tyoyal Exchange Assurance A.D. 1720. Fire, Life, Sea, Accidents, Burglary, Employers’ Liability, Fidelity Guarantees, Annuities. FUNDS IN HAND £ 5 , 250 , 000 . The Corporation will act as : TRUSTEE OF WILLS AND SETTLEMENTS. EXECUTOR OF WILLS. Full Prospectus on application to the Secretary. Head Office— ROYAL EXCHANGE, LONDON, E.C. West End Branch : 29, PALL MALL, S.W. 'n.i Covr*~\ BIRKBECK BANK. ESTABLISHED 1851. 24 per cent INTEREST allowed on DEPOSIT ACCOUNTS Repayable on Demand. 2 per cent. INTEREST allowed on CURRENT ACCOUNTS on minimum monthly balances when not drawn below £100. ♦ Advances made to Customers, and all General Banking Business transacted. Apply C. F. RAVENSCROFT, Secretary , Southampton Buildings, High Holborn, W.C. NATIONAL PROVIDENT - INSTITUTION - FOR MUTUAL LIFE ASSURANCE. ASSURANCES AND ANNUITIES OF ALL KINDS, WITH OR WITHOUT PROFITS. Accumulated Funds over £6,000,000 Paid in Claims more than £12,500,000 PROFITS. These are divided every five years solely amongst the Assured. At the 1902 Division a Cash Profit of £761,602 was apportioned amongst the Members, being considerably more than one third of the amount paid in Premiums during the previous five years. ENDOWMENT-ASSURANCE Policies are issued, combining Life Assurances at minimum cost, with provision for old age, and are singularly advantageous. 48, Gracechurch Street, L. F* Hovil, London, E.C. Actuary and Secretary. Applications for Agencies Invited. To fact 2nd Cover] BY SPECIAL ROYAL WARRANT TO HIS MAJESTY THE KING. JOHN JAMESON’S PURE POT STILL WHISKEY, made from the finest Home-grown Malt and Corn, and celebrated for its superb quality for more: thaw too years. JOHN JAMESON & SON, Ltd., Bow Street Distillery, DUBLIN. DISTILLERS TO H.M. THE KING. MAY BE HAD OF ALT 'j WINE MEBCHANTS. EVERY TOURIST HIS OWN INTERPRETER! MARLBOROUGH’S “SELF-TAUGHT” SERIES OF EUROPEAN AND ORIENTAL LANGUAGES. Containing Travel-Talk for Railway, Steamboat, Customs, Hotel, Post Office, Shopping, Amusements, &c. Tables — Money, Weights & Measures. Conversations, Vocabularies. Elementary Grammar arranged for Learning AT A GLANCE with ENGLISH PHONETIC PRONUNCIATION. •tJ FRENCH \ Self- I *f ITALIAN \ Self- *t+ GERMAN J Taught. | *f SPANISH / Taught. Wrapper, 1/- each. Cloth, 1/6 each. •t DANISH *t NORWEGIAN •j SWEDISH j Wrapper, Self- L ’ Taught. I 2 /- each. t+ PORTUGUESE t: DUTCH *t RUSSIAN Cloth, 2/6 each. Self- Taught. * With Cycling Terms, f With Photographic Terms, t With Motoring Terms Complete List of the “Self-Taught” Eeriea on application. Of all Books eller a, Bookstalls, and Tourist Agents. E. MARLBOROUGH & CO., 51, Old Bailey, London. A SURE CURE Tfor all Coughs, Colds, Catarrhs, ^ r Hay Fever, Influenza. Asthma,! r Bronchitis, etc. Rapid and reliable I in its effects. Checks a slight cold 1 with ONE DOSE. Cures a severe cold 1 IN 24 HOURS. Of all Chemists, 1/1*, 2/9, & 4/6, or i post free direct from iLEATH & ROSS, 58, Duke Street, Grosvenor Square, LONDON, W. SANITARY Zhe Greatest Jtfoderij Jmprovenje/jt for "Women’s Comfort. In Packets containing one dozen, from CcJ. to 2/* From all Drapers, Ladies’ Outfitte 1 s and Chemists. A Containing three size O, and one each size I — j| ft wdllipU# j, 2 & 4 Towels, will be sent post free fori Packet S ' X stam P s on a PP^' lcat ^ on to t .^ ie Lady j T and Of DOWNY SOFTNESS c Totoels ^Itoags Hje moil (Delcme.flrtistic cClp-lo-Dafa Our Trade Mark. “ The EASEL &■ PaLETTE * APPEARS ON EVERY GENUINE TUCK P05TCAR& Sold by the leading dealers throughout the: World, To face Half-title'] Killarney & South-West Ireland. DELIGHTFUL STEAMER TRIPS SALOON STEAMERS run daily (Sundays excepted) between OXFORD, HENLEY, & KINGSTON. DOWN TRIP. Oxford dep. . . 9.30 a.m., 2.30 p.m. Wallingford arr. abt. 1.40 p.m., 6.40p.m. „ dep. abt. 2.40 p.m., 9.0 a.m. Henley arr. about . 7.0 p.m., 1.30 p.m. „ dep. „ . 9.50 a.m., 2.40 p.m. Windsor arr. „ , 1.45 p.m., 7.15 p.m. „ dep.,, . 2.40 p.m., 9.15 a.m. Kingston arr. „ . 7.10 p.m., 1.30 p.m. Kingston dep. Windsor arr. about .. dep. „ Henley arr. „ „ dep. „ Wallingford arr. „ ,, dep. „ Oxford arr. „ ., 2.30 p.m. 1.40 p.m., 7.15 p.m. 2.40 p.m., 9.15 a.m. 7.15 p.m., 1.40 p.m. 9.0 a.m., 2.40 p.m. 1.40 p.m., 7.15 p.m. 2.40 p.m., 9.0 a.m. 7.10 p.m., 1.15 p.m. UP TRIP. 9.0 a.m The through journey occupies two days each way, but passengers can join or leave the boat at any of the locks or regular stopping places. Circular Tickets for combined Rail- way and Steamer Trips are issued at most of the principal G.W.R. Stations, also at Waterloo, Richmond, and Kingston Stations, L. & S.W. Railway. Time Tables giving full particulars of arrangements, fares, etc., post free, Id. ROWING BOATS of all kinds for Excursions down the River at Charges which include Cartage hack to Oxford. Full Particulars on application. STEAM, ELECTRIC AND MOTOR LAUNCHES for Hire by the Day or Week, and also for the Trip. Boats 0/ every description , Canoes , Punts, Ere., built to order. A targe selection, both New A Second-hand, kept in readiness for Sale or Hire. Illustrated Price Lists may be had on application. HOUSE BOATS FOR SAL F OR HIRE, 6r ALSO BUILT TO ORDER. SALTER BROTHERS, Boat Builders, Folly Bridge. OXFORD. A pictorial anO Descriptive (BuiDe TO THE LAKES of KILLARNEY, GLENGARIFF, AND SOUTH-WEST IRELAND, INCLUDING A GUIDE TO CORK. jfiftb JECution— IRcvisefc. WITH THREE MAPS AND SIXTY-SIX ILLUSTRATIONS. LONDON : WARD, LOCK AND CO., LIMITED. qqu ms PS No Charge for Attendance. The Wesfn iinQ % Palace Hotel. v iOTuKIA STRfc - DON, S.W. M OST convenient situation for Business or Pleasure. Opposite Westminster Abbey and the Houses of Parliament. The Building is F ; -eproof, with Electric Light throughout, Hydraulic Passenger Lifts, and all the latest modern improvements. Spacious Reading, Writing, Dining, Drawing Rooms and Hall Lounge, together with Smoking and Billiard Rooms, are set apart for the convenience of visitors to the Hotel and their friends. Revised Tariff for present season on application. Visitors are received at Fixed Inclusive Rates, from 11 - per day, or Bedroom Electric Light Service, and Breakfast, from 5/6 per day. GEO. J. BRINKWORTH, Manager. Telephone -Nat. No. 70, WESTMINSTER ; P.0. 482 VICTORIA MAPS. v Map of South- West Ireland ..... Frontispiece Plan of Cork ....... Faces p. 17 The Killarney Lakes ...... ,,73 CONTENTS. PAGE Hotels and Their Tariffs ...... vii Routes and Fares ........ i Dublin to Killarney and Cork ..... 10 Cork .......... 17 A Tour of the City ....... 30 Excursions from Cork ....... 45 I. Cork Harbour, Queenstown, Crosshaven, etc. . 45 II. To Aghada, Roche’s Point, Cloyne, and Ballycotton 54 III. To Blarney Castle ...... 56 IV. Youghal and the Blackwater . . . .61 Killarney and the Lakes ...... 73 First Day ........ 86 Second Day ........ 93 Third Day ........ 99 Fourth Day ........ 109 Fifth Day . . . . . . . .120 Sixth Day . . . . . . . .122 Cycling Routes ........ 124 Round the Coast of Kerry ...... 129 Killarney to Cork by the Prince of Wales Route . . 149 Cork to Glengariff and Killarney by the Macroom Route . . . . . . . . . 174 Science Notes ........ 180 Index. . . . . 183 v ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE The “ Ulster ” (Irish Mail Boat) 2 The L. and N.-W. R. Ex- press Steamer “ Cam- bria ” . . -4 British and Irish Steam Pac- ket Co.’s Steamer . . 8 The Quays and St. Patrick’s Bridge, Cork .... g O’Connell Bridge and Sack- ville Street, Dublin . . ii The Rock of Cashel . . 13 View from the Marina, Cork 16 St. Fin Barre’s Cathedral 19 St. Patrick’s Bridge . . 21 The Lee near Shandon . 24 Pope’s Quay and Domini- can Church .... 29 Parliament Bridge and Father Mathew Memo- rial Church . . . .31 St. Patrick’s Street. . . 33 The Mar dyke . . . -39 Shandon Church ... 40 On the Lee 43 Queenstown Harbour . . 49 Queenstown 51 An Irish Cottage ... 54 Blarney Castle .... 57 Myrtle Grove .... 63 The Blackwater at Cappo- quin 65 At Mount Melleray. . . 67 Lismore Castle .... 68 An Ice- Rounded Sandstone Bluff at Loo Bridge . 7 2 The Catholic Cathedral, Killarney 74 Arbutus Island, Upper Lake 77 Middle Lake and Devil’s Island 79 General view of the Lakes from the Kenmare Road 83 Doorway, Muckross Abbey 87 Muckross Abbey ... 88 PAGE Tunnel on the Kenmare Road 91 The Tore Cascade ... 92 The Devil’s Punch Bowl . 95 Macgillycuddy’s Reeks . 97 Ross Castle 101 Cottage on Ross Island . 102 Innisfallen Island . . . 105 Ruins on Innisfallen Is- land 106 O’Sullivan’s Cascade . . 108 The Gap of Dunloe . . 111 The Upper Lake . . -113 Serpent Lake, Gap of Dun- loe 1 14 The Old Weir Bridge . .116 The Colleen Bawn Caves . 117 The Eagles’ Nest Moun- tain 1 18 Killarney House . . .120 At Valentia 128 Moor and Mountain, Glen- car 131 The Ballaghbeama Pass . 13 1 Cahirciveen 133 The Atlantic Cable Coming Ashore 136 The Loo River near Ken- mare 14 1 At Parknasilla . . . • 143 Blackwater Bridge . . . 145 Falls in Sheen Valley, Ken- mare 1 5 1 The Great Tunnel on the Kenmare Road . . .152 At Glengariff . . • • 155 Cromwell’s Bridge, Glen- gariff 158 Otter Island, Glengariff . 160 Bantry House and the Bay 163 Harbour Entrance and Beacon, Baltimore . .166 | Kinsale T 7 1 i Inchigeela Lake . • • 1 77 I Gougane Barra . • • 1 77 | The Pass of Keimaneigh . 178 vi HOTELS AND TARIFFS. I N times which can scarcely yet be called remote, tourists were often deterred from visiting Ireland on account of the reputed indifferent hotel accommodation. It is only fair to call attention to the great improvement that has recently taken place in this respect, an improvement largely due to the enterprise and sagacity of the principal railway companies. First-class hotels, run on English lines and excellently managed, ,are to be found in all the chief tourist centres ; and it is only in the outlying districts that appre- hension need be felt. Killarney itself is amply provided for, while the chain of hotels bordering the Kenmare promon- tory are excellent. There is good accommodation also at Valentia Island, Glengariff, Bantry, Cork and Queenstown ; and, indeed, at most of the places described in this volume. In some of the smaller places so-called “ hotels ” would barely merit the name of inns in England. In Cork there are a number of good boarding-houses. The tariffs stated below have been supplied by the hotel proprietors themselves, but are liable to fluctuation according to season. In August and September it is always as well, when travelling from place to place, to write or wire for accommodation in advance. We have included Dublin in the list, as many tourists break their journey at that historic city, either going or returning. The Guide to Dublin in this series contains a large plan of the city, and will, we think, be worth its price, one shilling, to the visitor. (ABBREVIATIONS. — R., bedroom; A. breakfast; l., luncheon; d., dinner; t., tea; a., attendance;/?'., from; temp., temperance.) Bandon. French’s : Devonshire Arms : Temperance : Bantry. Railway : Vickery’s : Cahircivean. Railway : R., single, 3/- ; double, 4/6; b., 2/-; /., 2/-;j d., 3/6; G 1/-. vii noaramg terms : 0/0 per aay , 19/- Sat. to Mon. ; 42 /- per week. Fitzgerald’s : Cappoquin. Morrissey’s : R., single, 2/6 ; double, 4/-; b. t plain, 1/— ; /., 2/-; d., 2/6; t., plain, 1/— ; a., nil. Boarding terms : 6/— per day ; 15/- Sat. to Mon. Harrington’s : R., single, 2/- ; double, 3/-; b., meat 2/-, eggs 1/6; /., I 2/-: d., 2/6: t., 1/- : a., nil. HOTELS AND TARIFFS vm (ABBREVIATIONS.— bedroom ; 3., breakfast ; luncheon ; d., dinner ; £,'tea ; I a., attendance ; fr., from ; temp., temperance.) Boarding terms: 7/6 per day; 14/- Sat. to Mon. ; 45 /- per week. Moore’s : Caragh Lake. Great Southern : R. t single, fr. 4/- ; double, fr. 6/-; b., fr. 1/6; l., fr. 2/6 ; d., fr. 4/6 ; 1, fr. 6 d. Boarding terms : fr. 10/- per day ; fr. 63/— per week, according to season. Castletown Bearhaven. Commercial : Royal Naval : Clonakilty. O’ Donovan’s : R., single, 2/6 ; double, 3/-; b., 1/6 ; /., 1/6 ; d., 2/6 ; t., i/-- Boarding terms : 7/- per day. Imperial : Cork. Imperial : Tariff forwarded on appli- cation. Victoria : R., single, 4/- ; double, 7/6; b., meat or fish, 2/6 ; l. {table d'hote), 2/6; d., 3/6; t., 1/6; a., nil. Boarding terms : 63/- per week. Metro pole, King Street : Stevens’ : Windsor : R., single, 2/6 ; double, 4/-; b., 2/-; /., 2/-; d., 3/-; t., 1/- ; a., nil. Grosvenor : R., single, 2/6 ; double, 4/-; b., 2/-; 1, 2/-; d., 3/-; t., 1/- ; jz., nil. Turner’s : Moore’s : Leech’s : R., single, 2/- ; double, 3/- ; 6., 1/- to 2/6 ; /., 1/- to 1/6 ; d., 1/6 to 2/6 ; t.,i/-; a., nil. Boarding terms: 6/- per day; 30 /- to 44/- per week. Hibernian: i?., single, 2/-; double, 3/6; 6., fr. 1/— ; 1,1/9; d. ,2/6; 1, 1/-. Boarding terms: 7/- per day; 10/- Sat. to Mon.; 35/- per week. Railway : Moran’s : Courtmacsherry. Esplanade : East View (Boarding-house) : Board- ing terms : 5/- to 6/- per day ; 13/ — Sat. to Mon. ; 35/- to 40/- per week. Crosshaven. Crosshaven : Week-end (Sat. to Mon.) combined railway and hotel tickets, including fare from and to Cork, 18/6. Kennefick’s : Church Bay, Church Bay : Dunmanus Bay. Ahakista : Boarding terms : fr. 52/6 per week inclusive. Glenbeigh. Hotel, The : Boarding terms : 7/- per day ; 42/- per week. Glengariff. Eccles : R., single, fr. 4/-; double, fr. 5/-; b., fr. 1/6; 1, fr. 1/-; d. {table d'hote), 4/6 ; t., fr. 9 d. ; a., nil. Boarding terms : fr. 8/6 per day ; 1 7/- to 25/- Sat. to Mon. ; 50/- to 84/- per week. Roche’s : Belle Vue: R., single, 2/-; double, 3/-; b., plain 1/-, meat 2/-; /., 1/6; d., 2/6 and 3/6; t., 1/-; ., breakfast;/., luncheon; d., dinner; /., tea; a., attendance ; fr., from ; temp., temperance.) Parknasilla. Great Southern : R., single, fr. 4/- ; double, fr. 6/-; b., fr. 1/6; l., fr. 2/6 ; d., fr. 4/6 ; t., fr. 6 d. Boarding terms : fr. 10/- per day ; fr. 63/- per week, accord- ing to season. Queenstown. Queen’s: R., single, fr. 4/- ; double, fr. 6/6 ; b., fr. 1/6 to 3/- ; l., 2/6 ; d., 4/6 ; t., 1/-. Boarding terms: fr. 10/- per day; 21/- Sat. to Mon.; fr. 63/- per week. Kilmurray’s : Rob Roy : Imperial : R., single, fr. 2/6 ; double, fr. 4/-; b., 2/-; /., 2/-; d. ( table d'hote), 3/-; /., 1 / — ; a., nil. Boarding terms: 8/6 per day; 18/- Sat. to Mon.; 55/- per week. Schull. Commercial : Skibbereen. lien Valley : R., single, 3/- ; double, 6/-; 6., fr. 1/3; /., fr. 1/6; d., 3/-; /., 1/-; Boarding terms : fr. 6/- per day ; fr. 42/- per week. Eldon : I?., single, 2/- ; double, 3/- ; 6., fr. 1/— ; /., fr. 1 /— ; d., 2/6; *•, 1/-. Boarding terms: 6/- per day; 42/- per week. Sneem. Sheehan’s : R., single, 2/- ; double, 1 4/-; 6., fr. 1/— ; /., fr. 1/— ; d., I 2/6 ; t., 1/- ; a., nil. Boarding terms : 6/- per day ; 17/6 Sat. to Mon. ; 40/- per week. Valentia. Royal : R., single, fr. 3/- ; double, fr. 5/-; b., fr. 1/6; L, fr. 2/-; d., 3/6 ; 1/6 ; a., nil. Boarding terms : 8/6 to 10/6 per day; 17/- to 21/- Sat. to Mon. ; 52/6 to 60/- per week, according to season. Wat3rville. Butler Arms : R., single, 3/- ; double, 5/-; b., 2/-; /., 2/-; rf., 3/6; 1/- ; a., nil. Boarding terms : 9/- per day ; 52/6 per week. Bay View : R., single, 3/6 ; double, 5/-; b., 2/6; /., 2/-; rf., 3/-; /., 1/- ; a., nil. Boarding terms : 8/6 per day ; 1 7/- Sat. to Mon. ; 52/6 per week. Great Southern : R., single, fr. 4/- ; double, fr. 6/-; b., fr. 1/6; l., fr. 2/6 ; d., fr. 4/6 ; t., fr. 6d. Boarding terms : fr. 10/- per day; fr. 63/- per week, ac- cording to season. Youghal. Devonshire Arms : Green Park : R., single, 2/-; double, 4/-; b., 2/-; l., 2/-; <*., 3/-; t., 1/- ; a., 1/-. Boarding terms: 9/- per day; 16/- Sat. to Mon. ; 50/- per week. Atlantic : Imperial : Sunmount House, Strand (boarding- house) : Dublin. Burlington, St. Andrew’s Street : R., 3/6; b., 2/- or 2/6; /., fr. 1/6; d.,3/6; t., i/-or 2/-; a., 1/-. Boarding terms : 9/- per day, or 50/- per week. Central, South, Great St. George’s Street: 2/6; 6. or /., 2/- or 2/6 ; d. (table d'hote), 3/- ; t., 2/- ; a., 1/6. Boarding terms : 8/- per day, or 50/- per week. Clarence, Wellington Quay : R., 2/- to 2/6; 6., 1/- to 2/-; /., 1/- to 2/-; /., i/-to2/-; d.,2/- to 2/6; a. , nil. Edinburgh (temp.), Sackville Street : Gough’s Temperance, Exchequer Street : Granville, Upper Sackville Street : Gresham, Sackville Street: R., 3/-; b. , 2/6 ; /., 2/6 ; ^., 4/6 ; t., 1/6 ; a. , 1/6. Boarding terms : By arrangement. Grosvenor, Westland Row: R., 2/6; b. , 2/6; l, 2/-; d., 2/6; 1/-; «., 1/-. Boarding terms : 8/6 per day, or 50/- per week. HOTELS AND TARIFFS xi ' Abbreviations. — R.. bedroom: b., breakfast; L, luncheon; d., dinner; t ., tea a., attendance ; fr., Hammam, Sackville Street : Imperial, Sackville Street : Jury’s, College Green : Kilworth House, KildareStreet: Bj tid- ing terms : 10/ 6 per day, or from z\ guineas weekly. Maple’s, Kildare Street : R., 3/- to 4/6; b., 2/- to 2/6; l., 2/-; d., 3/6 or 5/-; t., 1/— ; a., 1/6. Boarding terms : 10/6 per day, or 63/- per week. Metropoie, Sackville Street : R., 3/ 6 ; b., 2/-; L, 2/6; d., 3/6; t., 1/6; a., 1/6. Boarding terms : 12/6 per day, or 84/- per week. Moran’s {temp.), Lower Gardiner Street ; R., 1/6 to 2/- ; b., 1/- to 1/6 ; d., 1/6 to 2/-. Nassau, Nassau and South Frederick Streets : R., 2/- and 2/6 ; 6. or /., 1/6 and 2/- ; d. { table d'hote), 3/ - ; L, 1/6 ; 1/-. Boarding terms : 49/- per week. North-Western, North Wall : Rippingales {temp.), Harcourt Street : R., 2/- to 2/6 ; b., 1/- to 1/9 ; l., fr. 1/6 ; d. y 2/6 ; t. 1/- to 1/9 ; 9^. from; temp., temperance.) | Boarding terms : 6/6 to 8/- per day, or 42/- to 49/- per week. Royal Hibernian, Dawson Stre t : R., 2/6 or 3/- ; 6., 2/- to 3/- ; 1/6 to 3/-; d., 3/- to 4/6; /., 1/6; «., 1/6. Boarding terms : 8/-, 9/-, or 10/- per day, or 50/- and 60/-- per week. Russell’s {temp.), St. Stephen’s Green : R., 2 /- to 2/6 ; 6., 1/6 to 2/-; /. or £., 1/6 ; Birectory. INDEX. Belfast •2, PAGE 3, 24 Bray ... , 3 > 11 Bundoran 3 > 4 Caragh Lake ... 9 Carrick ... ... 5 Connemara 10 Courtmacsherry 5 Dublin ... 5 > 6, 24 Dungloe... 5 Enniskillen 6 Falcaragh ... 6 Galway ... ... 7.8 Giant’s Gauseway ... 7 Glengarriff 7 Glenties ... 10 Greystones 8 Gweedore 8 Kenmare . . . 9 Kerry Fjords ... 9 RAILWAY Cork and Muskerry PAGE 18 Dublin and Blessington 1 7 Lancashire and York- shire 20 STEAMER PAGE British and Irish Steam Packet Company ... 14 City of Cork Steam- Packet Company ... 16 City of Dublin Steam Packet Company .. 15 PAGE Killary Bay 10 Leenane 10 Limerick . ... 10 Lough Swilly .. J2 Malahide 11 Milford 10 Narin . ... 10 Parknasilla 9 Portrush.., 12 Portsalon . ... 12 Rosslare 12 Rostrevor 4 Sligo 12 Valencia Island ... 13 Warrenpoint .. 4 Waterford 13 Waterville ... 9, 13 Wicklow . ... IT ROUTES. PAGE London and North Western .. 20, 21 Londonderry and Lough Swilly 17 West and South Clare 19 ROUTES. PAGE G. & J. Burns, Ltd. ... 13 Lancashire and York- shire and London and North Western Rail- way Companies ... 20, 21 Irish Guides, 1905-6 ] 1 32 GOLD AND PRIZE MEDALS AWARDED. 2 Belfast LONDON DEPOT— Findlater’s Corner, London Bridge, S.E. GLASGOW DEPOT- 53, Surrey Street Works: BELFAST & DUBLIN. BY SPECIAL APPOINTMENT Purveyors HIS MAJESTY to THE KING. CANTRELL & COCHRANE’S WORLD-FAMED GINGER JSClaE. “DRY IMPERIAL Belfast — Bray — Bundoran 3 KENSINGTON HOTEL. I^IRST-CLASS Family and Tourist Hotel. Newly Furnished. Cuisine JJ Excellent. Very Moderate Tariff. Most Centrally Situated in best position in City. Near G.N.R. Terminus. Opposite the .Assembly’s New Buildings. Two minutes’ from New City Hall. Visitors have every comfort and receive every attention. Unlicensed. Mrs. MacCLEARY, Manageress. N.B. — “Boots” meets Cross Channel Steamers on receipt of Postcard. THE “ GROSVENOR ” (M'CAUSLAND’S) 3First>class Commercial & jfamtly Ibotel, TEMPERANCE, WELLINGTON PLACE, BELFAST. F ITTED up with all Modern Conveniences, perfect Sanitary Arrangements, Electric Eight, and Heated throughout. Telephone Communication with each Room. The Hotel Porters attend all Trains and Steamers. ESPLANADE HOTEL. FACING SEA. Terms Moderate. Apply to Mrs. MILLS. BUNDORAN, CO. DONEGAL. SWEENY’S HOTEL. £JTHIS Hotel is beautifully situated, overlooking the Sea. The Views from the various windows have been acknowledged as unsurpassed. Good Cuisine. Perfect Sanitation. Lough Melvin Free Fishing for Salmon and Trout. For Terms apply to the Manager. 4 Bundoran Great Northern Railway Company (IRELAN D). BUNDORAN, CO. DONECAL. THE GREAT NORTHERN.— Commands fine views of Donegal Bay and the neighbouring Mountain Ranges. Lighted by Electricity throughout. Sea and Fresh Water Baths (Hot or Cold). Excellent Eighteen Hole Golf Ginks on Hotel Grounds, free to Visitors staying at the Hotel. Croquet. Tennis. Accommodation for Motors. Petrol supplied. Unsur- passed facilities for Lake, River, and Sea Fishing. Coaching. Sea Bathing. ROSTREYOR, CO. DOWN. THE GREAT NORTHERN.— Beautifully situated on Carlingford Lough. Luxuriously fitted and furnished, and lighted by Electricity throughout. Sea and Fresh Water Baths (Hot or Cold). WARRENPOINT, CO. DOWN. THE GREAT NORTHERN.— Situated at the head of Carlingford Lough, commanding uninterrupted views of the Mourne Mountains, the Omeath and Carlingford Hills and shore, and the full extent of the Lough. Hot and Cold Sea or Fresh Water Baths. — — Combined Rail and Hotel Tickets are issued at the Company’s principal Stations, from which also rooms may be telegraphed for, free of charge, but the issue of Combined tickets to Bundoran is suspended between the 15th July and the 15th September. For terms apply to the Managers at the Hotels. T. MORRISON, Secretary. Amiens Street Terminus, Dublin. May, 1905. Carrick— Courtmacsherry — Dublin — Dungloe 5 CARRICK, Co. DONEGAL. GLENCOLUMBKILLE HOTEL T OURISTS and ANGLERS will find the above a most comfortable Hotel, situated in the centre of the best cliff scenery in the British Isles, and within easy reach of the famous cliffs of Sleive League, Glen Head, and Muckross. Good Salmon, Sea Trout, and Brown Trout Fishing, free to guests at the Hotel, on two rivers and several lakes, all quite close to the Hotel. COURTMACSHERRY. ESPLANADE HOTEL 7THE above Hotel is now' open, and visitors will find w' it one of the most comfortable Seaside Hotels in the country. Eminent doctors have placed on record their high opinion of the Hotel, and its situation, which enables you, as you awake in the morning, to behold the sea rolling in within fifty yards of the building. Sequestered, and away from “the madding crowd,” in sylvan serenity and restfulness, it commands a charming view, and stands in beautifully-wooded grounds. (^hDUBLI 3V. otc EDINBURGH HOTEL (TEMPERANCE), 56, UPPER SACKVILLE STREET, 3fu*0t*das0 family anfc Commercial. STOCKROOMS. For Terms, apply Management. SWEENEY’S HOTEL ZDTTItTGULOIEh Is in the centre of the Rosses Fishery. Every accommodation for Motorists, Anglers, & Cyclists. TERMS M ODERATE. JOHN SWEENEY, Proprietor. 6 Dublin — Enniskillen — Falcaragh X Mr. Labouchere in Truth writes : — * “ The ONLY remedy is my trusty 4?Jy YANATAS.” It absolutely prevents Sea Sickness. / Of a ll Chemists, 2/9 and 4/6 a bottle (including a useful / little measure glass) ; or post paid 3d. extra, from / STARKIE, Grand Hotel Buildings, London, S.W. / Dublin : THOS. RITCHIE, 6, Foster Place. The ROYAL HOTEL, ENNISKILLEN first-class hotel has recently undergone extensive alterations. Having been very much enlarged and improved, it is now the most comfortable, largest, and best appointed hotel in Enniskillen. COMMERCIAL AND COFFEE ROOMS Ladies* Drawing Room. Private Sitting Rooms. SMOKING AND BILLIARD ROOMS. LARGE AIRY BEDROOMS. Hot, Cold, and Shower Haths. •BUS ATTENDS ALL TRAINS. POSTING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES. FALCARAGH, CO. DONEGAL. McCINLEYS HOTEL. Tourists apd Visitors to the Donegal Highlands will find every comfort and attention at the above Hotel. It is situated in the midst of Moun- tain Scenery, and there is safe Sea-bathing on a beautiful strand convenient to the village. Lake and river fishing. Hot and cold water baths. The Railway Station is two miles from the village, and cars attend trains on receipt of letter or wire. Terms Moderate. Miss McGINLEY, Proprietress. Glengarriff— Giant’s Causeway — Galway 7 c^lie^Ct-Aze^ir, ifp -^i- CO. CORK. *1^- THE MADEIRA OF IRELAND. THE •«- ECCL E’S HOTEL. 3fit*st=class jfamilE Ifootel. Cook & Sons’ and other Coupons accepted. -4* TERMS MODERATE. *4- GIANT’S CAUSEWAY. CAUSEWAY HOTEL. •f^IRST - CLASS Tourists’ Jj Hotel, overlooking the Atlantic, and close to the Causeway. The Giant’s Causeway Elec- tric Tramway runs direct from Portrush Railway Sta- tion to the Hotel Grounds. Golf Links adjacent, at Portrush. Post : “ Causeway Hotel, Giant’s Causeway.” T. DILLON & SONS, MAKERS OF THE CLADHAGII RING, Original Makers of Claddagh Brooches, Bangles, and Scarf Pins. •^ Y ^ HIS Mark D. & S. had the distinguished honour of making, by command, a Claddagh Ring for Her late Majesty Queen Victoria, on Her Majesty’s last visit to Ireland. History of Ring free on application. Connemara Marble Ornaments & Jewellery. You Know Them. T. DILLON & SONS, Irish Art Jewellers, GALWAY and ATHLONE. 8 Galway — Greystones — Gweedore Gh JL. JJTXTj&rsr. MAHON’S HOTEL, FORSTER STREET. W ITHIN one minute’s walk of Railway Station. Every want attended to. CHARGES MODERATE. A Select Bar attached. A Well Appointed Car attends the arrival and departure of all Trains and Steamers. There is an extensive Yard, with Coach Houses and Stabling in connection with the premises. JAMES MAHON, Proprietor. GRAND HOTEL, GREYSTONES. Three minutes' walk from station on the Dublin, Wicklow, and Wexford Railway. B EAUTIFULLY situated, and within easy access of the scenery of Co. Wicklow. Hot and Cold Fresh Water Baths. Excellent Sea Bathing. Suites of Rooms for Families. Sanitary arrangements and ventilation perfect. Vartry Water. Tennis grounds attached, and Golf Links in connection with the Hotel. Good Stabling. For terms, which are moderate, apply to the MANAGER. MOTOR GARAGE. PETROL STOCKED. Cook’s Hotel Coupons Accepted. The Windsor, The Ideal Magazine for the home. GWEEDORE HOTEL Co. DONEGAL. B EAUTIFULLY situated in the midst of magnificent mountain scenery, in the heart of the Donegal High- lands. Seven new bedrooms added. The Coaches in con- nection with the New Donegal Service leave the Hotel daily. Salmon , Sea 9 and Brown Trout Fishing . A. ROBERTSON, Manager. Post and Telegrabh Office in the HoUl. Kerry Fjords 9 COUNTY KERRY. SOUTHERN HOTELS Under the Management of the Great Southern & Western Railway, Ireland. HEALTH & PLEASURE RESORTS. Shooting, Fishing, Golf, Boating, Bathing , etc. Southern Hotel, Parknasilla. Situated on Grand Atlantic Coast Route. This Hotel is a comparatively recently built one. It stands on an inlet of the sea, 15 miles by road from Kenmare Rail- way Station. Its grounds of over 200 acres are well wooded and sheltered. It affords excellent Sea Bathing, Fishing, and Boating, and is an ideal holiday resort. Bishop’s House Hotel, Parknasilla (unlicensed). Open June to October. Sheltered position. Tariff 7/6 per day. Southern Hotel, Waterville. On the shore of Bough Currane, and within half a mile of the sea. Salmon and Trout Fishing commences here on 1st February. There is an excellent 9-hole Golf Links within 1 J- miles. Hotel Cars meet guests, if advised, at Cahirciveen Railway Station. Southern Hotel, Caragh Lake. Within half a mile of G. S. & W. Railway Station ; beauti- fully situated on the shore of Caragh Lake, and surrounded by unrivalled scenery. The Company has secured extensive and exclusive Fishing and Shooting rights, and good Links, for the use of its guests. Trout Hatchery in grounds. Southern Hotel, Kenmare. This House has been quite recently built, and will be found replete with every modern comfort and convenience, in- cluding Electric Light. It is just on the outskirts of the town, and commands a grand view of the Kenmare Sound and surrounding country. Coaches run daily during the Tourist Season from this Hotel to Parknasilla, Waterville, Cahirciveen, and also to Glengarriff and Killarney. There are excellent Golf Links adjoining the Hotel Grounds. Coupons issued to any of above Hotels at Dublin (Kingsbridge), Cork, and Waterford Stations. Full particulars of any of the above Hotels may be obtained on application to the Manager, Southern Hotel, Kenmare, Co- Kerry. 10 Killary Bay — Limerick — Milford — Narin BEAUTIFUL RESORT— CONNEMARA. LEENANE HOTEL, KILLARY BAY. i|JVERY Ccmfort provided in this First-class Hotel. Shooting. Salmon, Trout, and Sea Fishing. Boating. Good Sea Bathing. Bathing Boxes. Sailing Boats. Excursions, Daily Arranged, through the midst of the Most Entrancing Scenery. R. H. McKEOWN, Proprietor. The GLENTWORTH Is the leading Hotel in Limerick, and is patronised by the nobility and gentry visiting the City. Its chief characteristics are Cleanliness, Perfect Sanitation, and Moderate Terms. ’Buses and Staff meet all Trains and Steamers. KENNA BROS., Proprietors. FREE SALMON & TROUT FISHING lt^IGHTEEN miles of the River Lannan and Lough Fern. Excellent Salmon and Trout Fishing quite free. River and Lake well stocked with fish from first April freshes. Nine trout lakes, including famous Lough Keel, in immediate vicinity of Hotel. First-class Hotel. Excellent cuisine. Splendidly situated in heart of Donegal Highlands. Moderate Tariff. For further particulars apply to Proprietor, M’DEYITT’S HOTEL, Milford, Co. Donegal. THE PORTNOO HOTEL, NAKIN, CO. DONEGAL. 7THE above Tourists’ Hotel is now open. Charming- situation overlooking- the vL' Atlantic Ocean, seven miles from Glenties, five from Ardara, and four from the Coach Line at Mause Bridge, and within easy distance of, all places of interest. Splendid. Lake and Sea Fishing, Boating, and very safe Bathing. The combined bracing air of mountain and sea makes the place a most health restoring resort. Dining Rooms, Coffee Room, Smoking Room, Drawing Room (Piano), and Private Sitting Room. Perfect and separate Sanitary accommodation for Ladies and Gentlemen. Hot and Cold Baths. Moderate Tariff. 18-Hole Golf Links (laid out by Hammill, Professional Royal Golf Links, Portrush,) within a mile of the Hotel. For terms apply to the Manager, or to C. CANNON, Proprietor. Combined Railway Tickets, including Hotel and Car Fare from Glenties and back, issued by the Donegal Railway Co., at Strabane and Derry, from Friday till Monday, Saturday till Monday, and for seven days. Cars attend all trains for Visitors. Under the same Management, THE GLENTIES TEMPERANCE HOTEL. M alahide ii The Bethell Hotels Company, Ltd., Ireland GRAND HOTEL, MALAHIDE Beautifully situated on the Coast, 15 minutes from Dublin. GOLFING CENTRE, BOATINC & BATHING Terms from 10/6 per day. INTERNATIONAL HOTEL, BRAY CO. WICKLOW, Splendid situation, 30 minutes by rail from Dublin, REDECORATED AND REFURNISHED, Excellent Cuisine and Wines. Terms from 10/6 per day. BRAY HEAD HOTEL, BRAY Situated under Bray Head, and commanding magnificent views of Dublin Bay. Remodelled, Redecorated, & Refurnished. SANITARY ARRANGEMENTS NEW. Terms from 10/6 per day. ♦ TARIFF AND FURTHER PARTICULARS SENT ON APPLICATION. 12 Portrush — Portsalon — Rosslare — Sligo PORTRUS H. EGLINTON HOTEL S PLENDID Situation. Facing Sea and Midland Rail- way Station. Electric Trams start from the door for the Giant’s Causeway. HS/fOIDZEZE^^T'IE TEieiMIS- Porter Meets all Tx*aiixs. H. G. BOWER Manager. (Late Northern Counties Hotel.) C O. DONEG-A L. PORTSALON HOTEL (ON LOUGH SWILLY.) T HIS Excellent Hotel, which affords first-class accommodation, and every comfort to Families, Golfers, and other Tourists, is magnifi- cently situated, with southern aspect, and commands sea and mountain views of matchless beauty. The Golf Links (18 Holes) are the most sporting and picturesque in the country. Good Lake and Sea Fishing, Boating, Bathing, Tennis, Croquet, Billiards, Cycle Stores, Dark Boom for Photo- graphy, & c. Route via Londonderry and Rathmullen, thence by Coach daily on arrival of midday steamer. For particulars apply MANAGER. Telegrams — “Hotfl, Portsalon.” ROSSLARE HOTEL T HIS New Hotel, three storeys high, which is built on the Beautiful Strand of Rosslare, is unrivalled for its Position, Comfort, Cuisine, Wines, and Moderate Charges ; and, having a Promenade Roof, commands a fine view of Bay and Rosslare Harbour and surrounding districts. Hot and Cold Sea and Fresh Water Baths. Post and Telegraph Office adjoins this Hotel. W. J. KELLY, Proprietor. V I c t o ria 3 ho tel. Patronised by His Excellency the Lord Lieutenant (Earl Dudley), the Nobility and Gentry. 'TOURISTS, Anglers, and Families will find every convenience, com- 1 bined with cleanliness and moderate charges. PRIVATE ROOMS. LADIES’ SITTING ROOMS. BATHS— Hot, Cold, and Shower. BILLIARDS. GOLF. Gentlemen staying at this Hotel have the privilege of Free Fishing for Salmon and Trout in Loch Gill. Boats for hire. Posting in all its Branches. Omnibus attends all trains. Cook’s Coupons accepted. J. A. HALL, Proprietor. Waterford — Waterville — Steamer Routes 13 WATERFORD K&j IMPERIAL HOTEL. F IRST-CLASS HOTEL, patronised by the Aristocracy, Tourists, and Commercial Gentlemen. Recently en- larged, refurnished, and decorated. Sanitation certified. Tariff moderate. Table d’Hote daily at 7.30. Excellent Cuisine. Hotel ’Buses meet all trains and steamers. W. A. MURRAY, Proprietor. Telephone No. 22 . Telegrams — “ Imperial , Waterford .” WATERVILLE, CO. KERRY. BAY VIEW HOTEL. 'TT'HIS HOTEL is beautifully situated close to the Sea, where first-class Bathing and Boating can be had in front of the Hotel. Salmon and Sea Trout Fishing Free on two rivers and three lakes, also 60,000 acres of the best winter shooting in Ireland, also free to visitors. Lawn Tennis, Billiards. A nine-hole Golf Course has recently been formed, and is now considered equal to any in Ireland. Scenery magnificent — lake, sea, and mountain. Tourist Coaches arrive daily from Railway Station and to and from Parknasilla. Charges very moderate. — — <*■ VALENCIA, CO. KERRY. ROYAL HOTEL. 7 THIS HOTEL has been patronised by His Majesty the King, their w Royal Highnesses the Prince and Princess of Wales, the Duke and Duchess of Connaught, and their Excellencies Lord and Lady Cadogan. This Hotel is considered one of the most comfortable and best-appointed Hotels in Ireland. Hot and Cold Sea Water Baths. Sea Fishing and Bathing in front of the Hotel. The Scenery on Valencia is considered the finest in Ireland. SCOTLAND AND IRELAND. Royal Hail line. Q UICKEST, Cheapest and Best Route between all parts of Scotland and the North of Ireland. Mail Service twice every evening (Sundays excepted) to and from all parts of Ireland via Belfast ; and all parts of Scotland, via Glasgow, via Greenock, and vid Ardrossan. DAYLIGHT SERVICE DURING SUMMER SEASON. Glasgow to Belfast and back same day, by “ Adder ” from Ardrossan. Also Steamers between Glasgow and Manchester, three times weekly, Glasgow and Liverpool (calling at Greenock). From three to four times Weekly each way. Cheap Excursion Fares. See Newspaper Advertisements. Glasgow and Londonderry (calling at Greenock). Twice weekly. For full details see Advts. and Sailing Bills , or apply to 6. & J. Burns, Ld., Glasgow, Belfast, Londonderry, Manchester & Liverpool Steamer Routes 14 GRAND HOLIDAY SEA TRIPS (Magnificent Coast Scenery) BETWEEN LONDON & DUBLIN AND THE SOUTH OP ENGLAND, The best route for Cornwall, Devon, Wilts, Sussex, Kent, Essex, Hants, and Surrey, and for the Scilly Islands, the Isle of Wight, the Channel Islands, and France. THE LARGE FIRST-CLASS STEAMERS OF THE British & Irish Steam Packet Company, Ltd,, Leave London and Dublin twice a week, calling both ways at Portsmouth, Southampton, Plymouth, and Falmouth. l From, London — Sundays and Wednesdays. OuilUlg Ddjo j From Dublin— Wednesdays and Saturdays. FLEET “ Lady Roberts ” 1,462 tons ! “ Lady Wolseley ” 1,424 tons “ Lady Hudson-Kinahan ” 1,372 ,, | “ Lady Martin ” 1,355 ,, “ Lady Olive ” 1,096 tons These vessels have superior accommodation for First and Second Cabin and Steerage Passengers, are fitted with Electric Light, have Deck State Rooms, Smoke Rooms, &c., and carry Stewards and 3 tewardesses. Circular Tours from LONDON to Killarney, Cork and South of Ireland, Isle of Man, Glasgow. &c., from SOUTH OF ENGLAND Ports to Isle of Man. Connemara, and West of Ireland (June to September) and from DUBLIN to Channel Islands and France, via Southampton. Scilly Islands. — Passengers for these charming Islands land at Falmouth and travel via Penzance. London, Dublin, and Isle of Man Tours, 42 /- Return 1 st Class to Dublin by this Company s Steamers, thence by Isle of Man S.P. Company s Steamers, or per S.S. “YARROW.’ Splendid Summer Service from Dublin. From Portsmouth & Southamp- ton, £ 2 ; Plymouth, £1 15 s. ; Falmouth, £1 12 s. 6d. SPECIAL CHEAP EXCURSION TICKETS, First and Second Cabin, available for 16 days, are issued between any two of the following Ports— Dublin, Falmouth, Plymouth, Southampton, Portsmouth, at a Single Fare and a Quarter. Ordinary Return Tickets are available for three months. 63 Private Cabins can be reserved on payment of extra charge on early ^ application being made for same. 2 Company’s Illustrated Handbook sent post free from any of the ^ Company’s Offices, or obtainable on board the Steamers. AGENTS : — 30, Eden Quay, Dublin, Carolin & Egan. London : James Hartley & Co., 19, Leadenhall Street, E.C. ; North Quay, Eastern Basin, London Docks, E. Plymouth : R. Clark & Son, Millbay Pier ; H. J. Waring & Co., Millbay Pier. Southampton : Le Feuvre & Son, 8, Gloucester Square. Falmouth: W. & E. C. Came, Market Street. Portsmouth: J. M. Harris, 10, Broad Street. Tickets are also issued by 3Iessrs. THOS. COOK & SON, Dublin and London , and Rranches. Chief Offices : — 3, North Wall, Dublin. A. W. Egan, Secretary. Telegraphic Address : — “AWE, DUBLIN.” ■Dublin Temporary Rerth, 64, Sir John Rogerson’s Quay. Steamer Routes 15 CITY OF DUBLIN STEAM PACKET CO. DUBLIN AND LONDON. ROYAL MAIL NEW RAPID SERVICE. Via Kirgstown & Holyhead. Fastest & Best Passenger Route. The Magnificent Twin Screw Steamers “Ulster,” “Leinster,” “Munster,’ or “Connaught,” 3.000 Tons, 9,000 H.P., Speed 24 Knots, Sail Twice each way Daily with Mails and Passengers. Sea Passage 2 Hours 45 Minutes. THROUGH COMMUNICATION BETWEEN KINGSTOWN AND THE INTERIOR OF IRELAND. Through Carriages are run to and from Kingstown Pier in connection with the Night Mail Packets and the Great Northern, the Great Southern and Western, and the Mid- land Great Western Railway Companies’ Mail Trains, so that Passengers can avoid all the expense and inconvenience of a journey through the streets of Dublin. Through Carriages are also run from Kingstown Pier to Amiens Street, &c., in con- nection with the Day Mail Packet. Beductioxi of Fa,x*es. Third Class Fares by Mail Trains.— Passengers by D. W. & W., Gt. N. (I.), Gt. S. & W., and M. G. W. Trains can now be booked 1st, 2nd, and 3rd class Rail and class Steamer, or 2nd class or 3rd class Rail and 2nd class Steamer. RETURN TICKETS are available for TWO MONTHS. SEA FARES BETWEEN KINGSTOWN AND HOLYHEAD. ( Tickets to be obtained on Board the Mail Packet). First Class, Single, 10s. ; Return, 15s. | Second Class, Single, 7s. ; Return, 10s. 6d. Passengers sleeping at Kingstown must be on board before 12.30 a. in. Passengers may remain on board the Packet at Kingstown after arrival in the morning until 8 a.m., and on' Sundays until 9 a.m. Note.— Holders of Return halves of Tickets (Tourist or Ordinary) for London and North Western Company’s North Wall Route, available in the Saloon of the Express Steamers, can travel in the First Class Saloon of the Kingstown and Holyhead Mail' Packets by payment of the difference of fares ; and in the Second Cabin of the Mail Packets without any extra charge. These Tickets are available between Kingstown and Westland Row Stations. Beds provided on board the Mail Packets for Passengers if required, charge 2s. each. Baths, is. each. ♦ DUBLIN & LIVERPOOL. The Company’s Fast and Powerful Steamers, “Kilkenny,” “Cork,” “Kerry,’' “ Carlow, ” “Wicklow,” “Louth,” etc., sail Twice Daily each way. Sea Passage 8 Hours. DUBLIN (North Wall) to LIVERPOOL, Week-days (Saturdays excepted) at 12 noon and 8 p.m. ; Saturdays at 2 p.m. and 8 p.m. LIVERPOOL (Nelson Dock or Prince’s Landing Stage) to DUBLIN, Twice Daily. For times, &c., see Sailing Lists. FARES BETWEEN DUBLIN AND LIVERPOOL. Cabin, Single, 13s. 6d. ; Return (available for Two Months), 21s. Deck, Single, 4 s.; Return (available for Two Months), 6s. 6d. On every FRIDAY and SATURDAY, CABIN EXCURSION TICKETS are issued at Single Fares for the Double Journey, available for Return on an)' week-day within Sixteen Days from date of issue. Deck, 5 s. A Daily Omnibus Service is run in connection with the Company’s Steamers and Liverpool Stations, conveying Through-booked Passengers and their Luggage, free of charge. DUBLIN & BELFAST, with Passengers & Goods, Thrice Weekly, in each direction. ( For particulars see Sailing Bills.) PASSENGERS’ FARES :— Cabin Fares, 6s. ; Return, 10s. ; Deck, 3s. ; Return, 5s. (available for Two Mpnths). Head Offic:-15, EDEN QUAY, DUBLIN. i6 Steamer Routes Visit CORK and the South-West of Ireland Inuigorating Holiday Trips by Steamer, Coach, and Rail. THE CITY OF CORK STEAM PACKET COMPANY ARE ISSUING AT London, Liverpool, Bristol, Milford, Southampton, and Plymouth, CHEAP CIRCULAR TICKETS, Which, in addition to a pleasant Sea Trip, afford Tourists an opportunity of visiting the LAKES OF KIX-LAKKTEY, BAXTRY BA Y, GLENGARKIFF, «Sc c. Through Fares from London and Great Western Stations by the Popular new Milford and Cork DIRECT ROUTE. Write for Programme of specially arranged Tours, embracing the finest Mountain, Lake, and Coast Scenery in the British Isles, and full particulars of sailings. The City of Cork Steam Packet Company, Limited, Cork. Railway Routes i7 DUBLIN AND BLESSINGTON STEAM TRAMWAY CO. T HIS STEAM TRAMWAY runs through the most picturesque scenery in the counties of Dublin and Wicklow, and the extension of the line to the celebrated Falls of the Liffey, at Poulaphouca, brings visitors to one of the most delightful tourist resorts in Ireland, and which is within easy reach of Dublin. During the Summer Season Through Tickets from the City to Poulaphouca (at 3 /- first class and 2 /- third class), are issued at Messrs. Cook’s Offices, 147, Grafton Street, and on the Cars of the Rathmines line of the Dublin United Tramways Company, starting at Nelson’s Pillar ; full particulars as to which, as well as information as to the hours of the trains, fares, pedestrian and cycling tours in the neighbourhood of the line, can be obtained from the Company’s Guide, which is to be had at the D.U.T. Co.’s Offices, 9, Upper Sackville Street ; 31, Lower Sackville Street ; 62, Dawson Street; and 117, Grafton Street, or at the Company’s Offices, Terenure. For description of the line, etc., see pages 105-114 of Ward, Lock & Co.’s Guide to Dublin and the Wicklow Tours. H. O. TISDALL, Secretary. LONDONDERRY AND LOUGH 8WILLY RAILWAY. — — DIRECT ROUTE TO HIGHLANDS OF DONEGAL, Including the Tourist Resorts of Buncrana & Portsalon, on Lough Swilly, Ballyliffen, Culdaff, Malin, Rosapenna (Carrigart), Dunfanaghy for Horn Head, Falearagh, Gweedore, Dungloe, and Burtonport. Excellent Hotels, Salt Water & Medicinal Baths . GOLF LINKS. Good Fishing and Shooting. Magnificent Scenery. Trains from Derry to Fahan, Buncrana, Carndonagh, Letterkenny, and Burtonport in connection with Mail Trains from Larne, Belfast, and Dublin. Coach to and from Portsalon and Rathmullan daily. Through Bookings from L. & N.W. and Midland Railway Stations, also at London Office, 2, Charing Cross, London ; T. Cook & Son ; M’Crea & M’Farlands, Royal Avenue, Belfast; and G.N. and B. & N.C. Railways. R. S. MOORE, Traffic Manager. Irish Series. 190&-6 % ] 2 i8 Railway Routes CORK AND MUSKERRY LIGHT RAILWAY. Picturesque and Direct Route to the Famous Blarney Castle. CORK TO BLARNEY IN THIRTY-FIVE MINUTES. ( Tourist Tickets are issued by Messrs. Thos . Cook and Sons.) k£>4^>*. The Terminus at Blarney is situated in the Castle Grounds, and the Trains run up to the Castle Gate. On Week Days.- Trains leave Western Road Terminus, Cork, at 8.15 to 10 a.m., 12.5, 2.40, 4.15, and 6.15 p m. Returning from Blarney at 9.5 and 11 a.m., 1.15, 3.25, 5.0, and 7.0 p m. Return Fares : First Class, 1/2 ; Third Class, lOd. On Sundays, Reduced Fares. — Trains run from 10 a.m. till 8 p.m. (see Time Tables). Visitors to Blarney Castle and Grounds can obtain Admission Tickets at Blarney Station, on production of this Company’s Ticket or Coupon, at 3 d. each. Holders of other Tickets charged 6d. The Railway passes through the most beautiful and charming country in the South of Ireland, and runs close to Dripsey Castle and Shandy Hall. There is also a station at St. Ann’s Hill, two minutes’ walk from the celebrated Hydropathic Establishment. For further information, apply at Wilkie’s Tourist Office, King Street, Cork ; Cook’s Tourist Office, Patrick Street, Cork ; or to T. O’CONNOR, Western Road Terminus, Cork. General Manager. . . NOYELS BY . . JOSEPH HOCKING In Uniform Bindings. Crown 8 vo., cloth gilt, 3 s. 6 d. Just Ready. ROG-XSR TRJE! WIKTIOW. Illustrations by GUNNING KING. ALREADY PUBLISHED The Coming of the King Esau Greater Love Lest We Forget The Purple Robe The Scarlet Woman The Birthright Mistress Nancy Molesworth Fields of Fair Renown And shall Trelawney Die? All Men are Liars Ishmael Pengelly: An Outcast The Story of Andrew Fairfax Jabez Easterbrook The Weapons of Mystery Zillah The Monk of Mar-Saba LONDON: WARD, LOCK & CO., LIMITED. Railway Routes 19 VISIT KILKEE, SPANISH POINT, LAHINGH, LISDOONVARNA AND THE Unrivalled Cliff and Coast Scenery OF West CLiARE. ^ THE DIRECT ROUTE TO THESE Famous Health and Pleasure Resorts IS BY THE WEST & SOUTH GLARE RAILWAYS From ENNIS to ENNISTYMON (for Lisdoonvarna) LAHINCH (for the Golf Greens and the Cliffs of Moher) MILLTOWN-MALBAY (for Spanish Point), and HllaHEE. THROUGH TOURIST TICKETS are issued at the principal Railway Stations in Ireland and England ; also at the Offices of Thos. Cook & Son, and Dean & Dawson ; and at the Irish Railway Companies’ Tourist Office, 2, Charing Cross, London, S.W. For information as to Fares, Routes, Hotels, Golfing, Fishing, &c., apply to — ' PATRICK SULLIVAN, Manager. West Clare Railway , Ennis, 1905, 20 Kailway Routes Lancashire and Yorkshire and London and North-Western Railways. TO AND FROM NORTH of IRELAND VIA FLEETWOOD, BELFAST and LONDONDERRY. The Lancashire and Yorkshire and London and North-Western Companies' Twin Screw Steamers, * Duke of Connaught ‘Duke of Cornwall ‘ Duke of Tancasterf * Duke of York * Duke of Clarence Sail daily (Sundays excepted) between FLEETWOOD and BELFAST, and on Wednesdays and Saturdays from FLEETWOOD to LONDON- DERRY, and on Tuesdays and Fridays from LONDONDERRY to FLEETWOOD. EXPRESS TRAINS are run in connection with the boats between Manchester, Liverpool, Bolton, Bradford, Leeds, Sheffield, Harro- gate, York, Newcastle, Birmingham, London, and other important places, and Fleetwood. The Boat Train from Fleetwood to Manchester, in connection with the Steamers from Belfast and Londonderry, is a Vestibule Breakfast Car train. These Steamers are built upon the most approved principles. The Saloons and State Rooms are amidships. The Steamers are fitted with Electric Light, Baths, and all modern conveniences for the comfort of the Passengers. The Station at Fleetwood is situated on the Pier, and the Trains run direct to and from the Steamers, therefore No expense is incurred in transferring Luggage between Train and Steamer. Fleetwood is unrivalled as a Sttam-packet Station for the North of Ireland, and the unexampled regularity with which the Belfast line of steamers have made the passage between the two ports for more than forty years is probably without a parallel in steamboat service, and has made this route the most popular, as it is certainly the most expeditious and desirable, for passengers^ goods, and merchandise, between the great centres of commerce in England and the North and North-West cf Ireland. Passengers, Goods, and Live Stock forwarded to and from all parts ot England. Through Rates with most places in England. Applications for State Rooms or Berths should be addressed as under: — From Fleetwood to Belfast and Londonderry— To Captain J. E. Jackson, Fleetwood. Telegraphic Address, “Captain Jackson, Fleetwood.” From Belfast to Fleetwood— To Mr. A. T. Cotton, 20, Donegall Quay. Telegraphic Address, “ Marine, Belfast.” To Mr. J. A. Ferris, L. & Y. Railway, 7, Donegall Place, or to Mr. R. Woodney, L. & N. W. Railway, 26, Royal Avenue, Belfast. From Londonderry to Fleetwood— To Messrs. Pinkerton & Co., Joint Agents, Londonderry; C. T. Wise, L. & Y. Railway, Waterloo Place; or to H. Henderson, L. & N. W. Railway, Foyle Street, Londonderry. For further information apply to the above, and also to S. Whitehall, Joint Superintendent ; W. Smith, Goods Department, Fleetwood ; of tp any L. & Y. or L. & N. W. Station. Railway Routes 21 London and North-Western Railway. ENGLAND & IRELAND. — — L. & N. W. Mail and Express Routes. Yia HOLYHEAD and GREENORE for Dundalk, Rostrevor, Warrenpoint, Newry, Newcastle, Londonderry, Donegal, Belfast, Lough Erne, Portrush, Giant’s Causeway. A Breakfast Car is attached to the Morning Boat Train for Belfast, which leaves Greenore after arrival of the Express Steamer in connection with the 7.30 p.m. Fast Dining Car Train from Euston (Saturdays excepted). A Dining Car is run by the 6.45 p.m. Train from Belfast to Greenore, which connects with the Express Boat and Train Service ( via Holyhead) to London and all parts of England. Yia HOLYHEAD & NORTH WALL (Dublin) or KINGSTOWN for Killarney Lakes, Cork, Connemara, Galway, Sligo, River Shannon, Lough Derg, Lough Ree. Yia FLEETWOOD or LIYERPOOL for Belfast Yia CARLISLE, STRANRAER, and LARNE for Belfast. The principal Hotels in Ireland are very comfortable, and the tariffs moderate Tourists and others will find Ireland an ideal country for Holidays and Sport, combining many attractions which are sought at greater distances. GREENORE (CARLINGFORD LOUGH, IRELAND). Excellent accommodate- is provided at the London and North Western Railway Company’s Hotel at Greenore, the improvement and enlarge- ment of which have been completed. Conveniently arranged Bungalows have also been erected in a pleasant situation facing Carlingford Lough. Golf Links (18-hole Course) and Club House have also been provided by the Company, and of these Residents in the Hotel have free use. Full pension from 70s. per week. Passengers with Through Tickets between England and the North of Ireland are allowed to break the journey at Greenore. FREDERICK HARRISON, Puston Station , 1905 , General Manager , 22 Guide Book Advertiser MRS. BEETON’S Famous Cookery Books Strongly bound in Half-roan , 7s. 6d. ; Half-morocco or Half-calf, 12s , 6d,; Tree-calf, 18s. Mrs. Beeton’s Book of Household Management. About 1,700 pages, with Thousands of Recipes and Instructions, Hundreds of Engravings, and New Coloured Cookery Plates. With Quantities, Time, Cost, and Seasons, Directions for Carving and Trussing, Management of Children, Economy of the Kitchen, Duties of Servants, the Doctor, Legal Memoranda, and Bills of Fare and Menus of all kinds and for all Seasons. Large Crown 8vo, strongly bound , Half-roan, 5s. Mrs. Beeton’s Family Cookery and Housekeeping Book. Embracing a Complete Dictionary of Cookery, and a Comprehensive and Practical Guide to Domestic Management. Comprising about 800 pages, 550 En- gravings, and Eight Coloured Cookery Plates. Large Crown 8vo , Cloth gilt , 3s. 6d. Mrs. Beeton’s Every-Day Cookery and Housekeeping Book. New Coloured Plates and 600 Engravings. Crown 8vo , Cloth gilt, 2s. 6d. Mrs. Beeton’s All About Cookery. Containing 2,000 Recipes, 450 Pages, Coloured Plates, and 500 Illustrations. Crown 8vo, Cloth, Is. Mrs. Beeton’s Cookery Book and Household Guide. Entirely New and Enlarged Edition, greatly improved ; containing upwards of 1,000 Recipes, nearly 200 Fine Illustrations and Five Co 1 ""red Plates, beautifully produced, far ahead of anything of the kind hitherto attempted. Marketing, Vegetarian Cookery, Menus, Table Arrangement, Trus- sing, Carving, &c., &c., with Quantities, Time, Cost, and Seasons. New Penny Cookery Book. Crown 8vo, Coloured Wrapper, 96 pages, containing about 200 Economical Recipes, and Useful Instructions for the Practical Housekeeper ; with about 60 Illustrations in the text. LONDON : WARD , LOCK & CO., LTD . Guide Book Advertiser *3 E. P. Oppenheim’s POPULAR NOVELS. + _ THE MASTER MUMMER. 6s. Illustrations by F. H. Townsend. THE BETRAYAL . 6s. Illustrations by John Cameron. ANN A y THE ADVENTURESS. 6s. Illustrations by F. H. Townsend. THE YELLOW CRAYON. 6s. Illustrations by Oscar Wilson. A PRINCE OF SINNERS. 6s. Illustrations by Oscar Wilson. THE TRAITORS. 6s. Illustrations by Oscar Wilson. THE GREA T A WA KEN IN G. 6 s. Illustrations by F. H. Townsend. THE SURVIVOR. 6s. Illustrations by Stanley L. Wood. A MILLIONAIRE OF YESTERDAY. 6s. Illustrations by Stanley L. Wood. THE MYSTERY OF MR. BERNARD BROWN. 3s. 6d. Illustrated THE WORLD 9 S GREAT SNARE. 3s. 6d. Illustrations by J. Ambrose Walton. A DAUGHTER OF THE MARION IS. 3s. 6d. Illustrations by Adolf Thiede. A MONK OF CRUTA. 3s. 6d. Illustrations by Warne Browne. THE MAN AND HIS KINGDOM. 3s. 6d. illustrations by Stanley L. Wood. MYSTERIOUS MR. SABIN. 3s. 6d. Illustrations by J. Ambrose Walton. AS A MAN LIVES. 3s. 6d. Illustrations by Stanley L. Wood. London: WARD, LOCK & CO., LTD. 24 Belfast — Dublin AERATED WATERS WORKS— Gt. Victoria St., BELFAST. TODD, BURNS & CO., LIMITED, MARY STREET, DUBLIN. ®Ij£ Itcabimj Drapers AND | JFnrnisIjm in lalanfc. GOODS OF IRISH MANUFACTURE OUR SPECIALITY. GUIDE TO KILLARNEY AND THE SOUTH-WEST OF IRELAND. INTRODUCTION. “ The south-western part of Kerry is well-known as the most beau- tiful tract in the British Isles. The mountains, the glens, the capes stretching far into the Atlantic, the crags on which the eagles build, the rivulets brawling down the rocky passes, the lakes overhung by groves in which the wild deer find coverts, attract every summer crowds of wanderers, sated with the business and the pleasures of great cities.” — Lord Macaulay. HK world-famed Lakes of Killarney are situated in the county of Kerry — the fourth in size and the most romantic in character of Irish counties, enjoying the distinc- tion of including within its borders the most westerly point of land in the European continent, and the loftiest of the Irish mountains, Carran Tual, the peak of which is 3,414 feet above sea-level. The district has long been admitted to be “ in point of scenery the finest portion of the British Isles.” * In no other part of these Islands is there to be found in such luxuri- ance all those features of landscape that appeal by their beauty to the gazer’s heart, elevate by their grandeur the mind of the beholder, or, by their stern magnificence, impress the imagination with the images of awe and majesty. Scenes of soft loveliness, rich with the decoration of an almost tropi- cal vegetation, intermingle on every hand in graceful contrast with views of wild Alpine splendour, each reacting on the other for the production of a perfect whole. So that, be the mood of the traveller what it may, he here finds fully the satisfaction of the eye, and yields with a sense of grateful ease to the characteristic charm of this most lovely spot. What it is that constitutes the charm of Killarney it would * This was the expression used by the poet Wordsworth — cer- tainly no mean judge of lake scenery — whose prejudices, if he had any, might naturally be in favour of the lakes of Cumberland and Westmorland. Killarney Guide. a KILLARNEY be hard to tell. Writers without number have laboured to describe the feelings with which these scenes have inspired them, but no description can convey to the reader the name- less influences of sky and air which combine with the material beauties of mountain, wood, and water to confer upon this favoured region its especial claim to the title of “ the Eden of the west.” Killarney, to be conceived of, must be seen, and happy indeed is he who sees it in its fairer moods, the veritable “ reflex of heaven.” “ The principal charm of Killarney,” says an eloquent and distinguished writer, “consists in its magical variety. Like the beauty of Nourmahal, it is not by a monotonous perfec- tion that it pleases, but by an ever-animated, ever-changing fascination which every mist that sleeps on its waters, every ray that glances on its mountain tops, every breath that ruffles its bosom, every season that clothes, or strips, or diversifies its mountain woods, exhibits under a new aspect of loveliness, imbued afresh with a thousand prismatic colours. Every step you take you imagine that, like the illusive landscape that mocked whilst it enchanted the vision of the Red Cross Knight, all the objects around you are undergoing a visible metamorphosis. Not a rock, not a wave, not a tree, from the Druidical oak to the diamond-hung arbutus, that does not alter its aspect with the position you take, and appear as if spangled anew with a fresh coat of sparkling tints and hues ; whilst the silvery mists that rise like guardian spirits from the depths of the lakes, the fairy voices that respond at every call, the ever-moving lights and shadows which are continually revealing or shrouding some prominent feature of the landscape, never suffer the intensity of your interest to subside. Nor is there anything incon- gruous in the disposition of the surrounding objects. The high- lands and the valleys, the animated and the solitary regions, the still grotto ?s and the surrounding cataracts, the wildness and the bloom, the lofty and the gentle features of the scene, blend harmoniously together. Its solemnity is always re- lieved by its brilliancy, and its brilliancy ever chastened by the continual presence of its awful mountains. Add to this that every rock has its legend, every island its tale of marvel.” The first impression that strikes the visitor to Killarney is the extraordinary wealth of trees and rare flowering plants that cover the district, in some places growing apparently out of the solid rock ; the noble shapes and great height of the b c THE MEETING OF THE WATERS, KILLARNEY. KILLARNEY mountains, and the gorgeous colouring in which Nature is arrayed. Here the dark rich green of the arbutus, there the pearly grey of the rocks, or the deep purple of the mountains, forms a background upon which are relieved with inexpres- sibly brilliant effect the lighter hues of forest trees and shrubs. “ Such varied and vigorous vegetation,” says Mr. Alfred Austin, the Poet Laureate, “ I have seen no otherwhere ; and when one has said that, one has gone far towards award- ing the prize for natural beauty. But vegetation, at once robust and graceful, is but the fringe and decoration of that enchanting district. The tender grace of wood and water is set in a framework of hills — now stern, now ineffably gentle ; now dimpling with smiles, now frowning and rugged with impending storm ; now muffled and mysterious with mist, only to gaze out on you again with clear and candid sunshine. But the first, the final, the deepest and most enduring im- pression of Killarney is that of beauty unspeakably tender, which puts on at times a garb of grandeur and a look of awe, only in order to heighten by passing contrast the sense of soft insinuating loveliness.” The finest general view of the lake country is that from the elevated ridges at the southern end of the Upper Lake, on the road from Glengariff. Here at a sudden turn, as at the lifting of a curtain, the three lakes flash upon the eye at a glance, lying in their wondrous valley as if sleeping secure in the guardianship of the encircling hills. Throughout the entire district, as if to enhance its purely natural attractiveness with the touch of human sympathy, are scattered numerous memorials of the greatness or piety of the past — the mystic stone circles wherein the Druids celebrated their mysterious rites ; the venerable abbeys of Aghadoe, Innisfallen and Muckross, looming out over the placid water of the lake, conspicuous in the landscape. Killarney, in the numberless objects of interest, scenic and historic, that it offers to the sightseer, may be said to present an embarras de richesse. “ Nowhere in the kingdom,” says a leading medical writer,* who has made tourist resorts a special study, “ can a more delightful holiday be spent than here ; each day there are new scenes and new sights to be visited, and the eye never tires or grows weary. It is one continued glimpse of fairy- land — a region of enchantments.” * Dr. Edgar Flinn, Irish Health Resorts and Watering Places. ROUTES AND FARES. T HERE was a time, not very long since, when the journey from England or Scotland to the South-West of Ireland could not be accomplished without a number of fatiguing and often perplexing changes ; but thanks to the excellent arrange- ments now in force, the traveller has but to step from train to boat, and from boat to train, and for the rest may admire the scenery or read his newspaper without a care. I. — The Journey via Dublin. The well-known Irish Mail Trains of the London lr jRoute ail an d North-Western Railway leave Euston Sta- tion, London, daily, at 8.30* a. m. and 8.45 p.m. (on Sundays at the latter hour only), and reach Holyhead at 2.5 p.m. and 2.17 a.m. respectively, passengers at once stepping on board one of the four fine twin-screw steamers, Ulster , Munster, Leinster, and Connaught, belonging to the City of Dublin Steam Packet Company. These vessels rival in the luxuriousness of their appointments, and in their precautions for the safety of passengers, the great ocean liners. Each vessel possesses engines of 9,000 horse power, and is capable of a speed of 24 knots an hour. They are flush-decked, 372 feet in length, and 41 feet 6 inches in breadth. The dining saloons, the drawing rooms, the smoking rooms, the cosy sleeping cabins are all of the latest design and sumptuously furnished. The passage to Kings- town takes two hours and three-quarters, often only two hours and a half ; and on arrival at that port passengers find a train waiting alongside the landing-stage, by means of which they reach Dublin (Westland Row) either at 5.30 p.m. or 6 a.m.f * Whenever times and fares are mentioned, the reader is recom- mended to verify them by the current time-tables of the companies concerned, in case of change. f The return trains in connection with the mail boats leave West- land Row railway station at 8 a.m. (Dublin time) and 7.45 p.m., Killarnsy ('?) x 2 GUIDE TO SOUTH-WEST IRELAND It is important to bear in mind that Dublin time is twenty- five minutes behind Greenwich time, and that the former is kept on all Irish railways. Passengers can book first, second or third class rail and saloon by the mail steamers, or second or third class rail and second cabin by the mail steamers, through tickets being issued for each class. Third-class passengers are carried by all trains on the Great Southern and Western Railway (Ireland). THE “ ULSTER ” (IRISH MAIL BOAT). Breakfast and luncheon are served on the morning mail from London to Holyhead, and luncheon and tea on the return day mail from Holyhead to London. Passengers desirous of dining on the way to Holyhead may leave Euston in the dining car express at 7 p.m., timed to reach Holyhead an hour before the 8.45 (i.e. 1.15 a.m.) night mail. Sleeping and arrive at Euston station at 5.40 p.m. (London time) and 6.10 a.m. Sundays, leave Westland Row at 8 a.m. and 7.45 p.m., and arrive at Euston 8.20 p.m. and 6.10 a.m. ROUTES AMD FARES Cats are attached to the night mails up and down (ys. 6 d> per berth, in addition to first-class fare). Carriages are run in connection with the steamers from Kingstown Pier direct to Kingsbridge, the Dublin terminus of the Great Southern and Western Railway, by which line we travel to Killarney and Cork, so that passengers can avoid the expense and inconvenience of a journey through the streets of Dublin. It should perhaps be mentioned for the benefit of those who have a constitutional objection to early rising that passengers by the night boats may, if they so desire, remain on board at Kingstown until 8 a.m. week-days, and 9 a.m. Sundays. A special express leaves Kingstown for Westland Row at 7.55 a.m. week-days, and 8.45 a.m. Sundays. Tourists who wish to make a break at Dublin can easily do so — and that it is worth doing a glance at the Guide to Dublin in this series will show — but those whose eagerness to explore the beautiful district described in this volume will not permit of delay, may secure a seat which, in the summer at least, need not be vacated until they reach the station at Killarney or Cork, according to destination, through carriages being run from Dublin direct to Killarney as well as direct to Cork. The “ Killarney Express ” (the fastest train in Ireland) leaves Dublin (Kingsbridge) every week-day during July, August and September at 4 p.m., arriving at Killarney at 8.1,5 p.m. Through tourist tickets, London to Killarney, available for return within six calendar months, cost : first class and saloon, 1 1 1 /— ; second class and saloon, 86/3 ; second class and second cabin, 81/9 ; third class and saloon, 59/6 ; third class and second cabin, 55/-. The London and North-Western Railway Com- N °Routf a11 P an y’ s route via North Wall (Dublin) has the advantage of being somewhat cheaper than the foregoing, but involves a slightly longer sea voyage. Trains leave Euston on week-days only at 11 a.m. and 10.15 p.m., reaching Holyhead (where they run alongside the fine steamers belonging to the Company) at 4.30 p.m. and 3.30 a.m. We give a view of the ss. Cambria, one of the vessels on the North Wall service. The steamers reach North Wall, Dublin, at 7-55 p*m. and 7.30 a.m. respectively, and a train on the North Wall Extension Railway leaves the North Wall station for Kingsbridge terminus twenty minutes after the arrival 4 GUIDE TO SOUTH-WEST IRELAND of the morning boat, and joins the io a.m. train to Killarney, giving time for breakfast at Kingsbridge.* Through tickets, London to Killarney, by North Wall route, cost : First class and saloon, 105/-; second class and saloon, 81/9; third class and saloon, 55/-; third class and deck, 47/6. Return halves of North Wall tickets are also available via Greenore, but the fare between Dublin and Dundalk must be paid. THE L. AND N.-W. RY. EXPRESS STEAMER “ CAMBRIA." The City of Dublin Steam Packet Company’s ^Dublin to fast and powerful steamers sail twice every week-day between Liverpool and Dublin in each direction, the sea passage occupying about eight hours. Through tickets are also issued by this route, and through booked passengers and their luggage are conveyed by omni- bus, free of charge, between the Company’s steamers and the railway stations in Liverpool. * The return express boats leave North Wall, on week-days only, at 11 a.m. and 9.20 p.m. ; and the trains in connection with them reach London at 8.50 p.m. and 7.30 a.m. ROUTES AND FARES 5 The British and Irish Steam Packet Company’s Dublin by Sea vesse ^ s run f rom London (North Quay, Eastern * Basin, London Docks) on Sundays and Wednes- days, and from Dublin on Wednesdays and Saturdays, calling both ways at Portsmouth, Southampton, Plymouth and Falmouth. Fares from London to Dublin : First cabin, 26/-, return, 40/-; second cabin, 18/-, return, 28/-; deck, 11/-, return, 17/-. Return tickets are available for three months, and passengers are allowed to break the journey at intermediate ports. Passengers from London can embark the evening before sailing day without extra charge, but must be on board not later than 10 p.m. Tickets can be obtained at Messrs. T. Cook & Sons for a very attractive circular tour, enabling the journey to Dublin to be made by this Company’s vessels, and the return by means of the City of Dublin Steam Packet Co.’s vessels to Liverpool, thence to London by Midland Railway. Or the outward journey can be made by rail, and the return by the British and Irish Steam Packet Co.’s vessels. II. — The Journey via Cork. The facilities for visiting Ireland provided by the FiS R S o U ssi r are and Great Western Railway have recently been Route. greatly improved by the construction of new harbours on both sides of the St. George’s Channel. The distance from Fishguard Harbour, on the Pembrokeshire coast, to Rosslare Harbour, in Wexford, is only 54 nautical miles ; and as the fast turbine steamers St. Patrick, St. George, and St. David, specially constructed for this service, have a capacity of 22^ knots an hour, the passage is accomplished in under three hours. The Harbour Station at Fishguard is connected with the Great Western main South Wales line at Clarbeston Road, and London is thus brought within 5-J hours of the port, Cardiff and New- port about 2 hours, and Birmingham 6 hours. Express trains also connect at Rosslare with the principal towns and holiday resorts in Ireland. Fishguard Harbour is sheltered by high lands on south, east and west ; and to protect it on the north a substantial breakwater, 2,000 feet in length, has been constructed. There is sufficient depth of water to accommodate vessels of the largest draught at all states of the tide, and it is claimed that the harbour is more free from 6 GUIDE TO SOUTH-WEST IRELAND fog than any other port on the coast. The Wyncliffe Hotel (under the Company’s management) is close to the quays. Day and night services are run, the former leaving Pad- dington at 8.45 a.m., the latter at 8.45 p.m., reaching Fish- guard at 2.15 (a.m. or p.m.), Rosslare at 5.10 (Irish time), Waterford at 6.30, and Cork at 9.15. Returning, the boats leave Rosslare at 12.50 p.m. and 11.50 p.m. (Irish time), the trains in connection reaching Paddington at 10.5 p.m. and 9.5 a.m. respectively. Many circular tours including the chief holiday resorts of Ireland are arranged by the Great Western Railway Co., details of which can be learnt from the current issues of the Tourist Programme, obtainable at any Great Western station. The City of Cork Steam Packet Company’s City of Cork vessels from Liverpool, Milford, Bristol, London, Company. Southampton and Plymouth afford a comfort- able and enjoyable means of reaching Killarney via Cork, and give to tourists a welcome opportunity of seeing the southern Irish coast, Cork Harbour, and the beautiful scenery of the river Lee. Saloon fares : Liverpool and Cork, 17/6, return, 25/-; Milford, 15/-, return, 22/6; Bristol, 15/-, return, 22/6; London, Southampton or Ply- mouth, 20/-, return, 30/-. Return tickets available for two months. Sailing list and programme of tours are sent free by Company on application. Tourist Tickets are issued via Cork and “ Prince of Wales Route ” to Killarney, returning via Mallow, at following fares : From Liverpool, Plymouth, or Southampton, saloon and first class, 55/-; saloon and second class, 50/-. From London, saloon and first class, 60/- ; saloon and second class, 55/-. From Bristol, saloon and first class, 54/-; saloon and second class, 49/6. From Milford, saloon and first class, 50/- ; saloon and second class, 47/-. An enjoyable method of reaching Killarney from Clyde Scotland is by the steamers of the Clyde Shipping Company. Company. Every Tuesday and Saturday after- noon a powerful, well-appointed vessel, electri- cally lighted throughout, leaves Glasgow for Cork, and the passage of 352 nautical miles from the Clyde to the Lee is full of interest. The steamer skirts the east coast of Ireland, and if the weather is favourable the land from Hill of Howth ROUTES AND FARES 7 (Dublin Bay) to Wexford Harbour and Tuskar lighthouse affords a panorama of wonderful variety, this portion of the journey being performed in daylight. After passing Tuskar the land recedes from view, the steamer making a straight course across to Roches Point, at the entrance to Cork Harbour. For further particulars, fares, etc., apply to Clyde Shipping Company, Limited, Glasgow. Cork to Killarney. There are three routes from Cork to Killarney, the first of which, viz., the direct railway route, by Great Southern and Western Railway via Mallow, is described in the reverse direction This route is so-called by reason of its having been followed by His Majesty, when Prince of Wales, in 1858. The tourist proceeds to the Albert Quay station of the Cork, Bandon and South Coast Railway, and thence travels to the western terminus of the line at Bantry. Here he has a choice of two modes of making the next stage of the journey : (a) By the four-horse coach which awaits the arrival of the train and proceeds along the head of Bantry Bay to Glengariff, a beautiful glen on the northern shore, where a halt is called for the night ; or (b) Glengariff may be reached by the new steamer, Lady Elsie, which runs in connection with the trains and coaches, and provides a welcome opportunity of survey- ing this lovely bay. The tickets are available by either coach or steamer. Resuming the journey from Glengariff next morning, the tourist is carried into Kerry near Ken- mare, from which town travellers have a choice of two routes to Killarney. They may proceed by the branch of the Great Southern and Western Railway which joins the main line at Headford, the station next to that at Killarney ; or they may retain their seats on the coach, and drive through the mountains of Kerry. The ticket is available by both routes. The Prince of Wales route is, as befits its importance, more fully described on pp. 149 -173. Circular tours by the Prince of Wales Route to Killarney and back are arranged in connection with the Great Southern and Western ; Great Northern (Ireland) ; Midland Great Western ; Waterford, Limerick and Western ; London and North-Western ; Great Western ; Lancashire and Yorkshire ; Direct Rail- way Route G.S. and Western. on p. 15. Prince of Wales Route. 8 GUIDE TO SOUTH-WEST IRELAND Great Central ; London, Brighton and South Coast ; Mid- land ; Cheshire lines ; and London and South-Western Rail- way ; the City of Cork Steam Packet Company’s ports ; and the Clyde Shipping Company’s ports. The third route from Cork to Killarney is by Mac room ra ^ ^ rom Cap well station to Macroom, where Route. well appointed coaches run via the Lakes of Inchigeela, Gougane Barra, and the Pass of Keimaneigh, joining the Prince of Wales route at Glengariff. This route is fully described on pp. 174- 179. Through tickets are issued to Killarney. Tickets for circular tour, including route as above to Killarney and return by rail (Great Southern and Western) to Cork are also issued. BRITISH AND IRISH STEAM PACKET CO.’S STEAMER. 9 THE QUAYS AND ST. PATRICK’S BRIDGE, CORK. DUBLIN TO KILLARNEY AND CORK By the Great Southern and Western Railway. T HE point of departure from Dublin to the South of Ireland is the Kingsbridge terminus of the Great Southern and Western Railway Company, at the western end of the city. Leaving Kingsbridge Station, we skirt the famous Phoenix Park, and pass in succession Clondalkin, where may be seen one of the most perfect of the many round towers in Ireland ; Lucan, noted for its mineral spring and its strawberry beds ; and Hazlehatch. The latter affords access to the town of Celbridge, near which is the abbey of the same name, a favourite resort of Dean Swift, and the home of Esther Vanhomrigh, the original of the Vanessa in his poem of “ Cadenus and Vanessa.” Our onward journey is through pretty country, At Sallins, eighteen miles from Dublin, we cross the Grand Canal, which connects the Liffey and the Shannon and so forms a waterway from the east to the west of Ireland. Then we see the Hill of Allen, rising to a height of three hundred feet from the Bog of Allen. Newbridge is the station for the Curragh of Kildare, a vast common belonging to the Crown. A per- manent camp of instruction was formed here in 1853. The Curragh, too, is the Epsom of the Emerald Isle, and is four times a year the scene of races which occupy the highest place in the estimation of Irish sportsmen. The town of Kildare is half concealed from the railway by a ridge, on the summit of which rises a round tower, 132 feet high. The ancient Cathedral has recently been restored at a cost of ;£ 12,000. A branch line runs off to the west from Portarlington ( refreshment room at station), chiefly through the famous Bog of Allen, to Tullamore and Athlone, where it connects with the Midland Great Western Railway. Leaving the junction, a run of about nine miles along a valley bounded by the Rocky Hills and the Slieve Bloom 10 u s O’CONNELL BRIDGE AND SACKVILLE STREET, DUBLIN. 12 DUBLIN TO KILLARNEY AND CORK range of mountains, brings us to Maryborough, standing on a small tributary of the Barrow. Its chief attractions are a bastion of the old Castle, erected when the town was built to overawe the natives of the then newly conquered neighbour- hood ; and the ruins of Dunamase Castle, at one time in the possession of Strongbow. It crowned the summit of a singularly-shaped rock, known as Dun Mall or Dunamase. At Maryborough the branch to Kilkenny and Waterford leaves the main line ; and Ballybrophy station (vef. room) is the junction of the Parsonstown and Nenagh branches, both of which open up the beautiful scenery of the Shannon. Then we enter the county of Tipperary and the province of Mun- ster. At Templemore we find traces of the Knights Tem- plars who founded the town and have left an interesting relic of one of their preceptories, now forming the entrance to the grounds of the Abbey. The view from the carriage window westward at this spot is interesting, as in the background are the famous Devil’s-Bit Mountains. This range obtained its name from a legend that the Devil, being benighted and hungry on the summits, bit a piece out of one, but finding it too hard and tough to eat dropped it in disgust. The tourist will plainly observe a gap in part of the range, said to have been the Satanic mouthful. The “ bit,” we are told, formed the Rock of Cashel, views of which we get after passing Thurles, the seat of the Archbishop of Cashel and the site of the once great Cistercian foundation known as Holy Cross Abbey, from its having been built (1168-9) to hold a relic of the true cross. It was here, in 1850, that the famous synod assembled, which, after condemning the Queen’s Colleges as “ godless,” recommended the foundation of a Roman Catholic University for Ireland, a course adopted by Parliament in 1879. The Roman Catholic Cathedral is one of the finest structures in Ireland. From the next station, Goold’s Cross, a new light railway, with steam motor coaches, runs to — Cashel, five and three-quarter miles to the south. Passengers can travel direct from Dublin to “ Cashel of the Kings ” without change of carriage. Few places in Ireland are of greater interest historically than this ancient but now dilapidated episcopal city. The ruins of the old Cathedral on the summit 13 M DUBLIN TO KILL ABNEY AND CORK of the Rock are among the finest in the country. The edifice was benevolently burnt in 1495 by the Earl of Kildare, “ because he thought the archbishop was within ! ” This . candid explanation, curiously enough, gained for him the appointment of lord-deputy of Ireland. Besides the Cathe- dral, there are on the rock Cormac’s Chapel, built in 1127, and the palace of the kings of Munster, with its famous round tower, 90 feet high. The Grey, or Hore, Abbey, founded by David MacCawell, Archbishop of Cashel in 1278, is a pictur- esque ruin about a quarter of a mile from — but in full view of — the Rock. Passing Dundrum, we reach Limerick Junction (ref. room), where the Waterford, Limerick and Western Railway crosses the Great Southern and Western line. Leaving the station, we have a good view leftward of the Galtee Mountains, which embrace some of the most lofty in the south of Ireland, the long hill of Slieve-na-Muck extending east and west in front of us. Kilmalloek is noted for its numerous ruins — old castles, churches and spacious mansions, which attest its former magnificence, and have given it the name of the Baalbec of Ireland. At Charleville, the direct line from Cork to Limerick leaves the main line of the system. Leaving the junction, the main line turns due south, and next passes Butte vant, a garrison town of some importance. Its chief interest lies in its connection with Spenser, who resided in the neighbourhood. The ruins of Kilcolman Castle, where the poet acted as secretary to Lord Grey of Wilton, lord deputy of Ireland, are some four or five miles from Buttevant. It was here that the first three books of the Faerie Queen were written. Leaving Buttevant and continuing our southward course, we soon reach Mallow, a noted town and an important rail- way junction (ref. room), on the banks of the Cork Blackwater. Passengers for Killarney should ascertain whether it is necessary to change here. At one time known as the Bath of Ireland, Mallow was a popular resort of invalids and others who came to drink the waters of its spa and to admire the scenery ; while the excellent fishing in the river and the con- venience of railway transit still render it a favourite centre for anglers. The mineral waters of Mallow are very similar to those of Clifton. MALLOW TO KILLARNEY AND CORK 15 Mallow to Killarney. The direct line to Killarney runs due west from Mallow, following the course of the Blackwater. There are five intermediate stations, but we only need notice those of Rathmore and Headford, the latter because it is the junction of the Kenmare branch ( see p. 148) ; the former to recall the bog-slide which took place near Quarry Lodge, to the north of the station, at Christmas, 1896, when Bogach-na-Mine, “ the bog of the meal,” some two hundred acres in extent, rolled bodily in a southerly direction, sweeping away houses and suffocating some of their occupants. Mallow to Cork. If the tourist intends, instead of proceeding direct to Killarney, to travel via the “ Prince of Wales,” or via the Macroom Route, he continues along the main line to Cork. The country is of a pretty, pastoral character, with an im- posing background of mountains, but calls for no remark until, after passing the stations at Mourne Abbey and Rath- duff, Blarney is reached. The famous Castle, with its still more famous stone, lies about a mile and a half to the west, in an extensive hollow, amid the “ Groves of Blarney.” An- other three or four miles and we plunge into a long tunnel, emerging in the north-eastern part of Cork (ref. room at station). \_uundee. WARD, LOCK, & CO., LTD., Warwick House, Salisbury Square, LONDON. CORK. T HE possibilities of Cork as a tourist centre seem hardly yet to be realised. The city contains some noble buildings, and to the student of race and manners is full of interest. But to tourists generally the slums immediately off the main streets and the general appearance of poverty are apt to act as deterrents. A stay of a day or two is by most people considered sufficient. An injustice is thus done to some of the most beautiful scenery in the south of Ireland. The surroundings of Cork are beyond all question lovely, though there may be more than one opinion as to the city itself. Within easy reach are the loughs and creeks and pretty islands of the Harbour ; the lower reaches of the Rhine- like Blackwater ; and all the puzzling, indented coast-line from Youghal to Mizen Head. Inland there are Blarney and Macroom, the pretty lakes of Inchigeela, and the Khyber- like Pass of Keimaneigh, to say nothing of numberless beauty spots and view points known to few but natives, and rarely visited even by them. We are not exaggerating in saying .that a week or fortnight can very well be spent in Cork, with a trip to a fresh place of interest every day. The hotel accommodation is good, though the economically-minded tourist is likely to deplore the absence of reliable second-rate establishments. In dry weather the city is somewhat dusty, in wet weather it is undeniably muddy, but the streets are on the whole well kept and clean, and the cheap cars and convenient service of trams make locomotion an easy matter. The streets are lighted by electricity. Before proceeding to a detailed description of the city, it may be well to insert a few items of General Information. Hotels and their Tariffs. — See Introduction. Railway Stations. — -(Five ; see plan ). — Great Southern and Western (entrance from Lower Glanmire Road), for Dublin, Queenstown, Youghal, Killarney via Mallow, etc. ; Albert Quay , for Bandon, Ban try, etc., the “ Prince of Wales Route” to Killarney; Albert Street, for Monkstown, Queenstown, Crosshaven, etc. ; Capwell, for Macroom, etc., the “ Tourist Route ” to Killarney (c) 17 CORK Glengariff and Killarney ; Western Road , on a little island adjoining Western Road, near the spot where the two branches of the Lee separate, light railway to Coachford, Blarney, etc, Cars. — There are always plenty of these waiting outside the various stations in St. Patrick’s Street, and at other stands. Hiring may be by “ set down ” or by time. For the former a somewhat elaborate table has been drawn up, but generally speaking the fare from any stand to any place within the borough is 6d., so that i/-, or 1/6 for two persons, is ample for a drive from either of the stations to the central hotels. If by time, the hirer must state so bsforehand: the fare within the borough is 1/6 the first hour, every subsequent half-hour, gd. We recommend the arrangement by time for ordinary sightseeing. Double fares between io.o p.m. and 9.0 a.m. In wet weather covered vehicles can be had. To the English visitor accus- tomed to London extortions, the cheapness of car fares in Irish cities is refreshing. Trams. — A very complete system of electric trams connects the various railway stations at a uniform fare of one penny. The system extends to Douglas (2 miles) ; Ballintemple (ij miles), both south of the city, to Blackrock in the east, and to Sunday’s Well westward. All the cars pass the Father Mathew Statue in Patrick Street. Ferries. — From near the Great Southern and Western Station there is a ferry across to the south side of the Lee. This is useful in providing easy access to the Marina, a tree-lined promenade overlooking the river, considered by many the most pleasant feature of Cork. Another ferry likely to be useful to the visitor is that at the west end of the city, from the Mardyke to Sun- day’s Well. Post Office, a stone-fronted building in George’s Street, a little off St. Patrick’s Street. English mails are delivered at 7.0 and 11.20 a.m. and 3.15 p.m. and despatched at 3.15 and 9.51 p.m. Telegraph Office at the General Post Office , is open night and day ; and there are branch offices in the Butter Market, Great George's Street , Sunday's Well, and York Stree , Blackpool, all of which are open from 9.0 a.m. till 7.0 p.m. on week-days only. The telegraph office of the Great Southern and Western Railway Station is open all day on week-days, and from 9.0 a.m. till 2.0 p.m. on Sundays. Banks. — Bank of Ireland, Munster and Leinster, National, Hibernian, and Pro- vincial Bank of Ireland, all in South Mall ; Ulster Bank, 88, St. Patrick’s Street ; Provincial, 69, St. Patrick’s Street. Opera House, Emmet’s Place, overlooking the Lee, a few hundred yards from south end of St. Patrick’s Bridge. River Trips. — The means of enjoyment most favoured during fine weather by both visitors and residents is to proceed by steamer down Cork Harbour to Queenstown, Aghada, or Crosshaven. Ordinary fares to Crosshaven : 1st return, 2/2 ; 3rd, 1/6. Cheap excursions on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays to Crosshaven : 1st return, 1/6 ; 3rd, 1/-. Cheap fares are also charged every evening after five. Populatisn (1901). — 75,078. Places of Worship, with the hours of service on Sundays : — CHURCH OF IRELAND. St. Fin Barre's Cathedral, Bishop Street — 8.0, 11.30, 3.30, and 7.0. Holy Trinity, or Christ Church, South Main Street — 11.30 and 7.0. St. Ann's, Church Street, Shandon — 11.30 and 7.0. St. Luke's, Summer Hill — 11.30 and 7.0. St. Paul's, Paul Street- — 11.30 and 7.0. St. Mary's, Shanakiel Road, Sunday’s Well — 11.30 and 7.0. St. Nicholas', Cove Street — 11.30 and 7.0. St. Peter's, North Main Street — 11.30 and 7.0. Cork Episcopal Free Church {Asylum for Distressed Widows of Clergymen), Langford Row — 11.30 and 7.0. ROM A N CA T HOI AC. St. Mary's Cathedral, Cathedral Street — Mass at 6.0, 7.0, 8.0, 9.0, 10. o, 10.30, 1 1. 15, and 12.0 ; vespers and sermon at 7.0. SS. Peter and Paul's, Patrick Street — Mass at 7.0, 8.0, 9.0, 10. o, 11.15, and 12.0 ; vespers and sermon at 7.0. CORK 19 St. Patrick's, Lower Glanmire Road — Mass at 7.0, 8.0, 9.0, io.o (military), 1 1. 15, and 12.0; vespers and ser- mon at 7.0. St. Joseph's, Mayfield — Mass at 8.30, 10.30, and 11.30; evening devo- tions at 7.0. St. Fin Barre's, Dunbar Street — Mass at 7.0, 8.0, 9.0, 10.0, 11. 15, and 12.0 ; vespers and sermon at 7.0. St. Augustine's Priory (Augustinians)i Great George’s Street — Mass at 7.30 8-30, 9.30, 10.30, 11. 15, and 12.0; rosary, sermon, and benediction at 7.0. St. Mary's (Dominicans), Pope’s Quay — Mass at 7.0, 8.0, 9.30, 10.30, 11.15 and 12.0 ; complin and sermon at 7-30. St. Francis's (Friar’s Minor), Liberty vv. Lawrence J [Dublin. ST. FIN BARRE’S CATHEDRAL. St. Fin Barre's, West ( Church of the Immaculate Conception), Lough Road — Mass at 7.0 (during the summer months only), 8.0, 10.0, 11.0, and 12.0 ; devotions at 7.0, Franciscan Capuchin Monastery and College of St. Joseph, Rochestown — Mass at 8.0 and 11.0 a.m. Street — Mass at 7.0, 8.0, 9.0, 10.15, 1 1. 15, and 12.0 ; vespers and sermon at 7.0. Holy Trinity (Friars Minor Capu- chins), Charlotte Quay — Mass at 7.0, 8.0, 9.0, 10.0, 11. o, and 12.0 ; complin and sermon at 7.0. 20 CORK St. V incent’s (Congregation of the Chapel of Convent of St. Marie's of the Mission), Sunday’s Well — Mass at Isle, Fitton Street — Mass at 7.10 ; 7.0, 8.0, 9.0, 10.0, n.o, and 12.0; benediction at 12.0. rosary and sermon at 7.0. OTHER DENOMINATIONS. Baptist , King Street — 11.30 and 7.0. Congregational , George’s Street — 12.0 and 7.0. Presbyterian. — Trinity Church, Sum- mer Hill — 12.0 and 7.0. Scots’ Church, Queen Street — 12.0 and 7.0. Garrison Church — 9.0 a.m. (mili- tary). Methodist. — Patrick Street Chapel — 1 1 .30 and 7 .0. Barrackton Chapel — 11.30 and 7.0. Society of Friends, Grattan Street — 11.0 and 7.0. Brethren, Queen Street Hall— 12.0 and 7.0. Cork. Spenser’s “ beautiful citie of Cork,” the third in importance and population in Ireland, requires to be seen from a point, such as the high ground north of the city, which includes in the survey — “ The pleasant Lee that like an island fayre Encloseth Cork in his divided flood.” It will then be seen that the main and older part of the city stands on an island, of which the Custom House forms the eastern tip, the North and South Channels uniting at that point and expanding, after a short, straight course beneath the wooded heights of Tivoli, into the noble sheet of Cork Harbour. The island, strictly speaking, is a cluster of islands, originally separated by channels, and arched over in comparatively modern times. The name is a corruption of Cor each, “ a marsh,” and there can be no doubt as to its original appropriateness. The town has, however, long since overflowed the water, if the Irishism may be allowed, and now occupies not only the island but the north and south banks, and the rising ground on either side. The fact that the river forks adds considerably to the convenience of Cork as a port, as the quayage is thereby nearly doubled. Vessels of considerable burthen can pass as far up the North Channel as St. Patrick’s Bridge, and to the Parliament Bridge by the South Channel, the Parnell Bridge being so constructed that it can be swung round to allow the passage of vessels. The shipping trade of Cork is extensive, and includes cattle, pigs, butter (who has not heard of Cork butter ?), and all sorts of agricultural produce, tweed and other kinds of woollen goods, flax, hemp, etc. Amongst the steamers making Cork a regular port of call, mention may be made of those of the City of Cork Steam Packet Company (Penrose Quay), and the Clyde Shipping Company (St. st. Patrick’s bridge. 22 CORK Patrick’s Quay). The scene by the quays as the vessels arrive and depart is always animated and interesting. Histcry of Cork. As with most places of old-world fame, the foundation of the city of Cork has been the subject of dispute, some authori- ties ascribing it to St. Fin Barre, in the seventh century, and others to the Danes, 200 years later. Probably both are right. The saint, whose name is still preserved by the stately Protestant Cathedral and a Roman Catholic Chapel, with that appreciation of a pleasant place for which the “ holy friars ” of all ages have been noted, erected a church and a residence near the site of the present city. The good man enjoyed a great reputation for sanctity, and attracted dis- ciples from all quarters. A town gradually sprang up round the settlement, and it was hoped that its sacred character would afford immunity from molestation. But, after a cen- tury or two of quiet, during which the foundation became famous throughout Europe for the learning of its scholars, the Danes landed and plundered the religious establishment and the well-to-do town which stood in its neighbourhood as well. Right coming on, the invaders are said to have repaired to the island in the centre of the stream, the advan- tages of which, from a defensive point of view, they saw at a glance. Appreciating their quarters, the Danes decided to remain, and another town sprang up, which they strongly fortified; making it a centre from which to pillage the sur- rounding country. In course of time the Danish colony became absorbed in the neighbouring race, but the effects of the fusion remain, it is said, to this day in the love of the men for the sea and a roving life. This is all we know of Cork for centuries ; though tradition has not been idle. The next thing certain is the fact of the Anglo-Norman invasion under Strongbow, when MacCarthy, Prince of Desmond, was in possession of the city and the neighbourhood. He was the first Irish chief to acknowledge the sovereignty of Henry II, and his Majesty rewarded him for this act of grace by sending an army to occupy his capital and bestow- ing on two of his own knights, Robert FitzStephen and Mico de Cogan, the greater portion of his new vassal’s terri- tory. But though Henry retained Cork in his own hands, the inhabitants of the island city ceem to have enjoyed an almost total independence, making their own laws, and, CORK 2 what was far worse, their own money. The English Parlia- ment went the length of calling the Cork coinage “ utterly damned,” an outbreak of temper which was perhaps excu- sable, but not dignified. The Cork people of those days seem to have possessed a genius for aggravation, for, while declining to send representatives to Parliament, they turned deaf ears to the solicitations of the tax gatherer on the ground that they had had no share in voting the taxes ! When Perkin Warbeck came in 1492, the citizens embraced his cause with ardour, and the mayor, Walters, was rash enough to take a leading part in the expedition, losing his head in the unhappy sequel. What was of more importance, Cork lost its charter ; and, being still “ suspect,” was in- vested in 1498 by the Earl of Kildare with a strong force, when every individual inhabitant was compelled to swear fealty to Henry VII. When it was intended to proclaim James I, the mayor took upon himself to ask the Lords Commissioners what were the king’s intentions in the matter of freedom of conscience, and failing to obtain a satisfactory answer, clapt “ my lords ” into Shandon Castle, pending further information. When it was found that James was not their man, the citizens declined to permit the proclama- tion, and it required the Lord Deputy himself and a large army to bring them to reason. In 1600, Camden describes the city as “of an oval figure, surrounded by walls, environed and intersected by the river, which is passable only by bridges, and consists of one straight street, continued by a bridge ; it is, however, a little trading town of great resort, but so beset by rebellious neighbours as to require a constant watch, as if continually besieged.” At the outbreak of the war between Charles I and the Parliament, Cork declared for the royal cause ; but on the approach of Cromwell in 1649, the citizens, with the atro- cities of Drogheda fresh in their memories, surrendered at discretion. When, in due course, Charles II got his own again, he was proclaimed in Cork eleven days before that ceremony was per- formed in London. On the deposition of James II the city once more suffered for its loyalty to the Stuarts. Churchill appeared before its walls, at the head of an Orange army, and took it after a five days’ siege, during which the city suffered severely. Kinsale, it may be noted, was captured a few days later; and this gave rise to the famous Jacobite song : — z\ THE LEE NEAR SHANDON, CORK 25 “ There are no fortresses that we can call our own, But Limerick stout, Galway, and brave Athlone, Sing, Oh-oh, hone.” The walls were soon afterwards destroyed, and we hear little Hlore of Cork as a military centre, though it maintained its reputation as “ Rebel Cork ” until well into the nineteenth century. Mr. Parnell, it will be remembered, was member for Cork at the time of his death, and the city very properly showed its respect for his memory by calling the former Anglesea Bridge by his name. In 1902 was held the Cork International Exhibition, which attracted large numbers of visitors from all parts. Literary Associations. The literary associations of Cork are of considerable in- terest. One of its most notable sons was Francis Sylvester Mahony, better known as “ Father Prout.” Born at Cork in 1804, and educated for the priesthood, he drifted into journalism, and spent the greater part of his life in London, being associated with the Daily News at the time of Charles Dickens’s editorship, and writing the “ Inauguration Ode ” for Thackeray’s Cornhill Magazine. He died in Paris in 1866, being then correspondent of the Globe. Perhaps the best remembered of Father Prout’s works is the fine lyric on — The Bells of Shandon. “ With deep affection and recollection I often think of the Shandon bells. Whose sounds so wild would, in days of childhood, Fling round my cradle their magic spells — On this I ponder, where’er I wander, And thus grow fonder, sweet Cork, of thee ; With thy bells of Shandon, That sound so grand on The pleasant waters of the river Lee. I have heard bells chiming full many a clime in, Tolling sublime in cathedral shrine ; While at a glib rate brass tongues would vibrate, But all their music spoke nought to thine ; For memory dwelling on each proud swelling Of thy belfry knelling its bold notes free, Made the bells of Shandon Sound far more grand on The pleasant waters of the river Lee, 26 CORK I have heard bells tolling ‘ Old Adrian’s mole ’ in. Their thunders rolling from the Vatican, With cymbals glorious, swinging uproarious In the gorgeous turrets of Notre Dame ; But thy sounds were sweeter than the dome of Peter Flings o’er the Tiber, pealing solemnly, O ! the bells of Shandon, Sound far more grand on The pleasant waters of the river Lee. There’s a bell in Moscow, while on towers and Kiosko, In St. Sophia the Turkman gets. And loud in air, calls men to prayer. From the tapering summit of tall minarets ; Such empty phantom I freely grant them. But there’s an anthem more dear to me : It’s the bells of Shandon, That sound so grand on The pleasant waters of the river Lee.” Another journalist of distinction in his day was Dr. Maginn, who was born at Cork in 1793. He was primarily responsible for the establishment of Fraser's Magazine, at one time a journal of great repute and circulation, but which would probably have been forgotten by now but for Thackeray’s connection with it. Maginn also contributed to Blackwood, but his intemperate habits prevented the success his extra- ordinary talents would otherwise have commanded. The text to the famous Gallery of Literary Characters was contri- buted by Maginn, and the illustrations were drawn by Mac- lise, also a native of Cork. Maclise’s mother is said to have been pew-opener for twenty-two years in the then Presby- terian Church. The young artist first attracted notice by a “ snap-shot ” sketch of Sir Walter Scott, as the great novelist bent over a bookstall while on a visit to Cork. Barry, the painter, was born at Passage, near Cork, and J. Hogan, the sculptor, some of whose best work is to be seen in St. Joseph’s Cemetery, was a native of Cork itself. William Black’s novel, Shandon Bells, deals largely with Cork and Glengariff, and may be recommended to the holiday- maker as light reading for leisure moments. J. A. Froude’s only novel, The Two Chiefs of Dunboy, is interesting for the same reason. Local Government. The corporation of Cork consists of a mayor, sheriff, four- teen aldermen and forty-two councillors. At first, Cork was CORK 27 a borough by prescription ; its oldest charter was granted by Prince John, who acted, until the memorable “ pulling of the beards ” incident, as viceroy of Ireland during the reign of his father, Henry II. The city returns two members to Parliament. Streets, Quays and Bridges. The streets are spacious, but of irregular formation — a state of things attributable to their having been originally erected on the banks of the streams which separated the islands (now united), the opposite sides of which were connected by bridges. As Macaulay puts it : “ The city extended over about one- tenth part of the space which it now covers, and was inter- sected by muddy streams, which have long been concealed by arches and buildings. A desolate marsh, in which the sportsman who pursued the waterfowl sank deep in water and mire at every step, covered the area now occupied by stately buildings, the palaces of great commercial societies.” As a reference to our plan will show, the central portion of the city is connected with those parts on the banks of the Lee by numerous bridges, the chief of which are St. Patrick’s and the Parnell Bridges. The latter, formerly known as the Anglesea Bridge, was rebuilt in 1882, and re-named, as we have said, in honour of the then senior member for the city. St. Patrick’s Bridge is remarkable as being broader than any bridge which spans the Thames except Westminster, the new structure at Vauxhall, and the recently widened London Bridge ; it is over 60 feet within the parapets. The bridge dates from 1859, and occupies the site of an older structure erected in 1798, and destroyed by flood in 1853. These two bridges are indirectly connected by three of the widest and best streets in Cork — St. Patrick’s Street, the Grand Parade, and the South Mall ; and directly by the Merchants’ Quay, on the south bank of the North River, and Warren’s Place, which rivals in width and regularity the three streets already mentioned. The Northgate Bridge crosses the northern arm of the Lee considerably to the west of St. Patrick’s Bridge ; it occupies the site of one of the old fortified bridges and gates of the city, and with the Southgate Bridge, exactly opposite to it and spanning the southern branch of the river, formed for many years the only means of communication with the sur- rounding country. The bridges are connected by North and 28 CORK South Main Streets. Bachelor’s Quay, on the south bank of the stream, connects Northgate Bridge with Grenville Place ; and at the point where these join, a spot at which the river makes a sharp turn to the south, the Footbridge affords a means of communication with the North Mall and the dis- trict of Sunday’s Well, on the northern bank of the North River. The latter is also crossed by — Wellington Bridge, at the western extremity of the city, close to the spot at which the river bifurcates. This beau- tiful bridge rests on three arches of hewn limestone, with solid parapets, and communicates with George IV Bridge, which spans the South River a mile from the terminus of the Cork and Muskerry Light Railway. Clarke’s Bridge and Parliament Bridge also span the South River. The former, which connects Wandesford Quay with Hanover Street, was built in 1726, of red clay-slate ; and the latter, a handsome structure, of one broad arch with open parapets, built of the hewn limestone so much in favour in the city, connects the South Mall with Sullivan’s Quay. The student of bridges can do very well at Cork. Not only has he within a small area no less than nine examples, but there is such a pleasing diversity in the styles that he can hardly fail to be instructed and edified. This diversity in the matter of bridges is equalled, if not excelled, by the diversity of the buildings. A most notice- able peculiarity of Cork is its absolute want of uniformity, and the striking contrasts in colour of the houses. The stone of which the houses in the northern suburbs is built is of a reddish brown — that 011 the south of a cold gray tint. Some are constructed of red brick, some of brown brick, some are sheathed in slate, some whitewashed, some reddened, some yellowed. The most conspicuous steeple in the place, that of St. Ann’s, Shandon, is actually red two sides and white the others. “ Parti-coloured, like the people, Red and white stands Shandon steeple.” The Coal Quay, between St. Patrick’s and Northgate Bridges, is a part of the city likely to interest and amuse strangers, though the more respectable citizens shun it. The name is a misnomer, as the place is some distance from the literal coal quay, and coal is not sold within its precincts ; but contrariety is reasonable here, for all know “ Paddy from o 29 POPE’S QUAY AND DOMINICAN CHURCH. 30 CORK Cork, with his coat buttoned behind.” The quay bears a close resemblance to a Spanish bazaar, both in the mode of selling and the variety of articles displayed. Everything can be had, from a needle to an anchor — from a flimsy cotton ball to a faded court suit. Chiefly on Saturday evenings, the place is thronged with the poorer classes, and as the crowd surges along the volubility and unlimited “ blarney ” of the vendors affords the reflective tourist both amusement and instruction. From the giddy height of their counters the merchants set forth the merits of their wares in phrases replete with the choicest native wit and graced with the wildest blossoms of southern rhetoric. And all this confu- sion, eloquence, and trade is further enlivened and graced by several ragged “ poets ” singing and selling “ a yard and a half of ballads for one ha’penny,” and itinerant Paganinis exhaustively scratching the “ Rakes of Mallow.” A TOUR OF THE CITY. The excellent system of electric tramways enables the tourist quickly to reach any desired part of the city. The following are the features best worth seeing : — Churches. Streets. St. Fin Barre’s, Bishop Street. SS. Peter and Paul, just off St. Patrick’s Street. St. Ann’s, Shandon, near Shan- don Street. St. Mary’s R. C. Cathedral, near Shandon Street. Public Buildings. Court House. Royal Cork Institution, and Crawford Municipal School of Art. Queen’s College. This list is by no means exhaustive, and is not intended to be so. But it may help the tourist who has a few hours only at his disposal, as the round may be compassed in a morning or afternoon. Time should certainly be allowed after seeing Cork for the trips down the Lee and to Blarney. Assuming that the start is made from the south side of St. Patrick’s Bridge, we first notice, in a commanding posi- tion in the middle of the roadway — St. Patrick’s. Grand Parade. South Mall. Warren’s Place. The Quays. Promenades and Open Spaces. The Marina, south side of Lee. (Cork “ Park,” near the Marina, is, as the natives would say, “ not much.”) The Mardyke, western end of town. 31 PARLIAMENT BRIDGE AND FATHER MATHEW MEMORIAL CHURCH. 32 CORK The Statue of Father Mathew, a fine work in bronze, by Foley, erected in 1864, and said to be a remarkably good likeness. The great Irish Apostle of Temperance was born at Thomastown House, Tipperary, in 1790, his father being agent to, and a relative of, Lord Llandaff. The Mathews were originally a Welsh family, but settled in Ireland in 1637. Mathew did not distinguish him- self either at school or at Maynooth, except for his reckless hospi- tality. He is said to have been sent down from Maynooth for violating the college rules by giving a feast in his room. He was ordained a priest in his twenty-third year, attaching himself to the Capuchins. After a short charge at Kilkenny, he came to Cork, and for twenty-four years led a busy and uneventful life amongst the poorest classes of the city. His sterling character and un- bounded generosity made him respected and beloved, but probably no one would have been more surprised than himself to learn what a prominent part he was shortly to play. Ireland was at this time in a condition deplorable beyond description. In Carlyle’s words : “ A third part of the Irish people had not for thirty weeks in the year as many third-rate potatoes as would give them food.” Mathew seems constantly to have urged his people to adopt tem- perance as a remedy for many of their ills, but his words had little effect, nor was he himself a total abstainer. At the age of forty- seven some Quakers begged him to lend his powerful support to a temperance movement they had recently inaugurated. He hesi- tated long, then called a meeting of his friends, and saying, “ Here goes, in the name of God,” signed the total abstinence pledge. His success as a temperance advocate was immediate and astound- ing. In less than three months he had enrolled 25,000 teetotalers. A month or two later the number swelled to 130,000, then to 200,000, and ere long it was calculated that half the population of Ireland, then much greater than now, had taken the pledge. 150,000 were known to come forward in four days. What is more, for some years at least, most of the people kept their pledges. The duties on Irish spirits dropped from £1,434,753 in 1839, to £852,418 in 1844. Not only in Ireland, but in Scotland, England, and the States, the Father won hosts of adherents. But his success was comparatively short-lived. The terrible famine of 1845 and sub- sequent years, and the sufferings it entailed, led many to seek again the old consolation. Mathew was indefatigable in his efforts to provide the necessaries of life for his people, begging from friends and impoverishing himself, but his movement to a great extent collapsed. In expectation of a legacy of £7,000 he had spent large sums in providing badges and tokens for his numerous societies, and when the legacy failed Mathew found himself heavily involved, and was actually on one occasion arrested for debt. To the credit of the English Government, he was awarded a pension of £300. He died, broken in health but still “ pledging,” at Queenstown, on December 8, 1856. A simple cross marks his grave in St. Joseph’s Cemetery, a burial-ground which he himself established so that, in the words of Thackeray, “ Protestants and Catholics might lie together without clergymen quarrelling over their coffins.” Killarney (d) 33 ST. PATRICK S STREET. 34 CORK Mathew’s centenary was enthusiastically celebrated in 1890. The Mathew Memorial Church overlooks the South Channel, on Charlotte Quay ( see p. 35). We are now in — St. Patrick’s Street, the “ Regent Street ” of Cork, a thoroughfare lined with handsome shops and hotels, but sadly lacking in uniformity. The seeker for souvenirs and suitable presents for the home folk is not likely to find a better place for shopping in the south of Ireland. The semicircular shape of the street is accounted for by the fact that it is built on arches over what was once a deep and important branch of the river, in which ships were laden and unladen. In the bend one notices on the left the Victoria Hotel. Winthrop Street leads from St. Patrick’s Street to George’s Street, where stands the Chief Post Office, a handsome stone- fronted building, recently erected at a cost of £4.0,000. Lower down are the Imperial Hotel and Commercial Buildings. Continuing round St. Patrick’s Street to its junction with the Grand Parade, a short alley on the right conducts to the Roman Catholic Church of St. Peter and St. Paul, a handsome Gothic building designed by Wei by Pugin. The interior is very richly decorated. For those who have time to see only one Catholic church we should be inclined to recommend this. The architectural proportions of the exterior would be seen to better effect in a wider street. A few yards further we turn left into the Grand Parade, the widest street in Cork. It stands on what was once a large dock, arched over in 1780. Up to that time the western side was known as Tuckey’s Quay, and the eastern as the Mall — the latter then a pleasant promenade, shaded with trees. The two sides were connected by a bridge on which stood an equestrian metal statue of George II, colloquially known as “ George-a-cock-horse.” The Grand Parade is notable for an immense circular fountain which stands in the middle of the roadway. There is an inscription round it relating to one Berwick, but we are not aware that any one has ever been known to make the extensive circuit for the sake of reading it. The principal meat, fish and vegetable Markets are on the Parade. CORK 35 From the Parade, Great George’s Street leads to Western Road and the terminus of the Light Railway to Blarney and Coachford. The tourist would do well to proceed in this direction at least as far as the Court House, the Corin- thian portico of which, according to Macaulay, “ would do honour to Palladio.” The columns are 30 feet high, and rest on a platform 6 \ feet above the level of the street, approached by a flight of eleven steps. On the apex of the pediment is a group of figures representing Law and Mercy supporting Justice. The interior contains two courts and other apartments. The central hall, with its lofty dome, is very imposing. The apparent newness of the Court House is accounted for by the fact that it was completely gutted by a fire which broke out on Good Friday, 1891. At the end of the Grand Parade we reach the South Channel. The premises of the Cork City Club prevent a turning right- ward, and we therefore turn into the South Mall, another broad thoroughfare, in which stand most of the banks and the offices of the principal professional men. On Charlotte Quay stands the — Father Mathew Memorial Chapel, or Church of the Holy Trinity. It is a beautiful limestone building, and when seen from across the water immediately arrests the eye by its curious open front and pinnacled tower. The spire is 200 feet high. The church contains a fine stained- glass window in memory of O’Connell, the “ Liberator.” Crossing the South Channel by Parliament Bridge, with its single arch, we turn westward by Sullivan’s Quay and French’s Quay to Bishop Street, noticing high up on the left the dingy wall of Elizabeth Fort. We now reach what is by far the most noteworthy and imposing building in Cork, St. Fin Barre’s Cathedral, the Protestant cathedral of the diocese. It occupies the site of the church erected by the saint to whom Cork is said to owe its foundation, and is the third building which has stood on the spot. The design has been truly described as “ utterly un-English in character.” The west front in particular suggests Bayeaux or Rheims. The late William Burgess, A. R. A., was the archi- CORK 36 tect, and considering the past connection of France with the South of Ireland, it was a happy inspiration on his part to adopt so successfully the French Early Pointed style. The Cathedral was consecrated, in an unfinished state, by the late Bishop Gregg, in 1870 ; and it has since been completed, mainly at the expense of Mr. Wise, the distiller, and Mr. Crawford, the brewer. The central tower, surmounted by a plain octagonal spire, 240 feet high ; the two western towers and spires, of the same design ; the magnificent west front, with its statuary and beautiful portals ; the semicircular apse, at the east end ; the large rose windows at the end of each transept ; the great number of other windows, filled with stained glass ; and the massive buttresses — these and every detail, charmingly blended and forming a harmonious whole, make the Cathedral externally a “ thing of beauty.” The richly-carved West Front, with its three portals, massive rose window and stately spire, is the most noteworthy portion of the exterior. The figures on either side of the middle portal represent the Wise and Foolish Virgins, with lamps in their hands, the Bridegroom standing in the centre. In- ternally, the church is even more imposing. It is 162^ feet in length, and its width, with the aisles, is 56^. The tran- septs are 81-^ feet long, from east to west, and 11J feet wide. The roof of the nave is 68, and the lantern of the central tower 10 1 feet above the pavement. The bishop’s throne (of carved oak), erected by the clergy of the diocese as a memorial of Bishop John Gregg, at a cost of nearly ^1,500, is 46 feet high. On the three wooden panels enclosing the seat are carved the heads of twenty eminent prelates who have filled the see of Cork, beginning with St. Fin Barre. The upper part is turreted and crocketed, and has appropriate carved emblems. The mosaic pavement of the semicircular apse is of remarkable design, by Mr. Burgess, illustrating Matthew xiii. 47 : “ The kingdom of heaven is like unto a net, that was cast into the sea, and gathered of every kind.” This costly work, executed in Paris by Italian artists, was one of the last gifts of Bishop John Gregg. The lectern, presented by ladies of the diocese, is most elaborate and beautiful. The stained-glass windows of the aisles and tran- septs represent scenes from the Old Testament, beginning at the west rose-window with the Creation. Round the ambu- latory are windows representing scenes from the New Testa- ment, commencing at the north end. It is thought probable that Spenser, the poet, was married (June 11, 1594) in the church which formerly stood on the site. His bride was a Cork lady, but of the county, not the city. He provokingly asks— CORK 37 “ Tell me, ye merchant daughters, did ye see So fayre a creature in your town before ? Her goodlie eyes, like sapphyres shining bright ; Her forehead, ivory white, Her lips like cherries charming men to byte.” In 1688 the old church was garrisoned by the English, and the guns of the Irish fort close by did it considerable damage. In the south transept of the present building can be seen on a bracket a cannon-ball which was found embedded in the former steeple. Facing the west end of the cathedral is the Bishop’s Palace, a plain modern building, standing in extensive grounds. About a mile to the south-east is St. Joseph’s Cemetery, at one time used as botanic gardens. They were purchased in 1826, as Thackeray has told us, for their present use, by Father Mathew, who was himself interred therein, and whose grave, with its simple stone cross, is visited annually by thousands. The ground contains some beautiful monuments by Buckley, Foley, and Ambrose, all citizens of whom Cork is proud. The most remarkable tomb consists of a sarco- phagus of Portland stone, resting on a base of limestone. On the sarcophagus is the figure of a mourning angel, in white marble — one of the masterpieces of Hogan, the well- known sculptor, who was a native of the city. Walking or driving westward along Gill Abbey Street and College Road for about half a mile we reach — Queen’s College, occupying the summit of a rock about 40 feet above the level of the South River, which laves its base. It stands on the site of the monastery founded by the patron saint of Cork, first of all called Antro Sancti Fion Barrie (“ the cave of St. Fin Barre ”), and afterwards known as Gill Abbey, in memory of Gilla Aeda O’Mugin, one of its most celebrated abbots. The College, in the Tudor style, is constructed of a greyish limestone, and consists of a quadrangle, round which are grouped an examination hall, lecture rooms, library, museum, cloisters, and residences for the president and vice-president. The grounds contain a number of tropi- cal plant houses and an observatory. The College was established in 1849 as part of a general scheme to meet the educational wants of Ireland, but as the “ godless ” colleges have not found favour with the Roman Catholic authorities, Queen’s College has never attracted a great number of 38 CORK students. Visitors are generally allowed, on application, to look over the building. Our return to the heart of the city can be varied by turn- ing round by the Gaol, crossing the South Channel, and entering Western Road, along which the light railway to Blarney runs. A rustic bandstand will be seen in a field, and crossing to this we reach — The Mardyke, a mile-long promenade running between the two channels of the river. It is arched overhead by the entwining branches of the fine elm trees that grow on either side. Thackeray, in his Irish Sketch Book, thus describes it : — “ We pass all sorts of delightful verdure, cheerful gardens, and broad green luscious pastures down to the beautiful river Lee. On one side, the river shines away towards the city, with its towers and purple steeples ; on the other, it is broken by little waterfalls and bounded in by blue hills, an old castle lowering in the distance, and innumerable parks and villas lying along the pleasant, wooded banks. How beautiful the scene is, and how rich and how happy ! ” But the encroachments of the builder have robbed the Mardyke of much of its charm, and it cannot for a moment compare with the Marina, at the other end of the city ( see p. 42). The ground to the north formed the site of the Cork International Exhibition, 1902-3, and has now been con- verted into a public park, known as Fitzgerald Park, in honour of Sir Edward Fitzgerald, Bart., who was Lord Mayor at the time of the Exhibition. On the other side of the North River, and reached by ferry or by the Wellington Bridge, near the end of the Mar- dyke, is the district of — Sunday’s Well, which occupies the southern slope of a long hill stretching westward in a line with the river and overlooking the city. The name is supposed to be derived from a spring once believed to possess miraculous virtues. In this quarter are the Cork Waterworks and a number of imposing public buildings. The long structure of coloured brick, with white stone dressings, that shows up so prominently is the St. Vincent’s Roman Catholic Church and Retreat. Near it is the Good Shepherd Convent. The extensive Lunatic Asylum appears to be a quite desirable place of residence. Another building much in evidence is the castellated Female Prison. 39 4 o CORK Continuing citywards along Sunday’s Well Road and Blarney Street, we reach Shandon Street, and enter a rather poor quarter of the city. A turning on the right (Church Street), ascending the hill, leads to — St. Ann’s, Shandon, the bells of which gave rise to Father Prout’s lyric (see p. 25) and also provided the late Wm. Black with a title for his well-known novel, Shandon Bells. We have already drawn attention to the two colours of its pepper-box-like steeple, but otherwise the building does not call for comment. It dates from 1722. There are quaint in- scriptions on the bells, one of which states that “ Abel Rudhall, of Glo’ster, made us all.” The tower clock has four dials and can be seen from nearly all parts of the city. Father Prout was buried in the family vault near the foot of the tower. Just beyond and above Shandon Church is St. Mary’s Roman Catholic Cathedral, W. Lawrence ,] SHANDON CHURCH. [Dublin. CORK 4i or the North Chapel. It was built in 1808, and boasts a massive and lofty tower, but architecturally it is not a success. The interior is in striking contrast to the plain exterior, and deserves to be seen, though the tourist may object to the over-elaboration of some of the details, and the almost gaudy appearance of the whole. A monument by Turnerelli, near the altar, commemorates Dr. Moylan, the founder of the cathedral, and in the open space in front of the main entrance is a bronze statue of Bishop Delany, D.D., erected in 1890. By following the squalid Old Chapel Lane up the hill, with the Fever Hospital on the left hand, one reaches the Old Youghal Road, which may be described as the “ Northern Heights ” of Cork, affording an excellent view over the city and harbour. The Barracks and camp field are up here, and the tunnel of the Great Southern and Western Railway, leading to Glanmire station, runs below. To regain St. Patrick’s Street from the Old Youghal Road we turn down Audley Place to St. Patrick’s Hill. The latter is perhaps the steepest street in Cork. How the horses manage to get up and down is a marvel. Convenient steps assist the pedestrian. Having regained St. Patrick’s Bridge, a walk of a quarter of a mile along the north side of the river would bring us to the Dominican Church of St. Mary’s, the Ionic portico of which stands out so clearly in the view from St. Patrick’s Bridge. The church is deservedly admired for the chaste- ness of its style and its just proportions. On the opposite bank of the river, but not quite so far from St. Patrick’s Bridge, is the Cork Opera House. The Crawford Municipal Schools of Science and Art. (Visi- tors are admitted to the museum, class rooms, and lecture theatre daily, Sundays excepted, from 10. o to 10.0.) This important institution occupies the site of the old Custom House, which having been used by the Royal Cork Institution till it ceased to exist, was granted by the Crown to the Corporation in 1883, f° r the erection of the schools. The new buildings were the gift of the late Mr. William H. Crawford (hence their name), and were opened by the then Prince and Princess of Wales in 1885. In addition to classrooms for painting, lace- making, modelling, and other subjects, there is a small sculp- ture and picture gallery, containing a collection of works by Cork artists, headed, as is only proper, by Maclise. The 42 CORK museum contains a number of antiquities, coins, fossils, etc. The imaginary round thus described has taken in most of the important features of Cork, but is far from complete. Cork must have, in proportion to its size and population, more public buildings, churches, convents, asylums, and benevolent institutions than any other town in the kingdom. Fortunately it is neither necessary nor desirable that we should describe them all. But so far nothing has been said about the eastern end of the town and its chief ornament, the Marina. We will, there- fore, suppose a start to be again made from Father Mathew’s statue. We turn this time eastward along the Merchants’ Quay, which borders the south side of the Lee. At Warren’s Place, a broad thoroughfare resembling the Grand Parade (see p. 34), we turn rightward to the Parnell Bridge, formerly the Anglesea Bridge, and, crossing it, reach Albert Quay. Here are the Municipal Buildings, mayor’s office, and so on. The new Free Library was built by means of a donation of ^10,000 from Mr. Andrew Carnegie. Close at hand is Albert Quay Station (the terminus of the Cork, Bandon, and South Coast Railway, by which the tourist proceeds, via the Prince of Wales route, to Killarney). Not many steps westward is the Albert Street Station, belonging to the Cork, Blackrock, and Passage Rail- way Company, by whose trains and steamers we can proceed down the harbour to Crosshaven, etc. Continuing by the river bank, we have on the right a large open space euphe- mistically known as Cork Park. It is reclaimed marshland, but being almost untimbered is not particularly attractive. The Racecourse adjoins, and a further part of the marshy tract is occupied by the showyards of the Cork Agricultural Society. Still continuing by the river we reach — The Marina, a delightful tree-lined promenade, commanding exquisite peeps of the Lee and the pretty villas and gardens on the opposite bank. Seats and rustic shelters are placed at inter- vals, and the thirsty may imbibe from a number of not very inviting wayside fountains. In recent years this promenade has been greatly improved, and it is certainly the part of Cork most likely to please visitors. There is a small band- 4.J ON THE LEE, 44 CORK stand, and the local clubs have erected boating-houses of much amenity. Across the water are the suburbs of Montenotte and Tivoli. An eastern traveller has observed of the latter : “A few minarets placed in its hanging gardens would realise the Bosphorus.” Raleigh lived at Tivoli for a time, and it is said that trees planted by him still exist. Miss Curran, the betrothed of poor Robert Emmett, resided at a house known as Woodhill. Her romantic story inspired Moore’s musical lyric, “ She is far from the land where her young hero sleeps.” Further eastward, on the north bank, the pretty Glanmire stream joins the Lee, beneath a drawbridge of cast iron. The walk along the Marina and the south bank of the river may be continued as far as Blackrock Castle (see p. 46) and the beautiful expanse of Lough Mahon. There is not much to interest visitors in the southern por- tion of the city, but some may be inclined to see the Lough of Cork ( Longh-na-famog ), just off the Bandon Road. It is a considerable sheet of water, fed by streams from the sur- rounding hills, and is interesting as the scene of one of the most remarkable of Crofton Croker’s Fairy Legends. EXCURSIONS FROM CORK. A TTENTION has already been drawn to the convenience of Cork as a centre for excursions, and to the fact that the visitor is likely to spend more time around the city than in it. On the whole, the local railway companies, small though their lines may be, are attentive to the wants of the public, and in many respects would “ give points ” to larger con- cerns. But as trains are in some cases few and far between, the tourist should on no account omit to provide himself with one of the pocket time-tables published locally. In all cases where fares and times are mentioned in this work, they should he verified by reference to current time-tables. For whole-day excursions it will generally be found that a start has to be made about 9 a.m., the most important trains leaving at that somewhat early hour. Excursions at cheap fares are often run on Sundays, and on Wednesdays and Thursdays. The tourist with a mind to economy should look out for the announcements. I.— CORK HARBOUR, QUEENSTOWN, CROSS- HAVEN, ETC. In this, which is by far the most popular trip from Cork, the visitor is fortunate in having an ample choice of trains and steamers. There are three routes to Queenstown : — (1) By rail and steamer. — Cork, Blackrock, and Passage Railway, from Albert Street terminus to Monkstown, thence by the Company’s steamers to Queenstown, Aghada, or Crosshaven and intermediate stopping-places. The railway has recently been extended from Monkstown to Crosshaven. (2) By steamer all the way from St. Patrick’s Bridge. Same management as above. There is only one steamer a day (none on Sundays), starting from the bridge about 11.50, but any steamer or train can be taken for the return journey. 45 46 BLA CKROCK — PA SSA GE (3) By rail all the way. — Great Southern and Western Railway (Glanmire station) to Queenstown. Frequent trains. Journey takes about half an hour. We will assume that Route 1, the most used, is taken. Visitors who have not walked along the Marina (see p. 42) and seen the beauties of the river in the narrower part of its course, may prefer Route 2, as it gives an opportunity of seeing the whole of the noble sea avenue to Cork. Care should be taken to ascertain at Monkstown or Queenstown whether the steamer goes to Aghada or to Crosshaven, as there are two distinct services. A start is made from Albert Street station. Owing to the broad gauge of Irish lines, the carriages are of roomy con- struction, and instead of the regulation wooden partitions between the compartments glass is used, an idea which seems worthy of imitation elsewhere. The first-class carriages are worth the trifling difference of fare. We skirt Cork Park and the Racecourse, and stop first at pretty Blackrock station. Blackrock Castle stands on a bold promontory commanding the river. It was built by Lord Deputy Mount joy, in 1604, as part of the defences of Cork ; and rebuilt by the Cork Harbour Commissioners in 1830. We shortly cross a viaduct over the Douglas creek, and for the rest of the journey the railway skirts the water, affording, especially if the tide be up, some most entrancing views. Lough Mahon, as the wide expanse of the Lee is here called, has the appearance of a land-locked lake. It is bordered by hills and woods and far-stretching pastures, and dotted here and there with islands. The land to the north, nearly opposite Blackrock Castle, is not the mainland, but Little Island. Conspicuous on a small eminence is the Mathew Tower, a tribute to the memory of the Apostle of Temperance. Eastward, beyond the island of Fota, with its tower, is the lovely demesne of Lord Barrymore. Hop Island, close to Rochestown station, is said to have derived its name from the fact that the family to whom it belonged taught dancing in Cork. Passage West, where the railway at one time terminated, is a small town with a number of dockyards at which vessels of one kind or another are generally under repair. Father Prout’s description need not be taken seriously : — MONKSTOWN 47 The town of Passage And situated Is both large and spacious, Mud cabins swarm in This place so charmin’, With sailors’ garments ’Tis nate and dacent, And quite adjacent To come from Cork Upon the say. Hung out to dry ; And each abode is Snug and commodious, With pigs melodious On a summer’s day. In their straw-built stye. There you may slip in To take a dippin’ Forenent the shippin’ It’s there the turf is, And lots of murphies, Dead sprats and herrings That at anchor ride. Or in a wherry Come o’er the ferry To Carrigaloe, And oyster shells ; Nor any lack, O, Of good tobacco, Though what is smuggled On the other side. By far excels.” A comparatively narrow channel separates the mainland from Great Island, on which Queenstown stands. The ledges of steep sandstone rock on the Passage side are known as the Giant’s Stairs, and are said to have been constructed by the giant O’Mahony, a member of the powerful sept of Mahonys, from whom Lough Mahon takes its name. Glenbrook, where is the next station, is a growing village much favoured by Cork people for summer residence. The Royal Victoria Hotel and Baths will arrest the eye by their curious construction, suggestive of primitive lake dwellings, though it is only fair to say that there is nothing primitive about the hotel itself, which is a very comfortable place of residence. The salt- water swimming-bath is 200 feet by 30 feet. Special bathers’ tickets are issued from Cork at reduced rates, which include fare and bath. half a mile further south, is believed to derive its name from a colony of Benedictine monks. The place contains the ruins of an Elizabethan fortified residence, known diversely as Monkstown Castle and O'Mahony's Castle. Tradition declares Anstatia Goold, whose lord, one John Archdecken, was fighting under Philip of Spain (possibly against his lawful sovereign), feeling “ lonesome like ” during his long absence from home, conceived the idea of erecting this castle to while away the time and to surprise him on his return. Being, like John Gilpin’s spouse, of a frugal mind, she shrewdly stipu- lated that the workmen should buy all their food from her. They either lived very extravagantly, or were greatly over- charged, for the lady’s profits were so considerable that it was Monkstown, 48 QUEENSTOWN found when the work was done that the house had only cost her a groat. Her husband returned in due course, and seems to have appraised his treasure of a wife at her proper value, though the chronicler tells us only that they were eventually interred together in their family vault, in the burial-ground of the ruined church of Temple-en-Bryn, adjoining the castle. Monkstown Church, an Early English, ivy-grown structure, standing on a picturesque elevation, is said to have been the first Protestant place of worship erected in the neighbourhood after the Reformation. At Monkstown the railway until recently ended, but the extension to Crosshaven is now complete, and the traveller bound for that place can keep his seat instead of having to change from train to steamer. Many passengers, however, if not pressed for time, still prefer to complete the journey by steamer, via Queenstown, as this affords an opportunity of seeing the Harbour. On leaving Monkstown, the Queens- land steamer heads westward round White’s Point for the channel between Great Island and Haulbowline Island. We have an excellent opportunity of seeing Haulbowline Island, and may even, if the tide permits, call at its pier, though an order must be obtained from the authorities before this and neighbouring islands can be visited. Haulbowline is a most important naval dockyard and military station, and extensive works are still in progress. Rocky Island, to the south, is principally used for the storage of ammunition. Spike Island, or Fort Westmoreland, still further south, is the largest of the group. It was formerly a convict station, and many of the government works were executed by convict labour. We see it to better advantage after leaving Queens- town. Queenstown. Hotels and Tariffs. -—See Introduction. Approaches. — See Routes from Cork (p 45). By Great Southern and Western Railway from Dublin, about 4I hours. Railway Station. — Close to landing-stage where tenders deposit passengers from the liners. The station includes refreshment and waiting rooms. Pier. There is a refreshment room, with moderate tariff, at the landing-stage of the Passage Railway Company’s Steamers. Band Promenades during season on Thursdays, 7 to 10 p.m. Places of Worship, with hours of service on Sundays : — Cathedral — Services from 7.30 a.m. Presbyterian — 12 noon. Church of Ireland — 11.30 a.m. Wesleyan Methodist — 11.30 a.m. Seen from the water, Queenstown, with its dominating but towcrJess cathedral, is very attractive. The town is built in Killarney (e) 49 QUEENSTOWN HARBOUR. 50 QUEENSTOWN terraces on the hillside, rising tier behind tier, the houses commanding a fine prospect across the Harbour. The Har- bour itself, whether seen from the deck of a steamer, or from the heights above the town, makes a majestic picture. A modern warship is generally moored as guardship off the town, but even these vessels look mere buoys on that vast expanse, while gunboats and torpedo boats are no better than corks. The entire British navy could find anchorage here, and there would still be room for an enemy’s fleet if one cared to come. Far away to the south, right beyond Spike Island and the rest, one can see the bottle-neck entrance to the harbour, with Carlisle and Camden Forts on either side, and the white lighthouse on Roche’s Point at the extreme end. Queenstown was formerly known as Cove, its present name arising from the fact that Queen Victoria landed here on her visit to Ireland in 1849. Apart from its importance as a port of call for the American liners, and as a great naval and military station, Queenstown is rapidly acquiring a reputa- tion as a health resort, particularly for the winter. Says a reliable authority : — “ The climate is remarkably mild and equable, and, at the same time, fairly dry and tonic, and is especially suitable as a winter and spring residence for persons with delicate chests, to sufferers from chronic catarrhal throat affections, and to convalescents from acute diseases. It is particularly appropriate as a seaside resort to per- sons requiring a soothiqg and sedative atmosphere. From the position of Queenstown, winds from the colder points are very little felt, and it is completely protected from the north, north-east and north-west winds. The mean temperatures of the season are exactly similar to those at Torquay, and higher than those of Bournemouth, Hastings and Ventnor. As a winter health resort Queenstown possesses all the best natural and climatic advantages.” The business portion of the town, including the best hotels and shops, faces the quay. The scene here is generally lively, what with man-o’ -war’s men, yachtsmen, merchant seamen, and pleasure-seekers. The Promenade is a narrow asphalted enclosure, with bandstand and seats. The Band Promenades (usually on Thursdays, 7.0 to 10.0) are very popular func- tions. The Swimming Baths, opened in 1898, are a valuable acquisition to the town. The Royal Cork Yacht Club is housed in luxurious quarters near the station. The annual regatta is a notable event, crowds of people coming in not only from Cork but from the villages for miles around. 51 [Dublin. 52 GREAT ISLAND— CORK HARBOUR The only notable building in Queenstown is the richly- decorated Roman Catholic Cathedral — surely one of the most finely situated in the kingdom. It is dedicated to St. Col- man, and, though still far from complete, should on no account be omitted from the programme of the sightseer. The style is a florid Gothic, the light and spacious interior being as pleasing to the eye as the exterior. The west front is elabo- rately carved. Funds are lacking to complete the tower, but we believe something like ^100,000 have already been spent. Great Island is five miles from east to west and two from south to north. The circuit of the island may be made from Queenstown in a drive or cycle ride of about two hours. The views are varied and pleasing, but nothing calls for remark except the occasional martello towers and the remains of Belvelly Castle, formerly a seat of the Hodnetts, but now, like much of the land hereabouts, part of the Barry estate. Great Island was at one time known as Barrymore Island. Leaving Queenstown, one service of vessels proceeds in a south-easterly direction to Aghada, but it will be more con- venient to regard this as a separate trip (see p. 54), and to continue the description of the Crosshaven route. We round the ugly but useful Spit Light, and presently have on the right the fortifications of Spike Island (p. 48) and on the left the queer-shaped promontory of Corkbeg, which bids fair one day to add another island to the already numerous archipelago in the harbour. Carlisle Fort frowns above us on the east, and to the west we have a much indented coast-line, backed by hills and woods. Nearing Currabinny we sight to the right what is apparently a wide creek running inland as far as some woods, a mile or so away. To this creek a pretty story is attached which Englishmen cannot but love to hear. In the first place the creek is not a creek at all, but a river, known vari- ously as the Carrigaline River, or the Owenabwee, “ Amber Water.” Then, instead of a seeming course of one mile, it extends inland, after a sharp twist, for something like twenty miles, further, in fact, than to Kinsale Junction, on the Bandon line. For the first five miles or so, to the Carrigaline road, the water is fairly deep, and navigable at high tide. In the year 1587 Admiral Sir Francis Drake, having singed the Spaniard’s beard and committed other enormities, found it convenient to show u clean pair of heels to a powerful CROSSHA YEN 53 Spanish fleet which was desirous of making his further acquaintance. With his five little sloops he made for Cork harbour, and was by the Spaniards clearly seen to enter. The tactics which served the Americans in 1898, when Admiral Cervera was in similar plight at Santiago, did not serve Cervera’s predecessors in the days of Queen Bess. Instead of waiting quietly until Drake should come out, the Spaniards went in to look for him. They scoured the har- bour from east to west, and from north to south, exploring as they thought every creek, winding and channel, but Drake was not to be seen. For days the search continued, and at length the Spaniards, attributing his disappearance to magic, thought well to disappear also. Upon which out came "Drake with his merry men from behind those very woods .Which seem to mark the water's limit ! The secluded spot has^since been known as Drake’s Pool. Crosshaven. Conveyances run in connection with trains and steamers to Church Bay and Weaver Point on the coast. Fare, threepence each way, or twopence if through ticket taken at Cork or Queenstown. Crosshaven is as yet only a small village with a large hotel. Now that the new railway adds its quota of pleasure-seekers to those brought by the steamers, the small village is likely to become a large one, and the large hotel larger still. The railway from Monkstown to Crosshaven brings one through lovely country, passing Drake’s Pool and Carrigaline Castle. Though itself somewhat sheltered, and denied an ocean view, Crosshaven is within easy distance of Church Bay and Myrtleville Bay on the coast. What Brighton is to London, Crosshaven is to Cork, and during the summer the accommo- dation of the place is sometimes severely taxed. Combined railway and hotel tickets are issued, and a week-end (Satur- day to Monday) can be spent at the Crosshaven Hotel for 18/6, including fare from and to Cork. A modern Church stands close to the village. There are a number of pretty walks in the locality, the deep-set, tree-shadowed lanes, with their numerous twists and turns, reminding one of the famous Jersey lanes. On the hill above Crosshaven stands the desolate and for- saken ruin of Templebrady Church, a prominent object both from sea and harbour. A short drive or walk brings us to Church Bay, a delightful CHURCH BAY 54 spot with lofty cliffs and sheltered bathing nooks. The air is noticeably soft and balmy. In due time hotels and board- ing houses will spring up on the best parts of the cliff, but at present the spot is quite unspoilt — even the bathing arrange- ments are charmingly primitive. A week-end (Saturday to Monday) can be spent at the Church Bay Hotel for 16/— , in- cluding first-class fare from and to Cork. Not far from Church Bay is the powerful Templebrady Fort, recently con- structed to command the waterway used by the liners passing to and from America. The coast can be followed on one side round to Camden W . Lawrence ,] [ Dublin . AN IRISH COTTAGE. Fort, and so back to Crosshaven ; but a far better tramp for those with time to spare is in the other direction by a rough cliff path to Myrtleville Bay. Crosshaven can be regained either by the regular conveyance, or by striking inland to a bye-road shortly before Myrtleville is reached. II.— TO AGHADA, ROCHE’S POINT, CLOYNE AND BALLYCOTTON. The description of Excursion I. (pp. 45-48) will serve for this as far as Queenstown. Leaving that favoured town, the AGHADA 55 steamer proceeds almost due east, giving passengers an opportunity of seeing parts of the great harbour not touched by the Crosshaven route. Here is the favourite anchorage for yachts. Great Island shows up well, and almost due north of Aghada we get a glimpse of the East Ferry River, the narrow channel which separates the island from the mainland. A sail up this channel is a delightful experience, the scenery on either side being very pleasing. Aghada. Conveyances in connection with steamers. — (a) To Whitegate, 6 d. ; Trabolgan and Roche’s Point, i/-; return tickets, 1/6 from last two places, (b) lo Cloyne, 6 d., and Ballycotton, i/- ; fares same each way. Aghada, “long ford” (pronounced A -had' -a, with accent on second syllable), is little more than a straggling street of mean-looking houses, picturesque only from the water. The coach trip (a), to Roche’s Point, etc., affords excellent views of the harbour, and is breezy and exhilarating. Tra- bolgan is a seat of Lord Fermoy. Roche’s Point Lighthouse, familiar to Atlantic voyagers, is the signalling station for homeward-bound vessels. The route ( b ), in the other direction, requires rather more notice. We skirt the harbour as far as Rostellan Castle, with its beautiful woods and grounds, to which visitors are freely admitted on Wednesdays. The drive onward to Cloyne and Ballycotton cannot for a moment be compared with the drives about Killarney,. but it is pretty, and for cyclists the roads are distinctly good. Castlemary, a mile or so from Cloyne, possesses an interesting Druidical cromlech. At Cloyne (5^miles from Aghada) a halt is made and tickets collected. The town is remarkable for its famous Round Tower, which adjoins the Cathedral, and is in good preserva- tion. It was originally 92 feet high, and, like others of its class, had a conical roof. Being fitted up with lofts and used as a belfry, the metal attracted lightning, which rent the roof and tore away the upper portion of the wall. It has been repaired, and a battlement, which increases the height to 102 feet, placed round the top. The door is 1 1|- feet from the ground, and the interior is divided into six storeys. The tower is cylindrical from top to bottom, and of an uniform diameter of 9 feet. The walls are 33 inches thick. The origin and use of these towers, of which there are more than a hundred in Ireland, and scarcely any elsewhere, is a ques- tion which has long puzzled antiquaries, but Dr. Petrie is 56 BALLY COTTON probably right in conjecturing that they were erected as places of refuge and treasure houses for the monks. They are always found in proximity to ecclesiastical buildings, and as they are almost unclimbable, and have but a single en- trance, their adaptability to the purpose is evident. Cloyne Cathedral is now used as a Protestant Church, and the diocese, a very ancient one, is merged in that of Cork. A former bishop was Berkeley, the famous eighteenth cen- tury metaphysician. He was buried at Oxford, but a monu- ment to his memory was placed in the cathedral in 1889. There are two roads from Cloyne to Ballycotton and the coast, the more circuitous being known as the Shangarry road. Ballycotton is seven miles from Cloyne, and long before we reach it we sight its island lighthouse. Between the road and the sea is a great stretch of marshland which affords good shooting. Ballycotton. Hotels . — Sea View, Ballycotton, Pier View. Ballycotton lies right out of the beaten track of the tourist, and is not known as it deserves to be. Cork people have discovered it, however, and make good use of their know- ledge, judging by the villas that are springing up. It is a pleasant, unsophisticated spot, where a family may rusticate with great content and ease. The cliffs to the west are wild and bold, and the sea has scooped out little bays here and there for the very purpose of providing conveniences for bathers. At low tide long stretches of seaweed-covered rock are exposed. Persons who take the cliff paths may be ad- vised not to go too near the edge. There is an excellent harbour, with massive piers running round it, though it seems all too large and expensive for the comparatively few fishing vessels and yachts that shelter here. The Lighthouse stands on a tiny island, separated from the town by a narrow channel. Lighthouses lend themselves to picture-making, and we have rarely seen one better adapted to the purpose than this, though the amateur daubs which adorn the hotels hardly do it justice. To the east can be seen the cliffs that mark the entrance to Youghal Harbour. III.— TO BLARNEY CASTLE. To visit the south of Ireland, and omit to kiss, or attempt to kiss, the far-famed Blarney stone would be to defy con- vention, and expose oneself to all sorts of reproaches on CORK TO BLARNEY 57 returning home. Apart from its nonsensical aspect, however, the trip has many points of interest. An early morning or early afternoon train should be taken, so that a half-day only need be occupied. There are two small hotels at Blarney village, should light luncheon be required. The distance from Cork is about nine miles. Fares by Cork and Mnskerry Light Railway (Western Road) : single, lod. and yd. ; return, 1/2 and 10 d. Thirty-five minutes’ i Ky'/f' [Dublin. W. Lawrence ,] BLARNEY CASTLE. journey. The Castle can also be reached by the Great Southern and Western Railway, but Blarney station on that line is 1^ miles distant. Fares, 1/— , 10 d., and 5 d. ; return, 1/8, 1/5, and 8d. It is of course open to any one to walk, drive, or cycle, the distance by road being about five miles. We make our way to the Western Road terminus, which stands on an island at the west end of the town (see plan). 58 BLARNEY The carriages are roomy and comfortable, and suggest trams rather than trains. Leaving the station, we run first along the roadside, having on our right the Mardyke, and presently the City Waterworks and the many-gabled Lunatic Asylum. On the left we have Queen’s College and the Male Gaol. Between Victoria Cross and Carrigrohane is passed the Model Farm, where training is given in agriculture, dairy-farming, etc. The institution has been very successful. The valley of the Lee presents here and there as we get further from the city some pretty peeps. This is notably the case as Carrigrohane, above which, high on the steep rock, is a Castle. We shortly cross the Lee, and follow its tributary, the Shournagh, a trout stream of some repute. The valley is now wider, and affords a more extensive view. Passing Healy Bridge we reach Junction, from which the main line continues westward to Coachford, gl miles distant. The principal stations on the Coachford line are at Cloghroe , near to which is Ardrum Castle ; Dripsey, a place of much picturesqueness, containing the remains of Carrignamuck Castle, a kind of companion fortress to Blarney, and said to have been built by the same lord ; and Coachford, a prettily situated village much favoured by anglers. Following the Blarney branch line we pass the wayside station at Tower Bridge, and draw up at St. Ann's, near to which is the well-known St. Ann’s Hill Hydropathic Estab- lishment, founded in 1843 by the late Dr. Barter, and entitled to be considered the precursor of the many establishments of the kind now in existence. It is picturesquely situated on a sandy soil, and, though elevated, is sheltered by wooded hills. These advantages, combined with the mildness and salubrity of the climate, have made St. Ann’s a favourite health resort. From St. Ann’s station a branch line, chiefly used for agri- cultural purposes, runs north-westward to Donoughmore, a market town some eight miles distant. The terminus of the branch line at Blarney is close to the extensive grounds attached to the castle, and it is only necessary to cross the line to gain admission. Blarney Castle. Admission tickets must be purchased at the station. Threepence each to holders of Cork and Muskerry railway tickets ; other persons sixpence each. A pleasant footpath leads in three or four minutes over a BLARNEY 59 rustic bridge to the castle. Expectations based on Milliken’s lines are not likely to be realised : — ’Tis there’s the daisy, And the sweet carnation, The blooming pink, And the rose so fair ; The daffodowndilly — Likewise the lily ; All flowers that scent The sweet, fragrant air. There’s gravel walks there, For speculation, And conversation, In sweet solitude. ’Tis there the lover May hear the dove, or The gentle plover, In the afternoon.” The attendant guide will first conduct the visitor to the Caves and the secret passages which run in all directions through the rock on which the castle stands. These subter- ranean chambers are very lofty — and occasionally very dirty — but the irrepressible memento-hunter has chipped off nearly all the stalactites and stalagmites. The caves were formerly used as prisons. Persons who prefer the light of day will at once make their way to the Keep, a square, well-preserved structure, 120 feet high, capped by machiolated battlements, which, it will be noticed do not form part of the wall, but are built out from it in a sort of staging, with the object of enabling defenders to drop stones and other trifles on to the heads of assailants. In addition to the keep, there are extensive remains of other buildings. The history of Blarney Castle might be related at great length, but the doings of MacCarthys and Desmonds in the brave days of old are not likely greatly to interest the present generation. Suffice it to say that the structure, the third on the site, dates from about 1446, and was built by the then powerful Cormack MacCarthy, surnamed Laidir, “ the strong.” Of the siege of the castle by Cromwell’s forces under Ireton we have the following picturesque account in Kipling-like verse : — “ It was now the poor boys of the Castle looked over the battle- ment wall, And they saw that ruffian, ould Cromwell, a-feeding on powder and ball, And the fellow that married his daughter, a chawing grape-shot in his jaw ; ’Twas bowld I-ray-ton they called him, and he was his brother- in-law.” The Blarney Stone is set in the parapet on the western side of the tower. The fair conductress who sells postcards and other souvenirs will not fail to point out its situation 6o BLARNEY before visitors ascend the well-worn steps to the battlements, Mr. J. O’Mahony thus pleasantly accounts for the addition of the very useful and expressive word “ blarney ” to the English language : — “ The word ‘ Blarney,’ meaning pleasant ‘ deluderin’ talk,’ is said to have originated at the court of Queen Elizabeth. McCarthy, the then chieftain over the clan of that name who resided at Blarney, was repeatedly asked to come in from * off his keeping,’ as the phrase in the State Papers goes, to abjure the system of Tanistry by which the clan elected the chief, and take tenure of his lands direct from the Crown. He was always promising with fair words and soft speech to do what was desired, but never could be got to come to the sticking point. The Queen, it is told, when one of his speeches was brought to her, said : ‘ This is all Blarney ; what he says he never means.’ ” That it is worth while to kiss the stone cannot be doubted — “ There is a stone there, whoever kisses, Oh ! he never misses to grow eloquent, ’Tis he may clamber to a lady’s chamber, Or become a Member of Parliament. A clever spouter, he’ll sure turn out, or An ’out-an’-outer’ to be let alone ; Don’t hope to hinder him, or to bewilder him, Sure he’s a pilgrim from the Blarney Stone.” The postcards which are sold showing the old style of osculatory action, with an unfortunate kisser hanging by the heels over the parapet while his alarmed companions hold him for all they are worth, may be taken as picturesque ex- aggeration. We have the best authority for saying that the stone inside the parapet will serve the purpose of the would- be spouter equally well. But to kiss even this is not so easy as it looks. You must lie on your back on the paving, grasp the iron bars between the parapet and the wall, while some- body sits on the lower part of your body to prevent over- balancing, and by a dexterous twist of the neck you will just be able, should you so desire, to impart the chaste salute. It is as well not to look down while so engaged. An excellent view over the surrounding country is obtained from the summit of the tower. The modem mansion which adjoins the castle is the residence of Sir George Colthurst, the owner of the demesne. The view extends over a rich, undulating country, intersected by the rivers Martin, Co- CORK TO YOUGHAL 6 1 mane and Shournagh. To the north-east rise the Boggerah Mountains ; and to the south, about half a mile from the castle, lies a pretty lake, “ Well stored with fishes, And comely eels in the verdant mud ; Besides good leeches, and groves of beeches All ranged in order to guard the flood.” Blarney Village will not detain the visitor long. It con- tains a couple of inns, a prettily situated church, and a pros- perous tweed factory, which visitors may usually inspect on application. IV.— YOUGHAL AND THE BLACKWATER. Youghal (pronounced Yawl), with its memories of Sir Walter Raleigh, and the lovely Blackwater are so easily reached from Cork by the Great Southern and Western Rail- way that a day, or even two, may well be devoted to them. The sailings of the river steamer from Youghal to Cappoquin are somewhat uncertain, and should be ascertained from local advertisements before starting. From Cappoquin return can be made by rail (or better still, if time permits, by road as far as Fermoy) to Mallow, and thence to Cork, completing a circular tour. If it is desired to see Mitchelstown and its famous caves, change at Fermoy. The tour may be summarised thus : Cork to Youghal by rail (27 miles), one hour ; Youghal to Cappoquin by steamer (16 miles), one and three quarter hours ; Cappoquin to Mallow by rail (36 miles) ; Mallow to Cork by rail (21 miles). Cork to Youghal by Rail. There is not much of interest in the journey from Cork to Youghal, except near the commencement, when after passing the riverside suburbs of Tivoli and Dunkettle, we skirt the northern shore of Lough Mahon (see p. 46), and have some pretty peeps down the harbour. At Queenstown Junction the main line trains proceed in a southerly direction to Queenstown, but we continue due eastward. Midleton (population 2,795), about half-way to Youghal, is a military centre, but derives its chief importance from its extensive whisky distillery and flour mills. Curran, the famous orator and statesman, was educated at the College here. Close to the distillery is the ford which Raleigh defended single- handed against Fitzgerald and his “ wild Irish rebels ” till his own troops came up. Scott alludes to the incident in Kenilworth, ch. xv. Midleton confers the title of viscount in the peerage of Ireland upon the Brodrick family. 62 YOUGHAL Youghal. Hotels and Tariffs. — See Introduction. Places of Worship, with hours of service on Sundays : — St. Mary's Protestant Church — 11.30 I St. Mary's Catholic Church — 8.0. and 6.30. 10. o, and 12.0. I Methodist — 11.30 and 7.0. The Quay, where steamers for Cappoquin start, is i| miles north from the station. ’Bus between Quay and Station, or Station and Hotel, 6 d. Steamer Fares. — -2/- and 1/4, single ; 3/- and 2/- return. Excursion fares, single, 1/6 , return, 2/-. Bicycles are carried at 1/- each. Car Fare for three persons from Station to Hotel or Steamer, 1/-. Population. — About 4,000. The town consists of a modern seaside portion, called The Strand, lying near the station and overlooking the bay, and an older portion, Youghal proper, at the foot of a hill, a mile from the station. It has an important salmon-fishery, and excellent sea-fishing may be enjoyed in the bay. The beach is admirably adapted for sea-bathing. The town received its first charter from King John, and is said to derive its name from the Irish word for yew-wood, the hills having been formerly covered with yews. It was once strongly fortified, and a large part of its walls still stand on the western and northern sides. Cromwell entered it in 1649, by the Water Gate, and for a time made the town his headquarters. On the site of the ancient South Gate now stands a structure called the Clock Gate. In Main Street is an ancient tower known as Tynte’s Castle. (It is on the right-hand side as one comes from the Clock Tower.) A few yards from this, a street on the left leads to St. Mary’s Church, occupying the site of a church which existed before the Nor- man invasion, was rebuilt by the eighth Earl of Desmond, who founded a college in connection with it in 1464, and was restored early in the seventeenth century by the “ great ” Earl of Cork.* (The college just mentioned is still standing in Nelson Street, close to the church. It was, for a time, the residence of William Congreve, the dramatist, and his father, the latter being the earl’s agent.) The massive tower of the church has a height of 50 feet, and is known as Cromwell’s * The first Earl of Cork, who arrived in Ireland in 1588, says in his autobiography : “ All my wealth was £2 7 3s. in money, a dia- mond ring, a bracelet of gold, a taffety doublet, a pair of black velvet breeches, laced and cut upon taffety, two cloaks, competent linen and necessaries/ with my rapier and dagger.” Before his death his income was at the rate of £50 a day, exclusive of the value of his houses and parks. YOUGHAL 63 Tower. The interior is very beautiful, especially the choir, which contains an east window unequalled in Ireland for size, beauty of form, and richness of glass. The roof is of dark Irish oak. In the south transept are the tomb of Earl Des- mond and his countess, and a monument to the first Earl of Cork — the “ great ” earl, as he is usually called — who is represented in a recumbent position between his two wives, while underneath are the figures of his children. W. Lawrence,] [ Dublin . MYRTLE GROVE. Adjoining the churchyard is — Myrtle Grove, which belonged to Sir Walter Raleigh, having formed part of a grant of land with which he was rewarded for repressing the rebellion of the Earl of Desmond in 1579. It was while residing here that Raleigh planted the first potatoes in Ire- land, having brought some from Virginia, and also startled his domestics by smoking tobacco. He was mayor of the 6 4 YOUGHAL TO CAPPOQUIN town in 1588-9. The house, a plain sixteenth-century struc- ture, can only be seen by permission. Just beyond the town walls, at the north end of Main Street, are the west gable of the church and a few other fragments of North Abbey, founded by a Fitzgerald in 1269. From Youghal the tourist can take the half-hourly ferry and proceed to Ardmore (6 miles), with its interesting ecclesi- astical remains (see our Guide to Waterford, etc.). Youghal to Cappoquin by Road. As an alternative to the steamer from Youghal to Cappo- quin there is the high-road which follows the left bank of the river as far as Camphire (public conveyance runs hence to Lismore). The ferry can then be taken across to Villiers- town and so to Cappoquin, or the road on the west side of the river may be kept to, though the former course is preferable. Youghal to Cappoquin by River. Having walked or driven the ij miles which separate the station at Youghal from the steamer quay, we quickly steam into the widest part of the river. The Blackwater has a length of over eighty miles, though only sixteen are navigable. It rises above Kingwilliamstown, not twenty miles from Killarney, and traverses the entire breadth of county Cork from west to east, taking a sudden turn southward at Cappo- quin. This lower reach of the river has been compared times out of number to the Rhine, but so many rivers in the British Isles have been similarly honoured that the distinction is well-nigh valueless. After passing the bridge with its five 100-feet spans, the river banks rise on either side to a considerable height. The conspicuous Rhincrew Castle, on the left, was once a precep- tory of the Knights Templars, and was founded by Raymond le Gros, a companion-in-arms of Strongbow. The steamer glides past the picturesque ruins of Temple Michael Church and Castle ; and the ruins of Molana Abbey, where Raymond le Gros lies buried. The fine modern mansion of Ballinatray next comes into sight ; then the river widens again into a lake known as the Broad of Clashmore, and we have a com- posite prospect of hills, meadows, mountains, lake and river extremely beautiful. Strancally Castle rises over the deepest part of the river, and its ivied ruins, blending with the mossy Kiu.irney' (/) THE BLACKWATER AT CAPPOQUIN. 66 YOUGHAL TO CAPPOQUIN rocks, have a peculiarly venerable and pleasing appearance. The new castle of Strancally is seen embowered in extensive woods, above which rise its lofty towers and battlements. Further on, and also overlooking the river, is Dromana Castle, environed with beautiful plantations. Here was born the Countess of Desmond, celebrated for longevity, who is said to have lived 140 years, and whose vitality was only then crushed by a fall from a tree. She was born in the reign of Edward IV, and lived far into the reign of J ames I. The tradition, preserved by the Earl of Leicester, is that her life was ended by accident. “ She must needs,” says he, “ climb a nut-tree to gather nuts ; so, falling down, she hurt her thigh, which brought a fever and that brought death.” She was the second wife of the twelfth Earl of Desmond, a family of such immense possessions and influence that it could place 5,000 or 6,000 men in the field. The Countess was personally known to Raleigh, who received a grant out of the Desmond property, which had been forfeited by the rebellion of the sixteenth earl, in 1579. Raleigh was under an obligation to plant it with English families, and we find him excusing himself for the nonfulfilment of this engagement by saying, “ There remaynes unto me but an old castle and demavne which are yet in the occupation of the old Countess of Desmond for her jointure.” Tourin Castle lies on the left bank, whilst on the right are the massive mountains of Knockmealdown, and we can dis- tinguish in the distance the spire of the abbey on Mount Melleray. From Camphire to Cappoquin is considered by many the finest part of the river. The many islets add greatly to the picturesqueness of the waterway. In the grounds attached to Affane House, a short distance up the Finish (right), Raleigh is said to have planted the first cherry tree seen in Ireland, being one that he brought from the Canary Isles. Cappoquin. The name signifies “ Conn’s tillage plot ” ( P . W. Joyce). The little town, which has a population of rather more than a thousand, is delightfully situated, the surrounding country bhng very picrturesque and containing some handsome seats. The fine species of cherry introduced by Raleigh still flourishes. Cappoquin is a good centre for anglers. Salmon-fishing can be obtained on certain conditions. Trout-fishing may be freely enjoyed within a minute’s walk of Morrissey' s Hotel. The town is also a point from which some charming excur- sions may be taken. The most important is that to — MOUNT MELLERA V 67 Mount Melleray Abbey, three and a quarter miles distant Several cars run daily from Cappoquin station on arrival of trains from Waterford and Lismore. (Fare 1/-.) The Abbey is situated about 650 feet above the level of the sea, on the southern slope of the Knockmealdown Mountains. It belongs to the Order of La Trappe, and was founded for the reception of Cistercian monks expelled from France in 1830. The inmates vary in number from seventy to eighty, and consist of choir monks and lay brothers. The former, IF. Lawrence ,] [Dublin. AT MOUNT MELLERAY. who number about thirty, dress in white, the latter in brown homespun. They lead a hard life, which they support on the simplest vegetarian fare, the severity of their rule being almost unequalled. Perpetual silence is the rule for all, but this has to be relaxed in favour of the porter, the school teachers, and any who may be obliged to speak in the trans- action of business. Visitors of the male sex are courteously shown over the monastery, and may even stay as guests for a short time free of charge. A sufficient sum should, however, be placed in 68 LISMORE CASTLE, CAPPOQVIN TO LIS MORE 69 the poor box at the door when leaving. For the accommo- dation of ladies who may be of the party there is a special guest-house opposite the monastery walls. Cappoquin to Lismore (4 miles by road or rail). The railway line crosses, half a mile west of Cappoquin station, first the Glenshelans and then the Blackwater, afford- ing charming views on the right, including one of Cappoquin House. A couple of miles further the line leaves the river. The roads between Cappoquin and Lismore are among the most beautiful in Ireland. There is one on each side of the river. That on the north runs close to the stream for a mile, and is then separated from it by meadows. It again approaches the river near the bridge over the Owennashad, a tributary of the Blackwater. Hard by is Lismore Bridge, on which the tourist should stop and look up and down the river. The view towards Lismore includes the Castle, towering above the surrounding beeches, and also the Cathedral spire. The road on the south side of the river affords most de- lightful views of the opposite and more wooded part of the valley. The tourist who makes it his choice must cross Cappoquin Bridge and then turn to the right. At the end of a mile he will be at the brink of the river, just opposite Salterbridge House, and for the next mile and a half will travel by the side of the stream. When he gets abreast of a wooded islet, he will find that the road turns to the left, while on the right is the Round Hill, an ancient stronghold formerly known by the name now borne by the neighbouring town — Lismore, the great fort. At the end of another quarter of a mile the traveller must bear to the right, and then a straight mile or so lies between him and — Lismore, a well-built market-town, occupying the summit of a steep hill, and famed for the scenery amidst which it stands, its fishing, and its castle. Lismore Castle is one of the seven seats of the Duke of Devonshire (the others are Chatsworth, Hardwick, Holker, Compton Place, Bolton Abbey, and Devonshire House, Piccadilly). On week-days it is open to visitors from 10.0 a.m. to 6.0 p.m. It occupies a magnificent situation on a wood-clad cliff rising almost perpendicularly from the water’s 70 LIS MORE CASTLE edge. Thackeray speaks of it as “ not as large, but as noble and picturesque as Warwick.” The Castle was founded in 1185 by Prince John, the son of Henry II, and four years later was almost destroyed by the natives. By whom the damage w r as repaired is unknown, but the restored building was long held by the Bishops of Lismore and served them as a residence. In 1587 it passed into the possession of Sir Walter Raleigh, and some fifteen years later w'as sold by him to Richard Boyle, afterwards first Earl of Cork, by whom it was rebuilt. In 1627 the earl’s youngest and famous son, Robert Boyle, w r as born within its w r alls. During the Civil War of the seventeenth century it was captured and burnt, but ten years after its destruction w r as rebuilt, and in 1689 gave shelter for a night to James II, when he w r as fleeing from the Boyne to Water- ford. On the death of the last Earl of Cork, in the middle of the eighteenth century, it became the property of the fourth Duke of Devonshire through his marriage with the earl’s daughter, and was practically rebuilt by the sixth duke. At the eastern angle of the river front is the Tow r er of King James, so called from its having afforded brief shelter to that sovereign. In the rear of this is King John’s Tow r er, said to have been the scene of the first parliament held in Ireland under the presidency of that prince. At the western angle of the river face rises the Carlisle Tower, named after the Earl of Carlisle, Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland in the middle of the nineteenth century, by whom the foundation stone w r as laid. The drawdng-room is renowned for the loveliness of the view from the great bay wdndow. Lismore Cathedral (Church of Ireland) is mostly of seven- teenth century work, the “ great ” Earl of Cork having ex- pended a large sum upon it, but the spire is more modern ; while, on the other hand, some of the pillars in the nave belong to the thirteenth century. It stands on a height to the east of the town, and is chiefly remarkable for its in- scribed slabs of ancient date. The cyclist or motorist who makes his way from — Lismore to Fermoy by Road (16 miles), views much beautiful scenery that cannot be seen from the line. The way out of Lismore is by the bridge over the Black w'ater. At 3J miles from Lismore is the Bridge of Ballysaggartmore, near which, on the southern side of the LIS MO RE TO FERMOY 7i river, is Glencairn Abbey, in a charming demesne open to visitors. The monks’ cells are still to be seen in a portion of the building that rises perpendicularly from the brink of the river. About a mile farther the ruined Castle of Ballyduff may be seen on the southern bank. The river is crossed close to the castle, and the traveller must then turn to the right. Rather more than a mile from the bridge he will pass Ballyduff Station, while another mile will bring him abreast of the ruins of Mocollop Castle, with the adjacent modern residence, on the northern side of the river, and a little beyond that he will pass under the line, which runs between the high-road and the river for the next 3^ miles. When that distance has been traversed he will again go under the line, and will see Kilmurry House on the opposite bank. After passing Clondulane Station, the road once more crosses the line, and then the ruin of Carrigabrick Castle, by the side of the river, comes in sight. Lismore to Fermoy by Rail. The line runs on the southern side of the Blackwater. About a mile from Ballyduff station are the ruins of Mocollop Castle. Beyond Clondulane the country is prettily wooded, and the scenery is particularly beautiful at the spot where the line crosses the Blackwater near the ruins of Carriga- brick Castle. Fermoy is pleasantly situated on the Blackwater, and contains nearly seven thousand inhabitants, besides the troops, both infantry and cavalry, quartered in the large barracks. Being comparatively modern, there is little in the town to interest the tourist, but it is a good centre for anglers, and, having railway communication with Mitchelstown, about ten miles to the north, is a convenient spot from which to visit the celebrated caves and castle (see our Guide to Waterford). The caves are smaller than the Peak Cavern, but are richer than it in stalactites. They are more exten- sive than Cox’s Cave at Cheddar but less beautiful. A low narrow passage gives place to a tunnel of ampler dimen- sions, leading to a large, circular chamber called the House of Commons. Near this another passage leads past a number of fluted musical columns, appropriately named the “ Organ,” to the House of Lords, a capacious and well-lighted cavern containing many beautiful and fantastic formations. From the House of Commons access is obtained to Sadleir’s Cave, containing an immense stalactite that has been humorously n fermOy to mallow named “Lot’s wife,” and thence to Kingston Hall, a very remarkable tent-like cavity. The above are the portions usually visited, the time occupied being about an hour. 1 he exploration of the whole of the accessible caverns would take six or seven times as long. Fermoy to Mallow. Most people will prefer to train this portion of the route, as, although pretty, it cannot compare with the road between Cappoquin and Fermoy. A number of castles and seats are passed, but the only one calling for remark is Convamore, the seat of Lord Listowel, near Ballyhooley. Mallow is described on p. 14. For the journey from Mallow to Cork (21 miles) and Killarney (41 miles), see p. 15. AN ICE-ROUNDED SANDSTONE BLUFF AT LOO BRIDGE. MILLAEMT JI-iAirCKSj. Castleloiu/lv 3 ay Black lake j KILLARNEY AND THE LAKES. W HEN, on arriving at the railway station, the tourist hears the guard call out “ Killarney,” he probably imagines that he has only to put his head out of the carriage window and look down on the celebrated lakes. The word is suggestive of a bewitching vista of blue hills, placid lakes, sparkling streams, and romantic waterfalls ; and it is with no little disappointment that we discover the fact that the nearest lake is a mile away. But, as we go to our hotel, we see the summits of distant mountains, high as the clouds, like banners of hope hung out to greet us ; and behold a lustrous brightness in every leaf and a verdant sheen on every spear of grass. Killarney is a small market town, 186 miles south-west of Dublin, forty north of Cork, and twenty-one to the south- east of Tralee. It is the property of the Earl of Kenmare, and contains some good streets, though a few of the thorough- fares are narrow and old-fashioned. Its prosperity is mainly dependent on the influx of visitors during the summer and autumn. Boot factories give employment to a number of men, and recently the establishment of two rug and carpet factories has given employment to a considerable number of girls. The town is governed by an Urban Council. The water supply is brought in pipes from the Devil’s Punch Bowl, near the summit of Mangerton. The sewage system was entirely remodelled in 1896, and is now perfect, pipes having been substituted for the old built sewers and the outfall removed over a mile from the nearest house. The town is lighted both by gas and electricity. It is very healthy, zymotic and lung diseases being practically unknown. An authority already quoted says : *“ The climate is remark- ably mild and equable. During the early spring months an invalid convalescing from an attack of serious illness would * Irish Health Resorts and Watering Places. Dr. Edgar Flinn, Fellow and Member of Council of the British Institute of Public Health. 73 74 KILLARNEY derive great benefit from a residence at Killarney, the place being well sheltered and protected from harsh winds.” The Parish Church of St. Mary (Church of Ireland) is a handsome edifice in the Early English style, built in 1868. The interior is richly decorated. The Catholic Cathedral (St. Mary’s), designed by Pugin, is a building of magnificent pro- portions, containing a fine organ. It is cruciform in shape, with a massive square central tower. The Bishop’s Palace adjoins. The Franciscan Friary and Church stand in orna- mental grounds near the railway station. There are also Presbyterian and Methodist Churches. There are three Con- W. Lawrence ,] Dublin. THE CATHOLIC CATHEDRAL. vents (Sisters of Mercy, Presentation, and Loretto), also a Presentation Monastery, each with schools attached. The Diocesan Seminary of St. Brendan is close to the Cathedral. The girl pupils of the Convents of Mercy and the Presenta- tion excel in the making of Irish lace and art needlework, and visitors are always welcome to see the work in progress, and mayhap to purchase some as a souvenir. The proceeds are devoted to the maintenance of the schools and to charity. There is also a School of Arts and Crafts, endowed by Vis- count and Lady Castlerosse for the benefit of the artisan population. The Club House is in New Street ; visitors have KILLARNEY 7 5 the privilege of entry on the introduction of a member. The Total Abstinence Society occupies a spacious building, which visitors may view. The County Lunatic Asylum, standing on the high ground to the north of the town, commands an uninterrupted view of the splendid scenery of the district. These, with the pretentious castellated Police Barracks, the Courthouse, the Town Hall, and the Union Workhouse com- plete the list of public buildings. The private residences in the vicinity of Killarney are numerous and worthy of their unrivalled environment. Kil- larney House, the magnificent Irish home of the Earl of Kenmare, adorns the crest of a hill at the west end of the town, surrounded by its splendid demesne and park of vast extent, skirting the Lower Lake. In the exquisite Italian gardens of the house a flower show is annually held, under the presidency of the Countess of Kenmare. The Annual Fete, under the auspices of the Gaelic League, is also held in the grounds. Muckross House (the seat of Lord Ardilaun), an Elizabethan mansion in white Portland stone, overlooks the Middle Lake, and is close to Muckross Abbey. The grounds are nearly 800 acres in extent. Here Queen Victoria and the Prince Consort were entertained on their visit to the lakes in 1861. Flesk Castle and Southhill House occupy elevated positions a little to the south of the town. From the battlements of the former an extensive view of the lakes may be obtained. Lake View House and Aghadoe House are situated on the western shore of the Lower Lake, and Caher- nane House at its north-eastern end. The picturesque Park House takes its name from the Deer Park in which it stands, embowered in magnificent and aged trees. The grounds of all these residences are laid out with admirable taste and command delightful prospects. In recent years also a num- ber of pretty villas have been erected in the neighbourhood of the town. Killarney was visited in 1897 by the present Prince and Princess of Wales, who were delighted with the beauties of the lakes. It was suggested at the time that Killarney would form an ideal spot for a royal residence. Indeed, it is believed that negotiations were actually entered into for the purchase of Muckross House. Hotels. A point on which the British tourist will probably feel KILLARNEY j6 some anxiety is that of the provision for domestic comfort during his stay at Killarney. He need, however, entertain no misgiving. Possibly no touring district in the kingdom, certainly none in Ireland, is so well furnished in respect of hotel accommodation as Killarney, and the hotels are of all classes, suitable to the taste and means of every condition of visitor, from the luxurious establishments catering for the wealthy to the more modest but comfortable hostelries patronised by the visitor of moderate means. We quote again from Dr. Edgar Flinn’s admirable publication : “ The hotel accommodation at Killarney is of the very highest order, and in point of comfort and good management cannot be excelled. This is one of the principal reasons why a sojourn at Killarney is so thoroughly enjoyable ; one can always depend on being supplied with the best essentials of home comfort, coupled with a good cuisine, after the day’s sightseeing.” In the height of the season it is prudent to secure rooms in advance. We give below a list of the hotels in Killarney, and further information concerning the best of them may readily be obtained from the advertisement pages. For tariffs, ^^Introduction. The Great Southern Hotel is within two minutes’ walk of the Railway Station, and is approached by a private covered way. It is situated in its own extensive grounds, which adjoin Lord Kenmare’s deer park. The Royal Victoria Hotel is beautifully situated on the northern shore of the Lower Lake. Its grounds extend to the water’s edge. The Lake Hotel stands at the head of a small inlet of Castle- lough Bay, the eastern portion of the Lower Lake. It is within a few yards of the water’s edge and is surrounded by beautifully-kept grounds. The Muckross Hotel is close to the entrance to the Muckross demesne, at the foot of Mangerton. O’Sullivan’s Hotel adjoins the Muckross. The Lake View commands an extensive view of the Lower and Middle Lakes. The Glebe Hotel I are conveniently near to the Railway and f Station and centrally situated for the The Killarney Hotel j scenery. The Commercial Hotel is adjacent to the last-named. The Park Place Hotel is within view of the Deer Park and close to the town. The Home Farm Hotel overlooks the Earl of Kenmare’s Home Park. 77 ARBUTUS ISLAND, UPPER LAKE. ;8 KILLARNEY The Innisfallen Hotel is in Main Street, opposite the Pro- testant Parish Church ; and The Imperial Hotel, in College Street, faces the Glebe and Killarney Hotels. Private lodgings, as a rule less expensive than hotels, may readily be obtained in the town and neighbourhood. The local Tourist Association will be glad to supply further information as to the above and other hotels and boarding- houses in the district. Postal Arrangements. — The Post Office in New Street is open : On week-day 7.0 a.m. to 8.0 p.m. ; Sundays, 7.0 to 10. o a.m. and 4.30 to 6.0 p.m. Telegrams : Week-days, 8.0 a.m. to 8.0 p.m. ; Sundays, 8.0 to 10. o a.m. and 4.30 to 6.0 p.m. Mails made up for Dublin and England : Week-days, 2.15 and 8.15 p.m. ; Sundays at latter hour only. Places of Worship. — Church of Ireland. — Parish Church of St. Mary : Services: Sundays, 11.30 a.m. and 7.0 p.m. ; Church holidays, 11.30 a.m ; Fridays, 8.0 p.m. All seats free and unappropriated. The church is open daily, 12.0 to 6.0 o’clock. Holy Trinity, Muckross : Sundays, 11.30 a.m. and 4.0 p.m. Aghadoe : Sundays, 11.30 a.m. Presbyterian : Sundays, 11.30 a.m. and 7.0 p.m. Methodist : Sundays, 11.30 a.m. ; Thursdays, 8.0 p.m. Roman Catholic. — St. Mary's Cathedral : Sundays and holidays, 7.0, 8.0, and 10.30 a.m., 12.0 noon, and 7.30 p.m. ; Wednesdays, 8.0 p.m. ; Fridays, 7.30 p.m. Holy Trinity ( Franciscan ) : Sundays and holidays, 6.0, 7.15, and 9.0 a.m. and 4.0 p.m. ; week-days, 6.39, 7.0, and 8.0 a.m. ; Tuesdays and Fridays, 7.45 p.m. Banks. — There are two banks — the Munster and Leinster Bank in Main Street, and the National Bank in New Street. Amusements. Besides the delightful excursions from the town, with which we shall deal at length directly, visitors and inhabi- tants alike are well provided with the means of keeping dull care at a distance. Excellent Golf Links, consisting of nine holes, in a course two and a half miles long, have been laid out in Lord Kenmare’s Park ; and a Golf Club, of which his lordship and all the resident gentry are members, has been established. Visitors are admitted on payment of a small fee. The local Lawn Tennis Club possess some first-rate courts, and visitors to the town can obtain permission to play. A Croquet Lawn is attached. In addition, there is a Lawn Tennis and Cricket Ground, admission to which is readily obtainable, on the banks of the Flesk, scarcely half a mile from the centre of the town. Fishing in the lakes is free to any visitor who chooses to provide himself with a salmon license, which costs twenty shillings. The best fish- W. Lawrence,] MIDDLE LAKE AND So KILLARNEY ing season is in March, April and May. The close season commences in November, and ends in January. The boat- men generally take out a license, which they have, or assume to have, the privilege of transferring to the tourist who employs them and their boats. There is a Racecourse in a natural amphitheatre near Killarney, where a meeting is held once a year ; and the Regatta on the Lower Lake is one of the features of the season. These, with billiard rooms for the employment of a wet day, effectually remove all fears of ennui from the minds of visitors to Killarney. Cycling and Motoring. 1 The roads in the vicinity are well laid out and maintained in good condition for cycling. All dangerous hills or turnings are marked with danger posts. Within a radius of twenty miles of Killarney it is possible to secure light refreshments at roadside houses. Some suggested routes are outlined on pages 124-7. The Excursions are, however, as they should be, the visitors’ chief amuse- ment. The railway lines to Kenmare and Valentia have added considerably to the attractions of the district in this respect, for they afford the tourist facilities for visiting the beautiful coast of Kerry easily and economically. Public coaches run daily, in the season, between Cahirciveen and Kenmare and between Killarney and Kenmare, forming a connection with the train services. In order thoroughly to enjoy the various excursions, it is by far the best plan to arrange with the manager of one of the hotels for guides, cars, boats, etc., or to join the parties which he gets up. Cars. The car fares are regulated by bye-laws, and all the hackney carriages are numbered for purposes of identification. The drivers also wear numbered badges and carry books, which they are bound to show on demand, specifying the fares to all places in the district. A set-down within the town, 1 or 2 persons . . -/6 3 or 4 „ . . if- KILLARNEY By time. One-horse carriages : First hour i or 2 persons .. 2/- „ 3 or 4 „ . • 3/- Every half-hour afterwards, 1 or 2 ,, . • 1/- „ „ 3 or 4 ,, 1/6 Two-horse carriages, carrying eight or more persons, charged double the foregoing. The following is a list of the charges for the principal drives, calculated for one-horse carriages, double being charged for pair-horse wagonettes : — * To the Gap of Dunloe and from Ross Castle . . . 10/- * To the Gap of Dunloe, from Ross Castle, and through the West Demesne . . . • • .12/6 Round Ross Island . . . . • • 4/ _ To Mulgrave Police Station, on Kenmare Road, and back . . . . . . • • 9/~ To Muckross Abbey, through the Demesne and Dinas Island, and return by Tore Waterfall . . . 8/- Through the Earl of Kenmare’s Home Park . • 3/6 To Carran Tual Mountain, waiting and return . . 11/6 To Mangerton, waiting and return . . . 9 l~ Through the Earl of Kenmare’s Deer Park . . 4/6 Through Lord Kenmare’s Deer Park, Aghadoe Ruins, West Demesne, round Ross Island, and return . 9/- To Ross Castle . . . . . . • 2/3 To Aghadoe Ruins and back . . . . .4/6 To Muckross Abbey, through Demesne, Dinas Island, and Mulgrave Police Station, and back . . 11/6 Through Ross Island and the West Park . . • 6/6 Through Ross Island, West Park, and Deer Park . 8/- Through Lord Kenmare’s West Park and return . . 5/6 *To Muckross Abbey, through Demesne and Dinas Island, to the Tunnel on Kenmare Road, Derri- cunnihy, and from Ross Castle Quay . . • 10/6 *Through Lord Kenmare’s. Deer Park, Aghadoe Ruins, West Demesne, and from Library Quay in Ross Island . . . . . . . 9/- Boats must be used in connection with the routes marked thus,*. But it must be remembered that the visitor has the option, at the termination of the journey, of paying by time. When business is not very brisk cars may be secured by agreement for much lower fares than the foregoing. Distances. The following table of distances (furnished by the County Surveyor of Kerry) from Killarney to the chief places of interest will be of use to the tourist Killarney (g) 82 KILLARNEY Miles. Miles. Muckross Abbey . . 2f Tunnel on Kenmare Road. 6^ Tore Cascade .... 4^ Lord Brandon’s Cottage . 3I Derrycunnihy Cottage . y\ Beaufort Bridge . . . 5| Gap of Dunloe (Kate Rear- Mulgrave Police Barracks . 10 ney’s Cottage) . y\ Ross Castle if „ French’s Cottage . 9^ Ruins of Aghadoe 3^ Boat Fares. Pair-oared boats, with one boatman : First hour . 1/6 „ ,, Every subsequent half-hour . . -/6 „ „ with two boatmen, 2/6 and ~/g respectively. Boats may be hired by the day at 10/6 for a pair-oared boat and 21/- for a four-oared boat. The tourist will gene- rally find it most economical, however, to leave all arrange- ments as to boats and cars to the hotel manager. Guides and Ponies. It is better, for many reasons, that the tourist should employ a guide to show him over the mountain passes and through the woods. They usually receive 5/- per day. Ponies may be hired from 6/- to 3/6 per day, according to the demand. Heights of Mountains. Feet. Feet. Carr an Tual • 3 > 4 X 4 Tomies . . 2,413 Mangerton , . 2,756 Tore .... . . 1,764 Purple Mountain • 2,739 Eagles’ Nest 1,103 Sizes of Lakes. Greatest Length. Greatest Width. Area. Miles. Miles. Statute Acres. Lower Lake • 5 i 3 5,001 Middle Lake 2 1 680 Upper Lake 2f 430 Long Range 3 f — 120 The elevations of the loughs above the sea are : — Feet Feet. Devil’s Punch Bowl . 2,206 Cushvalley • • 337 Cum-Meen-Na-Copasta 2,156 Guittane . . . 256 Gouragh . 1,226 Coom-a-Dhuv 197 Callee 1,096 Upper Lake . . . 70 Black Lough • • 587 Lower Lake . . . 66 83 GENERAL VIEW OF THE LAKES FROM THE KENMARE ROAD. 8 4 KILLARNEY The Lakes. The chief attraction of the district is the beautiful scenery surrounding the famous lakes, which are three in number, known respectively as the Upper ; the Middle, or Tore ; and the Lower, or more properly Lough Leane. The lakes are connected by a tortuous stream, called the Long Range, which winds in and out in the most pleasant manner. The lakes are fed by a number of mountain streams, their surplus water being discharged by the river Laune, which flows from the south-west corner of the Lower Lake to Castlemaine Harbour, on the coast of Kerry. The Long Range was ad- mitted by Sir Walter Scott to be finer than anything in his beloved Scottish lake district. The head of the Lower Lake and the whole of the other two are surrounded by high mountains and scenery of the most romantic nature ; and after exploring the lakes as recommended in the following pages, we believe most tourists will agree with Thackeray when he pronounces them “ too handsome.” If the visitor is pressed for time and does not fear fatigue, he may, by “ galloping over the lakes in one day,” get a glimpse of their more prominent features. To do so, he may proceed by Aghadoe ; visit Dunloe Castle, and ascend Carran Tual, descending by the Black Valley ; and return by boat through the lakes. Or he may proceed back through the Gap of Dunloe, and home by Lord Brandon’s Cottage, Derry- cunnihy, Eagles’ Nest, Tore and Muckross. Another one day excursion is by Aghadoe, Beaufort Bridge, through the Pass of Dunloe, and back by water from the head of the Upper Lake, visiting Dinish Island, O’Sullivan’s Cascade, Innisfallen and Ross. But though it is better to take a few tantalising glances at the lakes than not to visit Killarney at all, at least a week should, if practicable, be spent there ; and those who are able to stay for that time will be able to vary the excursions as the weather may render desirable.* For the convenience of such visitors, we append a programme of excursions, which will enable them to visit everything worth seeing within a considerable radius of the town. The first five excursions exhaust the district of the lakes ; the sixth and * The hotel-keepers have arranged a series of excursions which by somewhat hard work, enable their guests to see the chief features of the district in three days. SUGGESTED TOURS 85 following days will enable those who may be inclined to visit the wild and grand scenery of the Kerry coast an oppor- tunity of gratifying their desire : — First Day. — Muckross Abbey and Demesne ; DinishJIsland ; Meeting of the Waters ; Old Weir Bridge ; Eagles’ Nest ; the White Deer ; the Tunnel ; Queen’s Cottage ; Derrycunnihy Cascade ; Mulgrave Police Barracks, and view from the point above it ; return by Tore Waterfall. Second Day. — Ascend either Mangerton or Carran Tual : the latter is the higher and more difficult. Third Day. — Lower Lake ; Ross Island and Castle ; Innis- fallen Island and Abbey ; O’Sullivan’s Cascade ; Bay of Glena. Fourth Day. — Aghadoe and Gap of Dunloe ; Turnpike and Black Valley ; Logan Stone ; Upper Lake ; Long Range ; Eagles’ Nest ; Muckross or Middle Lake. Fifth Day . — Glenflesk ; Labig Owen and Druidical remains at Lissivigeen ; Kenmare Demesne ; Lord Kenmare’s West Park and Demesne ; Ross Island, and the Deer Park. Sixth and Following Days. — Revisit favourite spots or pro- ceed to Cahirciveen, Valentia Island, Waterville, etc., return- ing by coach to Kenmare. In the following pages all needful directions are given for each excursion. FIRST DAY. Muckross Abbey and Demesne — Dinish Island — Meeting of the Waters — Old Weir Bridge — Eagles’ Nest — The White Deer — The Tunnel — Queen’s Cottage — Derrycunnihy Cas- cade — Mulgrave Police Station, and view from the point above it — Return by Tore Waterfall. T AKING our seats on an excursion brake, or a jaunting car, we jog smoothly and merrily along to Muckross, two and a half miles south of Killarney. The hotels here afford excellent quarters, and the village is frequently selected by tourists as headquarters, as it is close to Muckross Abbey and Demesne, and within walking distance of Tore Waterfall and Dinish Island. The lakelet at the back of the hotel afforded his Majesty and party some good fishing on the occasion of his visit as Prince of Wales, but it is by no means certain that it will be equally kind to more humble anglers. The little church of Killagey, on an eminence hard by, enjoys the reputation of being the smallest in the kingdom. We alight at Muckross to visit all that is left of — Muckross Abbey, which occupies the site of the old-world Church of Irrelagh (a name meaning “ the building on the lough ”), burned somewhere about 1192. The present ruins, however, are old enough in all conscience, the Abbey, which was inhabited by Franciscan friars, having been founded in 1340 by the MacCarthys, princes of Desmond. There are the remains of the church, 100 feet long, consisting of choir, nave and transept. The breadth of the choir is about 25 feet, and the transept is 35 feet in length. In the centre is a strong square tower. The transept is united to the nave by a lofty arch ; on the opposite side a narrow doorway leads to the cloisters, the best preserved and most interesting part of the structure. The buildings form a square of 36 feet. MUCK ROSS 87 surrounded by an arcade, consisting of twelve semicircular arches on the east and south sides, and ten pointed ones on the west and north. The arcade lights a corridor about five feet in width. The arches and pillars are of grey marble. In the centre of the square a magnificent yew-tree spreads its great branches. Its venerable associations and picturesque situation make this ruin one of the most imposing and re- markable places near Killarney. Adjoining the cloister were the apartments of the friars. A beautiful doorway forms T.Healy ,] [Killarney. DOORWAY, MUCKROSS ABBEY. the entrance to the nave ; and the great oriel window of the choir is seen through the Gothic arch which pierces the tower or belfry. The window is divided into four lights by interlaced mullions. The gable is densely shrouded with ivy, and the floor thickly strewn with graves, the most noted of which, although one of the least ostentatious, is that of MacCarthy More. In the vault beneath also rest the ashes of O’Donoghue, and the visitor will read the lines graven on the monument : — 88 MUCK ROSS ' What more could Homer’s most illustrious verse Or pompous Tully’s stately prose rehearse, Thau that this monumental stone contains, In death's embrace, McCarthy More’s remains ? Hence, reader, learn the sad and certain fate That waits on man — spares not the great; And while this venerable marble calls 1 Thy patriot tear, perhaps, that trickling falls, MUCKROSS ABBEY. MUCK ROSS 89 And bids thy thoughts to other days return, And with the spark of Erin’s glory burn, While to her fame some grateful tributes flow ; Oh ! ere you turn, one warmer drop bestow — If Erin’s chiefs deserve thy generous tear, Heir of their worth, O’Donoghue, lies here.” This was also the place of sepulture of the O’Sullivans More, once among the proudest chiefs in Kerry, whose graves, and those of many other stalwart leaders, he unnoticed in the rank vegetation that carpets Muckross. The Abbey is not without some stately modern monu- ments ; yet their beauty appears out of place amidst such mouldering desolation. The graves of the peasantry lie in many a grassy heap on the south side, and some of the cut stones have been taken from its walls to mark them. Muckross Demesne, in which the Abbey stands, was purchased in 1900 by Lord Ardilaun for £ 60 , 000 . The grounds occupy a peninsula, about a mile and a half wide, and are laid out in walks and gardens of romantic beauty. An excursion through the grounds is a source of considerable pleasure. The Ladies’ Walk, along the shores of the lake, affords one of the choicest rambles in Killarney ; yet it is surpassed by another, ex- tending by the borders of Muckross Lake for about two miles. From this we have sublime views of Mangerton and Tore Mountains and the many exquisite islands in the lake. The demesne is considered by many to be, in respect to natural scenery, the finest in the kingdom. The visitor must not fail to see the “ Royal Family,” a group of young trees one of which was planted by Queen Victoria. Quitting the demesne and returning to our car, we pro- ceed through the peninsula of Muckross, The road now runs over Brickeen Bridge to Brickeen Island, which is joined to Dinish Island by another bridge. On Dinish Island is a neat Cottage, where visitors can obtain tea and light refreshments. Here we leave the car to follow on foot a little path by the cottage, which brings us to a spot where can be obtained a view of Old Weir Bridge and the famous “ Meeting of the Waters.” Mounting once more, we still keep Tore Lake on the left until we reach the main road leading to the Long Range and the Upper Lake. Do not omit to ask the driver to THE TUNNEL— DERRYCUNNIHY point out the White Deer ; though whether you ask or not, he is almost sure to call attention to it. Seen from the car, there appears a very fair outline of a white deer in a crouching position ; so accurately delineated is the figure that you are led to believe it must have been cut in relief out of the rock. Further on. we come to — The Tunnel, an arch cut through an enormous rock, under which the road passes. From the top one of the finest views of the Upper Lake is obtained. The background to this picture is formed by the rugged summits of the Reeks — Carran Tual rising like a dome above the crowded panorama ; while before us are the Black Valley and the entrance to the Gap of Dunloe. Opposite is the Doogary River, and we see its waters flashing down the furrows of the Purple Mountain. Every description of scenery meets the eye. There are pre- cipices crowned with pines ; naked rocks, rent, seamed and broken, jut darkly into the waters ; and there are precipitous slopes strewn with detached masses of rock, bald and barren, or covered with purple heather or fresh sward. There are islands clad with foliage, and winding shores lined with evergreens, alternating with stately forest-trees. About a mile further on, we cross the Galways River, close to the Derrycunnihy Cascade. To visit it, we take a bye- path ; and long before seeing the fall hear its reverberations. Surrounded by some of the choicest scenery in Killarney, the cataract is exceedingly fine. It plunges down a deep mountain chasm, amid rocks which tear the waters into torrents that fall shivering on to lower rocks. Pat will not fail to show the visitor the footmarks in the Rock of Derrycunnihy, tending to corroborate his assertion that a chief of that name leaped across the fall. Similar footmarks graven on rocks are frequently seen all over Ireland. Spenser considered that they were boundary marks, where, standing on the stone, the chiefs were sworn to pre- serve all the ancient customs of the country. Here we find another of the picturesque cottages (of which there are three in the lake district) erected by Lord Kenmare to entertain the royal party on the occasion of Queen Victoria’s visit in 1 86 1 . The picturesque Mulgrave Police Barracks are about half KILLARNEY TO KEN MARE 9i a mile west of the fall. Passing the police station, we ascend a point a little to the right in order to enjoy the splendid view it commands. This is the farthest point of our day’s jaunt. A beautiful diversion can be obtained by turning to the left from the coach-road at Galway’s Bridge and taking the path direct to the top of the mountain. It crosses two streams by fording- stones, and then commences to ascend in zigzag fashion. From IV. Lawrence ,] [ Dublin . TUNNEL ON THE KENMARE ROAD. the top a view can be obtained which is equal to that from Man- gerton, whilst the road is easily accessible to ladies and inexperienced climbers. Southward lies Kenmare Bay, and northward, or more correctly north-westward, the whole stretch of Killarney lakes can be seen, with Carran Tual and the Purple Mountains to the left. The road drops straight into Kenmare, but it is rather hard walk- ing, as the decline is very sharp. For those who are staying in Killarney it would be an excellent day’s work to take coach or car to Galway’s Bridge, walk over the ridge (having lunch al fresco ) , proceed to Kenmare, and return by the evening train. The return to Killarney is made by way of — Q2 THE TORC CASCADE The Tore Cascade. Bordering the road are some of the finest fir-trees in the district ; tall, stately trunks whose branches spread and interlace. As we approach the fall, its sullen roar breaks on the ear, increasing in intensity as we proceed from the T. W. Shiels,] [Dublin. THE TORC CASCADE. main road up the little path which leads to it. The fall is concealed by trees and evergreens until we are close upon it, when through a vista in the leafy screen it bursts on the eye in all its beauty, plunging with terrific force down a MANGERTON 93 rock some 60 feet in height. It is best seen, of course, immediately after showery weather. The first bound is in a broad, unbroken sheet ; then it divides and leaps from rock to rock in tumultuous grandeur, foaming and wreath- ing, boiling and surging, uniting and again dividing, until it finds its way through a dark, narrow gorge to the lake. A winding path leads to the top, from whence we look down on this chaos of waters. The water-worn, precipitous rocks we ascend are shadowed with the foliage of the arbutus, studded with velvet moss and sprayed with trembling ferns. From the summit of the rock the Middle and Lower Lakes are seen, with their guardian mountains and winding shores, their fairy islands resting like swans upon the water. Like many things of beauty, the Tore is capricious. Often the waters flow as a mere glistening streamlet among the dark rocks, but when Tore wreathes his head in clouds and thunder- storms prevail the sublimity of* the cascade is revealed. Visitors to the Tore may be warned that drivers of cars are sometimes in so great a hurry that they do not encourage the tourist to continue to the top of the fall. In this case one of the finest sights in Ireland is missed, as the full beauty of the cascade cannot be seen from any other point. With the single exception of the upper waterfall at Glenariff in County Antrim, the Tore is the finest cascade in the country. SECOND DAY. Ascend either Mangerton or Carran Tual. No other excursion will give the tourist so precise an idea of the topography of Killarney as that which we recommend him to undertake on the second day of his stay. The Ascent of Mangerton. It saves trouble to take a guide, but the path is fairly plain. The less robust members of the party will do well to hire ponies. The distance to the summit from Killarney is about seven miles. Soon after leaving the town, we cross the Flesh , which flows into the Lower Lake at Castlelough Bay. The road is bordered by high walls, which shut in the view of the lakes, until we reach Muckross. Our road branches to the east, by O’Sullivan’s Hotel, and so continues for nearly a mile, when it again turns southward, and in another mile 04 MANGERTON and a half reaches a stream and gives place to a mere path- It is usual and much safer to leave the ponies here and to ascend to the top on foot. About a mile on, the tourist comes in sight of Lough Gulttana, a considerable lake, singu- larly lovely, with three small islands on it. The mountain now becomes bleak and rugged, but, as we proceed, more and more interesting, the views increasing in grandeur with every foot of elevation. After some tough climbing, we arrive at the curious lake which goes by the name of the Devil’s Punch Bowl. It is a tarn almost a quarter of a mile long, deep down in a dark gorge, and looking from the great overhanging steeps almost as black as ink. The water is cold as ice, and as unrippled as if it were really frozen over. No fish are found in it, though they are plentiful in the stream that flows out of it. The echo is fine, but rather peculiar ; it seems to ring round and round, as it bounds and rebounds from rock to rock. The Devil’s Punch Bowl is said to have no bottom — at least, the bottom has never been fathomed. Charles James Fox had the temerity to swim right round the tarn when on a visit to the Earl of Kenmare in 1772. By the time the ordnance mark on the summit is in sight, the path becomes less difficult, for we tread on a peaty soil. At the mound we are 2,756 feet above the sea, and a glorious panorama rewards our exertions. Away to the east, the Boggerah Mountains and the Paps loom cloud-like and blue ; far on the north, the river Shannon is just discernible, and nearer rise the Slieve Miskisli Mountains ; on the. west we view the rocky ranges of Iveragh, Dingle Bay and the Ken- mare Fiord ; southward we see the distant Caha Mountains that shadow Glengariff and rise over Bantry Bay. But nearer there are greater charms of scenery, for the three lakes lie at our feet, and we overlook their fairy islands. The town seems but a stone’s-throw away, and we can trace the roads that converge to it for many a mile into the country. Like silver threads, we see the streams and rivers running amongst verdant meadows, with the gem like sheen of the arbutus bowers that gird the glancing lakes ; higher, is a darker zone of tasselled pines. The Macgillycuddy Reeks stand out in all their magnificence, Carran Tual like a mon- arch proudly overtopping all. Nearer yet, the Purple Moun- tain and the Tomies rear their peaks ; and closer still are the Drooping Mountain and Tore. MANGERTON 95 It is usual to return by the same route ; but under proper guidance several variations may be made. On our way down we may turn aside to visit the Horse s Glen, a chaotic pit surmounted by perpendicular rocks, con- taining another of those cold black lakes. Except by one narrow entrance the Glen is inaccessible. During the descent, our face is towards the north, and all the beauties of the lakes are mapped before us. If time allows, a detour may be made by way of the Queen’s Drive to Tore Cascade. The drive lies along the breast of Manger- W. Lawrence ,] [ Dublin • THE DEVIL’S PUNCH BOWL. ton. It was laid out by Mr. Herbert of Muckross for Queen Victoria, was then re-closed, but was appropri- ately reopened to commemorate the Diamond Jubilee. On page 9 1 we give an alternative route, not so high or so difficult of ascent as Mangerton, but from which a very fine view, similar to that just described, can be obtained. Undoubtedly, the finest descent from Mangerton is on the Kenmare side, by persevering along the path until a good C ARRAN TUAL 9 6 road is seen winding round the base of the peak itself. From this road to Kenmare the distance is about four miles. Our plan gives readers the alternative of an — Ascent of Carran Tual and we will now describe that excursion. Though the view from the summit is not grander than that from Mangerton, the climb is perhaps a greater favourite with tourists, for Carran Tual is 600 feet higher than Mangerton. The King, during his visit to Killarney in 1858, went up Carran Tual ; and we will follow in the steps of royalty and order our ponies to the foot of the mountain, early enough, however, to allow them a good rest there, for it is fifteen miles from Killarney. The road leads away by the northern shore of the Lower Lake, crosses the river Laune east of Dunloe Castle, passes the entrance to the Gap, and gradually winds amongst the mountains. We have Carran continually in sight ; and judging distance by the eye alone, should never suppose it so far away. At the base of the mountain, about five miles from the top, we reach a cottage built for the accommodation of visitors ; and here our ponies await us. All the guides of the place assert their exclusive right to “ show the gintleman up,” and to tell him the legends. It is better to hire one or two of these wild, hardy, ragged fellows ; though they may be in rags they will not covet the coat they are entrusted to carry, nor, however hungry, will they disturb the viands confided to their care. We now commence the ascent, the shock-headed guides, laden with coats and knapsacks and armed with cudgels, leading. The path is not difficult, though rugged in places, and strewn with coarse stones. Continuing for about three miles, we reach an exceedingly lonely glen, whence the moun- tain rises almost precipitously, and makes it necessary for us to dismount. This is called the Hag’s Glen, and here are two gloomy lakelets where the hag is said to bathe and wash her clothes. The guide will show one of her teeth, and point out her chair and her crutch — all fantastic rocks. But the path becomes steeper and more steep, and not all our guide’s wit can prevent the feeling that our work is tough. After an hour and a half’s scrambling, we reach the summit, crowned by a little cairn, the first stone of which was placed by the King, then Prince of Wales ; and ^having emulated KUlarncy [h) 97 macgillycuddy’s reeks. CARR AN TUAL 98 him in his mountain climbing, we imitate him now and add a stone to the monument. The view is extremely grand, and quite repays the labour of; ascent. We are above all the neighbouring mountains, and our gaze is uninterrupted. If the day be clear, we can see far into the counties of Limerick, Clare and Cork, and right out into the Atlantic Ocean. On one side is the estuary of the Kenmare Fiord ; on the other the wide Bay of Dingle. We trace the Shannon from the great cliffs at Loop Head to Kilrush, to Tarbert, and to where its waters expand and reach towards Ennis, and even to Limerick. We make out the Galtee Mountains that border Tipperary, at least sixty miles to the eastward, and the mountains near Bandon to the south. Mizen Head and Bantry Bay appear to the south-east. We command mountains, hills, valleys, rivers, woods and seas, islands and inlets ; until, in the distance, land and sky appear to meet, gray and indistinct, and the horizon is only clear where the sunbeams fall on the gleaming waves of the Atlantic. We discern several lakes, the most conspicuous of which is Lough Caragh, near Killorglin. The Killarney Lakes, excepting the eastern portion of the Lower Lake, are hidden by the intervening heights. On several of the surrounding mountains we see small tarns. The other reeks run in parallel ridges, intersected by wild glens and gorges. Rugged crags hem in valleys of almost inconceivable desolation. High over this savage wilderness the eagle builds her nest. At such an elevation the atmosphere is considerably rari- fied ; and the tourist may suffer some inconvenience. He will discover that slight exertion tires him. Nor is it wise to remain long, as the clouds often gather round the summits, enveloping the traveller in thick cold fog, and rendering his movements along the edge of precipices and over boggy moorland extremely dangerous. These lofty and extensive mountains were long the secure fastnesses of the powerful sept of the MacGillycuddies. Castle Cor, near Churchtown, is the ruined residence of the earlier branch of the clan, whose lineal descendant still bears the title of “ MacGillycuddy of the Reeks.” We have a choice of three routes by which to return to the town. If we have arranged for a boat to meet us at the head of the Upper Lake, we can descend the southern side of the reeks into the Black Valley, and so complete a THE BLACK VALLEY 99 delightful round, which may be accomplished without much difficulty during a long summer day. But as we purpose sailing over the bosom of the lake on a future day, we adopt the course generally followed by tourists, and descend the mountain by the path by which we reached the summit. Then, following the course of the brawling Gaddagh River, we can examine the fantastic precipices known as the Large and the Small Hag’s Teeth ; and in this wilderness of rock give our guide an opportunity of telling “ his honour ” about the Hag herself, or the spirits, or the “ Leprechauns,” that, “ beyond all manner of doubt,” live in the inside of the rocks. In this way the foot of the mountain is reached, and having duly rewarded the guides we again seat ourselves in the car, and desire the driver to take us home by Church- town, in order that we may visit the grave of the great chief whose ancient territory we are in. We leave the castle of the O’Sullivan More (Dunloe) on the right, and get on to the Cahirciveen road at Beaufort Bridge. On the shore we see Lake View, at one time the residence of James O’Connell, brother of the great statesman. Then we pass the Catholic Church, near Aghadoe House. On our left are the Aghadoe Ruins, Saint Finian’s ancient shrine, and the Pulpit— perhaps the Bishop’s palace. For those who are a little more active a third descent may be recommended. It is possible to cross by a long ridge, showing a wonderful view, from Carran Tual to Curraghmore. Here a good path leads down to CummeendufT Glen — rarely visited — and from thence visitors can pass to the far end of the Gap of Dunloe by Gap Cottage, where they will have arranged that the ponies which they left at the Hag’s Glen shall be waiting for them. THIRD DAY. Lower Lake — Ross Island and Castle — Innisfallen Island and Abbey — O’Sullivan’s Cascade — Bay of Glena. The third day can be pleasantly spent on The Lower Lake, which is studded by some thirty islands of varying form and character, some luxuriant with foliage, others barren rocks scarcely large enough to be called islets. O’Donoghue’s Horse, one of the most celebrated rocks, was blown down IOO LOWER LAKE— ROSS ISLAND during a storm, and lies, like the rider, deeply buried in the waves ; but O’Donoghue’s Table, Prison, Pulpit and Library yet survive. The chief of the islands are those of Ross, Innisfallen and Glena, and a visit to these and to O’Sullivan’s Cascade will fully occupy the day. The excursion may, how- ever, if the desire of the tourist for change of scene be not satisfied, be lengthened by a delightful voyage among the lesser islands. Though its surroundings are not so grand as those of the mountain-girt Upper Lake, some tourists prefer the Lower Lake to the other two. The scenery is of a more tranquil and sylvan type. Most people, however, probably feel in the same state of mind as Thackeray, in the Irish Sketch Book, when replying to the question, “ What is to be said about Tore Lake ? ” he says : “ When there we agreed that it was more beautiful than the large lake, of which it is not one-fourtli the size ; then, when we came back, we said, ‘ No, the large lake is the most beautiful ’ ; and so, at every point we stopped at, we determined that that particular spot was the prettiest in the whole lake. The fact is, and I don’t care to own it, they are too hand- some. As for a man coming from his desk in London or Dublin and seeing ‘ the whole lakes in a day,’ he is an ass for his pains. A child doing a sum in addition might as well read the whole multiplication table and fancy he had it by heart.” The Lower Lake is more than five miles long by three wide ; its proper name is Lough Leane (“ the lake of learn- ing ”), probably derived from the fact that there were three religious establishments on its shores. We first visit — Ross Island, which is part of the Kenmare estate, and is laid out with walks and carriage-drives in the same tasteful and picturesque manner as the rest of the demesne. The island is beyond doubt of artificial formation, a moat having been cut through a morass in the isthmus which connected it with the land at a remote date — in all probability, as a protection to the castle the ruins of which form a prominent feature of the island. Its area is about 150 statute acres, and it is about a mile in length. The shore is worn into every variety of creek, promontory and bay, with deeply indented fantastic and curious rocks. Leaving Killarney by carriage, a short drive along the 101 T. W. Shiels,] [ Dublin , ROSS CASTLE. 102 ROSS CASTLE high-road and across the bridge thrown over the moat, con- ducts us to — Ross Castle, a noble ruin picturesquely clothed with ivy. It was the stronghold of the O’Donoghue, who exercised kingly juris- diction in these parts, an example which possibly influenced the Desmond to be as good as his neighbours. In 1645 the rebellious Irish were masters of every fortress in Kerry, with the exception of Ballingarry ; and the county was not COTTAGE ON ROSS ISLAND. finally reduced until 1652. Ross Castle was then defended by Lord Muskerry ; and General Ludlow brought a force of 4,000 horse and foot against it. The great strength of the place and the difficulty of attacking it would probably have tested the endurance of the Parliamentary troops had not the garrison been intimidated by an ancient prophecy that the castle would be impregnable until it was surrounded by ships of war. With characteristic energy, Ludlow caused some boats to be dragged up from Castlemaine and launched on the lake. Their appearance, filled with soldiers and INNISFALLEN 103 munitions for the siege, so frightened the superstitious de- fenders that they at once surrendered. After the troubles that followed the struggle between James II and William III, a detachment of the successful army subdued the county and restored order. The keep of the castle is nearly perfect ; it consists of a massive square tower, with a spiral stone staircase to the top. Originally, it was enclosed by an embattled curtain wall, having round flanking towers at each side. It is one of the most prominent ornaments to the lake, not less for its associations than for its intrinsic beauty as a ruin. The guide will point out a hundred places connected with the memory of the O’Donoghue, including the identical window where he leaped, charger and all, into the lake. Ross Island is nearly in the middle of the lake, and stretches almost half across it. Close to the castle is the quay at which the tourist generally embarks, whether his object be to explore the beauties of Innisfallen or to row through the whole of the lakes. A short row brings us to — Innisfallen, certainly the most charming of the isles on Lough Leane, and made famous the world over by Moore’s beautiful lines : — - “ Sweet Innisfallen, fare thee well, May calm and sunshine long be thine, How fair thou art, let others tell, While but to feel how fair, be mine. Sweet Innisfallen, long shall dwell In memory’s dream that sunny smile, Which o’er thee on that evening fell When first I saw thy fairy isle.” If we could select a focus of beauty where all is beautiful we might certainly esteem this lovely island worthy of our homage as queen of the lakes. In addition to the graces of flowers, shrubs and forest-trees, it has peculiar attractions of hill, valley and meadow. The waters lie in glassy sleep, reflecting the overlooking mountains, and the sky glows with that intense blue which is to be seen nowhere in this country to such perfection as at Killarney. Some of the groves on Innisfallen are so luxuriant as to be almost impenetrable ; yet the arbutus, so general on the 104 INNISFALLEN other islands and on the mainland, is not to be found. But one hardly misses it, for ivy, holly, laurel and evergreen oaks abound. The holly tree is extraordinarily abundant, and its bright corals and the scarlet clusters of the mountain ash are fresh and delicate as the arbutus berry. The great holly, which the guide must find for the visitor, is thought to be the largest in Europe. Another curiosity which will tempt the tourist to explore the mazes of this leafy island is a tree, or rather a combination of four trees, united so closely as to appear growing from the same stem ; they are ash, holly, hawthorn and ivy. The island lies about half a mile from the shore, between Ross and Rabbit Islands ; it is next in size to the former, and contains about twenty-one acres. In this small space groves of evergreens and forest-trees are disposed with such exquisite taste that walks in many directions lead through thickets of the densest foliage, by trees of enormous girth, over lawns and dells and hills ; and often the view opens through a vestibule of arching trees, through which the mountains loom with a dreamy, indescribable outline. When approaching the island in a boat the density of the under- wood is such that it looks as if it were growing out of the lake. The remains of Innisfallen Abbey, scattered all over the island, show that it was at one time very extensive. It was built in the year 600 by St. Finian Lobhar (“ the Leper ”), and inhabited by Canons Regular of the order of St. Augus- tine, who busied themselves in the compilation of the cele- brated “ Annals of Innisfallen,” which, with those of Ulster Tigernach, form the real history of Ireland after the intro- duction of Christianity. The original manuscript is in the Bodleian Library, Oxford ; it is on parchment, and contains fifty-seven quarto leaves. Several copies have been made. There is one in Dublin, in the library of Trinity College. In 1893 the Archaeological Society of Ireland made a thorough examination of the ruins of the abbey. They discovered several old tombstones and the altar — which was restored to its proper place — beneath the beautiful east window. The stones of this window were found buried near the spot and the Society had it re-erected. Having walked round the island, and visited all the spots worth seeing, not omitting the ruins of the Oratory, of older date than the monastery, we row across the lake to — 105 INNISFALLEN ISLAND, IO 6 O'SULLIVAN'S CASCADE O’Sullivan’s Cascade. If a bugler be among the crew, he will not fail to play some of those tender native airs which heard anywhere are pleasing, but here, where the refrain is echoed back from Glena and the Tomies Mountain, the effect is enchanting. “ Isle of Beauty ” or “ Haste and leave this Sacred Isle ” are sweet and suggestive melodies which will impress the ear and heart of the visitor, and he will not soon forget the weird loveliness of the long low, full tones which end each T. Healy ,] [KtUarney. RUINS ON INNISFALLEN ISLAND. bar of the tune, and which swell back with all the brilliancy of a full chorus. Approaching the little quay, the mountains here are ever- changing and sublime in appearance, their bases appearing one mass of tangled verdure, brilliant with the fresh green of the arbutus. Ravines and watercourses furrow the slopes above the belt of forests, whilst higher still the naked rocks alternate with yellow whin and purple heather. The steep summit catches the passing cloud and holds it till the drift- O'SULLIVAN'S CASCADE— GLEN A BAY 107 ing breeze unfurls it like the pennant on a warrior’s spear. On landing, we approach the cascade through a rich wood along a rugged path and hear the water long before we see it. On by a singing rivulet, far into the bosom of a dark glen, the narrow path leading through ferns and briar and wild-flowers of many a hue, and overshadowed with mossy rocks and foliage, we catch no glimpse of the waterfall until a sudden bend in the path reveals it to us in all its sublimity. Roaring with a deafening din, leaping from rock to rock, hissing and boiling in rock-worn abysses that look more dreadfully dark from the white contorted waters that thunder into them, the cataract is very beautiful. The entire height of the fall is about 70 feet. It is divided into three leaps. The first is over a ridge of rock, about 20 feet in perpendicular height ; the water then rushes with great velocity and noise through a chasm between two huge rocks, and falls foaming over the next precipice into a wave-hollowed basin, whence, plunging down the last descent, it continues its tumultuous course to the placid lake. This cascade is considered by some the finest near Killarney. The stream which forms it descends from the Tomies Mountain. The visitor will discover a romantic grotto beneath the projecting rock which overhangs the lowest fall. From this the view is finest. Some stone benches afford a welcome rest. Before embarking, the tourist should find out a magnificent oak tree in the neighbourhood of the fall, known as the Royal Oak. It measures 14 feet in circumference, and probably is not less than 90 feet in height. We next direct our boat along the shore to — Glena Bay. The voyage takes us along the foot of Tomies Mountain, which rises precipitously to a height of 2,413 feet. We see many beautiful islands, in whose rifted rocks the ash and the oak have anchored their strong roots, and creeks and pro- montories where the arbutus displays its brilliant berries and wild roses are plentiful. Passing Stag Island, Burnt Island, Minister’s Back and Barbie’s Garden, we enter the lovely bay of Glena, “ the glen of good fortune,” and seek out the charm- ing Cottage built by Lord Ivenmare. Here we find every accommodation for luncheon. The cottage is another of the “ Queen’s Cottages,” and in Queen Victoria’s diary the in- 108 QUEEN’S COTTAGE cident of her visit here is mentioned in terms of the liveliest recollection. The grounds of the cottage are tastefully laid out, and walks giving vistas of wonderful beauty radiate in many directions. The scenery is considered almost equal to that of Innisfallen, and certainly is unsurpassed by any shore T. Healy,] [ Killarney . o’sullivan’s cascade. view on the Lower Lake. The expanse of waters, stretching away to Castlelough Bay, often glow in the declining sun- beams like burnished gold. On the right hand, the Tore Mountain as a background and the wooded peninsula of Muckross along the water’s edge ; on the left, the island of Ross, with its romantic castle ; and, further off, the densely- AGHADOE 109 wooded Innisfallen — these, with the smaller islands in the foreground, combine to make one of the fairest pictures the visitor can find even at Killarney. The tourist so disposed may from this point ascend the Sheehy Mountain, descending by Celinigaun. This district, and especially these woods, were once the haunts of the red deer ; a few remain but are so shy that visitors rarely see them. FOURTH DAY. Aghadoe and Gap of Dunloe — Turnpike and Black Valley — Logan Stone— Upper Lake — Long Range — Eagles’ Nest — Muckross or Middle Lake. This excursion is one of the choicest imaginable. As the distance is considerable, and the places and objects of interest numerous, the tourist must start early ; and, if the weather be propitious, he will cordially endorse the sentiment that Killarney is “a little Paradise.” The first portion of the journey may be made by car ; but the remainder, to the head of the Upper Lake, must be performed on the back of one of the sure-footed mountain ponies of the district, unless the tourist is robust enough to walk the whole distance. Before starting, arrangements are made for a boat to be in waiting at the head of the Upper Lake, so that we may return through the entire stretch of the lakes. This excur- sion is a favourite one with those who can only spare a single day for a visit to Killarney. Driving along the road which skirts the northern shore of Lough Leane, and proceeding some mile and a quarter further west, we may turn off the main road to inspect the ruined shrines of — Aghadoe, the venerable relic of bygone ages, where the shrines of Paganism and Christianity stand side by side, vanquished and victor alike silent and forlorn. The remains consist of a church, a round tower and a round castle. Only a part of the lower storey of the Round Tower remains ; it is easy to ascend, the height of the frag- ment being only about 12 feet. It measures in outer circum- ference 52 feet ; the thickness of its wall was 3^- feet. The stones, laid in regular courses, are large and well dressed ; IIO DUNLOE CASTLE the masonry is much better than that of either the adjacent church or castle. The Castle, called the “ Bishop’s Chair,” as the round tower is called the “ Pulpit,” is about 30 feet in height ; the walls are 7 feet thick, and contain a flight of stairs within. The castle stands within an earthen enclosure ; and from this circumstance and its round configuration is thought to belong to the ninth century. The Cathedral is about 80 feet long by 20 broad. It con- sists of nave and choir, divided by a wall, which was evidently once pierced by a door. The nave is believed to date from the seventh century ; the choir from the thirteenth. Few and broken as the walls are, they are embellished with an architectural gem, a Romanesque doorway of exquisite beauty, in the western wall of the nave. The stone is different from that used in the remainder of the edifice. The walls are densely covered with ivy. Again seating ourselves in the car, we drive westward, and, crossing the Laune, soon reach — Dunloe Castle, standing prominently on the summit of a small hill. It is a fine object in the landscape, and the views from it are extremely picturesque. Originally erected for the defence of the pass of the river and for guarding Dunloe Gap, the fortress withstood some severe struggles during the reigns of Henry and Elizabeth. In the civil war of 1641 General Ludlow besieged it ; the garrison made a brave defence, and only surrendered when the greater part of the fortress had been laid in ruins. The castle has been adapted as a resi- dence, but retains enough of its warlike character to show how capable of withstanding the brunt of combat it was in the brave days of old. The excursion to Dunloe Castle is frequently made by water, the row along the river Laune being particularly pleasing. Continuing the ride for another half-mile, we reach the entrance to the celebrated — Gap of Dunloe, and turn aside to examine a Cave, brought to light in 1838. Of circular shape, it was constructed of uncemented stones inclining inwards ; and on the larger stones of the roof were Ogham inscriptions, which tended to -show that it was a Druidical temple or place of sepulture. Ill THE GAP OF DUNLOE. 1 1 2 GA PyOF D UNLOE The Gap is a strangely wild gorge, separating the Tomies Mountain from the Macgillycuddy Reeks, and running almost due south for about four miles. The gates of this romantic valley are almost perpendicular rocks, which scarcely give room for the road. The hills on either side are spurs of the great mountains, called respectively the Holly and Bull Mountains. A small stream traverses the valley, expanding in places into gloomy lakes, called the Cummeen Thomeen Lakes, remarkable for the inky blackness of their waters. The farthest of them, Black Lough, exceeds the others in this respect and in coldness. While the other lakelets abound in fish, this has none ; and Paddy assures us that this is due to the fact that the lake is the identical spot where St. Patrick drowned the last serpent. Proceeding along the valley, the rocks rise on either side in wild confusion, apparently ready to topple over and crush the visitor. The narrow torrent is twice crossed by the road, the brawling waters intensifying the desolate but sublime character of the scene. As we advance, the outline of the mountains changes. Huge boulders appear above the path, and shattered fragments of rock strew the steep moun- tain slopes. The Purple Mountain, with all its chro- matic beauties ; the Tomies, with its glowing lights and in- tense shadows ; and the Reeks, lifting their aspiring summits ; then the black unruffled lakelets, as cold, still, and silent as death, combine to make a picture which has no equal in Killarney. It is a scene of utter solitude and desolation — a picture of the valley of the shadow of death. In a distance of about two miles after leaving Cushvalley Lough, the road rises some 400 feet, the way being encumbered with rocks. Close to Black Lough, where the valley narrows so as to leave scarcely room for the road and the stream, we come to some curious rocks, called the Turnpike. As cars cannot proceed farther, it is usual to have ponies waiting here. Sometimes a man will come forward, and, for sixpence a shot, or cheaper “ if a quantity are taken,” fire a small cannon. The effect is wonderful. A thousand repetitions spring from the mountain, caverns and hollows ; a perfect torrent of thunder rushes from the peaks and ravines and is hurled back by the precipices of the Purple Mountain. Again the assault of sound is made on the Reeks, and repulsed from the Purple Rocks ; and this conflict of sound goes on between rock and rock, booming like a great piece of ordnance, until, H3 Killarney (i) THE UPPER LAKE. 1 1 4 GAP OF DUNLOE gradually lowering its intensity, it drops into silence, and leaves the sensation that it has not ceased but gone farther. Before leaving the neighbourhood, we can visit the Logan Stone, or “ balance rock,” as the peasantry term it. Those who walk can take a short cut over the rocks, saving the long detour made by the bridle-path on emerging from the Gap. At the end of the Gap we reach the Gearhameen, or Cum- meeniuff River, a sullen stream issuing from Lough-na-bric- W. Lawrence ,] [ Dublin . SERPENT LAKE, GAP OF DUNLOE. dearg (“ red trout lake ”), a dreary little tarn, circled by overhanging rocks, at the further extremity of — The Black Valley (Cummeenduff Glen, or Coom-a-Dhuv). After a tumultuous course of about half-a-dozen miles, during which it widens into a few gloomy lakelets, the river falls into the head of the Upper Lake. A detour up the Black Valley is well worth the expenditure of time. THE UPPER LAKE US Regaining the road, we follow the course of the river, through what is still known as Lord Brandon’s Demesne, though it has long since passed into other hands. A toll of a shilling has to he paid. The road conducts us to a small quay, where we find the boats are waiting and a welcome luncheon is spread upon the lawn. In fine weather, the rest for luncheon in this delightful spot is considered by many the best part of the day. Embarking and rowing down stream, we soon find ourselves on the bosom of — The Upper Lake, studded with elfin islands, and embraced by mountain-pbaks, towering abrupt and dark to the sky, whilst their base is clothed with foliage. Who can fail to admire the tranquil surface of the waters that reflect all this magnificence, while we wind in and out through the shade, and enjoy the delight of gliding gently through the scene, viewing it under circum- stances in which the mind can give all attention as the water seems to pass along like some winding panorama, and we ourselves to remain quiescent ? Seemingly land-locked, we wonder where will be our exit, as each headland, rock and mountain comes into view. MacCarthy More’s Island is one of the first islands passed. It is luxurious with evergreens, amongst which Lebanon cedars thrive. Then comes Ronayne’s Island, where may be had some of the finest views of the lake. Eagle Island is reputed to have been at one time frequented by birds of that description. Oak and Juniper Islands are so called from the woods that cover them. Arbutus Island is clad with that lovely shrub, growing here with marked luxuriance. Colman’s Eye is the promontory which marks the extremity of the Lower Lake, and shows where the strait called the Long Range begins. Here there is a cluster of rocks of fantastic form, and the guide will help us to trace resemblances to a leg of mutton, a round of beef and many other things. Still winding through scenes of loveliness, we float down a placid stream, above whose wooded shores Tore Mountain rises bold and majestic. There is a richness in the foliage and a brightness in the light of these latitudes not elsewhere seen. Fresh aspects of beauty appear as we proceed — the luxury of woods and the sublimity of mountains repeating them- selves, the clouds passing over the summits casting long shadows on the waters. We soon reach — 1 16 THE EAGLES y NEST The Eagles’ Nest, a mountain justly celebrated for its echo. It has a height of 1,100 feet, and is conical in form. The base is covered with evergreens, and higher up the naked summit forms a tremendous precipice, in the crevices of which eagles used to build their nests. Here it is usual to land. The profusion and size of the ferns will attract the visitor’s attention ; and he will doubtless be desirous of evoking the famous echo. W. Lawrence,] < L Dublin . THE OLD WEIR BRIDGE. From his station the bugler sounds a single note. At once the echo responds ; and hill, glen and rock take up the cadence. Then the bugler rings out a rapid succession of notes, and instantly the mountains wail forth a flood of rich harmony, “ beautiful, but sadly sweet, As when harp -strings and soft winds meet. And breathe a low, unmeasured tone, To mortal minstrelsy unknown,” OLD WEIR BRIDGE 1 1 7 Again we glide along ; but the current grows swift, and the noise of rushing waters is in our ears. Soon the — Old Weir Bridge is in sight. Our pilot grasps the helm with firmer hand ; and the boatmen bend to their oars. Nearer we come to the arch, the waves splashing and gurgling. Now the boat- men give a stronger, firmer pull — another — the oars are W. Lawrence ,] [ Dublin . THE COLLEEN BAWN CAVES. shipped, and like an arrow from the bow we shoot the rapid . Scarcely have we recovered from the excitement ere we are again in tranquil waters, the bugler’s mellow notes all but speaking the dulcet words — “ There is not in this wide world a valley so sweet As the vale in whose bosom the bright waters meet.” Old Weir Bridge serves to connect Dinish Island with the mainland ; it consists of two arches, only one of which is navigable. The spot is called, with Irish perversity, the Meeting of the Waters, because here the waters part. The 118 THE EAGLES’ NEST MOUNTAIN. DINISH ISLAND— MIDDLE LAKE 1 19 western channel debouches on the Bay of Glena ; the eastern, that which we take, flows into the Middle or Muckross Lake. The tourist lands on the richly wooded— Dinish Island, to see O’Sullivan’s Punch Bowl. Embowered in arbutus groves, a pretty rustic Cottage has been built for the accom- modation of visitors. Here we can take tea, or saunter about and walk over to see Brickeen Island ; and further on, across another bridge, then entering Muckross demesne, visit the lakelet of Doolah and the old copper mines. The name is properly Dine-iske (“ the beginning of the waters ”), but the boatmen know it as Dinish Island. Again we embark, this time on — The Middle Lake, also called Tore Lake and Muckross Lake. It also has its wonderful echoes ; and there are creeks and caves along its shores which the tourist will view with much interest. The level of the water is 5 feet below that of the Upper Lake. There are but four islands in it, against thirty in the Lower Lake, and six in the Upper Lake. The curious and pic- turesque Colleen Bawn Caves will interest those familiar with Gerald Griffin’s story, The Colleen Bawn, upon which Bouci- cault’s famous play was based. Perhaps the visitor would do best to order his boat to coast the southern shore, where the rocks and headlands are wildest and highest, and the lake deepest. Rowing up the lovely strait which separates Brickeen Island from the Muckross demesne, and then entering Glena Bay, we cross the Lower Lake, and land at the quay near Ross Castle, where conveyances wait to take us to our hotel. Cyclists will thank us for adding a note to the effect that it is quite possible to “ do ” the Gap by cycle, the only drawback being the elimination of the boating excursion through the Long Range. Cyclists, however, have the advantage of seeing the Gap in both directions, an advantage far greater than would appear at first sight. In fact, all tourists who can spare the day are recommended to see the Purple Mountain and Carran Tual in the other direction, especially in the afternoon, when the blackness of the Gap is in strong relief against the sunshine on the mountain-top. 1 20 GLENFLESK FIFTH DAY. Glenflesk — Labig Owen and Druidical Remains at Lissivigeen — Kenmare Demesne — Lord Kenmare’s West Park and Demesne — Ross Island and the Deer Park. The morning can be devoted to a run along Glenflesk ; the afternoon to wandering about the demesne of Lord Ken- mare, and, if time permit, taking another peep at Ross Castle before bidding adieu to Killarney and its beautiful scenery. KILLARNEY HOUSE ( The seat of the Earl of Kenmare). GLENFLESK Glenflesk 1 2 I should be visited by every tourist ; it lies to the south-east of the town. The most beautiful spots may easily be reached from the railway station at Headford, eight miles from Kil- larney ; but it is best to drive through the glen on an out- side car, as in that way its features can be seen at leisure. The glen is a richly-wooded valley through which the Flesk carries the surplus waters of Lough Guittane into the Lower Lake. Immense rocks project from either side of the glen, and the little stream leaps impetuously in a series of cascades over the barriers which obstruct its path. Filadown, the most picturesque part, was long the retreat of a celebrated outlaw, Owen MacCarthy ; his den, the Labig Owen, is a small cavern about half-way up the Demon’s Cliff. Near the upper entrance to the glen, on a commanding site, stand the ruins of Killaha Castle, formerly the stronghold of the O’Dono- ghues of the glens ; hard by are the remains of the old church. The Druids’ Circles at Lissivigeen should be inspected ; and we can also visit Flesk Castle, which stands on a picturesque, wooded knoll round the base of which the river sweeps in eddying currents. An extensive panoramic view of the Middle and Lower Lakes may be enjoyed from the castle terrace. The road home leads us past — Lough Guittane, or Kittane, a retired and spacious lake lying under the shadows of Stpooma, a mountain 2,280 feet high. Both the lake and the river which flows from it afford the angler good sport ; the trout are more abundant and better flavoured than those caught in the other lakes. Surrounded by barren hills, gloomy glens and weird rocks, Guittane would any- where, save in the vicinity of such superb contrast as the waters of Tore and Leane provide, be considered a remarkable lake. We set out in the afternoon to visit— Kenmare Demesne, which, with its charming pleasure gardens and lovely sylvan glades, Lord Kenmare has, with great liberality, thrown open to the public. A magnificent mansion was built in 1880 on an eminence a little to the north of the old one. It is a red- brick Tudor structure, forming a conspicuous and pleasing 122 KEN MARE DEMESNE object from all parts of Lough Leane. The demesne has recently been considerably enlarged by the addition of the West Park, extending for a considerable distance along the northern shore of the lake. There are, in all parts of the grounds, exquisite walks, with occasional flower-beds and groves of rare shrubs and forest-trees, so disposed as to give now and again choice prospects of the glancing lake and towering mountains. The Deer Park should not be forgotten by the visitor. Here all is wild and natural, and ferns and flowers abound in its dells and glens. Here is a Druids’ altar, called by the natives Clough-na-Cuddy (“ Cuddy’s stone ”), after, perhaps, the great chief of the Reeks, who the guide will assure you cast it all the way here from Carran Tual. Keeping to the left, the visitor reaches a gate leading to Ross Castle. From the battlement and windows a compre- hensive view of the picturesque domain we have just left may be obtained, the mansion appearing to very great advantage. THE SIXTH DAY. The sixth day may be pleasantly occupied in many ways. We may re-visit one or more of the scenes to which we have already made excursions, but to which our haste has caused us to pay too little attention. We may enjoy another row on the Lower Lake or a walk through Lord Kenmare’s demesne ; or may make our way to the shops at which articles manufactured from bog-oak and the wood of the arbutus are sold, in order to carry away souvenirs of our visit to Killarney. Nor should we omit to devote an hour to an inspection of the Cathedral. Or we may proceed by rail to Cahirciveen and visit the island of Valentia. The majority of tourists, however, combine this trip with the popular tour round the Kerry Coast. An excellent alternative can be proposed for those who are fairly active. Take the Gap road as far as Kate Kearney’s, where an excellent path turns up the mountain-side to the left. This path is quite safe for the average pedestrian, and offers one of the finest walks in Ireland. On the ridge-top it degenerates a little, until it is little better than a sheep- KILLARNEY 123 path, but it is always clearly defined. By and bye, the Black Lake appears below on the left, and Cushvally follows. Here the path begins to grow more definite and to descend gently from the Purple Mountain to the road at the turnpike, where the coach will be waiting the pedestrian. Possibly this un- conventional tramp will give the tourist the best idea of the Gap of Dunloe. AN OUTSIDE CAR. CYCLING AND MOTORING ROUTES. N O place else can charm the eye of the tourist who loves nature like “ Beauty’s Home, Killarney ” ; and this picturesque locality has an additional charm for the wheel- man by reason of the fact that the roads, generally speaking, are very suitable for cycling. There are several establish- ments in the town at which cycles can be hired. The cyclist or motorist visiting Killarney usually starts from either Dublin or Cork. The shortest route from Dublin would be : — Dublin to Killarney (Route I.). Miles. Miles. Inchcore .... 3h Thurles 87 Rathcoale .... IO Holy cross 9i Kill 16 Dundrum ioo Naas 20 Tipperary ioS Newbridge .... • 27 Knocklong 120 Kildare .... • 32 Kilmallock .... 128 Monasterevan . • 39 Charleville . . . . • . 134 Maryborough . • 5i Freemount .... 145 Abbeyleix .... 6i Newmarket .... 152 Durrow .... . 67 Boherboy 158 J ohnston .... . 76 Killarney I78J This is the shortest route, and good as regards roads, but possesses no other advantages. Dublin to Killarney (Route II.). The best route, however, would be : — Dublin via Naas 20 Clonmel . . . . 103 Old Kilcullen . . . 29 Clogheen . . . . 118 Athy .... . . . 42 Fermoy . . . . 137 Ballylinan . • • • 45 Ballyhooly . . . . . 142 Castlecomer . • • • 59 Mallow . . . . . 154 Kilkenny . . . 72 Millstreet . . . . . 173 Callan ... 82 1 Killarney . . . . • 195 Glenbower . . . . 93 1 124 CYCLING AND MOTORING ROUTES 125 Dublin to Cork. The cyclist by Route II may, if he so desires, turn off at Fermoy and travel on to Cork. The route then would be : — Miles. Miles. Fermoy to Rathcormac . 142 I Cork 159 Watergrass Hill . . . 155 | Cork to Killarney. The best routes from Cork to Killarney are : — Carrigcrohane .... 4 Ballyvourney . . . -35 Coachford 16 Killarney 56 Macroom 25 Or leaving Macroom (25 miles from Cork), the road through Toonesbridge, Inchigeela, the Pass of Keimaneigh (47 miles from Cork), and on to Glengariff (60) may be taken. Ken- mare (78), Killarney (99). This road has many steep descents and dangerous turns. The distances given in each case are, of course, the total distance from the starting-point mentioned. Killarney District. Having arrived in Killarney, the cyclist can depend upon good roads. The only thing necessary is to keep watch for sharp turns and steep descents. A much admired Circular Tour from Killarney is : — Killarney to Windv Gap . 16 Cahirciveen .... • 72 Kenmare 21 Glenbeigh .... . 91 Parknasilla . • 35 Caragh Lake • 95 Sneem .... • 38 Killorglin .... . 99 Caherdaniel . • 5i Killarney .... . 112 Waterville . . *60 Or an alternative route may be taken : — Killarney to Beaufort • • 5 Sneem 60 Bealalaw Bridge . 19 Kenmare .... • 77 Waterville . • • 37 Killarney .... . 99 Caherdaniel . . . 47 If it is desired to make Killarney the resting-place each night the following tours could be taken : — Route I. Killarney to Gap of Dunloe 10 I Windy Gap 30 Ownreagh Glen . . . 18 | Killarney 36 Care should be taken to keep on the proper road through the Glen, as there are many crossings. * A visit to* the Island of Valentia from Cahirciveen is worth while. L There is a good road through the Island- 126 CYCLING AND MOTORING ROUTES Route II. Miles. Miles. Killarney to Tore Water- | Enter Demesne to Dinis . io fall 3 | On to Kenmare Road and Return to Muckross Hotel. 4 | home to Killarney . . ij\ The road through Muckross Demesne is in some places dangerous owing to its steep and winding character. Route III. Killarney to Ross Castle 1^ Through Demesne to Lib- rary Point . . . .2^ Back through Ross Island and Demesne to Ma- li ony’s Point . . . 9^ Killarney 12 1 This road is perfectly safe and good, except two descents in Ross Island. Route IV. Killarney through Deer Park 2\ On leaving park near race- course, pass burial ground and turn to the right to Aghadoe . . . • 5| On to Beniska Cross and home to Killarney . . 8| There is a dangerous hill in Deer Park, and also another leading to Beniska Cross. Killarney to Beaufort . Lough Acoose . Glencar Caragh Lake Route V. 6 1 7 19 27 Glencar Hotel Gerah Cross Windy Gap . Killarney 29 40 48 64 The entire road after leaving Beaufort on to Killarney requires care, as there are some sharp turns and steep descents. Route VI. Killarney to Kilbrean Wood 3! Lacka Lake 4 Boghaghnamina (the mov- ing bog) 10 Gneeveguilla Headford Killarney 12 15 21 This road is good, but care should be taken, owing to its unprotected condition at the sides from Lacka Lake to Headford. Killarney to Killegy Lough Guittane Robbers’ Den . Headfort Killarney Route VII. 2 6 9 12 . 18 Or from the Robbers’ Den through Glenflesk to Minish 13 Killarney 17 CYCLING AND MOTORING ROUTES 127 Route VIII. Miles. Miles. Killarney to Ivillegy . . 2 Kilgarvan .... 16 Lough Guittane ... 6 Kenmare .... 22 Loo Bridge 10 Killarney .... • 43 The road to Kenmare is good, but the road from Kenmare to Killarney is steep and winding. Route IX. Killarney to Brennan’s Glen 7 Farranfore 10 Castle Island . . . . 15 Scartaglin through Gneeve- guilla, Boghaghnamina, and back to Killarney . 33 The road is fairly good, and the hills are not dangerous, except the hill at Spa and Park, about three miles from Killarney. Route X. Killarney to Killorglin Milltown Castlemaine . 10 13 16 Farranfore . Ballyhar Killarney This road is also good, but care should be taken of steep hills. 20 23 29 a few Route XI. Killarney to Flesk Cross . 1 Bridge 32- Mills . . . . . . 2 Killarney 5 Flesk Castle .... 3 The road is very good, but the descent on the portion between Flesk Castle and Bridge is dangerous. The Cycling Club in Killarney contains members who are ever ready to assist visiting cyclists in relation to most of the short journeys. 128 W. Lawrence,] [Dublin. AT VALENTIA. ROUND THE COAST OF KERRY. Killarney to Valentia Harbour by Rail — Cross to Valentia Island by Ferry — Cahirciveen to Kenmare by Coach — Kenmare to Killarney by Rail or Coach. T HIS circular tour, by rail and coach, round the southern promontory of county Kerry, can be accomplished in two days, Parknasilla being the stopping-place for the night, but three or four days, or even a week, would by no means exhaust the beauties of the district. The excellent chain of hotels belonging to the Great Southern and Western Railway Company and others add considerably to the amenities of the trip. When about ten miles from Killarney, we change carriages at Farranfore Junction. Killorglin, at the mouth of the Laune, is twenty-four miles by rail, and thirteen by road from Killarney. A good road leads south-westward to Glencar (n miles), which is, however, more often visited from Caragh Lake. Another road runs right through the heart of the promontory to Waterville (28 miles). For twenty-six miles now our journey is chiefly along the southern shore of the beautiful — y Dingle Bay, with, on the opposite side, a background of lofty hills, termi nated in the far distance by the Brandon Mountain (3,127 feet). Dunmore Head, the bluff extremity of the northern peninsula, is the most westerly land in Ireland — nearer America than any point of the European shores. It is surrounded by a number of rocky isles, the largest of which, the Great Blasket, presents some lofty and steep cliffs to the sea. These features of the northern coast of the bay will attract attention successively as we make our way westward ; Brandon is much in evidence as we leave Killorglin and at other points on the journey. To the south are the peaks of Killarney ( k ) 129 130 CARAGH LAKE— GLEN CAR the high mountains which hem in Killarney, in ever-changing and interesting combinations. About five miles from Killor- glin we stop at the station for — Caragh Lake LHotel : Great Southern], a beautiful sheet of water about six miles long and in places a mile broad. Near the station is a fine hotel, under the control of the Great Southern and Western Railway Company, the white castellated tower of which, on the wooded shore of the lake, attracts attention from the railway. The pretty river Caragh, five miles long, connecting the lough with the sea, is famous for salmon and trout. Indeed, all the streams hereabouts are fishful. A salmon and trout hatchery has been constructed in the hotel grounds. Good rough shooting — grouse, woodcock, duck, etc. — can be had in plenty on the neighbouring moors and mountains. There are golf links at Dooks close by. Even Killarney cannot show anything more beautiful than Caragh Lake, and it has the advantage of being to a great extent virgin touring ground. Some de- lightful trips can be had on the lake by means of the hotel boats. A good short trip is to car or walk to Blackstones Bridge, at the south end of the lake, and boat back. Or one can continue southward from Blackstones by the riverside track for another two miles or so to Glencar, where there is a good hotel, much frequented by sportsmen. The surround- ings of Glencar are in every way delightful, and the district well deserves its growing popularity. “ Here,” it has been well said, “ one may easily imagine himself transferred to a lovely Swiss valley on a reduced scale. The high ground where the hotel stands is nearly the centre of a great circle, seven or eight miles in diameter, hemmed in by mountains of vary- ing height, and apparently cut off from the outer world save by the small pass by which we entered. About two and a half hours’ stay is allowed here, and the cars take us to the boat at Black- stones Bridge, at the head of Lake Caragh. Instead of driving, the visitor may y/alk by the river along the fisherman’s path, pass- ing several rapids and large salmon pools, and through groves of birch trees. The surroundings of Lickeen House, at the end of the lake, rival the picturesque part of the Trossachs, but on a much smaller scale — the same abundance of moss-covered birch trees, quiet sylvan retreats, and glistening water everywhere meets the eye. Rowing down the lake, on the way to Caragh railway station, some very fine cliffs and headlands are passed, extending all along the lake on,the east side, and the scenery is very varied and beau- tiful as we approach the end of our journey. W. Lawrence,] [ Dublin . MOOR AND MOUNTAIN, GLENCAR. W. Lawrence,] BALLAGHBEAMA PASS. [Dublin, 131 L32 GLENBEIGH “ Cloon Lake, Upper and Lower, is a good fishing resort. The upper end is encircled by high, storm-riven cliffs of solid stone ; and on the bosom of the lower lake rests a small green island, covered with rocks, heather, and low trees. In this solitude the heron and the wood-pigeon build their nests side by side ; and on the approach of man, the wild goat and the marten cat have been seen swimming away to the mainland.” Another noteworthy sheet of water in the- neighbourhood of Glencar is Acoose Lake, near to which the high-road to Killorglin passes. The mountaineer may humour his weak- ness from Caragh or Glencar as much as he pleases, amongst the peaks “ available ” being Carran Tual (3,414), more often ascended from Killarney (see p. 96), and, for the less ambi- tious, Gortnagloran (nearly 1,000 feet high) on the east side of the lake. A series of driving and boating excursions has been arranged from the Southern Hotel, Caragh Lake, at fixed prices. The drive along the road to Waterville should be taken at least as far as the Swiss-like Ballaghasheen Pass. Another fine drive is by the road southward through the Ballaghbeama Pass to Blackwater Bridge and Parknasilla (22 miles). Yet another drive, a circular one, is round the east side of Lough Caragh to Blackstones Bridge, then through Windy Gap, with its fine frontward view, to Glenbeigh. Glenbeigh [Hotel : Headley Arms ] is a promising little watering-place, with a good hotel, golf links, and a fine strand for bathing. Glenbeigh takes its name from its situation at the mouth of the river Beigh, which rises some five miles south-westward in the stern crag- surrounded loughs known as Coomasharn, Coomaglaslaw, and Coomnacronia. Coomasharn is certainly worth a visit, on account of the great precipices which overhang it. At Glenbeigh a rug and carpet industry has recently been started. Leaving Glenbeigh, the line ascends and comes quite close to the coast, and we have superb views on the right of Dingle Bay and its background of lofty mountains. We continue to ascend, and at Mountain Stage (so named from its having been the stage-house in the not very remote days of cars and coaches) we are on a piece of genuine mountain railway, more than 400 feet above the sea. The line presently turns inland to Kells (a small hamlet merely, and not to be confused with the several other Kells in Ireland). A long descent brings us to — 133 CAHIRCIVEEN. 134 CAHIRCIVEEN Cahirciveen. Hotels. — Leslie's Railway, Royal, Webb's , etc. Here tourists who are proceeding round the promontory to Parknasilla, etc., change for the coaches, lunching usually at Leslie’s Railway Hotel. The line, however, goes on some three miles further to Valentia Harbour, the most westerly railway station in Europe, whence those who are making Valentia Island their headquarters for a time ferry across (see p. 135). Cahirciveen is interesting as the most westerly town in the British Isles, and also from its connection with Daniel O’Connell, the “ Liberator,” who spent his childhood at Carhan House close by, now in ruins. The town is built at the base of the Bentee (1,245 feet), and consists mainly of a long street bordering the main road. The only public build- ing of note is the O’Connell Memorial Church. The white building in Scotch Baronial style, which shows up so pro- minently as the train crosses the estuary, is the Police Barracks. From near this spot a body of insurgents marched towards Killarney during the Fenian rising of 1867. Cahirciveen, though unimportant in itself, makes a good centre for sportsmen, and even the ordinary tourist will find plenty to occupy him in the numerous walks and drives through the little known scenery of this rugged western promontory. He can make his headquarters either here or at Valentia Island. Among the interesting spots in the neighbourhood are the ruins of Ballycarberry Castle, one of the seats of the McCarthy-More, of which the O’Connells were the hereditary constables. It is near Doulus Head, a promontory to the north-west, separated from the town by the mouth of the river. Near the castle is an ancient circular fort, similar to Staigue Fort (see p. 142), but not so perfect. The interior of one of the caves beneath Do.ulus Head is very lofty, and bears some resemblance to that of a cathedral. On Church Island, in Valentia Harbour, are the remains of an early monastery, an oratory, and some beehive cells. A mile and a half north-east of Cahirciveen are the few remains of Carhan House, the old mansion of the O’Connell family, said to have been the birthplace of the famous states- man. Within easy distance of the town are Coununa and Couno- rowm, two pretty inlets of Dingle Bay, with small fishing harbours. VALENTI A ISLAND 135 Valentia Island. Hotel. Royal , Knightstown. Approach. —Rail to Valentia Harbour, thence Ferry ( 6d . each way) to Knights* town, the principal village on the island. The island is separated from the mainland by a strait about half a mile wide, and is about six miles in length. It belongs to the Knight of Kerry. Most of the inhabitants (about 2,000) live by the fisheries. Formerly, owing to the lack of accommodation, visitors were not numerous, but the opening of the excellent Royal Hotel (under the same management as the Bay View at Waterville) has rendered possible an enjoyable sojourn in this little known and unconventional holiday resort. Bath- ing, boating, and first-rate sea-fishing can be had, and the cliff scenery is magnificent. As might be expected from its westerly situation, the winter climate of the island is excep- tionally mild. Cars can be hired at the Hotel at fixed rates for the fine drive round the island, and for visits to various places of interest. The proprietor of the hotel can secure passes for the grounds of Glenleam and the Cable Station (P- * 37 )- The shores are indented with bays and cliffs, and guarded by isolated rocks, against which the waves of the Atlantic surge with uncontrolled fury. Bray Head, the most westerly point, rises precipitously 792 feet above the sea, and from its lofty crest we have a glorious view. Eight miles to the south, the Skelligs loom like pyramids above the boundless ocean, and all the islands in sight have an extraordinary and abrupt outline — stern, yet picturesque. Northward we see Slea Head and the Dingle Mountains, the Great Blasket, and many lesser islands elevated over the surging waves ; some that look like batteries and castles, others that appear like Gothic houses. Inland, we behold the many-tinted inclines of the Iveragh Mountains, with their wild, serrated ridges ; and seaward, we gaze upon the mighty Atlantic, spreading into a vast horizon that seems a wall of water. The visitor should not leave without inspecting the light- house and the monument to the memory of the late Knight of Kerry, both of them built on wild and romantic elevations. The lighthouse stands at Cromwell' s Fort, as the headland is named, a reminiscence of the fact that Noll erected forts at each end of the island, as well to safeguard the coast as to prevent the captains of hostile privateers from using the 1 36 VALENTI A ISLAND island and its harbour for the purposes of concealment. In later years, the notorious American Commander Paul Jones often availed himself of the protection afforded by the har- bours and creeks hereabouts. At Glenleam, the seat of the Knight of Kerry, are some gigantic fuchsias, one said to be the largest in the world. The climate is so mild that the THE ATLANTIC CABLE COMING ASHORE AT VALENTIA. myrtle, arbutus, and several other tropical exotics flourish. It is best to keep the lower road, round by the coast (about fifteen miles in circuit), as the interior of the island is com- paratively uninteresting. Tourists staying at the hotel should take advantage of the special facilities provided for an inspection of the Anglo- THE SKELL 1 GS 1 37 American Telegraph Co.’s Cable Station. Others should furnish themselves beforehand with an order from the Secre- tary, at 2 6, Old Broad Street, London, E.C. It will be remembered that the first Atlantic Cable began to be laid on August 5, 1857, but six days later it snapped, after three hundred miles had been paid out. A second attempt failed through a violent storm, June 20, 1858. Success awaited the third attempt, and on August 5 the first messages passed between Queen Victoria and the President of the United States. On September 4 this cable also failed, after 271 messages had been transmitted, and it was not until 1865 that another was undertaken. That was cut in mid- ocean, but another was successfully laid in July, 1866, and the one of the previous year raised and finished. A Trip to the Skelligs. One of the most interesting excursions the tourist can make, if the weather favours, is along the iron-bound coast of Kerry, keeping as close under the land as safety will permit. Apply to proprietor of Royal Hotel for particulars of trips by steam launch. The voyager beholds a panorama of in- describable magnificence. It is at the outer points and head- lands that the grandest features of Kerry scenery are found, and these are missed by the tourist who visits them only by land. Leaving Cahirciveen, Knightstown, or Portmagee, as the case may be, we are carried through the somewhat tortu- ous navigation of the channel inside the island of Valentia, crossing Foilhomurrum Bay. Our exit to the ocean is under the massive and lofty cliffs of Portmagee ; and then we thread our way through the Hog Islands — Puffin, the Lemon Rock, the two Skelligs, Molans, and many others, remarkable for their stern wildness. Some of the largest are wildernesses of bog and rock, green with mosses, ferns, lichens, and low- growing plants that require constant moisture for their support ; but without a tree or shrub of any kind. The Calf is the most southern of three remarkable rocks at the end of the great peninsula stretching between Bantry Bay and Kenmare. Two others are known as the Bull and Cow from their supposed resemblance to those animals. The Skelligs are the best known of the islands hereabouts. With the Lemon Island they form a group of lofty and widely de- CAHIRCIVEEN TO PARKNASILLA 138 tached rocks, the largest of which — the Great Skellig— is about nine miles from Bolus Head, the southern cape of county Kerry, and some twelve to the south-west of Bray Head. They are the favourite haunt of sea-birds, notably gannets ; at times, indeed, they are nearly covered with them. The larger island is an enormous mass of slaty rock, divided, at the height of about fifty yards, into two pyra- midal summits, the higher of which reaches an altitude of some 700 feet ; the other is 100 feet lower. In early times there was a monastery here, the ruins of which may still be seen ; but the island was devastated by the Danes in 812, and the monks were starved in their cells. Until recently, the island was a place of penance, and was annually visited by great numbers of devotees, who climbed the highest summits, stopping at various stations and performing orisons at each. Two lighthouses were erected on the island in 1826 and are connected by a road along the face of the cliff. Cahirciveen to Parknasilla. Outline of Route. — The drive from Cahirciveen to Park- nasilla and Kenmare is “ worked ” by a line of well-horsed four-in-hand coaches. Cahirciveen is usually left about 1.30, after luncheon, and the coach arrives at Waterville about 3.0. Those who desire can remain here and resume the journey when it suits them. (Tickets are available for two calendar months.) Others go on to Parknasilla, which is reached about 7.0. Here a halt is called for the night, and at 10 a.m. the coach goes on to Kenmare, arriving about 12.0, in ample time to catch the connecting coach to either Killarney or Glen- gariff. The hotels at Cahirciveen, Waterville, Parknasilla and .Kenmare are all that could be desired. The coach-drive along the western and southern coasts of county Kerry is extremely pleasant. At first the road runs inland, not far from the foot of the lofty hills which hem in the outlook on the left ; and for some half-dozen miles it possesses few features of interest. At a distance of seven miles, we again reach the sea, and cross the Inny, a consider- able stream which drains a large district to the east and falls into Ballinskelligs Bay. The road is carried over the river near its mouth ; and another mile or more brings us to Waterville, which stands on a narrow isthmus between Ballinskelligs Bay and Lough Currane, the second largest lake in county Kerry. IV ATERVILLE— LOUGH CURRANE 139 Waterville. Hotels. — Bay View , Butler's Arms , Great Southern, etc. Hire of Boats. —Boat and one man, is. hour,^ 5 s. day. Two men, 2 s. hour, 10s. day. The village, which bids fair shortly to become a town, is largely resorted to by anglers, who find good sport in the lough and in the many streams and lakes in the neighbour- hood. Fishing is, for the most part, free ; salmon and brown and white trout are plentiful. The first object to arrest attention on entering the place (close to the Bay View Hotel) is a handsome stone fountain erected to the memory of James Butler. Here is the junction with another road which comes directly through the mountains from Killarney, thirty-seven miles distant to the north-east, passing attrac- tive Glencar on the way ( see p. 130). The village is a tempting place of sojourn, commanding magnificent views of the Atlantic on the one hand, and of the mountains on the other ; and it is within three minutes’ walk of Lough Currane. There is excellent sea bathing, the sands being level for a considerable distance from the shore, and one of the prettiest golf courses in Ireland. The salmon hatchery is also worth a visit. Here, also, the Commercial Cable Company land two of their cables— the latest completed in 1894 ; and their station, with the houses of the officials, is quite a feature of the village. The instrument rooms and so forth may be inspected on application. Two other cables connect France, near Havre, and England, near Weston-super-Mare, with this point. Moreover, at Ballinskelligs, across the bay, directly opposite Waterville, the station of the United States Cable Company may be seen. The village is clustered on the banks of the little river, a few hundred yards in length, which carries into the bay the surplus water of — Lough Currane, about eight miles in circumference, and second only in point of size in Kerry to the Lower Lake at Killarney. Its surface is broken by numerous islets, on the largest of which, Church Island, are the ruins of a beehive oratory, built by St. Finian Cam, a holy man of the sixth century. The lake is fed by the river Cummaragh, which conveys into it the overflow of Loughs Derriana and Cloonaghlin and of other mountain 1 4 o DERRYNANE tarns, and by a smaller stream, connecting Lough Coppal or Isknagahiny with it. All these lakes can and should be visited from Waterville. The streams and lakes in the dis- trict abound in trout, and salmon may be taken in Lough Currane. Leaving Waterville, and crossing the bridge at its southern end, we enter on the most interesting section of the drive. Our road at first winds upwards, till at Coomakista Pass it is 700 feet above the sea. We get charming views of the moun- tains on the left, and of the almost circular bay, with its numberless islands, on the right. In about a mile we pass, on the left, the ruined Templenakilla Church. Driving on for about five miles, our road descends to the sea on the shore of Derrynane Bay, a small inlet of the Atlantic separ- ated from Ballinskelligs Bay by Hog’s Head and from the Kenmare estuary by Lamb Head, the most southerly cape of county Kerry. In Derrynane Bay are Scariff Island and many other rocky islets. On our right, close to the road leading to Caherdaniel, is a circular fort in remarkably good preservation. On the shore of the bay is — Derrynane, noteworthy as the home of Daniel O’Connell, and now occu- pied by his descendants. It is an irregular pile of buildings, partly castellated, and the grounds improved with shrub- beries and plantations, so far as the situation, so much exposed to westerly gales, will allow. The chapel in the building and some interesting relics can be seen by the cour- tesy of the proprietor. The ruins of Derrynane Abbey stand on a peninsula, which at spring-tides becomes isolated. Though the monastery is said to have been founded in the seventh century by the monks of St. Fin Barre, the remains are not older than the thirteenth. Here is the family grave of the O’Connells, but “ the great agitator’s ” remains repose beneath a lofty round tower in the Glasnevin Cemetery at Dublin. Close to Derrynane is a small, but snug, harbour, with a diminutive quay at which vessels of two hundred tons burthen may discharge their cargoes. Near Caherdaniel, the adjoining hamlet, is a small stone fort. We presently reach West Cove, on the northern shore of the Kenmare estuary, and then Castle Cove. A mile and a half up the valley on the left is — 141 THE LOO RIVER NEAR KENMARE, KEN MARE RIVER— SNEEM 142 Staigue Fort, one of the most perfect antiquities of Ireland, supposed to be at least 2,000 years old. Kenmare River, or Bay, as it is variously named, is an inlet of the Atlantic penetrating the land for some thirty miles ; it is five or six miles across at its widest part. If is generally voted the most beautiful of the bays which indent the shores of the Emerald Isle, though some are disposed' to give, the preference to Bantry Bay, further south. A writer in Freeman's Journal thus describes the fiord : — “The bounding peninsulas are crowded mountain lands. Along the’southern peninsula stretch the Caha and Slieve Miskish ranges, the summits of which form a varied chain, towering peak on peak, down to Dursey Island. They are in full view of the tourist as he drives along the northern shore. Now they catch the mists that come up from the Atlantic, and creep along the mountain sides ; and when the sun bursts through and disperses the shades, nothing can excel the wonder of the transformation. Cradled in the hills are high mountain lakes, occasionally drained by cascades, which flash in the sunlight as they descend down to the sea that breaks in silver foam almost at the feet of the mountains. “ The coastline of the ‘ river,’ as it is named, is broken into numberless islands, some of them arable and inhabited, others mere spots of red sandstone rising out of the fjord ; their surface covered, wherever the smallest shelter is afforded, with a profusion of vege- tation, dwarf oaks, dark-green hollies, bright green ash, and the special favourites of the region, brilliant fuchsias, which are here and there along the coast as common almost as the whitethorn in inland hedgerows.” As we proceed, a grand and everchanging panorama of the hills which on the other side of the bay separate the counties of Kerry and Cork presents itself ; and a still grander one of the high mountains round Killarney is unfolded on the left. Perhaps the most charming of the landscapes is that of the valley leading up to Coomcallee, a sharp and precipitous mountain, more than two thousand feet high, with a pretty lake lying at its foot. The view i^Sobtained at the junction of another road with that along which we are driving, as we approach our next halting place, Sneem, the chief village in the extensive parish of Killcrohane', through which we have been travelling ever since we left Darryrtane. Sneem is prettily situated at the head of an estuary formed by the Sneem river and two or three mountain streamlets. It cou- AT PARKNASILLA. 144 PARKNASILLA tains a Roman Catholic Church with a curious campanile, a Protestant Church, and a comfortable inn (Sheehan' s). Our road now turns to the south-east, and two miles from Sneem we reach that health resort of the south-west, lovely — Parknasilla. In the demesne, formerly the residence of the Bishop of Limerick, has been erected a tasteful and commodious hotel (under the control of the Great Southern and Western Rail- way Co.), to accommodate the tourists who in increasing numbers are making this place their headquarters. It is usual to stop at Parknasilla for the night, and the unhurried tourist is likely to remain longer. There are really two hotels in different parts of the grounds, the original residence and the fine new building. The grounds cover about a hundred acres, and include several islets connected by rustic bridges. The situation of Parknasilla is delightful. It stands in a nook between the bay and Knockanamadane Hill (895 feet), with wooded hills rising all around, the romantic, broken coast studded with little tree-covered islets. Mr. Ward calls it “ one of a little group of marine paradises on an inlet of the great sea lough,” and frankly owns that “ to describe the beauty of the spot is beyond us.” On the important subject of climate a writer in the Dublin Journal of Medical Science says of Parknasilla : — “ Its well-sheltered position amidst a number of islets, thickly wooded down to the water’s edge, has endowed it with unique advantages. This protective area prevents the access of all winds except those coming from the warmer points, viz., south and south- west ; these winds, before reaching the southern coast of Ireland, having travelled over the Gulf Stream, and being thus subjected to its moderating and balmy influence. “ Mountain protection is of supreme importance in the choice of a health-resort, more especially in the winter and spring seasons of the year. In this regard Parknasilla is exceptionally favoured, a mountainous range closely guarding and protecting it from the northerly and easterly winds. The combination of mountain, wood and water gives a special charm to this locality ; and a convincing evidence of the mildness of the winter and early spring here is the forward character of the vegetation, the early budding of the trees, shrubs and flowers. “ The position of this favoured and sheltered sea inlet upon the isothermal map shows it to have a mean annual temperature of 52 degrees, being similar in this regard to its neighbour, Glengariff, and registering a higher mean annual temperature than Ventnor or Torquay. The mildness of the climate in the earlier spring months is of such a character that exercise can be freely partaken PARKNASILLA 145 of in the open air daily, without risk of chill ; and this to the invalid is of paramount importance. To sufferers from chronic or recurrent affections of the respiratory organs, Parknasilla, in the winter and early spring months, would appear to be indicated as a mostMesirable place of residence.” Little footbridges span the clear channels between the demesne and many of the islets, affording charming walks. To the west, reached by fifteen minutes’ pull across the mouth of the Sneem river, is the exquisitely-wooded Garinish Island, the property of the Earl of Dunraven. The island has an Killarney {l) 145 W . Lawrence,'] BLACKWATER BRIDGE. [Dublin. 146 PARKNASILLA TO KEN MARE area of fifty-eight acres. Boating, bathing, fishing, and mountain-climbing may all be enjoyed to perfection in this favoured locality. The adventurous may row or sail right across the bay to Derreen, the seat of the Marquis of Lans- downe. Derreen would make just such another delightful haven for the holiday-maker as Parknasilla or Glengariff, but his lordship will not permit the erection of a hotel. Parknasilla to Kenmare. The coach leaves Parknasilla about io.o a.m. for the remaining fifteen miles’ drive to Kenmare. The road lies high above, but close to, the sea. We pass the head of Coongar Harbour, which is sheltered by Rossmore Island, one of the largest in the estuary. The best part of the drive is reached at a distance of six miles as we descend the wooded slopes to the Blackwater, one of the many rivers of that name in Ireland, and distinguished from others as the “ Kerry ” Blackwater. It runs merrily along, between banks so high that the two-arched bridge by which we cross is quite 60 feet above the surface of the water. The coach stops for a few minutes to allow passengers to pass beneath the bridge, an opportunity which none should neglect. The stream tumbles over numerous rocks and forms many pretty cascades in its course to Kenmare Bay — now so rapidly narrowing as to be scarcely two miles across. But before mingling its fresh water with the briny waves of the sea, the Blackwater again expands and forms a snug little harbour, useful to small coasting vessels. The Blackwater is famous for salmon. There is a carriage-road from Blackwater Bridge, via the Gap of Ballaghbeama, to Glencar (15^ miles, or from Parknasilla, 22). This road, a great part of which is com- paratively new, is the one referred to on p. 132. A mile or two to the west are the pretty Cloone Lakes. Near the bridg3 over the Blackwater is the Castle of Dromore, a Gothic building, with beautiful grounds in which are the ruins of Cappanacuss Castle. The road passes Lough Brinn, near which a road (which may be traversed by an outside car but is not practicable for carriages) turns off to the Upper Lake of Killarney and the Gap of Dunloe. Just off the coast are the Greenan and the Dunkerron Islands, the former chain joined to the shore at low water. Three miles from the bridge we pass the ruins of Dunkerron Castle, like Cappa- nacuss once a seat of the O’Sullivans. KEN MARE 147 Kenmare. Hotels. — Southern and Lansdowne Arms. Places of Worship, with the hours at which the Sunday services commence : — Church of Ireland — 12.0 | Roman Catholic — 8.30 and 12.0. Station. — Terminus of branch line from Killarney. Kenmare is a fairly prosperous market town, at the head of the beautiful estuary to which it gives its name ; or, rather, from which it receives its name, for, according to Dr. Joyce, Kenmare signifies “ head of the sea.” The town is chiefly interesting to tourists from its position as a kind of coaching junction, being the half-way place between Glen- gariff and Killarney, and the terminus of the Kerry coast tour. It also possesses a lively interest from the fact that it is the halting-place for luncheon, for which, after a long mountain drive, most passengers are more than ready. Whether the Southern or the less pretentious Lansdowne be patronised, good value is given. Kenmare was originally known as Nedeen, and owes its existence to Sir William Petty, the ancestor of the Marquis of Lansdowne, the prin- cipal owner of the land hereabouts. Petty, having obtained a grant of land, planted a colony of Englishmen here in 1670. They established' a fishery and iron works on an extensive scale ; but were harrassed by the Irish, and surrendering, after some resistance, were allowed to embark for Bristol, scantily supplied with provisions. On the conquest of Ire- land by William III, the colony was re-established and the fishery resumed ; but the forests were soon exhausted, and the iron trade declined through want of fuel. To-day, Kenmare consists of a main street, leading from the market square, with a few others diverging from it. There is a good pier a little to the west of the town ; and the bay is crossed by the Lansdowne Suspension Bridge, the first structure of the kind in Ireland. It forms a striking object in the landscape. The Catholic Church is a spacious edifice, with a lofty spire, and is handsomely decorated, thanks to the munificence of the Marquis of Lansdowne and others. The adjoining Convent of Poor Clares is, however, the most im- portant feature of the town, and should be seen by all who have the time. Specimens of the famous Kenmare lace, made at the convent, can be seen and bought at the hotels, but no one will regret visiting the institution itself. It is wonderful to see how the devoted nuns^succeed in training their young pupils. Even the mere man will marvel at the delicacy and 148 KEN MARE TO KILLARNEY BY RAIL beauty of the designs. Some of the lace is valued at its weight in gold. It won the first place in the South Kensington com- petition of 1886, and has held its own at other exhibitions — notably at the Chicago World’s Fair in 1893. The girls also excel in singing. The convent is a handsome building, in a cheerful sunny situation, surrounded with shrubberies and flower-beds, and adorned with some marble statues. Kenmare to Killarney. Many visitors prefer to take the coach, which runs daily from Kenmare to Killarney, rather than the train. The coach drive, part of the famous Prince of Wales Route, is described the reverse way on pp. 149-152. We will therefore here assume that travellers to Killarney avail themselves of the branch railway via Headford — one of those commenced in 1891 by the aid of a grant from the British Government. It was opened in September, 1892, and is about twenty miles long, joining the Killarney and Tralee Railway at Headford Junction, the station next to Killarney. The line runs through a winding valley, bounded on both sides by rugged and barren mountains, which extend for miles in each direc- tion. The student of geology will be interested by the abundant evidences of glacial action. The first station is at Kilgarvan, where the road to Macroom continues eastward, while the line turns northward. Another road runs south- ward to Bantry, crossing the Slaheny, and passing near Lough Nambrackderg on the way. Leaving Kilgarvan, the line runs through fine scenery, along the course of the Loo river, a feeder of the Flesk. There are stations at Morley’s Bridge and Loo Bridge. We have Mangerton ( see p. 93) very much in evidence on the left all the way. After crossing the Flesk, we arrive at Headford Junction, where carriages are changed for Kil- larney. KILLARNEY TO CORK, BY THE PRINCE OF WALES ROUTE. Killarney to Kenmare by Coach or Rail — Kenmare to Glen- gariff by Coach (stay for night) — Glengariff to Bantry, by Coach or Steamer — Bantry to Cork, by Cork, Bandon and South Coast Railway. OURISTS who have come to Killarney direct by rail via Mallow, should make a point of returning via Glen- gariff and Cork, thus completing a delightful circular tour. There are now two ways of doing this, (i) By the popular Prince of Wales Route described below, and (2) by what is known as the Tourists’ i\ Route, vid\ Macroom, described in the next chapter. Whichever route is chosen, the journey is the same from Killarney to Glengariff. Of course both routes are available also for the journey in the reverse direc- tion from Cork to Killarney, as indicated on pp. 7-8. The coach drive from Killarney to Glengariff is one of the finest in the three kingdoms. A start is made from New Street about 9.30 a.m„, the coach calling at the principal hotels before finally getting under way. When the Muck- ross Hotel at the pretty village of Cloghereen is reached, a halt is called for the examination of tickets. We drive past the entrance to the Tore Cascade, and commence the long ascent. At almost every point scenes of the greatest beauty present themselves. The wealth of foliage — fir, beech, ash, oak, arbutus, holly — and the profusion of ferns of all sizes and sorts form a marked contrast to the bare mountain heights and moorland wastes that are shortly to be passed. It has well been said, “ The mingling of soft foliage and bare rocks is a delightful feature of Irish scenery, and seems to carry out faithfully the wildness and tenderness, the poverty and refinement of the people.” Farther on, the Long Range is passed, and magnificent views of the Eagles’ Nest, Purple Mountain, Glena Bay, and Derrycunnihy Cascade can be obtained. To the left the lofty Tore Mountain and Manger- 149 150 THE PRINCE OF WALES ROUTE ton tower above us. We presently reach the tunnel shown in our illustration on p. 91. At Mulgrave Police Barracks the tourist bids farewell to the lakes. “ No description/’ it has been well said, “ can convey any adequate idea of the loveliness of the scene which presents itself from this spot ; looking back towards Killarney the eye beholds a deep and wondrous valley, in the bosom of which the whole of the three lakes lie like sheets of silver. Mr. Justin PI. McCarthy thus eloquently described his impressions of Killarney, evidently with this scene in his mind : — “ I know of lovely lakes elsewhere ; I know of none more lovely than Killarney. I am not sure that I can say that I know of any quite as lovely, with the peculiar, haunting loveliness of the Irish lakes. The spirits of the mist seem to brood over those beautiful waters, softening with their caresses all forms and colours into the rarest, into the finest harmony, suffusing them with a liquid light that is at times almost unearthly in its beauty. These wooded hills, where still — or is that a legend and a dream ? — the red deer lingers, those great sheets of water that change their mood and their aspect with every changing hour, and are always beautiful, steep the mind of the beholder in a sensuous delight that is hard to describe in words. To me the lakes, like all beautiful scenes in nature, look their best in the splendour of a summer’s day, when the waters are very still, when the woods are hushed in the heat, when the spell of the golden sunlight is upon everything. Then Killarney is an earthly paradise, then the youth of the world seems to have re- turned. But on dark days when storm is threatening, or in those hours when the threatened storm breaks and the water blackens under the rain and races into great waves before the wind, then, too, Killarney is beautiful with a beauty that is wild but not terrible. Killarney’ s woods and waters may inspire awe when the thunder is rumbling among the hollows of the hills and the lightning is cutting slices out of the livid sky, but it never inspires terror. Its angers are the hot furies of a friend, not the forbidding wraths of an enemy. In storm or in sunshine, there is a charm about the place that is all its own, a charm that it would be worth while to travel thousands of miles to experience and to appreciate.” The scenery now becomes more wild and rugged. “ Some- times the road borders precipices of frightful depth over- looking glens and valleys that spread away as far as the eye can reach ; streams are passed that dash down the rocks in sheets of foam, and valleys that look wildly desolate because of the great stones that strew them.” At Windy Gap we have a fine view northward of Macgilly- cuddy’s Reeks, the prominent hollow so conspicuous being the Gap of Dunloe. Loosecaunaugh Lough, a mile-long sheet of water, marks the half-way stage to Kenmare, and we pull THE PRINCE OF WALES ROUTE 15 1 up at a wayside inn while the horses are watered. In a couple of miles a road runs off westward to Sneem and Parknasilla (13 miles), but we turn southward, winding round the moun- R. Welch,] [ Belfast . FALLS IN SHEEN VALLEY, KENMARE. tains by the long descent to Kenmare (see p. 147), where a halt is called for luncheon at either the Great Southern Hotel or the Lansdowne Arms. Dainty specimens of the beautiful 152 KEN MARE TO GLENGARIFF Kenmare lace are generally exhibited at the hotels, but those with time to spare will do well to go on to the Convent. Resuming the journey, we cross the estuary by the pretty Suspension Bridge. The road which bears off westward down the river leads in about eight miles to a pretty chain of lakes well worth visiting by those who are staying at Kenmare, and known as the Clonee Loughs. We, however, follow the course of the Sheen river southward, the road steadily ascending the Caha Mountains, said to contain three R. Welch,] [Belfast. THE GREAT TUNNEL ON THE KENMARE ROAD. hundred and sixty-five lakes, or one for each day in the year. The ranges around Killarney gradually become more and more indistinct in the distance. Near the summit of the ridge ahead we get a glimpse of the series of Tunnels by which the road penetrates the mountain. The first tunnels are in- significant, but at a height of 1,200 feet we plunge into a much longer one, the length of which can be judged from the illustration above. On emerging into daylight again, we have quitted the county of Kerry and are in Cork. A halt is made by some poor wayside cabins while the horses are watered. The prospect ahead is very fine, showing all GLENGARIFF 153 the mountains grouped about the head of Bantry Bay, to- wards which we now descend, great valleys, with here and there a mountain tarn, stretching away on either hand. The prominent height to the right is the Sugarloaf. Presently a glimpse is caught of the sparkling sea, and the driver points out, far below, the village of Glengariff, almost buried in foliage. But though the actual distance to the Glen is only five or six miles, it takes no little time to get down, the steep- ness of the mountain and the windings of the road necessi- tating a constant application of the brake. It is a remarkable tribute to the carefulness and competence of the drivers on this route that not a single accident has happened since it has been opened for tourist traffic. The driver will point out Lord Bantry' s Shooting Lodge some distance away on the right, and ahead the tourist will see for himself the noble expanse of Bantry Bay, and the island-dotted harbour of Glengariff. Note Contributed by Correspondent (we have not personally tested this divergence. Ed.). — Between Kenmare and Glengariff is the best mountain view in the south of Ireland, but as it lies apart from the coach-road it is apt to be overlooked. Seven and a half miles from Kenmare the coach passes a Roman Catholic chapel. If time permits, the tourist, would do well to dismount and take the road which leads to the left, following it until it conies, by rather a bad surface, to the very top of the hill which divides the Kenmare valley from the Glengariff valley. Excepting the last portion — about one hundred yards — the road is a gentle incline and is quite negotiable by easy walkers. From the top is the best view of the whole of the mountains of Kerry- — the Sugarloaf being most pro minent. They lie, an enormous panorama in brilliant purple, at one’s feet. Southward is beautiful Glengariff — the village being three miles of rather hard descent from the summit, the whole distance from the Chapel to Glengariff being about 4! miles. The walker will miss portions of the coach-road, especially that which includes the long tunnel, but he will be more than repaid by one of the best views of mountain, valley and sea which can be obtained anywhere. In actual distance, this road is somewhat shorter than the coach route (say 12^ miles against 18 miles). Glengariff. Hotels. — For Tariffs see Introduction. As the traveller is in any case bound to stay at least a night at Glengariff, and Saturday arrivals must remain until Monday morning, the subject of hotel accommodation is one of some im- portance. The Eccles is close to the shore at the head of the bay. It is a comfort- able establishment, surrounded by lovely grounds, and conveniently situated for water trips. It has the advantage of possessing an excellent library. Coming from Kenmare it is the first hotel called at, but the last in the reverse direction from Bantry. Roche's is about a mile from the Eccles, and is the first hotel reached in coming from Bantry. It stands on higher ground than the Eccles , and its mountain view, with three pyramid-like peaks for background, is superb. 1 54 GLENGA RIFF The grounds are very extensive, and a path leads down the hill and through a pretty wood to the water. The Belle Vue is about midway between the other two, and is a less expensive establishment. There are two or three lodging-houses in the village where apartments can be had. During the height of the season it is as well to write or wire beforehand to the hotel of one’s choice, as the accommodation is sometimes severely taxed. Post Office, in village, about 200 yards west of Eccles Hotel. Steamers to Bantry daily in connection with trains and coaches. Heights of Mountains near Glengariff : — - Sugar Loaf . . . 1,887 feet. I Hungry Hill . . . 2,251 feet. Cobduff .... 1,244 „ j Shrone Hill . . . 919 „ “ Language utterly fails,” declares Mr. S. C. Hall, “ to convey even a limited idea of the exceeding beauty of Glen- gariff, which merits to the full the enthusiastic praise that has been lavished upon it by every traveller by whom it has been visited. It is a deep Alpine valley, enclosed by pre- cipitous hills, about three miles in length, and seldom exceed- ing a quarter of a mile in breadth. Black and savage rocks embosom, as it were, a scene of surpassing loveliness, endowed by nature with the richest gifts of wood and water ; for the trees are graceful in form, luxuriant in foliage, and varied in character, and the rippling stream, the strong river, and the foaming cataract are supplied from a thousand rills collected in the mountains. Beyond all, is the magnificent bay, with its numerous islands, by one of which it is so guarded and sheltered as to receive the aspect of a serene lake. The artist cannot do it justice, and the pen must be laid aside in de- spair.” In the glen itself the sternest grandeur is softened by the tenderest loveliness. “ Mountains are rent and rifted as if some convulsion of nature had shaken and torn them, up- heaving their strata and serrating their wild summits, whilst their bases repose in woods and meadows of the softest ver- dure. Peaks rise above peaks lofty and bald, merging their frowning rocks in the shifting Atlantic mists ; beneath are smiling valleys, gemmed with myriads of flowers.” “ Were such a bay lying upon English shores,” said Thack- eray, in often quoted words, “ it would be a world’s wonder.” It is that now, and it is perhaps just as well that the Glen, as the local people affectionately call it, does not lie upon English shores, or its charm would probably have been spoilt long ago. As an American writer put it, “ What appears chiefly to impress the mind in this secluded region is the deep GLENGA RIFF 155 conviction that there is no dramatic effect in all you behold ; no pleasing illusion of art, that it is nature you contemplate, such as she is, in all her wildness, and all her beauty.” The charm of Glengariff is due first of all to its exquisite com- bination of water, woodland, and mountain, and secondly to its air of soft seclusion and tranquillity. So peaceful and quiet is the scene that a shout, or even laughter, seems a desecration of Nature. W. Lawrence ,] [ Dublin . AT GLENGARIFF. Glengariff, “ the Rough Glen,” is sixty-nine miles from Cork, and thirty-eight from Killarney, and, as its name implies, is a deep Alpine valley, about six miles in length and a quarter in breadth. The hills enclosing it are of the wildest description, singularly broken and irregular in their outline. Rocks and stones, some of enormous dimensions, are flung together in strange confusion, but the roughness is relieved by a variety of luxuriant foliage ; for the bases of GLENGARIFF 156 the hills and every crevice and hollow are filled with trees and shrubs which grow to great perfection. The arbutus, the yew, and the holly seem native to the place, as also many American and tropical cryptogamia and flowering plants. The glen is surrounded on the north, east, and west by moun- tains, and is thus effectually sheltered from easterly, north- erly, and north-westerly winds. It opens southward on to a lovely inlet of Bantry Bay, and the breezes which reach it from this quarter have all been tempered by the Gulf Stream. The air is consequently genial and soft, without being ener- vating or relaxing. During the winter the thermometer in the sun occasionally reaches 83°, and seldom falls below 40°. An overcoat is rarely wanted ; and there is an absence of fogs which renders the place peculiarly suitable for persons suffering from consumption, chronic catarrh, and other pulmonary diseases. The genial nature of the climate is evidenced by the almost tropical luxuriance of the vege- tation. The village itself is small. It is, in fact, more in accord- ance with the fitness of things to describe the village as being near the Eccles Hotel, than to say that the Eccles Hotel is near the village. The Protestant Church is a modern building, with a comfortable glebe house attached, picturesquely situated over one of the inlets of the bay. The new Roman Catholic Church replaces a plain unsightly structure that was out of character with the beauty of the place. Recognising the futility of all verbal descriptions of Glen- gariff, and indeed of most photographic ones, we hasten to indicate three charming View Points, which will enable readers to judge for themselves. (1) From Roches Hotel follow the main road towards Bantry for about a mile. You pass the lodge gates of Glengariff Castle, and shortly notice a turning on the right, running off at a tangent and leading down a slope, a small sand quarry being noticeable a little way down in the wooded bank above. At the bottom of the slope turn rightward, across somewhat flat ground, towards the water. Above, to the right, is a steep knoll. A scramble over the rough boulders and through the bracken brings one to the top. Be careful to go as far as possible towards the water, as the view from the edge of the cliff is much more comprehensive. This look- out is called O’Leary’s Point, and, though little known, commands the best view of the glen in its entirety. Below there is the horse- shoe-like lake or harbour, dotted with small islands, upon one of which a martello tower is conspicuous. If a few yachts are about, so much the better for the picture. From the edge of the water, on all sides save one, rises a sloping belt of foliage, pretty Glengariff GLENGARIFF 15 7 Castle, a private residence, being conspicuous in the midst of it. The one side that is not girdled by woodland shows a stretch of open sea, with Whiddy Island in the distance. The woodland is succeeded by bare mountain slopes, crowned by the sharply-defined peaks of the Sugar Loaf , Throne Hill , or the Little Sugar Loaf, and the Gowlbeg Mountain. Further westward is Hungry Hill. The green peak behind us is Cobduff (the ascent is easy, and the way obvious from the high-road). We have no hesitation in declaring that this view, seen under favourable circumstances, is hardly to be beaten in the British Isles. (2) From the Eccles Hotel, walk through the village to the turn- ing on the left which crosses the stream just beyond Cromwell’s Bridge ( see below). A few yards from the stream is a gateway on the right, opening on to a cart-track. Follow this as it winds for a mile or more, steadily uphill, until near another gate, when a rough path will be seen leading up the steep crag to the left. Be careful in wet weather not to get into the sticky bed of the tiny stream which here tumbles down. Some boys or beggars are generally about, and though somewhat of a nuisance their assist- ance may save trouble. The view makes a good companion picture to No. 1 on the opposite side of the bay, and need not again be described, though, of course, the mountain outlines are very different. (3) Some two miles from the village, on the Kenmare road, there is a narrower road turning sharply to the right, straight up the hill- side. This road affords the widest view of the Glen, as No. 1 affords the most effective. But it is the only spot from which the full effect of the foliage and the exquisitely green-blue water can be obtained. The tourist will not begrudge the exertion given to an apparently tough climb. Cromwell’s Bridge is picturesque when seen from the road (first on left from Eccles Hotel, near Post Office), but far more so from the water. It is a simple structure of two arches, long since fallen to ruin, and now moss-clad and ivy-grown. The story runs that Cromwell, on his way to remonstrate in that gentle way of his with certain refractory O’Sullivans, experienced considerable difficulty in fording the river, then in flood. He thereupon sent for the natives and threatened that if a bridge was not built by the time of his return he would hang a man for every hour he was delayed. Needless to say, no time was lost in meeting his wishes. Excursions are made up daily from the hotels to the numerous beauty spots in the neighbourhood, but there are really so many of these that we can only mention the chief. Frankly, Glengariff is not a place one wants to “ excursion- ise ” from. When the nearer walks and view points are exhausted, there is always the harbour ; and it would be easy to idle away a whole week in simply rowing or sailing in and out of the numerous creeks and round the islands. W. Lawrence , ] [ Dublin . Cromwell’s bridge, glengariff. certainly prove a formidable rival to Queenstown when the proposed lines to Bantry and Kenmare are constructed. The haven formed by Bear Island is strongly fortified. At the eastern or seaward entry of the haven stand the ruins of Dunboy Castle, which furnished the late Mr. J. A. Fronde with a title and some material for his novel, The Two Chiefs of Dunboy. The cyclist can return by the road over the Slieve Miskish Mountain to the south shore of Kenmare river, and thence eastward by way of Ardgroom and Kilma- killoge Harbours, Derreen (a seat of the Marquis of Lans- downe), and Clonee Lakes, to Kenmare, The whole round 1 5 8 CASTLETO WN BE A RHA VEN There is the best of sport, too, for rod and gun. For those who must wander, there is the drive or walk to Lord Bantry’s Shooting Box, with its pretty demesne. A longer trip is to the lofty Adrigole Waterfall (12 miles westward), and Hungry Hill (2,251 feet). By cycling, or taking the mail-car, one can get as far in this direction as Castletown Bearhaven (22 miles), a tiny town with one or two good inns, chiefly known to fame in connection with autumnal naval manoeuvres. A project has been mooted for making it a Transatlantic port, and it will GLENGA RIFF TO BANTRY 159 is about 69 miles, and at least two days should be given to it. During the summer a small steamer runs daily between Castletown and Bantry. The mountaineer may care to make the ascent of the Sugar- loaf (1,887 feet). The distance is about seven miles from the Eccles Hotel, but a whole day will be required and lunch should be taken. As there are several routes to the summit, local guidance should be sought, but a fairly simple ascent may be made by following the Bearhaven road until about a mile beyond the inlet known as Cooberagh Harbour. Here turn to the right and ascend the south-eastern slope of the mountain. A fine view is gained of the whole extent of Bantry Bay. Half a mile on the Castletown Bearhaven road is an iron gate. Here there is a road to the right passing Lady Bantry’s Look-Out, which affords a capital evening walk for those who wish to see really effective colour. By taking a sharp road to the right one comes back to the main road again. Yet another good trip can be made by the coach which leaves daily about 1 1 for the Kyber-like Pass of Keimaneigh and Gougane Barra, with its holy lake. The return to Cork can now be made this way via Macroom : the route is fully described in the reverse direction on pp. 174-7. Glengariff to Bantry. Assuming that the Prince of Wales Route is adhered to, the tourist has a choice of several coaches daily for the ten and a half miles to Bantry. The coaches start from the Eccles, calling at the Belle Vue and Roche's on the way. The road skirts the harbour and the head of Bantry Bay, and we have heard it not inaptly described by an Irishman as “ the most windingest in creation.” The cyclist never knows what may be round the next corner — pigs, cows, or coaches — so it is well to be wary. The views of the bay are pretty, but call for no remark. We cross the Coomhola river at Snave Bridge, from which point a fine level road runs northward to Kil- garvan. In another mile and a half we reach the junction of several roads at Ballylicky Bridge. One (not recommended for cyclists) follows first the course of the Coomhola and then the Slaheny river to Kilgarvan (24 miles). Another is the road which follows the river Owvane eastward to Keim- aneigh and Gougane Barra, and so to Macroom and Cork. Our own road continues round the bay for another four miles i6o GLENGARIFF TO BANTRY to Bantry, where the coach drive terminates and we are in touch with railways again. An alternative to the coach route is provided by the steamer Lady Elsie which plies daily between Glengariff and Bantry. Tickets by the Prince of Wales Route are avail- able by either coach or steamer. OTTER ISLAND, GLENG. TO OUR READERS. Every care has been taken in the compilation of this volume to render it accurate and trust- worthy. But it is the lot of all human beings — even of editors of Guide Books, who, of all men, should be most careful — to err. In this busy age, too, changes take place, both in town and country, with marvellous rapidity, and thwart at times the efforts of the most painstaking writer. We should, therefore, esteem it a favour, should any of our readers discover errors, either of omission or commission, in these pages, if they would promptly inform the Publishers. Such communications will be thankfully acknowledged, and the inaccuracies rectified. THE EDITOR. A d dr ess — Messrs. Ward, Lock & Co., Ltd., Warwick House , Salisbury Square, London , E.C. BANTRY 161 Bantry. Hotels. — Railway and Vickery's. Coaches to and from Glengariff about four times daily during season. Steamship Princess Beara plies daily in summer between Bantry and Castletown Bearhaven, in connection with trains from Cork. Fares : — First class single, 4/6 ; first return, 7/- ; second class, single, 3/6 ; second return, 6/- Through tickets are issued between Cork and Castletown Bearhaven. The steamer Lady Elsie (launched 1906) also plies daily between Glengariff and Bantry in connection with trains and coaches. Railway. — Terminus of Cork, Bandon, and South Coast line, 57J miles to Cork, Refreshment Room at station. Bantry is said to derive its name from Ban-tra, the “ white strand.” The strand is indisputable, though the construction of the pier and sea-wall has improved a great part of it out of existence, but we do not see where the whiteness comes in. Probably Dr. Joyce is more correct in deriving the name from Beann (Ban), one of the sons of Conor MacNessa, King of Ulster in the first century, and ancient owner of this district. Most people simply go through Bantry without making a stay, but one or two days can be profitably spent in the little market town. There is a good bathing-stage, and the bay affords every facility for yachting and boating. The town stands near the head of the spacious bay of the same name. The visitor should, if time allows, call at the Bantry Woollen Mills. Here he will find an interesting example of an industry which was once a leading one in Ireland, and which, from the strides it has lately made, promises to occupy the same posi- tion again in the near future, owing to the absolute purity and durability which are gaining such an enviable reputation for Irish friezes, tweeds, and homespuns. The mill, to which access can readily be had, is only a few yards from Vickery's Hotel ; and the wool, which is grown on the hardy native mountain sheep of the district, can be seen in every stage of manufacture. Bantry is the seat of a considerable sea-borne trade, and a number of small coasting vessels may generally be seen moored off the town. The chief feature of the town is the beautiful view down and across the spacious bay, with its background of sharply defined peaks — Hungry Hill, the Sugar Loaf, and the long range of the Caha Mountains. Bantry House, the seat of Mr. Leigh- White, nephew of the late Earl of Bantry (the title is now extinct), should on no account be missed. It is the show-place of the town. Follow the main street seaward from the hotels, skirting the water’s edge. At the end of the long line of wharves is a solid stone gatehouse, by which admission is gained. Visitors are allowed Killarney (m) 162 BANTRY to wander freely about the grounds and terraces , and in the park, but the house is not shown. From the terraces behind the mansion an exquisite view is obtained, though the featureless Whiddy Island is somewhat in the way. The park can be left by the western gateway, close to a large, sheet of water separated from the sea by the high-road. The pretty cascade in the park ought first to be seen, however. An iron gate on the seaward side of the road gives on to a path leading up- wards to a finely placed but neglected Cemetery, from whence a delightful view across the bay can be had. The Drive round Dunmanus and Bantry Bays, about 35 miles. This is a fine six hours’ drive, for which circular tickets are issued from Cork. Lunch can be taken in the car, but a good hotel has recently been opened at Ahakista, on the shore of Dunmanus Bay, 12 miles from Bantry. The chief charm of the "drive is due to the fact that the sea is close at hand all the way, except for the first 7 miles or so to Durrus. We drive past a succession of pretty coves, with fine views across Dunmanus Bay of Mount Gabriel (1,339 feet) and the rugged coast-line to Three Castle Head and Mizen Head. At Ahakista, as already stated, is a good hotel. When about two-thirds of the way down the promon- tory we reach the sequestered village of Kiilcrohane, and turning rightwards commence the steep ascent of Seefin (1,136 feet). How the horse manages 'to drag the car up is a mystery, and tourists will probably be glad of the oppor- tunity of stretching their legs and showing mercy at the same time, particularly as the road winds so much that the scrambler by path has only about half the distance to go. The backward view is magnificent, but is surpassed, if only the mountain be free from mist, by that which bursts on the gaze in front when the summit is reached. The whole stretch of Bantry Bay, certainly one of the finest in the world, lies before one. Across the water is the strongly fortified Bear Island, sheltering the harbour and town of Castletown Bear- haven ( see p. 158). Behind the island tower the Slieve Miskish and Caha' Mountains. To westward is the bound- less ocean, and eastward we have, as we turn and slowly descend, a sight of the Bay as far as Whiddy Island. The road during the first part of the homeward journey must be something like a thousand feet above the sea, which it directly overhangs. Bantry Bay, - it should be said, is twenty-one miles long and from six to eight wide. It affords safe anchorage for ships of the largest tonnage. The depth of water at the entrance is about forty fathoms, and the largest warships can BANTRY 163 anchor in almost any part of the bay. Bantry Bay is every year the scene of important naval manoeuvres. During the summer a small steamer plies daily between Bantry and Castletown Bearhaven in connection with trains from Cork. The bay is historically interesting as having been the scene of two attempted invasions by the French. In 1689, their fleet, which brought to Ireland the ex-king of Great Britain, James II, entered. In a very short time, the English fleet, under Admiral Herbert, bore down in pursuit ; but, being W. Lawrence ,] [. uubnn . BANTRY HOUSE AND THE BAY. inferior in force, were compelled to sail out again, after a brisk engagement. In 1796, the French, with about fifteen thousand men intended for the invasion of Ireland, again put to sea, appointing Bantry Bay as their rendezvous. Scat- tered by a storm, in which one-fourth of the ships were lost, only a remnant of the armament reached the Irish coast ; and General Hoche, the commander-in-chief, not having joined them, the vessels which had cast anchor did not deem it prudent to disembark their forces. Having lost an oppor- BAN TRY 164 tunity of landing without opposition, they sailed again for France, on the 27th of January, after a stay of five days in the bay. The consternation this event produced all over the country was intense, and the Government at once erected fortifications at Bantry to prevent a future surprise. It was here that the crew of the Temeraire (the old battle- ship of Turner’s famous painting) mutinied; but the firm- ness of Admiral Eyles probably saved his own life and the lives of his officers. He had twenty of the ringleaders seized and taken to Spithead, where thirteen of them were hung from the yard-arm. Whiddy Island, formerly Lord Bantry’s deer-park, comprises an area of about 1,218 acres, and is remarkable for the diversified quality of its soil. A black shaly substance, soft and unctuous, re- sembling black-lead, found on the northern side, was at one time highly valued in the neighbourhood for its supposed medicinal qualities. There are some relics of an old church, with a cemetery attached ; and on the eastern point of the island are the ruins of a castle built in the reign of Henry VI by O’Sullivan Bere. Though apparently so near, it is almost a mile and three-quarters from Bantry. At Bantry, we are at the end of— The Cork, Bandon, and South Coast Railway, a line which connects the town with Cork and which, by means of its branches and affiliations, opens up communica- tion with the principal harbours in the much-indented coast of South-West Ireland. The line has a connection with the quay at Bantry, a very useful addition to the commercial conveniences of the town. The carriages on the line are roomy and comfortable, and the saloons are so arranged that the views on either side can be fully enjoyed. The prominent hill to northward, after passing the small station of Durrus Road, is Mount Owen (1,762 feet), the source of three rivers, which flow in opposite directions — the Bandon falling into the sea at Kinsale, the lien below Skibbereen, and the Mealagh into Bantry Bay. Drimoleague is the junction for the Skibbereen and Balti- more line. The break of journey is somewhat inconvenient, but there is a good deal to interest the tourist in this almost unexplored corner of Erin. Skibbereen is, in its turn, the SICIBBEREEN 165 junction for the light railway which now runs to Schull, some fifteen miles further west, so that the district is fairly well provided with means of locomotion. The Skibbereen and Baltimore Branch runs southward to the coast, having a station at Madore, about half-way between the junction and — Skibbereen. Hotels. — lien Valley, Eldon, etc. Circular Excursions from Cork to Skibbereen by rail, thence by coach to Glan- dore, Unionhall, Leap, Lough Hyne, etc. See time-table of Cork, Bandon, and South Coast Railway. Skibbereen is a town of about 3,000 inhabitants, standing at the spot where the Hen widens out to form the creek. The town is unattractive, and has suffered severely during successive famines. A walk or drive that should not be missed is that to Lough Hyne (about 4 miles), a kind of marine cul de sac, with a very narrow inlet from the sea. The country is wild and desolate in the extreme, but the immediate surroundings of the lough are picturesque. In the centre is an islet, on which are the ruins of an old castle of the O’Donnells ; and on the shore is one of those grave- yards devoted exclusively to the burial of children to be found nowhere but in Ireland. Toe Head, to the eastward of the lough, commands a singularly beautiful scene. The Stags, three rocks of un- usual height, are between us and the land, and the ocean is flecked with small islets, around which the sea dances and sparkles in the sunlight. The head terminates the western promontory which shuts in Castle Haven, at the head of which is Castletownshend (several Inns), of old known as Sleugleig, its modern name and that of the bay being derived from a strong castle belonging to the Townsends, twice be- sieged in vain by the followers of King James during the struggle which culminated in the battle of the Boyne. In 1602, the harbour was the scene of a naval engagement between the Spaniards, under Don Pedro de Zuibar, and the British fleet, commanded by Sir Richard Levison. Unionhall and Glandore are picturesquely situated on either side of the far-reaching islet known as Glandore Harbour. Dean Swift lived for a period at Unionhall. Glandore would make a charming winter resort for invalids, the climate being noticeably mild, though this characteristic distinguishes more or less the whole of the south-west of Ireland. Leap stands at the mouth of a small stream of the same name, of old considered the boundary between civilisation 66 BALTIMORE and lawlessness ; hence the proverb, “ Beyond the Leap, beyond the law.” Now it is on the high-road between Ross- carbery and Skibbereen, and is crossed by a substantial bridge. From Skibbereen it is well to go on to the terminus of the branch line at — Baltimore, which owes its charm, from the tourist’s point of view, to the magnificent cliff walks in the neighbourhood. It is an excellent yachting and fishing station. The ramifications of W. Lawrence,} [Dublin. HARBOUR ENTRANCE AND BEACON, BALTIMORE. the great harbour are difficult to understand on account of the many islands, some of considerable size, which occupy it. The best view point is at the curious round Beacon at the extreme south-west point of the cliff, right opposite Sherkin Island. The way is easily found. Continue seawards on leaving the railway station until the road ends, then take to the cliff-path and scramble upwards, the beacon being well in sight. Care is necessary, as the cliff is steep, and there are some nasty chasms in places. The island to the south- west beyond Sherkin is Clear Island ( see p. 167). The Fastnet Rock Lighthouse lies beyond. BALTIMORE— CAPE CLEAR 167 Baltimore has a history of some interest. The owners of the soil joined the Tyrone rebellion in 1601 and placed their castles in the hands of the Spaniards. This led to the intro- duction of an English colony into the town, which was then walled and incorporated and obtained the privilege of parlia- mentary representation. In 1631 it was attacked by Algerian pirates, who massacred the inhabitants and carried off two hundred of the settlers as slaves. The Technical School of Fisheries, near the station, an institution of some importance, may be seen by visitors. There is a considerable coasting trade between Baltimore and Cork and other neighbouring ports. A rock, command- ing the harbour, is crowned by the ruins of Dunashad Castle, and the Church has a fine tower. The Harbour extends north- ward almost to Skibbereen. The largest of the islands is Sherkin, situated at the mouth of the bay. It is about three miles long by two broad, and of old contained a Franciscan abbey and a strong castle. Both were destroyed by the irate citizens of Waterford, in order to punish the piratical pro- clivities of the O’ Driscolls, the owners of this and the sur- rounding islands and of a slice of the mainland. The ruins of these edifices are interesting, but as they can be well seen from the Beacon, only enthusiastic antiquaries will go to the expense of hiring a boat to reach them. The Schull and Skibbereen Light Railway, some 15 miles long, is a useful assistance to the trade of this far west nook of Ireland, but is not greatly used by tourists. Schull nestles at the foot of brown and barren Mount Gabriel, on the shore of the sound dotted by “ Carbery’s hundred isles.” The largest of these is Cape Clear Island, three miles long by one and a half broad at its widest part. It is almost divided in two near its southern extremity. This, the highest part of the island, presents an inaccessible cliff to the sea, and — as every schoolboy knows — is the first land sighted by vessels on their approach from America. On the summit of the Fastnet Rock, distant about four miles west by south, is a lighthouse, the light of which is 148 feet above high-water mark, and is visible for eighteen miles. It has a flash of five seconds per minute. The island of Clear is called in the old Irish MSS. Irtish Damhly, and in the ecclesiastical books, Insulce Sancta Clara. It is so far from the centre of civilisation that the inhabitants have retained more of their original customs and language than is the case in any other part of the United Kingdom. Westward of Schull is another bay, of sufficient depth to 1 68 CLONAKILTY almost insulate Mizen Head (the Notium Promonlorium of Ptolemy), the extreme south-western point of Ireland. The first view of this headland, 765 feet high, is peculiarly striking. At the top is an old signal tower. A little to the south, and separated from it by Barley Cove, is Brow Head. Three Castle Head, the extreme point of Dunmanus Bay, is so named from three old fortresses of the Mahony sept. The tiny town of Goleen is the nearest headquarters for the ex- ploration of these crooked, sea-indented and almost unknown promontories. Resuming the railway journey eastward from Bantry to Cork, at Drimoleague Junction, we reach Dunmanway, formerly the seat of an extensive linen manufacture, estab- lished by Sir Richard Cox, Lord Chancellor of Ireland in the reign of Queen Anne. We now follow the course of the river Bandon, and see on the right the ruins of Ballynacarriga Castle, a square pile of buildings, standing on the summit of a rock 40 feet above the level of a lake at its foot. From Clonakilty Junction (twenty-four miles distant from Cork and four from Bandon) a short branch runs down to the sea, some nine miles distant, at Clonakilty. Hotels . — Imperial and O'Donovan’s. Clonakilty is at the head of a small inlet, the mouth of which is defended by the triangular islet of Inchdovey, on which are the remains of an old church. The bay consists of two portions, divided by a sand bar which forbids the further progress of large vessels and com- pels them to discharge their cargoes at the small village of Ring. On Galley Head, the western horn of the bay, is a powerful, modern lighthouse. Rosscarbery Bay indents the coast somewhat deeply to the west of Galley Head. Hanmer tells us that the town was once the site of “ a famous university, whereto resorted all the south-west part of Ireland for learning’s sake.” The place acquired great celebrity from the sanctity of St. Faughnan, abbot of Moelanfaidh, in county Waterford, who, removing to Rosscarbery, founded an abbey here. The church of this abbey was in due time made into the cathedral of a new see, of which the saint became the first bishop. In 1612, the cathedral was rebuilt on a new site, and the old abbey and its church were allowed to decay. Its ruins are now to the south of the cathedral, a carved head in the south wall being CO UR TMA CSHERR Y—BA NDON 169 pointed out as that of the founder. The Protestant bishopric of Ross is now united to that of Cork, and the Cathedral, of Perpendicular architecture, with a square tower and octagonal spire, is used as the parish church. The next bay westward contains the villages of Glandore, Unionhall, and Leap (see p. 165), more often visited from Skibbereen by means of the circular coach and rail tours arranged by the railway company. From Bailinascarthy Junction, the only intermediate station on the Clonakilty line, a light railway, nine miles in length, runs south-eastward to Courtmacsherry. H otels.— Esplanade, etc. Cheap Excursions from Cork daily in summer. This is a pleasant little watering-place, very popular as a summer resort with the inhabitants of Cork, Bandon and other towns in the neighbourhood. The bathing is excellent, and at Harbour View opposite there are good golf-links. The promontory is known, from the number of capes of which it consists, as Seven Heads. The former residence of the Earls of Shannon is now the Esplanade Hotel. Timoleague Abbey was erected in 1372 by the MacCarthys and dedicated to St. Mologua (hence its name, derived from ty -Mologua, “ the house of Mologua ”). It was the largest of the many religious houses in the county of Cork. The visitor is not, therefore, surprised at the grandeur of the remains, which comprise the nave, choir and south transept, with a beautiful square tower, 68 feet high, added by Edward Courcy, Bishop of Ross, in 1518. Timoleague is three miles to the west, at the head of the bay, and possesses a station. A ferry crosses the harbour to the golf links and the A tlantic Hotel at Harbour View. Bandon and Harbour View are con- nected by a service of motor ’buses. Close at hand is Kil- brittain Castle. Leaving Clonakilty Junction, we pass Castle Bernard, the princely seat of the Earl of Bandon. The mansion stands in a beautiful valley, the rising ground on either side being covered with fine trees. The conservatories, gardens and grounds are open to the public (Sundays excepted). Bandon. Hotels . — Devonshire Arms , French’s, and Temperance. Bandon, twenty miles from Cork, is an important agri- cultural centre. It has also extensive breweries and distil- leries. For tourists and pleasure seekers it possesses little i ;o BA NDON—KINSA LE interest apart from its proximity to the beautiful park of Castle Bernard. Bandon was for a long time almost exclusively Protestant, and on that account was called the Southern Derry. Indeed, the first Earl of Cork recommended it to royal favour and protection, on the ground that “ no popish recusant, or un- conforming novelist, is admitted to live in all the town ” ; and Smith, who wrote in 1750, left on record that “ in the town there is not a popish inhabitant, nor will the towns- men suffer one to dwell in it, nor a piper to play in the place, that being the music formerly used by the Irish in their wars.” It was enclosed by strong walls, and tradition has it that the corporation had the following couplet inscribed above the gateway : — “Enter here, Turk, Jew, or Atheist, Anybody but a Papist.” The same authority further records that one of the settlers of the “ old faith,” of a waggish disposition, having taken an extra glass or two, was returning at a late hour to the town when he beheld the interdiction with no little astonishment. Being of a poetical turn of mind, he inscribed with chalk beneath it the following neat repartee : — “ The lad who wrote this wrote it well, The same is on the gates of hell.” In the early part of the seventeenth century it is said that no less than 2,000 English families resided in the town and neighbourhood. The Duke of Devonshire owns the greater part of the town. For a short time previous to the passing of the Reform Bill, Bandon was represented by Lord John Russell. The line, as we continue eastward, still following the course of the Banion, presents, many picturesque features, notably near Innishannon, where the river turns southward to its outlet in Kinsale Harbour. The Meeting of the W citers of the Bandon and Brinny rivers, close to the ruins of Down- daniel Castle, is very pretty. At Kinsale Junction another branch line runs to the historic town of Kinsale, ten an l a half miles distant. Kinsale. Hotels.— Sea View, Kinsale Anns, etc. Cheap Excursions from Cork on certain days. To Old Head 0! Kinsale (rail to Kinsale, and conveyance in connection to Old Head). Wagonnette for a party not exceeding six to Old Hea’d and back costs 10/6. 171 W. Lawrence ,] KIN SALE 17 2 Kinsale is built on the slope of Compass Hill, at the mouth of the river Bandon. It has a quaint appearance, its houses, many of which are evidently of Spanish origin, rising tier above tier on sites excavated out of the solid rock, some being perched on projecting crags. The streets follow the windings of the river ; and the ruins of the old fort, which was deemed impregnable until it fell into the hands of Marl- borough in 1690, add piquancy to the outlook. There is a charming public walk, shaded by trees, around Compass Hill, which commands a series of good views of the harbour, the villages of Scilly and Summercove (the favourite quarters of summer visitors), and the entire neighbourhood. The only object of antiquarian interest in the town is the Parish Church, dedicated to, and said to have been built by, a female saint, St. Multose, or Multosia, in the fourteenth century. The church is cruciform, with a curiously shaped tower at the west end, the upper stage, of smaller dimensions than the lower portion, terminating in a broach spire. Kinsale was formerly governed under a charter of Edward III by a “ sovereign ” and other officials. It has an interest- ing history. The Spaniards frequently captured and held the place for longer or shorter periods ; and it took part in all the struggles between the Saxons and the “ native Irish,” from the time when Strongbow first subjected it to the English crown to its capture by Marlborough and the extinction of the hopes of the last of the Stuarts. J-ames II landed at Kin- sale in 1689 to commence the campaign that ended so dis- astrously for him at the Boyne. For centuries Kinsale was the most important port on the coast, and though it has long since given way to Queenstown, its harbour is capacious and well sheltered, and it is still the headquarters of the important fisheries of the south of Ireland. The fishermen of the port are daring seamen and good pilots. The harbour is protected by The Old Head of Kinsale, a bold promontory, the name of which — derived from ceann saille, “ a headland in the sea ” — is happily descriptive. The summit is crowned by a lighthouse. In the neighbourhood are the ruins of Courtaparteen Church and Ringrone Castle, the latter of which was built by Milo de Courcey, the ancestor of the present Lord Kingsale, premier baron of Ireland (the title goes back to 1181). De Courcey was selected by King John as his champion in a quarrel with Philip of France ; and, being adjudged the conqueror — his rival ran away with- out striking a blow — received as a reward for his gallantry the privilege of remaining covered in the presence of his sovereign, a privilege still preserved. KIN SALE 173 If the ferry is taken across the Harbour to Old Fort, the distance to the Old Head is only about five miles. The dis- tance by road via Garrettstown and Ballinspittle is twice as great. From Kinsale Junction the line runs on to Ballinhassig, and after threading a tunnel a mile and a half long the highest spot on the line is reached. Then we pass the ruin of Ballymacadane Abbey, founded about the year 1450 for Austin Canonesses. The remains of a Danish fort adjoin it. At Waterfall we get a good view of the “ beautiful citie of Cork ” and its environs, with the mountains in the distance. Running over the Chetwynd Viaduct, 100 feet high, we soon afterwards alight at the Albert Quay Terminus at Cork (see p. 1 7). CORK TO GLENGARIFF AND KILLARNEY BY THE MACROOM ROUTE. Cork (Capwell Station) to Macroom by Rail, 25 miles — Mac- room to Glengariff by Coach, 40 miles — Stay night at Glengariff — Glengariff to Killarney by Coach, 38 miles. For fares, times, etc., see Time-tables, or apply Traffic Manager, Cork and Macroom Direct Railway, Capwell Station, Cork, or Tourist Development Co.’s Offices, and KillarneyGlengariff. Refreshments. — It is usual to stop at Inchigeela ( Lake Hotel) for luncheon. Parties coming in the opposite direction, i.e. irom Glengariff, may be ad- vised to take luncheon with them, as the refreshments at Gougane Barra cross-roads are of a distinctly primitive kind, and it is too long to wait until the arrival of the coach at Inchigeela. The interval at Gougane Barra is, moreover, wanted for the side trip to the Lake and to St. Finn Barre’s Hermitage. LTHOUGH in reality an older route than the Prince of Wales route described in the last chapter, the Macroom, or “ Tourists ” route, was only properly opened in 1898, by the arrangement of inclusive fares for rail and coach. The road from Macroom to Glengariff has long been known to a few hardy and adventurous cyclists, but so far as tourists generally are concerned, we are safe in saying that it is almost terra incognita. We describe it here in the westward direction, as the scenery ahead is distinctly better this way ; but the route is, of course, equally available from Killarney and Glengariff, tickets being obtainable at either place, and at the principal stations of the Great Southern and Western Railway. The long chain of lakes at Inchigeela, the holy lake of Gougane Barra, and the Khyber-like Pass of Keima- neigh, make this route a very attractive one. The Capwell station at Cork is in the southern part of the city ( see plan), about a mile from St. Patrick’s Bridge. The railway journey presents some pretty pastoral scenery, but is chiefly interesting on account of the numerous ruined castles on either side. Leaving the station we obtain a passing peep of St. Joseph’s 174 THE MAC ROOM ROUTE 175 Cemetery, and glimpses of other parts of the city, and have a run of nearly seven miles to Ballincoiig (“ the town of the wild boar ”), with its barracks and gunpowder works. The conspicuous square tower is part of the ruin of a castle built by the Barretts in the reign of Edward III. About two miles from Ballincollig, at the hamlet of Ovens (a corruption of St. Owen, the patron saint of the parish), there are some noted caves in the limestone rock. Shortly after leaving Killumney station, we have, on the right, the ruins of Kilcrea Abbey, and on the left the Castle, built in 1465, by Cormac, Lord of Muskerry. A mile further are the ruins of Castlemore (“ the great castle ”), built by the MacSwineys in the fifteenth century. Close to Crookstown station is the Castle of Clogh-dha (“ the stone building of David ”), restored and used as a fishing station by the Earl of Bandon. Crossing the Lee near the station at Dooniskey, and also the rivers Sullane and Laney, we reach the terminus of the railway at — Macroom, Hotels, — Dennehy’s, Murphy s, Williams’, etc. a town of about 3,000 inhabitants. The name is variously translated as “ the plain of the croom ” (oak) and “ the crooked oak," from the large forest of oak trees which at one time grew here. The town is pleasantly situated near the junction of the Lee and the Sullane. Macroom Castle is said to have been built in the reign of King John, and is interesting as the birthplace of Admiral Sir William Penn, the father of the founder of Pennsylvania. The huge square keep is covered with beautiful variegated ivy. From Macroom a direct road runs north-west to Killarney (about 30 miles), via Ballyvourney, following the course of the river Sullane, then over the Derrynasaggart Mountains to the Flesk Valley, striking the railway near Loo Bridge station on the Kenmare- Killarney branch line. Leaving Macroom there is a choice of two roads for the first part of the journey. The driver considerately takes the higher and more difficult, “ so you can say the scenery,” as he explains. The ranges to the right are the Boggeragh and, Derrynasaggart Mountains. The island-dotted river below, to the left, is the Lee, very different here from the spacious 176 INCHIGEELA — GO U GA N E BARRA expanse of Cork Harbour. At Toon Bridge we notice the ruined tower of Dundarieke Castle, a fortress of the Mac- Carthys. Presently on the left we have Castle Masters. At Inchigeela ( Lake Hotel) a halt is called. We are now ten miles from Macroom, and thirty- four from Cork. The village is mostly resorted to by anglers, trout being plentiful in the neighbouring lakes and rivers. Boats can be hired at sixpence an hour. Leaving Inchigeela, we commence the second section of the drive. It is a noteworthy feature of this route that it presents a sample of almost every kind of scenery. Macroom to Inchigeela is chiefly interesting for the prospect ahead ; Inchigeela to Gougane Barra for the soft loveliness of the lakes ; Gougane Barra and Keimaneigh for stern, rugged, mountain scenery ; Keimaneigh to Glengariff for the fine distant seascapes and mountain backgrounds. Five miles after leaving Inchigeela village we have, close to the road, a chain of no less than six lakes or “ broads,” the largest of which is Lough Allua. The lakes are really an expansion of the Lee. With their fringe of rushes, white water-lilies and setting of firs, the waters are distinctly picturesque, though they lack the overshadowing heights which give to the lakes of Cumberland and Westmorland so much of their grandeur. The curiously shaped height to the left, which has been for some time conspicuous, is the Sheehy Mountain (1,747 feet). The mountains now close in on either side, and three miles westward of the hamlet of Ballingeary, we stop at Gougane Barra cross-roads, twenty miles from Macroom. Gougane Barra. A word of explanation is necessary. The coach-road does not actually pass the celebrated “ holy lake.” When the halt is made at the cross-roads, it is a sharp twenty minutes’ walk, mostly uphill, to the lake, following the direction indicated by the sign-post. A char-a-banc is provided for coach pas- sengers free of charge. The lake lies in a sequestered spot, environed on all save the eastern side by mountains of the steepest and most deso- late aspect, which rise abruptly to a height of 1,800 feet. The dark shadows of these great overhanging cliffs are re- flected in the glassy surface of the water. The lake itself is dark and lustrous as a polished slab of marble, and the gloomy grandeur of the cliffs is only relieved by the streams W. Lawrence ,] [ Dublin . INCHIGEELA LAKE. W. Lawrence ,] [Dublin. GOUGANE BARRA. Killarncy'in) i 77 178 GOUGANE BARRA that here and there run down their furrows like trembling silver strings. These streams unite to form the Lee, and the lake is considered its source, although its spring proper is on the side of N ad-na-uillar (“ eagles’ nest ”), a steep and all but inaccessible mountain at the western extremity. In the middle of the lake is a small wooded island, joined to the mainland on the south side by a causeway. This W. Lawyer ce,] [ Lublin . THE PASS OF KEIMANEIGH. island was, at the end of the sixth century, the chosen retreat of Saint Fin Barre, the patron saint of Cork. The ruins consist of the remains of the church, the walls of an ad- joining convent, and the rectangular court or cloister. About this enclosure are eight small circular cells. This retreat is even yet resorted to by devotees, who believe that the water of its “ blessed well ” is a specific for many bodily ailments ; and on September 29 it is annually the scene of “ patrons,’’ THE PASS OF KEIMA NEIGH 179 when Mass is celebrated in the open air. In the early part of the eighteenth century another recluse, Father O’Mahony, retired to the island, and his tomb, erected it is said by himself, is pointed out on the adjoining mainland. Returning to the main road, where the coach awaits us, we at once enter on the best part of the drive. The Pass of Keimaneigh, “ the pass of the deer,” is a stern defile, more than a mile and a quarter in length, and probably the finest thing of its kind in Ireland, though some would be disposed to give the preference to the Pass of Ballaghbeama in Kerry ( see p. 132). The mountain appears to have been rent asunder by some mighty convulsion, and the minute correspondence and similarity of the strata on each side is apparent in many places. There is only just room in the deep cleft for the narrow road and the torrent which foams beside it. Great cracked masses of rock are poised above, and threaten at any moment to fall. The summit of the pass is 700 feet above sea-level, and is the highest part of the route. On emerging, we round the unmistakable Sheehy Mountain, and have the river Owvans for company all the way down the long descent to Bantry Bay. The views ahead are, in clear weather, superb. About midway we pass the Castle of Carrignass (“ Rock of the Waterfall ”), a former seat of the omnipresent O’Sullivans, and in very fair preservation. At the. head of the bay, the road turns leftward to Bantry (see p. 161), four miles, and rightward to Glengariff (p. 153), seven miles. SCIENCE NOTES. Geology. — The central plain of Ireland is formed of Car- boniferous limestone, with few elevations, but bounded by mountainous ridges. The Kerry ranges run mostly parallel from east to west. The narrower troughs, or “ synclinals,” are Carboniferous, the broader ridges, or “ anticlinals,” are Old Red Sandstone. The former, being more easily weathered and denuded, give us the valleys and narrow fiords, the latter give us the long ranges of hills (several over 3,000 feet high), and the headlands and promontories projecting into the sea, often with the strata bent into arches. These bendings and crumplings may be plainly seen in many places — for example, where the hills are bare of vegetable growth, or where the road crosses a ridge. Thus it follows that the visible rocks are usually the older series, and were once covered by the Carboniferous strata now weathered away. Kenmare and Killarney lie in Carboniferous valleys, but on the road between these places a massive ridge of Old Red Sandstone is crossed. Here, too, glacial action is plainly visible. Kerry itself was afterwards one vast snowfield. Great glaciers travelled (according to the Rev. Maxwell Close, who has made a special study of the Ice Age in Ireland) from the lower reaches of the Shannon towards Kerry — a striking example of an uphill ice movement. The main ice- field was in the centre of Ireland, only four or five hundred feet high, but the ice travelled regardless of small local elevations, only turning aside for mountains, round which it passed. The ice marking is, however, very confused — like a crush in the Arctic seas — owing to minor ice streams. Probably the main stream was thousands of feet deep. The main direction was north-north-west to south-south-east, the glaciers ending in the sea about Cork, Kinsale, Kenmare, etc. Ice markings may be seen on the rocks about Kenmare, on the shores of Killarney, at Sneem, and even as high as 2,500 feet on the Reeks, and again at Windy Gap on the road 180 SCIENCE NOTES 1 8 1 from Kenmare to Killarney. Glacial lakes also abound in Kerry : Lough Coomanassig, 1,500 feet above the sea, is one. This basin was hollowed out by a glacier ; lower down the moraine blocked the valley, forming a second tarn — the eagle’s lough. Ice helped to deepen, if not to form, the lakes of Killarney. Rounded and polished limestone is frequently seen, and many perched blocks — one near Dunmanway weighs some thousand tons. Near Kenmare may be seen a huge block of Old Red Sandstone resting on a limestone pillar 6 feet high, while in another direction a great block of limestone is found resting on Old Red Sandstone. Chalybeate springs are common in county Cork. Good slates are also found, and copper, but the latter cannot be profitably worked. Various coloured marbles are found ; anthracite coal is worked. Lead, iron, manganese and ochre are also found, and were once much more worked than now. County Cork has many caves and underground streams. Climate. — The mean temperature of Kerry and part of Cork is 51 0 , of the extreme south-west 52 0 . The rainfall is from 40 to 50 inches, but in the south-west it is over 50 and under 75 inches — this is exceeded in parts of Wales, Scotland and the Lake District in England. Winter and summer temperature are very equable, and the air pure. June and September are the driest months in Ireland. Zoology. — Red deer are now found wild only at Killarney. Elk were once there. The zoology of the Kerry district is specially interesting, both fauna and flora having apparently a Spanish or Portuguese origin, hence they are called Lusi- tanian — the former name of the Roman province now Portu- gal. A black slug with yellow spots is found only in the south-west of Ireland and Portugal — nowhere else in the world. Other molluscs have a similar origin, but two are peculiar to Kenmare. Other very rare creatures may be found in this region, a dark wood-mouse, etc. But the dis- trict also contains North American and Arctic forms of life — fresh-water sponge, certain beetles, butterflies, etc. The great wolf spider, the large grasshopper, and the clear-wing moth are all found here, and many rare insects. Botany. — Here also a Lusitanian origin may be seen in many specimens, for Mediterranean or Pyrenean flowering plants are found, as well as some American. Some of the semi-tropical mosses, etc., are found nowhere else in Europe, possibly the Gulf Stream has carried them over. It is 182 SCIENCE NOTES curious that with these species — found elsewhere only in much warmer regions — may also be seen many Alpine species. It can thus be gathered that the botany of the district is peculiarly interesting and diversified. Common wild plants are the Irish spurge, the London Pride, the great Butter- wort, found here alone in the British Isles, as is also the arbutus. The Royal fern, or Osmunda, is a common way- side plant. The “ Killarney fern ” is more rare, and scarcely found elsewhere in Europe. Other plants and ferns form an Atlantic type. A certain orchid found here and in one or two other Irish places is otherwise exclusively an American or Kamschatkan plant. The blue-eyed grass of Canada and a certain rare rush is not found elsewhere in Europe. Kerry is specially rich in mosses and liverworts, some being quite tropical and known in the West Indies, tropical Andes, etc. Archaeology. — Antiquities abound in Kerry and in Cork, such as cromlechs, standing stones, or gallauns, some of which show writing in the Ogham character. The Bishop of Limerick collected stones with inscriptions in the Ogham character — so long undeciphered — and these may now be seen in the grounds of Parknasilla Hotel, formerly his own residence. Staigue Fort, near Sneem, is an almost unique example of an ancient Cathair. These are all pre-Christian, but early Christian and later architectural remains may be seen at Aghadoe, and elsewhere, and many are the holy places, islands, wells, etc., still the objects of pilgrimages or much-desired burial-places. For Index see pp. 183-8. 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D. & S. had the distinguished honour of making, by command, a Claddagh Ring for Her late Majesty Queen Victoria, on Her Majesty’s last visit to Ireland. History of Ring free on application. Connemara Marble Ornaments & Jewellery. You Know Them. T. DILLON & SONS, Irish Art Jewellers, GALWAY and ATHLONE. CONNOISSEURS SMOKE TEOFANI’S HIGH-CLASS CIGARETTES. VISITORS’ DELIGHT ! FALK’S™ 1 ' SALT Obtained from ©rocers IN PENNY or HALFPENNY PACKETS . 48 - IT NEVER CAKES. 44* Guide Book Advertiser ix Telegrams: “BILLIARDS, BIRMINGHAM.” Telephone: 1941. GOLD MEDALS AWARDED FOR EXCELLENCE. THOMAS PADMORE & SONS, BIL1.TA II D . TABLE Contractors to MANUFACTURERS. H.M. Government. Sole Makers of The New “Premier Frost Proof Low Fast Cushions. Fastest on the Market. Never go hard. Very Strong. 118, Edmund Street, BIRMINGHAM, ENGLAND. CLARNICO SWISS MILK CHOCOLATE. A MOST DELICIOUS SWEETMEAT. SUSTAINING. NUTRITIVE. PURE. OF ALL CONFECTIONERS, in Id., 3d., and 6d. Packets. Sole Ma hers : CLARKE, NICKOLLS & COOMBS, Ltd., London. BENBOWS DOG MIXTURE (. BEWARE OF LOW PRICED IMITATIONS.) Reputation. THE ORIGINAL MEDICINE Reliable Tonic. For the Cure of Distemper, Jaundice, Destroying Worms, etc., it is Invaluable. By a course of Treatment during preparation for Dogs for Exhibition, perfect con- dition can be assured, together with a Sleekness of Coat so essential for success on the Show Bench. Sold in bottles, with full Directions for use, 2/-, 5/-, and 10/- each; or in Gallon Tins (for the use of Kennels), at 45/ r each ; also in Capsules in Boxes containing 24 Half-teaspoonsful or 15 Teaspoons, 2/6 each. Of all Chemists or from Sole Proprietors : Benhow's Dog Mixture Co., 181 Aldersgate Street London, E,C. SULPHOLINE Removes Sir SKIN Is. Disfigurements , Eczema, Irritation ; Developing A Fair, Spotless Shin Bottles LOTION PEPPER’S QUININE AND IRON TONIO Improves appetite, promotes digestion strengthens nerves, increases pulse, gives firmness to the muscles, alters pale countenance, supplies deficient heat to weak circulations, overcomes bodily weariness a» d weakness, cures many painful com] 1 tints. Ins'S ‘ on having PEPPER'S TONIC. Guide Book Advertiser WARD, LOCK & CO.’S SCHOOL ANNOUNCEMENTS. + Terms for Advertisement Space on application to Mr. Henry S. Thomas, Advertising Manager, Warwick House, Salisbury Square, Fleet Street, London, E.C: FI H ST-CLASS SCHOOL Daughters of Gentlemen. QUEENWOOD, EASTBOURNE. Recognised by tbe Board of Education, Principals : Miss CHUDLEIGH and Miss JOHNS, M.A. (Lond.). Situated on West Cliff. Facing Sea and Downs. Riding, Swimming, Hockey, Tennis, Croquet, etc. Preparation (if desired) for all Examina- tions. Music, Languages, Art and Literature are Special Features. LEATHERHEAD »“«• A FIRST-CLASS BOARDING ft ft I | RT SCHOOL FOR GIRLS. IbULB K 1 Principal : Miss Tullis. 1 ■ ■ ■ Premises — a fine Modern Country Mansion, with ample accommodation. Private drainage, laundry, and electric light installation. Staff of Six Resident Mistresses and Eleven London Visiting Professors. Regular lessons on the History of Art, Music, etc., with illustrative visits to Town. Daily Drill : Cycling, Riding, Lacrosse, Tennis, Handwork. SOUTHPORT HIGHLY SUCCESSFUL SCHOOL FOR BOYS. Head Master: j. C. UNDERWOOD, A.C.P., F.R.G.S. MODERN Languages, Science, & Com- mercial Subjects, at inclusive lees. Second Master, T. H. Pritchard, B.A. (Lond.) Science Master, G, F. Douglas, B.Sc. (Hons.) And a large staff Gf qualified and efficient Form Masters, SCHOOL Guide Book Advertiser xi WARD, LOCK & CO.’S Insurance Announcements. — ♦ Terms for Advertisement Space on application to Mr. Henry S. Thomas, Advertising Manager, Warwick House, Salisbury Square, Fleet Street, London, E.C. The Liverpool h London & Globe Insurance Company. — FIRE. LIFE. — Moderate Rates. Absolute Security. Liberal Bonuses. Total Assets exceed £11,000,000. Application for Agencies invited. Head Office— l, Dale Street, Liverpool. London Office— l, Cornhill. The Edinburgh Life Assurance Company. _Fo C e de g f 18 ?, 3 - Oldest of the Life Assurance Offices. Early Provident Scheme for Young Persons. Five per Cent. Income Policies and Four per Cent. Debenture Policies. Claims are paid immediately after proof. Moderate Premiums. Increasing Bonuses. 22, George St., Edin., & 11, King William St., London, E.C. Little ‘Cousin’ Series By MARY HAZELTON WADE. Crown 8vo cloth, special design, each with six illustrations, in tints, Is. These volumes contain most interesting and delightful accounts of child-life in other lands, filled with quaint sayings, doings, and adventures. The little characters are truly fascinating. I. THE LITTLE JAPANESE GIRL. 2. THE LITTLE ESKIMO. 3- THE LITTLE AFRICAN. 4- THE LITTLE INDIAN. 5- THE LITTLE RUSSIAN. 6. THE LITTLE BROWN BOY. 7- THE LITTLE CHINESE GIRL. 8. THE LITTLE NORWEGIAN GIRL. LOXOUiM WARD, LOCK & CO LIMITED . WARD, LOCK & CO.’S House & Estate Agents’, Auctioneers’ & Valuers’ Directory ♦ — For Terms , &c., apply Mr. Henry S. Thomas, Advertising Manager , Warwick House, Salisbury Square, Fleet Street, London, E.C. SlHohlirdh fin Qaq — WOODCOCK & HENRY, House & Estate Agents, aIuOUUI 5 U"Ull _ OCtt Auctioneers, & Valuers. List of furnished Houses, Country Mansions, Shooting and Sporting Estates, in Aldeburgh, Dunwich, & East Coast District on application. Dojli — POWELL & POWELL, House Agents. Lists of Properties Dll 111 sen t f ree on application. Removal & Warehousing Contractors. 18 , Old Bond Street, Bath ; and the Paddington Depositories, London, W. Tels. — “ Powells, Bath.” “ Depositing, London.** Rfilirmamfillfh ~ HoLlse an( i Estate Agencies. Ore of 'he oldest es- DU III HCIHU 11 111 tablished is conducted by Messrs. JOLLlFFE & FLINT. Full particulars of Residences to be Let or Sold, furnished or unfurnished, free by post. Offices— i, Arcade. RnnrriArrmilth - LANE & SMITH, F.S.I., F.A.I. Established 1875 . DUUI IICIIIUUHI House & Estate Agents, Auctioneers, & Valuers. List of Properties to be Let or Sold, Furnished & Unfurnished, sent poet free. Also Apartments. — 8t, O'd Christchurch Road. Rrnrllindtnn Focf VflT’l/’Q — GHABLES H. WARDILL, Auctioneer DIIUIIII5LUII, Laol lUIAo. and Valuer. Estate and House Agent. Central Chambers, Chapel Street. Properties a Speciality. Letters and Telegrams : — “ Wardill, Auctioneer, Bridlington.” HiPltPuham — Cornelius & boulter, House and Estate VilCUCilUam Agents, Auctioneers, and Valuers. List of Properties, to be Let Furnished or Unfurnished and for Sale, Post Free. Offices — Promenade. Cromer- H. d. LIMMER, HOUSE AGENT. Free Register of Furnished Seaside and Country- Houses, Shootings, Apartments, Land, Estates, etc Offices : — CROMER, SHERINGHAM, MUNDESLEY. frOITlPr- For Furnished Houses and the largest selection ^ 1 of residences to be Let or Sold, apply to the principal Agents, Messrs. CARTER & CO. FfKthmirnP — EASTER & WRIGHT. Established 1875. Auctioneers, UiLolUUUl 11C House and Estate Agents, and ValuerSi Opposite Station. Nat. Tel. — 49 * Auctioneers, Estate Agents, Etc. Xlll FflQthmirTlP - R - W * HAMBLYN, House and Estate Agent. Estab- LdolUULil ilu lished 1891. Write for particulars of Apartments and Houses to be Let or Sold. — Elms Buildings, Eastbourne. Telephone 33X. FflQthmirnA~ For l ar S est selection ot Residences to be Let or Sold, ijdblUUUI 11 C and all Furnished Houses, apply to the principal Agents, Messrs. KILLICK & DAVIES. FfltfhftUNlP — OAKDEN & CO., HOUSE AGENTS. JJIIOIUU Ul 110 The oi d . esta blished Auctioneers, Surveyors, and Valuers, 10, Cornfield Road. Extensive selection of the principal Resi- dences for Sale & to be Let. Illustrated Register. Tel. 198. FYmmith & ^ istrict -— BLACKMORE & SONS, F.A.I., House and Es- IjAIUUULII tate Agents, Auctioneers & Valuers, Furnishers, Removal & Storage Contractors, Upholsterers. Full list of furnished and un- furnished Houses to be Sold or Let on application —36, Rolle St. F YTTI All til — b urnished or Unfurnished Houses. For particulars of all liAmUUlll Properties write for Free Illustrated List to CREWS & SON, Oldest-Established House Agents, Auctioneers, Furnishers, _ Removers, Undertakers. 4 & 6, Rolle Street. ( Ffllmmith — ROWE & CORLYON, Auctioneers, Valuers, House & Estate rdllllUUlil Agents. Careful attention and immediate Settlements given to Sales of Furniture, Properties, Shares, Farm Stock, etc. Valuations for probate, etc. Offices, Strand. Telegrams — “ Rowe, Corlyon.” Ynrk^ —WILLIAM GOFTON, House and Estate Agent. For j lOlAu. selected Furnished Houses and Apartments, also Unfurnished Houses, apply 1, Cliff Terrace, Filey. fiftflalmiriff - ^ COLLIER, SON, & SPARKES, House & Estate Agents, UUulLlllililg Auctioneers, Shooting Agents, Farm & Timber Valuers; Branch Offices — Haslemere a nd Liphook. Hampton Court & East Molesey F l E S c \,^,™ Valuers, House & Estate Agents. Guide to District Post Free. Telegrams— “ Griffin, East Molesey.” Nat. Tel. — 44, Molesey. UpnHrirjq & St. Leonards House Agency, illustrated List of Fui” UUOIIII50 nished & Unfurnished Houses, with Map, gratis. Boarding & Apartment Houses for Sale. Apply Mr. HOLMAN, Cheapside, King’s Road. Telegrams — “Holman, St. Leonards-on-Sea.” JOSEPH GRIPPER, F.S.I., Estate Agent Register of Estates, Houses, Bunga- lows, Sites to be Let or Sold, Post Free. Herne Bay and Auctioneer. M — CHAS. CHARTER, Estate Agent, Surveyor, & Valuer, 4, Bond St. Charter’s Property List contains 1,600 Properties for Sale. Charter’s To Let List contains 200 Properties To Let. Published monthly, gratis. Established iq years. Uimotanfftn and North West Norfolk and Sandringham flUIlbldlllUIl District. -INGRAM WATSON & SON, House and Estate Agents. Free Illustrated Register & Illustrated Guides. Offices— Hunstanton. Tlfrarnmhp and District. — Particulars of principal Residences (Fur- IlilabUIlIUC nished or Unfurnished), Apartments, and Properties for Sale, sent on application to W. C. HUTCHINGS, Auctioneer and Estate Agent. flfrflpomhp N0RTH devon house and estate agency. 1111 dl/UlllUC Houses & Business Premises of every description. Furnished Houses & Apartments a speciality. Furniture removed. Estimates free. Telegrams: “ Kempe, Ilfracombe.” Tel. — 1Y2, Ilfracombe. Sandown Leading House & Estate Agents. HIGGS, SOWARD & MUMBY Under Royal and Distinguished Patronage. Auctioneers, Estate Agents, Etc. I W — Sandown, Shanklin, Bembridge, and District. A * 11 ' G. W. S. WITHERS (Chief Office : Opposite Railway Station), Sandown. Established 1868. Printed Registers Free. Shanklin Phwpq & District.— J ohn s. Rogers & Co., a.jc* Olldlmliil, OUYiOOj tioneers, Valuers, & Estate Agents. Free Register of Furnished Houses & Apartments. Unfurnished Houses & Proper* ties to be Let or Sold. Tel. 51 x 2 Shanklin, and 63 Y Cowes. Vpntnnr I W — C. MITCHELL & SONS, House and Estate Agents. I ClUIlUi j 1 . II . Lists of Isle of Wight Properties free. Offices — Church Street. Ventnor Innrinn~ PHILIP stock, f.a.i., Auctioneer, Surveyor, Valuer, liUiiuUii Estate and House Agent, 349, Coldharbour Lane, Brixton, S.W. Sales at the Mart, Tokenhouse Yard, E.C., monthly, or other dates as required. Telegirams — “ Affafcrous, London.” Telephone— No. 25 Brixton. Established 1866. KENTISH TOWN, CAMDEN TOWN, HIGHGATE, HOLLOWAY, TUFNELL PARK, HAVERSTOCK HILL and Neighbourhood. MESSRS. SALTER, REX & CO. ( Francis H. Rex, F.S.I . , F.A.I.) t Surveyors an£> Jluctloneera, Xanfc, ibouse, ant> tEetate Agents, Issue Free List of all available Properties for Sale or to be Let in N.W. and N. Districts. Rents Collected. Estates Managed; Mortgages Arranged, Apply:- 311 , KENTISH TOWN ROAD, LONDON, N.W. Telephone: 569 , North. TelegrMls : “Rex, Kentish Town T AWPQtnft WfiUQP C. TITCOMB, F.A.I., Auctioneer, & c., LU WOolUil IIUiloO flgCIIl. Pier Terrace, will forward free on applica- tion a List of Furnished Houses (some with shady gardens), Un- furnished Houses, Shops, Apartments, &c. — J. F. DEWICK (late Walter Williams), House & Estate Agent. Apply for List of Houses or Properties to Let, Furnished or Unfurnished. Offices — 15, The Avenue. _ NnWflllQU FAPnWQll — F. WAREN & CO., House, Land, & Estate HvJW IJUCLy , vUIIlW all Agents & Valuers, Central Chambers. Register of Apartments & Furnished & Unfurnished Houses to be Let or Sold free on application. Tels. : “Waren, Newquay.” Nat. Tel. 0193; Houses in Oxford I District - are the Agents for all furnished and unfurnished Residences to Let in and around Oxford. Property Register gratis. Offices— n, Corn Market St., Oxford. Central Perthshire Highlands.— List of Furnished Houses to Let for Summer Months, &c., Free by Post, from C. C. STUART & SON. Telegrams — “ Stuart, Pitlochry.” Plvmmith ELLI0TT ELLIS & co., f.al, h ouse Agents, Auc- rijlllUULll tioneers, and Valuers. Extensive Monthly Register of Furnished and Unfurnished Houses, Properties, and Estates. Telegrams — “ Negotiate, Plymouth.” Telephone No. 153. Pa menu loin nf Man— For Furnished & Unfurnished Houses, ndlllbcy, lbic U 1 mail also Select Private Apartments, apply to T. A. FARGHER, House and Estate Agent. Qalthlirn hu thfl Qua Vorko —Houses Furnished and Unfurnished OailUUIll-UJf-LllC-OCd, I UlAo. to Let, also Apartments. Apply R. HUNTER, Auctioneer and House Agent, Railway Station. Nat. Tel. 052. Auctioneers, Estate Agents, Etc. CnltKiiim Kir thn — For particulars of Furnished Houses & Apait- OdllUUIU-Uj-LllD-UCd ments, also Residences and Houses for Sale or to Let, apply to H. HAMILTON, House & Estate Agent, Victoria Library, Sahburn. Established 1886. and District— All the best Furnished & Unfurnished 0 ML 1 UUlUUgii Houses. W. ROWNTREE & SONS, House Agents, Scarborough. Tel. Ad. : “ Rowntree, Scarboro’.” Nat. Tel. No. 7. QhfmhflrfTo Rneh Acton, & Ealing.— C. RAWLEY CROSS & CO. DUvJJlluIU o DUoil, Houses, Flats, and Business Premises for Sale or to be Let. Offices (facing Tube Stn.), Shepherd’s Bush ; (facing the Church), High Street, Acton : and 37, Broadway, Ealing, W. •sidmAllth^Hou^s to Let, Furnished or Unfur- OlUlllvUUl nished, also Apartments. Apply to G. PIDSLEY & SON, Fore Street. Southampton & S. Hants - & Estate Agents, Auctioneers, Valuers, Surveyor*, & Fire Assessors. Estab. 40 years. Printed Register Free. Tels. “ Bance, Southampton.” Offices — 67, Above Bar. Qrtuth Uanfo including Southampton and the New Forest.— OUUlll naillb, PERKINS & SONS (Address, Southampton), Estate and House Agents, Auctioneers, Valuers, and Surveyors. Monthly List on application. Established nearly a Century. Southsea, Portsmouth, Havant, 14, Osborne Road, Southsea (3 minutes’ walk from Southsea Pier). For furnished and um furnished Houses to be Let or Sold. Also Business Premises, &c. OntfAii QllPPPV — 3°° f eet above sea level. Golf. 25 minutes from uUllUilj QUIlOj London Bridge or Victoria. List of Houses to be Let or Sold, post free, from the House and Estate Agents, Messrs. DIXON & CO Torquay COX & SON, F.A.I., House Agents, Auctioneers, & Valuers, 4, Victoria Parade. Established 1805. Illustrated List on application. Nat. Tel. 75. TORQUAY Tunbridge Wells- HOUSE AGENTS, &c. G. R. SMITH & SON, 9, Strand. Illustrated List of Houses Post Free. Also Apartments. — The Garden of Kent. Illustrated Register of Estates and Houses post free of BRACKETT & SONS, Estate Agents & Auctioneers, 27 & 29, High Street, Tunbridge Wells, and 34, Craven Street, Charing Cross, W.C. New Service of 13 express trains, without stop, between Tunbridge Wells and London (Cannon Street in 48 minutes). “Tunbridge Wells,” says the Sunday Times, il appears likely, during the Winter Season, to rival the Riviera in popularity. Many of our eminent doctors, including Sir William Broadbent, declare its climate to be simply perfection. It is a perfect ground of miracle for hopeless cases.” Wpvmmith — ^ W. FULLER, 33, St. Thomas St., Auctioneer, Valuer, II Oj UiUUlii Hotel Broker, & House Agent. Register fiee on application. Auctioneers, Estate Agents, Etc. WnFth ind — Apply to NORMAN & SPENCER for Register of all the 11 lUlUg. best Houses & Shops to be Let or Sold, Furnished and Unfurnished. Register free. And at West Worthing. Personal attention to all who call. Worth in0~ JORDAN ^ ^ ouse Agents and Auctioneers. II U1 LUIII 5 published and forwarded free. 35 , South Street. Lisis Telegrams: “Auctioneer, Worthing'.” Most Healing Ointment on the Market. 100 Years Reputation. For Sore Eyes, Eczema, Boils, Piles, Bad Legs, &c. 1/U, 2/9, 4/6, 11/- of all Chemists and Stores. Also in the Colonies. Made only by BEACH & BARNICOTT, LTD., BRIDPORT. Write for Pamphlet , and mention this Guide. YITALISER 3YER, VE TONIC AND LIFE I3!ff VIC5^0K,A,T0 R b A splendid Restorative, increasing the quantity and improving the quality of the blood. It is of immense value in low state of the system. During its use the temperature of the body rises, the weight is aug- mented, digestion aided, appetite increased, and the general health im- proved. The patient at the same time gains flesh and colour. Proctor’s Vitaliser is excellent for all who have great Mental Strain; it stimulates the heart ; enriches the blood ; strengthens the brain, en- abling it to perform its functions without the fatigue which usually follows excessive study and overworked state of the nervous system. 5/- per Bottle , post free from — PROCTOR’S PINELYPTUS DEPOT, 43, Grainger Street, NEWCASTLE-ON-TYNE. WARD, LOCK & CO.’S Eatltoair & Utramrr Dimtorij. INDEX RAILWAYS— page| South Eastern and Chatham Railway... 13^ West and South Clare Railways ... ... 20* RAILWAYS— PAGE Belgian State Railway 12* Caledonian Railway ... 2* Cambrian Railway ... 19* District Railway ... 16* Festiniog Railway ... 18* Furness Railway ... 5* Glasgow and South Western Railway ... 8* Great Eastern Railway 10* Great Northern Railway 7* Great Western Railway 11* Highland Railway ... 9* STEAMERS— Batavier Line.., ... 25* The Bibby Line ... 28* British & Irish Steam- packet Co 21* Dr. Lunn s Cruises ... 22* Elder, Dempster & Co. 27* Isle of Wight Railway 15* Lancashire & Yorkshire Railway ... ... 17* London and North Western Railway ... 3* London and South Western Railway ... 14* Midland Railway ... 4* North British Railway 6* Curtiss & Sons, Ltd , Leith, Hull, and Ham- burg Steampacket Co. 22* Liverpool and North Wales Steamship Co., Ltd 25* London & Edinburgh Shipping Co. ... 24* MacBrayne s, D. ... 23* General Steam Navi- gation Company ... 32* Depositories ... 26* Guide Series 1905-6 2 Railway Routes 2* CALEDONIAN RAILWAY. ♦ THE PREMIER TOURIST ROUTE OF SCOTLAND. Over 150 Summer Tours by Rail, Coach, and Steamer. Tourist Programmes and Descriptive Guides on application to — Mr. G. CALTHROP, 302, Buchanan Street, Glasgow. THE CLYDE COAST. Daily New and Island of Arran Pleasure Excursions Popular Route. and from EDINBURGH GLASGOW Western Highlands, (Princes St.) and (Central) Via GOUROCK, GLASGOW to „ WEMYSS BAY, (Buchanan St.) to LOCH LOMOND „ ARDROSSAN. THE TR0S3ACHS, and — LOCH EARN, THE TROSSACHS, Daily CRIEFF, LOCH TAY, uia Pleasure Sailings. LOCH AWE, &C. BALLOCH. SHORTEST, QUICKEST, AND BEST ROUTE By “GRAMPIAN CORRIDOR” From EDINBURGH (Princes Street) and GLASGOW (Buchanan Street) to Stirling, Callander, Oban, Ballachulish, Fort William, Perth, Dundee, Aberdeen, Inverness, and the North of Scotland. FREQUENT EXPRESS TRAIN SERVICE, GLASGOW (Central) and EDINBURGH (Princes Street)- 65 minutes journey. WEST COAST (ROYAL MAIL) ROUTE BETWEEN Scotland. £c En g land. I EDINBURGH (Princes Street) in 8 hours GLASGOW (Central) in 8 hours LONDON (Euston) and OBAN in 13 hours j ABERDEEN ... in 111 hours (INVERNESS in 13 hours IMPROVED EXPRESS TRAIN SERVICE BETWEEN Liverpool Manclxester AND GLASGOW (Central), Edinburgh (Princes Street), and all parts of Scotland. Corridor Carriages, with Luncheon, Dining, and Tea Cars, on all THROUGH DAY EXPRESS TRAINS. NEW AND IMPROVED SLEEPING SALOONS (The finest in Europe — Awarded Grand Prix, St. Louis Exhibition). Rugs and Pillows supplied to Passengers at a charge of 6 d. each. Tourists are respectfully reminded that when travelling from England to Stirling, Callander, Oban, Perth, Dundee, and Inverness, they can go to Edinburgh (Capital of Scotland) and break their journey there with- out extra charge or inconvenience. The Caledonian Company’s Trains from London (Euston) arrive at Edinburgh (Princes Street), where the Com- pany have a New Hotel, and from where they start their service of trains, in- cluding the * Grampian Corridor,’ for all the important Towns in the North. Glasgow, 1905 . R. MILLAR, General Manager. Railway Routes 3* LONDON & NORTH-WESTERN RAILWAY. QUICKEST & MOST COMFORTABLE ROUTE BETWEEN LONDON AND (EUSTON) BIRMINGHAM, MANCHESTER, LIVERPOOL, IRELAND, and the NORTH. Sleeping Saloons, fitted with every modern convenience, are provided on the principal night trains. Breakfast, Luncheon, Tea, and Dining Cars are run on the principal day trains. Hot or Cold Luncheons in Baskets are provided at the 1 principal stations, 3s. including beer or wine, and 2s. 6d. without. Tea Baskets, containing a Pot of Tea, Bread and Butter, and Cake, can be obtained at Preston, Lancaster, Llandudno Junction. Builth Road, Crewe, Birmingham (New Street), Coventry, Rugby, and Northampton, price is. each. Rugs and Pillows may be obtained by passengers travelling by the Night Trains. Charge 6d. each for Rug or Pillow. Luggage collected, forwarded in advance, and delivered, at a charge of Is. per package. WEST COAST (ROYAL MAIL) ROUTE BETWEEN ENGLAND and SCOTLAND. ( EDINBURGH in 8 hours. LONDON (Euston) ! GLASGOW „ 8 „ and 1 ABERDEEN „ 111 „ ' INVERNESS „ \3h „ Corridor Trains with Refreshment and Dining Cars between London and Edinburgh, Glasgow, Perth, and Aberdeen. Every information as to trains and fares can be obtained on application to Mr. Robert Turnbull, Superintendent of the Line, Euston Station, London, N.W. FREDERICK HARRISON, General Manager. Euston Station, 1905. 4* Railway Routes Midland Railway. THE BEST ROUTE FOR Comfortable Travel AND Picturesque Scenery TO AND FROM THE PRINCIPAL TOWNS & HOLIDAY RESORTS OF GREAT BRITAIN AND NORTH OF IRELAND. | M Pocket Time Tables and Programmes (also Illustrated Guides, and Lists of Furnished Apartments in Country and Seaside Districts during the Season) may' be had FREE on application to any MIDLAND STATION MASTER or DISTRICT SUPERINTENDENT. JOHN MATHIESON, General Manager. Railway Routes rOKNKSS RAILWAY. Twenty Coach and Steam Yacht Tours THROUGH ENGLISH LAKELAND DAILY during JUNE, JULY, AUGUST, and SEPTEMBER. REDUCTION IN FARES. No. t. — Outer Circular lour, embracing Windermere Lake, Fur- ness Abbey, and Coniston. — Fare from 5/3. No. 2. — Inner Circular Tour, embracing Furness Abbey, Coniston Lake (Gondola), and Crake Val- ley.— Fare from 3/3. No. 3.— Grange and Windermere Circular Tour, embracing Grange, Arnside, Kendal, and Windermere Lake. — Fare from 2/9. No. 4.- Middle Circular Tour, embracing Windermere Lake, the Crake Valley, and Coniston Lake. — Fare from 5/9. No. 5.— Red Bank and Grasmere Tour, via Ambleside and Skelwith Force, returning via Rydal Water. --Fare from 2/9. No. 6. — Thirl mere, Grasmere, and Windermere Tour, via Ambleside, Clappersgate, and Red Bank, and round Thirlmere Lake. — Fare from 5/- No. 7.— The Four Lakes Circular Tour, viz., Coniston, Grasmere, Rydal, and Windermere. — Fare from 5/9. No. 8.— Coniston to Coniston Tour, via Red Bank, Grasmere, and Ambleside, returning by Coach to Coniston. — Fare from 4/6. No. 9— Tarn Hows Tour, via Am- bleside and Coniston, returning by Tilberthwaite and Elterwater. — Fare from 4/6. No. 10.— Round the Langdales and Dungeon Ghyll Tour, via Ambleside, Col with Force, Gras- mere, and Rydal. — Fare from 5/-. No. II.— Ullswater Tour, via. Am- bleside, Kirkstone Pass, and Brothers Water, returning via the Vale of Troutbeck and Lowwood.— Fare from 5/6. No. 12. — Derwentwater (Kes- wick) Tour, via Ambleside, Gras- mere, and Thirlmere. — Farefrom f /■. No. 13.— The Five Lakes Circular Tour, viz., Windermere, Rydal, Giasmere, Thirlmere, and Derweni- water. — Fare from 1 1/6. No. 14.— Wastwater Tour, via Sea- scale and Gosforth. — Fare from 4/6. No. 15.— The Six Lakes Circular Tour, viz., Windermere, Rydal, Grasmere, Thirlmere, Derwent- water, & Ullswater. — Farefrom 12/-. No. 1 6. —The Duddon Valley Tour, via Broughton-in- Furness, Ulpha, and Seathwaite. — Fare from 3/9. *No. 17. — ' The Three Waterfalls Tour (Colwith, Dungeon Ghyll, and Skelwith), via Coniston and the Langdales. — Fare from 4/9. *No. 18.— Ennerdale Lake and Calder Abbey Tour, via Seascale, Gosforth, & Cold Fell. — Farefr. 4/6. No. 19.— Across the Ferry Tour, via Lake Side, Esthwaite Water, Hawkshead, and Storrs Hall. — Fare from 3/6. No. 20.— Cartmel Priory and Newby Bridge Tour, via Winder- mere (Lake Side), Backbarrow Falls, Holker Park, and Grange. — Fare from 3/- [* Commence 1st July. For further particulais see “Tours through Lakeland’’ Pamphlets, to be had gratis at all Furness Railway Stations ; of Mr. F. J. Ramsden, Super- intendent of the Line, Barrow-in-Furness ; at Messrs. Thos. Cook & Son’s, and the Polytechnic Institute, Regent Street, W. ; or Messrs. W. H. Smith & Sons’ principal Bookstalls. Price Jd. Barrow with Fleetwood for Blackpool.— During the Summer months the Furness Railway Company’s Paddle Steamer “ Lady Margaret ” or “ Lady Evelyn” will run daily between Barrow and Fleetwood for Blackpool. Full particulars as to Sailings, Fares, etc., may Le obtained on application to the Superintendent of the Line, Barrow-in-Furness; or from Messrs. Thos. Cook & Son’s Manchester, Blackpool, and other Agencies. The Palette Album, illustrating the above Tours, in colours, can be ob- tained at the principal Railway Bookstalls, price 6d. Picture Postcards Of the Lake District may be obtained at any station on the Furness Railway, and on the Company’s Steamers ; also at Furness Abbey Hotel and the principal Bookstalls. Reduced price, 12 cards for 6d. ALFRED ASLETT, Barrow-in-Furness, June , 1905. Secretary and General Manager. 6* Railway Routes NORTH BRITISH RAILWAY. TfHE NORTH BRITISH RAILWAY SYSTEM is the most extensive in Scotland, vl' It directly serves all the most important districts of the Country, and by arrange- ments with other Railway Companies, with whom it is in alliance, or over whose lines it possesses Running Powers, provides convenient and expeditious Through Communica- tion with all parts of the United Kingdom. THE MOST DIRECT AND POPULAR ROUTE to the WEST HIGHLANDS, OBAN, PORTREE, STORNOWAY, &c., is by the West Highland Line, by which there is an ample and expeditious Service of Trains, having Through Carriages from London and Edinburgh during the summer, and from Glasgow all the year round, to Fort- William, and vice jersa, and connecting at Oban, Fort-William, Banavie, and Mallaig, with Mr. David MacBrayne's Steamers to and from the Hebrides, Inverness, Caledonian Canal, Portree, Stornoway, &c. THE COMPANY possesses the SHORTEST ROUTE to and from the NORTH, via the FORTH and TAY BRIDGES, and Through Express Trains are run daily between Edinburgh (Waverley and Haymarket Stations) and Dunfermline, Alloa, Stirling, and Perth, vid the Forth Bridge, and between Edinburgh (Waverley and Haymarket Stations), and Glasgow (Queen Street Station) & Dundee, Arbroath, Montrose, Aberdeen, Ac., vid the Forth & Tay Bridges. Through Carriages are also run between Edinburgh & Inverness, via the Forth Bridge. EDINBURGH and GLASGOW. A Complete Service of Express Trains at frequent intervals is run between Edinburgh (Waverley & Haymarket Stations) & Glasgow (Queen Street Station), passengers having the choice of two routes, viz., vid Linlithgow & Falkirk, or vid Airdrie and Coatbridge. FAST STEAMERS SAIL from and to CRAIGENDORAN PIER in connection with the Company’s trains, which run alongside the pier; thereby afford- ing convenient access to the various Watering Places on the Clyde, Greenock, the Gareloch, Loch Long, Holy Loch, the Kyles of Bute, the Islands of Bute and Arran, &c. These steamers also connect during the summer with the “Columba,” “Iona, “Lord of the Isles,” and Arran steamers. EXPRESS SERVICE WITH ENGLAND. The East Coast royal Mail Route is the shortest and most popular. Express Trains are run daily from Aberdeen, Montrose, Arbroath, Dundee (Tay Bridge Station), vid Tay and Forth Bridges; Perth, Dunfermline, Alloa, and Stirling, vid Forth Bridge; Glasgow (Queen Street), and Edinburgh (Waverley Station), to Berwick, Newcastle, York, Leeds, Peterborough, London (King’s Cross Station), and vice versd. Many of the carriages on tnis route are built on the corridor principle. The Waverley ROUTE.— The Waverley Route between Scotland and London (St. Pancras) is the most interesting and attractive, and the only route which enables tourists to visit Melrose (for Melrose Abbey and Abbotsford), St. Boswells (for Dry- burgh Abbey), and the Scott Country. Express Trains are run daily from Aberdeen, Montrose, Arbroath, Dundee (Tay Bridge Station), vid Tay and Forth Bridges: Perth, Dunfermline, Alloa, and Stirling, vid the Forth Bridge; and Edinburgh (Waverley Station), to Carlisle, Manchester, Liverpool, Leeds, Sheffield, Birmingham, Bristol, Bournemouth, London (St. Pancras), &c., and vice versd. First and Third Class Dining Trains,— Corridor Trains containing First and Third Class Dining Saloons, run daily between Edinburgh (Waverley) and London (King's Cross and St. Pancras). Sleeping Carriages, and First and Third Class Lavatory Carriages, are run by both the above routes. Sleeping berths may be secured on application to Mr. D. DEUCHARS, Superintendent of the Line, Edinburgh. RAIL, COACH, and STEAMER CIRCULAR TOURS To Inverness, Fort-William (for Ben Nevis), Caledonian Canal, West Highlands, Mallaig, Isle of Skye, Oban, Firth of Clyde, Aberfoyle, Trossachs, Loch Katrine, and Loch Lomond. Tickets for Circular Tours, embracing the above-mentioned places, are issued at Edinburgh (Waverley and Haymarket Stations), Glasgow (Queen Street^ and all other Principal Stations on the North British Railway. SALOON AND FAMILY CARRIAGES AND RESERVED COMPARTMENTS are provided for the conveyance of families or invalids, on terms which may be ascertained on appli- cation to the Superintendent of the Line, Edinburgh. HOTELS. -North British Station Hotel, Edinburgh. —This magnificent and well- appointed Hotel, owned and managed by the North British Railway Company, is situated in Princes Street, and communicates by Lift with Waverley Station. It is Fire-proof throughout. Telegraphic Address, “ British, Edinburgh.” Station Hotel, Perth.— This Hotel adjoins the Station, and is furnished in the most modern style, re- plete with every comfort. Telegraphic Address, “ Station Hotel, Perth.” North British Station Hotel, Glasgow — This Hotel, which adjoins Queen Street Station, is in course of being redecorated and refurnished, and will be opened about the beginning of May. under the direct management of the North British Railway Com- pany Telegraphic Address, “Attractive, Glasgow.” Apartments, etc., can be ordered, free of charge, by Telegraph, on Passengers handing a Memorandum of their requirements to the Station Master or other Official at any of the principal Stations, or to the Conductor or Guard of the Train. The Hotel Porters at the above-mentioned Hotels attend the trains and convey Luggage, free of charge, to or from the Hotels. For Particulars of lours. Fares, and General Arrangements, see the Company s Time 'Tables and Tourist Programme, copies of luhich may be obtained from any of the Stationmasters, or from Mr. D. DEUCHARS, Superintendent of the Line, kdinburgh. Edinburgh, 1905. W. F. JACKSON, General Manager. Railway Routes GREAT NORTHERN RAILWAY Direct Service of Express Trains TO CAMBRIDGE. CROMER. DERBY. LEICESTER. NOTTINGHAM. SHEFFIELD. STOCKPORT. MANCHESTER. LIVERPOOL. WAKEFIELD. LEEDS. HUDDERSFIELD. BRADFORD. HALIFAX. HULL. YORK. SLEEPING CARRIAGES ATTACHED TO AI.L NIGHT TRAINS TO SCOTLAND. AND ALL PARTS OF THE NORTH OF ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND. First and Third Class Carriages of the most improved description, fitted with Lavatories, Lighted by Gas, and heated by Steam in Winter, are attached to all the Express Trains. BREAKFAST, LUNCHEON, and DINING CARS are attached to certain of the Express Trains running between London and Leeds ; London and Bradford ; London, Notting- ham and Sheffield; London and Edinburgh (Waverley); London and Aberdeen. Time Tables, Tourist and Week-end Programmes, and lists of Farmhouse and Country Lodgings to be let during the sum- mer months, may be obtained on application at Great Northern Stations and Town Offices, or of the Chief Passenger Agent, King’s Cross Station, N. OLIVER BURY, London (King's Cross), May, 1905. General Manager. 8* Railway Routes GLASGOW & SOUTH-WESTERN RAILWAY. SCOTLAND AND ENGLAND. 'T'HE GLASGOW and SOUTH-WESTERN RAILWAY COMPANY 1 gives, a Direct Route between Scotland and England, con- necting at Carlisle with the Midland Railway, the principal Termini being St. Enoch, Glasgow, and St. Pancras, London ; and a Full and Expeditious Service is given between Glasgow, Paisley, Greenock, Ayr, Ardrossan, Kilmarnock, Dumfries, &c,, and Liverpool, Manchester, Bradford, Leeds, Sheffield, Bristol, Bath, Birmingham, London, &c. DINING CARS (First and Third Class) by the Morning and Afternoon Expresses, and SLEEPING CARS by the Night Expresses, in each direction, between Gi.asgow (St. Enoch) and London (St. Pancras). New and Improved CORRIDOR CARRIAGES with LAVATORY Accommodation by all the trains. Passengers between Scotland and England by this, the most Picturesque Route, pass through the heart of the Burns Country, and holders of Tourist Tickets to and from Glasgow, or North thereof, are allowed to travel via Ayr (Burns’ Birthplace). Tickets are also valid for break of journey at Dumfries (Burns’ Burial-place). CLYDE WATERING PLACES. The Glasgow and South-Western Line to Princes Pier Station, Greenock, is the most convenient for Visitors to the Watering Places on the Firth of Clyde and Western Highlands and the Islands of Scotland, to and from which places regular connections are main- tained by the Company’s magnificent Fleet of Steamers, “ Glen Sannox,” “Juno,” “Jupiter,” “Mars,” “Mercury,” “Neptune,” “Minerva,” “Glen Rosa,” “Vulcan,” and “Viceroy,” as also by the “Columba,” “ Lord of the Isles,” “ Isle of Arran,” and Turbine Steamers, “ King Edward” and “Queen Alexandra.” All Passengers’ Luggage is removed from the Trains to the Steamers, and vice versiX , free of charge, by a special staff of attendants provided by the Company. Passengers holding Through Tickets to or from England have the option of visiting Glasgow en route. ISLAND OF ARRAN, MILLPORT, & CAMPBELTOWN. The most direct and expeditious route to the far-famed Island Of Arran is by the Company’s new swift Paddle Steamer “Glen Sannox,” via Ardrossan ; and to Millport, Campbeltown, &c., via Fairlie, where the Company’s Trains run alongside the Steamers. AYRSHIRE COAST and THE LAND 0’ BURNS. Passengers desirous of visiting the Ayrshire Coast Towns and places on the Company’s Line, which are full of associations of the Poet Burns, and famous in history and romance, will find that the Company provide an excellent service of Express Trains from Glasgow and Paisley, com- posed of carriages of the most modern type, to Kilwinning, Stevenston, Saltcoats, Ardrossan, West Kilbride, Fairlie, Largs, Irvine, Troon, Prestwick, and Ayr, all of which places can be reached within the hour. There is also a service of Fast Trains to Maybole, Girvan, Pinmore, Pinwherry, Barrhill, New Luce, and Stranraer. From Stranraer Steamboat connections are formed to Ireland, via Larne, the open sea passage being only 80 minutes. FAMOUS GOLFING LINKS. — Golfers will find Links of the highest order at Bridge of Weir, Kilmacolm, Johnstone, Stevenston, West Kilbride, Largs, Bogside, Gailes Barassie, Troon, Prestwick, and Turnberry (Girvan). For descriptive notes on the various Links served by the Company’s Trains, see the Guide to the Golfing Resorts, issued by the Company, free of charge. HOTELS. The Company have Hotels at Glasgow (St. Enoch), Ayr, and Dumfries, under their own management. These Hotels will be found replete with all modern conveniences and comforts. Excellent cuisine and a moderate tariff existing throughout. Glasgow, 1905. DAVID COOPER, General Manager. Railway Routes 9* THE HIGHLAND RAILWAY. Holiday Resorts in the Highlands of Scotland:— Dunkeld, Pitlochry, Aberfeldy, Blair Atholl, Kingussie, Aviemore, Carr Bridge, Boat of Garten, Grantown, Forres, Elgin, Nairn, Inverness (the Capital of the Highlands), Beauly, Fortrose, Dingwall, Strathpeffer Spa, Garve, Achnasheen (for Loch Maree), Kyle of Lochalsh (for Portree, Stornoway, &c.), Tain, Lairg, Dornoch, Golspie, Helmsdale, Wick, Thurso, and Lybster. For Fishing, Golfing, Shooting, Excursions by Steamer or Coach, or for quiet resting, the Highlands are unsur- passed. The Scenery is delightful in variety ; the Climate bracing and wholesome. All the above Stations are on the Highland Railway, and Passengers should obtain Tickets by the Highland Route, via DUNKELD. During the Tourist Season Tickets are issued at all the principal Stations in England and Scotland. The Railway from SPEAN BRIDGE to INVERGARRY and FORT AUGUSTUS was opened in July, 1903, and provides new ground for Visitors in a most interesting and romantic part of the Highlands. For Fares, Times of Trains, Through Carriages, &c., see the Company’s Time Tables, sent to any address on application. STATION HOTEL, INVERNESS Belonging to the Company, is a First-class Family and Commercial Hotel. It adjoins the Station and occupies the most central position in the Town. Grill Room in connection. The Company’s Station Hotel at KYLE Of LOCHALSH is convenient for Tourists en route to the ISLE of SKYE, STORNOWAY, and the WESTERN ISLANDS. The Company’s NEW STATION HOTEL at DORNOCH, SUTIIER- LANDSHIRE, is now open (DORNOCH is the paradise of the Goiter). Passengers can secure Apartments by Telegraph, FREE Of CHARGE, by applying to any of the Station Officials on the Line, and giving their Name and Address in writing. T. A. WILSON, General Manager, Inverness, 1905. Railway Routes GREAT E ASTERN RAILWAY SEASIDE, and BROADS and RIVERS of NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK, CHEAP TICKETS ARE ISSUED AS UNDER BY ALL TRAINS. KKIDAY OH FORTNIGHTLY. LIVERPOOL STREET SATURDAY TILL TUESDAY. Available for 15 Days. TOURIST. FENCHURCHSTREET to A B C ist Cl. 3 rd CL ist Cl. 3 rd Cl. ist Cl. i 3 rd Cl. Southend on-Sea 6 /- 3/6 7/- 4/4 (via Shenfield) *Burnham-on-Cr’ch ... 6 /- 3/6 7/- 4/4 8/8 4/4 LIVERPOOL ST. to Clacton-on-Sea ... ) Frinton-on-Sea ... f Walton-on-Naze ... Dovercourt 1 Harwich ) 13/6 7/6 17/6 10 /- 20 /- 12 /- Felixstowe 13/6 8 /- 17/6 10 /- 23/4 14/3 Aldeburgh 16/- 10 /- 25/- 13/- 27/9 16/9 Southwold 22 /- 11 /- 27/6 15/- 31/3 18/5 | LIVERPOOL STREET or ST. PANCRAS to LOWestOft (Central) ... 22 /- 11 /- 27/6 15/- 33/- | 19/9 Gorleston-on-Sea ... 22 - 11 /- 27/6 15/- 34/- 20 /- Yarmouth 22 /- 11 /- 27/6 15/- 34/- 20 /- | Cromer 22 /- 11 /- 27/6 15/- 34/- 20 /- Mundesley-on-Sea ... 22 /- 11 /- 27/6 15/- 34/- 20 /- Hunstanton 16/- 10 /- 25/- 13/- 30/6 18/- Norwich 31/10 18/11 1 A. Friday to Tuesday Tickets are issued every Friday and Saturday, and are available for return by any of the advertised trains on the day of issue or on any day up to and including the Tuesday following the date of issue. B. Fortnightly Tickets are issued daily, and are available for return by any of the advertised trains on any day within fifteen days, including the days of issue and return. C. Tourist Tickets are issued daily throughout the year by any train, and are available for the return journey by any train on any day within six calendar months from the date of issue. Those issued during May and June will be available up to 31st December. 1905. ♦Fortnightly and Tourist Tickets to Burnham-on-Crouch are issued only from May to October inclusive. Friday to Tuesday, Fortnightly, and Tourist Tickets to the above seaside stations are also issued at Great Eastern stations within twelve miles of London, and at the stations on the East London Line, at the same fares as from Liverpool Street. For full particulars see the Company’s Time Book and Handbills. RESIDENTIAL SEASON TICKETS at cheap rates are issued between Liverpool Street and Southend, Clacton. Walton-on-Naze, Dovercourt, Harwich and Felixstowe, for periods of One Week, Two Weeks, One Month, Three Months, Six Months, and Twelve Months. Full particulars may be obtained of the Secretary, Liverpool Street Station. S3T Pamphlets on the Holiday Resorts in the Eastern Counties and the Broads District of Norfolk and Suffolk, and Seaside, Farmhouse, and Country Lodgings and Hotel Guide, can be obtained gratis and post free on application to the Superintendent of the Line, Liverpool Street Station. J. F. S. GOODAY, General Manager. Liverpool Street Station, London, E.C., May, 1905. Railway Routes ii* GREAT WESTERN RAILWAY RAPID AND LUXURIOUS TRAVEL TO ALL PARTS OF THE Great Western Railway and Railways in Connection. BREAKFAST. LUNCHEON, DINING, and SLEEPING CARS. SMOOTHEST Running Track in the WORLD. UP TO DATE TRAINS, With every convenience. EXPRESS SERVICES TO AND FROM Penzance I Newquay I Plymout 1 I Torquay I Weymouth I Tenby I Hereford 1 Chester etc. Falmouth St. Ives Exeter Ilfracombe Cardiff Birmingham Cheltenham Stratford-on-Avon et . , etc. TRAVEL BY THE Great Western Railway To the By the In the On the BEST Places. Routes. Trains. Line. CHEAP FARES Ordinary , Tourist 9 and Week-end Tickets all the Year Hound « EXCURSIONS during Summer Months to THE — BEAUTIFUL Dorset, Somerset, Corn- CHARMING wall, Devon, Sth. Wales, SOUTH CORNISH North & Central Wales, OF Midland Counties, &c. RIVIERA. IRELAND. Luggage in Advance. i ABC and other Tickets in Advance. 1 1 riME TABLES MAXIMUM I RAPID MINIMUM COMFORT ! ! ! 1 TRAVEL. COST ! ! ! For information upon all matters affecting the Great Western Railway, send postcard to Mr. J. Morris, Superintendent of the Line, Paddington Station, or to Enquiry Office, Paddington Station, W. JAMES C. INGLIS, General Manager. Railway Routes is* CHEAPEST RAILWAY TICKETS IN THE WORLD. BELGIAN STATE RAILWAY AND MAIL PACKET SERYICE. THE CONTINENT VIA DOVER & OSTEND. Three Departures Daily in each direction. Sea Passage, Three Hours. Official Agency of the German Railway Union for the issue of “ RUNDREISE ” (Combined Tour) TICKETS for any route required over the Belgian, German, French, Swiss, Italian, Austrian, Turkish, Dutch, Danish, Norwegian, and Swedish Lines Descriptive pamphlet and specimen quotation will be supplied free on application. FORTNIGHTLY SEASON TICKETS are also in issue, enabling the holder to travel all over Belgium on the State Lines, and including one sea passage each way between DOVER and OSTEND. Prices. — ist class, £3 3s. Od. ; 2nd class, £2 4s. Od.‘ ; 3rd class, £1 10s. 5d. CHEAP EXCURSION TICKETS during the season to OSTEND, BRUSSELS, ANTWERP, via Brussels, and LIEGE (Exhibition) at Less than Single Fares. For full particulars and tickets dated in advance, apply to the Belgian Mail Packet Offices— In LONDON : 53, Gracechurch Street, E.C. 72, Regent Street, W. In DOVER : Friend & Co , Northumberland House, also on the Dover Admiralty Pier. Railway Routes 13* SOUTH-EASTERN & CHATHAM RAILWAY. ROYAL MAIL EXPRESS SERVICES TO THE CONTINENT VIA Dover Folkestone Queenboro Dover Calais * Boulogne Flushing * Ostend LONDON & PARIS & 7 HOURS BY THE SHORT SEA AND MAIL ROUTES. The New Turbine Steamers “ Jnvicta,” “ Onward, and “ The Queen,” cross the Channel daily between Dover and Calais, also between Folkestone and Boulogne. RESTAURANT CARS BETWEEN CALAIS AND BOULOGNE AND PARIS. FRIDAY, SATURDAY, and SUNDAY, to MONDAY or TUESDAY TICKETS ARE ISSUED FROM CHARING CRJSS (West End), CANNON ST, & LONDON BRIDGE TO Bexhill, Canterbury West, Deal. Dover, Folkestone Central, Folkestone Junction, Hastings, Hythe, Lydd, Maidstone, Margate, New Romney (Littlestone-on-Sea), Ramsgate, Rye, St Lawrence, St. Leonards-on-Sea (Warrior Square), Sandgate, Sandhng Junction, Sand- wich, Shorncliffe Camp, Southborough, Tonbridge, Tunbridge Wells, Walmer, and Whitstable-on-Sea. ALSO FROM VICTORIA (West End), HOLBORN VIADUCT, and ST. PAUL’S to Bexhill, Birchington-on-Sea, Broadstairs, Canterbury East, Deal, Dover, Faversham, Hastings, Herne Bay, Maidstone, Margate, Ramsgate, St Leonards, Sheer- ness, Sittingbourne (for Milton). Tunbridge Wells, Walmer, Westgate*on-Sea, and Whitstable-on Sea For Fares and further particul »rs respecting the Cheap Tickets, see time-books and programme. VINCENT W. HILL, General Manager, 14 * Railway Routes London and South Western Railway. THE SHORTEST, QUICKEST, AND BEST ROUTE between LONDON ... AND THE ... 7VT T?QT OF ENGLAND VlWI-Ei U X ILFRACOMBE, &c. SOUTH COAST WEYMOUTH, 4 Routes to the ISLE of WIGHT THA.VEL A.3STY ...AND... BREAKFAST, LUNCH. Between BOURNEMOUTH ! WEST of ENGLAND ^ and WATERLOO STATION EXPRESS TRAINS from WATERLOO STATION 1 — 6 BOURNEMOUTH PLYMOUTH mm CO 0 "■ ° PORTSMOUTH SIDMOUTH n -- 2o SOUTHSEA SEATON 4 - o ™ — 45 ISLE OF WIGHT LYME REGIS ■ — io S* — 1 5 EXETER ILFRACOMBE pm — 44 0 - 58 EXMOUTH BUDE K - 26 O “I* SWANAGE BIDEFORD 0 - ° WEYMOUTH BARNSTAPLE V — o e— = LYNTON PADSTOW 6-26 Corridor Coaches. Saloon, Ladies' Compartments. Lavatory Compartments. Invalid, fc Family Carriages provided. Luggage in Advance. STEAMSHIP SERVICES FROM SOUTHAMPTON TO THE FRENCH COAST, FOR PARIS AND ALL PARTS OF THE CONTINENT, CHANNEL ISLANDS, Etc, Express Boat Trains from LONDON ( Waterloo ) in connection. SOUTH-WESTERN HOTEL, SOUTHAMPTON, Under the Company’s Management. l*or particulars of above, also Tourist and Excursion arrangements, >tainable at any of the Company’s Stations, or upon application to Mr. Henry Holmes, Superintendent of the Line, Waterloo Station, S.E. CHAS. J. OWENS, General Manager. Railway Routes 15* DECIDE TO SPEND YOUR HOLIDAYS IN THE ISLE OF WIGHT (THE GARDEN OF ENGLAND). WARM IN WINTER. COOL IN SUMMER. Fashionable Watering Places, Combined with Quiet Seaside Resorts. Unrivalled Golfing Facilities. Nine Golf Linhs within a radius of Nine Miles. CHARMING & VARIED SCENERY. BEAUTIFUL WALKS & DRIVES. The Best and Safest Bathing in the British Isles. BEAUTIFUL SAN US. SAFE BOATING. YACHTING. COLFINC. FISHING (FRESH AND SALT WATER). Osborne Now Open to the Public every Tuesday & Friday. Cheap Bookings from all Island Stations to Cowes and Whippingham Stations (from which Osborne is easy of access). DURING THE SEASON Cheap railway excursions to all parts daily. Weekly Tickets, covering use of all trains and all railways in the island (except Ryde Pier) for seven days are issued at exceptionally low prices. Pleasant and cheap steamboat excursions almost daily, round the island and to Bournemouth, Weymouth, Swanage, Southampton, Southsea, and Portsmouth (the first naval yard in the world;. Good hotels, boarding and lodging houses, in all parts of the island at reasonable charges. The principal towns and places of interest are Ryde, Cowes, Sandown, Shanklin, Ventnor, Freshwater, Totland Bay, Alum Bay, Newport, Caris- brooke, Osborne, Bonchurch, The Landslip, The Undercliff, Bembridge, St. Helen’s, Brading. Visitors can reach the island by frequent express trains from Waterloo, Victoria, London Bridge, Kensington, Clapham Junction, &c., either via Portsmouth and Ryde, Stokes Bay and Ryde, or Southampton and Cowes. Well-appointed steamers connect at Ryde and Cowes with trains. Free transfer of luggage between the boats and trains. Through tickets to all island stations, 1st, 2nd, and 3rd class, from all stations on the South-Western and South Coast Railways. During the summer season, May 1st to September 30th, Tourist Tickets, available for six months, are issued from Waterloo, Victoria, London Bridge, Kensington, Clapham Junction, &c. Also Eight and Fifteen Day Tickets at a fare of 11 /- (3rd class). Cheap Week-End Tickets are also issued all the year round, by all trains, on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays, available for return by any train on any day (except on Fridays and Saturdays) up to and including the following Tuesday, at the following fares — 1st class return, 23/6 ; 2nd class return, 15 /- ; 3rd class return, 12/- List of Apartments and accommodation at the various Island Watering Places, also Guide, on application to H. K. DAY, Manager, I.W. Railway. CHAS. L. CONACHER, Manager, I.W. Central Railway. July , 1905 . Railway Routes io* THE DISTRICT RAILWAY, EITHER BY ITS OWN LINE OR BY ITS CONNECTIONS, SERVES THE WHOLE OF THE PLAGES OF AMUSEMENT, INTEREST, AND ATTRACTION, IN AND AROUND LONDON. It is the most direct Sc quickest means of conveyance A between \east enq ^qz WEST END< And it Connects with the TERMINI OF ALL THE RAILWAYS RUNNING INTO LONDON. The “DISTRICT RAILWAY’ MAP of LONDON and the “DISTRICT ’ MAP of GREATER LONDON and ENVIRONS, are obtainable at the Company’s Booking Offices, at Station Bookstalls, and of the Principal Booksellers throughout the Kingdom. Price 6d. (on Paper), is. Mounted (in Stiff Cover), 3s. 6d. Mounted, Rollered, and Varnished. Railway Routes 17* LANCASHIRE & YORKSHIRE RAILWAY DIRECT EXPRESS ROUTE BETWEEN THE EAST ANB WEST COASTS . THROUGH FAST TRAINS between Liverpool, Manchester, and A Principal Lancashire Towns, and HALIFAX, BRADFORD, LEEDS, HARROGATE, GOOLE, HULL, YORK, SCARBOROUGH, and NEW- CASTLE, in direct communication with Express Trains to and from all parts of the North-Eastern system. Express Service between LIVERPOOL and MANCHESTER in forty minutes. AN EXCELLENT SERVICE OF TRAINS is in operation between the Principal Stations in Lancashire and Yorkshire, and BLACKPOOL, LYTHAM, SOUTHPORT, and SCOTLAND. Fast Trains run via Preston, and via Hellifield, to all parts of Scotland. Through Lavatory Carriages run between Liverpool (Exchange), Ma Chester (Victoria) and Harwich, in connection with the Continental Boats, via Ilarwich and the Hook of Holland, Rotterdam, and Antwerp. During the Summer months through express trains are run between Manchester (Victoria) and Sheringham and Cromer (Beach). ROYAL MAIL ROUTE to THE NORTH of IRE- LAND, via Fleetwood, Belfast, & Londonderry. The L. & V. and L. & N. W. Company’s Royal Mail Twin-screw Steamers sail daily (Sundays excepted), between Fleetwood and Belfast, open sea passage 5% hours, also between Fleetwood and Londonderry twice weekly. The steamers are lighted with Electricity, and there are Dining Saloons, Ladies’ Cabins, and State Rooms, replete with every modern comfort. Express Trains are run in connection with the Boats between Manchester, Liverpool, Bolton, Bradford, Leeds, Sheffield, Harrogate, York, New- castle, Birmingham, London, and other important Places, and Fleetwood. The Boat Train from Fleetwood to Manchester, in connection with the Steamers from Belfast and Londonderry, is a Vestibule Broakfast Car Train. The Fleetwood route will be found the most expeditious and convenient for the North of Ireland. Passengers and their luggage proceed direct from the train to the steamer by a covered way. No expense is incurred in the transfer of luggage to and from the boats. LIVERPOOL AND DROGHEDA SERVICE. The L. & Y. Co.’s steamers sail between Liverpool (Colling wood Dock) and Drogheda. For particulars of Sailing see Sailing Bills and Cards. IRELAND AND ENGLAND, via DUBLIN AND LIVERPOOL. Steamers leave North Wall daily, Monday to Friday inclusive, at 12 noon and 8.0 p.m., and on Saturdays at 2.0 p.m. and 8 ; o. p.m., in connection at Liverpool with Express Service of Trains to all parts. ISLE OF MAN, via FLEETWOOD, & uia LIVERPOOL. During the Season the Isle of Man Steam Packet Company’s Steamers, sail daily (Sundays excepted), between Fleetwood and Douglas, Isle ot Man, at convenient hours, and daily (Sundays excepted), all the year be- tween Liverpool and Douglas. There is also a service on certain days between Fleetwood and Ramsey, via Douglas, and direct sailing on certain days between Liverpool and Ramsey. Passengers and their luggage are conveyed Free of charge between Liverpool (Exchange Station) and the Drogheda, Dublin and Isle of Man Steamers. Every Friday & Saturday short and long date Tickets are issued by any train from principal stations to Blackpool, Fleetwood, Lytham, St. Anne’s, Southport, Liverpool, Harrogate, Scarborough, &c. For full particulars apply to Mr. Chas. J. Nicholson, Passenger Superintendent, Victoria Station, Manchester. Manchester. JOHN A. F. ASPINALL, General Manager. Guide Series , 1905-6.] 3 Railway Routes 1 8 * FESTINIOG RAILWAY, HB6 celebrated Miniature Line, the original “ TOY RAILWAY,” and the world-renowned pioneer of narrow-gauge railways, is situated in the centre of the finest scenery in the Principality. In its continuous ascent from Portmadoc to the Festiniog slate quarries it traverses, by means of sharp curves and gradients, a rugged but most picturesque tract of country, and in its windings along the hill sides at a great height above the valley it con- tinually discloses fresh views of river, sea, and mountain, amongrt which is comprised the grand panorama of the Snowdon range. It is yearly visited by thousands of tourists, who are charmed with the novelty of the line and its surroundings. It is readily accessible from all parts of the country, through Bettws-y-Coed via the London and North-Western Railway ; or through Bala, via the Great Western Railway, changing in each case at Blaenau Festiniog ; or through Barmouth or Afonwen, via the Cambrian Railways, changing at Minffordd. It forms the most direct route between the seaside resorts on the north, and those on the south and west coasts of North Wales. CIRCULAR TOUR TICKETS are issued by the London and North-Western, Great Western, and Cambrian Railway Companies, available over the Line and in connec- tion with four-horse coaches running through the Snowdon district. NORTH WALES. J. S. HUGHES, General Manager. • Povimadoc , 1905. Railway Routes CAMBRIAN RAILWAYS. Delightful Spring, Summer, and Winter Resorts. Magnificent Sea and Mountain Scenery, combined with Bracing Climate. Temperature in Winter and Spiing is higher than that of most Watering Places in the South and West of England. Excellent Golf Links adjacent to the Railway. BATHING. COACHING. FISHING (Sea, River, Lake). BOATING. GOLFING. MOUNTAINEERING. TOURIST, WEEK END, AND TEN DAYS TICKETS (ist. 2nd, and 3rd Class, from the piincipal Towns in England) aie issued through- out the year to the Cambr.ail Coast. DAILY EXPRESS TRAIN SERVICE, with Through Carriages from London, Leeds Birmingham, Manchester, Liverpool, Sheffield, &c., to the Cambrian Coast. CHEAP DAY TICKETS at greatly Reduced Fares between all Cambrian Coast Stations during the Summer. ABOUT 30 RAIL AND COACH EXCURSIONS DAILY Cycling & Walking Tour Tickets at Reduced Fares. CAMBRIAN RAILWAYS' PUBLICATIONS Cardigan Bay Illus- trated, ‘ “Picturesque Wales,’ “A Souvenir of Wild Wales ’ (price 6d.), “ List of Farmhouses and Seaside Lodgings " (price id.), ‘ Charming Cambria’ (price is.). The above, together with Tourist Programmes, Time Tables, etc , and all information, can be obtained at the London Offices of the L. & N.W. and G. W. Cos., at the undermen ine 1 District Offices of the Company ; or from Mr. W. IL Gough, Traffic Superintendent, Oswestry. Birmingham— 137, Corporation Street; Sheffield— Mersrs. D< an & Dawson, 7, Haymarket ; Bradford -Messrs. Dean & Dawson, 83. Market Street; Oldham— Mr. L. R. Stanton, 112. Union Street; Liverpool District 108, Victoria Road, New Brighton, Birkenhead * Cardiff — The Exchange ; Manchester- 45, Piccadilly. THE BRITISH RIVIERA. ABERYSTWYTH. BARMOUTH. ABERDOVEY. BORTH. HARLECH. CRICCIETH. PWLLHELI. TOWYN. From Cambrian Stations during the Summer, also Oswestry , March , 1905. C. S. DENNISS, Secretary and General Manager. 20 v Railway Routes VISIT KILKEE, SPANISH POINT, LAHINCH,, LISDOONVARNA AND THE Unrivalled Cliff and Coast Scenery OF West 4 - THE DIRECT ROUTE TO THESE Famous Health and Pleasure Resorts IS BV THE WEST & SOUTH GLARE RAILWAYS From ENNIS to ENN1STYMON (for Lisdoonvarna), LAHINCH (for the Golf Greens and the Cliffs of Moher), MILLTOWN-MALBAY (for Spanish Point), and Kl^KEE. THROUGH TOURIST TICKETS are issued at the principal Railway Stations in Ireland and England , also at the Offices of Thos. Cook & Son, and Dean & Dawson ; and at the Irish Railway Companies’ Tourist Office, 2 , Charing Cross, London, S.W. For information as to Fares, Routes, Hotels, Golfing, Fishing, &c., apply to — ' PATRICK SULLIVAN, Manager. West Clare Railway , Ennis , 1905. Steamer Routes 21* GRAND HOLIDAY SEA TRIPS (Magnificent Coast Scenery) BETWEEN LONDON & DUBLIN AND THE SOUTH OF ENGLAND. The best route for Cornwall, Devon, Wilts, Sussex, Kent, Essex, Hants, and Surrey, and for the Scilly Islands, the Isle of Wight, the Channel Islands, and France. THE LARGE FIRST-CLASS STEAMERS OF THE British & Irish Steam Packet Company, Ltd,, Leave London and Dublin twice a week, calling both ways at Portsmouth, Southampton, Plymouth, and Falmouth. Loyo ! l-'rom London— Sundays and Wednesdays. OdllllJg Ddjo j Fvorti Dublin — Wednesdays and Saturdays. FLEET:— “ Lady Roberts ” 1,462 tons 1 “ Lady Wolseley ’ 1,424 tons “ Lady Hudson-Kinahan ' 1,372 ,, | l ' Lady Martin ” 1,355 ,, Lady Olive ” 1,096 tons These vessels have superior accommodation for First and Second Cabin and Steerage Passengers, are fitted with Electric Light, have Deck State Rooms, Smoke Rooms, &c., and carry Stewaids and Stewardesses. Circular Tours from LONDON to Killarney, Cork and South of Ireland, Isle of Man. Glasgow &c., from SOUTH OF ENGLAND Ports to Isle of Man, Connemara, and West of Ireland (June to September), and from DUBLIN to Channel Islands and France, via Southampton. Scilly Islands.— Passengers for these charming Islands land at Falmouth and travel via Penzance. London, Dublin, and Isle of Man Tours, 42/- Return 1st Class to Dublin by this Company s Steamers, thence by Isle of Man S.P. Company s Steamers, or per S.S. “YARROW. Splendid Summer Service from Dublin. From Portsmouth & Southamp- ton, £2 ; Plymouth, £1 15s. ; Falmouth, £1 12s 6d. SPECIAL CHEAP EXCURSION TICKETS, First and Second Cabin, available for 16 days, are issued between anv two of the following Ports— Dublin, Falmouth, Plymouth, Southampton, Portsmouth, at a Single Fare and a Quaiter. Ordinary Return Tickets are available for three months. Private Cabins can be reserved on payment of extra charge on early application being made for same. Company’s Illustrated Handbook sent post fiee from any of the Company’s Offices, or obtainable on board the Steamers. AGENTS : — 30, Eden Quay, Dublin, Carolin & Egan. London : James Hartley & Co., 19, Leadenhall Street, E.C. ; North Quay, Eastern Basin, London Docks, E. Plymouth : R. Clark & Son, Millbay Pier ; H. J Waring & Co., Millbay Pier. Southampton : Le Feuvre & Son, 8 , Gloucester Square. Falmouth: W. & E. C. Came, Market Street. Portsmouth : J. M. Harris, 10, Broad Street. Tickets are also issued by Messrs. THOS. COOK. X SON, Dublin and London , and Branches • Chief Offices : — 3, North Wall, Dublin. A. \V. Egan, Secretary. Telegraphic Address : — “AWE, DUBLIN.” NOTE. — Dublin Temporary Berth , 04 , Sir John Rogerson’s Quay. 22 Steamer Routes On the Magnificent Ocean Yacht “Argonaut.” Tonnage 3,274, H.P. 4,000 Autumn, Winter, & Spring Cruises to the Mediterranean. Autumn Cruise to the Baltic, including the Northern Capitals of Europe. £10 10s. Cruises to Norwegian Fjords. £10. 10s. Tours to Rome. £5 5s. Tours to Lucerne. Orgai ized by Henry S. Lunn, M.D., W. Holdsworth Lunn, and Connop F. S. Perowne. Full pariiculars from the Secretary, 5, Endsleigh Gardens, Euston, London, N.W. Norway, Denmark, and Germany. The First Class Passenger Steamers of The Leith, Hull, and Hamburg Steam Packet Company, Ltd., sail as under-noted (unless prevented by the weather or unforeseen circumstances) : — From Leith to Christiansand, every Thursday, for Bergen, the Hard- anger, Saetersdal, and Christiania. Retut ning every Friday. From Leith to Copenhagen, every Thursday, for Gothenburg, the Gota Canal, and Stockholm. Returning every Thursday. From Leith to Hamburg, every Wednesday and Saturday, for Berlin, Dresden, Vienna, Munich, the Harz Mountains, the Rhine, and Switzer- land. Returning every Monday and Friday. Cabin Fares to or from Leith (including provisions) : — Copenhagen and Christiansand, single, £3 3s. Od., return, £5 5s. Od. Hamburg, single, £2 IOs. Od., return, £4- 4s. Od. These Tickets issued on board from one hour before the advertised sailing hour. Through Fares (including Provisions in Company’s Steamers): — To Christiania, £4 Os. Od. To Bergen, £4 7s. 6d. To Berlin, £3 IOs. Od. CIRCULAR TOURS. A Handbook may be had on application, with maps and details of these and of the most interesting Tours among THE FJELDS AND FJORDS OF NORWAY. Fares for tne Rounl : — LEITH and BACK. Tour I. — Hamburg, Kiel, Copenhagen, Christiansand, £6 8s. Od. Tour II. — Hamburg, Vamdrup, Fredericia, Nyborg, Korsoer, Copenhagen, Christiansand, £6 I2s. 6d. Tour III. — Hamburg, Berlin, Rostock, Copenhagen, Christiansand, £7 13s. Od. The above Fares are Cabin and 2nd Class Rail, but 1st Class Rail Tickets can be had if desired. Tickets are also issued for three extensions to SWEDEN at £2 8s. 5d., £6 3s. Od., and £6 lls. 6d. respectively, enabling tourists to visit the famous Gota Canal and Stockholm. Particulars on application. HOLIDAY TOURS IN NORWAY. Ten Days for £8 8s. Od. ; Seventeen Days for £10 IOs. Od., including all expenses. Full particulars on application. Passengers wishing through tickets for any of the tours must write to the office not later than the day before sailing, stating which tour they intend to take. The tours may be taken in either direction, and the journey broken at any point. For further details and particulars of sailings to Bremen, Hull, Newcastle, Sunderland, &c., apply to the Managers. JAMES CURRIE & CO., Leith. Steamer Routes 23* SUMMER TOURS IN SCOTLAND. g _ GLASGOW and the HIGHLANDS. The Royal Mail Swift Passenger Steamer “COLUMBA” or “IONA” Sails Daily (Sunday excepted) during the season, from Glasgow Bridge Wharf at 7 a.m. ; Greenock, Custom House Quay, 8.40 a.m., Princes Pier (Greenock), 9 a.m. ; Gourock Pier, 9.15 a.m., and Dunoon, 9.30 a.m. (additional services during height of Season ), in conned :on with Express Trains from London and the South, Edinburgh, Glasgow, &c., for ROTHESAY, KYLES OF BUTE, TARBERT, & ARDRISHAIG, Conveying Passengers via Crinan and Caledonian Canals for OBAN, STAFFA & IONA, GLENCOE, FORT- WILLIAM, INVERNESS, LOCH AWE, LOCH LOMOND, LOCH KATRINE, THE TROSSACHS, LOCH TAY, LOCH EARN, LOCH SCAVAIC, LOCH CORUISK, MULL, SKYE, GAIRLOCH, LOCH MAREE, LOCHINVER, STORNOWAY, ISLAY, &c. DAILY PLEASURE SAILING. Circular Tours by the Swift Steamers. Weekly Cruises by Claymore, Clansman, &Caualier. Official Guide, 6d. Tourist Programme free by Post from DAVID MACBRAYNE, 119, Hope Street, Glasgow, ROYAL ^ ROUTE. I905. Steamer Routes 24* bON DON AND LeitH. NEAREST PORT FOR EDINBURGH. ♦ The London and Edinburgh Shipping Co.’s First-class Steamships 9 FINGAL, IONA, MALVINA, MARMION, Lighted by Electricity (New Steamer building, expected ready early in August), Or other of the Company’s vessels, are intended to sail (weather, casualties, and strikes excepted) as follows, from Hermitage Steam Wharf, Wapping, E., every Tuesday, Wednesday, and Saturday ; and from Victoria Wharf, Leith, every Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday. Fares.— First Cabin (including Steward’s fee), 22/- Second Cabin, 16/- Deck (Soldiers and Sailors only), 10/- KrXSTXTRN TICKETS, Available for six months (including Steward’s fee both ways)— First Cabin, 34/-; Second Cabin, 24/6 REDUCED PASSENGER FARES OCTOBER TO MAY INCLUSIVE. CHEAP CIRCULAR TOURS Round the Land’s End, in connection with Clyde Shipping Company’s Steamers.— Fare, first cabin, 47/6 By Bristol Channel, in connection with Messrs. Sloan & Co.’s Steamers. — Fare, first cabin, 35/- Railway fares extra. Round the North of Scotland, in connection with Messrs. Langlands & Sons’ Steamers, to Liverpool. — Fare, first cabin, London to Liverpool, 60/- By British and Irish Steam Packet Company’s Steamer to Dublin, thence via Silloth to Edinburgh, returning by this Company’s Steamer to London. — Fares for the round, saloon and first class rail, 52/- ; saloon and third class rail, 47/- By North of Scotland Steamers to Orkney and Shetland.— To Kirkwall and Stromness, first class, single 40/- ; return, 60/- Second class, single, 22/-; return, 33/- To Lerwick and Scalloway, first class, single, 45/- ; return, 67/6. Second class, single, 23/6 ; return, 35/- Apply, in LONDON, to London and Edinburgh Shipping Co., Hermitage Steam Whaif. Wapping, E. ; M’Dougall & Bonthron, Ltd., 72, Mark Lane, E.C. EDIN BURGH — Cowan & Co, 14 , North Bridge. GLASGOW— Cowan & Co., 23, St. Vincent Place. LEITH — 8 and 9, Commercial Street. THOMAS AITKEN, Manner. Telegraphic Addresses.— London, “Edina”; Leith, “Aitken.” London, Telephone No. 2394 ; Leith, Telephone No. 403. Steamer Routes 25 * BATAYIER LINE LONDON, ROTTERDAM, THE RHINE. Most Comfortable and Cheapest Route. From London, from alongside Brunswick Pier, Blackwall, daily, Sundays excepted. From the 1st June till 30th September, at 4.30 p.m. From the 1st Oct. till 31st May, at 3 p.m. Passengers must leave Fenchurch Street Station, by train, 40 minutes previous to the time of departure of the steamers from Blackwall. SEA VOYAGE, ~7h HOURS. Fares : London-Rotterdam, first class, Single, 19/6 ; Return, 30/- „ s , „ second „ „ 12/- ; „ 18/- The Service will be maintained by the New and Fast Passenger Steamers, “ BATAVIER II.,” “III.,” “IV.,” “V., 5 ’ which have spacious Saloons, State Cabins on deck, and are fitted up similar to the latest Atlantic Liners. Write for full particulars , BATAVIER LINE, CUSTOM HOUSE AND WOOL QUAYS, LOWER THAMES STREET, E.C. Telegraphic Address — “ Batauier,” London. Telephone Nos. 2470 , 2471, 2475, Auenue. LIVERPOOL & NORTH WALES. Daily Sailings (Sundays included), by New Palatial Saloon Steamer “La Marguerite,” also “St. Tudno,” “St. Elvies,” and “Snowdon,” between Liverpool, Llandudno, Beaumaris, Bangor, and Menai Bridge ; leaving Liverpool daily at 10.45 a.m., due back 7.30 p.m., allowing four hours ashore at Llandudno. Daily Excursions from Llandudno to Menai Straits and Carnarvon, also frequent Sea Trips round the Island of Anglesey, Douglas (Isle of Man), Holyhead, Blackpool, etc. (low fares). For all further particulars apply to any of the Company's Agents at the respective Piers , or to the Liverpool and North I Pales Steamship Company, Limited, T. G. Brew, Secretary, 40 , Chapel Street, Liverpool . Official Guide, with special map, post tree 3 ( 1 . Guide Book Advertiser HOUSEHOLD REMOVALS TO AND FROM ALL PARTS. CORTISS & SONS, LTD. ♦ DEPOSITORIES. PORTSMOUTH - - LONDON - GOSPORT - - SOUTHAMPTON - RYDE - PLYMOUTH - DEVONPORT - CHATHAM - NEW BROMPTON - SHEERNESS - Royal Pantechnicon 23, West Smithfield, E.C. 60, High Street 28, Queen’s Terrace 1, Esplanade The Refinery, Mill Lane 46/9, Chapel Street 361, High St., Rochester 6, High Street 56, High St., Blue Town FURNITURE WAREHOUSED ESTIMATES FREE. Steamer Routes 27* IMPERIAL DIRECT West India Mail Service Go., Ltd. (Carrying His Majesty’s Mails.) TRIPS TO clTKMTSieTK (“The New Riviera.”) Magnificent Scenery. Delig'htful Climate. F01 HEALTH AND PLEASURE. FLEET : — R.M.S. PORT KINGSTON R.M.S. PORT ROYAL j R.M.S. PORT ANTONIO R.M.S. PORT MORANT I R.M.S. PORT MARIA TTHE ABOVE STEAMERS have been specially constructed for this service, and have excellent accommodation for passengers, being replete with every luxury and convenience. High-class Cuisine, Hot and Cold Water Baths, Electric Light, Electric Bells, &c., &c. A fully-qualified Surgeon, and a large staff of competent Stewards and Stewardesses, carried on each snip. Regular Fortnightly Sailings (every alternate Saturday) from BRISTOL (Avonmouth Dock), to KINGSTON, JAMAICA, also landing Passengers and Mails at TURK S ISLAND on the outward voyage. SPECIAL TRIPS DURING*™ SUMMER MONTHS. ♦ During the Summer Months (May to September inclusive) the Company offer a Special Rate of TWENTY-FIVE GUINEAS for Tourists. This rate includes Saloon accommodation on the Steamer Out and Home, and free stay at the Company ’s^ Hotel, “The Constant Spring,” during the time elapsing between the arrival and departure of the steamer in Jamaica. The Hotel is situated in the Blue Mountains, about seven miles from Kingston. Electric Cars running between there and the town at frequent intervals. ELDER, DEMPSTER & CO., Canada House , Bristol. African House, Liverpool; 4, St. Mary Axe, London; Man- chester, Cardiff, Hamburg, Antwerp, &c., also at all Offices of Messrs. Thos. Cook & Son. Railway Routes 28* THE BIBBY LINE OF TWIX- SCREW MAIL STEAMERS To CEYLON, BURMAH, & SOUTHERN INDIA. SAILING FOB l NIGHTLY, Offers Special Facilities for Passengers to and from South of France, The Riviera, Italian Lakes, Corsica, Egypt, Palestine, etc. As the bulk of the Eastern Passengers by this line embark and disem- bark at Marseilles, those desirous of the short trip (6£ days) between England and Marseilles^are afforded very ample acccommodation on these fine twin-screw vessels, at very moderate rates. For such as desire a week at sea, with the most favourable surroundings, this has become a very favourite trip. Passengers taking Return Tickets from Liverpool have the option of returning by any of the Bibby Line Steamers, or overland through Paris to London, first-class ; similarly, passengers may proceed to Marseilles from London by Rail, and return by Sea. First Class Fare, £ 8 8s., Single ; £15 Return. For all further information apply to Messrs. Br.BY BROTHERS & CO., 26, Chapel St., LIVERPOOL, and 10 & 11, Mincing Lane, LONDON, E.C. ; or to Messrs. THOMAS COOK & SON’S Offices. TWENTY-THIRD EDITION. HAYDN’S Dictionarp of Dates and Universal Information. A Complete Record of all Nations and times, with Especial Reference to the History and Achieve- ments of the British Empire. Containing the History of the World to the beginning of 1904. Medium 8vo, cloth, 21 /-; half-calf, 25 /-; full or tree calf, 31 / 6 . LONDON : WARD, LOCK & CO., LTD. Guide Book Advertiser 2Q Detective and Adventure Series Copyright. Large demy 8vo. Attractive Wrapper. Illustrated. 30T NO PROOF Lawrence L. Lynch 302 NINETEEN THOUSAND POUNDS Word Delannoy 303 OUT FROM THE NIGHT A. M. Meadows 304 THE CIRCULAR STUDY A. K. Green 305 CAGED Headon Hill 306 A STUDY IN SCARLET Sir A. Conan Doyle 307 HIGH STAKES Lawrence L. Lynch 308 BETWEEN THE LINES - B. Delannoy 309 FALSE EVIDENCE... E. P. Oppenheim 310 THE LEAVENWORTH CASE.. A. K. Green 311 THE LAST STROKE Lawrence L. Lynch 312 THE MYSTERIOUS BURGLAR .. .G. Walsh 313 THE WORLD’S FINGER ... T. W. Hanshew 314 THE BROTHERHOOD OF THE SEVEN KINGS . ....L. T. Meade 315 THE MARGATE MURDER MYSTERY ... Burford Delannoy 316 AGAINST ODDS Lawrence L. Lynch 317 FOR ENGLAND ... ... Morice Gerard 318 THE FOG PRINCES Florence Warden 319 LADY TURPIN Henry Herman 320 A SECRET SERVICE Wm. Le Queux 321 A SOCIAL HIGHWAYMAN ... ... ... E. P. Train 322 UNDER FATE’S WHEEL Lawrence L. Lvnch 323 SHOULD SHE HAVE SPOKEN ? ... E. Miller 324 THE SANCTUARY CLUB .... L. T. Meade 325 BEYOND THE LAW Gertrude Warden 326 THE MAN OF THE MOMENT Gerard 327 MOINA ... Lawrence L. LynGh 328 THE JEWEL OF DEATH Huan Mee 329 OUTLAWS ... W. Clarke Little 330 STORMLIGHT J. E. Muddock 331 PRINCE OF DARKNESS ... ... Florence Warden 332 A RACE WITH THE SUN... L. T. Meade 333 THE CRIME AND THE CRIMINAL Richard Marsh 334 THE ADVENTURES OF ROMNEY PRINGLE ..Clifford Ashdown 335 A FATAL LEGACY ... Louis Tracy 336 THE STOLEN PEARL........... Gertrude Warden 337 THE FRENCH MASTER Wiison Barrett 338 A SLENDER CLUE Lawrence L. Lynch 339 SORCERESS OF THE STRAND L. T. Meade 340 A STRANGE DISAPPEARANCE A. K. Green 341 THE QUEEN OF NIGHT ... ... Headon Hill 342 A CONFLICT OF EVIDENCE R. Ottolengui 343 MARKED “PERSONAL”... ... A. K. Green 344 ARTHUR GORDON PYM Edgar A. Poe 345 THE HOUSE OF USHER .. ... Ditto 346 PHILIP BENNION’S DEATH ...Marsh 347 THE LOST SQUARE L. T. Meade 348 A MODERN WIZARD R. Ottolengui 349 THE INDIAN BANGLE Fergus Hume 350 CYNTHIA WAKEHAMS MONEY A. K. Green 351 THE PERILS OF THE RED BOX .. Headon Hill 352 A MASTER OF MYSTERIES L. T. Meade 353 M.R.C.S. ... ... ... ... ... ... Burford Delannoy 354 THE FEVER OF LIFE Fergus Hume 355 ONE OF MY SONS A. K. Green 356 THE MAN WITH THE WHiTE FACE Morice Gerard 357 THE TRAIL OF THE DEAD ... ... B. Fletcher Robinson LONDON: WARD , LOCK & CO., LIMITED. 30 Guide Book Advertiser STANDARD NOVELS and POPULAR BOOKS. SIXPENNY LITHO ’ NOVELS ( COPYRIGHT ). Large Demy 8vo. Lithographed Covers. Illustrated. i A Bid for Fortune Guy Boothby 3 Bound to Win Smart 4 Geoffry Hamlyn Henry Kingsley 5 Katerfelto G. J. Whyte-Melville 8 Captain Shannon Coulson Kernahan 9 Random Shots Max Adeler 12 Mr. Witt’s Widow Anthony Hope 13 Pharos, the Egyptian Guy Boothby 14 Saddle and Sabre Hawley Smart 16 The Dorrington Deed Box Arthur Morrison 17 Market Harborough Whyte-Melville 18 A Monk of Cruta E. P. Oppenheim 21 Christine of the Hills Max Pemberton 22 The Great Tontine Hawley Smart 23 An Old Fogey Max Adeler 24 A Maker of Nations Guy Boothby 25 In Full Cry R. Marsh 26 A Daughter of the Marionis Oppenheim 27 A Sensational Case Florence Warden 28 Hard Lines H. Smart 30 Social Sinners Ditto 31 Chronicles of Martin Hewitt A. Morrison 32 Black, but Comely Whyte-Melville 33 Love Made Manifest Guy Boothby 34 A False Start H. Smart 35 Broken Bonds Ditto 36 Martin Hewitt, Investigator Morrison 37 At Fault H. Smart 38 The World’s Great Snare Oppenheim 39 To Leeward Crawford 40 The Right Sort Mrs. Kennard 41 Agatha Webb Green 42 Captain Landon Richard H. Savage 43 Tie and Trick Smart 44 Scoundrels & Co. Coulson Kernahan 45 The Man and His Kingdom Oppenheim 46 A Prince of Swindlers Guy Boothby 47 Adventures of Martin Hewitt A. Morrison 48 The Unseen Hand L. L. Lynch 49 A Race for a Wife Hawley Smart 50 Satanella G. J. Whyte-Melville 51 The Temptress Wm. Le Queux 52 Elbow Room Adeler 53 False Cards H. Smart 54 A Millionaire of Yesterday Oppenheim 55 The Red Rat’s Daughter Boothby 56 For the Religion Hamilton Drummond 57 Play or Pay H. Smart 58 The Brookes of Bridle= mere Whyte-Melville 59 Cecile Hawley Smart 60 Long Live the King Boothby LONDON: WARD , LOCK & CO .. LIMITED . Guide Book Advertiser 3i Standard Novels and Popular Books — continued. 61 The Mystery of Mr. Bernard Brown E. P. Oppenheim 62 Holmby House G. J. Whyte-Melville 63 The Whirligig Lindsay 64 Jan Oxber Orme Agnus 65 Stolen Souls Le Queux 66 Two Kisses H. Smart 67 The Red Chancellor Sir W. Magnay 68 Ravenshoe H. Kingsley 69 Sunshine and Snow Hawley Smart 70 My Indian Queen Guy Boothby 71 Zoraida Wm. Le Queux 72 As a Man Lives E. P. Oppenheim 73 Belles & Ringers Smart 74 Sarchedon G J. White-Melville 75 The Shadow of the Czar Carling 76 Half a Hero A. Hope 77 Across the World for a Wife Guy Boothby 78 Courtship H. Smart 79 Tilbury Nogo G. J. Whyte-Melville 80 The Fighting Trouba= dour A. C. Gunter 81 A Woman of Wiles Alick Munro 82 A Sailor’s Bride Guy Boothby 83 Lady Barbarity Snaith 84 Uncle John G. J. Whyte-Melville 85 The Empty Hotel A. C. Gunter 86 The Man of the Hour Sir W. Magnay 87 The Survivor E. P. Oppenheim 88 From Post to Finish Hawley Smart ' 89 The Channings Mrs. Henry Wood 90 The Induna’s Wife Bertram Mitford 91 Sheilah McLeod Guy Boothby 92 The Great Awaken = ing Oppenheim 93 The Spy Company A. C. Gunter 94 The Ruby Sword Bertram Mitford 95 The Marriage of Esther Boothby 96 Rainbow Island Tracy 97 Mrs. Halliburton’s Troubles Mrs. Wood 98 In Strange Company Guy Boothby 99 The Sword in the Air A. C. Gunter 100 MysteriousMr. Sabin Oppenheim 101 The Trifler A. Eyre 102 A Race with Ruin Hill 103 The Kidnapped President Boothby 104 Sarah Tuldon Agnus 105 The City of Mystery A. C. Gunter 106 The Albert Gate Affair Louis Tracy 107 The Viking’s Skull J. R. Carling 108 The Man of the Moment Gerard 109 A Social High way = man E. P. Train no Lady Turpin Herman in The Margate Murder Mystery Delannoy 1 12 My Strangest Case Guy Boothby 1 13 Comedies of Court- ship A. Hope 1 14 The Wayfarers Snaith 1 15 Connie Burt Boothby LONDON: WARD, LOCK A CO., LI Ml LED, Steamer Routes G.S.N.e. TOURS. With BEST HOTELS, FULL BOARD, and First-Class Travel throughout. BORDEAUX and ARCACHON 12 days’ Tour BORDEAUX, PYRENEES, &c. 12 days’ Tour PYRENEES GRAND CIRCULAR TOUR 19 days OSTEND 2 days Tour £\ 4 s ; 3 days, /I 12s to days OSTEND, BRUGES BRUSSELS, ARDENNES 9 days' Tour RHINE, MEUSE, MOSELLE Grand 16 days Tour EDINBURGH 5 days Tour LOCH ECK, LOCH FYNE, ETC. 6 days CALEDONIAN CANAL 13 days Tour STAFFA and IONA 9 days’ Tour HARLINGEN and ZUIDER ZEE 5 days’ Cruise HAMBURG ... 5 days’ Tour, £4 16 9. 6 days SCANDINAVIAN GOTHA CANAL TOUR 16 days HAMBURG, KIEL, KORSOR, and COPENHAGEN ... 6 days Tour ITALIAN SICILIAN CRUISE about 7 weeks ALGERIAN.. 19 days’ Tour £7 7 0 7 10 O 13 19 6 3 19 6 4 11 6 13 O O 2 19 6 4 10 O 12 12 O 7 17 6 2 12 6 5 9 9 16 16 O 6 17 10 21 O O 19 19 O Illustrated Guide, with splendid Road . Rail and Route Maps, by Post 2 d General Steam Navigation, Co., Ltd., 55, GREAT TOWER STREET, E.C. WARD, LOCK & CO.’S Botel, Bpdropatbic establishment, AND Boarding Bouse Directorp. INDEX. PAGE Aberdeen... ;v. ... 2 Aberystwyth ... ... ... 2 Ambleside ... l6 Barnstaple ... 3 Barmouth • 2. 3 Barton-on-Sea Bath 4 Beaumaris 3 Bettws-y-Coed 3 Bideford ... 4 Birmingham 6 Bishop’s Teignton 41 Blackpool 3 Blair Atholl 6 Boscastle ... 3 Bournemouth ... 6 Bowness ... 1 C Bridlington 6 Bundoran 5 Buxton ON 00 0 p Cambridge ... ... ... 12 Caragh Lake 23 Clevedon ... ... ... ... II Colwyn Bay ... 12 Coventry ... ... ... II Cromer ... 14 Cruden Bay 13 Douglas ... ... ... ... 22 Dovedale . 13 Dovercourt 14 Dublin 14 Dukeries, The 15 Eastbourne 14 Edinburgh 15 Edwinstowe 15 Exeter 18 Falmouth l8 Felixstowe l8 Harrogate ... ... 18, 19 Hunstanton •• 19 Ilfracombe ... 19, 20, 21, 27 Instow 22 Inverness 24 Ipswich ... 22 Isle of Man 22 Isle of Wight 21 Jersey 24 Kenmare .. 23 Keswick ... 17 Lee Bay ... 27 Liverpool... 3 1 5 32 Guide Series, 1905-6 \ PAGE Lizard, The 27, 28 Llandrindod Wells ... 26 Llandudno 24, 25 I .lanfairfechan ... 26 Llangammarch Wells 26 Llangollen 26 Loch Awe 31 London 26, 27 Lowestoft ... 28 Lynmouth 30, 31 Lynton ... ... 29 Margate 33 Matlock 33 Minehead 33 Mullion Cove ... 33 Newquay ••• 34 Oswestry... ••• 34 Oxford 35 Parknasilla 23 Patterdale 17 Penzance 35, 36 Plymouth ... 36 Pwllheli ... 36 Ramsgate 36 Rhyl ... 36 Ripon ... 36 Rostrevor 5 Salcombe... 37 Saltburn 36 Sark 11 Sandown... ... 21 Scarborough 36, 37 Shanklin .... ... 21 Sidmouth ... 38 Slateford 39 Southport ... 38 Southsea ... 37» 38 Strathpefier 40, 41 Symonds Yat ... ... 41 Teignmouth ... 41 Torquay 41, 42, 43 Ventnor ... 21 Warrenpoint 5 Warwick ... ••• 43 Watergate Bay... ••• 34 Waterville 23 Whitby 43, 44 Windermere 16 Worthing ... 44 Yarmouth 44 Aberdeen — Aberystwyth — Barmouth The PALACE HOTEL OWNED BY THE GREAT NORTH OF SCOTLAND RAILWAY COMPANY. Every accommodation for comfort. Electrically Lighted. Mechanically Ventilated. Hydraulic Lifts. EXCELLENT CUISINE. MODERATE CHARGES. Personally patronised by their Majesties the King and Queen, Their Royal Highnesses the Prince and Princess of Wales, and many other Royal and distinguished visitors. Covered way from Station Platform. Luggage Removed to and from the Hotel Free of Charge. Special. — Visitors should be careful to address communications Pala.ce Hotel, Aberdeen, otherwise inconvenience may arise. Address : MANAGER, Palace Hotel, Aberdeen. See Cruden Bay Hotel, page 13. Aberystwyth-Deva Boarding Establishment. ~ p a a r r a J d n e! Facing Sea. Replete with every Home Comfort. Good Winter Residence. Moderate Terms. Mrs. ASHMALL, Proprietress. Aberystwyth, N. Wales-The Waterloo Hydro ~ F s ea : ns Accommodation for 200 Guests. Electric, Sea Water, and other Medicated Baths. Spacious Lounge, Dining & Drawing Rooms. Electric Light. Excellent Cuisine. Special Terms for Winter Months. Nat. Tel. n. Telegrams — “Waterloo.” For Tariff apply Manageress. Aberystwyth Queen's Hotel, f Th s e » s j a T says A fortnight at Aberystwyth is equal to a month at most Watering Places.” For Tariffs. &c., apply — W. H. PALMER. Aberystwyth -Lenton House ated on* Promenade. Facing Sea. Replete with every Home Comfort. Electric Light. Moderate Terms. Mrs. TREHARNE, Proprietress Aberystwyth Collingwood & down. Excellent cuisine, home comforts, electric light. Sanitary arrangements perfect. Terms Moderate. Mrs. SEARGEANT. flhbPUCfwufh UafAdlinno Victoria Terrace. Modern built house, with AUtiiyblWyill-ndlOQllDOS, every comfort. On sea front. Sheltered from N. & E. winds. First-class Board Residence. Special terms for winter months. The Misses HOLLAND, Proprietresses. Barmouth Cors-y-gedol & Marine Hotelsr^Lf'' the Sea, with south-west aspect. Excellent Cuisine. Moderate Charges. For Terms, apply to Manager. 3 Barmouth — Barnstaple — Barton— Boscastle Barmouth -Hendre Hall En Pension • Grounds. Magnificent views of Bay & Cader Range. Close to Golf Links. Every Com- fort. Tariff on application. Nat. Tel. 20. Mrs. WILLIAMS. BARNSTAPLE. IMPERIAL HOTEL. 7 THIS FIRST-CLASS FAMILY AND RESIDENTIAL HOTEL w has, owing to increased patronage, again been considerably enlarged and is now replete with every comfort. Spacious and lofty Dining, Draw ing, Reading, Billiard, and Smoking Rooms, Lounge and Dark Rooms Choice Wines and Spirits. Excellent Cuisine. Highly recommended* Moderate Tariff. C. A. YOUING, Proprietor. BARTON-ON-SEA, HANTS. One mile from New Milton Station and miles from Bournemouth » Barton Court Hotel. ♦fCEAUTIFULLY situated in its own grounds on Barton Cliffs. M Magnificent Golf Links adjoining Hotel, facing Sea. Professional in attendance (Sunday play allowed). Moderate Terms. Also Inclusive Terms, Friday to Monday. Bracing Air. Close to New Forest. Beaumaris, North Wales.-THE WILLIAMS-BULKELEY APMQ UATflT — First-class Family Hotel. Moderate Tariff AIUTlO flUlDh. JOHN KIDD, Manager. Bettws-y-Coed— Waterloo Hotel • Billiards. Tennis. Posting. Fishing. Excellent Stabling. Motor Garage. Inspection Pit. Hotel ’Bus meets trains. Mrs. McCULLOCK, Proprietress. RlaoVnnnl RrnnVl'inHo Boarding Establishment, 12, Tyldesley DlduJkJJUUi D1 vUiVldHUo Terrace, Promenade. — A High-class Board- ing House. Comfort, Elegance, and Economy. From 6/- per day, inclusive. Tel. No. 0194. Telegrams: u Brooklands, Blackpool.” BOSCASTLE, NORTH CORNWALL. Wellington Hotel Patronised by lioyalty. ♦jl^IGH-CLASS Family and Tourist Hotel and Coaching House. With IP easy distance of Golf Links and Ruins of King Arthur’s Castle. Romantic Scenery. Bracing Air. Excellent Cuisine. Finest and only complete Service of Coaching on the North Coast, being through delightful scenery and uninterrupted sea views. Daily Coaches. H. W. INCE, Proprietor 4 Bath — Bidetord JS ATM. YORK HOUSE HOTEL /^LD-ESTABLISHED and High-class Family Hotel. Patronised by Her Gracious Majesty the late Queen Victoria. Elegant Suites of Rooms ; Handsome Public R.ooms ; Electric Light ; Hydraulic Lift. Beautifully furnished and fitted throughout. Moderate Tariff. Apply Manager. Also Queen’s Hotel, Penzance, Bull Hotel, Cambridge, &c. EDMUND SAUNDERS, Proprietor. 41 B I D E F O R D- *4 CENTRAL FOR THE WHOLE OF NORTH DEVON. Including WESTWARD HO! CLOVELLY, HARTLAND, BUDE, ILFRACOMBE, and LYNTON. Coaches in the Season to above Places. ROYAL HOTEL Adjoining Railway Station. Magnificent Views. THE MOST MODERN HOTEL IN WEST OF ENGLAND. Replete with every convenience and comfort. COMPLETELY SHELTERED FROM EAST AND NORTH-EAST WINDS. Lofty, perfectly ventilated, and handsomely furnished rooms. FORMING CHARMING SUMMER AND WINTER RESORT. One of the mildest and healthiest in the kingdom. CONTINENTAL COURTYARD. Excellent hunting neighbourhood. Finest Stabling and Lock-up Coach- Louses in Devonshire. Refreshment Room and luxurious Double Billiard Room, with direct entrance from Railway Platform. SAVE OMNIBUS AND PORTERAGE. Porters attend every Train. French and German spoken. SPECIALLY REDUCED WINTER TARIFF AND BOARDING TERMS. Cideford—" Chiefly remarkable for having a first-rate hotel.”— Punch, Oct. 5th, 1880. Bun dor an 5 Great Northern Railway Company (IRELAND), - ■ -ALXkiT' " ^ BUMDORAN, CO. DONEGAL. THE GREAT NORTHERN. — Commands fine views of Donegal Bay and the neighbouring Mountain Ranges. Lighted by Electricity throughout. Sea and Fresh Water Baths (Hot or Cold). Excellent Eighteen Hole Golf Links on Hotel Grounds, free to Visitors staying at the Hotel. Croquet. Tennis, Accommodation for Motors. Petrol supplied. Unsur- passed facilities for Lake, River, and Sea Fishing, Coaching. Sea Bathing. ROSTREYOR, CO. DOWN. THE GREAT NORTHERN. — Beautifully situated on Carlingford Lough. Luxuriously fitted and furnished, and lighted by Electricity throughout. Sea and Fresh Water Baths (Hot or Cold). WARRENPOINT, CO. DOWN. THE GREAT NORTHERN.— Situated at the head of Carlingford Lough, commanding uninterrupted views of the Mourne Mountains, the Omeath and Carlingford Plills and shore, and the full extent of the Lough. Hot and Cold Sea or Fresh Water Baths. — ^> 04 - — Combined Rail and Hotel Tickets are issued at the Company’s principal Stations, from which also rooms may be telegraphed for, free of charge, but the issue of Combined tickets to Bundoran is suspended between the 15th July and the 15th September. For terms apply to the Managers at the Hotels. T. MORRISON, Secretary. Amiens Street Terminus, Dublin. May , 1905. 6 Blair Atholl — Birmingham — Bridlington - Buxton ATHOLL ARMS HOTEL AND POSTING ESTABLISHMENT (. ADJOINING THE STATION), BLAIR ATHOLL. D. MACDONALD & SONS, Proprietors. B LAIR ATHOLL is much the nearest and most central point from which to visit Killieerankie, the Queen’s View, Lochs Tummel & Rannoeh, Glen Tilt, Brae- mar, the Falls of Bruar, Garry, Tummel, and Fender ; the Grounds of Blair Castle, &c. ; and it is the most con- venient resting-place for breaking the long railway journey to and from the North of Scotland. POSTING DEPARTMENT Complete & Extensive. GOLF COURSE. Birmingham-Hotels “CoMen” & “Hen and Chickens.” 5 minutes from Ry. Stations. Coffee, Commercial, & Smoke Rooms. Terms Moderate. Tel. 251 & 2866. Tels. : WCobden,” “ Chickens.” Bridlington, Yorks— Imperial Private Hotel. First-class. En Pension. Facing Sea. Magnificent Views of Flamborough Head. South Aspect. Table d’Hote 6.30 (separate tables). Nat. Tel. No. 0156. Mrs. SAM MORTIMER, Proprietress. Bournemouth-Empress Hotel ■ Overlooking a mile of the Public Gardens. Tariff most moderate. Electric Light. Billiard Room. Table d’Hote, separate tables. One minute from Winter Garden, Theatre, and G.P.O. Three minutes from Pier; five from Golf Links. S.W. Aspect. Telephone 0984. Saturday till Monday, 17/- Illustrated Tariff on application. No charge for Bath, Lights, or Attendance. Buxton, Derbyshire-Balmoral Private Hotel. - Establishment. The finest position in Buxton. Replete with every comfort. Four minutes’ walk from Baths, Garden, Churches, Stations, &c. Table d’Hote, 6.45 p.m. Nat. Tel. 0481. Telegrams — “ Balmoral, Buxton.” Mrs. LEE, Proprietress. Buxton -Pavilion Private Hotel. ~ Baths, Garden f\and New Pump Room. Every Comfort. Moderate Terms. Nat. Tel. 0496. Mr. & Mrs. E. K, SHAW, Proprietors. Buxton 7 LIMEHURST-BUXTON. HOTEL PENSION. (Associated with the Hotel Holgenaes, Romsdal, Norway). H TTENTION is drawn to the fact that the whole of the Staff Especially chosen from Norway, and a special feature is made of the cooking and attendance. Limehurst is beautifully situated, with a south aspect, and with extensive views of Axe Edge and surrounding hills, and has a large garden. It is within a few minutes’ walk of Station, Pavilion, Gardens, Pump Room, and Baths. There are entrances from both Manchester Road and Park Road. The Sanitation is perfect. Tourists’ and cheap week-end tickets to Buxton are issued throughout the year from all the principal Stations on the Midland and L. & N.W. systems. Electric Light. Dining Rooms. Drawing Rooms. Morning Room. Smoke Room. Conservatory. Excellent Cuisine. Express Train Service between Buxton and London (St. Pancras and Euston). Terms from 2| Guineas. Special Terms 'or Golfers and Winter Visitors. BUXTON. GEORGE HOTEL. P UBLIC Dining and Drawing Rooms; Reading and Smoking Rooms ; Private Sitting Rooms, and Rooms en suite. Table d Hote at 7.0 p.m. The Hotel is detached, plea>antly situated with southern aspect, is close to Baths, Gardens, Chuich, and Railway Stations, and has special suites of Rooms without staircases for Invalids. Corridors Heated throughout the Winter. R'ectric light in every room. Terms Moderate. Nat. Telephone No. 0448. w. F. MILL, Proprietor. BUXTON, DERBYSHIRE. Inab-class Hoarding establishment* Beautifully situated. Near Pavilion, Gardens, Baths, and Golf Links. m Highly Recommended. Excellent Cuisine. • Table d’Hote, 6,30 p m. Tariff on application. MISS GRETTON. Proprietress. 8 Buxton BUXTON, DERBYSHIRE. HIGHEST TOWN IN ENGLAND. On the Mountain Limestone, 1,000 feet above sea level. Centre of the picturesque Peak District. Pure Air. Charming Scenery. HOT MINERALWATER BATHS For GOUT , RHEUMATISM, SCIATICA, LUMBAGO, dc., Natural Temperature 82 ° 'Fahrenheit, Are now the Property of the Council. ♦ FINEST PUBLIC GARDENS AT ANY HEALTH RESORT IN EUROPE, WITH PAVILION OPERA HOUSE, CONCERT HALL, TENNIS, BOWLS, &c., &c. GOLF LINKS (18 HOLES). For ILLUSTRATED GUIDES, with Tariffs of the leading Hotels, Hydropathics, Boarding and Lodging Houses, send postage (ijd.) to CHIEF CLERK, Town Hall, Buxton, Derbyshire. Biixton 9 CRESCENT HOTEL BUXTON, Derbyshire. " - — ^ - t*" — - ■ ■ — n t . - ! I ijjr HIS First-class Hotel occupies the best situation, being ^ near the Railway Station, and connected by Covered Colonnade with the Baths, Wells, Pavilion, Gardens, Opera House, &c. Buxton Golf Links one mile from the Hotel. The new Pump Room is immediately opposite the Hotel. Table d’Hote at 7 p.m. in the Splendid Dining Room (one of the finest in the Kingdom). PUBLIC DINING, DRAWING , BILLIARD, SMOKING, AND READING ROOMS. ELECTRIC LIGHT IN ALL ROOMS. EXCELLENT CUISINE. CHOICE WINES AND CIGARS. C. J. SMILTER, Proprietor. Telegraphic Address : — “Crescent Hotel, Buxton.” National Telephone, No. 20 TERMS MODERATE & INCLUSIVE. 10 Buxton BUXTON HYDROPATHIC BUXTON, DERBYSHIRE. H. LOMAS - - - Managing Director. Telegraphic Address — “Comfortable, Buxton." Nat. Telephone No. 5 , 260 HOO TVX S. Electric Light. Elevators. Baths of every Description. CINDERELLA DANCE EACH SATURDAY THROUGHOUT THE YEAR. BUXTON, DERBYSHIRE. BEAUTIFULLY SITUATED IN ITS OWN GROUNDS. Five minutes’ walk from Railway Station, Baths, and Public Gardens. Equally suitable for a Winter as well as a Summer Resort. Magnificent Views. Electric Light Throughout. Sanitary arrangements and Ventilation perfect. Home Comforts. Public Dining, Drawing, Billiard and Smoking Room. Table d’Hote V . 7 p.m. Terms Moderate. Apply to Manageress. Nat. Telephone No. 2. •^•BUXTOUT.-K- SOUTHGATE PRIVATE HOTEL AND Eoarding Establishment HARDWICK MOUNT. Convenient and Pleasant Situation. Good Dining, Drawing, Smoking, and Recreation Rooms. Bil- 1 ards. Lock-up for Bi- cycles. Four-horse Char- a-banc starts from house every day for various places of interest. Dark Room for Photography. MRS. OWEN, PROPRIETRESS. BUXTON, DERBYSHIRE. First-Class Boarding Establishment. Situated in the best part of Buxton, overlooking Golf Links, near the Pavilion Gardens, com- manding the finest views in the neigh- bourhood. Within easy distance of the Pump Room and Baths, -f *t9 ^5 Contains fine Entrance Hall, Dining, Drawing, Billiard, Smoke, and Read- ing Rooms. Handsomely Furnished. Table d’Hote separate tables. Excellent Cuisine. Heated throughout the Winter months. Moderate Terms. Mr. & Mrs. HAMBLY, Proprietors & Managers. Telegrams, “ Towers , College Road, Buxton Nat. Tel. 117. Buxton -Channel Islands— Coventry— Clevedon n BUXTON, DERBYSHIRE. Pension Pendennis ENLARGED and NEWLY BEAUTIFIED. F INEST Situation, near Baths. Excellent Table, Large Library, Perfect Sanitation, Heated through- out during Winter. Table d’Hote 6.30 p.m. Moderate Terms. Mrs. MARTLAND NEWTON. National Telephone 109. BUXTON, DERBYSHIRE HIGH-CLASS, situated in Hardwick Square, close to Baths, Pump Room, and Gardens. Replete with every comfort. Table d’Hote, 6. 3° P*m. Excellent Cuisine. Moderate Terms. Nat. Tel. 45. Miss PALMER, Proprietress. RllYtnn Ffliplflirfh Marlborough Road. — Superior Private Apartments, DUAlUil raillClgli, with or without Board. Every Comfort. Ground' floor Bedrooms. Bathroom. Situated nearBaths, Gardens, Stations, &c. Sunny aspect. Special Winter Terms. Mrs. A. F. VICKERS. Buxton-Searson’s Private Hotels ■ 1 HK QUEEN^S° N ’ Facing South. Detached and Comfortable. Excellent Cuisine. Moderate Terms. Sark Channel Unfp] Dp] A\y — The only Hotel on the Island with j Islands HUICI a Sea View. First-class accom- modation. Good Fishing and Bathing. Croquet. Tennis. Terms moderate. Coventry-King’s Head Hotel • Headquarters of Automobile Club. Garage for 30 Cars. Excellent Cuisine. Electric Light. Tels. : “ King’s Head, Coventry.” M. MEINHARDT, Mng. Director CILiBVBOO WALTON PARK HOTEL ^THE Most Comfortably-furnished Hotel in the West of England, beauti- V*' fully situated on Walton Cliffs, directly facing the sea. The exten- sions are now completed, redecorated and refurnished. Large Lounge and Recreation Room. Perfect Sanitation. Seven Acres of pleasure Grounds, containing 4 Tennis Courts and 2 Croquet Lawns. Excellent Cuisine and Wines. Special Motor Garage, with Inspection Pits. Golf. Tels.: “Seaside, Clevedon.” Nat. Tel. 0,150 Clevedon. For Tariff and Brochure apply to STANLEY D. GORDON, Manager 12 Cambridge — Colvvyn Bay C A. M BRI3>Gr E. THE BULL HOTEL. principal ffamilg Ibotel. Patronised by the Royal Family, Nobility, and Gentry. SITUATED CLOSE TO THE PRINCIPAL COLLEGES . Recently Redecorated and Refurnished Throughout. Apply MANAGER. Also the “ Queen's Hotel” Penzance , the “ York House Hotel ” Bath, &c. EDMUND A. SAUNDERS. Proprietor. HOT AND COLD SEA-WATER BATHS THE HOTEL. BILLIARD & SMOKE ROOMS. MOTOR GARAGE WITH PIT. PRIVATE SUITES IN NEW WING. PORTERS IN SCARLET LIVERY ATTEND ALL TRAINS. Wintev Residence . Mrs. LELY, MANAGER* Cromer — Cruden Bay - Dovedale i3 CRO ME JES R. BELMONT PRIVATE HOTEL S ITUATED on West Cliff, with Sea View from every room. Accommodation for 60 Visitors. Private Sitting Rooms. Drawing, Dining, and Smoking Rooms. Table d’llote at 7 o’clock, at separate tables. Tariff from Two Guineas. J. W. JEFFERSON, Proprietor. ALEXANDRA MANSI ITUATED close to Beach, with good Sea Views. Accommodation for 60 Visitors. Sumptuously furnished. Large Dining Hall, Lounge, Drawing, Smoke, and Read- ing Rooms. Moderate Tariff. MRS. JEFFERSON, Proprietress. Cromer- Cliftonville Private it: finest position in Cromer. Overlooking Sea and Favourite C.iff Promenade. Accommodation for ioo Visitors. Table d’Hote at separate tables. Moderate Tariff. Electric Light throughout. Telegrams : “Cliftonville, Cromer. ’ Telephone No. 30a. W. CHURCHYARD, Proprietor. frAmor Qhhllfw Hauqa Boarding Establishment. — West Cliff. UUmtJl-OIiCllOJf IlUUbC Facing Sea. Every Home Comfort. Liberal Table. Near Golf Links and Midland & G.E.R. Stations. Moderate Terms. Mrs. CLARKE, Proprietress. C 5RUBEM A. Popular Seaside and Golfing Resort, 30 Miles from Aberdeen, on the GREAT NORTH OF SCOTLAND RAILWAY. Splendid Beach- two miles long. Sea Bathing. Boating. Fishing. Healthy and Invigorating Climate. The Golf Course Of 18 holes is pronounced by distinguished Players to be one of the best in the Kingdom. Ladies’ Course of 9 Holes. CRUDEN BAY HOTEL OWNED BY THE GREAT NORTH OF SCOTLAND RAILWAY COMPANY, ® C( ^I J ^ 1ES ? Charmi "g Site, overlooking the Bay of Cruden. Every Jr . Mo ^ ern Accommodation. Electric Light. Lift. Bowling Greens, lenms Courts. Croquet Lawns. Electric Tramway between Station and Hotel. Address enquiries to the Manager, Cruden Bay Hotel, Port Erroll, N B See Palace Hotel Advertisement , Page ?. Dovedale, Derbyshire-Peveril of the Peak Family Hotel. Station . 1 horpe Cloud, L. & N.W. Own grounds, 12 acres. Mag- nificent scenery. Four miles Trout & Grayling Fishing. Home * arm - H. BRIDDON, Proprietor. 14 Dovercourt - Dublin — Eastbourne Dovercourt, Essex-Cliff Hotel. ~ F *tv£ e *comrSrV° s cii“ " P Week-end Tickets are issued by G. E. R. Co. H, H. PACKER, Proprietor. HOTEL METROPOLE Sackville Street, DUBLIN. F IRST-CLASS. Splendid Situation. Electric Light all through. American Elevators. Service unsurpassed. Perfect Sanitation and Ventilation. Most Modern and Comfortable. Restaurant Department attached. Terms Moderate. G . J. CAPSEY. Manager. Telegrams-" METROPOLE. DUBLIN." DUBLIN Moderate Charges. First Class. HOTEIi. Eastbourne-Burleigh House En Pension, -°w” d - Sq - are> Replete with every comfort. Liberal Table. Moderate and Inclusive Terms. Grand Parade. — Excellent Cuisine. Mrs. PIPER. Eastbourne-Carlton Hotel, First-class Temperance. Central for business or pleasure. Beds from 2/-. Breakfast 1/9. Dinners 2/-. Saturday till Monday, 12/6. Boarding Terms 35/- to 42/- week. Highly recommended. — W. THOMAS. Eflcthnurno— AndloQ Popular Boarding Establishment.— Royal ridblUUUiilC liilglCb Parade. Facing Sea. Every Comfort, com- . bined with Moderate Charges. J. H. TAYLOR, Proprietor. EASTBOURNE. “M OSTYN” 3BoarMng lEstabltsbment, GRAND l'ARADE. jpACING the Sea, the aspect JJ being South-West. The Devonshire Park and Baths are within two minutes’ walk, the Pier, Golf, and Cricket Grounds within 10 minutes. Visitors seeking a permanent or temporary home will fmd every comfort, a liberal table, and good management. Good Bath and Smoking Rooms. The Sanitary Arrangements are perfect, having the Certificate granted by the Medical Officer of Health for the Borough. Mr. & Mrs. CAREW PACKER, Nat. Tel. 183. Proprietors. Edinburgh — Edwinstowe i5 ~ni- EDINBURGH, -i^- THE COCKBURN HOTEL, Adjoining Waverley Station • Conducted on Temperance Principles. Passenger Elevator. Foreign Languages Spoken. Electric Light. JOHN MACPHERSON, Proprietor. DARLING’S RECENT TEMPERANCE HOTEL 20, WATERLOO PLACE, EDINBURGH, Under the personal management of Miss Darling. Telegraphic Address— Telephone No. 02928 Central. “ Darling’s Hotel, Edinburgh.’’ Ok Reallp Best ?12a$aztuc for cocrpone is ^Windsor. PRICE SIXPENCE. Edwinstowe-Dukeries Hotel • in Edwinstowe. Five minutes’ walk from Old Sherwood, and the most delightful Forest Scenery in the Kingdom. Keys and passes for the ducal private parks and drives. Iv. SMITH, Manager. i6 English Lakes Windermere hydro., BOWNESS-ON-WINDERMERE. FIVE MINUTES FROM BOWNESS PIER. ’BUS FROM WINDERMERE STATION, L. & N.W.R. For Prospectus, apply The Manager. THE ENGLISH LAKES. AMBLESIDE THE PRINCIPAL CENTRE. REFERENCE to any map of the Lake District will clearly show that Ambleside is situated in the immediate centre. Communication is made by Water and by Coach with all parts of the district, combining to favour Ambleside as an unrivalled sojourning place. The chief hotels are : THE SALUTATION, THE QUEEN’S, THE WINDERMERE WATERHEAD, all of which are commodious and high-class, and offer every homely comfort to visitors. Private Coaches and Carriages of every description may also be obtained. TAYLOR’S FOUR-IN-HAND STAGE COACHES run daily from the Hotels and the Steamer Pier for Keswick, Coniston, Ullswater, and the Langdale. For time tables apply at the aforenamed hotels, Taylor’s Coach Office, Ambleside, or various offices en route. THOMAS TAYLOR, Proprietor. English Lakes 1 7 PATTERDALE, PENRITH. ULLS WATER HOTEL N LARGED and Re-modelled. One of the largest and best situated Hotels in the district, bordering on Ullswater, which is unquestion- ably the Lake which Combines the greatest variety of scenery. Helvellyn and Airey Force are within a short distance. Steamer arrives and departs from the Hotel Grounds. Coaching and Boating, etc. Electric Light. THOMAS ' BOWNASS, Proprietor. Telegraphic Address : — “ Ullswater Hotel , Glenridding.” KESWICK HOTEL, KES WICK. C onnected with the Railway Station by a Corridor. Stands in its own grounds. Has views of un- surpassed loveliness. Lighted by Electricity. Nat. Tel. No. 020, and Telegraph on the premises. Free Golf Course to Keswick Hotel Visitors. J. B. WIVELL, Lessee. Read H. RIDER HAGGARD’S GREAT NOVEL tC AYESHA” The Return of “SHE.” The most enthralling romance ever written. 32 Magnificent Illustrations by Maurice Greijfenhagen . Crown 8vo, Cloth Gilt, 6s. OF ^1.1. FOOKSEIjiLEKS. London: WARD, LOCK & CO., LIMITED. Guide Series, 1905-6.] 5 1 8 Exeter — F almouth — Felixstowe — H arrogate EXETER. ROYAL CLARENCE HOTEL. FACING GRAND OLD CATHEDRAL. § O 8.3 Nat. Telephone No. 244. J. HEADON STANBURY, Proprietor. Exeter The Bude Hotel - -Family and Commercial. Close to the Cathedral. Every Comfort. Excellent Cuisine. Electric Light throughout. Bathrooms. Billiards. Stab- ling. Nat. Tel. 296. G. F. SERCOMBE, Proprietor. FALMOUTH, As a Tourist centre, owns many attractions, and as a Winter Resort is frequently recommended by the leading Medical Practitioners. THE GREEN BANK HOTEL 3 S beautifully situated, with charming Views of the Harbour, Pendennis and St. Mawes Castles, and is replete with every homely accom- modation for Families and Gentlemen. Ladies’ Drawing Room. Billiard Room. Posting in all its Branches. High-class Hotel with Moderate Tariff. Visitors taken en pension during the Winter Months. Hotel Omnibus meets all Trains and Steamers. M. MITCHELL, Proprietress. Felixsto we-Ordnance Hotel. ~ due South, standing in own grounds, commanding extensive views. Balcony overlooking Sea & Private Lawns. Electric Light. Lock-up houses for Motors and Cycles. Nat. Tel. 083, Felixstowe. Telegrams: “Ordnance, Felixstowe.” Terms on application. C. W. PACKE, Proprietor. Felixstowe -Melrose Private Hotel comfort. Best position on front for Promenade & Pier, faces nearly due South. Excellent Cuisine. Mod. Terms. R. G. COPL1NG. flolivotnwn Pllldvmr Family Hotel.— Situated on Sea Front. Nearest rCllAolUiYC rillUj Cl Hotel to Golf Links. Every Comfort. Excellent Cuisine. Moderate Terms. Motor & Cycle Accommodation. Tels. : “ Fludyer, Felixstowe.” Nat. Tel. 078. C. F. PRATT, Proprietor. . Harrogate The Spa Private Hotelrfi^^K 50 Bedrooms. Electric Light throughout. Lift to all floors. Inclu- sive terms fr. gs. Tel. 0409. Mrs. ANDERSON, Proprietress. Harrogate — Hunstanton — Ilfracombe *9 Uarrndatfl -Ralpnmhn Boarding House, 2, York Place. Pleasantly IKUlUgdie DdlbUIUUC situated, facing the Stray: South aspect. Mrs. McLANACHAN, Proprietress. Uarrnrfato Tha birltnn Ripon Road En Pension.— Standing in Ildl I UgdlO lliO 1 /lIllUil own grounds. Near Baths, Spa, & Pump Rooms. Lounge. Electric Light throughout. Tennis & Croquet Lawns. Mod. Terms. Table d’Hote 7 p.m. Telegrams: “ Dirlton.” Mrs. RYMER. Harrogate The Brinkburn & Octagon Overlooking Valley Gar- dens, 3 minutes from Baths & Pump Room. Terms fr. 42/- per week. Mrs. BUCKLEY & Miss HAMILTON, Proprietresses. Uarradath RfilvaHflra Boarding Estab. — Beautifully situated, over- JQdlivgdlu DCliCuCiC looking the Stray. One minute from various Wells, Baths, Valley Gardens, and Kursaal. Newly decorated throughout. Terms from 30/- per week. Apply Manageress. HARROGATE, YORKS. First-class Private Hotel and Boarding Establishment. An Ideal Position. ^^0* ^ Facing the South Aspect. ^-"^Stray. Within three minutes’ walk of Station, Baths, Pump Room, Concert Room, and Winter Gardens. Electric Light, and replete with every comfort. Table d’Hote 7 p.m. Special Terms for Winter Months. Nat. Tel. No. 200 . 7'^ PRICE’S CAPSTONE BOARDINC ESTABLISHMENT AND RESTAURANT, ST. JAMES’S STREET. |1\LEASANTLY situated, two minutes’ walk from the Pier, Capstone Parade, and overlooking the Victoria Promenade. Spacious Drawing, Dining, and Smoking Rooms. Excellent accommodation for Tourists. Single Beds from 1/6 per night ; Double Beds from 2/- per night ; Breakfast and Dinner from 1/2 ; Teas from 6d. Boarding Terms from 5/- p®r day, according to Season. Splendid Cuisine. A. R. PRICE, Proprietor. Ilfracombe — Isle of Wight 2T Ilfracombe -THE OSBORNE one minute of the Sea. Exctlle.it Cuisine. Moderate Inclusive Tariff Free. Thirty Bedrooms. Proprietor. Ilfracombe-The Wildersmouth Capstone Parade, and Beach. Sea View from all windows. guineas per week. Inclusive Tariff from to 2 % F. COLLINS, Proprietor. IE I_i IE 71 _bC O 0 IL/L IB IB _ THE GRANVILLE FIRST-CLASS BOARDING ESTABLISHMENT 1,800 REFERENCES IN VISITORS 9 BOOKS. AGNIFICENT Sea and Land views. Forty-four Bedrooms. Baths, Balconies. Electric Light throughout. Billiards. Comfort, sociability, good cooking. Bijou Guide gratis. W. R. FOSTER, Proprietor. ILFRACOMBE, IMPERIAL HOTEL. UNIQUE SITUATION, FACING SEA AND CAPSTONE. ELECTRIC LIGHT, PASSENGER LIFT . ^"HIS well-known and first-class Private Hotel, replete with comfort and luxury, ^ contains 100 Apartments, elegant Lounge, Drawing, Billiard, and Ball Rooms. Balconies. Golf. En pension, from 42/- to 3! guineas, according to room and season. For Illustrated Tariff apply to Leonard Parsons, Manager. CHAS. DREW (Oswestry), PROPRIETOR. Telegrams— “ Imperial Hotel, Ilfracombe.’' National Telephone, No. 22 . THE QUEEN’S HOTEL (Family, Commercial, & Coaching). Opposite General Post Office. Under same Proprietor and Management. Apply for Illustrated Tariff. En pension, from 42/-. Motor Garage. Sandown, l.W.-Montpelier lent Cuisine. Inclusive terms from 35/- per week. Under personal supervision of The Misses JONES, Proprietresses. Sandown, I.W.-The Balconies First-clasf! Facing Sea. South aspect. Replete with every comfort. Moderate Terms . Mrs. C. WELSH, Proprietress. Qhanlrlin IW riiff T-Tahqa Private Hotel& Boarding House. DliailAim, I. II . vllil nuiloo First-class. Situated in its own grounds. Facing Sea. Every Comfort. Excellent Cuisine. FJectric Light. Moderate Terms. Mr. & Mrs. E. D. JEFFORD, Proprietors. Shanklin, I.W.-Clifton House grounds. Good Sea View. Replete with every comfort. Excellent Cuisine. Moderate Terms. S. J. CLARK, Proprietor. Shanklin, I.W -Duecrolt Boarding House Sea & Station. South aspect. Every Home Comfort. Libera! Table. Moderate Terms. Well recommended. Misses CR OSS. Yentnor, I.W.-Solent Hotel House. — Facing .Sea. Overlooking Pier. South aspect. Boarding Terms from 30/- to £2 2s. pe» week. Miss M. M. MEIKLEHAM, Proprietress. 22 Instow — Isle of Man — Ipswich Instow, 3\T orth Devon. Marine Hotel UN UK li NEW MANAGEMENT . /^HARMING Situation, overlooking Rivers Torridge and Taw and Bay. V*' Private Lawn with Sea Wall. Croquet and Bowls. Near Railway Station, Post and Telegraph Office. Central for Places of Interest in North Devon. The Rivers afford pleasant Boating and good Fishing. Own Dairy and Poultry kept. Charges Moderate. Posting in all its Branches. Special Terms during Winter Months. Tickets for Salmon and Trout Fishing. Nat. Tel. 0184. J. B. COUNEBEAR, Proprietor. ISLE OF MAN. Dodsworth’s Boarding House & Private Hotel QUEEN’S PROMENADE, DOUGLAS. Southern Aspect. Select end of Bay, facing Sea. LATE DINNERS. TERMS ON APPLICATION. IPS W I o H. GREAT WHITE HORSE HOTEL ANE of the oldest, most comfortable, and best known Hotels in the World. Established prior to 1450. Celebrated by the late Charles Dickens in Pickwick Papers. Fire mains on every floor. Headquarters of the Automobile Club of Great Britain and Ireland, Eastern Counties Automobile Club, Kennel Club, Field Trials, and Suffolk County Kennel Association. Table d’Hote 7 p.m. ’Bus meets all trains. Night Porter. Perfect Sanitation. JOHN HARRISON, Proprietor. Telephone 38. Telegrams-** PICKWICK, IPSWICH. Kerry Fjords 23 COUNTY KERRY. SOUTHERN HOTELS Under the Management of the Great Southern & Western Railway, Ireland. HEALTH PLEASURE RESORTS. Shooting, Fishing, Golf, Boating, Bathing , etc. Southern Hotel, Parknasilla. Situated on Grand Atlantic Coast Route. This Hotel is a comparatively recently built one. It stands on an inlet of the sea, 15 miles by road from Kenmare Rail- way Station. Its grounds of over 200 acres are well wooded and sheltered. It affords excellent Sea Bathing, Fishing, and Boating, and is an ideal holiday resort. Bishop’s House Hotel, Parknasilla (unlicensed). Open June to October. Sheltered position. Tariff 7/6 per day. Southern Hotel, Waterville. On the shore of Lough Currane, and within half a mile of the sea. Salmon and Trout Fishing commences here on 1st February. There is an excellent 9-hole Golf Links within 1 J miles. Hotel Cars meet guests, if advised, at Cahirciveen Railway Station. Southern Hotel, Caragh Lake. Within half a mile of G. S. & W. Railway Station ; beauti- fully situated on the shore of Caragh Lake, and surrounded by unrivalled scenery. The Company has secured extensive and exclusive Fishing and Shooting rights, and good Links, for the use of its guests. Trout Hatchery in grounds. Southern Hotel, Kenmare. This House has been quite recently built, and will be found replete with every modern comfort and convenience, in- cluding Electric Light. It is just on the outskirts of the town, and commands a grand view of the Kenmare Sound and surrounding country. Coaches run daily during the Tourist Season from this Hotel to Parknasilla, Waterville, Cahirciveen, and also to Glengarriff and Killarney. There are excellent Golf Links adjoining the Hotel Grounds. Coupons issued to any of above Hotels at Dublin (Kingsbridge), Cork, and Waterford Stations. Full particulars of any of the above Hotels may be obtained on application to the Manager, Southern Hotel, Kenmare, Co. Kerry. 24 Inverness — J ersey — Llandudno Inverness— Waverley Hotel." and Boats. Fishing. Golf. Most central and comfortable. Terms Moderate. Telephone 0179. D. DAVIDSON, Proprietor. ROYAL HOTEL. {BREWS.) Recherche Cuisine. Terms Moderate. Entirely Renovated, and under the Management of Mrs. E. BREE. JERSEY. ROYAL YACHT HOTEL oldest established first-class Hotel in the Islands. Magnificent ^ position, facing Sea and Harbours. Terms moderate and inclusive. For full particulars apply to the Manager — H. LOGAN. Telegraphic Address— “ YACHT, JERSEY.” Llandudno, N. Wales-Yincent's Private Hotel • Marine Parade. Extensive Tennis Court Accommodation. Motor Garage. Illustrated Tariff of P roprietor— J. H. VINCENT. ALL O ADS LLANDUDNO (The Queen of Welsh Watering Places). Send Postage (1£d) to “Secretary of Dept. 12,” Town Improvement Association, Llandudno, for a lovely Illustrated Guide and an Official List of Hotels, Boarding Houses, and Private Apartments. Llandudno -The Craig-y-don On Sea Front. Accommodation for 160 guests. Electric Light. Recreation Room. Terms Moderate. Open during Winter. Misses MIDDLETON £ WOOD. Llandudno, N. Wales-Sherwood SS Ms vie*s of Bay and both O/m^s. Every Horn'" Comfort. Liberal Table. Moderate Terms. Mus. E. L. PARRA, Proprietress Llandudno 25 Llandudno “Englelield” B ^. ng c,o^ b s 1 jfS Q d™2 ing Locality. Excellent Cuisine. ’Bus passes the door, lerms, inclusive, 36 /“ per week. Proprietress. Llandudno-“Trevone” Every Comfort. Cuisine Excellent. A splendid Summer or Winter Residence. Tariff" on application. Mi ss E. M. CUMBERLAND. Llandudno, N. Wales-Imperial Lift. Lounges. per week. 120 Bedrooms. En Pension from 3^ guineas S. CHANTREY, Manager. Llandudno-Lockyer's Private Hotel • Facing Sea. Old-estab- lished. High-class. Smoking Lounge added. Moderate Tariff". Nat. Tel. 053. Mr. & Mrs. GEORGE STONES, Proprietors. Llandudno, North Wales— u ORMESCLIFFE,” First-class Duiuofn Unfnl and Winter Residence (Promenade). lllVdlC IIUICI Facing Sea. Magnificent Views of Bay and both Ormes. Motor Garage. Excellent Cuisine. . Dark Room for Photographers. Billiards. Musical Society. Private Rooms ensuite. Moderate Terms. Mrs. M. SMITH, Proprietress. Llandudno-Moon’s Private Hotel • Station and Promenade. Private Sitting Rooms. Billiards. Home Comforts. Excellent Cuisine. Moderate Terms W. WINCH, Proprietor. Llandudno-Fislier r s Private Hotel • minute from Sea and Station. Dark Room for Photography. Excellent Cuisine. Terms Moderate. Telegrams — “Fisher’s Hotel, Llandudno.” Llandudno- ‘The White House Centre of Grand Promenade. Facing Sea. One minute from Pier ana Concerts. Electric Light. Redecorated. Perfect Sanitation, lelegrams — “White House.” Nat. Tel. 100. W. A. THOMAS, Proprietor. TlanHiiHnn Urirt v hnn Boarding Establishment. — On Pro- LldilUllUilU ~DI ig-J “L/Uli menade. Facing Sea; centre of Bay; near Station, Golf Links, & Pier. Winter Residence. Moderate Terms. Nat. Tel. 24 x 1. MORRIS BARNETT, Proprietor. Llandudno-Marine HotelrlSc SSi p S e ^i floors. Heated throughout apply Proprietor. during Winter Months. Tariff, National Telephone No. 19. Llandudno WILEY & SON, Glass and China laauuuuuu. Merehants . Large stoek of Goss Porcelain. Arms of Wales and Llandudno. Llandudno-Bryn-y-Mor Pier& Pavilion. Overlooking Bay, entrance South Aspect. Also Table d’Hote, 6.30 to Pier, & surrounding Mountain Scenery. Private Apartments in Winter Months. (separate tables). For Tariff, apply Mr. & Mrs. C. M. BROWN. Llandudno, N. Wales-" Elsinore ’ First-class Boarding Residence. — Centre of Grand Parade. Facing Sea. Near Pavilion. For Tariff apply to the Proprietresses, Mrs. R. BAXTER & Misses ELLIS. Llandudno-" The Central.” fv am ± folt a ^ e , Convenient to the Station, Post Office, and Sea. Good Table £iid Attendance. Moderate, F. HART, Proprietor, 26 Llandrindod Wells — Llanfairfechan — London LLANDRINDOD WELLS, S. WALES. Beautifully situated in its own grounds South aspect. Close to Wells and Baths and Golf Links. of fishing, with every comfort. Cuisine. Electric Light. ♦ 15 miles Replete Excellent Moderate Terms. Miss SHEEN, Proprietress. Llandrindod Wells - 1 Montpellier’ Privat ® Ho r® 1 - " ° n r open Common. P.O. Tel. 9. Tels., -Montpellier. 1 Miss TYSOE SMITH. Llanfairfechan, N. Wales- Gwylanedd, bedrooms, h. & c. bath. Beautifully situated, commanding view of Menai Straits, sea, & mountain. Apply Mrs. J. R. GRIFFITHS. Tlandnllon WQHArlflV Hotel, Family & Commercial. Estab. 1878. LldilgUlUJll— ndVtJIltJ) Home Comforts. Moderate Terms.-C.T.C. Motor Car & Cycle accommodation. Picnic Parties catered for. Butter, Milk, and Eggs Fresh Daily. Mrs. Wm. JONES. Llangammarch Wells -Cammarch Hotel, clo m s f x ‘° d !C"n g , G w °°h easily accessible moor, stocked with Grouse and Black Game. Six miles of Trout & Salmon Fishing, preserved for residential visitors. Apply to SYDNEY PRICE. VISITORS TO LONDON. TRANTER’S temperance HOTEL, 6 to 9, BRIDGEWATER SQUARE, BARBICAN, E.C. MOST CENTRAL FOR BUSINESS OR PLEASURE. Close to Aldersgate Street Metropolitan Railway Station, and near St. Paul’s Cathedral, General Post Office, and ALL Places of Interest. Home-like, Highly Respectable, and Select. BED and BREAKFAST from 3s. 6d., TEA from Is. to Is. 9d. All other charges equally moderate. No charge for attendance. Established 1859. Highly Recommended. Clean and quiet. Electric Light Throughout. WRITE FOR “Visitors’ Guide," showing “How to Spend a Week (or longer) in London,” with Tariff and Testimonials combined. Post free on application. Telegraphic Address— • HEALTHIEST, LONDON.” Night Porter. Telephone No. 959 Central. WEST CENTRAL HOTEL. H FIRST-CLASS Hotel for Ladies and Gentlemen Pronounced by the Press to be the Best Temperance Hotel in the United Kingdom. Equally convenient for City and West end. Accommodation for about 250. Excellent Coffee, Dining, and Smoking Rooms. Electric Light. Lift. Omnibuses pass the door. Highly commended by Sir James liaslett, M.P. ; J. S. Iligham, Esq., M.P. ; T. W. Russell, Esq, M.P. ; T. P. Whittaker, Esq., M.P. ; The Ven. Archdeacon of Durham ; Rev. Dr. Aked ; Rev. J. TI. Jowett, M.A. ; Mr. Alderman Clegg (Sheffield); and thousands of other guests in all parts of the Kingdom. Apartments, Service, and Table d’Hote Breakfast, 5 /- to 6/6 per day, Dinner, 3 /-. Full Tariff with Guide to London, on application to — FREDERIC SMITH & SONS, PROPRIETORS. SOUTHAMPTON ROW, LONDON. London — Lee Bay — Lizard 27 LOItTIDOILT. Kd WILD’S TEMPERANCE HOTELS (LIMITED), 30 to 40, LUDGATE HILL, E.C. Central for Charing Cross , Cannon Street , and Holborn Viaduct Stations for the Continent . ALSO AT 70 and 71, EUSTON SQUARE. Close to Easton , Midland , and Great Northern Stations . Home Comforts . Cleanliness and Quiet. — • — CENTRAL FOR BUSINESS OR PLEASURE. T nminn - Private & High-class Boarding Estab., 29 & 30, Queen liUUUUU Sq., Bloomsbury. — Centrally situated for City & West End. Near British Museum, ten minutes’ of King’s Cross, St. Pancras, & Euston Ry. Stations ; close to principal Omnibus Routes, Electric Ry. ; 1/- cab fare of chief Theatres. Newly decorated & furnished throughout, lighted by Electricity, Halls & public rooms heated by Hot Water System, sanitary arrangements completely renewed with most modern improvements. Mrs. E. IVENS BLUE, Proprietress. Salubrious Climate. Atlantic Breezes. A Perfect Health Resort in Sunny Devon. MANOR HOTEL. LEE BAY, NEAR ILFRACOMBE. HIS Picturesque Family Hotel stands in own grounds, Vi/ adjoining the Sea and commanding the whole Bay. Beautiful Valley, grand scenery with the Sea combined. It is the only licensed premises within 2J miles. Morthoe Station, 2J miles. Ilfracombe Steamers, 3 miles. Lizard, Cornwall- Housel Bay Hotel ■ Great Britain. This first- class Hotel commands magnificent views of the Coast, & is the omy Hotel situated close to the Sea and beautiful Housel Bay Beach. Golf, Bathing, Boating, Fishing, Billiards. Motor Car Service to and from Helston Station (G.W.R.). Tariff on application to the Manageress. 28 Lizard — Lowestoft The Lizard-Hill’s Lizard Point Hotel , c a °™ w c .wi? Molo y r &E vices. Open all the year. Table d’Hote Luncheons, 12.30 to 2.30. Table d’Hote, 7.30. Families en pension. Bdg. Terms, from £2 10 s, Lowestoft-Y ictoria Mansions Hotel , First-class. Facing Sea. Every comfort. Excellent Cuisine. Table d’Hote, separate tables. Motor and Cycle Accommodation. Telegrams: “Breezes.” Nat. Tel. 90. H, J. HERON, Resident Proprietor. Lowestoft-Norfolk House Trams. Every Comfort. Excellent Cuisine. Moderate Terms. Cycle Room. Mrs. C. B. BUXTON, Proprietress. I nwPQtrtft ^mith VlPW Private Bdg. Estab.-Weiiington Espla- LUYYgoIUU uUUlll 1 1 C u nade. First-class. Centrally situated. Good Sea View. Electric Light. Excellent Cuisine. Terms Moderate. Mrs. WESTGATE. Sen., & Daughter (Mr^. TENNER). T Awocf nff Qnnmr Lana Private Boarding House.— North Cliff. LUWCblUll— oulllljf 1/C11C Close to Park & Golf Links. Large Tennis Lawn. Good Sea Views. Excellent Cuisine. Moderate Terms. Telegrams : “ Healthy, Lowestoft.” Mrs. BIRDSEYE, T nwoetnft_ThA fluff a Boarding Establishment.— Centre of Pro- LUYYColUll 1 11 C t/lj 11 C menade. Magnificent Sea Views. Tennis Lawn. Dining, Drawing, Smoking, and Bath Rooms. Excellent Cuisine. Mod. Terms. Nat. Tel. 0192. Mr. & Mrs. T. W. WESTGATE. T AWPQtnft-PiPr Board i n £ Establishment.— Absolutely the finest & LU YYColUll liCl most central position, directly facing Sea, Pier, Yacht Basin, & Promenade. Special terms for early & late season on appli- cation. Excellent Cuisine. Mrs. SMALL, Proprietress. GRAND HOTEL T^ELIGHTFULLY situated in its own Magnificent Grounds, on the highest part of the South Cliff. Over 300 feet Sea Frontage. The only Hotel in Lowestoft without a public promenade on the Sea Front. Lawns for Tennis, Bowls, and Croquet. Stabling in the Grounds. In connection with the EO'L-AIj HOTEL, Facing the Pier and Yacht Basin. T Awncfnft Tho Qiiffnl V Family and Commercial Hotel.— Three LUWColUll X 11C ullllUliY. minutes from Pier and Esplanade; opposite G.E.R. Station. “ Most Comfortable Hotel in Eastern Counties.” Dining Room, with separate tables. Ladies’ Drawing Room. Large Billiard Room, 3 tables. Hot Luncheon, 1 to 2, 2/6. Table d’Hote (five courses), from 7 p.m., 3/6. Bedrooms from 3/6. Inclusive Terms, 10/6 per day. N.B.— Choice Selection of Wines. Mr. JOHN HARROLD, Proprietor. A BOOK FOR HOLIDAY READING. E. PHILLIPS OPPEN HEIM’S WORK. A m:AK£SR OF HISTORTT. Crown 8vo, 6s. Of all Booksellers. London: WARD, LOCK & CO., LIMITED, Lvnton 29 VALLEY 1)F "ROCKS HOTEL. r — — — “ — — — \ 'TT HE Largest and Principal Hotel in the district. Pephte with every comf rt. Lighted throughout with Electric Light. Standing high above all other hotels, 500 ftet above the sea. Large Ornamental Grounds. Luxurious Lounge. J. W. HOLMAN, Resident Owner. imperIalTotel AND BOARDING ESTABLISHMENT. BEAUTIFULLY SITUATED, FACING SEA. MODERATE TARIFF EN PENSION. ELECTRIC LIGHT. OMNIBUS MEETS TRAINS. J. W. HOLMAN, Proprietor. 36 Lynmouth LYNMOUTH. LYN VALLEY HOTEL {PLEASE NOTE NAME). a N Ideal Position — Facing Sea. Lofty and Airy Rooms. All Charges Strictly Moderate. Electric Light. Billiards. Under Personal Super- vision of CECIL N. BEVAN, Proprietor. Telegrams— “ Valley, Lynmouth.” LYNMOUTH, NORTH DEVON. LYNDALE HOTEL. OLD-ESTABLISHED. FIRST-CLASS. *fOR Families and Tourists, especially Favourable and Attractive. All JJ Coaches stop at the Hotel. Fishing. Good Stabling. Lock-up Coach- houses. Motor Accommodation. Charges Strictly Moderate. Telegrams— ' Lyndale. Lynmouth.’ Mrs. TOM BEVAN, Proprietress Lynmouth —Loch Awe — Liverpool 3i LYNMOUTH. THE TORS HOTEL. The most Up-to-Date Hotel in the West, with the Finest Position in England. W. & K. RIDDELL, Proprietors. Telegrams— “ Tors, Lynmouth.” LOCH AWE HOTEL. SITUATED AMONGST MAGNIFICENT SCENERY. VIEWS UNRIVALLED. The centre of numerous Daily Excursions to Places of Great Beauty and Historical interest. Salmon and Trout Fishing on Loch Awe, Free. Boating, Billiards, Lawn Tennis, Carriages, &c. Electric Light Throughout . PASSENGER LIFT FROM STATION TO HOTEL. D. FRASER, Proprietor. LIVERPOOL. COMPTON HOTEL. Telegrams : “ COMPTON.” Telephones : 58 and 8058. 32 Liverpool *4$=f LAURENCE'S Temperance, Commercial, and Family Tel. No. Royal 2,657. HOTEL C 20 & 21, CLAYTON SQUARE, LIVERPOOL. T HIS Hotel contains upwards of ioo Rooms, includ- ing COFFEE ROOM, PRIVATE SITTING ROOMS, BILLIARD, and SMOKE ROOM. The BEDROOMS are well ventilated and comfortably furnished. Headquarters, Cyclists’ Touring Club. The Midland and London and North Western Stations are within three minutes' walk , and the Lancashire and Yorkshire Station and Landing Stage within a convenient distance. CHARGES STRICTLY MODERATE. LIVERPOOL “THE SHAFTESBURY,” MOUNT PLEASANT. Td FIRST-CLASS Temperance, Family, and Commercial Hottl. A few minutes’ walk from Lime Street and Central Stations. Cars from Landing Stage and Castle St. (near Exchange Station) pass every few minutes. Electric Light throughout. 100 Rooms. Night Porter. Telegrams— “ Shaftesbury Hotel, Liverpool.” Telephone 2,244 Royal Margate — Matlock — Minehead — Mulhon 33 Margate— Queen’s & High Cliffe Hotels- p H 0 ^n^^iea“& Cliff. Spacious & handsomely-equipped Reception Rooms, Billiard Room, & Lounges. Special facilities to Golfers & Motorists. Cuisine unsurpassed. Moderate, inclusive, & illustrated tariff. Telegrams: "Ozone* Margat e.” Tel. 35 & 50. A. LEON ADUTT, Manager; Matlock Bath-New Bath Hotel ■ Hotel. Extensive Grounds, Ten* nis, Croquet, Fishing. Natural Tepid Swimming Bath. Stables* Coach & Motor Houses. Golf Links near. Apply Manager. Matlock Bridge-Belle Yu? Hydro • plete treatment for Hydropathy. Every Comfort. Excellent Cuisine. Heated in Winter. Mod.Terms- Mr. & Mrs. WARNER, Proprietors (late of Smedley’s Hydro.). Matlock Bank— Dalefield Hydro .- La ®m f “e di H^ nd F3 Hydropathic Baths. Terms 35/- to 42/- per week. National Telephone No. 0181. GEO. B. BARTON. St 3VE EDI.E Y’S Hydropathic Establishment, -^iMATLOCK,^ ♦ XSSTABIiISHED 1 8 5 3. ♦ Telegrams— “ SMEDLEY’S, MATLOCK BANK.” Telephone No. 17. ® NE of the largest and most complete in the Kingdom. An unrivalled suite of Hydropathic Baths, including an up-to-date installation of Electrical Appliances. Consulting and Resident Physicians. A large Staff (upwards of 50) of trained male and female Nurses, Masseurs and Bath Attendants. Milk from own Farm. American Elevator. Electric Light. Night Attendance. Large Winter Garden. Extensive Pleasure Grounds. Surrounded by lovely/Mountain Scenery, in the centre of picturesque Derbyshire. TERMS : — 8/6 to 12 /- per day inclusive according to Bedroom, no extra charge for Turkish and Ordinary Hydropathic Baths. Illustrated Prospectus on application to — H. CHALLAND, Manager. Minehead— Hotel Mfltropole.^ y g S^*^-R*S^ Electric Light. Croquet & Tennis Lawns. Large Stabling accom- modation. Telephone 11. Telegrams: " Metropole, Minehead.” Mullion, Cornwall-Mullion Cove of Mounts Bay. Situation unsurpassed. Golf Links within easy distance. Splendid Fishing, Boating, and Bathing. Billiards. Terms, apply Manager, Mullion Cove Hotel, Mullion R.S.O. Guide Series , 1905 - 6 .] 6 34 N ewquay — Oswestry WATERGATE BAY HOTEL, Near NEWQUAY, CORNWALL. 1IAERY Comfortable Family Hotel, unrivalled, sheltered position ^ facing the Atlantic. South aspect. Centrally situated for Mawgan, Bedruthan Steps, Carnanton Woods, Newquay, etc. Two miles of sandy beach. Bracing climate. Golf Links. Billiards. Stabling. Inclusive terms on application to the Manageress. HEADLAND HOTEL B EST Position on the Cornish jCoast. Invigora- ting air from the Atlantic. Most comfortable Hotel and Moderate Tariff. The Renowned Newquay Golf links adjoin the Hotel. Electric Light. Elec- tric Lifts. Two Billiard Tables. National Telephone 0196 Newquay. ftewAetru—Wvnnef au Hotel & Posting House.— Headquarters of VWllOolij II J illloldj the Automobile Club ot Great Britain & Ireland. Inspection Pit nr. Hotel. Lock-up Garages. Every accommodation for visitors. Fishing in neighbourhood. Tels. f “ Drew, Oswestry.” Large Crown 8vo. Bound in Cloth. 6s. THE PILLAR OF LIGHT. By LOUIS TRACY. London: Ward, Loch & Co., Limited . Oxford — Penzance 35 OXFOKD- MITRE HOTEL, In the Centre of the Finest Street in Europe. ' ” 4 - This well-known First-class Hotel for Ladies and Gentlemen contains Dining, Drawing, Reading, and Smoking Rooms, also Tea and Lounge Room. ♦ ELECTRIC LIGHT. NIGHT 1 PORTER. BILLIARHS. GOGH STABLING. Tariff on application to the Manageress, Telephone No. 35. Miss K. THORNTON. F»ENZAI>CCE« THE QUEEN S HOTEL Penzance has the most equable climate in England— Cool in Summer, Warm in Winter. T HE Queen’s Hotel is the largest and Principal Family Hotel facing the Sea and South. It has a frontage of 175 ft., and commands a full and uninterrupted view of St. Michael’s Mount and Mounts Bay. Magnificent Public Rooms, all facing the Sea, and Private Suites of Apartments Moderate Tariff, and inclusive Winter Terms. Apply Manager. Hotels in connection with the above — Bull Hotel, Cambridge, York House Hotel, Bath, &c. EDMUND A. SAUNDERS, Proprietor. 36 Penzance — Plymouth — Pwllheli — Scarborough DflT17anP0 Marino Rotroat —Situated on Esplanade. Grand Sea rDllodUtC ludlliic IlbLlcdL. Views. South Aspect. Five minutes from Ry. Station. Suites of Apartments, with or without Board. Baths. Highest References. Mrs. MANN, Proprietress. Plymouth-Hoe Mansions Penslon“ w ^^ pp Sood d chef?Xhs n Billiards. Terms from 2 guineas weekly. Mrs. HARDIMAN, Proprietress. Plymouth— Roslyn House Terrace, The Hoe. Pleasantly situated. Central for sea, town, & station. Cheerful house. Baths (h. & c.). Hiehest references given. Te rms, 30/- to 42/-. — Proprietress, Pwllheli, N. Wales-South Beach situated. Facing Sea. Every Home Comfort. Private sitting-rooms. Excellent Cuisine. Terms Mjderate. Telegrams: “Hodgetts, Pwllheli.” Rams^ate-Und]rwo;d , s B ^^^ m i H ^;^ , I Sept., 19/- ; Gentlemr , 22/-. August, L., 20 /- ; G., 23/-. Other months, L., 1 ./-; G., 21 /. Stamp. Mrs. UNDERWOOD. Rhyl, N. Walci-Thc Charity Situated on West Parade. Facing Sea. Every Home Comfort. Excellent Cuisine. Moderate Terms. Special Term- for Winter Visitors. Mrs. CHARLTON. Rhyl, N. Wales-Chilwell’s Private Hotel lishment. West Parade. Facing Sea. Home Comfort combined with Moderate Charges. Special Terms for Winter. Mrs. CHILWELL. Rhyl, N. Wales-Grosvenor Temperance Hotel, Commer- cial. Opposite Station. Schools, Choirs, and Parties specially catered for. Restaurant. A. W. JAMES, Proprietor. Ripoa, Yorks-Unicorn Hotel Xn^M^he^of Wales. Families visiting Studley, Fountains Abbey, and neigh- bourhood will find the comforts of home at this old-established first- class Hotel, the largest, best appointed, most liberally managed in the City. Picnic parties provided with Luncheons, Dinners, etc. Orders by post promptly attended to. Brakes & Carriages of every description. Telegrams — “ Unicorn, Ripon.” Telephone No. 4 . QalfhllTUl hv Qpa VipfftYUfl Temp. Hotel, Family & Commercial. OaiLUUiU-U.y-OCa nllUlia First-Class, Splendid situation, Sea View. Close to pier, gardens, baths, golf links. Excellent cuisine, moderate terms. Motor accommodation. Miss FLEUR Y, Proprietress. Saltburn-by-the-Sea— BRITANNIA HOUSEI^^SS*: Magnificent Views of Sea, Cliff, & Valley ; near Pier, Gardens, Baths, and Golf Links. Highly recommended. Special Winter Terms. SCAKBORGUGH. GAINSBOROUGH PRIVATE HOTEL, SOUTH CLIFF. S TANDS in its own Grounds. Close to Spa, Esplanade, and Golf Links. Indoor Badminton. Electric Light. Terms Moderate. Table d’Hote (Separate tables or a la carte). Special Terms for Winter and Permanent Residents. Telegrams— 11 CANTAB, SCARBOROUGH. ” Nat Telephone 0202. Scarborough - Salcombe — Sonthsea 37 Scarborough-Waverley HoW.~ F sSS£ Spa & Sands. Rtplete with every Comfort. Moderate Terms. Nat. Tel. 0246. L. WATERFALL, Proprietor. Scarborough, Yorks-Spa Boarding Establishment ■ class. Standing in its own grounds. Contains 70 Rooms, Lounge, Library, Smoking, Drawing, and Recreation Rooms. Magnificent Dining Hall. Electric Passenger Lift. Telephone and Electric Light in all Bedrooms. Baths (h. & c.). Excellent Cuisine. College Chef and Kitchen Staff from Oxford. Nat. Tel. 100. Telegrams — “ Ashley, Scarboro.” T. A. P. ASHLEY. Proprietor. QpflrhArmidh Airanna Boarding House.— South Cliff. Facing Sea. OUII UUI UUgll-ii Y CilUti Beautifully situated. Near Golf Links. Tennis and Croquet Lawn. Billiard Room. Every Comfort. Electric Light. Nat. Tel. 0244. Telegrams “Avenue, Scarboro.” Mrs. CLARKSON, Proprietress. Scarborough, Yorks-St. Mary’s House Boarding Estab- lishment. — Near the Sea. Overlooking North and South Bays Smoke Room. Home Comforts. Moderate Terms. Special Terms for Winter Months. Apply Proprietress. Scarborough, Yorks-Crescent Private Hotel and Ho B u r dins Established nearly 30 years. Splendid situation. Near Spa, &c. Views of Sea and Cliffs. Moderate Terms. Telegrams — “ Crescent Hotel, Scarboro.” H. D. SUMMERS, Proprietor. Qparhnrmidh— u RAlla V110 ” Temperance Hotel.— Opposite Main Ovdl UUlUUgll DC 11 C I UC Carriage Entrance to Railway Station. Billiard Room. Terms fr. £ 2 . 2s. per wk. Electric Trams pass door. Boots meets all trains. J. M. ATKINSON, Proprietor. QAQT»hnr>niidh Qt Alma Boarding House, South Cliff.— 3 minutes’ OldlUUlUUgll 01 . Hlllla from Esplanade & Spas. Near New Golf Links. Billiard & Smoke Rooms. Illustrated Tariff on application. Telegrams: “ St. Alma.” Tel. 0236. Mrs. ARMSTRONG. Scarborough Blanchard’s Private Hotel. _ ci?ff an o d v^iooking Spa & Bay. Close to Golf Link. Apply Mrs. N. HICKSON. Telegrams — “ Blanchard’s Hotel, Scarboro .” Nat. Tel. 0245. Scarborough-Red Lea I Granville B °^^ U uae t d bs F U u e se a Views. Every Comfort. Open all the year. Table d’ Ho te, 6.30, Separate Tables. Terms from £ 2 2s. Misses RIDLEY. Scarborough -Leighton House &ISE: Gardens, Station, &c. Reading & Smoking Rooms. Billiard Table. Cycling Accommodation. Moderate Terms. Mrs. HART. Salcombe, S. Devon-York House, Adjoining and overlooking Harbour. Private Quay Frontage. Ideal Summer or Winter Resort. Write for Tariff. Southsea-Glenyon Private HoteL- c ^ R ^ with F :£* comfort. Billiard Room. Electric Light. En Pension. Moderate Terms. Nat. Tel. 741. Mrs. S. SMITH, Proprietress. Southsea— Sandringham Private Hotel. - *” Front Mr. and Mrs. THOS. SMITH, Proprietors. 38 Southsea — Southport — Sidmouth Southsea- Scullard’ s Victoria Hotel, and Residential. Centrally situated, close to Clarence Pier and Parade. Replete with every comfort. Table cl'IIote. excellent Cuisine. Mod. Terms. Electric Cars pass the door. Mun. Tel. No. 678. Mrs. SCULL ARP, Proprietress. Southport- Prince of Wales Hotel ■ Central & Comfortable. Ex- quisite Cuisine. Tariff Moderate. Electric Light. Lift. Tels. : “ Prince, Southport.’* Nat. Tel. 15. Hy. GASCOIGNE, Manager. SOUTHPORT. Smedley Hydropathic Establishment. ELECTRIC LIGHT . LATE DINNERS. The finest Turkish, Russian and other Baths in the Kingdom, and the most complete sanitary arrangements. Terms from 7/6 per Day. Summer Terms, June 1 to September 30, from 6/- per Day. Electric Trams from the House to Southport. SIDMOUTH, S. DEVON. FORTFIELD HOTEL ( Recently Enlarged ). H n> H FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL, complete with every luxury and convenience. Stands in its own private grounds, full south and facing sea. Three minutes from Medical Baths, close to Golf Links. Completely sheltered from North and East winds. Furnished by Maple & Co. Heated throughout. Private Suites of Apartments. Magnificent Drawing, Dining. Lounge, Billiard, and .Smoking Rooms. High-class Cuisine. Selected Wines. Moderate Tariff. Home Comforts. Sanitary arrangements perfect. Private Omnibus. MICHAEL HEALY, Proprietor and Manager. (Late of the Knowle Hotel.) Slateford 39 EDINBURGH HYDROPATHIC, SLATEFORD, MIDLOTHIAN, Fine Bracing Air off tne Pentland Hills, equal to that of Braemar. EXTENSIVE GhROIJXDS. The Largest and Finest Lawns in Scotland for Croquet, Lawn Tennis, and Bowls. TOURNAMENTS FOR LAWN TENNIS & CROQUET. HALF-MILE CYCLE COURSE, Etc. DARK ROOM FOR PHOTOGRAPHY. Terms from £2 12s. 6d. Per Week . Frequent Communication between the Establishment and the City (20 minutes). Fare 3d. 40 Strathpeffer STRATHPEFFER HIGHLAND SPA. BEN WYVIS Principal HOTEL Oldest Hote l." L^'hPEFFER HIGHEST SITUATION in STRATHPEFFER FOUR HUNDRED FEET ABOVE THE SEA. r T > HE Hotel stands on its own grounds, and is secluded X enough to secure to visitors the privacy and quiet ofVn ordinary country residence. Contains SPACIOU S PUBLIC ROOMS, CONSERVATORIES, LIBRARY, BALL and RECREATION ROOMS. Close to the GOLF COURSE. CYCLE, and CROQUET and TENNIS COURTS in Hotel Grounds. Salmon and Trout Fishing in River and Lochs. Electric Light throughout. A. WALLACE, Managing Director. Strathpeffer — Symonds Yat — Teignmouth — Torquay 41 HIGHLAND SPA STB A TIIPEFFER, BOSS-SHIRE. + These Sulphur Waters are among the Strongest in Europe, and are unrivalled in Great Britain in the treatment of CHRONIC RHEUMATISM, DISEASES OF THE SKIN, AND AFFECTIONS OF THE LIVER AND KIDNEYS. Superior Effervescing Chalybeate Spring, unique in this country, Sulphur, Peat, and Pine Baths. Douches in great variety. Massage, etc. Splendid Golf Course, Bowling, etc. First-class Band and Entertainments during the season. Symonds Yat-Royal Hotel » Office, & Church. Raglan, Chepstow, & Goodrich Castle, Tintern Abbey. Salmon and Trout Fishing. Stalactite Caves. Billiards. H. C. BAUMGARTE, Crown Lessee. Tnirlnmnnfh < ‘ BarmnarV ” Private Hotel & Boarding Estab. ItUgumUlilii-- DdilipalA Sea, River, & Moorland Excursions. Baths. Excellent Cuisine. Well-appointed. Moderate Terms. Mr. & Mrs. HENSON ( Formerly of Hastings). Teignmouth, S. Devon -Marina Pension • fully situated facing the Sea. S.W. aspect. Unrivalled Views. Every Home Comfort. Liberal Table. Moderate Terms. Miss M. J. PARSONS. ToidTimmith— Wact T awn Private Hotel. — High-class. Stands in lclglllilUULIl livJul LdWil own grounds, 3 acres. Close to Pier and Station. Baths, Billiards, Tennis. In connection with Brine Baths. Week-end terms, 13/-. On C.T.C. Apply Proprietress. The South Devon Health & Holiday Resort. One of the Loveliest Spots in the County. Climate probably Unsurpassed in England. First-class Turkish & other Baths. For terms, apply to C. F. CARPENTER, Bishop’s Teignton, nr. Teignmouth. TimillAV ftllfP fmirt Private Hotel & Boarding Estab.— Standing in JLUlqUtlj DULC vUUl L own grounds, facing south, overlooking Tor Bay. Well-appointed Public Rooms, Smoking Lounge. Week-end terms. For tariff, apply Proprietress (late Avenue Hotel, Minehead). Boarding Establishment. — Situated in its own private grounds. Near Sea, Station, and Town. Every Comfort. Excellent Cuisine. Moderate Terms. Mr. & Mrs. MILDREN, Proprietors. Torquay-Crofton House TOEQUiLlT. OSBORNE HOTEL ON Private Grounds, with A magnificent and uninter- rupted Sea and Land Views. South aspect. Billiard room. Tennis and Croquet Lawns. Secluded Sea Bathing. Sani- tation Certified. W. WE ST AW AY, PROPRIETOR. Nat. Telephone 183. 42 Torquay TOBQ UA Y, DE VON. Hotel (NEAREST STATION). B EST and MOST convenient position, Facing Sea. Unrivalled views. Electric Light. Heated. Statutory Sanitary Certificate, January, 1902. Ground Floor Suites. No Extra Charge for Attendance. Nat, Tel. No. 134. J. B. GILLEY, Proprietor. Also Proprietor of Clarence Hotel , Torre. Close to all places of interest. Grounds extend to sea front. Electric Light throughout. Terms moderate. Cuisine Excellent. Nat. Telephone No. 113. Mr. & Mrs. WILLIAM GRESHAM. TORQUAY. PRIVATE BOARDING ESTABLISHMENT. South aspect, beautifully situated, Good sea and land views. Own Lawn Tennis Courts (free to Visitors). :-to£ (H A few minutes' walk from Sta- tion, Town, Churches, Chapels, and all places of inter- est. Sanitary arrangements perfect. Large and well ventilated rooms- Baths .. and C.). Excellent cuisine. Mrs. Mann, Proprietress. Torquay — Warwick — Whitby 43 Torquay— Savernake Mansion Station, Sea, & Town. Good Sea Views. Heated in Winter. Baths. Billiards. Tennis & Croquet. Terms fr. £i ios. to £2. 10s. week. Mrs. HAWKINS , Proprietress. Torquay-The Sandringham Town. South Aspect, & sheltered from N. & E. winds. Billiards. Electric Light. Sanitation perfect. Miss WEST, Manageress. Tamil Rnlfrme First-class Boarding Establishment. iUlVjUuj 111 C DUllUilo Charmingly situated in one of the best positions. Facing Sea. Near Station, and within short distance of Golf Links. Up-to-date. Sanitary Certificate. Electric Light throughout. Billiards. Bath (H. & C. ). Late Dinner. Separate Tables. Nat. Tel. No. 244. Tariff, apply Mrs. E. RICHARDS. THE WOOLPACK. $mt-€hxs JmtHg field. /II\UCH enlarged, and heated throughout in winter. Within a few i IU minutes' walk of St. Mary’s Church, the Castle, and Earl of Leycester’s Hospital, and centrally situated for visiting Guy’s Cliffe, Kenilworth, Stoneleigh Abbey, Charlecote Park, and Stratford-on-Avon. LADIES’ COFFEE ROOM. BATHROOMS. SMOKING LOUNGE. EXCELLENT STABLING. CHARGES MODERATE. Motor Garage, Inspection Pit. Mrs. HALBEARD, Proprietress. WHITBY. WEST CLIFF PRIVATE HOTEL ant) J3oav5iii(i Establishment, ROYAL CRESCENT. NRIVALLED Situation, facing the Sea. Close to Saloon, Tennis wt Courts, Sands, and Bathing, and near Golf Links. Smoking Rooms, Bath Rooms, “Dark” Room for Photographers. Cycle Accommodation. Table d’Hote7p.m. Moderate Terms. Mrs. NEWBITT, Proprietress. Telegrams— “NEW BITT, WHITBY .” Nat Tel. No. 0100. WHITBY. ROYAL HOTEL. (Forming part of the West Cliff Estate.) T HE Hotel occupies a position which cannot be equalled, and maintains a half-century’s reputation for thorough comfort. Tariff on application to the Hotel. HY. WALKER, General Manager. 44 Whitby — Worthing — Great Yarmouth Whitby- -fWQPont Boarding House, . UlOubClll the Sea and Gardens. Near Golf Links. Public : 5, Royal Crescent. — Facing and Private Rooms. Cycle accommodation. Terms on application. Mrs. PATTISON. Whitby Harold Private Hotel ment, West ^fcliff. Cuisine Good. Home Comforts. Tariff, apply Mrs. JOHNSTONE, Proprietress. Worthing-Channel View Position. Near Pier, Tennis, and Bandstand. Excellent Cuisine. Smoking Room. Cycle House. Golf Links near. Misses WHITTAKER. Great Yarmouth-Queen’s Hotel ■ Parade. Facing Sea, Gardens, New Pier, and Aquarium. 125 Rooms. Table d’Hdte at separate tables. Illustrated Tariff post free. J. W. NIGHTINGALE. RACKHAM & CO.’S Small Blaclz: PEARL PILLS. 4fOR ALL DISEASES OF THE LIVER, and as a geeral Tonic in JJ cases of Nervous Debility and Exhaustion; also as a Blood Purifier, keeping the skin and complexion clear, brilliant, and free from Pimples, Humour, etc., their action is certain. In Bottles (120 Pills), 1/1% and 2/9, of all Chemists; or 1/3 and 2/10 post free from the Sole Proprietors — PACKHAM & CO St. Peter’s , Nomvich. THE WONDER BOOK. a flMcture annual for JSogs an& ©Iris. Crown 4 to, Picture Boards, 3s. 6d. ; Cloth Gilt, Gilt Edges, 5s. ; containing 8 Full-page Plates in Colour, Beautifully reproduced from Paintings by Leading Artists of the day. 260 Other Illustrations, Printed in various Tints. 258 Pages of brightly written Stories, Articles, and Verses, adapted for Children of all sorts and ages. A BOOK FAR in ADVANCE of ANYTHING NOW PUBLISHED. A MAGNIFICENT PICTURE GALLERY for CHILDREN. LONDON: WARD, LOCK & CO., LIMITED. Guide Book Advertiser 45 mineryFlibrary NEW SERIES. Large Cr. 8vo, Art Linen, Extra Gilt, Fully Illustrated, 2 /- 1 Missionary Travels and Researches in South Africa. With portrait and full-page plates. By David Livingstone, LL.D., D.C.L. 2 A Journal of Researches during the Voyage of H.M.S. “Beagle” round the World. By Charles Darwin, M.A., F.R.S., with portrait of Darwin, and other illustrations. 3 Life and Correspondence of Thomas Arnold, D.D. By Arthur Penrhyn Stanley, D.D. 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Roe 31 Holiday House Catherine Sinclair 33 Opening a Chestnut Burr Rev. E. P. Roe 34 Maearia A. J. Evans Wilson 35 A Man’s Foes E. H. Strain 3d A Day of Fate Rev. E. P. Roe 37 Prisoners of the Sea F. M. Kingsley 45 He Fell in Love with His Wife Rev. e. p. Roe 46 Two Years Ago Charles Kingsley 47 Danesbury House Mrs. Henry Wood 48 Ministering Children Miss Charlesworth 49 Moniea E. Everett Green 50 A Face Illumined Rev. E. P. Roe 5i Vashti A. J. Evans Wilson 52 The Earth Trembled Rev. E. P. Roe 53 Princess Sarah John Strange Winter 54 His Sombre Rivals Rev. E. P. Roe 55 The Cross Triumphant F. M. Kingsley 5d Paul Florence M. Kingsley 57 An Original Belle Rev. E. P. Roe 58 Daisy in the Field E. Wetherell 59 Naomi Mrs. J. B. Webb 60 Near to Nature’s Heart Rev. E. P. Roe 61 Edward Blake Chas. M. Sheldon 62 That Lass 0’ Lowrie’s F. H. Burnett 64 Stepping Heavenward E. Prentiss 65 Inez A. J. Evans Wilson 66 Helen’s Babies John Habberton 67 Agatha’s Husband Mrs. Craik 68 The Head of the Family Mrs. Craik 69 A Ring of Rubies Mrs. L. T. Meade 70 The Days of Bruce Grace Aguilar 7i Adam Bede George Eliot 72 East Lynne Mrs. Henry Wood 73 The Channings Mrs. Henry Wood 74 Mrs. Halliburton’s Troubles Mrs. Henry Wood 75 A Life for a Life Mrs. Craik 76 The Mill on the Floss George Eliot LONDON: WA11D, LOCK & CO., LIMITED. 48 Guide Book Advertiser WARD, LOCK & CO.’S Six Shilling JMovels BY POPULAR AUTHORS. Large Crown 8vo . Bound in Cloth Gilt, and mostly Illustrated. By STANLEY WE V MAN My Lady Rotha By S. R. CROCKETT Joan of the Sword Hand Strong Mac By MAX PEMBERTON Pro Patria Christine of the Hills A Gentleman’s Gentleman Jewel Mysteries The Gold Wolf By A. E. W. MASON Lawrence Clavering By TOM GALLON Jarwick, the Prodigal By A. W. MARCHMONT When I was Czar By Snare of Love The Queen’s Advocate A Courier of Fortune By SIR Wm. MAGNAY, Bt. 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SNAITH Fierceheart, the Soldier Mistress Dorothy Marvin Lady Barbarity Willow, the King By ARCHIBALD EYRE The Trifler The Custodian LONDON: WARD, LOCK & CO., LIMITED, W POND’S " ARTH RITICUS (AR-THRIT-ICUS) Js composed of Mineral Saline Salts and taken in a pleasant effervescent form. Cures Gout, Rheumatism, Rheumatic Gout, Lumbago, Sciatica and all Rheumatic Affections. IT CONTAINS NO Dili: US, XO COLCHICUM. Arthriticus neutralizes all Gouty and Rheumatic Acidity in the Stomach, Liver, and Bowels ; removes the offending matter from the System, the Blood is purified, the Liver and Kidneys are relieved, the Joints become supple, and there is a general freedom from pain. The Skin, participating in the improvement, loses any Gouty Eczema which may exist, and assumes a healthy appearance. PREPARED ONLY BY GEO. P. POND & SON, Chemists, 68, Fleet Street, London. PRESERVE YOUR TEETH. JET \J 131 J J iS PREVENT TOOTH-ACHE. TOOTH PASTE 1/-, 2/6, and 4/- DE COURCY’S TOOTH NERVE DESTROYER, Is, An Instant Cure for Tooth-ache. Painless and most easy of application. DE COURCY’S ENAMEL FOR STOPPING TEETH, Is. A permanent stopping. Prevents tooth-ache recurring. POST FREE. Prepared only by GEO. P. POND & SON, 68, FLEET STREET, CITY, LONDON. ORIGINAL PLYMOUTH GIN. STannfact/ured Solely by COATES & CO., BUCK FRIARS DISTILLERY, PLYMOUTH. BOSTON COLLEGE ' mil HI ill III 1 j II | Seeds and Bulbs 1 90S 1 024 7^ 47 3 1 fj« Flower s Kitchen Garden of Finest Selected Strains %.Test ed Growth Barr’s Collections of Best Vegetable Seeds Contain a Liberal Selection of high quality Vegetable Seeds, sufficient for one year’s supply. 5 / 6 , 7 / 6 , 12 / 6 , 21 /-, 42 /-, 63 /-, and 105 /- Barr’s Collections of Choice Flower Seeds. The most useful and decorative Annuals, Perennials, &c., for the Flower Garden and Greenhouse. 2 / 6 , 5 / 6 , 10 / 6 , 21 /-, 30 /-, 42 /-, 63 /- BARR’S SEED GUIDE contains a descriptive List of the best Vegetables and the most beautiful Flowers for Garden and Greenhouse, with many useful hints on culture. Invaluable to Gardeners, Amateurs, and Exhibitors. Free on Application. BARR & SONS, 11, 12, & 13, King St., Covent Garden, London. Aurseries — DITTON HILL. Surbiton, Surrey. Visitors Invited.