Hi Wan f3flfi$K m V m I II BHHffim ifttln flHHl Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2011 with funding from Boston Library Consortium Member Libraries http://www.archive.org/details/shillingcookeryfOOsoye e 004J A SHILLING COOKERY FOR THE PEOPLE: EMBRACING AN ENTIRELY NEW SYSTEM OF PLAIN COOKERY AND DOMESTIC ECONOMY, By ALEXIS SOYER, AUTHOR OF "THE MODERN HOUSEWIFE, ETC. ETC. "Religion feeds the soul, Education the mind, Food the body." Soter'3 History of Food. ©ne f^untrteti anti Kfaetg*jRrat SgiatMrcnfc LONDON: GEO. ROUTLEDGE & CO., EARRINGDON STREET. NEW YORK: 18, BEEKMAN STREET. 1858. [The Author of this Work reserves the right of translating iQ . LONDOTT: SAYII1 AND EDWARDS, PRINTERS, CHAWDOS STREET. 150821 TO THE EIGHT HONOURABLE THE EARL OF SHAFTESBURY, ETC. ETC. ETC. My Lord, The kind condescension which permits the dedication of this work to one of such eminent philanthropic sentiments as your Lordship, has a claim upon my most profound gratitude, and more than repays me for the time and study I have devoted to its production With the highest consideration, I have the honour to be, Your Lordship's most humble and obedient servant, ALEXIS SOYER. PKEFACE TO THE 1 10 th THOUSAND. It is with the most profound gratitude that I have onco more to thank the British public for their extraordinary and ever increasing patronage ; extraordinary is indeed the only word applicable to the success of this my last work, which has actually attained its hundred and tenth thousand in less than four months. In this, the last edition of 10,000 copies, completing the above wonderful number, I have been induced by some friends to make my appearance at the head of the work as I am now in my ninth lustre. The majority of those friends being ladies, and making it a point of honour never to refuse anything in my power to those charming members of society, I immediately went to my friend, Mr. Hogg, the eminent photographer of West Strand, who in a few seconds produced a facsimile of Yours most gratefully and devotedly, A. SOY Ell in the year I85i i CONTENTS. TAOX Introduction. Letter . • . • Letter • • • • Letter . . • Soups in Iron Saucepan or Stewpan • Gridiron ...» Fish on Gridiron . . • How to Boil all kinds of Fish . • Fish in Tin-pan in Oven . • Fried Fish .... The Three-legged Iron-pot Important Observations on Curing Haras and Bacon Lamb ..... Ox-liver as used in France . • French Pot-au-feu Important Remarks on Cod-liver Oil Carthusian of Meat and Vegetables General Ignorance ef the Poor in Cooking The Gridiron and Frying-pan . Important Remarks on Steak and Rumpsteak Introduction to Frying-pan Fowls .... Curious Effects of Imagination . • Introduction to Baking Stewpan . Hints on the Pig Od Roasting .... How to Roast On the Economy of Roasting by Gas, Note Cottage Roasting Time-table for Roasting On Meat in Baker's Oven . . A few Hints on Baking Meat . An Improved Baking -dish. . . A Series of Receipts on Baked Meats Meat Puddings Meat Pies .... General Lesson on the Cooking of Vegetables Plant called the Thousand Heads Eggs . .^ . Omelettes or Fraise . • On Pastry • X CONTENTS. PAGB National French Cake, or Galette . ." i . 125 Introduction to Sweet and Savoury Pies . 126 Sweet and Fruit Puddings . . • 128 Observations on Bottled Preserves « 134 Stewed Fruits .... 140 Sweet and Fruit Cakes 142 Bread .... , 146 Sauces . . . < 149 Salads . • • • , 155 Relishes * - • . 159 Mushrooms ib. Culinary, Miscellaneous , 361 Pickles . 166 A few Hints on Coffee, Tea, &c. « ib. Beverages , 168 Series of New and Cheap Drinks . 170 On Marketing « ib. Kitchen Requisites . . . . 174 On the Selection of Vegetables . « . 175 Soyer's Aerial Cooking Stove ♦ ib, IMPORTANT OBSERVATIONS. First, most of the receipts, having been especially written for the various ordinary kitchen utensils, some of them may appear to the reader to be repetitions, which is not the case, as the same food may be used, yet each process will differ one from the other, from having been cooked in a different manner. Secondly, to obviate the reading of two or three receipts to be able to execute one, I have made each receipt in itself as complete as possible, as regards seasoning and proportion, and the few references I unavoidably make will, after a little practice, become familiar to my readers Many of the receipts may appear to you rather lengthy, but I want to draw your attention to the fact, that they are more than receipts— indeed, I may call them plain lessons, some containing a number of receipts in one. t m In some cookery books many receipts are explained m few lines, which at first sight gives to the thing the appearance of simplicity ; but when acted on by the uninitiated are found totally impracticable. By my plan my readers may read and prepare the contents of two or three lines at a time, so that when they get at the end of a lesson, their dish will be found well seasoned and properly cooked. INTRODUCTORY LETTERS. Dear Eloise, More than a year has now elapsed since I wrote to you, with a promise that I would send you such receipts as should be of use to the artisan, mechanic, and cottager. The time has, however, passed so quickly, that I was not aware of its hasty flight, until I took up the last edition of our "Housewife." But still, dearest, I must say I have not lost any time ; for you will find that my letters, which have conveyed my receipts from time to time, have been dated from almost every county in the United Kingdom. In the course of my peregrinations, I have made a point of visiting the cottages and abodes of the industrious classes generally, and have also closely examined the pecu- liarities and manners which distinguish each county, as well as the different kinds of labour; and I have viewed with pleasure the exertions made by philanthropic indi- viduals to improve the morals of the labouring class, and render their dwellings more comfortable. But still I have found a great want of knowledge in that one object which produces almost as much comfort as all the rest put together, viz., the means of making the most of that food which the great Architect of the Heavens has so bountifully spread uefore us on the face of the globe. 2 INTRODUCTORY LETTERS. Those who visit these humble abodes to inculcate the divine precepts of the Saviour of mankind, do but half the great work, unless they at the same time show how those things which the Almighty has created as food for man can be employed towards his nourishment. In some of my letters, my dear friend, I think I have 5ent you a description of some scenes I witnessed in the course of my rambles, especially in Ireland, resulting from a want of knowledge, all of which bears a moral; and what a high feeling of delight and satisfaction it will be to us, should we find that the result of our labour is crowned with success, in ameliorating the conditions of these classes; for believe me, I was right when I stated that the morals of a people greatly depend on their food and wherever the home of an individual, in whatever class of society he may move, is made comfortable and happy, the more moral and religious will that person be. Dearest Hortense, I highly approve of your plan ; it is time that it was put into action. I am fearfal that our friends, the public, to whom we promised, some four years since, a work like the present, will have become impatient ; but they will be gainers by the delay, as by your visits to the various parts of the United Kingdom, you have obtained that insight into the domestic arrange- ments of the class of persons for whom it is intended, that could not be obtained by any other means. INTRODUCTORY LETTERS. 3 Your new plan of writing a series of receipts peculiarly adapted for such humble utensils as the gridiron, frying- pan, iron pan, and black pot, is at once original, and cannot fail of being very effective; for no matter how humble or poor the dwelling, one of those faithful servants are sure to be found at its post ; and I do not doubt but that, under your tuition, they will prove of greater value to the public at large than they hitherto have been. If a person, after purchasing this work for a shilling, had to lay out five or six more in kitchen utensils before he could cook by it, it would be a great drawback on its worth ; but by your happy and simple style, you have so successfully avoided all complicated matters in its pages, that nothing will be requisite but the aforesaid simple kitchen implements to bring it into action. I also perceive, with pleasure, that you have not omitted the slightest article of cheap food of any descrip- tion, which, with the numerous receipts you give for dressing the same, must prove a great blessing to many, and only require to be introduced to the notice of the public to form a part of their daily diet. It is to be regretted that men of science do not interest themselves more than they do on a subject of such vast magnitude as this; for I feel confident that the food of a country might be increased at least one-third, if the culinary science was properly developed, instead of its being slighted as it is now. I myself think it worthy the attention of a peer of the realm; for, as you justly observe, the morals of a country greatly depend on the INTRODUCTORY LETTERS. production and preparation of its food, and most heartily do I re-echo your sentiments. My dearest Friend, You are right. Cookery, ia our era, has been thought beneath the attention of men of science ; and yet, was there ever a political, commercial, or even a domestic event, but what always has been, and always will be, celebrated either by a banquet or a dinner? And pray, who is answerable for the comfort and conviviality of the guests of such festivals but the cook, who has been in- trusted with such important duties 1 The selection of good and proper beverages will, of course, greatly assist the cook's endeavours; but these may be purchased months, or even years, before you require them, which would of course give you an ample chance of remedying any error ; while a dinner is the creation of a day and the success of a, moment. Therefore you will perceive that nothing more disposes the heart to amicable feeling and friendly trans- actions, than a dinner well conceived and artistically prepared. In ancient times, a cook, especially if a man, was looked upon as a distinguished member of society; while now he is, in the opinion of almost every one, a mere menial. Still there are a few who highly appreciate the know- ledge he possesses, especially in the higher circles, who have classified cookery as a high art. For example, let us see what one of the greatest chemists of the day INTRODUCTORY LETTER3. 5 (Liebig) says on this imperishable subject, in his valuable Trork, * The Chemistry of Food/' that M Among all the arts known to man there is none which enjoys a juster appreciation, and the products of which are more universally admired, than that which is concerned in the pre- paration of our food. Led by an instinct, which has almost reached the dignity of conscious knowledge, as the unerring guide, and by the sense of taste, which protects the health, the experienced cook, with respect to the choice, the admixture, and the preparation of food, has made acquisitions surpassing all that chemical and physiological science have done in regard to the doctrine or theory of nutrition. In soup and meat sauces, he imitates the gastric juice; and by the cheese which closes the banquet, he assists the action of the dissolved epithelium of the stomach. The table, supplied with dishes, appears to the observer like a machine, the parts of which are harmoniously fitted together, and so arranged that, when brought into action, a maximum of effect may be obtained by the theory of them. The able culinary artist accompanies the sanguineous matter with those which promote the process of solution and sanguifi- cation, in due proportion ; he avoids all kinds of unnecessary stimuli, such as do not act in restoring the equilibrium ; and he provides the due nourishment for the child or the weak old man, as well as for the strong of both sexes." Such is the high eulogium paid to culinary science by that learned man ; and perhaps there is no one more able of appreciating its value than him. Therefore I do not yet despair of seeing the day when that science, like others, will have its qualified professors. I now close our labours for the present, and wait with anxiety the first proof, which on receiving I wiii immediately correct and forward to you. COOKERY FOR THE PEOPLE. SOUPS, IN IRON SAUCEPAN, OR STEWPAN. SIMPLIFIED STOCK FOR SOUPS, GRAVIES, AND PLAIN SAUCES. Eloise, — Perhaps you are not aware of the reason why the great majority of people in this country are opposed to, and even accused of not liking, soup ; the simple reason is, that every receipt described in most Cookery Books, is so complicated and expensive, that they cannot afford either the money, time, or attention, to prepare it. I will therefore endeavour, in this little book, to obviate that difficulty, by simplifying the receipts, and reduce it to a system alike quick, nutritious, wholesome, and economical; and thus soup may forai a part of the daily fare of every dinner table. Please pay particular attention to the following receipt, for when you are perfect in it, and can make it quick and well, almost every sort of soup can be made from it, and it will often be referred to in different sauces and dishes. 1. Stock for Clear Soup. First Lesson. — Cut two pounds of knuckle or scrag of veal into small pieces, place them in the iron pot or ste^pan, with two ounces of salt butter or dripping two ounces of \ n bacon cut small, three teaspoonfuk of salt, half a spoonful of pepper, a gill of water, three middle-sized, or six ounces of, onions sliced. Put on the fire ; when boiling, stit round with a spoon for about ten minutes, or until it forms a whitish thick gravy at the bottom, or gets rather dry, then add five pints of hot or cold water ; when boiling, let it simmer gently for three quarters of an hour, skim it well, pass it through a sieve, and it will be found clear and ready for use for the following soups. Only one third of this quantity need be made* 8 eours. In caso bacon or ham cannot be obtained, use half a pound more meat and a little more salt. The meat not being overstewed, will be found excellent eaten plain, or with parsley and butter, or any sauce. 2. Second Lesson. — Proceed exactly as No. 1. Add two cloves and about two ounces of carrot, and the same of turnip, leeks, celery, or a quarter of a pound of one of them, if you cannot get the variety. To add more zest to the flavour, add the smallest quantity of thyme, winter savory, or a bay leaf. You are, no doubt, aware that at present, in most market towns, an assorted lot of vegetables may be obtained at one penny per plate, and sometimes at one halfpenny. This second lesson is very important, as it gives you the key whereby you may vary the flavour of every kind of soup. Note. This broth is of a nice white colour, and should it be required to look like sherry wine, add sufficient colouring, (see No. 453), or half a burnt onion when it is making : these in most large cities are now becoming common, and may be procured at the grocers, at the cost of eigbtpence the pound. They will go a great way, and if kept in a dry place will last for years. 3. Brown Gravies. — The following is very good for brown gauce, and also for every kind of roast meat, game, or poultry; and a gill of it may be used to give a colour to any kind of broth, instead of colouring or burnt onions. As there is a little difficulty to make it properly, it should only be done on particular occasions. Grease the bottom of the pot with about two ounces of fat, butter, or dripping; cut four onions in thick slices crossways, lay them on the bottom, and place over them three pounds of leg or shin of beef, or clod and sticking ; cut it slantway in pieces, chop the bone, then add two teaspoonfuls of salt, half a spoonfn/ of pepper; set it- on the fire until it begins to hiss, wbiel indicates that all the moisture is dispersed ; reduce the heat ol the fire by throwing ashes on the top ; put on the pan with the cover over. Let the onions stew until quite brown, but not burnt, and the fat is as clear as oil, which you will easily perceive jy holding the pan or pot on one side, the contents of which will be smoking hot, and stick to the bottom, though not burning, immediately add five pints of cold water; when boiling, skim and simmer one hour; pass through the sieve, and put by till SOUPS. 9 (/anted, ft will keep for many days in winter, and also in summer, by boiling it every other day, with the addition of half a gill of water added to it now and then. 4. Lesson No. 2. — The remains of roast or boiled meat, game, poultry, &c, may be added, cut up, and the bones broken, using only half the quantity of meat. The meat may be taken out and served separate, with a mustard or any sharp sauce. The addition of cloves (say four), a little mace, carrots, turnips, and celery, and a few sweet herbs, will vary the flavour of the gravy. 5. Clear Vegetable Soup, Lesson No. 1. — Cut in small dice, two-thirds of carrots and turnips, and one-third of onions, leeks, and celery, altogether about half a pound ; wash them well, drain, put into pan or iron pot, two ounces of butter or dripping, and a teaspoonful of sugar; put on the fire, stir often; when no moisture is to be seen add three pints of broth No. 1, simmer and skim, until the carrots are tender, and serve. If all the above vege- tables cannot be obtained at the same time, use the same weight of either. Be careful that you remove the fat from all clear soup. All clear vegetable soup, when done, ought to partake of a brownish colour. 6. Lesson No. 2. — The addition of a few green peas, when ia season, also small pieces of brocoli, a cauliflower, or a few Brussels sprouts, previously boiled, makes an improvement in the above. A little chervil and tarragon render it both pleasant and refreshing. 7. Clear Turnip, Lesson No. 3. — Peel and cut in large dice half a pound of turnips, put in pan with butter or fat, and alittl*. sugar ; proceed as above, Lesson No. 1, add the broth, simmer skim, and serve. It will not require so long doing as No. L Give it a nice brown colour. If turnips are either streaky ot Ipongy, they will not do. 8. Jerusalem Artichokes. — Wash, peel, cut in dice, and fry ac above ; when nothing but the clear fat is seen in the pan, and they are sufficiently done, add the broth. A few minutes will cool: Item. 9. Carrot Soup. — For carrots proceed as ?»bove, and dimmer till tender ; they take twice as long as the artichokes doing. 10 soups. 10. Vermicelli and Macaroni. — Pray, Eloise, why should not the workman and mechanic partake of these wholesome and nu- tritious articles of food, which have now, in consequence of those restrictive laws on provisions having been repealed, become so plentiful and cheap ? It only requires to know how to cook them, in order that they should become as favourite a food in these northern climes, as they are in the southern.* Boil three pints of the broth No. 1, break into it a quarter of a pound of vermicelli or macaroni; boil till tender, and serve. Macaroni takes twice as long as vermicelli doing. Or, the macaroni can be boiled separate, and kept in salt and water for some days, and used as required for soups and made dishes. 11. Hice. — Wash well two ounces of common Bengal rice ; boil it gently in three pints of broth ; when tender, serve. 12. Tapioca and Semolina. — In case of illness, two ounces of tapioca or semolina may be used instead. 13. Wliite Soup with Meat. — When the broth No. 1 is done, skim off the fat, put the meat in the tureen, then put into a 6asin two ounces ,of flour, mix gently with half a pint of milk, a half teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter ditto of pepper ; add to the broth by degrees ; boil it ten minutes, and keep stirring ; skim and serve with the meat. Fried or toasted bread cut in dice may be added. 14. Good Write Mock Turtle Soup may be easily and cheaply made thus : — Purchase a calf's head ; if large, use one half for a day's dinner ; cook as receipt No. 87 ; take the remains of that, if any, with the other half, and remove the bone ; cut the meat into square pieces ; add it in proportion of one pound of meat to every four quarts of broth of No. 1 ; mix some flour and milk, as above, and add it to it, and half a teaspoonful ei cayenne pepper, and four cloves ; let it simmer on the fire fol one hour, tie up six sprigs of savory, same of thyme, which put into the soup, and remove when serving. The juice of half a lemon is an improvement, just before serving, as well as a drop of * Macaroni is now selling in London at fivepcnce per pound, and makes four pounds of food when boiled, as No. 463. SOUPS. 1 1 wine, if handy. If required brown, add three tablespoonfuls ol colouring ; and use water or broth for thickening, instead of milk. The water in which the calf's head is boiled may be kept, and added to the stock. This soup will keep for a long time if boiled occasionally, and a little water added ; it should never be covered, or fermentation will commence ; it should be occasionally stirred until cold. Strong stocks are more likely to turn sour than thin ones, more particularly if they have vegetables and flour in them ; to prevent which, when this soup is kept in a basin, leave the mouth exposed to the air. 15. Coio-hecl. — Another very cheap and nutritions soup may be made by an ox-foot or cow-heel ; having bought them cleaned and partly boiled, stew them till tender, remove the meat from the bone, cut them into nice pieces, and proceed as for mock- turtle. 1G. White Soup, with Vegetables, Sfc. — Having cut and fried the same quantity of vegetables as No. 1, add them to the white soup, free from meat as No. 13 ; simmer and skim off the fat. Two ounces of vermicelli, macaroni, rice, &c, previously boiled, can be nsed in the same way. 17. Puree, or Thick Vegetable Soups. — Green Pea.—Vut % quart of large green peas, when cheap, in the pot or pan, with two ounces of butter or fat, and the same of lean bacon cut small, a middling-sized onion, little mint, two teaspoonfuls of salt, one of sugar, half the same of pepper, a gill of water ; set on slow fire, stir now and then, or until no more moisture remains on the bottom of the pan; add two or three tablespoonfuls of flour, stir round quick, and break the peas against the side of the pan with a wooden spoon ; moisten with a quart of milk and a quart of water, simmer twenty minutes, or more if old peas, and serve. This, by leaving out the bacon, becomes Meagre Soup. Fried bread, in small dice, is a good accompaniment. If you have any broth (No. 1), use it instead of the milk and *ater. By passing the peas through a hair sieve, which is done by breaking and pressing them with the back of the spoon, an tiviting puree is produced; after which warm up, and serve. 18. Pumpkin Soup is a very favourite dish in many parts o 12 soups. France, especially with the juveniles ; and when in season, there- is not a school, college, hospital, convent, or monastery, where it is not made; a proof that it must he very wholesome. In this country, whose climate will not allow its arriving at the same size as on the Continent, the Vegetable Marrow, the American Butter Squash, and the Mammoth Gourd, will replace them. Cut about two pounds of the flesh of the pumpkin or gourd into large dice, put it into your pan, with three ounces of salt butter or fat ; add two teaspoonfuls of salt, the same of sugar, a little pepper, and half a pint of water ; set on the fire, and stew gently for twenty minutes. When in pulp, add two table- spoonfuls of Hour, stir round, and moisten with three pints of either milk, skim-milk, or water, boil ten minutes longer, and serve with fried or toasted bread, cut in dice. 19. Meagre Soups. — This soup is on the list of meagre soups, a word used by the Catholics for dishes partaken of in Lent, but which is not understood in England ; the word having the meaning, want of strength. But this soup, and many others in the same category, are well worthy the attention of the middle classes of this country, it being only meagre in name, and not in fact, as it possesses a large quantity of farinaceous matter j bread being also served with it. 20. Vegetable Marrow. — Peel, and take out the inside, if seeded, cut in slices about two pounds ; put in saucepan on the fire, with a quarter of a pound of butter or fat ; add two tea- spoonfuls of salt, one of sugar, and one quarter of the same of pepper, a gill of water, and one onion sliced ; stew gently until in pulp, then add two tablespoonfuls of flour, and proceed as for pumpkin soup. 21. Turnip Soup. — Use two and a half pounds of good turnips, and proceed as above. 22. Bed Carrot Soup. — Scrape gently, and cut in very thin slices two pounds of carrots ; put them in the saucepan or pot with two onions sliced, two ounces of ham cut small, two cloves, a little thyme, salt, pepper, sugar, as above, half a pint of water, simmer gently forty minutes, then add three tablespoonfuls of flour, and two quarts of broth (No. 1), or use milk, or even water. soups. 13 {t is much better passed through a hair sieve, after which warm ap again and serve. IVhite Carrot. — Proceed as for the red. The Swede, Parsnip, Bed and White Beet. — Proceed as for carrot. 23. New Spring and Autumn Soup. — A most refreshing and exquisite soup. At the end of the London season, when the .oarkets are full of everything, and few to partake of them, this soup can be made as a bonne bouche : — Wash, dry, and cut up four cabbage lettuces, and one coss ditto, a handful of sorrel, a little tarragon and chervil, and two |r three small cucumbers peeled and sliced ; put into a saucepan a quarter of a pound of butter, then set in the vegetables ; put on a slow fire, and stir often, until there is no liquid remaining ; add two tablespoonfuls of Hour, mix well, and moisten with two quarts of broth (No. 1) or water, and set it to boil ; when boil- ing, add a pint of green peas, two teaspoonfuls of powdered sugar, a little pepper and salt ; when the peas are tender, serve. If you use water, increase the quantity of seasoning. New CocJc-a-LeeMe. Ma chere Amie, — With all due respect to Scotch cookery, I will always give the preference, in the way of soup, to their cock-a-lcekie, even before their inimitable hoclge-podge. Having a very old friend, from the neighbourhood of Dundee, who used to praise my cock-a- leekie, when on a visit to St. John's Wood, I thought I would give him the same treat here, and on looking over my frugal store and garden of Camellia Cottage, I found I had all that was required, barring the bird; but, with a little perseverance and ingenuity, I succeeded in producing a very nice soup, although it wanted the principal ingredient, so that it deceived not only my husband, but my friend from the other side of the Tweed. Here is the receipt : 24. — I bought two pounds of veal cutlet, and cut it into pieces, like the flesh from the breast cf a fowl, and put them in the pan with a quarter of a pound of butter, the same of lean nacon, three cloves, two good onions sliced, two teaspoonfuls of gait, one of sugar, half a one of pepper, a gill of water ; set it on the fire, turn it over until forming a white glaze at the bottom, add to it five pints of water, simmer half an hour, pass through a sieve, save the best pieces of the veal. In the mean- 14 soups. time blanch two pounds of leeks, free from the top green part, for ten minutes, in a gallon of water, and drain them ; then boil the stock and half the leeks together, till almost in a pulp, then add the other half of the leeks and the meat, also eighteen good fresh French plums ; simmer half an hour, and serve. I must observe that my friend praised it very much for having j>ut in the flesh of the fowl only, as he thought, and not the whole carcase, which is the way they serve it in Scotland ; an exceedingly inconvenient way, as everybody expects a piece ol the fowl, and you often tear it to pieces in serving. 25. Simplified Hodge- Podge. — Cut two pounds of fresh scrag cf mutton into small pieces, which put into a stewpan, with three quarts of cold water, and a tablespoonful of salt, one ditto of sugar, half a ditto of pepper ; set it on the fire ; when boiling, place it at the side to simmer for one hour; keep it skimmed ; well wash a large carrot, two turnips, two onions, and six small cabbage lettuces ; cut them up, and place in the pot, and simmer till done. A pint of green peas, if in season, may be added. A carrot grated is an improvement. If in winter, use cabbage instead of lettuce. Serve the meat with it. 26. Various Meat Soups. — Giblet. — These should be pro- cured ready cleaned, but if not, they must be scalded ; when $one, cut them into about twelve pieces, wash them well, and Jry in a cloth ; put into a pan a quarter of a pound of butter of dripping, set it on the fire, melt it, then add four ounces of flow, stir continually until it begins to brown, add two ounces of lean bacon, and two onions or leeks sliced, fry a few minutes longer, put in the giblets, fry gently for ten minutes, stirring now and then, pour over two quarts of water, stir till boiling, and set it to simmer ; then add two teaspoonfuls of salt, half one of pepper one of sugar, three clones, a little thyme, bay leaf, and about a quarter of a pound of celery well washed and cut up small; continue simmering until the giblets are tender, remove the flit, and serve. A wineglass of sherry and a little cayenne may be added. A. pound of beef or veal is, of course, a great im- provement. This receipt is for the giblets of a middle-sized turkey. soups. 15 27. Hare Soup. My dear EloisB, — Since the alteration in our circumstances I have learnt to practise the most rigid economy, which you will remark iij this receipt. When I buy a hare, as I sometimes Jo, for two sliil* lings, skinning it myself, nnd selling the skin for fourpence, I sava all the blood in a pie-dish, take out the heart and liver, removing the gall ; 1 then cut the hare into two, across the back, close to the last ribs, and cut this part into pieces, using it for soup, and the hindpart I keep for roasting the following day. 28. Hare Soup. — I then proceed as for giblet sou£, only using half a pound of either veal, beef, or mutton, cut into dice, and put in the pot with the hare. Fifteen minutes before serving, I mix the blood with the heart and liver, which I have chopped fine, and boil it up ten minutes ; skim and serve. The addition of a little brown sugar and a glass of port wine is an improvement : if no wine, a little stout or porter will improve it. It ought to be of a dark brown colour, for which use colouring. 29. Ox Tail. — Cut them at the joints, and proceed as for giblets, adding one pint more water for two small tails, and simmer half an hour longer, or till done. This should be of a brown colour. Vegetables cut into dice may be added. Serve when tender : some will take double the time cooking, according to size. 30. Ox Ckeek. — Boil half a large cheek for twenty minutes in two quarts of water, to set it ; take it out, cut it into thin slices, or small pieces, and then proceed exactly as for giblets. Serve when tender. 31. Simplified Mulligatawny, quickly done. Lesson 1.— Cut in small dice two pounds of leg of veal, no bone, then put in the pan with two ounces of salt butter, two teaspoonfuls of salt, a quarter that of pepper, a quarter of a pound of onions sliced, and a wine-glass of water. Put it in the pan and place on the fire, stir it about until nearly dry ; two ounces of bacon or ham is an improvement; then add a good teaspoonful and a half of curry powder, four of flour, and one of brown sugar ; moisten with five pints of water, simmer for an hour or a little longer, %kim, and serve. Half a pound of rice, as No. 455, may be served either with it or separate. 6 soups. Lesson 2. — To the above may be added a small apple, cut in Aiin slices, also any other meat may be used, instead of veal, fmd a little bunch of aromatic herbs; the meat to remain in the fcoup. 32. New Mutton Broth. — Cut two pounds of the scrag, or any other lean part of mutton, in ten or twelve pieces, put in a pan with two ounces of fat, two teaspoonfuls of salt, half of pepper, a gill of water, two middle-sized onions, a good teacupful of pearl barley. Set it on the fire, stir round until it is reduced, moisten with five pints of water, boil, and skim, simmer tw r o hovrs ; and serve. 33. Potato Soup. — Proceed as above, omit the barley, add two pounds of potatoes, peeled and cut in slices, put them in when the broth is boiling ; simmer till in pulp, and serve. A few sprigs of parsley, or the flowers of four marigolds, is an improvement, and, at the same time, an agreeable change. 34 Ox Tail Soup in Baking Tan. — Divide two ox tails, wash them well in cold water, then put them in the pan, with three teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, four cloves, a little thyme, if handy, two good onions ; add three quarts cf water, two tablespoonfuls of colouring; put on the cover, place it in a moderate oven for three hours to simmer, take off the fat, which save for use, and serve. Half a pound of any vegetable, mixed or not, cut in dice, can be added with advantage. 35. Ox Cheelc in Baking Ban. — Get half a one ready boned, if not to be had, get the half head with the bone, in w r hich case they should be broken small and put in the broth ; but it gives more trouble than it is worth. The solid meat at threepence per pound is more economical. Wash it well, cut off the white part, put the cheek in the pan, and proceed exactly as above , only give it three or four hours to bake. A little mixed spice improves the flavour. Take the fat oif, remove the meat, cut it into small pieces, put it into the tureen, and pour the broth over. 36. Cheap Pea Soup. — Put into the iron pot two ounces of dripping, one quarter of a pound of bacon, cut into dice, two good onions sliced ; fry them gently until brownish, then add one large or two small turnips, the same of carrots, one leek, and one head of celery, all cut thin and slanting (if all these FISH ON GRIDIRON. 17 :annot be obtained, use any of them, but about tbe same amount) ; fry for ten minutes more, and then add seven quarts o* wafer ; boil up, and add one pound and a half of split peas simmer for two or three hours, until reduced to a pulp, which depends on the quality of the pea, then add two tablespoonfuls of salt, one of sugar, one of dried mint ; mix half a pound of flour smooth in a pint of water, stir it well ; pour in the soup, boil thirty minutes, and serve. 37. The above Mecgre. — Precisely as above, only oil or butter used instead of bacon or dripping : skiin-milk could with advantage be used, in which case add three ounces of salt. Although this is entirely deprived of animal substances, yet the iarinaceous ingredients, with the addition of bread, will act generously on the digestive organs, satisfying the heartiest eater. GRIDIRON. With this primitive utensil a great deal may be done in the way of cooking, but it requires care, or otherwise great loss of food and money will be sustained ; a few minutes' constant attention, when the article is on the gridiron, will save at least twenty per cent., and the palate will feel more gratified. I use two kinds of gridirons, each costing very little; one is of cast iron, to go on the fire, and the other is of iron wire, made double, to hang from the bar ot the grate before the fire, made so as not to too much press the object cooked within it. The principal care in this, as in all kitchen utensils, is never to put them away dirty; always wiping the gridiron after it has been used, and again before you use it, and a place kept where it should be hung. WHAT I CAN COOK WITH MY GRIDIRON. Firstly, Fish, nearly all sorts, both dried and fresh, either whole or in pieces. I shall not begin with the king of the ocean, but with one of the most humble of its inhabitants, and which daily gratifies the palates of millions ; it is — TSie Plain Red Herring. — Though we have agreed to make use cf tvery kind of eatable food, it is still important to point out the best 18 FISH ON GRIDIRON. quality first, for I must tell you, that the quality of herring*, varies rs much, if not more, than any other kind of food; the proper way of curing them being as important to know as the quality of the flesh itself. This unassuming kind of fish, which we may venture to call the poor man's friend, ought to be chosen plump, though not too full of roe, as when they have large roes they are sure to be oily, and cannot have taken the salt properly ; they feel softish to the touch, eat stringy, and sometimes decay, and emit a had smell while cooking; these are unwholesome : but if hard and firm, the flesh reddish, the roe well set, and smell sweet, they are good. The only drawback is that they might be too salt, which cannot be avoided, only by cutting the back up, and soaking them in lukewarm water for a few hours, and when taken out well dried on a cloth, previous to their being cooked. But the way to ascertain if a herring is too salt, is to take the fish in the left hand, and pull out a few of the fins from the back, and taste ; you may thus find out the quality and flavour. This plan is adopted by large dealers. 38. Wipe your herring ; dry it well in a cloth : you may slightly split the back, or make a few incisions crossways; rub it with flour, or dress it plainly, by placing the herring on the gridiron about six inches over a clear fire, or before it ; turn them often, and in five minutes they may be done, according to size. Or, when it is done, mix a piece of butter with a little mustard together, and place inside of it, or rub it over. By opening the back, it will do much quicker ; but to keep the essence in it, it should be done whole. Or, butter and chopped parsley, and a little vinegar or lemon juice. Or, butter and chopped fennel and onions, very fine. Or, cut off the head, open it up the back with a knife, and remove the back bone of the herring ; put in about one ounce of butter and chopped parsley, with a slight tint of onion. Fold two herrings together in some paper, so that the fat does not escape ; broil gently for nearly twenty minutes, and serve. The butter is to be inclosed between the two herrings. The same plan with a bloater and a fresh herring dressed together is first-rate. 39. Fresh Herrings. — These should be cleaned and scaled, the head removed, opened on the back, and the gut taken out. Make three slight incisions on each side, throw some pepper and PISH ON GRIDIRON. 19 salt over it, broil for ten minutes, and serve plain, or with either plain melted butter or fish sauce. Or, a little mixed pickle chopped fine, with melted butter, also makes a good sauce for herrings. 40. Haddoclc. — A fine Finnan haddock should be rubbed with butter, and plain broiled before the fire for ten minutes, or more if rather large, keeping it of a yellowish colour, and turning it occasionally. If very salt, steep it in water for one hour ; beat the thick side down, and broil gently. Another Way. — Cut a middling-sized haddock in six pieces, which wash in cold water, take them out, and place them eitliei in a bason or pan, then pour over about a quart of boiling water, covering your bason or pan over, so that no steam can escape- after your haddock has steamed ten minutes, take it out, placf on a dish, rub over with butter, sprinkle a little pepper over, and serve. Sprats and pickled herrings can also be done this way, as likewise smoked salmon; you may vary the flavour of this simple dish, by adding either a little chives, thyme, winter savory, bayleaf, parsley, eschalots, or onions. 41. Wldtings, Fresh, should be merely cleaned, cut on each side, rubbed over with salt, pepper, and flour, and broiled for seven to ten minutes. Serve with melted butter, or without, adding a little vinegar or lemon in the sauce. 42. Mackerel. — Cut off the point of the head, open it at the back, keep it open flat. Pepper and salt, and fennel, if handy ; place it between the fish, broil gently for ten minutes, and serve with either melted butter, or parsley and butter, or black butter sauce. (See No. 425 a.) 43. — Cut as above, open it on the back, chop up a small piece of fat bacon, with some parsley, one eschalot, or a small onion; add a teaspoonful of vinegar ; fill the inside with this stuffing. Close it again ; tie it round with a string, broil very gently for twelve to fifteen minutes: it depends on the fire and size. Serve plain. 44. — Prepare it as above, and put it into a pie dish, with vinegar, salt, pepper, and slices of onion, for an hour, and broil as before. 20 FISH ON GRIDIRON. 45. — Get a tin baking dish, and put into it some chives chopped fine, some parsley, salt, pepper, a little vinegar, and about one ounce of butter or lard : put the mackerel, cut open at the back, and divided in six pieces ; place it on the gridiron, turn the pieces, and in about twenty minutes they are dona Serve it on the tin dish. Onions may be used. 46. — It may be put into paper, like the herring, No. 38, anur hours. Bread sliced, put into the tureen, and pour the broth, with some of the vegetables, cv^r ; serve the meat separata, and the remaining vegetables round. VARIOUS DISHES IN TTIE IKON SAUCEPAN. otf If this simple receipt is well attended to, you will find it a very good soup and bouilli. If you run short of any of the vegetables, make it good with others. If no burnt onions or colouring, the soup will be white, instead of a sherry colour; but still it will be good. In France they always put in half a pound of ox-liver to every four pounds of meat. I am sure they are too good judges, over the water, to spoil their soup ; in fact, there the ox-liver costs as Jiucb as the meat — sixpence per pound — therefore it is not with a view oi Saving, but to make it better. 97a. French Ragout of Mutton. — Put in the pot a quarter of a pound of dripping : when hot, peel and cut twenty small turnips, or ten large ones, into pieces the size of a walnut ; put them into the fat, and fry until brownish. Take them out, then put into the fat a quarter of a pound of flour ; stir round until brown. You have prepared four pounds of scrag of mutton, cut in small pieces ; put them in, and stir round ; then add enough water to cover the meat ; stir until boiling. When the mutton is nearly done, which you will find by trying it with a fork, add the turnips ; season with three teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, the same of brown sugar, and a little bit of scraped garlic, if handy. Any part of mutton may be used. Eagout of veal or lamb may be done in this manner. The following receipts to be done in a middle-sized iron saucepan. 98. Stewed JEels. — Put into a saucepan a teaspoonful of chopped onions, half a pint of melted butter, No. 410, one tea- spoonful of anchovy sauce, one of vinegar, and one teaspoonful of colouring. Cut up one pound of eels in pieces two inches long, rub them in a little flour and salt, put them in the pan, and stew for half an hour, and serve with some toasted bread round. A Jittle ale or wine may be used instead of vinegar, and the sauce ihould be thick. 99. Stewed Eels. No. 2. — Cut them as above, dip in flour, and partly fry them in fat a few minutes, and stew them as above, ind serve with toast. 100. JEels Stewed White. No. 3. — Cut up one pound, as before ; put them in the pan with half a pint of milk and three- quarters of a teaspoonful of salt, half of pepper, half an onion, in slices, and some sprigs of parsley. Stew gently for twenty minutes ; mix one ounce of butter with half an ounce of flour, 40 VAKIOUS DISHES IN THE IRON SAUCEPA put in your stewpan in small pieces, stir round gently, boil foi five minutes, or longer, if large, and serve. The juice of a lemon, or a little vinegar, is an improvement. Lampreys and weaver may be done the same. 101. Cod's Hard Hoe. — Tie a cod's roe in a cloth, place in a pan two quarts of water and two teaspoonfuls of salt ; put in the roe, boil gently for one hour, take it out, cut off as much as you require, put it in the dish, pour over parsley and butter, and serve. Or egg sauce, or plain, with a little butter and pepper. The remainder, when cold, may be cut into slices and semi- fried, as fish. 102. Cod's Sounds, Melt, and Frill. — Nothing is more de- licate than this dish. Boil thirty minutes in boiling salt and water. Dish it up, pour thick egg sauce over, or fennel sauce, or black butter, No. 425a. The fii'st-mentioned, if salted, rv*t be well soaked. Truly, my dear Eloise, I cannot but return you my very be*o thanks for the incessant inquiries you make as to the state of my health. You blame me in your last letter for having visited the small town cal CutleU should bo cut round, about thiee Indies in diameter, and i thick, done i My. 11 1. These may all . 7 previous to brcad-erum'. with either onion or eschalot ; by nibbing then there will be no perceptible taste, but a pungent ilavour; these can bo served with various made sauces, and stewed spinach, greens, peas anything, according to taste, remembering that that which pleases the eye will prove agreeable to the palate. 145. Pork Chops, semi-fried, without broad-crumbs, BH SS the mutton oV will require more time, and should be served with a mustard or sharp sauee. Mutton, veal, pork, '.u\<{ lamb, all took inviting, and are all equally good, when bread- crumbed and semi-fried, as above. \ 1st Lesson. Sausages and Kidneys, Se7)ii-fried. — Peel and chop nncahout four small onions, put one ounceof butter in the frying- pan, two ounces of bacon out in sliees, and a tablespoonful of chopped onions ; fry for live minutes, stuffing it with a spoon ; rat half a pound of sausages in half lengthways, place them in the pan, then out an ox kidney into thin sliees, omitting the fiard part ; put it in the centre of the pan, season with half a teaspooniul of salt and one saltspoonful of pepper ; Cry gently for live minutes, turning them. Take care they are not done too much, or they will be hard; throw a teaspooniul of ilavour over them, add one quartern of water ; simmer two minutes ; dish with kidneys in the middle and sausages round. Dripping, lard, or oil. may be used instead of butter, and a few small mushrooms is an improvement. Lesson. Kidneys alone. — Slice thin an ox kidney, put two ounces of butter into a frying-pan ; when hot, add two ounces of bacon, cut in thin dice, and the kidney; fry for five minutes, if over a brisk lire ; longer, if over a slow fire ; add a onful of flour, salt, and pepper, moisten with half a pint of Water, simmer a few minutes, stir round, and serve with or without crisp toasted bread round it: a little lemon is an improvement. 3rd Lesson. Mutton Kidneys, with Ale Sauee.— Cut six kidneys in two, remow r skin, cut them into slices: put two ounces of butter into a frying-pan; when very hot, put in the kidneys, and stk continually for about five minutes ; sprinkle MEAT Itf PBYING-PAN. 61 over a teaspoonful of Hour, a little salt and popper, and, i! hand}', a little parsley chopped fine ; moisten with a little water and four tablespoonfuls of ale ; thus it forms a thickish sauce. Lemon is an improvement, or wine in the place of ale, or a little vinegar, if preferred. 147. Calves' Liver, Semi-fried. — Cut the liver a quarter of an inch thick, the bacon the same, mix in a plate a tablespoonful of flour, one teaspoonful of salt, and the same of pepper, dip the liver into it; have ready the frying-pan, with sufficient fat or dripping, quite clear, as much as will cover the bottom of the pan a quarter of an inch; when very hot (which try as before directed for fish), put in the liver and bacon ; the bacon will be done first, which remove; the liver must be turned in five minutes^ when it is done remove it into a dish, and serve. 148. Another Way. — Take away nearly all the fat, then put in the pan a teaspoonful of chopped onions, the same of flour, stir till brown, then add some salt and pepper, a tablespoonful of vinegar, and a small teacupful of water, a little curry powder if handy; mix well together, and pour over the liver. Calves' Hearts, as we* as pig's and sheep's, &c. &c, may be done like liver, cut iu slices, with the exception, that either some currant-jelly, port wine, or a little ale or porter, or ketchup, may be added to the sauce ; it is also good bread- crumbed. 149. Lambs' Fry is sometimes to be had for a trifle ; you can purchase it from about threepence or fourpence per pound ; wash it in cold water ; for every pound put a quart of water ; put them in it for ten minutes to set ; take them out, lay them on a cloth ; then put in a frying-pan two ounces of butter or dripping, letting it get hot, then dip each piece of the fry in the folio w« ing mixture, and put in the pan, and fry gently : break an cgg n beat it well, add a teaspoonful of flour, which mix smooth, half a wineglass of either milk or water, a little salt and pepper may be put in this delicate batter. When your fry has obtained a nice gold colour, turn it ; when done, season with a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter of pepper, to every pound of fry. A few thopped oniona put La the pan with the meat is very nloe^ or a few mushrooms. Pigs' ehitlings. done as above, will be found very gootv, espe- cially if fried wif.h onions ; buy them ready cleaned, then before 62 MEAT IN FRYING-PAN. you fry them let tliem simmer in a saucepan, in salt and water for thirty minutes, or till tender ; drain them, and fry as above. Tripe may also be done the same. FOWLS. 150. — The motive of semi-frying food is to have it done quickly; therefore, to fry a whole fowl, or even half, is useless, as it could be cooked in a different way in the same time; but to semi-fry a fowl with the object of having it quickly placed on the table, in order to satisfy a good, and perhaps fastidious, appetite, it should be done in a similar way to that practised in Egypt some 3000 years since, and of late years for the great Napoleon — that is, cooked in oil. In France this dish is called " Poulet a la Marengo." It is related that the great conqueror, after having gained that celebrated victory eat three small chickens at one meal done in this way, and his appetite and taste was so good, and he approved of them so highly that he desired that they might always be served in the same wa} during the campaign. 151. — The fowl should be divided thus ; if just killed it should be plucked and drawn as quick as possible, or cooked whilst still warm ; it will then be tender ; if it has been long killed, the joints and pieces should be well beaten with a piece of wood, not to break the skin and bones, but to loosen the sinews. The legs should be first removed, then the wings, going close up to the breast ; then cut the belly in two ; by this there are eight pieces. They should be seasoned with pepper and salt ; for want of oil, one ounce of either butter, fat, or dripping should be put in the pan. If a young fowl, it will take from twelve to fifteen minutes ; the pieces should be turr ed several times ; when done serve plain, or put into the fat a glass of wine, some vinegar, or ketchup ; for want of wine add a little vinegar ; give it a boil up till half reduced ; season and pour into the dish, and serve. A few fried mushrooms are excellent with it; or six oysters, with their liquor, or tomata sauce, should be to go round as often as the agricultural lecturer, and teach the people how to cook the food which that person now en- deavours to make them cultivate. " Until this is done, this country will never emerge out of ih semi-barbarous state in which it is zt fres8nt." His lordship took a note ot the conversation, but sudden illne* prevented my ideas being carried out 72 SOYER S BAKING STEWlNG-PAtt. tlie top, seasoning each time ; pour tliree quarters of a pint of water Lock the lid, put in your oven, or send to the Laker's, for on hour and a half; when done shake the pot gently, that the gravy may mix with the potatoes and onions, and form a nice thick sauce. Skirt or any other part of beef is excellent done thus. Observe, Eloise, that this is the plain foundation of every receipt which I am going to send you, on that simple and effective style of cookery. I have omitted all seasoning but salt and pepper ; if onions are an objection omit them ; therefore take this as a guide for all kinds of meat, poultry, and even fish, which are very good done ui this way. 172. Another variety may be made, which gives a change • this is, to mix a quarter of a pound of flour with a little chopped suet, a little salt, a gill of water, to form a paste ; roll it out to cover the meat, so that it fits to the sides of the pan; then put the cover on as usual, and bake. A little dripping will do for the paste. You have often reproached me of liking to give varieties of season- ing ; in the above it is according to your own heart; but having done bo, let me give one according to my own liking, and though you say the majority of people are not fond of savoury cookery, and do not like any predominant flavour ; but I am certain they only require to try it two or three times, and they will like it. 173. — The variation of seasoning is very slight, to the above add only two onions ; four will give it a stronger flavour, and six for those fond of onions. These may be varied by the judicious use of the following spices — either two cloves, or one blade of mace, or six peppercorns, or a teaspoonful of powdered ginger. Or with the herbs, two small bay-leaves, two sprigs of fresh thyme, or some winter savory, or lemon thyme ; if dried, a little more should be used; two teaspoonfuls of chopped parsley may be employed. A little celery seed is also very good. All these are to be increased in proportion to the size and contents of the pan. 174. Leg of Beef. — Take two pounds of the leg — tiiat part which is full of sinew — cut as above, and season the same way ; add a pint of water, and give another hour in the oven : meat without bone is preferable; any part of the beef will do for this receipt. SOYEn's BAKIKG STEWING -PAN. 73 Or, instead of cutting the leg or any other part of the Least, the cheek may be put in whole, letting it weigh about four pounds. This process of cooking will make it very palatable and tender; to vary it, the meat may be larded, and a bunch of herbs (No. 451) added, also cloves, nutmeg, mace, or a little garlic. 175. Beef with Vegetables. — Peel two carrots, two turnips, two onions, cut in pieces, put some vegetables at the bottom, then the meat in centre ; season, and cover over with remaining vegetables ; add a few cloves, a pint of water, or half ale and half water ; put in slow oven for three hours, take off the fat, and serve. Four pounds of any inferior part of beef will eat tender done thus. 176. Ox Tail. — Cut them at the joint, although I prefel them sawed through the piece; have ready some chopped onions and a little herbs ; roll each piece in flour, place them carefully in the pan, with some of the onions and seasoning ; add a pint of water, bake three hours, take off the fat, and serve. 177. Ox Heart and Kidneys. — The heart does not enjoy a very high reputation. I mean not only with the wealthy, but with the laborious part of the population, in consequence of the difficulty experienced in cooking it properly. It is thus generally left on the hands of the butcher, and consequently sold cheap ; but I trust these receipts will occasion a change, and induce them to purchase those provisions which are now despised. 178. — Wash an ox heart in several waters, cut it in six pieces lengthways, like steak, lay a few slices of potatoes at the bottom of the pan, then a few slices of bacon, then the heart, then bacon again, and then potatoes over all ; a few slices of beef suet, instead of the bacon, if none handy ; it should be cut thin ; season as you fill up, add half a pint of water, bake one hoar, and serve. 179. — If a small heart, buy half an ox kidney, cut out the hard part, and divide it into small pieces, and mix it with the heart ; if you can get a cow-heel already boiled, which is the case in large towns, it may be added in pieces, omitting the bone. 180. Calves', Sheep's, Tigs, or Ox Heart, stewed wAofc** 1\ gOYER'S DAKTNG STEW1NG-PAIT. Fill a heart, as for roasting, with stuffing, No. 456 . Put in 5 four quart pan a piece of fat bacon half an inch thick, and on H the heart, the thick part downwards ; cut into slices some potatoes, carrots, turnips, and onions, and a piece of bacon cut in dice ; season it with three teaspoonfuls of salt and one o! pepper : fill up round the heart until the pan is full, put in a pint of water, and bake for two hours. A teaspoonful of sugar and three of browning may be added. 181. — Tongues, brains, and liver, ought to be set before putting in the pot. The tongue should be boiled for ten minutes, and then skinned. These may be done in the same way as the preceding. 182. — But supposing you have all these, and you wish to mix them together, then cut them into thin slices, leaving out the brain ; put them on a dish, and for every pound of meat season with one teaspoonful of salt and a quarter ditto of pepper, and two teaspoonfuls of flour ; then have one onion and half a pound of potatoes cut in slices to each pound of meat, and place in the pot as before, mixing the brain cut in pieces ; add half a pint of water to each pound of meat ; bake according to size. Layers of suet pudding may be used instead of potatoes, and cover it with paste. 183. Good Plain Family Irish Stew. — Take about two pounds of scrag or neck of mutton ; divide it into ten pieces, lay them in the pan ; cut eight large potatoes and four onions in slices, season with one teaspoonful and a half of pepper, and three of salt ; cover all with water ; put it into a slow oven for two hours, then stir it all up well, and dish up in deep dishes. If you add a little more water at the commencement, you can take out when half done, a nice cup of broth. The same simplified. — Put in a pan two pounds of meat as before, which lay at the bottom; cover them with eight whole onions, and these with twelve whole potatoes ; season as before ; cover over with water, and send to the oven for two hours. Almost any part of the sheep can be used for Irish stew. k gallon pan is required for this and the preceding receipt. ifiih O.v Tongue, Totted and Braized.— 1 send you thi; SOYEftS BAKING STEWIXG-PAN. 75 feceipt as a bonne bouche, it being a dish worthy a first-class picnic or the race- course. Take a tongue from the pickle, and trash it clean ; cut off a part of the rough pieces of the root, put a thick slice of bacon at the bottom of the pan, and over that a pound of lean beefsteak or veal, and then the tongue turned round to fit the pan ; have a cow-heel, parboiled and ready boned, place it on the tongue, and cover it with another slice of bacon, and a slice of beef or veal ; season with two teaspoonfuls of pepper, a little powdered ginger and cloves, one bay-leaf, one carrot sliced, and two onions sliced ; add two wineglassfuls of brandy or sherry, four of old ale, and one quart of water; cover well over, and put in a slow oven for three hours ; take off the cover, and put a piece of board with a weight on the top until cold, then the next day turn it out of the pan, which you can do by placing the pan in hot water. But should 3 r ou wish to use the tongue hot for dinner, take it out, and when done with it, put the remains in and press, as before described. The vegetables may be also pressed in with the meat or served hot round the tongue. The remains of pickled ox tongues are very nice, intermixed and placed in a pan, and pressed, when they will turn out like collared head. A tongue boiled in plain water will take about two hours. 185. Ox Tongues, Fresh and Pickled. — Put in the pan, as above, add two carrots, four turnips, four cloves, ten small dumplings, (see No. 349,) fill the pan with water, add either a little bay-leaf, thyme, or winter savory; stew in an oven for three hours, trim and dish up with vegetables, and dumplings round, making soup of the broth. For fresh ox tongue, proceed as above, adding three teaspoonfuls of salt. 186. Veal. — Take two pounds of the leg of veal, or meat from the shoulder, or the neck or breast, in fact any part, cut in pieces ; season it with one teaspoonful and a half of salt, and a half ot pepper, and add a quarter of a pound of bacon cut in slices. To vary the seasoning, use herbs, (No. 451 ; It will also be very good with some suet pudding, previously boiled in small calls, if you omit either potatoes or stuffing. The pieces of veal should be rolled in flour ; add half a pint of water, if with potatoes, and more, if pudding or stuffing; bake one hour and a half, and serve. Mushrooms may be added. 7q soyers baking stewing-pan. 187. Purchase six calves' tails, and after Laving had them trashed, cut them about two inches in length, and took them as above, with the addition of more vegetables, as carrots turnips, &c. They arc excellent and nutritious thus. 188. — J3rown Ragout of Veal. — Take two pounds of the breast, cnt it into rather small pieces, about the size of an egg, roll them well in flour, put some fat in the frying-pan, fry the meat until a nice brown, take it out, and then fry four onions, two turnips cut in large dice, and one carrot the same ; when brown take them out, put the veal and vegetables into pan, season with two teaspoonfuls of salt and one of pepper, add a pint of water, to which has been added four teaspoonfuls of browning; put into oven for one hour, skim the fat, shake the pan, and serve. A few herbs and a little ham or bacon is an im- provement. Beef, mutton, lamb, and pork may be done the same way. A teaspoonful of sugar is an improvement. 189. Fillet of Veal for an Extra J)inner. — A small fillet of veal, boned and stuff with No. 456; tie it up tight, put some fat into a fryingpan, about an inch deep; put in the fillet, fry gently until one side is brown, and then put in the otner side until brown; fry in the same pan some large button onions whole, some turnips and carrots, cut in pieces the size of eggs ; put the fillet into a pan, with a piece of fat bacon at the bottom; fill up round it with the vegetables; put another piece of bacon on the top, add some seasoning to the vege- tables, and a pint of water; put on the cover, so that the steam does not escape ; put it into a slow oven, giving a quarter of an hour for each pound weight. When served take out the fillet, put the gravy into a small basin, and skim off the fat ; pour the gravy over the veal, and either serve the vegetables round the fillet or separate. A little browning is an improve- ment. 190. The following is another favourite dish of mine : — It is to lard a calf's liver with about twenty pieces of bacon (see No. 450), put about a quarter of a pound of fat or dripping into a frying pan, fry for twenty minutes until of a nice brown colour, place it in the baking stew-pan, also fry a quarter of a pound oi hacon r.irt in dice, hventv large button onions, twenty pieces o/ SOYERS BAKING STEWING-PAN. 77 carrot, twenty of turnip ; when a nice colour throw two ounces of Hour over them, and stir ; three teaspoonfuls of salt, and a small one of pepper, two of sugar ; put all this into the pan, add three pints of hot coloured water No. 453 A, and a bunch of sweet herbs; shake the pan well, and place in oven for two hours ; skim the fat and serve. These preparations are for a large sized liver. Pig's, lamb's, and sheep's liver, is excellent done thus. You may place all the above ingredients in the baking pan without frying any; it will be very good, though not so savoury in flavour. 191. Deef-a-la-Modc. — Take a piece of the thick part of the rump of beef, about four pounds, not too fat ; take half a pound of fat bacon and a calf's foot ; cut the bacon into pieces about two inches long and half an inch square, lard the beef through with the bacon (see No. 450), place the beef in the pan, and also the foot, divided in two, and a bunch of sweet herbs, two middle- sized carrots, cut into squares, and twenty button onions, or four or six large ones, cut into slices ; add half a quartern of brandy, a teaspoonful of salt, half ditto of pepper, one pint of water, put the cover on the pan, to prevent the steam escaping, and send it to the baker's for three hours ; should it be done at home, turn the pan so that the heat is equal on all sides ; when done remove the fat from the top, put the beef in* a dish, with the foot on each side, and the carrots and onions round ; throw the gravy over ; take away the herbs. This, you may perceive, is a most exquisite dish, will keep good many days in winter, and five or six in summer. It is good cold. 192. The same plainer. — Proceed as above, adding half a pint of old ale instead of the brandy, or a wineglass of vinegar and an ox-foot instead of a calf's-foot. Any piece of the fleshy part of the ox is good done so. 193. The same, to be eaten cold. — Cut the beef into square pieces, of a quarter of a pound each, cut ten pieces of lean bacon three inches long, have a cowheel already boiled in about two quarts of water, with two onions, pepper and salt, and a little vinegar ; take the cowheel and remove all the bones, and place it, with the meat and bacon, in the pan, with the liquor in which the heel was boiled, two carrots cut into small dice, ten gherkins cut into slices, and s^t* to the oven for three hours \ take off the 78 soger's baking stewing-pan. rover, and place a flat piece of board on the top of the meat, with a heavy weight, so as to make it firm ; and when cold use it. It is very good for breakfast. To remove it from the pan place the pan in hot water for a few minutes, and turn it over ; it will come out easily, and cut like brawn, or it may be cut from the pan. 194. Leg, Breast, Scrag, and Head of Lamb. — These may nil be done as follows : — Put it into a gallon pan, with one carrot, two turnips, one leek, cut in thick slices, thirty young button onions whole, three teaspoonfuls of salt and one of pepper, cover with water, and set it on the fire, or in your oven for one hour ; at the end of one hour put in one pint of peas, a little green mint, and a teaspoonful of sugar ; set it by the side of the fire or in the oven for half an hour longer, and serve. This is for a leg or joint of five pounds weight; for a larger one take a little longer time. A bunch of parsley and sweet-herbs may be added, but should be removed when served. The flavour is exquisite, and may be served with vegetable or with- out, as liked, but then the broth should be strained, and the vegetables served separate, or the broth made into spring or other soups. 195. TorTc. — Any part, not too fat, is exceedingly good done in this" way : Cut two pounds in slices, rather large and thin, season with salt and pepper, then add a few slices of fat, then some slices of potatoes, then pork and then potatoes, until all is in ; add half a pint of water. Bake one hour and a half. 196. Another way with Apple. — Cut the pork in thick pieces, peel two baking apples, four onions, and eight potatoes, cut them in slices, season with pepper and salt, and, if liked, a little powdered sage, intermix the vegetables, lay the slices and the vegetables together, half a pint of water, or enough to cover it. Bake two hours and serve. 197. Another, simpler. — When in a great hurry proceed thus : •—Put in a dish two pounds of pork in slices, one onion, one pound of potatoes, also sliced ; two teaspoonfuls of salt, half of pepper, one of flour ; mix all well together, pat it in the pan with half a pint of water. Bake one hour and a half. A little bone may be used with the meat. 193. Salt Pork with Peas, — Take two pounds of the bell} soyer's BAKING BTEWHTG-l IK. 79 of pork, eut into large dice, wash half a pint of split peas, put them into a three-quart pan, with some pepper, and half a carrot cut in small pieces, fill it up with cold water, send it to the oven for two hours, stir up the peas well before serving. A few vegetables may be introduced. Rice may be used instead of peas. 199. Salt Pork may be used thus : Take a four-quart pan, cut up the pork and some greens, remove the stalk, slice them, uid also add four onions sliced, four cloves, and one teaspoonful of pepper ; press it well down ; put over it a quarter of a pound of dripping, add a pint of water, and stew ior three hours ; a little salt may be added if the pork is not salt enough ; it will make an excellent soup if filled up with water half an hour previous to using. Eed cabbage may also be used, but first boiled for ten minutes in plain water ; then add half a pint of vinegar and twelve peppercorns, if handy. 200. Grreen Peas and Pork. — Put a piece of salt pork, about two pounds, into pan, with a quart of peas ; fill up with water, add two teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, one of sugar, two onions ; bake for three hours. Salt beef is also good ; a little mint may be added. Three pints of large peas alone, with a little dripping, is good as above. 201. Cabbage and Pork. — Cut two good Savoy cabbages in thin slices, wash them, put half in pan, then a piece of pork about two pounds, or either ham, bacon, or salt beef; season as foregoing receipt, add the remainder of the cabbage ; season again ; add, if you have it, four cloves, or pepper corns, four onions, and a bunch of sweet herbs : do not fill it with water* to the brim, or it will boil over. Eed cabbage may be used the same way, only adding half a pint of vinegar, and if beef, two ounces of dripping. 202. Haricot beans and other pulse may be done precisely the same way. In fact, all dried pulse may be here used, and I cannot too strongly recommend both the dried haricot beans and lentils. I have also latterly tried the dried green pea, well soaked for twenty hours, and dressed as haricots and lentils. 1 find that one pint absorbs two quarts of water. It makes an agreeable as well as economical food. 80 gOYERS BAKING STEWING-PAK. 203. Beef and Boric. — Semi- Carthusian Fashion. — Sausage^ cerrelas, saveloys, beef sausages, knuckles of ham, and salted pig's feet and tongue, which are daily to be obtained in London, may be dressed in this way : Buy two good savoys or white cabbages, cut them in four, take out the hard stalk, and boil them for ten minutes in water ; place them in a dish to drain ; cut the quarters vgain into four, lay some at the bottom of the pan, then a feu sausages and saveloys, season with salt and pepper, and the a fill up the pan; then add two ounces of dripping or suet, half a pint of water, bake one hour and a half, and serve with cabbage under, and sausages on the top. Eed cabbage with saveloys are preferable ; then add one gill of vinegar, a few peppercorns ; stew them longer, and serve as above. I have tried with raw cabbage ; it is not bad, and saves time. Two or three onions sliced may be added, or one large Spanish onion. This receipt will do for pig's feet, knuckles of ham, trimmings of ham or pork, a piece of cooked brisket of beef, which is generally sold underdone, in which case the cabbage should be done first. Sheeps' and pigs' tongues are very good done in this way, and they make a cheap and wholesome meal. 204. Large Dutch Babbits. — Put into a one gallon pan a rabbit, cut into about eighteen or twenty pieces; peel eight onions, twenty potatoes cut into thin slices ; also half a pound of bacon cut into dice, season with salt and pepper, then place the meat and potatoes in layers, add nearly a pint of water ; cover over and bake two hours ; shake the pan round and serve. 205. Curry Babbits. — Proceed as above; only add to the water two teaspoonfuls of curry powder; let it well mix, or season with it at the same time as the other seasoning. The same may be done with rice instead of potatoes, but use two quarts of water to every pound of rice. One pound of good rice ought to weigh five pounds when boiled. 206. Blain Babbit, Chickens, or Pigeons for Invalids. — The rabbit should be cut into nice pieces; the chicken in quarters ; the pigeons into halves ; place it in a two-quart pan, SEE! -ROASTING IN BAKING STEWJNO-PAto. 81 with a quarter of a pound of bacon cut in dice, a little salt and pepper ; a few sprigs of parsley, and half a pint of water, if the pan is not quite full ; fill up with some small pieces of veal ; put a plain paste over all, No. 317 ; put cover close over, and bake one hour. Skim the fat off, and serve. HOW TO USE THE PAN FOR SEMI-ROASTING. The deep tin dish at the bottom of the pan is to contain either pudding, gravy, or vegetables, the grating above is to lay any meat, poultry, fish, or game on, you wish to cook by this process. 207. Bibs of Beef semi-roasted. — Purchase two ribs of beef, Done them, then season the interior of the meat with salt and pepper; roll the meat round like a cheese, using a piece of string or a skewer to keep it in that position ; make a quart of batter, as No. 462 \ put it in your pan, which previously well grease ; put the grating over, and lay your meat on it, surround- ing it with potatoes either whole or cut ; allowing from twelve to fifteen minutes for each pound of meat, according to the state of the oven. Dish up the beef with the potatoes round, and serve the pudding in the tin, or turn it out on a dish. The beef may be stuffed with stuffing, No. 456. Nothing is more objectionable to me than to see salt put on the top of a roast joint, and water poured over to make the gravy. The only way to remedy this is to put a gill of boiling water and a little salt on the hot dish you intend putting the meat on, turning the joint in it once during the interval of a minute ; and, whilst carving, the juice from the meat will mingle with it and make a good gravy. Half a teaspoonful of colouring, much improves its appearance. This is applicable to all roasted or semi-roasted joints. For large ribs of beef or sirloins, you can put the salt on the tones at the back of the joint, and pour half a pint of boiling water over ; not however disturbing the meat. Brown gravy, No. 2, or broth, No. 1, will be found pre- ferable to either of the above. 208. Mutton semi-roasted. — Half a leg of mutton, about .our pounds, potatoes and pudding, if liked, under, will take about one hour. Shoulder the same. 209. Pork semi-roasted. — Place in the bottom four tipples, peeled, four onions sliced, and potatoes, and over that a joint of £a SEMI-KOASTING IN BAKING STEW1NG-Pa*T. pork, rubbed with salt and pepper; sprinkle a little sage; add aalf a pint of water in the pan : bake for two hours. For a change, pork should be purchased the day before usinsj covering it all over with salt ; and then scrape it well before cook- ing it, makes it eat short and savoury. 210. Lamb semi-roasted. — Boil some spinach in salt and water, drain it well, and chop it up; put it in the pan, sea- soned with salt and pepper; put potatoes over the grating, and then the joint of lamb ; small ribs or shoulder will take an hour ; leg, one hour and thirty minutes. Dish it up with the spinach separate, the fat having been removed from it. Greens of any kind may be done in the same manner, particularly the young leaf of the white beet, which is an excellent substitute for spinach, or even chopped nettles: these are also good under pork, real, or beef, as also is a Yorkshire pudding, as at ribs of beef, No. 207. 211. Poultry femi-roasted. — Almost any kind of vegetables, such as carrots, turnips, onions, potatoes, celery, or mushrooms, may be put raw in the pan and cooked under poultry, as well as cabbage, spinach, or greens, previously boiled and chopped. 1st Lesson. — Pluck, draw, and stuff a middle-sized fowl ; peel and cut in middling- sized pieces about half a pound of carrots, the same of turnips ; place them in the pan with half a pint of water, half a teaspoonful of salt, one of sugar, and half of pepper ; put the grating over, placing the fowl on it, surrounding it with peeled potatoes, season a little more, bake for an hour, and serve ; also rub a little butter or fat over the breast, or cover it with a few slices of bacon ; a little colouring may be added to the gravy. This receipt is applicable to all kinds of birds, game, or poultry, allowing about ten minutes baking to every pound of large poultry or game, and the smaller ones in proportion. 212. Rabbits, stuffed, put sliced onions in the bottom of the pan. if liked, or boiled rice, previously seasoned, and a bit of butter, &c. ; put half a pint of water ; bake thirty-five or fifty minutes, according to size, and serve. If any joint happens to be too fat, it will not do to put a Yorkshire pudding under, as the fat would prevent it setting but if either greens, boiled rice, or potatoes, are added, you will be able to press the fat off with the back of a spoon, or a plate, or the vegetable presser, (see Appendix,) and serve separately. FOYER'S BAKING STEWING- PAN. 83 To semi-roast a Joint with gravy only. — Pat in th^ pari hall a pint of water, together with half a teaspoonful of salt, halt that of pepper. When done, take off the fat, add a little colour* ing, pour under the joint, and serve. USEFUL HINTS ON THE PIG. Once or twice a year every cottager ought to kill a pig. If a pig is washed and kept clean, it softens the skin and allows it to expand ; in fact, a pig thus treated comes much quicker round ; it is proved that a pig at fourteen months, kept clean, is equal to one at eighteen which is not attended to. The same day some of the liver may be fried, but the rest can be used in the pan as follows : — 213. Cut it into large dice; put two ounces of fat or dripping into frying-pan, cut up a quarter of a pound of bacon into small dice, fry them for five minutes, and then shake over a teaspoonful of flour, put in the liver, with one teaspoonful of salt, half ditto of pepper, fry it for five minutes, add a gill of water, keep stirring, and put it into pan, with a pound of turnips cut in small dice, four onions cut in four, and half a pint of boiling water ; put into a slow oven for fiity minutes, and then serve with toasted sippets round the dish. A bunch of herbs, No. 451, may be added. Veal, sheeps', lambs', and ox liver, and kidneys, may all be done the same ^ray ; less time for lamb and more for ox ; any other vegetables may be used, and particularly mushrooms. 214. Veal. — Take six pounds of veal usually used for roasting, rub it with salt, put half a pint of water in the tin, and potatoes above, and then the veal ; it will take two hours. When it is served, take off the fat from the gravy in the pan, and pour over the veal, reserving the fat for puddings. A piece of bacon and greens should be boiled at home, or a small piece of bacon may be placed with the potatoes ; dish the veal with the potatoes, and bacon round it or separate ; add a little colouring to gravy. A piece of veal stuffed may be roasted thus. Or, for gravy, make melted butter No. 410, with four teaspoonfuls of Harvey 'ivace, or ketchup, and pour it over. 215. Toad in the Hole. — No. 1. — May be made in either a Daking-dish, pie-dish, or tin. Get about two pounds of trimmings if either beef, mutton, veal, or lamb, not * °o fat, and cut them 84 SOYER^S BAKING STEVv r ING-PAK. into pieces, each about the size of a small egg ; season with salt and pepper, make about two quarts of batter, second class j grease the pan well, put in the meat and batter, and place in a slow oven for nearly two hours, and serve hot. No. 2, with Potatoes. — Proceed as before. When the pan is ready put about two pounds of previously boiled potatoes, cut in slices, and bake as before. No. 3, with Peas. — Proceed as before, only adding about one quart of good green peas, previously boiled; broad beans maybe used the same way. No. 4. — Eemains of cooked meat may be done the same way, but it will take less time to cook. No. 5. — Calves', or any brains, previously parboiled iu water, and the skin removed, well seasoned with pepper and salt, and a few slices of bacon added to the batter, make a very delicate dish. No. 6. — Six larks or twelve sparrows, with a slice of bacon skewered round each, with the batter, and put into the oven for two hours. No. 7. — Ox cheek and sheeps' heads, previously cooked and nicely seasoned, with the addition of a little chopped onious added 'to the batter, is an economical dish. A few slices of cooked potatoes may be added. No. 8. — Truss a rabbit for roasting, make a stuffing with the liver, &c, chopped up, bread-crumbs, beef-suet, and seasoning ; stuff the rabbit ; lay on the bottom of the pan a thick slice of fat bacon, and over that a slice, one inch thick, of beefsteak, and then the rabbit, to which add two quarts of batter ; place in the oven for two horns, and serve hot. This is enough for a large family. The rabbit may be cut in pieces; boiled cauliflower may be added. No. 9. — Remains of previously cooked hare may be done in the same way, with some currant-jolly in the stuffing. No. 10. — A blade-bone of pork, two onions, cut in slices, and four potatoes sliced, pepper and salt, and one quart of batter put over them j ulace in the oven one hour, and serve hot. 8CYEKS BAKItfG STEWING- PAN. BO No. 11. — Remains of salt pork, or any roast meat, may all U done in this way, and varied according to the taste of the partaker, .Remains of any kind of fish may also be done thus, with previously boiled potatoes. 216. Jugged Hare. — Cut a small hare into pieces about the size of eggs, cut half a pound of bacon into dice not too small, lay both on a dish, mix together three teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, four of flour, three of chopped onions, one of powdered thyme and bay-leaf, four cloves, and a quarter of a nutmeg, grated ; rub the hare and bacon with these ; place them in the pan. Having saved the blood, chop up the liver and mix with it, add to it a wineglass of brandy, or two of port or sherry, or one of vinegar, or half a pint of ale, stout, or porter, and a pint of water ; put this in the pan, and cover over with pudding-paste No. 319 ; put on the cover ; shake the whole well to make it mix; and bake for three hours, if an old hare ; if a young one two hours. It is equally as good cold as hot. If eaten hot, a little currant- jelly should be served with it. Some stuffing No. 456, made into little balls, can be added with advantage, or even a few suet balls, and two tablespoonfuls of colouring ; mix with the water. It can be done plainer, with Bait and pepp"? ^nd water only ; or twenty small onions and eight potatoes, cut i* Vices, maybe added, or even mushrooms may be put in. 217. Jugged Hare, Marinaded. — It should be cut as above, and put into a bowl, with half water and half vinegar to cover it ; four teaspoonfuls of salt and one of pepper, four of brown sugar, two onions cut in slices, a little thyme, a bay-leaf, cloves, peppercorns ; turn them now and then for four days, and cook as above, with the marinade in. 218. How to cook all kinds of Fish in Baking Slew-pan, •—Take six pounds of any fish, cut it crossways, two inches thick, put them in the pan, with salt, pepper, chopped onions ; fill it up ; well intermix the seasoning ; when full, put in a basin four ©unces of flour, which mix with a quart of water, which pour over, shake the pot, well cover it, bake two hours in rather a hot sven ; seasoning to be four teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, fcwo onions, and chopped parsley ; onions may be omitted, but us« fcfo'l* a*wL mixed spice. 8G soyer's baking stewing-pan. Halibut, hake, ling, conger, cod, pike, carp, tench, perch, and piper may be done the same way. Kice may be added in the following way : — A pound of pre- viously boiled rice, two quarts of milk, a little sugar and salt, two ounces of butter, a squeeze of lemon, and put into the pan with the fish. The addition of a few spoonfuls of fish sauce will greatly vary this dish. When done serve, without breaking the piece, if possible. 219. Pieces of Fish. — For a two-quart pan, cut four mackerel in three pieces each, which roll in flour, place them in rows in the pan, two teaspoonfuls of salt and a half pepper, two teaspoonfuls of chopped onions ; fennel or parsley may be added ; put in two gills of water, place cover over, bake one hour in a hot oven, and serve, having first taken off the oil from the top. 220. To Pickle Mackerel and Herrings in the Balcing- pan. — When these fish are plentiful they may be done as follows, and will be found to keep and eat admirably well : — Cut the mackerel into three pieces, enough to fill the one- gallon pan, lay some at the bottom and season, and continue thus until full ; the seasoning should be four teaspoonfuls of salt, two of pepper, ten peppercorns, four onions sliced, a handful of parsley, chopped ; add over all one quart of vinegar and a pint of water ; place the cover over, and bake slowly for two hours ; some sweet herbs or a bay-leaf may be added. 221. Herrings, pilchards, and sprats can be done as above, only a little variation to the seasoning and the time of cooking, according to the size ; when quite cold pour some oil or lard on the top ; put the cover on, and keep out the air as much as possible, and they will keep a long time. 222. Halibut, hake, ling, conger eel, plaice, gurnet, codlings, sturgeons, and haddock, may all be pickled as above. Cut halibut one inch thick and three inches in length ; place them at the bottom of the pan ; season over as before, and one tea- spoonful of ground ginger and sweet herbs. 223. Baked Eels. — Cut several eels in pieces of three inches long, roll them in fkns?, put them in the two-quart pan, season with soyer's baking stewing-pan. bV fait, pepper, chopped onions, a little thyme ; continue until full, add a glass of sherry, half a pint of water, cover over with some crust, either pie or pudding, put on the lid, and bake one hour. Seasoning, two teaspoonfuls of salt, half of pepper, and two of chopped onions. Take the oil off, and serve. 224 A Piece of Beef stewed in Baking Part.— Get three wing ribs of beef, bone them, season with salt and pepper on each side ; to vary the flavour, chopped parsley and a little spice may be added, or even chopped onions ; roll it round, and fasten it with string ; rub more salt on it, and place it in the pan ; send it to the baker's ; four pounds will take one hour. This is the best part to bone, but most other pieces may be used. Stuff by making an incision in the lean part, and binding it up with string. 225. — If you wish a Yorkshire pudding and potatoes to be baked at the same time, they may be placed in it, and when it comes home all will be found excellent. Instead of the gratings in the pan, it may be divided in two, one for pudding and tkfc other for potatoes. All joints may be done the same way. 226. To Boil Meat in Pan.— Spice Beef.— Take four pound, of the thick ribs of beef, or any part, put in the pan, with a pint of water, a teaspoonful of allspice, two of salt, two bayleaves, two eschalots, or a little garlic ; stew three hours, either in oven or on the fire, keeping the cover well closed ; half an hour before being done add a teacupful of the raspings of bread, half a pint &f vinegar, two teaspoonfuls of sugar, simmer, dish up, and sauca over. 82 Salt Meat. — To plain-boil this in the oven, which can be done when no fire is required at home, put six pounds of sal; beef into a six-quart pan, with four whole parsnips, two large carrots, and six dumplings; send them to the oven for two hours ; dish up the meat with the vegetables, and dumplings •ound. The liquor can be saved and made into soup ; the Tegetables can be cut in two. All kinds of salt meat can be done the same. If the broth \>e too salt add some water, and use for pea-soup. G £8 ON ROASTING. ON ROASTING. My DEAR Eloise,— My last letter you must have misunderstood. I did not mean that roasting before the fire should be entirely done away with, but that, on the score of economy, it should not be practised in the cottage, but that my new plan of semi-roasting should be followed. I was the more particularly led to these remarks, from having, last Sunday, immediately after church, visited several colliers' cottages belonging to a Mr. Pope, close to this place. My motive for doing so was to see the economy of the cottage, as well as the kind of food they had for dinner. The first I went into had a piece of the belly or flap of beef, just taken down from a dangle, having been roasted. It was lying in the dripping pan, and was a great deal over done ; in fact, dried. Noticing, in the course of conversation, that the fir 6 was spoiling it still more, I took a plate from the table, and placed it against it, so that it should not burn. The old lady noticed my pro- ceeding, and asked me if I was going to have a bit of dinner with them ? " No, thank you, my dear madam/' replied I. " Then let me take away the plate, as it will spoil our dinner." " How do vou make that out?" I asked. "Well, the fat is not yet half out of the meat, and my Thomas will not eat fat, unless it is dripping in the crust of pies or puddings." I then perceived that the meat was, in their estimation, a second consideration, and that they paid the price of beef for the fat, paying eightpence per pound for the meat, when they could get the fat at fivepence. There was scarcely any nutriment left in the meat — that which weighed five pounds before roasting, weighing hardly three pounds when done. There were seven to dine off it — the grandmother, the two parents, and four children. There was, besides, a few potatoes galloping on the fire — no other vegetable, and no puddings or sweets for the children, but excellent home-made bread, and not bad small beer. You may now perceive that some little improvement in this style of cookery would be an immense saving to these cottagers, and out of the three Bhillings and fourpence they paid for the beef, if done in the pan, with a pudding and potatoes under, and the meat not quite so fat, they would have got a good dinner and plenty for the next day, either hot or cold. If they wanted dripping, they could get fat at four or fivepence, instead of eightpence, and prepare it as No. 464c. It will keep for a long time, without turning sour. I visited, immediately after, several other of the cottages, in whick I found steaks cooked dry, indeed, some half burnt, chumps of mutton half done, hdJ£ legs of mutton neither boiled or baked ; in one a sheep's head baked, and very nicely done, with potatoes round it, which was very inviting ; there was also suet dumplings for the children, ON ROASTmi*. 89 with treacle over. This cottage was cleaner than any of the others, and the children were neatly dressed, and about to change their costume, in order to do full justice to the treacle dumplings. In giving those rosy-cheeked urchins a few pence, I retired much grati- fied by my visit to these antediluvian workmen, who pass one-third Df their life in the bowels of the earth. You will perceive from what I have said, that to the artisan, labourer, and even the small tradesman, the old mode of roasting, which comes to us from Homeric ages and primitive times, is an extra- vagant and wasteful mode of cooking, and the sooner it is reformed the better. Though it is preferable to meat done in a baker's oven, if well attended to. But first let me add one more remark on the experience of that day. Returning to the Normanton Hotel to dinner, we had a beau- tiful dish of greens; and what do you think those greens were? Green young nettles, which I had asked the gardener to gather for me the day previous, and in less than half an hour we had a basket full. I picked them with gloves, but he made a grasp at a large quantity, and I found that they did not prick him. He got them as fast as a monkey could get chestnuts out of hot cinders. The cook dressed them, according to my directions, exactly like spinach, and most who ate of them thought they were spinach, only rather too hot of pepper, which is their peculiar nature. I found that they are known in this part of the country as being good and wholesome in the spring ; but because the people can have them for nothing, they will not partake of them ; like the water- cresses, that rot in every clear stream in the neighbourhood. I intend to make another trial or so on the nettles, which I will forward to you. HOW TO ROAST. Having-, thus far, given you some of my experience as regards roasting, I will, in as few words as possible, describe the simple plan of roasting before the fire, which, I must again repeat, is far from being economical. The artisan requires as much nourishment as possible, and should not pay extravagantly for fancy joints, or those called the best, because most in vogue for roasting. Let the wealthy pay for their taste, as they do for their Raphaels, Rubens, and Murillos ; it is no reason, because they do so, that a labouring man should imitate them, and because one has a leg of mutton, the other should likewise have one. This very day I have seen, in Nottingham market, ali the best joints sold by the butchers, and nothing but tho necks of mutton and the coarse pieces of beef left, which, they tell me, hang for days and days, lessening both quality and quantity, and then are sold at twopence or threepence per pound. This causes ♦he joints most in vogue to be dear, whilst there is auitc as rnucr. 90 Off THE ECONOMY OF ROASTING BY GAS* nourishment in proportion in these sold at half the price when cooked fresh. I must here, however, describe the proper system of roasting cither before the fire or by gas (see note). And as an invariable rule. all dark meats, such as beef and mutton, should be put down to a sharp fire for at least fifteen minutes, until the outside has a coating of osmazome or gravy, then remove it back, and let it do gently. Lamb, veal, and pork, if young and tender, should be done at a moderate fire. Veal even should be covered with paper. Very rich meat, if covered with paper, does not require basting Fowls, &c., should be placed close to the fire, to set the skin, and in about ten minutes rubbed over with a small piece of butter, pressed in a spoon. Roast meats should be dredged with flour, just at the time when the gravy begins to appear; the flour absorbs it, and forms a coating which prevents any more coming out. Hares and small game the same. COTTAGE ROASTING. In the first place, the fire must be made up, and cleared from ashes. Place before it the dripping-pan, and from above the fire, suspend from a hook a piece of worsted thread, sufficiently strong to bear the joint, and a hook suspended at the end. Have a piece of stick forked at one end, which place against the mantle-piece, so that Note. ON THE COMFORT AND ECONOMY OF ROASTING BY GAS, WHERE IT CAN BE PROCURED. "Experiment made at the 'Royal Naval School, Greenwich Hospital^ by M. Soyer. Two interesting trials have taken place at the above establishment with an apparatus manufactured by Messrs. Smith and Phillips, patentees, of Skinner-street, Snow-hill, under the superintendence oi M. Soyer, which in their results finally determine the question on the merits and economy of roasting by gas. The result of the first trial, which took place on the 8th inst., was, that 36 legs of mutton, weighing 288 lbs., were roasted at a cost of Is. 2d. In order to arrive at more positive results in regard to its economy a second trial was deemed requisite, which took place on the lltt inst., when equal weights of mutton were cooked. Twenty-three joints, weighing 184 lbs., were roasted by gas, at a cost of 10 \d. t *ith gas supplied at 4s. per 1000 feet. When cooked, the above weight mnar v "as found to weigh 145 lbs., dripping 19 lbs., and COTTAGE ROASTING. 91 it keeps the thread at a sufficient distance from the fire. By having two pieces of stick, the distances can be easily managed. Twist the worsted; put on the joint; give it a sufficient distance from the fire. This is quite equal to either a smoke or bottle-jack for cottage use. Every cottage should have a moveable piece of iron or steel screwed on the mantel-piece, with teeth fixed in it, so as to be able to hang the joint at any distance from the fire. See Appendix, at end of book. TIME TABLE FOR ROASTING. 228. Ten pounds of beef will take from two hours to two hours and a half roasting, eighteen inches from a good fire. Six pounds one hour and a quarter to one hour and a half, fourteen inches from the fire. Three ribs of beef, boned and rolled (see 'No. 207), well tied round with paper, will take two hours and a half, eighteen inches from the fire, and only baste once. If beef is very fat, it does not require basting ; if very lean, tie it up in greasy paper, and baste well. 229. Eight pounds of veal will take from one hour and a half gravy, or osmazome, 2| lbs., thus showing the actual loss to be 18J lbs. Twenty-three joints of mutton were cooked in the usual way, as adopted at the institution, namely, in one of Count Rom- ford's ovens, hitherto considered the most economical way of roasting. When put in they weighed 184 lbs., when done 132 lbs., dripping 18 lbs., gravy none, thus showing a loss of 34 lbs. The coke con- Burned in this oven was 102 lbs., coal 30 lbs., thus proving the great economy of gas over the oven by a saving of 13 lbs. of meat, 1 lb. of dripping, 2 J lbs. of gravy. The value of the saving is as follows : — Meat at 6d. per lb., 6s. 6d.; dripping at 5d. per lb., 5d., and gravy at Is. 6d. per lb., 4s. l\d., making a total of lis. 0\d. The experiments took place before the governor, Sir C. Adam, and lady, Sir J. Liddle, M.D., Lieut. Rouse, general superintendent, Lieut. Monk, Messrs. Lee and Seville, inspector of works, who ex- pressed their admiration at the cleanliness and simplicity of the apparatus. In order to show the advantage of the system in all its branches, rump steak was broiled by M. Soyer, before the company present, who partook of it, and who declared it was perfection- and free from ill odour. — Mechanics' Magazine, d2 U0TTAG3 ROASTING. to two hours, eighteen inches from the fire : if stuffed, at leas* two hours. Chump, or loin and kidneys, of four pounds, will take one houl and a quarter ; baste well. Six pounds of breast one hour, twelves inches from the fire. Six pounds of the shoulder or neck the same. Calf s heart, stuffed and tied up in paper, three quarters of an hoar. 230. Mutton (leg of eight pounds), will take one hour and a half, eighteen inches from the fire. Saddle, ten pounds, one hour and a quarter to one hour and a half, eighteen inches, measuring from the flat surface. Shoulder, one hour and a half. Loin, one hour and a half. Breast, three quarters of an hour. "Neck, one hour. 231. Lamb, according to size, but in the same proportion less than mutton, but ought always to be well done, and placed nearer the fire ; if a good fire about fifteen inches from it. Pork should be well done. Leg of six pounds, with skin over, two hours, eighteen inches from the fire. Loin of the same, one hour. Neck, the same weight, one hour and three-quarters. Pork rubbed with salt the night previous, and then scraped before roasting, improves the flavour. In roasting of beef, mutton, lamb, pork, and poultry, place a dripping-pan under the meat, with a little clear dripping or fat, which should be very hot when the meat is basted. A quarter of an hour before serving add half a pint of water to the fat in the dripping-pan ; dredge the meat with flour and salt. When the meat is dished up, pour the contents of the pan into a basin, straining it through a gauze sieve kept on purpose ; remove all the fat, add a little colouring and salt to the gravy, and pour it into the dish under the meat. Veal and poultry should have half the quantity of water put in the pan, and that, when strained, added to half a pint of thick melted butter, adding two teaspoon fuls of any sauc fol flavour, as Harvey's, Soyer's, or ketchup, &e. Sage and onions to be served with pork* ON BAKING MEAT IN OVEN, 03 Mint swce with lamb. Currant -jelly with mutton. 232. Roasting of Poultry. — I proceed thus : Hang it up with worsted, about ten inches from the fire, let it hang for ten minutes to set the skin, then press into a wooden spoon a piece of butter or hard dripping ; when the skin is very hot rub it over with the fat in the spoon until all is melted, then draw it back to about twelve inches : a good sized fowl will take three quarters of an hour, chicken twenty minutes, middle-sized goose one hour, turkey, fourteen pounds, two hours and a half ; hare, large, one hour and a half, if very young three quarters of an hour. Never baste them, but dredge all, after having well rubbed them over with butter, as for fowls. Small game should be placed nearer the fire. I always stuff both poultry and game with stuffing No. 456, and make the gravy as for the joints. Apple sauce with goose. Currant jelly for hare. Fried bread-crumbs with grouse. Bread sauce with partridge and pheasant. ON MEAT IN BAKER'S OVEN. Though tlfis system of cooking meat is far from receiving my appro- bation, especially on the score of economy, still, it would be very ridiculous on our part, Eloise, to think that we should be able entirely to reform this semi-barbarian method of spoiling food. No; it must be a work of time that will prevent small folk from running to the bailor's on Sunday with either their legs or shoulders under their arms. The reason why they have recourse to such a process is at once simple and easily explained: first of all, it gives them no trouble, and hardly any of them study economy, so long as the dinner will cook itself, though, in company with a score or two oi other joints, perhaps no two being of the same size or quality. How can a baker, even one of the most conscientious of that useful class of individuals, be answerable for the proper cooking of this awkward squad, if such we may term it. How also can he prevent the potatoes galavanting from one dish to another, or even joints changing dishes, and by mistake, going to the wrong home — impos- sible ! Is he to be answerable if an eel crawls out of Mrs. Arm- strong's pie (having been put in whole), and, after cooking, being found reposing under one of Mrs. Smith's ribs ? or can he prevent Mrs, Jenkins's cod's head staring a neighbouring pig's face out of 9* ON BAKING MEAT IK OVEN. countenance ? No more would he be able to obviate the above evils, than he could disentangle the fragrance which emanates from each homely volcano, forming, as it does, an aerial coating of osmazoma under the same roof. Moral. Is it not more easy for a mother to nurse her own child, than having to take charge of the whole of her neighbours' children? therefore, if every housewife would cook her little family dinner at home, instead of entrusting it to the nursing care of a baker's oven, ghe would, by so doing, though at the sacrifice of a little time, save both nutriment and money. A FEW NEW AND USEFUL HINTS ON BAKING MEAT. If we, Eloise, cannot entirely reform the evils caused by the above- described system, I feel myself in duty bound to give a few hints on the subject of ameliorating this wasteful method of cooking, which will tend both to economize and vary the flavour, as well as the sub- stance, of any dish that might be doomed to undergo this ordeal. First of all, I would refer you to such receipts on semi-roasting joints, such as beef, veal, mutton, pork, and lamb, done in the baking- stewing-pan, and proceed in this instance precisely the same. In respect to vegetables, puddings, rice, &c. &c., being anxious that every person should partake of a portion of vegetation with their daily food, independent of potatoes, I have tried all the following receipts, which I beg to forward you, feeling confident they will prove agr-ae^^e to our readers' palate, as well as conducive to their health. AN IMPROVED BAKING-DISH. (For draining of ivhich see Appendix at end of book.) I beg to inform you that I have had made, at a very trifling expense, an improved baking-dish. Its principles are as follows : on the rim of the dish, I have attached a moveable false grating of wire, to the middle of which is fixed a trivet, three inches in height. I then put the pudding at the bottom of the dish, then put in the grating, on which I place the potatoes ; then on the trivet I put the meat. By tins means the surplus fat, which would otherwise fall in the pudding and prevent its setting, descends on the potatoes, making them deli- cate and crisp. This is applicable to any joint, and the meat being more elevated than usual when placed in the oven, causes it to partake more of the flavour of a roast joint than it does when put immediately over the pudding or potatoes, the vapours arising from which sodclens the meat, instead of leaving it brown and -well On ISAK1NG MEAT IN OVEN. jt) A SERIES OP RECEIPTS ON BAKED MEATS. Ribs of Beef baked. — Take three long ribs of beef, bene, season, stuff, and roll as for semi-roasting, No. 207 ; put either Yorkshire pudding or any kind of vegetable in the bottom o! the dish, then put on the grating, on which put your potatoes ; then fix on the trivet at about three inches above the grating; when done, pour on a hot dish half a pint of boiling water, quarter of a teaspoonful of salt ; pour this under your joint, turn it over ; when hot, turn over twice, and carve ; it will make a rich gravy. Serve the potatoes round, or separate ; the pudding to be served on a hot dish. By chopping the bone small, good broth and soup may be made. If the oven happens to be too hot, cover the joint with a piece or two of plain paper, well greased. A piece of meat weighing about eight pounds, will take from one hour and twenty to thirty minutes, giving always as a rule from ten to twelve minutes to every pound of meat, for joints of from six to twelve pounds. Any other piece of beef of an inferior part, requires to be baked slowly, allowing fifteen minutes to every pound, and if too lean, may be larded, as No. 450 2. For a Leg of Pork. — Peel six apples, six onions, and twelve potatoes ; put the apples and onions at the bottom of the dish, adding half a pint of coloured water, a teaspoonful of salt, one of sugar, half one of pepper ; lay the potatoes on the grating, the meat over ; give fifteen minutes to every pound of meat. Half a pint of sage and onion sauce may be poured over the apples and onions previous to baking. Any joint of pork may De stuffed with sage aad onions. 3. Fillet of Veal. — I have also tried the following : — Prepare a fillet, which stuff; oil a sheet or two of clean paper; cut in slices four ounces of bacon, two onions, one carrot, one turnip, a little celery, if handy, a little thyme and bay leaf; wrap up the veal and the above in the paper, and bake for two hours ; when done, take out the veal and serve with vegetables round it. It will be delicious ; pray let me know your opinion. Any part of veal may be done the same. Fried bacon icay be serv*/] with it. 96 ON BAKING MEAT IN OVEN. Also half a pint of melted butter, one tablespoonful of ketchup; two of Harvey's sauce, well mixed ; pour round and serve. 4. To bake Mutton — Proceed as for beef, time according to size, putting under a Yorkshire pudding, or some rice boiled with curry in it, or boiled French haricot beans, which I have used for a change now and then. I also put a piece of pudding- paste, half way up the knuckle of a leg of mutton, which pre* vents it getting dry, that being so much thinner than the other part. Loin and shoulder the same ; if a piece happens to be lean and dry, butter it over, cover it with paste, and bake as usual. The shoulder, baked, like the leg of pork, is good with apples, potatoes, and onions. 5. Lamh, being very delicate, allow only ten minutes per pound for the ribs, the same for the shoulder, twelve minutes for the leg. Spinach, peas, asparagus, and sprouts, are best with lamb. All kinds of poultry may be done the same, though roast them by all means, if you can ; but if wrapped up in paper, as for fillet of veal, No. 3. in this series, it will be excellent baked. 6. Vegetables with baked Meat. — My new plan of cooking vegetables with baked meat is as follows : — Scrape, wash, and cut in pieces two pounds of carrots, boil them in salt and water till three parts done, drain them in cullender, then put them at the bottom of your dish, season with half a teaspoonful of salt, half that of pepper, add half a pint of coloured water, then place the potatoes on the grating, the meat on the trevet, and bake as above * Any such joints as sirloin, skirt, edgebone, or any other piece of beef, weighing from eight to ten pounds, should have a tea- spoonful of salt sprinkled over, rubbing on also a little fat or * In the way of vegetables for beef, I have tried turnips, Jeru- salem artichokes, parsnips, &c. Also for veal, lamb, and mutton, spinach, greens, cauliflowers, Brussels sprouts, all parboiled and well drained. A pint of second class batter, added to either the parsnips, artichokes, turnips, carrots, peas, asparagus, &c, using only one pound instead of two, but quite boiled, and omitting the gravy, either (4 these will turn out like a pudding. MEAT PUDDINGS. 97 tmtter ; roast as above, dish it up with the gravy, taking off the fat, if any, serving the carrots and potatoes with it or separata. 7. Another Way, — If an ordinary dish, put the potatoes over the carrots, also a few onions sliced, and the beef on trevet, as usual When the meat has been too lean, put a piece of fat on the top, and cover the beef with a coating of pudding-paste, No. 319. When done remove the paste, and brown the meat with a shovel, like you would do venison ; both meat and paste are excellent, the meat being full of gravy. MEAT PUDDINGS. 233. Puddings. — Although the same word with the same meaning exists in all European languages, yet it may properly be said to be peculiarly English, as pudding has become quite a national dish. The various counties of England have each a particular way of making them, and it is almost impossible to give any method hitherto untried. The first most important point is never to use any meat that is tainted, for in pudding, above all other dishes, it is least possible to disguise the confined process which the ingredients undergo ; the gradual heating of the meat, which alone would accelerate decomposition, will cause the smallest piece of tainted meat to contaminate all the rest. Be particular that the suet and fat are not rancid, ever remembering the grand principle, that everything which gratifies the palate nourishes. Tainted meat, you will justly say, is bad in whatever way it may be cooked ; true, but take a joint which, in the middle of summer, from some trifling cause, has some small part a little tainted, and which is often sold cheap to those who cannot afford to purchase better, this, by the worst part being cut away, rubbed with a piece of charcoal, if for roasting, or a piece of charcoal put into the water, if for boiling, at once renders it sweet; but onr great national dish cannot be subjected to this process. Although the tastes of all people differ ; some may like the haut gout of high venison or the wild fowl, and possibly mignt like the same in pudding, yet "*■ is our duty here to point out those things which are nourishing, and likewise those that are not; therefore, I here send you some receipts which will please everybody's taste, everybody's palate, and, I hope, everybody's pocket. 98 MEAT PUDDINGS. 234. Beef Padding. — Take about one pound of steak, cut it lengthways in three pieces, and then slantways at each inch, instead of in lumps ; but should you buy cuttings of meat from the butchers, then remove all the sinew and over fat, and cut the large pieces slantways, put them in a dish, and sprinkle over with a teaspoonful of salt, a half ditto of pepper, and a tea- spoonful of flour, the same of chopped onions ; mix well together, make six or eight ounces of paste as No. 319, roll it to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, or a little more, put pud ding- cloth in a basin, sprinkle some flour over it, lay in your paste, and then the meat, together with a few pieces of fat ; when full put in three wineglasses of water ; turn the paste over the meat, so as not to form a lump, but well closed ; then tie the cloth, not too close on the paste, or it will not be light ; boil it fast in four quarts of water for one hour; take it out, let it stand a few minutes to cool the cloth, cut the string, turn back the cloth, place a dish on the top, and turn it over on it, remove the cloth, and serve. 235. — If you choose to add a kidney it may add to the richness of the gravy, also a few oysters, or even a mushroom. The crust should always be cut with a knife. If you carefully follow the above instructions you will have a pudding quite perfect, the paste as light and as white as snow, and the meat tender, with a thick gravy. 236. — Observation. You will perhaps be surprised that I recommend It to be boiled fast instead of simmering. I do so, because the meat $ being enclosed in the paste, and sometimes in a basin, is alone subject to the action of simmering in its own gravy. These puddings lose a less amount of nourishment in cooking than any other kind. In a large pudding a few sliced potatoes is not bad. This may truly be considered as much a national dish as roast heef and plum pudding, and being so, it is surprising that it is so often made badly, and indi- gestible : the pieces of meat and fat often cut two inches square, instead of smaller pieces ; the pudding, sometimes left half out of the water, the crust becomes hard and black, and the meat very dry. 237. Roast Beef "Pudding. — Any remains of cold roast beef may be done as follows : mince about one pound of cooked meat cut in dice, put on a dish, add one teaspoonful of salt, half that of pepper, one of flour; fill your paste with it, add a gill o{ water ; cover over as usual, shake it well, tie it up in a cloth, MKAr PUDDINGS. 99 and toll for half an hour, and serve. A little chopped onions or parsley may be introduced. 238. Another Way. — Proceed as above, only add for e7ery pound of meat two ounces of either gherkins, pickled walnuts or mushrooms, chopped fine or sliced. 239. 'Mince Beef Pudding with JEggs. — Proceed as above; omit the pickles, adding boiled ham or fried bacon instead, cut in dice, also add two hard-boiled eggs cut in dice ; mix all together , boil as above, white sauce over, or melted butter. 240. Veal Pudding. — Cut two pounds of raw veal, four ounces of ham, or lean bacon ; season delicately with a teaspoonful ol salt, the half of pepper, a little flour and chopped parsley, a gill of water ; proceed as for the other puddings, boil two hours, and serve. 241. Calves' Brain and Tongue of any hind, previously cooked. — Soak and wash a brain clean, boil it for a quarter of an hour in a quart of water, in which has been added a tea- spoonful of salt, a quarter of pepper, and a little vinegar, if handy. Let it get cold, then mould the pudding; cut the brain in half- inch slices, lay thin slices of tongue, previously cooked, on the bottom, then of brain ; season with salt, pepper, parsley, and a little chopped onions ; continue until full ; then mix a teaspoonful of flour with a gill and a half of milk, or water, and pour in ; close the pudding, and boil one hour and serve. Cut it with a knife. Two hard-boiled eggs cut in slices, would improve it ; also a little gherkin, chopped line, will vary the flavour. 242. Sheep's, Lamb's, and Pig's Brains, and Tongue Pud- dings. — Proceed as for Calves', but will not take quite so long in cooking. 243. Calves* Head and Tongue. — The remains of any from a previous dinner can be used for puddings with or without a little brain: proceed as for brain pudding. A little curry powder added will improve it. This will produce a better effect on the table as a pudding, than a common hash ; for the great principle in cookery is to please the eye, as well as the palate. 244. Lamb, Veal, or Porlc Liver Pudding. — Cut one pounj 100 MEAT PUDDINGS, $i liver in slices, also two ounces of bacon ; season with a tea- epooDful of .salt, a half of pepper, one chopped onion, one o! parsley; mix it well with the bacon, dip each piece of liver in fcome hour, and lay the liver and bacon in the pudding, with a gill and a half of water ; boil one hour. A teaspoonful of colour- ing mixed with the water will give a rich appearance to all pudding gravies. 245. The same, a plainer Way. — Cut one pound of liver and two ounces of bacon into dice, a quarter of an inch square; season with only salt, pepper, and onions, a spoonful of flour, and a gill and a half of water ; lay it in the pudding, and boil as before. Stuffing No. 456 may be mixed with it. 246. Liver and Kidney Pudding. — Put in a frying-pan two ounces of dripping, two ounces of bacon, in dice ; put it on the fire ; when the liver and kidney are seasoned, place it in the pan, and stir round until it is set ; each piece should be firm ; then add a tablespoonful of flour, mixed with a gill and a half of coloured water, No. 453a. When nearly boiling, place it in the pudding, tie up, and boil three quarters of an hour. A few herbs is a variation. 247. Mutton Pudding. — Chump of mutton is the best part to make into pudding, which cut in slices as for beef pudding ; in case it is very fat, add potatoes, and proceed the same. 248. Sheep's Head, Tongue, and Trotters, previously cooked, may be made into a very nice pudding, proceeding as usual. A few pickled walnuts, sliced, may be added. 249. Lamb Pudding. — Take the breast, and remove the big bones ; cut it crossways, season lightly ; have some veal stuffing ready, and lay the meat and stuffing in alternate layers in the pudding, with a gill and a half of water to every pound ; boil one hour and a half; serve with melted butter over the pudding, and a little chopped parsley on the top ; it has an inviting effect. Any part cf the lamb may be done the same way. 250. Pork Pudding. — Get about a pound of pork s as lean as possible ; any cuttings will do ; cut them into slices ; season with a little chopped sage, a teaspoonful ol salt, half of pepper ; roll the pieces up, and put them in the pudding with a f*w slices HEAT PUDDIN&J* 101 df potatoes, onions, one apple ; add a gill and a half of water j eover as usual, and boil for one hour and a hal£ 251. Rabbit Pudding. — A rabbit cut into about sixteen or eighteen pieces, and a quarter of a pound of bacon, sliced ; season in proportion to size, as before, and if for a numerous family, add ten potatoes and four onions, sliced, and half a pint of water ; boil for two hours, or according to size. Boiled rice may be added instead of potatoes. Well intermix the meat with the vegetables or rice. 252. Chicken Pudding. — Cut one into eight pieces, half a pound of bacon, cut into slices ; season with one teaspoonful of salt, half of pepper, two of chopped parsley, a little thyme, and one captain's biscuit, well broken; fill the pudding with the Heat, add half a pint of milk, boil for one hour and a half; serve with melted butter over, and chopped parsley on the top. 253. Pigeon Pudding. — Pluck, draw, and stuff two pigeons with the stuffing No. 456 ; then cut some large thin slices of beef, and some of the bacon ; season well ; roll the pigeons in the meat and bacon, lay them in the pudding ; boil four eggs hard, cut them into quarters, and fill the cavities with them ; mix a tea- spoonful of flour with half a pint of milk, or water, close up, and boil for one hour and a half, and serve. TJie same in Brown Gravy. — Add a tablespoonful of colour- ing, a little more salt and pepper. Young wood-pigeons may be done the same way, but will take half an hour longer doing. 254 Partridge and Cabbage Pudding. — Cut a Savoy cab- bage into four pieces, removing some of the outside leaves ; boil it for ten minutes, let it get cold, press the water out, cut off the thick root, and cut the other in slices ; then stuff the partridge as No. 45 o, place slides of bacon round it, lay some cabbage in the pudding, paste as usual, season the partridge, and lay it in with six or eight button onions, then the remainder of the cabbage, a gill of brown gravy, No. 2, or coloured water, No. 453 a : boil two hours, if an old bird, or one and a half, if young. 255. Young Book Pudding. — If these young inhabitants of the woods and forests are eatable in pies, I do not see why we should not give them, after their wild career, a soft bed of repose 102 MEAT BUDDINGS. in a pudding crust. Open them by the back, then draw them divide them into two, and then into quarters ; extract the big bones, leaving the flesh only ; beat each piece flat, and season with salt, pepper, and a little grated ginger; make a stuffing with the liver, No. 457. Lay on the crust a slice of bacon, then the birds, then a slice of steak ; season with any aromatic herbs, or chopped onions, leeks or mushrooms ; add a gill of ale, or wine, gravy or water ; boil one hour and a half, and serve. Pigeons may be done in the same way. 256. Fish Pudding. — Take two pounds of cod fish, cut in slices about the size of five-shilling pieces, half an inch thick ; fill the bowl with the paste, as usual, lay some of the fish on the bottom, season with salt, pepper, a little chopped parsley, onions, a little flour and pieces of the liver, if any, then the fish, and so on until full ; add a gill of milk or water, shake it well, tie up, and boil one hour, and serve. A little bay leaf and thyme may \>e added, if handy. All fish may be done the same way, varying the flavour according to taste. 257. Fish Pudding, a plainer Way. — Cut one pound of any fish in small p'eces, season with salt and pepper on a dish, a little flavour ; mix well, put in the paste with a gill of water, and if you have a wine-glass full of any fish sauce, add it, cover up, boil one hour, and serve. 258. Mackerel Pudding. — Cut off the heads of two mackerel, cut each one in four pieces, keeping the roe in ; fill the pudding with the pieces, season with salt, pepper, a little chopped onions and fennel, add a gill of water, boil one hour, and serve with fennel sauce over. 259. Eel Pudding. — Cut in long pieces, season with salt, pepper, chopped onions, parsley ; add a gill of water r wine or beer is very good, and proceed as for the others. 260. Baked Puddings. — My excellent friend, you must be of the same opinion as the rest of the world, namely, that variety is charming in almost every movement of life, therefore you will not object to my new proposal to send it to the baker's ; when the oven is at a moderate heat, they will be found excellent, eating different to a pie. The cloth of course is not required, MEAT PIES. 103 only grease the basin ; lay on the paste when the contents are in; make the paste meet equally on the top, moisten with water, roll out another piece about a quarter of an inch thick, put it over when fit, and cut away the trimmings from the adge of the basin, egg it over, bake in a slow oven, giving about the same time as you would for boiling; when done, shake the basin well, to make the gravy the same thickness throughout, and Berve, turning it out on a dish ; perforate the top. 201. Puddings half steamed and boiled. — Put in a pan a quart of water, when boiling, put your basin in with the pudding in it, boil gently one hour or more, according to what your pudding is made of; add boiling water occasionally, so as always to keep the same quantity in the pot. By having previously well buttered the basin, when done, by passing a knife between the paste and the basin, you may turn or cut it out, and pour over any appropriate sauce you like. They may also be steamed, a» now almost every kitchen possesses steam pans, in connexion with the boiler of the range ; or put rome water in our new baking-pan, put in the pudding, and send to the oven. IMPORTANT OBSERVATIONS ON THE ABOVE RECEIPTS. I must not forget to tell you, Eloise, that any of the above sort of puddings, no matter what made of, if sweet or savoury, is prefer- able made in a "basin to being put in a cloth, whiea is often very dirty in appearance ; while, if boiled in a basin, the paste receives all the nutriment of the meat, which, if boiled in a cloth, would evaporate in the water, if by neglect it ceases boiling. If you wish to turn it well out, thoroughly grease the inside of your basin when making. On Pudding Cloths. — A pudding cloth, however coarse, ought never to be washed with soap; it should be dried as quickly as possible, and kept dry and free from dust, and in a drawer or cupboard free from smell. MEAT PIES. Previous to making any pie do not omit reading the very important remarks I have made at the introduction of fruit p?es, see Index. 262. Beefsteak Pie. — Cut two pounds of steak into about twenty thin pieces, lengthways, fat included, season them with two teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, and a little chopped kerbs, and place them symmetrically on the dish, forming it high 104 MEAT HE*. in the centre. Add half a pint of water, in which has been put two tablespoonfuls of colouring. Cover over with paste (No. 317) half an inch thick, and bake for one hour in a slow oven. Pud- ding paste No. 319 may be used. For variety of pie-dishes see appendix. A little stuffing rolled up in the meat makes a change, and ht fit for the best table. A few spoonfuls of Harvey's sauce is likewise a change. 263. Family Steak Tie. — Take and cut two pounds of >eef in slices, two pounds of potatoes, a quarter of a pound of onions ; season with three teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper; mix it well together ; put the meat and potatoes into the pie-dish, in alternate layers; add a pint of water; cover over, as above, and bake for one hour and a half. 264. Veal Tie. — Delicate veal and ham pies can be made like the above, rolling up the veal and a little ham, or bacon, together, and a little stuffing, if handy. Proceed as for steak, or as for family steak-pies. Pork pies may be made in the same way. 265. Babhit Tie. — Cut the rabbit up as for pudding (No. 251) ; roll the pieces in flour, then put them in the pie- dish, with some slices of ham or bacon; season with salt, pepper, chopped onions, nutmeg, (grated, if handy), according to size; add half-a-pint of water; cover, and bake. A tea- spoonful of curry may be added, instead of pepper. Por family rabbit pie proceed as for family steak pie. 266. Fish Tie. — Proceed in every way as for puddings, and bake one hour. Oysters, muscles, perrywinkles, cockles, &c. f may be used. 267. Save Tie. — If it is a large hare it is best to jug it, as No. 216, cut in half cross ways. Save the back and legs foi roasting, and with the front part, which cut in pieces, make the pie. Put some steak at the bottom of the dish, with sali^ pepper, and chopped onions ; dip each piece of hare in flour, lay them on the steak, make some small balls of veal stuffing, which place in various places ; cover over with more steak ; add hal£ a-pint of water; finish with paste as usual. When baked, shake the dish to mix the gravy. The addition of a glass of wine, a VEGETABLES. 105 few herbs, and two teaspoon fuls of currant jelly, is a great improvement. 2C8. The Artisan's JPie. — Any pieces of meat, but not to* fat — four ounces of fat to every pound of meat is enough. Take two pounds of meat cut in slices, season it with three teaspoon- fuls of salt, one of pepper, four sliced onions ; peel four pounds of potatoes, cut in thick slices, which place on the bottom of the dish, then a layer of potatoes, then the meat; season well; Add a pint of water, and bake for two hours. Trimmings of meat of all kinds may be purchased in every large town, especially in London, and are the proper pieces for such economical pies ; in buying them, take care there is none tainted, as it will produce the effect as described in introduction of puddings. Cover with crust, as No. 319. 269. Poor Marts Potatoe JPie. — Wash and peel six pounds of potatoes, cut them in slices ; take half-a-pound of the fat of mutton or beef, or dripping, cut into small dice ; season the whole with a teaspoonful of pepper and three of salt; cover with paste, No. 317 and bake ono hour and a half. A bloater, boned and cut up with the fat, makes a nice change of flavour. VEGETABLES. As I have before remarked, the food of man, in order to give proper nourishment, should he often varied; in fact, his health depends upon it, and nature seems to have given him those instru- ments, the teeth, by which he is enabled to masticate both animal and Vegetable food, besides having provided him abundantly with vegetable produce, which seems the oalance, in point of health, between that and rich animal food. It i3 to be regretted that the labouring poor of this country do not partake of more vegetables than they do at present. If we travel over the country, we are surprised to find how small a portion of ground is engaged in horticulture ; the con- sequence is that, excepting near large towns, scarcely a vegetable is to be obtained, and the poor are doomed to live almost entirely on bread and cheese and a small portion of animal food, not even a potatoe is to be had during the winter and spring of the year. It is gaid by some, that the climate being colder than on the continent, the blood requires more heating food, and that in the summer the English are as much vegetable eaters as their neighbours ; if such 10: ZTAELES. m the case, why not, then, add to the vegetables, in cooking them, those rifimmts which would give all that animal food does. The most important of all the produce of the field is wheat, but that we shall treat of hereafter, under the head of bread. The most important of vegetable produce is the potato, a root the failure of whose growth produced a famine in one of the most productive countries in the world. It is a root in universal use, and ; acknowledged to be : ne the least understood how to be cooked. :er in a public journal, the other day, speaking of a well-boiled potato, says " that at present it is a thing purely ideal — it has never come out of the pot, in the experience of living man." Because people boil all potatoes alike. If you ask Betty why she boiled the potatoes in such a manner,, she answers, " My mother, or ■ry sister, did so, and they were good." And so with everybody, BttJe thinking that almost every potato differs ; even the proC the same seed will often differ in the same field. This is caused by the different soils, and the different manures applied to those soils. present p: b Jerent root from its parent one, which grows in the Caribbean islands. :ial food, although flesh, differs in its nature, and requires different cookery. A Welsh or a Kerry leg of mutton requires to be treated quite different to a I^icestershire or Southdown. This to. Some require quick boiling, othen slow ; some plenty of water, other i : me are best baked in their skins, others peeled ; some large ones require to be others will spoil if = d on through all the various gradations. rrefore consider it requisite, that if a potato is found not to be good by one system of boiling or steaming, to try a: :"_e most simple process of cookery, and it is e. i Potato boiled. — Meg Dods says there are great varieties d potatoes, and fully as many ways of cooking them, but recom- mends boiling in preference to steaming. Mrs. Eundell prefers steaming, or, if boiled, ia plenty . and when half done, some cold water and salt thrown in, and boil until not quite done, and then left in the pot near the fire.* * This is the Irish peasant's way (if he wishes to fast for six hours^ as it leaves the bone or moon in it. The origin of the word in Irish, am ghealeach, is that, when a half-cooked potato is cut in two, the centre shows a disk, with a halo around it, like the moon. This does not digest so quick, and allows the person who eats it to a;: longer without food, which I consider a great detriment to the eoatip* of the stomach. VEGETABLES. I | Mrs. Glasse says, Boil in as little water as possiMft, without I :\'. :._• :..-.- -:/: ItT \r.. Mrs. Acton gives onlj the Lancashire way; this is, peeled and boiled slowly ; when done, salt thrown over, and then the Y-~- -'•'-'- -^ Ti:"rr.:".v ::: s;:_r tine, s: tin: :lrT it= 2: :!-::. S'„e r-.-L".:.:'k= tLit :.- s r-ietl.: 1 is n:: e . : n : i_. i ; ;^1. Having given these, it is only right I should give iry ideas. As I have before said, they all, perhaps, require a different system. If steamed, salt should be thrown into the water, and not on the potato, and when done, remove the steamer, and also Bm Dover. _ 1 X How to choose Potatoes. — Observe, as a general rule, that the smaller the potato, as when they are too full in the eye they are either of an inferior quality, or are running to seed. To ascertain if they are sound, nip a piece from the thickest end with your finger nail ; if good, the inside will either be of a white, yellow, or reddish hue, according to the tort and quality ; if, on the contrary, they are spotted, they are bad, or getting so; but though this part may be slightly touched, by cutting a little off the outside they may prove fit for boiling ; though they ought to be bought, when in this state, at a cheap rate. Potatoes always get bad in the ipring . : the year, as then the old ones are going out. and the new ones for some time continue to possess but little flavour, and are watery when boiled. The old ones ought to be peeletl and steamed, and mashed, or baked in an oven, under a joint, or fried in fat, as No, 298 ; for when done whole in their skins. is time of the year, the slightest spot spoils their flavour, The new ones are tasteless and watery, and, as I described above to you., are much better cooked when put in very hot water, but sot loiling, than when put in cold, '271. — I: boiling water, or, may be, in cold, and either boiled qui but this you must find out. Choose all about the same size, with a smooth skin, and when they are boiled and begin to crac^ throw rater immediately, as it only damages the root Stand nea: vrith a cloth on, and serve in skim Salt should be put into * the beginning. A watery potato will require quick boiling, and sometimes to be put in soiling water. If Yc-ry watery, and they will not boil mealy, 108 VEGETABLES. put them nAge, — Scar's Pantropheon, 116 EGGS. when I am travelling, to find the eggs either too much or too little done. They will not take the trouble to distinguish a large one from a small one. Whilst some weigh only an ounce and a half, others weigli two and a half; but as that is a whim of nature, and the servants are so fond of attending to other frolics, they will not see the difference in this ; but as all cookery books say three minutes, and the mistress has told them the same, they are right, and she is wrong. From two and a half to four minutes, according to size, is the time they will take. Ten minutes is sufficient to set an egg hard, not thirty, or more, as some persons do by neglect. You know, my dear Eloise, how fidgety I am about such trifles. I have, therefore, invented a cooking clock, with very distinctly marked time; the hand is pushed back to any time named, and at the time required the bell strikes. I mean to adopt it for general kitchen use for all dishes, from an egg to a heavy joint. See Ap- pendix. 302. To Boil Eggs. — Put a pint of water into a small pan 5 when boiling, put two eggs in, and boil according to size — as I have before said, from two and a half to four minutes. Eresh- laid eggs will not take so long, and if only just set, are excellent for clearing the voice. 303. — To boil them for toast, they require sis minutes ; take them out, throw them in cold water, remove the shell, and cut them into slices ; put them on the buttered toast, a little pepper and salt, and serve. These are excellent with a little ketchup put on the eggs, then bread- crumbed, salamandered over, and serve. 304. Baked Eggs. — Put half an ounce of butter into a small tin pan ; break four eggs in it, keeping the yolks whole, throw a little pepper and bits oH butter and salt over ; put in the oven, or before the fire, till set, c&vd serve. They will take about six minutes doing. 305. Poached Eggs. — Put in a small pan half a pint of water, half a teaspoonful of salt, three of vinegar ; when boiling, break carefully in the pan two nice eggs, simmer for four minutes, or till firm, but not hard ; serve either on toast or fried bacon, or ham, or spinach, and on any minced and seasoned vegetable. 306. Mixed Eggs. — Break four eggs into a frying-pan, in which you have put two ounces of butter, a little salt and pepper, VAKIOUS OMELETTES. 117 get it on the fire, stir round with a wooden spoon very qoidflr, fco prevent sticking to the pan ; when all set, serve either on toast or dish. Fried bacon cut in dice, a little chopped onions, or mushrooms, or a liitle sprew grass, well boiled, may be added to the above. 307. Eggs and Bacon, — Cut some bacon very thin, put into a frying-pan half an ounce of butter, or fat, lay the bacon in it ; when fried on one side, turn over, and break one egg on each piece ; when the eggs are set, put the slice under the bacon, and remove them gently into a dish. Ham may be done the same. 308. Eggs, Convent Fashion, — Boil four eggs for ten minutes, put them in cold water, peel and slice thin one onion, put into a frying-pan one ounce.of butter ; wi^n melted, add the onion, and fry white, then add a teaspoonful of flour, mix it well, add about half a pint of milk, till forming a nice white sauce, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter ditto of pepper ; when nicely done, add the eggs, cut into six pieces each, crossways ; toss them up ; when hot through, serve on toast. 309. Eggs and Sausages. — Boil four sausages for five minutes, when half cold cut them in half lengthways, put a little butter or fat in frying-pan, and put the sausages in and fry gently, break four eggs into pan, cook gently, and serve. Eaw sausages will do as well, only keep them whole, and cook slowly. Omelettes or Fraise. Where is the man or woman cook but says they know how to make an omelette, and that to perfection? But this is rarely the case. It is related of Sarah, the Duchess of Marlborough, that no one could cook a fraise, as it was then called, for the great duke but herself. The great point is, if in an iron pan, it should be very clean and free from damp, which sometimes comes out of the iron when placed on the fire. The best plan is to put it on the fire, with a little fat, and let it get quite hot, or until the fat burns ; remove it, and wipe it clean with a dry cloth, and then you will be able to make th* omelette to perfection. 310. Omelettes. — Break four eggs into a basin, add half a tea- spoonful of salt and a quarter ditto of pepper, beat them up well with a fork, put into the frying-pan one ounce and a half ol feutter, lard, or oil, which put on the fire until hot j then pour ir lib VARIOUS OMELETTES. the eggs, which keep on mixing quick with a spoon until all is delicately set ; then let them slip to the edge of the pan, laying hold by the handle, and raising it slant ways, which will give an tlongated form to the omelette ; turn in the edges, let it set a moment, and turn it over on to a dish, and serve. It ought to be a nice yellow colour, done to a nicety, and as light and delicate as possible. It may be served in many ways, but some of the following are the most common: — two table spoonfuls of milk and an ounce of the crumb of bread cut in thin slices, may be added. 311. Omelettes with Herbs. — Proceed as above, adding a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, and half ditto of chopped onions or chives, or a little eschalot j salt and pepper, and semi-fry as above. 312. Bacon Omelette. — Cut one ounce of bacon into small iice, fry in a little fat; when done, add the eggs, and proceed as above. Ham, if raw, do the same as bacon ; if cooked, cut in dioe, put in the egsrs, and proceed as before. 313. Omelettes. — Oysters, mussels, periwinkles, or shrimps. When the omelette is nearly done, add a few tablespoonfuls of either of these sauces in the centre ; turn the omelette, and serve. For the above, see Fish Sauces. Any cooked vegetables, as peas, sprew, &c. y the same rnle the same paste will do for fruit pies, mixed with a little grated lemon or orange-peel, with the addition of a teaspoonful of sugar. 318. Short Paste. — Put on a slah or board a pound of flour t two ounces of pounded sugar, or whitey-brown, six ounces of butter, one egg, half a teaspoonful of salt, half a pint of water, mix sugar and butter well together, add it with the water by degrees to the flour, and form a nice paste, but firmer than puff- paste ; use where described. In a farm-house, for a treat, they use cream to make this paste. 319. Pudding Paste. — 1st Class Paste. Put on a slab, table, board, or basin, one pound of flour, half a pound of beef or mutton suet, chopped rather fine — the first, is prefer- able — form a well with your hand in the centre of the flour, add the suet, a teaspoonful of salt, half of pepper ; moisten all with water, working the flour in by degrees, till it forms a stiff paste ; work it well for two minutes, throw a little flour on the slab, with the paste on it ; let it remain five minutes, then roll it out to any thickness you like. This will be referred to very often, therefore pay particular attention to it, and give it an important place in the book. For savoury pudding, I sometimes vary the flavour, by adding a little chopped parsley, or a little onion, or thyme, or mushrooms in it. 2nd Class Paste. Proceed the same way, putting only she ounces of suet. 3rd Class Paste. The same, with four ounces. 4th Class Paste. The same, with four ounces of dripping. Lamb, veal, and pork fat, may be used ; but as they do not chop so floury, the paste is heavier. But they can be used for baked puddings, which I have introduced at page 102 in that series. 320. Fruit Tart, French fashion. — This requires a mould or a tin pan ; it must be well wiped with a cloth, butter it, then take the remains of half puff paste, and roll it well so as to deaden it, then roll it out a size larger than your mould, and about a quarter of an inch thick ; place your mould on a baking-tin, put the paste carefully in the mould and shape it well, to obtain all the form of the mould, without making a hole in the paste; put a piece of paper at the bottom, fill with #*uit to the to^, and bakjj 122 PASTRY. a nice colour ; it will take about half an hour baking with an^ fruit in season; put plenty of sugar over, according to the acidity of the fruit. 321. Another. — If you have no mould, make a quarter of a pound of paste (No. 318), roll it round or oval to your fancy, a quarter of an inch thick, wet the edge all round about half an inch, raise that part, and pinch it with your thumb and fingers, making a border all round, put on a baking-sheet, fill it with one row of fruit if large, two rows if small ; remove the stones, and sift sugar over according to the acidity of the fruit ; it will take less time, too, than if in a mould : You see what variation ean be made with very little trouble or expense. 322. Small 'Pastry. — Make a quarter of a pound of half puff paste (No. 318), roll it to a thickness of a quarter of an inch, cut five or six pieces out with the rim of a tumbler ; put each piece in a separate tin, shape it well in forming a nice thin rim round the edge with your finger and thumb, three parts fill with either jam, stewed fruit, sweetmeats, custard, pastry, or cream, bake in a very hot oven for twenty minutes ; dish up in pyra- mids, and serve. See Index. 323. Little Fruit Missoletles. — I also make with the trim- mings of puff paste the following little cakes : if you have about a quarter of a pound of puff paste left, roll it out very thin, about the thickness of half a crown, put half a spoonful of any marmalade on it, about one inch and a half distance from each other, wet lightly round them with a paste-brush, and place a similar piece of paste over all, take a cutter of the size of a crown piece, and press round the part where the marmalade or jam is with the thick part of the cutter, to make the paste stick, then cut them out with one a size or two larger, lay them on a ©aking-tin, egg over, place in a nice hot oven for twenty minutes, then sugar over with finely sifted sugar, so as to make it quite white, then put back into the oven to glaze, and serve. 323a. Plain Puff Paste Cake.— Make half a pound as No. 815a ; when done, roll it about a quarter of an inch thick, cut As many pieces as you can with the cutter, or with the edge of a glass, wet a baking sheet, place them on, egg well over, sift eome sags# on each, bake from iraa to twelve minutes, an; serve. PASTItY. 123 324. Orange and Almond Cakes. — Proceed as above, but lay orange marmalade all over a quarter of an inch thick, four ounces of almonds, cut into fillets, mixed with two ounces of sugar, and the white of two egg added to it ; lay the almonds all over the marmalade, bake in a moderate oven, and cut in a diamond shape, dish up on a napkin in crown or pyramid ; they ought to be of a nice transparent colour. Apple or quince marmalade may be used instead of orange. 325. Preserve CaJce. — This style of cake is exceedingly simple, and admits of great variation. You must make half a pound of puff paste (No. 315a), take one third of it and roll it out several times so as to deaden it, then mould it round with your hands to the shape of a ball, roll it out flat to the thickness of a crown, lay it on a baking-sheet, put on it marmalade, or any other preserve, a quarter of an inch thick, reserving about one inch all round of paste to fix the cover on, then roll out the remainder of the paste to the same shape, it will of course be thicker ; wet the edges of the bottom, and lay the cover on it; press it so that it sticks, cut neatly round the edges, and make a mark with the back of a knife about a quarter of an inch deep and half an inch apart all round ; egg over, and lightly mark any fanciful design with the point of a knife on the cover ; bake in a very hot oven for twenty minutes; when nearly done, sprinkle some sugar over, frost it with a hot shovel, and serve cold. 326. Small Cream Cake — The former one must be made in proportion to the dish you intend to serve on, but the following is simple, and looks as well: Prepare the paste as before, but roll the bottom piece about a foot square, put it on a baking- sheet, cover with half an inch of cream (see Index), leaving one inch round the edge ; roll the cover the same size, wet the edges, place it over, trim them, mark it down every three inches, and then crosswise every inch ; bake in hot Oven, sugar over, and salamander . When nearly cold, cut it where you have marked it ; thus, a piece twelve inches square will give you twenty-four pieces; dish as a crown or pyramid. Twelve pieces make a nice dish for a party. They may be made of any puff paste which is left, but will not be so light as if made on purpose ; can be cut to any fanciful shane you please. Any jam may be substituted for cream. 124 PASTRY. 327. Fruit Crusts.—Cuh a French penny roll lengthwise in four slices, put the yolk of one egg with four spoonfuls of milk, mix it in a plate, dip quickly each piece in it, and saute in a quarter of a pound of butter which you have previously melted in a frying pan ; leave them on the fire until they have obtained a nice gold colour on both sides ; put three spoonfuls of orange marmalade in a stewpan, with two glasses of sherry or brandy and place on the fire ; when on the point of boiling, pour over the bread, which you have previously put in a plate, and serve very hot. Any preserve may be used, also any white wine ; and should you have no French rolls, any fancy roll will do, or even the crumb of common bread. Any kinds of jam may be used. Nursery Dumplings, Having, the other evening, been invited to a children's party at Farmer Laurence's, near Oswestry, and the supper being composed, for the most part, of dumplings of various sorts, so as to please the chil- dren, I made the following experiment, which proved quite euc« cessful. 328. — Greengages being very plentiful, I went and gathered some, and made the following fruit dumplings. I made half a pound of paste (No. 319), rolled it out rather thin, then cut a piece round with the rim of a tumbler, moistened it, and placed a gage in the centre, adding a half teaspoonful of sugar, inclosed all in the paste, thoroughly closing the rim, then placed on the baking- sheet, the smooth part uppermost, and baked them from ten to twelve minutes, serving them up with sugar. They made a beautiful dish. Gooseberries, rhubarb, cherries, and mulberries, can all be done this way. All kinds of plums can be done the same. 329. Plain Cheese Calce. — Put half a pint of milk curds, well drained, in a basin, add to it an ounce and a half of butter gtir perfectly smooth, put in three teaspoonfuls of sugar, cue ounce oi washed currants, one egg, half a pint of milk, and any flavour you like, as lemon, orange, &c. &c. Prepare your paste as No. 322, fill up the tins with this, bake the same, and serve. PASTHY. 125 NATIONAL FRENCH CAKE OR GALETTE. Dearest Eloise, — There is one little and perhaps insignificant French cake, which I feel certain would soon become a favourite in the cottage, more particularly amongst its juvenile inhabitants. It is the famed galette, the melodramatic food of the gamins, galopins, me- chanics, and semi-artists of France. Show me one of the above-named citizens who has not tasted this irresistible and famed cake, after having digested the best and most sanguinary melodrama., from the " Courier of Lyons" to the " Corsican Brothers," and from the " Pilules du Liable" to the " Seven Wonders of the World," after having paid their duty to the elegance of the performance and performers, and entirely forgetting, as usual, the author, who is supposed to live ifc his tomb, whilst the actors and artists are dead in reality. Setting that on one side, observe that the last Seventh Wonder is over, the red- blue-green fire no longer required; the scene-shifter bolts and gets the first cut, smoking hot; then, also, rush the audience, full of melodrama and anything but food, to the galette-shop, where the Pere Coupe- toujours (Father Cut-and-come-again) is in full activity, taking the money first, and delivering the galette afterwards. Six feet wide by ten long is the galette-shop, and very clean, and above one hundred feet of galette is sold in less than one hour, at a sou or two the cut. Such is, even in summer, the refreshment of the admirers of the Boulevard du Crime. Like everything which has its origin with the million, it soon aims to an aristocracy of feeling, and I was not a little surprised, the last time I was in Paris, to see a fashionable crowd round an elegant shop, close to the Gymnase Theatre; on inquiring of a venerable citizen, who was anxiously waiting, with ten sous in his hand, the motive of such a crowd, he informed me that lie was waiting his turn to buy ten sous worth of galette du Gymnase, which he told me was the most celebrated in Paris. He passed ; and then ladies, beautifully dressed, took their turn ; in fact, the crowd brought to my recollection the description of the scene of the bread market at Athens (described In Soy er's " Pantropheon"), where the ladies of fashion or the petites maitresses of ancient Greece used to go to select the delicious puff cake, called placites, or the sweet melitutes, whose exquisite and perfumed flour was delicately kneaded with the precious honey of Mount Hymettus. At all events, I was determined not only to taste, hut to procure the receipt if I possibly could ; and as you know, Eloise, I seldom fail, when determined, the following is a copy. 330. Aristocratic Galette. — Work lightly in a basin or on a table one pound of flour with three (juarters of a pound of fresh 126 TIES. butter ; add two eggs, a gill of cream, and a little milk ; if too stiff, then add a quarter of a teaspooniul of salt, two of sugar ; work all well, to form a good stiff paste, throw some flour on the table, mould the pasts round, roll it three quarters of an inch thick, and quite rofciid, egg over, score it with a knife in diamonds, or any other shape ; bake for about half an hour in a rather hot oven, sprinkle sugar over and serve. A pound of either puff, No. 315a, or half puff paste, No. 316, will make a very light galette ; sugar over, and bake as above. 331. Cottage Galette. — Put one pound of flour, a teaspoon- ful of salt, six ounces of butter ; moisten with milk, and bake as above, adding a teaspoonfal of sugar. 332. Poor Maris Galette. — One pound of flour, a quarter of a pound of lard, moisten with milk, or water ; proceed as above, moisten with a little water on the top, and dredge sugar over. If no lard, use dripping. INTRODUCTION TO TIES, BOTH SWEET AND SAVOURY. No matter how ridiculous? it may appear to Mrs. Smith, or Mrs. Brown, or Mrs. Any -body -else, do not omit to give room to the fol- lowing remarks on pies. Never mind how simple these remarks may seem to you, the million will understand them well. For example, where is the little boy or girl in Great Britain who has not eaten pies sweet and savoury ? From childhood we eat pies — from girlhood to boyhood we eat pies — from middle age to old age we cat pj es — i n fact, pies in England may be considered as one of our best companions du voyage through life. It is we who leave them behind, not they who leave us; for our children and grandchildren will be as fond of pie as we have been ; therefore it is needful that we should learn how to make them, and make them well ! Believe me, I am not jesting, but if all the spoilt pies made in London on one single Sunday were to be exhibited in a row beside a railway line, it would take above an hour by special train to pass in review these culinary victims; therefore see the importance of the subject. If we could only rescue to proper standing half a mile of pies and pie-crust, I think we should deserve a piece of plate, or at least a piece of one o! our disciple's pies. How to Make a Pie to Perfection. — When your paste iff carefully made (No. 316), or short paste (No. 318), which requires pies. 127 ^o more time than doing badly, and your pies and tarts properly lull — (this is the last and most important process in pie and tart making) — throw a little flour on your paste-board, take about a quarter of a pound of your paste, which roll with your hand, say an inch in circumference ; moisten the rim of your pie-dish, and fu the paste equally on it with your thumb. When you have rolled your paste for the covering of an equal thickness, in proportion to the contents of your pie (half an inch is about correct for the above description), fold the cover in two, lay on the half of your pie, turn the other half over, press slightly with your thumb round the rim, cut neatly the rim of your paste, form rather a thick edge, which mark with a knife about every quarter of an inch apart ; mark, holding your knife in a slanting direction, which gives it a neat appearance ; make two small holes on the top ; egg over with a paste-brush ; if no egg, use a drop of milk or water; the remaining paste may be shaped to fanciful designs to ornament the top. For meat pies, notice, that if your paste is either too thick or too thin, the covering too narrow or too short, and requires pulling one way or the other, to make it fit, your pie is sure to be imperfect, the covering no longer protecting the contents. It is the same with meat ; and if the paste happens to be rather rich, it pulls the rim of the pie to the dish, soddens the paste, makes it heavy, and, therefore, indi- gestible as well as unpalateable. A little practice and common sense will remedy all those little housewifery tribulations, and probably improve the appearance of this series of dishes. 333. Plain Apple and other Tart. — Peel and cut about two pounds of apples, sharp ones being the best for the purpose, cut each in four pieces, removing the cores, then cut each quarter in two or three pieces, according to size ; put half of them in a pie- dish, slightly press them, so that they lay compact ; put over two ounces of brown sugar, then put in the remaining apples, then add another two ounces of sugar, making the apples form a kind of dome, the centre being two inches higher than the sides , add a small wineglassful of water, cover the top over with paste No. 318 ; bake in a moderate oven from half to three- quarters of an hour. All kinds of apples will, of course, make tarts, but if the apples be sweetish or too ripe, you need not put in so much *ugar, but add double the quantity of water j in this case th* 128 SWEET PUDDINGS. addition of a little juice of a lemon is an improvement to vary the flavour ; use also a little grated or chopped lemon or orange- peel, or a quarter of a teaspoonful of cinnamon, or mixed spice, or four cloves, Green rhubarb and greengages will require a little more sugar, adding nothing else but the fruit ; proceed as for applet tart; pink rhubarb does not require pealing; ripe currants, raspberries, and cherries, also as above; plum, damson, and mulberries the same. SWEET PUDDINGS. 334. Plum Pudding. — Pick and stone half a pound of Malaga raisins, wash and dry the same quantity of currants, chop, not too fine, three-quarters of a pound of beef suet, put it in a convenient basin, with six ounces of sugar, two ounces of mixed candied peel sliced, three ounces of flour, three ditto of bread-crumbs, a little grated nutmeg, four eggs, a gill of water, or perhaps a little more, to form a nice consistence ; butter a mould, put a piece of white paper over the top and round the gides, tie it in a cloth, boil for four hours in plenty of water ; when done, remove the cloth, turn it out of the mould, take the paper off the sides and top, and serve with sweet sauce round ; it may also be boiled in a cloth. The above is only for Christmas. Now for every day. Pat into a basin one pound of flour, one of chopped suet, half a pound of mixed fruit, a little spice, grated lemon-peel, three ounces of sugar, two eggs, half a pint of milk, or enough to make it a proper thickness, tie it in a cloth, boil four hours, turn it out, and serve with melted butter, or sweet sauce ; bread- crumbs instead of flour is good, or half of each. 335. A Series of Economical Puddings, which can be made either in a mould, basin, tart-dish, or tin cake-pan. — Well butter either, fill lightly with any of the following ingredients : -—Either stale buns, muffins, crumpets, pastry, white or brown bread, sliced and buttered, the remains of sponge-cakes, ma- caroons, ratafias, almond cake, gingerbread, biscuit of any kind, previously soaked. For a change with any of the above, you may intermix with either fresh or dried fruit, or preserves, even plums, grated cocoa nut, &c. When your mould is full of SWEET AND FRUIT PUDDINGS. 129 either of the above, put in a basin a quarter teaspoonful of either ginger, a little mixed spice, or cinnamon, if hand}', grated orange, lemon, or a few drops of any essence you choose ; put in three eggs, which beat well, add three gills of milk for every quarter mould. When the above is well mixed, fill up nearly to the rim. It can be either baked or boiled, or put into a saucepan one-third full of water, with the lid over, and let simmer for about one hour. Pass a knife round the inside of the basin or mould, turn out } r our pudding, pour over either melted butter with a little sugar, the juice of a lemon or spirit sauce. It ought to be the pride of each cottager's wife to find cut a peculiar and cheap mixture, which would entirely depend on the part of the country in which she lives, that would be liked by the family, and give it as & treat every Sunday. 335a. Fruit Puddings. — Such as green gooseberry is best made in a basin, the basin to be buttered and lined with the paste, roll- ing it round to the thickness of half an inch ; then get a pint of gooseberries and three ounces of sugar ; after having made your paste, take half the fruit, and lay it at the bottom of your basin, then add half your sugar, then put the remainder of the gooseberries in and the remainder of the sugar; on that draw your paste to the centre, join the edges well together, put the cloth over the whole, tying it at the bottom, and boil in plenty of water. Fruit puddings, such as apples and rhubarb, should be done in this manner ; boil for an hour, take out of the sauce- pan, untie the cloth, turn out on a dish, or let it remain in the basin, and serve with sugar over. A thin cover of the paste may be rolled round and put over the pudding. Eipe cherries, currants, raspberries, greengage, plums, and such like fruit, will not require so much sugar, or so long boiling, 336. Card Milk Pudding. — Put in a basin three eggs, a little grated lemon-peel, three ounces of currants, cue pint of curds, and one pound of bread-crumbs ; boil in a cloth half an hour ; turn out and serve. 337. Cocoa Nui Pudding. — Grate half a nut, add another egg to the milk, mix with the above . An ounce of flour may be added* 338. Plain Pice Pudding. — Wash a quarter of a pound of rice, put into a stewpan with a pint and a half of milk, three ounces of butter, three ounces of sugar, lemon-peel* simmer tili 1,W SWEET AND FRUIT TUDDINCS. the rice is tender, add two eggs, previously well beaten, mix quick, put in pie-dish ; bake half an hour, or till set. 339. Spotted Dich. — Put three-quarters of a pound of flour into a basin, half a pound of beef suet, half ditto of currants, two ounces of sugar, a little cinnamon, mix with two eggs ana two gills of milk ; boil in either mould or cloth for one hour and a half; serve with melted butter, and a little sugar over. 340. Light Dough Dumplings. — Get one pound of dough, make it into small balls the size of eggs, boil in plenty of water, and use it for roast or boiled meats, or serve with butter and sugar, or with gravy. Two ounces of chopped suet added to the above, or to vary the flavour, add a few currants, a little sugar, grated nutmeg, or lemon-peel. 341. Apple and Paste "Pudding in Basin. — Make one pound of paste, No. 319, roll it a quarter of an inch thick, lay some in a bowl, fill it with apples cut in quarters, add two cloves, two ounces of sugar, a little butter, put another piece of paste on the top, and join the edge nicely; tie it in a cloth and boil. It can be served up either in the basin or turned out. Do not open the top to put more sugar in, as it spoils the flavour and makes it heavy. . All fruit puddings may be done the same way. 342. Suet Pudding. — Put into a basin half a pound of chopped suet, a pound of flour, two eggs, a teaspoonful of salt, quarter of pepper, nearly half a pint of water ; beat all well to- gether, put into a cloth as above ; boil one hour and a half. 343. Bread Pudding. — An economical one, when eggs are dear. Cut some bread and butter very thin, place it in a pie- dish as lightly as possible, till three-parts full ; break into a basin one egg, add two teaspoonfuls of flour, three of brown sugar ; mix all well together, add to it by degrees a pint of milk, a little salt ; pour over the bread ; bake in an oven ; it will take about half an hour : this will make a nice size pudding for four or five persons. This may be done in twenty different ways, by varying tho flavour of the ingredients, as lemon-pcel, orange-peel, nutmeg, cinnamon, or mixed spice, or essences of any kind. For children, skim-milk, or half milk and water, dates, or SWEET AND FRUIT PUDDINGS* 131 French plums, or iigs, previously soaked and cut, may be ad Jed they are excellent for children. 344. Brown Bread Buddings, the same way. 344a. Broken Biscuit Budding. — These may be bought very cheap at a baker's ; they should be soaked in milk and sugar the over night, and proceed as above or as No. 335. Stale sponge cake may be used with them. 345. Bice, Macaroni, and Vermicelli Buddings. — Wash a quarter of a pound of rice, boil till tender, drain it, place it in the pie-dish with any kind of fruit, and one ounce of butter, in bits ; pour custard No. 3G1 or 343 over, and bake. Vermicelli and macaroni previously boiled, may be done the same. 346. The Same for a Numerous Family, or School. — Two pounds of boiled rice, with one pound of chopped suet ; mix in a pan with four eggs, ten teaspoonfuls of flour; moisten with five pints of water, or skim-milk ; add one pound of sugar and a teaspoonful of salt ; bake about one hour. To vary it, a few Smyrna rasins may be added. Apples, or any dry fruit, may be used, previously soaked. 347. Lemon Dum2)lings.—Choip the rind of one lemon fine, add it to the juice ; chop up half a pound of suet ; mix with half a pound of bread crumbs one egg t enough milk or water to make a stiff paste ; add the lemon ; sweeten to taste ; divide it into five equal parts, and boil in separate cloths for three-quarters of an hour ; serve with butter and sugar, or a little honey. 347a. Apple Dumplings. — Peel and take out the cores of a large apple, cover it with paste No. 318 or 319, boil in a cloth, or plainly bake for thirty minutes. Serve with butter and sugar. 348. Another. — Put into the paste in making it, two ounces of sugar ; a few sultans, or plums, may also be added, and served with sweet, melted butter or spirit sauce over. 349. A Simple Suet Dumpling. — One pound of flour, half a pound of chopped suet, a teaspoonful of salt, quarter ditto of pepper ; moisten with water until a stiff paste : use where required. They may be rolled in small balls, ind may be used in savoury pies, hash, or stews. 132 SWEET AND FRUIT PUDDINGS. 350. Rice and Preserve. — Eoil half a pound of rice as No. 4,(53; when just done, add one ounce of butter, a tablespoonful of currant jelly, one ounce of sugar ; mix all well together with a fork, and serve. Apple marmalade, rhubarb, cherries, currants, and rasp- berry jam, orange marmalade, &c, may be used, and an immense variation may be made. If it is found too thick, add some milk. Dish up in pyramids, and serve. 351. Ground Rice Pudding. — Boil one pint of milk with a Little piece of lemon peel ; mix a quarter of a pound of ground rice with half a pint of milk, two ounces of sugar, and one of butter ; add this to the boiling milk ; keep stirring, take it off the fire, break in two eggs, one after the other ; keep stirring ; butter a pie-dish, pour in the mixture, and bake until set. This is one of the quickest puddings that can be made. 352. Snow Rice Cream. — Put in a stewpan four ounces of ground rice, two ounces of sugar, a few drops of the essence of almonds, or any other essence you choose, with two ounces of fresh butter 5 add a quart of milk, boil from fifteen to twenty minutes, till it forms a smooth substance, though not too thick ; then pour in a mould previously oiled, and serve when cold. It will turn out like jelly. If no mould, put either in cups or a pie-dish. The rice had better be done a little too much, than under. 353. Handy Pudding. — Eemove the inside of three lemons into a basin, take out the pips, add half a pound of sugar, mix well ; roll a long strip of paste, as for rolly-polly pudding, lay the mixture over with a spoon; roll and boil the same as rolly-polly pudding. Orange can be done the same way, with the addition of the juice of half a lemon. 354. Young England Pudding. — Make some paste, No. 319, roll and lay it in a basin ; then roll about seven or eight very thin pieces the size of the bason; then get a pound of treacle, or golden syrup, and pour a little on the paste, squeezing a little lemon juice, and chop up the rind of a lemon, and sprinkle a little over ; add the other pieces of paste, and then the treacle and lemon until full. Boll in, a cloth for one hour, and serve with some treacle over. SWEET AND FRV11 PUDDINGS. 183 I think I remember telling yon, my dear Eloise, of the pleasant tiire I passed at Boulogne two summers since, and of our little trip fro the Vallee Heureuse, or Happy Valley, near Marquise, a charming village near Boulogne. In the course of our ramble on that plea- sant day, we all gathered a lot of blackberries — but such berries as we do not meet with in England; they are a luscious, ripe fruit. These we took home with us to the hotel, and the next day boiled them up with a lot of sugar, and made them into a pudding like the above, using the fruit and syrup instead of treacle. It was very much liked at dinner, which was a table d'hote, and the colour somewhat resembling Uncle Tour's face, it was at once christened with that name, and is now known as Uncle Tom's pudding. A little port wine sauce may be used, and also black currants, boiled to a syrup. 355. Isinglass and Gelatine for Jellies.— Dissolve two ounces of isinglass in half a pint of water $ boil and reduce to half, pass through a cloth into a basin ; use where required. Gelatine may be used the same way. The stock of two calf's feet, reduced to half a pint, may be used instead of isinglass ; it will make it cheaper. The stock of cow-heel can also be used. 356. Bohemian Cream. — Prepare four ounces of any fruit, as "No. 384, which pass through a sieve, and one ounce and a half of melted isinglass to halt a pint of fruit; mix it well, whip up a pint of cream, and add the fruit and isinglass gra- dually to it ; put it in a mould ; let it set on ice or in any cool place, and when ready, dip the mould into warm water, and turn out. 357. White Cream.*— Put into a bason a quarter of a pound of sugar, a gill of pale brandy, and one and a half ounce of either melted isinglass, gelatine, or calf's loot ; stir it well, and add a pint of whipped cream ; proceed as before. Bum, noyeau, curacoa, or other liquors or flavours, may be added. When liquors are used, add less sugar. If you have any ice, use only an ounce of either. 358. Calfs-fcot Jelly. — It is possible, even in the poorest family, that jelly may be recommended in cases of illness, and they may be at a distance from any place where it could be purchased. I think it right to give the following receipt : — Cut two calf's feet and put them in three quarts of water ; when boiling, remove to the side of the fire, and let it simmer from three to four ^ours, keeping it skimmed; pass it through a 134- SWEET AND PKUIT PUDDINGS. sieve into a bason, where it must remain until quite hard ; then remove all the fat, &c, from the top. Put into a pan half & pound of white sugar crushed, tha juice of four lemons, the rind of one, the whites and shells of five eggs, two glasses of white wine and a pint and a half of water ; stir till the sugar is melted, then add the jelly ; place it on the fire and stir well until boiling; then pass it through a flannel bag until clear. Put in a mould with or without fresh fruit. Set in ice or any cool place, till firm. Brandy, rum, or any liqueurs, may be added, or serve plain. 359. Orcrnge Jelly. — Procure five oranges and one lemon ; take the rind off two of the oranges, and half of the lemon, and remove the pith, put them in a bason, and squeeze the juice of the fruit into it ; then put a quarter of a pound of sugar into a stewpan, with half a pint of water, and set it to boil until it becomes a syrup, when take it off, and add the juice and rind of the fruits; cover the stewpan, and place it again on the fire ; as soon as boiling commences, skim well, and add a gill of water by degrees, which will assist its clarification ; let it boil another minute, when add an ounce and a half of isinglass, dissolved as directed (No. 355), pass it through a jelly-bag, or fine sieve; add a few drops of prepared cochineal to give an orange tint, and then fill a mould and place it on ice ; turn out as before. This jelly does not require to look very clear. 360. Lemon Jelly is made the same way, only using six lemons and the rind of one. To those who wish to save trouble, I would recommend them to buy their jellies ready made. They may be purchased at almost every Italian warehouse in town and country, in bottles of about a pint and a quart each, so prepared as to keep fresh and good for years. Many of my friends use these Bottled Jellies, of which I find the following are the best kinds : Noyeau, punch, orange, lemon, Madeira, and plain calf s-foot. They aro all very excellent and use- ful in their way. Dear Eloise, — While on the subject of jellies and confectionary I feci I should be wanting in duty to the public were I to refrain from drawing their earnest attention to the recent disclosures in th* Lancet, which so fearlessly exposed the poisonous adulterations found in the various articles of preserves and confectionarv snh^Hted to SWEET AND FRUIT rUDDINGS. . ' examination. There is not a doubt these disclosures have had a most beneficial effect in checking the existence of the injurious practices previously adhered to; and I may now look forward with confidence to the day when not only such delicacies, but the whole of the food we eat, may be enjoyed without the slightest fear of injury to our health. Adulteration will then become the exception, instead of, a3 it hitherto has been, the rule. The following paragraph, copied from the Lancet of the 4th February, 1854, appears to me not an inapt illustration of m$ remarks, displaying, as it does, the difference between pure and impure preserves, accompanied by the gratifying intelligence of the possibility of procuring them in a wholesome state.* 361. Plain Custard. — Boil a pint of milk, in which place two ounces of sugar, the thin peel of half a lemon ; break in a basin four eggs, beat them well with a fork, then pour in the milk by degrees, not too hot ; mix it well, pass it through a cullender or sieve, fill cups with it, which place in a stew- pan, on the fire, which contains one inch of water ; leave them for about twelve minutes, or till set, which is easily perceived. 362. Coffee, Cocoa, or Chocolate Custard. — Make some very strong coffee, beat the eggs as above ; put in a pan half a pint * " The practice of imparting to bottled and preserved fruits and vegetables a bright green colour, by means of a poisonous salt of copper, still prevails extensively. Nothing can be more pernicious than this practice ; it has, however, received a considerable check by the publication of the reports ot the Analytical Sanitary Commission on this subject. One firm, we know, that of Messrs. Crosse and Black well, whose establishment is the most extensive of any engaged in this branch of trade, has gone to a very considerable expense in fitting up a large silver vessel, as well as several steam pans, which latter are lined with a thick coating of glass enamel, for the prepara*. tion of their various manufactures; thus taking every precaution to guard against the contact with copper. The difference in the appearance of fruits and vegetables which are artificially coloured, and those which have not had any colouring matter added, is very great — so striking, indeed, that a practised eye can readily distinguish the one from the other. The former are of a bright and almost metallic-green hue, much deeper than that of the recent fruit, while the latter are of a pale yellowish -green colour, varying with the nature of the fruit or vegetable preserved. As for Che difference in the wholesomeness of the two articles, there can be out a single opinion, while, in our estimation, the appearance in tl>e ^coloured sample is much the most pleasing and natural/' *j6 SWEET AND FitUIT PUDDINGS. of milk and half a pint of made coffee, with two ounces of sugar, then add the eggs, pass through a sieve, and proceed as ahove. Chocolate and cocoa the same, only omitting the lemon-peel in all three. 363. Custard in JPie Dish. — Put a border of puff paste round the dish, fill with the above, and bake twenty minutes h a slow oven. Eat whilst cold. 364. Custard for Puddings. — The above will be the founda- tion for any flavour that may be introduced ; as orange flower or peel, noyeau, f cream or boiling milk will improve it. Or, when your oysters are Taw in the pan, add half a .gill of milk and a few peppercorns; blanch Kghtly, mix half a terispoonful of flour with half an ounce of butter, put in bit by bit, stir round, boil, and serve, A lit-le cayenne wiii improve it, also a drop of cream. 152 a series of sauces. Cod-Liver Sauce. — Half a pound of cod-liver, previously boiled, cut in large dice, with a little anchovy sauce, to half a pint of melted butter. Mix the same as No. 410. Fickle Sauce. — One tablespoonful of chopped pickle or piccallily, one ditto of the vinegar from it ; add to half a pint of melted butter, and boil for a few minutes. Good for fish, meat, and poultry. 414. Apple Sauce. — Peel six good-sized apples, cut in four pieces, cut out the core, slice them fine, put into a stew pan with one ounce of brown sugar and a gill of water; stew till in pulp, and serve with roast pork, goose, and duck. 415. Mint Sauce. — Chop three tablespoonfuls of green mint, put it into a basin with three of brown sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of pepper, and half a pint of vinegar. Use it with roast lamb ; also good with cold meat and poultry. 416. Horseradish Sauce. — Grate two tablespoonfuls of horse- radish, which put into a basin ; add to it one teaspoonful of mustard, one of salt, a quarter of pepper, one of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar; moisten with a little milk or cream until of a thickisb appearance. Serve with rumpsteak, cold meat, &c. 417. Wine and Spirit Sauce. — Add to half a pint of melted butter, without salt, two teaspoonfuls of white or brown sugar, a glass of brandy, or rum, or sherry, or any liquors. 418. Hotel Keeper's Sauce. — Mix in half a pint of melted butter one tablespoonful of hotel keeper's butter, No. 426 ; warm it an<* serve. 419. A White Sauce for toiled Foivls, &c. &c. — If for two fowls, add to one pint of melted butter (No. 410) two yolks of raw eggs, which mix well with a gill of cream, or milk, and when the melted butter is near boiling mix in and stir very quick, do not let it boil ; ?ason and dress as above. To vary them, two hard boiled eggs, cut in quarters, may be added ; a little eschalot, a few chives, or young onions. To improve the appearance of these salads, when on the table, before being used, the flower of the nasturtium may be inter- mixed with taste and care, with a little cut beetroot and slices of radish. These are refreshing to the sight on a table or side- board at dinner; slices of cucumber maybe also introduced. 430. Endive. — This ought to be nicely blanched and crisp, and is the most wholesome of all salads. Take two, cut away the root, remove the dark green leaves, and pick off all the rest, wash and drain well, dress as before ; a few chives is an improve- ment. 431. French Fashion. — Put in one clove of garlic, or rub a piece of crust of bread slightly with it, or the salad-bowl, mix the salad in the bowl as before; if rubbed slightly on the bread mix it with it. If properly contrived, it gives a flavour, which no one can detect. Tarragon or chervil may be used in these salads. 432. Marsh Mallow. — The roots of these should be removed, as likewise the faded leaves ; dress as for lettuce No. 428 , eggs and beetroot may be introduced in this, being almost a winter salad. Dandelion, or dent- de-lion, should not remain long in water, as they will get too bitter ; dress them as endive. Cow salad the same way. Watercresses the same, with a little cucumber and celery. 433. Mustard and Cress.— -These, if eaten alone, make an excellent salad ; they should be quickly washed and used, dressed as lettuce. A little tarragon or chervil, or a few chives, may be used. 434. Salad Sauce. — Boil one egg hard, when cold remove the yolk, put it into a basin, bruise it to a pulp with a spoon, — do not use iron, prefer wood, — then add a raw yolk and a teaspoonful of A SERjbS of salads. If 7 flour, a small teaspoonful of .salt, a quarter of popper, fcbtn add half a spoonful of vinegar j stir it round, pour over a tablespoonful of oil by degrees, keep stirring, then a little more vinegar, two more of oil, until eight teaspoonfuls of oil and three of vinegar are used ; season with half a teaspoonful of chopped onions, two of parsley, half of tarragon and chervil, a pinch of cayenne and six teaspoonfuls of melted butter cold. The white of the egg may be chopped up and added. It will keep for some time if properly corked, and maj be used in proportion with any of the above salads ; but still I must say I prefer the simplicity and skill of the Italian count's in preference to this, although this is very palatable. A gill of whipped cream is good in it, 435. Vegetable for Salads. — Beetroot, onions, potatoes, celery, cucumbers, lentils, haricots, succory, or barbe-de-capucin, winter cress, burnet, tansey, marigold, peas, French beans, radish, cauliflower ; all the above may be used judiciously in salad, if properly seasoned, according to the following directions : — 435a. Haricot and Lentil Salad. — To a pint of well-boiled haricots, add a teaspoonful of salt, quarter of pepper, one oi chopped onions, two of vinegar, four of oil, two of chopped parsley, stir round, and it is ready ; lentils are done the same. A little cold meat, cut in thin slices, may be added as a variety. 436. Beetroot Salad tvit7i Onions. — Boil four onions in the skin till tender, also a piece of beetroot; let both get cold; remove the skin, cut them in slices, put them in a plate, one slice on the edge of the other alternately ; put into a small basin half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of pepper, one of good vinegar, three of oil, mix them well ; pour over when ready to serve. Celery, Young Onions, and JRadishes may be used in salad with the above dressing, adding a teaspoonful of mustard. Cucumbers. — Cut in thin slices on a plate, with salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar in proportion to the above directions. Green French Beans. — When cold put into a bowl, with some tarragon, chervil, and chopped chives, dressed as before. Brussels Sprouts, the same way. 437. Potatoes. — If any remaining, cut them into thin slices, and season as befoie. A few haricots, or cold meat, or a chopped gherkin, may be added. 158 A SEMES OP SALADS. 433. Meat and Voaltry. — If there are any of the above left, and you require a relishing dish, and not having any fresh salad herbs, proceed as for the other salads, using a little chopped parsley, onions, or pickles. Some cucumber or celery may be used. The meat or poultry should be cut small. 439. Fish Salad. — A very nice and elegant dish may be ynade with all kinds of cold fisri, and some kinds of shell-fish but the following way of dressing is for a small Lobster Salad, and will do for all fish salads : Have the bowl half filled with any kind of salad herb you like, cither endive or lettuce, &c. Then break a lobster in two, open the tail, extract the meat in one piece, break the claws, cut the meat of both in small slices, about a quarter of an inch thick, arrange these tastefully on the salad, take out all the soft part from the belly, mix it in a bason with a teaspoonful of salt, half of pepper, four of vinegar, four of oil ; stir it well together, and pour on the salad ; then cover it with two hard eggs, cut in slices, a few slices of cucum- ber, and, to vary, a few capers and some fillets of anchovy ; stir lightly, and serve, or use salad sauce, No. 434 If for a dinner, ornament it with some flowers of the nas- turtium and marigold. 440. Crab Salad. — The same as the lobster. I? miains of cold cod, fried soles, halibut, brill, turbot, stur- geon cut as lobster, plaice, &c, may be used in the same way. Ma cheee Eloise, — In the foregoing receipts you will perceive that I have used each salad herb separate, only mixing them with the condiments or with vegetable fruit. I have a strong objection to the almost diabolical mixture of four or five different sorts of salad in one bowl, and then chopping them as fine as possible ; the freshness as well as the flavour of each is destroyed; they agree febout as well together as would brandy and soda water mixed with gin and gingerbeer, for each salad herb has its own particular flavour, and the condiments, which are onions, chives, parsley, chervil, tarra- gon, celery, eschalot, garlic, cucumber, beetroot, &c. &c. are only to give it piquancy like the oil and vinegar, salt, and pepper. Mustard and cress and water cresses may be considered as a slight londiment, but should be used accordingly. It is remarkable that though the inhabitants of this country were for so many centuries (from the nature of the climate) a salad-eating people, yet they seem the least to know how to season them. Until the introduction of RELISHES. 159 the potato, in 1650, and which was first eaten as a sweetmeat, stewed in sack wine and sugar, the various salads were in common use on the tables in Britain, of which country most of the plants ar« indigenous. RELISHES. 441. Herring in IVJiislcy. — Well wash and clean a red herring, wipe it dry and place it in a pie-dish, having cut off the head, and split it in two up the back ; put a gill or two ot whisky over the herring, according to size, hold it on one side of the dish, so that it is covered with the spirit, set it alight, and when it goes out the fish is done. 442. Devilled Bones. — Take the bones of any remaining joint or poultry, which has still some meat on, which cut across slightly, and then make a mixture of mustard, salt, cayenne, and pepper, and one teaspoonful of mushroom ketchup to two of mustard ; rub the bones well with this, and broil rather brownish. MUSHROOMS, OR THE PEARL OF THE FIELDS. I here send you, Eloise, a most sumptuous relish. There is one dish which the Devonshire cottager can procure and enjoy better than even the most wealthy person. It is the mushroom. After having plucked them, perhaps on the road home for his breakfast, broiled them over a nice bright fire, seasoned with a little pepper and salt, and a small bit of butter placed inside of them ; the flavour is then pure and the aroma beautiful, but by accident I discovered a new and excellent way to cook them. Being in Devonshire, at the end of September, and walking across the fields before breakfast to a small farmhouse, I found three very line mushrooms, which I thought would be a treat, but on arriving at the house I found it had no oven, a bad gridiron, and a smoky coal fire. Necessity, they say, is the mother of Invention, I immediately applied to our grand and universal mamma, how I should dress my precious mushrooms, when a gentle whisper came to my ear, and the following was the result. 443. I first cut two good slices of bread, half an inch thick, large enough to cover the bottom of a plate, toasted them, and spread tome Devonshire cream over the toast. I removed all the earthy part from the mushroom, and laid them gently on the toast, heaf? downwards, slightly sprinkled them with salt and pepper, and placeA in each a little of the clotted cream ; I then put a tumbler over each and placed them on a stand before the fire, and kept turning them so as to prevent the glass breaking, and in ten to fifteen unites the glass 160 RELISHES. was filled with vaptftrr, which is the essence of t he mushroom ; when it is taken up, do not remove the glass for a ;ew minutes, hy which time the vapour will have become condensed and gone into the bread, but when it is, the aroma is so powerful as to pervade the whole apartment. The sight, when the glass is removed, is most inviting, its whiteness rivals the everlasting snows of Mont Blanc, and the taste is worthy of Lucullus. "Titellius would never have dined without it ; Apiciuw would never have gone to Greece to seek for crawfish; and had he only half the fortune left when he committed suicide, he would have pre- ferred to have left proud Rome and retire to some villa or cottage to enjoy such an enticing dish. Therefore, modern gourmets, never fancy that you have tasted mushrooms until you have tried this simple and new discovery. [Remember the month — the end of September or the beginning of October. As Devonshire cream is not to be obtained everywhere, use butter, or boil some milk till reduced to cream, with a little salt, pepper, and one clove ; when warm put in an ounce of butter, mixed with a little flour, stir round, put the mushroom on the toast with this sauce, cover with a basin, and place in the oven for half an hour. In this way all kinds of mushrooms will be excellent. They may be put into baking pans : cover with a tumbler as above, and bake in oven. 444. Welsh Rabbit. — Toast a round of bread from a quartern loaf; put about foui ounces of cheese into a small saucepan or pipkin with a teaspoonful of mustard, a little pepper and salt, and a wineglass of ale ; break the cheese small, set it on the fire, and stir until it is melted, when pour over the toast, and serve quickly. 2nd. — Toast a round of bread, and place on it two pieces of cheese, single Gloucester, a quarter of an inch thick ; place it before the fire, and as the cheese melts, spread it over the bread with a knife, also a little cayenne and mustard. 3rd. — Take a penny French roll, cut off a thin slice from one end, and take out some of the crumb and place it in the oven. Melt the cheese as above, and pour it into the roll. It is very good for a journey, or a sportsman, and can be eaten cold. 4>t7i, or Irish Rabbit. — Toast a round of bread ; chop up four ounces of cheese, a small piece of butter, one gherkin, some mustard, pepper, and salt, until it is quite a paste ; spread it CULINARY MISCELLANEOUS. 161 over the toast, and place them in the oven for five minutes, and serve hot. 445. — Mussels may be eaten plain. Put a quart of them in a pan, after being well washed, with some onions cut in slices, also a little parsley ; put them on a sharp fire for ten minutes, when they will all open ; then remove the beard and black part, and eat them plain with some of their juice. 446. Oysters on Toast. — Open twelve very large oysters, put them in a pan with their liquor, a quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper, a wineglass of milk, two cloves, and a small piece of mace, if handy ; boil a few minutes until set, mix one ounce of butter with half an ounce of flour, put it, in small pieces, in the pan, stir round ; when near boiling pour over the toast, and serve. A little sugar and the juice of a lemon, is a great improvement. 447. Oysters, plain scalloped.*— Butter and bread crumb the scallop shell, put in six oysters, season, and bread crumb, then six more, season again, and bread crumb; if a large shell, six more, with a little cayenne and butter, and some of their liquor; cover thick with bread crumbs, put in oven, or on gridiron, for thirty minutes ; brown with salamander, or on a shovel, and serve. These may also be done in patty pans. Pieces of the liver of the cod, put into boiling water and set, may be added to any of the above escalops. 448. Scallops. — Lobsters, crabs, and crayfish must be first boiled, the flesh removed from the shell, and minced, adding a little chopped onion, pepper, salt, and butter, the scallop shell well greased, the flesh of the fish laid in, well bread crumbed, and put in the oven or on the gridiron for thirty minutes, and serve. These require a little more pepper or cayenne than other fish, and a little Chili vinegar may be added. Two spoonfuls of melted butter mixed with the flesh of a lobster makes it very delicious. 449. Hoio to chop Onions. — Few persons know how to chop onions properly. In the first place, all the dry skin must be removed, then a thin slice off the top and bottom, or they will oe bitter, then cut them into thin slices, dividing the onion, and 162 CULINARY MISCELLANEOUS. cut crossways to form dice. If a very slight flavour is required, and the onion is strong, like in the north of England, for it must be remembered that the further north you go, the stronger the flavour of the root ; and if French receipt boohs are exactly copied, it is no wonder that complaints are made ol the preponderance of the flavour of the onion; in which case, when chopped, put them in the corner of a napkin or cloth, trash them in water, squeeze them dry, then put them back on the board, and chop liner ; or sometimes only rubbing the pan or the meat with the onion is quite sufficient. 450. Larding. — The word larding has very often occurred h our receipts ; it may be thought to belong to a style of cooker/ 5 too good for the cottage. On the contrary ; it is an economica, process, and will make lean meat go much farther than with- out it. Get what is called a larding needle, that is, a piece of steel from six to nine inches long, pointed at one end, and having four slits at the other, which will hold a small strip of bacon when put between them. They will perhaps cost tenpence. Cut the pieces of bacon two or three inches long and a quarter to half an inch square, put each one after the other in the pm, insert it in the meat, and leave only half an inch out ; eight pieces to each pound. 451. Bunch of Siveet Herbs. — In many of the receipts is mentioned a bunch of sweet herbs, which consists, for some stews and soups, of a small bunch of parsley, two sprigs of thyme, and one bayleaf; if no parsley, four sprigs of winter savory, six of thyme, and one bayleaf. 452. Bread Crumbs. — Take a piece of the crumb of stale bread not too hard, bruise it with your hand, then pass it through a coarse sieve or cullender, or in cloth; use where required. 453. Browning for Sauces, — Put half a pound of brown sugar into an iron saucepan, and melt it over a moderate fire for about twenty-five minutes, stirring it continually, until quite black, but it must become so by degrees, or too sudden a heaf will make it bitter, then add two quarts of water, and in ten minutes the sugar will be dissolved. Bottle for use. CULINARY MISCELLANEOUS 163 453a. Coloured Water. — Put in a basin a pint of water and two teaspoonfuls of the above sugar browning ; mix well j use where indicated, either for stews, gravies, or sauces. 454. Pease Pudding. — Put a pint of split peas into a cloth, leave room for their swelling, boil in a gallon of soft water ; if good, they will take an hour, but leave them till tender ; pass them through a sieve or cullender, then add a teaspoonful of salt, half of pepper, two ounces of butter, and two eggs, which, if scarce, can be omitted ; beat up, tie again in cloth, boil lor one hour, and serve with boiled pork. Or when plain boiled, and the peas are done, open the cloth, season, mix well, butter a basin, shape in, and serve. 455. How to Boil Bice. — Put one quart of water in a pot, boil it, wash half a pound of rice, and throw it into the boiling water ; boil for ten minutes, or until each grain is rather soft, but separate ; drain it in a colander, put it back in a pot which you have slightly greased with butter, let it swell slowly near the fire, or in the oven, until wanted. A little butter may be added ; each grain will then swell up, and be well separated. 456. Veal Stuffing. — Chop half a pound of suet, put it in a basin with three quarters of a pound of bread crumbs, a tea- spoonful of salt, a quarter of pepper, a little thyme, or lemon peel chopped, three whole eggs, mix well, and use where directed. A pound of bread crumbs and one more egg may be used : it will make it cut firmer. 457. Liver Stuffing. — To the above quantity of stuffing, chop fine four ounces of the liver of either calf, pig, sheep, or lamb, poultry, or game ; mix well and use, adding a little mere seasoning. These stuffings are varied by the mixture of a little cooked nam, anchovies, olives, capers, pickles, or even red herring. In fact, a variety of ways, according to fancy, for any dish you please. 458. Biscuit Balls.— Put in a basin half a pound of suet, three teaspoonfuls of onions chopped fine, one of parsley, half of salt, quarter of pepper, ten tablespoonlals of biscuit powder, !wo passover biscuits soaked in milk or water a few hours before 164 UHAEl Miscri.LANEOUS. using; two eggs to be added. These are exeellent in any thick . and stews of all sorts j make them in balls (ho /a walnut . stew with meat, or boil gently twenty minuted, and use where liked. \ Cod Liver Sf?ffin<7. — Half a pound of raw chopped liver, three quarters ot a pound o( bread crumb or biscuit powder, salt, pepper, and parsley : mix with two whole eggs. Uso as shilling for any kind of iish. 4fi0. Cod Liver Balls. — One pound of liver chopped fine, put r with a pound of fine bread crumbs, two tea- spoonfuls of chopped onions, two of parsley, two of salt, hall one of pepper, a pinch of ground ginger, three eggs : mix all well, make into balls, roll them in Hour, use them with any kind of stewed fish j they will take about thirty minutes to cook slowly. 461. Toad'in-tliC'Uole Batter. — rut into a pan six table- spoonfuls of flour, four eggs, one teaspoonful of salt, half of pepper : mix well with a pint of milk ; mix very smooth, and use where direeted. More milk may be used if liked. A little nutmeg may be used in it. This is as good as pan- cake batter. 402. A Common Batter. — Put in a basin six good table- spoonfuls of flour, which dilute very slowly with one pint of milk, add one spoonful of salt, quarter that of pepper, beat an egg well in it, if used for a toad-in-the-hole. A little parsley, chopped onions, or a little spice, makes an agreeable change ; it will also make nice puddings, if baked alone, or under a joint in a well-greased tin. A Commoner Sort. — For toad-in-the-hole use water, if you have no milk or eggs handy ; a little suet, or fat chopped fine, is an improvement. 463. Hoio to Boil and Dress Maearoni. — rut in an iron pot or stew-pan two quarts of water: let it boil; add two tea- spoonfuls of salt, one ounce of butter: then add one pound of maearoni, boil till tender, let it be rather firm to the touch ; it is then ready for use, either for soup, pudding, or to be dressed with cheese. Drain it in a cullender; put it back in the p»n CULINARY MISCELLANEOUS. 165 add four ounces of cheese or more, a little butter, salt, and pepper ; toss it well together and serve. It will be found light and nutritious, and well worthy the notice of vegetarians. 464 Hoio to Toast Bread. — Procure a nice square loaf that Jias been baked one or two days previously, then with a sharp knife cut off the bottom crust evenly, and then as many slices as you require, about a quarter of an inch in thickness. Contrive to have a clear fire : place a slice of the bread upon a toasting- fork, about an inch from one of the sides, hold it a minute before the fire, then turn it, hold it another minute, by which time the bread will be thoroughly hot, then begin to move it gradually to and fro until the whole surface has assumed a yellowish-brown colour, then turn it again, toasting the other side in the same manner; lay it then upon a hot plate, have some fresh or salt butter, (which must not be too hard, as press- ing it upon the toast would make it heavy,) spread a piece, rather less than an ounce, over, and cut the toast into four or six pieces ; should you require six such slices for a numerous family, about a quarter of a pound of butter would suffice for the whole. You will then h?ve toast made to perfection. 464a. Jam of all kinds.*— Almost all small farmers and cot- tagers have generally some kind of fruit to spare at the end of the season, any of which can be made into jam. Thus, for strawberry jam, pick one pound of strawberries, put them in a pan with three quarters of a pound of white powdered sugar; put the whole on the fire, stir with a wooden spoon, and boil till rather thick ; or try a little on a plate, if it sets. When cold, fill your preserve jars, cover over with strong white paper, and let them remain in a rather cold place. Raspberries and green gooseberries will require a little more boiling, and more sugar. Cranberries, mulberries, cherries, and currants, can all be done the same way. 464b. Currant Jelly. — Put in a pan half a sieve of fresh gathered currants, with the stalks ; add to it a gill of water, put on the fire, and boil till every currant has opened ; then pas.* the Juice through a sieve or cullender, and to every quart put one pound of white sugar ; boil last and skim, and when the preserve begins to stick to the spoon, and is quite clear, fill your preserve $ots, and cover over when cold ; but, to be sure, try some on a 166 niNTS ON TEA, COFFEE, ETC. plate before potting. If it sets well it is done ; a few raspberries added is an improvement. PICKLES. 465. Red Callage. — I perceive in most cottages the garden possesses a few of these exceedingly useful productions ; at some seasons they grow larger than others, when they should bo pickled thus : — Cut them into thin slices, remove the hard stalk, lay them on a slab, cover with salt for twelve hours, turning them now and then, clean off all the salt, and place them in stone jars ; boil some vinegar, and to every quart add one ounce of black pepper, and seven button onions, or two large ones sliced, boil for five minutes, and pour over cabbage ; cover the iar, and let it remain three weeks before using. Onions may be omitted, and only cold vinegar used, but I do not approve of it, being hard and indigestible. A bunch of sweet herbs boiled in the vinegar is an improvement. I send you no other receipts, as mixed pickles can now be bought cheaper than they can be made at home. A FEW ORIGINAL HINTS ON COFFEE, TEA, &c. 466. Simplified Mode of Making Coffee. — Put one ounce of ground coffee in a pan, which place over the fire; keep stirring it until quite hot, but take care ifc dees not burn ; then pour over quickly a quart of boiling water, close it immediately, keep it not far from the fire, but not to simmer; then fill your cup without shaking it ; or pass it through a cloth into a coffee pot, or it may be made some time previous, and warmed again. The grounds can be kept, and boiled for making the coffee of the next day, by which at least a quarter cf an ounce is saved. In country places, where milk is good and cheap, I recommend that half boiled milk should be used with the coffee. The idea of warming coffee is my own, and the economy is full ten per cent. The following is the result of some of my experiments with thi3 system. But I must first tell you that my exertions in the fashion- able quarter of St. Giles's gave great satisfaction to my septuagenarian pupil, whom I taught to cook the ox cheek, and she and several of her neighbours clubbed together to give a fashionable " tea, 3 which of course my vanity made me immediately accept. Having but little confidence in what they would provide, I bought a quarter of a pound of ground coffee, intending giving them a lesson how to make coffee. On my arrival, I was received like a prineess in a fairy landt iilXfS OK TEA, COFFEE, ETC. 1G7 the \\\Kq parlour was not only clean, but ornamented, at the cost of * few pence, with wail flowers from the neighbouring garden (the best in the world, Coven t Garden), generously dispensing their per- fume over pyramids of muffins and crumpets. Having cordially shaken hands with my host, I set cheerfully to work, and got hold of an old pitcher, but clean; in it I put the coffee, and placed it close before the lire, begging the old lady to keep turning it round, and stirring it till the powder \va3 hot. I then poured three quarts of boiling water, allowed it to stand for ten minutes, and then poured it out into the cups, with the best milk that could be got, and sugar. The coffee being partaken of, I put into each cup a good teaspoonful of canister cocoa, with half a teaspoonful oi' sugar, holding the kettle in one hand and a spoon in the other, 1 poured on the water, and kept stirring all the time, adding a little milk. In the meantime I had put one ounce of tea into a large teapot, which I had placed by the side of the tire, in order that the leaves should get hot, so that when the water was poured on them, that they should immediately give forth their aroma. By the time the cocoa had been partaken of, the tea was ready, and it was declared by all the old dames present that they never had had such a cup ot tea, although they bought it at the same shop, and paid the same price; and they could not account for such * legerdemain," but would endeavour to imitate it. I was greatly thanked on my departure, and received the compliment of an old Bhoe being thrown after me; not a French dancing shoe,- but a genuine British bit of solid work, the sole having a very uneven appearance, vnng studded with several dozen of iron nails. Thus terminated the entertainment given to me by these poor but grateful people of the black back street of St. Giles's. I made the cocoa thus, not having sufficient utensils ; but I have found it an economical plan to make the ground cocoa hot, adding a little water, and mixing it smooth with either cold milk or water, it gives it a richness which is not got by the usual system. Place it on the fire, keep stirring, and when just on the point of boiling, serve. Chocolate can be made the same way, only stirring it more, with a Bpoon, ii you have no chocolate pot. In the way of coffee, in my opinion, nothing can be more pure than what I bought the other day from the canister, when walking by chance in the Borough, at the shop of Messrs. White and Fair- child ; and I must, while on this subject, be allowed to state that, in my opinion, a good cup of coffee cannot be made without the intro- duction of a little chicory, although I am aware that seme dealer? imposed on the public by selling an article composed of chicory a* a coffee price. I cannot but admire Messrs. White's plan, which is m no account to sell any ground coffee mixed with chicory, but to selT ft to their customers the one separate from the other. They then M 168 BEVERAGES. recommended to me some canister coffee, patented and prepared only by them. On opening the canister the aroma was very refreshing. On asking how it was roasted (rather a bold question on my part, I admit), he very civilly asked me to follow him to the back of the premises, where some very extensive rooms are fitted up for the purpose of roasting ; he then put some coffee-berries into a cylinder six feet m length and twenty inches in circumference; then put them in a furnace which roasted the berries in a most scientific manner, being turned during the while by the aid of steam power. When suffi- Jiently roasted, the coffee was, while hot, put in a steam mill and ground, being forced from the mill into the canisters and sealed up as soon as possible, and put into stock. I beg to forward you one of the four quarter of a pound packets I bought. On testing it I found that an ounce made one quart of excellent coffee. BEVERAGES. As far as the food of man goes, I believe, dearest, that our duty is almost at an end ; but here is one important item which supports the vitality of man as much as food does, I mean beverages ; in fact, one is inseparable from the other : to drink without eating, or to eat without drinking, would soon send us to an early grave. True, if too much is taken of one or the other, it upsets the digestive organs, and materially affects the functions of that most important part of the human frame, the stomach, which, acting in accordance with the wonderful works of nature, refuses any food or drink that does not accord with its functions. True, bad food and beverages of all kinds are sometimes forced on it ; but then, if it does not disturb its functions immediately, it acts on it gradually, and in course of time entirely destroys its coating or toilette. Is it not, then, important, that great care should be taken in what we eat or drink ? The best of food is often 6poilt by drinking bad beverages. Amongst the higher orders of Society, the pride of an " epicure" is to select the best of wines, which he considers one of his greatest treasures, scientifically classing them to the various courses of his dinner. You probably will again remark, that I am deviating from the purport of our present little work, by alluding to the higher class of living in its pages, while in reality it is intended for the million, and not for the wealthy few. My excuse is, that if a rich gourmet takg go much care in selecting his beverages, why should not a poor house* wife be as particular in choosing her more humble drinks ? Is it not more desirable for the artizan, who cannot afford to drink much beer, to have with his meal a sound clear glass of pure water, full of health and life, than to have a muddy one ? For I have actually se*m peopll 4rink the draining? as they drip frot\\ the roof of a house — the simple BEVETIAGE9. 169 idea of letting it rest for a minute never entering their heads ; or better Itill, to clarify it by passing it through a clean cloth, or giving it a boil, and letting it get cold before drinking, for any doubtful water will improve and get soft by boiling. For those in middling circumstances, who can afford their malt liquor at their meals, pale ale, or light table-beer, or ale, is preferable to any heavy stout, as they facilitate digestion. Since my return from France, there is nothing I miss so much aa that light and cooling drink called by our allies " Vin ordinaire" though I was in hopes that after the great exertions made by several members of parliament, a reduction of the duty on these simple but generous wines would take place, though probably they would not be partaken of to any great extent by the masses, who would not understand their properties, although there is not one Englishman out of twenty who visits France, but who in time takes a liking to these really harmless wines. I do not want to deprive you of your sherry or port before or after dinner; however, recollect that nothing assists digestion and refreshes the palate more than a good glass of light wine ; and therefore it would be a great boon to the public if they could be imported free of duty. To our friend Dr. King I am much indebted, after having had a conversation on the above subject, for his sending to me the other day a case of pure French wine, having, as he stated in his letter, been present while it was drawn from the rough French cask. I was more astonished when he informed me that its price was only twenty-eight shillings per dozen, and was purchased from the famous house of Campbell, of Regent Street, London. It appears that this gentleman pays an annual visit to the different vintages and villages which encompass the banks of the Garonne, and purchases largely from the peasantry, remaining there all the brewing season, and per- sonally superintending its make. The principal wines are called " La Rose," " St. Julien," " Vin de Grave," " Sauterne," " Barsac," and numerous other kinds, all of which are highly recommended by the faculty. Light Amontillado, Rhenish wine, and Bucellas, are aiso commendable at meal-times. For those who cannot afford to buy malt liquors or wines, I hsj o been led to try the following receipts, which will be found extremely useful for people in small circumstances 170 CHEAP DRINKS. A SERIES OF NEW AND CHBAI* DRINKS. 467. Put a gallon of water on to boil, cut up one pound of apples, each one into quarters, put them in thi water, and boil them until they can be pulped, pass the liquor through a cullender, boil it up again with half a pound of brown sugar, scum, and bottle for use, taking care not to cork the bottle, and keep it in a cool place : the apples may be eaten with sugar. Another way. — Bake the apples first, then put them in a gallon pan, add the sugar, and pour boiling water over, let it get cold, pass the liquor as above, and bottle. 4G8. Apple Toast and Water.—k piece of bread, slowly toasted till it gets quite black, and added to the above, makes a very nice and refreshing drink for invalids. 4G9. Apple Barley Water. —A quarter of a pound of pearl barley instead of toast added to the above, and boil for one hour, is also a very nice drink. 470. Apple Mice Water. — Haifa pound of rice, boiled in the above nntil in pulp, passed through a cullender, and drunk when cold. All kinds of fruits may be done the same way. Figs and French plums are excellent ; also raisins. A little ginger, if approved of, may be used. 471. For Spring Drinlc. — Rhubarb, in the same quantities, and done in the same way as apples, adding more sugar, is very cooling. ; Also green gooseberries. 47lA. Lemonade.— Cut in very thin slices three lemons, put them in a basin, add half a pound of sugar, either white or brown ; bruise altogether, add a gallon of water, and stir well. It is then ready. 472. For Slimmer Drinlc. — One pound of red currants, bruised with gome raspberry, half a pound of sugar added to a gallon of cold water, well stirred, allowed to settle, and bottled. 473. Mulberry.— The same, adding a little lemon-peel. A little cream of tartar or citric acid added to these renders them more cooling in summer and spring. ON MARKETING. My t>eab Fiuend, — In most cookery books, which are supposed to be written for the middle classes of society, we find at the beginning, and in large type, directions how to market and choose the best joints of meat, poultry, fish, but rarely vegetables, how all the best, qualities of each should be known, but nothing is said about the second and third qualities, which two-thirds of the people of England consume ; also directions for judging of the finest haunch of mutton, Cl OST MARKETING. 171 jirloin of beef, but nover of the neck or scrag of mutton, or the skirt of beef, or sheep's head, liver, &c. If the directions of those works were strictly followed, one- third of the people would he starving, and a population of dogs (as in Turkey) would have to be kept to eat up the supposed offal. At the present moment our soldiers, as well as those of our allies, the French, are feeding excellently off that which is thrown away by the Turks, the head, feet, &c. &c, of the animal, which is by them declared unclean. Such ought never to be the case in a Christian country, for we may be quite certain that, unless the animal is diseased, all those parts which can be digested is good food for man; but, there may be some who, from over-indulgence in luxuries, have so brought the stomach into that state, that there arc but certain parts of the animal of which they can partake; these persons must, of course, pay higher prices for that kind of meat, and leave the other parts cheaper for thoso having healthy and good digestions to feed on. It is, therefore, our duty here to teach the labourer's and cottager's wife how to buy it cheap, sweet, wholesome, and nutritious. Mutton. — The first quality of mutton ought to be between four cr five years old ; but at present it is rarely got above three, and often under two years. The flesh ought to be a darkish, clear, red colour, the fat firm and white, the meat short and tender when pinched, and ought not to be too fat. Second quality. — The fat is rather spongy, the lean close and rough grained, and a deep red . and the fat adheres firmly to the meat. Third quality. — This is, perhaps, a sheep which has had some disease and recovered; the liver would always show this, but as butchers generally remove it, and do not let it be seen, you cannot judge from it, The flesh will be paler, the fat a faint white, and the flesh loose from the bone ; if very bad and diseased the fat will be yellow, and the lean flabby and moist. To ascertain if it is fresh proceed as for pork. Lamb should be four or five months old, and ought to weigh from thirty to forty pounds ; the fat ought to be white and light in appear- ance, the flesh a faintish white, smooth, and firm to the touch. The second quality is not so well covered with fat, the flesh rather led, the meat softer, and every joint presents a coarser appearance. The third quality is flabby, lean, and red, the fat rather yellow, £nd will keep sweet but a short time. To ascertain if fresh, place the finger between the loin and kidney, end, if moist, or tainted, will be easily ascertained by the smell. Beef. — Most towns and counties in the United Kingdom differ in the kind of cattle brought to market. It is not our duty here to Mention the breed which we think the best, and on which so many JifiVent opinions exist; but the quality of meat depends upon the 172 ON MARKETING. feeding*. The best quality of beef will have an open grain, bright red colour, the fat white, and the bark smooth. Some of the best qualities will have the fat yellow, from being fed on oil- cake; and, unless it has afterwards been fed on turnips, will be wasteful in cooking, although the meat may be tender and rich. The second quality will be close-grained and rather flabby, paler in colour, and the fat a dead white and the bark rough. The third quality, the grain is very close, no streaks of fat between the grain, and of deep brickdust red, tough under the finger, the fat hard and skinny. To ascertain the age, look at the bone or horn which runs through the ribs of beef; if a fine four-year old heifer, this horn or bone will be soft or tender, and becomes harder the older the ox. But the best plan to judge of the flavour of the meat before you do it by eating it, is to look at the tongue of the bullock, and if it is plump and has a clean bright appearance, with the fat at the end of a pinkish white, then the meat will turn out good; but if the tongue should look dark, the fat a dead white, then that meat will eat hard and flavourless,, The same holds good with sheep. Veal, — There is more difficulty in the choice of veal than any other meat, although the general opinion is, it is the easiest. I often hear how white it is, how plump it looks: these are often produced artificially. The preference is usually given to the cow calf, from its being whiter and having the udder; but if a bull call has been properly fed, and killed at about ten weeks old, nothing can be finer in flavour or closer in grain when cooked, and will be much more juicy than the cow calf. The grain should be close, firm, and white, the fat a pinkish white, not a dead white, and the kidneys well covered with thick white fat; that is the first class veal. The second quality is darker in flesh, may be slaughtered in the country, and equally as nourishing as the first; the third quality will have less fat round the kidney, be coarser grained, and the lean red. It is often more nourishing than the very white veal, but not so delicate or digestible. It is caused by the calf being reared in the open air. If the suet under the kidney is soft and clammy the meat is not fresh. The neck is the first joint that becomes tainted. Calves' liver should be firm, and free from gristle or spots ; the heart should be surrounded with fat. When veal has to be kept, it should always be hung up, and nevel allowed to lay on anything, or it soon becomes tainted. TorTc. — The quality of this entirely depends on the feeding. A friend df mine made various experiments, and more particularly on the same litter of pigs, and the various sizes and different flavour of the meat on marketing. 173 was extraordinary. There is one tiling very certain, that whatever a pig is fed upon, it will he much "better in size and quality if kept clean and well washed at least once a week. Those breeds that produce a fine close-grained meat, not too much fat, and that firm, solid, and pinkish white, are the best; if the tongue is clean and full, the animal is well fed and healthy. The second quality of pork may be very good, bur toe tiesb will be hard and red, and the fat a yellow white. The third quality, the meat will be coarse-grained, the fat soft, and the tongue and kidneys discoloured. Measly pork may be known by the little kernels in the fat: it is not allowed to be sold by the butchers, and yet, in many large towns in England, it is openly exposed for sale. If the flesh is clammy and moist, it is not fresh. The best plan to tell the freshness of this, or any meat, is to take with you, in hot weather, to market two wooden skewers, and insert them in the flesh near the bone, and remove them, and the nose will detect it imme- diately; this is much better than touching the meat. These skewers should be scraped after being used. SucJcing Pigs. — The skin should be clear and fresh, the tongue clean, the flesh of a pinkish hue, and not too large in size. Poultry. — The means of telling the various qualities of poultry are well known: the age is known by the spur, and the quality by the skin. There is, perhaps, no poultry in the world that comes up to the well- led Dorking capon. The new breed of Cochin China fowls, of which the best tor eating is the grey kind, if fed and treated in the same way as the Dorking capons, might produce a larger fowl, but it is questionable if so tender. White legged fowls are generally preferred, but there are black ones equally as good. In country places, where chickens are some- times required to be killed in the morning for that day's dinner, it is best to give each, shortly before killing it, a teaspoonful of vinegar, which will cause them to eat tender. This can be done with all kinds of poultry. Geese the same. Duclcs should have the feet supple, the breast fall and hard, and a clear skin. Turkeys should have fine, full, and firm legs, skin white, breast Ml, neck long. Game may be detected by removing the feathers off the under part of the leg, and if the skin is not discoloured, they are fresh. The age may be known by placing the thumb iuto the beak, and holding the bird up with the jaw part of the beak: if it breaks, it is young ; if not, it is old, an* 1 requires kec^ins longer before cooking to be eatable. 17-! KlfCHEH REQUISITES. KITCHEN REQUISITES. As a workman cannot work properly without the requisite tools, or the painter produce the proper shade without the necessary eslcurg, in like manner does every person wishing to economize h»* food, and to cook it properly, require the proper furniture where- with to do it. It is to be hoped that these pages, which have cost me both time and trouble, as well as months of travelling, will be read by many above the class to whom it is more especially dedi- cated ; and that hereafter kitchen utensils may be considered proper to give as a wedding present to a couple commencing housekeeping. Nothing, I am certain, could be given that would be a better pro- moter of peace and happiness in their home. In a superior cottage, which, should it consist of four rooms, the kitchen should be the back one, and not, as is often the case, the Lout one, made into a kitchen and sitting-room, and the back one a washhouse and receptacle for dirt, &c. Whilst I am on this subject, I would remark that, in my opinion, all cottages or houses require, in this climate, a porch, or second door; it would prevent the continued draught and blowing in of the rain and dust, and thus avoid a great deal of illness amongst the inmates, and add greatly to the cleanliness and comfort of the dwelling; but it built upon H.It.H. Prince Albert's plan, they do not require it. The back room should be fitted up with a proper grate, with oven and boiler, and a copper holding at least six gallons. It should have the requisite shelves, and a little sink to hold a tub, and with a tap or pump for water; the latter article I consider the most essential requisite of a cottager's dwelling: it should possess two gridirons, one single, one double, a large and small frying-pan, three black saucepans, holding one gallon, hall gallon, one quart, or a three- legged black pot, instead of the gallon one, a large iron spoon, a ladle, two wooden spoons, a wooden bowl, a cullender, a chopper, a large knife, a baking pan, a rolling pin, a paste brush, a stove brush, two tin tart dishes, three brown basins, six bread tins or pans. A more humble abode, possessing two rooms, or perhaps only one, which latter I disapprove of very much, as there ought to be two in every dwelling, however small* will perhaps not be able to afford so many articles of furniture; in which case I would recommend, as being the most serviceable, the black pot, gridiron, frying-pan, earthen pan, or bew], or spoon, ladle, cullender, chopper, three basins, two tin tart d'.-hes, baking pan, with oven : with these most oi the receipts in these pages may be cooked to perfection. And with the pan, gridiron, and frying-pan, nearly one half of the receipts may lie dj For baking etewing-pam see Appendix. SOYEHS ALl'.lAL COOKiNC STOVE. 175 ON THE SELECTION OP VEGETABLES As regards vegetation in -general, the eye can «oon detect tlie glowing freshness, which nature deposits upon such delicate articles of food a* peas, asparagus, cucumbers, beans, spinach, salads of all kinds; any ol the above will not keep fresh after being cut, longer than twenty-four hours, during the summer, and twice that time in winter. All vegetables should be kept in as cool a place as possible ; still, when the bloom disappears, it is time to make your bargain, as they then can be had cheaper : do not, however, buy any vegetable on any part of which decomposition has commenced to any extent, as if eaten in this state it will be found injurious to health. Vegetables such as cabbage, cauliflower, common greens, carrots, turnip-tops, leeks, celery, artichokes, both globe and Jerusalem, will keep much longer. Another way to ascertain if vegetables are old gathered, is to break a piece off any one with the hand ; if it snaps crisply it is fresh ; i£ on the contrary, it has a flabby appearance, and is of a softish con- sistency, it is stale, and should be bought accordingly. SOYER'S AERIAL COOKING STOVE. My dearest Fkiend, — Wonders will never cease ; and ballooning, I am happy to say, has at last proved itself of some use to humanity, for. no doubt, this ingenious apparatus, which I have now in contem- plation before me, must have sprung out of those atmospheric castles so unsafely built in the air ; but the superiority of this little aerial pigmy is so much above that of his brother monster balloon, that you can have as many ascents in the course of a day as you choose, even with a parachute, without the slightest danger of getting upset; it is capable also of successfully braving the strongest current of air ; and, contrary to all aeronautical notions, its descent is even more agreeable than its ascent, for it actually refreshes and elevates the spirit of the spectators, instead of causing them fear, whilst descending to terra firma. In this unassuming utensil, Eloise, the wealthy epicure and great amateurs of cookery will be able to dress a most recherche dinner before the dining or drawing-room fire, without soiling his apart- ment, apparatus, or even his fingers; the cottager will be able, before nis humble fire, to transmogrify his coarse food to a nice stew, roast, or baked pie to perfection. In every cottage bread will be lighter, and contain more nutri- ment, than when baked in a large oven, in which considerable cvapo* Cition always takes place, T&s little oven has not the slightest resemblance to our magic 176 PLUM-PUDDING FOR THE MILLION. stove, which was made for the wealthy only, and which is now largely fraternizing with our troops and allies, in the war camps in the east. This little apparatus will be dedicated to all classes, but more par- ticularly to the masses, as I think, from the model which I now have before me, it cau be made for a few shillings. I have already tried many receipts in it, all of which have mora than answered my expectations, copies of them will be printed and sold with the apparatus. I have made good soup, and dressed fish and meat of all kinds, as well as vegetables, having also roasted and baked meat, and made sweet and savoury pastry in it. In fact, I may say, that in reality it is almost a complete kitchen in a very small compass, a real petit bijoux de famille, not quite so large as our extensive friend Signor Lablache's favourite hat. A PLUM PUDDING FOR THE MILLION, OR A LUXURY FOR THE ARTISAN. Here is a cheap pudding, adapted not for the millionaire but for the million. No eggs are required, and it costs only sixteen pence to make a good-sized one, enough to supply from ten to twelve people : — Receipt. — Put in a basm a pound of flour, half a pound of stoned ^isins, ditto of currants, ditto of chopped suet, two tablespoonsful of treacle, and half a pint of water. Mix all well, put in a cloth or mould, and boil from four and a half to five hours. Sauce — Melted butter, sugar, and juice of lemon, if handy. A tablespoonful will well sweeten half a pint. A little spice, or a few drops of any essence, or lemon, or peel chopped ; a little brandy, rum, &c. &c, will be an improvement. CAMP RECEIPTS FOR THE ARMY IN THE EAST. (From the Times of the 22nd January, 1855.) No. 1. Camp Soup. — Put half-a-pound of salt pork in a saucepan, two ounces of rice, two pints and a-half of cold water, and, when boiling, let simmer another hour, stirring once or twice; break in six ounces of biscuit, let soak ten minutes ; it is then ready, adding one tca.spoonful of sugar, and a quarter one of pepper, if handy. No. 2. Beef Soup. — Proceed as above, boil an hour longer, adding pint more water. If any flour is handy, make 6ome dumplings thus:— Mix half-a» CAMP RECEIPTS FOR THE ARMY. 177 pound of flour with enough water to form a thick dottgh, divide it into pieces each the size of a small apple, roll them in flour, flatten with your hands; half an hour will cook them; serve round with tho beef. For this receipt half the quantity of biscuit may be used. Soup separate. Note. — Those who can obtain any of the following vegetables will find them a great improvement to the above soups: — Add four ounce3 of either onions, carrots, celery, turnips, leeks, greens, cabbage, or potatoes, previously well washed or peeled, or any of these mixed to make up four ounces, putting th?ui in the pot with the meat. I have used the green tops of leeks and the leaf of celery as well as the stem, and found that for stewing they are preferable to the white part for flavour. The meat being generally salted with rock salt, it ought to be well scraped and washed, or even soaked in water a few hours if convenient; but if the last cannot be done, and the meat is therefore too salt, which would spoil the broth, parboil it for twenty minutes in water, before using for soup, taking care to throw this water away. No. 3. — For fresh beef proceed, as far as the cooking goes, as for salt beef, adding a teaspoonful of salt to the water. No. 4. Pea Soup. — Put in your pot half-a-pound of salt pork, half a pint of peas, three pints of water, one teaspoonful of sugar, half one of pepper, four ounces of vegetables, cut in slices, if to be had; boil gently two hours, or until the peas are tender, as some require boiling longer than others, and serve. No. 5. Steived Fresh Beef and Eice. — Put an ounce of fat in a pot, cut half-a-pound of meat in large dice, add a teaspoonful of salt, half one of sugar, an onion sliced; put on the fire to stew for fifteen minutes, stirring occasionally, then add two ounces of rice, a pint o^ water; stew gently till done, and serve. Any savoury herb will improve the flavour. Fresh pork, veal, or mutton, may be done the same way, and half-a-pound of potatoes used instead of the rice, and, as rations are served out for three days, the whole of the provisions may be cooked at once, as it will keep for some days this time of the year, and is easily warmed up again. Receipts for the Fryingpan. — Those who are fortunate enough to possess a fryingpan will find the following receipts very useful: — Cut in small dice half-a-pound of solid meat, keeping the bones for soup; put your pan, which should be quite clean, on the fire; when hot through, add an ounce of fat, melt it and put in the meat, season with half a teaspoonful of salt; fry for ten minutes, stirring now and then; add a teaspoonful of flour, mix all well, put in half -a pint of water, let simmer for fifteen minutes, pour over a biscuit previously soaked, and serve. The addition of a little pepper and sugar, if handy, is an improve- ment, as is also a pinch of cayenne, curry powder, or spice , saucer 178 e:AMP RECEIPTS FOR THE ARMY. and pickles used in small quantities would be very relishing, and, as these are articles which will keep for any length of time, they woxld De the kind of thing to be sent as presents to the camp. As fresh meat is not easily obtained, any of the cold salt meat may be dressed as above, omitting the salt, and only requires warming a short time; or, for a change, boil the meat plainly, or with greens, or cabbage, or dumplings, as for beef; then the next day cut what is left in small dice — say four ounces — put in a pan an ounce of fat; when very hot, pour in the following: — Mix in a basin a tablcspoonful of flour, moisten with water to form the consistency of thick melted butter, then pour it in the pan, letting it remain for one or two minutes, or until set; put in the meat, shake the pan tc loosen it, turn it over, let it remain a few minutes longer, and serve. To cook bacon, chops, steaks, slices of any kind of meat, salt or fresh sausages, black puddings, &c. — Make the pan very hot, having wiped it clean, add in fat, dripping, butter, or oil, about an ounce of either; put in the meat, turn three or four times, and season with salt and pepper. A few minutes will do it. If the meat is salt, it must be well soaked previously. Good PicMing for Beef and Por/c. — Put in a pan or tub five pounds of salt, three ounces of saltpetre, half a pound of brown sugar for a joint weighing from ten to twelve pounds, rub it well with the above mixture three or four times, letting it remain in pickle for a week; it is then ready for cooking: half an ounce of peppercorns, or a few aromatic herbs, will vary the flavour. Hound of beef, edgebone, breast, flanks, or ox tongues, are the pieces generally salted; small legs, shoulders, and belly of pork, pig's cheek and feet the same. Time your pickling according to size. For plain pickling, omit the sugar and saltpetre. NEW WAY OF MAKING BEEF TEA. Cut a pound of solid beef into small dice, which put into a stew- pan with two small pots of butter, a clove, a small onion sliced, and two saltspoonsful of salt ; stir the meat round over the fire for ten minutes, until it produces a thickish gravy, then add a quart of boil- ing water, and let it simmer at the corner of the fire for half an hour, skimming off every particle of flit ; when done pass through a sieve. I have always had a great objection to passing broth through a clotk as it frequently spoils its flavour. The same, if wanted plain, is done by merely omitting the vege- tables and clove : the butter cannot be objectionable, as it is taken out in skimming; pearl-barley, vermicelli, rice, &c., may be served in it if required. A little leek, celery, or parsley may be added. APPENDIX, ON CARVING JOINTS. Dear Eloise, — I insert the following lesson on that culinary accomplishment, carving, knowing what an important item it is in the art and mystery of cookery, and yet, how few there are who understand that apparently simple art. First, you must truss your joint with taste, and take away any unsightly bone to give it a good shape, more especially the neck, loin, or breast of either veal, mutton, pork, or lamb. For a shilling or so you can purchase a small saw, and instead of letting the butcher divide the bone of a loin of mutton carelessly, saw the bone through at about a distance of half an inch from each other. Ribs of lamb, and breasts of mutton and veal the same. These being most difficult joints to carve, should be sawn carefully. Rcast ribs of beef, and sirloin, ought to be cut thinnish, following, as near as possible, the grain of the meat, which you can soon learn to do by paying a little attention. A little fat and gravy should be served on each plate. Salt beef ought to be cut thinner still. If out of a round or a silver side, cut it even. Cold meat requires to be cut thinner than hot. Iloast fillet of veal, cut as round of beef, helping thin slices of bacon or salt boiled pork ; a little stuffing and gravy to be added. Mutton requires to be cut rather thicker than beef or veal ; pork the same. My way of carving a leg of mutton is by putting one prong of the fork in the knuckle-bone, holding it in the left hand, then I cut five or six slices in a slanting manner, towards me, dividing the first two or three cuts equally amongst all the plates. By this method you keep the meat full of gravy, each slice retaining its portion and it is far better, in an economical point of view, than cutting the joint across the centre, as by this means all the gravy runs out, espe- cially if the meat is over done. Haunch of mutton I carve the same, giving a slice of the loin and one of the leg to each guest. Saddle of mutton should never be cut across the loin if yon study economy. Pass the point of the knife between the back -bone and the meat, then begin at the top and cut as thin chops in a slanting position, each slice about half an inch thick, which will give you a fait 180 APPENDIX. proportion of fat and lean. By this method, you can cut enough for ten to twelve persons, whereas by the other way you only get enough for four or five. For leg of lamb or pork proceed as for mutton, and for loin, ribs, breast, or neck of either, proceed as above, having previously divided it with a saw, which greatly facilitates the carving of thes* joints. SOYER'S BAKING STEWING PAN. Bear Eloise, — Since I sent you the receipt for my new pan, I perceive that very little fat is required with any meat done in it. In the event of stewing fat meat or tripe (which is sometimes un- avoidable), I first, before sending it to the table, remove the fat which rises to the top with a spoon. I must say that the more I use the pan the better I like it. I have had it registered and they are now being manufactured in large quantities by Messrs. Deane and Dray, King William-street, Cifcy, and will doubtless be before the public in s %w weeks, Foi description, see page 69. 4Pi»£S£lX. 181 SEMI-ROASTING IN THE BAKING STEWING PAN. This cut represents a tin pan in which a pudding is placed, and on the trivet a joint of beef, previously boned ; it is suspended from the inside. Potatoes may be baked round the meat, without interfering with the pudding. The pans will consist of three different sizes ; namely, one to hold two quarts, one four, and the other six. Lean meat is preferable to fat for semi-roasting in the baking stewing pan. 4M m m Him n ALARUM, OR COOKING CLOCK. By the aid of this little alarum the housewife will be able to time ber joints, pies, and puddings, to an instant. By winding it up and setting the hand back, starting from twelve, to the time required for the article to cook. Say it is one, and your joint is to be done at three, — move the hand to ten, wind up the spring, and place t\s^ box on the table, giving at the time an impul- sion to the pcndaluaii N.B. The fire must be of a proper heat, or your joint will be eithei under or over-done. They r ive to be purchased at No. 46, Kiaq William Street, City. 182 Appendix. SOYER'S IMPROVED BAKING DISH. The above is a sketch of iny improved Baking-dish, which I have before described at page 94. If the oven is rather slack, the pudding baked in it will require turning; therefore, when well set, remove the grating containing the meat and potatoes, cut your pudding in four pieces, turn each p^-ce, replace the grating, and bake till done. VEGETABLE DRAINER. The above is a sketch of a saucepan, fitted with a perforated pan and a vegetable drainer. This group, though extremely simple, is perhaps one of the most economical cooking utensils ever put before the public, and ought to have a place in every kitchen. It possesses two great qualities, inasmuch as it saves time, and supersedes the tedious method of fishing the greens or cabbage out of the saucepan ; and prevents the now every -day evil of emptying with APPENDIX. 183 the water in which the vegetables have been boiled, a quantity of the material, which by accident might be left in the pot — thereby clogging up the drain, to the annoyance of the household. To be had of Messrs. Deane & Dray, King William Street, City. DIRECTIONS FOR USE. Fit the perforated pan inside the saucepan, half fill it with water, add two teaspooniuls of salt, and when the water boils put in your greens, or whatever else you may cook. Let it boil fast until tender, then lift out the perforator by the handles, and with the crusher press lightly the water out, and serve. To boil pork, bacon, or salt beef, with greens : — When any of these are half done, put in your greens, using only half the quantity of salt ; when ready, dish up the meat, press the broth out, which save for soup for the next day's use. (See Soups.) This represents a model of a Chimney Screw-jack for suspend- ing joints to. Its cost is very trifling, and may be purchased at any ironmonger's. It will fit on any mantel-shelf; and it enables the joint to be shifted nearer or further from the fire, as occasion requires. I have ordered a small tin- screen which folds in three, and will occupy only a small space before the fire, which will greatly increase the heat when in use. 1 cannot give a cut of it in the present edition, as I have not yefc received the drawing. .84 SOYER'S KITCHEN FOR THE ARMY. Puking the period of the famine in Ireland, I took with me a portable kitchen, and erected it opposite the Royal Barracks in Dublin, and with which I cooked and delivered rations for 26,600 persons daily. Having last year taken a peep at the camp at Chobham, as well as the ramp at Satory in France, and seeing, by the ordinary manner in which the provisions for the different messes were cooked, even in France, that a large amount of nutriment of the food was lost, it occurred to me that, if a moveable kitchen could be made to travel with the army, it would be exceed- ingly useful, whilst on the march, or when encamped. The following is an explanation of the above kitchen: The carriage is made of sheet-iron, weighing, with water, fuel, &c, a little more than one ton. The lower part consists of a circular steam boiler, and the upper part of an oven. Over the oven are placed the various par.s containing the rations required to be cooked by steam, and on each side is a hanging shelf, which will also hold steam saucepans in front, and round the driver's seat is a reservoir for water, and a place to hold the condiments, &c. The plan of working it would be to draw it near to a stream or reservoir of water — if brackish or muddy it does not matter* — there till the boiler and reservoir, and remove it to any convenient spot. The fuel may con- sist of wood, coal, turf, &c. &c. Within one hour after the fire is lighted the steam would be up, and the oven hot, and with one six feet long an£ three feet wide, rations for 1000 men could be cooked by baking and steaming in about two hours, and the apparatus moved on again, or it would cook whilst on the march, if on an even road. Its advantages are, saving of time, labour, men, and food, and the cer- tainty that the men could get their food properly cooked. The cost of each apparatus would not exceed 100Z. * Any tainted water is made good by first converting it into steam. 185 OMISSION. I perceive, my dear Eloise, that the various receipts for dressing sprats in a plain way, are minus in the previous editions, as far as the 60th thousand of our very successful Uncle Tom's Kitchen, as our publisher, Mr. Boutledge, calls it, — nearly sixty thousand boohs having been sold in less than six weeks. Let us, therefore, be grateful to the public, and give them the omitted receipts, which I assure you I had in my original manuscript, but which I have in vain endeavoured to fish out of the book. Being food, and good food for the million, when properly dressed, it is most important that these simple receipts should be immediately introduced in this, the 70th thousand, and more especially as those silvery stars of the ocean are daily expected to pay their annual visit to " terra firma," and that on the next Lord Mayor's Day everybody probably will be in a good " moon" to partake of them. And most heartily do I join the opinion of the numerous friends of the late celebrated alderman, when I say that the Citizen Kingship of London has never, and never will be, eclipsed by a better subject of Her Most Gracious Majesty, Queen Victoria. 1st Lesson. Sprats, Semi-fined. — Wipe gently with a cloth a dozen of sprats or more, according to the size of your frying- pan, which requires to be very clean ; place it for a minute or two on the fire, to get hot through ; sprinkle in it about half a teaspoonful of salt to every dozen of middle-size fish, which place immediately in the pan: leave them for two minutes, turn care- fully with the blade of a knife, leave them three or four minutes longer, and serve very hot. To serve them on a napkin is pre- ferable. Addition. — About a quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper, or a little Cayenne; also the juice of lemon, or a drop of vinegar, is a pleasing variation. 2nd. — Dip each sprat in flour, put in the pan a little fat, or oil ; when very hot, put in the fish, which semi-fry as above. They may also be lightly covered with egg and bread-crumbs — or use sifted biscuit, which is a very agreeable variety of dressing them. Another way. — Put them in a tin, with a little lard, oil, or butter, salt and pepper, into the oven. They will take about 18G OMISSION. double the time doing, and will not require turning, which is important. Serve in the tin. You may add chopped parsley and a little lemon, &c. To broil. — Take a skewer long enough to hold a dozen sprats ; dip them lightly in flour ; put the gridiron on as clear a fire as possible, and when hot lay them on for two minutes ; turn them carefully, leave them till done, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve. Sprat Toast just strikes me. — Take a piece of bread nice and crisp, butter it over ; add salt, pepper, and a little mustard, and dish the sprats on it. Sandwich. — Put another similar slice over, cut in four, and serve. You may add to any of the above receipts a little I Harvey's sauce, Chili vinegar, Soyer's relish, or any mild sauce. A little Anchovy paste on the toast would be an improvement. Dearest Eloise, — We have remarked before, and must now ;| repeat it, with Hippocrates, that that which pleases the palate ' nourishes the most. Nothing can be more applicable than these words of far famed antiquity ; and rightly do they apply to a new discovery 1 made whilst in London, about a month back, which I regard as a blessing to the sufferer who is obliged to seek relief from cod-liver oil. I am pleased to tell you that, in lieu of the generally rancid quality of this preparation, I have found it palatable and rather agreeable, in comparison with the other, and far superior to what I tasted at the Hull Infirmary, during a visit there (see pages 41, 42, and 43), which caused me to think of those dishes in which fresh cod-liver is used : but, as these cannot supply the " mass," I must make you acquainted with this "boon for the million:" and T certainly prefer Dr. De Jongh's Light Brown Cod-liver Oil, which approaches in taste as near to that delicacy, the sturgeon " Caviare," as anything I ever tasted, leaving its medicinal properties in the hands of such eminent authorities as Professor Liebig, Wohler, Berzelius, Fouquier, Dr. Jonathan Pereira, &c, and the Analytical Com- missioner of the "Lancet." who so highly speak in its favour. I will in a few days forward, as you requested, the receipt of the celebrated Lancashire Pepper Pot, 1S7' SOYER'S NEW CHRISTMAS EECEIPTS. SOYER'S NEW CHRISTMAS PUDDING. You are right, dearest Hortense, this is by far the most delicate and best plum -pudding I ever tasted, without being, at the same time, too richj the combination of ingredients is perfect, and although there is hardly any difference in the materials used in this to an ordinary plum-pudding, it tasted to me like one made of entirely new ingredients, and I consider it a great acquisition to this, the hundredth thousand of our Shilling Cookery. This receipt, if closely followed, would, at this festive season of the year, save tons of fruit and other expensive ingredients, which are partly wasted for want of knowing how to turn them to the best advantage. Carefully prepare the following previous to mixing the pudding: — Christmas Pudding. — Four ounces of stoned raisins, lour ounces of sultanas, half-a-pound of well-cleaned currants, half-a-pound of beef suet chopped fine, two ounces ot powdered white sugar, two ounces of flour, half-a-pound of bread crumbs, twelve bitter almonds blanched chopped small, half a nutmeg grated, two ounces of candied citron, the peel of half a small lemon chopped fine. When all is prepared separately, put in a basin, break over four eggs, and add half a gill of brandy. Mix these all well the evening before wanted, cover over till the morning, then add half a gill of milk, and well stir your pud- ding; slightly butter a cloth, sprinkle a little flour over, put it in a basin, pour in the mixture, tie your cloth in the usual way, not too tight ; put in half a gallon of boiling water, adding a little more now and then to keep it to half a gallon, let simmer two hours and thirty minutes, turn out of cloth, and serve on a hot dish. After which, when at the dining-room door, pour round a gill of either brandy or rum, which set on fire with a piece of paper; place the dish on the table, let burn half a minute, and pour the following sauce over from the saucer. Cut seven or eight slices from the pud- ding crossways, or according to number, when help, and serve very hot. The sauce I prefer with it is as follows : Make half-a-piut of melted 188 SOYER'S NEW CHRISTMAS RECEIPTS. butter, as No. 410, or ordinary plain melted butter, rather thick, add to it two tea-spoonfuls of sugar, a small glassful of noyeau, the juice of half a lemon, and a pat of butter; stir quick, pour over your pudding when very hot, or serve separate in a sauce-boat. You beg of me a simplified receipt of my Christmas pudding. You cannot expect that it will be as good as the above ; and if I consent to give it you, it is upon the sensible remark that you make to me on this subject, that though it cannot be expected to be as good as the above, yet in its way it will far excel thousands of pud- dings with richer ingredients, which are made at this festive season of the year for want of judgment in the proportion. The above Pudding simplified. — Stone half a pound of common raisins, wash and clean half a pound of currants, half a pound of beef suet chopped fine, two ounces of brown sugar, three ounces of flour, three eggs, half a pound of bread crumbs, half a gill of rum, and a g : .ll of milk. Mix all well the night previous, put in a cloth as above, boil three hours, and serve. Pour over melted butter in which you have put one tablespoonful of sugar and the juice of half a lemon, if handy. Hoiv to vary and improve the Pudding at a trifling expense. — The addition of a little mixed spice or pounded cinnamon, lemon, or orange peel, chopped fine, or a drop or two of any essence, a couple of sharp apples cut in dice, and a few dates or French prunes. Cut the same, using only half the raisins or currants. Observe, Eloise, that I send you this receipt as a dainty dish, or bonne bouche, therefore, if you find it a little complicated in its details, it will at the same time well repay the extra time and trouble, and hardly increase the expense, as I perceive it only costs two shillings and fourpence, and that by buying everything in small quantities. But for those who require plainer puddings, I refer them to receipts No. 234 and the following one, which is still plainer, simpler in its details. As, no doubt, cur readers will fix all their attention on the new receipts for Christmas, it is important to know that some excellent ones are to be found in the body of the book, as being well adapted for this festive season. Some are very economical, to suit persons in such circumstances. For instance, see receipts Nos. 335, 336, 338, 330, 340, 342, 343, 346, 348, 349, and 350. Dear Eloise, — You are aware that any great event in every nation has almost always left behind some national culinary reminis- cence of the circumstance, and many a sanguinary battle is kept alive in our memories, both in youth and age, from our eating either pud- dings or cakes to commemorate it. For instance, the French have their poulet a la Marengo, from that great battle. We have cur Michaelmas goose from Queen Elizabeth's victory over the Spanish SOYEIl's NEW CHRISTMAS RECEIPTS. 189 Armada. Mince pies, pancakes, &c, all have their data. It would not be attempting too much on our part to add another of these everlasting delicacies to the above many, under the glorious title of the " Alma Allied Pudding." And may the palate of the future generation be as gratified with the excellence of this concoction as the ears of the present one has been «vith the announcement of the grand Victory which took birth, under the united flags of two of these great nations; — which will, it is to be hoped, form the rainoow of union and liberty, and illuminate for ever as a mighty meteor the iarkness of despotism. The Alma Pudding. — Make half a pound of bread crumbs, which put in a basin ; add two ounces of sago, six ounces of line chopped suet, five ounces of sugar, four ounces of sultana raisins, six eggs, half a gill of rum, and one tablespoonful of apricot jam. Weil butter the interior of a pudding basin ; add the mixture. Put some water in a sauce-pan, set it on the fire ; when beginning to boil, put in your basin, which ought to be a little more than half immersed in the water. Boil gently on a slow fire for two hours ; take it out, pass the knife between the basin and pudding, and serve. The Sauce. — Putin a small pan two tablespoon sful of apricot jam and two glasses of sherry ; warm gently, when boiling pour over. Now to Ornament the above. — The interior of the basin or mould may be nicely ornamented with currants, green angelica, sultana and Malaga raisins, candied peel, almonds, ginger, &c, &c, which will thinly adhere to the pudding. The first I made 1 ornamented with a sugar drum fixed on the top, the three allied flags passed through, forming a trophy, surrounding it with brandy bails ; a gill of French brandy round it, set on fire, and serve. All the above ornaments may be obtained at a confectioner's. New Christmas Dish. — A most delicious and cheap dish, easily made. — Buy sixpenny worth of light sponge-cake and raspberry rolls, which cut across in slices about half-an-inch thick ; lay them on a small dish in a circle, one lying hair over the other; put in an oven for ten minutes, add in a small stew-pan two tablespoonsful of currant-jelly, two glasses of sherry, put on the fire, and when boiling pour over and serve. Any jam, jelly, or marmalade, will do. Pancake a la De la Pole. — Break four fresh eggs, separate the yolk from the white, which put in two different basins, add to the yoke two tablespoonsful of white pounded sugar, half a one of flour, half the rind of either an orange or lemon, chopped very fine, or a drop of any good essence ; beat the whole together, and then with a whisk whip the white of the eggs as you would for a sponge-cake. This re- quires some practice. When hard and white as snow, mix lightly with the yolk, then have ready a very clean frying-pan, which put on a slow fire, add an ounce of butter, when melted put in two tablespoonsful 01 190 SOYEft's NEW CHRISTMAS RECEIPTS, the batter, let it iry half a minute, then toss it up on the other side, as a pancake, turn it on a dish, use all the batter thus, and when done put them one on the other. Sugar over, bake ten minutes, and serve. While paying a visit in Devonshire, where I invented this dish, I introduced a gill of cream, previously whipped, which made it very delicate. Ordinary cream may be used instead. How to make Mincemeat. — Chop fine one pound of beef suet, four ounces of lean beef previously roasted, half a pound of apples, four ounces of raisins previously stoned; the above articles must be chopped separately ; put them all in a basin, add to it two ounces of candied lemon and orange peel and citron; cut these small, then put in a quarter ounce of mixed spice, four ounces of sugar, mix the whole well together, add in the juice of a lemon, a quarter of a pint of brandy, stir it, put it in a jar, and use when required. Stewed tripe (cold) may be used instead of beef, and half an ounce of bitter almonds and lemon peel. The above, if made one week before Christmas, will answer every purpose, as I wholly object to fermen- tation. Line your patty -pan with puff-paste, No. 315a, fill thee-parts full with mincemeat, cover over with paste, egg over, sugar, and bake. Royal Christmas Fare. — The mince-meat as made at Windsor- Castle every year, the ingredients being mixed one month before wanted, is as follows: 240 lbs. of raisins, 400 lbs. of currants, 200 lbs. of lump sugar, 3 lbs. of cinnamon, 3 lbs. of nutmeg, 3 lbs. of cloves, 3 lbs. of ground allspice, 2 lbs. of ginger, 300 lbs. of beef, 350 lbs. of suet, 24 bushels of apples, 240 lemons, 30 lbs. of cedret, 72 bottles of brandy, 3 lbs. of mace, 60 lbs. of lemon-peel, and 60 lbs. of orange- peel. Neio Style of Mince Vies. — Have ready some mince-pie pans, take some firm butter, cover the inside of each pan with it to the depth of an eighth of an inch, lay on this half an inch of bread crumb, made as No. 452, let it all be of the same depth, then fill your pans with stewed apples, as above, till quite full, then lay on some more bread crumbs, on which put a small piece of butter, and bake for half an hour in en oven, then turn out on a dish. They will be found excellent. You may use any kind of small baking-dish. Apple Toast. — Cut six apples in four quarters each, take the core out, peel and cut them in slices; put in a saucepan an ounce of butter, then throw over the apples about two ounces of white pounded sugar and two tablespoonfuls of water ; put the saucepan on the fire, let it stew quickly, toss them up, or stir with a spoon : a few minutes will do them. When tender, cut two or three slices of bread half an inch thick, put in a frying-pan two ounces of butter, put on the fire ; when the butter is melted, put in your bread, which fry of a nice yellowish colour; when nice and crisp, take them out, place them on a dish, a little white sugar over, the apples about an inch thick. Serve hot. SOYEIt's NEW CHRISTMAS RECEIPTS. 191 2nd Lesson, with Improvements. — Egg the top of the apples, bread-crumb, and put a little butter "over 5 put them in the oven for half an hour, sprinkle over with sugar, aud serve. They are also good cold. A tablespoonful of currant jelly, or any nice jam, or a glass of port, sherry, or brandy poured over is excellent. The bread may be well toasted, buttered, and sugared over, the bread being cut in any shape you may fancy, either round or in dice ; they will dish well in crown shape. A glass of rum or brandy may be placed in the centre and set on fire when sent to table. If served cold, whipped cream may be put over. Amongst my Christmas gifts I must not omit one of the simplest and nicest that I ever concocted. It is at once simple and econo- mical, and should follow the immortal plum-pudding. Neiv Manner of Stewing Pears. — Take six large pears, well ripe, which at this season of the year can be bought for about two pence each, cut each in two lengthways, peel them slightly, put them in a very clean stewpan, cover them over with three ounces of white sugar powdered, slightly peel a lemon, cut the rind into small strips, press the juice on top of the sugar, gently shake the pan, it will dissolve the sugar, then put it on a very slow fire for ten or fifteen minutes, shake it gently once or twice, turn each piece with a fork put it on the fire, and let it stew again for ten minutes. When done, put them on a dish to cool, then dress them on a flat dish, pour the syrup over, and serve. They may also be done in a slow oven. The above varied. — Two teaspoonfuls of currant jelly or jam, marmalade, or orange may be mixed with syrup, or half a glass of either maraschino or brandy. Any kind of pear, if ripe, will do. The core, if large, must be removed. OMISSION. Goose Stuffing.— For a middling sized bird, peel and cut in two, crossways, four large-sized onions, weighing altogether about one pound; slice these rather fine, chop them up with some green sage, or bruise with both hands some dry ; then put in a black pot or pan two ounces of butter, lard, or dripping ; add in the chopped onions two teaspoonsful of sage if green, three if dry, one of salt, one of brown sugar, half one of pepper. Set this on a slow fire, letting it stew for fifteen to twenty minutes ; then with a spoon stuff your bird while the onions are quite hot. This may be done in winter a few days before it is put to the spit, as it imparts to the goose a nice savoury flavour. How to vary the Stiffing. — Four tablespoonsful of bread crumb may be added, or two of broken biscuit, or four of chopped apples, or four of rice, 01 four of cold boiled potatoes, or a little chopped lemon, or a little herbs of almost any kind, or chopped boiled beetroot. 192 1 N D E X. %* In the following Index y the figures tcith the letter p. refer iopaget; the other numbers refer to receipts* Bacon, observations on curing, p. 32 Batter 462 „ for toad in the hole . 461 Beans, see Vegetables Beef, to choose at market, p. 171 „ a-la-mode . . .101 „ plainer . 192 „ cold . . . 166, 193 „ aitch, or edgebone of . 78 „ brisket . . . .78 „ stew in baking pan . .224 „ Carthusian • 111 — 113 „ COllops .... 169 „ curry of . . . . 159 „ hashed . • . 158a „ leg of . . . . 174 „ minced . . 156,158,239 „ pudding . . 233—235 „ „ roast . 237, 238 „ round of . . . .78 „ ribs, salted . . .78 „ „ baked, p. 95 „ „ semi-roasted . . 207 „ baked, p. 94 „ salt . . . .78, 227 „ skirt . . . .78 „ spiced .... 226 „ steak in baking-pan 171 — 173 „ „ to semi-fry 136 — 139a „ pie . . . . 262 „ „ family . . .263 „ „ devilled . . .118 „ „ with eschalot . .118 „ „ important remarks on 117 „ stewed . . . .224 „ ragout of . . .188 „ vegetables with . .175 „ as bubble and squeak .160 Beverages, p. 168 Biscuit balls . , . .458 „ foreign .... 400 Bones, devilled ... 442 Bread, on. L . . . . 4)2 n brown". • .406 Bread, brown rye „ cottage . „ crumb . „ keeping. „ milk „ „ plainer n m rice Broiling, p. 17 Brown gravies Browning. . Butter : — Anchovy Black, or burnt Maitre d'hotel Melted , Cakes : — Almond Apple . Bread apple Cottage Cheese. Eccles . Gallette, poor man „ aristocrat! Gingerbread . Ginger . Milk . Orange . Blain . Blum . „ common Preserve Rice „ plain „ common „ ground . Rock . Soda . Spice . • Sweet . Tipsy . Small cream. Calf s brains . „ feet . IKDEX 103 Calf 8 feet jelly . . 358 Eggs, boiled, plain . . 301 „ head . 87 „ boil, to . . 302 „ heart . . • . 125 „ „ for toast . 303 „ liver, semi-fried 147,190 „ baked . 304 t , „ and heart . 148 „ -bacon and . 307 „ heart, stewed . . 180 „ convent fashion . 303 „ tails . 187 „ mixed . 306 tongue, head, &c. pudding 2 43 „ omelette, or fraise . . 310 Cheesecakes . 329 „ „ with herbs . 311 Chemistry of food, p. 5 „ „ „ bacon . 312 Chickens, see Poultry „ „ ,, oysters and Chopping of onion3 . . 449 shell-fish . . 313 Choice of meat, &c, p. 170 „ omelette, sweet . 314 Coffee .... . 446 „ „ preserves . SI 4 a „ original hints on . 466 n n spirit . 315 Cold meats 161, 166 „ poached . . 305 Coloured water . • 453A „ sausages . 309 Crab, see Shell-fish. Cream, Bohemian . . . 356 Feet, calves . . 87 „ Devonsliire • . 443 „ pig's . 203 „ pastry . . • 387A „ sheep's . : • . 88 „ velvet . • . . 371 Fisn : — „ white » • . . 357 How to boil all kinds, p. 21. Croquettes, rice . 372 How to boil sliced . 55 Crust, fruit . 327 New way . 56 Cottage roasting, p. 90 To cook in oven . . 59 Cookery, ignorance of the poor „ „ Lesson No. 1 . . 60 in, p. 46 Fried, Jewish fashion . . 75 Currant-jelly . 464b Fresh water, p. 23 Curry, fish . 89 Fried, p. 26 „ rabbit . 205 How to ascertain when done, p. 21 „ tripe 165A Brill .... . 52 „ meat . 159 Cod .... . 57 Custard, coffee and chocolate . 362 „ liver . . 103—110 „ farm . . 365 „ sounds and melt 62 66,102 „ plain . . 361 „ hard roe . 101 „ pie-dish, in . . 363 Codlings . 222 „ gooseberry fool . 368 Conger eel . . 61, 66, 222 Cutlets, see Lamb, Mutton, Veal Curry .... . 89 Cheese stirabout . 93 Eels, dried . • . 49 Carthusian of meat and vege- ,, fresh . • 50, 59 tables . 111—114 „ fried . • • . 71 „ stewed . • 38—100 Dinner, our Christmas . . 85 Flounders . • . 47 Dish, an improved baking, p. 94 Fritters . • • . 161 Drinks: — Gurnets 67,222 Apple, &c. . 467—473 Haliibut 66, 222 Dough .... . 340 „ Jewish fashion . 75 Dumplings, apple 347A, 348 „ in oil . 77 „ Virion . 347 Hake .... 62, 66 „ nursery fruit . . 328 Haddock . . 40, 62, 222 „ simple suet . 349 Herring, red . ; 38 „ fresh . 39 71,220 Eggs, on, p. 115 1 Ling ... 62 66,222 „ to ascertain if fresh . 300 [ Mackerel . .42, 43, 44, 45 „ in baking stewpan 220 „ ancients on, p. 115 194 IXDEX. Fish — (omthmrtj Game— (continued.) Mackerel, in pie-d isa . 69 Kabbit curry .205 „ pickled . 70 plain, for invalids . 206 Pilchard . 221 Rook, young, pudding . . 255 Plaice . 60,67, 74 Giblets :o Salads . . ' . 440 Gridiron, what I cau cook with Salmon, salted . 4S my, p. 17 „ fresh . 51 Salt . 57 Haddocks, see Fish Small, to cook . 48 Ham, important observations Sauce . . 45,413 on, p. 32 ... 89 Soles . 72, 73, 47 Herbs, sweet, bunch of . .451 Sprats . . 221 Tench . . 5S Imagination, effect of, p. 63 Turbot . . 53 Irish stew .... Whiting . 61 Iron pot. three-legged, introduc- Jn baking stewpai: i . 21S tion to, p. 2 9 Pieces of in ditto . 219 Eels ditto . 223 Jam . • 464a Puddings . 256 Jelly . . . . 46in „ plainer . 257 „ isinglass and gelatine . 355 „ mackere 1 . 258 „ ealfs-foot. . . .358 „ eel . 259 „ orange . . . .359 Pies . . 266 „ lemon . . .360 Fritters . 161—163 FliUITS: — Kidneys, broiled . . .134 ,, damson ; . 3S4 „ ox . . 177—179 Apple, buttered . 383 ,, pudding . . . 216 „ fritters . 3S1 Kitchen requisites . . .174 „ cake . 392, 396 „ drinks 467—473 Lamb, p. 33 „ rice water ' . 470 „ boiled leg of . . .83 „ stewed, STos 1,2, 3 . 384 M chop . . . .Ml „ sauce . . 414 „ choice of, p. 171 Currant jelly . 464B „ curry . . . .159 Fritters 161—163 „ fry .... 149 Various, stewed . . 3S4 ,, head . . . 115, 194 Frying, on, p. 55 „ heart .... 125 „ pan, p. 4S „ kidneys . . .134 Fry, semi . . 136 „ leg .... 194 ,, Lessons on 140, 141 „ neck . . . .194 ,. roasted, semi . .210 Game: — „ baked .... 231 ilare, toad in the hole . . 215 „ tongue, head, and feet >. jugged . 216 pudding . . .249 ,, „ marinaded. . 217 „ roasting, time for . .231 Larks . . 215 Larding 450 Partridge and cabbage pud- Liver, ox , . . $6,244 ding . . 254 „ cod. . . 101—109 Rabbits, large Dutch . . 204 „ „ stuffing . . .459 llabbit, semi-roasted . 212 „ „ balls . . . .460 „ toad in the hole. . 215 „ calves' . 147, 143, 19C. 244 „ pudding . 251 „ lamb's . . .244,245 „ pie . . 265 „ stuffing . . . .457 „ boiled . . . S4 M semi-fried . . 153 Mackerel, see Fish INDEX. 10-5 Macaroni .... . 403 Pastry — (continued. ) Meats, a series of receipts on . 95 Plain puif . -1 23 a Marketing, on, p. 170 Small . M2 Ileal, Indian poulenta 94, 95 Pease pudding 45 4 Meat, boiled, cold, and br riled „ panada . 92 130, 220 Pickles . 405 curry . 159 PlES, how to make, ] j. 126 „ fritters . 161, 162 „ introduction, p 120 „ minced . 15 6, 158 ,, artisan's pie 268 „ bashed . 158A „ beefiteak 262 „ remains of cold . 166 „ family 2 63 „ puddings. . 233 n veal . 20 4 ,, in baker's oven, p. 93 „ pork . 20 4 ,, toad in the hole . 215 n nsh , 206 „ Cartbnsian 111— lit m hare . , 20 7 ■ ■ see Sauce ,, rabbit . , 205 Mushnnms . . . . 443 „ poor man's . 200 UUTTQ t : — Pig's kidneys . 1«4 146 ,, boiled . . 81 ,, heart 125 180 „ chops . 120, 121 ,, liver 213 ,, cutlets . . 142 ,, brain and tongue 242 „ choice of at market , p. 171 Useful hints on the suckin s-ptei H pudding . 247 p. 83 „ ragout of 97A Poached eggs, see Eggs „ remains of . . 1G8 Pork, to choose, p. 171 „ ragout, brown, of . . 188 „ with apples 196 197 „ roasted, .semi . 208 „ bladebone 215 „ roasting, on . 230, 232 „ chops „ curry 124 145 159 Omelettes, see Eggs „ hashed . 158 Onions, to chop . 449 „ leg, baked, p. 95 Oven, baker's meat, p. 93 „ pie . 264 Ox cheek . 115 „ pudding . 2'50 „ „ toad in the hole . . 215 „ salt 193- -201 „ heart , .12$ 177, 179 „ toad in the hole 215 „ tail . . 176 „ beef, and vegetable s, „ kidneys . 177 Carthusian . 111 „ liver, 1st Lesson on . . 155 „ boiled !'■) „ tongue, potted and braized. 184 „ sausages . . 128 „ „ fresh and pickled . 185 „ black puddings 1$9 „ tripe, curried 165A „ sausages and kidney 3 140 n „ pickled . 165 „ semi-roasted . 209 „ n Lyons way . 164 Poultry , 150 „ ,, toad in the hole . 165 To choose, p. 173 „ „ sauted or serni- fried, Chicken pudding . 25 4 86, 165A Devilled Duck3, p. 173 154 PANCAEE . 380 Fowls . . 150 , 151 Taste, puff 315A Fritters 161 h „ half . 316 Geese, p. 173 „ „ another 316a Pigeons . . . 135 , 152 „ ,, plainer . • . 317 Turkey, boiled 85 „ „ short , 318 „ roasted 211 „ pudding . 319 „ semi-roasted 211 Pastry, on, p.. 119. Roasting 232 Fruiv > » • 320 321, 323 Pudding . . 252 , 253 IDG rsDLX. Puddings : — Puddings — (continued.) Observations on . ; . 236 Dough, with apples . .376 Baked .... . 260 Yorkshire, 1st class . 225, 377 Meat, on . • • . 233 „ 2d do . 37S Beef .... . 234 „ 3d do . 379 „ with kidneys . 235 Roast beef . 237, 238 Relishes : — Mince beef, with eggs . . 239 Bones, devilled 131,132, 44 2 Veal .... . 240 Herring with whisky . . 44 Calves' brain and tongue .241 Mushrooms . . 443 Sheeps', iambs', and pigs' do. 242 Mussels . 445 Calves' head and tongue .243 Oysters on toast . . 440 Lamb, veal, and ox liver .244 „ scalloped . . 447 Do. plainer . . 245 Rabbit, Welsh . 444 Liver and kidney . . 246 „ Irish . 444 Mutton . 247 Scallops . 4.4 8 Sheep's head, tongue, & 3. . 248 Toast broiled and devilled . 133 Lamb . . 249 Rabbits, see Game Pork . . 250 Rice : — Rabbit . . 251 With apples . . 350 Chicken . 252 How to boil . . 455 Pigeon . 253 Cakes . 387, 390, 401 Do. in brown gravy . 253 Bread . . 406 Partridge and cabbage . 254 Croquettes • . 372 Young rook . . 255 Preserve . 350 Fish . . 256 Panada , . 91 Do. plainer . . 257 Pudding . 351 Mackerel . 258 Savoury . 90 Eel . 259 Roasting, on, p. 88 Baked . . 260 How to roast, p. 8 9 Half-steamed . 261 tf by g is, p. 90 Important observations , p. 103 Jack, see Appendi X Cloths, on . 261 Time table for . 91 Sweet, p. 128 Cottage . 90 Plum . . ; i . 334 Semi . . 207 Mould . ._ . . 335 Fruit . • • • 335A Salads, on, p. 155 Curd milk . • . 336 Beans, French . 436 Cqpoa-nut . • . 337 „ Haricot an d lentil 435a Plain rice . • . 338 Beet-root . 436 Spotted dick • f . 339 Brussels sprouts . 43G Apple and paste • , . 341 Cabbage lettuce . 429 Suet . . 342 Celery . . 436 Bread . . 343 Crab . . 410 Brown bread . 344 Cucumber . 43G Bice, vermicelli, and ma caroni 345 Dandelion . . 432 Broken biscuit 344A Endive . . 430 For a large family and school 346 French . . 431 Rice and preserve . 350 Fish . . 439, 440 Ground rice . • . 351 Lettuce, coss . 42S Handy . . 353 Marsh mallow . 432 Young England . . 354 Meat . . 43S Bread, custard, various ways 367 Mustard and cress i , .433 Vgg . . 366 Onions . . 436 Lemon . • . 373 Potatoes *. 437 Potato . . . 375 Poultry . 438 BOSTON COLLEGE 3 9031 021 04350 Soyer •> • - '■' - Is. ibUki21 AUTHOR TITLE A Shi. Lling Cookery For * a sL\\ "T" •172- Bapst Library Boston College Chestnut Kill, Mass. 02167