfect. Private Omnibus.
MICHAEL HEALY, Proprietor and Manager.
(Late of the Knowle Hotel.)
Slateford
39
EDINBURGH
HYDROPATHIC,
SLATEFORD, MIDLOTHIAN,
Fine Bracing Air off tne Pentland Hills,
equal to that of Braemar.
EXTENSIVE GhROIJXDS.
The Largest and Finest Lawns in Scotland for Croquet,
Lawn Tennis, and Bowls.
TOURNAMENTS FOR LAWN TENNIS & CROQUET.
HALF-MILE CYCLE COURSE, Etc.
DARK ROOM FOR PHOTOGRAPHY.
Terms from £2 12s. 6d. Per Week .
Frequent Communication between the Establishment
and the City (20 minutes). Fare 3d.
40
Strathpeffer
STRATHPEFFER HIGHLAND SPA.
BEN WYVIS Principal HOTEL
Oldest Hote l."
L^'hPEFFER
HIGHEST SITUATION in STRATHPEFFER
FOUR HUNDRED FEET ABOVE THE SEA.
r T > HE Hotel stands on its own grounds, and is secluded
X enough to secure to visitors the privacy and quiet ofVn
ordinary country residence. Contains SPACIOU S PUBLIC
ROOMS, CONSERVATORIES, LIBRARY, BALL and
RECREATION ROOMS. Close to the GOLF COURSE.
CYCLE, and CROQUET and TENNIS COURTS in Hotel
Grounds. Salmon and Trout Fishing in River and Lochs.
Electric Light throughout.
A. WALLACE, Managing Director.
Strathpeffer — Symonds Yat — Teignmouth — Torquay 41
HIGHLAND SPA
STB A TIIPEFFER, BOSS-SHIRE.
+
These Sulphur Waters are among the Strongest in Europe, and are
unrivalled in Great Britain in the treatment of
CHRONIC RHEUMATISM, DISEASES OF THE SKIN, AND
AFFECTIONS OF THE LIVER AND KIDNEYS.
Superior Effervescing Chalybeate Spring, unique in this country, Sulphur,
Peat, and Pine Baths. Douches in great variety. Massage, etc. Splendid
Golf Course, Bowling, etc. First-class Band and Entertainments during
the season.
Symonds Yat-Royal Hotel » Office, & Church. Raglan, Chepstow,
& Goodrich Castle, Tintern Abbey. Salmon and Trout Fishing.
Stalactite Caves. Billiards. H. C. BAUMGARTE, Crown Lessee.
Tnirlnmnnfh < ‘ BarmnarV ” Private Hotel & Boarding Estab.
ItUgumUlilii-- DdilipalA Sea, River, & Moorland Excursions.
Baths. Excellent Cuisine. Well-appointed. Moderate Terms.
Mr. & Mrs. HENSON ( Formerly of Hastings).
Teignmouth, S. Devon -Marina Pension • fully situated facing
the Sea. S.W. aspect. Unrivalled Views. Every Home Comfort.
Liberal Table. Moderate Terms. Miss M. J. PARSONS.
ToidTimmith— Wact T awn Private Hotel. — High-class. Stands in
lclglllilUULIl livJul LdWil own grounds, 3 acres. Close to Pier and
Station. Baths, Billiards, Tennis. In connection with Brine Baths.
Week-end terms, 13/-. On C.T.C. Apply Proprietress.
The South Devon Health & Holiday Resort.
One of the Loveliest Spots in the County. Climate
probably Unsurpassed in England. First-class
Turkish & other Baths. For terms, apply to C. F.
CARPENTER, Bishop’s Teignton, nr. Teignmouth.
TimillAV ftllfP fmirt Private Hotel & Boarding Estab.— Standing in
JLUlqUtlj DULC vUUl L own grounds, facing south, overlooking Tor Bay.
Well-appointed Public Rooms, Smoking Lounge. Week-end terms.
For tariff, apply Proprietress (late Avenue Hotel, Minehead).
Boarding Establishment. — Situated
in its own private grounds. Near
Sea, Station, and Town. Every Comfort. Excellent Cuisine.
Moderate Terms. Mr. & Mrs. MILDREN, Proprietors.
Torquay-Crofton House
TOEQUiLlT.
OSBORNE HOTEL
ON Private Grounds, with
A magnificent and uninter-
rupted Sea and Land Views.
South aspect. Billiard room.
Tennis and Croquet Lawns.
Secluded Sea Bathing. Sani-
tation Certified.
W. WE ST AW AY,
PROPRIETOR.
Nat. Telephone 183.
42
Torquay
TOBQ UA Y, DE VON.
Hotel
(NEAREST STATION).
B EST and MOST convenient position,
Facing Sea. Unrivalled views. Electric Light.
Heated. Statutory Sanitary Certificate, January, 1902.
Ground Floor Suites. No Extra Charge for Attendance.
Nat, Tel. No. 134. J. B. GILLEY, Proprietor.
Also Proprietor of Clarence Hotel , Torre.
Close to all places of interest. Grounds extend to sea front.
Electric Light throughout. Terms moderate. Cuisine Excellent.
Nat. Telephone No. 113. Mr. & Mrs. WILLIAM GRESHAM.
TORQUAY.
PRIVATE BOARDING ESTABLISHMENT.
South aspect, beautifully situated,
Good sea and land views. Own
Lawn Tennis Courts (free
to Visitors).
:-to£
(H
A
few minutes'
walk from Sta-
tion, Town, Churches,
Chapels, and all places of inter-
est. Sanitary arrangements perfect.
Large and well ventilated rooms- Baths
.. and C.). Excellent cuisine.
Mrs. Mann, Proprietress.
Torquay — Warwick — Whitby 43
Torquay— Savernake Mansion Station, Sea, & Town. Good Sea
Views. Heated in Winter. Baths. Billiards. Tennis & Croquet.
Terms fr. £i ios. to £2. 10s. week. Mrs. HAWKINS , Proprietress.
Torquay-The Sandringham
Town. South Aspect, & sheltered from N. & E. winds. Billiards.
Electric Light. Sanitation perfect. Miss WEST, Manageress.
Tamil Rnlfrme First-class Boarding Establishment.
iUlVjUuj 111 C DUllUilo Charmingly situated in one of the best
positions. Facing Sea. Near Station, and within short distance
of Golf Links. Up-to-date. Sanitary Certificate. Electric
Light throughout. Billiards. Bath (H. & C. ). Late Dinner.
Separate Tables. Nat. Tel. No. 244. Tariff, apply
Mrs. E. RICHARDS.
THE WOOLPACK.
$mt-€hxs JmtHg field.
/II\UCH enlarged, and heated throughout in winter. Within a few
i IU minutes' walk of St. Mary’s Church, the Castle, and Earl of
Leycester’s Hospital, and centrally situated for visiting Guy’s Cliffe,
Kenilworth, Stoneleigh Abbey, Charlecote Park, and Stratford-on-Avon.
LADIES’ COFFEE ROOM. BATHROOMS. SMOKING LOUNGE.
EXCELLENT STABLING. CHARGES MODERATE.
Motor Garage, Inspection Pit.
Mrs. HALBEARD, Proprietress.
WHITBY.
WEST CLIFF PRIVATE HOTEL
ant) J3oav5iii(i Establishment,
ROYAL CRESCENT.
NRIVALLED Situation, facing the Sea. Close to Saloon, Tennis
wt Courts, Sands, and Bathing, and near Golf Links. Smoking Rooms,
Bath Rooms, “Dark” Room for Photographers. Cycle Accommodation.
Table d’Hote7p.m. Moderate Terms. Mrs. NEWBITT, Proprietress.
Telegrams— “NEW BITT, WHITBY .” Nat Tel. No. 0100.
WHITBY.
ROYAL HOTEL.
(Forming part of the West Cliff Estate.)
T HE Hotel occupies a position which cannot be equalled,
and maintains a half-century’s reputation for thorough
comfort. Tariff on application to the Hotel.
HY. WALKER, General Manager.
44
Whitby — Worthing — Great Yarmouth
Whitby-
-fWQPont Boarding House, .
UlOubClll the Sea and Gardens. Near Golf Links. Public
: 5, Royal Crescent. — Facing
and Private Rooms. Cycle accommodation. Terms on application.
Mrs. PATTISON.
Whitby Harold Private Hotel ment, West ^fcliff. Cuisine
Good. Home Comforts. Tariff, apply
Mrs. JOHNSTONE, Proprietress.
Worthing-Channel View Position. Near Pier, Tennis, and
Bandstand. Excellent Cuisine. Smoking Room. Cycle House.
Golf Links near. Misses WHITTAKER.
Great Yarmouth-Queen’s Hotel ■ Parade. Facing Sea, Gardens,
New Pier, and Aquarium. 125 Rooms. Table d’Hdte at separate
tables. Illustrated Tariff post free. J. W. NIGHTINGALE.
RACKHAM & CO.’S
Small Blaclz:
PEARL PILLS.
4fOR ALL DISEASES OF THE LIVER, and as a geeral Tonic in
JJ cases of Nervous Debility and Exhaustion; also as a Blood Purifier,
keeping the skin and complexion clear, brilliant, and free from Pimples,
Humour, etc., their action is certain.
In Bottles (120 Pills), 1/1% and 2/9, of all Chemists;
or 1/3 and 2/10 post free from the Sole Proprietors —
PACKHAM & CO St. Peter’s , Nomvich.
THE WONDER BOOK.
a flMcture annual for JSogs an& ©Iris.
Crown 4 to, Picture Boards, 3s. 6d. ; Cloth Gilt, Gilt
Edges, 5s. ; containing
8 Full-page Plates in Colour,
Beautifully reproduced from Paintings by Leading
Artists of the day.
260 Other Illustrations,
Printed in various Tints.
258 Pages of brightly written Stories,
Articles, and Verses, adapted for Children of all
sorts and ages.
A BOOK FAR in ADVANCE of ANYTHING NOW PUBLISHED.
A MAGNIFICENT PICTURE GALLERY for CHILDREN.
LONDON: WARD, LOCK & CO., LIMITED.
Guide Book Advertiser
45
mineryFlibrary
NEW SERIES.
Large Cr. 8vo, Art Linen, Extra Gilt, Fully Illustrated, 2 /-
1 Missionary Travels and Researches in South
Africa. With portrait and full-page plates. By
David Livingstone, LL.D., D.C.L.
2 A Journal of Researches during the Voyage of
H.M.S. “Beagle” round the World. By
Charles Darwin, M.A., F.R.S., with portrait of Darwin, and
other illustrations.
3 Life and Correspondence of Thomas Arnold, D.D.
By Arthur Penrhyn Stanley, D.D. Wiih a portrait of Dr.
Arnold, and other illustrations.
4 Travels on the Amazon and Rio Negro. By
Alfred Russel Wallace, LL.D. With portrait of the Author,
and other illustrations.
5 Essays, Historical and Literary. By Lord
Macaulay. Fully illustrated from po traits.
6 Lavengro; The Scholar, The Priest, The Gipsy.
By George Borrow. Illustrated from portraits.
7 Emerson’s Prose Works. With portrait of the
Author.
8 Coral Reefs, Volcanic Islands, and South
American Geology. By Charles Darwin, M.A., F.R.S.
With various maps, illustrations, and portrait of the Author.
9 The Romany Rye, A Sequel to Lavengro. By
George Borrow. Illustrated from old prints and portraits.
10 The French Revolution : A History. By Thomas
Carlyle. With full-page illustrations.
11 Sartor Resartus ; Heroes and Hero Worship;
and Past and Present, By Thomas Carlyle. Illustrated
from photographs.
12 Essays— Biographical, Critical, & Miscellaneous.
By Lord Macaulay. Illustrated from photographs.
13 Society in China. By Robert K. Douglas. Illus-
trated from photographs.
14 The Bible in Spain. By George Borrow. Illus-
trated from photographs.
15 Oliver CromwelFs Letters and Speeches. By
Thomas Carlyle. With full-page illustrations.
16 On the Origin of Species : By Mean s of Natural
Selection. By Charles Darwin, M. A., F.R.S. Illustrated by
photographs.
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trated from Photographs.
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Egyptians. By Edward William Lane. With 16 full-page
plates.
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Large Crown 8vo, Cloth Gilt , Illustrated, 1/6
Well printed on good paper. Each volume illustrated by
well-known Artists, and attractively bound in cloth gilt,
with special design.
I
Little Women
L. M. Alcott
2
Good Wives
L. M. Alcott
3
The Lamplighter
Miss Cummins
4
Uncle Tom’s Cabin
Mrs. H. B. Stowe
5
The Wide, Wide World
E. Wetherell
6
Queeehy
Elizabeth Wetherell
7
Prince of the House of David J. H. Ingraham
8
The Throne of David
J. H. Ingraham
9
Melbourne House
Elizabeth Wetherell
IO
From Jest to Earnest
Rev. E. P. Roe
ii
Standish of Standish
Jane G. Austin
12
A Knight of the Nineteenth Century
Rev. E. P. Roe
13
What Katy did at Home and at School
Susan Coolidge
14
The Old Helmet
Elizabeth Wetherell
15
Daisy
Elizabeth Wetherell
16
Without a Home
Rev. E. P. Roe
17
Barriers Burned Away
Rev. E. P. Roe
18
Ben Hur
Lew Wallace
19
Beulah
A. J. Evans Wilson
20
Infeliee
A. J. Evans Wilson
21
St. Elmo
A. J. Evans Wilson
22
At the Mercy of Tiberius
A. J. Evans Wilson
23
A Young Girl’s Wooing
Rev. E. P. Roe
25
Titus
Florence M. Kingsley
26
John Halifax, Gentleman
Mrs. Craik
27
In His Steps
Charles M. Sheldon
28
The Pillar of Fire
Rev. J. H. Ingraham
29
Mabel Vaughan
Miss Cummins
LONDON : WAlilJ, LOCK & CO., LIMITED .
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THE LILY SERIES— continued.
30
Miss Lou
Rev. E. P. Roe
31
Holiday House
Catherine Sinclair
33
Opening a Chestnut Burr
Rev. E. P. Roe
34
Maearia
A. J. Evans Wilson
35
A Man’s Foes
E. H. Strain
3d
A Day of Fate
Rev. E. P. Roe
37
Prisoners of the Sea
F. M. Kingsley
45
He Fell in Love with His Wife Rev. e. p. Roe
46
Two Years Ago
Charles Kingsley
47
Danesbury House
Mrs. Henry Wood
48
Ministering Children
Miss Charlesworth
49
Moniea
E. Everett Green
50
A Face Illumined
Rev. E. P. Roe
5i
Vashti
A. J. Evans Wilson
52
The Earth Trembled
Rev. E. P. Roe
53
Princess Sarah
John Strange Winter
54
His Sombre Rivals
Rev. E. P. Roe
55
The Cross Triumphant
F. M. Kingsley
5d
Paul
Florence M. Kingsley
57
An Original Belle
Rev. E. P. Roe
58
Daisy in the Field
E. Wetherell
59
Naomi
Mrs. J. B. Webb
60
Near to Nature’s Heart
Rev. E. P. Roe
61
Edward Blake
Chas. M. Sheldon
62
That Lass 0’ Lowrie’s
F. H. Burnett
64
Stepping Heavenward
E. Prentiss
65
Inez
A. J. Evans Wilson
66
Helen’s Babies
John Habberton
67
Agatha’s Husband
Mrs. Craik
68
The Head of the Family
Mrs. Craik
69
A Ring of Rubies
Mrs. L. T. Meade
70
The Days of Bruce
Grace Aguilar
7i
Adam Bede
George Eliot
72
East Lynne
Mrs. Henry Wood
73
The Channings
Mrs. Henry Wood
74
Mrs. Halliburton’s Troubles Mrs. Henry Wood
75
A Life for a Life
Mrs. Craik
76
The Mill on the Floss
George Eliot
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BY POPULAR AUTHORS.
Large Crown 8vo . Bound in Cloth Gilt, and mostly Illustrated.
By STANLEY WE V MAN
My Lady Rotha
By S. R. CROCKETT
Joan of the Sword Hand
Strong Mac
By MAX PEMBERTON
Pro Patria
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A Gentleman’s Gentleman
Jewel Mysteries
The Gold Wolf
By A. E. W. MASON
Lawrence Clavering
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Jarwick, the Prodigal
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When I was Czar
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A Courier of Fortune
By SIR Wm. MAGNAY, Bt.
The Red Chancellor
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Count Zarka
A Prince of Lovers
Fauconberg
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A Man’s Fear
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In Happy Hollow
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Phil Conway
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Tommy Carteret
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Willow, the King
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The Trifler
The Custodian
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W POND’S "
ARTH RITICUS
(AR-THRIT-ICUS)
Js composed of Mineral Saline Salts and taken in a pleasant
effervescent form.
Cures Gout, Rheumatism,
Rheumatic Gout, Lumbago, Sciatica
and all
Rheumatic Affections.
IT CONTAINS NO Dili: US, XO COLCHICUM.
Arthriticus neutralizes all Gouty and Rheumatic Acidity in
the Stomach, Liver, and Bowels ; removes the offending
matter from the System, the Blood is purified, the Liver and
Kidneys are relieved, the Joints become supple, and there is
a general freedom from pain. The Skin, participating in the
improvement, loses any Gouty Eczema which may exist, and
assumes a healthy appearance.
PREPARED ONLY BY
GEO. P. POND & SON, Chemists, 68, Fleet Street, London.
PRESERVE YOUR TEETH.
JET \J 131 J J iS PREVENT TOOTH-ACHE.
TOOTH PASTE
1/-, 2/6, and 4/-
DE COURCY’S TOOTH
NERVE DESTROYER, Is,
An Instant Cure for Tooth-ache.
Painless and most easy of application.
DE COURCY’S ENAMEL
FOR STOPPING TEETH, Is.
A permanent stopping. Prevents tooth-ache recurring. POST FREE.
Prepared only by GEO. P. POND & SON,
68, FLEET STREET, CITY, LONDON.
ORIGINAL
PLYMOUTH
GIN.
STannfact/ured Solely by
COATES & CO.,
BUCK FRIARS DISTILLERY, PLYMOUTH.
BOSTON COLLEGE
' mil
HI
ill
III
1 j
II
|
Seeds and Bulbs 1
90S
1
024
7^
47
3
1
fj« Flower s Kitchen Garden
of Finest Selected Strains %.Test ed Growth
Barr’s Collections of Best Vegetable Seeds
Contain a Liberal Selection of high quality Vegetable
Seeds, sufficient for one year’s supply. 5 / 6 , 7 / 6 ,
12 / 6 , 21 /-, 42 /-, 63 /-, and 105 /-
Barr’s Collections of Choice Flower Seeds.
The most useful and decorative Annuals, Perennials, &c.,
for the Flower Garden and Greenhouse. 2 / 6 , 5 / 6 ,
10 / 6 , 21 /-, 30 /-, 42 /-, 63 /-
BARR’S SEED GUIDE contains a descriptive List of the best Vegetables
and the most beautiful Flowers for Garden and Greenhouse, with many
useful hints on culture. Invaluable to Gardeners, Amateurs, and
Exhibitors. Free on Application.
BARR & SONS, 11, 12, & 13, King St., Covent Garden, London.
Aurseries — DITTON HILL. Surbiton, Surrey. Visitors Invited.