BOSTON A GUIDE BOOK BY EDWIN M- BACON CATHOLIC EDUCATIONAL ASSOCIATION 1909 GINN 3c COMPANY BOSTON A GUIDE-BOOK i By EDWIN M. BACON WITH IL Revised Edition, 1908 ATIONS AND MAPS \ Hancock House! ytfty 1737-1863 GlN^N & COMPANY, PUBLISHERS 29 BEACON STREET, BOSTON TOe Sttfrensettm Press r * Copyright, 1903 By Ginn & Company GINN-tf-CoMPANY ChtTlt&raarumPfts BOSJoNh^YoRKCHlC/GO UDNDONiSAN-FRANdS© ATLANTA: DMiAS OOUIMBUS i ALL RIGHTS RESERVED 68.6 2> BOSTON COLLtot Lkbmtt' CHESMITHiLUAM ft 00 NOV 1 8 »88 CONTENTS PAGE Introductory v The Way about Town ... v Principal Hotels of Boston . viii Theaters in Boston .... ix Convenient Churches in Boston ix Modern Boston . . . 1 Historical Sketch . . . 1 Boston Proper .... 2 i. The Central District 4 2. The North End . . 54 3. The Charlestown District 65 4. The West End . . 68 5. The Back Bay . . . 74 6. The South End . . 92 7. The Outlying Districts 94 East Boston . . . 94 South Boston . . . 95 Roxbury District . 95 West Roxbury Districl 96 Dorchester District 97 Brighton District . 97 The Metropolitan Region 98 Cambridge and Harvard . . 98 Brookline 109 The Newtons and Weston . 116 Newton and Wellesley . . 119 Natick and Needham . . . 123 The Southern Newtons . . 124 Waltham . . . . . .-. , 126 Watertown . . . . : . 128 Milton and the Blue Hills : -.. 136 Quincy '. ".' * iff' Dedham 137 Winthrop and Revere . . 139 Page Chelsea 142 Somerville, Medford, and Maiden 143 Winchester 145 III. Public Parks 146 Boston City System . . . 146 Metropolitan System . . . 148 IV. Day Trips from Boston 152 Lexington and Concord . . 152 The North Shore .... 159 Lynn 159 Nahant 159 Saugus 159 Marblehead 160 Salem 160 Salem Itinerary . . . 161 Peabody 161 Danvers 161 Beverly 161 Gloucester 161 Rockport 161 The South Shore .... 167 Hingham 167 Cohasset 167 Scituate 167 Marshfield ...... 168 Duxbury 168 Kingston 168 Plymouth 168 V. Excursions and Tours . 171 VI. Important- -Points of Interest . . . . . . 175 Index 177 PUBLISHERS' NOTE The chief merit of any guide is that it brings the history of its subject to the present moment. Such has been the intent in the preparation of this little book. It is something more than a guide book to Boston : it is an historical itinerary, a progress from past to present. Its scope embraces, besides the municipality of Boston proper, the various com- munities which are comprehended in the term " Greater Boston " ; his- torical places and literary shrines beyond these limits, as Salem, Plymouth, and Concord ; the North Shore and the South Shore of Massachusetts Bay. Care has been taken to provide the visitor with every possible aid to the convenient and comfortable exploration of the territory treated. Diagrams and trip maps are scattered through the pages ; the typographical arrangement, with the use of varied types to emphasize places, points, and objects, is designed to make the mate- rial available for quick reference ; the text is profusely illustrated ; and at the back of the book are a series of plate maps, printed in colors to render them the more distinct in detail. In the mechanical execution the publishers have endeavored to present a tasteful book, in shape and appearance convenient and attractive. It is intended in all respects to be the standard Boston Guide Book. Among the distinctive and superior features of this guide are the following : i. The material is original and has been obtained by reference to original sources and documents. For this reason this guide is espe- cially authoritative and trustworthy. 2. The eight pages of color maps at the back of the book, and the numerous diagram maps inserted in the text, provide unusually adequate map material, at once convenient and exhaustive. Those who are accustomed to spread out in the wind the large folder maps commonly to be found in guide books of this character will doubtless appreciate the superiority of these small sectional maps and diagrams. 3. In other respects the guide is made most convenient. A helpful table of contents, the logical arrangement of the material, the running titles, and above all a complete alphabetical index, attain this end to an admirable degree. Strangers will find the section entitled " The Way About Town " (pp. v to viii) particularly valuable. INTRODUCTORY THE WAY ABOUT TOWN m i 3^^ ImbI y/ Old Boston Museum The peak was finally cut down in the thirties, and Pemberton Square was then laid out through the Greene estate as a place of genteel residences in blocks, which character it sustained till the late sixties. On the east side the Boston Museum, razed in 1903 to make way for a modern business structure, long stood the oldest playhouse of the city. 22 KING'S CHAPEL BURYING GROUND For more than half a century it was a familiar landmark. At first the museum proper, with its halls of marvelous curiosities, was the chief feature of the institution, the performances being subordinate to these attractions, and the theater being called " the lecture hall," to quiet the consciences of its patrons, who shied from the openly pro- claimed playhouse. William Warren, the "prince of comedians," as Bostonians delighted in calling him, was identified with the Museum for forty years. Here Edwin Booth made his first appearance on any stage. From King's Chapel to Park Street Church. King's Chapel Burying Ground, adjoining the old stone church, is very nearly as ancient as the town of Boston. The exact date of its establishment is not known, but it was probably soon after the beginning of the settlement, for this record appears in Winthrop's journal: " Capt. Welden, a hopeful young gent, & an experienced soldier, dyed at Charlestowne of a consumption, and was buryed at Boston wth a military funeral." And Dudley wrote that the young man was "buryed as a souldier with three volleys of shott." The earliest interment of record here was that of Governor Winthrop in 1649. ^ * s believed that his third wife, Margaret Winthrop, who followed him to New England the year after he came out and who died two years before him, was also buried here. In the same tomb are the ashes of other distinguished Winthrops, — the Massachusetts governor's eldest son and grandsons : John Win- throp, Jr., the governor of the Connecticut Colony, who died in 1676, and John Jr.'s two sons, Fitz John Winthrop, governor of the United Colonies of Connecticut (died 1707), and Wait Still Winthrop, chief justice of Massachusetts and sometime major general of the forces of the Colony (died 17 17). A second Winthrop tomb contains the dust of Professor John Winthrop of Harvard College, the friend of Franklin and correspondent of John Adams (died in 1779). The first Winthrop tomb is seen not far from the middle of the ground. Beside it is the tomb of Elder Thomas Oliver of the First Church, which subsequently became the property of the church ; and close to this a horizontal tablet informs that " here lyes intombed the bodyes of ye famous reverend and learned pastors of the First Church of Christ in Boston, viz:" John Cotton, aged 67 years, died 1652; John Davenport, 72 years, died 1670; John Oxenbridge, aged 66 years, died 1674; and Thomas Bridge, aged 58 years, died 1715. Near by are the modest gravestones of Sarah, "the widow of the beloved John Cotton and excellent Richard Mather," and of Elizabeth, widow of John Davenport. In the middle of the ground is the marble monument to Colonel Thomas Dawes, a leading Boston mechanic of his day, who died in KING'S CHAPEL 23 1809, and near it the tomb of Governor John Leverett. A few steps distant is that of the Boston branch of the Plymouth Colony Winslow family. Here are the ashes of John Winslow, brother of Governor Edward Winslow, with those of the former's wife, who was Mary Chilton, one of the Mayflower passengers, heroine of the popular but apoc- ryphal tale of the first woman to spring ashore from the Pilgrim ship. In a cluster of ancient tombs are those of Jacob Sheafe, an opulent merchant of Colony times, in which was afterward buried the Rev. Thomas Thacher, first pastor of the Old South Church (died 1678), who married Sheafe's widow; and of Thomas Brattle (died 1683), said probably to have been the wealthiest merchant of his day, whose son Thomas became a treasurer and benefactor of Harvard College. A tomb of especial interest in this quarter is the Benjamin Church tomb, for herein were deposited the remains of Lady Andros, the wife of Governor Andros, who died in February, 1688, and of whose funeral in the nighttime from the Old South Meetinghouse Sewall gives a quaint account in his diary. Other tombs of note are those of Major Thomas Savage, one of the commanders in King Philip's War, and Judge Oliver Wendell, grandfather of Oliver Wendell Holmes. Many of the old tombstones here have been shifted from their proper places and made to serve as edge stones along the paths beyond the principal gateway. This vandalism was the performance years ago of a superintendent of burials who was possessed with an evil " eye for symmetry." King's Chapel in part occupies the upper end of this burying ground, which extended originally to School Street, the land having been taken by Governor Andros in 1688 for the first Episcopal church, no Puritan landholder being found who would sell for such a purpose. This building dates from 1754 and is the second King's Chapel on the spot. Its aspect has been little changed, beyond the enrichment of the interior, from Province days. The low solid edifice of dark stone, with its heavy square tower surrounded by wooden Ionic columns, stands as it appeared when it was the official church of the royal governors. The stone of which it is constructed came from Quincy (then Braintree), where it was taken from the surface, there being then no quarries. It was built so as to inclose the first chapel, in which services were held for the greater part of the time consumed in the slow work, — about five years. Peter Harrison, an Englishman who came out in 1729 in the train of Dean Berkeley to have part in the dean's projected but never established university, was the architect. His model was the familiar English church of the eighteenth century ; so the visitor sees in the fashion of the interior, its rows of columns supporting the ceiling, the antique 24 KING'S CHAPEL pulpit and reading desk, the mural tablets and the sculptured monu- ments that line the walls, a pleasant, likeness to an old London church. Memorials of the first chapel are preserved in the chancel. The com- munion table of 1688 is still in use. Several of the mural tablets are of the Provincial period. On the organ are in their ancient places the gilt miters and crown, which were removed at the Revolution and deposited in a place of safety. Among the tablets on the northern wall is one to the memory of Oliver Wendell Holmes. This was placed in the autumn of 1895. The inscription was composed by President Eliot of Harvard University. - " >v "' :r L^-'-f At the Evacuation the venerable rector, Mr. Caner, fled with the Loyalists of his parish, taking off with him to Halifax the church registers, plate, and vest- ments, but most of these were in later years restored. The last Loyalist service before the Evacua- tion was on the preceding Sunday. In less than a month after the Evacuation the chapel was reopened for the obsequies of General Joseph Warren, who fell at Bunker Hill, and on that occasion the orator, Perez Morton, advocated independ- ence. For more than two years thereafter the chapel was closed. Then it was opened to the Old South congregation, and it was used by the latter for nearly five years, when their meeting- house was restored. In 1782 the remnant of the society renewed their services with the Rev. James Freeman as " reader." In 1 787 Mr. Freeman was ordained as rector, and at that time this first Episcopal church in New England became the first Unitarian church in America. A bust of Mr. Freeman is among the mural monuments. The original King's Chapel of 1688 was a small wooden structure, built at a cost of ^284 16 s, contributed by persons throughout the Colony, with subscrip- tions from Andros and other English officers. For more than two years before its erection the Episcopal congregation had joint occupancy of the Old South Church with its proper owners, by order of Governor Andros against their earnest and constant protest. The church organization was formed in 1686, under the aggressive leadership of Edward Randolph, with the Rev. Robert Rat- cliffe as rector, who had come from England commissioned to establish the Church of England in the Colony. The use of any of the Congregational meet- inghouses being denied them, the projectors of the church founded it in the "library room" of the Town House. This was their place of meeting till Andros ordered the Old South opened to them. When Andros was overthrown King's Chapel TREMONT TEMPLE 25 the rector and his leading parishioners were imprisoned till their return to Eng- land (see p. 19). The remnant of the congregation resumed services in the chapel, which was finished a few months after Andros's departure. In 1 7 10 the chapel was enlarged to twice its size. Then the exterior was embellished with a tower surmounted by a tall mast half-way up which was a large gilt crown and at the top a weathercock. Within the enlarged chapel the governor's pew, raised on a dais higher by two steps than the others, hung with crimson curtains and surmounted by the royal crown, was opposite the pulpit, which itself stood on the north side at about the center. Near the governor's pew was another reserved for officers of the British army and navy. Displayed along the walls and suspended from the pillars were the escutcheons and coats of arms of the king, Sir Edmund Andros, Governors Dudley, Shute, Burnet, Belcher, and Shirley, and other persons of distinction. At the east end was " the altar piece, whereon was the Glory painted, the Ten Commandments, the Lord's Prayer, the Creed, and some texts of Scripture." The communion plate was a royal gift. Less than a block beyond King's Chapel, on the opposite side of Tremont Street, we come to the Granary Burying Ground, established only about thirty years after the Chapel Burying Ground (in 1660), and of greater historic interest, perhaps, because of the more numerous memorials here. On the short walk from the Chapel we pass the site of the birthplace of Edward E. Hale, covered by the upper part of the Parker House. This hotel also covers, on its School Street side, the site of the home of Oliver Wendell, the maternal grandfather of Oliver Wendell Holmes, for whom he was named. On Bosworth Street, the first passage opening from Tremont Street, opposite the burying ground, — a courtlike street end- ing with stone steps which lead down to a more ancient cross street, — was Doctor Holmes's home for eighteen years from 1841, the "house at the left hand next the farther corner," which he describes in " The Autocrat." The Tremont Temple, next above the Parker House, is the building of the Union Temple (Baptist) Church, founded in 1839, a free church from its beginning. It is the fourth temple on this site, each of the previous ones having been destroyed by fire. The first one w r as a theater remodeled in 1843. The playhouse was the Tremont Theater, first opened in 1835, one of the most interesting of its class and time. It was here that Charlotte Cushman made her debut, in April, 1835 ; that Fanny Kemble first appeared before a Boston audience ; that operas were first produced in Boston. In the large public hall of the second Tremont Temple Charles Dickens gave his readings during his last visit to America, in 1868. 26 GRANARY BURYING GROUND The large Tremont Building opposite occupies the site of the Tre- mont House, a famous inn through its career of more than sixty years from 1829, of which Dickens wrote, "it has more galleries, colon- nades, piazzas, and passages than I can remember, or the reader would believe." Preceding the inn, fine mansion houses with gardens were here, one of them being the estate of Thomas Handasyd Perkins, a genuine "solid man of Boston," a benefactor of the Boston Athenaeum and of other Boston institutions. On the gates of the Granary Burying Ground, set in their high ivy-mantled stone frame, are tablets inscribed with the names of many of the notables buried here. They include governors of various periods, — Richard Bellingham, William Dummer, James Bowdoin, Increase Sumner, James Sullivan, and Christopher Gore ; signers of the Declaration of Independence, — John Hancock, Samuel Adams, and Robert Treat Paine ; ministers, — John Baily (of the First Church), Samuel Willard (of the Old South Church), Jeremy Belknap (founder of the Massa- chusetts Historical Society), and John Lathrop (of the Second Church) ; Chief Justice Samuel Sewall; Peter Faneuil; Paul Revere; Josiah Franklin and wife, parents of Benjamin Franklin ; Thomas Cushing, lieutenant governor, 1 780-1 788; John Phillips, first mayor of Bos- ton, and father of Wendell Phillips; and the victims of the Boston Massacre of 1770. Besides these, others of like distinction are entombed here, among them James Otis ; the Rev. Thomas Prince, the learned annalist ; the Rev. Pierre Daille, minister of the French church formed by the Huguenots who came to Boston after the revocation of the Edict of Nantes; Edward Rawson, secretary of the Colony ; Josiah Willard, Granary Burying Ground ■ il V."!ii GRANARY BURYING GROUND 27 secretary of the Province; and John Hull, the "mint master " of 1652. General Joseph Warren's tomb was here (the Minot tomb, adjoining that of Hancock) from after the obsequies in King's Chapel in 1776 till 1825. Then his remains were removed to the Warren tomb under St. Paul's Church. In 1855 they were again removed, being finally deposited in the family vault in Forest Hills Cemetery, Roxbury Dis- trict. Wendell Phillips (died 1884) was also temporarily buried here, beside the tomb of his father, at the right of the entrance gate. After the death of his widow, two years later, his remains were removed to Milton and placed by her side. The most conspicuous monuments here, all in view from the side- walk, are the bowlders marking the tombs of Samuel Adams and James Otis, the former near the fence, north of the entrance gate, the latter, also near the fence, south of the gate ; the monument to Benjamin Franklin's parents, in the middle of the yard; and the John Hancock monument, in the southwestern corner. The inscriptions on the Adams and Otis bowlders give these records Here lies buried Samuel Adams Signer of the Declaration of Independence Governor of this Commonwealth ,, A leader of men and an ardent patriot Born 1722 Died 1803 * Here lies buried James Otis Orator and Patriot of the Revolution Famous for his argument against Writs of Assistance Born 1725 Died 1783 Adams's grave is in the Checkley tomb, which adjoins the sidewalk ; Otis's is in the Cunningham tomb, bearing now the name of George Longley. The bowlders were placed by the Massachusetts Society of the Sons of the Revolution in 1898, as the inscriptions show. The epitaph on the Franklin monument was composed by Franklin, and first appeared on a marble stone which he caused to be placed here. The granite obelisk was provided by a number of citizens in 1827, when the stone had become decayed, and the inscription was reproduced on the bronze tablet set in its face : 28 GRANARY BURYING GROUND Josiah Franklin and Abiah his wife, lie here interred. They lived lovingly together in wedlock fifty-five years. Without any estate, or any gainful employment, By constant labor and industry, with God's blessing, They maintained a large family comfortably, and brought up thirteen children and seven grandchildren reputably. From this instance, reader, Be encouraged to diligence in thy calling And distrust not Providence. He was a pious and prudent man ; She, a discreet and virtuous woman. Their youngest son, In filial regard to their memory Places this stone J. F. born 1655, died 1744, ^Etat 89. A. F. born 1667, died 1752, 85. The Hancock monument is a steel shaft, erected in 1895 close by the Hancock tomb, set against the wall of one of the buildings which back on the yard. It is simply inscribed : Obsta Principiis This memorial erected A.D. MDCCCXCV. By the Com- monwealth of Massachu- setts to mark the grave of John Hancock. Near by the Hancock tomb is a dilapidated slate slab with the inscrip- tion, " Frank, servant of John Hancock Esq'r, lies interred here, who died 23d Jan'ry 1771, get at 38." The graves of the victims of the Boston Massacre are unmarked. For- merly a beautiful larch tree grew over the spot. It is said to be twenty feet back from the sidew T alk fence and sixty feet south of the Tremont Building. The grave of Benjamin Woodbridge, the young victim of the duel on the Common in 1728, is midway between the gate and Park Street Church, near the fence. The inscription on the upright stone informs us that he was " a son of the Honourable Dudley Woodbridge Esq'r," and " dec'd July ye 3d, in ye 20th year of his age." PARK STREET CHURCH 29 Hancock Monument, Granary Burying Ground One stone that many seek here, and some have seemed to identify, is not to be found, if we are to accept the word of an. authoritative antiquary. This is the tablet marking the grave of " Mother Goose." According to the late William H. Whitmore, who, in his " Genesis of a Boston Myth," marshaled strong evidence to sustain his assertion, " Mother Goose " was not Elizabeth Vergoose, the worthy seventeenth-century matron, as has been alleged ; nor was " Mother Goose " a name that originated in Boston. In this yard, as in King's Chapel Burying Ground, many of the old stones were years ago ruthlessly shifted from the graves to which they belonged, which caused the remark of Dr. Holmes that " Epitaphs were never famous for truth, but the old reproach of ' Here lies ' never had such a wholesale illustration as in these outraged burial places, where the stone does lie above and the bones do not lie beneath." Park Street Church, with its graceful spire, picturesquely finishing the corner of Tremont and Park streets, dates from 1809. It is the best example remaining in the city of the early nineteenth-century ecclesias- •,.■/ v r tical architecture. It was designed by an English ,, v . . |l . architect, Peter Banner, but the Ionic and Corin- thian capitals of the steeple were the work of the Bostonian Solomon Willard. It was the first Trinitarian church estab- lished after the invasion of Unitarianism in the Puritan churches, and the fervor with which the unadulterated orthodox doctrine was preached by its earlier ministers made its pulpit famous, and led the unrighteous to bestow upon the point which it faces the title of " Brimstone Corner." Its history is notable. It is marked as the place in which " America " was first publicly sung. The hymn was written by the Rev. Samuel F. Smith to fit some music for Dr. Lowell Mason, music master of Boston, and was given for the first time at a children's celebration here on July 4, 1832. Here on a preceding 4th of July (1829), William Lloyd Garrison, then not yet twenty-four years old, gave his first public 3° PARK STREET CHURCH address in Boston against slavery. In 1849 Charles Sumner gave his great address on " The War System of Nations," at the annual convention of the American Peace Society, which that year began to hold its sessions here. This remained the Peace Society's regular place of meet- ing for a long period. The patriotic sermons of the Civil War preached here by Dr. A. L. Stone j ■ft.. .A^ 3 ; I .■■■. "H 1 ^* i h 5H t, j 2. \ Park Street Church (minister of the church from 1849 to 1866) been called "a part of Boston history." have This church occupies the site of the town granary, a grain house (first set up on the Common, opposite, in 1737) from which grain was sold to the needy by the town's agents. It was from its proximity to the granary that the old burying ground got its name. Looking up Hamilton Place, opposite Park Street Church, we see the side of the old Music Hall, now a theater. This is a building of pleasant memories. It was erected in 1852, projected chiefly by the Harvard Musical Association, then the representative of classical orchestral music in Boston. Nearly thirty years later (1881) the Boston Sympho7iy Orchestra began its career here, under the generous patronage of Henry L. Higginson. Once the hall had in its "great BOSTON COMMON AND ITS SURROUNDINGS 3* organ" one of the largest and finest instruments in the world, but this was permitted to be sold and removed at a time when the hall was undergoing alterations. For some years, during the latter part of his life, Music Hall was Theodore Parker's pulpit ; and at a later period that of W. H. H. Murray, after he had been a pastor of Park Street Church. Boston Common and its surroundings. Situated in the heart of the city, the Common is unique among municipal public grounds. Its existence and preservation are due to the wise forethought of the first settlers of the town. Its integrity rests primarily on a town order passed in 1640, reserving it as open ground, or common field. This was strengthened by a clause in the city charter forbidding its sale or lease. Subse- quent acts prohibit the laying out of any high- way or street railway upon or through it, or the taking of any part of it for widening or altering any street,with- out the consent of the citizens. Beacon Street Mall It dates actually from 1634, four years after the settlement of the town, when it was laid out as " a place for a trayning field " and for " the feeding of cattell." A training field in part it has remained to the present day, and cattle did not cease to graze on it till the thirties of the nineteenth century. Originally it was larger than it is now, extending to the Tremont Building on Tremont and Beacon streets in one direc- tion, and across Tremont Street to West and Mason streets in another. The taking from the north end for the Granary Burying Ground in 1660 was its earliest curtailment. On the west side, where is now Charles Street, it at first met the Back Bay, the waters of which came up to this line. Its present extent is 48! acres, exclusive of the old burying ground on part of its south or Boylston Street side. Its surface has been much made over, but without obliterating altogether its old-time contour. The broad tree-lined malls which traverse it display the taste and large-mindedness of the later town and earlier city fathers. Many majestic elms which once embellished the place have been destroyed by time and changes. The building of the Subway beneath the Tremont Street mall removed the oldest row and some of the finest of them ; 3 2 BOSTON COMMON AND ITS SURROUNDINGS but there yet remain numerous stalwart specimens, with other varieties of trees, shading and beautifying the several paths. Of the monuments here the Army and Navy Monument, the granite Doric column of which reaches above the trees, is most conspicuous. This occupies the highest elevation in the inclosure, the point where the British artillery were stationed during the Siege. It is the work of Martin Mil- more, and was erected in 1877. The statues on the projecting pedestals of the plinth represent the Soldier, the Sailor, the Muse of History, and Peace. The bas-reliefs JgJj-L, between them depict The Departure of the Regiment, The Sanitary Commission, The Achievements of the Navy, and The Return from the War and Surrender of the Battle Flags to the Governor. The figures on these bas-reliefs are mostly por- traits of soldiers or citizens prominent in the Civil War period. The sculptured figures at the base of the shaft typify the North, South, East, and West. The crowning statue represents the " Genius of America." The monument bears this inscription, written by President Eliot of Harvard University: To the men of Boston who died for their country on land and sea in the war which kept the Union whole, destroyed slavery and maintained the Con- stitution, the grateful city has built this Soldiers' Monument monument that their example may speak to comittg generations. At the foot of this hill, on the east side, stood the " Great Elm " till its fall in a windstorm in 1876, supposed to have been old when the town was settled, the scene of executions in early Colony days, — perhaps that of Anne Hibbens for "witchcraft " in 1656, a limb of the tree serving for gallows. An iron tablet marks the spot, and in its place is another elm grown from a shoot of it. Not far from the " Great Elm" the Quakers were executed. Beneath its branches it is sup- posed that the fatal duel in which young Woodbridge was slain (see p. 7) took place. Near by lies the historic " Frog Pond," so called, as the town wits have it, because it was never known to harbor a frog. The real frog PARADE GROUND 33 pond was the Horse or Cow Pond, a shallow pool where the cows slaked their thirst or cooled their legs, which lay in the lowlands about the present band stand. The present pond is the survivor of three marshy bogs originally within the Common. It was the scene of the formal introduction of the public water system in 1848, for which cele- bration James Russell Lowell wrote his Ode on Water. West of the Frog Pond lies the Parade Ground, which represents, in small compass, the original training field of the Colonial trainbands. It has been the chief mustering place in war times from Provincial to modern days. In 1775, when the Common was the British camp, the force for Bunker Hill was arrayed here before crossing the river to Charlestown. In the preceding April the detachment that moved on Lexington and Concord started from near it, taking boats on the bay. Now it is the place where the Ancient and Honorable Artillery Com- Frog Pond pany with great gravity go through their annual time-honored evolu- tions, and the boys of the school regiments have their clever May trainings. The granite shaft with its bronze figure of " Revolution," commemo- rating the Boston Massacre of 1770, popularly called the Crispus Attucks Monument, stands in the green facing Lafayette Mall on the Tremont Street side. It is by Robert Kraus, and was erected by the State in 1888. The bas-relief on the base reproduces a crude contem- porary picture of the scene published in London together with the " Short Narrative " authorized by the town. The inscriptions are these words of John Adams and Webster : On that night the foundation of American Independence was laid. JOHN ADAMS. From that moment we may date the sever- ance of the British Empire. DANIEL WEBSTER. The names of the victims are inscribed on the shaft. 34 BOSTON COMMON AND ITS SURROUNDINGS The promenade of Lafayette Mall is the finishing feature of the Subway work on this side of the Common. It extends over the Subway between Park and Boylston streets, and at Boylston Street joins a narrower walk which follows the Subway course on that side to Charles Street, passing by the picturesque old Central Burying Ground (estab- lished 1756) which has among its graves those of Gilbert Stuart, the painter, and M. Julien, the restaurateur, whose fame as the introducer of Julien soup survived him. While these walks lack the fringes of noble English elms which characterized the earlier malls here, especially the Tremont Street mall which once had three magnificent rows, they have attractions in the bordering masses of other trees and in their openness to the spacious street-ways free from street-car tracks. Being in the heart of things Lafayette Mall is an animated thorough- fare. Close by is the principal theater quarter of the city. On the opposite side of the way are Keith's Theater (fronting on Washington Street, next east of Tremont) and the Tremont Theater (near the, site of the second playhouse built in Boston, — the Haymarket of 1796). On Washington Street (with its rear entrance near the West Street corner of Tremont) is the Boston Theater, and a little way above this the Park Theater. On Tremont Street again, just above Boylston Street, is the Majestic Theater. On Hollis Street, off Tremont, is the Hollis Street Theater (its house including the brick walls of the third Hollis Street Church dating from 1808, the pulpit of John Pierpont and Thomas Starr King, and the successor of the earlier Hollis Street Church of Mather Byles, the " Tory, wit, and scholar," used, neverthe- less, by the British for barracks during the Siege). On Boylston Street, opposite the Boylston Street walk, is the Colonial Theater (on the site of the first Boston Public Library building). In the same neighborhood is a notable group of hotels, including the Touraine on the southeast corner of Tremont and Boylston streets (occupying the site of the mansion house of President John Quincy Adams, birthplace of Charles Francis Adams, Sr.) and the Adams House on Washington Street (covering the site of the eighteenth- century Lamb Tavern, an early stagecoach starting place). A little above the latter, opposite the opening of Boylston Street, is a revo- lutionary landmark, the site of the Liberty Tree, the rallying place of the Sons of Liberty in the prerevolutionary period, where the effigies were hung in the Stamp Act excitement. The business building that now covers the spot displays on its front an old tablet with a repre- sentation of a tree and beneath these lines : Sons of Liberty, 1766 Independence of their country, 1776. BOSTON SUBWAY 35 The adjacent hotel, popularly known as " Brigham's," stands in place of the Liberty Tree Tavern, where the Liberty men refreshed them- selves after their meetings at the tree. " Brigham's " was originally the Lafayette Hotel, erected to mark the historical spot in season for the great welcome to Lafayette on the Frenchman's memorable last visit to the country in 1824; and so was named in his honor. It was in com- memoration of this visit, very much later, — three quarters of a century afterward, — that Lafayette Mall received its name. The selection is based on a pretty incident of that visit. On the reception day the school children were lined up along Tremont Street mall, and, as Lafayette was passing in the procession, they cast bouquets in his path so that he walked upon a carpet of natural flowers. Midway up Boylston Street between Washington and Tremont streets is the building of the Young Men's Christian Union (instituted 1 851) with its stone clock tower. On the Tremont Street corner facing the Lafayette Mall is the white granite Masonic Temple (the second on this site, built in 1898- 1899), headquarters of the Grand Lodge of Massachusetts, and housing thirteen lodges. Occupying the streets east of the mall is the heart of the retail shop- ping quarter. Below the Temple Place corner, hedged in by busy stores, is St. Paul's Church, the fourth Episcopal church in Boston, dating from 1820, a Grecian-like temple of gray granite, the hexastyle porticoes of Potomac sandstone. Solomon Willard carved the Ionic capitals ; Alexander Parris designed the whole. The pediment is bare, the original design of a bas-relief of Paul preaching at Athens never having been carried out. It was in one of the tombs beneath this church that General Joseph Warren's remains rested for thirty years after their second removal. In another tomb Prescott the historian was buried. At the head of the Park Street mall are the Park Street entrance and exit stations of the Boston Subway. The upper west side building is the entrance for south-bound surface cars and south-bound elevated trains ; the upper east building, an exit only ; the lower east building, both entrance and exit for north-bound elevated trains ; and the lowei Inside the Subway 36 BOSTON SUBWAY west building, entrance and exit for south-bound cars. Above the stair- ways of the Park Street entrance a bronze tablet, placed in commemora- tion of the initial opening of the Subway in 1897, gives the following data : This Subway authorized by the Legislatures of 1893 and 1894. Hon. Nathan Matthews, Jr., Mayor of the City of Boston. Built by the Boston Transit Commission. Howard Adams Carson, chief engineer. Begun at the Public Gar- den, 28 March, 1895, was opened to this point for public travel 1 September, 1897. The work was com- pleted throughout and the entire Subway opened September 3, 1898. Its length is about one and two thirds miles. Its course is shown by the accompanying map. The surface cars com- ing from the west and south enter at the Pub- lic Garden and make the loop at the Park Street Station, whence they re- turn and emerge at the Public Garden. Those coming from the north and east use that part of the Subway between Scollay Square and the North Station on Cause- Subway Route . , way Street. The elevated trains enter and leave at the ends at Pleasant Street and Causeway Street. The elevated system was initiated in 1900. The course of the line is indicated on the map on the opposite page. o>L4RKET S«J. •.-'-"^o>'° 5 s "^ y ~'~\m[ ,,jl)\| ADAMS sq. ojr0 " SCOLLAY SO.$||jj|t^ iB^^^ State House Mi ^^ MW^ Post Office ^^^ M^PARKST. \ Common M \ PWBOYLSTOn ST. BOYLSTO* * T - |J£ SouthUnion Stal 1 i i The Subway is owned by the city and leased to the Boston Elevated Railway Company for a term of years, at an annual compensation of 4% per cent of the net cost of the work. The number of cars passing around the Park Street loop during the busy hour is 245. About 28,000,000 passengers are annually handled at the Park Street Station. The construction of an additional system of tunnels and subways, four tracked, for elevated and surface-car use, was authorized by legislative act in 1902, SHAW MONUMENT 37 subsequently accepted by the people. This extends under Washington Street from its junction with Broadway, which leads to South Boston, and is to connect with the East Boston Tunnel and the existing Subway. At the head of the Beacon Street mall, opposite the State House, is the Colonel Robert Gould Shaw Memorial, facing Beacon Street, between two majestic elms, the most imposing piece of outdoor sculpture in the city. Colonel Shaw was the commander of the Fifty-fourth Regiment of Massachusetts Infantry, com- posed of colored troops, in the Civil War, and was killed at the head of his command while lead- ing the assault on Fort Wagner, NORTH I'NION STA MAY-MARKET SO & >. £5ADAMS SO , SCOLLAYS«£J W STATE | / EJOld State Ho. State House D A J p rowesE Iwmakt parkst£? n Post Office ment commemorates the colored soldiers in that event as well as their leader. It consists of a statue of Colonel Shaw mounted, with his men pressing close beside him, in high relief upon a large bronze tablet. The sculptor was Augustus St. Gaudens, and the architect of the elaborate stone frame was Charles F. McKim. The inscriptions are unusually extensive and interesting, includ- ing verses of James Russell Lowell and Emerson and a memorial by President Eliot. The monument was erected and dedicated in 1897. Its cost was met from a fund raised by voluntary subscriptions. On the opposite side of Beacon Street, just below Hancock Avenue, — the walk along the west side of the State House grounds, — is the site of a long-cherished landmark, the removal of which occasioned regrets that grow keener as time advances. This was the mansion house of John Hancock. The site is marked by a modest bronze tablet set in the low iron fence in front of the brownstone building, the present publishing house of Messrs. Ginn & Company, which now occupies the spot : C:-i4_~L33T0'WN \ M5T, ' NO. HAMPTON ST KOX.BURY ©1ST. Elevated Railway Route 38 JOHN HANCOCK HOUSE Here stood the residence of John Hancock, a prominent and patriotic Merchant of Boston, the first Signer of the Declaration of American Independence, and First Governor of Massachusetts, under the State Constitution. At the time of its demolition the mansion, besides being of exceptional historic value, was a rare type of our provincial domestic architecture, and was well fitted by situation and character for preservation as the official dwelling of the governors of the Com- monwealth, as was proposed some years before. The main struc- ture was then nearly as in Governor Hancock's day, when it was called the " seat of his Excel- lency the Governor," and it contained much of the furnishings and appointments of his time, with the family portraits by Copley and Smibert. A measure for its purchase by the state for the governor's house was reported to the Legislature in 1859 by an influential committee; but the project failed. At length, in February, 1863, the land which it occupied was sold. For a while thereafter it served as a museum of historical relics, and then, a scheme for its removal and reerection elsewhere failing, it was pulled down. Souvenirs of it were eagerly sought as it fell. The knocker on the front door was given to Dr. Holmes, who placed it on the door of the " old gambrel- roofed house " in Cambridge, where it remained till that also was demolished. The flight of stone steps which led up to the entrance are now in service on Pinebank, Jamaica Park. The purchasers of the land, J. M. Beebe and Gardner Brewer, two leading Boston merchants, erected the present stately double house here for their occupancy. Messrs. Ginn & Company became established in No. 29 in 1901, and their business offices fully occupy the spacious interior. Shaw Monument JOHN HANCOCK HOUSE 39 The old mansion was of Quincy granite obtained from the surface, as in the case of King's Chapel, squared and well hammered. The principal features of the fagade were the broad front door at the head of a flight of stone steps, gar- nished with pillars and an ornamental door head ; and the ornamented central window over it. The high gambrel roof with dormer windows showed a carved balcony railing inclosing its upper portion. The interior comprised a nobly paneled hall, having a broad staircase with carved and twisted balusters, which divided the house in the middle and extended through on both stories from front to rear. On the landing, part way up the staircase, was a circular-headed window looking out upon the garden, with a broad and capacious window seat. On the entrance floor, at the right of the hall, was the great dining-room, seven- teen by twenty-five feet, also elaborately paneled from floor to ceiling. Until the widening of Beacon Street the house stood well back from the street on ground elevated above it. The approach was then through a " neat garden bordered with small trees " and shrubbery. The mansion then, also, had two large wings, one on the east side containing a great ballroom, the other on the west side appropriated to the kitchen and other domestic offices. Beyond the west wing was the coach house, and adjoin- ing that the stable. Behind the mansion were the gar- dens and fruit-tree nurseries, extend- ing up the side of the then existing peak of Beacon Hill where the State House Annex stands. The mansion with the estate came to John Hancock in 1777, upon the death of Lydia Hancock, widow of his uncle, Thomas J"^ Hancock Hoi Hancock, who built the house. The estate then included the territory occupied by the State House, and extended along Beacon Street to Joy Street. During the Siege Lord Percy occupied the mansion for some time. Let us now step back to the opposite side of Beacon Street a moment and take a sweeping survey of the fine line of Beacon Street houses down the hill. Standing by the Joy Street steps to the Com- mon, which lead to the head of Holmes's " Long Path " (the mall running southward across the Common's length to Boylston Street, — the scene of the crisis in the "Autocrat's" courtship of the schoolmistress), w T e have the best point of view. Looking westward at the lower corner of Walnut Street, the next opening below Joy Street, we see the house in which Wendell Phillips was born. Lower down is the Somer- set Club, — the stone double-swell-front house originally the " David Sears mansion," — by the site of the house in w T hich John Singleton Copley lived when painting his remarkable Boston portraits. Still farther The .737-1863 4o STATE HOUSE down, below the next side opening, we catch a glimpse of the painted brick "swell" of the Prescott house (No. 55), the home of the historian William H. Prescott through the last fourteen years of his life. From the State House to the Old South. The front of the State House, with its terraced lawn, occupies the cow pasture of the Han- cock estate, comprising about two acres, which the town purchased of John Hancock's heirs for four thousand dollars and conveyed to the Commonwealth. This is the historic " Bulfinch Front," designed by Charles Bulfinch and erected in 1 795-1 797. It alone constituted the Massachusetts State House for more than half a century. Then a new part, extend- ing back upon Mt. Vernon Street, was added (1853-1856), which came to be called the " Bryant Addition," from its principal architect, J. G. F. Bryant ; and finally the "State House Annex " was erected (1889-1895; Charles E. Brigham, architect), extending back from the Bryant Addition, with the archway over Mt. Vernon Street, to Derne Street, in ex- terior design and ornamentation harmonizing with the Bulfinch Front. Standing on the highest point of land in the city proper, the yellow dome of the Bulfinch Front (the " Gilded Dome " since 1874, when gilt was first applied to it) is a familiar landmark in every direction by day, while at night, lighted up by encircling rows of electric lights, it is a glistening beacon visible for many miles. Till 181 1 the main peak of Beacon Hill rose directly behind the Bulfinch Front, a grassy cone-shaped mound about as high as the dome. On its broad, flat summit the Beacon was set up as early as DORIC HALL 4 1 1634, from which the name of the entire hill came, it having earlier been called Centry Hill, from a lookout established here. The Beacon was to warn the country on occasions of danger. It consisted of an iron skillet filled with combustibles for firing, suspended from an iron crane at the top of a high mast, with treenails in it for its ascent. This and its suc- cessors stood for more than a century and a half, but it never seems to have been fired for alarm. During the Siege the British pulled the Beacon down and erected a fort in its stead. It was reerected after the Evacuation and stood till 1789, when it was blown down in a gale. After the Revolution the first Independence monument in the country was set up on this sightly peak (1 790-1 791), — a plain Doric column of brick covered with stucco, on a base of stone, and topped with a gilded wooden eagle supporting the American arms, — the work of Bulfinch, now reproduced in stone and standing in the State House Park on the east side of the long building. When the peak was cut down (in 181 1- 1823, its earth going principally to fill the North Cove which became the Mill Pond) this monument was destroyed, only the inscribed tablets and the eagle being reserved. The tablets are inserted in the base of the present monument. A w T ooden effigy of the eagle is now over the President's chair in the Senate Chamber. The main approach to the State House, up the long sweep of broad stone steps from Beacon Street, leads to the spacious porch from which opens Doric Hall, the main hall of the Bulfinch Front. The bronze statues on the terrace lawn are : on the right as we ascend, Daniel Webster, by Hiram Powers, erected in 1859 by the Webster Memorial Committee ; on the left, Horace Mann, by Emma Stebbins, erected in 1865, a gift from school children and teachers of the state, who gave the fund for its execution in recognition of Horace Mann's service in developing the system of popular education in Massachusetts. In Doric Hall we see the statue of Washington in marble, by Sir Fran- cis Chantrey, given to the state in 1827 by the Washington Monument Association ; and the marble statue of John A. Andrew, the " war gov- ernor," by Thomas Ball, erected in 1871, the cost being met from a surplus of $10,000 remaining from the fund subscribed for the statue of Edward Everett in the Public Garden. Set in a side wall near these statues are two memorials of the Washington family, — fac- similes of the tombstones of the ancestors of Washington, from the parish church of Brington, Northamptonshire, England, given to the state by Charles Sumner in 1 861, to whom they were presented by Earl Spencer. Against the walls on either side of the Washington statue are tablets to the memory of Charles Bulfinch, and commemorating the "preservation and renewal of the Massachusetts State House." 42 STATE HOUSE On the side walls are portraits of sixteen governors of Massachusetts. Four brass cannon are placed against the wall, two of them consecrat- ing the names of Major John Buttrick and Captain Isaac Davis, heroes of the fight at Concord Bridge, April 19, 1775, the other two, cannon captured in the War of 181 2. From Doric Hall we enter the passageway leading into the " Grand Staircase Hall," and from the latter pass into "Memorial Hall," the crowning feature of this floor. In the passageway a large bronze case contains the colors carried by Massachusetts soldiers in the Spanish War and returned to the custody of the Commonwealth. They were deposited here July 31, 1901. The skylight in the ceiling here, it will be observed, is decorated with a representation of Liberty surrounded by the names of various republics. The Grand Staircase Hall is an effective piece of marble work. The great painting on the north, wall represents " James Otis Making his Famous Argument Against the Writs of Assistance in the Old Town House in Boston, in February, 1761." The scene is the Council Chamber of the Old State House. The painter was Robert Reid. The staircases here are of Pavonazzo marble. The right-hand flight leads to the Senate Chamber and rooms ; the left side to the Executive Depart- ment. The balcony formed by the third-floor corridor is surmounted by twelve Ionic columns. Its windows at the south are emblematic of Commerce, Education, Fisheries, and Agriculture. At the head of the stairs are the seal of the colony, 1628-1684, and the seal of the state carved in marble. The marble Memorial Hall in circular form rises to a dome with bronze cornice environed by the eagles of the Republic, the crest of the Com- monwealth appearing above, in cathedral glass, surrounded by the seals of the other twelve original states. The gallery is supported by six- teen pillars of Sienna marble. The four niches with glass fronts contain the battle flags carried by the Massachusetts Volunteers in the Civil War, and in each niche is a framed extract from the address of Governor Andrew upon receiving them (all but a few which were returned later) on Forefathers' Day, December 22, 1865. In other arched recesses are busts of Massachusetts governors. The large paintings on the walls are : north wall, " The Pilgrims on the May- flower" ; south wall, "John Eliot Preaching to the Indians," — both by Henry Oliver Walker; west wall, "Concord Bridge, April 19, 1775"; east wall, " The Return of the Colors to the Custody of the Common- wealth, December 22, 1865," — both by Edward Simmons. Beyond Memorial Hall the main staircase leads to the floor upon which is Representatives Hall. This chamber is finished in white STATE LIBRARY 43 mahogany, with paneled walls. The coved ceiling is embellished with frescoes by Frank Hill Smith. The historic codfish is suspended opposite the Speaker's desk between the two central columns. In the lobby the statue of Governor Roger Wolcott (placed 1907) is by Daniel C. French. On the east side are the rooms of the Secretary of the Commonwealth, in which are to be seen precious documents incased in asbestos boxes, — the Colony Charter of 1628, the Prov- ince Charter of 1692, the Explanatory Charter of George II, and the original Constitution of the Commonwealth, with an attested copy made in 1894, the original having become in part illegible. In the archives, on the fourth floor, belonging to this department are, with much other valuable historical material, the military records of the Narragansett War, of the French and Indian Wars, and the muster and pay rolls of the Revolution, the original depositions and exam- inations of persons accused of witchcraft, and manuscript papers of the Revolution. In the State Library, at the north end of the building, is to be seen in a glass-covered case the famous Bradford Manuscript, the " His- tory of Plimoth Plantation " by Governor William Bradford, popularly but erroneously called the Log of the Mayflower. This is the volume which after various adventures found lodgment in the Library of the Bishop of London's Palace at Fulham, and was returned to the Com- monwealth by the Bishop of London through the efforts of Senator Hoar of Massachusetts and the Hon. Thomas F. Bayard, ambassa- dor at the Court of St. James. It was received in behalf of the Com- monwealth by Governor Wolcott, May 26, 1897. The State Library contains 125,000 volumes. C. B. Tillinghast is the librarian. The Executive Department and the quarters of the Senate are in the Bulfinch Front. The Council Chamber, fashioned in the Corinthian order, has the old ornamentations designed by Bulfinch. In the Gover- nor's Roo?ns are several portraits of note. In the Senate Chamber, occu- pying niches, are busts of Washington, Franklin, Lafayette, Lincoln, and Representatives Hall — The H 44 STATE HOUSE PARK distinguished Massachusetts men. • The gilded eagle above the Presi- dent's chair, with the national and State flags, holds in its beak a large scroll inscribed, " God Save the Commonwealth of Massachusetts." In the Senate Reception Room are numerous interesting relics. Among them are the first king's arms captured from the British, at Lexington, on the 19th of April, 1775, and the fowling piece used that morning by Captain John Parker, the commander of the minutemen there, — both gifts to the State from his distinguished grandson, Theodore Parker, the preacher and reformer. There are also a Hessian hat, sword, gun, and drum captured at the battle of Bennington, August 16, 1777, which were presented to the State by Brigadier General John Stark. On the walls are portraits of twenty-two governors, including an original portrait of John Winthrop. The State House Park, on the east side of the long building, is a spread- ing lawn fringed with young trees, shrubs, and flowers, space for which was obtained by discontinuing two or three fine old streets and remov- ing the well-favored dwellings that faced upon them. Beneath a con- siderable part of it are great coal bunkers for the large supply of coal required for the State House. The reproduced Bulfinch Monument in stone occupies as near as may be the position of the original one. It is an exact copy of that in dimensions, and the eagle at its top follows the original drawing of Bulfinch's bird. The inscription on the bronze tablet in the base gives this concise chapter of history : In 1634 the General Court caused a Beacon to be placed on the top of this hill. In I'jgo a brick and stone monument designed by Charles Bulfinch replaced the Beaco?i, but was removed in 1811 when the hill was cut down. It is now reproduced in stone by the Bunker Hill Monument Association. i8 l6 3S- This schoolhouse stood where the chancel and pulpit of King's Chapel are now. It gave the street its name. It was built in 1645 (previous to which the school was held in the master's house), and remained on this spot for upward of a cen- tury. Then in 1 748 another build- ing was erected on the opposite side where is now the Parker House. The present is the fifth building of the school. In the long roll of Latin School pupils appear the names of Franklin, Hancock, Samuel Adams, and Robert Treat Paine ; Cotton Mather, Henry Ward Beecher, James Freeman Clarke, Edward Everett Hale, and Phillips Brooks ; Ralph Waldo Emerson, John Lothrop Motley, and Francis Parkman ; Presidents Leverett, Langdon, Everett, and Eliot of Harvard University; Charles Francis Adams, Sr., Charles Sumner, and William M. Evarts. Boston City Hall The heavy granite City Hall (built 1862- 1865), of elaborate design, calls only for a passing glance. It succeeded a Bulfinch building on the same site, — a Court House (predecessor of the present "Old Court House "), refitted for a City Hall. The bronze statues in the yard are more interesting. That of Benjamin Franklin was the first portrait statue set up in Boston (1856). It is the work of Richard Greenough. CITY HALL 49 The fund for its erection was raised by popular subscription. The four bronze medallions in the sunken panels of the pedestal represent as many periods in Franklin's career. The other statue, of Josiah Quincy, is by Thomas Ball, and was placed in 1879. I* represents the elder Quincy as he appeared in mid- dle life when mayor of Boston. The base is a block of Quincy granite. A marble statue by William W. Story, in Memorial Hall at Cambridge, represents Quincy in later life, or when president of the college. We may stop a moment at the building next beyond the foot passage by the side of the City Hall (another court dignified with the term of avenue), and observe the in- scribedjire-back set in its vesti- bule wall. The inscription relates that on this site from 1785 to 181 5 was the dwelling of Dr. John Warren (brother of Joseph Warren, killed at Bunker Hill), who was the first professor of anatomy and surgery in Harvard Uni- versity. The fire-back came from the old house. At the end of School Street the ancient building long known as the "Old Corner Bookstore" lingers a weathered old relic of the past in one of the busiest quarters, although the booksellers finally left it in 1903. It dates from 1712. It had been a book stand since 1828. Its interest lies particularly in its literary associations, for in what is regarded now as the golden age of Boston literary activity — about the middle and third quarter of the nineteenth century — it was the chief literary lounge and calling place of the city. This was especially the character- istic of the "Old Corner" during the long years of its occupancy by- Ticknor & Fields and their immediate successors. The "Curtained Corner" of James T. Fields in the back part of the old book- shop has been much discoursed upon. George William Curtis in the " Easy Chair " called it " the exchange of wit, the Rialto of current good things, the hub of the hub. It was a very remarkable group of men, — indeed it was the first Old Corner Bookstore 5° OLD SOUTH MEETINGHOUSE group of really great American authors which familiarly frequented the corner as guests of Fields." Previous to this building there was here the Hutchinson Homestead, where lived that colonial dame, Anne Hutchinson, strong of mind and keen of wit, one of John Cotton's old Boston-in- England parishioners, who became the central figure in the violent antinomian controversy which tore the Colony in 163 7- 1638, and who was finally banished for heresy. In her little home here she instituted the weekly gathering of women to discuss the Sunday sermon after the fashion of the men, and so she is credited with having set up the first woman's club in America. The Old South Building opposite, the monumental business structure of stone and steel spreading between Spring Lane and around the Old South Meetinghouse to Milk Street, covers near its south- east end the site of Winthrop's second mansion (where he died), which was afterward and until the Revolution the parsonage house of the Old South, and which the British demolished together with the shading row of butternut trees before it, using them for firewood during the Siege. The tall walls of the ornate building close against the plain brick meet- inghouse and reaching above its tower, dwarf the historic structure, but add to its uniqueness. "When the tower porch is arched, as is proposed, for the sidewalk, which has been brought to the inner line of the widened street at this point, its appearance will further be improved. The Old South is now a loan museum of Revo- lutionary and other relics, Colonial furniture, and Old South Church portraits, open to the public for a modest fee, which goes to meet the cost of its maintenance. The interior is restored as far as possible to the aspect which it bore in the prerevolutionary period, when it was the scene of those great town meet- ings, too large for the old Faneuil Hall, which " kindled the flame that fired the Revolution," and in commemoration of which the meeting- house came to be called the " Sanctuary of Freedom." The tablet on the tower, over which the Boston ivy spreads, is inscribed with these historic dates : OLD SOUTH MEETINGHOUSE" * 51 Old South Church gathered 1669 First House built 1670 This House erected 1729 Desecrated by British troops 1775-6 The preservation of the meetinghouse is directly due to the efforts of an organization of twenty-five Boston women, under the title of the " Old South Preservation Committee," formed in the centennial year of 1876, at a critical juncture, when its demolition was imminent through the sale of the property for mercantile purposes. Public interest was aroused, " preservation meetings " were held with lectures, addresses, and poems by Emerson, Henry Lee, Lowell, Holmes, and others ; and finally this organization succeeded — Mrs. Mary Hemenway contributing $100,000 — in purchasing the estate subject to certain restrictions for $430,000. It is now used for the Old South Lectures to Young People, instituted by Mrs. Hemenway to promote among American youth a " more serious and intelligent attention to histor- ical studies, especially studies in American History," of which Edwin D. Mead is the director. The town meetings of greatest moment held here were those of June 14 and 15, 1768, upon the matter of the impressment of Massachusetts men by the com- mander of his majesty's ship of war Romney ; the long afternoon and early evening meeting of March 6, 1770, the day after the Boston Massacre, which brought about the removal of the British regiments from the town ; and the anti- tea meetings between November 27 and December 16, 1773, culminating with the " Tea Party " and the emptying of the cargoes of the tea ships into the harbor. The series of orations commemorative of the Boston Massacre was delivered here, Dr. Joseph Warren, three months before he was killed at Bunker Hill, pro- nouncing the second one, upon which occasion he was introduced through a window in the rear of the pulpit, the entrance doors and the aisles, and even the pulpit steps, being occupied by British soldiers and officers. During the Siege, when the meetinghouse was used as a riding school by Burgoyne's regiment of light dra- goons, the floor was cleared for their exercises, and cart loads of earth and gravel were spread over it. The pulpit, the pews, and all the inside structures except the sounding-board and the east galleries were taken out and most of them burned for fuel. One " beautiful carved pew," with silken furnishings, was carried off to a neighboring house and " made a hog stye " of. The east galleries were fitted for spectators, and in one of them was a refreshment bar. The south door was closed and a pole was fixed here over which the cavalry were taught to leap their horses at full speed. In the winter a stove was set up, in which were used for kindling many of the precious books and manuscripts of the Rev. Thomas Prince's New England Library, then deposited in the " steeple-room " of the tower. The manuscript of Bradford's " History of Plimoth " (see p. 43), and that of the third volume of Winthrop's Journal among them, were spared. In 52 BENJAMIN FRANKLIN'S BIRTHPLACE this tower study the Rev. Jeremy Belknap, the historian and the recognized founder of the Massachusetts Historical Society, did much work. The meetinghouse which preceded this, a " little house of cedar," was the one which Andros obliged the regular church organization to share with the first Episcopal church (see p. 24). That, too, was the place where Judge Samuel Sewall in 1697 published his " confession of contrition " for his share as a witch- craft judge in the " blood-guiltiness " at Salem five years before. It was also the meetinghouse where Benjamin Franklin was baptized on the day of his birth, January 17 (6 O. S.), 1706. In the neighborhood of the Old South is the newspaper quarter, Newspaper Row, extending below the curve of Washington Street, northward. Near it, also on Washington Street and Bromfield Street, are popular bookshops. From the Old South to the " Tea Party " Site. At the Old South we turn into Milk Street, but before doing so we should identify the site of the Province House, the official residence of the royal governors, cele- brated in Hawthorne's " Legends of the Province House." This build- ing stood nearly opposite the meetinghouse, well back from Washington Street, above a handsome lawn ornamented by two noble oaks at the street front. A bit of its wall yet remains backing upon Province Court, which is reached from Washington Street by a foot passage. It was a stately house of brick, three stories, with gambrel roof, and a high cupola surmounted by a figure of an Indian with drawn bow and arrow, another specimen of the handiwork of " Deacon " Shem Drowne, maker of the grass- hopper on Faneuil Hall. The approach was by a high flight of stone steps leading to a portico, over which appeared the royal arms in deal and gilt. It long outlived the Province period. After the Revolution it served the Com- monwealth a while as the Government House, for the sittings of the governor and council, and for state offices. Thereafter it fell to commercial uses, and in its latter days it was a hall of negro minstrelsy. It finally passed, all but the bit of wall, in a fire in 1864. It was built originally for a dwelling by an opulent merchant, Peter Sergeant, in 1667. The Province bought it for a governor's house in 1715. The Indian was preserved and is now in the collection of the Massachusetts Historical Society. Province Street and Province Court led to the rear grounds of the Province House. After the Revolution Province Street was for some time called the Governor's Alley. On Milk Street we pass the site of Benjamin Franklin's Birthplace, covered by the building No. 17, nearly opposite the side of the Old South, which bears on its front the legend " Birthplace of Franklin," with a bust of the philosopher. A little farther down, on the left, is the Federal Building, including the Post Office and the Federal courts, a gloomy pile of granite, chiefly FORT HILL SQUARE 53 interesting for its service in checking at this point the sweep of the Great Fire of November 9-10, 1872, the gravest of all great Boston fires. In the wall at the Milk and Devonshire streets corner is a tablet commemorating that disaster, from which the city was quick to recover. It states that this fire, "beginning at the southeasterly corner of Summer and Kingston Streets, extended over an area of sixty acres, destroyed within the business center of the city property to the value of more than sixty million dollars, and was arrested in its north- easterly progress at this point. The mutilated stones of this building also record that event." Federal Street, next below Devonshire Street, southward, is one of the main avenues to the South Station. It has two historic sites covered by business buildings. These are at or about the western corners of Franklin Street, the first street crossing Federal. One (northwest corner) is the site of the Federal Street Theater, the first regular playhouse in Boston, designed by Bulfinch and erected in 1794. The other is that of the Federal Street Church, the Boston pulpit of William Ellery Channing from 1803 till his death in 1842. We continue two blocks farther down Milk Street to Pearl Street, which opens from the lower end of Post Office Square, upon which the Federal Building fronts. Near the north side of this square is the site of the first office of the Liberator, the dingy little attic room where, in 1 83 1, William Lloyd Garrison began his most aggressive antislavery editorial work. The building stood on the northeast corner of Congress and Water streets until it was swept off in the fire of 1872. When Garrison was mobbed in 1835, and was given refuge in the Old State House, then the City Hall, the Liberator office was on Washington Street in a building backing on Wilson's Lane, now Devonshire Street, where the attack upon him began. Turning into Pearl Street we follow it to its end at Atlantic Avenue, where is the " Tea Party " site. Along the way we cross High Street, and looking down this street eastward we see in the distance the poplar trees of Fort Hill Square, which marks the site of Fort Hill, one of the three original hills of Boston, which vvas leveled in 1867-1872. The hill got its name from the fort which was erected on its summit in 1632, the first fort on the peninsula. It was then at the eastern extrem- ity of the town, directly opposite the harbor. In the second fort here, built in 1687, Andros took refuge at the time of the revolution which overthrew his government. The "Tea Party Wharf" was near the western line of the present Atlantic Avenue, close by Pearl Street. The tablet which we see on 54 THE NORTH END the avenue front of the building occupying the northern corner of the two streets marks the site as nearly as possible. The inscription, beneath the model of a tea ship, tells the story of the party concisely: Here formerly stood GRIFFIN'S WHARF at which lay moored on Dec. 16, 1773, three British ships with cargoes of tea. To defeat King George's trivial but tyrannical tax of three pence a pound, about ninety citizens of Boston, partly disguised as Indians, boarded the ships, threw the cargoes, three hun- dred and forty-two chests in all, into the sea, and made the world ring with the patriotic exploit of the BOSTON TEA PARTY. "No, ne'er was mingled such a draught In palace, hall, or arbor, As freemen brewed and tyrants quaffed That night in Boston Harbor." At this point we can take a surface car or, by walking to the next station northward, an elevated train, and ride to the North End for our exploration of that quarter. It is better, however, to take a south- bound car and return by way of Dewey Square (passing the South Station) and Summer Street to Washington Street, making our entry into the North End by the customary route from Scollay Square. 2. The North End The North End (see Plate III), though now bereft of many of the landmarks that once gave it an antique flavor and a peculiar charm to seekers of things old and historic, is yet a quarter to which the much- worn term "unique" may justly be applied. There still remain a few landmarks of great interest, and " historic sites " abound in this small and compact district. The first "court end" of the town, where the gentry had their fine mansions beside the many quaint humbler houses of the early Colonial period, it is now the foreign quarter of the city, with foreign signs in dingy shops and a swarming population of Rus- sians, Armenians, Israelites, Norwegians, Poles, Italians saluting our ears with a jargon of tongues. GREEN DRAGON TAVERN 55 We approach the North End by way of Hanover Street, which runs from Scollay Square to the Chelsea Ferry on the water front. At Union Street, the cross street next below Washington Street extension, we come to two historic sites of first importance. One is the site of the Green Dragon Tavern, the "headquarters of the Revo- lution." This stood on Union Street, a few steps off from the left side of Hanover Street. The spot is marked by a business building (No. 81, left side), high up on the face of which is a stone effigy of the tavern sign, — a sheet-copper, green-painted repre- sentation of a creature of forked tongue and curled tail, which couched upon an iron crane projecting over the entrance door. The tavern existed from 1680 or thereabouts, through Colonial, Provincial, and Republican days, till the twenties of the nineteenth century, when the lane which bore its name was widened to form the present street. It was at the Green Dragon that the prerevo- lutionary leaders held their secret councils and formed their plans of campaign. Here the Tea Party originated. It was the rendezvous of the night patrol of Boston Mechanics, instituted to keep watch upon the British and Tory movements. It was the chief meeting place of the " North End Corcus," one of the three clubs composed of patriot leaders and followers, which added the word " caucus " to our political nomenclature. It was also the first Free Masons' hall, the pioneer St. Andrews Lodge having been organized here in 1752, and in 1769 the first Grand Lodge of the Province, with Dr. Joseph Warren as Grand Master and Paul Revere a subordinate officer. The other site is that of Josiah Franklin's dwelling and chandlery shop, at "the sign of the Blue Ball," the boyhood home of Benjamin Franklin, where he worked for his father at candle-making and tended the shop. Near by was the " salt marsh " by the Mill Pond, on the edge of which he fished for minnows. The " Blue Ball " stood near the south- east corner of the junction of Union and Hanover streets. It held its place till the middle of the nineteenth century, when it was demolished in the widening of Hanover Street at this point. Its site is included in the street way. A stone's throw up Union Street (eastward) Marshall's Lane (now officially called street) opens from the left side, — one of the alleys or "short cuts" of old Boston, through which we must pass. It will bring 56 "BOSTON STONE, 1737" us back to Hanover Street close to the cross street next below Union Street. As we enter Marshall's Lane from Union Street we cannot fail to notice the low-browed brick building of eighteenth-century fashion which occupies the upper corner of the lane and street. This is inter- esting as the place where Benjamin Thompson of Woburn, who became Sir Benjamin Thompson and then Count Rumford, was a clerk or apprentice in his youth in Hopestill Capen's shop, selling imported stuffs to the fashionable folk of the provincial town. At the outbreak of the Revolution the Massachusetts Spy, afterward of Worcester, was printed on the upper floor of this building. Soon our lane makes a junction with another, — Creek Lane, which originally led to the Mill Creek, where is now Blackstone Street, as Marshall's Lane first led to the Mill Bridge across the creek. Here we see set against the base of a building a rough piece of stone with a spherical one on top of it marked "Boston Stone, 1737." This is only the relic of a paint mill which a painter brought out from England about 1700 and used in his shop close by. Perhaps he was Tom Child by name, to whom Sewall alludes in his diary: "Nov. 10, 1706. This morning Tom Child the Painter died." The monument was set up here some time after the painter's day, in imitation of the London Stone, to serve as a direction for shops in the neighborhood. A similar guide post, called the Union Stone, stood for some years at the entrance of the lane by Hopestill Capen's shop. In the front of the building at the outlet of the lane, on Hanover Street, is a carved reproduction of the London Painters' Guild, which is said to have been the sign of the painter who used the " Boston Stone." Opposite this monument we see, in the worn old structure on the corner of Creek Lane, the office of Ebenezer Hancock (brother of John Hancock), deputy paymaster general of the Continental army, where were deposited the funds in French crowns brought out by d'Estaing from America's ally, the king of France, which went to pay the arrears of the officers of the Continental line. The block beyond, facing Creek Lane, is "Hancock Row," built for stores by John Hancock after the peace. Again on Hanover Street, we cross to the other side and enter Salem Street, which starts off obliquely from Hanover Street and then runs parallel with it. Now we are fairly within the North End. It is a curious street, with strange denizens. In early Colony days it was fair Green Lane, upon which it was the dream of prospering Bostonians to live. At the corner of Stillman Street is the site of the first Baptist meeting- house, erected in 1679, on the border of the open Mill Pond then on this IN AND ABOUT NORTH SQUARE 57 side.. This was the meetinghouse which was closed against the pro- scribed sect and its doors nailed up in 1680 by order of the court; when the undaunted society held their services in the meetinghouse yard. Its descendant is the present First Baptist Church on Common- wealth Avenue, Back Bay. Prince Street, intersecting Salem Street mid- way, preserves more of the old-time aspect than other streets of the quarter. This street (first in part Black Horse Lane) was the direct way from the North End to the Charlestown ferry (where is now the Charlestown Bridge), and after the battle of Bunker Hill numbers of the wounded British were brought here to houses which were turned into temporary hospitals. The most important of these emergency hos- pitals was a fine new house near the lower end of Prince Street at the corner of Lafayette Street. This remained until the end of the nine- teenth century, being occupied for some years by a grandson of one of the Boston Tea Party. Another on Prince Street, nearer Salem Street, is the so-called Stoddard house, a narrow brick dwelling, still standing (No. 130). It is said that Major Pitcairn was brought to this house and died here from his wounds. On the westerly comer of Prince and Margaret streets is the house where long lived John Tileston, the school master, the rigid but beloved master for two thirds of a century of the oldest North End school, which became the Eliot School. In and about North Square. Taking Prince Street at the right we cross Hanover Street and enter North Square. This squalid trian- gular inclosure was the central point of the North End in its " elegant " days, when it was adorned with trees and dignified by neighboring mansions. It is now the heart of the Italian colony. At its outlet upon North Street is the one landmark here of historic value. This is the little low house of wood, hedged in by ambitious modern structures, marked as the home of Paul Revere. It was the versatile patriot's dwelling from about 1770 through the Revolution and until 1800, when, having prospered in his foundry, he bought a finer house on Charter Street near by and there spent the remainder of his days. This North Square house was old when Revere moved into it from his earlier home on North Street (then Fish Street). It was built soon after the great fire of 1676 in place of Increase Mather's house, the parsonage of the North Church, which went down with the meetinghouse in that disaster. It was in the upper windows of this North Square house that on the evening of the Boston Massacre Revere displayed those awful illustrated pictures which,' we read, struck the assembly of spectators " with solemn silence," while " their countenances were covered with a melancholy gloom." And well might they have shuddered. In the middle window appeared a realistic view of the 58 OLD NORTH CHURCH " massacre." In the north window was shown the " Genius of Liberty," a sitting figure holding aloft a liberty cap and trampling under foot a soldier hugging a serpent, the emblem of military tyranny. In the south window was an obelisk displaying the names of the five victims, in front of which was a bust of the boy Snider, killed a few days before the " massacre " in a struggle before a Tory shop which had been " marked " as one not to be patronized ; and behind the bust a shadowy, gory figure, with these lines beneath : Snider's pale ghost fresh bleeding stands And Vengeance for his death demands. Just below this house, at about the corner of North and Richmond streets, stood the Red Lion Inn of early Colony -days, kept by Nicholas Upsall, befriender of -the-proscribed Quakers, — the " Upsall gray with his length of days " of the " King's Missive," — who suffered banish- ment and imprisonment for his friendly acts. On Richmond Street was the birthplace of Charlotte Cushman (born 1816), whose name is perpetuated in the Cushman School near by. At the head of the square, on the north side, is the site of the Old North Church, which the British pulled down and used for firewood during the Siege. It stood between Garden Court and Moon streets. It was the second meetinghouse of the Second Church in Boston (instituted in 1649), built upon the ruins of the first one, burned in the fire of 1676. It became popularly known as the Church of the Mathers, from Increase, Cotton, son of Increase, and Samuel, son of Cotton Mather, successively its ministers. In the prerevolutionary period John Lathrop, a stanch patriot, was its minister, and it was the church which Revere attended. After the Revolution the lot upon which it had stood was set apart for the dwelling of Mr. Lathrop (who continued the minister till his death in 1816), and the society acquired the " New Brick Church " in the near neighborhood on Hanover Street, the successor of which was the Cockerel Church, so called from a copper weathercock which crowned its steeple — still another piece of "Deacon" Shem Drowne's clever work — and is now still doing service on the steeple of the Shepard Memorial Church in Cambridge. Mr. Lathrop's house on the old church lot was large and comfortable in appearance, with a row of poplars in the front yard, and on the Moon Street corner a weeping willow. These were all blown down in the destructive September gale of 18 15. The descendant of the Old North is the ivy-clad Second Church on Copley Square. Ralph Waldo Emerson was a minister of the Second Church from 1829 to 1832. In Garden Court Street stood the stately mansion of Governor Thomas Hutchinson (his birthplace), which was sacked and partly destroyed with much of its contents by the anti-Stamp- Act mob on the night of CHRIST CHURCH AND COPP'S HILL 59 August 26, 1765. It was a house of generous proportions, built of brick, painted " stone color," and set in ample grounds, the garden extending on one side to Fleet Street and back to Hanover Street. The interior was rich in finish and adornments. It is well pictured, although with fanciful touches, in Lydia Maria Child's early his- torical romance, "The Rebels, A Tale of the Revolution," published in 1852. It was here that Hutchinson wrote his " History of Massachusetts." The first volume was published in 1764. When the house was pillaged the second volume lay in the rich library in manuscript almost ready for the press. It was thrown out with other precious books and papers, and " left lying in the street for several hours in a soaking rain." But most fortunately all but a few sheets were carefully collected and saved by the Rev. Andrew Eliot, minister of the "New North" Church, living near by on Hanover Street, and the author was enabled to transcribe the whole and publish it two years later. Hutchinson and his family made their hurried escape from the house just before the mob reached it, finding refuge in neighboring dwellings. Hutchinson was first harbored in Samuel Mather's house on Moon Street, but was obliged to seek another refuge to avoid the threatening mob. Also occupying Garden Court Street with the Hutchinson house, and of similar elegance, was the Clark-Frankland mansion, so called from William Clark, a rich merchant who built it, and Sir Harry Frankland, who afterward lived in it. J. Fenimore Cooper pictured this house in " Lionel Lincoln," in his description of the residence of " Mrs. Lech- mere," which he placed on Tremont Street ; and Edwin L. Bynner por- trayed it in his novel of "Agnes Surriage." Both of these mansions lingered in picturesque decay till the thirties of the nineteenth century, when the Bell Alley entrance to the square was widened into Prince Street. During the Siege North Square was a military rendezvous with bar- racks for the soldiers, their officers occupying the comfortable dwellings about it. The building on the east side by Moon Street, now an Italian church, was originally "Father Taylor's Bethel" a sailors' church, built in the early part of the nineteenth century, long conducted by the Rev. Edward T. Taylor, one of nature's orators and a born minister to seafaring men. Christ Church and Copp's Hill. Now we return to Salem Street, cross- ing Hanover Street and passing through North Bennet or Tileston Street, either of which will bring us close to Christ Church and Copp's Hill, the predominating historic features of the North End to-day. As we cross Hanover Street we should give a glance at a little low house crowded back from the street line (a second story and roof above a 6o CHRIST CHURCH projecting store) on the west side, just below North Bennet Street. This is a remnant of the house built in 1677 by Increase Mather after the fire in North Square. It was Dr. Mather's home till his death in 1723. Afterward it was long occupied by the Rev. Andrew Eliot and his son, John Eliot, ministers successively of the New North Church. From these ministerial occu- pants it is called the Mather-Eliot house. On North Bennet Street was the first grammar school in the north part of the town, established in 17 13, and on Tileston Street (named for the old schoolmaster) was the first writing school in the North End, begun in 1718. This street was at that time Love Lane, so called not from any sentimental characteristic that it possessed, but from a family by the name of Love who owned prop- erty about it. Christ Church is the oldest church edifice now standing in Boston, older by six years than the Old South, and by thirty years than King's Chapel. It was the second Episcopal church established in Boston. The corner stone was laid in April, 1723, when the Rev. Samuel Myles, then rector of King's Chapel, officiated, accompanied, says the record, "by the gentlemen of his congregation." The ceremony closed with the prayer, " May the gates of Hell never prevail against it." It was certainly built well to withstand the assaults of time. The stone side walls are two and a half feet thick, and the construction throughout is substantial. The brick tower is of four floors. The first spire was described as the " most elegant in the town." That was blown down in a gale in October, 1805, but the present one, erected three years later, is said to be a faithful copy of it, preserving its proportions and symmetry. This tower has additional interest in that it was made from a model by Bulfinch. The tower chimes of eight bells, still the most melodious of any in the city, were first hung in 1744. Each bell has an inter- esting inscription. The tablet on the tower front bears this familiar legend : The signal lanterns of Paul Revere displayed in the steeple of this church April 18, J 775' warned the country of the fnarch of the British troops to Lexington and Coficord. Christ Church, Salem Street CHRIST CHURCH 61 This tablet was set in 1878, the statement it conveys being substan- tiated by several local historical authorities. Other recognized authori- ties, chief among them Richard Frothingham, the historian of the Siege of Boston, place these signal lanterns on the tower of the true Old North Church — the meetinghouse in North Square which the British destroyed. That Gage witnessed the battle of Bunker Hill from this tower is an undisputed statement. The interior of the church retains much of the old-time aspect. Among the mural ornaments is Houdon's bust of Washington, the first monumental effigy of Washington set up in the country. It was placed here only ten years after Washington's death. The figures of the cher- ubim in front of the organ and the brass chandeliers, destined originally for a Canadian convent, were given to the church in 1758 by the master of an English privateer, who captured them from a French ship on the high seas. An ancient " Vinegar Bible " and the old prayer books are still in use. The silver communion service includes several pieces bear- ing the royal arms, which were gifts from George II in 1733, at the instance of the royal Governor Belcher. The clock below the rail has been in place since 1746. Beneath the tower are old tombs. In one of them Major Pitcairn was temporarily buried. Some years later, when his monument was erected in Westminster Abbey and his English relatives sent for his remains, a box said to contain them was duly forwarded, but the grewsome tale is told that the sexton was not sure of his identification. The church is open to visitors for inspection upon application to the sexton ; fee, twenty-five cents. A block above, at the comer of Salem and Sheafe streets, is the site of the home of Robert Newman. He was the sexton of Christ Church in 1775 who, according to the tradition that its steeple was the place of the Revere signals, hung them out at the instance of John Puling, a warden of the church, and in Revere's confidence. At the time British officers were quartered in this house upon the Newman family. It stood until 1889. Near by, on Sheafe Street, was the birthplace of the Rev. Samuel F. Smith, author of " America." Up Hull Street, opening directly opposite Christ Church, a few steps bring us to the main gate of Copp's Hill Burying Ground, — a mob of youthful guides of both sexes and various nationalities pressing us along the way, rattling off with glib tongue the " features " of the region, and offering to show them, all and several, for a nickel. Hull Street per- petuates the name of John Hull, the maker of the pine-tree shillings. It was originally cut through Hull's pasture (in 1701), and the land for it was given by his daughter Hannah and Judge Sewall, her husband, 62 COPP'S HILL on the happy condition that it should retain this name "forever." Of the few old houses permitted to remain here, but one need engage our attention. This one is on the south side, distinguished from its neigh- bors in standing endwise to the street. It is the Galloupe, or Gallop, house, so called, dating from 1722, which Gage's staff made their head- quarters during the battle of Bunker Hill. The Gallops who occupied it through two generations were lineal descendants of Captain John Gallop, the earliest pilot in Boston Harbor, among the " first comers " of 1630, for whom Gallop's Island in the harbor is named. He also lived in the North End, " near the shore, where his boat could ride safely at anchor." In the Copp's Hill of to-day we see only a small remnant of the original eminence, the northernmost of the three hills of the penin- sula upon which Boston was planted. It now consists of an embank- ment left after cuttings of the hill, protected on its steepest sides by a high stone wall. At the time of the battle of Bunker Hill, when its summit was occupied by the British battery whose shot, under the direction of Burgoyne and Clinton, set Charlestown on fire, it termi- nated abruptly on the northwest side, opposite Charlestown, in a high cliff. This battery stood near the southwest corner of the burying ground on land afterward cut down. Perhaps its site was the same as that of the windmill of a century earlier, brought over from Cambridge and set up here in 1653, to "grind the settlers' corn," thereby giving the hill its first name of " Windmill Hill." It got its name of Copp's from William Copp, an industrious cobbler, one of the first settlers, who owned a house and lot on its southeast corner near Prince Street. The burying ground, which now goes under the general name of Copp's Hill, really comprises four cemeteries of different periods : the North Burial Ground (established in 1660, the same year as the Granary Burying Ground); the Hull Street (1707); the New North (1809); and the Charter Street (1819). The oldest section is the northeasterly part of the inclosure. It is the largest of the historic burying grounds of the city, and is especially cherished as a picturesque breathing place in a squalid quarter, as w T ell as for its associations. Among the noted graves or tombs w T hich we may find here are those of the Revs. Increase, Cotton, and Samuel Mather ; of Nicholas Upsall, the persecuted friend of the Quakers ; Deacon Shem Drowne, the " cunning artificer " ; the Rev. Jesse Lee, early preacher of Methodism in Boston, his first church being the Common, w T here Whitefield had preached fifty years before ; the Rev. Francis W. P. Greenwood, rector of King's Chapel 1824-1843; and Edmund Hartt, the builder of the COPP'S HILL 63 frigate Constitution. The tomb of the Mathers is near the Charter Street gate. A large memorial stone with bullet marks on its face attracts attention. It stands, as the inscription states, above the "stone grave ten feet deep," of " Capt. Daniel Malcom, mercht, who departed this life October 23d 1769 aged 44 years: a true Son of Liberty, a Friend to the Public, an Enemy of Oppression, and One of the foremost in opposing the Revenue Acts in America." This stone was a favorite target with the British soldiers quartered in the neighborhood during the Siege, and the bullet marks were made by them. Another stone, which stands toward the northwest angle of the ground, is also curiously marked. This commemorates " Capt Thomas Lake, aged 61 yeeres, an eminently faithful servant of God & one of a public spirit," who was "perfidiovsly slain by ye Indians at Kennibeck, Avgvst ye 14th 1676, & here interred the 13 of March following." A deep slit is across its face, into which the bullets taken from the captain's body were poured after being melted. The lead was long ago all chipped out by vandals. Captain Lake was a commander of the Ancient and Honorable Artil- lery Company in 1662 and 1674. Near the middle of the ground is the triple gravestone of George Worthylake, first keeper of Boston Light in the harbor, his wife and their daughter, all drowned while coming up to town in his boat one day in 17 18 — the mournful event that inspired Franklin's boyhood ballad of "The Lighthouse Tragedy" (see p. 17). A notable monument is to Major Samuel Shaw, a Revolutionary sol- dier, ancestor of Robert Gould Shaw. There are a number of vaults bearing sculptured slabs and heraldic devices. Here, as in the other old burying grounds, acts of vandalism have been committed in the past in the removal of several stones from their proper places, while sacrilegious hands have changed the dates on some tablets by transforming a 9 into a 2, as in 1620 for 1690, or 1625 for 1695. Others have taken stones away and utilized them in chimneys or drains, and two or three tombs have been desecrated by the substitution of other names for the rightful ones upon them. The treatment of the tomb of the Hutchinsons with its armorial bearings, where were deposited the remains of Elisha and Thomas Hutchinson, grandfather and father, respectively, of Governor Hutchinson, has been cited 1 as a flagrant case of this sort. In place of Hutchinson has been cut the name of Lewis, while the honored dust of these Hutchinsons is said to have been "scattered before the four winds of heaven." It appears, however, from researches made in 1906 by a loyal descendant of Thomas Lewis, that this tomb was duly sold to him in 1807 by a granddaughter of Thomas Hutchinson, the deed of record bearing the signature of 1 Bridgman's " Memorials of the Dead in Boston," 1852. 6 4 COPP'S HILL TERRACES Hannah (Mather) Crocker, a daughter of Rev. Samuel Mather and his wife, Thomas Hutchinson's daughter. It further appears that the Hutchinson bones lay in a corner of the tomb till between 1824 and 1825, when a grandson of Thomas Lewis caused them to be placed in a suitable box. Thomas Lewis was a deacon of the Second Church. A corner of the inclosure by Snowhill Street was originally used for the burial of slaves. Near the Charter Street gate is the "Napoleon willow," grown from a slip from the tree at Napoleon's grave. Copp's Hill Terraces, back of the burying ground, on Charter Street, extending down to Commercial Street, with the North End Park and Beach on the water front beyond, finish up rarely this fine open space. The terraces and the park are parts of the be- neficent Boston City Parks System. With a short stroll along Charter Street back to Hanover Street and across to the water front, our survey of the North End finishes. Charter Street got its name in North Station, Causeway Street _ r , _ 1708 from the Prov- ince Charter of 1692. Before that the street was a lane, and the lane was associated with the Colony Charter, for it is said that that docu- ment was hidden during the troublous days of 1681 in the house of John Foster, which stood at the corner of this and Foster Lane (now Street). On the westerly corner of Charter and Salem streets Sir William Phips, the first royal governor, built his brick mansion house when he became prosperous, thus fulfilling his dream, when a poor ship carpenter, of some day living on " the Green Lane of North Bos- ton." Where is now Revere Place, off Charter Street near Hanover, was Paul Revere's last home. On Foster Street was his foundry. Taking Battery Street from Hanover Street, we pass to Atlantic Avenue and North Battery Wharf, the site of the North Battery. Constitution Wharf, the next wharf north, marks the site of Hartt's shipbuilding yard where " Old Ironsides " was built ; also the frigate Boston. Lewis's Wharf, southward, opposite the foot of Fleet Street, THE CHARLESTOWN DISTRICT 65 marks in part (its north side) the site of Hancock's Wharf, upon which were Hancock's warehouses. On Atlantic Avenue we can take an elevated train at the Battery Street station (or surface cars, if we prefer) and return to our starting point at Scollay Square. 3. The Charlestown District The trip to Charlestown naturally follows the exploration of the North End. If we start from the latter quarter, taking an elevated train north (Battery Street station), we change at the North Station station to a Sullivan Square train. If, however, we elect to go from the business quarters, we have a choice of various trolley lines besides the elevated: some in the Subway (from Scollay Square station), others on the surface, several of the latter passing through Adams Square. The Chelsea cars pass by the Navy Yard. The elevated tracks, and surface tracks under them, pass over the new Charlestown Bridge (completed in 1900; composed of steel and stone; 1900 feet long, including the approaches, and 100 feet wide; draw operated by electricity; cost $1,400,000; built by the city of Boston). Trolley lines also cross the Warren Bridge. All the "features" of Charlestown can be included within the com- pass of a short walk. Chief of them, of course, is Bunker Hill Monument. This is only a block from the second station of the elevated line in the district, — Thompson Square (the first station being City Square, at the end of Charlestown Bridge), — and about a ten-minute walk from City Square. The United States Navy Yard (established in 1800), occupying " Moulton's Point," the spot where the British troops landed for the battle, is next in popular interest. The main gate is at the junction of Wapping and Water streets, and Water Street opens from City Square. The yard is open daily to visitors, admitted by passes which are to be obtained at the main gate. It is an inclosure of nearly ninety acres, attractively laid out, and with many interesting features. The marine museum and naval library occupy the oldest building in the grounds near the entrance gate. Another near-by point of interest is Winthrop Square (about a five-minute walk from City Square), the early Colonial training field, where are memorial tablets bearing the names of the Americans who fell in the battle of Bunker Hill ; also a Soldiers' Monu- ment (Civil War) by Martin Milmore, sculptor of the soldiers' monument on Boston Common. On Phipps Street, off Main Street, west side, near Thompson Square station of the elevated line, is the ancient 66 CHARLESTOWN DISTRICT burying ground in which is the monument to John Harvard, the first benefactor of Harvard College, designed by Solomon Willard and erected by graduates of the university in 1828. City Square and "Town Hill," which rises on its west side behind the Charlestown Branch of the Public Library (the City Hall when Charlestown was an independent city) are the parts in which the first settlement was made in 1629. The "Great House" of the governor, in which the Court of Assistants adopted the order giving Boston its name in 1630, stood on the west side of the square. The dwelling of the young minister, John Harvard, stood near the opening of Main Street, his lot extending back over the slope of " Town Hill." The "spreading oak" beneath which the first church, which became the first church of Boston, was organized by "Winthrop and his associates, was on the east- erly slope of this hill. The first " palisadoed" fort, set up in 1629 and lasting for more than half a century, was on its summit. The first bury- ing ground, where it is supposed was the grave of John Harvard, all traces of which long ago disappeared, was near its foot, toward the northern end of the square. The present church on the hill, facing Harvard Street, is the lineal descendant of the first meetinghouse of the Charlestown Church, organ- ized in 1632. An earlier church, on the same spot, was from 1789 to 1 82 1 the pulpit of Rev. Jedidiah Morse, author of the first geography of the United States, deserving of remembrance more especially as the father of Samuel F. B. Morse, the inventor of the electric telegraph and noted in art. When his distinguished son was born, Mr. Morse was living temporarily in the house of a parishioner, Thomas Edes, the par- sonage near the church being in building. This house is still standing, worn and dingy now, but preserved as the birthplace of Morse. We may see it on Main Street, above the Thompson Square station, marked with a tablet: "Here was born Samuel Finley Morse, 27 April 1791, inventor of the electric telegraph." The room was the front chamber of the second story on the right of the entrance door. This house was the first dwelling erected after the burning of the town in the battle of Bunker Hill. Bunker Hill Monument is on Breed's Hill, where the battle was fought. Monument Avenue, from Main Street, leads to the principal entrance of the monument grounds. In the main path we are confronted with the spirited statue of Colonel William Prescott in bronze, representing the American commander repressing his impatient men, as the enemy advances up the hill, with the warning words : " Don't fire till I tell you ! Don't fire till you see the whites of their eyes ! " This statue is by William W. Story, and was erected by the Bunker Hill Monument BUNKER HILL MONUMENT 67 Association in 1881. It is inscribed simply with Prescott's name and the date, "June 17, 1775." It stands on or close to the spot where Prescott stood at the opening of the battle when he gave the signal to fire by waving his sword ; but the statue faces in a different direction. The obelisk occupies the southeast corner of the American redoubt, and its sides are parallel with those of that structure, which was about eight rods square. It is built in courses of granite, the stone coming from a quarry in Quincy, whence it was carried to the shipping point by the first railroad laid in the country. It is thirty feet square at the base and two hundred and twenty feet high. Inside the shaft is a hollow cone, around which winds a spiral flight of stone steps, by which ascent is made to the top. Here is an observ- atory, seventeen feet high and eleven feet in diameter, with windows on each side. Before attempting the climb the visitor should consider the task. The steps number nearly three hundred, — to be exact, two hundred and ninety-five. There is reward, however, for the exertion when the summit is reached, in the magnificent view which it commands in every direction. The stone lodge at the base of the obelisk con- tains an interesting museum of memorials of the battle and a fine marble statue of General Joseph Warren by Henry Dexter (dedicated June 17, 1857). The spot where Warren fell is marked by a low stone in the ground. stone was formally laid by Lafayette, under the direction of the Massachusetts Grand Lodge of Masons, and Bunker Hill Daniel Webster delivered the oration. It remained Monument unfinished for nearly twenty years. Then, in 1840, largely through the efforts of American women, the required funds for its completion were raised. In July, 1842, the last stone was hoisted to its place, one of the workmen riding up on it and waving an American flag. When it was finally laid in cement the event was announced by a national salute. The com- pleted structure was dedicated on the 17th of June, 1843, when Webster was again the orator, and President Tyler with members of his cabinet was present. In the great throng that gathered on this occasion were a few survivors of the battle. The sculptor Greenough devised the monument, and Solomon Willard was the architect who superintended its construction. 68 WEST END Bunker Hill lies to the northward of Breed's Hill, toward Charles- town Neck, where the Elevated line ends. Its summit, higher than Breed's Hill, is occupied by " Charlestown Heights," overlooking the Mystic River, one of the most attractive of the Boston City Parks System. On Walker Street, on this hill, a short street extending from Main up to Wall Street, is still standing the house where Thomas Ball, the sculptor, was born. 4. The West End The West End (see Plate II) comprises that quarter of the city which lies north of the Common and between Beacon, Tremont, and Court streets, Bowdoin Square, Green Street and so northwest to the Charles River, and Charles Street to Beacon Street at the foot of the Common. It thus includes all of Beacon Hill. It is a fading quarter now, with a number of old Boston institutions, some mellow old streets, others in hopeless decay, and numerous landmarks, especially of literary Boston. In its better parts it retains more distinctly than any other quarter of the city the genuine Boston flavor. The most interesting part is the Beacon Hill section. We have seen its southern boundary in the fine line of Beacon Street architecture opposite the Common from the State House to Charles Street. Let us enter it, therefore, above Beacon Street; — from the State House Park through the archway to Mt. Vernon Street. Although " The Hill," as this was called in its proud days, par excel- lence, is not the oldest part of the West End, it has been from its upbuilding the choicest, and accordingly its associations are the richest. Up to the Revolution it was largely a region of fields and pastures. Until near the opening of the nineteenth century there were but two houses on the Beacon Street slope west of the Hancock mansion. The greater part of the territory below the Hancock holdings was the domain of John Singleton Copley, the painter (after his fortunate marriage), from about 1769 to 1795. The bounds of this "farm," as Copley called it, although it was chiefly pasture land, are indicated generally by the present Mt. Vernon and Pinckney streets on the north, Walnut Street on the east, the Common south, and the Charles River west. It included the homestead lot of the first European settler, William Blaxton, — he who was here before the Winthrop company, — with the " excellent spring " of which he " acquainted " the governor when he invited him hither. It was the acquisition of the Hancock pasture for the new State House, — the Bulfinch Front, — in 1795, tnat g ave the impulse to the development in this quarter. Then a " syndicate " purchased the HANCOCK, MT. VERNON, AND JOY STREETS 69 Copley estate at a bargain (Copley was at that time living in England), and in the course of a few years these now old streets appeared, built up substantially, in place of the Copley pastures and adjoining proper- ties. A half-century after it was remarked that on " the Copley estate live, or have lived, a large proportion of those most distinguished among us for intellect and learning or for enterprise, wealth and public spirit." On Mt. Vernon Street from the archway we are passing through what were the Hancock gardens. Hancock Street, coming up the hillside at our right, is the oldest of the streets here. It originally ran by the side of the peak of Beacon Hill over to the Common. It was given the governor's name in 1788. Near its foot, on the east side, is the Sumner house (No. 20) in which Charles Sumner lived from 1830 to 1867. Along the same side, extending from Derne Street nearly up to Mt. Vernon Street, stood from 1849 to J ^4 the Beacon Hill Reservoir, a massive granite structure with lofty arches piercing its front walls, notable as a superior piece of architecture. Its service as a distributing reservoir closed some time before its removal, clearing the way for the State House Annex. Joy Street, the first to cross Mt. Vernon, is next to Hancock Street in age. It used to be Belknap Street, the principal way to the negro quar- ters on the north slope of the hill. Midway in its descent to Cambridge Street a dingy court opens, Smith by name, in which is a landmark of antislavery days. This is the brick meetinghouse erected for the first African church (built in 1806), now a Jewish synagogue, which was used for abolition meetings. It was after a meeting held here on the evening of December 3, i860, commemorating the execution of John Brown, that Wendell Phillips was assisted to his home, then on Essex Street, by a volunteer guard of forty young men with locked arms, pressed closely by a threatening mob. At the fairer end of this street, near Beacon Street, is the Diocesan House (1 Joy Street), the headquarters of the Protestant Episcopal Church. Here are the offices of various church organiza- tions, the parlors of the Episcopal Church Association, and the library. Above (No. 3), is the house of the Twentieth Century Club, which con- cerns itself with many reforms, social, governmental, and philanthropic. As we proceed along Mt. Vernon Street, which grows in old-fashioned stateliness as it advances over the hill, we come upon a succession of houses with an interesting past. No. 49, on the north side, was long the home of Lemuel Shaw, chief justice of the Massachusetts Supreme Judicial Court for thirty years (1830-1860). Its near neighbor (No. 53), now the house of the General Theological Library, was once the dwelling of a merchant of distinction. The library which has succeeded it is an unsectarian institution established since i860, for the purpose of ;o WEST END "promoting religious and theological learning," having a collection of 21,000 volumes and some 5,000 pamphlets. It is a special library of standard and current theological books, that term being used in its broad sense to cover works on sociology, philosophy, comparative religions, and archaeological research. Its books are free to all New England clergymen ; and beyond " Greater Boston " they are furnished through the local public libraries. The Rev. George A. Jackson is the librarian. The head of the stately row of houses beyond, set back thirty feet from the street (No. 57), was the town house of Charles Francis Adams, Sr., during the latter years of his life. The next one in this row (No. 59), with its classic doorway, is most interesting as the last home of Thomas Bailey Aldrich, and associated with his ripest work. No. 65, transformed into an apartment house, so, unhappily, breaking the sym- metry of the row T , was formerly the home of Senator Henry Cabot Lodge, where some of his most notable historical writing was done. No. 79 was the home of Horace Gray during his long service on the Supreme bench of the State as justice and chief justice, before he w T as made a justice of the United States Supreme Court. The last house of the row (No. 83) was the last Boston home of William Ellery Channing, w r hose study here was the " Mecca of all sorts and conditions of men." On the opposite side of the street the ornate brow T nstone houses with lofty entrances, now the Theological School of Boston University, were hospitable mansions erected in the fifties of the last century by the brothers John E. and Nathaniel Thayer, eminent merchants of their time and benefactors of Harvard University. No. 76, just below, was the home of Margaret Deland for a number of years, during the period marked by her " Philip and His Wife." No. 88, on the low 7 er corner of little Willow Street (which connecting, nearly, with another little street across Chestnut Street provides a " short cut " to the Common), w r as once the home of Enoch Train, the projector of the line of fast clipper ships to Liverpool, fine craft which came into successful competition with the early ocean steamships. He was the father of Mrs. A. D. T. Whitney of Milton, the favorite writer of girls' stories. No. 92 was the home and studio of Anne Whitney during the years that she was model- ing some of her most notable statues — the Samuel Adams (see p. 15) and the Leif Ericson (see p. 79) among them. Louisburg Square, with its inclosed park of lofty trees and diminutive Italian marble statues of Aristides and Columbus at either end, sug- gestive of old London residential squares, connects Mt. Vernon with Pinckney Street, the latter with an air of shabby gentility yet borne with decorum. Blaxton's spring is believed to have been in the middle of PINCKNEY STREET 71 this square. The point is disputed by local historians, the popular location being in Spring Lane, north of the Old South Meetinghouse ; but the evidence in support of the Louisburg Square situation is accepted as conclusive by most authorities. The matter, however, is not of moment, for the town was full of springs when Blaxton " solicited " Winthrop hither. Blaxton's orchard spread back up the hill slope toward this square. His homestead lot of six acres, reserved after his sale of the whole peninsula to the colonists for thirty pounds, occupied the northwesterly slope of the hill, bounded southerly toward the Common and westerly on Charles River, the water's edge then being at the present Charles Street. His cottage, with its rose garden, was on the hill slope toward the Common, between the present Spruce and Charles streets. He moored his boat on the river, presumably at a point which jutted out from the bluff in which the hill ended, on the Charles Street side. At No. 10 Louisburg Square was the last Boston home of Louisa M. Alcott, where her remarkable father, A. Bronson Alcott, died (1888) in his eighty-ninth year ; her own death following the day of his funeral. No. 4 was the home of William D. Howells in the late eighteen-seventies, when he was a Bostonian editing the Atlantic. No. 20 is interesting as the house where Jennie Lind was married in 1852. On the upper corner of the square and Pinckney Street are the main house and the chapel of the Sisterhood of St. Margaret, Protestant Episcopal, where is St. Margaret's Hospital, one of the most worthy institutions of the city. The infirmaries occupy two additional houses on this square. Pinckney Street extends from Joy Street to the river, with but two streets crossing it. At the upper end was for forty years the home of Edwin P. Whipple, the essayist, the plain brick house, No. 11. Lower down, on the opposite side, the house No. 20 was the home of the Alcott family in the fifties of the last century, the scene of Louisa M. Alcott's early struggle in authorship mingled with domestic occupations. At No. 54, nearly opposite the opening of Anderson Street, was the early home of George S. Hillard, lawyer, editor, critic, and essayist, remem- bered especially through his " Hillard's Readers " of the mid-fifties. From this house Hawthorne in 1842 wrote his little note to the Rev. James Freeman Clarke requesting " the greatest favor which I can receive from any man," — the performance of the ceremony of his marriage to Sophia Peabody. Hillard lived for a much longer period at No. 62. On the lower slope of the street, below the square, at No. 84, was the first Boston home of Aldrich after his marriage, where Longfellow got the inspiration for " The Hanging of the Crane." The " Story of a Bad Boy" issued from this house. 72 WEST END On Mt. Vernon Street again we may see just below West Cedar Street the first home of Margaret Deland in this quarter, — No. 112, — where some of her earlier books were written ; and nearly opposite, at No. 99, the home of John C. Ropes, in his day the authority on Napoleonic literature. By West Cedar Sti'eet we cross to Chestnut Street, possessing in its entirety, perhaps, more of the old Boston flavor than the other streets of "The Hill." In the short block of West Cedar Street through which we pass, note should be taken on one side of the town house of Percival Lowell (No. 11), the astronomer and producer of notable books ; on the other side the house of Henry C. Merwin (No. 3), the essayist and literary authority on the American horse; and, at No. 1, the home of the Harvard Musical Association, organized in 1837 " to promote the progress and knowledge of the best music," and from its establishment a leading factor in the development of musical culture in Boston. Up Chestnut Street on one side and down on the other we shall pass a series of historic houses. No. 50, on the south side, was the town house of Francis Parkman, from 1864 until his death (1893) identi- fied with the most of his historical work in the preparation of his " France and England in North America." No. 43, nearly opposite, was for upwards of forty years the town house of Richard H. Dana, Sr., the poet; here he died (1896) at ninety-one. A little way above, the house presenting a side bay to the street (No. 29) was the sometime home of Edwin Booth, the actor. Higher up the street a group of three houses (Nos. 17, 15, and 13) arrest attention as examples of the best type of early nineteenth-century domestic architecture. The first was the long- time home of Cyrus A. Bartol, the "poet preacher" and essayist; the sec- ond is the ancestral home of Dr. B. Joy Jeffries ; the third was for some years the home of Rev. John T. Sargent, the meeting place of the Radical Club, renowned in its day, which came after the Transcendental Club of wider fame. Mrs. Julia Ward Howe also lived some years in this house. On Walmit Street, where Chestnut Street ends, — or, more properly, begins, — was the historian Motley's boyhood home, in a pleasant house "looking down Chestnut Street," now replaced by a more modern dwelling. At 8 Walnut Street was Parkman's earlier house, from which he removed to 50 Chestnut Street. Returning now to the foot of the hill and taking Charles Street north- ward (once beautified by handsome trees, now all gone save one or two worn remnants), we may pass the Charles Street houses once the homes of Dr. Holmes, James T. Fields, and T. B. Aldrich (Nos. 164, 148, and 131, respectively). On the way we should notice at the foot of Mt. Vernon CHARLESBANK 73 Street toward the river the Church of the Advent (Protestant Episcopal), a picturesque structure in the early English style of architecture, with stone tower and steeple. In the tower is a chime of bells. The church organization dates from 1844. The old literary homes of Charles Street are near together toward Cambridge Street. Holmes's life at No. 164 was between 1859 and 1S71, covering the period of his " Professor at the Breakfast Table," " Elsie Venner," and " The Guardian Angel," his war poems and most noteworthy verses of occasion. Aldrich moved into No. 131 from the Pinckney Street house the year that Holmes moved from the street to 296 Beacon Street. He remained here for about ten years and then moved to the Mt. Vernon Street house. This Charles Street house is identified with his "Marjorie Daw," "Prudence Palfrey," " The Queen of Sheba," and "The Stillwater Tragedy," and the beginning of his editor- ship of the Atlantic Monthly. Fields was the earliest of the three to come to Charles Street, and this re- mained his home until his death (188 1). It is still maintained as the town home of Mrs. Annie Fields and Sarah Orne Jewett. The library is one of the richest in authors' manuscripts. The complete manuscript of " The Scarlet Letter " is here. Across Cambridge Street is the Charlesbank, the pleasant park with trees and shrubs and shaded seats, along the riverfront of Charles Street, between the West Boston and Craigie bridges. It is especially designed for the poorer classes living in the neighborhood. Here are gymnasiums for both sexes, and playgrounds and sand courts for children. It is a part of the City Public Parks System. The successive institutions on the opposite side of the street are the County Jail, generally called the Charles Street Jail, the Massachu- setts Charitable Eye and Ear Infirmary (incorporated 1827), and the Massachusetts General Hospital (incorporated 181 1). The latter fronts on Blossom Street, and embraces a group of noble buildings. The 74 BACK BAY oldest, or central building, with porticoes of Ionic columns and shapely dome, was designed by Bulfinch. In the old operating room the first successful operation upon a patient under the influence of ether was performed in October, 1846, by Dr. W. T. G. Morton. This event is commemorated by the Ether Monument, so called, in the Public Garden. At Dr. Morton's grave in Mt. Auburn, Cambridge, is also a monu- ment. On North Grove Street, at one side of the hospital, is the first Harvard Medical School building (now occupied by the Dental School), the scene of the Parkman 7nurder in 1849, — tne killing of Dr. George Parkman by Professor John W. Webster. Both were men of good social and professional standing, and the trial was one of the most celebrated in Boston. Webster \as executed the following year. The only other object of interest in this older part of the West End is the West Church, at the corner of Cambridge and Lynde streets, now the West End Branch of the Public Library. The building dates from 1806. Its predecessor was used for barracks during the Siege, and the steeple was taken down because it had been used in making signals to the Continental camp at Cambridge. The present building was long the pulpit of Charles Lowell, the father of James Russell Lowell, and Cyrus A. Bartol. 5. The Back Bay The Public Garden below the Common, between Beacon, Charles, Boylston, and Arlington streets, is the gateway to the Back Bay District (see Plates I and II), the modern "court end" of Boston. Common- wealth Avenue is its principal boulevard. Boylston Street to Copley Square, and Huntington Avenue beyond, are its southern bounds; Beacon Street and Charles River its northern bounds. Copley Square is its central point. Massachusetts Avenue is its great western cross thoroughfare. To this avenue the streets of the quarter — with the exception of Huntington Avenue, which begins at Copley Square — run parallel to or at right angles with Beacon Street on the Charles River side. The cross streets, beginning with Arlington Street, are named in alphabetical order, a trisyllable alternating with a disyllable word. Broad thoroughfares and imposing architecture characterize this quarter. The streets north of Boylston Street between Arlington Street and Massachusetts Avenue are free from car tracks. Common- wealth Avenue, with its tree-lined parkway, broken here and there by statues, is two hundred feet wide, or two hundred and twenty feet from house to house, between Arlington Street and Massachusetts Avenue. It extends beyond the original limits of the quarter, through the BACK BAY 75 Brighton District to the western boundary of the city at the Newton line. Huntington Avenue, with a middle green occupied by street-car tracks, is one hundred' feet in width, or one hundred and twenty feet from house to house. It extends to the Brookline line. Massachu- setts Avenue comes into the quarter from the Dorchester District, where it begins at Edward Everett Square (so named from the birth- place of Edward Everett, which stood at this point) and, crossing Har- vard Bridge, continues through Cambridge, Arlington, and Lexington. All the territory of this district is " made land " in place of the bay whose name it takes, a beautiful sheet of water making up from Charles River, which at flood time spread out from the present Charles Street by the Common to the " Neck " (the narrow stem of the original penin- Harvard Bridge sula) and Roxbury, and toward the hills of Brookline. The Public Garden was the " Round Marsh," or " the marsh at the bottom of the Common." The filling of the bay was planned in 1852 by a State commission, the Com- monwealth having the right to the flats below the line of riparian ownership. At that time the bay was a great basin made by dams thrown across it for the utili- zation of its water power by mills on its borders. These dams were also used as causeways for communication between Boston and Roxbury and the western suburbs. They were the " Mill Dam,'- now included in lower Beacon Street ; the " Cross Dam," extending from the Roxbury side to the Mill Dam ; and the cause- way, corresponding in part with the present Brookline Avenue (earlier the Punch Bowl Road), which extends from the junction of Beacon Street and Common- wealth Avenue southwest to the Brookline line. The filling was practically begun in 1857 and finished in 1886. It was done by the Commonwealth and the Boston Water Power Company. The Commonwealth owned 108.44 acres of the territory. On its sales of the land remaining after large gifts to institutions, and reservations for the city of Boston, and for streets and passageways, it made a net profit of upward of four million dollars. The avails of the sale were applied to educational purposes and to the endowment of several of the sinking funds of the State. 7 6 PUBLIC GARDEN The Public Garden is the gem of the city parks, essentially a flower garden, with rich verdure, a dainty foil to the plainer Common. The Bridge, Public Garden artificial pond in the middle of the inclosure is so irregularly shaped as to appear extensive, although its actual area is only three and three quarters acres. The iron bridge which carries the main path over the pond has been endowed by the local wits with the title of the " Bridge of Size," from its ponderous piers. The statues and monuments here are: On the Beacon Street side: Statue of Edward Everett, of bronze, by William W. Story. Erected in 1867. The cost met by a popular subscription. The Ether Momiment, commemorating the discovery of anaesthetics, of granite and red marble, by J. Q. A. Ward. Erected in 1868. The ideal figures surmounting the shaft illustrate the story of the Good Samaritan ; the marble bas-reliefs represent (1) a surgical operation in a civic hospital, the patient being under the influence of ether, (2) the angel of mercy descending to re- lieve suffering humanity, (3) the interior of a field hospital, showing a wounded soldier in the hands of the surgeon, (4) an allegory of the triumph of science. This monu- ment was a gift to the city by Thomas Lee. Channing Statue PUBLIC GARDEN 77 Entrance to Subway, Public Garden On the Boylston Street side : Statue of Charles Sumner, of bronze, by Thomas Ball. Erected in 1878. This was provided for by popular subscription. Statue of Colonel Thomas Cass (commander of the Ninth Regiment, Massachusetts Volunteers, in the Civil War ; killed at Malvern Hill, Va., July 1, 1862), of bronze, by Richard E. Brooks. Erected in 1889. A gift to the city by the Society of the Ninth Regiment. On the Arlington Street side : Statue of William Ellery Channing (facing the Arlington Street Church on the opposite side of the street, the successor of the Federal Street Church, which was the pulpit of Channing), of bronze, by Herbert Adams. The carved canopy, of gran- ite and marble, designed by Vincent C. Griffith, architect. Erected in 1903. A gift to the city by John Foster. On the marble columns of the can- opy and on the marble stone at the back of the monument are inscriptions. The equestrian statue of Washington (in the main path, facing the Arlington Street gate), of bronze, by Thomas Ball. Erected in 1869. Provided for by popular subscription. The marble Venus in the fountain near by was the first work of art placed in the Garden. The Arlington Street Church (Uni- tarian), which dignifies the corner of Arlington and Boylston streets, was the first church built in this quarter ( 1 860-1 861). Its exterior design is broadly after old London Wren churches. The steeple was the first in Boston to be constructed entirely of stone. In its tower is a chime of sixteen bells. The church organization dates from 1727. f Washington Statue, Public Garden 78 COMMONWEALTH AVENUE On the corner of Arlington Street and Newbury Street (the next street north opening from Arlington Street) is the house of the New Church Union, the headquarters of the New Jerusalem Church. Here are established the New Church libraries and the business departments of the Union, which is the business and financial representative of the Massachusetts Association of the New Jerusalem Church. Next to this building, on Newbury Street (No. 2), is the house of the St. Botolph Club, the representative literary and professional club of the city, taking its name from St. Botolph in old Boston, England (organized in 1880 ; Francis Parkman, the historian, the first president). It possesses a silver-gilt " loving cup " which formerly belonged to the corporation of the English Boston. In its art gallery exhibitions of new work by artists are given during the winter season. The picturesque church nearly opposite the St. Botolph is Emmanuel Church (Protestant Episcopal). It is built of the local Roxbury conglomerate stone. The church organization dates from i860, and this edifice was erected two years later. Commonwealth Avenue opens from the middle of Arlington Street, its parkway being directly opposite the main path of the Public Garden, which terminates at the Arlington Street gate. A lovely vista opens through the long park of beautiful trees. The succession of statues down the long walk are : Alexander Hamilton, of granite, by Dr. William Rimmer. Erected in 1865. A gift to the city by Thomas Lee, the same who gave the Ether Monument in the Public Garden. This was the first statue in the country to be cut from granite. The inscription characterizes Hamilton as "orator, writer, soldier, jurist, financier. Although his particular province was the treasury, his genius pervaded the whole administration of Washington." General John Glover of Marblehead, " a soldier of the Revolution," of bronze, by Martin Milmore. Erected in 1875. A gift to the city by Benjamin T. Read. The inscription details the conspicuous features of Glover's military service with his marine regiment of Mar- blehead men, notably his leadership in transporting the army across the river from Brooklyn to New York and across the Delaware in 1776. William Lloyd Garrison, a sitting figure, of bronze, by Olin L. Warner. Erected in 1886. The fund for this statue was raised by popular subscription. Beneath the chair in which the figure is seated lies a representation of a volume of the Liberator. The inscriptions are quotations of the motto of the Liberator : " Our Country is the World — Our Countrymen are Mankind " ; and the declaration in COMMONWEALTH AVENUE 79 Garrison's salutatory in his paper : "lam in earnest — I will not equivo- cate — I will not excuse — I will not retreat a single inch — and I will be heard." Leif Ericson, the Norse discoverer, of the year iooo; an ideal figure, of bronze, by Anne Whitney. Erected in 1886. The pedestal dis- plays reliefs, one representing a Norse scene, — a banqueting hall, with Leif returned from his voyages relating his discoveries ; the other the Norse landing on American shores. This statue is across Massa- chusetts Avenue where the parkway ends. On Berkeley Street, at the corner of Marlborough Street, a block north of Commonwealth Avenue, is the beautiful stone edifice, with corner tower and steeple, of the First Church of Boston (Unitarian), fifth in succession from the rude little fabric of 1632 on the present State Street (see p. 5). It was erected in 1868, succeeding the meetinghouse which stood on Chauncy Place (now Street), off Summer Street, in the business quarter, for sixty years. The Rev. William Emerson, father of Ralph Waldo Emerson, was the minister of the church (his service being from 1 791 to 181 1 ) when that meetinghouse was built in 1808. On Berkeley Street, at the corner of Marlborough Street, south of the avenue, is the Gothic Central Church (Congre- gational Trinitarian), built in 1867. Like the First Church this is constructed of the Roxbury rubble, with sandstone trim- mings. Its fine spire, two hundred and thirty-six feet high, is the tallest in the city. This church (erected in 1867) is the successor of the first meetinghouse of the society, which stood on Winter Street, in the heart of the " down-town " shop- ping quarter, from 1841 to 1865. The only church on Commonwealth Avenue is the notable structure with its Florentine tower, at the western corner of Clarendon Street. This is the First Baptist Church, descendant of the pioneer Baptist meet- inghouse at the North End which the then proscribed sect built in 1679, and which not long after was nailed up by the court officers (see p. 57). This edifice was originally erected (in 1873) by the Brattle Square Church organization (Unitarian), to succeed the historic meetinghouse Leif Ericson Statue 80 COPLEY SQUARE AND ITS SURROUNDINGS in Brattle Square (see p. 17). It was purchased by the Baptists after the dissolution of the Unitarian society and the sale of the church property by auction. The massive square stone tower, rising one hun- dred and seventy-six feet, with frieze of colossal bas-reliefs, gives this structure an especial distinction in the Back Bay architecture. The sculptured figures on the four sides of the frieze represent the four Christian eras, — baptism, communion, marriage, and death ; the statues at the angles typify the angels of the judgment blowing golden trum- pets. These figures were cut by Italian sculptors from designs by Bartholdi after the stones had been set in place. The lower south corner of the avenue and Dartmouth Street is impressively marked by the great marble hotel, the Vendome. Farther down, on the north side, below Exeter Street, is the Algonquin Club- house, a light stone building of striking facade, sumptuously designed and arranged for the club's uses. The Algonquin (organized in 1885) is the representative business club of the city, composed largely of active men of affairs. In near neighborhood — on Beacon Street, nearly opposite the head of Exeter Street — is the University Club- house. It is a rich dwelling refashioned for club uses. It is especially favored by position with an outlook at the rear over the river. This club (organized in 1892), composed of college graduates resident in Boston and vicinity, is one of the largest of its class in the country. Below Exeter Street, also on the favored water side of Beacon Street, is the Holmes house (No. 296), the last town house of Dr. Holmes, iden- tified with the mellow productions of his latter years and old age, — as " The Poet at the Breakfast Table," " Over the Teacups," the grave and gay poems, " The Iron Gate," and " The Broomstick Train " on the advent of the trolley car. Farther down, at No. 392, is the home of James Ford Rhodes, the historian of the United States "from the compromise of 1850." Above Exeter Street, on the south side of Beacon Street (No. 241), is the latter-day home of Julia Ward Howe. Copley Square and its Surroundings. Copley Square is at the junction of Boylston Street, Huntington Avenue, Trinity Place, St. James Ave- nue, and Dartmouth Street. The cross streets, Berkeley and Clarendon, are near its eastern boundary; the thoroughfare of Dartmouth Street makes its western bound. About the square and in its immediate neigh- borhood are grouped some of the most important institutions of the city, with noble buildings, beautiful churches, and attractive hotels. Bounding the square are : the Public Library, occupying the entire west side; the Museum of Fine Arts, the Westminster Chambers, and Trinity Church on the south side ; the Second Church and the former Girls' 1 Latin School, north side ; and the New South Church marking PUBLIC LIBRARY 81 the northwest corner. On Boylston Street east of the square, beginning at Berkeley Street, are : on the north side, the Natural History Museum and the main buildings of the Massachusetts Ijistitttte of Technology ; on the south side, the Young Merfs Christian Association building and the Hotel Brunswick. On Boylston Street west of the square is the chief Boston University building, next the Public Library and extend- ing to Exeter Street. On the lower corner of Exeter Street is the Hotel Lenox. Nearly opposite, on Exeter Street, is the Athletic Clubhouse, one of the largest of its class in the country. On Dartmouth Street, north, next beyond the New Old South Church, is the Boston Art Club- house, with entrance on Newbury Street. Opposite the clubhouse, on Copley Square and Vicinity Dartmouth Street, is the Hotel Victoria. On Huntington Avenue, just outside the square, are the Hotel Nottingham, the Hotel Oxford, and the Copley Square Hotel. A short walk below, on Huntington Avenue, is the great building of the Massachusetts Charitable Mechanic Association, with its fine halls. From the square Trinity Place leads directly to the Trinity Place station of the New York Central Railroad for outbound trains, and Dartmouth Street leads to the Back Bay station of the New York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad. From Huntington Avenue, at the corner of Irvington Street, a block below the square, is the passage to the Huntington Avenue station of the New York Central for inward- bound trains. The Public Library building is one of the notable architectural monu- ments of its day. It is built of granite of a peculiar pinkish white color, 82 PUBLIC LIBRARY en- the facade classic in design. Its dimensions are two hundred and twenty -five feet long by two hundred and twenty-seven deep, and its height from the sidewalk to the top of the cornice is seventy feet. It is quadrangular in shape, surrounding a court, and covers with its broad entrance platform, exclusive of the court, an acre and a half of ground. The elegance of its proportions and the purity of its style are remarked as the chief architectural merits of the work. The main entrance is topped with a round arch, over which appears a medallion of the seal of the library by Augustus St. Gaudens. Sculptures by St. Gaudens are ultimately to be placed on the stone blocks at either end of the platform by the entrance doors. The vestibule, the entrance hall with high vaulted ceiling, and the noble marble stair- case rising beyond are impressive features of the first floor. In the ves- tibule is the bronze statue of Sir Harry Vane, by Frederick MacMonnies. The artistically embel- lished bronze doors, ad- mitting to the entrance hall, were designed by Daniel C. French. In the ceiling of this hall are wrought names of men identified with Boston, eminent in letters, art, science, law, and public work. The great marble lions on either side of the first landing of the staircase are by Louis St. Gaudens. They were memorial gifts of the Second and Twentieth Regiments, Massachusetts Volunteers, in the Civil War. The decorations on the walls of the stairway and the corridor above are by Puvis de Chavannes. They represent, in separate panels, Philosophy, Astronomy, History, Chemistry, Physics, Pastoral Poetry, Dramatic Poetry, Epic Poetry, and finally, in one symbolic composition, " The Muses welcoming the Genius of Enlightenment." The decorations of the Delivery Room, which opens from this corridor, are by Edwin A. Abbey, and illustrate the legend of the Holy Grail. The walls of the corridor of the upper floor, familiarly known as the " Sargent Hall," have in part the decora- tions by John S. Sargent which in their completed form will represent the triumph of religion. Only the panels of the east and west walls have yet been finished. The subject of the first of these is the confused struggle in the Jewish nation between monotheism and polytheism. Public Library PUBLIC LIBRARY 83 That of the second is the dogma of the Redemption. The ceiling of the second Children's Room, on the principal floor, carries a painting by John Elliott representing the " Triumph of Time " ; twelve female figures symbolize the hours, and one male figure, Time. The Christian centuries are typified by twenty horses arranged in rows of four each. This decoration was given to the Library by citizens of Boston. The decorations of the lobby leading to the Children's Room from the main corridor are by Joseph Lindon Smith, and were given by Arthur A. Carey, a citizen of Boston. The lobby at the opposite end of the corridor leading to the Delivery Room was decorated by Elmer E. Garnsey. Besides its mural decora- tions the Library is rich in memorial busts and other art objects. The principal reading room, known as Bates Hall (in honor of Joshua Bates, who gave the Library at its beginning, in 1852, a fund of fifty thousand dollars, besides an equiva- lent amount in books), is in its dimen- sions and architectural features the most important apartment in the build- ing. It is two hundred and eighteen feet long, forty-two and one half feet wide, and fifty feet high to the crown of the arches. The barrel-arched ceil- ing is deeply paneled and ornamented with rosettes. In this hall are collec- tions of reference books and works in general literature, accessible to the public on open shelves. Readers are also served at the tables by runners, who bring from the stacks such vol- umes as are requested for hall use. The Children's Rooms on this floor are entirely devoted to the needs of young readers. Special attendants aid the children in the selection of books, and instruct them in the use of the library. Nine thousand volumes are placed on open shelves here, mainly the better class of "juveniles," boys' and girls' fiction, and books of travel and adventure written for the young. Large tables are provided at which the children may read by themselves. The Children's Reference Room is a study room, and is equipped with books intended to be used by young students. Children come here to write composi- tions, to look up topics connected with their school work, and to pre- pare their daily lessons. A collection of the text-books used in the Boston public schools is an important feature of this room, and the Bates Hall, Public Library 84 PUBLIC LIBRARY books contained in it are alike helpful to those who have left school and to teachers from other places. General and special reference books are also shelved here, duplicating in some cases those kept in Bates Hall for older readers ; and there is a section of books on pedagogy and kindergarten methods for teachers. In connection with the work for children, the schools included among the agencies of the Library (sixty-six public and six parochial schools) must be mentioned. These are supplied with books either for topical reference or mis- cellaneous reading, which are usually delivered by the Library wagon and may be changed frequently. Each set of books is made up for the occasion, and the teachers' selection is followed as far as possible. The total number of volumes sent to the schools from the Central Library and Branches in 1907 was 19,555. Each large Branch library, also, regularly supplies certain neighboring schools. Applications for Library cards are taken by Library employees in all the schools once a year. On the floor below are the Patent Room, with the best collection of publications relating to patents to be found in the country, except that at Washington ; the Periodical Room, with a complete file of current periodicals and magazines ; and the Newspaper Room, in which over three hundred newspapers from all parts of the world are regularly received and placed on the reading files. The Department of DocU' ments and Statistics is in the rear part of the building, approached through the arcade, across the courtyard from the main-entrance cor- ridor. It contains a large and constantly increasing collection of sta- tistical works, official publications, and books relating to economic subjects; also many rare and valuable historical manuscripts and broadsides. On the third floor are the Special Libraries, comprising the Fine Arts Department, the Allett A. Brown Library of Music, and the Barton, Bar- low, Prince, Lavis, Bowditch, and Ticknor collections. The collections shelved on this floor are mainly intended for reference, and ample accom- modation is provided for the use of students and for research work. The Brown Library contains more than eight thousand volumes relating to music ; the Barton Collection (fourteen thousand volumes) is espe- cially rich in Shakespeariana, unequaled in the world, outside of two or three great English libraries ; and the Ticknor Library includes nearly seven thousand volumes of Spanish literature. These and the other collections designated by the names of the donors were presented to the Library. All of them contain many rare and exceedingly valuable books. The Fine Arts Department contains, besides a carefully selected collection of books relating to architecture, painting, and the allied arts, more than fifteen thousand photographs from all over the world, besides MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS 85 six thousand process pictures for the use of schools. Exhibitions are held regularly in a room especially devoted to this purpose, and collec- tions of prints are sent to the schools and to the branch libraries and deposit stations. On the north side of the building, opening from Boylston Street, a large Lecture Hall is provided, in which lectures on educational or literary subjects are given during the winter season. The Boston Public Library system consists of the Central Library (this Copley Square building) ; eleven Branch Libraries, in different parts of the city, each having permanent collections of books ; and seventeen delivery stations (of which all are reading rooms, formerly part service stations and shop stations). Regular deposits of books are placed in one hundred and thirty-nine schools and insti- tutions, and forty-six fire stations. In all, therefore, there are two hundred and thirteen agencies for supplying books to the public. Regular daily wagon- delivery service is maintained between the Central Library and the outlying agencies. The administration of the Library is controlled by a board of five trustees appointed by the mayor, a librarian and assistant librarian, and, in- cluding chiefs of departments, a staff of two hundred and ninety employees for the regular service, and ninety-four for the Sunday and evening service. The Central Library is open daily from 9 A.M. to 10 p.m. (on Sunday from 2 p.m.) in the winter, closing one hour earlier in the summer, and the hours at the branches approximate this schedule, with some variation during the period from June to September. The Library comprises a collection of nearly nine hundred thousand volumes. About thirty thousand are annually added. It is a circulating library free to every resident of Boston, and the use of the books within the Library is open to all, whether resident of the city or not. It is not only the largest circulating and reference library in the United States, but it undertakes a greater variety of service than is rendered by the noted libraries of the world. By means of an interlibrary loan system it is serving scholarship throughout the country, its recorded applications for books showing a wide range of towns and cities and educational institutions. The annual circulation for home use is more than one million five hundred thousand volumes, including the circulation from the branches. Besides this there is an extensive use of books in the Library itself of which no statistical record is kept. The Library maintains its own printing department and bindery. It issues a Monthly Bulletin of new accessions, and from time to time special bibliographies and other publications of importance. The annual appropriation made by the city for the maintenance of the institution is about $$300,000. It also enjoys the income from about $ 385,000 of invested trust funds. Horace G. Wadlin is the present librarian. The architects of the Central Library were McKim, Mead & White. Its total cost, including the land, was #2,500,000. It was opened to the public in 1895. The Museum of Fine Arts (incorporated 1870, opened 1876), built of brick with terra-cotta ornament, is in interesting contrast with the 86 MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS Public Library. It forms a square about a central court. The insti- tution ranks with the more important art museums of the world. Among the objects in the entrance hall are works of earlier American sculptors and two good paintings by Boucher. The four rooms on the left of the entrance contain a collection of objects of classical art, one of the most considerable now existing. The first room, devoted to sculpture, has in the center the portrait head of a Roman ; on the left, youthful Hermes ; on the opposite wall, Torso of a Goddess. (A colossal Cybele and a Torso of Aphrodite are in the southern cor- ridor.) The room beyond is devoted to the Francis Bartlett collection, the largest gift of works of art ever received by the Museum, including a head of Aphrodite of delicate beauty, the torso of a mounted Amazon, a superb early Greek bronze basin, and other marbles, vases, and bronzes. The room on the court con- tains terra cottas, molds for making pot- tery (ist century B.C.) from Arezzo, and an- cient glass. The two well-carved limestone sarcophagi are Etruscan (3d century B.C. and later). The case at the end of the room, devoted to modern forgeries, well repays study. In the room beyond are objects of metal, — coins, jewelry, and gems, — including a bronze bust of Arsinoe(?) and the famous Marlborough cameo. The collection of vases in the hall entered from the southern corridor to the left is one of the fullest in the world. The rooms on the court to the right of the entrance hall are devoted to Egyptian art, including the valuable collection of mummies, stelae, jars, amulets, scarabs, etc., given by C. Granville Way in 1872. Beyond are architectural fragments and other objects. Many of the recent acquisi- tions in this department are stored for lack of exhibition space. The first door on the right of the entrance hall leads to the collection of casts, beginning with Egypt and continuing in chronological sequence through the art of Greece and Rome. The room entered from the hall of Greek vases contains casts of sculpture of the Italian Renaissance. Many casts of the later classical and Renaissance periods are now stored. On the second floor, in the stairway hall, are tapestries and exam- ples of modern sculpture, among them " Ceres " and " The Flight of Museum of Fine Arts MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS 86 A Love," by Rodin. Opening to the right from the stairway are the gal- leries of pictures ; those of the prints and water colors are in the adjoining rooms on the court. The. first gallery contains on the left specimens of Van Dyck, Rembrandt, " Danae and the Shower of Gold " (signed and dated 1652), "An Old Man"; Frans Hals, Teniers the younger, and De Hoogh : at the end, Van der Weyden, " St. Luke drawing the Portrait of the Madonna"; Crivelli, " Pieta " (signed and dated 1485); Wohlgemuth, "Death of the Virgin": on the right-hand wall, Paul Veronese, " Justice," and Valasquez, " Don Baltasar Carlos and his Dwarf." The Allston Room contains examples of the early American painters, including the well-known Athenaeum heads of Washington and Martha Washington, by Gilbert Stuart, portraits of other notable Americans, and several large canvases by Copley. In the third gallery are works of English artists, including Turner, " The Slave Ship," and specimens of Wilson, Constable, Sir Thomas Law- rence, and others ; also a portrait by Goya, the " Chapeau Blanc," by Greuze. In the fourth and fifth galleries are works by French and American artists, including several examples of Degas, Gerome, " L'fimi- nence Grise," Delacroix, "Pieta" and "Lion Hunt"; also examples of Corot, Diaz, Dupre, Brush, Thayer, Homer, La Farge, and others. Beyond, in the corridor, is a large painting of " Automedon and the Horses of Achilles," by Regnault. The print rooms are devoted to temporary exhibitions of selections from the Museum collection, and of loans. In the water-color room are examples of French, English, and American artists, among them W. Blake, illustrations of Comus and of Paradise Lost, and Burne-Jones, "Le chant d'amour." Returning to the stairway hall, the gallery beyond is that of textiles. On the walls are tapestries and eight decorative panels in wood (18th century, French) ; in the center cases Japanese and Chinese dresses. The room beyond is devoted to ceramics. In case 46 is an exceptional collection of jade and a Japanese crystal ball said to be the largest in existence. Adjoining the textile gallery is the wood-carving room, with the Buffum collection of amber, — antique, renaissance, and modern. The Lawrence room adjoining is decorated with old paneling taken from a room of like dimensions. The clock near the doorway was in the house of John Hancock when governor of Massachusetts in 1780. The metal room, next, contains among other objects fine Chinese bronzes (case 11). The coin room adjacent contains objects in the precious metals, including silverware by Paul Revere, and a watch, a gift to Queen Charlotte on her marriage to George III. The collec- tion of Chinese and Japanese art, occupying the next room and the cor- ridor (many other objects being stored for want of exhibition space), is 86b museum of fine arts the largest and finest in the world. In the Japanese room are speci- mens of metal work, ivory and wood carving, costumes, and lacquer, the latter being especially noteworthy. The Morse collection of Japanese pot- tery, in transverse cases in the corridor beyond, gives a more complete representation of the fictile art of Japan than all other existing collec- tions combined. The architectural and decorative carvings in wood along the corridor are new to occidental eyes, and of marked interest and beauty. In the center of the corridor are Chinese and Thibetan statues, and at the end a statue of Niorai (12th century), a remarkable monument of an age of great artistic elevation. The collection of prints (a selection shown) may be seen on application to the curator. In the basement of the building is the library and photograph collection (opan to all visitors), which includes books and photographs chosen with reference to the needs of special students of art and its history (10,000 books and pam- phlets and about 17,000 photographs). The Museum School gives instruction in drawing and painting, in modeling and design, with supplementary courses in artistic anatomy and perspective. The first suggestion of a public establishment in Boston to be devoted wholly to the fine arts was the result of a wish to make more accessible to the public several collections of works of art already existing in the Athenaeum, at Harvard College, and at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. The land now occu- pied by the Museum building was the gift of the city, but apart from this public gift, the Museum has been wholly dependent upon private liberality for its crea- tion and maintenance. The erection of a new building upon a lot of twelve acres of land on Huntington Avenue and the Fenway, bought in 1899, is actively in progress. The Museum is managed by a board of thirty trustees, of whom three are appointed by Harvard College, three by the Boston Athenaeum, and three by the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. There are five ex-officio members, of whom three, including the mayor, represent the city of Boston. The remainder of the board are those first named in the act of incorporation and those chosen by the board to fill vacancies in its number. The president of the corporation is Gardiner M. Lane; director of the Museum, Arthur Fairbanks. The Museum is open free on Saturdays, from 9 to 5 ; free on Sundays, from 12 to 5 ; and free on public holidays. On other days the entrance fee is twenty-five cents. Trinity Church (Protestant Episcopal) is one of the richest examples of ecclesiastical architecture in the city. It was the crowning work of the architect H. H. Richardson and is called his masterpiece. Its style as defined by him is the French Romanesque, as freely rendered in the pyramidal-towered churches of Auvergne, the central tower pre- dominating. It is constructed of yellowish granite, with brown freestone trimmings. The elaborate decorative work of the interior is by John La Farge. The chapel, with open outside stairway, is connected with the church by the open cloister, and here are placed stones from the old St. Botolph Church in Boston, England, presented by the authorities TRINITY CHURCH 37 of that church. Trinity Church was consecrated in 1877. Its prede- cessor was destroyed in the fire of 1872. That stood on Summer Street at the corner of Hawley Street, a Gothic structure with massive stone walls and tower. Phillips Brooks was rector of Trinity from 1869 to 1 89 1, when he was made Bishop of Massachusetts. The Phillips Brooks house is the rectory of the church, near by, on the northeast corner of Clarendon and New- bury streets. Trinity, founded in 1 7 2 8 ' l S Trinity Church the third Episcopal church established in Boston. The New Old South Church, so called to distinguish it from its still existing predecessor, the Old South Meetinghouse (Congregational Trinitarian), is also noteworthy for rich- ness of design and ornamentation. It is in the North Italian Gothic style, and constructed mainly of the local Rox- bury stone. The great tower terminat- ing in a pyramidal spire, composed of combinations of colored stones, rises two hundred and forty-eight feet. Delicate carvings ornament the facade. In the beautiful arcade between the tower and the south transept are inscribed tablets. One bears this inscription : " Old South Church. Preserved and blessed of God for more than two hundred years while worshiping on its original site, corner of Washington and Milk streets, whence it was removed to this New Old South Church 8S MASSACHUSETTS INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY building in 1875, am id constant proofs of his guidance and loving favor. Qui transtulit sustinet." Cummings & Sears were the architects of this church. The Second Church (Unitarian), descendant of the historic Old North Church of North Square, founded in 1649, * s built in large part from the stones of the previous meetinghouse in Bedford Street, now in the business quarter, which was taken down in 1872. It is a plain Gothic exterior, beautified by a complete mantle of ivy. The interior is broad and lofty, showing the open-timbered roof. Interesting memo- rials of former pastors of distinction are here. In the transept at the right of the pulpit is a bust of Ralph Waldo y Emerson (minister in -~-2>-i_ ..-■ ■ "*°~~ "~" ~ Natural History Museum and Technology Buildings 1829-1832) by Sidney H. Morse. On the other side of the transept is a portrait of John Lathrop, the patriot minister of the Revolutionary period. In front of the pulpit is Cotton Mather's pulpit chair. The two main buildings of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (founded by Professor William B. Rogers as a school of applied science, and chartered in 1861) occupy, together with the Natural History Museum, the entire square bounded by Boylston, Berkeley, Newbury, and Clarendon streets. They are the Rogers Building, dignified in design, with high portal approached by a noble flight of broad stone steps, and the severely plain Walker Building. In the former are the administrative offices of the institution and the departments of mining, mathematics, drawing, history, economics, and English ; in the latter, the departments of physics and chemistry. Other buildings, the Henry L. Pierce and Engineering buildings, in which are the departments of civil and mechanical engineering, architecture, naval architecture, biol- ogy, and geology, are in Trinity Place ; the Workshops are in Garrison Street, off Huntington Avenue ; and the Gymnasium is on Exeter NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM 89 Street. The several buildings comprise, in addition to drawing, recita- tion, and lecture rooms, eight laboratories or groups of laboratories. In the Rogers Building is Huntington Hall, in which the Society of Arts, organized with the institute for the encouragement of practical applica- tions of the sciences, has its meetings. Here, also, are given the free lecture courses of the Lowell Institute (founded in 1839 by the will of John Lowell, Jr.). The Lowell School of Practical Design, established by the trustees of the Lowell Institute (1872) for the promotion of industrial art in the United States, is maintained by the Institute of Technology in its workshops. In the rear of the main buildings, on Newbury Street, is the Technology Clubhouse. The Natural History Museum, sedate and elegant in style and finish, fronts on Berkeley Street. It is the building of the Boston Society of Natural History, founded in 183 1. It was erected in 1864. Over the entrance door is carved the society's seal, which bears the head of Cuvier. On the keystones of the windows are carved heads of animals, and a sculptured eagle surmounts the pediment. The collections in the halls and galleries of this museum are interesting and valuable, and are admirably arranged. Upon entering, in the first hall are seen the intro- ductory synoptical collection and sundry important geological speci- mens. From the ceiling of the main hall is suspended the large skeleton of a whale. In the library, which contains from thirty to forty thousand volumes, much consulted by students, are fine mineral- ogical, geological, and botanical collections. On the second floor is a hall filled with stuffed animals, geological, physiological, and fossil cases, and skeletons of elephants and extinct fauna. Conspicuous is the skele- ton of a gorilla. In the galleries here are New England tree and shrub and other botanical specimens ; also conchological collections. On the third and fourth floors are general ornithological and ethnological collections, with the magnificent Lafresnaye Collection of birds, nests, and eggs. Lecture halls and rooms are in the building, in which instruc- tion is given to classes of students. The museum is open free on Wed- nesdays and Saturdays, and on Sunday afternoons. Other days, entrance fee, twenty-five cents. Below Copley Square, in the neighborhood of Huntington Avenue, are other institutions of note. On Exeter Street, two blocks north, is the Massachusetts Normal Art School (established by the State in 1873), and on opposite corners the South Congregational Church, of which Edward Everett Hale is pastor emeritus, and the Boston Spiritual Temple. On St. Botolph Street, reached from Huntington Avenue by Garrison Street, is the Massachusetts College of Pharmacy (chartered 1852). On the same street is Simmons Hall, the dormitory of the Simmons Female College (chartered 1899), established by the will of 9° SYMPHONY HALL Chickering Hall John Simmons, a Boston merchant, to furnish instruction in "such branches of art, science, and industry" as will "best enable women to earn an independent livelihood." The col- lege building is on the Back Bay Fens (see p. in). Farther down on Huntington Avenue is the Woman's Club- house in the Twentieth Century Building. A few steps from the avenue, on side streets, is the great stone Christian Science Temple, rising to the lofty height of two hundred and twenty feet, topped by a magnificent dome ; and with an auditorium of five thousand sittings. This church has a melodious chime of bells. About the Junction of Huntington and Massachusetts Avenues. In this section are grouped more notable buildings, giving it a special distinc- tion. On the north side of Huntington Avenue, near the junction, is Chickering Hall, with ornamented facade. Next, at the east corner of the two avenues, is Horticultural Hall, the fine building of the Massachusetts Horticultural So- ciety (organized 1829), in which great exhibitions of flow- ers and fruits are held in their sea- sons. On the op- posit e corner is Symphony Hall, successor of the old Music Hall as a " temple of music," where the concerts of the Boston Symphony Orchestra and the oratorios of the Handel and Haydn Society are given. Farther down Huntington Avenue, on the corner of Gainsborough Street, is the building of the New England Conservatory of Music Horticultural Hall MASSACHUSETTS HISTORICAL SOCIETY 9 1 Symphony Hall (established in 1867), the greatest institution of its kind in the country, embracing sixteen separate schools and training students in every branch of the art. Opposite this are the buildings of the New Eng- land Children's Hospital (incorporated in 1869). Still farther out is the Tufts College Medical and Dental School. Through Westland Avenue, north of the junction of Huntington and Massachusetts avenues, we may reach the Fens, or Back Bay Park. At Hemenway Street is the Westerii entrance, with the Memorial Fountain, in commemoration of Ellen C. Johnson, superintendent of the State Reformatory School for Women at Sher- born, who left by her will a fund for the erection of a drinking font for animals at some public place in the city. On the Fenway, near Boylston Street, is the handsome house of the Boston Medical Library (founded in 1874), ornamenting the street. The principal reading room is Holmes Hall, named for Dr. Oliver Wendell Holmes and adorned with mementos of him. His own valuable med- ical library is preserved in the general collection of this library, the fourth in size of the medical libraries of the country. There is here the Storer collection of medical medals, remark- able in its variety and extent. At the comer of the Fenway and Boylston Street, facing the latter, is the house of the Massachusetts Historical Society (founded in 1791), the oldest historical society in the country, and probably in the world. This distinguished building was designed by Wheelwright & Haven, and was erected by the society in 1897-1899. It contains the society's rare library of forty-three thousand volumes, enriched with historical docu- ments and manuscripts. Over the entrance to the Dowse Library are Westland Ave £Jk 92 THE SOUTH END the crossed swords which used to rest above the library of William H. Prescott, and to which Thackeray alludes in the opening of " The Vir- ginians." The cabinet museum of curios contains numerous interesting objects, among them the wooden Indian which topped the old Province House and the cannon ball which struck the Brattle Square Church during the Siege. The model of the historic meetinghouse is in the upper hall. The museum is open on Wednesday afternoons only, from 2 to 5. The chief function of this society is to publish, and it has issued infinitely more publications than any other historical society in this country, and more than all the other societies combined, the number exceeding one hundred. Charles Francis Adams is the pres- ent president of the society, and Dr. Samuel A. Green has long been 'llMUfUllllBi tne librarian. The American Academy of Arts and Sciences (founded in 1780) is also established in this building. In the Fens, near by, is the monument to John Boyle O'Reilly, the Irish poet, editor, and athlete. We may pass along the Fens north- ward by a circling course to Charlesgate, and finish our tour in the newer residential part of this quarter, with its broad streets and fine John Boyle O'Reilly dwellings, locally termed the "New Back Bay." Monument Charlesgate is the passage through which Muddy River empties into the Charles River. The street ways on either side are called Charlesgate East and Charles- gate West. Bay State Road, making off from Charlesgate W T est to the riverside, is especially noticeable for its display of domestic architecture. On Charlesgate East and Commonwealth Avenue is the sumptuous Hotel Somerset. 6. The South End The South End is now a faded quarter. Like the Back Bay it is composed largely of " made land." It was developed from the narrow neck connecting the old town with Roxbury, and was planned and built up on a generous scale to become the permanent fashionable part of the city. Such favor it was enjoying when the lavish development of the Back Bay began, and fashion was not long in turning from it and moving westward. With all its air of having-seen-better-days, however, this quarter still has attractions. Its streets are broad, some are shaded with fine trees ; numerous small parks are scattered through it ; many of the houses are yet substantial dwellings, with a look of roominess within; BOSTON CITY HOSPITAL 93 and various important institutions are established within its borders. The latter most interest the visitor. Among the most noteworthy of these institutions are the Public Latin and English High Schools, on Warren Avenue, Dartmouth and Mont- gomery streets ; the Girls' High School, West Newton Street ; the Boston College (Roman Catholic, founded in i860), Harrison Avenue (No. 76T), near East Newton Street ; the great Boston City Hospital, with its twenty- six buildings (a group of nineteen constituting the City Hospital proper, and a group of seven, in the South Department, for infectious diseases), occupying lands bounded by Harrison Avenue, East Concord Street, Albany Street, and Massachusetts Avenue ; and the group of buildings of the Massachusetts Homeopathic Hospital, with the School of Medi- cine (connected with Boston University), on East Concord Street and Harrison Avenue. Of the churches of the quarter the stone Cathedral of the Holy Cross (Roman Catho- lic), on Washington Street, at the corner of Maiden Street, is the greatest. It is the largest Catholic church in New England, and in some respects the finest. It is in the early English Gothic style. The interior is richly designed and embellished. The arch of the front vestibule is con- structed of bricks from the ruins of the Ursuline Convent on Mount Benedict (now leveled) in Somerville, which was burned by a mob on the night of August 11, 1S34. In the front yard of the edifice is the bronze statue of Columbus, by Alois Buyens (a replica of the San Domingo monument), erected in 1892. In the grounds at the rear, on the corner of Union Park Street and Harrison Avenue, is the arch- bishop's house, in which are the chief offices of the archdiocese. Another South End Catholic church of note is the Church of the Immaculate Conception, on Harrison Avenue and East Concord Street (by the side of Boston College). The interior of this church is also rich in ornamentation. Of the older Protestant churches several have become " institutional churches," with numerous helpful activities. Such are the Berkeley A Typical Children's Playground 94 EAST BOSTON Temple, on Berkeley near Tremont Street, in association with the Union Church on Columbus Avenue and West Newton Street ; the Shawmut Church, on Tremont Street ; and the Warren Avenue Baptist Church, on Warren Avenue and West Canton Street. The Denison House (College Settlement) is at 93 Tyler Street, and the South End House at 20 Union Park Street. Among the churches still retaining the old parish methods are the Second Universalist Church, on Columbus Avenue ; the First Presbyterian Church, on Columbus Avenue ; the Clarendon Street Bap- tist Church, at the junction of Clarendon and Tremont streets; and the Tremont Street Methodist Church, on the corner of Tremont and Con- cord streets. Washington and Tremont streets and Shawmut and Columbus ave- nues are the great thoroughfares generally north and south through this quarter. Columbus Avenue opens at Park Square (from Boylston Street opposite the Common). In the square is the Emancipation Group, com- memorating the emancipation of the slaves by President Lincoln, an interesting piece of statuary by Thomas Ball. It was a gift to the city by Moses Kimball, long the owner of the old Boston Museum, and was erected in 1879. 7. The Outlying Districts East Boston on its islands is a place of steamship docks and of great manufactories. In the days of wooden ships it was a center of ship- yards, whence fine craft were launched. Here were built splendid clipper ships for the California service in the gold-digging days. Now Castle Island, Marine Park its attractions for the visitor are slight, although several of its hill streets are pleasant, and wide harbor views open from various points. Belmont Square, on Camp Hill, marks the site of the fort erected in the Revolu- tionary period, and perhaps also the site of the fortified house of Samuel Maverick, the earliest white settler, in 1630. Wood Island Park, of the Metropolitan Parks System, lies on the harbor or south side of the main island. MARINE PARK 95 South Boston has also become a great industrial center and a place of shipping docks. Its points of popular interest to-day consist of the remnant of Dorchester Heights, — Telegraph Hill, — upon which is the monument " perpetuating the erection of American fortifications that forced the British to evacuate Boston, March 17, 1776"; the Perkins Institu- tion for the Blind, the benefi- cent institution founded by Dr. Samuel G. Howe in 1S29 ; and the beautiful water-front esplanade, the Marine Park, of the Boston Public Parks System. These are all at the east end of the district locally known as "The Point"; South Boston cars marked " City Point " reach them all. In the Marine Park is the admirable statue of Farragut, in bronze, by H. H. Kitson Point is a favorite yachting station, and several yacht clubhouses are situated here. In the lower part of the district the Lawrence school- house on West Third Street marks the site of Nook Hill, the historic interest of which is disclosed in the inscription on a tablet here. The Roxbury District also has interesting landmarks of the Revolu- tion. These are the Roxbury forts, near Highland Street, in the neigh- — - .-,-—. borhood of Eliot Square, with its century - * J old meetinghouse of the "First Religious Society in Roxbury" (dating from 1632), on the site of the first rude structure in which John Eliot preached for more than forty years. Roxbury Upper Fort is marked by the lofty ornate white water pipe, on the hill of Highland Park, between Beach Glen and Fort avenues. The lines of the fort are indicated, and it is fittingly marked by a tablet. The site of the Lower Fort, a short distance northward, is pointed out in the yard of a dwelling on Highland Street. These forts, built by General Harry Knox, under the direction of Gen- eral Thomas, crowned the Roxbury lines of investment during the Siege of Boston. Highland Street, which leads from Eliot Square, is most Head House, Marine Park This was erected in 1893. The Tablet at "Nook Hill 9 6 ROXBURY DISTRICT interesting as the home of Edward Everett Hale, in a broad, roomy, old- time house (No. 39). On this street also was " Rockledge," the home of William Lloyd Garrison through his later years. On Warren Street, not far from the Dudley Street terminal of the elevated railway, is the site of the birthplace of General Joseph Warren, now covered by a stone house built in 1846 by Dr. John Collins Warren, a tablet on its face informing us, "as a permanent memorial of the spot." Near by, on Kearsarge Avenue, was the home of Rear Admiral John A. Winslow of the Kearsarge which destroyed the Alabama in the Civil War. Here also is the Roxbury Latin School, only ten years the junior of the Boston Latin School, having been established in 1645. Of this school Warren was a master when he was but nine- teen years old. Near the old Boston line, at the corner of Washington and Eustis streets, is the ancient burying ground in which are the tombs of John Eliot and of the Dudleys, — Gov- ernor Thomas Dudley (died 1653), Governor Joseph Dudley (1720), Chief Justice Dudley (1752), and Colonel William Dudley (1743). In the western part of this district is Franklin Park, the largest single park in the Boston City Parks System. The West Roxbury District contains memorials of Theodore Parker, and embraces " Brook Farm," the place of the experiment in socialism by the Brook Farm Community of literary folk in 1841-1847, and the scene of Hawthorne's " Blithedale Romance." The old First Parish meetinghouse with its Wren tower, locally known as the Theodore Parker Church from Parker's nine years' ministry here, is still standing, though unused and dismantled. It is on Centre Street, close by the Belle vue station of the railroad (Dedham Branch). Electric cars from Forest Hills pass its neighborhood. In front of its successor, a little farther up Centre Street, is a fine bronze statue of Parker. Farther along this main street, at the corner of Cottage Avenue, Parker's resi- dence also remains, — now occupied as the parish house of a neighboring r M ' 1^11 -.■-■- : ■ ■ ■ . . . . ' - %f' >: "V" -■■ ^ ^l. 'H-^-- " jsa't-^ - •■ ■ ■".'-■ ^^^^^ppBBf"! K^a^^^^ v '*^PI TMfMfflBPv^ t \\", V hi ^^f^fBl^^ii^iiii 'Itfeliiiii'* Path in the Wilderness, Franklin Park DORCHESTER DISTRICT 97 Catholic church. Brook Farm is but little changed in its outward aspect. It lies about a mile distant from Spring Street station on the railroad (by way of Baker Street). The Stony Brook Reservation of the Metropolitan Parks System is in this district. Forest Hills Cemetery, one of the most beautiful of modern burying grounds, is in another part of the district, close by the terminus of the Forest Hills lines of electrics and the Forest Hills station of the railroad. Here are the graves or tombs of General Joseph Warren, Rear Admirals Winslow and Thacher, William Lloyd Garrison, John Gilbert, the actor, Martin Milmore, the sculptor, and many others of distinction. At Milmore's grave is the monu- ment representing the Angel of Death staying the hand of the sculptor, an exceptionally fine piece of sculpture by Daniel C. French. Jamaica Plain, in which are the Arnold Arboretum and Olmsted Park of the Boston City Parks System, is a part of this district. The Dorchester District is now essentially a place of homes. It embraces a series of hills, several of them commanding pleasant water views. Meetinghouse Hill, in the southern part, is crowned with a fine example of the New England meetinghouse of the early nineteenth century, in direct descent from the first meetinghouse of 163 1. At Upham's Corner, on Dudley Street and Columbia Road, is the ancient burying ground, one of the most interesting in the country. Among the distinguished tombs here are those of Lieutenant Governor William Stoughton, chief justice of the court before which the witch- craft trials at Salem were held, and Richard Mather, the founder of the Mather family in New England. Many of the inscriptions on the stones are quaint, and there are a number of imposing tablets. The Brighton District was once the great cattle mart of New Eng- land, and famous also for its extensive market gardens and nurseries. A few of the latter remain, but the district is mainly a residential sec- tion so closely associated with newer Boston as to be a component part of it. 9 8 CAMBRIDGE II. THE METROPOLITAN REGION The thirty-six cities and towns comprising with modern Boston the Metropolitan District (see Plate V), all lying in the "Boston Basin" [see p. 3], or touched by a circle with a radius of ten miles from the State House, are: Cities — Cambridge, Chelsea, Everett, Lynn, Maiden, Medford, Mel- rose, Newton, Quincy, Somerville, Waltham, and Woburn. Towns — Arlington, Belmont, Braintree, Brookline, Canton, Dedham, Hull, Hyde Park, Milton, Nahant, Lexington, Needham, Reading, Revere, Saugus, Stoneham, Swampscott, Wakefield, Watertown, Welles- ley, Weston, Weymouth, Winchester, and Winthrop. All of these places, with the exception of Hull and Nahant, are within the suburban districts of the railroads terminating in Boston, with frequent train service, and are embraced in the electric-railway system. CAMBRIDGE AND HARVARD Harvard Square is our destination, and it is barely a half hour's ride by electric car taken in the Subway at Park Street station, or at Copley Square (Boylston Street), or further out on Massachusetts Avenue ; or by an electric car taken at Bowdoin Square. Let us agree to go by the latter route, purposing to return by the former, and not forgetting, ere we board the car in Bowdoin Square, to glance at the venerable Revere House, and especially at the little iron-railed balcony from which Daniel Webster delivered many a famous speech. We soon reach Charles Street, with the County Jail frowning on the right, and cross Charles River by the new and massive West Boston Bridge, completed in 1907. The river crossed, we find ourselves in busy Cambridgeport so called, amid factories and workshops, notably the great Athenaeum Press of Ginn & Company, near the river. A mile or so beyond we pass Athen.^um Press First Street, near West Boston Bridge HARVARD UNIVERSITY 99 City Hall Cherry Street ; and on Cherry Street (at the corner of Eaton Street) still stands the house in which Margaret Fuller was born. A little farther on at the left is Magazine Street, where, at the corner of Auburn Street Washington Allston once lived. Nearby on the right one observes a fine building of reddish granite with brownstone trimmings and a clock tower. This is City Hall, the gift of Frederick H. Rindge. The architects were Longfellow, Alden & Harlow. A short distance back of the City Hall may be seen a tablet which marks the spot where General Israel Put- nam had his headquarters during the Siege of Boston. Other city institutions may be seen by leav- ing the car at Trowbridge Street, at the end of which will be found the Public Library (by Ware and Van Brunt, 1889) and the Manual Training School (by Rotch and Tilden). These buildings also were the gift of Mr. Rindge. Close by are the Latin School and the English High School. Let us suppose, however, that, with our minds fixed on the Har- vard University, we remain in the car until, round- ing a corner, we come upon a large Baptist church of slatestone. This has no connec- Grounds of Harvard University tion with the university, but it stands in strange contiguity with Beck Hall, one of the most costly and luxurious of Harvard dormitories, — ■ not the property of the college. Alighting here, we find ourselves at HARVARD UNIVERSITY once on sacred ground. In front of us, and to the left, is the " Yard." To the right and separated from the yard by Quincy Street is the new Harvard Union, erected 1901, of which Henry L. Higginson and the late Henry Warren were the chief donors. McKim, Mead & White were the architects. It contains offices for the college papers, billiard rooms, a restaurant, a good library, and a large assembly room. It is a sort of home or meeting ground for graduates and undergraduates. Just beyond is the Colonial Club, where may be found the quintessence of Cambridge, the literary and academic elite. These buildings are on the right of Quincy Street. Upon the opposite side of the street, the first house, on the corner and within the Yard, was for- merly the Harvard Observa- tory. Afterward it was the home of President Felton, and later of the venerated Professor A. P. Peabody. The boundary wall of the yard in front of this build- ing, built in 1 90 1, was given by the class of 1880. The brick house next beyond it is the residence of President Eliot, and beyond that is the house long occupied by Professor Shaler. Next stands the newly erected Emerson Hall in memory of Ralph Waldo Emerson. Let us now retrace our steps and, turning the corner by the sometime observatory, we come first to a gate given by Mrs. Wirt Dexter to com- memorate her son, Samuel Dexter, a member of the class of 1890, who died in 1894. Next is the gate erected by the class of 1877, and entering here we find ourselves in front of the Library, or Gore Hall. The original building was the gift of Christopher Gore, a leading lawyer and governor of Massachusetts. Enlargements of modern date have increased its usefulness, if not its beauty. The library contains 400,200 bound volumes, and this number is swelled by outlying collec- tions in various departments of the university to 607,100, — to say nothing of pamphlets. For students who feel unequal to mastering the library as a whole, a small lot of 22,500 volumes is provided on the easily accessible shelves of the reading room. Among the valuable private collections that have been contributed to the library are Parkman's books, George Ticknor's collection of Dante literature, and Carlyle's collection of books relating to Cromwell and Frederick Harvard Main Gate HARVARD UNIVERSITY ioi the Great. Emerging from the library and skirting the yard to the right, we come first to Sever Hall, a recitation building, simple, sub- stantial, and dignified, the work of the late H. H. Richardson. It was built in 1880 from a fund given by Mrs. Anne E. P. Sever. To the left is the college chapel, called Appleton Chapel, a building of light stone erected in 1858, the gift of Samuel Appleton. Beyond it and facing on Cambridge Street is a neat building of stone, almost white, brought from Indiana. This is the William Hayes Fogg Art Museum, erected in 1895, an d given by Mrs. Elizabeth Fogg. It contains a large collection of casts, statues, engravings, coins, etc., but leaves something to be desired in point of beauty. Turning sharply to the left and continuing to skirt the yard, we find at the bend in the road the Phillips Brooks House, designed by A. W. Longfellow. It is the center of the religious life of the university. In this vicinity are two gates, one given by the class of 1876 and one by the class of 1886. Leaving this house behind us and turning our steps toward the center of the Yard, we come first to Holworthy, which was erected in 18 12 from money obtained by a lottery. Back of Holworthy, by the way, is a gate given by George Von L. Meyer, our ambassador to Italy. Holworthy, from its slightly elevated site at the head of the yard, occupies a commanding position, and has always been a favorite build- ing. It was the first dormitory that made any pretense to luxury, for it is arranged in suites of three rooms for " chums," — a study in front and two bedrooms in the rear of the building. Class-Day spreads and Commencement punches always found in Holworthy their fittest home. In front of Holworthy the Glee Club sings, and noted men gather in groups. Standing here we obtain the best view of the beautiful Yard, with its great elms, its shadows, its splashes of sunshine on the turf ; or, of a Class-Day night, its festoons of Japanese lanterns swaying from tree to tree. Who can number the romances that have been transacted or begun in the deeply recessed window seats, in the somber, academic, almost monastic shades of Holworthy Hall ! Time presses, however, and we must glance at the other buildings in the Quadrangle. Turning to the right or westerly side of the Yard, we come first to Stoughton, a dormitory built in 1805. In its rear, or nearly so, is Holden Chapel, the gift (1744) of Madam Holden of London, and once the college chapel. It is now used for society meetings. Just south of Holden Chapel is a gate given by the class of 1873, ano ^ noi 'th of that a gate and sundial erected by the class of 1870. Next comes Hollis Hall, also a dormitory, which dates back to 1763 and was the gift of Thomas Hollis of London. Three generations of that family were benefactors of the college. This building was used as barracks by 102 HARVARD UNIVERSITY the American soldiers in the Revolution at the time when the college was temporarily removed to Concord. Next to Hollis is Harvard Hall, a building which replaced an earlier Harvard Hall burned in 1764. The present building was also used as bar- racks in the Revolu- tionary War. It now holds some special libraries. There is a cupola on Harvard Hall containing a bell which rings for prayers and recitations. The space between the cor- ners of the two build- ings, Harvard and a tradition that once a heard the janitor mount- Harvard Gate, Class of 1877 Hollis, is only five or six feet, and there is student, trying to steal the tongue of the bell, ing the cupola, and running down the steep roof of Harvard,. jumped across the gap and landed safely on the roof of Hollis, whence he escaped. Next in order comes Massachusetts, but between Massachusetts Hall and Harvard Hall is the principal entrance from the street to the college yard, through the beautiful Johnston gateway, designed by Charles F. McKim. This is inscribed with the orders of the General Court relating to the establishment of the college in 1636-1639 and this extract : After God had carried vs safe to New England and wee had bvilded ovr hovses provided necessaries for ovr liveli hood reard convenient places for Gods worship and setled the civill government one of the next things we longed for and looked after was to advance learning and perpetvate it to posterity dreading to leave an illiterate ministery to the churches when our present ministers shall die in the dvst New Englands First Fruits. Massachusetts Hall, the oldest of the college buildings, was a gift to the college by the Province in 1720. This hall also was occupied by troops during the Revolution. Afterward it became a dormitory again, HARVARD UNIVERSITY 103 later a lecture room, and it is now used for meetings and public pur- poses. Beyond Massachusetts, in our tour of the Quadrangle, comes Matthews Hall, a dormitory erected in 1872 through the generosity of Nathan Matthews of Boston. This hall is said to stand on the site of the old Indian College, which was built in 1654 and in which several Indian youths struggled with the classics. One of them, Caleb Chee- shahteaumuck, took a degree and died. Just beyond Matthews Hall, and facing on the square, is Dane Hall. This was formerly the Law School, but is now occupied by the Btirsar^s office, lecture rooms, and a psychological laboratory. We come next to Grays Hall, a modern dormitory which faces Holworthy Hall, at the south end of the yard. It was the gift (1863) of Francis C. Gray of Boston, and its site is probably that of the first college building. Back of Grays Hall, and close to the street, is an ancient wooden building, yet of dignified aspect, called Wadsworth House. This house was built in 1726, jointly by the Colony and by the college, as a residence for the presidents of the institution. It was Washington's headquarters until, as we shall presently see, he removed to the Longfellow house on Brattle Street. The speaker of the Massachusetts House of Representatives, 1 900-1 903, James J. Myers, who after his graduation at Harvard became a tutor and proctor, took up his residence in Wadsworth House at that time, and, with rare fidelity, has remained there ever since. Returning now to the Quadrangle, the substantial granite building standing a little back and near the street is Boylston Hall, built in 1857 from money bequeathed by Ward Nicholas Boylston, whose picture, in flowered- silk dressing gown and cap, lights up Memorial Hall. Boylston Hall is devoted to chemistry. Next in order, and facing Matthews Hall, is Weld Hall, a dormitory given to the college in 1872 by William F. Weld. Beyond that is a simple, graceful, and dignified building of white granite, built in 18 1 5 from a design by Bulfinch. It is called University Hall, and for many years was the main recitation building. It is now used as an office building. University Hall and Sever Hall might perhaps be described as the two buildings in the yard which are beautiful in themselves, apart frcm any association. Beyond University, standing at right angles with Holworthy, is Thayer Hall, a dormitory given to the college in 1870 by Nathaniel Thayer. Passing out of the Quadrangle and continuing to Cambridge Street, which bounds the yard on the north, we have within view many build- ings, mostly of recent construction, belonging to the university. Oppo- site the Phillips Brooks House, on the other side of the street, is the Hemenway Gymnasium, given by Augustus Hemenway in 1878. To the right is the Lawrence Scientific School building, given by Abbott 104 HARVARD UNIVERSITY Lawrence in 1847, and reenforced in 1884 by a building in Holmes's Field just beyond, erected by T. Jefferson Coolidge of Boston. In this last building the visitor may behold an electric machine given to the college by Benjamin Franklin, and a telescope used by Professor John Winthrop. Immediately in front of us is a triangular-shaped piece of ground called the Delta, formerly the college playground, until Memo- rial Hall, designed by Ware and Van Brunt, was built there in the seventies. The statue in the Delta is an ideal statue of John Harvard, whose bequest of his library to the college in 1636 was really its start- ing point. It is the work of Daniel C. French, and the gift of Samuel J. Bridge. The exterior of Memorial Hall may perhaps strike the visitor as lacking unity and simplicity, but the interior will not disappoint him. Memorial Hall proper, where are inscribed the names of those Harvard graduates who died in the Civil War, is noble and impressive ; and the great dining hall, which occupies the whole western end of the building, with room for over a thousand students, which is paneled with oak, beautified by memorial stained-glass windows, and filled with pictures and busts, all of which have an historic and some of which have an artistic interest, is probably unique in this country. If, before entering Memorial Hall (and Sanders Theatre), we turn to the right on leaving the college yard, we shall come first to Robinson Hall, at the corner of Quincy Street and Broadway, the architectural building, containing many casts and engravings. On the opposite side of Broadway, in the " Little Delta," is the old gymnasium, built in 1858, now occupied by the Germanic Museum. Of the many other buildings belonging to the university in this neigh- borhood only a few can be mentioned. Randall Hall, at the corner of Divinity Avenue, with a dining room that seats five hundred, is a good piece of architecture, constructed by Wheelwright & Haven. Beyond are the Semitic Museum; Divinity Hall, an unsectarian theological school; the University Museum, comprising the Museum of Comparative Zoology, the Botanical Museum, the Mineralogical Museum, the Geological Museum, and the Peabody Museum, founded in 1866 by George Peabody, the American banker of London. All of these are open to visitors, and all contain something to interest even the unscientific person. Returning to the vicinity of the yard, mention should be made of the Law School building, near the Hemenway Gymnasium, as this harbors one of the strongest departments of the university. The Harvard Law School has not only a national but an international repu- tation, and it has been described by an English jurist as superior to any other school of the kind in the world. The building was designed by H. H. Richardson, the architect of Seaver Hall, to which, however, it is WASHINGTON ELM scarcely equal. The library contains forty-four thousand volumes. Near this hall once stood the yellow gambrel-roofed house in which Dr. Oliver Cambridge Wendell Holmes was born. It was removed about twenty years ago. The statue of Charles Sumner, by Miss Anne Whitney, is in the triangular plot of ground near by. Leaving the univer- sity buildings we cross the Cambridge Com- mon to the west of the yard, formerly, by the way, a place of execu- tion, and once the scene of an open-air sermon by Whitefield. Here is a bronze statue of John Bridge, the Puritan, in the garb of his time, an excellent piece of sculpture by Thomas R. Gould and his son, Marshall S. Gould. In the roadway, just west of the Common, stands the time- worn Washington Elm, to which is affixed a tablet stating the historic fact that under this tree Washington first took command of the American Washington Elm io6 RADCLIFFE COLLEGE army. Opposite the Washington Elm is the group of buildings belong- ing to Radcliffe College, the girls' college, a recognized and highly suc- cessful part of the university. These buildings are on the corner of Garden and Mason streets. This venture of giving women instruction in the same studies that were pur- sued at Harvard was begun in a small way in 1879. It was not a P art OI Harvard, but, as a humorous student remarked, it was a Harvard Annex. The name came into common use. The professors and tutors as a rule were strongly in favor Longfellow House of the scheme, some even offering to teach for nothing rather than have it fail. The Annex was a success. The Fay house on Garden Street was bought. Lady Anne Moulson in 1643 na d given £100 as a scholarship to Harvard, the first one. Her maiden name was Radcliffe, and as the Annex grew it was incorporated as Radcliffe College, and now has several fine buildings, a large number of students, and its diplomas bear the seal of the older institution and the signature of its president. In the Fay house, by the way, in 1836, the words of " Fair Harvard" were written by the Rev. Samuel Gilman of Charleston, S.C. Returning toward the college we pass Christ Church, which was built in 1760 by Peter Harrison, who designed King's Chapel in Bos- ton. Washington worshiped here. Adjoining the church is an old burying ground which dates from 1636, the year of the founding of the college. Near the fence will be observed a milestone bearing this inscription: "Boston, 8 miles. 1734." This was one of many mile- stones set up by Governor Dudley; and what is now a legend was LONGFELLOW AND LOWELL HOUSES °7 once true, for, before the bridges were constructed over the Charles River between Boston and Cambridge, the highway connecting the two places ran through Boston Neck and what is now Brighton, and was no less than eight miles long. Some outlying spots might well be visited if time allowed, and espe- cially Soldiers Field, the present extensive playground of the univer- sity, and the gift of Major Henry L. Higginson. This borders upon the river, half a mile or so south of the yard, and near it are the Harvard boathouses. Brattle Street, the "Tory Row" of Provincial days, is easily reached by electric car from Harvard Square, and is full of inter- est. Here are the stone buildings of the Episcopal Theological School, and just above them the Longfellow house, one of the finest of colonial mansions. It was built about the year 1759 by Colonel John Vassall, a refugee of the Revolution. Washington took up his headquarters here when he removed from Wadsworth House, and here Madam Washington joined him. Afterward the estate passed into the hands of various owners : was used as a lodging house by Harvard professors when the widow Craigie owned it ; was occupied by such distinguished persons as Jared Sparks, Edward Everett, and Worcester, the dictionary maker ; and finally became the home of the poet Longfellow. It is now occupied by a daughter, Miss Alice Longfellow, and next to it is the home of another daughter who married a public-spirited citizen, Richard H. Dana, son of the distin- guished lawyer who wrote " Two Years Before the Mast," and grandson of the poet of the same name. About ten minutes' walk on Brattle Street beyond the Longfellow house brings us to the corner of Elmwood Avenue, which leads past the familiar Lowell house, where James Russell Lowell was born, and which was his lifelong home. The seclusion of the house, which Lowell so much enjoyed, is now impaired by the parkway which skirts the Lowell grove. Mt. Auburn Street itself has been mod- ernized by a succession of public hospitals and the like. Back of these hospitals, on the river, the curious visitor may behold the site where Leif Lowell House 108 MOUNT AUBURN Ericson built his house in the year iooi, or thereabout, — according to the identification of Professor Eben N. Horsford, whose other memorials of supposed Norsemen we shall encounter later. Close at hand is Mount Auburn, celebrated for its natural beauty, as well as for the distinguished dead who lie buried here. In the vestibule of the brownstone chapel at the left of the entrance to the cemetery are the much-admired statues of John Winthrop (by Greenough), John Adams (by Randall Rogers), James Otis (by Thomas Crawford), and Joseph Story (by his son). Turning to the left we seek Fountain Avenue and the graves of the Rev. Charles Lowell, of his son, James Russell Lowell, and of the latter's three nephews, all of whom were killed in the Civil War. " Some choice New England stock in that little plot of ground." On the ridge back of this lot is the monument of Longfellow, and near by (on Lime Avenue) the grave of Holmes. If, instead of turning to the left from the entrance, we ascend the hill to the right, passing the statue of Bow- ditch, the mathematician, we shall come to the old Gothic chapel now used as a crematory. Facing this stands the famous Sphinx, the work of Martin Milmore. Among other monuments in various parts of the cemetery are those of William Ellery Channing (Green-Briar Path), Hosea Ballou (Central Avenue), Charles Sumner (Arethusa Path), Edward Everett (Magnolia Avenue), Charlotte Cushman (Palm Avenue), Edwin Booth (Anemone Path), Louis Agassiz (Bellwort Path), Anson Burlingame (Spruce Avenue), Samuel G. Howe (near Spruce Avenue), and Phillips Brooks (Mimosa Path). In the Fuller lot (Pyrola Path) is a monument to Margaret Fuller Ossoli. From the cemetery a Huron Avenue car will take us to the Astro- nomical Observatory, and by walking through the observatory grounds we can reach the Harvard Botanic Garden, laid out in 1807. This garden, open to the public, is full of interesting features, such as a bed of Shakespearean flowers, another of flowers mentioned by Virgil, and still another of such quaint plants as grew in an old-time New England garden. The sight-seeing resources of Cambridge are not yet exhausted, but the sight-seer may be ; and so from the Botanic Garden we will take an electric car for Boston, " stopping off," however, at Harvard Square. Across Massachusetts Avenue, at the corner of Dunster Street, we may observe the site, marked by a tablet, of the house of Stephen Daye, first printer in British America, 1638-1648. Here were printed the " Bay Psalm-Book " and Eliot's Indian Bible. Farther down Dunster Street, at the corner of Mt. Auburn Street, is marked the site of the first meeting- house in Cambridge, set up in 1632 ; and still farther down, at the corner of South Street, is a tablet where once stood the house of Thomas Dudley, founder of Cambridge, who lived here in 1630. BROOKLINE 109 From the south side of Massachusetts Avenue leads off Bow Street, once the great highway through these parts ; and here may still be seen the colonial mansion occupied in prerevolutionary days by Colonel David Phips. In the same street the regicides Whalley and Gaffe were in hiding (1660) until the king, learning of their presence, ordered their arrest ; they fled to New Haven. Just above Bow Street is Plympton Street, where, shut in by modern brick dormitories, is a fine wooden colonial mansion, constructed about 1761 by the Rev. East Apthorp, rector of Christ Church. Mr. Apthorp, it was supposed, aspired to be a bishop, and consequently his house was called in derision the "Bishop's Palace." Burgoyne was lodged here after his surrender at Saratoga. Taking an electric car again, we return to Boston via the new Har- vard Bridge. Two hundred years ago this would have been a ride on horseback, or in a chaise, of eight miles, and over a rough road. Now it is a trip of three or four miles, accomplished, luxuriously, in less than half an hour. Cotton Mather would have shuddered at the change ; and yet the University is now so large, and so completely a little world in itself, that even the proximity of Boston can hardly ruffle its com- posure or divert its scholastic energies. BROOKLINE Brookline is the richest suburb of Boston and in many respects the most attractive, with numerous beautiful estates and tasteful " villas " and charming drives. During all the years since its population entitled it to a city charter, its people have steadfastly refused to give up their primitive government by the New England town meeting, just as they have declined all propositions looking to annexation to Boston, although their territory is embraced on three sides by the encroaching munici- pality. It began, however, as a possession of Boston. As " Muddy River," so first called from the stream which still bears the name and contributes no little to the attractiveness of the Fenway section of the Boston City Parks System, its fertile fields were originally utilized by the chief settlers at Boston as a " grazing-place for their swine and other cattle, while corn" was on the ground in Boston. For a time, through this usage, it was known as " Boston Commons." It was set off as an independent town only in 1705, when the name of Brooklyn was given it, and its inhabitants were " enjoyned to build a meeting- house and obtain an Orthodox minister," — so closely were civic and ecclesiastical prerogatives blended in the government then. We may reach Brookline from Boston easily, quickly, and cheaply no BACK BAY FENS by several routes. The Newton Circuit line of the New York Central Railroad (South Station, or Trinity Place Station, a few steps from Copley Square) skirts and traverses the town, and has four stations within its borders. Various trolley lines cover it more generally, — via Tremont Street and Roxbury Crossing to Brookline Village ; via Boyls- ton and Ipswich streets and Brookline Avenue to the same point ; via Beacon Street to the Chestnut Hill reservoir; via Huntington Avenue and Brookline Village to several destinations. For the purpose of rapid exploration the trolley is superior to the steam railway, and the last-named Agassiz Bridge in the Fens line is the most convenient. In the Subway, or on Boylston Street or Huntington Avenue, or at Copley Square we may take any outward-bound car bearing the legend " Brookline Village via Huntington Avenue." Leaving Copley Square we soon pass the succession of notable build- ings about and beyond Massachusetts Avenue, and presently traverse a quite open territory. On the left are the large grounds and buildings of the Boston American Baseball Club ; and if we look still farther to the south we can see beyond the New York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad tracks the similar plant of its rival (National) association. On our right is a wide expanse of the land reclaimed from the primeval salt marsh, whereon occasional circuses and other tent shows encamp. Beyond this not inviting tract we catch glimpses of the Back Bay Fens, — part of the Boston City Parks System, — which follow the general course of the tortuous Muddy River from its mouth at the GARDNER MUSEUM Charles to a point near Brookline Avenue, where they narrow into the Riverway. Near the Tremont entrance to the Fens from Huntington Avenue we get a view of " Fenway Court," which contains the rich collection of works of art belonging to the Isabella Stuart Gardner Museum corporation. Close by this Venetian structure is seen the Simmons College building (see pp. 89-90) ; and north of the college, the Church of the Disciples (Unitarian), successor of the meetinghouse at the South End of the city, long the pulpit of James Freeman Clarke. Next in our immediate neighborhood appears the cluster of Boston Normal School buildings (erecting in 1907) ; then the noble group of white pillared structures constituting the Medical School of Harvard Uni- versity, facing the pro- posed Avenue Louis Pasteur. A little farther on we pass the House of the Good Shepherd, a Catholic institution for the shelter and reclama- tion of wayward women and girls, — a large brick structure set in ample grounds. As we cross the Riverway just at the foot of Leverett Pond, into which the river here widens, a pleasing vista opens out to the left. On either side of the tranquil lake are superb driveways, which of a pleasant afternoon are crowded with vehicles. A few rods farther on we are brought to our immediate destination, Village Square, where free trans- fers to other trolley lines may be made. Since our present object is to see something of the historical side of Brookline, as well as the part wherein is most exhibited the progress attained in the art of the landscape archi- tect, we will here transfer to another car. We may remark in passing that on the left of the street (Washington) by which we entered the square stood in the old days the " Punch-Bowl Tavern," built about 1730, — before the Revolution a favorite junketing place for British officers from the Boston garrison, and for nearly a century the stopping place of the stagecoaches for Worcester and other inland towns, and for the great goods wagons, the pioneers of our modern freight trains. Boylston Street, originally the Worcester turnpike, branches off to the left, and since the Ipswich Street line of cars from Boston, mentioned The Gardner Museum of Art 112 BOSTON CHURCH AND MUSICAL DIRECTORY. St. John's Church; 1262 Tremont St. Pastor — Rev. Chas. Mockridge, 107 Hampshire St., Roxbury. Clerk — Henry Boone, 79A Sheridan St., Jamaica Plain. Choir — Boys and men with an auxiliary choir of women. Musical Director and Organist — Vacant. Deacons — Wilson Dibblee, 26 Greenville St., Roxbury; Ed- ward E. Cutter, 21 Allston St., Dorchester. Superintendent — Rev. Charles Mockridge. Sexton — William Francis, 101 Hampshire St., Roxbury. Hours of Service — 8, 10, 10.30 A. M., 7.30 P. M. St. John's Church in the City of Boston; 80 Lexington St., East Boston. Pastor — Rev. Charles E. Jackson, 115 Trenton St., East Boston. Clerk — William J. Watkins, 1057 Saratoga St., East Boston. Choir — Surpliced choir. Mrs. MAY SHEPARD HAYWARD Soprano CHURCH, CONCERT, OPERA, ACCOMPANIST Pianoforte and Singing Instruction NEWTON . . MASS. Telephone, Newton North 851-3 EPISCOPAL. 113 Musical Director and Organist — Herbert C. Peabody, 37 West Eagle St. Wardens— Wm. L. Sweeney, 255 Meridian St., East Boston; Wm. H. Adams, 455 Meridian St., East Boston. Superintendent — Rev. Geo. Stanley Fiske, 117 Trenton St. Sexton — Wm. O. Farmer, 117 Trenton St. Hours of Service — 10.30 A. M., 7.30 P. M. St. John's Episcopal Church; corner Devens St. and Ruther- ford Ave., Charlestown. Pastor— Rev. Philo W. Sprague, 41 Monument Sq., Charles- town. Organist and Musical Director — Charles Wilson, Harvard St., Charlestown. Wardens— Benjamin F. Stacey, 33 High St., Charlestown; Dr. Edward E. Allen, 32 Monument St., Charlestown. Sexton — William Hodges, St. John's Parish House, Devens St., Charlestown. ERNEST W. HARRISON PIANIST ORGANIST and DIRECTOR Old Cambridge Baptist Church TEACHER of PIANOFORTE Studio, 23 Belvidere Street, BOSTON Telephone 114 POINTS OF INTEREST IN BROOKLINE fine granite Town Hall, and the brick Public Library building (capacity of this library, 75,000 volumes) on the right. We now enter upon a region of ample, homelike-looking houses, generously encompassed by well-kept grounds. To our left we see Aspinwall Hill rise sharply, its sides here and there showing open patches of pleasant lawn among the tree-embowered estates. An occasional break in the line of front walls inclosing the Washington Street properties accommodates a " path " of steep stairs leading up to Gardner Road, the first of the series of streets partly encircling the hill. Many others there are, in sweeping curves or cres- cents, entering upon and continuing short bits of straight highway. The landscape architects have happily avoided the mistake of trying to lay out a swelling hilltop in rectangles. We may alight at Gardner Path, hedge- and vine-bordered, which will bring us up to the most picturesque part of Gardner Circle. To our left is the Blake estate, occupying part of the original Muddy River farm of the Rev. John Cotton, the early colonial minister of the church in Boston. Above, on one of the most sightly parts of the slope, stood, until within a year or two, the old Aspinwall house, shaded by fine elms. Its site now bears a modern mansion. Dr. William Aspinwall, who built it in 1803, was a notable physician in his day, a minuteman from the town, and a patriot all through the Revolution. His house — a grand one in its period, and to its last day a dignified, ample structure — was once the only dwelling on this side of the hill, and commanded the whole sweep of the Charles River and the then distant town of Boston in its outlook. Ascending to the top of the hill, if we desire, by a sort of switch-back arrangement of curving and gradually rising roads, we pass many attractive residences, mostly new, our highest point being reached on the S-shaped Addington Road, two hundred and forty feet above sea level. From here, so far as the breaks between the rows of apartment houses will permit, we catch glimpses of country hills to the south, and of the village at our feet ; to the north, across the Beacon Street Boulevard, rises Corey Hill, two hundred and sixty feet high, formerly part of the extensive farm of Deacon Timothy Corey, now covered with showy modern estates. We can descend to the boulevard in a few minutes by Addington Path and Winthrop Road, and take any Newton Boulevard car, west- bound, which will convey us shortly to Beacon Circle, directly facing which is the high embankment and gatehouse of the Chestnut Hill Reservoir, through which flows a great part of the water supply of Bos- ton. Here to the left is the High-Service Pumping Station, a group of solid buildings of some architectural merit, especially when seen across POINTS OF INTEREST IN BROOKLINE 115 the beautiful expanse of waters making up the reservoir. The pumps are among the largest and finest of their class. From this point our car turns to the right through Chestnut Hill Avenue, along the eastern edge of the reservoir, and immediately we reenter Boston. To our right are various roads with English and Scotch names, making up the Aberdeen District, an attractive and healthful addition to the city's " sleeping room," lately built up in the midst of what was primeval forest and ragged ledges of pudding stone. To our left, as we turn into Commonwealth Avenue, the grounds surrounding the twin lakes of the reservoir have been taken by the Metropolitan Water Board and converted into the Reservoir Park, one of the most restful and charming pleasure grounds to be found in the neighborhood of any great city. All around the winding outlines of the basin runs a trim driveway, and beside it a smooth gravel footpath. On all sides of the lake are symmetrical knolls, covered with forest trees and the greenest of turf. The banks to the water's edge are sodded and bor- dered with flowering shrubs ; and the stonework, which in one place carries the road across a natural chasm, and the great natural ledges, are mantled with clinging vines, and in autumn are aflame with the crimson of the Ampelopsis and the Virginia creeper. On the southern side, close to the narrow isthmus dividing the upper from the lower lake, stands a classical gatehouse, and behind it Chestnut Hill rears its wooded mass, crowned with some attractive dwellings. A pleasant, shaded road winds to the hilltop, which commands a noble prospect. Our car continues along Commonwealth Avenue, which here crosses a high ridge. To the right the view embraces a pretty stone chapel, thrifty truck patches sloping away from our feet, a deep, verdant valley, with Strong's and Chandler's ponds nestling in its greenery. At the foot of the hill below us stands the Catholic Theological Seminary of St. John, a cluster of buildings imbedded in noble trees. The estate which it occupies was once an extensive country seat, known as the Stanwood place, comprising many acres of beautiful wooded land ; and much of its beauty in woodland has wisely been retained. On our left we pass Evergreen Cemetery, and beyond several handsome estates set well back from the street. At the foot of the hill, Lake Street, we reach-the boundary line of the city of Newton, and here is a little transfer station, where we change to a car of the Commonwealth Avenue line, which traverses the beautiful extension of the famous Boston avenue, — this part called the Newton Boulevard, — leading to various sections of Newton and to the country town of Weston. n6 NEWTONS AND WESTON THE NEWTONS AND WESTON Along Newton Boulevard to the Newtons and Weston. From the trans- fer station at Lake Street (reached by all electric cars from the Subway or Copley Square marked " Newton Boulevard ") our car first climbs the long slope of Waban Hill, the highest of Newton's many hills, — three hundred and twenty feet, — lined with modern houses whose chief recommendation is the charming outlook which they enjoy. On the summit, to our right, is the reservoir of the city of Newton. From this point the road stretches out in graceful, sweeping curves for about five miles, to the old stone bridge crossing the Charles River to Weston, at nearly the westernmost apex of the town. The road is practically perfect, — a broad, smooth driveway on either side of a turfed and shaded park through which the double tracks of the trolley line run, per- mitting of high speed. Advantage has been taken of the naturally diversified configuration of the country to make the highway as pictur- esque as possible, and we smoothly climb lofty ridges, gayly swing down their farther slopes, wind around the shoulders of swelling knolls, and whirl through shady forest depths in as much comfort and with nearly as much speed as the occupants of the many automobiles which find this their most delightful trip out of Boston. We pass between the villages of Newton, Newtonville, and West Newton on our right ; Newton Center, Newton Highlands, and Waban on our left, and through one edge of Auburndale, which here skirts the river. Our terminus is the favorite pleasure ground called Norumbega Park, where the trolley company has provided on the shore of the stream a variety of attractions for many tastes, — an open-air theater, an extensive menagerie, a cafe, and a large boathouse, where canoes and rowboats may be hired. A launch plies the river between the park and Waltham, making hourly trips daily, afternoon and evening. Canoeing is the all-engrossing sport on this part of the river, and just around the bend to our left is the Riverside Recreation Ground. We cannot see it, for a high wooded promontory shuts off our view ; but we may take a canoe and paddle up through the stone arch of the Weston Bridge, and in a few minutes we shall be in the thick of the fleet at Riverside, where on a pleasant afternoon or evening the water is often so densely covered that one might almost cross the stream by stepping from one canoe to another. Frequently during the summer the fleet parades, decorated with lanterns, bunting, and flowers, and various water fetes are held at odd times. The grounds and boathouses are extensive and well equipped ; and near by are the houses of the Newton Boat Club, the Boston Canoe Club, and the Boston Athletic Association, NEWTONS AND WESTON 117 whose large membership helps to swell the crowds upon the river on these occasions. As we stand at the Weston Bridge, looking west, the noble mass of Doublet Hill, with its twin summits respectively three hundred and forty and three hundred and sixty feet high, rises directly before us. On the hither slope, during 1 902-1 903, the forces of the Metropolitan Water Board have been busily at work, constructing an equalizing reservoir and the channel leading to it, and laying the great sixty-inch mains down from the reservoir to and across the river. A thirteen-mile aqueduct, much of it tunneled through the rock, brings the water from the Sud- bury dam in Southboro, through Framingham, Wayland, and Weston to this new reservoir. The huge mains constructed during the summer of 1902 along the Newton Boulevard now convey the additional supply to the Chestnut Hill basins. From its summit Doublet Hill presents a fine view of the surrounding country, and its ascent is easy, either by a path through the wood or via South Avenue (which forms the western continuation of Common- wealth Avenue through Weston and Wayland) and Newton Street, which branches off a little to the right and leads to Weston village and the sta- tion of the Boston & Maine Railroad. If we take the latter course we shall pass the residences of many professional and business men, who find Weston a quiet and healthful home. Thus far the trolley road has not invaded the old town ; but the selectmen have granted a franchise lately to a company which proposes to build from Waltham, and very soon the ubiquitous electric cars will be whizzing and clanging through the shady streets, so long sacred to private vehicles. To the left of South Avenue, East Newton Street pursues a winding course to the river at Newton Lower Falls, a factory village, where one may take a train for Boston if he so desires. On the way one passes "Kewaydin," the extensive estate of Francis Blake (inventor of the Blake telephone transmitter), a castellated structure standing on a high, stone-walled bank. But probably the most generally interesting spot to be reached by a short walk from Weston Bridge is the famous Norumbega Tower, built by the late Professor Eben N. Horsford to commemorate the site of the Norsemen's fort founded by Leif Ericson about the year 1000, as Professor Horsford held. He elaborately carried out his identification of Watertown with the Vinland of the Northmen, and traced their wharves, canals, docks, and walls along the river to this point, the site of their stronghold, where may still be seen — at least the professor saw them — the remains of the moat and dam which the Northmen constructed. On this walk a short distance up South Avenue we take the first turn n8 NORTHERN NEWTONS to the right, River Street, and follow that street along the riverside for about half a mile, to the mouth of Stony Brook, which divides Weston from Waltham. The tower is a structure of field stone, with an inside staircase giving access to a lookout at the top, and it bears a tablet upon which is inscribed a detailed description of the Norsemen's works according to Professor Horsford's theory. Here the waters of Stony Brook are collected by a dam across the mouth of the narrow gorge, forming one of the reservoirs of the city of Cambridge. Beyond it, the towering bulk of Prospect Hill, in Waltham, cuts off further view in this direction. We might reach Prospect Hill by a walk of about three miles, but it would be better to return to Norumbega Park and Boston. The Northern Newtons. By way of varying our route and seeing some- thing of the northern Newtons, we will take a red car, which turns off the boulevard at Washington Street and follows that chief thoroughfare of this section down the steep incline through West Newton, a conven- ient and — away from the railroad — a pretty residential section. This is also the civic center of Newton, the City Hall standing near the New York Central Railroad station. We pass it soon after reaching the foot of the hill, Washington Street swinging around to the right and hence- forward following the steam railroad tracks. These were depressed a few years ago, at great expense, so as entirely to eliminate grade crossings — of which there were many — throughout the city. This street is the chief business avenue all along through Newtonville to Newton, — anciently Newton Corner, — where our line ends and we may transfer to cars for other villages or for Boston, via Brighton and Commonwealth Avenue. Taking one of the latter, a ride of less than five minutes through Tremont Street brings us to Waverley Avenue, where we alight if we wish to see the Eliot Monument, commemorating the first preaching to the Indians by John Eliot, " the apostle." It is rather a stiff climb up Waverley Avenue to Kenrick Street (on the left), and a few minutes' walk along Kenrick Street to a lane on the right, which leads a few steps down to the unique monument, — a handsome balustraded ter- race, on the face of which are set tablets bearing the names of Eliot and his associates, and this inscription : Here at Nonantum, Oct. 28, 1646, in Waban's wigwam near this spot, John Eliot began to preach the gospel to the Indians. Here he founded the first Christian community of Indians within the English colonies. The view from the top of the terrace is very fine. It embraces much of the ground which we traversed on our way out from Boston, NEWTON AND WELLESLEY 119 including the wooded slope of Waban Hill just opposite, Strong's and Chandler's ponds in the valley to our left, and St. John's Catholic Seminary in its grove close beside the Boulevard. We may, if we wish, cross over Waban Hill via Waverley and Grant avenues, returning to Lake Street transfer station, and choose one of two or three pleasant routes back to the city. The cars via Coolidge's Corner and the Beacon Street boulevard will show us all the latest tri- umphs of the builder's art in blocks and apartment houses ; those via Commonwealth Avenue will take us swiftly over a magnificent ridge, — the northwestern end of Corey Hill, — from the top of which a sweep- ing view is had of Boston, Cambridge, and many towns beyond. The road is winding and runs up hill and down dale, like its Newton pro- longation ; and since it is not much built up as yet, and there are few intersecting streets, our speed is but little less than that of the automo- biles which make this a favorite course. Either car we may take will soon bring us back to Copley Square or the Subway. Newton was originally part of Cambridge, but in 1691 was set off as Newton by the General Court, its previous designation having been Little Cambridge. Its Indian name of Nonantum is perpetuated in one of the least attractive of its many villages, — a manufacturing hamlet on the north side, separated from Watertown only by the river. The area within the city limits is nearly thirteen thousand acres, and its contour is very diversified, a number of fine hills rising to heights of from two hundred to three hundred and twenty feet. The Charles River forms the meandering boundary line, separating Newton from Watertown, Waltham, Weston, Wellesley, and Needham, successively. The main line and also the Newton Circuit branch of the New York Central Railroad traverse the city and serve the various sections with a dozen stations. A number of electric lines, radiating mostly from the business center, — anciently Newton Corner, now plain Newton, — thread all sections. NEWTON AND WELLESLEY The many trolley lines radiating from Boston to all its suburbs make it easy to reach widely separated places of interest in a single afternoon, or at most in a day. In such a trip could be included the southern Newtons, Wellesley, Natick, Needham, Waltham, and Watertown. The territory embraced in these places is very extensive ; but if, instead of describing the wide arc of a circle including them, one traverses several chords of that arc, the various points are easily and rapidly covered. Essaying first the southernmost of these chords, we may take a Boston & Worcester car in Park Square, thence ride out through Brookline and Newton via Boylston Street and its continuations in Wellesley, 120 NEWTON AND WELLESLEY almost in a bee line to Natick ; or we may take a blue car marked " Natick " from the Subway, passing through Commonwealth Avenue and the Newton Boulevard to Washington Street, Newton ; thence to the left through Auburndale and the " Lower Falls " to the same destination. If we choose the route last mentioned, — by the blue car marked " Natick," — our course from the intersection of the Boulevard and Washington Street, in Newton, is up quite a steep rise, past the Woodland Park Hotel on the right, — a roomy, wooden building, in wide-spreading, shaded grounds. At the next street opening above we get a glimpse of the large building of the Lasell Seminary, a noted school for girls ; and a little farther on we cross the track of the Newton Circuit steam line, the Woodland station being close at our right. We pass attractive houses by the way, nearly all surrounded by generous grounds and several shaded by natural forest trees. As we cross Beacon Street we pass the Newton Hospital, an excellent example of the cottage type of such institutions, standing in large and well-kept grounds. Our course continues in the same general direction, southwest, to Newton Lower Falls, a small, conventional factory village, where the water power of the Charles River has been utilized to propel woolen mills and one or two paper mills since about 1790. An ancient burying ground here contains the graves of Revolutionary soldiers. At this point we cross the river and enter the town of Wellesley. For the rest of our way the trolley track parallels the main line of the New York Central Railroad. That part of Wellesley through which we first pass is locally known as " The Farms" though the village and railroad station are some distance to our right. Wellesley is by nature one of the most picturesque towns in eastern Massachusetts, and its natural beauties have been enhanced by the art of the landscape architect. As we continue along Washington Street, to our left rises Maugus Hill, three hundred feet high, on top of which is the town reservoir. About a mile from the town line we pass the neat stone Wellesley Hills station of the steam railroad, which just above has made its way through a deep rock cutting in the high ledge. Above the station is the Welles- ley High School building. Beyond is an attractive stone church (Uni- tarian). Nearly a mile farther, in a picturesque inclosure of ten acres, shaded by fine trees and bordered on its hither side by a gurgling brook overhung with water willows, stands the Wellesley Town Hall and Public Library building, a gift to the town by the late H. Hollis Hunnewell, all complete, in 1881, when the town was set off from Needham and incorporated (its name being taken from Mr. HunnewelPs notable estate, WELLESLEY 121 which in turn was named from Mrs Hunnewell's maternal grandfather, Samuel Welles, who about 1750 owned the place). The Town Hall is of stone, in the style of a French chateau, with porch facing the square, surmounted by a clock. The library is a distinct part of the building, with a separate entrance. A short distance beyond we come to Wellesley Square, where is the Needham trolley line. Here carriages may be taken for a drive to the Hunnewell estate, which is generously open to the public. An hour may profitably be given to visiting it. The grounds embrace five hundred acres, of which sixty acres nearest the house have a frontage on the beautiful Lake Waban, named for the Indian chief who was Eliot's first convert. Two long avenues of fine trees extend from the public way to the house, on one side of which is a vast lawn, on the other a French parterre, or architectural garden. Broad flights of stairs lead down therefrom to the parapet wall along the lake front, through successive terraces with evergreens on either side, trimmed into various fanciful forms. Along the lake shore is an Italian garden, with prim array of formal clipped trees. Great hedges of hemlock and arbor vitae, fine vistas down avenues of purple beeches and white pines, extensive conservatories, and a graceful azalea tent, all add to the charm of the place. Near by is the Robert G. Shaw estate, a picturesque mansion house set among fine trees and surrounded by beautiful lawns. Not far away — just where the Charles River in one of its most sinuous bends forms the boundary line between Wellesley and Dover — is the Cheney place, country seat of Mrs. B. P. Cheney, widow of a pioneer in the express business of America and in transcontinental railroads, an estate of two hundred acres. The views up and down the river here enhance the natural beauties of the land, which is highly diversified. The estate is laid out in a mingling of lawns, flower gardens, woods, groves, meadows, and fields. The five great elms which surround the house, tradition says, were brought from Nonantum, now Newton, and planted here by one of the friendly Indian tribe whom Eliot taught. The lawn of six- teen acres, inclosed by fine hedges, is one of the noteworthy features. Still farther south — indeed almost at the southern boundary of the town, where Ridge Hill, two hundred feet high, slopes to the placid waters of Sabrina Pond — is the famous Ridge Hill farm, of eight hun- dred and seventy acres. This attained most of its fame during the life- time of a former owner, William Emerson Baker, who made a fortune in sewing machines, and who delighted in giving great fetes here on occa- sion, providing for the amusement and mystification of his guests vari- ous surprises, droll and bewildering, sumptuous feasts, and odd sports. 122 WELLESLEY COLLEGE But Wellesley's chief fame lies in Wellesley College, for women, which crowns the rounded hilltops on the north side of Waban Lake, toward which its 300 acres of grounds gently slope. On the lake are the col- lege boathouses, whence on "Float Day" go forth the class crews of young women to show off their prowess as oarswomen before the admiring gaze of relatives and friends ashore. The college is at the left of Central Street, through which our car continues on its way to Natick. A short distance beyond the square, as we cross Blossom Street, we catch the first glimpse of the buildings and pass Fiske Cot- tage at one of the entrances to the grounds. A little beyond, the white dome and low, square building of the new observatory — gift of Mrs. Sarah E. Whitin of Whitinsville — cap a gentle hillock. As we near the North Lodge, opposite, across the valley, on the crest of a fine ridge, stands College Hall, the main building, designed by Hammatt Billings. Its ground plan is a double Latin cross, and its facades are broken by bays, pavilions, and porches, topped by towers and spires. Within, the great central hall is open to the glass roof, eighty feet above. In this building are the college offices, the library, the original chapel, class and lecture rooms, and laboratories ; also dormitories and a dining-room. Other buildings are Stone Hall, gift of Mrs. Valeria G. Stone of Maiden, devoted to botanical work and dormitories, on another knoll overlooking the lake ; the Farnsworth Art Building, gift of Isaac D. Farnsworth of Boston, on an eminence opposite College Hall; the Music Hall, the Memorial Chapel, gift of Miss Elizabeth G. and Mr. Clement S. Houghton of Boston ; the Chemistry Building, the " Barn," the power house of the central heating and lighting plant, and eight cottages for dormitory purposes. The main avenue winds through woodland and meadow from College Hall to the East Lodge on Wash- ington Street, the main entrance to the grounds. Wellesley College was founded by the Hon. Henry F. Durant, formerly a conspicuous member of the Massachusetts bar, who died in Wellesley in 1881, aged fifty-nine. The greater part of his fortune was devoted to its establishment as a non-sectarian institution for the purpose " of giving to young women oppor- tunities for education equivalent to those usually provided in colleges for young men." In this work he had the ardent cooperation of his wife, Mrs. Pauline Adeline (Fowle) Durant, who continues, since his death, her devotion to the work which jointly they planned. The college was chartered in 1871 and formally opened in 1875. The scheme of its founder included these features : a faculty of women and a selected board of trustees composed of both women and men, in whom the property of the college and its official control should be vested. Our car passes for nearly a mile along the northern side of the college estate, and at the farther end stands another lodge at its western entrance. NATICK AND NEEDHAM 123 NATICK AND NEEDHAM We continue along Central Street and soon cross the line into the town of Natick. At our left rises Broad's Hill, three hundred feet high ; at our right is the railroad, close alongside. We reach Natick station in fifteen minutes from Wellesley Square. The village is chiefly devoted to shoe manufacturing. Here is the Morse Institute Library, founded by the bequest of Mary Ann Morse, who died in 1862. It was dedicated on Christmas day, 1873. Here also is the former homestead of Henry Wilson, the " Natick cobbler," as he was known for many years, who rose from the shoemaker's bench to the Senate of the United States and the Vice Presidency. It is a roomy, plain house of wood, painted white, standing back a little way from the street, under majestic elms. In the square near the station is the Soldiers' Monument of the Civil War, flanked by brass siege guns. A branch trolley line runs hence to Needham, and if we desire to see more relics of the Indian apostle Eliot, we may take the car to South Natick, only a mile and a half southeast. On the way we pass over Carver Hill, two hundred and eighty feet high, whence a splendid view of the upper Charles River country is gained. In the South Natick village center was the Eliot Oak, under which, tradition says, Eliot preached his first sermon to his then newly established plantation of praying Indians, in 1650. Here he did much of his work of translating the Bible into the Indian language ; and here, in 1651, his converts built their first schoolhouse and church. Here, also, are to be seen the Eliot Monument, set up by the citizens in 1847, an( i tne headstone from the grave of Daniel Takawambait, the first native minister, set into a granite block alongside the near-by sidewalk. The Eliot Church (Unitarian) is the fifth on the site of the rude structure reared by the red men. It is a typical New England meetinghouse of the early nineteenth century. It has no connection, except by name and location, with that founded by Eliot. South Natick is said to have been the original Oldtown of Harriet Beecher Stowe's " Oldtown Folks." From here to Needham, about five miles, the route lies mostly through a smiling farming country. We cross the Charles twice within a mile, and at Charles River Village, which we pass midway, its waters drive some paper mills. Needham is a quiet, dignified village of the conven- tional type, with a fine new high-school building and one or two other public edifices of brick. Changing here to a car for Newton, a ride of a mile north brings us to Highland ville, the north village of Needham, where a Carnegie public 124 ECHO BRIDGE library has lately been raised, and where are a couple of shoe factories. Two miles farther, in a generally northeasterly direction, the trolley line again crosses the Charles River, which, since we left it at South Natick, has made divagations into Dover and Dedham, skirted West Roxbury, and has assumed a path of comparative rectitude as the boundary line between Needham and Newton. THE SOUTHERN NEWTONS The railway enters the factory village of Newton Upper Falls, and traverses several rather depressing streets in the zigzags necessary for the car to mount the lofty brownstone cliff through which the river cut its way in ages past, and at the foot of which the village nestles. It will interest us more if we leave the car just before it crosses the Rustic Bridge and Cave, Hemlock Gorge bridge and take the path, plainly marked, to the left, into Hemlock Gorge, one of the smallest but most picturesque of the Metropolitan Park Reser- vations. Its area is only about twenty-four acres, but it includes a wild, rocky chasm, through which the swift, narrow river makes its way, dense thickets, and a grand growth of old hemlocks towering over all. This park was established in 1895. At its upper end is the famous Echo Bridge, perhaps the most photographed bit of masonry in the neighbor- hood of Boston. It is a finely proportioned structure, reminding one much of the noted Cabin John Bridge near Washington, though on a smaller scale. It is the means by which the aqueduct from the Sudbury River crosses the Charles on its way to Boston. We may walk across it, enjoying the attractive outlook over the river, the falls, and the gorge. NEWTON CENTER 125 and descend by the stone stairs to the bank of the stream and try the remarkable echoes which give the bridge its name. From the northern end of the bridge a narrow plank walk between two houses brings us out to Chestnut Street, where we may again take the car, which, sweep- ing around the right, along the edge of the high cliff, gives a good view of the village at its foot. The most direct route from Boston to Echo Bridge and Hemlock Gorge is by a Boston & Worcester trolley car, which passes over the Back Bay, through Brook- line and Newton, directly to the upper end of the Gorge, where the deep, black water sweeps through the narrow chasm close beside the track. Alighting here, one can explore the reservation in a short time. By this route, also, it is a delight- ful ride to Wellesley Hills (where the line crosses that of the Natick cars by which we came out), and so on to Framingham and Worcester. Continuing a mile or so farther, in the same general direction, we cross the tracks of the New York Central Railroad, and also those of the Boston & Worcester electric railway, at the neat and busy village of Newton Highlands. All about on the swelling slopes, in attractive modern houses, dwell many of Boston's business men. Swinging around to the left into Walnut Street, our course is over a wooded eminence thickly studded with residences. Descending its farther slope, we pass on our left the Gothic arched entrance of the Newton Cemetery, one of the most beautiful, by nature and art, of any around Boston. A little farther down we see, away to our left, the great power house of the street railway system. At the Newton Boulevard, where is a commodious waiting room, one may transfer to cars for Boston or to other parts of Newton. We might take a side trip hence to Newton Center via Homer Street, but the route is not particularly attractive ; a better way to that pretty village is reached by taking a Boulevard car from Boston, and changing at Centre Street. This route passes the old burying ground of the town, where lie the first settlers, a great granite monument of modern date bearing their names. Of a later period are the graves of heroes of the French and Indian and Revolutionary wars, — Major General William Hull, Brigadier General Michael Jackson and sons, officers in the Revolu- tion, the son and namesake of the apostle Eliot, and others noted in the early annals of the town. The old first parish church formerly fronted this ground, and its first pastor was buried here in 1668. At Newton Center are many beautiful residences, and on Institution Hill stand the buildings of the Newton Theological Institution, founded by the Baptists in 1826, as a training school for the ministry. Its grounds are extensive, and the view in all directions is inspiring. Within the past 126 NEWTONVILLE few years, under the presidency of the Rev. Nathan E. Wood, D.D., much money has been added to the funds of the school, a new library, chapel, and dormitories have been built, and the whole hilltop has been laid out in most attractive landscape style. At the foot of the hill lies Crystal Lake, as the former Wiswall's Pond is known. It was named from old Elder Wiswall, in whose homestead it was included. A splen- did road around its shores is one of the attractions of "the Center." The stone Baptist church, of Romanesque architecture, is one of the finest in Boston suburbs. But our car is bound north, to Newtonville, and immediately after crossing the Boulevard we pass a forest-covered hill on the left, while to our right is a deep, shady valley, through which brawls a swift brook down rocky ridges. It is a charming section, and some of the prettiest homes of the city are along this way. One famous estate which we soon go by is Brooklawn, once the home of General Hull, of Revolu- tionary fame ; since 1854 that of ex-Governor William Claflin, who has dispensed hospitality to many distinguished guests here. Just beyond, on the left, is the stately High School ; on the other side, the Claflin School ; and again on the left, the attractive house and grounds of the Newton Club. A little farther on we come to the business center of Newtonville, where we cross the New York Central tracks and Wash- ington Street. Here change may be made for Newton proper and most of the other villages. Soon we turn into Watertown Street and pass through the village of Nonantum, where on the left are the Nonantum worsted mills ; also a tiny pond, bearing the lofty title of Silver Lake. In a few minutes, turning sharply to the right, we are in Galen Street, in the small corner of Watertown lying south of the Charles, leading to the broad new bridge, replacing an old-time one, by which we are to cross into Watertown Square. As we cross the bridge we observe granite tablets on either side. These were erected by the late Professor Eben N. Horsford, one of them to mark his Norsemen sites, — that on the left, which is inscribed "Out- look upon the stone dam and stone-walled docks and wharves of Norum- bega, the seaport of the Northmen in Vineland." The other has this inscription : " The old bridge by the mill crossed Charles River near this spot as early as 1641." WALTHAM It is but a few steps to Watertown Square, where cars from Boston and Cambridge arrive by several routes, and where we change to a car for Waltham. Our course all the way is along old Main Street, to the foot of Prospect Hill, at the terminus of the route. Here we alight WALTHAM 127 and, following the plain directions on guideboards, climb, first by the street crossing the Central Massachusetts Division of the Boston & Maine Railroad, and afterward by a winding path through the natural woodland park which the city of Waltham has made of the upper part of the hill, to its summit. From the outlook, four hundred and eighty- two feet above sea level, — the highest eminence in the Metropolitan dis- trict except the Great Blue Hill in Milton, — we may see to the north, on a clear day, as far as Kearsarge (seventy-five miles) and several other mountains of southern New Hampshire ; as well as Wachusett, Watatic, and Asnybumskit in central Massachusetts. The view embraces all the towns within a radius of twenty miles or more. In taking this noble hill and laying it out as a reservation, the city has wisely refrained from " fixing it up " or making it a " parky " affair. Its wildness and naturalness are its chief charms. Returning to Main Street, we will take a car for about a mile east, passing along the pleasant, shaded thoroughfare, to the Common, on which stands the Soldiers' Monument, and near which is the station of the Fitchburg Division, Boston & Maine Railroad. A branch of the trolley company's lines to Newton, by the Moody Street bridge, crosses the Charles Rive?' just south of the Common. On our way down from Prospect Hill, three or four blocks before reaching the Common, we pass on the left a great elm on the corner of Upper Main Street and Grant Avenue, which bears a tablet stating that General Burgoyne's army halted under its branches when on the march from Saratoga to Cambridge in 1777. That was when Burgoyne and his men, taken prisoners at Saratoga, were being escorted by their Continental captors to imprisonment on Prospect Hill, Somerville, then a part of Charlestown. One division of the prisoners came this way, through Lexington ; the other, via Weston and Newton. The great works of the American Waltham Watch Company, on the south side of the river, for Waltham includes in its limits quite a slice of trans-Charles territory, attract many visitors. These are the most extensive watch-making factories in the world, and the buildings are not only immense but are ornamental in design and surrounded by handsome grounds adorned with flower beds and shrubbery. Waltham is famous also as having been the birthplace and lifelong home of Nathaniel Prentiss Banks, " the bobbin boy " as he was called in the days of his early political successes, who became, successively and rapidly, inspector in the Boston Custom House, member of the legislature, member of constitutional con- vention, congressman and speaker of the House (after a contest lasting two months and requiring one hundred and thirty-two ballots to decide it), all 128 WATERTOWN before he was forty ; later, governor of the state, major general of volunteers in the Civil War, congressman again, and United States Marshal. On lower Main Street, near the Watertown line, we pass on the left the famous old Governor Gore house, built by Christopher Gore, friend of Washington, governor and senator of Massachusetts, and donor of the Harvard College Library, named for him Gore Hall. It is a sightly dwelling, well placed on a gentle slope overlooking the street and shaded by majestic elms. It is of brick, and in its early days was perhaps the finest of suburban residences. It is still preserved in its original char- acter by the family of the late Theophilus W. Walker, who for many years resided here. WATERTOWN We cross the boundary of Watertown and soon are at the village green, to the left, w T here the Soldiers' Monument stands, and there is a roomy playground for the children. Just beyond, the Public Library, a brick building with pillars in front, is perhaps the most noteworthy piece of modern architecture in the place. At the square in Watertown Center, the choice of three routes back into Boston is open to us : via North Beacon Street, along the river into Brighton and Allston ; via Arsenal Street and Western Avenue into Central Square, Cambridge, and across the Harvard Bridge, by which way the Charles is crossed three times ; and via Mount Auburn Street and Harvard Square, Cambridge. The first route has little to recommend it save rather pretty river views. The second is the proper way if one wishes to visit the United States Arsenal, a collection of large buildings of brick, with slate roofs, inclosed in one hundred acres of grounds, lying between Arsenal Street and the river, with a wharf and landing just below the North Beacon Street drawbridge. Here is a complete equipment of machinery, heavy and fine, for the manufacture of artillery, projectiles, and gun carriages. Permission to enter and view the works is easily obtained from the commandant's office. Close at hand also are the yards of the Water- town Cattle Market, at the station on the steam railroad known as Union Market. But the route into Boston which contains most of historic interest, as well as attractiveness of surroundings, is that by Mount Auburn Street, w T hich diverges from the square to the left of the other two. Since we have to change cars here, it will pay us to walk a few rods to Marshall Street, turning up to the left to read the tablet marking the site of the Marshall Fowle House, in which General Joseph Warren WATERTOWN 129 spent the night before the battle of Bunker Hill. James Warren, his successor as president of the Provincial Congress, afterward occupied this Fowle house, and here his wife entertained Mrs. Washington in 1775, when on her way from Mount Vernon to Cambridge in her own coach and four, with negro postilions in liveries of scarlet and white, a guard of honor, and a military escort. There was some pomp and gorgeousness even in those simple and primitive republican days. Next beyond Marshall Street (left) is Common Street, one of the most interesting points in our journey, for here is the old burying ground and churchyard of the fourth meetinghouse of the First Parish. The building itself was demolished in 1836, and its successor was placed nearer the business center of the town. In this old church, built in 1755, were held the Boston town meetings during the Siege, and here — as a massive stone tablet against the fence informs — sat the Pro- vincial Congress from April 22 to July 19, 1775; here the "Great and General Court," or Assembly, was originated and held its sessions from July 29, 1775, to November 9, 1776, and from June 2 to 23, 1778. In March, 1776, this church was selected as the one in which to hold the observance of the Boston Massacre, when the oration was delivered by the Rev. Peter Thacher of Maiden, on " The Dangerous Tendencies of Standing Armies in Times of Peace." Nearly all the way to the Cambridge line we pass pleasant estates on either side ; but our next point of historic interest is at the corner of Grove Street, on the right, where the old burying ground, dating from 1642 and originally adjoining the first meetinghouse of the settlement, lies directly on the highway, separated from it only by a low wall. In the grass-grown and vine-covered grounds are ancient gravestones of quaint design, the earliest date being 1674. Here stands a granite obelisk, presented to the town on the one hundredth anniversary of the contests at Lexington and Concord by the descendants of John Coolidge, the one Watertown man killed in the running fight with the British flank guard near Arlington Heights. Continuing toward Cambridge w T e come to Belmont Street on the left, from which, if we choose, we may walk through Coolidge Street to another of the Norse memorials marked by Professor Horsford as the amphitheater or assembly place of those earliest discoverers. It is a spacious, natural, semicircular depression in the earth, its sloping sides broken into six terraces or benches, thickly grass-grown. Returning to Mount Auburn Street we are soon by the Mount Auburn station, and here we may take a train for Boston over the Fitchburg Division of the Boston & Maine Railroad, or a trolley car for the city direct, via Harvard Square, Cambridge. 130 MILTON MILTON AND THE BLUE HILLS The quickest way to reach Milton is by a train on the Milton branch of the New York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad, leaving the South Station at twenty-three minutes past each hour and reaching Milton station in about twelve minutes. The pleasantest way is by trolley car (Ashmont and Milton) from the Subway via Mount Pleasant ; or by elevated train to Dudley Street terminal, thence by surface car to Grove Hall transfer station, and changing there to a Milton car via Washington Street, Dorchester, and Codman Hill. Taking this last-mentioned route we have a particularly fine view of the harbor and islands from the point near Melville Avenue, where the street passes over one shoulder of Mount Bowdoin. We also pass several of the pleasantest estates in Dorchester, and the old Second Parish Church (on the left at Norfolk and Centre streets), dating from 1807, a typical New England meeting- house of that period. Farther on, as our route continues over Codman Hill, past the old Codman mansion house, now a dairy farmhouse, we roll along under noble old trees and have a taste of real country air from the hillside, studded with buttercups in their season. At the village known as Milton Lower Mills, though the larger part of it is on the Boston side of the Neponset River, the Boston street-car system ends and other lines start out, — for Dedham via Hyde Park, and for Brockton via Randolph, connecting at both points with lines to other places. Whether we have come out by steam or electricity, we shall want to walk about a little here. The chief industry of the village is the manufacture of chocolate, and the great stone-trimmed brick build- ings of the Walter Baker Company cover a large space on both sides of the river and utilize its considerable water power. From the bridge one gets a view on the left of the slight falls ; and in a rock rising above the water is set a bolt bearing a tablet with an inscription recording that the tide of April 16, 1851, reached the top of the bolt. This was the famous high tide of the storm which destroyed the Minot's Ledge lighthouse, and. was six feet eight and one-half inches above the average high water, here about ten feet. Only a little way beyond the bridge, on the Milton side, — a short flight of steps up from the Milton steam railroad station brings us directly to it, — stands the "Suffolk Resolves" house, shaded by three venerable English elms, which has been called the " birthplace of Amer- ican liberty." It is a two-story yellow, double house, of which one half is now devoted to a watchmaker's shop. Beside the pillared portico a marble tablet bears an inscription in antique Roman characters, relating the history of the Suffolk Resolves, which, adopted in this mansion by MILTON HILL 131 delegates from the Suffolk County towns September 9, 1774, "led the way to American Independence." At the time of the convention the house was the mansion of Daniel Vose, the great man of the section, owner of several of the industries of the town — his chocolate mills, founded in 1765, were the first in the colonies — and a zealous patriot. The convention was composed of delegates from the nineteen towns then comprised in Suffolk County, which also included all now embraced in Norfolk County. They had held their first session in the old Woodward Tavern at Dedham a day or two before. Paul Revere was the messenger who carried the Resolves to Philadelphia. Continuing up the gentle slope of Adams Street we pass several old- time houses on either side of the road. One on the right, just where Canton and Randolph avenues branch off, was in early days the Rising Sun Tavern. Canton Avenue is the direct route by the Great Blue Hill to Canton, while Randolph Avenue cuts through the Blue Hills Reserva- tion farther south, and continues on to Randolph and Brockton. A line of trolley cars (of the Old Colony system) diverging to the right lower down the slope, at Central Avenue, skirts the base of the hill, passes through Milton Center, and comes out in Randolph Avenue before reaching the Reservation, affording an easy means of arriving at this great pleasure ground, — the largest of the Metropolitan system. But there are reasons for prolonging our walk a little farther up Milton Hill, on Adams Street. All along the way are fine old estates which have been handed down from generation to generation of fami- lies noted in local — and some in national — annals. On the left side a pleasantly situated villa is the home of Mrs. A. D. T. Whitney, though her early home, in which her first works were written, was in Milton village. A few steps beyond, on the right, stands a house of modern exterior, well back from the street, in whose fabric is incor- porated the historic house of Governor Hutchinson, his country seat. To this house he withdrew at the time of the closing anti-tea meetings in the Old South Meetinghouse in Boston ; and it was from this house that he started on his final voyage to England in June, 1774, never, as it fell out, to return. Its situation is indeed a most pleasant one, as he described it to George III, and the view which it commands across the meadow at the foot of the hill is yet an exceptionally fine prospect. It is gratifying to observe that the great field in front, on the lower side of the street, has been taken for a public reservation, as Governor Hutchinson's Field, so that the lovely prospect is safe from the obstruction of buildings. Hutchinson's vast estate was confiscated in the Revolution and was subsequently sold. Since 1829 it has been in the Russell family. 132 MILTON At the top of the hill the old Dr. Holbrook mansion, built in 1801, is noted for having been the scene of a brilliant entertainment to Lafayette during his last visit to America, in 1824. Beyond are the extensive estates so long associated with the Forbes family, — John M., the master spirit of the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy Railroad for many years ; J. Malcolm, equally noted in connection with the American Bell Telephone Company ; Captain Robert B. and J. Murray Forbes ; also the fine country seat of the late Oliver W. Peabody of the Boston banking house of Kidder, Peabody & Co. ; and farther on the summer place of his partner, the late Henry P. Kidder. At the old " Algerine Corner" — now commonplace Union Square — a road on the right diverges to the town center. At Otis Street, a little beyond, was, in provincial times, the estate of the royal governor, Jonathan Belcher, bought by him about 1 728, and his country seat during his service of about eleven years. It was he who placed along the road to Boston the Belcher milestones, one of which is to be seen in the wall of the Peabody place, bearing the legend " 8 miles to B Town House. The Lower way. 1734-" Adams Street continues through the square past East Milton, a half mile farther on, a bustling village, its trade having a granite foundation, — quite naturally, for it adjoins West Quincy, where are the quarries which give to Quincy the title of " the granite city." We might pro- long our walk to East Milton and there take a car to Quincy, only three and a half miles distant. It would be better, however, to look over the northern part of Milton and go to Quincy by another route. From Union Square, Centre Street runs " cross town " to Randolph Avenue, which we left at the beginning of our walk. By way of Centre Street a walk of some three quarters of a mile would bring us to the old Town Cemetery, where rest the forefathers of many present citizens, the oldest gravestone bearing date of 1687. The Ministerial Tomb is near the entrance, and has a quaint inscription setting forth that it is " to be, abide and remain forever " as such. The names of the first minister, Peter Thacher, who died in 1727, his wife Susanna, and several succeeding ministers and their families are inscribed on the upright slab. Near the middle of this burying ground is a monument which attracts the most attention. This is the granite bowlder over the grave of Wendell Phillips and his wife. Phillips died February 2, 1884, and his body was first placed in the Phillips family tomb in the Old Granary Burying Ground, Boston, but after the death of Mrs. Phillips, two years later, it was removed hither. The inscription on" the bowlder was written by him and it attests the simplicity and the chivalry of the man: BLUE HILLS RESERVATION *33 Ann and Wendell Phillips. Died April 24, 1886 February 2, li Aged 73. Aged 73. Passing through the burying ground we emerge near Randolph Avenue, where stands the famous old Milton Academy, founded in 1 805-1 806, and a good type of the New England academy of that epoch modernized. A little farther on, at White Street, we reach Milton Center, or Milton Churches, as this sec- tion is more generally known, the group of buildings set in the pleasant square and shaded by lofty elms. The twin chttrches, as the local title goes, are the Unitarian (succes- sor of the original First Parish Church) and the East Church (Evangeli- cal Congregational), founded in 1834, when the great schism in New England theology took place. Between them stands the Town House and at one side the high school. A fine Public Libj-ary of brick with granite trimmings is near completion close by. Here we may. take the car which has come around through Central Avenue and now makes in a southeasterly direction for Randolph Avenue, which it follows for nearly a mile before the edge of the Blue Hills Reserva- tion is reached. Through the Reservation it runs for nearly two miles. Crossing the range between Chickatawbut Hill on the left and Hancock Hill on the right, one has a fine view over much of the chain of emi- nences, Great Blue Hill, away beyond Hancock, with the weather observatory and kite-flying station on its summit, being in plain sight for a considerable distance. Observatory, Great Blue Hill 134 MATTAPAN AND THE NEPONSET From near the " twin churches " Thacher Street runs northwesterly for about a mile (past the site of the house built in 1689 by the Rev. Peter Thacher, first minister of the town) to the Blue Hill Parkway of the Metropolitan system, which leads into the western (or Great Blue) section of the Reservation. The trolley line, which funs through the parkway for a short distance, then, diverging, follows Blue Hill and Canton avenues south to Canton and Stoughton, furnishes a speedy means of reaching the Great Blue Hill. The car leaves one at a point where an easy foot path — cut through the woods from the old bridle path to the summit — emerges upon Canton Avenue. It is a pretty walk along the broad and shaded parkway to the river, which here is spanned by a new stone bridge, built by the Metropolitan Park Board. Crossing it we are in Mattapan, the most southwesterly village of the Dorchester District, Boston, whence we have a choice of ways for the return journey, — street cars via Blue Hill Avenue and Franklin Park, trains over the Milton branch from a station close by the river, or over the Midland Division, station half a mile north, at the crossing of Blue Hill Avenue. The Milton branch route takes us for two or three miles alongside, and twice across, the picturesque Neponset, whose shores are now protected by the Metropolitan Board, and amid whose wooded nooks one catches a glimpse of a rustic footbridge and the sheen of a little waterfall. QUINCY Quincy is quite easy of access either by train or trolley. By train from the South Station (Plymouth Division, New York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad) the distance is eight miles and the fare fifteen cents. By electric car from Washington and Franklin streets to Neponset Bridge, or by the Ashmont and Milton line to Field's Corner, there transferring to the Neponset car, — and from Neponset Bridge to Quincy, — the distance is about the same, and the fare is ten cents. By either way the route is similar, — out through South Boston and the bay side of the Dorchester District to the village of Neponset at the mouth of the river (after crossing which we are in the bounds of the city of Quincy), but a short distance from the station and village of Atlantic, after which follow Norfolk Downs, Wollaston, and Quincy Center, — all within three miles. The tracks of the steam and electric roads run parallel and close to each other most of the way. Arrived at Quincy, all the places of historic interest are within a short radius. Right at the square, where the trolley line connects with other lines for the Weymouths, Brockton, and elsewhere, and within a gunshot QUINCY "35 of the railroad station, stands the "Granite Temple," as the present First Parish Church, built in 1828, is called, from a phrase in the will of John Adams, who, in leaving to the town certain granite quarries, enjoined upon his townsmen to build " a temple " to receive his remains. His injunction was well obeyed. The structure, with its front Doric pillars supporting a pediment and square tower with colonnaded belfry crowned by a dome, is a good specimen of the architecture of the first half of the nineteenth century. Its interior is dignified. The mural monuments here commemorate the two Presidents of the Adams family and their wives, and the tablets are to the memory of John Wheel- wright, the first minister, banished for " heresy " with Coddington, Anne Hutchinson, and others, and to other later pastors. In the basement beneath the church are the tombs of the two Presidents and their wives in granite sarcophagi. Application to the sexton and the payment of a modest fee prescribed by the church enables the visitor to descend into the electrically lighted vault and, through a doorway protected by a grille, to gaze upon the tombs. On either side of the doorway are inscriptions on marble tablets. The body of the ancient black hearse in which the remains of the Presidents were conveyed is also preserved in this basement in a glass case. Across the way from the church is the granite City Hall, and close by is the old burying ground where are the graves of the early min- isters of the parish, among them John Hancock, father of the famous "signer" and governor; the tombs of Dr. Leonard Hoar, third presi- dent of Harvard College, and his wife and mother; of Henry Adams, immigrant ancestor of the Adams family ; of John Quincy Adams, in which his body was placed before removal to the church opposite ; of the first of the Quincys — Edmond ; and of Josiah Quincy, Jr., who at thirty-one years of age died, in 1775, on the ship which was bringing him back from his mission to England in behalf of the patriots. Near by, on Washington Street, is the fine Crane Public Library, and not far away, on Hancock Street, the Adams Academy, founded by a gift to the town in 1822 by President John Adams, and opened in 1872 — a Home of Dorothy Quincy 136 ADAMS FAMILY classical school of high order. On Adams Street, which diverges to the west and continues through to West Quincy and Milton, stands the famous Adams mansion, originally the country seat of Leonard Vassall, a West Indian planter and a royalist like all of his name. Sequestered in the Revolution, it became the home of President John Adams from 1787 till his death. In it were celebrated his golden wedding and the weddings of his son, President John Quincy Adams, and of his grand- son, Charles Francis Adams, Sr., once minister to Great Britain. It is now occupied by the great-grandson, Brooks Adams, and much of the interior finish and furniture is retained. On Hancock Street, facing Bridge Street, is the old Quincy mansion house, containing some part of the original dwelling of Edmond Quincy, built about 1634, and dating itself from 1705. Here was bom Dorothy Quincy, the original of Dr. Holmes's poem, "Dorothy Q.," whose granddaughter was the poet's mother. Another Dorothy Quincy, descendant of the first, was the wife of John Hancock. From the square, in a southeastern Birthplace of John Adams direction, we walk or take a Brockton car past the old burial ground of Christ Church, Braintree (the present city of Quincy was part of Braintree from 1640 to 1792), in whose grass-grown mounds repose many of the early settlers. At the corner of Independence Street and Franklin Avenue the car passes two time-stained houses standing close together, restored and maintained as sacred memorials, to which the attention of more visitors is turned than to any other buildings in Quincy. The older and smaller house is the birthplace of John Adams. The other and larger house, with the old well sweep in the back yard, is the birthplace of John Quincy Adams. It was presented by the present Hon. Charles Francis Adams to the Quincy Historical Society, which has restored it to its original condition and made it a museum of historic relics. Much of the early history of the Massachusetts Bay Colony is related to this old town, notably Mount Wollaston, the high ground at the next station on the way into Boston. It was the " Merrymount " of Thomas Morton, whose revels with his crew of graceless roysterers and his may- pole, set up in 1627, caused his banishment by the stern Puritan elders. The zealous antiquarian might spend days in tracing out the historic sites and in viewing the historic mansions of Quincy. DEDHAM 137 DEDHAM Dedham is one of the oldest of the suburban towns, and was at first one of the most extensive. Its territory, allotted by the General Court in 1635 to twenty-two proprietors, who had moved hither from Water- town and Roxbury a few months before, embraced nearly all of the pres- ent Norfolk County. In August they had signed a " town covenant " binding them to "walk in a peaceful conversation" and to establish "a loving and comfortable society." The name they proposed for their settlement was Contentment. The General Court, however, overruled their choice and gave the new parish the title of Dedham from the English town whence several of the settlers had come. It is a quiet, dignified old town, with majestic trees shading its streets, many old man- sions, and picturesque river views. The Charles River, with its " Great Bend," encircles the northern end of the town, and the Neponset River is on its eastern border. The two streams are connected by " Mother Brook," the oldest canal in the country, dug by the enterprising colo- nists in 1 639-1 640. Several lofty hills break the surface of the town, and there are beautiful drives and trolley rides in several directions — notably to Westwood (formerly West Dedhar , three miles from the center. The main street is High Street, running nearly east and west through the village and then turning off sharply to the southwest on its way to Westwood and Medway. Along this street are scattered most of the historic monuments. We reach Dedham by train over the Providence Division, New York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad (though we could go in an electric car from Forest Hills), and alight at the stone station, with its imposing clock tower, at the center of the village. One block away is the granite Memorial Hall, serving the double purpose of a town house and a monument to the soldiers of the town who served in the Civil War. On the corner of Church Street, next above, is the low-arched brick building of the Dedham Historical Society, with an interesting col- lection of antiquities and documents. On the right-hand side of High Street, a little farther on, is the old Dr. Nathaniel Ames house, the home of the famous almanac maker from 1772 to his death, fifty years later. Just beyond stood till 1897 the Fisher Ames house, the home of Nathaniel's distinguished brother. This is now removed to River Place, and with enlargements and improvements has become the home of Frederick J. Stimson, author and lawyer. On the next street at the right, Ames Street, is the site of the old Wood- ward Tavern, dating from 1658, where met the Suffolk Convention in 1774, which at its adjourned meeting in the Vose mansion at Milton 138 COURT HOUSE AND FAIRBANKS HOUSE adopted the Suffolk Resolves. Just above Ames Street on High Street is the mansion house built in 1795 by Judge Samuel Haven, in front of which are several stately English elms brought from England in 1762, still vigorous and full of foliage. Opposite is the granite Court House, surmounted by a dome, for Dedham is the shire town of Norfolk County. Next beyond the Court House is the ancient Village Green, in the corner of which stands the locally famous "Pitt's Head," or Pillar of Liberty, a square granite pedestal about two feet high, which formerly was surmounted by a tall w r ooden column and a bust of William Pitt. It was erected July 22, 1767. A bronze tablet on its eastern face, placed in 1886, on the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the town, gives its history. At the upper end of the Green stands the Unitarian Church, built in 1763, the third in succession from the original parish meetinghouse built in 1638. Just across High Street is the First Congregational Church, also ancient and, like the other, in the conventional Wren style. Along both sides of the street for some distance are houses mostly dating from the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries, very comfortable looking, with their ample lawns shaded by great elms. Two objects of special historic interest are easily reached by a short walk from the center. Along Eastern Avenue, which runs south from the railroad station and curves around through rows of water willows to East Street, is the way to the Fairbanks house, one of the oldest houses in the country. It w T as built about 1650 by Jonathan Fairbanks, to whom the lands surrounding it were allotted in 1637. In 1896 it was purchased by Mrs. J. Amory Codman and daughter of Boston, to save it from destruction. Previous to that time it had always been owned by a Fairbanks. In 1903 the " Fairbanks Family in America " being incor- porated, acquired the property to be kept permanently in the family as an historic home. The other historic relic, only a short distance from the Fairbanks house, is the " Avery oak." It is a great tree, older than the town, with a circumference, five feet from the ground, of sixteen feet. Its owner at the time is said to have refused seventy dollars for it from the Old Fairbanks House WINTHROP 139 builders of the Constitution, who desired it for timber for " Old Iron- sides." It is still sturdy and thrifty. It has been secured for preservation by the Dedham Historical Society. WINTHROP AND REVERE Winthrop alone among the northern suburbs of Boston is without a trolley line, and that it has none is due to the excellent service afforded by the Winthrop circuit of the Boston, Revere Beach & Lynn Railroad. The ferry house and station of this railroad are at Rowe's Wharf, directly opposite the elevated railway station of the same name. The ferryboats leave every fifteen minutes daily, connecting with trains at Jeffries Point, on the East Boston side of the harbor; and the fare to any of the nine stations in Winthrop is but five cents. The line makes a loop around the town, reaching every section of it, and the trains alternate in direction. Winthrop is an ancient settlement but a comparatively modern town. For nearly a century after the first settlement its territory belonged to Boston, but in 1739 it became a part of Chelsea. In 1846 it was joined to Revere (the Rumney Marsh of early days) to form the new town of North Chelsea. It became an independent town six years later, taking the name of Winthrop in commemoration of Deane Winthrop, sixth son of Governor John Winthrop, who lived here for many years in a house still preserved, and here died about 1703 or 1704, aged 81. The first name of the hamlet was Pullen Poynt, but the year 1753 saw the establishment of a codfishery station at the extreme eastern end, and the " syndicate " which promoted that enterprise rechristened the place Point Shirley, from the governor of the Province. The fishery " trust " proved a failure, but Point Shirley was found to be so pleasant that a number of Boston families built coun- try houses here, the Hancocks among the rest. A roomy brick house still standing at this point of the town, which retains the name of Point Shirley, is by some assumed to have been John Hancock's house, but this is doubtful. In later days the present Point Shirley became noted through " Taft's," a hostelry famous for its fish and game dinners, now only a memory. Until about 1876 Winthrop remained a slumbrous farm- ing town within five miles of the city across the harbor but known only to the few. Then it was rediscovered, and the building of the narrow- gauge railroad made it easy of access. With the advent of this railroad a beach settlement was laid out, streets with nautical names were cut through, and lots were sold off. A colony of summer cottages sprang up in a season or two, and " Ocean Spray " and " Cottage Hill " became 140 WINTHROP BEACH familiar names. In course of time substantial houses to a large extent replaced the shells first erected ; a beautiful, broad boulevard, with walks on each side, was built by the Metropolitan Parks Commission along the ocean front where had been a town way known as " The Crest " (destroyed by a gale in November, 1898) ; and the old farms of the inland part of the town became thickly covered with residences. The fine half-moon sweep of the Winthrop Beach, something more than a half mile in length, is crowned at either end by a high bluff : that to the seaward, the Great Head of old, now trivially named " Cottage Hill " ; and that at the north- ern end, Grover's Cliff, now occupied by Fort Heath, a strong work, mounting several twelve-inch rifled guns, which was rushed to completion during the Span- ish war. Inland a little way is Fort Banks, with its sixteen breech-loading mor- tars and an extensive group of buildings, sufficient for a large army post. On the eastern side of Ciystal Bay, which almost isolates the beach section from the " old town," is the Winthrop Yacht Clubhouse. The railroad loop crosses this bay by a long bridge with a draw at the channel. One may spend an afternoon pleasantly by taking a train to Winthrop Center and walking over to the harbor side of the town. Along Pleasant and Sargent streets and Court Park Road is probably the most agreeable course, making the circuit of Court Park (so named in honor of Judges George B. Loring and John Lowell, who formerly owned the whole area now laid out in house lots), where are the Winthrop Golf Club's links, and continuing through Pleasant Street along the harbor front to the station just beyond Main Street, taking here a train to Winthrop Beach. From this point Cottage Hill may be climbed for the view of the town, the bay, and the harbor. A walk along Winthrop Beach naturally follows, with the surf pounding on the right, and off beyond it the outer island, Nahant, to the north, and the open sea in view, with a glimpse occasionally of a steamer coming in. Near the upper end of the beach we should turn off and pass through Neptune Avenue and Shirley Street (the latter the old county road), by the Ocean Spray station of the railroad, to the old Deane Winthrop house on the right, marked by a tablet. A few steps farther Winthrop Boulevard REVERE BEACH RESERVATION 141 to the intersection of Revere Street, and we are at the entrance of Fort Banks, the saluting battery, the brick hospital, and the command- ant's headquarters. We may follow Revere Street up a moderate slope to Summit Avenue, and taking this street to the right we shall get other fine views, while about us is picturesque Winthrop Highlands, as this section of the town is called. It is but a few steps down the east- ern end of Summit Avenue and along Crest Avenue (to the left) to the Highlands station. Here 'we may take the next Boston-bound train back to Orient Heights (as soon as we cross Belle Isle inlet we are on Breed's Island, the newer part of East Boston), and at this station change to a train passing over the main line for Crescent Beach at the lower end of the famous Revere Beach. On the way we pass the station at Beach- mont at the foot of a fine hill thickly covered with houses, the other side of which we have seen from Summit Avenue, Winthrop Highlands. At Crescent Beach the railroad is but a few rods back from the great beach boulevard of the Metropolitan Parks System, which extends along the ocean front for two miles with its splendid roadway and broad promenades on either side. The Revere Beach Reservation embraces the whole length of the beach to the Point of Pines, at the mouth of Saugus River. Near the middle of its length is an ornate band stand, and near its northern end the great State Bath House (the rail- road has a station just at the rear of the Bath House), from which on Labor Day, 1902, 8721 persons went into the water, the total for the season being 113,783. The boys' bath room will accommodate five hundred boys at a time. All along the shore side of the boulevard are various amusement places, — the steeplechase, the roller coaster, elec- tric boats on a small lake, refreshment booths and restaurants, tintype galleries, and all the paraphernalia of a modern seaside resort for the people. Perfect order is preserved by the Metropolitan Park police. On a warm afternoon and evening the visitors are numbered by scores of thousands, and the driving along the superb roadway makes an interesting pageant. From the southern end of the Reservation the Revere Beach Parkway extends nearly five and a quarter miles west to the lower end of Med- ford, where it joins the Fellsway, leading north to the Middlesex Fells. The electric cars of the Boston & Northern system run through the turfed center of this parkway — till the Revere station of the Boston & Maine Railroad is reached, and there the Parkway crosses the tracks overhead. At the Revere station they take a more direct route via Winthrop Avenue and Beach Street, through Revere Center to Fenno's Corner, whence they turn sharply off to the left into Broadway and so through Chelsea into Boston. 142 CHELSEA Much of the history of Revere has been identical with that of Win- throp, as we have seen. Up to 1852, when the latter town set up for itself, they had been associated municipally from the very first. In 1871 the name of North Chelsea was changed to Revere. With the excep- tion of its beach section and the bold drumlin now covered by the semi- summer-resort settlement of Beachmont, it is a quiet town, still largely devoted to farming, with the scattered homes of old families. On the way inward through Broadway, before we cross Snake or Mill Creek, which lies partly in the Parkway, we may see off to the left the old Yeaman house, built about 1680, a typical farmhouse of the early days, with its gambrel roof and lean-to. CHELSEA When we cross Snake Creek we are in Chelsea, which in 1634 was made a part of Boston by one of those terse, phonetic orders of the General Court, so much more definite than the long-drawn " acts " of our modern legislatures, that " Wynetsemt shall belong to Boston." Chelsea has numerous attractive features. Within its limits is the fine curving eminence of Powderhorn Hill, which we reach on our right and may ascend by a direct avenue from Broadway. The spreading building on its summit is the Massachusetts Soldiers' Home, originally erected for a summer hotel. From the pleasant lawn and long shaded verandas of this institution, where the broken soldiers of the Civil War sit and smoke their pipes through the long summer afternoons, one may look far down the harbor and well-nigh all over the city below. From the top of the old reservoir near by the view takes in the Mystic marshes and the whole sweep of hills bounding the Boston Basin. To the northwest of Powderhorn, and lying mostly in Everett, is Mount Washington, reached by Washington Avenue, through which trolley cars run, and to which we may cross through Summit and Win- throp avenues at the west end of Powderhorn. Turning into Wash- ington Avenue to the right, a few steps bring us to Washington Park, maintained by the Chelsea Park Commission. Set into the park wall is a large flat stone bearing this legend : This stone, once a doorstep of the old Pratt mansion visited by Washington during the siege of Boston, stands opposite the barrack-grounds of Colonel Gerrish's regiment of *775-7b- Another landmark of earlier date is the Way-Ireland house, — in later years the Pratt family homestead, — in which Increase Mather was in hiding for a time before he sailed for England in April, 1688, as agent SOMERVILLE, MEDFORD, AND MALDEN 143 for the colonists, to intercede with the king against the oppressions of Andros. It stands near the foot of this hill, just off Washington Avenue, which winds to the right and continues to Woodlawn Cemetery. Returning by a Washington Avenue car down Broadway and, if we choose, into Boston through the Charlestown District, we shall cross the Eastern Division of the Boston & Maine just beside the Chelsea station. Near by is Union Park, in which stands the Chelsea Soldiers' Monument. At Bellingham Square, where we turn into Broadway, we take a course directly southwest to the bridge over the Mystic into Charlestown. As we near the bridge we see on our right the extensive grounds occupied by the United States Naval Hospital and the Marine Hospital, the former for sick and disabled officers and men of the navy, the latter for invalids of the merchant marine. The grounds are sightly, sloping to the river and shaded by ancient trees. On the farther end of the tract, where the Island End River joins the Mystic River, is the site of Samuel Maverick's fortified house, built in 1624-1625. Maverick described it as having "a Pillizado fflankers and gunnes both below and above in them which awed the Indians," and no wonder. It was here that Maverick entertained Governor Winthrop and his associate leaders on their first coming in 1630. Maverick afterward removed to Noddle's Island, now East Boston. SOMERVILLE, MEDFORD, AND MALDEN It is a pleasant trip to Medford, by the way of Somerville, with much historic interest. Taking an elevated train to the Sullivan Square ter- minal, and there changing to a Highland Avenue car, a fifteen minutes' ride will bring us to Central Square, at the eastern end of Prospect Hill. This hill is historic as the site of the citadel, the most formidable works in the American lines during the Siege of Boston, and as the place where the Union flag with its thirteen stripes was first hoisted, January 1, 1776. These facts are related upon a tablet which stands on the present top of the hill, with the exception of one small point fifteen feet or so lower now than at that time. On its long summit General Putnam made his headquarters after the battle of Bunker Hill, and here also during the winter of 1 777-1 778 were quartered the British troops captured at Saratoga with Burgoyne. The point left uncut is now reserved in a park, and an observatory is to be built on its summit. Central Hill beyond, over which our car soon passes, is also associated with the Revolution. Its summit is an open, parklike space, at the easterly end of which is observed a miniature redoubt with cannon mounted. This is intended to mark the site of French's Redoubt 144 TUFTS COLLEGE thrown up after the battle of Bunker Hill, which became a part of the besieging lines of Boston. In this highland common are grouped a series of public buildings, — the City Hall, the Public Library, the High School, and the English High School. On Winter Hill, northward, stood another Continental fort, and the chief one, - connected with the Central Hill battery and the citadel on Prospect Hill by a line of earthworks. Near the foot of Central Hill, in a well-preserved old house marked by a tablet, are seen the head- quarters of General Charles Lee during the Siege. Over on Spring Hill, to the west, Lord Percy's artillery for a time covered the retreat of his tired infantry on that memorable 19th of April. On Willow Avenue near Davis Square, West Somerville, a tablet records a sharp fight at this point, and marks graves of British soldiers here. At Davis Square we leave the car and walk through Elm Street, which curves to the right, to the junction of College Avenue, Broadway, and Powderhouse Avenue. Here, in a little park, stands the picturesque as well as historic Old Powder House, a tower with conical top, thirty feet high and about twenty feet in diameter at the ground, with thick walls of brick, and barred doorway and window. It was first a mill, built about 1 703-1 704, and became a Province powder house in 1747. On September 1, 1774, General Gage seized the 250 half -barrels of gun- powder stored within it and thereby provoked the great assembly of the following day on Cambridge Common. In 1775 it became the magazine of the American army besieging Boston. To the northwest from this park it is but a few minutes' walk through College Avenue to the pleasant grounds of Tufts College, which covers nearly all of College Hill and commands a wide and charming prospect of the surrounding country. Just beyond the railroad station (South- ern Division, Boston & Maine) we enter Professors Row, which follows the curve of the hill to the left, and pass the houses of President Capen and others of the faculty ; also Metcalf Hall, a dormitory for women students. To the right, on the crest of the hill, reached by a broad walk under lofty elms, stand the chief buildings of the college : Ballou Hall, the oldest ; the noteworthy Goddard Chapel, of stone, with a hundred-foot campanile; the Barnum Museum of Natural History, built and endowed by the famous showman and containing among other things the skeleton of the great elephant Jumbo ; the Goddard Gymnasium ; East and West Halls, dormitories ; the Library and the two Divinity School buildings, Miner Hall and Paige Hall. On the other side of College Avenue, near the entrance by which we came, are the WINCHESTER 145 Commons building, the Chemical Building, and the Bromfield-Pearson School ; these last two being part of the technical school plant. From the college grounds it is a pleasant walk to Main Street, Medford, through College Avenue and Stearns Street. On Main Street, between George and Royall Streets, we come upon a most interesting relic of Provincial days. This is the Royall mansion house, built by Colonel Isaac Royall in 1738. An earlier house on its site, erected before 1690 it is said, was utilized in its construction. A building at one side was originally the slave quarters, the only structure of its kind remaining in Massachusetts. In 1775 the mansion was the headquarters of Stark's division of the Continental army. It is now occupied by the Sarah Bradlee Fulton Chapter, D. A. R., and is open to visitors for a modest fee. Another relic of an earlier period cherished here is the Craddock house, said to date from 1634, and so entitled to the distinction of being the oldest existing house in the country. It stands some distance down the Mystic River side, on Riverside Avenue, toward East Medford. Opposite it, on the other side of the river, — the Somerville (Winter Hill) side, — lay Governor Winthrop's Ten Hills Farm. In Medford Square electric cars can be taken for Maiden, Melrose, and Everett in one direction, and for Winchester, Woburn, and Lowell in another. Forest Street is a Medford entrance to the Middlesex Fells. Across to Maiden is an agreeable ride. The route passes the Mid- dlesex Fells Parkway, a Maiden entrance to the southeasterly section of the Fells, the most romantic part of the Reservation. As it nears the finish the parkway widens into Fellsmere, a small park with pleas- ing landscape features. In Maiden Center is the Public Library and Art Gallery, noteworthy as one of the best examples of the work of the architect H. H. Richardson in public buildings. Winchester Winchester, which touches the western side of the Fells, is one of the most picturesque towns of the metropolitan region. Its natural beauty in wooded hill and vale, river and lake (the Mystic ponds), is unusual, and this has been to a great extent worthily retained in the building up of the town. It is next to Brookline, perhaps, in richness of possessions and as a favored residential place for substantial business and profes- sional men of Boston. It has a few large country seats, some old-time family mansions, and a great variety of tasteful houses of modern build. It is connected with Medford and Arlington by electric lines, and so with Boston ; but the more direct connection is by railroad (Boston & Maine, North Station). 146 PUBLIC PARKS III. PUBLIC PARKS BOSTON CITY SYSTEM Boston Common, 48I acres. Central District. Bounded by Tremont, Park, Beacon, Charles, and Boylston streets. Public Garden, 24^ acres. Edge of Back Bay District. Bounded by Charles, Beacon, Arlington, and Boylston streets. Commonwealth Avenue Parkway. Back Bay District, middle of Com- monwealth Avenue from Arlington Street to entrance of Back Bay Fens. Back Bay Fens, 115 acres. Back Bay District, from the Charles River to beginning of Riverway. Reached by any Beacon Street car, alighting at Charlesgate ; or from Massachusetts Avenue at Com- monwealth Avenue by a walk of three minutes. Riverway, 40 acres. Back Bay District and boundary between Boston and Brookline. Reached by Huntington Avenue car, alighting at Tremont entrance, near the Gardner Museum ; or by same car at Leverett Park ; or b} Ipswich Street and Brookline Avenue car, alighting at Audubon Road. Leverett Park, 60 acres. Joins Riverway on the south. Boundary between Roxbury District and Brookline. Reached by Hunting- ton Avenue car or by any Brookline Village car (two minutes' walk from Village Square). (This park included in Olmsted Park, 1903.) Jamaicaway. (Now also part of Olmsted Park.) Connects Leverett Park with Jamaica Park. Mostly in West Roxbury District. Walk of three quarters of a mile from Huntington Avenue car. Jamaica Park, 120 acres. (Now included in Olmsted Park.) Jamaica Plain, West Roxbury District. Jamaica Pond occupies most of its area. Reached by Jamaica Plain car from the Subway (and short walk), or by train on Providence Division, New York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad, to Jamaica Plain station, and thence by a walk of ten minutes via Green, Myrtle, and Pond streets. Arborway, 36 acres. Connecting Jamaica Park with the Arnold Arbore- tum, and the latter, in turn, with Franklin Park. Arnold Arboretum and Bussey Park, 223 acres. West Roxbury District, continuing the system southward from Jamaica Park. Fine trees and shrubs. Reached most conveniently by train on Providence Division, New York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad, to Forest Hills station ; or by street car to Forest Hills, either via Jamaica PUBLIC PARKS 147 Plain (from Subway), or via elevated train to Dudley Street terminal, and then by surface car via Washington Street to Forest Hills. West Roxbury Parkway, 150 acres. West Roxbury District, connect- ing the Arnold Arboretum with the Stony Brook Reservation of the Metropolitan Parks System. Franklin Park, 527 acres. Between Roxbury, West Roxbury, and Dorchester districts. Reached by Cross-Town car to Grove Hall transfer station, and thence by Blue Hill Avenue car to main entrance opposite Columbia Road ; or by elevated train to Dudley Street terminal, thence by surface car to Grove Hall transfer sta- tion, and Blue Hill Avenue car, as above. From the entrance wagonettes take parties of visitors around an extensive tour of the park for twenty-five cents each. Franklin Field, 77 acres. Dorchester District. Its nearest corner is separated from one corner of Franklin Park only by Blue Hill Avenue, cars traversing that avenue being the direct way to it. Chiefly used for baseball and other outdoor sports. Dorchester Park, 26 acres. Near Milton Lower Mills, Dorchester Dis- trict. A natural park, very rocky and thickly wooded. Directly reached by any Ashmont and Milton car. The pleasantest way is via Grove Hall transfer station, Washington Street, and Codman Hill, Dorchester. Dorchesterway, 6 acres. Dorchester District, connecting Franklin Park and the Strandway, via Columbia Road. Strandway, 260 acres. South Boston. Borders the shore of Old Harbor, extending to the Marine Park at City Point. Marine Park (including Castle Island), 288 acres. South Boston. Bath- ing beach with city bath house ; long pier extending out into the harbor, with drawbridge connecting it with Castle Island (here is Fort Independence, now disused) and a breakwater opposite, form- ing a pleasure bay for small boats. Reached by South Boston car from Washington Street or from Park Square. Wood Island Park, 211 acres. Harbor side of East Boston, toward Governor's Island. Public bathing houses, gymnasiums, and out- door sports of various kinds. Attractive landscape architecture. Reached by train on Boston, Revere Beach & Lynn Railroad, every fifteen minutes, from Rowe's Wharf (elevated railway station opposite) to Wood Island station. Charlestown Heights, 10 acres. Charlestown District. Summit of Bunker Hill, overlooking the Mystic River. North End Beach and Copp's Hill Terraces, 7 acres. North End. Bathing beach and playground for children. Reached by Atlantic 148 METROPOLITAN SYSTEM Avenue elevated train to Battery Street station, or by East Bos- ton or Chelsea Ferry surface car to Atlantic Avenue (short walk). Just above the terraces is the historic Copp's Hill Burying Ground. Charlesbank, 10 acres. West End. Lies along the Charles River from Craigie's Bridge to West Boston Bridge. Open-air gymnasium and playgrounds. Attractively laid out and affording fine views of the lower Charles. Reached most conveniently by Cambridge car from Park Square via Charles Street, or from Bowdoin Square. Rogers Park, 69 acres. Brighton District. Reached by Newton car via Allston and Brighton, alighting at Lake Street (short walk). Chestnut Hill Park, 42 acres. Brighton District. Surrounding the Chestnut Hill Reservoir. Beautiful grounds, trees, and shrubs ; fine driveway and footpath ; woods and rocks. Reached by New- ton Boulevard car to Lake Street transfer station ; also by Reservoir cars to end of route (short walk). Besides the city parks mentioned above there are many public pleas- ure grounds in various parts of the city which are not under the juris- diction of the Boston Park Commissioners but under that of the superintendent of public grounds. The Common and Public Garden, indeed, belong to his domain, but as an essential and initial part of the park system they are included in the above table. A number of playgrounds, provided with simple outdoor gymnastic apparatus and with ball grounds and tennis courts laid out, are provided in several sections of the municipality, and are fully improved during the open months. METROPOLITAN SYSTEM Nantasket Beach Reservation, 24.51 acres. Hull. Splendid bathing. Reached by Nantasket steamer from Rowe's Wharf (Atlantic Avenue elevated station opposite), or by train on New York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad to Nantasket Junction ; thence by Nantasket Branch (electric) to the beach. Quincy Shore, 37.97 acres. Quincy. Along the shore of Quincy Bay. Blue Hills Reservation, 4857.96 acres. Milton, Quincy, Braintree, Randolph, and Canton. Includes the higher portion of the Blue Hill range. Wild rocky heights ; widespreading views in all direc- tions. Reached by train on the Milton Branch, New York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad, to Milton ; then by trolley car for Brockton, via Randolph Avenue, to the edge of the Reservation. Neponset River Banks, 926.41 acres. Boston, Hyde Park, Dedham, Westwood, Milton, and Canton. METROPOLITAN SYSTEM 149 Stony Brook Reservation, 463.72 acres. Boston and Hyde Park. Densely wooded hills ; Muddy Pond ; fine driveways. Reached by trolley car for Dedham from Forest Hills. Charles River Banks, 563.20 acres. Boston, Cambridge, Watertown, Waltham, Weston, Newton, and Wellesley. Beaver Brook and Waverley Oaks Reservation, 58.35 acres. Belmont and Waltham. Contains the famous old oak trees and a pictur- esque brook (subject of Lowell's " Beaver Brook "), with ponds and waterfall. Reached by Waverley car from Subway or by train on Boston & Maine Railroad (Fitchburg or Central Massachusetts divi- sions) to Waverley station (short walk). Hemlock Gorge Reservation, 23.10 acres. Newton and Needham. The Charles River cuts its way here through a narrow, deep gorge shaded with fine old trees. Echo Bridge is across the river above the gorge, — a symmetrical piece of masonry, with a won- derful echo beneath it. Reached by car via Newton, or by Boston & Worcester (electric) car via Boylston Street, Brookline ; also by train (Newton Circuit, New York Central) to Newton Upper Falls. Middlesex Fells, 1882.95 acres. Maiden, Melrose, Stoneham, Medford, and Winchester. Beautifully diversified scenery, — hills, ponds, brooks, ledges, and forest ; splendid walks and drives. Reached by elevated train to Sullivan Square terminal, thence by surface car to Maiden, or to Medford, or to Winchester via Medford, or to Mel- rose ; or by train on Boston & Maine Railroad (Western Division) to Wyoming Station. Mystic River Banks, 289.44 acres. Somerville, Medford, and Arlington. Winthrop Shore Reservation, 16.73 acres. Winthrop extends along the ocean front for about a mile. A broad boulevard with side- walks on both sides. Fine views of the ocean, Nahant, and the outer islands. Reached by train every fifteen minutes on Win- throp Branch, Boston, Revere Beach & Lynn Railroad, from Rowe's Wharf (elevated railway station opposite) to Winthrop Beach, Shirley, or Ocean Spray stations. Nantasket Beach i5° METROPOLITAN SYSTEM Revere Beach Reservation, 67.44 acres. Revere. A broad boulevard with walks extending along the ocean for about two miles. State bath house, band stand, refreshment houses, and a great variety of amusements. The beach superb and the bathing excellent. Reached by train every fifteen minutes on the main line of the Boston, Revere Beach & Lynn Railroad from Rowe's Wharf, or by trolley car from the Subway (Scollay Square, Adams Square, or Haymarket Square stations), via Charlestown, Chelsea, and Revere. King's Beach and Lynn Shore Reservation, 10.81 acres. Swampscott and Lynn. Along the ocean front of the northern part of Lynn and the southern shore of Swampscott. Reached by trains to Lynn and trolley cars for Swampscott through Ocean Street. Lynn Woods, Free Public Forest, 2000 acres. Comprising woodland of great natural beauty, maintained by the Lynn Park Commission. The second largest munici- pal pleasure ground in the United States. Three main entrances: one to the Great Woods Road; second, to Dungeon Rock, on Wal- nut Street — both these reached by electric cars properly marked, from the square in Lynn at the central railroad station ; the third or western entrance, from the old Reading road to Walden Pond — most convenient for carriages and bicycles from Boston and suburbs. Hart's Hill, 23.9 acres. Wakefield. Reached by trains on Boston & Maine Railroad (Western Division) to Wakefield, or by trolley car from Sullivan Square terminal of the elevated railway via Maiden and Melrose. m;.i if . /'"""- ; X , '4 |g^|^ k--- : - "f fPjHSy 1 V A _ ^.vHn Rustic Bridge and Waterfall, Middlesex Fells PARKWAYS 151 Governor Hutchinson Field. Milton. Part of the estate of the royal governor in the years immediately preceding the Revolution. Fine view of the Neponset River and its meadows, Boston city and harbor, and Massachusetts Bay. Reached by train or trolley car to Milton Lower Mills, and walk of ten minutes through Adams Street. PARKWAYS Furnace Brook, 3.326 miles in length. Quincy. Blue Hills, 2.280 miles. Boston and Milton. Neponset River, 1.120 miles. Hyde Park and Milton. West Roxbury, 1.510 miles. Boston, West Roxbury District. Fresh Pond, .520 mile. Cambridge. Middlesex Fells, 4.605 miles. Maiden, Medford, Somerville. Mystic Valley, 2.900 miles. Medford, Winchester. Revere Beach, 5.240 miles. Revere, Chelsea, Everett, Medford. Lynnway, .690 mile. Revere, Lynn. Nahant Beach, 2.230 miles. Nahant. 152 ARLINGTON IV. DAY TRIPS FROM BOSTON LEXINGTON AND CONCORD Lexington is reached from Boston by electric car via Arlington, or by train, Boston & Maine Railroad, North Station. Concord is also reached by both electric and steam cars. To include both places in a single trip there is a choice of routes : one wholly by trolley car, another partly by trolley and partly by steam car (from Lexington to Concord), a third wholly by train. The route wholly by electrics is by an Arlington Heights car, passing along Massachusetts Avenue through Cambridge and Arlington, to the Lexington town line ; thence by a Boston and Lex- ington electric car, through East Lexington to Lexington Center, by the historic green ; thence to Concord by way of Bedford, finishing in the main square of the town. To reach Concord directly from Boston the usual and by far the quickest way is to take the steam railroad. There are two routes, — one by the Fitchburg Division of the Boston & Maine, the other by the Southern Division, the latter being the line which comes through Lexington. The trolley-car route to Lexington passes numerous historic points in Arlington (the early Menotomy, later West Cambridge), all associated with the affair of the 19th of April, 1775. Before the town line is reached the visitor must needs be on the lookout for tablets. In North Cambridge (Cambridge station on the near-by railroad) is the first one. This stands just above the church beyond " Porter's," the old hotel, a relic of past days. It marks a point where four Americans were killed by British soldiers on the retreat. Two miles and more beyond, after a brick car house is passed and the railroad crossed, the next tab- let may be seen, on the right side of the road. This marks the site of the Black Horse Tavern, where three members of the Committee of Safety of 1775 — Colonel Azor Ome, Colonel Jeremiah Lee, and Elb ridge Gerry of Marblehead — were spending the night of the 18th of April, and barely escaped capture by the British soldiers on the march out to Lexington and Concord. Nearing the town center, the Arlington House is marked, " Here stood Cooper's Tavern, in which Jabez Wyman and Jason Winship were killed by the British, April 19, 1775." A little way beyond this tavern, at the right, is Mystic Street, down which, a hundred yards from the avenue, is a tablet inscribed with this marvelous tale : " Near this spot Samuel Whittemore, then eighty years old, killed three British soldiers EAST LEXINGTON 153 April 19, 1775. He was shot, bayonetted, beaten, and left for dead, but recovered and lived to be ninety-eight years of age." At the junc- tion of the avenue and Pleasant Street, in front of the church green, a tablet records that "at this spot on April 19th, 1775, the old men of Menotomy captured a convoy of English soldiers with supplies, on its way to join the British at Lexington." Behind the church on Pleasant Street is the old burying ground where a number who fell in the fight during the British retreat were buried. Farther down Pleasant Street, on the borders of fair Spy Pond, is the home of John T. Trowbridge, author and poet. On the avenue again, above the church green, is the fine Robbins Memorial Library, and a little beyond this, near the corner of Jason Street, another tablet appears, identifying the " site of the house of Jason Russell, where he and eleven others were captured, disarmed and killed by the retreating British." Farther along on the plain near- ing Arlington Heights are two or three old houses which suffered damage in the fight. At the top of the incline the " Foot of the Rocks" as this point was called at the time of the Revolution, is reached. To the left a road leads up to " the Heights," from which a beautiful view is to be had. The car stables close to the Lexington line are only a little way beyond. Here the change is made to the Lexington car a few steps above. East Lexington, or the East Village as it used to be called, is now a tranquil hamlet, with an old-fashioned store or two, some comfortable- looking houses along the main avenue, a few memorials of the British invasion, and a little church in which Emerson occasionally preached (the octagonal structure on the right side of the avenue, known as the Follen Church, from Charles Follen, the German scholar, its minister, who was lost in the burning of the steamer Lexington on Long Island Sound in 1840). At the junction of the avenue and Pleasant Street is a tablet set up beside a drinking fount, which marks the point where the first armed man of the Revolution was taken, — only to rearm him- self and fight later on Lexington Green. He was Benjamin Wellington, a minuteman. A short distance beyond is a plain white house, on the right side, upon which is a tablet identifying it as the " home of Jonathan Harrington, the last survivor of the Battle of Lexington." This, how- ever, was not the place where Jonathan lived at the time of the fight. He was a boy then (a fifer to the minutemen) and lived with his father, another Jonathan Harrington, whose house also is standing, a little farther on, at the corner of Maple Street. In the sidewalk in front of the latter house is one of the largest elms in New England. One day in 1753 the elder Jonathan drove an ox team to Salem, and on 3 54 LEXINGTON the way back he pulled up an elm shoot to brush the flies off the oxen. When he got home he set it out, and this great tree has grown from it. Lexington. After passing the rural station of Munroe's, on the rail- road, the first object of interest, and a worthy one, is Munroe's Tavern, standing on an elm-shaded knoll at the left of the avenue. On its face is a tablet thus inscribed: "Earl Percy's headquarters and hospital, April 19, 1775. The Munroe Tavern built 1695." Percy occupied the room on the left of the entrance door, and this was made the temporary hospital. The room on the right was the taproom, where the soldiers were freely supplied with liquor. When the retreat began some of the soldiers discharged their guns, killing John Raymond, who had served them and who was trying to escape through a back door. A bullet hole made by one of the British musket balls is still seen in the ceiling of this room. The departing soldiers also started a fire in the tavern, but it was put out. In the southeast part of the second story was the tavern dining room, and here Wash- ington dined in Novem- ber, 1789, when on his last journey through New England. This house was much larger then, with spreading outbuildings. Abandoned as a tavern yejars ago, it has been preserved as a memorial of the Revolution. As the town center is approached historic sites multiply. The hill on the left is marked as the point where one of the British fieldpieces was planted to command the village and its approaches. Near it, we are informed by the same tablet, " several buildings were burned." A little way beyond Bloomfield Street, at the left, is about the point where Percy met Smith's retreating force, and at the right, in front of the High School, a granite cannon marks the spot where he planted a field- piece to cover the retreat. Arrived at Lexington Green, — the Common where the "battle" occurred, — the visitor will find every point of importance designated by a monument or tablet. Thus at the lower end is the stone pulpit marking the site of the first three meetinghouses, a " spot identified LEXINGTON 155 with the town's history for one hundred and fifty years." Near by is a bronze statue of a yeoman with gun in hand standing on a heap of rocks. Where the minutemen were lined up is indicated by a bowlder inscribed with the words of Captain Parker : " Stand your ground. Don't fire unless fired upon, but if they mean to have a war, let it begin here." On the west side of the ground is the old stone monument, now in a beautiful mantle of ivy, which the State erected in 1799, and for which the patriot minister of Lexington, Jonas Clarke, wrote the oratorical inscription. In a stone vault back of it are deposited the remains of those who fell in the engagement, which were removed to this place from their common grave in the village burying ground. With the modern houses about the green are three which were standing at the time of the battle. On the north side is a house in an old garden which was the Buckman Tavern, " a rendezvous of the minutemen, a mark for British bullets," as the tablet on its face states. On the south side a plain white house bears the legend, " A witness of the battle." On the west side, at the corner of Bedford Street, is a house in which lived Jonathan Harrington, who, "wounded on the Common " in the engagement, " dragged himself to the door and died at his wife's feet." A few steps from the Unitarian Church, on this side, is a lane with a bowlder at its corner marked " Ye Old Burying- Ground 1690." Among the many quaintly inscribed gravestones here are the tombs of the ministers John Hancock, grandfather of Gov- ernor John Hancock, and Jonas Clarke, and monuments to Captain Parker of the minutemen and Governor William Eustis, who was a student with General Joseph Warren and served as a surgeon at Bunker Hill and through the war. He was governor of the State in 1823-1825. On Hancock Street is the historic Hancock-Clarke house (moved from its original site on the opposite side of the way), the home of the ministers, first Hancock and then Clarke. Here John Hancock and Samuel Adams were stopping the night before the battle, and were roused at midnight from their sleep by Paul Revere, when they were taken by their guard to Captain James Reed's in Burlington. The venerable house is now a museum of Revolutionary relics. In the Town Hall, below the green, are the Memorial Hall and Carey Public Library, in which is a larger museum of relics, with numerous portraits, old prints, and Major Pitcairn's pistols, captured during the retreat. Here are statues of The Minuteman of '75; The Union Soldier; John Hancock, by Thomas R. Gould; and Samuel Adams, by Martin Milmore. In the public hall above is a fine painting of the Battle of Lexington by Henry Sandham. '56 CONCORD Concord Waltham Street, opening directly opposite the Town Hall, leads toward the birthplace of Theodore Parker, in Spring Street, about two miles distant. jim!{ i(B r . \\ ^ Concord. The heart of the town is the square in the center, where the most con- spicuous object is the Unitarian Church, destroyed by fire in 1900, and wisely re- built on the old simple and dignified lines. This was the site of a still older meeting- house where the Pro- vincial Congress sat. Next to it is the Wright Tavern, dating from 1747. Here Major Pitcaim drank his toddy on the day of the fight. Taking the Lexington road from the square we pass, first, the Concord Antiqiiarian Society' 's house, full of relics and old furniture, and, a little farther, on a road diverging to the right, The Emerson house, where Ralph Waldo Emerson lived the greater part of his life and where he died. His study is preserved as he left it. The house is now occupied by his daughter, Miss Ellen Emerson. Returning to Lexington Street and proceeding about a quarter of a mile, we come to The School of Philosophy and Alcott house. The unpainted, chapel-like building was the home of the school, and the house near it was the " Orchard House," in which the Alcott family lived for twenty years. Here Louisa M. Alcott wrote " Little Women," which turned the tide in the family's fortunes. Just beyond, under the hill, is The Alcott House CONCORD 157 The Wayside, also occupied at one time by the Alcotts, but better known as the home of Hawthorne after the return from Europe. Here the family were living at the time of Hawthorne's sudden death in New Hampshire. " Hawthorne's Walk " is on the crest of the ridge that rises abruptly behind the house. Returning to the square, we ascend, on the right, the old Hillside Burying Ground. Here are historic graves, including those of Emerson's grandfather and Major John Buttrick, who led the fight at the Old North Bridge ; and some unique epitaphs, especially that of John Jack, the slave. The church near this burying ground is now a Catholic church, and turning the corner of the street on which it stands, we soon come to Sleepy Hollow Cemetery. Here, on a high ridge beyond the beauti- ful hollow which gives the ceme- tery its name, are, in proximity, the graves of Hawthorne, of Emerson, of Thoreau, of Louisa M. Alcott and her father. Near the foot of this slope should not be over- looked the Hoar family lot and the beautiful epitaphs placed by the late Judge Hoar upon the monuments to his father, Samuel Hoar, and to his brother, Edward Hoar. The exquisitely appropri- ate inscription on the Soldiers' Monument in the square was also written by Judge Hoar. Return- ing once more to the square, and proceeding thence on Monument Street for about half or three quarters of a mile, The Old Manse, where Emerson wrote " Nature," and Hawthorne lived for a time, is seen on the left, standing back from the road. The study of both Emerson and Hawthorne was a small room at the back of the second floor. This house was built ten years before the battle at the bridge close by, and was for many generations the house of the minister of the village. A little this side of it is the home of Judge Keyes, which dates from before the Revolution, and in the ell of which may still be seen the hole through which passed a musket ball fired at some patriot who was standing in the doorway at the time of the fight. Battle Monument 158 CONCORD The Battle Ground. The wooded lane just beyond the Old Manse leads to the scene of the battle at the Old North Bridge, the story of which is told by the inscriptions on the monuments there. Most pathetic is the simple inscription which marks the graves of unknown British soldiers killed on the spot. French's bronze Minuteman fitly stands on the opposite side of the river, at about the point where the Americans made their attack. House of the First Minister. If on our way back we turn to the right after crossing the railroad tracks, and then to the left, we shall pass the site of the house in which Peter Bulkeley, the first Concord minister, lived, — he who made the bargain with the Indians for the land of Con- cord, which secured to the colonists its "peaceful possession." This is on Lowell Street, and a few steps farther and facing the square, our starting point, is a low wooden block, a part of which was one of the storehouses sacked by the British. Continuing through the square and turning to- the right, the first house beyond the very pretty bank building is one a part of which is said to have been the original blockhouse built by the first settlers as a defense against the Indians. Beyond, on the left, at the junction of the two roads, is the Concord Public Library. Here are some interesting busts and pictures, and a collection — astonishingly large — of books written by residents of Concord. Homes of the Hoar Family. Continuing on the main street, the fourth house from the blockhouse was the home of Samuel Hoar, the first of the name. Here were born his eminent sons, the late Judge Hoar and Senator Hoar. The next house was the home of the late Samuel Hoar, the eldest son of Judge Hoar; and the next beyond that is the home of the widow of Sherman Hoar, Judge Hoar's youngest son. On the left, near the corner of Thoreau Street and secluded by a hedge of trees, is the Thoreau House. Here Thoreau lived during the last twelve years of his life, and here he died of consumption. The Alcott family also lived in this house for several years. The site of Thoreau's hut by Walden Pond is marked by a cairn made by visitors. Still continuing on the main street and bearing to the right, we find, just beyond the little stone Episcopal church which stands on the left, The Home of Frank B. Sanborn. Here, in what is perhaps the pret- tiest house in Concord, and close to the river, lives Frank Sanborn, the last of the men who gave Concord a world-wide reputation, and famous as an antislavery man, as schoolmaster, lecturer, and author. A mile or more beyond the Sanborn house is NORTH SHORE 159 The Concord Reformatory. This institution, intended for younger and the less hardened criminals, is a large one, and is believed to be a model of its kind. Concord Schools. Concord has always been remarkable for its schools ; and besides its public schools it contains an Episcopal boarding school, with grounds sloping to the river, not far from the Sanborn house, and also a Unitarian boarding school, situated on the road to Lowell, about three miles beyond the village. Home of Edward W. Emerson. On the same road, a mile or so beyond the village, is the home of Emerson's only son, Dr. Edward W. Emer- son, a physician and artist, and the author of that most valuable and interesting book, " Emerson in Concord." THE NORTH SHORE Lynn (about 12 miles distant from Boston) can be reached in twenty minutes by steam railroad (Boston & Maine, Eastern Division, from the North Station) or by the Boston, Revere Beach & Lynn Railroad, a longer route but running closer to the sea, which begins with a short trip in a ferryboat, taken at Rowe's Wharf, Atlantic Avenue (a station of the elevated railway close by). If time can be spared, one may journey pleasantly to Lynn in Boston and Northern electric cars, taken in the Subway at the Scollay Square station, and running through the Charlestown District (past the Navy Yard), Chelsea, Revere, and thence straight across the broad Saugus marshes with their numerous inlets, and with the ocean in sight on the extreme right. We reach first West Lynn. The works of the General Electric Company and numerous shoe factories are here. A mile or so beyond is Lynn proper, a great shoe city. At CentAl Square electric cars may be taken for trips in various directions, especially to the Lynn Woods, the beautiful reservation of about two thousand acres. From Central Square, also, " barges " (a kind of long-drawn bus) run to the aristo- cratic summer resort of Nahant (" cold roast Boston "), the oldest of eastern summer resorts, occupying a rocky promontory. On the extreme point is the summer home of Henry Cabot Lodge. There is also good sea bathing here, cold as ice water. To the northeast is Egg Rock with its lighthouse, showing a fixed red light. Returning to Lynn, an electric may be taken, if one desires, to Saugus. Here are the Boardman houses, so called, the homes of minutemen in 1776, and "Appleton's pulpit," a huge rock, from which in September, 1687, Major Samuel Appleton of Ipswich harangued i6o MARBLEHEAD AND SALEM the people in favor of resistance to Andros. Here also is the site of the first iron mine and foundry in the Colony. Returning again to Lynn, we may take an electric car for Salem via Swampscott and Marblehead, — a pleasant route passing many summer homes and traversing the Lynn Shore Reservation of the Metropolitan Parks System, which at its northern end joins King's Beach in Swamp- scott. Passing Beach Bluff and Clifton Heights, we come to Marblehead, the quaint, irregular town with crooked streets full of old-time suggestions. Barges or a steam ferry may be taken here to Marblehead Neck, the site of a summer hotel and of the clubhouses of the Eastern and Corinthian Yacht Clubs. At the north end of the town is Fort Sewall, and various islands are in sight, notably " Misery " island, which is devoted by a club to sports and merriment. Features within easy walks are the old Town Hall with memories of the Revolu tion ; the birthplace of Elbridge Gerry ; remnant of the historic Jere miah Lee mansion ; the home and the tomb of General John Glover whose statue is in Boston (see page 78) ; St. Michael's, the oldest Epis copal church now standing in New England ; the " Old Floyd Ireson ' house ; birthplace of " Moll Pitcher," the " fortune teller of Lynn " and the well of the "Fountain Inn," the old tavern where began the romance of Agnes Surriage. From Marblehead we may go by electric car or by steam railroad — or one might have gone directly from Bos- ton by the Boston & Maine (North Station) — to Salem, once the chief port of New England. Here are many stately, reposeful old houses : the Custom House, in which Hawthorne was employed ; the County Jail and Court House, in which many relics of the witchcraft persecution are preserved ; Gallows Hill, where the condemned were hung ; the Roger Williams house ; the house on TOWNS NEAR SALEM 161 Federal Street in which Lafayette was entertained in 1 784 and Washington in 1789; Hawthorne's birthplace on Union Street, and various Hawthorne homes and landmarks ; and the Pickering mansion, built in 1649. Here also are the Essex Institute and the Peabody Academy of Science, with their interesting collections of documents, relics, and curiosities, many of them redolent of the sea and foreign commerce. Near-by towns are Peabody, named for George Peabody, the London-American banker, with the Peabody Institute, containing, besides many relics, a portrait of Queen Victoria, given by her to Mr. Peabody ; and Danvers, the home of General Israel Putnam, and at one time of Whittier. Here stands the fine old Hooper or Collins house, one of the best of Provincial mansions remaining, which General Gage used as his headquarters in the summer of 1774; and not far away is the Colonial farmhouse once occupied by Rebecca Nourse, the good house- wife and kind neighbor who was executed for witchcraft. From Salem electric cars run through Beverly to the tip end of Cape Ann ; but from Beverly they take an inland course through the towns of Wenham, Hamilton, Essex, and West Gloucester, whereas the Gloucester branch of the steam railroad diverges to the east at Beverly and runs along the coast. Beverly, settled in 1628, is now a shoe town in one part and a summer resort in the other parts. There are many wooded walks and drives here, and through Pride's Crossing, Beverly Farms, West Manchester, and Manchester-by-the-Sea, noted for its "singing beach," which gives forth a musical note as one walks over it. Here also is the Masconomo House, a famous summer hotel and the scene of open-air drama. Beyond are Magnolia and Gloucester, the port from which the hardy fishermen sail to " The Banks " for cod and haddock, and to which many of them never return. Kipling's " Captains Courageous " is the best guide book for Gloucester. At the extreme tip of Cape Ann is Rockport, famous for its granite quarries, for its breakwater, built by the Federal government, and for its rocky scenery, much haunted by artists. The Isles of Shoals lie off the shore, and also Thatcher's Island, with its twin lights. Salem Itinerary. A day might well be devoted to Salem alone. The following itinerary, arranged for the visitor who has only an hour or two for its exploration, embraces the more important or most interesting places and sites. 1 62 SALEM The start is made from Town House Square (Washington Street at the crossing of Essex Street), a little way above the railroad station. On Washington Street, between the station and the square, on the west side of the railroad tunnel, is seen the Joshua Ward House (No. 148), in which Washington passed a night when in Salem on his tour of New England in the autumn of 1789. He occupied the northeast chamber of the second story. This house is on the site of the dwelling of the high sheriff, George Corwin, the executioner of the witchcraft victims in 1692. From Town House Square turn into Essex Street east. The Unita- rian Church on the southeast corner occupies the site of the First Meetinghouse, built prior to 1635 for the first church in Salem, formed in 1629. The present is the fourth in succession on this spot. The second one was the place of the examinations of the unhappy accused " witches " before the deputy governor and councilors from Boston in April, 1692. Beside the third one, "three rods west" of it, facing Essex Street, stood the Town House in which in 1774 met the last General Assembly of the Province of Massachusetts Bay and the first Provincial Congress. A short distance up Essex Street, at No. 101, is the Peabody Academy of Science (founded upon an endowment by George Peabody, the American banker in London), in the East India Marine Building. This contains the natural history and ethnological collec- tions of the Essex Institute, and the nautical museum of the East India Marine Society (dating from 1799), with large additions, so arranged as to be educational rather than merely entertaining. On the opposite side of the street, at No. 134, is Plummer Hall, the house of the Salem Athenceum (proprietary library, 24,000 volumes). This occupies the site of the house in which William H. Prescott, the historian, was born, and in which earlier lived Nathan Read, who invented and successfully sailed a paddle-wheel steamboat in 1 789, some years before Fulton. In Colony days the Downing-Bradstreet house was here (the homestead lot being covered by this building and its neighbor, the Cadet Armory), first the home of the Puritan Emanuel Downing, whose son George Downing gave his name to Downing Street in London, and afterward that of Simon Bradstreet, the last colonial governor. Next above Plummer Hall is the Essex Institute (No. 132), which comprises the Institute museum of historical objects, manuscripts, documents, and portraits, many and rare, the largest and most notable collection of its kind in the country ; and the library, containing about 85,000 volumes, 302,000 pamphlets, and 700 volumes of manuscript. The visitor upon entering the Institute SALEM 163 Birthplace of Hawthorne should procure a copy of its guide, which gives the details of the inter- esting exhibit here. From Essex Street on the south side, just above these institutions, turn into Union Street, which leads to the Birthplace of Hawthorne, in the ancient gambrel-roofed house, No. 27. This house dates from before 1692, and belonged to Hawthorne's grandfather, Daniel Hathorne (the romancer changed the spelling of the name) after 1772. Hawthorne was born (1804) in the northwest chamber. Back of this house, facing on Herbert Street, is the Herbert Street Hawthorne House (now a tenement house, Nos. ioj^ and 12), formerly owned by Hawthorne's mater- nal grandfather, Manning, in which much of the author's boyhood was passed, and where he afterward lived and wrote at intervals during his man- hood. His " lonely chamber " w r as the northwest room of the third story. From Derby Street, which Union Street crosses, pass to Charter Street northward, in which is the Charter Street Burying Ground, " Old Burying Point," dating from 1637, fancifully sketched by Hawthorne. Here are graves or tombs of Governor Simon Bradstreet ; the witchcraft judge Hathorne and other ancestors of Hawthorne; the two chief justices Benjamin Lynde, father and son ; Nathaniel Mather, younger brother of Cotton Mather of Boston, precociously learned and pious, who died " an aged man at nineteen years " ; Richard More, a boy passenger on the Mayflower ; and " Dr. John Swinnerton, physician," whose name Hawthorne util- ized in two of his romances. Adjoining the burying ground is the "Dr. Grimshawe" House (53 Charter Street) of "Dr. Grimshawe's Secret" and "The Dolliver Romance," — the home of Dr. Nathaniel Peabody at the time of Hawthorne's courtship of Sophia Amelia Peabody, who became his wife. On Derby Street, a short distance eastward, is the Salem Custom House. The office which Hawthorne occupied as sur- veyor of the port in 1 846-1 849 was the corner room of the first floor, at the left of the entrance. The stencil, " N. Hawthorne," with which he marked inspected goods, is preserved here as a memento ; the desk upon which he wrote is in the Essex Institute. The room in which he fancied the discovery of the scarlet letter is on the second floor of the 164 SALEM easterly side of the building, in the rear of the collector's office. In Hawthorne's time this was an unused room, with boxes and barrels of old papers. Three or four streets east of the Custom House is Turner Street, by which return should be made to Essex Street. On Turner Street the old house No. 54 is marked the House of the Seven Gables. This is not correct, for Hawthorne, upon his own statement, took no particular house for his model in the romance of this name. The house is interesting, however, as one which Haw- thorne much frequented, it then being the home of the Ingersoll family, his relatives. It may j have suggested the title of _ the romance. Here the "Tales of Grandfather's Chair" originated. From Turner Street cross Essex Street to Washington Square, with its stately houses of early nineteenth- century build, bordering the fine Common. On the north side, at the corner of Winter Street, is the Story House, in which lived Judge Joseph Story, and Salem Custom House , , ■ TIT .„. where his son, William W. larks the office occupied by Hawthorne c , ., , _j 1 , Story, the poet and sculptor, was born. On Mall Street, the second street from this side, the house No. 14 was Hawthorne's Mall Street House, where " The Scarlet Letter " was written. The study here was the front room in the third story. From the west side of the square take Brown Street to St. Peter's Street, thence pass to Federal Street, and so to Washington Street again by Town House Square. On Howard Street, north from Brown Street, is the Prescott Schoolhouse, said to be near the site of the place where Giles Corey, the last victim of the witchcraft frenzy, was pressed to death. On Federal Street is the site of the Witchcraft Jail of i6g2, covered by the house (No. 2) of the historical scholar, Abner C. Goodell. In this jail the persons accused of witch- craft were confined, and from it the condemned were taken to the place of execution. Some of the timbers of the old jail are in the present house. The- SALEM 165 On Washington Street, just about where Federal Street enters, is the site of Governor Endicotfs " faire house." At the southern comer of Wash- ington and Church streets stood the Bishop House, where in 1692 lived Edward and Bridget Bishop, the latter the first witchcraft victim to be hanged. About opposite, on the west side of Washington Street, near Lynde Street, was the House of Nicholas Noyes, minister of the first church at the time of the witchcraft delusion, and a firm believer in witchcraft. In the middle of the street here stood the Court House of i6g2, where the witchcraft trials were held. In the present Court House, at the end of Washington Street, facing Federal Street, are Witchcraft Documents and Relics, in the custody of the clerk of the courts. Among these are the manuscript records of the testimony taken at the trials, the death warrant of Bridget Bishop, with Sheriff Corwin's return thereon, recording that he had " caused her to be hanged by the neck till she was dead and buried," the last words being crossed with a pen, apparently by the careful sheriff on second thought ; and some of the "witch-pins" which were produced in court as among the instruments of torture used by the accused. Through Federal Street west and North Street north is reached the JVorth Bridge, in place of the bridge of Revolutionary days, where the "first armed resistance to the royal authority was made" on a Sunday in February, 1775, nearly two months before the affair at Lexington and Concord, when the advance of the British force, led by Lieutenant Colonel Leslie, to seize munitions of war, was arrested by the people of Salem. A spirited painting, " The Repulse of Leslie," is in the Essex Institute. Return through North Street to Essex Street west. On the comer of North Street (310 Essex Street) is the Witch House, so called persistently without warrant beyond the tra- dition that some of the preliminary examinations of accused persons were held here, it being at the time of the delusion the dwelling of Judge Jonathan Corwin of the court. It is said to have been earlier the home of Roger Williams (in 163 5-1 636). It is the oldest house now standing in Salem. Through Summer Street from Essex pass to Chestnut Street, lined with great elms and bordered by many fine old-time mansions. At No. 18 was Hawthorne' 's Chestnut Street House, which he occupied less than two years at the beginning of the surveyorship period. Little literary work i66 SALEM appears to have been done here. At an earlier period John Pickering, the Greek lexicographer, lived in this house. On Broad Street, the next street south, at No. 18, is the many-gabled Pickering House, dating back to 1660, the birthplace of Timothy Pickering, the distinguished soldier and statesman of the Revolution and member of Washington's cabinet. Opposite, at the head of Broad Street, is a succession of school buildings, — The Latin and High Schools, the former of which is one of the oldest in the country. Behind these buildings is the Broad Street Burying Ground, second in age to the Charter Street Burying Ground, having been laid out in 1655. Here are the tombs of the Pickerings, of Corwin, the witch- craft sheriff, and of General Frederick W. Lander. Return to Essex Street, and after a call at the Public Library (No. 370), on the corner of Monroe Street, and a glance at the fine old-time mansions of the neighborhood, — notably the Cabot house, dating from 1748, for a third of a century the home of William C. Endicott, justice of the State Supreme Court and member of President Cleve- land's cabinet, — take a car for Gallows Hill, where the nineteen victims of witchcraft were hanged. It is on Boston Street (the old Boston Road), approached from Hanson Street, where the conductor should be signaled to stop. Returned to Town House Square, the visitor may, if he have time, spend a few minutes profitably in the City Plall in looking over the unusual collection of portraits here. They include a Washington painted by Jane Stuart, a copy of a half-length portrait by her father, Gilbert Stuart ; a portrait of President Andrew Jackson by Major R. E. W. Earle of his military family in 1833; and portraits of Endicott. South of the railroad station is a nest of old buildings in old streets, among them the Ruck house, 8 Mill Street, dating from before 1651, interesting as the sometime home of Richard Cranch, where John Adams frequently visited (Adams and Cranch married sisters), and at a later time occupied by John Singleton Copley, the Boston painter,, when here painting the portraits of Salem worthies. Chestnut Street, Salem THE SOUTH SHORE 167 THE SOUTH SHORE The pleasant places along the South Shore between Quincy and Plymouth are brought into connection with Boston and with each other by electric-car systems, while the steam railroad traverses the country closest to the shore. The most direct electric-car route from Boston to Plymouth is through Quincy, Braintree, South Braintree, Holbrook, Brockton, Whitman, Hanson, Pembroke, the Plymouth Woods, West Duxbury, and Kingston. For this route the Neponset car should be taken at the Dudley Street terminal of the Elevated. The trunk line continues through Quincy to Brockton, where change is made to the Plymouth line. Other lines between Quincy and Brockton pass through Quincy Point, across Weymouth Fore River, through Weymouth, cross- ing Weymouth Back River, Hingham, the Old Colony Woods, Nan- tasket, Hingham Center, Rockland, and Whitman, making connection at the latter place with the Plymouth line. The pleasantest steam-railroad journey is by the South Shore route (New York, New Haven & Hartford system, South Station), passing through Quincy, Braintree, Weymouth, Hingham, Cohasset, Scituate, Marshfield, Duxbury, and Kingston, to Plymouth. The more direct route is by the main line through Braintree, South Weymouth, Abington, Whitman, Hanson, Halifax, and Kingston. Hingham is one of the loveliest as well as one of the oldest towns in Massachusetts (settled in 1633). Its broad main street is shaded by magnificent elms. Its Old Ship Church, with pyramidal roof and bel- fry, dating from 168 1, is the oldest existing meetinghouse in the country, and the quaintest. In the burying ground near it is the grave of John A. Andrew, the war governor, marked with a statue by Gould. Com- fortable mansions of old type abound in the town. On a sightly hill is the home of John D. Long, governor, congressman, and Secretary of the Navy. Cohasset, with irregular rocky coast, commanding a wide extent of ocean prospect, is the most favored place of the upper South Shore for summer seats. On and about its quite renowned Jerusalem Road are numerous extensive estates with elaborate houses and grounds. The Jerusalem Road to an unusual degree blends the charms of sea and shore. Scituate also enjoys a beautiful ocean front, with fair beaches and a pretty harbor, protected by rocky cliffs. This town is the scene 0/" Sam- uel Woodworth's lyric, " The Old Oaken Bucket." The old farm where the poet was born, which he immortalized in his song, was close by the present railroad station. 168 MARSHFIELD AND DUXBURY Marshfield was the country home of Daniel Webster. The Webster place is some distance from the railroad, eastward. The ride or walk to it is along a country hillside road, from which beautiful views occa- sionally disclose themselves. The place originally included a part of " Careswell," the domain of the Plymouth Colony governor, Edward Winslow. Half a mile back from it is the tomb of Webster, on Burying Hill, a tranquil spot among fields and pastures overlooking the sea. Before the tomb, of rough-hewn granite, a plain marble slab displays the epitaph which Webster dictated the day before his death (1852). In this inclosure are monuments to early Pilgrim settlers. Duxbury, the home of Elder Brewster, Miles Stan dish, and John and Priscilla Alden, is marked by the Standish Monument on Captain's Hill, which looms up in the landscape, visible in a wide extent of country round about. Here is still standing the Standish Cottage, containing, it is believed, some of the materials of Standish's own house, on the slope of Captain's Hill; and in another part of the town is the ancient Alden homestead, on the original Alden farm, which can be seen from the windows of the railroad car. In about the middle of the village, in the oldest of its burying grounds, the supposed grave of Standish is marked by a monument, — a miniature fortress. Here are also graves of the Alden family, and possibly the grave of Elder Brewster. Kingston, part of Plymouth till 1726, when setting up for itself it took its name of King's town in honor of George the Second, on his birthday, is a typical Old Colony town, with a cheerful air of substan- tiality. It has a number of interesting landmarks, the most notable being the Major fohn Bradford house. Major John was the last of the Bradford family to possess the Bradford manuscript, now returned from its adventures and safely housed in the State House at Boston (see p. 43). Plymouth is entered by either the railroad or the trolley line, close to its historic points. A walk not fatiguing from its length will embrace them all. If arrival is made by trolley car, the National Monument is passed at the entrance to the town. It is but a short distance from the railroad station, and if the visitor comes by train it might well be visited first, although it is in the opposite direction from the other Pilgrim sites. The way is through Old Colony Park, a short tree-lined walk from the rear of the station to Court Street, thence, to the right, to Cushman Street and to Allerton Street. The great granite pile, surmounted by the colossal figure of Faith, and with groups of sitting figures, is seen placed to advantage in a broad open space on the crown of a hill. It was designed by Hammatt Billings, and finally completed nearly thirty years after the corner stone was laid. PLYMOUTH 169 Returning to Court Street and approaching the town center, Pilgrim Hall is reached, a little way beyond the head of Old Colony Park. In the front yard is a stone tablet inscribed with the words of the compact signed in the cabin of the Mayflower. The collection in the halls of the building, comprising Pilgrim antiquities, paintings, prints, and other historical objects, is of great extent and value. Most interesting to many visitors is the Standish case, which is the doughty cap- tain's sword, said to be of early Persian make. Above Pil- grim Hall is the County t House, on the oppo- site side of the street, back from a green park, in which are precious documents of Pilgrim days. These are preserved in the office of the registry of deeds, and include papers bear- ing the signatures of Bradford and Standish, orders in Brad- ford's handwriting, Standish's will, the plan of the first allot- ment of lands, the plotting of the first street (the present Leyden Street), and the original patent of 1629 granted to Bradford and his associates. North Street, just above the Court House, to the right from Court Street, leads to Plymouth Rock, under the high granite canopy also designed by Billings. The side gates in the iron railing are open dur- ing the daytime so that visitors may step upon the stone. Close by is Pilgrim Wharf. Cole's Hill, where the first houses of the colonists were set up, and where their first burials were made in unmarked graves, rises from the opposite side of Water Street, reduced and rounded now from a ragged elevation to a symmetrical green mound. On the brow is a small park overlooking the harbor. Here at the head of Middle Street, which Plymouth *7 6 PLYMOUTH opens from Carver Street, a tablet marks the spot where the skeletons of two of the forty-four Pilgrims, nearly half the number, who died dur- ing the first hard winter, were found a century and a half after. These remains, with parts of five other skeletons, are entombed in the chamber of the canopy over the rock. Leyden Street, next beyond Middle Street, the first and chief Pilgrim street, leads up to Burial Hill. Beyond its start at Carver Street the site of the first, or " common," house is seen, marked conspicuously, on the left side. Burial Hill rises abruptly from elm-shaded Town Square, a block from Main Street, practically a continuation of Court Street. Odd Fellows Building, on the corner of Main Street, marks the site of Gov- ernor Bradford's house. The site of the first meetinghouse is supposed to be covered by the tower of this building. Burial Hill was the place of the first forts, which served also as meetinghouses, and these are marked by oval tablets in the burying ground. The spot where the watch house was erected in 1643 * s similarly marked. The most impor- tant monuments here are over the graves of the Bradfords and of the Cushmans. The Governor Bradford obelisk occupies a point com- manding the fullest view of the town below. Among other graves of note here are those of John Howland, the last survivor in Plymouth of the Mayflower passengers, and Adoniram Judson, the Plymouth min- ister, father of Adoniram Judson, the early missionary to Burma. Watson's Hill, where the first Indians appeared to the colonists, and whence came the friendly Samoset and after him Massasoit, lies to the southward of Burial Hill. And below is seen the Town Brook crossing, where Massasoit and his braves were met by the Puritan leaders, from which meeting resulted the famous " league of peace." HARBOR AND BAY 171 V. EXCURSIONS AND TOURS HARBOR AND BAY To Pemberton (Hull) and Nantasket. By steamboats of Nantasket Beach Steamboat Company. Hourly from Rowe's Wharf (Atlantic Avenue circuit elevated railway station at door). Fare, 25 cents each way. Passengers have their choice of going to Nantasket by boat or landing at Pemberton and continuing to Nantasket along the shore by the electric trains of the New York, New Haven & Hartford Rail- road. Stations at Stony Beach, Allerton, Waveland, Kenberma, Bay- side, and Windermere. To Crow Point and Hingham. By steamboats of above-named company from same wharf. Fare, 25 cents each w T ay. To Plymouth. By steamboats of above-named company from same wharf. Fare, 75 cents each way. At Plymouth carriages are at the wharf for the tour of the town. Plymouth is also reached by railroad and electric lines (see South Shore, under Day Trips). To Provincetown. By steamer Cape Cod from Snow's Arch Wharf, near Rowe's Wharf station, Atlantic Avenue circuit, elevated railway (for details, see advertisements in daily papers), or by trains of the New York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad (Plymouth Division) from South Station. The trip by water across the bay is very pleasant on a calm day. The steamer remains at Provincetown for an hour or two, giving visitors opportunity to look over the quaint town, and especially the great sand dunes which rise back of it and break off the strong northeast gales. To Hough's Neck (a pleasant resort in the city of Quincy). By steam- boats from Snow's Arch Wharf, four times daily. To Nahant. By steamboats from Lincoln Wharf, close to Battery Street station, Atlantic Avenue circuit, elevated railway. The boats pass out through Shirley Gut, between Winthrop and Deer Island. (For details of sailing, fares, etc., see advertisements in daily papers.) To Gloucester. By steamboats from Central Wharf, near State Street station, Atlantic Avenue circuit. Fare, 50 cents each way ; round trip, 75 cents. (For details of times of sailing, see advertisements in daily papers.) The boats of this line pass along the picturesque North Shore for the whole way, making a delightful trip. Gloucester is also reached by railroad and electric lines (see North Shore, under Day Trips). To Newburyport and Haverhill. By steamboats from Lewis Wharf, near Battery Street station, Atlantic Avenue circuit. (For details of sailings, etc., see advertisements in daily papers.) 72 MAINE COAST AND CANADIAN POINTS THE MAINE COAST AND RIVER POINTS To Portland. By steamboats of the Eastern Steamship Company from India Wharf, near Rowe's Wharf station, Atlantic Avenue circuit. Every evening at 7. Fare, #1.25 each way; stateroom extra, according to location. To Rockland and Bangor. By steamboats of above-named company from Foster's Wharf, near Rowe's Wharf station. Every evening (except Sunday) at 5. These boats connect at Rockland with steamers of the same line for Mount Desert ; also with boats for various island and shore resorts in Penobscot Bay. To Bar Harbor (Mount Desert). By trains of the Boston & Maine Railroad (North Station) to Portland, at 7 p.m., Tuesdays and Fridays ; connecting at Portland with steamer Frank Jones of the Portland, Mount Desert & Machias Steamboat Company, which leaves at 1 1 p.m., arrives at Rockland early in the morning, and thence proceeds by daylight through the beautiful scenery of the islands in Penobscot Bay, touch- ing at Islesboro, Castine, Deer Isle, Sedgwick, Blue Hill, Brooklin, Southwest Harbor, Northeast Harbor, and arrives at Bar Harbor at about 2 p.m. Returning, leaves Bar Harbor at about 10 a.m. To Bath and Augusta. By steamers of the Eastern Steamship Com- pany from Union Wharf, near Battery Street station, Atlantic Avenue circuit. Every evening (except Sunday) at 6. CANADIAN POINTS To Eastport, Me., and St. John, N.B. By steamers of the Eastern Steamship Company from Commercial Wharf, near State Street station, Atlantic Avenue circuit. Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays. To Yarmouth, N.S. By steamers of the Dominion Atlantic Railway Company from Long Wharf (elevated railway station at the door). (For details of sailings, etc., see advertisements in daily papers.) At Yarmouth connections are made with other steamers of the line for ports along the south shore of Nova Scotia; also with trains of the Dominion Atlantic Railway for the " Land of Evangeline," the Annap- olis Valley, Halifax, and (via Digby and steamer across the Bay of Fundy) St. John, N.B. To Halifax, N.S., Cape Breton, and Prince Edward Islands. By steam- ers of the Plant Line from Lewis Wharf, near Battery Street station, Atlantic Avenue circuit. Tuesdays and Saturdays at noon. At Halifax connect with trains of the Intercolonial Railway for all parts of Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and Quebec; at Hawkesbury, C.B., with trains COASTWISE POINTS 173 of the Intercolonial Railway for the Bras d'Or Lake, Sydney, and Louis- burg; at Charlottetown, P.E.L, with trains of the Prince Edward Island Railway for all parts of the island. At Sydney, C.B., the steamer Brtice may be taken for Port aux Basques, Newfoundland, connecting there with the Reid Newfoundland Company's railroad across the island of St. John's, a journey of twenty-eight hours. OTHER COASTWISE POINTS To New York around Cape Cod, through Vineyard Sound and Long Island Sound. By steamers of the Joy Steamship Company from wharf near the South Boston end of the Congress Street bridge. (For details, see advertisements in daily papers.) To Philadelphia. By steamers of the Boston & Philadelphia Steam- ship Company from India Wharf, near Rowe's Wharf station, Atlantic Avenue circuit. Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, at 3 p.m. Fare, $10 each way; round trip, $18, including meals and stateroom berth. To Norfolk and Baltimore. By steamers of the Merchants and Miners Transportation Company from Battery Wharf (station of elevated rail- way at the door). Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays, at 2 P.M. To Savannah, Ga. By steamers of the Ocean Steamship Company from Lewis Wharf, near Battery Street station, Atlantic Avenue circuit. Wednesdays, at 3 p.m. To Charleston, S.C. By steamers of the Clyde Line. Twice a week. (For details, see advertisements in daily papers.) To Jamaica. By steamers of the United Fruit Company from Long Wharf, State Street station, Atlantic Avenue circuit. Sailings twice a week. Fare, $35 each way ; round trip, $60, meals and stateroom berth included, during the summer season. (For details, see advertisements in daily papers.) RAILROAD TOURS To Hyannis. By trains of the New York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad, Plymouth Division (South Station). Eight trains daily. A journey of about two hours and a half, via Bridge water, Middleboro, Buzzards Bay, and Yarmouth. To Woods Hole. By the same route as the above to Buzzards Bay ; thence via Monument Beach and Falmouth. Trains and running time are about the same as to Hyannis. At Woods Hole is the Marine Biological Laboratory, incorporated in 1888 and opened in the summer of that year. Here investigations in marine biology are systematically 174 RAILROAD TOURS and constantly pursued by a corps of scientists, aided during the summer months by students from several of the universities. To Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket. By trains to Woods Hole, as above ; thence by steamers of the Marine District, New York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad. Train from Boston at 1.38 p.m. makes close connection at Woods Hole. At Nantucket the steamer connects with trains of the Nantucket Central Railroad for Siasconset. To Newport, R.I. By trains of the New York, New Haven & Hart- ford Railroad, Providence Division (South Station). Eight times daily (from Back Bay station four minutes later), via Mansfield, Taunton, and Fall River. A journey of about two hours. Also by trains of the same division to Providence, R.I., frequently through the day, a ride of one hour; thence by steamers of the Providence, Fall River & Newport Steamboat Company. The ride down Narragansett Bay is very beau- tiful. Round trip, 60 cents. To the White Mountains. By trains of the Boston & Maine Railroad (North Station), Southern Division, via Lowell, Nashua, Manchester, Concord, and Franklin, N.H.; Western Division, via Lawrence, Haver- hill, Dover, and Rochester, N.H. ; Eastern Division, via Salem, New- buryport, Portsmouth, and Rochester, N.H. (or via Portland, Me., and Maine Central Railroad by Sebago Lake and Bartlett, N.H.) ; to all mountain points. By either route a choice of two or three through trains daily can usually be had. The exact leaving time of each train can be obtained from advertisements in the daily papers, or by inquiry at the information booth in the waiting room of the North Station, or at the company's up-town passenger office, corner of Washington and Milk streets, where tickets may be bought and parlor-car seats or Pullman berths secured. To Lake Champlain, Vermont Resorts, Montreal, and Canadian Points. By trains of the Boston & Maine Railroad, Southern Division, via Lowell, Concord, N.H., White River Junction, Vt., and Vermont Central Rail- road ; Fitchburg Division, via Fitchburg, Keene, N.H., Brattleboro and White River Junction, Vt., and Vermont Central Railroad; or via Rut- land, Vt., and the Rutland Railroad to Burlington ; thence through the midst of Lake Champlain, over its beautiful islands to Alburgh, and on to St. Johns, P.Q. The same remarks as to train service, hours of leaving, etc., apply as in the case of the White Mountain trips. To Saratoga, Lake George, and the Adirondacks. By trains of the Bos- ton & Maine Railroad, Fitchburg Division, via Fitchburg, Greenfield, North Adams, and the Hoosac Tunnel. The same remarks as to train service, etc., apply as in the case of the two last outlined trips. IMPORTANT POINTS OF INTEREST 1 75 VI. IMPORTANT POINTS OF INTEREST For the Visitor whose Time is limited The visitor who has only two or three days to spend in Boston will find the following list of leading points of interest helpful in arranging an itinerary. Old South Meetinghouse. Washington Street, corner of Milk Street. Loan historical collection here. Open week days from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Fee, 25 cents. Old State House. Head of State Street. Memorial halls with historical col- lections. Open from 9 a.m. to 4.30 p.m.; Saturdays from 9.30 to 4. Free. (Temporarily closed, summer of 1903, on account of Subway building beneath it.) Faneuil Hall. Faneuil Hall Square. Also military museum of the Ancient and Honorable Artillery Company in their armory on the upper floors. Open from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., except Saturdays and Sundays. Free. King's Chapel. Tremont Street, corner of School Street. Dating from 1754. Interesting interior. King's Chapel Burying Ground. Tremont Street, adjoining the Chapel. Oldest in Boston, established at about the time of the settlement. Contains tombs of the Winthrops, John Cotton, Governor Leverett, and numerous other Colonial families. Granary Burying Ground. Tremont Street, midway between Beacon and Park streets. Dating from 1660. Tombs and graves of governors of the Colony and the Commonwealth, and of Samuel Adams, James Otis, John Hancock, Paul Revere, Peter Faneuil, the parents of Benjamin Franklin, with many others of distinction or interest. Park Street Church. Corner of Tremont and Park streets. Dating from 1809. Historic. Interesting specimen of early nineteenth-century architecture, notably the tower and spire. St. Paul's Church. Tremont Street, near Temple Place, opposite the Com- mon. Dating from 1820. Interesting interior. Pew No. 25 that of Daniel Webster. State House. Beacon Hill. Beacon Street and State House Park. Front part — the " Bulfinch Front" so called — built 1795-1797; the extension erected 1889-1895. Decorated interior. Numerous interesting features. Memorial Hall, with the battle flags, statues, and portraits. The " Bradford manuscript" in the State Library. State House- Park, with statues and monument. Shaw Monument. Beacon Street against the Common, opposite the State House. Memorial to Colonel Robert G. Shaw, commander of the first regiment of colored troops in the Civil War. A statue in high relief upon a bronze tablet. Boston Athenaeum. 10% Beacon Street. Proprietary library. Dating from 1807, oldest in the country. Interesting interior. 176 IMPORTANT POINTS OF INTEREST House of the Historic Genealogical Society. 18 Somerset Street. Contains the most extensive and valuable genealogical collection known. Open to visitors without fee or charge from 9 a.m. to 5.30 p.m. daily, except Sundays and holidays. Old West Church. Cambridge Street, corner of Lynde Street, West End. Now the West End Branch of the Public Library. Built in 1806. Interior architecture well preserved. Successor of the West Church of the Revolutionary period, which was occupied as barracks by the British, who pulled down the steeple and used it for firewood, the patriots having employed it for signaling the camp at Cambridge. Christ Church. Salem Street, North End. Oldest existing church in Boston. Interesting interior. Open daily. Fee, including view from the tower, 25 cents. Copp's Hill Burying Ground. Hull Street, opening opposite to Christ Church. Oldest part dating from 1660. Historic tombs and graves. Paul Revere' s House. North Square; also various other old houses and his- toric sites of the North End. Bunker Hill Monument. Monument Square, Charlestown District. A few minutes' ride on the elevated railway from the North Station station. Revolu- tionary relics in the lodge. Open from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. Fee, 20 cents. United States Navy Yard. Approach from City Square through Chelsea Street, Charlestown District. Naval Museum open from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Free. Natural History Museum. Berkeley Street, corner of Boylston Street, Back Bay. Open week days from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., with the exception of Wednesdays and Saturdays, when the hours are 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Free on these days ; fee at other times, 25 cents. Art Museum. Copley Square, Back Bay. Open week days from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., with the exception of Mondays, when the hours are 1 to 5 p.m. Free on Saturdays and Sundays (Sunday hours from 1 to 3 p.m.) ; fee other times, 25 cents. Public Library. Copley Square, Back Bay. Mural decorations by John S. Sargent, Edwin A. Abbey, and Puvis de Chavannes. Largest library in the world for free circulation. Open daily from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. (through the summer months; other seasons till 10 p.m.) ; Sunday from 2 to 9 p.m. (summer; 10 p.m. other seasons). Trinity Church. Copley Square. One of the richest examples of ecclesias- tical architecture in the country. Harvard University Buildings and Museums. Cambridge; less than thirty minutes' ride by electric car from the Subway or Copley Square. (See Cambridge and Harvard, pp. 98-109.) Various parts of the chain of parks comprised in the Boston City Parks System and the public reservations embraced in the Metropolitan Parks System are within easy reach by electric or steam cars (see Public Parks, pp. 146-151) ; and there are pleasant harbor excursions to be enjoyed occupying only a few hours or part of a day. (See Harbor and Bay, under Excursions and Tours, p. 171.) INDEX Abbey, Edwin A., 82. Aberdeen District, 115. Adams Academy, Quincy, 135. Adams, Charles Francis, Sr., birthplace, 34, 48; town house, 70. Adams, Charles Francis, Jr., 92; gift to Quincy Historical Society, 136. Adams, Henry, tomb, 135. Adams, Herbert, 77. Adams House, Boston, 34. Adams, John, portrait, 13, 14, 33 ; statue of, at Mt. Auburn, 108; gifts to Quincy, 135; birthplace, 136. Adams, John Quincy, portrait, 13, 14; site of mansion house, 34; tomb, 135; birth- place, 136. Adams mansion, Quincy, 136. Adams, Samuel, portrait, 13, 14; statue, in Adams Square, 15, 16; tomb, 26, 27, 48; statue at Lexington, 155. Adams Square, Boston, modern, 16. Adams Street, Milton, 131; Quincy, 136. Addington Road, Brookline, 114. African church, first, Boston, 69. Agassiz, Louis, monument, Alt. Auburn, 108. Alcott, A. Bronson, 71. Alcott, Louisa M., Boston homes, 71 ; Con- cord home, 156; grave, 157. Alcott family, homes, 156, 157, 158. Alden homestead, Duxbury, 168. Aldrich, Thomas Bailey, Boston homes, 70, 71. 73- Algerine Corner, Milton, 132. Algonquin Clubhouse, Boston, 80. Allston, Washington, head of, 86 ; home, 99. American Acad, of Arts and Sciences, 92. American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, 45, 46. American House (site of Warren's house), Boston, 18. American Peace Society, 30. American Unitarian Association, 45. American Waltham Watch Company, 127. Ames, Fisher, 137. Ames, Nathaniel, 137. Ancient and Hon. Artillery Company, ori- gin, 5; armory, 13; annual evolutions, 33. Andrew, Governor John A., portrait, 13, 41, 42 ; grave and statue at Hingham, 167. Andros, Lady, tomb, 23. Andros, Sir Edmund, 5 ; subscriber to King's Chapel, 24, 25 ; church organiza- tion coerced by, 52 ; refuge of, 53. Anthology Club (Boston Athenaeum), 46. Appleton Chapel, Cambridge, 101. Appleton, Samuel, 101. Appleton's pulpit, Saugus, 159. Apthorp, Rev. East, 109. Arborway, 146. Archbishop's house, Boston, 93. Aristides, statue, 70. Arlington, 152, 153. Arlington House (Cooper's Tavern), 152 Arlington Street Church, Boston, 77. Army and Navy Monument, Boston, 32. Arnold Arboretum and Bussey Park, 97 146. Arnold Arboretum and Jamaica Park, 97 Arsenal, Watertown, 128. Art Gallery, Maiden, 145. Art Museum, Boston, 46, 85, 86. Ashburton Place, Boston, 47. Aspinwall Hill, Brookline, 114. Athenaeum, Salem, 162. Athletic Clubhouse, 81. Atlantic Avenue, Boston, 10, 53. Avery oak, Dedham, 138. Back Bay, extent, 74 ; filling, 75 ; District, plan, v. Back Bay Park. See Fens. Back Bay station, 81. Baily, Rev. John, 26. Baker, William Emerson, 121. Ball, Thomas, statues by: of Andraw, 41 ; Quincy, 49; Washington, 77; Sumner, 77 ; birthplace, 68 ; group by, 94. Ballou Hall, Tufts College, 144. Ballou, Hosea, mon't, Mt. Auburn, 108. Bancroft, George, 11. Banks, Nathaniel Prentiss, 127. Banner, Peter, architect, 29. Baptist Church, present First, Boston, 57. Baptist Church, Cambridge, 99. Baptist Church, Newton Center, 125. Baptist meetinghouse, site of first, 56, 57. Barnum Museum, Tufts College, 144. Barre, Col. Isaac, 12. Barricado, site, 10. Bartholdi, architect, 80. Bartol, Cyrus A., home, 72 ; pulpit, 74. Bates, Joshua, 83. Battle flags, 42. Battle ground, Concord, 158. Battle of Lexington, painting, 155. Bay Psalm-book, 108. Bay State Road, 92. Beach Bluff, 160. Beachmont, 141, 142. Beacon, on Beacon Hill, 40, 41. Beacon Hill, original, 1, 68. Beacon Hill Reservoir, 69. Beacon Street, 39, 45, 68, 80. Beacon Street Mall illustrated, 31. 177 178 INDEX Beaver Brook and Waverley Oaks, 149. Beck Hall, Cambridge, 99. Bedford Street, Lexington, 155. Beethoven, statue of, 82. Belcher, Gov. Jonathan, 25; estate, 132. Belcher milestones, 132. Belknap, Rev. Jeremy, tomb, 26, 52. Belknap Street (now Joy Street), 69. Bell Alley (part of Prince Street), 59. Bellingham, Gov. Richard, 21, 26. Belmont Square, East Boston, 94. Bennington, trophies captured at, 44. Berkeley Temple, Boston, 93. Bethel, Father Taylor's, 59. Beverly, 161. Billings, Hammatt, architect, 122, 168, 169. Bishop, Bridget, death warrant, 165. Bishop house, Salem, 155. Bishop's Palace, Cambridge, 109. Black Horse Lane, 57. Black Horse Tavern, 152. Blackstone Street, 56. Blake, Francis, estate, 117. Blaxton, Rev. William, pioneer, 1, 68- Blaxton's spring, 70. 71. Blockade of Boston, the, farce, 14, Blue Bail, Sign of the, 55. Blue Hill Parkway, 134. Blue Hills Reservation, 3, 131, 133, 148. Board of Trade Building, Boston, 11. Bolton, Charles Knowles, 47. Booth, Edwin, home of, 72 ; grave of, 108. Boston, founded, 1 ; incorporated, 2 ; pop- ulation, 3 ; Postal District of, 3 ; Post Office Department, 3. Boston American Baseball Club, no. Boston Art Clubhouse, 81. Boston Athenaeum, 46, 47. Boston Athletic Association, 116. Boston Basin, 3. Boston City Club, 47. Boston City Hospital, 93. Boston City Parks System, 64, 146-14S. Boston College, 93. Boston Common, surroundings, 31-34; old print of, 45 ; 146. Boston., frigate, site of shipyard, 64. Boston Massacre, site, 5, 17; graves of victims, 26, 28, 51. Boston Medical Library, 91. Boston Museum, site, 91 ; picture of, 21. Boston Museum of Fine Arts, 46, 85, 86. Boston pier, original, 10. Boston Sconce (South Battery), 10. Boston Society of Natural History, 89. " Boston Stone, 1737," 56. Boston Street, Salem, 166. Boston Symphony Orchestra, 30. Boston Tea Party, 16, 51. See also Tea Party Wharf. Boston Theater, 34. Boston University, 47, 81. Bostonian Society, 9. Bosworth Street, Boston, 25. Bow Street, Cambridge, 109. Bowditch, Nathaniel, 108. Bowdoin, Gov. James, 17; tomb, 26. Bowlder (Lexington), 155. Boylston, Dr. Zabdiel, 112. Boylston house, Brookline, 113. Boylston Street, Brookline, in. Boylston, Ward Nicholas, 103. Brackett, Walter M., 9. Bradford, Gov. William, site of house, Plymouth, 169; monument to, 170. Bradford, Maj. John, house, Kingston, 168. Bradford Manuscript, 43, 51, 168. Bradstreet, Simon, 162; grave, 163. Braintree, 2. Brattle Square Church, 79 ; site, 17 ; cannon ball, 92. Brattle Street, Boston, 16, 17. Brattle Street, Cambridge, 107. Brattle, Thomas, Jr., 23. Brattle, Thomas, Sr., tomb, 23. Brazer's Building, 5. Brazier's Inn (later Hancock Tavern), 15 Brazier, Madam, 15. Breed's Hill, site of Bunker Hill Monu- ment, 16. Breed's Island, 2, 141, Brewster, Elder, 168. Brick Meetinghouse, Boston, 6. Bridge, John, statue of, 105. Bridge, Rev. Thomas, 22. Brigham, Charles E., 40. Brighton District, Boston, 3, 97. Brimstone Corner, 29. British Coffee House, 7. Broad Street, Salem, 166. Broad's Hill, Natick, 123. Brook Farm, 97. Brooklawr., 126. Brookline, 2, 109-115. Brookline Reservoir, 112. Brooks, Phillips, 48 ; rector of Trinity Church, 87; grave, 108. Brooks, Richard F., 77. Brunswick Hotel, 81. Bryant, J. G. F., 40. Buckman Tavern, Lexington, 155. Bulnnch, Charles, architect, 23; designer of " Bulnnch Front," 12, 40, 41, 43, 60, 74, 103. Bulkeley, Peter, 158. Bunch-of-Grapes Tavern, 6, 7. Bunker Hill, 68. Bunker Hill Monument, 65 ; description, 66-68; Association, 44, 67. Burgoyne. Gen. John, 14, 51, 109, 127. Burial Hill, Plymouth, 169. Burlingame, Anson, portrait, 13 ; monu- ment, Mt. Auburn, 108. Burnet, Gov., 25. Burns, Anthony, meeting against rendition of, 15; riot over, 19. Burying ground, Arlington, 153; Milton, 132; Quincy, 135; Salem (Broad Street) INDEX 179 166, (Charter Street) 163; Watertown, 129; ancient Town, Brookline, 112; Ye Old, Lexington, 155. Burying Hill, Marshfield, 168. Business Quarter, Boston, 3. Bussey Park, 146. Buttrick, Maj. John, memorial, 42; grave, Byles, Rev. Mather, 34. Bynner, Edwin L., 59. Cabot house, Salem, 166. Cadet Armory, Salem, 162. Cambridge, 98-109. Cambridge Common, 105. Camp Hill, East Boston, 94. Caner, Mr., rector of King's Chapel, 24. Canoeing, 116. Cape Ann, 3. Capen, E. H., Pres. Tufts College, 144. Capen, Hopestill, 56. Captain's Hill, Duxbury, 168. "Careswell," Marshfield, 168. Carey Public Library, Lexington, 155. Cass, Col. Thomas, statue of, 77. Castle Island, 147. Cathedral of the Holy Cross, Boston, 93. Cattle Market, Watertown, 128. Central Burying Ground, Boston, 34. Central Church, Boston, 79. Central District, Boston, 3, 4. Central Hill, Somerville, 143. Gentry" Hill, 41. Chamber of Commerce, 11. Chandler's Pond, 115, 119. Change (formerly Flagg) Alley, 15. Channing, William Ellery, Boston pulpit, 53 ; home, 70 ; statue of, 77 ; monument, Mt. Auburn, 108. Charles River banks, 149. Charles River village, 123. Charles Street, 72, 73. Charles Street Jail, 73. Charlesbank, 73, 148. Charlesgate, 92. Charlestown, first settlement of, 1, 66; annexed to Boston, 2, 3, 65-68. Charlestown Bridge, 57. Charlestown ferry, 57. Charlestown Heights, 147. Charter Street, Boston, 57, 64. Charter Street, Salem, 163. Cheapside (subsequently Cornhill), 16. Checkley tomb, 27. Chelsea, 2, 142, 143. Cheney estate, 121. Cherry Street, Cambridgeport, 99. Chestnut Hill Park, 148. Chestnut Hill Reservoir, 114. Chestnut Street, Boston, 72. Chestnut Street, Salem, 165, Cheverus, John, 15. Chickatawbut Hill, 133, Chickering Hall, 90. Child, Lydia Maria, 59. Child, Tom, 56. Chilton, Mary, 23. Choate, Rufus, portrait, 13 ; statue, 20. Christ Church, Boston, 59-61. Christ Church, Cambridge, 106. Christ Church burial ground, Braintree, 136. Church, Benjamin, 23. Church of England established in the Colony, 24. Church of the Advent, Boston, 73. Church of Christ, Scientist, 90. Church of the Disciples, Boston, 111. Church of the Immaculate Conception, 93. Churches, convenient, in Boston, ix, x. City Hall, Boston, 3, 48, 49; Cambridge, 99; Newton, 118; Quincy, 135; Salem, 166; Somerville, 144. City Point, South Boston, 95. City Square, Charlestown, 66. Cla'flin estate, 126. Claflin School, Newtonville, 126. Clarendon Street Baptist Church, Boston, 94. Clark- Frankland mansion, site of, 59. Clark house, Brookline, 112. Clarke, James Freeman, 48; note from Hawthorne to, 71, 94. Clarke, Jonas, Lexington, 155. Clifton Heights, 150. Clough, George A., architect, 20. Clyde Park, 113. Cockerel Church, Boston, 58. Codfish, the historic, 9, 43. Cohasset, 167. Cole's Hill, Plymouth, 169. College Hill, Medford, 144. College of Pharmacy, Boston, 89. College Settlement, Boston, 94. Collins house, Danvers, 161. Colonial Club, Cambridge, 100. Colonial prison, Boston, 19. Colonial Theater, Boston, 34. Columbus Avenue, 94. Columbus statues : Louisburg Square, 70 ; Cathedral grounds, 93. Committee of Correspondence, Boston, 14. Commonwealth Avenue, 74; statues in, 78, 79, 146. Commonwealth Avenue Parkway, 146. Concord, 1C6-159; routes to, 152; map of ; 156. Concord Antiquarian Society, 156. Concord Reformatory, 159. Concord schools, 159. Congregational House, 45 ; Pilgrim Hall in, 46. Congress Street. Boston, former, 4 ; pres- ent, 46. Constihdion, timber sought for, 139. Constitution Wharf, Boston, 64. Continental forts, sites of, Somerville, 143, i8o INDEX Conway, Field Marshal, 12. Coolidge, John, gift of descendants of, to Watertown, 129. Coolidge, T. Jefferson, 104. Cooper's Tavern, site, 152. Copley, John Singleton, portraits by, 13, 38 ; site of house, 39 ; estate, 68, 86 ; sometime home of, at Salem, 166. Copley Square, car lines passing through, vi; surroundings, 80. Copley Square Hotel, 81. Copp, William (gave name to Copp's Hill), 62, 64. Copp's Hill, 59-65. Copp's Hill Burying Ground, 61-64. Copp's Hill Terrace, 64, 147. Corey, Giles, "witchcraft" victim, Salem, 164. Corey Hill, Brookline, 114. Corinthian Yacht Clubhouse, 160. Corn Court, 15. Cornhill, 16. Corwin, George, sheriff, 162 ; witchcraft memorials of, Salem, 165 ; grave, 166. Corwin, Judge Jonathan, 165. Cottage Hill, Winthrop, 139. Cotton Hill, Boston, site, 20. Cotton, Rev. John, preacher, 5 ; estate, 20; tomb, 22 ; original farm, 114. Country Club, Brookline, 113. County Jail, Boston, 73 ; Salem, 160. Court House of 1692, Salem, 165. Court House, present, Boston, 20; Ded- ham, 138 ; Plymouth, 169 ; Salem, 160. Court Park, Winthrop, 140. Court Street, 16, 19. Cow (or Horse) Pond, Boston Common, 33. Craddock house, Medford, 145. Cradle of American Liberty, 14. Cranch, Richard, 166. Crane Public Library, Quincy, 135. Crawford, Thomas, statues by, of Bee- thoven, 82 ; James Otis, 108; head of, 86. Creek Lane, 56. Crescent Beach, 141. Crispus Attucks Monument, 33. Crystal Lake, Newton, 126. Cummings & Sears, architects, 88. Cushing, Lieut. Gov. Thomas, tomb of, 26. Cushman, Charlotte, 25 ; birthplace, 58 ; monument, Mt. Auburn, 108. Cushmans, graves of the, Plymouth, 170. Cushman School, Boston, 58. Custom House, Boston, n ; Salem, 160, 163. Daille, Rev. Pierre, 26. Dana Hall School, Wellesley, 120. Dana, Richard H., Sr., 72. Dana, Richard H., Jr., 107. Danvers, 161. Dasset Alley (now Franklin Avenue), 17. Davenport, Rev. John, tomb of, 22. Davis, Capt. Isaac, 42. Davis Square, West Somerville, 144. Dawes, Col. Thomas, monument to, 22. Daye, Stephen, first printer, 108. Dedham, 137-139. Dedham Historical Society, 137-139. Deland, Margaret, homes of, 70, 72. Denison House, Boston, 94. Derby Street, Salem, 163. Deshon, Moses, artisan, 9, 14. D'Estaing, allusion to, 56. Devens, Maj. Gen. Charles, statue of, 44. Dexter, Mrs. Wirt, gate given to Harvard by, 100. Dickens, Charles, in Boston, 25. Diocesan House, 69. Dock Square, 4, 16. Dorchester District, 1, 3, 97. Dorchester Heights, 95. Dorchester Neck, 2. Dorchester Park, 147. Dorchesterway, 147. Doublet Hill, 'Weston, 117. Downing-Bradstreet house, Salem, 162. Dowse Library, 91. Drowne, "Deacon" Shem, artificer, 13; 52, 58; grave of, 62. Dudley, Gov. Joseph, 25 ; milestones set up by, 106. Dudley, Thomas, 108. Dudleys, tomb of the, 96. Duel, first fought in Boston, 7. Dummer, Gov. William, 26. Dunster, Henry, 6. Dunster Street, Cambridge, 108. Durant, Henry F., Wellesley College, 122 Durant, Pauline A. F., 122. Duxbury, 168. East Boston, 2, 3, 94 ; tunnel to, 10. Eastern Yacht Clubhouse, 160. East India Marine Building, Salem, 162. East Lexington, 153. East Street, Dedham, 138. Echo Bridge, 124, 149. Edward Everett Square, Dorchester, 75. Egg Rock, off Nahant, 159. Elevated Road, time tables furnished by, vii; lessee of Subway, 36; map of, 37. Eliot, Andrew, minister of the New North Church, 59, 60. Eliot, President Chas. W., inscriptions on monuments by, 24, 32, 37; pupil of Latin School, 48; residence, 100. Eliot, John, son of Andrew, minister, 60. Eliot, John, the " apostle," 5 ; site of church of, Roxbury, 95 ; tomb, 96. Eliot Church, South Natick, 123. Eliot Monument, Newton, 118 ; South Natick, 123. Eliot Oak, South Natick, 123. Eliot School, North End, 57. Elliott, John, 83. Elmwood Avenue, Cambridge, 107. Emancipation Group, Park Square, 94. INDEX 181 Emerson, Dr. Edward W-, 159. Emerson, Ellen, 156. Emerson, Ralph Waldo, pupil of Latin School, 48; 51; minister Second Church, Boston, 58, 88, 100; home of, Concord, 156; in Old Manse, 157; grave, 157. Emerson, Rev. William, 46, 79. Emerson house, Concord, 156. Emmanuel Church, 78. Endicott, Gov. John, 1; site of house, Boston, 20; site of house, Salem, 166; portraits, 166. Endicott, William C, 165. English High School, Boston, 93 ; Cam- bridge, 99; Somerville, 144. Episcopal Church Association, 69. Episcopal church, second, established, 60. Episcopal Theological School, 107. Ericson, Leif , statue, 79 ; supposed site of house, 107, 108. Essex Institute, Salem, 161, 162. Essex Street, Salem, 162, 165. Ether Monument, 74, 76. Eustis, Gov. William, 155. Everett, Edward, portrait, 13; statue, 41, 45) 48, 76, 107 ; grave of, Mt. Auburn, 108. Evergreen Cemetery, Brookline, 115. Everett, Edward, Square, 75. Exchange Building, 11. Exchange Street, former, 4. Excursions and tours, 171-174. Exeter Street, 89. Eye and Ear Infirmary, 73. Fairbanks house, Dedham, 138. Faneuil, Peter, 8, 12, 14; successors, 14; mansion, 21 ; tomb, 26. Faneuil Hall, location, 4, n ; description, 12,13; the second, 14; lottery for, 14; surroundings, 15. Faneuil Hall Market, 16. Faneuil Hall Square, 15 ; west side, 16. Farnsworth, Isaac D., gift to Wellesley College, 122. Farragut, Admiral, statue of, 95. Fay House, Cambridge, 106. Federal Building, 52, 53. Federal Street, 53. Federal Street, Salem, 161, 164. Federal Street Church, 53. Federal Street Theater, 53. Fellsmere, 145. Fellsway, 141. Felton, President, sometime home of, 100. Fens, 91, 92, no, 146. Fields, James T., " Curtained Corner " of, 49; home of, 73. Fields, Mrs. Annie, 73. First Baptist Church (present), 17, 79 ; first meetinghouse, site of, 56. First Meetinghouse, Salem, 162. First Parish Church, Brookline, 112. First Parish Church, Quincy, 135. First Parish meetinghouse, Watertown, 129. First Religious Society in Roxbury, 95. First (afterward North) Street, 57. Flagg (afterward Change) Alley, 15. Fogg Art Museum, Harvard Univ., 101. Follen Church, East Lexington, 153. " Foot of the Rocks," Arlington, 153. Forbes family estates, Milton, 132. Ford Building, 47. Forest Hills Cemetery, 97. Fort Banks, Winthrop, 140. Fort Heath, Winthrop, 140. Fort Hill Square, 53. Fort Independence, 147. Fort Sewall, Marblehead, 160. Forts : Boston, 147 ; Revolutionary, Rox- bury, 95 ; Marblehead, 160; first, at Ply- mouth, 170; Winthrop, 140. Foster, John, 64, 77. Foster Lane, 64. Fowle, Marshall, 128. Frankland, Sir Harry, 59. Franklin, Benjamin, printing office, work place of, 17 ; mon't to parents of, 27 ; at Latin School, 48 ; statue, 48; birthplace, 52 ; place of baptism, 52 ; boyhood home, 55 ; origin of ballad by, 63 ; gift of, to Harvard, 104. Franklin, James, brother of Benjamin, 17. Franklin, Josiah, dwelling and shop, 55 ; tomb of Franklin and his wife, 26 ; mon- ument, 28. Franklin Avenue, 16, 17. Franklin Field, 147. Franklin Park, 96, 147. Free Masons' hall, first, 55. Freeman, Rev. James, King's Chapel, 24. French, Daniel C, statues by : Rufus Choate, 20; Gov. Wolcott, 43; Maj. Gen. Hooker, 44 ; John Harvard, 104 ; the Minuteman, 82, 97, 158. French's redoubt, 143. Frog Pond, Boston Common, 32, 33. Frothingham, Richard, 61. Fuller, Margaret, birthplace, 99; monu- ment, Mt. Auburn, 108. Gage, Gen. Thomas, 6t, 104; headquarters, Danvers, 161. Gallop, Capt. John, 62. Gallop's Island, 62. Galloupe house, 62. Gallows Hill, Salem, 160, 166. Gardner, Mrs. John L., art museum, in, 112. Gardner Circle, Brookline, 114. Gardner family tomb, Brookline, 112. Garnsey, Elmer E., 83. Garrison, Wm. Lloyd, first public anti- slavery address, 29; first office of the Liberator, 53 ; mobbing of, 53 ; statue, 78; home, 96 ; tomb, 97. General Theological Library, 69. 182 INDEX Gerrish's, Col., regiment (Revolution), 142. Gerry, Elbridge, at Black Horse Tav- ern, 152. Gilbert, John, tomb, 97. Gilman, Rev. Samuel, author of "Fair Harvard," 106. Ginn & Company, publishing house, 37, 38, 47 ; Athenaeum Press, 98. Girls' High School, 93. Gloucester, 161, 171. Glover, Gen. John, statue of, 78. Goddard Chapel, Tufts College, 144. Goddard Gymnasium, Tufts College, 144. Goddard house, Brookline, 113. Goffe, regicide, 109. Goodell, Abner C, Salem, 164. Goose, Mary, 29. Gore, Gov. Christopher, tomb, 26; gift of Gore Hall, Harvard, 100; house, 12S. Gould, Helen M., gift to Wellesley Col- lege, 122. Gould, Marshall S. and Thomas R., statue of Bridge by, 105. Gould, Thomas R., statues by: Hancock (Lexington), 155; Andrew, 167; (with Marshall S. Gould), Bridge (Cambridge), 105. Governor Gore house, Waltham, 128. Governor Hutchinson Field, Milton, 151. Governor's Alley (Province Street), 52. Grammar school, Boston, first, 60. Granary, the town, 30. , Granary Burying Ground, site, 8, 25, 26. Grand Lodge of Mass., 35; of the Prov- ince, first, 55. Granite Temple, Quincy, 135. Gray, Francis C., gift of Gray's Hall to Harvard, 103. Gray, Judge Horace, house of, 70. Great Blue Hill Observatory, 133. Great Cove, 4, 10. Great Elm, Boston Common, 32. Great Fire of 1711, 6, 8; of 1760, 7; of 1872, 53, 87. Great Head, Winthrop, 140. " Great House" of the governor, Charles- town, 66. Greater Boston, 3. Green, Dr. Samuel A., 92. Green Dragon Tavern, site, 55. Green Lane (now Salem Street), 56. Greenough, Richard, statue of Franklin by, 48 ; statue of Winthrop by, 108 ; Bunker Hill Monument devised by, 67. Greenwood, Francis W. P., grave of,- 62. Griffin's Wharf, scene of Boston Tea Party, s 4 . Griffith, Vincent C, 77. Grover's Cliff, Winthrop, 140. Hale, Edward Everett, birthplace, 25 ; homes, 47, 96 ; at Latin School, 48 ; pul- pit, 89. Hale, Nathan, 47. Hamilton, Alexander, statue of, 78. Hamilton Place, 30. Hancock, Ebenezer, 56. Hancock, Lydia, 39. Hancock, Rev. John, grandfather of Gov. Hancock, tomb in Lexington, 155. Hancock, Rev. John, 2d (father of Gov. Hancock), grave in Quincy, 135. Hancock, Gov. John, 13; store, 15, 17; tomb, 26, 27, 28; monument, 27, 28; mansion, 37-39, 47 ; at Latin School, 48; supposed house of, at Point Shirley, 139 ; at Lexington, 155 ; statue, 155. Hancock, Thomas, 39. Hancock Avenue, 37. Hancock-Clarke house, Lexington, 155. Hancock estate, 40. Hancock Hill, Milton, 133. Hancock house, 37-39, 47. Hancock monument, 27, 28. Hancock Row, Boston, 56. Hancock Street, Boston, 69 ; Quincy, 136 ; Lexington, 155. Hancock Tavern, 15. Hancock's Wharf, 65. Handel and Haydn Society, 90. Harrington, Jonathan, Sr., East Lexing- ton, 153. Harrington, Jonathan, fifer to the minute- men, Lexington, 153. Harrington, Jonathan, a minuteman killed at Lexington, 155. Harrington houses, East Lexington, 153 ; Lexington, 155. Harrison, Peter, architect, 23, 106. Hart's Hill, Wakefield, 150. Hartt, Edmund, grave of, 62, 64. Harvard, John, monument, 66; site of dwelling of, 66 ; supposed place of grave, 66; statue, 104. Harvard Bridge, 109. Harvard Cooperative Association, 103. Harvard Dental School, 74. Harvard Library, 100. Harvard Medical School, 74, 81, in. Harvard Musical Association, 30, 72. Harvard Observatory, 100, 108. Flarvard Union, 100. Harvard University, 99-108 ; gates, 100,101 ; library, 100 ; Sever Hall, 101 ; Appleton Chapel, 101 ; Fogg Art Museum, 101 ; Phillips Brooks House, 101 ; dormitories, 101-103 ; Hemenway Gymnasium, 103; Lawrence Scientific School, 103 ; Labora- tory, 104; Memorial Hall, 104; Robinson Hall, 104 ; old gymnasium, 104 ; Miner- alogical Museum, 104 ; Semitic Museum, 104 ; Divinity Hall, 104 ; Peabody Mu- seum, 104 ; University Museum, 104 ; Botanical Museum, 104 ; Museum of Comparative Zoology, 104 ; Geological Museum, 104 ; Law School, 104 ; Rad- cliffe College, 106 ; Soldier's Field, 107 ; Observatory, 108 ; Botanic Garden, 108. INDEX 'S3 Hathorne, Judge, of the " witchcraft court," Salem, 163. Haven, Judge Samuel, house, Dedham, 138. Hawthorne, Nathaniel, customs officer, Boston, n; the prison in the "Scarlet Letter," 19; scene of the " Legends of the Province House," 52 ; birthplace, Salem, 61 ; note from, to J. F. Clarke, 71 ; later homes in Salem, 163, 164, 165 ; mementos of, Salem, 163 ; in Old Manse, and the Wayside, Concord, 157 ; grave, 157. Hawthorne's Walk, Concord, 157. Haymarket Theater, site, 34. Healy, G. P. A., 12. Hemenway, Augustus, gift of, to Harvard, 103. Hemenway, Mrs. Mary, 51. Hemenway Street, 91. Hemlock Gorge, Newton Upper Falls, 124; Reservation, 149. Henchman, Daniel, bookshop of, 5. Henry L. Pierce Building, 88. Hibbens, Anne, 32. Higginson, Henry L., patron of Boston Symphony Orchestra, 30; one of the donors of Harvard Union, 100; donor of Soldier's Field to Harvard, 107. Higginson, Thomas W., 19. High School, Lexington, 154; Milton, 133; Newtonville, 126; Salem, 166; Somer- ville, 144; Wellesley, 120. High Street, Boston, the original, 5 ; Ded- ham, 137, 138. Highland Park, 95. Highland Street, 95. Highlandville, 123. Hillard, George S., homes of, 71. Hillside Burying Ground, Concord, 157. Hingham, 167, 170. Hoar, E. R., Judge, 157; birthplace, 158. Hoar, George F., 43; birthplace, 158. Hoar, Leonard, tomb of, 135. Hoar family, monuments, Concord, 157; homes, Concord, 158. Hog (Breed's) Island, 2. Holbrook mansion, Milton, 132. Holden, Madame , gift of , to Harvard, 101. Hollis, Thomas, gift of, to Harvard, 10 1. Hollis Street Church, 34; united with South Congregational, 89. Hollis Street Theater, 34. Holmes, Oliver Wendell, quoted, 17, 29 ; memorial tablet in King's Chapel, 24; homes of, 25, 38, 47, 51, 73, 80; me- mentos of, in Boston Medical Library, 91 ; birthplace, 105 ; grave, 108. Holmes Hall, Boston Medical Library, 91. Homeopathic Hospital, 47, 93. Hooker, Maj. Gen. Joseph, statue of, 44. Hooper house, Danvers, 161. Horse(or Cow) Pond, Boston Common, 33. Horsford, Eben N., Norse memorials by, .108, 117, 126, 129. Horticultural Hall, 90. Hotels, principal, of Boston, viii. Houdon, Jean Antoine, sculptor, 61. Hough's Neck, 171. Houghton, Mifflin & Co., publishing house of, 45. House of the Good Shepherd, in. " House of the Seven Gables," 164. Howard Street, Salem, 164. Howe, Julia Ward, homes of, 72, 80. Howe, Samuel G., founder of Perkins Institution for the blind, 95 ; grave, 108. Howells, William D., 71. Howland, John, grave, Plymouth, 170. Hull, 170. Hull, John, the " mint master," 21 ; tomb, 27, 61. Hull, Maj. Gen. William, grave, Newton, 125; former estate, 126. Hull Street, origin of name, 61. Hunnewell, H. Hollis, gifts to Wellesley, 120; estate, 121. Huntington Avenue, 75. Huntington Avenue station, 81. Huntington Hall, 89. Hutchinson, Anne, 50. Hutchinson, Gov. Thomas, birthplace, 58, 59; seat in Milton, 131. Hutchinson tomb (Copp's Hill), desecra- tion of, 63. Important points of interest in Boston, Indian of old Province House, 92. Indian Bible, Eliot's, 108. Independence Monument (first), 41. Information Bureaus at railroad stations, vii. Ingersoll family, home, Salem, 164. Institute of Technology, the Mass., 81 ; buildings, 88. Institution Hill, Newton, 125. Isabella Stuart Gardner, Museum of Arts, Jack, John, slave, Concord, 157. Jackson, Brig. Gen. Michael, grave of, 125. Jacob Sleeper Hall. See Boston Univer- sity. Jamaica Park, 146. Jamaica Plain, 97. Jamaicaway, 146. Jeffries, B. Joy, 72. Jeffries Point, East Boston, 139. Jerusalem Road, Cohasset, 167. Jewett, Sarah Orne, home of, 73. Johnson, Ellen C, memorial to, 91. Johnson, Isaac, colonist, 1. Joy Street (formerly Belknap Street), 69. Judson, Adoniram, grave of, 170. Julien, M., grave of, 34. Keayne, Capt. Robert, site of house of, 5 ; will, 10. 184 INDEX Keith's Th-ater, 34. Kemble, Fanny, 25. Keyes, Judge, historic house of Concord, Kidd, Capt., in colonial prison, 19. Kidder, Henry P., estate, Milton, 132. Kilby Street, origin of name, 7. Kimball, Moses, 94. King (now State) Street, 7. King, Thomas Starr, 34. King's Beach and Lynn Shore Reservation, 150, 160. King's Chapel, description, 23, 24, 25, 48. King's Chapel Burying Ground, 21. Kingston, 168. Kitson, H. H., sculptor, 95. Knox, Henry, bookshop of, 5, 13, 95. Kraus, Robert, sculptor, 33. La Fargc, John, decorations by, 86. Lafayette, the Marquis de, 35, 43, 67; in Salem, 161. Lafayette Mall, 34. Lafresn?.ye Collection, 89. Lake, Capt. Thomas, 63. Lamb Tavern, 34. Lander, Gen. F. W., grave of, 166. Langdon, Samuel, at Latin School, 48. Lasell Seminary, 120. Lathrop, Rev. John, minister of Old North Church, grave of, 26 ; site of dwelling, 58; portrait in Second Church, 88. Latin School, Boston. See Public Latin School. Latin School, Cambridge, 99; Roxbury, 96; Salem, 166. Lawrence, Abbott, former residence, 45; gift to Harvard, 104. Lawrence schoolhouse, South Boston, 95. Lee, Gen. Charles, headquarters of, 144. Lee, Henry, 51; estate, Brookline, 113. Lee, Col. Jeremiah, at Black Horse Tavern, 152. Lee, Jesse, grave of, 62. Lee, Thomns, gifts of, to city, 76, 78. Lefavour, Henry, 90. Leslie, Lieut. Col., at Salem Bridge, 165. Leverett, Gov. John, site of house, 6; tomb, 23. Leverett, John (president of Harvard), at Latin School, 48. Leverett Park, 146. Leverett Pond, in. Leverett's Lane, 4. Lewis's Wharf, 64, 65. Lexington, 154, 155; arms captured at, 44; routes to, 152; map, 154; Lexington Green, 154. Lexington Street, Lexington, 156. Leyden Street, Plymouth, 170. Liberator, first offices of, 53. Liberty Tree, 34. Liberty Tree Tavern, Boston, 35. Lind, Jenny, in Boston, 71. Lodge, Henry Cabot, former Boston home, 70; at Nahant, 159. Long, John D., Hingham home of, 167. " Long Path," Holmes's, Boston Common, 39- Long Wharf, 10. Longfellow, A. W., architect, ior. Longfellow, Alden & Harlow, architects, 99. Longfellow, Alice, 107. Longfellow, H. W., 71 ; house, Cambridge, 107 ; grave, 108. Longfellow house, Cambridge, 107. Loring, Judge, Winthrop estate, 140. Louisburg Square, 70, 71. Louis Philippe in Boston, 15. Love Lane (now Tileston Street), 60. Lovell, John, master Latin School, 14. Lowell, Augustus, estate, Brookline, 113. Lowell, Rev. Charles, pulpit, 74; grave, 108. Lowell, James Russell, 33, 37, 51; home of, Cambridge, 107 ; grave, 108. Lowell, Judge John, Winthrop estate, 140. Lowell, John, Jr., founder of Lowell Insti- tute, 89. Lowell, Percival, house of, 72. Lowell House, Cambridge, 107. Lowell Institute, 89. Lowell School of Practical Design, 89. Lowell Street, Concord, 158. Lyman, Arthur T., 147. Lyman, Theodore, estate, Brookline, 113. Lynde, Benjamin, 1st and 2d, graves of, 163. Lynn, 159. Lynn Shore Reservation, 150. Lynn Woods, 150. Mackerel Lane (now Kilby Street), 6, 7. McKim, Charles F., architect, 37, 102. McKim, Mead & White, architects, 85, 100. MacMonnies, Frederick, statue by, 82. Magazine Street, Cambridge, 99. Main Guardhouse (1768-1770), 5. Main Street, Medford, 145. Majestic Theater, 34. Malcom, Capt. Daniel, gravestone of, 63. Mall Street, Salem, 164. Manchester-by-the-Sea, 161. Mann, Horace, statue of, 41. Manual Training School, Cambridge, 99. Marblehead, 160. Marblehead Neck, 160. Marine Biological Laboratory, Woods Hole, 173. Marine Hospital, Chelsea, 143. Marine Park, South Boston, 95, 147. Market Street (afterward Cornhill), 16. Marshall Fowle house, Watertown, 128. Marshall's Lane (now Street), 55, 56. Marshfield, 168. Masconomo House, Manchester-by-the- Sea, 161. INDEX 85 Mason, Dr. Lowell, 29. Masonic Temple, 35. Massachusetts Association of the New Jerusalem Church, 78. Massachusetts Avenue, extent of, 75 ; in Arlington, 152, 153. Massachusetts Charitable Eye and Ear Infirmary. See Eye and Ear Infirmary. Massachusetts Charitable Mechanic Asso- ciation, 81. Massachusetts College of Pharmacy. See College of Pharmacy. Massachusetts General Hospital, 73, 74. Massachusetts Historical Society, 16, 17; founder of, 26, 52; building, 91. Massachusetts Homeopathic Hospital. See Homeopathic Hospital. Massachusetts Horticultural Society. See Horticultural Society. Massachusetts Institute of Technology. See Institute of Technology. Massachusetts Normal Art School. See Normal Art School. Massachusetts Spy, 56. Massacre of 1770, 7. Mather, Cotton, at Latin School, 48; minister of the Old North Church, 58 ; tomb, 62, 88. Mather, Increase, site of house, North Square, 57; Hanover Street house, 60; tomb, 62, 142. Mather, Mrs. Increase, grave in Brook- line, 112. Mather, Nathaniel, grave in Salem, 163. Mather, Richard, tomb, in Dorchester, 97. Mather, Rev. Samuel, house, 59; tomb, 62. Mather-Eliot house, 60. Mathers, Church of the, 58. Mattapan, 134. Matthews, Nathan, gift of, to Harvard, 103. Matthews, Nathan, Jr., 36. Maugus Hill, Wellesley, 120. Maverick, Samuel, fortified house of, 94, 143- Mead, Edwin D., 51. Medford, 145. Meetinghouse Hill, Dorchester, 97. Memorial Fountain ( Ellen C . Johnson), 9 1 . Memorial Hall, Cambridge, 49 ; Dedham, 137; Lexington, 155. Menotomy, early name of Arlington, 152. Merchants' Exchange, n. Merchants Row, 7. " Merrymount," 136. Merwin, Henry C, house of, 72. Metropolitan District, cities and towns in, 98. Metropolitan Sewerage District Depart- ment, 3. Metropolitan System of Parks, 3, 148-151. Metropolitan Water Board, 3, 117. Metropolitan Water District, 3. Meyer, George von L., gift of, to Har- vard, 101. Middlesex Fells, 145, 149. Military Company of Massachusetts, first, 5. Milk Street, 52, 53. Mill Bridge, 56. Mill Creek (now Blackstone Street), 56. Mill Pond, filling, 41, 51, 56. Mill Street, Salem, 166. Milmore, Martin, monuments by : in Bos- ton, 32; Charlestown, 65; Mt. Auburn, 108 ; statues by : in Boston, 78 ; Lexing- ton, 155; tomb of, 97. Milton, 130-134. Milton Academy, 133. Milton Churches, 133. Milton Lower Mills, 130. Minuteman statue : Lexington, 155; Con- cord, 158. Misery Island, 160. Monument Street, Concord, 157. More, Richard, Mayflower passenger, grave of, 163. Morse Institute Library, Natick, 123. Morse, Rev. Jedidiah, 66. Morse, Samuel F. B., birthplace of, 66. Morse, Sidney H., sculptor, 88. Morton, Dr. W. T. G., monument to, 74. " Mother Brook," 137. Mother Goose, 29. Motley, John Lothrop, house of, 45 ; at Latin School, 48; boyhood home, 72. Moulson, Lady Anne, 106. Moulton's Point, 65. Mt. Auburn Cemetery, 108. Mt. Auburn Street, Cambridge, 107. Mt. Vernon Street, 47, 72. Mt. Wollaston, 136. Muddy River, 92, 109. Munroe's Tavern, Lexington, 154. Murray, W. H. H., 31. Murray's Barracks, 17. Museum of Fine Arts. See Art Museum. Museum School of Drawing and Painting, 86. Music Hall, old, 30. Myers, James J., 103. Myles, Rev. Samuel, 60. Mystic ponds, 145. Mystic River banks, 149. Mystic Street, Arlington, 152. Nahant, 159. Nantasket Beach Reservation, 148. Napoleon willow, 64. Natick, 123. National Monument, Plymouth, 168. Natural History Museum, 81, 89. Naval Hospital, Chelsea, 143. Navy Yard, Charlestown, 65. Needham, 123. Neponset River, 134. Neponset River banks, 148. New Brick (afterward Cockerel) Church, 58. S6 INDEX New Church Union, 78. New England Children's Hospital, 91. New England Conservatory of Music, go. New England Historic Genealogical Soci- ety, 47- New Jerusalem Church, headquarters, 78. New Old South Church, 87. Newman, Robert, site of home of, 61. Newspaper Row, 52. Newton Boat Club, 116. Newton Boulevard, 115, 116. Newton Cemetery, 125. Newton Center burying ground, 125. Newton Club, 126. Newton Highlands, 125. Newton Hospital, 120. Newton Lower Falls, 117, 120. Newton Theological Institution, 125. Newton Upper Falls, 124. Newtons, the, 116-119, 124-126. Nonantum, 119; present village, 126. Nook's Hill, South Boston, 95. Normal Art School, 89. Norse Memorials. See Horsford. North Battery (Battery Wharf), 10, 64. North Bridge, Salem, 165. North Cambridge tablets, 152. North Church. See Old North Church. North Cove, 41. North End, 3, 4, 54-65; beach, 147. North End (afterward the Eliot) School, 57. North. Grove Street, 24. North Shore, 159-166. North Square, 57, 58. North Station, Boston, vii. North Street, 57. Norumbega Park, 116. Norumbega Tower, 117. Nourse, Rebecca, witchcraft victim, 161. Ocean Spray, 139. " Old Corner Bookstore," 49. Old Court House, 18, 19, 48. Old Manse, Concord, 157. Old North Bridge, Concord, 157, 158. Old North Church, 58, 61. Old Powder House, Somerville, 144. Old Ship Church, Hingham, 167. Old South Meetinghouse, 50, 51. Old State House, 4, 5, 8, 9. Old stone monument, Lexington, 155. Old Town Dock, 15. " Oldtown Folks," scene of H. B. Stowe's, 123. Olmsted, Frederick Law, 112. Orchard House, Concord, 156. O'Reilly, John Boyle, monument to, 92. Orient Heights, 141. Orne, Col. Azor, at Black Horse Tavern, 152. Otis, James, 7; in Faneuil Hall, 14; tomb of, 26, 27 ; picture representing, 42 ; statue, 108. Otis Street, Milton, 132, Oxenbridge, Rev. John, tomb of, 22. Oxford Hotel, 81. Paine, Robert Treat, 13 ; tomb of, 26 ; at Latin School, 48; portrait, 13. " Palisadoed " fort, first, Charlestown, 66. Parade Ground, Boston Common, 33. Parker, Capt. John, of the Lexington minutemen, 44, 155. Parker, Theodore, indicted, 19 ; pulpit, 31, 44; statue, 96; birthplace, 156. Parker House, 25, 48. Parkman, Dr. George, 74. Parkman, Francis, houses of, 72, 78. Parkman, Samuel, 12, 13. Park Street, 44, 45. Park Street Church, 29, 30. Park Theater, 34. Parkways, 151. Peabody, 161. Peabody, Rev. A. P., sometime home of, 100. Peabody, Dr. Nathaniel, house of, Salem, 163. Peabody, Oliver W., estate, Milton, 132. Peabody, Sophia, 71, 163. Peabody Academy of Science, Salem, 161, 162. Peabody Institute, Peabody, 161. Peabody Museum, Harvard, 104. Pearl Street, 46, 53. Pelham, Penelope, 21. Pemberton Square, 20, 21. Percy, Lord, 39, 144 ; at Lexington, 154. Perkins, Thomas Handasyd, 26. Perkins Institution for the Blind, 95. Phillips Brooks, house of, 87. Phillips Brooks House, Harv. Univ., 101. Phillips, Mayor John, 26. Phillips, Wendell, 13 ; first antislavery speech of, 14; indicted, 19, 27; birth- place, 37, 69 ; grave, 132. Phipps, Spencer, 15. Phipps Street, Charlestown, burying ground, 65, 66. Phips, Sir William, 64. Pickering, John, Salem, 166. Pickering house, Salem, 161, 166. Pierpont, Rev. John, 34. Pilgrim documents, Plymouth, 169. Pilgrim Hall, Plymouth, 169. Pillar of Liberty, Dedham, 138. Pillory, 4. Pinckney Street, 71. Pitcairn, Major, 57, 61, 155, 156. " Pitt's Head," Dedham, 13S. Pleasant Street, Arlington, tablet, 153. Plummer Hall, Salem, 162. Plymouth, 167, 168-170. Point of Pines, 141. Point Shirley, 139. Pormont, Philemon, 48. Post Office, 52. Post Office Square, 53. INDEX 187 Powderhorn Hill, Chelsea, 142. Powers, Hiram, statue by, 41, 86. Pratt mansion, Chelsea, relic, 142. Prescott, Col. William, statue of, 66. Prescott, William H., tomb of, 35 ; house, 40; birthplace, 162; the "crossed swords," 92. Prince, Rev. Thomas, tomb, 26; library of, 51. Prince Street (formerly Black Horse Lane), 57. Prison Lane (afterward Court Street), 19. Prospect Hill, Somerville, 143 ; Waltham, 118, 126. Proviuce Court, 52. Province House, 52, 72. Province Street (Governor's Alley), 52. Public Garden, statues and monuments, 76, 77, 146. Public Latin School, various sites, 48; distinguished pupils of, 48593. Public Library, Boston, first provision for, 10; site of first, 34; present, 82-85. Public Libraries: Arlington (Robbins Memorial), 153; Brookline, 114; Cam- bridge, 99; Lexington (Carey), 155; Concord, 158; Maiden (Converse Me- morial), 145 ; Milton, 133 ; Quincy, 135 ; Salem, 166 ; Somerville, 144 ; Water- town, 128; Wellesley, 120. Public parks, 146-151. Pudding Lane (now Devonshire Street), 5. Puling, John, 61. Pullen Poynt, 139. Punch-Bowl Tavern, 111. Putnam, Gen. Israel, headquarters, Cam- bridge, 99 ; Somerville, 143 ; birthplace of, 161. Putnam, Gen. Rufus, 7. Puvis de Chavannes, decorations by, 82. Quaker meetinghouse, 17. Quakers, incarceration of, 19; execution, 32. Queen Street (afterward Court St.), 16, 19. Quincy, 2, 134-136. Quincy, Dorothy, 135, 136. Quincy, Edmond, tomb of, 135; dwelling, 136. Quincy, Josiah (first mayor of Quincy), 11 ; house of, 45 ; statues of, 49. Quincy, Josiah, Jr. (d. 1775), 135- Quincy Historical Society, 136. Quincy House, 17. Quincy mansion house, Quincy, 136. Quincy Market House, 11. Quincy shore, 148. Quincy Street, Cambridge, 100. Radcliffe College, 106. Radical Club, 72. Randolph, 2. Randolph, Edward, 24. Ratcliffe, Rev. Robert, in Colonial prison, 19; rector of King's Chapel, 24. Rawson, Edward, 26. Read, Benjamin T., gift to city by, 78. Read, Nathan, Salem, 162. Red Lion Inn, site of, 58. Reed, Capt. James, 155. Reformatory, Concord, 159. Reid, Robert, painter, 42. Reservoir Park, 115. Revere, 2, 141, 142. Revere, Paul, tomb of, 26, 55; North Square house, 57, 58 ; tablet in Christ Church, 60 ; site of last home, 64 ; foun- dry, 64, 131 ; at Lexington, 155. Revere Beach, 141 ; Reservation, 150. Revere House, 98. Revolutionary soldiers' graves, Newton, 120. Rhodes, James Ford, home of, 80. Richardson, H. H., architect, 86, 101, 104, i45- Ridge Hill Farm, 121. Rimmer, Dr. William, statue by, 78. Rindge, Frederick H., gifts of, to Cam- bridge, 99. Rising Sun Tavern, 131. Riverside, 116. Riverside Avenue, Medford, 145. Riverside Recreation Ground, 116. Riverway, 146. Robbins Memorial Library, Arlington, 153. Rockport, 161. Rogers, Randall, statue by, 108. Rogers, William B., 88. Rogers Building, Inst, of Tech., 88, 89. Rogers Building, Washington Street, 5. Rogers Park, 148. Ropes, John C, house of, 72. Rotch and Tilden, architects, 99. Rowe's Wharf, 139. Roxbury District, 1, 2, 3, 95, 96. Roxbury Latin School, 96. Royal Customhouse, site of, 7. Royal Exchange Lane (now Exchange Street), 4. Royal Exchange Tavern, site of, 7. Royall mansion house, Medford, 145. Ruck house, Salem, 166. Rumford, Count (Benjamin Thompson), 56- Rumney Marsh, 139. Russell, Jason, house of, Arlington, 153. Russell estate, Milton, 131. St. Andrews Lodge, 55. St. Botolph Church, Boston, Eng., gift to Trinity Church, 86. St. Botolph Clubhouse, 78. St. Botolph Street, 89. St. Gaudens, Augustus, sculpture by, 37, 82. St. Gaudens, Louis, sculpture by, 82. St. John Theological Seminary of, 115. St. Margaret's Hospital, 71. St. Paul's Church, 35, INDEX Salem, i ; points of interest, 160, 161 ; itinerary, 162-166. Salem Street, 56. Sanborn, Frank B., house of, Concord, 158. Sandham, Henry, painting by, 155. Sargent, Charles S., estate, Brookline, 112. Sargent, John S., paintings by, 82. Sargent, Mrs. John T., museum of, 72. Saugus, 159. Savage, Maj. Thomas, tomb of, 23. Schlesinger estate, Brookline, 113. School of Philosophy, Concord, 156. School Street, 48. Scituate, 167. Scollay Square, vii. Second Church, Copley Square, 58, 88. Second Parish Church, Dorchester, 130. Second Regiment, M.V.M., 82. Second Universalist Church, 94. Senate, the Little, 14. Sergeant, Peter, 52. Sever, Mrs. Anne E. P., gift of, to Har- vard, 10 1. Sewall, Chief Justice Samuel, diarist, 21; tomb of, 26; "confession of contrition," 52, 56, 61. Shadrach, slave, 19. Shaler, Professor, house of, 100. Shattuck, Samuel, and "The King's Mis- sive," 20. Shaw, Judge Lemuel, house of, 69. Shaw, Maj. Samuel, monument to, 63. Shaw estate, Wellesley, 121. Shaw Memorial, 37. Shawmutt, meaning of, 1. Sheaf e, Jacob, tomb of, 23. Shepard Memorial Church, Cambridge, 58. Shirley, Gov. William, 25. Shopping district, 35. Shrimpton's Lane, 4. Shute, Gov. Samuel, 25. Silver Lake, Nonantum, 126. Simmons, Edward, paintings by, 42. Simmons Fema'e College, 89, 111. Simmons, John, founder Simmons Female College, 90. Sims, Thomas, slave, 19. Sleepy Hollow Cemetery, Concord, 157. Smibert, John, 13 ; portraits by, 38. Smith Court, antislavery landmark in, 69. Smith, Rev. Samuel F., author of "Amer- ica," 29; birthplace, 61. Soldiers' Home, Chelsea, 142. Soldiers' Monuments : Boston Common, 32, 65; Charlestown, 65; Chelsea, 143; Concord, 157; Natick, 123; Waltham, 127; Watertown, 128. Somerset Club, 39. Somerset Hotel, 92. Somerset Street, 47. Somerville, 143, 144. Sons of Liberty, 5, 34. South Avenue, Weston, 117. South Battery (Rowe's Wharf), 10. South Boston, 2, 95. South Congregational Church, 89. South End, 92. South Shore, 167-170. South Station, Boston, vii. Sparks, Jared, 107. Spiritual Temple, 89. Spring Hill, Somerville, 144. Spring Street, Lexington, 156. Spy Pond, 153. Stamp Act, excitement over, 5, 14, 34, 58. Standish, Miles, cottage and grave, 168; sword, 169. Standish Monument, Duxbury, 168. Stark, Brig. Gen. John, gifts to State, 44, 145- State House, 40-44 ; Annex, 39, 68. State Library, 43. State Street, 4, 5, 7. Stebbins, Emma, statue by, 41. Stimson, Frederick J., house of, Dedham, i37- Stoddard house, site of, 57. Stone, Dr. A. L., 30. Stone, Mrs. Valeria, gift to Wellesley College, 122. Stony Brook, 118 ; Reservation, 97, 149. Storer collection of medical medals, 91. Story, Judge Joseph, statue of, 108 ; home of, Salem, 164. Story, William W., statues by, 66, 76, 108, 149; birthplace, 164. Stoughton, Lieut. Gov. William, tomb of, Strandway, 147. Strong, Gov. Caleb, 13. Strong's Pond, 115, 119. Stuart, Gilbert, portraits by, 13, 46; grave, 34, 166. Stuart, Jane, copy of Washington portrait by, 166. Sturgis & Cabot, architects, 85. Subway, 31 ; Park Street station, 35 ; map of route, 36. " Suffolk Resolves " house, Milton, 130. Sullivan, Gov. James, tomb of, 26. Sumner, Charles, first antislavery speech of, 14, 30, 41 ; home of, 69 ; statues, 77, 105 ; grave of, 108. Sumner, Gov. Increase, tomb of, 26. Swinnerton, Dr. John, grave of, Salem, 163. Symphony Hall, 90; illustration, gr. Taft's Hotel, Point Shirley, 139. Takawambait, Daniel, 123. Talleyrand in Boston, 15. Taylor, Rev. Edward T., 59. Tea Party Wharf, 53, 54. Technology Clubhouse, 89. Telegraph Hill, South Boston, 95. Ten Hills Farm, Winthrop's, 145. Thacher, Rear Admiral, tomb of, 97. Thacher, Rev. Peter, of Milton, 132, 134. INDEX 189 Thacher, Rev. Peter, oration of, 1776, 129 ; inscription to, 132. Thacher, Rev. Thomas, tomb of, 23. Thatcher's Island, 161. Thayer, John E., 70. Thayer, Nathaniel, 70; gift to Harvard, 103. Theaters in Boston, viii, 34. Theodore Parker Church, Wert Roxbury, 96. Thompson, Benjamin. See Rumford, Count. Thoreau, Henry D., grave at Concord, 157; house, 158; site of hut at Walden, 158. Ticknor, George, house of, 44. 1 Ticknor & Fields, 49. Tileston, John, early schoolmaster, 57. Tory Row, Cambridge, 107. Touraine, Hotel, 34. Town Dock, 4, 16. Town Halls: Brookline, 114; Lexington, 155, 156; Wellesley, 120, 121. Town Hill, Charlestown, 66. Town House, Boston, first, 8, 10; second, 8 ; meeting place of first Episcopal church, 24; Milton, 133 ; Salem, 162. Train, Enoch, 70. Transcendental Club, 72. Tremont Row, 20. Tremont Street, 20; mall, 34. Tremont Temple, 25. Tremont Theater, 34. Trimountane, 1. Trinity Church, 86. Trinity Place station, 81. Trowbridge, John T., home of, Arlington, J53. Tufts College Medical and Dental School in Boston, 91 ; buildings on College Hill, 144, 145- Turner Street, Salem, 164. Twentieth Century Building, 90. Twentieth Century Club, 69. Twentieth Regiment, M.V.M., 82. Twin churches, Milton, 133. Union Club, 45. Union Market station, 128. Union Stone, site, 56. Union Street, 55. Union Street, Salem, 161, 163. Unitarian Building, 45. Unitarian Church, Concord, 156 ; Lexing- ton, 155. United States Arsenal, Watertown. See Arsenal, Watertown. United States Naval Hospital. See Naval Hospital. United States Navy Yard. See Navy Yard, Charlestown. University Clubhouse, 80. Upham's Corner burying ground, Dor- chester, 97. Upsall, Nicholas, Red Lion Inn, 58; grave, 62. Ursuline Convent, bricks from, in Cathe- dral, 93. Vane, Sir Harry, site of house of, 20; statue, 82. Vassal, Col. John, 21, 107; Leonard, 136; William, 21. Vendome, Hotel, 80. Vergoose, Elizabeth, 29. Victoria, Hotel, 81. Victoria, Queen, portrait, 161. Vigilance Committee, 14. Village Green, Dedham, 138. Village Square, Brookline, in, 113. Vinland, the Norse, 117. Vose mansion, Milton, 131, 137. Waban Hill, Newton, 116, 119. Waban, Lake, 121. Walden Pond, Concord, 158. Walker Building, 88. Walker, Henry Oliver, paintings by, 42. Walnut Street, 72. Walnut Street, Brookline, 112. Waltham, 3, 126-128. Waltham Street, Lexington, 155. Waltham Watch Company, 127. Ward, J. A. A., sculpture by, 76. Ward, Joshua, house, Salem, 162. Ware and Van Brunt, architects, 99. Warner, Olin L., statues by, 44, 78. Warren, Henry, 100. Warren, James, house in Watertown, 129. Warren, Dr. John, 49. Warren, Dr. John Collins, tablet erected by, 96, 112. Warren, Gen. Joseph, 13 ; site of house of, 18; obsequies, 24; tombs, 27, 35, 51, 55, 97 ; statue, 67 ; birthplace, 96, 129. Warren, William, comedian, 21. Warren Avenue Baptist Church, 94. Warren Bridge, 65. Warren Street, Brookline, 112. Washington Elm, Cambridge, 105. Washington, George, portraits, 12, 46, 166; busts, 43, 61; statues, 41, 77; in Cam- bridge, 103, 106, 107; in Chelsea, 142; at Munroe's Tavern, Lexington, 154; in Salem, 162. Washington, Martha, 129. Washington Monument Association, 41. Washington, Mt., Chelsea, 142. Washington Park, Chelsea, 142. Washington Square, Salem, 164. Washington Street, 5, 16; in Newton, 118; Salem, 161, 165. Watch house, Plymouth, 170. Watertown, r, 126, 128, 129. Waverley Oaks Reservation, 149. Way-Ireland house, Chelsea, 142. Wayside, The, Concord, 157. Webster, Daniel, 14, 33 ; statue of, 41 ; orations, Bunker Hill Monument, 67, 98 ; Marshfield home and tomb, 168. 190 INDEX Webster, Prof. John W., 74. Weld, William F., gift of, to Harvard, 103. Welles, Samuel, 121. Wellesley, 120-122. Wellesley College, 122. Wellington, Benjamin, minuteman, 153. Wellington Hills, 3. Wendell, Judge Oliver, tomb of, 23 ; site of house, 25. West Cambridge, later Arlington, 152. West Cedar Street, 72. West Church, 74. West Lynn, 159. West Newton, 118. West Roxbury District, 3, 96, 97. West Roxbury Parkway, 147. Weston, 117. Weston Bridge, 116, 117. Westwood, 137. Whalley, regicide, 109. Wheelwright, John, 135. Wheelwright & Haven, architects, 91, 104. Whipping post, 4. Whipple, Edwin P., house of, 71. Whitefield,scen e of open-air sermon by, 105. Whitney, Anne, statues by, 16, 79, 105 former home of, 70. Whitney, Henry M., estate, Brookline, 113 Whitney, Mrs. A. D. T., homes of, 70, 13T Whittemore, Samuel, tablet, Arlington i5 2 -. Whittier, John G., home of, in Dan vers, 161 Willard, Josiah, tomb of, 26. Willard, Rev. Samuel, tomb of, 26. Willard, Solomon, architect, 18, 29, 66, 67- William H. Lincoln Schoolhouse, Brook- line, 112. Williams, Roger, house, Salem, 160, 165. Willow Avenue, West Somerville, tablet, 144. Wilson, Henry, homestead, Natick, 123. Wilson, Rev. John, first minister, 5, 6. Winchester, 145. Winslow, Edward, " Careswell," 168. Winslow, John, 23. Winslow, Rear Admiral John A., 13; house, 96 ; tomb, 97. Winslow family, tomb of, 23. Winter Hill, Somerville, 144. Winthrop, 139-141. Winthrop, Deane, 139 ; house of, 140. Winthrop, Fitz John, 22. Winthrop, Gov. John, first house, 1, 6 ; second house, 50; statues, 18, 19, 108; tomb, 22, 44, 51, 66, 143 ; Ten Hills Farm, 145. Winthrop, John, Jr., tomb of, 22. Winthrop, Prof. John, tomb of, 22 ; tele- scope used by, 104. Winthrop, Margaret, 22. Winthrop, Robert C, 113. Winthrop, Wait Still, 22. Winthrop Shore Reservation, 149. Winthrop Square, Charlestown, 65. Wiswall's Pond, Newton, 126. Witch House, Salem, 165. Witchcraft, documents and relics, Salem, 165; jail of 1692, Salem, 164. Wolcott, Gov. Roger, statue of, 43. Woman's Clubhouse, 90. Wood Island Park, 94, 147. Woodbridge, Benjamin, killed in duel, 7 ; grave of, 28, 32. Woods, Henry E., editor, 47. Woodward Tavern, Dedham, 131, 137. Woodworth, Samuel, scene of his " Old Oaken Bucket," 167. Worcester, Joseph E., in Cambridge, 107. Worthylake, George, 63. Wright Tavern, Concord, 156. Writing School, first Free, 18 ; first, 60. Yachting, off City Point, 95. Yeaman house, Chelsea, 142. Young Men's Christian Association, 81. Young Men's Christian Union, 35. Date Due 3 APR |5 !937 , APR 2 d\ AU5 2 2 20 02 , I j Library Bureau Cat. no. 1137 BOSTON COLLEGE 01625968 mmm mm ■■-■~ --.^ y - mmmm • ■ ■ ■■ .-. ■ ■• -^ :: : •:•. jijjj.:: ' ' ' ' ">•'. '. :i" ••.'■;: j ' ; ; ; • ' :!: . ; . :: ■ ' mmM-smm :::: ..... !;;!:! ! : ?:; : . :'•::•.: