FIRST DIVISION. 
 
 I. Hemming —Paper 
 Calico ... 
 
 II. Sewing ... 
 
 III. Seaming —Run-and-fell 
 
 Sew-and-fell . 
 
 IV. Stitching —Back Stitch 
 
 Half Back Stitch . 
 
 SECOND DIVISION. 
 
 V. Overcasting —Button-holes . 
 Buttons .... 
 
 VI. Gathering and Fastening-in 
 Gathers . 
 
 VII. Tucking and Trimming 
 
 VIII. Marking —True Stitch 
 Eyelet-hole Stitch . 
 Queen Stitch . 
 
 THIRD DIVISION. 
 
 IX. Mending .... 
 Plain Darn (Stockings, 
 • &c;) . - . 
 
 Twill Darn •— [See also 
 ‘ Tartan Plaid Darn,’ in 
 Specimens] 
 
 Wave Darn . 
 Single-Diamond Darn 
 Bird-eye Darn 
 Double-Diamond Darn . 
 Darn resembling Stocking- 
 
 Patching 
 
 Grafting 
 
 Raising Dropped Stitches 
 Fine-Drawing Cloth 
 
 X. Making .... 
 Herringbone Stitch on 
 Flannel and Muslin 
 Heart Piece . 
 
 Shirt . 
 
 XI. Knitting . 
 
 Stockings 
 Boots for Infants 
 Wrist-Warmers 
 
 utting . ( 
 l ( ’ancy Knitting 
 Another Kind 
 Fancy Knitting, conver- 
 ' tible to Fringe . 
 
 Double Knitting 
 Elastic Knitting . 
 
 To Knit a Stay lace . 
 
 Scotch Knitting 
 Single Open Crochet . 
 
 Double Open Do. . . 
 
 Treble Open Do. 
 
 Double Crochet, suitable 
 for Children’s Jackets . 
 
 On Preparing Straw 
 To Bleach Straw 
 
 XII. Platting —Rustic 
 
 Dunstable . . 
 
 Tuscan or Leghorn . 
 
 FOURTH DIVISION. 
 
 XIII. Muslin 'Work— Satin Stitch 40 
 
 Overlaying* . • . . 
 
 •Veining . - . . . 
 
 Hem Stitch [No. 3] 
 
 Spider Veining 
 Another Sort . 
 
 Feather Stitch 
 Overcasting Edges . 
 
 Seeding or Knotting 
 Tambour 
 
 Open Works —French Vein- 
 
 Second kind 
 Third kind 
 Fourth kind 
 Fifth kind 
 
 XIV. Lace Work —Overlaying, 
 
 Tambours, &c. 
 
 Tracing . 
 
 Open Works 
 Joining Lace 
 XV. Worsted Works 
 Tent Stitch 
 
CLASS. 
 
 XV.— continued. 
 
 Gobelin, or Tapestry 
 Double Cross-stitch 
 Economy Stitch . 
 
 Basket Stitch , . . 
 
 Overlaying . . . 
 
 Embroidering Stitch 
 Raised Work . . . 
 
 Fringe, Knitted 
 Knitted Rugs, Carpets, &c. 
 
 CLASS. 
 
 XVI. Thread Work -Netting . 
 
 Netted Pelerines, or Boa 
 Tippets 
 
 Tatting, Babies’ Dresses . 
 Tape Trimming 
 Neck Chains, Bracelets, 
 Reticules, &c., &c. 
 Braid Chains . 
 
 Cord Chains, Bracelets, or 
 Purses . ... 
 
 Another kind of Reticule 
 or Purse « . 
 
 CUTTING OUT. 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING OUT THE DIFFERENT SPECIMENS 
 OF NEEDLE-WORK. 
 
 Sixth Class . 
 
 Seventh Class 
 Eighth Class . 
 
 Ninth Class . 
 
 Tenth Class . 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING OUT A FEW OF THE MOST SIMPLE 
 ARTICLES OF ATTIRE. 
 
 Frocks and Pelerines 
 Boys’ Dresses 
 Boys’ Bibs . 
 Wrappers for Infants 
 Girls’ Bibs . 
 
 TABLES FOR CUTTING OUT ARTICLES OF APPAREL OF 
 DIFFERENT SIZES. 
 
 721 Boys’ Caps . . . . . . _ 
 
 73 I Caps suitable for either Boys or Girls 77 
 
INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 
 
 The simple directions, for plain and fancy works, which 
 follow, were prepared to accompany the different specimens 
 of work contained in the book, not as presenting anything 
 new or uncommon. The practical knowledge of needle¬ 
 work, with its appendages of cutting out and repairing, 
 &c., &c., must be regarded as very useful to all females, 
 but particularly so to those of the humbler classes, whether 
 applied to domestic purposes, or as a mode of procuring 
 remunerative employment. 
 
 However, the details necessary to describe the various 
 processes can possess little in the way of variety or novelty 
 to recommend them, as the mode of practice remains in¬ 
 variably the same. 
 
 They may, perhaps, render assistance to inexperienced 
 Teachers of National Schools, or may serve to direct the 
 attention of children to the few particulars, which in each 
 stage of proficiency are principally deserving of care. 
 
 It will be a useful practice to have the directions for 
 each class read out for the children by its Monitress on 
 one or two days of the week, and to have the pupils ques¬ 
 tioned occasionally on the substance. Classification of 
 needle-work, and instruction by Monitors, are referred to 
 as being established in most well-regulated schools for the 
 instruction of the poor. The simplicity of these arrange¬ 
 ments, and their easy adaptation to the management of 
 large numbers, have recommended them to very general 
 
6 INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 
 
 adoption; while, in addition to their general utility, the 
 being classed according to proficiency, imposes on every 
 child the necessity of going regularly through the whole 
 course of instruction, instead of being guided in the choice 
 of acquirements by caprice or indolence. 
 
 The usual arrangement of a General Monitress, and 
 subordinate ones, is therefore recommended. The former 
 should cut out and arrange the work, and supply to the lat¬ 
 ter, under the direction of the Teacher, the various matters 
 necessary for the use of the classes. An account should 
 be kept of needles, thimbles, &c., and the Monitresses be 
 held accountable for the loss of materials, as well as for 
 the general order, attention, and proficiency of the pupils. 
 The work, and other requisites for the use of each class, 
 including a furnished needle-book, thimbles, scissors, and 
 a good model of the work, should be placed in small 
 baskets, or work-bags, so that time may not be lost in ap¬ 
 plying for materials, but the business be at once proceeded 
 with. 'When these baskets are brought up at the close of 
 school, their contents should be examined by the General 
 Monitress, and the quantity and quality of the work in 
 each be reviewed, and such a general superintendence 
 of the business of the day maintained, as will enable her 
 to judge of the probable care or neglect with which 
 each party has conducted her business. When girls under¬ 
 take this office, they should try to understand that which 
 they are about to teach. Nothing will render the busi¬ 
 ness of instruction so simple and pleasing to themselves, or 
 so profitable to their pupils, as this knowledge; for we 
 seldom fail to give clear ideas to others of subjects which 
 we perfectly understand ourselves. 
 
 In addition to this it will be necessary to use those 
 means most likely to effect the object they have in view, 
 and to adopt such language as will be most easily under¬ 
 stood. All children cannot be taught by the same methods, 
 or in the same language; and it will be the duty of the 
 
INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 
 
 7 
 
 Monitress to vary the mode of instruction until she per¬ 
 ceive that all clearly know her meaning. 
 
 It is desirable that instruction be given with cheer¬ 
 fulness and good temper; a little reflection will show them 
 the propriety of this course. What now appears simple, 
 was once, perhaps, as difficult to themselves as it now is 
 to the children under their care; and there may yet re¬ 
 main many things of which they require to be informed, 
 and which they trust to learn through the medium of kind¬ 
 ness and indulgence. They will recollect that they are 
 debtors for whatever knowledge they possess; and the 
 desire of doing to others as they would wish others to do 
 to them should lead them to give instruction with the same 
 kindness with which they would like to receive it. 
 
 Impartiality in the conduct of their business is of no 
 small importance to those young Teachers, in sustaining 
 their influence with the Pupils, and securing their confi¬ 
 dence. No preference or dislike should be ever evinced, 
 but their conduct be such as that all may rely on their 
 justice and integrity; and if reproof or complaint be ever 
 necessary, all be led to feel its propriety. It is very 
 injurious to evince partiality for any child in a class, even 
 should the individual be a sister. The child so preferred, 
 instead of being benefited, will, most probably, be led on 
 to carelessness and presumption, while others will be dis¬ 
 couraged and depressed, and, if they detect any act of 
 unfairness, will learn to doubt and undervalue even the 
 most sincere efforts for their improvement. 
 
 Monitresses should try to acquire good and steady 
 habits; to be active, cleanly, and orderly, and should 
 yield ready and cheerful obedience, in their turns, to 
 those who are appointed to teach them; so that, in all 
 things, their example may be profitable to their classes. 
 
 Finally, they ought to use their best exertions to discharge 
 the duties of the office they have undertaken with integrity 
 and faitlifulness, not merely when under the immediate 
 
notice of the Teacher, but when they have reason to suppose 
 her attention to be otherwise engaged; recollecting that 
 they are placed under the observation of an ever-present 
 and all-seeing eye , which it is impossible to deceive or 
 elude. 
 
 Besides, some reward is generally given, of either clothes 
 or money, for the discharge of this office; and if the duties 
 he rendered in a slovenly or negligent manner, a species 
 of fraud is committed ; but the desire of being useful to 
 their fellow-creatures, even in a limited way, should ani¬ 
 mate Teachers, and induce them to do even more than 
 may be required rather than do less. 
 
 When circumstances render it necessary to take in plain- 
 work, with a view to supply funds for the support of a 
 school, the mode of classing the work should, if possible, 
 be adhered to, so as to permit all the children successively 
 to become acquainted with every different sort. Children 
 should be transferred from a lower to a higher class, upon 
 the investigation of the Teacher only, who should examine 
 into the proficiency of each child, by inspecting particular 
 classes upon certain days of the week. This plan will se¬ 
 cure to the industrious the advantage and encouragement 
 which her personal acquaintance with their diligence and 
 proficiency naturally afford; it will operate as a check 
 upon the idle or the indolent; and it will preserve Moni- 
 tresses from partiality in the exercise of their business, or 
 the suspicion of it. Children should not be permitted to 
 resist the authority of Monitresses while discharging the 
 duties of their office; but if they think themselves ag¬ 
 grieved, should have liberty to appeal to the Teacher. 
 Nor should Monitresses be suffered to inflict punishment 
 themselves; but be directed to report circumstances, and 
 leave the issue to her discretion. Much attention should 
 be given to the selection, instruction, and training of 
 Monitresses, both as regards morals, tempers, habits, and 
 general good conduct; considering how much the princi- 
 
9 
 
 INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 9 
 
 pies of the children may be improved or corrupted by 
 their good or evil example, and how much the general 
 utility of the school may be promoted or retarded by their 
 vigilance or supineness. By these means the office will 
 be regarded as an honorable distinction, and the best chil¬ 
 dren will emulously look forward to the enjoyment of it, 
 as the highest reward to which they can aspire while at 
 school, and dread dismissal as the severest punishment to 
 which they can be subjected. 
 
 But the only mode of ensuring an active and a cheer¬ 
 ful obedience, or an efficient discharge of trust, must pro¬ 
 ceed from a sense of duty founded on religious principle. 
 This is the feeling which should form the groundwork of 
 all our actions, and it is this alone which can be safely 
 relied on to give permanent energy to exertion; there¬ 
 fore, both Teachers and Pupils should beg of Him, from 
 whom we derive every good gift, to be actuated by this 
 pure motive, and then faithfully pursue its dictates. 
 
 Directions for cutting out a few of those articles of 
 attire which are in most general use, and least likely to 
 vary in their forms, will be found at the conclusion, to¬ 
 gether with directions for cutting out materials for the use 
 of schools, and conformably to the sizes of the specimens 
 contained in this book. 
 
 They are added in the hope of their affording assistance 
 to inexperienced Teachers, or enabling Patrons of schools 
 for teaching plain work, to form an estimate of the probable 
 expense of such undertakings. 
 

 . 
 
 - 
 
DIRECTIONS FOR NEEDLE-WORK. 
 
 The number of classes for teaching Needle-work will depend 
 upon the number of different kinds of work taught in a school. 
 According to the arrangement adopted in the Female National 
 Model School, there are twelve Classes for plain-works, and four 
 for those of a finer description. These sixteen Classes may be 
 condensed into four Divisions, each Division including four 
 Classes; and if an account of progress be kept, this condensation 
 will be useful to the Teachers of small schools, as it will be suf¬ 
 ficient for them to mark the change from one Division to another, 
 instead of marking each particular advance from Class to Class. 
 
 The works of the First Division consist of the most simple 
 kinds progressively arranged, viz.: 1st Class—Hemming. 2nd— 
 Sewing. 3rd—Seaming. 4th—Stitching. 
 
 The Second Division includes Scholars perfect in the works of 
 the preceding Classes, and capable of practising the nicer kinds 
 of Plain-work. It comprises four Classes, viz.: 5th—Overcasting 
 Button-holes. 6th—Gathering and Fastening-in Gathers. 7th— 
 Tucking and Trimming; and 8th Class—Marking. 
 
 In the Third Division are placed Children still more advanced, 
 who, in the 9th Class, are instructed in the different modes of 
 repair, of table-linen, of stockings, garments, &c., &c. The Girls 
 of the 10th Class are taught to apply the skill, previously acquired 
 in detail, to practical purposes, in the making up of various arti¬ 
 cles of useful clothing. Those of the 11th Class learn several 
 sorts of knitting, and the 12th is formed of a selection from dif¬ 
 ferent classes, who on certain days are taught straw-platting. 
 
 The works of the Fourth Division consist principally of those 
 kinds which are denominated works of taste. They are, therefore, 
 not considered essential to all; and are taught to those only who 
 have been most diligent and successful in their progress through 
 the Plain-work Classes; or to those who, from particular circum¬ 
 stances, seem likely to find such knowledge beneficial or profit¬ 
 able. These Classes are, 13th—Muslin- work ; 14th— Lace-work ; 
 15th—Worsted-work; and 16th—Thread-work, 
 
12 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR NEEDLE-WORK. 
 
 FIRST DIVISION. 
 
 Hemming , Paper and Calico — Sewing, Selvages and 
 Edges—Double Seam, as run-and-fell, and sew-and-fell 
 Seams—Stitching and Knotting. 
 
 The First Class consists of two parts—the first, or lowest part, 
 is formed of such Children as have never before practised 
 needle-work, who are taught the mode of folding a hem, and 
 holding the work and needle, <fec. These practise upon small 
 pieces of soft paper. The second part of this class contains those 
 pupils who are learning to hem. They, as well as all the children 
 of the school, use printed or white calico, with white or coloured 
 thread, so as to form a contrast between the stitches and the 
 material used. 
 
 FIRST CLASS.— (First Part.) 
 
 FOLDING DOWN A HEM AND HEMMING PAPES. 
 
 [See Specimen, No. 1.] 
 
 1. Observe that the paper should be cut quite evenly. 
 
 2. Lay down a fold perfectly even on one side. 
 
 3. Then lay the fold down a second time, the same width as 
 the first. 
 
 4. Turn down two folds of the same kind on the opposite side. 
 
 5. Then two similar folds on one end. 
 
 6. And two of the same kind on the other end. 
 
 By attending to these rules, when hemming articles with four 
 sides, the corners will be all turned alike. 
 
 7. Thread the needle with the right hand, and wear the thimble 
 on the second finger of the same hand. 
 
 8. Hold the needle in the right hand; the work upon the first 
 finger of the left. 
 
 9. At setting in the first stitch, point the needle from you, keep¬ 
 ing the eye next the chest, and leave out a small end of the thread 
 which must be turned in under the hem. 
 
 10. The next stitch, and every succeeding one, should be set 
 in with the needle pointed to the chest. 
 
 If the needle can be used with tolerable ease, and the liem neatly 
 folded down in the manner directed, it will be sufficient in this 
 stage. 
 
DIRECTIONS FOR NEEDLE-WORK. 
 
 13 
 
 FIRST CLASS.— (Second Part.) 
 
 CALICO. 
 
 [See Specimen, No. 2.] 
 
 1. If the piece be a square, fold it like a half handkerchief to 
 try if the sides be of equal length; they should be cut to a thread. 
 
 2. When hemming any article with four sides, be particular to 
 fold down the hems, as directed from No. 2 to 6 in the instructions 
 on the preceding article. 
 
 3. Begin by pointing the needle from you, turn in the end of 
 the thread under the hem, and sew the end of the turn. 
 
 4. As you go ou hemming, point the needle straight to the 
 chest. 
 
 5. When a new thread becomes necessary, cut off the end of 
 the one you have been using, and turn it under the hem: set in 
 the needle pointed from you, and manage the end of new thread 
 in the same manner as the former one. 
 
 6. The hem should be perfectly even, the stitches short, and 
 set in at equal distances. 
 
 7. The thread should be drawn rather tightly, when hemming 
 articles which are cut angularly, such as half handkerchiefs, &c. 
 It is unnecessary to hem muslin so closely as cambric or linen. 
 
 Particular attention should be given to the manner in which 
 children set in the needle, which should always be pointed to the 
 chest, and not to the left shoulder, as they are apt to do. Very 
 young children may be permitted to tack the hem along the 
 middle, to keep it even, until they acquire from practice more 
 complete management of the work. 
 
 SECOND CLASS. 
 
 SEWING. 
 
 [See Specimen, No. 3.1 
 
 1. Place the edges of the work exactly together. 
 
 2. Hold it firmly with the thumb along the side of the first 
 finger of the left hand, and support it with the second and third 
 fingers. 
 
 3. Leave out an end of the thread, and sew it over with the 
 few first stitches. It is improper to use a knot. 
 
 4. Never begin to sew at the point of the finger, but along the 
 side, commencing about the beginning of the nail. 
 
14 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR NEEDLE-WORK. 
 
 5. When a new thread is required, leave an end of the one 
 you have been using, and the same length of the new one. Sew 
 both over neatly and carefully. 
 
 6. Pin the work together at short distances, or tack it slightly, 
 to guard against puckering. 
 
 7. The needle should be set in, with the point straight to the 
 chest, and the stitches just deep enough to ensure the permanence 
 of the seam. 
 
 THIRD CLASS. 
 
 DOUBLE SEAM, OR RUN-AND-FELL. 
 
 [See Specimen, No. 4.] 
 
 1. The raw edges of the parts to be joined should be cut per¬ 
 fectly even, and be free from jagged or loose ends of thread. 
 
 2. Lay the raw edge of one of those parts once down in the 
 same manner as directed for the first fold of a hem. 
 
 3. Place the other part upon it, a thread or two below the 
 double edge, and run them together, make the stitches short, 
 about three threads up and three threads down. The running 
 should be quite even to a thread, and just below the raw edge of 
 the turn, which, if made wide, givest his sort of seam a clumsy 
 appearance. 
 
 4. After the running is finished, the seam should be laid down 
 very smoothly, and hemmed on the other side. 
 
 5. When joining articles which are printed, be careful to place 
 the right sides of the cloth inside. Unless selvages are imperfect, 
 it is unnecessary to turn them down, they should be run only, at 
 a proper distance from the edge. 
 
 DOUBLE SEAM, OR SEW-AND-FELL. 
 
 [See Specimen, No. 6.] 
 
 1. Lay down a fold in the same manner as for run-and-fell 
 seam, turn it back again from you exactly at the raw edge of the 
 turn, so that the fold shall be double. 
 
 2. Lay down a single fold on the second piece, and place the 
 edges of both together, the turns inside. 
 
 3. Then sew them neatly; when finished, lay down the seam 
 very smoothly, and hem the fold on the other side. The sewing 
 should be on the right side of the cloth, the hem on the wrong. 
 
DIRECTIONS FOR NEEDLE-WORK. 
 
 15 
 
 FOURTH CLASS. 
 
 STITCHING. 
 
 [See Specimen, No. 6.] 
 
 1. After seeing that the collar or wristband is even, lay down 
 a fold to stitch to—the depth of this fold will depend upon the 
 distance from the edge at which it is intended to stitch, which is 
 entirely a matter of taste. The fold should always exceed the 
 stitching by a few threads at the least. 
 
 2. Next draw out a short bit of thread near the end of the 
 wristband, and taking it firmly between the thumb and first 
 finger of the right hand, draw it gently along, while with the 
 thumb and first finger of the left, you move on the gathers as they 
 are produced by the drawing out of the thread—the row thus 
 formed will serve as a guide to stitch along. 
 
 3. Pass the needle in at the wrong side, and bring it out on 
 the right side, where you should begin. 
 
 4. The stitch is formed by putting the needle back over two 
 threads, from that with which you work, and passing it under 
 two before; be particular not to leave a thread between the 
 stitches, which quite spoils the appearance of the work. 
 
 The stitches should be drawn close, but not too tightly;' by 
 taking two threads only they will always be proportioned to the 
 material, and will not require to be contracted by pulling the hand. 
 
 1 5. When a new thread is required, pass the needle to the wrong 
 side, and fasten off neatly: then join the new thread, and pa 
 the needle out to the right side, two threads before the last stitch; 
 proceed as before. 
 
 6. After finishing the row, if the other side of the collar or 
 wristband has a raw edge, turn it down; but if a good selvage 
 this will be unnecessary. Next, fold it exactly in the middle 
 and see that the ends are even, or at least that they correspond 
 one with another, as collars and wrists are frequently sloped or 
 rounded off, to suit particular directions; then, either sew the ends 
 neatly, or turn out the wrong side, and run them at a moderate 
 distance from the edge. If, however, sewing be preferred it 
 should be done on the right side, and the right side of the wrist¬ 
 band be kept next you, when doing it. 
 
 7. Then draw a thread on the opposite side of the wristband 
 at the same distance from the edge as the former one, and stitch 
 
16 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR NEEDLE-WORK. 
 
 this row in a similar manner. When making collars or wrists for 
 shirts, of a plain kind, nothing more is necessary; but for practice 
 in schools it is usual to draw threads at regular distances through 
 the entire wristband, to afford practice to learners without increase 
 of expense. 
 
 Knotting may he practised on the spaces between the rows. 
 Half back stitch is done by putting the needle back at every two 
 stitches in running, to give additional strength. 
 
 SECOND DIVISION. 
 
 Overcasting Button-holes—Gathering and Fastening-in 
 
 Gathers — Tucking and Trimming—Marking on 
 
 Canvas, Bolton, $c. 
 
 FIFTH CLASS. 
 
 OVERCASTING BUTTON-HOLES. 
 
 [See Specimen, No. 7.] 
 
 A little more than ordinary attention is required to work 
 button-holes well; they should be cut exactly to a thread, and 
 the length proportioned to the size of the button they are in¬ 
 tended to reach across. Beginners, or small children, may be 
 permitted to tack them round the edges with fine thread to keep 
 those parts neatly together. Specimens for practice are executed 
 in the following manner. 
 
 1. Fold the material to see that it is perfectly even; turn in 
 the raw edges all round; double it, and tack it together slightly. 
 
 2. The work should be held lengthwise on the fore-finger of 
 the left hand, and begun on the side farthest from the point of 
 the finger. 
 
 3. To form the stitch: set in the needle four or five threads 
 from the raw edge, on the wrong side, and bring it out on 
 right. The stitch is made by putting the needle through the loop 
 of the thread, before it is drawn close, keeping the hand upwards, 
 so that the loop may lie along the edge of the button-hole. The 
 keeping up of the loop is essential to give a proper finish to the 
 work. 
 
17 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR NEEDLE-WORK. 17 
 
 4. Fasten in the end of the thread, by working it over with 
 the first few stitches. The stitches should be set in exactly to a 
 thread, and one thread only should lie between them; buttondiole.3 
 should be Worked as nearly to the ends as possible, and then barred, 
 as those are the parts which require particular firmness, or they 
 may be worked completely round, which many prefer. 
 
 5. It is a useful practice to accustom children to take a new 
 thread when learning to work button-holes, so that, if sometimes 
 necessary, they may know how to do so properly; and to ensure 
 this practice, the Monitress should vary the colour of the thread 
 at the joinings. In order to do this securely, fasten off the former 
 thread on the wrong side; the new one is joined by passing the 
 needle through the loop of the last stitch. 
 
 FIFTH CLASS. 
 
 BUTTONS. 
 
 [See Specimen, No. 8.] 
 
 1. Cut lawn, muslin, or calico, into round pieces of whatever size 
 you require; gather each separately round the edge; draw the 
 gathers closely, and be careful to preserve a neat round shape. 
 
 2. Then place two of these together, the fulness inside, and set 
 in a stitch or two in the middle to keep them even; work round the 
 edge in the button-hole stitch, putting the needle in at each stitch 
 on the right side of the button. A small star should be worked in 
 the centre with glossy thread. For most purposes an additional 
 layer or two of cloth will be necessary to give them more firmness. 
 
 Another description of button may be made by winding soft 
 cotton thread round the point of a scissors in a conical shape, then 
 taking it off carefully, hold it between the thumb and finger of 
 the left hand, while you work it over in button-hole stitch, making 
 the centre of the button the part whence all the stitches proceed. 
 
18 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR NEEDLE-WORK. 
 
 '' 
 
 4. Gather on the right side, taking up two threads on the 
 needle, and missing three, or more, if the article be very full. 
 
 5. Four or five stitches maybe taken on the needle at a time; 
 hut it is unnecessary to draw the thread tightly, except at every 
 finger length, and if a new thread be necessary, take it at the 
 half or quarters only. 
 
 6. When the gathering is finished, draw the fulness pretty close 
 and secure the thread by twisting it round a pin. 
 
 7. Then draw the gathers straight, and trace them down care¬ 
 fully with a needle, one at a time. It is necessary to do this 
 with attention, as the material is often very much cut and injured 
 by an injudicious scraping down of the gathers; the neatness of 
 the process, which is indispensable to good stocking-in, consists 
 in placing the gathers side to side, and holding them down firmly 
 and smoothly with the thumb upon the first finger, exactly as 
 they were separately taken up on the needle. 
 
 8. Next divide the wrist or collar in half and quarters, and 
 having opened the gathers a little, pin the corresponding parts of 
 each together, placing the edge of the wrist exactly over the 
 gathering thread, then draw the gathering thread, so as to agree 
 in length with the wrist or collar, and secure the thread by twist¬ 
 ing it round the last pin; it never should be cut until the stock¬ 
 ing-in of the right side is completed. 
 
 9. Hold the work with the thumb upon the first finger of the 
 left hand, the gathers, which should be disturbed as little as pos¬ 
 sible, lying nearly from left to right. 
 
 10. Begin at the end farthest from you,and set in thefirst stitches 
 firmly and neatly, pointing the needle almost along the gathers. 
 
 11. One gather only should be taken up at a time. The wrong 
 side should be set on with equal care, observing to keep the edge 
 of the wrist on that side so as to agree precisely with the edge 
 upon the right. 
 
 SEVENTH CLASS. 
 
 TUCKING AND TRIMMING. 
 
 [See Specimen, No. 10.] 
 
 1. Pare the edges, and hem the square piece, according to the 
 directions for hemming, page 12. 
 
 2. Place the two hems together, and crease the piece along the 
 middle, the double edge should be then turned down, like the 
 

 DIRECTIONS FOR NEEDLE-WORK. 19 
 
 first fold of a liera, then turned back again; the creased line is 
 to serve as a guide in running. 
 
 3. When neatly run along the line, fold at the quarters, and 
 pursue the same methods, running a tuck at each. The frill 
 should be at the least, three times the length of the centre piece, 
 and must be neatly hemmed, then divided at the half and quarters, 
 making a mark at each, and lastly whipped, the rules for which 
 are as as follow. 
 
 4. Having observed that it is even and perfectly free from loose 
 ends of thread, roll in the raw edge of the muslin very tightly 
 with the left thumb upon the first finger of the hand, about eight 
 or ten threads deep, and on the wrong side. 
 
 5. Put the needle in on the right side, which should be next 
 the finger, and bring it out on the wrong side* pointing to the 
 chest. Take the stitches very evenly, and at such distances as 
 to draw easily; the gathering thread, which should be very smooth 
 and strong, may be drawn about every two inches, and the same 
 length of the whip will be sufficient to roll down at a time, which 
 will keep it the more neat and firm. 
 
 6. If a new thread be necessary, it should be taken at the half 
 or quarters, only. 
 
 7. Draw in the fulness; and, having measured the half and 
 quarters, or the more minute divisions, if necessary, pin the corre¬ 
 sponding parts together, regulate the fulness, taking care, if there 
 are corners, to leave an extra quantity there, so as to turn them 
 properly, and sew on the frill, which should be kept next you, 
 when sewing. 
 
 It is necessary to take up every whip in sewing, and the needle 
 should be set in rather aslant, that the thread may lie between 
 them. The neatest mode of sewing on is to take up lightly the 
 top of every whip, instead of putting the needle under the whole 
 depth of the whips. 
 
 EIGHTH CLASS. 
 
 MARKING. 
 
 [See Specimens, Nos. 11 and 12.] 
 
 Marking in cross-stitch, though very much superseded by 
 the use of marking ink, is yet sufficiently useful, and is still so 
 generally practised, as to render a knowledge of the proper mode 
 of doing it an indispensable part of the business of a National 
 
 b 2 
 

 . :tr.$ 
 
 20 DIRECTIONS FOR NEEDLE-WORK. 
 
 School for teaching plain-work. The children of this class may 
 be taught hem-stitch through the medium of the sampler, as 
 the openness of the canvass renders it particularly convenient 
 for that purpose. 
 
 1. After seeing that the sampler is cut evenly, lay the hem 
 down, exactly to a thread , and according to the rules for articles 
 having four sides. 
 
 2. Draw a thread or two close under the hem, on each of the 
 sides; then, having sewed the end of the turn, begin to hem-stitch. 
 
 3. Pass the needle under two threads, and draw it; then put 
 it back, across the same threads, and out through the edge of the 
 hem; this forms the stitch. Muslin or cambric requires to have 
 a greater number of threads drawn ; and also a greater number 
 taken in each stitch. 
 
 4. When the sampler is hemmed, begin the letters, leaving two 
 or four threads between the upper part of the letter and the edge 
 of the hem, and if a row is worked, observe the same rule. 
 
 5. To form the stitch, take two threads each way; put the 
 needle in at the right hand upper corner of these, and passing it 
 aslant under them, bring it out at the left hand lower corner; 
 then put the needle in as before, but bring it out straUjht towards 
 you; and, thirdly, set in one stitch across. 
 
 6. Leave eighteen threads between each row of the coarse 
 sampler; but when marking finer material, the distance must be 
 regulated agreeably to taste. 
 
 7. Begin each letter separately, and work in the end of thread 
 with the first two stitches. The thread should be fastened off, 
 on the wrong side, at the end of each letter, and not carried on 
 from one to another. 
 
 8. Leave two or four threads between each letter or figure of 
 a sampler; but -when marking shirts, cravats, or house-linen, 
 eight or ten threads will be necessary. 
 
 9. The straight letters are the first taught, then the slanting, 
 and lastly the round. The second sampler may contain the 
 letters in their regular order, then thesmall letters and the figures 
 up to 10. When the small letters can be correctly worked, Bol¬ 
 ton may be used. 
 
 Eye-let-hole Marking is done by making a stitch across two 
 threads from the eentre as a fixed point , above, below, on each 
 side, and at each of the four angles. 
 
DIRECTIONS FOR NEEDLE -WOIl It. 
 
 21 
 
 Queen-stitch is done by making a stitch like a back-stitch 
 above, below, and on each side of the four threads which appear 
 in the centre. 
 
 THIRD DIVISION. 
 
 Mending — Making — Knitting — Platting. 
 
 Teachers, conscientiously desirous of promoting the comfort 
 and usefulness of their Pupils, should, as much as possible, 
 encourage them to acquire expertness in those works which have 
 for their object the repair of broken or decayed articles, which 
 must always be a species of knowledge of the utmost value to 
 the families of the poor. 
 
 Before beginning to darn a stocking, or any other article, draw 
 out the rough, jagged edges, so as to contract the size of the hole, 
 and bring the loops or threads as nearly as possible to their 
 original set; then, if the hole be a large one, it will be useful to 
 place either a card or piece of firm paper under it, and to tack 
 it slightly round the edges to the card, with fine thread, which 
 will assist in preserving the shape. It is improper to begin a 
 darn exactly at the edge of the hole ; a few rows should be run 
 beyond it, so far as appears thin. 
 
 NINTH CLASS. 
 
 MAIN DARN. 
 
 [See Specimen, No. 13, and Engravings at the end of the Book.] 
 
 1. Hold the work firmly across the first and second fingers of 
 the left hand; point the needle from the chest, and darn from you, 
 taking up and leaving down a thread alternately. 
 
 2. Then point the needle to the chest, and darn towards you, 
 taking up the threads which were left down in the preceding 
 row, and leaving a loop of the thread at the end of each. 
 
 3. When the warp is formed entirely across the hole, it will 
 be necessary to darn it in a contrary direction, so as to pass across 
 the former threads; in plain darns, take up and leave down a 
 thread alternately, changing the threads each time you go 
 across, and let the threads of the darn correspond, each way, to 
 
22 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR NEEDLE-WORK. 
 
 the threads of the cloth ; the shape of large darns Is better and 
 more easily preserved if the crossing is begun at the middle. 
 
 Stockings should be run on the wrong side, along each row of 
 the stocking as far as necessary, taking up one loop at a time on 
 the needle, and missing two, until the needle is quite full, and 
 leaving a loop of the thread at the end of each row, as washing 
 will contract it. Diaper darning is generally preferred to plain for 
 repairing table linen. Directions are given for the crossing of 
 different diaper darns,which, when referred to, in conjunction with 
 the worked models, will, it is hoped, render the acquirement very 
 simple to learners. Thirty-one threads are included in the scale, 
 and the object of using different colours in forming the warp and 
 weft, is to show off the pattern through the medium of contrast. 
 
 TWILL DARN. 
 
 [Seo Specimen, No. 14.] 
 
 1. Having laid the warp, hold the darn with the threads of 
 the warp lying straight before you, the crossing of each darn 
 is described as beginning at the side next the right hand, and 
 passing back and forward from right to left. 
 
 2. Two threads should be taken up, and two left down, through 
 the crossing of the entire darn : observing, that the same iden¬ 
 tical threads are not meant \ but, in every row after the first, one 
 of those threads which was taken up in the preceding row, and 
 one of those which was then left down. This changing of one 
 thread in each row of the crossing, produces the twill; but it is 
 necessary that the threads should be so taken and left, as to cause 
 the pattern to proceed in the same continuous direction. 
 
 WAVE DARN. 
 
 [See Specimen, No. 15.] 
 
 The first seven rows are done in the same manner as the pre¬ 
 ceding darn. In the eighth row, the direct order in which the 
 taking up and laying down of threads proceeded, is inverted, and 
 those two threads are taken and left which will cause the pattern 
 to assume a direction contrary to that of the first seven rows. 
 This mode is continued for six rows, when again the order is 
 changed, and becomes the same as at the first. The alternate 
 change of the direction of the twill, after a certain number of 
 rows, effects the wavy appearance of the pattern. 
 
I' 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR NEEDLE-WORK. 
 
 SINGLE DIAMOND. 
 
 [See Specimen, No. 16.] 
 
 1st Row. Pass your needle under one thread, over five, and so 
 continue till the first row iS completed. 
 
 2nd Row. Pass over one, under one, over three, under one, 
 over one, under one, again over three, and continue in this man¬ 
 ner to the end of this row. 
 
 3rd Row. Over two, under one, over one, under one, over 
 three, and so continue till the row is finished. 
 
 4th Row. Over three, nnder one, over five, under one, over 
 five, and so on in the same manner as the first row, observing 
 that the beginning and end of this darn are alike, so that in 
 every row it will be necessary to take up or leave down the same 
 number of threads at the end of the row which were taken or left 
 at the commencement. 
 
 5th Row. Corresponds with the third.. 
 
 6th Row. Is the same as the second. 
 
 7th Row. Is similar to the first; and the 
 
 8th Row. Agrees with the sixth. 
 
 The darning must be continued, in the manner described, until 
 all is filled up. 
 
 BIRD-EVE DARN. 
 
 [See Specimen, No. 17.] 
 
 1st Row. Pass your needle under one thread, over two, under 
 one, and over two, to the end of the row. 
 
 2nd Row. Pass your needle over one, under one, over three 
 under one, over one, under one, and again over three, and con¬ 
 tinue in the same manner till the row is finished. 
 
 3rd Row. Pass the needle over two threads, under one, over 
 one, under one, over three, under and over, and under one each 
 time, and again over three, to the end of the row. 
 
 4th Row. Is done in the same manner as the first. 
 
 5th Row. This row agrees with the third. 
 
 6 th Row. Is the same as the second. 
 
 7th Row. Answers to the first. 
 
 The 8th and 9th Rows respectively correspond with the 2nd 
 and 3rd ; and the 10th Row, again, agrees with the 4th. This 
 row forms a complete diamond, and shows the pattern in a per¬ 
 fect state. The darning must be continued in the same manner. 
 
24 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOIt NEEDLE-WORK. 
 
 DOUBLE-DIAMOND DARN. 
 
 [See Specimen, No. 18.] 
 
 1st Row. Pass the ueedle undei’ two threads, over two, under 
 one, over two, under two, over three* again under two, as at the 
 commencement, and proceed in the same manner to the end of the 
 row. 
 
 2nd Row. Left side. Pass over one, under three, over two, 
 under two, over one, under and over, two each time, under three 
 again, and so continue, taking up and leaving down in the same 
 order, observing that the beginning and end of this darn are dis¬ 
 similar • so that when a row begins by talcing up threads, it 
 terminates by leaving down the same number. 
 
 3rd Row. Over two, under two, over one, under two, over 
 two, and under three ; then again over two, as at the first, and 
 pursue the same method until the row is completed. 
 
 4th Row. Left side. Under one, over three, under two, over 
 two, under one, over two, and under two, again over three, from 
 which proceed to the end of the row, observing the same order o 
 taking and leaving, as described from the former three. 
 
 5th Row. Corresponds to the first. 
 
 6tli Row and the 2nd are alike, and the remaining rows are 
 formed by a continuation of the same directions; but the pattern 
 is incomplete until the 15th row, when a perfect diamond appears. 
 
 A DARN WHICH EXACTLY RESEMBLES STOCKING-WEB. 
 
 [See Specimen, No. 19.] 
 
 When the warp is formed, hold the darn across the fingers in 
 the usual manner; it is immaterial at which side the crossing is 
 begun, only observe the following directions :— 
 
 1. If begun at the side next the right hand, put the needle in 
 between the first and second threads of the warp, pass it under 
 the first thread, pointed to the right hand, and draw the thread 
 through, but not very tightly. 
 
 2. Then pass it between the second and third threads, under 
 the second, pointed to the right as before, and draw the thread 
 through in like manner,then between the third and fourth threads, 
 under the third, and so on under each successive thread to the end 
 of the row. 
 
 3. Begin at the left hand side, putting the needle in between 
 the first and second threads, under the first, pointed to the left, 
 
draw the thread through, then between the second and third 
 threads, under the second, pointed as before, and draw the stitch. 
 
 4. Continue in this manner back and forward through each 
 row, until all is filled up. To darn stockings in this way, the 
 warp should be formed across from left to right. 
 
 PATCHING. 
 
 [See Specimen, No. 20.] 
 
 1. Cut the piece, with which you intend to repair, exactly to 
 a thread, and place it on the decayed part to a thread also, and 
 on the right side, taking care, if the article has any pattern, to 
 settle the patch so as to make the patterns correspond. 
 
 2. Then tack it on slightly, to keep it in its place, and sew it 
 at the edges, taking care to manage the corners neatly. 
 
 3. Make the seam very flat and smooth, and carefully cut out 
 the old piece, on the wrong side, leaving sufficient to form a hem. 
 
 4. Nick it a little at the four corners, to make the hem sit 
 neatly at those parts; turn in the raw edges and hem. Allowance 
 must be made for turning in. 
 
 GRAFTING. 
 
 [See Specimen, No. 21.] 
 
 1. Hold the parts to be joined lengthwise over the fore-finger of 
 the left hand, taking care that the loops are even and unbroken 
 fasten the thread on the wrong side. 
 
 2. Take the two loops which lie next each other on the needle, 
 and draw the thread through them. 
 
 3. Take two in a similar manner on the opposite side; continue 
 in this manner, making the last loop which was taken on either 
 side the first of the next stitch. 
 
 Grafting may be done in a manner different from the preceding, 
 and some think the following mode the more simple :— 
 
 1. Hold the parts to be joined between the thumb and fore¬ 
 finger of the left hand, in the same manner as sewing is held, 
 with the loops regularly opposite one to another, and the wrong 
 sides outwards. 
 
 2. Pass the needle, pointed from you, through the two loops 
 which lie opposite to each other on each piece, and draw the 
 thread through them. 
 
 3. Point the needle to you, and, taking up the next loop on the 
 farther piece, pass it a second time through the loop next you. 
 
26 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR NEEDLE-WORK. 
 
 Take up a fresh loop on this side, and pass the needle again 
 through the former. Proceed in this way, taking up a fresh loop 
 on each side alternately. 
 
 TAKING DP DROPPED STITCHES. 
 
 1. Put your hand into the stocking, and hold the ladder over 
 the fore-finger of the left hand, with the loop next you. 
 
 2. Then pass the eye of the needle from you upwards through 
 the loop, and under the first bar of the ladder, taking care not to 
 split or break the threads of either; draw your thread through 
 them, and hold the end under the thumb. 
 
 3. Then turning the eye of the needle towards you, pass it a 
 second time through the loop, and draw the bar of the ladder 
 through it, by holding the thread firmly between the thumb and 
 finger. Repeat this process with every remaining bar, until all 
 are taken up, and fasten the last loop in the manner directed for 
 grafting. 
 
 FINE-DRAWING CLOTH. 
 
 [See Specimen, No. ’22.] 
 
 1. Pare the edges perfectly even, and hold the two parts which 
 are to be joined lengthwise on the fore-finger of the left hand. 
 
 2. Pass the needle pointed frovi you, through the edge of one 
 piece. 
 
 3. Then point it to you, and pass it through the edge of the other. 
 
 The needle should be set in at half the depth of the cloth, the 
 
 stitches drawn closely together, without, however, bringing the 
 one edge over the other. Continue in this way, taking a stitch 
 on each alternate side. 
 
 TENTH CLASS. 
 
 The Tenth Class is appropriated to making-up articles of use¬ 
 ful clothing, before, which, however, one or two preparatory steps 
 are necessary. The making-up of flannel articles requires a know¬ 
 ledge of Herring-bone Stitch, which is, therefore, first practised 
 upon muslin, and, when perfect, upon flannel. 
 
 MUSLIN HERRING-BONE STITCH. 
 
 [See Specimens, Nos. 23 and 24.] 
 
 1. After turning down a fold on each of the four sides of the 
 specimen, draw two threads from each side, about 12 or 14 
 threads asunder, and three or four from the double edge. 
 

 DIRECTIONS FOR NEEDED-WORK.. 
 
 2. Then fold the piece in the middle, drawing two threads, one 
 on each side of it, so as to leave the same number between them 
 which was left at the edge. 
 
 3. Again fold at the quarters, and draw threads in a similar 
 manner. The stitch is formed by putting the needle back four 
 threads from you on one line, and the same number on the other 
 line. 
 
 HEART-PIECE. 
 
 [See Specimen, No. 25.] 
 
 The children of the Tenth Class are also taught to set-in the 
 breast-gusset of a shirt, previously to their making one, as it re¬ 
 quires some little practice to do it neatly; they are furnished with 
 materials to correspond with those used in the annexed specimen, 
 which they are instructed to settle, and then to work. 
 
 The object of the preceding arrangement of classes, and the dis¬ 
 tinct practice of each sort of work, so as to acquire neatness and 
 expertness of execution, may be regarded as so many steps, to 
 prepare children for converting the details to practical purposes, 
 the object of all their acquirements. Accordingly, every child 
 arriving at the Tenth Class is required to make a small shirt, as 
 that article comprises nearly all the different kinds of work 
 which she has previously practised, and is generally regarded as 
 one of the most perfect specimens of plain-work. The children 
 of this class are taught to cut out, and make-up, several other 
 articles of apparel also, such as chemises, frocks, stays, Ac. 
 
 
 
 MAKING A SHIRT. 
 
 [See Specimen, No. 26.] 
 
 The parts of a shirt which require stitching, such as the collar 
 and wrist-bands, should be done first, as directed, page 15, and 
 carefully placed aside, so as to be in readiness when required. The 
 size and shape of these, as well as those of the shoulder-straps, 
 are often different according to the taste or other peculiarities of 
 the persons for whom they are designed, and the most satisfactory 
 mode is to get a shirt as pattern : the thread and work should be 
 kept delicately clean; as dirt not only spoils the appearance of 
 the neatest work, but is almost impossible to be washed out, 
 when engrafted in with the making. 
 
 1st. Fold the body across at the middle, so as to form back and 
 front, and divide it into three equal parts : one-third part is for the 
 
 I 
 
28 
 
 DIRECTION'S ECU NEEDLE- WORK. 
 
 arms to pass through ; another is to form the seams at the sides; 
 and the third is designed to form the opening of the shirt. 
 
 2. Tack on the sleeve-binders before you sew the seams at the 
 sides, placing the selvages, if any, next to the sleeves. 
 
 3. Shirts are always sewed on the right side; accordingly the 
 hem at the ends should be on the contrary side; put in the side- 
 gussets, when set in they should be neatly stitched across from 
 one angle to the other. 
 
 4. Fold the body in two, placing the selvages together, and cut 
 down at the centre to form the opening at the breast. In men’s 
 shirts this opening is usually five nails in length, in smaller shirts 
 it must be regulated according to the sizes, perhaps about one- 
 third part of the whole length. The breast should be either hem¬ 
 med or back-stitched ; if the former, do it on the wrong side; if 
 the latter, it must be done on the right; then set in the small gusset. 
 
 5. The neck-gussets are shaped like a half handkerchief. Place 
 one of the straight sides of a gusset on the shoulder-strap, and 
 pin the strap on the shirt, in the usual manner, with the gusset 
 towards the breast, then cut along the top of the shirt, trans¬ 
 versely on each side of the breast, as far as the right angle of the 
 gusset. 
 
 6. Sew, or stitch in the neck-gussets ; the seams and the raw 
 edges should be on the right side. 
 
 7. Turn down a fold on each side of the shoulder-strap, and 
 draw threads for the stitching, four or five threads from the double 
 edge. 
 
 8. Then fold the strap along the middle, lengthwise, and tack 
 it slightly on the shoulder of the shirt; open, and place it flat 
 upon the shirt, the way in which it is to be stitched. 
 
 9. Cut it at the end next the collar, as far as the angle of the 
 gusset, then separate the two parts, and place one on each side of 
 the neck-gusset over the seams. 
 
 10. Settle the other strap in the same manner, and stitch on 
 both; the raw edges, where the straps were divided, must be 
 turned down, and these parts stitched in the same manner as the 
 others. 
 
 11. The rules for managing shoulder-straps, which are divided 
 at the neck-gusset, refer to single gussets only; for when the 
 gussets are double, a different arrangement takes place. Double 
 neck-gussets are formed from a square-piece folded crosswise, 
 
DIRECTIONS FOR NEEDLE-WORK. 
 
 29 
 
 with half placed on each side of the shirt; the gusset may either 
 he stitched upon the shirt, or the shirt stitched upon it, in two 
 rows of stitching, and the inside part of the gusset hemmed, and 
 neatly fitted to the outside half: in this case the shoulder strap 
 is not cut at the neck, but is placed straight along the centre of 
 the gusset, and then stitched on in the same direction. 
 
 12. Pefore setting on the collar, take off a small slope at the 
 front of the neck and from the middle of the back, and, if the 
 gussets are double, gather each separately ; then gather the neck, 
 and set on the collar; if the gathering thread break, take in a 
 new one at the half or quarters only. White silk, or thread 
 rubbed with white wax, answers best for this purpose. 
 
 13. Hem down the sleeve-binders, and finish them across the 
 ends. 
 
 14. Prepare the sleeves, first hemming the open at the wrist; 
 which should be the same length as the half of the wristband; 
 then gather the sleeves and put on the wristbands ; next join up 
 the sleeves, either by stitch-and-fell, or any other approved mode 
 of double seam, as described, page 14, and set in the small wrist- 
 gussets. 
 
 15. Gather the tops of the sleeves and set them in ; the fulness 
 at the top of the sleeve should correspond, as to space, with that 
 at the wrist. Many persons think it better to put the sleeves 
 in, before setting on the collar; but this is mere matter of 
 discretion. 
 
 16. Next, work the button holes : they should be cut in the left 
 side of the collar, breast, and wristbands ; then sew on the 
 buttons carefully, and mark the shirt over the right side gusset and 
 on the right side. 
 
 17. The hem at the breast, and the shoulder straps, should be 
 set in, without gathers. 
 
 18. Shirts made with full breasts, should have about a third 
 of the fulness set in under the neck gusset, and the shirt be plaited 
 at the lower point of insertion, so that the fulness at the collar and 
 the lower point may correspond in width as nearly as possible. 
 
 It is an improvement to set in a portion of the fulness at the 
 back, under the neck gusset. 
 
 The directions must be regarded as general, rather than such 
 as will suit every case, and they are intended only for plain 
 shirts. 
 
ELEVENTH CLASS. 
 
 KNITTING. 
 
 The arrangement for teaching knitting is very simple : the 
 children of each class,except the first and second, knit on one day 
 of the week, beginning on Monday with the third, and continuing 
 on the other days in the successive order of the classes, so that in 
 the course of the week all the children of the school will have 
 practised. The first and second classes are exempted, from the 
 consideration of their ages and sizes being such, as in general to 
 disqualify them for the successful practice of this sort of work. 
 
 1. Beginners are furnished with two knitting-needles, and a 
 ball of worsted or cotton, and instructed in the mode of casting 
 on the stitches, &c., &c. 
 
 2. When some proficiency in the management of the work is 
 acquired by practice, they are taught to knit stockings and va¬ 
 rious other useful articles. 
 
 KNITTING STOCKINGS. 
 
 [See Specimen, No. 27.] 
 
 1. Stockings, or other articles which are to be knitted round, 
 require three needles to hold the stitches, and one with which to 
 knit them off; an equal number of stitches should be cast on each 
 of the three needles, and an extra stitch upon one of them, to 
 form the seam at the back of the stocking. 
 
 2. After casting on the stitches, knit one round plain. 
 
 3. Then, rib from six to ten rounds, or more if approved, ac¬ 
 cording to the size of the stocking, or the coarseness of the thread. 
 The ribs are formed by turning two or three stitches and knitting 
 the same number plain ; and their use is, to keep the top of the 
 stocking from turning down. Children’s socks require to be rib¬ 
 bed, at least, two inches deep, as it gives elasticity to the tops, 
 and so preserves them from falling. 
 
 4. Turned stitches are formed by bringing the thread with 
 which you knit to the front of the needle, so as to be next you, 
 then, passing the needle through the stitch, cast the thread round 
 it, and turn the stitch back from you; when a sufficient number 
 of stitches have been thus knitted, return the thread to its usual 
 place, and proceed as at first. 
 
 5. It may be observed, as a general rule, that the length of a 
 stocking before the narrowings, should be, at the least, equal to 
 
DIRECTIONS TOR. NEEDLE-WOIIK. 
 
 31 
 
 twice tlie width of the top; so that as many rounds should be 
 knitted, as will correspond to the number of loops on the needles; 
 and for tall persons a still greater length will be necessary. 
 
 6. To give the shape, narrow a stitch on each side of the seam, 
 and always at a turned stitch, knit five rounds plain, between each 
 narrowing, except the last two ; the shape of the stocking will be 
 improved by knitting an additional round or two between these, 
 as the slope will be brought off more gradually. 
 
 7. One stitch should be left between the seam and the nar¬ 
 rowings on each side of it; to narrow before the seam, knit two 
 stitches together; to narrow after the seam, take off the second 
 stitch, and, having knitted the third, cast the former over it; the 
 narrowing on each side at the instep should be done in the same 
 manner. 
 
 8. A full-sized stocking should be reduced by narrowing, nearly 
 one-third part; a child’s not quite so much ; socks for children 
 do not require narrowing, except at the instep. 
 
 9. When the stocking is a proper width at the ankle, continue 
 to knit as many rounds as there are stitches on the needles ; in 
 some cases greater length will be required. 
 
 10. To raise the heel, reckon the stitches, and divide them into 
 half, back and front, so as to form the heel and instep, and place 
 the seam-stitch exactly at the centre of the heel-needle. 
 
 11. Knit the heel in rows back and forward, the alternate 
 rows being plain and turn-stitch, so as to agree with the rest 
 of the stocking, and it should be square before it is closed ; four 
 or five narrowings should be made on each side of the seam, 
 before closing the heel, to give it a little roundness. 
 
 12. To close the heel, divide the stitches at the seam, placing 
 half on each needle ; place these needles together, and, keeping 
 the seam-stitch on a spare needle, take a stitch from each of the 
 former, and knit them together, casting the first over the last, 
 until all are knitted off, and one stitch only remains. 
 
 13. Take up the loops formed on each side of the heel, by 
 knitting a row through them ; and on the second row widen one 
 stitch after every three you knit; the best mode of widening is 
 to knit two stitches in one loop. 
 
 14. Narrow every second round at each instep, until the foot is 
 the same width as the ankle; make a seam along the side of 
 each narrowing, like the seam at the back. This both improves 
 
32 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR NEEDLE-WORK. 
 
 tlie finish of the foot, and serves as a guide for closing the toe; the 
 instep narrowings should be on the heel-sides of these seams. 
 
 15. The length of the foot, from the inner part of the heel to 
 the first narrowing at the toe, should be equal to the width of the 
 stocking at the top. 
 
 16. Then narrow for the toe : double at the seams, leaving the 
 seam-stitch only between them ; narrow twice, leaving three 
 rounds between, twice leaving two, twice leaving one, and then 
 every round, until fourteen or sixteen stitches only remain. 
 
 17. Place these two needles together, and join the toe in the 
 same manner as the heel was done. 
 
 A different mode of closing the toe. See that there are an equal 
 number of stitches on each of the three needles; the first round, 
 narrow at the beginning of each needle ; the next round, narrow 
 at the end only; again, at the beginning only; and so on suc¬ 
 cessively until all are off; leave one stitch plain at the beginning 
 and end of each needle, before and after the narrowings. 
 
 Another mode of closing the heel of a stocking. Knit the nine 
 middle stitches of the heel in rows like the remainder; taking up 
 one of the other loops with the last stitch of every row, until all 
 are taken off; when this sort of heel is finished nine stitches remain. 
 
 BOOTS FOR INFANTS. 
 
 1. An infant’s boot is begun at the sole, and knitted back and 
 forward like a garter, so far as to reach the ankle. 
 
 2. Then rather less than one-half the stitches are left on a spare 
 needle, while the remaining stitches are knitted back and for¬ 
 ward as before, until sufficiently wide to reach across the upper 
 part of the foot. 
 
 3. Then cast on the same number of stitches as are on the spare 
 needle, and make the two sides correspond in every respect. 
 
 4. The stitches across the instep must then be raised and 
 knitted, along with those on the side needles, until the proper 
 length of the leg is added. 
 
 5. Finish, by casting one loop over, another until all are off 
 (fringe may be added across the top), then sew up the sole and 
 back of the leg. Pass a thread through the toe, and draw it to¬ 
 gether to a point. 
 
 By widening and narrowing, a little roundness is given to the 
 heel. There are different other ways of forming the shoes, from 
 
DIRECTIONS FOR NEEDLE-WORK. 
 
 33 
 
 square pieces, then adding the legs, but the former is believed to 
 be the best and most straightforward mode. 
 
 WRIST-WARMERS. 
 
 Wrist-warmers may be knitted, one stitch turned, and one 
 stitch plain through an entire round, and the next round knitted 
 in the same manner, only the order inverted, the plain stitches 
 turned, and the turned ones knitted plain. Or two or three 
 stitches may be turned and plain alternately, for a certain number 
 of rounds, so as to form squares, changing the pattern by turn— 
 stitches under the plain knitting, and plain under the turned. 
 
 Cradle quilts, knitted of coarse white cotton, look well done in 
 this way, then tufted. They might also be knitted in separate 
 squares—some spotted, some striped, and some plain ; these squares 
 being sewed together, so as to produce handsome patterns. 
 
 Children’s woollen leggens with gaiter fronts, inside woollen 
 socks, men’s inside waistcoats with sleeves, gloves, mittens, and a 
 variety of other things, may be knitted by any one who knows 
 how to knit a stocking. They are mentioned only to furnish hints. 
 
 TO CAST ON STITCHES FOR FANCY KNITTING. 
 
 The following will be found to be the best mode of casting on 
 stitches for fancy knitting :—Cast one stitch on a needle in the 
 usual way, and take it in the left hand ; then take another needle 
 in the right hand, as if going to knit a garter, and knit a stitch 
 through that loop; but in drawing the second stitch through the 
 first, you must not drop the latter off the needle (as is the usual 
 way), but keep it still upon it, and place the newly-formed stitch 
 beside ; knit another stitch through the second loop, which must 
 be retained upou the needle in the same manner as the first was, 
 and the new stitch added to it; knit a third stitch also in a similar 
 way, and so proceed until sufficient numbers are thus raised. 
 
 FANCY KNITTING. 
 
 1. Cast on stitches to the size you require; then knit off the first- 
 stitch plain, turn the thread round the right needle, and take off one 
 without knitting; knit the two succeeding stitches, and cast over 
 them the one which was taken off plain ; turn the thread round 
 the right needle again, take off a stitch as before; knit the two 
 
34 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR NEEDEE-WORK. 
 
 following ones, and cast the plain one over them ; continue in this 
 manner to the end of the row; knit the wrong side in turned 
 stitches in the same manner as the heel of a stocking; proceed in 
 the third row in the way directed for the first, and so with every 
 alternate one. 
 
 2. To knit half a handkerchief of this pattern begin as follows.— 
 Cast on three or four stitches only, and widen a stitch every second 
 row ; this is done by casting the thread round the needle at the 
 commencement of each row, on the right side, which forms an ad¬ 
 ditional stitch each time, and, as the work progresses, of course 
 the handkerchief assumes the slanting shape required; when suf¬ 
 ficiently large, take it off the needles, by casting one loop over 
 another until one only remains; draw the thread through this and 
 so finish. All the other directions as to the mode of knitting, given 
 in the preceding description, apply equally to this handkerchief. 
 
 ANOTHER KIND OF FANCY KNITTING. 
 
 1. Cast on stitches to the size you wish to make the article, 
 observing only to have an odd number; knit in rows back and 
 forward like a garter, taking off the first stitch on each side with¬ 
 out knitting. To form the pattern, bring the thread between 
 the needles, and knit two stitches into one; turn in the thread 
 again, and knit two stitches in the same manner; and so on to 
 the end of tho row. 
 
 2. Turn the knitting, and, taking off the first loop, turn in the 
 thread, and proceed in all respects as in the former row; continue 
 each row in this manner. 
 
 3. Different colours may be set in, so as to form stripes, and 
 these stripes shaded from dark to light in each colour. 
 
 4. This pattern can be altered to another very good one, by 
 knitting one plain row between every two, such as described. 
 
 FRINGE. 
 
 [See Specimen, No. 28.] 
 
 1. A pattern, somewhat different from either of the preceding, 
 may be produced by casting on an even number of stitches, and, 
 before commencing to knit, turning the thread round the right 
 needle, so as to f orm a stitch upon it; then knitting the first two 
 stitches oil the left needle into one, but doing so, in the same man¬ 
 ner as the seam-stitch at the back of a stocking. 
 
DIRECTIONS FOR NEEDLE-WORK. 
 
 35 
 
 2. Turn the thread round the right needle again, and knit the 
 two following stitches together in the same way; and so through 
 each successive row. 
 
 3. By casting on eight or ten stitches only, and, when a suffi¬ 
 cient quantity is knitted, drawing the loops one out of another 
 to about half the depth, this sort of knitting can be converted 
 into fringe. 
 
 The greatest possible variety can be produced in knitting by 
 persons having a little taste and ingenuity,, at the same time that 
 the difference between each kind is so very trifling as to render 
 it useless to multiply examples of this sort; and every Teacher’s 
 experience will, no doubt, suggest several fancy kinds in addition 
 to those mentioned. 
 
 DOUBLE KNITTING. 
 
 1. Cast on an even number of loops to the size you require, 
 take off the first loop without knitting it; then turn in the thread 
 towards you, and take off the next loop without knitting also; 
 turn the thread back from you and knit the next loop; bring the 
 thread towards you again, and take off ono without knitting ; 
 turn it back from you and knit the following one; and in this 
 manner continue to the end of the row. 
 
 2. Turn the knitting in the hand like a garter, and knit every 
 second loop as before, observing only to pass over those loops 
 which were knitted the preceding row. 
 
 ELASTIC KNITTING. 
 
 1. Cast on the stitches and do as directed in the three first 
 items of the preceding description ; then, keeping the thread 
 still next you, knit the two succeeding stitches into one. 
 
 2. Again, turn in the thread next you and take off a stitch 
 without knitting; keep the thread still next you, and knit the 
 two next stitches together. 
 
 3. Proceed in this manner through each successive row, back 
 and forward, like a garter; cast on an odd stitch. 
 
 TO KNIT A STAY-LACE. 
 
 Cast on three stitches ; knit them off, and pass them to the 
 contrary end of the right needle ; the thread will then lie at the 
 back of the knitting; begin and knit them off again, and pass 
 them to the opposite end of the needle as before ; and so proceed 
 with every row; a round cord will be produced. 
 
 c 2 
 
.. 
 
 36 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR NEEDLE-WORK. 
 
 SCOTCH OR SHEPHERD S KNITTING. 
 
 [See Specimen, No. 29.] 
 
 1. Take one end of the thread in the left hand, and with the 
 right place another part of the thread over it in the form of a loop. 
 
 2. Draw the thread through this loop, and make as many of 
 them as you require stitches^ they should be drawn pretty closely, 
 and appear like chain-stitch; knit the first and last loops together 
 to join them. 
 
 3. This sort of knitting is done with one needle only, which 
 has a hook on the end, and there never should be more than one 
 stitch on the needle at a time. 
 
 4. Pass the needle through a stitch on the side which is next 
 you; turn the thread over the hook, and draw it through the loop. 
 
 5. Make another stitch, and draw it through in like manner; 
 you will then have a second stitch upon the needle, which must 
 be drawn through the first one, so as to have one only on the 
 needle, and so with every remaining stitch round and round. 
 
 6. To widen, knit two stitches in one loop. To narrow, take 
 two stitches on the needle and knit them as one. An alteration 
 is made in the pattern of the knitting by passing the needle into 
 the stitches on the side farthest from you, and this change may 
 he used to finish off the edges of any article, or to diversify the 
 general appearance. 
 
 This knitting is very generally used for infants’ woollen or 
 cotton shoes. Suspenders may also be knitted in this way, and 
 rendered more elastic, by knitting one stitch and slipping the 
 next upon the needle, without knitting, casting the thread over 
 it to the next stitch. The next row this stitch and its loop should 
 be knitted together, and the stitches which were knitted before 
 should be slipped, and a loop passed over them. 
 
 Note —The preceding may be called the elementary stitch known as 
 “ Crochet Stitch,” and which in the exercise of taste and ingenuity has 
 been latterly applied with much success to the production of almost every 
 variety of article, whether useful or ornamental. There are four varieties 
 of the stitch, including the preceding, which are briefly described for the 
 use of practitioners; leaving the selection to their own choice, guided by 
 the suitableness to the purpose intended. Numberless books are now in 
 use, giving directions and scales for their special application. 
 
 SINGLE OPEN CROCHET. 
 
 Make a chain or foundation as before; commence with one plain stitch, 
 bring the thread round the needle, and pass it through the next loop of 
 
DIRECTIONS EOR NEEDLE-WORK. 
 
 37 
 
 the chain, bringing the thread or silk through. This will produce three 
 stitches on the needle; draw the thread through the two first, which will 
 leave two; draw the thread again through these two. this will produce a 
 long firm stitch; make a chain stitch, miss one of the foundation stitches, 
 repeat the stitch just described alternately with the chain stitch. 
 
 DOUBLE OPEN CROCHET. 
 
 Double open crochet is formed by repeating the preceding stitch twice, 
 making two plain chain stitches, and missing two of the foundation. 
 
 TREBLE OPEN CROCHET. 
 
 Treble open crochet is done in the same way, by making three long 
 stitches in three successive loops, and missing three of the foundation, 
 making three chain stitches over them. In the following rows, the three 
 long stitches are made in the chain stitches and the chain stitches over 
 the three long stitches. This forms a diced pattern. A pretty change 
 can be made in this stitch by putting the three long stitches in one, 
 making one plain chain stitch, and missing three of the foundation or 
 preceding row. In continuing this pattern the three long stitches must 
 be made in one single chain stitch, and the one chain stitch made to come 
 over the three long stitches. 
 
 DOUBLE CROCHET, SUITABLE FOR CHILDREN’S OR LADIES’ JACKETS. 
 
 This stitch may be worked round and round, or in rows; if the latter, 
 the thread must be broken off at every row, as it cannot well be worked 
 backwards and forwards, particularly if a pattern be intended. 
 
 After the foundation is made, you will have one loop on the needle ; 
 insert the latter through the next stitch, and draw the thread through 
 both ; a loop will still be on the needle, and keeping this on, draw your 
 thread through the next stitch and then through both. When a row is 
 completed in this way, draw the thread through the last loop and cut it 
 off, leaving an end of about three inches. When colours are introduced, 
 begin with the ground colour, drawing the thread through the loop, and 
 then passing the short end through: keep any two threads you are using 
 separate, by passing the forefinger between them, and keep the one you 
 arc working with at the top, putting the needle the first part of the stitch 
 under the one you wish concealed, and over it the second, which covers it 
 until it is required. Ridged crochet is a variation on plain double crochet. 
 It is done by taking the loop from the farthest side, instead of the side 
 next you, and working it as in plain crochet. This forms a ridge. 
 
 TWELFTH CLASS. 
 
 ON PREPARING STRAW FOR PLATTING. 
 
 When selecting straw for platting, care should he taken as to 
 the sort and the colour. It is considered that rye straw is the 
 best for platting, but it is more difficult to procure than wheat, 
 which is preferable to any other sort of common straw. It should 
 be picked, carefully , and previous to the straw being threshed. 
 Soft good coloured straws should bo chosen, as free from spots 
 
3.8 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR NEEDLE-WORK. 
 
 and blight as possible. The ears should be cut off with a scissors 
 and then the straw tied up in bundles and removed. 
 
 Prepare as follows:—Each straw will generally cut into three 
 lengths, they should be cut at the joint; these lengths will be of 
 different sizes and thicknesses. They should be sorted into 
 bundles, taking care to put together not only those of the same 
 thickness, but also those of the same length. 
 
 TO BLEACH STRAW. 
 
 Take six quarts of water, and make a strong lather of soap; 
 put in half an ounce of pearl ash, and half an ounce of sugar of 
 lead—the mixture should be quite hot. Wash the straws well 
 in it, keeping them still tied up in little bundles, after which 
 place the bundles in the fumigating box, "which should be air-tight, 
 and shut it down close after having previously lighted the stone 
 brimstone (which should be placed in a deep earthenware receiver), 
 when broken into small pieces. Be careful, when setting the 
 bundles round the box, that they stand firmly, so as not to fall 
 upon the lighted brimstone and catch fire. These bundles should 
 not be tied very tightly, but sufficiently loose to stand out a little, 
 to allow of the steam gaining free access to them. They should 
 remain shut up for twelve or eighteen hours, after which the 
 bundles should be opened, one at a time, cleaned with a cloth, 
 and tied up again ready for platting. 
 
 It is recommended to platters to use the second finger and 
 thumb, when platting, rather than the first finger as this last is 
 useful in assisting to turn the straws, and thus facilitates the 
 work. Avoid wetting the straws, unless absolutely necessary, 
 while platting, as water tends to diminish the glossy appearance 
 afterwards. The straws should be renewed before used too near 
 the end, the joining is more firm ; also avoid, if possible, renewing 
 two straws at the same time, as the plat will be weakened. 
 
 FLATTING RUSTIC. 
 
 [See Specimen, No. BO.] 
 
 1. Easten four straws, place them side to side, turn the straw 
 next the right hand under one and over one, turn the next straw 
 on the same side straight across from right to left, under the two 
 middle ones and over the outside. 
 
DIRECTIONS FOR NEEDLE-WORK. 
 
 39 
 
 2. Next turn tlie same straw from the left side, under one, and 
 over one; and the next straw on the same side straight across 
 from left to right, under the two middle straws and over the out¬ 
 side one; continue in this manner turning twice on each side, 
 remembering when joining on a new straw, to let the ends all lie 
 on the farther side. 
 
 PLATTING DUNSTABLE. 
 
 [See Specimen, No. 31.] 
 
 1. Fasten seven straws, keep four on one side and three on the 
 other; turn the outside fourth straw under one and over two. 
 
 2. Then, on the other side, turn the outside straw under one, 
 over two, and so on, each side alternately. 
 
 PLATTING TUSCAN. 
 
 [See Specimen, No. 3‘2.] 
 
 1. Join eleven straws ; keep six to the right hand and five to 
 the left; place them side to side, and turn the straw next the 
 right hand under one, over two, and under two. 
 
 2. Then on the left side turn the outside straw under one, over 
 two, and under two; continue in this manner on each alternate side. 
 
 The only difference between this plat and the Leghorn is, that 
 the latter consists of thirteen straws instead of eleven, and that the 
 outside straw is passed under two straws instead of one. Since 
 these plats have begun to be sewed in rows one over the other 
 like straw plat, the joining-in of fresh straws should be at the 
 one side of the plat. 
 
 When desirable to introduce any particular sort of work 
 into a school, as spinning, knitting, straw-platting, making lace, 
 embroidery, or any other sort which circumstances may render 
 profitable, it will be most expedient to select scholars from differ¬ 
 ent classes, and to form them into a separate one, under the direc¬ 
 tion of a competent Teacher. The association with their equals 
 will be likely to lead to a spirit of emulation, at the came time 
 that the general order and arrangement of the school will be pre¬ 
 served unimpaired, and their number may be augmented from 
 time to time. If possible, they should be permitted to join the 
 other classes on certain days of the week, so as to improve them¬ 
 selves in the knowledge of plain work generally, which to every 
 person must be an acquirement of paramount importance. 
 
40 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR NEEDLE-WORK. 
 
 FOURTH DIVISION. 
 
 Muslin Work—Lace Work — Worsted Work — 
 Thread Work. 
 
 In giving directions for the several works included in the 
 Fourth Division of Needle-work, it seems necessary to observe it 
 is not intended that they should be practised generally in schools 
 for the instruction of the poor, to whom such employments would, 
 for the most part, be utterly useless, and consequently a grievous 
 misapplication of time. They should never be taught to any 
 child of that class who was not a perfectly good plain-worker , 
 and capable of cutting out and making up most of the articles of 
 useful clothing usually made by females. 
 
 But as it is to be hoped that several such cases will occur, and 
 also circumstances which may render such acquirements not only 
 permissible but desirable for particular individuals, and princi¬ 
 pally indeed for the benefit of inexperienced Teachers, it was 
 thought they might be deserving of a place after the more useful 
 matter had been disposed of. 
 
 THIRTEENTH CLASS. 
 
 SATIN STITCH. 
 
 [See Specimens, 33 and 3t.] 
 
 1. Draw the pattern, and carefully trace each stem, leaf, and 
 flower, so as to preserve the shape quite correctly. The small 
 light round hoops now in use, tend greatly to assist those who 
 practise this and other such fancy works, as they keep the 
 material in an even position, and are easily managed in the hand. 
 Care should be taken to place the muslin upon the inner one, 
 with the threads, both of warp and weft, lying quite straight each 
 way. For some sorts of work shining boss is preferred to French 
 cotton ; but the latter answers much better for such articles as 
 will require frequent washing. 
 
 2. After the tracing, each leaf should be filled up a little, before 
 commencing the satin stitch, by making a few stitches back and 
 forward, from the stem nearly to the point; taking care not to 
 injure the shape of the leaf by filling too near to either. This 
 gives the work a raised, full appearance, and if properly done, is 
 a great improvement. The principal things to be attended to in 
 
DIRECTIONS FOR NEEDLE-WORK. 
 
 41 
 
 working satin stitch, are to make the leaves of a neat slender 
 shape, to bring them off delicately to the point, and to set in the 
 stitches closely, drawing the thread through gently and equally 
 at every stitch. Expertness and neatness will depend chiefly 
 upon practice, and it is also of importance to have good patterns. 
 
 OVERLAYING. 
 
 Overlaying on muslin or lace, is done by laying a slip of either 
 thin muslin or Scotch cambric over a leaf or flower, and tracing 
 out the shape very accurately. Then sewing over the edges 
 closely with fine thread, keeping a coarse thread in the left hand, 
 exactly on the edge of the leaf, and so, as to lie under the sewing, 
 and be fastened in with it. This defines, and gives a finish to 
 the edges of the leaf. Fasten olF securely, and carefully cut 
 away the superfluous cambric, so that the leaf or flower only, 
 shall appear doubled. 
 
 VEINING. 
 
 1. Draw out threads to whatever width you desire, then, with 
 very fine thread in your needle, sew over the edges on each side 
 of the open space, to keep those threads from spreading out of 
 their places in future washings. 
 
 2. Hold the work on the first finger of the left hand with the 
 open threads strained across it; take four or any even number of 
 threads together at one edge, and pass the needle twice across 
 them, so as to tie them as it were together. 
 
 3. Then with the point of the needle separate them at the 
 middle, and pass the needle under one-half, slanting to the other 
 edge of the open space; make a stitch there across them, and under 
 as many fresh ones. A stitch must then be set in across loth, to 
 tie them together. 
 
 4. Again, separate the fresh threads from the others, slanting 
 the needle to the opposite edge, where an equal number of new 
 ones must be added to the stitch, and bound together in the same 
 manner as before, and so continue on each alternate side. 
 
 SPIDER VEINING. 
 
 1. Draw out threads, and sew over the edges on each side of 
 the open space, so as to unite two or three threads together at 
 every stitch (like hem-stitch), and take exactly the same threads 
 on each side. 
 
42 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR NEEDLE-WORK. 
 
 2. Then draw three or four of these bars together, and make 
 several stitches across them at the centre, with soft Moravian 
 cotton. Take the same number of bars again, to form another 
 stitch, and unite them in the same manner, and so on. Fasten 
 off each separately and securely. The open space should be, at 
 least, double the width of ordinary veining. 
 
 VEINING.—THIRD SORT. 
 
 Another sort of veining may be done as follows :— 
 
 1. Draw the threads and pursue the plans directed in the first 
 item of the preceding article. 
 
 2. Then holding the bars across the finger, pass the needle 
 pointed from you under one bar and over another, so as to draw 
 the latter in, under the former. 
 
 3. Do the same with the two next bars, and so on with every 
 two bars, simply drawing your thread, and letting it remain 
 passed through them, at the centre of the open space. 
 
 FEATHER STITCH. 
 
 This stitch is best calculated for large leaves and showy 
 patterns ; it is done in the following manner : Plaving drawn the 
 pattern, begin at the stem and work from the centre of the leaf. 
 
 1. Make a stitch from the middle , in a slanting direction on 
 one side. 
 
 2. Then a stitch on the other side, bringing out the needle 
 each time exactly so as to form the vein which runs up through 
 the centre of a leaf. 
 
 Or it may be done almost exclusively on the right side; taking 
 a stitch from the centre of a leaf to the edge ; and if the stitch 
 be considered too long, the needle may be passed across it, in one 
 or two places, so as to confine it. 
 
 This work fills up quickly, and the shape of the leaves is easily 
 preserved. 
 
 OVERCASTING EDGES. 
 
 1. Trace out the pattern designed for the edge. Then hold 
 the work on the first finger of the left hand. 
 
 2. Begin near the thumb and work towards the point of the 
 finger. The stitch is the same as that used for button-holes, 
 except that the looping or edge is inverted , 
 
DIRECTIONS FOR NEEDLE-WORK. 
 
 43 
 
 3. Be careful to do the work closely oyer the tracing, to define 
 neatly any points or curves which the pattern presents, and to cut 
 off the superfluous muslin from the edge without injuring the work. 
 
 SEEDING OR KNOTTING. 
 
 A stitch of this kind is sometimes used on muslin works, 
 which is done in the following manner :— 
 
 1. Fasten the thread, and take the work between the thumb 
 and first finger of the left hand. 
 
 2. Pass the thread round the point of the thumb, and out 
 under it, holding down the loop thus formed. 
 
 3. Then pass the needle between the loop and the thumb, 
 down through the material upon which you work, and out, so as 
 to form the next stitch. 
 
 4. Draw the loop thus formed close round the needle before 
 removing it to the next stitch. Shining boss, or a full thread of 
 Moravian cotton should be used. 
 
 TAMBOUR. 
 
 This work appears like a chain in close successive links. It is 
 done with a needle having a small hook on the end, and after a 
 little practice in the stitch, goes on very quickly. It is not so 
 much used now as formerly, but many very pretty things are still 
 worked in this way with silk or worsted of different colours, on 
 thin muslin or lace of either black or white grounds. The work 
 is placed in a frame, and done by holding the needle in the right 
 hand on the upper side of the frame, and the thread in the left 
 hand under it. 
 
 1. Pass the needle down through the lace or muslin, catch the 
 thread upon the hook, and bring it up to the upper side ; then, 
 still keeping the loop on the hook, make a short stitch, passing 
 the needle down, and again drawing up the thread through the 
 centre of the loop. 
 
 2. Make another stitch in the same manner, and so continue; 
 carefully following the pattern, which should be drawn before 
 the work is begun. 
 
 3. To fasten off, draw the last loop down to the wrong side, 
 break off the thread, and pass it once or twice through it; then 
 draw it close. 
 
 4. If necessary to pass from one part of a stem, or leaf, to 
 another part, draw down the loop in the same manner, pass your 
 
44 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR NEEDLE-WORK. 
 
 ball of silk or cotton through it, and, without breaking the thread, 
 begin anew at the point you desire. Practice alone gives ex¬ 
 pertness and dexterity in the management of the needle. 
 
 OPEN WORK. 
 
 It is considered superfluous to attempt to give directions for all 
 tlie varieties of stitches of this kind which are to be met with 
 upon lace or muslin, as the attentive observation of a pattern will 
 assist learners in this stage of proficiency much more than words. 
 A few, are, however, selected, and described as practised upon 
 muslin. 
 
 FRENCH VEINING. 
 
 1. Fasten in your thread, and make a stitch angularly from 
 that point and straight towards yourself, precisely like the first 
 part of the sampler stitch, including three or four threads in the 
 stitch, which should be drawn closely, and made open at the 
 angles with the point of the needle. 
 
 2. Then make a second stitch to the right of the working thread, 
 and angularly hack from it, so that the needle will point to the left, 
 and come out at the open space whence the first stitch was made. 
 
 3. Makeathird stitchangularlyback from the thread and straight 
 towards yourself, in the same manner as the first was made. 
 
 4. Make a fourth stitch like the second, and so continue. The 
 work should recede from you in a slanting direction. Several 
 rows may be worked so as to fill up the centre of any leaf or flower. 
 
 5. In doing a second row, work to the open spaces formed by 
 the preceding row, and angularly from them, to the space formed 
 by each successive stitch. 
 
 OPEN WORK.—(second KIND.) 
 
 A different appearance can be effected occasionally by working 
 the second row within one thread each way of the preceding one, 
 and so on with the third, fourth, &c. Two threads of the 
 material will thus cross each other at every open space. 
 
 open work.—(third kind.) 
 
 Hold the work with the thread lying straight before you. The 
 work is described as receding from you. 
 
 1. Make a stitch like a hack stitch, across three or four threads 
 and straight towards you; draw the thread closely, and make 
 the stitch very open at the angles. 
 
DIRECTIONS FOIi NEEDLE-WORK. 
 
 45 
 
 2. Then put your needle in at the same point as before, but 
 directed towards the right hand, under a like number of threads, 
 and so as to form a stitch exactly at right angles with the former 
 one. It will be necessary to make a hack stitch across these 
 threads also. Two stitches will now be completed, both like 
 back-stitches, but lying in different directions, one straight 
 towards you, and one across from left to right. 
 
 3. The third stitch must he done straight towards you like 
 the first, bringing out the needle at the open space formed by the 
 second stitch. 
 
 4. And the fourth at right angles with the third, as the second 
 was with the first. 
 
 The work will recede angularly from you in this way. The 
 second row should be worked upon the same plan, and to the open 
 spaces formed by the first row. 
 
 OPEN WORK.—(FOURTH KIND.) 
 
 A beautiful and quite different pattern is produced by uniting 
 every two rows such as the preceding, thus : 
 
 When one row is worked as directed, unite the second row to it 
 at every open space, by catching up the thread with which you 
 worked the former row at every angle, and so looping the threads 
 of each across the open spaces. 
 
 Some persons draw out threads each way, but if the stitches 
 be very well separated with the point of the needle, it will be unne¬ 
 cessary to do so on thin muslin. 
 
 Unite the third row with the fourth, the fifth row with the 
 sixth, and so on. 
 
 The second row is in every respect done like the first, with the 
 addition of catching up the thread of the preceding row as directed. 
 
 OPEN WORK.—(fifth KIND.) 
 
 1. Sew over three or four threads (in each stitch), cither in a 
 straight or in a slanting direction, so far as you require ; draw the 
 hand rather tightly, and open the angles with the point of the 
 needle. 
 
 2. Sew back over the same stitches in a contrary direction. 
 Several rows should be worked in succession, and a difference 
 may occasionally be produced by sewing over every second row, 
 once only. The angular way looks better. 
 
46 
 
 46 DIRECTIONS FOR NEEDLE-WORK. 
 
 FOURTEENTH CLASS. 
 
 LACE WORK. 
 
 [See Specimens, 35 and 36.] 
 
 Lace work consists of satin-stitch, overlaying, tambour, and 
 tracing, together with the several stitches which present the 
 appearance of “ open works.” 
 
 For the first four items, see pages 40, 41, and 43. 
 
 Tracing is nothing more than going over the outline of a leaf or 
 flower with either shining boss, or a thread of full Moravian cotton, 
 taking up and leaving down a stitch of the ground alternately, and 
 then filling up the centre in successive rows with fine thread. 
 
 The different open stitches upon lace are very simple indeed, con¬ 
 sisting chiefly of sewing or passing over the ground with fine thread, 
 so as to produce a variety of appearances, and only require to be 
 viewed attentively to make any person capable of working them. 
 
 JOINING LACE. 
 
 The nicest mode of joining lace is to place the edges of each 
 part one over the other, with the stitches of the grounds corres¬ 
 ponding exactly; then, with fine thread in the needle, to sew over 
 both, so as to unite them neatly and firmly, and to cut away the 
 superfluous edges on each side. If properly done the joining will 
 be scarcely discernible. 
 
 FIFTEENTH CLASS. 
 
 WORSTED WORK. 
 
 Several very pretty mats for flower-vases, ink-stands, urns, lines 
 for bell-pulls, and other things may be worked in the common 
 sampler stitch, and if properly done in the true stitch (for which 
 directions are given, page 20, No. 5), the article will not require to 
 be lined, as the work will appear the same on both sides, and can be 
 fringed upon the same plan. Whatever be the stitch which is pre¬ 
 ferred in worsted works, one general direction is indispensably 
 necessary to he attended to, namely, let all the stitches be made in the 
 one direction, and if crossed, be crossed in the same manner. Any 
 deviation from this rule will spoil the appearance of the work. 
 
 Tent-stitch is the most proper for fruit or flowers, as the stitches 
 are made upon the smallest scale possible, and therefore give 
 
DIRECTIONS EOR NEEDLE-WORK. 
 
 47 
 
 opportunity to define tlie shape accurately, and also to intermix the 
 greatest variety of colours. The spaces between the fruit or flowers 
 should be all filled up with one colour, so as to form a ground. 
 
 TENT-STITCH. 
 
 Tent-stitch is done in the following manner :— 
 
 1. Use one, two, or three threads of worsted in the needle, ac¬ 
 cording to the openness of the threads of the canvas, as the 
 ground will require to be quite filled up with the work. 
 
 2. Make all the stitches, from space to space, angularly across 
 two threads (one each way), and slope in the same direction; set¬ 
 ting in the colours and shades of colours either according to your 
 judgment or from a pattern. 
 
 Care should be taken to put the canvas into the frame as evenly 
 as possible, as work done in this stitch is rather apt to acquire a 
 slanting appearance. 
 
 GOBELIN, OR TAPESTRY STITCH. 
 
 This stitch is done by taking two threads in height and one in 
 width; when copied from a Berlin pattern, take two stitches in 
 width and one in height to one stitch of the pattern, which will 
 bring it in the same proportion to the pattern worked in cross 
 stitch. This is a very pretty stitch, having a softer appearance 
 than either cross or tent stitch, and well suited for flowers or 
 scrolls. It is done more quickly, and lies more closely than those 
 stitches, and it may be worked on the hand with greater facility. 
 
 DOUBLE CROSS-STITCH. 
 
 1. Double cross-stitch is done like the common sampler stitch, 
 taking, however, four threads each way instead of two. 
 
 2. When the stitch is formed in the usual manner, cross it at 
 each of the angular points. This stitch is little used at present. 
 
 ECONOMY STITCH. 
 
 This stitch very nearly resembles herringbone-stitch, being 
 done from one side to another across any certain number of 
 threads according to fancy; and the work like herringbone being 
 thrown up almost entirely to one side, from which circumstance 
 the name is derived. The difference between them consists in 
 
48 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR NEEDLE-WOUK. 
 
 the stitches of the latter being set in quite closely, without any 
 threads intervening between them. Also in herringbone the work 
 is done from you, while in this stitch it is done towards you, and 
 a back stitch is made at the top of each stitch. 
 
 It is frequently used to form a border to different other stitches. 
 When used as a principal one for mats or rugs, begin at an angle, 
 and work from thence to the opposite one in a slanting direction, 
 like steps, making any number of stitches you fancy in a straight 
 line towards you in each set, and taking the lower part of one set 
 as the top of the succeeding one. Set in different w'ell-contrasted 
 colours in stripes. 
 
 BASKET-STITCH. 
 
 1. Put in the needle, and pass it in a straight line across a cer¬ 
 tain equal number of threads, two, four, or six, as you fancy, or 
 in proportion to the coarseness of the canvas. 
 
 2. Make as many of these stitches, one after the other, as are 
 necessary for your design. 
 
 3. The next row is to be done in the same manner, leaving, 
 however, one thread between it aud the preceding one, and taking 
 the centre of the former stitches as the point from whence to 
 begin and end each of these. 
 
 The third row will resemble the first, and the fourth will be 
 like the second, and so on successively. 
 
 This stitch may be done in waves or diamonds, by making a 
 certain number of stitches rise one higher than the other to a 
 point, and then descend in the same proportion. In the former 
 way it should be done in one colour only, and answers well as a 
 ground for other stitches, as it is simple and fills up quickly. In 
 the latter it makes a handsome principal stitch, and gives oppor¬ 
 tunity for the exercise of taste in the arrangement of colours and 
 shades. 
 
 OVERLAYING. 
 
 Several very handsome things may be worked upon silk, satin, 
 or cloth, of any colour, by placing Bolton, or canvas, of whatever 
 texture you please, over the material, and working through both. 
 The canvas serves as a guide, and the stitches must be set in so as 
 not to interfere with the threads of it, which are to be drawn out 
 on each side when the work is finished. The size of the thread 
 
i working must be regulated by the coarseness of the over¬ 
 laid material. The stitches should appear thick and full. 
 
 In doing any thing of this kind, ground work is of course unne¬ 
 cessary, as the satin or cloth will answer that purpose. Tent, or 
 cross-stitch, is best calculated for this sort of work. Canvas, formed 
 of worsted, of silk, and even of gold wire, is now generally used 
 for working on, with either floss-silk, very fine lamb’s wool, or 
 Berlin. Beautiful bracelets, waist-ribbons, bell-pulls, or fire-screens 
 may be worked upon any of these materials (which do not require 
 to be grounded), in either of those stitches. 
 
 A stitch resembling satin-stitcli, but which is quite flat, and done 
 by passing the needle up and down across a certain number of 
 threads, is becoming very general in canvas works. It is the same 
 which, when wrought upon a silk ground, is called embroid- 
 ering-stitcli. 
 
 When working on canvas, the number of threads passed over 
 must be increased or diminished so as to represent the pattern cor¬ 
 rectly, and the stitches should lie smoothly side to side. Stars, 
 diamonds, leaves, and flowers may be worked in this manner. 
 
 RAISED WORK. 
 
 Animals, and fruits of different kinds, may be worked in relief 
 by filling bits of linen with cotton, wool, or nice padding, so as to 
 produce the desired shape; then placing them on a ground of 
 canvas, or any kind of cloth you fancy, and attaching them to it by 
 working across them back and forward with worsted or lambs’ wool 
 of the necessary colours and shades, until they are completely 
 covered. Stems, leaves, Ac., must be added; and baskets or cor¬ 
 nucopias worked so as apparently to hold the fruit. 
 
 MESH WORK. 
 
 Birds, animals, and flowers, may also be worked in relief, by 
 doing cross-stitch over a mesh, selecting the appropriate colours and 
 shades as usual, and cutting the worsted open when finished. This 
 mode gives a soft, rich, velvet-like appearance, as well as ful¬ 
 ness to whatever you desire to represent, and the ground, if of 
 
50 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR NEEDLE-WORK. 
 
 canvas, may be filled up, with one colour, in any stitch you 
 fancy. In several cases it may be better to leave the worsted 
 uncut, as when representing different sort3 of dogs, such as the 
 poodle-kind, &c., <fcc. 
 
 FRINGE. 
 
 Fringe is generally formed by sewing worsted very thickly in the 
 sampler stitch, over a bit of flat bone or wood, called a mesh, and 
 then cutting it Open or leaving it uncut. It is usually sewed on 
 in shades of the same colour, from light to dark, or the contrary ; 
 and sometimes different colours are intermixed. 
 
 But worsted may be so arranged or tied up, as to resemble flowers 
 of different kinds, roses, jessamines, convolvoluses, &c., &c., and 
 these flowers placed on in a border, like fringe, which looks very 
 well. Clusters of fruit may be also used as a border to fancy-works ; 
 the fruit to be formed of velvet or cashmere, according to the kind 
 you desire to represent, sometimes attached to small wires, or 
 placed upon tufts of worsted of different rich shades of green, 
 brown, amber, &c., resembling moss, and tastefully mingled. To 
 produce this appearance worsted of these different colours should 
 be knitted, some singly, and some two or three shades together, 
 then wetted, partially dried, pressed under a heated smoothing- 
 iron, and unravelled. This process makes it acquire and retain the 
 curled appearance. It should be sowed on like a border formed 
 of rich tufts. 
 
 Fringe, which will look quite equal to that vjorlced on canvas, may 
 be knitted. For this purpose take strong grey thread, and cast on 
 as many stitches as you require. Then cut the worsted or lamb’s 
 wool, of the colours and shades you design to use, into short 
 lengths, from one inch to two, and insert them, two or three threads 
 at a time, between and into each stitch as you knit it, to the end of 
 the row. Knit the wrong side back like the heel of a stocking, and 
 again pursue' the same method in the next row on the right 
 side. 
 
 Hearth-rugs, or those for placing before the doors of apartments, 
 may be knitted in this way, and by doing the work in detached 
 strips it can be easily managed in the hand, and when completed, 
 these strips be sewed together on the wrong side. Some persons 
 • use very narrow slips of cloth, which make a durable rug, but less 
 handsome than the worsted. 
 
SIXTEENTH CLASS. 
 
 NETTING. 
 
 The thread or silk for netting is wound on the needle, a mode¬ 
 rate quantity at a time, as the bulk must not exceed that of 
 the pin or mesh. 
 
 Take a piece of strong thread, and tie it so as to make a loop; 
 this must be attached to something weighty, to keep it from draw¬ 
 ing with you while working. Then tie the thread on the needle 
 to this loop, and take the mesh into the left hand, holding it 
 across the open fingers with the thumb. 
 
 With the right hand pass the thread across over the mesh, and 
 round under the fingers to the thumb, where it must be held firmly. 
 
 Then pass the needle through the loop formed upon the left 
 hand, and also through the loop of strong thread, so as to attach 
 the stitch to it. 
 
 Draw the thread closely round the mesh, gradually withdrawing 
 the fingers from the loop, and using them so as to keep it from 
 entangling while the knot is forming. Make as many of these 
 stitches, one after the other, as you require, and if it be intended 
 to make the article round, join the first and last loops together 
 by netting a stitch through them . The different patterns of net¬ 
 ting are all produced by using meshes of different sizes, and 
 either widening or narrowing in proportion to these sizes, or in 
 accordance with the pattern you propose. 
 
 To widen; net a certain number of stitches through one loop. 
 
 To narrow; pass the needle through several loops, and net them 
 into one stitch. 
 
 Seeded and spotted netting are done in the same manner. 
 
 It may seem almost superfluous to remark that netting is ap¬ 
 plied to several useful as well as ornamental purposes, viz.nets 
 for fishing, and for fruit trees, window curtains, Ac., &c. 
 
 NETTED PELLERINES, OR TIPPETS. 
 
 Netted pellerines for children, of white worsted, with an occa¬ 
 sional row of some other lively colour, look very well, and afford 
 more warmth than is generally supposed. Even tippets of the long 
 boa kind have been netted of lamb’s wool, and look well. For this 
 article a long narrow purse is first prepared, consisting of four or 
 five stitches only, and a soft woollen line passed through the centre. 
 
52 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR NEEDLE-WORK. 
 
 To this ground-work, the outer rows are added round and round, 
 the last outside row is sometimes formed of pink or blue worsted 
 
 tatting. 
 
 Tatting is done with very fine bobbin, or very coarse spool cotton. 
 It is for the most part used as an edge to babies’ dresses in one row 
 or several, but it may of course be applied to different purposes. 
 
 It consists of loops of equal sizes, worked at regular distances 
 on the edge of any article, and if a second or a third row be 
 desirable, each loop of these should be formed exactly at the 
 centre of the preceding one. To form a stitch— 
 
 1. Hold the work in the left hand with the right side of the 
 article next you; fasten the thread, and at the distance of about a 
 quarter of an inch pass the needle in on the right side, pointed 
 from you, through the edge, and so that it will form a loop. 
 
 2. Then holding the thread under the thumb, pass the needle 
 in on the wrong side, 'pointed to you, and just close to the last 
 stitch. This, as it were ties the two loops together. 
 
 3. Make another stitch at the same distance the first was made, 
 and the loop of the same size. 
 
 4. Unite it with the following one as before directed, and so 
 proceed with each succeeding one. To ensure regularity in the 
 size of the stitches, they may be formed over a mesh, but this is 
 rarely necessary. 
 
 Tatting may be done upon either the right or the wrong side, 
 according to choice, and there is a slight difference between the 
 appearance of each. Several rows may be worked upon frocks, 
 collars, &c., as well as at the edges, with very fine bobbin, and 
 upon babies’ bonnets, pelisses, &c., with silk cord, so as to pro¬ 
 duce a very ornamental appearance. 
 
 TAPE TRIMMING. 
 
 Fine Holland tape may be formed into trimming or insertion, 
 by folding it into a succession of points, in an inverted order, as 
 follows :— 
 
 1. Take one end of the tape in the left hand, holding it 
 from left to right. Fold the left end towards you like a half hand¬ 
 kerchief, the top selvage being straight up the middle; then fold 
 the right hand side of the tape, so as to meet the former up the 
 
DIRECTIONS FOR NEEDLE-WORK. 
 
 53 
 
 middle, and to form a point at the top. One point will then he 
 completed, and the tape will be straight towards you, 
 
 2. Next fold the tape back from, you underneath,sothatthe selvage 
 will lie straight from left to right ; then fold the tape from the right 
 upwards, so as to lie from you, the selvage being straight up the 
 middle, which will complete the lower point and serve as a model 
 for the remainder of the work. The points must be kept in shape 
 by tacking them along the middle on the wrong side. 
 
 Several rows of this kind may be joined one to another, by 
 sewing the points of each together. The open spaces formed by 
 this joining may be filled up, by making four or five stitches like 
 small loops all round them with fine thread, connecting each 
 loop with the following one, and uniting them all at the centre by 
 passing the needle successively through each, and drawing the 
 whole nearly together. If the tape be fine, this makes a hand¬ 
 some and very durable insertion. 
 
 THREAD WORK. 
 
 NECK-CHAINS, BRACELETS, RETICULES, &C. 
 
 Bracelets, Neck-chains, Reticule-bags, or Purses, are frequently 
 made of purse-silk, silk-cord, or fine twine of different colours, 
 sold for the purpose. 
 
 This work is usually done in a frame of very simple construction, 
 about twelve or fourteen inches long and eight or nine wide. The 
 threads are made fast at one end of this frame to a round bit of 
 wood, set across for the purpose, while at the nearer end they are 
 inserted at pleasure into little niches slightly made in another up¬ 
 right bit of wood. The object is to keep the threads which are 
 worked upon, firmly stretched, while the silk or twine is passed 
 across them with the fingers, somewhat like button-hole stitch. 
 The number of threads set up must be proportioned to the width 
 you design to make the article. Two of them are always used to 
 work upon, therefore the number should be double. 
 
 Then, having made your threads fast at one end (generally to 
 a slip of whalebone, which should be attached to the round bit of 
 wood before alluded to), and placed them in order—insert two of 
 them into the niches close to each other, and draw them tightly. 
 
 The stitch is done as follows :— 
 
54 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR NEEDLE-WORK. 
 
 1. Take two threads, oue in each hand, pass that in the right 
 hind across to the left, so as to form a loop. 
 
 2. Then pass that in the left hand over the former, under the 
 threads upon which you work, and up through the loop. Draw 
 the two threads on each side, and make the stitch quite close. 
 
 3. In forming the second stitch, pass the thread from the left 
 hand to the right, so as to form the loop on that side, and so con¬ 
 tinue on each side alternately. 
 
 By working several stitches in succession, upon the samethreads, 
 a flat cord is produced; and by working two only at a time upon 
 each set, and then changing the threads of the ground the zig-zag 
 pattern of the reticule bag is produced. Bracelets are now very 
 generally made in this way of silk cord. Chains or bracelets are 
 frequently worked in the former way, to the length of an inch or 
 half an inch each line, and these lines connected by an interchange 
 of threads between every two, passing a thread from each line 
 across to the other, through gold, garnet, or coloured beads, either 
 singly or so as to form diamonds. 
 
 BRAID CHAINS. 
 
 Another kind of chain is formed of very fine silk braid (a dark 
 colour is preferable), passed across back and forward so as to form 
 links. The braid for this purpose is sold in pieces of a suitable 
 length, and must be cut into two equal parts, and these placed 
 one over the other at the centre, in contrary directions. 
 
 1. Then hold them upon the fingers, so that they will appear 
 to lie across, and pass the one next you, back from you, so that 
 two braids will be at the same side (leaving the link thus formed 
 rather open). 
 
 2. Then pass one across from the left hand to the right. Two 
 braids will then lie back from you, and two will lie on the right 
 hand. 
 
 They should be placed so as to lie side by side, and not one 
 over the other. 
 
 3. Take the one not hitherto disturbed from the back, and 
 bring it towards you. 
 
 4. And from the right hand, pass across to the left the other 
 braid, which must be passed out through the link, formed by first 
 move, so as to interweave them into a little square kind of platform, 
 
■DIRECTIONS FOR NEEDLE-WORK. 
 
 with a braid at each angle. When this is correctly formed, it will 
 serve as a model for the remainder of the work; for which pursue 
 the same methods until all the braid is wrought up. Spaces 
 of braid are sometimes left unwoven at every inch or half inch. In 
 the former way, if two colours are used, they will present a spiral 
 appearance through the chain. 
 
 CORD CHAINS, BRACELETS, OR BURSES. 
 
 Chains or bracelets are sometimes made of .silk-cord, or mohair, 
 as follows 
 
 1. Take four cords, or any number you please, and fasten them 
 at one end. 
 
 2. Take one in each hand; pass that in the right hand round 
 over that in the left hand, so as to form a sort of loop, and secure 
 the end between the second and the third fingers; keep the loop 
 down upon the fingers with the thumb. 
 
 3. Then take the left cord and bring it round to the right like 
 a loop, pass it over the part secured by your fingers, under the 
 right cord, over the loop formed by the right, and out under the 
 left. This produces an elastic and handsome sort of net-work. 
 The work must be connected by using one of the former cords in 
 the formation of the second tie, and so on with each succeeding 
 cord in the order in which it lies. Purses or reticules may be 
 wrought in the same manner. 
 
 ANOTHER KIND OF RETICULE OR PURSE. 
 
 Purse 3 or reticules may be formed of silk-cord in the following 
 manner:— 
 
 Take an end of the cord and pass it round either upon your 
 fingers, or upon a shape sold for the purpose, and carefully fasten 
 it. Then pass round a second row under the first; these two rows 
 must be fastened together by taking a needleful of strong sewing- 
 silk of some lively colour, that will form a good contrast to the 
 cord, and working three or four stitches of overcasting at regular 
 distances all round. The cord must still be passed round and 
 round until the purse is of a proper size, and the rows then gra¬ 
 dually contracted to a point. Each row must be connected to the 
 preceding one as soon as it is formed, in the manner already di¬ 
 rected, observing to fasten the third row at the middle of the 
 
56 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR NEEDLE WORK. 
 
 spac s left when joining the first and second; the fourth, so as to 
 agree with the fastening of the second; the fifth to correspond 
 with the third, and so on. 
 
 This will form diamonds. The sewing-silk must be passed 
 through at the back from one fastening to another, so as to appear 
 at the connecting points only. 
 
 The most valuable and most elegant kind of thread-work, is 
 bobbin-lace, which is an article of great beauty, and notwithstand¬ 
 ing the extreme delicacy of the texture, one of great durability. 
 
 No attempt is made to describe the making of this article, 
 which may be said to belong to a particular branch of manufacture 
 and which continually varies, in accordance with the pattern 
 proposed. 
 
 
 
 
DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING OUT. 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING OUT 
 
 THE DIFFERENT 
 
 SPECIMENS OF NEEDLE-WORK. 
 
 FIRST CLASS. 
 
 PAPER. 
 
 [See Page 12.] 
 
 Cut soft paper three inches square. Old copies answer very 
 well for this purpose. 
 
 CALICO. 
 
 [.See Page 13.] 
 
 1. Cut a yard of low priced calico, suppose about twenty-seven 
 inches wide, along the selvage, into nine strips. 
 
 2. Again cut each of these strips into thirteen parts. This will 
 furnish one hundred and seventeen pieces, each three inches 
 square, or about thirty-nine yards of hemming. 
 
 Small children, or those just beginning, may, with advantage, 
 practise upon the long strips, each of which may again be cut in 
 two. In this way the yard will supply thirty-six yards of 
 hemming, and afford an opportunity for considerable practice in 
 the stitch without any impediments from corners, which young 
 children find difficult to manage. An equal quantity of white and 
 of printed calico should be used. 
 
 SECOND CLASS. 
 
 SEWING. 
 
 [See Page 13.] 
 
 The work for this class is supplied by giving the children the 
 pieces which were hemmed by the pupils of the First Class, 
 teaching them to sew them together ; the square pieces, so as 
 
DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING OUT. 
 
 with every four to form a diamond of two printed and two white 
 squares, placed angularly, and the long strips alternate with white 
 and printed. If each square thus formed be lined separately, 
 and the edges of the lining turned in on every side, then sewed 
 to another square, so that all the seams will be on the inside, a 
 very substantial quilt can be made up and lined at the same time, 
 and a large supply of work for practice be furnished to a school. 
 If not thought too clumsy, the lining may be further cut into 
 pieces equally small as those which form the outside. Each 
 square should be quilted before it is sewed to another. This can 
 be done by either the Third or the Fourth Class ; the former 
 may run it in waves or diamonds, the latter back-stitch it in 
 similar patterns ; in either case it should be begun a little inside 
 the edges, which, to be sewed to other pieces, must be left open. 
 
 THIftP CLASS. 
 
 [See Page 14.] 
 
 1. Cut a yard of white and a yard of printed calico into strips 
 about an inch wide. 
 
 2. Cut each of these strips into nine parts, the strips should 
 be run and felled, or sewed and felled, alternate white and 
 coloured. 
 
 FOURTH CLASS. 
 
 [See Page 15.] 
 
 1. Cut a yard of white calico into ten strips. 
 
 2. Cut each of these into ten parts. There will be one hun¬ 
 dred wrists three inches and a half long and about two and a 
 half wide. If approved, a bit of muslin may be given to prepare 
 for removal, and it will be of advantage if each child stitches 
 two wrists of this kind, and keeps them for her own use in the 
 stocking-in class. 
 
 FIFTH CLASS. 
 
 [See Page 16.] 
 
 1. Divide a yard of white calico about three-quarters wide, 
 selvage-wise, into five strips. 
 
 2. Cut each strip into twelve equal parts. You will have 
 sixty pieces, five in the breadth and twelve in the length. They 
 are to be doubled for working upon. 
 
DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING OUT. 
 
 o9 
 
 SIXTH CLASS. 
 
 [See Page 17. ] 
 
 1. Take a strip about six inches wide, off a yard of three 
 quarter wide white calico, along the selvage. This may be 
 appropriated to the use of some other of the classes. 
 
 2. Then divide the remaining piece into two strips, and divido 
 each of these across into twelve parts. There will be twenty- 
 four pieces ten and a half inches wide and three deep. 
 
 A quarter yard of four-fourths or five-fourths inuslin may be 
 cut in three or four strips, and each of these cut across into three 
 parts ; there will be nine or twelve pieces for gathering. 
 
 SEVENTH CI^ASS. 
 
 [See Page 18.] 
 
 1. Take half a yard of four-fourths muslin. Cut two strips 
 across from one selvage to the ether, and about three and a half 
 inches deep. 
 
 2. Cut one of these strips into nine equal parts for centre pieces. 
 
 The other strip may be cut into wrists for the fine work of the 
 
 Fourth or Sixth Class. 
 
 3. Then divide the remaining piece into ten parts for frills. 
 These will answer for trimming the nine centre pieces ; each will 
 be about one inch deep and forty long ; the tenth strip must be 
 cut into nine parts, and one part added to each of the other strips. 
 
 The precise width of the muslin must of course be immaterial: 
 if a greater or lesser width be more convenient, let it be cut upon 
 the same scale. 
 
 Infants’ eaps or small pellerines trimmed, furnish suitable work 
 for this class. 
 
 EIGHTH CLASS. 
 
 [See Page 19.] 
 
 The common canvas usually measures eighteen to twenty inches 
 in width. Cut a yard in the following manner :— 
 
 1. Take off a piece about four inches deep from one selvage to 
 another. 
 
 2. Then eut the remainder along the selvage into three equal 
 parts, so that each strip will be about six inches wide. 
 
CO 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING OUT. 
 
 3. Eacli of these strips must be cut across into four parts. 
 There will be twelve samplers eight inches long and six wide. 
 This size is quite large enough to contain the letters, and so many 
 may be given in succession as will make a child perfect in the 
 stitch. Two will generally be found sufficient. 
 
 The piece first taken off may be cut into squares, and given to 
 the darning class. 
 
 NINTH CLASS. 
 
 DARNS. 
 
 [See Page 21.] 
 
 1. Cut a yard of canvas about eighteen inches wide, along the 
 selvage, into four strips. 
 
 2. Cut each of these into nine equal parts; there will be 
 thirty-six pieces. When hemmed they should be about three 
 inches square. Practise with cotton of two well-contrasted 
 colours. 
 
 PATCHES. 
 
 [See Page 25.] 
 
 The pieces for patches should be about three inches square when 
 hemmed. The piece taken out of the centre about an inch and half 
 square. Cut printed or striped calico upon the plan hitherto re¬ 
 commended, and so as to avoid waste. 
 
 GRAFTING PIECES. 
 
 [See Page 25.] 
 
 Stocking web should be cut into pieces which when hemmed 
 will be about three inches square. The piece taken out at the 
 centre should be ripped above and below, and cut on each side, 
 and be about an inch square. These small bits may be given to 
 others for practising the stitch. The piece inserted should be 
 rather larger than the former, as the sides must be turned in. 
 
 FINE DRAWING PIECES. 
 
 [See Page 26.] 
 
 The smallest bits of cloth answer for this work ; they are better 
 of different colours, and may be joined in stars, hexagons, or waves. 
 
HERRINGBONE. 
 
 [See Page 26.] 
 
 Herringbone-stitch should be first practised upon bits of calico 
 or muslin, then upon small pieces of flannel, as the making of 
 flannel articles requires a knowledge of the stitch. The spaces 
 between the rows of stitching on common wrists may occasionally 
 be used for this purpose, as well as for knotting. 
 
 Handsome reticule bags are sometimes made of striped ticken ; 
 the plain parts worked over in this stitch either with cotton of 
 different colours, or with silk. 
 
 Muslin specimens of herringbone should be about four inches 
 long and three wide. Flannel specimens, cut in two, so as when 
 joined to be of the same dimensions. 
 
 HEART-PIECES. 
 
 [See Page 27.] 
 
 Heart-pieces are made of square bits of muslin about three and 
 a half inches each way, cut down the middle, along the warp, to 
 half the depth. The small gusset something less than an inch 
 square. A quarter yard of muslin will make twenty of them. 
 
 SHIRT. 
 
 [See Page 27.] 
 
 The small shirt seven and a half inches long, five and a half wide. 
 
 Sleeves, three and a quarter inches long, three wide. 
 
 Sleeve gussets, one inch square. 
 
 Collar, a narrow band, about three inches in length. 
 
 Neck and side gussets, rather less than an inch square, cut 
 diagonally. 
 
 Wrists, one inch and three quarters long, three quarters of an 
 inch deep (when doubled). 
 
 Full piece for bosom, three inches wide, and about three deep, 
 to be set in on one side, the fulness on the other side to be formed 
 by cutting the body of the shirt within an inch and a half of 
 the am. 
 
DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING OUT 
 
 A FEW OF THE HOST SIMPLE 
 
 ARTICLES OF ATTIRE. 
 
 ) 
 
 PLAIN SHIRTS. 
 
 It is believed that few persons are unacquainted with the mode 
 of cutting out a single shirt; but as cutting out a piece of 
 linen might possibly present a difficulty to some, the following 
 scale is added, which it is hoped may be found useful. It is cal¬ 
 culated for plain shirts, and where a difference is desirable, 
 persons can make such alteration in particular parts as their own 
 judgment will suggest. 
 
 Shirts are now variously made. Instead of fastening on collars, 
 many have the neck set into narrow bands, and the collars made 
 separately; the breasts made full, by setting in cambric or very 
 fine linen with fancy-work ; and the wrists and collars cut from 
 the cloth folded angularly, with several other variations from the 
 common mode. Some of these may be regarded as decided im¬ 
 provements, but they are not contemplated in the following 
 directions. 
 
 The piece of linen is supposed to measure twenty-six yards 
 long, and to be full yard wide ; of these dimensions it will be 
 sufficient for eight shirts, cut as follows :— 
 
 1. The bodies should be first cut, for which purpose take off 
 seventeen yards, and divide it into eight equal parts, each will 
 be two yards and half-quarter long. 
 
 2. Next cut off five yards and half-quarter for eight pairs of 
 sleeves ; divide this into eight equal parts. Each breadth will 
 make a pair of sleeves twenty inches long and half yard wide. 
 
 3. Take off seven-eighths for six collars; cut this along the 
 selvage into three equal parts ; each will be twelve inches wide 
 and must be cut across at the middle, so that the length will be 
 about fifteen inches and three-quarters. 
 
 4. Cut off half a yard for six pair of wrist-bands ; there will be 
 six in the width of the cloth, each six inches wide, and two in 
 the length, nine inches long. 
 
 5. Next cut off twelve inches for six pair of sleeve-gussets; 
 the width of the cloth will give six, each six inches wide, and the 
 length will give two, six inches long. 
 
DIRECTIONS I'OR CUTTING OUT. 
 
 63 
 
 6. Then cut off six pair of sleeve-binders; they should be 
 about twenty-five inches long, therefore cut off half a yard and 
 three nails. The width of the cloth will allow of twelve strips, 
 each three inches wide. 
 
 7. The shoulder-straps for six shirts may be next cut; for 
 this purpose take off ten inches and a half. The twelve strips can 
 be cut from the width of the cloth, each will be three inches wide. 
 
 8. The neck and side gussets may be of the same dimensions. 
 Accordingly cut off nine inches ; divide this along the selvage 
 into eight strips; each will be four inches and half wide, and 
 when cut across the middle, four and a half inches long. These 
 squares cut angularly will answer both purposes for the eight shirts. 
 
 9. Two collars, two pair of wrist-bands, two pair of sleeve-bind¬ 
 ers, two pair of shoulder-straps, and two pair of sleeve-gussets, 
 are still wanted to complete the eight shirts, and one yard of the 
 cloth remains. Cut this in the following manner :— 
 
 10. Take a strip twelve inches wide off the full length, along 
 the selvage ; when cut across this will make two collars. 
 
 11. Next cut off another strip in the same direction, six inches 
 wide ; this when cut across into four parts, will make two pair 
 of wrist-bands. 
 
 12. Then cut off four other strips, each three inches wide ; and 
 cut these across so that one part of each will be twenty-five 
 inches and a half long, and the other ten and a half. The four 
 longer strips will make tw r o pair of sleeve-binders, and the four 
 shorter ones two pair of shoulder-straps. 
 
 13. The strip yet undisposed of will be six inches wide; and 
 thirty-six long ; fold this angularly, so as when opened to pro¬ 
 duce a square, and cut four of these for the two pair of sleeve- 
 gussets. The small remnant, twelve inches by six, may be cut 
 into breast and wrist-gussets. 
 
 NIGHT-SHIRT. 
 
 Night-shirts are, in every respect, made like plain day-shirts; 
 but the bodies should be longer, and the collars and wrist-bands, 
 wider. Strong calico is preferred to linen for this purpose by 
 some persons, being more absorbent. Some persons like the 
 sleeves and wrist-bands joined quite round, only allowing room 
 for the hands to pass through. 
 
 Somewhat less than twenty-one yards of yard-wide linen or 
 calico, will make six very full-sized men’s nightshirts, cut as 
 follows :— 
 
DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING OUT. 
 
 64 
 
 1. Cut off fifteen yards for the bodies, and divide them into 
 six equal parts; each will be two and a half yards long. 
 
 2. Then cut off three yards and three-eighths for sleeves; divide 
 it into six parts; each will be about twenty inches long, and 
 when cut lengthwise into two parts, will make a pair of sleeves. 
 
 3. Next take off one yard and four inches for collars; cut 
 them as in page 62, No. 3; each will be twenty inches long. 
 
 4. Cut off twenty inches for wrist-bands, and subdivide it as 
 before directed, page 62, No. 4; each wrist will be ten inches long. 
 
 5. Cut off twelve inches for sleeve gussets. 
 
 6. Ten inches and half for shoulder-straps. 
 
 7. And nine inches for neck and side gussets. 
 
 PLAIN CHEMISES. 
 
 Twenty-seven yards of yard wide linen, will make twelve plain 
 chemises, large enough for most persons. Some variety exists in 
 the formation of this article, as well as in that of the preceding. 
 Many persons like the sleeves made full, either angularly cut, or 
 straight, and set into stitched bands, or work, like those of petti- 
 coats. A small tri-cornered bit is sometimes added across at the 
 shoulder; a button sewed on at the joining-in of the sleeve, and 
 the angular point of the former bit is attached to it, so as to pass 
 over and cover the strap of the stays. Some persons prefer 
 chemises cut out round the neck, and trimmed; the present cal¬ 
 culation supposes them to be cut with lappets. If the former be 
 preferred, somewhat less linen will answer, as some of the gussets 
 may be cut from the pieces sloped out. 
 
 Again, some calculate the length of the chemise from the chest 
 only, and add the narrow strips which form the shoulders, this 
 latter is a very economical way; and if lappets be not considered 
 essential, answers very well for children. Twenty-five yards 
 will make twelve chemises, exclusive of the sleeves, etc., cut as 
 follows:— 
 
 1. Cut that quantity into four equal parts, each piece will be 
 six yards and quarter long. 
 
 2. Then cut each of these four into five breadths; each breadth 
 will be one yard and quarter long. 
 
 3. Every five breadths must be sewed together like a bag; the 
 seams made flat and smooth, tacked together, then folded back 
 and forward very correctly into three equal parts, pinned, and 
 then cut diagonally from one end to the other. 
 
 The three chemises will be cut at once in this way. 
 
DIRECTIONS FOJR CUTTING OUT. 
 
 t>o 
 
 When the linen is folded as directed, it appears precisely as 
 one chemise would, and, as a sort of general guide, for arranging 
 the width at the shoulders, it is suggested to fold the chemise 
 into three parts, and to allow a very little more than one-third 
 part for the top, while the other two-thirds will form the lower 
 part. This excess of a third part should never exceed one inch . 
 
 4. One yard and ten inches will make the twelve pair of sleeves; 
 divide this across from one selvage to the other, into eight equal 
 parts : each of these strips will be six inches deep, and must be 
 cut into three parts, there will be twenty-four pieces six inches 
 deep and twelve inches wide. 
 
 5. Fifteen inches will make twenty-one gussets; divide this 
 quantity across from selvage to selvage into three parts, and again 
 divide each of these strips into seven parts: the squares will be 
 five inches each way. 
 
 It is usual to cut the sleeves with the gussets attached to them 
 at one side. In this way every breadth of linen (such as referred 
 to) will make one pair of sleeves and gussets, and for the twelve 
 chemises exactly two yards of linen will be required. 
 
 Some persons put two full breadths of linen into a chemise, 
 and, when the material is only seven-eighths wide, it may be 
 requisite. No advantage is obtained from sewing up several 
 breadths together in cutting chemises of these dimensions; there¬ 
 fore, let th efull length designed for one be doubled across like a 
 shirt, and before it is sewed, a gore taken off from the top, on 
 each side, to half the length, and sloped to a point. These gores 
 must be added to the lower part of the chemise. Seams on the 
 shoulders are thus unnecessai-y. 
 
 Or take off a gore on one side, th e full length, before the linen 
 is sewed, and sew it on to the other side. 
 
 Or cut the linen into separate breadths, and sew every two 
 together like a bag. Place the seams together, and pin them 
 exactly. Fold the linen diagonally from one end to the other in 
 the proper proportions, and cut. 
 
 NIGHT CHEMISES. 
 
 Night chemises are made with collars, wrists, shoulder-straps, 
 &c., like shirts. For grown-up persons they should be cut from 
 at least two full breadths of cloth. Twenty-three yards and a 
 quarter will make six full-sized shifts. 
 
 E 
 
66 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING OUT. 
 
 1. Eighteen yards for the six bodies—each will be three yards 
 long. 
 
 2. Three yards for sleeves—each eighteen inches long. 
 
 3. One yard for collars—each eighteen inches long. 
 
 4. Eighteen inches for wrist-bands—each nine inches long. 
 
 5. Twelve inches for gussets (sleeve), six inches square. 
 
 6. Ten inches for shoulder-straps. 
 
 7. Four inches and half for neck-gussets, cut in half. Neck- 
 gussets for two will be wanted. 
 
 For grown persons, night chemises should be cut down at th<? 
 breast like shirts, and those parts, together with the collars and 
 wrist-bands, trimmed. Those for children are better open at the 
 back of the neck, and should have the collars put on accordingly. 
 Instead of shoulder-straps and gussets, pieces are sometimes let 
 in on the shoulders, which gradually widen from those points to 
 the neck. But this is mere matter of taste. 
 
 NIGHT WRAPPERS. 
 
 Night wrappers are generally made of calico or long-cloth, and 
 the minor parts may be cut by the same rules as night chemises, 
 to which they correspond. The bodies alone differ, and are to be 
 made long or short agreeably to fancy. About three-fourths of 
 a yard long, and one yard and half wide, are the most usual 
 dimensions: six yards and three quarters will make six bodies 
 of this size. The wrist, collars, &c., to be trimmed. Shoulder- 
 straps are unnecessary. 
 
 FROCKS. 
 
 Frocks are so variously made, and so continually change their 
 forms, that scarcely any directions can be offered which will be 
 permanently useful. At present the skirts are made very full, 
 and the mode of taking out gores, so general heretofore, is now 
 quite in disuse. Tucks have also disappeared, but as it is quite 
 possible that these things may again be introduced, a few words 
 are added on the subject. 
 
 Printed articles, or any in which the two sides of the cloth 
 different, require to be cut with attention, so that the backs, sides, 
 and sleeves may answer tor those different parts. To prevent 
 mistakes, and ensure their answering for the contrary sides, it 
 will be best to cut them from the cloth with the corresponding 
 sides (whether right or wrong) placed together, and if printed 
 3 
 
the pattern should proceed upwards. As the sleeves are cut 
 angularly, the pattern should proceed to the shoulder, and the 
 most straight part of each sleeve should he set in to the front of 
 the frock. 
 
 If gores he introduced, the same rules apply to them. The 
 sloped side of the gore should be placed to the back of the dress. 
 Gores for printed articles, or any which have different sides, 
 should not be cut one out of the Other; for such, the cloth should 
 be folded double, the selvages together, and a piece cut diagonally 
 from the centre. 
 
 If tucks be used, when the dress is hemmed and the distance 
 at which it is proposed to run the tuck regulated, make a fold at 
 that point, and set in a pin. Continue to mark the dress at cer¬ 
 tain distances and at the same depth all round, placing the edges 
 of the hem together for this purpose, and crease down the spaces 
 between these several marks. Then fold down the double edge 
 of the tuck equally deep all round, and crease it down firmly, so 
 that the impression may remain and serve as a guide in running. 
 The same mode must be pursued with each successive tuck, the 
 edge of the one being taken as the guide to the formation of the 
 succeeding. The deep border now in use may be done upon the 
 same plan. 
 
 Pellerines or tippets are rather useful articles to make up in 
 schools for the poor, as they supply a good deal of work for prac¬ 
 tice, contribute to neatness by forming a comfortable covering for 
 the neck, and may be made of a great variety of cheap materials. 
 If formed of calico, they may be lined, or not, and frilled, and 
 will afford opportunity for practising nearly all the different sorts 
 of plain work, as the collars may bo either run or back-stitched, 
 and knotted, the tippet and frill must be hemmed, whipped, 
 sewed, &e. &c. 
 
 Very comfortable and neat looking pellerines are sometimes 
 made of the listing edges of cloth sewed at one edge on lining cut 
 to the proper shape, beginning at the neck and continuing down¬ 
 wards in successive layers round and round. 
 
 boys’ dresses. 
 
 Boys’ dresses and trowsers should be made of strong materials, 
 and to fit quite easily, so that their limbs may be free and uncon¬ 
 strained. The more simple the shape of the dress, the more 
 
 E 2 
 
 ' j i 
 
 t \ | 
 
 j 1 
 
68 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING OUT. 
 
 graceful in general it is. The back and front of the dress formed 
 of full plaits stitched down from the throat to the waist and set 
 in to a collar at the neck—the shoulders joined by setting in 
 small gussets—the sleeves easy, and the waist confined by a belt 
 worn over the dress, seems one of the most simple and unexcep¬ 
 tionable modes. Or the upper part of the dress from a little 
 below the shoulders to the neck, both back and front, may be 
 formed of a plain gusset, fitted easily to the shape, to which the 
 dress should be joined, and the waist confined by a belt as before 
 mentioned. When required to be particularly nice, the edges 
 may be finished either with braid or tatting. 
 
 boys’ bibs. 
 
 Bibs for boys are generally made so as to cover the child com¬ 
 pletely round, and have collars, wrists, &c. A simple mode of cut¬ 
 ting them is to form the bib and the sleeves from the same piece. 
 
 1. To do this, fold the material for one bib across from selvage 
 to selvage, in the manner a shirt is folded; then double it, placing 
 the selvages together. 
 
 2. The doubled uncut end is to form the neck and sleeves, 
 therefore adjust the proper width for the latter at that end, and 
 set in a pin. 
 
 3. Then place the material before you with the selvages next 
 you, and cut from the pin at the selvage towards the centre, in a 
 straight line, so as to make the sleeves a suitable length, or to 
 reduce the bib at the waist to whatever width you please. 
 
 4. You may then either slope off the piece thence to the tail 
 like a gore, or take out any portion of it you please, making a 
 couple of large plaits on the hips to confine the fulness, and 
 stitching them down to a strap placed on the wrong side. 
 
 5. Then slope it out at the neck, to a proper shape, and cut it 
 down nine or ten inches in a straight line, to form the back. 
 The sleeves must be joined, either narrowing them towards the 
 ends, or gathering and setting on wrists. A small gusset under 
 the arm will improve the shape. 
 
 If the material be too narrow to allow of the entire length of 
 the sleeves being formed from it, cut it to any distance from the 
 selvage you please, and add pieces to lengthen the sleeves. A 
 loose belt sewed on at the front, and to button at the back, may 
 bo worn with this bib. 
 
-DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING OUT. 
 
 69 
 
 WRAPPERS FOR INFANTS. 
 
 Very neat wrappers for infants may be cut nearly in the same 
 manner, but these will be improved by the following change:— 
 
 1. When the first cut from the selvage towards the centre is 
 made, so as to form the sleeves, make a second cut lower down, 
 within two and a half or three inches of the former, and exactly 
 in the same direction. 
 
 2. Then cut away the piece between these two, which will form 
 the sides of the dress. 
 
 3. When the piece is removed, continue to cut the lower part 
 of the waist from the skirt, about two inches farther on, to form 
 the waist. You may then slope off some of the fulness from the 
 upper part of the skirt, or not, as you fancy. 
 
 4. Next slope out the dress of a proper shape at the neck, 
 leaving it open either at the back or the front, and if liked, small 
 neck-gussets may be let in to give it ease. The sides should be 
 joined and the skirts gathered or plaited, and set in full, on tlie 
 hips to the waist, formed by the third cut. The dress should be 
 made full both back and front; the fulness across the front to 
 the hips to be gathered and stocked in to a belt, sufficiently long 
 to tie at the back, the ends of which may be rounded and trimmed 
 
 Finish the sleeves in the same manner as directed for the bib. 
 
 Short working-wrappers for women may be cut in the same 
 manner; but these should, of course, be quite open, and made 
 more simply. 
 
 girls’ bibs. 
 
 The shape of girls’ bibs is so simple and so generally known, 
 as to require no particular direction. They are more nice if 
 trimmed at the neck and arms. 
 
 In the following Tables for Shirts, Frocks, &c.,&c., the rules must 
 be regarded as altogether general. Cases must constantly occur 
 where differences from them will be necessary. In that for Frocks, 
 no rules have been given for the bodies of the four largest sizes, 
 the shapes and patterns of these presenting continual variety. 
 
 Nothing is contemplated in giving the Tables further than that 
 they may serve as general guides, and save the trouble of calcu¬ 
 lation to those Teachers who may have much work to cut out, 
 and, from the variety of their other avocations, little spare time. 
 
70 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING OUT. 
 
 PIiAIM* SHIRTS. 
 
 •axenbs 
 
 ‘sjossnS-js'ga.iq ptre eAoajg 
 
 1 in. 
 
 1 in. 
 
 1 in. 
 
 1 in. 
 
 1 in. 
 
 •d'Bj'jg 
 
 -lapinoqs .ioj ija[ jnqs jo jjbj 
 
 3 in. 
 
 4 in. 
 
 4J in. 
 
 5 in. 
 
 6 in. 
 
 •raosoq jo qjSitaq- 
 
 ^ a a g a 
 
 •j£j[uuoSctp ‘jj'cq 
 ui jno ‘(a.nmbs) jassnS-apig 
 
 3 in. 
 
 3 in. 
 
 3 Jin. 
 
 4 in. 
 
 4 S in. 
 
 •I[[BUoS^ip ‘jpjq 
 m jno ‘(aj'enbs) jassnS-qoa^j 
 
 a d d d d 
 
 CO CO CO ^ n* 
 
 ■(aaenbs) jassnS-aAaajg 
 
 d d d d d 
 
 Tt< xo CO 
 
 •d'B.ijs 
 
 -lapjnoqs jo qjpiAS. sjoq^ 
 
 .3 .3 .2 .2 .2 
 
 <M <N CnT 
 
 •cfa;a 
 
 -japjnoqs jo qjSnaj ejoqAV 
 
 i £ £ 6 .S 
 
 CO 00 C5 ° 
 
 •japmq jo qjpm ajoqAV 
 
 .9 .9 .3 i .9 
 
 uaptnq jo qjSuaj ajoqAV 
 
 15 in. 
 
 17 in. 
 
 20 in. 
 
 22Jin 
 
 26 in. 
 
 •ptreqjsim jo t^piAV Qioq^v 
 
 ,d a d _d 
 
 •pmiqjsi.UA jo qjSuaj opqAV. 
 
 ,d a _d ^d a 
 
 “JBfloo jo qjpiAV ajoqAV 
 
 ' .3 .3 .3 .3 .5 
 
 CO oo O H (M 
 
 ■J13IJOO jo qjSttaj ajoqAV 
 
 1 1 f 1 1 
 
 •8A09[S JO IppIAV 
 
 a 3 3 3 c 
 
 i-O 0 N N CO 
 
 •9A80JS jo qjSnoj ejoqAV 
 
 6 nl. 
 
 7 nl. 
 
 8 nl. 
 
 9nl. 
 
 10 nl. 
 
 . •(eiqnop)jCpoqjo qjpiAV • 
 
 rd d d d 
 
 >». >> K t>> 
 
 •lapjnoqs tuo.ij Xpoq jo qjSnaq; 
 
 ■a ^ 'a ■a •a 
 
 =3 *2 eg c3 eg 
 
 d -a 13 d d 
 
 >» >> f»> >> 
 
 SIZES. 
 
 7 years. 
 
 10 years. 
 
 14 years. 
 
 17 years. 
 
 Man. 
 
 h cj « rp irj 
 
 6 o odd 
 ^ & {25 & £ 
 
DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING OUT. 
 
 FX.ABTNEZ. PETTICOAT. 
 
 \ i 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 <» 
 
 
 
 
 
 t 
 
 1 
 
 Dr body. 
 
 | 
 
 f 
 
 
 
 
 SIZES. 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 la 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 
 £ 
 
 J 
 
 ° 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 *3 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 1? 
 
 
 f 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 > 
 
 *3 
 
 
 
 No. 1.1 
 
 Infants. 
 
 9,10, or 11 nls. 
 
 IJtol^yd. 
 
 20 ins. 
 
 6 ins. 
 
 6f ins. 
 
 
 • . jj -M 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 Larger Infants. 
 
 10,11, or 12 nls. 
 
 If to H yd. 
 
 22 ins. 
 
 6f ins. 
 
 6f ins. 
 
 
 ( 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 2 Years. 
 
 8 or 9 nls. 
 
 if 
 
 25 ins. 
 
 ins. 
 
 6f ins. 
 
 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 5 Years. 
 
 10,11, or 12 nls. 
 
 lg to If yd. 
 
 27 ins. 
 
 7 ins. 
 
 6| ins. 
 
 
 
 No. 5. 
 
 8 Years. 
 
 13, 14, or 15nls. 
 
 If to If yd. 
 
 27 ins. 
 
 7£ ins. 
 
 7 ins. 
 
 
 ■ ' 
 
 No. 6. 
 
 12 Years. 
 
 16 or 17 nls. 
 
 If to 2 yd. 
 
 29 ins. 
 
 8 ins 
 
 7 ins. 
 
 
 ll 
 
 No. 7. 
 
 'Woman. 
 
 18,19, or 20 nls. 
 
 2 to 2f yd. 
 
 31 ins. 
 
 8 ins 
 
 8 ins. 
 
 
 
 The bodies to be made double , either of satteen or strong calico, and the 
 petticoats neatly plaited and set into them. The seams of the flannel 
 should go down the sides of the petticoat, and some persons like them 
 sloped a little at the seams, to prevent too much fulness at the top; but 
 in fine flannel this is unnecessary. From four to five inches should be 
 left plain, without plaits at the middle of the front. For infants the 
 petticoats should be bound round the bottom. 
 
DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING OUT. 
 
 BOYS’ BIBS, WITH SLBBVBS. 
 
 ,0A09 I S °1 may qjSnoq 
 
 1 1 .1 .1 3 1 
 «■■■■» » a* » . 
 
 8l U jxau jassnS jo qjpiAi. 
 
 1 ,1 3; 3 .11 
 
 Cl Cl ci* cT Sr w 
 
 9 T> JX8U ;9SSnS JO q ?P I AV 
 
 1 1 1 1 1 .1 
 * 
 
 •apis qo*a 
 
 ni jaj aaaid « jo^pLoS 
 -vip >qu H no‘?a 8S nS : qo8 N 
 
 -i 3-J l J I 
 
 3 3 S? „ ♦ T 
 
 
 1 i 5 l .1 1 
 
 , T „ 3 
 
 •(aiqnop papioj 
 eq oj) puuqjsioA jo q;pi A v 
 
 £ £ .1 1 1 .1 
 
 ^ ^ o us In' to 
 
 •ptreqjsu^ jo qiStKrj 
 
 3 £ £ £ £ 1 
 g g; . T . 
 
 • 8 AO 0 JS jo q^pjAV 
 
 12 ins.' 
 
 13 ins. 
 
 p: 
 
 16 ins. 
 
 18 ins. 
 
 •0A.99J8 JO qjSnarq 
 
 13 ins. 
 
 15 ins. 
 
 16* ins. 
 
 : 171 ins. 
 
 18 ins. 
 
 19 or 20 ins. 
 
 •icnoo jo qjpt AV 
 
 1 1 1 1 .1 1 
 
 » >- ? ® ® » 
 
 •« IIO o jo qjSuarp 
 
 12 ins. 
 
 13 ins. 
 
 14 ins. 
 
 15 ins. 
 
 16 ins. 
 
 17 or 18 ins. 
 
 •qtq jo qjpiAi 
 
 t t t t t t 
 
 H H J ^ ^ ^ 
 
 •qtq jo qjSnarj 
 
 t t ; t t t 
 - % •* ~ s 
 
 1 
 
 ~ oi n -* us <o 
 
 & A i & & A 
 
DIRECTIONS FOB CUTTING OUT. 
 
 BOYS’ CAPS. 
 
 SIZES. 
 
 if 
 
 til! 
 
 I 
 
 it 
 
 j- a 
 
 Depth of cap at top. 
 
 Depth from top to back I 
 
 of the neck. 
 
 No. i. 
 
 15| ins. | 
 
 14 ins. 
 
 7 ins. 
 
 2f ins. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 16 J ^9. 
 
 15 ins. 
 
 8 ins. 
 
 3i ins. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 17* ins. 
 
 16 ins. 
 
 8* ins. 
 
 3* ins. 
 
 No. 5. 
 
 20 ins. 
 
 18* ins. 
 
 9i ins. 
 
 4 ins. 
 
 i Cap. x full s 
 
 Top gathered and set in to a crown. 
 
 In these calculations allowance is 
 made for runners and for turning in. 
 
 i 
 
 j 
 
 i 
 
 k 
 
 i! 
 
 i 
 
 
 K 
 
 'ii 
 
 
 
 
 •Hu 5 
 
 
 
 
 B'o 
 
 
 
 
 
 2| inches- 
 
MODEL TABLES. 
 
 Two Model TaMes are liere given for registering the progress 
 of each child through the several branches of Needle-work. 
 
 The first Table will show the progress from one Division to 
 another—each Division comprising Four Classes. The second 
 Table is designed for the more minute account of the advance¬ 
 ment of pupils from Class to Class. 
 
 A few names are inserted in each Table as examples of the way 
 in which they are to be filled up—and it will be only necessary 
 further to observe, that in the columns of Divisions or Classes 
 the dates are expressed by figures—the first figure representing 
 the number of the month, and the second figure the number of 
 the day. The List may be ruled to contain fifty names. 
 
 The discretion of the persons over the School will determine 
 which List is to be used. 
 
 SCH 
 
 OOX. RESISTSY.-NEEDLr.’; 
 
 MiTTOVAT, Sfl 
 
 VORK CLASSES. 
 
 HOOL—1835. 
 
 
 
 Registry 
 
 Number. 
 
 Class Number. 
 
 NAME. 
 
 1st Division. 
 
 | 
 
 s 
 
 3rd Division. 
 
 3 
 
 S 
 
 346 
 
 1 
 
 Mary Sharman, . 
 
 1/14 
 
 1/29 
 
 4/27 
 
 7/16 
 
 274 
 
 2 
 
 Jane Armstrong, . 
 
 2/4 
 
 1/05 
 
 
 
 357 
 
 3 
 
 Fating Murphy, . . . 
 
 • 3/14 
 
 7/9 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
SPECIMENS 
 



 
 Specimen, No, 3.] 
 
 SECOJS'S ©SASS. 
 
 SEWING. 
 
 [See Page 13. 
 
 in 
 
 i 
 
 I -i 
 
 i] I 
 
 ill 
 
 ■■ Ml» m 
 
 sli 
 
 
 
 {I 
 
 ' 
 
 ’ 11 f ■ 
 
 m 
 
 [83] 
 
 • ■ • . .. 
 
 
 
 “; v '';-;. 
 
 • .. y, ■ . 
 

 THSE25 CStASS. 
 
 Specimen, No. 4.] 
 
 KEN AND FELL SEAM. 
 
 Specimen, No, 5.] SEW AND FELL SEAM. 
 
 [Nee Page 14. 
 
 [See Page 14. 
 
STITCHING. 
 
 [See Page 15. 
 
EIGHTH CIiASS— continued. 
 
 Specimen, No. 12 .] BOLTON SAMPLER. [See P.^e 20. 
 


 

Specimen, JYo. 18 .] 
 
 KTXKTTH CZ.ASS —continued. 
 
 DOUBLE DIAMOND DARN. [gee Page 24 . 
 
Specimen, No. 19.] 
 
 IJIBTTH Cl,ASS —continued. 
 
 STOCKING DARN. 
 
 [Nee Page 24. 
 
 [ 97 ] 
 
NINTH GLASS— continued, 
 
 TARTAN PLAID DARN. 
 
 This Darn is done in the same manner as the “Twill Dam.” 
 
 (St* Pag* 22.) 
 
i 
 
 

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