LU«llil !.l!!^ Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2010 with funding from Boston Library Consortium IVIember Libraries http://www.archive.org/details/bookoffairgreateOOever LOUISIANA PURCHASE MONUMENT— On this stately shaft, one of the striking^ features of the plaza, were these words: "The instrument we have signed will preface centuries of happiness for innumerable generations of the human race. The Missouri and Mississippi will see them prosper and increase in the midst of equality under just laws." THE THE FAIR By MARSHALL EVERETT, The Great Descriptive Writer, Author and Historian The Greatest Exposition The World Has Ever Seen. PHOTOGRAPHED AND EXPLAINED. A Panorama of the St. Louis Exposition ILLUSTRATED WITH A Vast Gallery of Pictures Showing all the Fair in Photographs P. W. ZIEGLER CO., PHILADEI.PHIA. 1 C' Ae-i- Copyright, 1904 By Hhnry Neil All rig'hts reserved. BOSTON COLLESE '. ^ Ml (^-^ MAIN ENTRANCE TO MANUFACTURES BUILDING — The massive, imposing main entrance to the Palace of Manufactures is in keeping with the importance of the exhibits within. Above is a grand group signifying the triumph and power of manufactures, with bees and other symbols of the industries embellishing the grand sweep of the arch itself. FILIPINO CONSTABULARY IN CAMP— Not the least iuterestiug feature of the fair was the big camp where the newly organized military police from the Philippine islands were quartered. They were a happy lot, these dusky little soldiers, and enjoyed their stay immensely. The camp was constantly surrounded by curious visitors from near and far. !*>,, MAIN ENTRANCE TO PAiACE OF FINE ARTS— In the architecture of its main entrance the Fine Arts building of the Louisiana Purchase Exposition was a beautiful illustration of the plain and classic, minus the severe. It might have been a Grecian tem- ple transplanted from the golden times of the Laud of Fine Arts. JEFFERSON QUABD ON DUTY— An army of these young men policed the exten- sive groumls of the exposition. This force was fashioned after the Columbian Guard similarly employed at the WorkVs Columbian Exposition at Chicago, ten years betoie. Jt maintained discipline, prevented disorder and co-operated with the police secret service. WHIRLING DERVISH IN REPOSE— This wiry-looking dervish of India whose wonderful top-like motions have made his class famous the world over, is for the moment in repose. He has wrapped his draperies about him only for a time. He will soon be spinning around in a fashion to make everybody's head whirl but his own. JAPANESE GOLDEN EAGLE — This magnificent specimen of Japanese art was only one of many that awakened surprise and admiration for the cleverness of the dusky island- ers from the Land of the Eising Sun. Vases, urns and decorative figures in bronze and pottery, all of rare workmanship and value, also abounded. CHOCTAW MOTHER AND CHILD— Leaping Fawn and her baby, Screaming Eagle, were favorite subjects for tlie camera fiends at the exposition. Dimes, quarters, and even dollars were showered up>on Leaping Fawn to induce her to pose with her child because of the strength of her typical Choctaw face. A HAPPY FAMILY — This Indian maid, her parents and the hut they occupied at the Louisiana Purchase Exposition are shown, as the inmates posed for the camera. The child, Fragrant Blossom, was the recipient of much attention. She is pretty and as bright as any child of her age. THE SIM-A-LA-LA MAN — Typical early morning scene on the Pike. The Egyptian "spieler," his pet monkey and the patient ass have gone forth before the advent of the crush to enjoy the rising sun. The avenue of all nations is deserted at this hour, save for a few stragglers. THE AINTJ GIRL— There is n O 03 0) Pi C^ 01 « ^ tl) ^ ^ rj r^ O ^ -M O fH crt ctf O o ■m &!« ^j 03 " fH O o Oi o _, <^ Pi 9 '=^ .2 fl ci > rf ci 0.2 a m cS r^ O 03 P O J O 4J 1 03 &C IZi § ti le t3 ° rr Hi -3 ^ o 03 ^ O i>1 ?, . !E rQ H t3 S 03 P O 03 < 03 03 •^ !>. 03 Cj ^^^ o tc o m o 'l^ 03 Pkevious Inteenational Expositions 73 A second great universal exposition was held in London in 1862. Because of the Civil War this country took little interest and little part in it. Success crowned the fair, however, and it closed without a deficit with a daily average attendance of 36,500. Paris then came to the front with a second fair to advertise itself as the handsomest city on the globe. The site was the historic Champs de Mars. It was opened by Napoleon and Eugenie, April 1, 1867, and continued until Nov. 3. The expenses exceeded the receipts, yet it brought years of prosperity to Paris. VIENNA AND THE CENTENNIAL. Vienna's international exposition was held in 1873 at a cost of $7,800,- 000 and with 664 American exhibitors who carried off 442 awards. The Centennial exposition, held at Pairmount Park, Philadelphia, in 1876, is yet fresh in the minds of many of our people. It was in many respects the greatest fair up to that time and did much to place the United States and its interests in a proper light before Europe. Congress cre- ated a centennial board, stock was sold at $10 a share, a loan of $1,500,000 was made and later repaid, $3,000,000 was contributed by Pennnylvania and Philadelphia, and other states contributed liberally. The fair was open from May 10 to Nov. 10 and was visited by nearly ten million per- sons. Of the foreign nations Spain had the most numerous exhibits, 3,822. It was a grand success, with magnificent after results at a time of gloomy depression. Many hold the fair to have been the turning point of the financial crisis. France held another fair in Paris in 1878 and two were held in Aus- tralia in the two succeeding years. THE PAEIS EXPOSITION OF '89. The greatest effort ever made in that direction up to that time charac- terized the Paris exposition of 1889, in commemoration of the French revolution. The Champs de Mars was again selected as the site. The total space occupied was 173 acres. The largest building on the grounds was the Palace of Machinery, measuring 1,378 feet in length, 406 feet in width and having an elevation of 166 feet. The floor covered 11 acres. The total cost of the structure was $1,500,000. The Palace of Arts cost $1,350,000; the Palace of the French Sections, $1,150,000; while $500,000 was expended on the parks and gardens. Among these parks were inter- spersed that marvelous collection of villages which seem^ed to the spec- 74 Peevious InteenationaIj Expositions tator to represent the world in miniature with Indian huts, Arabian tents, a street in Algiers, a Caledonian village, etc. The Eiffel Tower was the principal attraction. EIFFEL TOWER BASED ON AMERICAN IDEA. This structure, 984 feet high, was named after its inventor, a French engineer, who, however, has given credit to this country as having fur- nished the idea ; possibly the Sawyer Observatory at the Centennial may have suggested it. Its base formed a gigantic archway over a main path in the central grounds of the exposition. The tower was of very simple construction, built entirely of iron girders and pillars, with four great shafts consisting of four columns each, starting from the four corners of the base, and merging into a single shaft, which formed the main part of the tower. This shaft ended in a great cupola or reception room, which in turn was surmounted by a still higher observatory, over 800 feet above the ground. The total weight has been estimated at 15,000,000 pounds, or 7,500 tons, and the cost at about $1,000,000, the French government assuming one-third the expense. CLOSES IN BRILLIANT TRIUMPH. The exposition was in every respect a brilliant triumph. The exhibits surpassed all previous displays. The attendance exceeded the most san- guine expectation. The financial results were unexampled in the history of expositions, and so remain. There were fifty-five thousand exhibitors ; of this number the United States furnished nearly two thousand. The total number of admissions by ticket was a fraction over twenty-eight millions. The attendance on the last day was four hundred thousand. The average attendance was one hundred and thirty-seven thousand two hundred and eighty-nine. The most remarkable outcome of this exposition was the financial earn- ings, nearly $2,000,000 remaining in profits at the close— something un- precedented and as yet unequaled in the history of international expositions. It demonstrated, in a very effective way, the salient traits of the French character— its wonderful faculty of presenting the things of this world in such pleasing fashion as to attract and hold the attention of the most diverse temperaments, and the practical ability to closely look after the dollars and cents of those drawn into such charming toils. CHAPTER III. U. S. LIFE,=SAVING SERVICE, Its Thrilling Exhibit — Proven Heroes, Every One — A Duplicate of Actual Stations — Daily Routine of a Station— Out with the Life Boat — Methods of Battling with the Elements — The Lyle Gun in Service — The "Breeches Buoy" in Action. iil^^AN the life boat!" This cry, echoing many times daily never -*- "^ failed to send a thrill through spectators at the exposition. To those who dwell along the seacoast, or the shores of the Great Lakes, it was a familiar story that never grew old. To those from inland points it added a zest of interest greater than most exhibits. Splash goes the stanch little craft into the miniature sea constructed by the government to illustrate the prowess of its brave life-saving crews. '^Bang" goes the cannon that sends the life line to the storm beaten mariner. Behold before our very eyes we witness the salvation of the storm- tossed and shipwrecked sailor, just as it occurs almost daily at some dan- gerous point along our extensive coast lines. The life savers are bending at their oars on their mission of mercy and unconsciously we hum a snatch from that good old hymn, ' ' Throw Out the Life Line. ' ' Never before had its significance been so deeply impressed. Probably six out of ten who watched the stirring scene broke into that song, or found it running through their minds. PROVEN HEEOES, EVERY ONE. The exhibit was made by the Treasury Department and no pains were spared to insure its completeness. World 's fair visitors thus saw exactly how the government life-saving heroes work along the vast American seaboard. The method of reaching storm-imperiled ships, of rescuing their crews, of reducing to a minimum the off-shore loss of life by ship- wreck, all these were depicted in graphic detail, the most skillful men and the best equipmentof the service being employed for that purpose. 75 76 U. S. Life-Saving Service A duplicate of actual stations. The model life-saving station was situated just south of the French pavilion, west of Skinker road, being constructed from plans drawn by James Knox Taylor, supervising architect of the Treasury Department, at a cost of $8,000. Its interior was a duplicate of those in actual service, but the exterior design was more ornamental. It was surfaced in plaster and had a regulation tower about 50 feet high. The building was roofed with Spanish tin tiles painted red. The keystone of the station's arched entrance represented an old- fashioned man-of-war under full sail. The building covered an area 43 by 70 feet, and among its striking features was the boat room, 40 by 43 feet, from which extended a run into the water of the lake, 40 feet distant. The boats were launched by means of this run. Out in the lake, 400 feet distant from the station, was a drill-mast, 70 feet high, to which a yard 40 feet long was fastened. This yard was the target for the projectile fired from a mortar, carrying the lifeline as it is shot through the air to a sinking ship, exactly as in actual service. These simple preparations covered the preliminary work for the exhibit. SPECTACLE WAS STIEEING. The daily performance of the life savers themselves furnished a spec- tacle calculated to thrill the most phlegmatic souls. The men enlisted in the life-saving service are, as a rule^ descendants of generations of hardy sailors and fishermen, and, both by heredity and training, are skilled in their dangerous work. The crew selected for the world 's fair were picked men, some of them signally distinguished for bravery. For adminis- trative purposes, the seacoast and lake shores of the United States have been divided into 12 districts, each with its quota of life-saving stations ; consequently a chosen corps from the entire organization represents a high order of discipline and ability. AEDUOUS SEEVICE, DAY AND NIGHT. The service is arduous day and night, as well as extra-hazardous when the incident of a shipwreck calls for the saving of life in a storm. During the winter a constant patrol along the coast is maintained, the various life-saving crews going on guard detail for this patrol work in successive relays. The stations in the same coast territory are connected U. S. Life-Saving Seevice 77 by telephone, so that when necessity arises one station may call another to its assistance or notify it of a vessel in distress that has been seen. Each of the 12 districts is under the command of a superintendent, and each life-saving station is commanded by a keeper. The former, though sup- posed to exercise but a general supervision, often personally assists in the work of rescue. Of their small number two have been drowned of late years, one has escaped that fate by the merest chance, and another has died of exposure. DAILY ROUTINE OF A STATION". The keeper of a life-saving station from his tower sweeps with his marine glass as much of the coast as is within range, keeping an especially close watch in stormy weather. He is also in telephone touch with the keepers of nearby lighthouses, who at once notify him if they have espied a ship in distress. In the event that a rescue is necessary, the station keeper musters his crew, directs the work and personally serves alongside his men. The crews of some stations are engaged in fishing or boating business of their own, but are subject to call at any hour. At the more perilous points they are exclusively in the life-saving service. THE EVANSTON (iLL.) HEEOES. The station at Evanston, 111., on Lake Michigan, has a crew which, with the exception of the keeper, is composed exclusively of students of the Northwestern University, and this collegiate crew has so greatly dis- tinguished itself for pluck and efficiency that every member wears the government gold medal awarded for bravery. TWO WAYS OF EESCUE. The rescuing of persons imperiled by shipwreck must be done in one of two ways, either by the life-saving crews going out to them in surf- boats or by firing a line "to them from the Lyle gun invented for that purpose, and then employing the breeches buoy to bring them ashore on the cable line thus made possible. Both methods were illustrated in the world's fair exhibit. The more perilous of the two, from the standpoint of the life-saving crews, is that in which the surfboat is brought into service. OUT WITH THE LIFE BOAT. This is resorted to in cases where the firing of a life line to the dis- tressed vessel is not practicable. The big surfboat is hastened to the 78 U. S. Life-Saving Service beach on a wagon constructed for that purpose. Its launching into the sea during a storm is a very dangerous task, requiring courage, strength and skill of unusual order. The members of the crew often range them- selves on either side of the boat and force it out through the surf, spring- ing into their appointed places at the proper moment, as best they can. Then begins the terrific hand-to-hand battle with the waves and wind, the master oarsmen bending themselves to the herculean task of sending their boat seaward in spite of the efforts of the gale and billows to hurl it back on shore, shattered and useless. The surfboat is a mere cockle-shell opposed to the furious elements, but human skill, intelligence and courage are behind it and it is commonly the victor in such a contest, though there are many cases of failure and disaster attendant upon its launching. Once well out from the shore, however, the strain on the men and boat is comparatively relaxed. METHODS OP BATTLING WITH THE ELEMENTS. More often than not, when a surfboat has successfully made its way out to a vessel in distress the storm prevents its going directly to the side under the impulsion of the oars. In this case the boat is steadied some little distance away and a ' ' heaving stick, ' ' with a line attached, is hurled to the deck of the ship. A heavier line is ^'bent on" to this light line by the ship 's crew and drawn back to the surfboat by the life savers, and the surfboat is then cautiously warped up to the ship's side and the work of rescue begun. There have been instances where life-saving crews worked continuously for 24 hours at this perilous task. THE LYLE GUN IN SERVICE. When a ship is going to pieces near the shore, the Lyle gun is brought into service. The gun-carriage, or "gun-cart," as the life-savers call it, is run down to the water's edge and sometimes into the very surf itself. The gun used for this service carries a projectile to which a light-weight line is attached, the line being reeled up on another part of the carriage. It is here that the station keeper's gunnery counts, for he must so aim the gun that its projectile will pass directly over the endangered vessel, allow- ing the line to fall across the deck. U. S. Life-Saving Seevice 79 THE BEEECHES BUOY IN" ACTION. Once this is done, a heavy cable soon stretches from the shore to the ship, and along this cable,, by means of a machine operated by the life- saving crew, a ''breeches buoy" is sent out to the rescue. The breeches buoy is simply a heavy leather contrivance into which the legs are slipped and from which it is impossible for one to fall. It is run to and fro along the cable, which, being swung from the crosstrees on the ship's mast, per- mits the buoy to be drawn shoreward, running along the life line on a heavy pulley, with as little contact with the surf as is possible under storm conditions. In the cases of panic-stricken women or unconscious persons, the members of the life-saving crew bring them ashore, the rescuers using the ''breeches buoy" and bearing the rescued in their arms. These and other important features of the service, including the method of resuscitating apparently drowned persons by means of artificial respiration, the best manner of swimming while bearing a body through the water, boat drills, and similar features of the life-saving service, were shown at the world 's fair exhibit. The United States life-saving service is one of the most useful, yet least known, organizations under govern- ment direction, the details of its work, picturesque and adventurous to an unusual degree, constituting a series of dramatic spectacles that moved beholders to enthusiastic admiration. OEIGIN AND significance OF THE SEEVICE. One has only to consider what the present development of the life- saving service means to realize what strides civilization has taken of late years. While we seldom think of it, few departures of human en- deavor so fully illustrate the tendency of the times as this governmental service, so magnificently demonstrated at the Louisiana Purchase Expo- sition. It is only a comparatively brief period of time since wreckers used to light beacon fires along the seashore, particularly in dangerous places, not to warn the imperiled mariner, but to lure him on to destruction. From the wreckage these human vultures gathered a livelihood. It was a common practice in England, Ireland, Scotland and on the continent of Europe, and such stories have been related in connection with early seafaring experiences when this country was young. It is probable that the efforts of monks and other members of re- 80 U. S. Life-Saving Seevice ligious orders in establishing bell-bnoys in particularly dangerous places was the initial step towards creating a life-saving service— the nucleus around which this exceedingly humane department grew. From this small start developed a movement that has been fostered by every civilized nation on the face of the earth, until each has an or- ganized department devoted exclusively to the noble work of minimizing the terrors of the stormy deep. It is a source of no small comfort to Americans to realize that none exceeds in effectiveness that conducted by the United States along its ocean borders and the shores of the Great Lakes. Many volumes could be written concerning the bravery shown by the members of the service without exhausting the material afforded by their unselfish valor, as day in and out, throughout the, livelong year, they battle with the elements and against both seen and unseen dangers, to grasp the victim of the storm from the hungry waters. It is well that the Federal Government made possible this exhibit at St. Louis. Aside from the diversion and entertainment it contributed, every performance given was a sermon in which the principles of bravery, unselfishness, devotion to duty and humanity were impressed upon all thoughtful beholders with silent eloquence calculated to make it a life lesson. CHAPTER IV. WORLD'S FAIR MUSIC Sousa Sway-backed with Medals — Innes and His Band — Big Filipino Band — Indian Mu- sicians Hastily Organized — Complex Instrumentation Described — Many Other Musical Organizations. GIDEON'S is the only band even heard of that was not engaged to play at the Louisiana Purchase Exposition, Sousa was here— the same Sousa who ordinarily received $2.00 of your money when you heard his band in a music hall. Here it cost you nothing unless you felt that you wanted to listen from the comfortable vantage point of a reserved seat. Even then the charge was nominal. SOUSA SWAY-BACKED WITH MEDALS. Sousa looked well. He was a little sway-backed with supporting his medals, but his head did not seem uneasy from wearing the crown of the march king. He had a band of 65 pieces, and whenever any of the other bands began to win any of his auditors he waved his trombones and cor- nets to the front, levels these instruments over the rail of the bandstand, and turned on the ' ' Stars and Stripes Forever, ' ' by John Philip Sousa. That's all. INNES AND HIS BAND. Innes was there— Frederick Neil Innes, a fine, chesty fellow, who got there blowing his own horn. He, too, had enjoyed his inning in the $2,00 class and had filled Sousa 's place— actually filled it. There are a good many bandmasters who would only rattle around in it, but it is to be remembered of Innes that he filled it. They are both old soloists of Patrick Gilmore 's, the Columbus of the modern American brass band, William Weil, the St. Louis bandmaster, had a band, the official band of the exposition. Additionally, Weil won some fame by falling out with the union over his world's fair contract, and paying a $1,000 fine to the organization. He afterward played "The Union Forever" every pay day. 81 82 Woeld's Fair Music BIG FILIPINO BAND. There was tlie Filipino band— the largest at the fair. It had 80 pieces, against 65 for Sousa, 50 for Innes and 40 for Weil. The Filipinos put their 80 j)ieces together and make a whole— lot of music. Eeally, they were good. They had temperament. The Sousa and Innes bands lacked that element. They had finish mostly. Then, there was the Indian band at the Ethnology building. It hadn't any temperament, either. But it had a finish. One could see its finish looming up the moment he came within earshot. To escaj)e having it become your finish, it was always best to fly. Additionally, there were other bands, and then some. There was a German band, an Irish band and a wilderness of pipes and reeds, for, after arranging to get its money back, the exposition went in strongest for music. You can imagine the result of having so many bands on the grounds. It was a battle royal of bands. Sousa could hold his audiences better than any of the rest of them. This was because Sousa 's name was big. He had written about all the marches except the Ides of March, by a composer named Shakspere. Then, too, Sousa was theatrical in method. He knew how to marshal his host to make it effective. When he saw his audience filtering away, pre- sumably to hear Innes, he trotted his tubes around front, had them turned upon the crowd like so many cannon, and transfixed the people with a torrent of tone. The Filipino musicians had an American leader. He was proud of them, and for good reason, for it was not only the best Filipino band at the fair, but a good band at that, if even now and then there did drift in upon the Filipino reservation the dulcet strains of Sousa calming the storm in the overture from ''William Tell." INDIAN MUSICIANS HASTILY ORGANIZED. The Indian band came from the United States of America— and no less a place. It came to St. Louis from Chicocco, 0. T., but the musicians simply assembled down there to practice before they came on to St. Louis. Of course, it wasn't very good at first, and their leader thought it would be wise to turn it loose on the north edge of the Llano Estacado and let it World's Fair Musio 83 wear some of its crescendos down a little before trying it on the crowds at St. Louis. No one ever suggested that the American Indian might make a musi- cian ; but he is coming. The Indian band is a revelation, especially when it falls on one of its kith and kin like "Hiawatha" or "Navajo." COMPLEX INSTRUMENTATION DESCRIBED. The Sousa and Innes bands are not brass bands. Do not make the mistake of calling them that. They are concert bands. The Innes band even has string instruments in it. There is an awful confusion of instruments in one of these concert bands. For instance, the Sousa band has an instrumentation that reads : Twelve first b-flat clarinets, four second b-flat clarinets, two third b-flat clarinets, two e-flat clarinets, one alto and one bass clarinet, two oboes interchangeable with cor-anglaise (English) horns; two bassoons, four saxophones, four flutes, interchangeable piccolos, six cornets, two trumpets, two fleugelhorns, two euphoniums, interchangeable with trom- bones; four trombones, six French horns, four tubas, one Sousaphone and three drums. The Innes band has two flutes, one piccolo, two oboes, one cor-anglaise, one petit clarinet in a-flat, two petite clarinets in e-flat, twelve first b-flat clarinets, six second b-flat clarinets, six third b-flat clarinets, one alto, one tenor and one bass clarinet, two bassoons, five saxophones, four French horns, five cornets, two trumpets, three trombones, two euphoni- ums, one baritone, three tubas, two string basses, one harp, one tympani and three drums. MANY OTHER MUSICAL ORGANIZATIONS. "When Sousa was in Europe his band was considered the oddest that had ever blown in upon the fountain places of music. As the season unfolded the bands poured in until it was well nigh im- possible to keep track of their number. The famous Garde Eepublicaine band came from Paris, and fine bands from England and other countries. Eegimental bands, state bands and government bands, too, filled the air with harmony. With three or four free band concerts afternoon and evening, in the spacious plazas reserved for that purpose, directed by the masters of the profession throughout the world, the fair afforded indeed a feast of melody. 84 Woeld's Faie Music Musical people and all who appreciate good music may tliank the world's fair for three notable compositions, written upon the invitation of the exposition management. These are the ''Hymn of the West," by the American poet, Edmund Clarence Stedman, the music for which was written by Prof. John K. Paine, who is at the head of the music depart- ment of Harvard University; ''Louisiana," a march by Frank Vander- stuken, leader of the Cincinnati orchestra, and a waltz, "Along the Plaza," by Henry K. Hadley, of New York, who had won his laurels long before this as a writer of operatic and other musical compositions. This music was heard publicly for the first time upon the opening of the exposition, Saturday, April 30, and frequently thereafter in the musical programs of the greatest of world's fairs. These are the only official compositions, and were published under direction of the Bureau of Music of the world 's fair. Thirty thousand dollars was given in prizes for the best bands at a tournament held during the exposition. All through the world's fair, the musical feature being prominent, the most famous bands of the world were placed under contract to participate during considerable periods, contributing in no small degree both to the charm and the educational value of the exposition. CHAPTER V. QUEEN VICTORIA'S JUBILEE PRESENTS Dazzling Arrays of Wealth — Will Never Be Exhibited Again — From India, Ceylon and South Africa — Clock Case of a Tiger's Skull — Gift of the Chinese Emperor — Maharajah's Lavish Gifts Beggar Description — Royal Chair of State — Worth More Than Weight in Gold — Gold Caskets Loaded with Gems — The Astors Couldn't Buy One Casket — ^Precautions Against Loss or Theft. ALADDIN with his wonderful lamp could not have conjured up so much wealth as is represented in the Jubilee presents to Queen Victoria, on exhibition in the Hall of Congress, immediately in the rear of the Administration building, at the world's fair, and forming one of the most interesting displays made by Great Britain. Combined the presents represent a value beyond estimation. The most daring of men in estimating values would shrink from hazarding even an approximate guess on them. The dazzling array of jeweled boxes and caskets and cylinders alone stifle the mind when one thinks of the probable cost. They came mostly from the loyal subjects of the late Queen of Eng- land in commemoration of her jubilee, and there is not another article like the one on exhibit anywhere in the known world. There are examples in silver and gold working that can not be duplicated. There are speci- mens of boxes and caskets that required years of painstaking care to execute, and others of ivory that could not be reproduced because of their size. The width of some of these boxes causes one to speculate on the huge tusks necessary to produce such a board of ivory. DAZZLING AEKAY OF WEALTH. The presents are arranged in glass cases and each has a small printed card explaining what it is and by whom sent to the Queen. Upon the walls are hung in frames addresses of the people and rulers as well as commercial bodies and municipalities of the world, to the Queen. There were three stalwart ' ' bobbies, ' ' the pick of the London police force, al- 85 86 Queen Victoria's Jubilee Peesents ways on guard, to say nothing of a half dozen Jefferson Guards, and William W. Forster, who was in charge of the exhibit, was there, too, from early morning to late at night. At the door downstairs was a Jef- ferson Guard to further protect the priceless exhibit. WILL NEVER BE EXHIBITED AGAIN. After the fair the presents will be distributed among the palaces of King Edward and will never be shown again. It would be impossible to give a description of all the presents in the exhibit, but here are a few : There is a worsted box containing two Indian shawls from the Vichar Sabha Ahluwalain of Eawal Pindi, Punjab, that is one of the marvels of weaving. The shawls are of the finest India produces. There is a casket trimmed with gold from the municipality of Bom- bay, and another casket inlaid with silver and gold and precious stones containing the address of the Kajah of Babfili. Another casket is of sil- ver fiiligree of marvelous workmanship from Sir Luchmessur Sing B'aba- door, Maharajah of Durbhangan. FROM INDIA, CEYLON AND SOUTH AFRICA. From the Council of Ceylon comes an ivory box with trimmings of gold and set in rows of pearls and studded with rubies, emeralds and sapphires. From 35,000 British subjects in the Rand gold district is sent a gold plaque with ''Victoria R. I.," set in the finest of diamonds, and from Australia is an ebony box resting on gold nuggets which also surround the imperial crown of thread gold. CLOCK CASE OP A TIGER ^S SKULL. One of the striking presents is that sent by the Prime Minister of Hyderabad. It is the skull of a tiger trimmed in gold, with a clock and a chronometer in the sides. Highly polished tiger claws trimmed with gold are resting on the velvet stand supporting the skull, and in the cen- ter of the skull is the greeting engraven on a heart of pure gold. CREATIONS FROM HUGE TUSKS. The people of Kimberly forwarded an ivory casket trimmed with gold and studded with diamonds. The size of the sides and top and bottom of the casket shows how enormous must have been the tusks from which Queen Victoeia's Jubilee Presents 87 they were made. This casket could not be duplicated, as in all probability such tusks are now nowhere to be found in the world. The inhabitants of Ceylon sent their address in a delicately wrought silver cylinder, the work of which required years of patient toil, and rep- resents the highest art of the silversmith. It is supported by the tusks of three silver elephants, each of which is wrought in the high workman- ship characteristic of the cylinder. GIFT OF THE CHINESE EMPEROR. The Emperor of China sent a scepter of jade, the engraving of which required years to execute, and it is pronounced the most perfect bit of this remarkable artistic work ever produced. It typifies long life, sta- bility and immutability. He also sent a lump of jade, upon one side of which is engraved a typical Chinese scene. The two are marvels of Chinese workmanship, and, it is said, could not be duplicated. There is also a Chinese plate of the finest porcelain, in four different colors, and it is roughly estimated as worth more than $6,000. Such work is no longer done in China, so that it is impossible of duplication. WONDERFUL SILVER AND IVORY WORK. There is a gold cylinder, wrought in filigree and studded with precious stones, resting upon two ivory elephants that are exquisitely carved, that came from the Thakore of Morvi, the Thakore of Limri and the Thakore Sahib of Gondal. This is pronounced one of the most artistic bits of silver and ivory work in the world. Maharajah's lavish gifts beggar description. The Maharajah of Travancore, who is one of the most powerful of the Indian princes and whose wealth is fabulous, was most lavish in his gifts to Queen Victoria. One is a pair of tusks of the finest polished ivory, and they are said to be the largest tusks in the world. They are supported by the head of a buffalo in ebony, artistically carded. There is another pair of tusks trimmed in pure gold, representing the lotus leaf, and the base is composed of the bare teeth of the elephant, supported by ebony wood carvings of an elephant, and the whole is sprinkled with precious stones. 88 Queen Victoeia's Jubilee PEESEiifTS KOYAL CHAIR OF STATE. His third gift was a chair of state, the like of which has never been produced before, and which brings to one the realization of the wealth of India. It is of carved ivory, with truss-shaped legs of ivory, and lions ' paws in ivory as the feet. There is an ivory scroll, representing foliage, and there are two ivory lions, whose eyes are huge diamonds. The foot- stool is of ivory, trimmed with pure gold, and the kneeling cushion is of the finest texture, trimmed with gold. Words can convey no idea of the magnificence of this gift. Its value is fabulous. ROYAL ELEPHANT SADDLES. The municipality of Darjecling sent a silver prayer wheel, the work- manship of which is most delicate, representing the highest art of the Indian worker in silver. Here are also shown gorgeous saddles for elephants presented by sev- eral Indian princes to the present King of England when he made his tour of India thirty years ago. These saddles are considered the finest ever produced, and for elegance and magnificence can not be equaled. They are shown in the exhibit as an example of the workmanship of the men of India in cloth. They are emblazoned with the royal coat of arms and as a whole give one an idea of the perfect workmanship of the East Indians as well as points in gorgeously artistic decorations. Prom the farmers and women of Cape Colony came a gigantic screen of ostrich feathers. This screen is composed of pure white feathers and is about 5 feet across and 6 feet in length. Its value is almost beyond competition. There are shown with it three enormous screens of peacock feathers that for beauty probably can not be duplicated. WORTH MORE THAN WEIGHT IN GOLD. There is almost an inexhaustible array of caskets containing addresses from Indian princes and rulers and municipalities. Many of these are of ivory or ebony wrought with pure gold or silver trimmings and stud- ded with diamonds of rare brilliancy or with rubies, emeralds and sap- phires. Each of these is worth far more than its weight in gold. The diamonds alone are of the purest character and were specially selected by experts. There is one casket that contains the monogram of the late Queen in diamonds of four different shades —green, slate, white and pink. ^ -^ a cox ^ t -- Oi ■7- CJ o S IS .; CO +J &C '^ o ^ ^ |S •r; cj-j 2 di ex O) '3 j; ^ g •^ =H Cri ^ rj — •'' -(-• O OJ X "^II^ "^ r- "^ ? in o=H '^ ^ o o ^ '^:=! n •'^ c Tl ==.-t^-r ^ ■^ s P _^ ^ J-. 4J ■The ! pri dly-c 3. I (U .!-( m 1 ^ P^^S AIR of t is ra Sta fH 05^'^ ^ -(J 03 THE ndan s of Unit 03 a Cj « o o H-^ &jofl h3 &i3a3•2 P "S tg g ra ►^ c« £ O) "o 02 p '+1 ^ o W S =3 -^ ^ ei =« S .-s S^s = fe ?^n o .2^ .a rD ^ 53 S --tH cS <»" a tH Q S ^ — O) r— , tT) CO o ^cc f^a2 (» fl.53 So qp Q^ <13 03 'q3 fl 03 03 CS O 03 p J.§ So ^ '^ a a "^ a O JS .r-( S „. !» rt ® 03 -- O 03 TO '-H =H ^ >~j 03 03 3 S 03 S 5 03 ClHCa ^ 2 03 I ^-3 w "S s Q -^ o H 3^ W- . ■. =4-1 , O) 7! r^ =4H t^ ^ o rO S £ W c o .L^ h-j S O — ' OJL: i^ ri c o ts ct- o o k! ^ ^' — ?!; s I'i w ? c !>< = §■ Hi ^ . f— I ^ O r. --t . ■^ o c, ^ ~tJ o 0) rV, -IJ O C15 (Jjj o ^ y. s o • rH o r-H p '« >^ rH OJ r— 1 ',-i< i_j o M C2 0) ^ rH CM 0) rt o OJ f/i *r-2 rn p 0) a> s fl Co c« r^ -J—" n> n ■ — 1 f^~l J3 ^ CS ^ in S Queen Victoeia's Jubilee Peesents 97 The Chamber of Commerce of Singapore sent a silver case set with gems containing its address. Lady Broomfield of England sent to the Queen a bust of the Prince Consort in ivory. The bust is nearly a foot in height and nearly a foot in circumference, showing that the tusk from which it was made must have been enormous. The carving is perfect, and, indeed, the late Queen is said to have considered it the most perfect likeness of Prince Albert that has been made. GOLD CASKETS LOADED WITH GEMS. The city of Toronto sent a gold and silver casket studded with precious stones, containing the address, and there are innumerable other gold caskets from all parts of the British Empire that are fairly loaded with gems. The carving on some of the caskets is marvelous, and each is worth a study by any one interested in art in gold working. On many of the caskets and boxes the imperial crown is of gold, stud- ded with the purest of diamonds, making the crown alone worth thou- sands of dollars. The cylinders containing addresses from various com- mercial bodies are often of pure gold, handsomely carved, and the filigree work of others is so delicate as to appear as spider webs. The lavish display of gems in the various presents is what will first attract public attention. You couldn 't find such diamonds and rubies and emeralds and sapphires in all of Maiden Lane, New York, where are the jewelers and gem sellers of the Western world. The caskets of pure gold are frequently trimmed with rows of pearls of purest character and studded with diamonds, making a single exhibit worth thousands of dol- lars. AKTICLES NEVEK TO BE REPRODUCED. The ivory that has been used by the princes of India is alone of ines- timable value, and the carvings in many instances could not be duplicated, and in others would not be, the ruler presenting the gift seeing to it that it is not reproduced either in whole or in part. There was never anything like it, and there will never be its like again. It is this one fact that fre- quently makes a gift of priceless value. There is a Damascened gold and silver casket studded with gems, from the journalists and publishers of the Punjab, that is also of great value, and the workmanship of unequaled beauty and artistic design. 98 Queen Yictoeia's Jubilee Peesents deceptive antique effect. In mucli of the work by the people of India there is seemingly a crude- ness. This is because frequently a gold or silver casket or box seems to be old and battered, but that is a distinctive bit of their art. One huge gold casket, set with gems, has a broken hinge ; it is dented here and there as if some heavy case had fallen upon it or it had been dropped and trod- den upon. However, that was the artist's own conception, and every dent was faithfully worked in and the broken hinge is a part of the study of the maker. THE ASTOES COULDn't BUY ONE CASKET. There is one casket from an Indian Prince that is of carved ivory scroll with rows of purest pearls along the edge of the cover, and crossing the cover in the form of the letter X are two rows of gems, including dia- monds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires and other precious stones. The pearls alone would require the fortune of the Astors to own, to say nothing of the other gems used solely in the decoration of the casket, which, being of carved ivory, is itself worth an enormous sum of money. In caskets and boxes ebony and native woods have been very largely used. Sometimes they are perfectly plain and sometimes magnificently carved; sometimes they are studded with gems of rarity and then only with gold. There is one small box, not. more than six inches in length by two inches in height and four inches in width, that is of pure gold and almost solid, there being within only a small space for the address to the Queen. There is another box of about the same dimensions that is handsomely carved and with a large crown set with purest diamonds, while there are two rows of pure pearls used in the decoration of another. In the sup- ports of one cylinder are three elephants of carved ivory, with the cloth engraven upon each, and the eyes are of rubies. And in the decoration of another casket are tigers in gold with diamonds for eyes. PRECAUTION AGAINST LOSS OR THEFT. Of course, it is understood that not all of the presents sent to Queen Victoria for her jubilees in 1887 and 1897 were in the exhibit at the world's fair. This would be an impossibility, as all of them would alone require an immense building. The exhibit, however, contained the cream of the gifts and was the same as shown in Toronto, coming Queen Victoeia's Jubilee Peesents 99 to St. Louis from the Canadian city. While awaiting the opening of the fair it was strongly guarded in safety deposit vaults. At the exposition the utmost care was taken with the exhibit, and every case securely locked while the guards carefully watched every vis- itor, regardless of who he or she might be. Such precautions were ab- solutely necessary, remembering the fabulous value. The building was thoroughly fireproof and Colonel Watson was himself responsible for the safety of the collection, THE ILL-LUCK OMEN COUNTERACTED. Most superstitious women would have worried had they been in the position of W. Forster, custodian of the jubilee presents. Peacock feath- ers are said to be such omens of ill luck. Perhaps the fact that they were glass covered saved them from bringing any ill fortune upon the exhibit. Most women who have homes looked with a bit of envy upon the tiger chains of King Edward. They were suspended in the same case with the saddles and mountings presented to him when he visited India thirty years ago. Those same tiger chains would make the finest curtain chains. They are of silver links, rectangular shaped. A gold calabash from the Gold Coast of Africa proved a delightful ex- ample of the grotesque in art. It is like a large flat gourd. On its top is carved the figure of a bird, not the kind of birds that fly here or anywhere else— a weird bird that looks as if it had seen bird ghosts. Belov/ is a frog, still in something like the tadpole stage. The ideas in carving are those of the people who live on that Gold Coast. All those bom in December stood long in admiration before the cups and vases of silver set with turquoises. The vases are tall and have slen- der necks, and hanging from their handles are silver chains. Scattered over the vases and the cups are turquoises, just as if they were part of the silver of which the articles are made. In the same case was a fine signal trumpet made of ivory with gold mountings and a cord and tassels of many colors. Near the signal trumpet were three silver elephants fully caparisoned and with jewels set in their foreheads. WONDERFUL GOLD SPECIMENS. In the "gold" case, called so because it contained gold from the dif- ferent mines of the world, were two remarkable pieces from the richest 100 Queen Victokia's Jubilee Presents gold mines known— the Band in the Transvaal and the mines of western Australia. One was a dear little box made of 30 nuggets of fine gold. Its border is a wreath of shamrocks, roses and thistles made in fine gold. The roses are delicately leaved and the shamrock looks well in gold, while the thistle points are sharp. The ' ' tiger head ' ' inkstand is a useful thing that tells time and gives barometric reports at the same time. It is made of the skull of a tiger. One eye is set with a clock, the other with a barometer. The teeth of the skull close the inkstand. When they are opened in the place of the tongue is the inkstand, symbolical of the fact that it, too, can make words. The ivory writing case and workbox is womanish. In it is a thimble of gold and golden scissors, suggesting the fact that Queen Victoria was first of all a woman. She was very fond of the spice box with its six com- partments, inkstands and scent inhaler, all made of gold and silver and queerly shaped. All in all. Queen Victoria's Jubilee Presents were far more than a Seven Days' Wonder, They not only were a continuous cause for ad- miration and astonishment during the season of the exposition, but were a speaking evidence of the boundless hoarded wealth of the Indies and the natural taste and patience of her native workers. Such wealth at the effective disposal of the energetic, practical Caucasian would advance the entire world of finance, commerce and industry. CHAPTER VI. GIANTS AT THE, E,XPOSITION Patagonians Make Long Journey — Show Fondness for Whisky — Are Wonderful Horsemen — Were Never Conquered — Spaniards First Brought Horses — Have No Historic Tra- ditions — Women Flee from Men's Orgies — Marvelous Use of the Bolas. THE giant has always had a place in legends and literature. No other member of the human family, the world over, has so readily lent himself to the imagination of humankind. But never until now has the giant had a place at a world's fair. This is due to the fact that there is but one race of giants in the world— the Tehuelche Indians of Patagonia, at the extreme southern end of South America, and because never until now did any white man enjoy the con- fidence of these big barbarians to such an extent that he could induce them to leave the wilderness in which they live. PATAGONIANS MAKE LONG JOURNEY. The Patagonian giants— five of them — together with one woman, one child and a very small dog, arrived at the world's fair grounds after a journey of more than 10,000 miles. Like other world's fair notables, the Patagonians were early subjected to the tortures of photography, and, while they enjoyed the novelty for awhile, they grew tired of it in the end, with the result that Mulatto, the big chief, took decisive action and put his foot down on cameras. This is a literal statement, too, for one overzealous photographer tried to take a picture of the chief against his will and the chief promptly assailed the picture machine. SHOW FONDNESS EOR WHISKY. They assume a sitting posture most of the time, smoke tobacco in pipes and do not talk much. One of them smiles occasionally, but the solemn expression on the countenances of the others seldom change. The wife of the big chief is a study. Upon getting settled in her new quarters she smoked her pipe and quite frequently availed herself of a bottle of Kentucky bourbon. The Patagonians like whisky quite as well as some members of the Caucasian race, and it has the same effect upon them as is noticed in the North American Indian. 101 102 Giants at the Exposition When the Patagonian gets his fill of liquor he is in a fighting mood, and woe nnto the photographer who tries to photograph him. The Patagonian giants at the world's fair were secured in the Terri- troy of de Santa Cruz, in the Argentine Eepublic. They follow farming to some extent, but spend most of their time hunting and fishing and training wild horses. The giants are expert horsemen and it is said that the average Patagonian can ride the wildest horse that was ever found in South America. ARE WONDERFUL HORSEMEN. Before the Patagonians agreed to come to the world's fair they ex- acted a promise that they should be given horses to ride. As an extra inducement the exposition representative said he would provide them with white horses. Garbed in skins and blankets, the Patagonians were interesting, and Professor W. J. McGee, who was in charge of the Anthropological De- partment of the fair, said that the giants were one of the most satis- factor}^ exhibits of his section. Patagone, meaning big feet, is the word from which they take their name. It is a misnomer and is due to an amusing mistake made by early European visitors. The latter seeing the big skin shoes they wear in cold weather thought the foot coverings nature 's gift, and so named them. WERE NEVER CONQUERED. The Patagonians were the most stubborn of all the wild people en- countered by the Spanish conquistidores, and were never conquered. One of their forms of punishment is to cut off the soles of the feet, a custom which also obtained in Persia in early times. The average height of the tribe in the Chico valley, where they are tallest, is between 6 feet 3 inches and 6 feet 4 inches. It is customary to drink the blood of a horse at Pat- agonion Indian weddings. Formerly human sacrifices were made at wed- ding feasts. They formerly used the bow and arrow, but the bolas long ago supplanted these, and now a bow and arrow are never seen among them. Childless women of the tribe formally and publicly adopt some crea- ture upon which to lavish their affection. It is generally a little dog. Their only musical instrument is a sort of flute made of a bone. They are great people to paint themselves, which they do for show and also for protection from mosquitoes, which are a great pest in their country. Giants at the Exposition 103 spaniards fiest beought hoeses. Though there were no horses in Patagonia until the Spaniards brought them, the Indians have no legends of a time when they were not horsemen. Formerly, any Patagonian whose luck was bad, was priv- ileged to slay any old woman in the tribe whom he regarded as being possessed of the devils that discomfited him. Tehuelche children are not supposed to wear clothes until they are 6 or 7 years old, even in winter, and the winters are quite cold in that part of Patagonia where they live. The peculiar manner in which the Indians dress in cold weather, with great hoods of guanaco skin covering their heads, make them seem much more gigantic than they are. The region inhabited by the Tehuelches extends northward from the Strait of Magellan along the western border of that part of the country adjacent to the Atlantic coast. It is estimated that there are now but 500 Tehuelche Indians in Pata- gonia, though earlier travelers counted as many as 5,000 of them. Epi- demics have greatly reduced their numbers. When a Patagonian goes into mourning for the loss of a friend or a relative, he burns all he possesses. The Patagonian woman sews with bone needles, and her thread is the dried sinew of the guanaco. The dead are always buried in a sitting posture, as were the clitf dwellers of the south- western United States. Their evil spirit is the lizard, and they propitiate their saurian satan by offering a horse as a burnt sacrifice. Their primi- tive armament consists of a long spear and a skin buckler covered with metal and shell ornaments. HAVE NO HISTOEIC TRADITIONS. They have no historic traditions, and their oral records go no further back than their first meeting with Europeans. All Tehuelches like to have long hair, and the women oftentimes lengthen their braids with horse-hair switches. Patagonian babies are rarely seen. It is because of their lack of love for children and the epidemics that oftentimes sweep through their villages that they have almost become extinct. The natives of Patagonia make their clothes of the skins of the guana- co, sometimes called the South American camel, because it can go for daj^s without water. The Indians capture some 300,000 of them every year. It is said that they were the first Indians in South America to ap- preciate the value of horses, and that they reached the height of their 104 Giants at the Exposition power soon after the Spaniards brought horses from Europe and the Patagonian brave was enabled to ride against the wild footmen who were his foes. WOMEN FLEE FROM MEN 's OEGIES. When the Patagonian men decide to have a festival, the women and children of the tribe take all the weapons, war clubs, etc., and steal away into some gorge, where they remain in hiding until the men have done with their drunken orgies. Otherwise, the braves would kill all the weaker members of the tribe and would fall upon each other. The Patagonian horsemen of the plains are said to be nearer living Centaurs than any other riders on earth. They have beautiful horses, and when they ride at full speed, with their bronze bodies sitting their mounts as though a part of them, and their long black hair streaming out behind, they are beautiful specimens of the wild cavalier. MARVELOUS USE OF THE BOLAS. The expertness of Patagonians in throwing the bolas while riding at full speed has astonished foreigners who have penetrated into their country. Sometimes they can make a cast for as great a distance as 100 yards and bring down a flying deer, guanaco, wild horse or rhea. AYhen they wish to catch the creature alive they use wooden balls on the strings instead of stones. The Patagonian bolas is one of the most effective weapons ever de- vised by a primitive people. It consists of two round stones attached to opposite ends of a leather string, or thong. The native catches one of these in his hand and whirls the other about his head, finally launching it with great speed and accuracy. Whatever it strikes it coils around, and the stones will break the leg of a deer or rhea (South American os- trich), and even a man, while the strings will bind and throw a running horse. Sometimes the bolas has three stones instead of two. The Patagonian attitude toward the mother-in-law was in former days far from the joke with which this member of society is regarded among civilized peoples today. The mother-in-law was held accountable for the death of any member of the family, and her son-in-law was com- pelled, whether he would or no, to take her out into some secret place and dispatch her with a knife. This duty was sternly exacted by the chief of the tribe. CHAPTER VII. WONDERS OF THE GLORIOUS PIKE A Cosmopolitan Gathering — Like a Hasty Flight Abroad — Gazing Down Into Cairo — The Sim-a-la-la Man — Clever Curbstone Orators — An Oriental Mystery — Adieu to the Dancing Girls — What It Costs to See the Pike — Imperial Russian Opera Troupe — Snake Charmers — The Cliff Dwellers — Cingalese Devil Dancers — Spain and Paris — With the Eskimo Tribesmen. WE ARE on the grand old Pike at last, sitting in the International cafe. Adown the Pike comes a babble of strange tongues, the sound of un- familiar instruments, the noise of many bands, the roar of animals from many climes, the voice of ^* barkers" descanting upon the various en- tertainments along this great cosmopolitan thoroughfare, the tramp of countless feet and the indescribable din that only thousands hastily thrown together from all parts of the globe could make in the exulta- tion of a play day, free from all restraint. At the next table sits a grim old Sioux warrior in all the glory of paint and feathers. Beside him is a Boer, resting after the performance at the South African Concession. A giant negro in the habiliments of the African desert makes up the third member of this strange group. A COSMOPOLITAN GATHERHsTG. Near at hand are a dozen young women from the Russian village op- posite, who have run in to rest a moment before their next show. Robust, swarthy of face and in the gay attire of peasants of the Crimea they form a strange contrast to the solemn visaged and ebony hued son of the desert who sits staring at them. Three Turks in fez and baggy garments have stopped to chat with them and a couple of Filipinos are drawing up chairs. Far Cathay, too, is represented, for have we not a group of Chinese in court costume drawing near? Off in the corner a band of French musicians are playing a lively air that smacks of the shores of the Mediterranean. A Venetian gondolier, 105 106 Wonders of the Gloeious Pike stopping on his way to worl*:, has been caught by the familiarity of the tuneful selection and has burst into song— a song from the heart, of sunny lands he longs to see. LIKE A HASTY FLIGHT ABROAD. We have suddenly been transported beyond the mundane confines of prosaic America, with its eternal business and routine commercial grind. We are now in the heart of the Street of all Nations ; the Mecca toward which all known peoples of the world have turned their faces, to mingle as never before. Kipling has told us of sitting in an unheard of little retreat at Port Said in the heart of the district given to the whirling, dancing girls, fakirs and the wanderers of the earth; of seeing strange sights, while being half deafened by the indescribable maddening clatter of almost innumerable nationalities. In the few minutes it has taken us to step from the fair grounds proper into the Pike we have discounted Kipling and his experiences. In the heat of the hour, gazing through the latticed windows up and down the brick paved thoroughfare with its shifting sands and its shift- ing multitudes of strangely mixed humanity, it would require no great stretch of the imagination to carry one to Cairo, Bagdad, distant Bom- bay—or for that matter to any point within the knowledge of man on the face of the earth. GAZING DOWN INTO CAIRO. Through those same latticed windows we gaze down into the courts of Cairo. Lumbering old camels move slowly back and forth and the patient ass rivals the donkey boy in seeing which can move the slower. From every niche and corner a merchant, fresh from the bazaars of the Orient, calls forth the quality of his strange wares. Whirling dervishes and dancing girls, whose muscles obey their every desire, are perform- ing weird evolutions for the edification of the open-eyed and open- mouthed throng. A huge Simeon, whose resemblance to his tawny master suggests eloquently the correctness of the Darwinian theory, has caught our eye. Ah, he begs ! Again we comment on the resemblance between master and monkey. We flip him a penny through the latticed window. He has caught the coin ! He looks at it disdainfully and hurls it far away. We Wonders of the Gloeious Pike 107 toss him a nickel and with greedy paw he hides it in his tiny bag. Like his associates, this child of the jungle has learned the value of Backsheesh. THE SIM-A-LA-LA MAN. But we are wasting time on monkeys. Behold these two towering figures that approach astride a sorrowful ship of the desert. With what lusty strokes they beat the time-worn kettledrums slung across the cam- el's hump. One is about to speak; let us hear what he has to say: ' ' Sim-a-la-la ! Grood-a-sim-a-la-la ! Very-good-a-sim-a-la-la ! La ! ! ! " Bravo! He has made a hit. We must confess we don't know very much about the subject of this learned discourse, but it must be all right, for there goes the throng in the wake of the weary camel and the lusty sim-a-la-la man to a distant corner where fiery spirited, piratical appear- ing individuals are about to engage in a deadly assault upon each other with blunt swords. CLEVER CUEBSTONE OEATORS. And now another familiar sound smites the ear. It is the cry of the ''barker". The genial ''spieler" is abroad in the land and he numbers legion. Listen to his convincing logic, his masterful argument, glowing eloquence and seductive, alluring invitation to witness the best show on the grounds. In stentorian tones his voice assails. Somehow we have fallen under the influence and find ourselves drifting from the Interna- tional rendezvous to the sphere of his influence. Like the ancient mariner, he holds us with his glittering eye. It is worth the price of admission to hear this Pike orator enlarge upon the beauty, incomparable grace, mar- velous ability and the other characteristics of La Belle Fatima, Le Belle Eosa and Little Egypt. "They are here," he cries. "They are here, giving hourly exhibi- tions of their wondrous art, precisely as they have done by royal com- mand before the crowned heads of Europe." "They are here," he cries again. "The famous, the unrivaled La Belle Fatima, the resistless Little Egypt, just as they appeared before delighted multitudes at the great Columbus Exposition at Chicago. ' ' AN" OEIENTAL. MYSTERY. We smile, for have we not seen an army of La Belle Fatimas at all points of the compass and encountered the beauteous daughter of Egypt 108 WONDEES OP THE GlOEIOUS PiKE performing simultaneously in New York and San Francisco f But why smile? Behold, they stand before us in all the charm of tinsel and of paint. Ah, it is refreshing to behold these beauteous maids at this moment and realize that when we turn away we shall encounter La Belle Fatima and Little Egypt in at least four other shows before we have walked as many hours. Yes, Little Egypt is here. It is part of the mysticism of the East that there should be so many of her. We pass on. Wherever we go strange sights and stranger sounds are met. Entertainers and tradesmen of every land and every clime be- siege us with their wiles to leave our shekels with them. In twenty min- utes we can speed from the Tyrolean Alps to Mysterious Asia; we can reach the spot where Creation is re-enacted several times a day, then pass on to the realms of eternity. We can visit the North Pole, bury ourselves in the strange habitations of the Cliff Dwellers in the delights of a sub- marine journey. We can board the fast express and fly along the route of the Trans-Siberian Railway. We can lunch in Japan, partake of din- ner in China and spend the evening in the tea gardens of Ceylon. Lovers of the gruesome may witness the destruction of Galveston and those of a warlike spirit may revel in a battle at sea. Truly it is wonderful— this street of all nations and gathering place of all peoples. ADIEU TO THE DANCING GIELS. With nearly two miles of attractions and forty-four distinct shows, it cost less than $20 to go down the world 's fair Pike, from ' ' A to Z. " The general admission to any show on the Pike was not more than 50 cents, while the vast majority of them cost only 25 cents to enter the main gates. A few charged only a general admission of 10 cents, while reduced rates, in every instance, were made for children. The Pike attractions at the world's fair outnumbered those of the Chi- cago exposition by a ratio of two to one, while the area covered was greater. No exposition ever given in the world has offered the number and variety of attractions in a similar department as were offered by the Louisiana Purchase Exposition. WONDEES OF THE GlOKIOUS PiKE 109 WHAT IT COSTS TO SEE THE PIKE. While a world 's fair visitor could begin at the first Pike show and see every attraction along the line, he could not spend any money for wares that would be offered if he desired to remain within the limit of $20. A conservative estimate of the cost of "doing the Pike," and adjoin- ing concessions of a character that places them properly in Pike classifi- cation, follows: German Tyrolean Alps— General admission, 25 cents; four attrac- tions; combined admission, 70 cents. Total, 95 cents. Irish Industrial Exhibit— General admission, 25 cents; admission to Irish Theater, 50 cents ; other attractions, estimated cost, 50 cents. To- tal, $1.25. Under and Over the Sea, an Illusion— General admission, 25 cents; no other charge. Mysterious Asia— General admission, 15 cents; combined charge for admission to native theaters and other attractions, 60 cents. Total, 75 cents. Streets of Seville— General admission, 25 cents. Temple of Mirth— 10 cents. Moorish Palace— General admission, 25 cents. Glass-Weavers' Palace— General admission, 25 cents. Hereafter, an Illusion— General admission, 25 cents. Hagenbeck's Wild Animal Show— General admission, 25 cents. Five inside attractions, with a combined admission charge of $1. Ancient Kome, including Coliseum, Roman Theater and Street of the Augustine Period— General admission, 25 cents. Combined charge for other attractions, 75 cents. Total, $1. Old St. Louis— General admission, 25 cents; admission to arena and other attractions, 40 cents. Total, 65 cents. Creation, one of the largest illusions on the Pike— General admission, 50 cents. Paris and French Village— General admission, 25 cents; admission to theater, 25 cents ; other attractions, 25 cents. Total, 75 cents. Palais du Costume— General admission, 25 cents. Infant Incubator— General admission, 25 cents. A trip to Siberia and Russian Village, combined in one attraction- General admission, 25 cents ; additional charges, 35 cents. Total, 60 cents. 110 Wonders of the Gloeious Pike Imperial Eussian Opera company from Moscow, in pleasing charac- teristic songs and dances— General admission, 25 cents; no other charges. The Clitf Dwellers— General admission, 25 cents; theater, 25 cents; snake dance and other attractions, 25 cents. Total 75 cents. Chinese Village— General admission, 25 cents; admission to Chinese Theater, 25 cents. Total, 50 cents. Eskimo Village— General admission, 25 cents; combined charge for other attractions, 25 cents. Total, 50 cents. Jim Key, educated horse— General admission, 15 cents. The Old Plantation— General admission, 15 cents. The Magic Whirlpool, spectacular— General admission, 15 cents. Battle Abbey, cyclorama and plastic battle history— General admis- sion, 25 cents. Deep Sea Diving, showing divers in operation— General admission, 15 cents. Naval exhibition, with miniature battleships in action— General ad- mission, 25 cents. Extra charge of 25 cents is made for reserved seats. The Galveston Flood— A mechanical picture of the destruction of Gal- veston. General admission, 25 cents. New York to the North Pole— An illusion. General admission, 25 cents. Fairyland— A water chute idea. General admission, 10 cents. Colorado Gold Mine— General admission, 10 cents. Poultry Farm— General admission, 25 cents. Hale's Fire Fighters— General admission, 25 cents. Japanese Village— General admission, 25 cents. To Japanese Theater and other attractions, 50 cents. Total, 75 cents. Constantinople and Cairo— General admission, 10 cents. Transvaal Spectacle— Admission, 25 and 50 cents. impeeial eussian opera troupe. All the Russian Pike exhibits were in the hands of this same con- cessionaire, although the principal one, the Imperial Eussian Opera troupe, was accorded to a Eussian- American manager and actor, Ellis Glickman, whose Yiddish impersonations had made him famous in all the larger cities of America. In his Eussian theater at the very center of the Pike, opposite the International cafe, were assembled about 50 clever WONDEKS OF THE GlOEIOUS PiKE 111 Muscovite performers, who gave a splendid operetta several times daily and each evening. In this troupe were some twenty Eussian young ladies, very beautiful, of the better class who were renowned for their singing and the dancing of the Eussian national and peasant dances. Many could speak no Eng- lish, but were proficient in Gferman, French or Italian. Most of them were accompanied by relatives and all were famous for their beauty and ability in their special line. Eussian songs and dances are wonderfully lively and are entirely different from anything seen in America. The wonderful melody and rhythm of the chorus songs are always favorably commented on by Ameri- can writers. Eussia has never before been represented at an American exposition, hence these productions, aside from the war interest, attracted the studious and the curious as well as the pleasure seeker and music lover. Notwithstanding Eussia 's withdrawal from official exhibition and notwithstanding that Eussian merchants patriotically donated the several millions of roubles intended for exhibits at St. Louis, to the ' ' Eed Cross ' ' Society for the relief of suffering soldiers, (an action that American mer- chants might have approved and adopted under similar circumstances) the enterprising Eussians put in an appearance in good style after all their troubles. Their exhibit on the Pike included a trip over the Trans- Siberian railroad, a Eussian village and Eussian eating house. SNAKE CHARMERS FROM DISTANT LANDS. Men who are apt to drink not wisely but too well during the giddy whirl of the world's fair, probably know that sixteen Hindoo snake charmers were on hand to add to their exhilaration. With the snake charmers were also some Indian jugglers. With the Moqui snake dancers the Indian charmers gave a very fair representation to the snake industry. The Indian charmers belong to the class of industry which exists in both India and Ceylon, the members of which make their living by hypnotizing the deadly cobra de capello, which is only found in those two tropical countries. The Hindus brought with them a supply of the reptiles for charming purposes. Mr. Peter de Abrew, of the Ceylon Commission, states that although these serpents are poisonous nuisances they are held in rever- 112 WONDEES OF THE GlORIOUS PiKE ence by the Cingalese and Indians, and it would be very hard to induce them to kill one of this snake family. They are always taken alive, the method being to noose them into a bag, and release them in a jungle. The cobra has an ear for music, and knowing its weakness the snake faker gets his pipe, and with its siren tones lures its from its fastness. Under the spell of the harmony it shakes out its beautifully marked hood to the tune of the music, while an as- sistant of the musician grips at the head, taking care that it does not sting him, and then draws its fangs with a pair of pincers. After this his snakeship is caged in a basket and gradually learns to know his master, and what tricks are expected of him. With other snakes whose fangs have been drawn he travels about the country with his mas- ter, who, for a pittance, plays his music while the snakes dance their hoods in time to it. THE CLIFF DWELLEES. One of the interesting shows at the world 's fair was the native pueblo of Cliff Dwellers on the Pike. This was in charge of W. Maurice Tobin, who is said to be America 's best known exhibitor of these strange people. The true American was found in this historical aggregation. These people are the direct descendants of the Moki and Zuni tribes, which met the Spanish conquistadores 350 years ago. They come from the famous Mancos and Casa Verde canyons of Arizona and New Mexico, and are as picturesque and interesting today as they were to the early explorers. The Cliff Dwellers' home on the Pike was an exact reproduction of the rude habitation in the remote canyons. The exhibit was so arranged that the public could climb up the 100-foot cliff which represented the Mold pueblo, and passing through these dwellings obtain a correct idea of the habits, modes and customs of these prehistoric people. A visitor might see them in all their industrial activity, including basket-making; a native pottery in operation; blanket weaving; native artisans and sil- versmiths plying their crafts; a reproduction of the famous church of San Miguel, in which a museum of curios and ancient relics was shown ; the Moki catacombs exhibiting the manner of burial of the ancient race ; native goats, burros and dogs wandered about the village, giving a touch of realism to the exhibition. In the Moki theater the lighter side of the life was shown ; quaint bridal costumes, native dances, ancient chants, a native orchestra playing on stringed instruments made of dogs' ribs, o3 tJU > ^ fl > oi •v -=1 C — 1 & a> nS rid > fi <* •S £-3 CO i> •^ 5 • b. 03 <» ^^ Oh i o ^ S -^ bXi 5 03 O .^ c^ P be « n3 <» q^ GO ^ cd oi <" a; o H Ti o a P 11 (S n3 o Ph H ;. ris) =(-|- +^ P ^ss g 3- ^3 4 ? r- ^iir S-S^? " \C ■Ti- d fl ,i o H -IJ O rO 03 -"• ^ 4-1 n i-H 0) o O) r1 tn a o o t/j c3 o 03 C3 o EH 02 =H < ^H P4 r^ ■iH PJ ■T^ +^ 1 03 o nrj 03 H fl a M cti O EH 03 !zi 03 Cfl 1=1 Wonders of the Glorious Pike 121 sheeps' toes, tortoise shell rattles and sun-baked squash, A company of boomerang throwers exhibited their skill, and the native priests showed for the first time in this country the marvelous snake dance of the Moki tribe. The exhibit from an historical, ethnological and educational stand- point, was one of the features of the world's fair. SPANISH invaders ARRIVE. The story of the meeting of these primitive people with the Spaniards is one of deep historical interest. It is related by Mr. Tobin, who had heard it from the chiefs of the tribe. ''BiCneath the town then perched on the higher slope of the Wolpi mesa, came a band of horsemen," he said. ''Some were clad in armor and warlike trappings badly damaged and battered by wear and tear, but impressive to the Indian, who for the first time saw the white man. Perhaps the Molds were not very friendly. The warrior priest strode down the trail followed by his band and drew a line of sacred meal across the path to the town, over which, according to immemorial cus- tom, no one might come Vv^ith impunity. This ' dead line ' brought death instead to the Molds. At the fire of the dreadful guns they fled up the narrow' trail to refuge. The Spaniards dared not follow up the rocky way, but camped for the night by a spring. This is the first picture of the Mokis of Wolpi, who were thus introduced to the proud Castilian, bent on reaching new lands to despoil. " And the Indians of those days are the forebears of the Mokis and Zunis who were on the Pike. CINGALESE DEVIL DANCERS. Among the weird and interesting customs of the Orient shown on the Pike there was, perhaps, none more so than the devil dance of the Cinga- lese performed by a troupe of natives from Ceylon. Devil dancing is an institution introduced into the island from India. The dancers are all powerful men of excellent physique, whose attainments have the dignity of a profession in the island. They have a leader called the Kattendija, who trains the dancers, not only in their steps, but also in the incantations which go with the dance. The dance is meant to invoke the help of Devas and to disperse evil spirits or elementals which populate the astral world, and are supposed to bring about certain kinds of sickness. The afflicted having faith in this 122 .Wonders of the Gloeious Pike particular form of cure, seek the aid of the devil dancer, who goes through the imposing form of ceremonial at first, afterwards calling his troupe into service by dancing and chanting to the accompaniment of music. The dance is performed generally at night by the light of torches and to the accompaniment of clouds of burning incense, the scene being both weird and picturesque. The ceremonial has no connection with the relig- ious beliefs of the Buddhists, instances having been known where natives converted to Christianity have sought the aid of the devil dancer. SPAIN AND PARIS ON THE PIKE. Spanish dancing was one of the features of the Streets of Seville. This concession was divided into six departments. The Court of Lions, which was considered one of the most artistic portions of that historical structure, the Alhambra, erected by the Moors at Granada in the Thir- teenth Century, was reproduced. The market place of Triana, in which Spanish and Mexican wares were sold from booths, was one of the prin- cipal features of the exhibit. Dancing and other frivolities also con- tributed largely to the performance at "Paris on the Pike." WITH THE ESKIMO TRIBESMEN. There were very few more interesting exhibits of strange people than that of the Eskimo village on the Pike. This was a veritable village with all the phases of life found in the homes of the northern wilds. The famous explorer, Capt. Dick Craine, a picturesque argonaut, was manager of the attraction. There were 28 real Eskimos in the village. Eighteen came from Behr- ing Sea and the balance from the country around Labrador and Hudson Bay territory. Those from Behring Sea were in charge of the famous guide, L. L. Bales, who accompanied the late President McKinley through Alaska. In the group was Scondo, the great chief of the Aleutian island- ers. Seventeen tons of prehistoric instruments of war, peace, music and the arts were among the many features on exhibition. Besides these there was the noted "Hootch," the United States mail dog, driven by Mr. Craine over 74 miles of snow in one day. Then came herds of other noted Eskimo dogs, reindeer and numerous other attrac- tions, exhibiting the natives in their daily life, such as by dances, sports, singing and wedding ceremonies. CHAPTER VIII. THE, PIKE'S SPECTACULARS Under and Over the Sea — From New York to the North Pole — All Aboard for the Pole — A Review of Old St. Louis — Story of Creation Depicted — ^Awakening of Life — An Artificial Whirlpool — Hereafter, a Gruesome Show — A Tour of Hell — Ancient Rome Reviewed — Hale's Great Fire Exhibition. IN THE way of brilliant, bewildering and gorgeous spectaculars the Pike never had a rival at any international exposition. They de- picted everything in the heavens and earth, over and under the sea, real or imaginary, horrible or charming. Hell, the Creation, the North Pole, Rome, dizzy whirlpools, lofty mountain peaks, calm sunsets— nothing was overlooked. ''under and over the sea." One of the first and most novel features encountered on reaching the Pike was Under and Over the Sea, an illusion depicting a trip to Paris by submarine boat and return by airship. In a mammoth building the huge black oval back of the submarine boat is in plain view of the passer-by. Passengers are seen entering through the open hatchway, which is then closed and hermetically sealed and the boat sinks from view, swallowed in the great pool. Down, down the boat appears to sink to the ocean's very bed. The dense marine growth, forests of tall plants and trees, coral recesses, reefs, and rock caverns, all holding some form of fish life, can be seen through the plate glass windows of the boat. The great search- light sends its rays through the transparent waters as the bpat rushes onward, and the topography of the ocean's bed completely changes. What a feast for the eyes— a perfect kaleidoscope of green, yellow, orange, violet, indigo and blue. It is the mermaids' playground, their beautiful gold and silver be-scaled bodies within arm's length of the boat, as they gracefully bound through the water. Monsters of the deep are overtaken and quickly left behind. Arriving at Paris after an eventful voyage and disembarking, passengers are taken in elevators to the top of Eiffel Tower. From this vantage point a birdseye view of the French metropolis is afforded. 123 124 The Pike 's Spectaculars AIESHIP IS NEXT. Here a massive airship restlessly tugs at its moorings, and all aboard, the weird craft commences its flight through space. Like a bird's, the great wings move, and soon the fading city is but a speck. With the swiftness of the lightning's flash the airship dashes along the pathless wastes. Aerial monstrosities, comets, meteors and electric storms are met and passed in safety, and soon the distant illumination of the exposi- tion greets the bewildered vision. The great bird-like ship descends, and passengers find themselves once more on the Pike. FROM NEW YORK TO THE NORTH POLE. Somewhat similar is From New York to the North Pole, slightly removed from the Pike, yet classed among its attractions. It describes the trip from which it takes its name, the spectator boarding a realistic ship at a typical New York pier. On the side of the ship next to the building the passengers begin to experience the delights of a summer sea trip. When the anchor is weighed the siren shrieks and the engineer gets his signals through a tinkling bell, the cord of which is pulled on the pilot bridge. ALL ABOARD FOR THE POLE. As the vessel apparently gets under way the stentorian tones of the captain's voice are heard as he shouts his orders. Eeal water rushes by the ship's side and a view of New York harbor, with many puffing tugs is seen. Sandy Hook slips by and the Long Island shore fades into the distance as the vessel passes from the brown water of the harbor and breasts the blue waves of the Atlantic. As the ship proceeds northward the weather changes, and when the frozen Arctic waters are reached the stewards hand around wraps and hot tea to the women, the men having provided themselves with stronger warming beverages to ward off the chilly blasts that are swept from the icebergs. The ship is finally blocked in the ice floes and sleds are brought out. The passengers are transferred to these and the hunt for the pole is con- tinued over the ice. A few of the caches built by Greeley and Peary are visited, and in one place a document is found revealing the easiest and nearest route to the Pole. This advice is followed and beneath the everchanging rays of the The Pike's Spectaculaes 125 Aurora Borealis a tattered American flag is seen flying from a jagged spur, which is found by the instruments to be the true apex of the earth. The spectacle was conceived by E. J. Austin and built under his direc- tion for Emmett W. McConnell, who controlled the Galveston Flood and Battle Abbey exhibits. A REVIEW OF "old ST. LOUIS." An interesting feature of the Pike was "Old St. Louis." The historical old Cabildo of New Orleans, reproduced, was seen at the entrance of the concession. The first church built in St. Louis was reproduced, and in it were heard lectures on the early history of the city. The old Courthouse was reproduced and in the Government House a play recalled the purchase of the Louisiana Territory. Napoleon, Livingston, Monroe and Marbois, the main figures in the vast transfer were all portrayed. Here and there in the concession were seen reproductions of the homes of old settlers of St. Louis, who lived there before 1803. A Wild West performance in a big arena and an orchestra and res- taurant with singing girls, yodlers and high wire performers complete the concession. STORY OF creation DEPICTED. ' ' Creation ' ' was a Pike attraction of commendable merit that appealed strongly alike to religionists, lovers of the artistic, students of the pos- sibilities of stage craft and the merely curious. It was, perhaps, one of the most delightful things of its kind and cost not less than a quarter of a million to install for a few brief months. Unlike most world's fair side-shows there was a lasting satisfaction in having seen it and care- fully examined it. At the entrance of the panorama was an immense and strikingly beautiful sculptural piece, the artist's conception of Eve, the first woman. Back of this figure was a large waterfall, which had frosted glass for its background, and to either side there were seen wide streams of running water. Little boats, with seating capacity for six persons, floated in these streams, and, starting at the water falls, at the base of the Statute of Eve, one was taken through winds and turns, until, after going twice around the dome, he found himself in the midst of the rast amphitheater, with the chaos of the unmade world facing him. 126 The Pike 's Spectaculaes A TRIP TO EDEN. The journey to the amphitheater was one of the most remarkable illu- sions to be seen on the world's fair Pike. Drifting slowly down the stream, one passed beautiful scenes, which were allegorical descriptions of the world at its various stages. From the Garden of Eden he was lifted gradually through every century, until he finally completed the circuit of the water race and looked upon the pictures of the Twentieth Century. Entering the amphitheater, the scene was begun over again. The chaos effect obtained by the designer, Eoltair, was a master effort in art conception. Volcanoes were seen at a great distance, emitting smoke and lava from their craters. The land and waters were mixed, the clouds intermingling with the whole, and one great scene of utter disorder met the eyes of the spectators. One by one the scenes changed. The volcanoes died. The clouds lifted. By a peculiar electric lighting effect the vapors could be seen passing over the lands. The water was separated from the land and the earth gradually shaped itself. Then the decorating of the earth began. Trees and shrubbery sprouted up, as if by magic ; the sun rose and set ; the moon appeared and a dull gray light rested upon the newly made earth. AWAKENING OF LIFE. The plant life increases before the gaze of spectators and life is intro- duced. The lights were modulated so as to fit the scenes and in time one saw the moon go down and the darkness of night rest upon the universe. The trees and plants of the earth disappeared, the clouds vanished, and when the audience awakened from its dream the great doors of the amphi- theater were found open and the spectators discovered that they had not been living in a forgotten age, but that they were in the Twentieth Cen- tury, in St. Louis and on the Pike. The music of a great pipe organ lent itself to the enchantment of the scenes and together with the impressive voice of the scriptural reader contributed to an experience not to be soon forgotten. iThe Pike 's Spectaculars 127 an artificial whirlpool. Probably nowhere else in the world could be seen an aquatic marvel equal to the Magic Whirlpool on the Pike. Ed. M. Bayliss, a noted showman, has outrivaled nature in the production of an artificial mael- strom at a cost of nearly $100,000. The famed Charybdis of Ulysses' day and the terrifying sea-giants off the coast of Norway are as painted toys compared to the creation of Mr. Bayliss, for the Magic Whirlpool of the St. Louis Exposition was elevated 60 feet in the air. It came apparently from nowhere and swirled with terrific roar at the feet of the spectator. Women and children entered the maelstrom, disappeared and returned again utterly unharmed and eager to repeat the experience. All the accompaniments of the most evil disposed whirlpool known to fiction, were there, minus the danger and plus the mystery. Water came tumbling in a silver sheen from an elevation 60 feet high and fell in a circle, around which boats were flying. Boats crowded with passen- gers entered the swirl and were carried away. They appeared soon at the mouth of the whirlpool and swept round and round on the verge. Suddenly they disappeared only to appear again under the sheen and from thence be borne away to the accompaniment of music into a fairy- land of grottoes and fountains and flowers. Mr. Bayliss has a reputation for mystifying effects with electricity and light. His ''Land of the Midnight Sun" was the wonder of the Pan-American exposition at Buffalo, but the Magic Whirlpool trans- cended them all in mystery and interest. It was a veritable scenic railway. COST OF THE PRODUCTION. The water for the whirlpool came from the Mississippi river, 17 miles away. Three powerful centrifugal pumps were employed, throwing 49,000 gallons per minute. Five highpower electric motors furnished the power for the pumps. The building was an ornate structure, occupying a prominent place on the Pike and covering about 50,000 square feet. It contained besides the whirlpool, fountains, grottoes and gardens, 2,700 feet of railroad track and 2,300 feet of water canal. The production cost the management $90,000 for construction and there was an enormous daily expenditure for maintainanee. The electric current alone cost $28,000 for the seven months' period of the fair. 128 The Pike's Spectaculars *'HEEEAETEE" — A GETJESOME SHOW. Visitors to the ''Hereafter" on the Pike became for the time being spirits of the world beyond. This transformation took place immediately on entering through the great arched corridor in the apartment first visited, and known as the Cave of the Dead. A guide to the land of darkness escorted the visitor to the outer or First Circle of Hades. Crossing Acheron, the Eiver of Woe, in Charon's Boat, he visited the Infernal Judge "Minos," dispens- ing justice to an endless line of wicked spirits. Further on he partook of the beautiful visions of Faust and then passed on to the Third or Frozen Circle, crossing Stj'gian Lake into the City of Dis, or Eternal Fires, viewing all about the various punishments of abandoned souls, ever and anon startled by the inexplainable appear- ance of a frightened spirit, who in its efforts to avoid contaminating mortal contact, occasioned many ludicrous situations. You finally arrived at the great Throne Eoom and entered the presence of his Satanic Majes- ty, mingling with his courtiers, skeletons and subordinate devils. A TOUE OF HELL. Hereafter was no place for nervous women or children or for ultra sensitive men to visit. During the writer's visit on the opening night, one woman was carried out fainting, and others begged to leave without having to witness the entire show. The whole show is striking and any one that sees it will no doubt remember its weird appearance long after he has passed through its horrors. daphne's GEO VE. After leaving the sickening sights illustrating Hell, more pleasant views were disclosed. You now passed through Daphne's Grove, ascend- ing and entering through the gates of Paradise. Spectacular illusion ef- fects unfolded the biblical history of the ' ' Three Wise Men of the Desert. ' ' This impressive production, graceful evolutions of a host of ethereal bodies, the dimly discerned and far distant "Star of Bethlehem," ever increasing in brilliancy, and the final culmination, the bursting of Celes- tial Dawn, intensified by the soft echoing strains of sacred song were depended upon by the management to offset the gruesome introduction to the place. The Pike's Spectaculaes 129 ANCIENT KOME EEVIVED. Visitors found ''Ancient Eome" an educational feature. A few hours within its gates gave the observer much valuable information about the customs and manners of the Romans. The larger part of the exhibit was illustrative of the Augustine period. Within its gates were men and women dressed in the costumes of slaves, peasants and nobles of that time. Gladiators were lined on each side with hundreds of statues of the most famous senators, statesmen and generals of early Eome. The buildings were reproductions on a small scale of those destroyed by Emperor Nero. Marriage, funeral and like ceremonies were performed in the manner of the ancient Eomans. Dancers, acro- bats, wire-walkers and trapeze performers furnished abundant amuse- ment. Within a large amphitheater was seen a reproduction of a Eoman hippodrome, twelve chariots and forty-eight horses being used in the races. In a replica of the ancient arena were witnessed contests between gladiators. Giants, clothed in full armor, experts in the use of the broad- sword, daily fought in the ring. With their hands inclosed in the cestus, the boxing glove of the Eomans, two stalwart men also strove for suprem- acy. Other Eoman games and contests, dancing girls and a presentation of ' ' looping the gap, ' ' a bicycle feat, make up the programme. HALE's GREAT EIRE EXHIBITION". A feature well worth seeing was the fire fighting exhibition given by Hale's Firefighters, an organization under command of the former chief of the Kansas City fire department. Hale, whose fire fighting inventions have done much towards rendering life and property safe. The destruc- tion of a tall tenement house was shown, with thrilling rescues and exceed- ingly interesting drills. The exhibition was calculated to show, and most successfully accomplished its purpose, that the modern fire bri- gade, while it must be composed of brave and hardy members, depends for its greatest success upon intelligent and unceasing discipline. It matters not how great the spirit of the hero of the flames, if he has not passed through a thorough course of scientific instruction and drill, he is going to fail at some critical time to do the proper thing; but a Hale Firefighter never fails to do the right thing at the right time, and that, almost instinctively. 130 The Pike's Spectaculaes KAISING BABIES BY INCUBATORS. In discussing the Pike more than passing mention is due the baby incubator. Chicken hatching by incubator was known in the time of Ramases, but it has taken centuries to apply the same methods to tlie raising of babies. The baby incubator, as demonstrated at the fair, is a nearly square box of silver metal placed about three feet from the floor on four iron supports. It is air-tight, except for the ventilating pipe, which sends into the box a constant stream of filtered air, fresh from the outside. The proper temperature is maintained by the air passing over hot- water pipes placed in the floor of the cage. An exhaust pipe carries away the impure air. A wheel revolving quickly in the inside of the incubator, according to the air exhausted by the tiny lungs, becomes an indicator of the rapid- ity of the oxygen being consumed in the nest by its occupant. Suitable apartments were arranged in other parts of the building for the exhibition of unoccupied incubators, where they could be examined in detail by the visitors. This locality was constantly thronged with inter- ested spectators to many of whom the experience was new. The general conclusion was that, for delicate children, the expectation of life would be vastly improved if the parents could take advantage of such a ' ' bring- ing up." CHAPTER IX. SPIRIT OF THE, TWENTIETH CENTURY The Transportation Display at the Fair — Brothers to the Automobile — The Automobile Everywhere in Evidence — A Decisive Innovation — B. & O. Pioneer Display — Trans- portation, the Life of Civilization — ^Willard A. Smith, the Department Chief — Lab- oratory Tests of Locomotives — Old Trains and Old Crews — Complete Electric Railway System — ^Development of Naval Architecture — Atlantic Passenger Traffic Illustrated — Strategy of American Warfare — Airship Contests. STANDING right by the Administration entrance, almost the first of the series of principal buildings and all but one the largest of the ex- position, the white-walled moss-green-roofed Transportation building gave a fair idea of the stature of the fair and of the lesson it teaches of the progress in the arts and industries since the Columbian exposition at Chicago. Here was spread a collective display of the world's means of travel from the first to the latest, by land, water and air. BEOTHEES TO THE AUTOMOBILE. Here was the promise of an exhibition of motor cars greater than that of any other single medium of travel and one of the most extensive, most attractive and most progressive displays in the whole grounds. Strangely enough, the occasion was the debut of automobiles at such affairs. The buggies and the wagons and the boats and the trains had all been at the White City, Chicago. One automobile had been there as a curiosity. Bicycles had been there by the scores and hundreds. Here almost 80,000 square feet were devoted to automobiles. The bicycle was here too in small but respectable array, but equal to it in importance as a collective display was the motor bicycle, proud in the honor of being younger brother to the new king of all the things that go. THE AUTOMOBILE EVEEYWHEEE IN EVIDENCE. No change in the affairs and ways of men could be more noticeable than that marked by this exhibit of means of transportation when it is compared with that which was behind the great gold doorway at Chicago. Even the two exhibitors of bicycles had those with motors above the pedals. Even the exhibitors of boats had those which were the outgrowth of the automobile industry. Even the exhibitors of carriages and wagons 131 132 Spirit of the Twentieth Century had automobiles within the same spaces. Even the exhibitors of harness and saddlery had appurtenances for automobiles. Even the exhibitors of carriage and bicycle lamps and tires made up the greater parts of their exhibits with goods for automobilists. Even the exhibit of railway trains was encroached upon by the automobile railway inspection car. A decisive innovation. The Transportation building was the one of all of the divisions of the exposition which presented a decisive innovation in the character of the things which it held. Perhaps only of the whole fair did the wireless telegraph station equal it in the graphic suggestion of a sweeping effect upon the world's work. It was the world 's work that the fair depicted. It was in these two phases particularly that a marvelous shifting of methods since the Chicago exjposition was broadly noticeable. B. & o. pioneee display. The Transportation building was a long, low structure, lying between Machinery hall and the Pike, and with most of its beauty on the outside. Structural iron work having been prohibited by its cost, the building frame work was of wood and the low spreading roof was one great forest of pine. In the center of the floor space stood the street cars, railway trains and the well known and much cherished B. & 0. display of the evolution of the railway locomotive. Flanking this at one end of the building was the exhibit of the car- riage and allied trades. Then came the exhibits of American automobile manufacturers. Occupying a corresponding but smaller space on the other side were the transportation displays of European countries. Boats and odd lines completed the show. The bicycle exhibits were in the auto- mobile section, being made by two concerns, one of which made automo- biles and motor bicycles, the other being engaged in the manufacture of motor bicycles. teanspoetation, the life of civilization. The importance of transportation in modern life was first properly recognized by the World's Columbian Exposition of 1893, which estab- lished a department devoted to this subject. Since that time the example has been followed by all great expositions. Transportation is the life of modern civilization. It is the circulatory system, without which it could not have come into existence, and the stoppage of which would cause stagnation and decay. Spieit of the Twentieth Ce,ntuey 133 Modern methods of transportation, which have revolutionized the entire world, had their inception after the event, the centennial of which was celebrated by the Louisiana Purchase Exposition. The vast territory purchased by the United States in 1803 is now the heart of the republic. That it has become so rich and powerful, a seat of empire in one coun- try, is due to the railway and steamship and their congeners. In 1803 the means of transportation in the Louisiana Territory were of the crudest kind, principally the flatboat and the pack horse. Today the same terri- tory has 65,000 miles of railway, its rivers are traversed by great fleets, and the telegraph, telephone and trolley wires are weaving a close net- work over its entire surface. The ^'unceasing purpose" of progress has had no better exemplification. WILLAKD A. SMITH, THE DEPARTMENT CHIEF. In charge of this important department was Willard A. Smith, a native of Kenosha, Wis., and a prominent Chicagoan closely identified with railroad publications. Mr. Smith was selected by the railway man- agers of Chicago for the position of Chief of the Department of Trans- portation Exhibits of the World's Columbian Exposition of 1893. This was the first department of the kind that had been established at any expo- sition. The work of planning it and of securing the various exhibits required from all parts of the world required original thought, as there was no early experience to guide in the matter. As is well known, that department was one of the most successful in the exposition, and was the only one which was made a subject of a special volume published by for- eign commissioners. Mr. Smith also held the position of Chief of the Department of Transportation and of Engineering with the American Commission to the Paris Exposition of 1900. In connection with this work he was decorated Chevalier of the Legion of Honor by the President of France in 1901. At the Chicago Exposition and also that of Paris, he was ably assisted by Commander Asher Carter Baker, of the United States Navy, who was also Assistant Chief of the Department at the Louisiana Purchase Exposi- tion. THE SPIEIT OF THE TWENTIETH CENTUEY. The exhibits in the Palace of Transportation showed the most ad- vanced practice of today in railway building, equipment, maintenance, operation and management, and also the history of the railway as devel- oped during; the less than a century of its existence, in all parts of the 134 Spirit of the Twentieth Century world. In order to give ''life" to the exhibits the wheels o? the loco- motives were turned by compressed air. A grand central moving feature was also provided, which was visible from all parts of the building and caught the eyes of the visitor the moment he entered any one of the sixty doors of the vast structure. A steel turntable, elevated some feet above the level of the surface of the surrounding exhibits, carried a mammoth locomotive weighing over 200,000 pounds. The wheels of the locomotive revolved at great speed, while the turntable, revolving slowly by electric power, carried the engine around continuously. Electric headlights on the locomotive and tender threw their searching beams around the entire interior of the building. This moving trophy, emblematic of the great engineering force of civilization, bore the legend, ''The Spirit of the Twentieth Century." Grouped around this central emblem were, on the one hand, a historical presentation by originals and models of the development of the loco- motive, the car and the track, from the earliest dream of invention to the wonderful realization of the present day. On the other side appeared the most advanced design and construction— a twentieth century exhibit. laboeatoey tests of locomotives. Looking forward to more scientific methods than have yet been adopted anywhere, the Transportation Exhibits Department inaugurated a new departure in exposition work, which attracted world-wide interest. It continued to conduct during the entire term of the Exposition a series of laboratory tests of locomotives, in which all of the most interesting of modern European and American engines were tested for comparative efficiency. The time and place were most fortunate, because foreign and domestic locomotives could be available as at no other time, and because the attendance and assistance of the leading mechanical engineers of the world were assured, thus making the tests truly international in charac- ter and an epoch-making event. These tests were made additionally at- tractive by running a locomotive (or turning its wheels while the locomo- tive stood still) at the rate of eighty miles an hour, at a certain time each day. This locomotive laboratory constituted a portion of the great exhibit made by the Pennsylvania Railroad System. OLD trains and OLD CREWS. The Baltimore & Ohio Railroad Company also presented a grand retrospective and contemporaneous exhibit of intense interest and vafit Spieit of the Twentieth Centuey 135 educational value. The old locomotives and cars were peopled by figures of the conductors, engineers and firemen of the early days, affording a most picturesque effect. A very large model of the new passenger station at Washington, D. C, was one of the features of this magnificent exhibit, which brought into juxtaposition the embryotic ideas of a century ago and the most advanced practice of today. complete electeic railway system. The electric railway was represented in this department by cars, tracks, etc.; while the electric motors and appliances were exhibited in the Department of Electricity. Along the northern line of the Transpor- tation Exhibits building, traction systems were shown in operation on a double track, one-quarter of a mile in length. passenger cars and locomotives of all nations. Two Trains of the finest passenger cars ever built by the Pullman Company were shown and these were rivaled by those of other great build- ers. There were over forty modern locomotives of American, Canadian, French and German construction, including two of the largest locomotives ever built. Every variety of freight construction and work cars was rep- resented; great prominence being given to the most advanced steel con- struction. Track and structures, together with all the appurtenances and appliances relating thereto, enabled the tyro or the foreigner to study and understand fully American ideas and methods. The State Railways of Germany used a large out-of-doors space for a track exhibit, showing sys- tems of terminals, switches, signals, etc. development op naval architecture. Some of the most interesting features of the Department of Trans- portation Exhibits were found in the Marine section. The models of the famous Bureau Veritas of the Louvre Museum, in Paris, which illustrate the development of naval architecture for the past three centuries, were shown for the first time at any exposition. Also the magnificent boats which form a part of the Armeria, the well-known museum at Madrid. The British Government made a display of a complete collection of models of steamships, men-of-war, etc. There was also a complete set of models illustrating the inland transportation of India. ATLANTIC PASSENGER TRAFFIC ILLUSTRATED. The International Mercantile Marine Company occupied a large space, 136 Spirit of the Twentieth Century and made a complete exhibit of models of boats of tlieir line as well as other features illustrating the passenger traffic of the Atlantic. strategy or American warfare. One of the most interesting features was Dr. Bircher's War Museum, from Aarau, Switzerland, which illustrated by relief maps the strategy of all American wars, both on land and sea. In the American section of the Marine division were full-rigged yachts, boats of all descriptions, and a complete historical exhibit of the water transportation of the Mississippi river ; also, a model of the port of New Orleans. In the German section was shown a model of the port of Hamburg, with the vessels of the North German Lloyd in dock, and an exhibit by the German government of vessels and models, showing the development of naval architecture. Among this collection was displayed a number of models of old battleshijos of the line, and the earlier vessels used by the Hanseatic League. The modern methods of transportation in Japan were exhibited in connection with models of her navy yards, docks, men-of-war and mer- chant vessels. airship contests. Kecognizing the progress made toward solving the problem of aerial navigation, and the possibility, if not the probability, of remarkable achievements in the air, the exposition offered a grand prize of $100,000 to the airship which should make the best record over a prescribed course, marked by captive balloons, at a speed of not less than twenty miles an hour. Quite a large number of aeronauts announced their intention of competing. There were other prizes for balloon races and contests of various kinds aggregating $50,000. The interest in aeronautics received tremendous impulse from the announcements of this concourse. It was evident that the result would be a great advancement in aerostation, and that this country would hence- forth take a leading place in this line of investigation and experiment. The prizes were offered for achievement only; leaving the widest range of methods open to the competition. The amusement attraction feature was entirely ignored, and serious work only encouraged. The rules and regu- lations formulated by a conference of experts and originally announced withstood world-wide criticism, and received such universal approval that no change was requested. xn 73 (5 !B CP O ^ i5' D g^ CO S'^ ^ o p - • S" S Z' I ere. & g-. 3 § B S o 2, 0>73 J 2 = o' "^ c3 5? ^•1 o 1— I bx} -^ i-Jh --; CO I "^ i-L -^^ 2 ©•^•^ *^ S o O =1::! Qj Ph "£ &E I? O) S W 2- •-1 _ M '^ a; w "^^ W mS ^'^^ b '^ -^j <1 § si Fh fcic s sfi THE PALACE, OF MANUFACTURERS Building Perfectly Ventilated and Lighted — Compared With the Chicago Leviathan — Chief of the Manufactures Exhibit — Vast Labors of the Department — High Standard of Artistic Installation Required — For the Man With Corns — Manufactures or Fine Arts? — Classification of the Manufactures — Hardware, Heating and Ventilating Apparatus — Great Costume Displ3-y — Sculpture of the Manufactures Exhibit. THE Manufactures building of the Louisiana Purchase Exposition was of Corinthian design and covered an area of fourteen acres. It was one of the main buildings, situated at the entrance to the central boulevard of the exposition and one of the most conspicuous objects seen on entering the main gate. The structure had a frontage to the north of 1,200 feet, with a depth of 525 feet on the main boulevard. The architects provided imposing entrances at the centers of the main facades and or7,ginally planned a tower 400 feet high at the angle of the main elevation facing north. This prominent feature was to be an appro- priate balance to a tower of corresponding height on the Varied Industries building immediately west. These two towers were later eliminated. Corner entrances were also provided for this building. Such entrances are difficult to so design as to be in perfect harmony with the architecture of the building in general. Without skillful treatment they would not be acceptable from an artistic standpoint, but these minor entrances in the Manufactures building pleased both the layman and the expert. Graceful groups of sculpture both ornamented and accentuated the four main entrances on the sides. BUILDING PEKFECTLY VENTILATED AND LIGHTED. A most skillful arrangement of the sky lines of this building were effected. The roof was so designed as to give perfect light and ventilation and at the same time to avoid the extensive and troublesome skylights frequently used on structures of this size and kind. Each facade of the building presented an open colonnade, which was very acceptable in a climate like that of St. Louis. This afforded a passageway for visitors 145 146 The Palace of Manufactuees and at the same time offered a shadow relief that enhanced the beauty of the design. The interior of the building was laid out with courts of sim- ple and pleasing proportions, with sufficient decoration to relieve the uni- formity of the enclosing walls. A scheme of mural decoration was effectively carried out on the outside walls back of the colonnades. The cost of the building was $850,000. COMPAKED WITH THE CHICAGO LEVIATHAN. For purposes of comparison the dimensions of the Manufactures building at the World's Columbian Exposition are given. The latter Leviathan, the largest house ever built by the hands of man and therefore one of the wonders of the world, measured within a few feet of 1,700 'feet in length and 800 feet wide. It cost just $1,700,000. The first sug- gestion that the Manufactures building at the Chicago exposition dis- counted the building under description is offset when it is explained that about half the manufactured exhibits were located in the Palace of Varied Industries, a heroic structure of similar architecture and pro- portions. Both came under the same head and when considered together afforded the most extensive space ever given by an exposition to exhibits of this character. High winds were responsible for the abandonment of the lofty twin towers designed to emphasize the relationship of the structures. CHIEF OF THE MANUFACTUEES EXHIBIT. Milan H. Hulbert was chief of this important department. He is a man of extensive and varied experience in exposition affairs, a native of New York City, where he was born thirty-five years ago. After gradu- ating from the Brooklyn Polytechnic and Collegiate Institute, at the age of seventeen, he entered into business with his father, in the manufacture of firearms and ammunition. As a member of this firm he organized and conducted for the house comprehensive exhibits at the Chicago, Omaha and other expositions, which service having given him a full knowledge of the conditions, advantages and hindrances involved, from the stand- point of an exhibitor as well as of the exposition, well qualified him for the position of an exposition official. Continuing in commerce, he became an officer of his father 's firm as well as a director in and adviser of other firearms and sporting goods companies. In 1899 he was appointed director of the Department of Varied In- dustries for the United States Commission to the Paris exposition of iThe Palace of Manufactuees 147 1900, and in that position he collected and had charge of the installation and presentation of that magnificent display in the foreign section of the Esplanade des Invalides, which arrested and held the attention and com- pelled the admiration of every visitor to that exposition, and which opened the eyes of Europe to the excellence and advancement of industrial art in the United States. Although the space granted to the United States in that section was much less than allotted to Germany, England, Austria or Japan, the skill and taste manifested in utilizing the comparatively small area, and the excellent and systematic arrangement and grouping of ex- hibits, brought the American display into the greatest prominence and caused that section of the Invalides to be considered by everyone the most attractive and inviting spot in any of the foreign sections. In addition to his duties as Director of Varied Industries, Mr. Hulbert acted for the French government as a member of the Jury of Awards, and for these services, both to his government and that of France, he was decorated with the order of the Legion of Honor, grade of Chevalier. Mr. Hulbert was selected as Chief of the Department of Manufactures of the Universal Exposition of 1904 on January 15, 1902, and at once entered upon the discharge of his duties. VAST LABOES OF THE DEPARTMEJSTT OP MANUFACTURES. Applications for space from the manufacturers of the United States, and the respective foreign nations of the world for eight times the space available in the two palaces of the Department of Manufactures, were filed long before the opening of the fair. Fifty-five per cent of the area in each of these palaces was reserved for domestic exhibits, and this domestic space was applied for four times over. This is not surprising, in view of the fact that the latest census discloses the existence of 512,726 manufacturing and mechanical establishments in the United States, the total annual output of which is valued at over $13,040,000,000. The capi- tal employed by this myriad of working concerns is over $9,000,000,000. To answer the questions of those interested members of the five thousand manufacturing concerns, to ascertain their desires, to sift the really im- portant firms from the unimportant, and to keep in touch with those who were preparing their exhibits— to aid and instruct them in ways too numerous to mention, was the work of the Department of Manufactures for months and months preceding the opening, and the index of the cor- respondence files of the department shows 80,000 names. 148 . The Palace of Manufactuees Among these many applications were requests for space from every line of industry, and the applicants were asked to submit sketches, de- scriptions, etc., of their proposed installations, in order that the value of each might be determined educationally, commercially and artistically, the allotments of space being made only to firms that furnished assurance of the best displays from one or another of these standards. HIGH standard OF AETISTIC INSTALLATION REQUIRED. The question of artistic installation is one to which the manufacturers of all countries are devoting unusual attention. At the Chicago exposi- tion it was generally considered sufficient if the goods themselves were in- stalled in a manner answering commercial necessities. Now, however, the public require a higher and more artistic standard, owing to the education they have received, a great part of which has been derived through the attention generally given to the displays in show windows. In the past few years this dressing of show windows has become a profession, and it is not now uncommon for the large department stores to employ a high salaried man and a staff of assistants, whose whole attention is given to, the conception of original and attractive installations for the difterent varieties of merchandise. If you can imagine a big department store taken from a typical city of each of the world's principal countries, and all combined under one roof, you have a partial idea of what the throngs saw who passed through the Palace of Manufactures. Dress goods from the world 's shops, materials for men 's clothing, as well as shoes in all stages of making, from the leather "sides" to the showcase, occupied so much space that the vastness of the industry re- quired to keep man clothed began to dawn on the mind as soon as the building was entered. Eich silks and satins so costly as to be seldom imported save in finished gowns tempted feminine eyes, as well as dainty fineries from a hundred workshops devised to aid lovers of the art of dressing well. FOE THE MAN WITH CORNS. How shoes are made may offer some satisfaction to the man who has corns, for he can watch the tortures to which the leather is subjected in almost automatic machinery before the pair of patent leathers is ready for his feet. Tpib Palace op Manufactures 149 Richly-tanned leathers, plain, stamped, embossed and carved in intri- cate patterns tell what has been done since the hides of wild beasts were tanned with oak bark in stagnant pools and softened by oils from the fat of their first owners. manufactures or fine arts? The first impressions received by persons who entered the Palace of Manufactures by the west central entrance was that they have inadvert- ently strayed into the Palace of Fine Arts. To the left of the entrailce was a forest of 5,000 pieces of the finest marble and alabaster statuary and bronzes from Italy. "How comes it that these are in the Manufactures building?" is the question which many asked. The most common supposition, that there was not room in the Fine Arts building, was incorrect. The right answer was that the beautiful objects were in the right place because they were "manufactures," ac- cording to the rules under which exposition exhibits are classified. The figures were works of art, but the artists who created them were in the employ of sculpture firms and the figures are exhibited by the firms, and they were therefore "manufactures." But for all that, it is doubtful if any section of the Fine Arts Palace attracted greater attention than the exhibit of Italian "manufactures." Most of it was snowy white and the collection of marbles was so com- plete that days might be spent in studying the artistic perfection of the exliibit. A few of the figures were of heroic size, but the greater part of them were notable rather for their daintiness. Nearly all of the pieces were from Florence; a few from Rome. A feature of romantic interest in the exhibit was a collection of 400 bronzes, exact copies of originals taken from the ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum. They were all in copper, with silver encrustations. In many other general features the palaces of the Department of Man- ufactures differed from previous similar structures, notable among which was the aisle arrangement. All the aisles were of equal width. There was no main aisle, and each avenue was of equal value to the sightseer. The enormous size of the palaces, and the thousands of people passing through each required a systematic arrangement of the aisles in order that exhibits might be easily located. To this end the aisles were laid out on the same 150 The Palace of Manufactures principle as the streets of cities, each having its name, and each exhibit having its number, the same method being applied as that used for city blocks. CLASSIFICATION OF THE MANUFACTURES. Broadly speaking, the classification of nine hundred industries in this department, which were covered by two hundred and thirty classes and thirty-two groups of the official classification, included all the goods one would ordinarily find in the following retail stores: Stationery store, artists ' supplies shop, hardware store, furniture store, dry goods store, de- partment store, jewelry store, toy store, china and glass store, men's fur- nishing store, tailor shop, millinery store, rubber store and many others. To house this large variety of merchandise two of the largest palaces— Manufactures and Varied Industries— covering a total area of twenty- eight acres, were assigned. The exhibits were installed in these palaces in three great classes. In the Palace of Varied Industries was found the merchandise commonly classified as Industrial Art, that which is made to please the eye. In the Palace of Manufactures were presented the other two great subdivisions, consisting wholly of goods utilitarian in nature, in contradistinction to those in Varied Industries. HARDWARE, HEATING AND VENTILATING APPARATUS. As before stated, the Palace of Manufactures contained the exhibits of goods of a purely utilitarian nature. These were divided into two divisions, one including hardware, heating and ventilating apparatus, glass, lighting apparatus (other than electrical), undertakers' goods, and a large variety of merchandise in woods and metals, installed in the west half of the building, and the other consisting of the exhibits of textiles, clothing, etc., occupying the eastern half. The hardware exhibit included everything that could possibly be classed under that heading, and probably the most effective installations in this section were the displays of cutlery. These were interesting and valuable, and showed the processes of manufacture from the rough metal up to the grinding and polishing. The most extensive variety of table cutlery was shown, as well as pocket cutlery, scissors, razors and knives. Following the hardware section was that which presented heating and ventilating apparatus, including extensive exhibits of radiators, low pres- sure boilers, stoves, furnaces, etc., as well as every variety of ventilating appliances and systems. Adjoining this was shown all the methods of iThe Palace of Manufactuees 151 lighting other than electrical, and these proved very attractive on account of the beautiful spectacular effects which were presented. GREAT COSTUME DISPLAY. Turning from the utilitarian division to the eastern half of the build- ing the visitor encountered the most complete exhibit of costumes which had ever been attempted at any exposition, one of its most interesting and popular features being the show room, where the gowns were exhibited on live models, in addition to the regular installation on wax figures in the cases. Adjoining this there was an effective display of individual work, such as embroidery, lace-making and needle work of all kinds. FOEEIGN DISPLAY COMPARED WITH PARIS EXPOSITION. The Department of Manufactures was especially notable for its repre- sentative foreign exhibits. In this respect it far surpassed the great exhibit in the Palace of Industries at the Paris exposition in 1900, which latter has been acknowledged superior to anything that had previously been accomplished at international expositions. The Paris Palace of Industries was 1,200 feet long and 160 feet wide, less than half the size of either of the palaces devoted to similar exhibits at St. Louis. Its contents were so well installed and displayed, and of such attractive interest that this section proved the most popular of the entire exposition. The exhibits of France, United States, England, Germany, Italy, Austria and Japan stood out prominently; each had an excellent exhibit of its special products of manufactures at St. Louis. And in addition there were pleasing exhibits from Holland, Denmark, India, Persia, Norway, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and many others. Ger- many, whose exhibit at Paris was by far the best display of Industrial Arts that nation had ever made, had in the Palace of Varied Industries at St. Louis, a much more extensive and elaborate exhibit. France had installed in the Palace of Manufactures the most impor- tant and representative display that that country ever made in a foreign land. The exhibits of Italy and Austria approached those of Germany and France, while the displays of Japan and also of China were distin- guishing features of unusual interest. SCULPTURE OP THE MANUFACTURES BUILDING. It would be unfair to pass by the sculpture that adorned this great building without commenting thereon. For the court of the Palace of 152 The Palace of Manufactuees Manufactures, Philip Martini did two marine fountains, one a '' Nep- tune," with trident and chariot drawn by sea horses, the other a^' Venus," with spear and attendant horses and chariot. ''Victory" over the main entrance attracted attention, in view of the fact that the sculptor, Michael Tonetti, employed an electric fan to produce the effect of the wind-blown garments on the partly draped figure. The heroic horse groups on this structure were executed by L. 0. Lawrie. Isadore Konti supplied alle- gorical figures illustrating the ' ' Progress of Manufactures. ' ' Tonetti did the portrait statue of ' ' Charles Goodyear. ' ' Max Mauch contributed the l^ortrait statue of "John Gobelin." G. T. Brewster modeled two span- drels, and L. L. Ameteis contributed two figures for the roof line, all magnificent examples of art. The statues of Goodyear and Gobelin well illustrated the scope of the exhibits within. There was Goodyear, a modern inventor and manufacturer of goods to stand the hard rubs of the world, representa- tive of the practical spirit of the day which is looking about to supply those things which the mass of the people must use. On the other hand, there is a limited craving for the things that are artistic and a more limited ability to satisfy that craving. Such works of art as Gobelin tapestries can be enjoyed by few, and the very fact that a statue of their original creator should adorn this palace shows how faint is the dividing line between Manufactures and Art. CHAPTER. XI. PALACE, OF VARIED INDUSTRIES Grand Entrance and Interior Court — Commercial and Household Furnishings — The Domestic Exhibits— Industrial Art for Children — Great Floral Clock, Electrically Illuminated — The Decorative Sculpture. LTHOUGH separated from tlie Palace of Manufactures by the Plaza of St. Louis, the huge building devoted to Varied Indus- tries in reality formed a part of it and was merely a division of the same department. In passing from one to the other the visitor was greeted with his first view of the main vista of the Lagoons, Gardens, Cascades, Terrace of States and Festival Hall. It was designed in symmetry with the Palace of Manufactures, together with which it provided space for the exhibits of this department. It was the first building let to contractors. GEAND ENTRANCE AND INTEEIOR COURT. Because of the importance of its location, the general plan of this Palace provided for an elaborate treatment of the four facades to meet the requirements of its position on the main picture. The facade on the main avenue at the south was its most striking feature, being provided with an elaborate entrance thrown back behind a circular portico of columns of increased size. An ornate dome capped the portico. A' magnificent corridor passed through the building from its entrance, leading at the center into a fine interior court, with exhibits housed in kiosks and iron pavilions. There were numerous supplemental entrances provided at the center of the facades, and at the corners a colonnade on the east and west fronts enhanced the beauty of the structure. The style of the building was Eenaissance, with a fine and liberal use of the Ionic column. In proportions it was an exact duplicate of the Manufactures building. COMMERCIAL AND HOUSEHOLD FURNISHINGS. Among the industrial art displays in the Palace of Varied Industries were most interesting and comprehensive exhibits of furniture and in- terior decoration, the former including, not only the ordinary exhibits 153 154 Palace of Varied Industries of furniture, but what is known as ' ' Commercial Furniture, ' ' shown by the latest filing cases, time-saving business devices and up-to-date office fixtures and furnishings. Under interior decoration was shown a grouping of the industries which tend to make ' ' The House Beautiful, ' ' consisting of displays of all articles, features and details of interior decoration, such as upholstery, tapestries, stained and painted glass, etc. THE domestic EXHIBITS. A concrete idea of just what was contained may be gathered from a review of the classifications governing the Domestic exhibits. These are shown under the following heads. Interior Decoration (DeLuxe). General Interior Decoration and Furniture (tables, beds, chairs, etc.). Special Furniture (store fixtures, bar fixtures, billiard tables, etc.). Leaded Glass. Silver and Gold Ware. Jewelry. Fancy Articles. Clocks, Watches, etc. Art Bronzes. Art Pottery. Art Glass, etc. The collection of ceramics, pure porcelains, unique pottery, etc., was very attractive. Japan and China offered specimens in this exhibit, which were the finest ever sent abroad for that purpose. England, France, Hol- land and Germany, as well as the United States, were represented in this display by the finest products of their artists and kilns. Japan had $625,000 appropriated by its government for a magnificent representation and provided an unsurpassed display of those products of industrial arts for which that country has such a high reputation; bronzes, porcelain, pottery, carved wood and ivory, lacquer work, em- broideries, silks, etc. industrial, art for children. Included under Industrial Art for children were the exhibits of toys. Germany and France, vieing with the United States, have arrived at a remarkable perfection in the production of all varieties of toys. The Palace of Vaeied Industries 155 manufacturers of today are paying special attention to the artistic forms of their creations, and each of the above-mentioned countries showed its most improved specimens. In the artistic designing of booths the exhibitors in this Palace excelled those in the other palaces and the big building offered the appearance of a complete exposition in itself. GEEAT ELOEAL CLOCK, ELECTRICALLY ILLUMINATED. In addition to an extensive display of clocks in the exhibit palace proper, one of the most novel features of the exposition was the floral clock built on Agricultural Hill, for which this department furnished the mechanism. This consisted of a dial 100 feet in diameter, the numerals on which were approximately 15 feet high, and made entirely of flowers. At the top of the dial there was a small house built to contain the mech- anism, and near by a 5,000 pound bell, whose tones could be heard throughout the grounds, and a mammoth hour glass exposed to view. This bell struck the hour and half hour, and upon the first stroke of each hour, the immense hour glass turned and the sand run back. At the same time the doors of the house swung open, exposing the mechanism which controlled the striking and operated the dial, closing immediately upon the last stroke of the bell. At night the clock was brilliantly illumi- nated. Some 1,000 electric lamps were required for this purpose. THE DECORATIVE SCULPTURE. Returning to the building proper, not the least of its exterior charm was contributed by sculpture. "Industry of Man" and "Industry of Woman, ' ' striking examples on the east front, were the work of Antonin C. Skodik. Nine repeated figures of a " Torchbearer, " by Bruno L. Zimm, stood on the entablature of the swinging colonnade. Spandrels on the corner pavilions and spandrels for the west entrance were done respectively by William W. Manatt and Peter Koasak. A tympanum behind the swinging colonnade was the work of Douglas Tilden, Cali- fornia's mute sculptor. Another tympanum, by Clement J. Barnthorn, decorated the east entrance. The four groups for the east and west fronts were contributed by John Flanagan, the decorative sculpture as a whole suggesting the personal nature of the exhibit. THE DOMINANT FEATUEE OF THE EXHIBIT. In admiring the thousands of articles so eloquent of beauty and art displayed in the Palace of Varied Industries the visitor was most forcibly 156 Palace of Vaeied Industeies impressed with the atmosphere of individuality which surronnded them. Pottery, glassware, bronze figures, fancy articles of wearing apparel, beautiful watches, superb jewelry, everything which might be accessory to the lives of the wealthy or the refined, were there. Elegant and massive fixtures and appliances for the office, the store and the factory, were also displayed. The department was an epitome of the Home Beautiful and the most modern conveniences and luxuries of the business world. The articles themselves, also, although largely the product of machinery, were such as represented the intelligence, skill and artistic taste of the individual, as, for instance, the wonders in bronzes and pot- tery^ jewelry, interior decorations and household furnishings. Japan carried away a lion's share of the honors in this special field. The large part played by the child in the American life was also evidenced by the many artistic displays devoted to its sole amusement. The department of Varied Industries was, in a word, an exposition of delicate, artistic domestic manufactures, and will long be remembered as one of the charms of the exposition; for while the industries there were as varied almost as individual tastes, they presented the aspect of a beautiful piece of woven goods, or a selection from one of the musical masters, with a dominant idea or theme running through the entire work. CHAPTER XII. MINING AND METALLURGICAL PALACE Why Obelisks Before this Palace? — Development of Brick-Making — ^Joseph A. Holmes, Chief of the Department — Typical of Louisiana Purchase Development — ^Archway of Pennsylvania Coal — Exhibit of Bethlehem Steel Company's Rolling Mills — Indiana and West Virginia Coal Exhibits — Gigantic Cast-Iron Statue of Vulcan — Greatest Exhibit Space of All Expositions — Workings of an Anthracite Mine — Profitable Handling of Low-Grade Ores — New Mexican Turquoise Mines — ^Mining Gulch and the Cement Build- ing — Gold Mill in Operation. GOING a-mining was one of the enticing possibilities of the Louisi- ana Purchase Exposition. The advantages of mining after this fashion are legion. Coal, oil, copper, silver, gold, or even radium can be discovered, all within a comparatively limited space. The prospector strikes "pay-dirt"— in the sense of something of interest— before travel- ing far. The extreme limit of his operations at the world's fair were confined to the Mines and Metallurgy building and to the "Mining Gulch." WHY OBELISKS BEFORE THIS PALACE? The Palace of Mines and Metallurgy was one of the most remarkable structures at the fair. It was designed in L'art.Nouveau, or Secession, as architects term the style. Close by was "Mining Gulch." A sugges- tion of orientalism clung to the building, due largely to the presence of huge obelisks at the entrance. "What are those obelisks doing in front of the Palace of Mines and Metallurgy r' was asked by scores of visitors when they saw the build- ing for the first time. Inside, the exhibit showing the development o? the brick-making industry from the time it was employed by Egypt to the present day, gave the answer. EVELOPMEl^T OF BEICK-MAKIl^G. The various clays, varying in quality from the common earth used in making chimney brick to the delicate porcelain, the machinery used in transforming them into useful and ornamental objects and the finished 157. 158 Mining and Metaul^uegical Palace products themselves were enough to give anyone a wholesome respect for dirt, provided it is dirt that can be baked. Covered promenades surrounded the grand building with its deep- set walls, sculptured panels illustrating mining processes, splendid stat- uary ornamentation and Egyptian, Byzantine and Greek characteristics. JOSEPH A. HOLMES, CHIEF OF THE DEPARTMENT. Over this important division of the fair Joseph A. Holmes presided as Chief of the Department of Mines and Metallurgy. He is a native of South Carolina, a graduate of Cornell University, and a man of broad professional culture and practical experience. For ten years he was professor of Geology and Mineralogy in the University of North Caro- lina, and State Geologist of North Carolina. Since the year 1891, he has been ofiScially connected with State and Government surveys and an active promoter of national interests. In the course of this work for the Gov- ernment he has visited and carefully examined the mineral and ore de- posits in practically all the states and territories of the Union. With these general attainments Mr. Holmes entered upon his special duties at St. Louis, being equipped by a previous experience in the in- stallation of mining exhibits at the Atlanta, New Orleans and Chicago expositions, and having served as a juror at the Omaha, Buffalo, Atlanta, Nashville and Charleston expositions. He is a member of the American Institute of Mining Engineers, the American Geological Society, the American Association for the Advancement of Science, the Washington Academy of Science, and other scientific societies. In addition to his practical services, he has been a frequent contributor to scientific and mining journals, treating, both technically and in a popular form, many subjects allied to those which engaged the attention of visitors to the Mining Department of the Louisiana Purchase Exposition. TYPICAL OF LOUISIANA PURCHASE DEVELOPMENT. In a segregation of departments illustrating the progress and at- tainments of the last century in the United States, it would be in bad taste to designate one field of labor as more worthy of consideration than another. It may safely be affirmed, however, that so far as the modern- izing and general development of the Louisiana Purchase area is con- cerned, no advance has been more marked than that in the department of mining and its collateral branches. Hence, the Palace of Mines and Mining and Metalluegical Palace 159 Metallurgy may be safely regarded as especially typical of the develop- ment of the Louisiana Purchase states, agriculture naturally coming in a good second, with not a few advocates claiming for it the first place. In any brief notice of the Department of Mines and Metallurgy, one must necessarily admit his observations to features not only distinctive, but necessarily novel and attractive. Although in the Department of Mining alone the western states deserve and have received conspicuous recognition, yet as largely identified with this industry, as well as of the industry of metallurgy, which represents the consummation of labor in this department, the eastern states must necessarily be fully and freely represented. AUCHWAY or PENNSYLVANIA COAL. In the Palace of Mines and Metallurgy, recognizing the fact that coal was king, especial space and emphasis were given to the coal mines and coal-bearing areas. With this in view, such states as Pennsylvania, Wyoming, Indiana and others necessarily claimed special recognition, and this recognition was given in a most attractive way. For instance, the state of Pennsylvania erected over the main entrance of her exhibit an archway composed entirely of coal over 20 feet in height, and of a design that in spite of the refractory character of the material was rec- ognized as artistic to a degree. Pennsylvania, in addition to furnishing the arch, supplemented the leading entrance by two side openings, emphasized by cement and stone columns and balustrades of graceful design and varied materials. This state also gave additional force to its leading industry by presenting a relief map of the mining regions in and about the great central mining and manufacturing district of Pittsburg. EXHIBIT OP BETHLEHEM STEEL COMPANY'S KOLLING MILLS. From this same commonwealth also came an exhibit made by the Bethlehem Steel Company, in which was found the products of the great rolling mills, arms manufactory, armor plate, etc., that have given to that establishment world-wide fame. Here was installed a 12-inch battleship turret, with guns mounted and in place and surrounded by finished pieces of field artillery and other manufactured products illus- trating the advance of the metallurgical processes from the ore, limestone, ganister and other crude materials, through the pig-iron furnace and 160 Mining and Metaixuegical P.'Llace Bessemer converters into the rude ingot, the rolled plate and finally the finished product. INDIANA AND WEST VIRGINIA COAL EXHIBITS. The same may be said of the exhibit from Indiana. On a space' of 26x26 feet in area there was erected a circular tower of medieval design, 33 feet in height and pierced by windows, which in turn were occupied by numerous photographic transparencies illustrating the districts and mines identified with this particular region. This medieval tower was surrounded by high walls of like materials, and the whole constituted a very attractive, artistic and scenic exhibit, at the same time illustrating the purposes it was designed to emphasize. West Virginia was represented in many ways. Among these were a working model, 30x30 feet, of a West Virginia coal mine; a complete exploitation by models and maps of the coal mining industry ; a statis- tical column 18 feet in height, showing the total coal production of the United States from the origin of the industry to the present date. In furtherance of this same purpose, a coal column 100 feet high was erected and on this was illustrated the thickness and character of a whole series of West Virginia coal veins. GIGANTIC CAST-IKON STATUE OF VULCAN. Allied to coal, and second only to it in value as a mineral product, iron, both in the ore and in its several forms, necessarily must command attention. Here, in addition to the monumental ca3t-iron statue of Vulcan over 50 feet in height, was exhibited iron and steel in commercial forms and of an exceptional character. A flanged iron and dished boiler plate over 11 feet in outside diameter; a second flanged boiler plate 11 feet 6 inches in diameter; a rolled sheet 50 feet long, and other achieve- ments of the metallurgical process were shown to their best advantage and emphasized in a degree that surprised those previously uninformed. Not only did eastern states contribute to these two special exhibits, but Colorado was in the field, illustrating in its variety of coals and in the full range of its metallurgical processes the progress which coal mining and metallurgy have made in the center of the Louisiana Pur- chase area. GREATEST EXHIBIT SPACE OF ALL EXPOSITIONS. Eecognizing that mines and agriculture are the fundamental sources of supply for the world's needs, and that until the date of the Louisiana S S ^^ C tl Oi 03 -w o |» — ^ O cfi =<-i (n O) +-I l>>^ fl P c4 fl -M S 03 ^ y i-^ .t ■ ^ •>< ^^ ^ ■s ^ S OJ ^ 03 ^ iX) i:^ 0-=H -:^ !K .S o 0) Sh ^ Tn bXl^ t« s :; -t^ ^ > — ' o 3 o .p fl -(J '"' .S!i n3 S o 5i>>^ j3 Oj 05 S 03 fl 03 <1^ 03 _ 03 f= .„ fi'P C ^>^ C 03 V 1-2 > Mining and Metalluegical. Palace 169 Purchase, mining was but little known in the United States, the directors of the Louisiana Purchase Exposition Company were most liberal in their appropriations for the Department of Mines and Metallurgy. The building prepared for exhibits of this character far surpassed anything of the kind ever before provided for a like purpose. It covered an area of nine acres (525x750 feet), and cost approximately $500,000. As in other buildings of this exposition— a fact which should be strongly em- phasized—all of the space was floor space. Notwithstanding this fact the exhibit space was greatly in excess of the space, both gallery and floor, heretofore provided at any exposition. PKOCESSES AND PEODUCTS BOTH SHOWN. The great aim of the exposition authorities was to show in the great palaces for exhibits at St. Louis not alone products and results, but the processes and stages through which the products pass in order that they may become a benefit to mankind. The exhibits in the Palace for Mines and Metallurgy were divided into five great groups, and these in turn into fifty-three classes, which covered all the stages of mining from the pre- liminary prospecting and surveys down to the manufacture of mine prod- ucts into the articles of public and general utility. Wherever it was pos- sible so to do, these processes were shown in actual operation. WOEKINGS OP AN ANTHEACITE MINE ILLUSTEATED. There was an anthracite mine, for instance, in Pennsylvania's space. Out of the base of a miniature hill, from a black little hole which was the miniature shaft mouth, ran a pair of small tracks. Along these, oper- ated by gravity, went the rattling cars. They dived into the black hole, and presently came bobbing out again, scurrying around curves to the base of an incline, up which they were lifted and then dumped into the first separator or breaker. The breaking was accomplished by what were termed the ''main rollers." From the rollers the coal was passed through a series of screens, which allowed the lumps of the desired sizes to drop through. These screens were of several kinds, each being preferred and in use in different districts. Each was illustrated in the one working model. After screening, the great problem is the elimination of the slate. One device to attain this end involves a double circular chute, down which the coal falls, and the lighter substance flies out from the inner 170 Mining and Metalluegical Palace chute and goes down the outer one. Another plan allows the coal and slate to slide down an incline, the bottom of which is a slab of slate. The friction of slate upon slate is greater than of coal upon slate ; accordingly, the downward move of the slate is slower, and the separation is thus ac- complished. Still a third arrangement provides an incline upon a lesser angle, by means of which the slate is picked from the coal as both move slowly down. All of these processes were graphically illustrated. The slate eliminated, the coal is subjected to a tinal screening, for which it is again lifted by ascending buckets. Then, in its final and marketable state, it is loaded direct into cars by means of chutes. A plant such as the one shown by Pennsylvania is capable of mining, sep- arating, screening and loading 500 tons of coal a day. PROFITABLE HANDLING OF LOW-GRADE ORES. The profitable handling of low-grade ores is the great problem which has been met and solved in large part by the scientific miners of the West. Illustration of the progress made appeared in several of the ex- hibits made by the Western states. Utah, particularly, demonstrated one phase of the exercise of man 's ingenuity in this direction. Prom an ore bin at the top of the intricate machine, the rock slid down by means of an automatic feeder into a Grates gyrating crusher. Passing through this the ore appeared in the shape of comparatively small peb- bles. Elevated again, it passed over screens, which again greatly de- creased the size of the bits which were to go through the further steps of the process. From the screens the practically powdered ore was put through three classifiers. These were simply three large funnels, from the bottom of which, through a pipe smaller and within the pipe of the funnel itself, a stream of water played upward. The heavier of the powdered substance naturally sinks, though the upward pouring of the water causes the lighter of the material to pass over into the next classifier, and so on to the third. The heavier particles, of course, contain the metal which it is desired to isolate as nearly as is possible with this method. The lighter material is the worthless part of the rock— "gangue" it is called. From the classi- fiers here shown the already partially concentrated copper passed in pipes to what were termed the "benches." These, as the name indicates, are simply benches or tables, designed upon a slight incline. Parallel 'Mining and Metallurgical Palace 171 along them are lines of ridges or corruscations. A shallow flow of water passed over these tables, in direction perpendicular to the corruscations. The half-concentrated copper, coming from the classifiers, was car- ried by the water across the table. The light particles were washed over the ridges ; the heavier ones, sinking, were retained in the grooves. This is the final step. The metal then usually is reduced to a copper sulphate, though it may be some other of the simple chemical combina- tions. The elements of value in the ore have been extracted. The task to be accomplished by the smelter has been greatly simplified and the freight has become a minor factor in the total cost of production. NEW MEXICAN TUEQUOISE MINES. A turquoise mine, in operation precisely as the work was done three centuries ago, was an interesting feature contributed by New Mexico. Native Mexicans in picturesque leather clothes and broad sombreros were seen breaking the turquoise-bearing rock from the cliffs and, in sacks hung by straps across their foreheads, carrying it up ladders made of notched poles to the Mexican lapidary in a cabin above, where the pol- ishing and grinding which turn out polished jewels were in operation. Side by side with this ancient mine was another, where modern ma- chinery and modern methods were employed to remove the turquoise and prepare it for market. In this way the progress that has been made in turquoise mining in New Mexico was shown. Near the modern mine, in a great glass case, the finest rock ever taken from a turquoise mine was shown, with the rich veins of turquoise run- ning through it. The lapidary, at work in his little miner 's cabin on the hillside above the mine, explained how the turquoise of commerce is pre- pared. Unlike other gems, turquoise is never sold in the rough state, as there is little in the appearance of the rock before it is cut and polished to indicate its final value. Some fine-appearing rocks disclose flaws that make what would be sold for $6 a carat so valueless that the time spent in getting out the rock and cutting it is deemed a total loss. Others that seem off-color in the rough, when polished are of exactly the proper shade to command the highest prices. Turquoise must not be too deeply blue, nor of a faded color. The most valuable stone is that which is neither dark nor light, but which has that peculiar blue that can only be described as turquoise. In constitu- tion the mineral is a compound of alumina, carrying a very slight fraction 172 Mining and Metallurgical Palace of one per cent of copper. It is the copper that gives it the blue color and on which its value depends. FOEEIGN EXHIBITS OF MINING AND QUAEEYING. Carrying out the purpose of an international exposition, the spaces granted to foreign countries were most liberal, and the exhibits exceeded any previously made by these countries in the Mining Department. Emphasis may be given to the exhibits of France, Germany, Great Brit- ain, Mexico, Brazil, Italy, Canada and Japan. Each of these nations presented the mineral resources and metallurgical product of their coun- tries to the best advantage. Other countries, such as Sweden, Belgium, Argentina, Chile and Peru, illustrated their mining and quarrying in- dustries fully. Each nation showed its way, and its way with nearly every metal dif- fers from ours. Our ways, also, are very many. They vary in localities to meet special conditions ; they vary with the purposes to which the out- put is to be devoted, and they differ with the several methods that in many instances have been devised to secure an identical end. Turning to the more technical feature, there was a fully equipped operating assay office conducted by students and efficient experts, as well as a technical and scientific library, a liberal space being allotted to geological maps, charts, models, etc. In addition to these educational and practical features, several states and nations installed in their ex- hibits certain specially distinctive objects more likely to attract the popu- lar eye, such as the gold ciuartz of California, the rare copper ores of Arizona, and the tellurides of Colorado, with occasional stone and metal monuments and trophies of artistic merit and industrial significance. MINING GULCH AND THE CEMENT BUILDING. Mining Gulch was a shallow ravine, extending south from the Mines and Metallurgy building, and embracing about 13 acres. It was filled with mining and metallurgical exhibits in actual operation. This had a length of about 1,200 feet, with an average width of 400 feet. At the northeastern end of this ravine and where it widened on the west side was erected the cement building. In this, constructed entirely of cement, were exploited the many methods now in use for the prepara- tion and mixing of cement rocks. To this was added articles illustrating Mining and Metallukgical Palace 173 the uses of cement, and equipment for cement testing. The Cement building was of itself a most important feature of the exhibit. As an allied industry to that of cement was found a working exhibit illustrating the manipulation of fire and pottery clays, with the continued processes from the rolls and crushers through grinders, mixing pans, and dryers, to the potter's wheel and firing ovens, the artist's studio and the final glazing. Adjacent to the pottery and cement works were the terminal or dump- ing bins of a series of aerial wire tramways, which having taken their contents from the sources of sujjply at the head of the ' ' Gulch, ' ' conveyed them at high levels along the entire length of the ravine to be finally de- posited or reconveyed to their source automatically by methods in con- stant and actual practice in many mining districts. artesian well and oil-boeing outfits. Occupying the intervening spaces between the elevated tramway cables, projected the derricks of several artesian wells and oil-boring outfits in actual operation, together with a full display of tools and other appliances, demonstrating by actual operation all the practical methods of sinking through sand, gravel and rock, the extraction of wedged and broken tools, the application of sand pumps and torpedoes, together with the processes of tubing, and finally of the pumping of the oil with subse- quent storage and transportation. GOLD mill in operation. On the abrupt slopes of the area was an operating gold mill, in which were shown the method of crushing gold ore, and the collection of the metallic contents on plates, followed by the concentration of the tailings and slimes. In continuation of this practical gold mill was another espe- cially designed to demonstrate the use and application of cyanide and other chemical processes in the extraction of gold from tailings that have passed over the plates and concentrating tables. Further on were exhibited the primitive and picturesque methods of smelting copper ores practiced by Mexican Indians by processes in use when Cortez visited that country. The natives engaged in this work lived on the ground in their tile covered huts and prepared their corn and food in primitive hand-mills, baking their tortillas in still more primitive clay ovens. 174 Mining and Metalluegicax, Palace As an allied exhibit to the adjoining coal mine there was an electric railway, in which was demonstrated a novel and effective method for the utilization of the third or central rail in the operation of coal mining trains around abrupt curves and over steep grades. The overhead tram- ways were utilized when needed to convey raw and waste materials to and from the several special points indicated above and in fact they illustrated what is rapidly becoming one of the most economic features in the operation of mines located at otherwise inaccessible points. GENEEAL FEATURES OF THE DEPAETMENT. The exhibits of this department generally illustrated the great sci- entific advances made in getting from mother earth her raw minerals and, with the least possible waste, transforming them into such shape that they could be used by the manufacturer. Gold, silver, copper, iron and all the other ores were shown passing through the most modern processes, often in contrast with the ancient methods, until they ap- peared, freed of all refuse and ready to be transformed into a thousand forms of beauty and utility. Coal, which in combination with the re- fined products, forms the basis of the manufacturing industries, was also mined according to the most ingenious and economical modern methods. The coal of industry and the coal of the household was very largely in evidence, both the extent and graphic nature of this class of exhibits being especially impressive. If there were any real monarchs in this department they were Coal and Iron. CHAPTER XIII. THE, PALACE, OF LIBERAL ARTS The Graphic, or Recording Arts— German Public Works— Wonderful Chinese Wood Work— What Latter-Day Photographers Do — Development of the Piano — Largest Organ in the World— A Factory of Sound, Electrically Driven— Five Organs Combined in One- Key Desk Worked by Electric Cable— Organist with Four Hands— Manual and Pedal Departments— Civil and Military Engineering— Solidification of Hydrogen— Germany's Exposition of Printing, Photography and Hygiene— China's Complete, Fantastic Show- ing — Col. John O. Ockerson, Chief of the Department. THE place occupied by Liberal Arts in the higher development of mankind was well indicated by the position given it in the arrange- ment of the different exposition departments. It was one step ahead of Manufactures and one step behind Art. In other words, the Louisiana Purchase Exposition recognized that, while no apt phrase has as yet been coined to comprehensively define ''Liberal Arts," the department is nearly related to Manufacture and closely akin to both Science and Art. The department was housed in the most easterly of the exhibit palaces, a splendid structure covering nine acres. It was within the walls of this building, on April 30 and May 1 and 2, that the ceremonies incident to the dedication of the exposition took place, in the presence of one of the greatest audiences ever assembled in one enclosure west of the Mississippi river, and was graced by the presence of President Eoosevelt, former President Cleveland and other distinguished guests. WEIGHTS AND MEASURES GALOEE. What man has learned in the art of measurement since he surveyed ground by stepping it off, found the weight of an object by holding it in one hand and comparing it with a stone held in the other, and counted on his fingers or with notches on sticks, was vividly shown by an impor- tant part of the exhibits in the Palace of Liberal Arts. Eules, surveyors ' instruments, scales and counting machines told part of the story and in endless variety displayed the different branches into which the first principles have grown. 175 176 The Palace of Liberal Arts From the plain footrule to the surveyor's instniments which call higher mathematics into service when computing distance, the exhibit of linear measurement was complete. There were scales that would weigh the most slender thread of a spid- er 's web and those that registered in tons; scales balanced on jewels for the most delicate uses of chemists, and scales with huge beams a man could not lift ; spring, balance and lever scales, every type and in count- less number, placed side by side to tell what has been learned in the art of determining weights. the graphic, or recording arts. The graphic arts record the achievements that other arts accomplish. Typesetting machines, American and foreign, were in operation, and the automatic production of type, either in solid lines or in single letters, gave no hint of the struggles Guttenberg first had when he cut all his type by hand. Printing presses formed one of the most complete exhibits in the building. They ranged from machines which print visiting cards to the big newspaper press into one end of which a roll of paper feeds its web, to come out at the other side a neatly folded newspaper. Color presses in operation answered queries of the curious, anxious to learn how maga- zine sections of Sunday newspapers are made. A popular magazine was printed, the complete operation from paper roll to bound volume, ready for the news stand, being in plain view. Allied with the printing arts are lithographing and engraving, and thousands saw for the first time at the fair how a photograph is handled in a newspaper office or publishing house, in order to reproduce it on paper. A wall covered with posters that made college men envious was the most striking feature of the lithographic display. GERMAN public WORKS PICTURED. Painstaking German surveyors had a wonderful series of maps, relief and outline, which attracted those interested in public works. The con- struction of reservoirs, sewers, parks and streets was covered by photo- graphs, working plans, drawing and miniature models made of the actual materials employed. How a city can be laid out to secure the best sanitary regulations, the most beautiful arrangement of streets and parks, and the greatest possible good to all classes of its inhabitants were all shown. The Palace of Libekai. Arts 177 Many tourists who had made a trip to Cologne to see its great cathedral stopped in admiration before the immense map, and just beneath, the beautiful painting of the entire city. WONDERFUL CHINESE WOOD WORK. With miniature pagodas the Chinese tell how they have mastered cabinet work and the art of carving. The wood-working accomplish- ments of the native artists put to shame anything else of the kind shown in the building. Scores of models of quaintly-shaped junks contrasted oddly with the highly polished models of the royal yachts in the German exhibit close by. Photographs, from snap shots to color pictures which rivaled brilliant oil paintings won the admiration of all who were familiar with a camera 's possibilities. what latter-day photographers do. Daguerre would have been equally amazed with those unfamiliar with some of the work by latter-day photographers, had he been there to see the photographs which looked as if they had been drawn with a pencil, photographs appearing to have been painted with gray and white pig- ments on rough canvas, portraits which could not be told from wood- engraving first proofs, landscapes with all of their natural colors cor- rectly blended, to say nothing of the pictures presenting studies in light and shading dear to the heart of the artist. DISPLAY or mathematical and scientific instruments. The maker of mathematical, philosophical and other scientific instru- ments has kept pace with the spread of knowledge and the investigation of scientists. The importance of this industry and its leading position were more fully appreciated when the elaborate displays by leading manufacturers were seen by the public. An equatorial telescope weigh- ing 4,000 pounds was one of the most interesting items of this display. Progress in medicine and surgery were shown by an excellent exhibit of appliances, instruments and apparatus for research in these depart- ments. A complete modern hospital, with all of the accessories and apparatus known to the most advanced surgery was the most prominent feature of this group. 178 The Palace of Liberal Arts THE DEVELOPMENT OP THE PIAKO SHOWN. The development of the piano from the earliest days of its history to the present time was shown by a leading manufacturer. Especially did this retrospective exhibit show the evolution of the instrument during the past century. The methods used in the manufacture of a piano were indicated by another exhibitor, while the automatic instruments, which have so rapidly developed in the last ten years, were exceedingly well displayed. There were marvelous exhibits of band instruments, of cunningly wrought and invaluable stringed instruments, of church, chapel and par- lor organs, of pianos by the most famous builders of today, and some positive novelties in music-producing instruments. THE LARGEST ORGAN IN THE WORLD. In Festival Hall, entered as an exhibit through the Department of Liberal Arts, was the largest organ in the world. It has five manuals and 140 speaking stops, and was itself, in truth, one of the marvels of the exposition. This organ was built by the Murray M. Harris Organ Com- pany, of Los Angeles, California, under the W. B. Fleming patents. It is an instrument capable of producing 17,179,869,183 distinct tonal effects, a continuous performance that would last 32,600 years if a differ- ent one of these combinations were drawn every minute in those centuries of time. The wonderful impressiveness of its proportions and its overpower- ing volume of sound are the least of its remarkable achievements in the realm of instrumental music. That its thousands of pipes sound the pro- foundest depths of the grand passions as easily as the wind stirs the leaves to fairy cadences, is an infinitesimal part of its accomplishments. Effects never heard outside the grand orchestra until the manufac- ture of this colossus, place its expressive powers far in advance of other organs. All of the wood instruments of the full band are contained within its vast compass. A FACTORY OF SOUND, ELECTRICALLY DRIVEN. Large as a brick block, 62 feet long, 40 feet high and 33 feet wide, and possessing 140 stops, 239 movements and 10,059 pipes, it overshadows the most famous instrument of Christendom. It cost approximately iThe Palace of Liberal Aets 179 $100,000. Only the master musicians may command its marvelous volu- bility. Two electric motors, each of 10 horsepower, drive this factory of sound, the construction of which required 100,000 feet of lumber and 115 miles of wire. The metal pipes alone consumed 16,000 pounds of zinc and 9,000 pounds of soft metal; its wooden pipes contain 35,000 feet of California sugar pine. a pony can pass theough the pipes. The two pipes drawing the lowest tones are each 32 feet long; two good sized men, side by side, or a small pony, can pass through them. A train of ten cars is needed to transport this monster when it is moved. OTHER WORLD-FAMED ORGANS. The only organ in the world that even approaches this one is the immense instrument in the Town Hall at Sydney, New South Wales, the masterpiece of famous English builders. The Australian giant has 128 stops, as compared with the 140 stops of the world 's fair champion. The next organs in rank are those in the cathedral at Riga, Russia, with four manuals and 124 stops ; Albert Hall, London, 4 manuals and 109 stops ; Garden City, L. L, 4 manuals and 115 stops ; Chicago Audi- torium, 4 manuals and 111 stops ; Leeds Town Hall, England, 4 manuals and 110 stops; Seville, Spain, 3 manuals and 110 stops; St. Sulpice, Paris, 5 manuals and 100 stops; St. George's Hall, Liverpool, 4 manuals and 100 stops, and Ulm Cathedral, 4 manuals and 100 stops. FIVE ORGANS COMBINED IN ONE. Five separate organs are combined within this enormous mass of enginery, electrical mechanism and wind pressure; the first or Great Organ; the second, or Choir Organ; the third, or Swell Organ; the fourth, or Solo Organ, and the fifth, or Echo Organ. The Echo Organ alone is 18 feet wide, 17 feet high and 10 feet deep. It has a special bel- lows, 12 feet long by 4 feet wide, operated by a motor of one and a half horsepower. Five organs can be automatically played at one time by a double roll self-performing attachment, on a separate console or key desk. This ar- rangement draws out the tremendous power and beauty of the five organs, a feat utterly beyond the range of human fingers. 180 The Palace of Liberal Arts key desk worked by electric cable. A movable console or key desk, the only one in the United States, serves the organist in playing the great organ. His fingers must com- mand five manuals or key boards, making a flight of five stairs. This console, which is movable, is connected to the organ by an electric cable, 150 feet long. When seated before the instrument, the musician must dominate the five manual stairs, the 140 draw stop knobs, five tremolant draws and 36 couple draws, the 46 push buttons belonging to the ad- justable combination system and all the feet levers controlling the expres- sive powers of the whole organ. THE ORGANIST WITH FOUR HANDS. The second or self-playing console is stationary. Through the agency of the stationary key desk the greatest symphony orchestra scores can be played verbatim without having to reduce the scope of the composition to bring it within the range of human fingers. As an illustration of its superhuman compass, it may be said that a full orchestration would call for ten fingers on each hand. The automatic device can perform it just as easily as any smaller number. A double touch used in this con- nection has never been heard of before, producing effects precisely the same as if the organist had four hands, two of which were playing full harmony scores on one manual while the other two were performing a stately theme on the full organ. \ The most sudden changes of tonality are instantly commanded by the double touch. A slightly increased pressure on the keys by the fingers of the virtuoso will add the voices of any stops drawn from the expressive division of the instrument, an addition that can be made to any note or group of notes under the fingers. It is a mechanical expedient obtained in no other existing organ in the United States and in no first-class con- cert organ in the world. In its mechanical intricacies, this most marvelous of instruments pre- sents the highest types of organ building. Five swell boxes, enclosing the several organs combined in one instrument required 7,500 feet of sugar pine; five automatic electrical swell engines operate the shutters of these boxes; 5,000 open circuits connect the various parts. THE ELECTRICAL MECHANISM. A motor generator supplying the storage batteries was arranged to permit the playing of the organ continuously through the entire period of The PaIxA.ce op Liberal Aets 181 the exposition. Ah immense switchboard showed the voltage and strength of the batteries at all times ; an ammeter showed the amount of current being used; a polarity indicator told whether the polarity was right, and a pilot lamp indicated to a certain extent the strength of the batteries. There are 1,016 automatic knobs for setting combinations throughout the organ, and the instrument contains 1,300 magnets for both key and draw stop actions. Five bellows, each measuring 12 feet long by 6 feet wide, are operated by the two ten-horse power motors of 220 volts, and furnish the wind pressure, which is distributed to the 140 speaking stops and 10,059 pipes through wind chests requiring 20,000 feet of lumber in their construction ; fhe bellows and regulators consumed 8,000 feet, and the wind trunks an additional 2,000 feet. MANUAL AND PEDAL DEPARTMENTS. The organ consists of two departments, manual and pedal, com- manded respectively by the hands and feet of the performer. The manual department, comprised of 110 speaking stops and 8,907 pipes of metal and wood, is controlled by five claviers or key boards of 61 keys each. The five claviers command the five separate divisions or organs. The pedal organ is the largest and most complete in the world. It is provided with all the leading varieties of what is technically known as the imitative and unimitative tones furnishing appropriate basses for all classes of musical combinations. Thirty-six couplers when joined to the keyboard produce 28 different relations. There are eight pedal organ couplers, 11 unison couplers, seven sub-octave couplers and 10 octave couplers— an array of couplers never before approached in any organ. Thirteen speaking stops in the first sub-division of the Great Organ form the foundation tone of the entire instrument. Its second sub- division, including the three important reed stops, is capable of multiply- ing the tonal effects tenfold. THE SWELL ORGAN AND BRASS- WIND DIVISION. The third or swell organ introduces for the first time the true or- chestral element from which the world's fair organ derives its advanced position among the great concert organs. It possesses the flutes, piccolo, clarinet, oboe, corno di bassette fagotto and contragetto, the horn and violin, besides the human voice. Another division of the swell has no 182 The Palace of Liberal. Arts counterpart. It contains 1,281 pipes, every one of which is string tone. Nearly all of these pipes are made of pure tin. The brass-wind division is represented by the solo organ. Here are placed such stops as the orchestral flute, orchestral clarinet, orchestral trumpet, trombone, bass trombone, tuba and bass tuba. chemical and pharmaceutical laboratories. Returning to the Palace of Liberal Arts, there were yet many hun- dreds of undescribed exhibits that commanded the attention of the visitor. In the report of the twelfth census on the chemical industries of the United States, attention was called to the large amount of capital in- vested in the business and its rapid development during the ten years from 1890 to 1900. The allotment of space to exhibitors in the group of Chemical and Pharmaceutical Arts is indicative of this rapid progress. A complete chemical laboratory was one feature; another showed how perfumery is made from flowers; yet others displayed the products of the best laboratories of the country. civil and military engineering illustrated. Civil and military engineering, models, plans and designs of public works and architectural engineering, comprising three groups, with ex- cellent displays by many exhibitors, gave a comprehensive idea of the great work accomplished by the engineers of this country. Typical of these groups, in the very center of the Liberal Arts Palace, rose a reproduction to scale of the lighthouse at the Southwest Pass of the Mississippi river. At its base, surrounding it on every side, were en- gineering exhibits and apparatus used by engineers, and in that vicinity were installed various kindred and related exhibits. A great array of machinery used in preparing good roads and streets, earth handling and rock-crushing machinery of the latest patterns, and new devices for mixing concrete, water purifying machinery, filtration plants, etc., were well displayed. Out-of-doors, in the space between the Palace of Varied Industries and the Palace of Transportation, were exhibits of steam shovels, pile drivers and wrecking cranes in operation. The crane exhibit was of es- pecial interest to engineers. In a word, the liberal Arts Department by its exhibits fulfilled com- prehensively the position given it in the exposition exhibit arrangement. The Pajlace op Liberal. Arts 183 Its mission was not only to interest but to educate, and in every instance where it was possible, the underlying idea of the Louisiana Purchase Ex- position, ''life and motion," was carried out. BROAD AND INTERESTING BRITISH EXHIBIT. The British Kingdom arranged a very complete and comprehensive display of products called for by the Liberal Arts classification. It in- cluded a large collective exhibit of specimens of typography and books by the very best English printers and publishers. Photography, now so important a factor in the life of every civilized nation, was represented by an elaborate exhibit, including specimens of historic photographs from Sir Benjamin Stone, M. P., and other important collections. Especially important and interesting was the exhibit in the realm of chemistry. There were many models, plans and photographs of great engineering public works, including models of light houses, a model of the Assouan dam, and a most interesting exhibit of geographical maps from the Royal Geographical Society, including exhibits by the Palestine, Egyptian and Cretan Exploration Funds, and maps from the Imperial surveys. The British mint showed a most interesting collection of ancient and modern coins, medals and seals. SOLIDIFICATION OP HYDROGEN BY PROPESSOR. DEWAR. Possibly the most interesting exhibit in the British section was that of Professor Dewar, whose conspicuous achievements in the liquefaction and solidification of hydrogen, and the remarkable results which he has obtained by his experiments are all matters of common knowledge to scientists. The Liberal Arts Committee of the Eoyal Commission ar- ranged a collective exhibit illustrative of the work done in low tempera- ture investigations embracing the recent achievements of that eminent scientist. A complete working plant, practically a duplicate of that employed at the Royal Institution, capable of making two liters of liquid hydrogen, was constructed under the superintendence of Professor Dewar in London, and erected at the exposition. Periodical demonstrations were made of the properties of liquid hydrogen and the separation of helium, etc., from gas mixtures ; phosphorescence, photographic action, luminosity of radium in liquified hydrogen, electric crystals, direct liquefaction and solidification of air and oxygen, the solidification of hydrogen and the production of the lowest temperature obtained, i. e., —259 degrees Centi- grade. 184 The Palace of Liberal Arts In the space allotted to France in the Department of Liberal Arts, that nation was given ample opportunity for a most generous display and the exhibit in the French section was not only of enormous value but im- portant and interesting. Germany's exposition of printing, photography, hygiene, etc. The German Empire occupied a generous amount of space in the Palace of Liberal Arts. Especially interesting was the exhibit of print- ing from the German Imperial Office, and publications of the German book-trade, specimens of artistic photography and numerous geographical maps ; models, plans and designs of public works and other evidences of the achievements by famous German engineers in river improvements, canals, etc., which was especially arranged for the Universal Exposition by the Prussian Minister of Public Works. The Imperial Board of Health organized a hygienic exhibition. In the manufacture of paper and chemicals, of scientific instruments, and of artificial textiles, Germany was splendidly represented. argentine and MEXICO WELL REPRESENTED. Argentine, while not occupying so great a space as any of the fore- going countries, demonstrated by many relief maps, albums of photo- graphs, models of docks and public works, the great improvements which her engineers have made in the rivers and harbors of this most progres- sive South American country. Mexico surprised the world by the excellence of her exhibits in typo- graphy, chemical production and engineering works, while Italy and Siam presented displays of absorbing interest. china's COMPLETE, FANTASTIC SHOWING. China's principal exhibit was made in this great building. From the nation where printing and the making of books was many hundred years old before Guttenberg discovered his movable types, came specimens of early printing, ancient manuscripts, works of ancient carvers in wood and jade, trophies from her temples and palaces, ancient and fantastic armor and weapons of war old in the days of Confucius and still in use, costumes from widely separated provinces of the Empire, musical in- struments strange in shape and weird in tone, together with concrete evidences of China 's recent advancement toward closer relationship with *-H en r^ .5 cs tc tn F ^ ^ » O! ^ CS 03' Oi 03 ,tj =4H "1 « O O !» o ti -. ^hJ ^ d " >■. "3 03 }5 01 P< ^ ^ r3 g -1^ fi h ij fl •w l_i ft hn^ ^ >^ &r^ M w P 33 h-l 83 -M rn -*^ -Ij -sj s ^ ^ s I- CO -^ ^ 3 > ^H C W o g ^ > QJ .r-H &c ,^ OS Xi ns O 'OrS -«.g -(J o a! •J -a C''^ Ah SI S P^ cS O /? "^ =Ci 2 s« 2^ to a> -^ R a a SS s 'a| a; ^^ .S '^ ^ o a o pnS ft .S S a o "^ V ■^ QJ ^ O ;h t;; -a ^ a § ?U 02 'ODP-t 03 .S =4-1 ■Td '^ o Sij-'H ® a) ;:! o o ■= & OJ tc o bjo CO rt as §.^ . .2 a ^ > QJ o -^ (S P CD "'3 PI fl O ^ M=H =^ O ^ ^ ^^ >. ^ O -^^ pq ^ fl The Palace op Electeicity 217 kind of electrical apparatus shown in the Palace of Electricity. The presence of such laboratories at an exposition was a new departure, and added greatly to the value of the awards, as the personal factor and the personal judgment of the jury were minimized because the actual data regarding the performance of the machines or mechanism could be accurately ascertained. HISTOEICAL ELECTEICAL EXHIBITS. A number of historical exhibits of very great merit were displayed in this building. Thomas A. Edison, Chief Consulting Electrical Engi- neer of the Department, made a personal exhibit, showing the earliest forms of the incandescent lamp, phonograph, generators and other me- chanisms which he has contributed so much to develop. The storage battery he has designed especially for automobile use, combining light weight with high discharge rates, drew the attention of engineers as well as the public. DISPELLIISTG POPULAE IGNOEANCE. Through the American Institute of Electrical Engineers, all kinds of early types of electrical machines and apparatus were shown, and this temporary collection proved to be the most complete ever gathered together. Displays from several associations, universities and labora- tories contained delicate and accurate instruments, as well as indicated methods of research work. It was intended to have these exhibits which are not commercial in character highly educating to the public, and thus dispel to some extent the mystery which enshrouds the layman's mind in all things pertaining to this form of energy— a purpose that was largely fulfilled. MYSTEEIES OF ELECTEICAL PALACE. If the old Greeks, who found that pieces of amber rubbed together would attract feathers, and thereupon decided that amber had a soul, unconsciously discovering the first electrical phenomenon recorded, could have been with the crowds in the Palace of Electricity, they would have decided that the soul is a much greater thing than even their philosophers imagined. It has taken a long time to work the problem out, but the big, noise- less overhead crane in the Electricity building that picked up huge cast- ings weighing tons as easily as the amber picked up partridge feathers, did it by the same electrical power. 218 The Palace of Electricity Whirling dynamos, gathering the mysterious current from appar- ently nothing but the surrounding air, flashed it along wires to the mo- tors which it propelled. And the motors did almost everything. The huge overhead crane was the biggest thing they moved, and the mar- velous ease with which it was handled gives a good idea of how elec- tricity can be made to toil. The same immense dynamos that furnished current for power, furnished currents for dazzling lights of every type from tiny incandes- cents to the big searchlights which threw their beams for miles. The same current supplied to the telephone systems in the building carried the voice and operated the telegraph instruments and stock tickers. ELECTRICITY IN WARFARE. Telephony, telegraphy (both wireless and along metal conductors), had their divisions, and so had electric lighting. The modem uses of the latter in warfare and in peace were fully demonstrated, searchlights for battleships and for forts ranging beside the beacon lights that shine forth from coast-guard towers. More than seven acres of floor space were devoted to this wonderful lesson in the growth of man's control of electricity and his application of the mysterious power to the improvement of his condition. It was the first time in the history of expositions that such a display had been made and the assembling of apparatus from all over the world was considered one of the brilliant and distinctive features of this world's fair. INTERNATIONAL ELECTRICAL CONGRESS. Not only in a material way was the Electrical Department a center of interest, but the International Electrical Congress drew from all countries the most eminent engineers. The Congress at Chicago in 1893, and at Paris in 1900, had an important influence on the world's progress in the knowledge and application of electricity and magnetism, and it was to be expected that the gathering at St. Louis would be e'qually po- tent. Conventions of electrical associations were held simultaneously in connection with the Congress, but each had its separate program and place of meeting, until the final day, when a general convocation was called. The exposition authorities provided ample facilities for the ac- commodation of the Congress and the various conventions in the halls of the Washington University, and the other buildings about the grounds. CHAPTER XVI. THE PALACE OF AGRICULTURE Largest of the Exposition Palaces — Chief of Department, Frederick W. Taylor — Descrip- tion of Building — The Leviathan Contrasted — Scope of the Exhibits — Rivalry Among the States — Bounty of Nature Shown — Corn is King — Panorama of Cotton Industry — Commercial Aspects Shown — Sugar Industry Demonstrated — Tobacco in Many Forms — Products of the American Cow — Scientific Treatment of Milk — Sculpture in Butter and Cheese — Food and Food Products — A Grand Free Lunch — World's Largest Wine Cask — Agricultural Implements — Home for Farmers' Meetings — A Map in Living Vegetation. THE Palaces of Agriculture and Horticulture crowned a beautiful eminence, rightly named "Agricultural Hill." They provided for the housing of the products of the fields, orchards, vineyards and gardens, and were surrounded by profuse formal and informal land- scape gardening, making a setting at once appropriate and pleasing in artistic grouping. Grasses, bulbs, shrubs, creepers, aquatics, roses, coni- fers and all else that Mother Nature supplies in wanton profusion were blended in this setting for these imposing structures. LARGEST OP THE EXPOSITION PALACES. The Palace of Agriculture, the largest structure on the grounds, cov- ered approximately twenty acres of land, and the Palace of Horticul- ture, six acres. These structures were treated in color, in part, and in that much differed from the other exposition palaces, which were finished in old ivory tints. In all, inside and outside space, more than seventy acres were devoted to the progress and development of the science of husbandry. The twenty acres of floor space devoted to agriculture proved much less than could be used by this largest and most profitable of American industries. Enormous as the structure was, there were ungranted ap- plications for space on file which would require an additional twenty acres. This condition illustrated the widespread interest and activity in all that pertains to the soil and its fruits. 219 220 The Palace of Agkicultuee chief of depaktmeistts, feedeeic w. taylor. For the excellence of these two great features of the fair credit is due to Frederic W. Taylor, chief of both departments. To both he brought exceedingly useful experience and ability. Mr. Taylor is a "Western man. He served a thorough apprenticeship in the nursery business with his father, as well as in one of the largest nurseries of the country, and almost immediately after attaining his majority embarked in the nur- sery business for himself, at the same time managing a large stock farm. In 1887 he was made Professor of Horticulture at the University of Nebraska, holding the position for several years, also carrying the organization and management of the farmers' institutes of the State and of the university extension work. By reason of his close acquaintance with farming throughout all these years he has kept in close touch with the advancement and use of improved methods and appliances. Mr. Taylor's exposition experience began when he took charge of the Nebraska State Horticultural Exhibit at the Chicago exposition. He was very successful as Superintendent of Agriculture, Horticulture and Forestry at the Trans-Mississippi Exposition at Omaha, in 1898. At the Pan-American Exposition he combined the arduous duties of Di- rector of Concessions and those of Superintendent of Horticulture, For- estry and Foods and their Accessories, leaving that exposition only to begin the preparatory work connected with the two departments of the Louisiana Purchase Exposition. He has attended many of the large expositions of Europe, thereby broadening his knowledge of the work. DESCEIPTIOE" OF THE PALACE. The Agriculture Palace was 500 feet wide by 1,600 feet, or over a quarter of a mile in length. These bare figures do not convey an ade- quate idea of the mammoth proportions of the structure with its 800,000 square feet, equaling nearly twenty acres of floor space. The contract price for the construction of the Palace of Agriculture was $529,940. This does not include the expense of applying the colors in the working out of the elaborate and beautiful color scheme or for other incidentals. A walk of three-quarters of a mile was required to simply pass around it. The diagonal of the building was nearly a third of a mile. The Eiffel Tower, lying flat on its side, would measure less than two- thirds of the length of the building, while three Washington monuments could have been laid end to end diagonally through it. TliE Palace op Agkicultuee 221 THE LEVIATHAN CONTEASTED. Sixteen vessels of the size of the largest steamer afloat, the Cedric, could be housed in thfr building and there would be room left for the landing stage. Thirteen miles of freight cars, together with locomotives and way-cars enough to handle them, could be housed in the building. Arranged as a corn crib it could hold nearly the entire crop for two years of New England and New York, or half the sixty-five million bushels constituting the average annual crop of Missouri. Converted into a vast silo, and filled, it would store silage enough to winter many more than the three million head of cattle shown by the last census to be in Missouri. Used as an apple bin, it would hold a peck of fruit for each man, woman and child in the United States, the Philippines and Hawaii, and there would be a double supply for each of our Cuban neighbors. The entire barley crop of the United States could have been housed in it. The first thought suggested by looking upon this colossus was ac- knowledgment of the truth of the statement of James J. Hill, the rail- way magnate, that ''nearly one-half of the capital of the country is invested in agricultural land, and what goes with it for the purpose of making it productive. Nearly one-half of the population of the country is directly or indirectly connected with the cultivation of the soil, and if we judge from all the experience of the past, the agricultural half of the population has done more than its share in everything that goes to benefit the country as a whole." SCOPE OF THE EXHIBIT. The general scope of the classification and grouping in the Palace of Agriculture covered all the products coming from the soil; the tools, implements, methods of cultivation, of harvesting, of irrigation, of drain- age; the by-products and the manufactured forms of those products; their preparation and preservation, including everything edible and drinkable which comes however remotely from the soil and which enters into the home life or commerce of the people of the world. At the opening of the fair there were on file in the Department of Agriculture, formal applications from fifteen foreign countries and forty-two states and tentative applications from a number of other for- eign countries. 222 The Palace of Agricultuee In nearly every case, the applications were for a greater amount of space than was possible to set aside, even though the exhibits offered were of the highest possible excellence. EIVALRY AMONG THE STATES. A friendly rivalry among the States was strongly manifested by the painstaking elaboration which characterized their efforts in presenting the salient phases of the agriculture of each. The experience of the past, combined with modern knowledge in producing the results, made the St, Louis world's fair par excellence the most comprehensive and intelligent epitome of husbandry yet seen by the world. BOUNTY OF NATUEE SHOWN. Special features in the way of universal exhibits occupied the central bay of the Palace of Agriculture. This bay was 106 by 1,600 feet, and the truss beams 60 feet from the floor. Here were corn, cotton, tobacco, cane and beet sugar, pure foods, and Experiment Station exhibits, which have to do with practical agriculture. By ' ' Special Exhibits ' ' is meant that the presentation of these crops was compiled from the products of each of the States growing them on a commercial scale. These uni- versal exhibits were really auxiliary to the State collections; and were intended to relieve them in a certain sense from sameness and repetition by bringing the materials from each and blending them into an har- monious whole; and at the same time to carefully emphasize character- istics and peculiarities in the cultivation, harvesting and handling, as well as the differences in the resulting products coming from the vary- ing soils and climatic conditions prevailing in this country. COEN IS KING. Every state in the union was represented in the rivalry over corn. In the 15,000 feet devoted to corn the product of each of the states could be found in apposition for easy comparison and this proved of great interest to the grower, no matter from whence he hailed. All that pertains to corn and its cultivation, including methods, selection and breeding, was shown. Adjoining were found the commercial products and by-products of com; the several varieties of starch, of glucose, of dextrin, of sugar, of syrup; corn oil, rubber, oil cake, germ oil meal, gluten meal; of corn meal, samp, grits, hominy; of stock foods, stover, The Palace of Agriculture 223 ensilage, fodder, shucks, shuck mats and mattresses; canned or pre- served corn, malt, dry wines, whisky, alcohol, cob ash, cob pipes, etc. Besides these objects the statistical phase of the crop was so illus- trated as to show at a glance the production in the United States and the relation each state bears to the total crop, and other pertinent items of statistical interest. The very conspicuous space allotted to this feature, comprising three blocks, was so located as to present most effectively from all direc- tions of approach the ornate design intended to cover the whole space boundaries. The exterior was treated exclusively in corn, the shuck, stalk, ear, cob, and grain, all contributing to produce the most effective results. PANORAMA OF COTTON INDUSTRY. A space of similar size and location was devoted to cotton. Here again the methods of cultivation, of harvesting, of growing, of baling, and in fact, the whole story from the field to the factory door was fully illustrated, including some of the processes and a few of the cloths, showing the finished product. The purpose of the exhibit, which was participated in by all cotton-growing states, was to present an epitome of the cotton industry. It began with the preparation of the soil, then covered seeding, cul- tivation, harvesting, baling, and ended with the delivery at the factory door. All the tools, implements and machinery necessary for the dem- onstration of these processes were shown. In addition, the products and by-products of cotton and cotton seed were fully demonstrated. The cotton seed, for years considered of no value, has now become almost as important in its relations to commerce as the lint itself. The extraction of oil, its refining and preparation as food; the value of the meal, both as a fertilizer and as a food for animals; the hulls and their value as a food for animals and use in other ways, were all interestingly shown, to say nothing of the soap and lesser articles which find a place in the marts of the world. Texas, the largest producer of cotton in the world, took the lead in this enterprise, and the magnificent dome which ornamented the center of the exhibit, was surmounted by a figure holding aloft a lone star, the emblem of that state. Mississippi had a statue of King Cotton enthroned, more than thirty feet in height. This was surrounded by growing fields of the fleecy 224 The Palace of Ageicultuee staple, in wliicli could be seen four or five figures harvesting the crop. Missouri, Indian Territory, Georgia and North Carolina all joined in this magnificent presentation, the latter state showing the processes, including the cloths manufactured in that state. COMMEECIAL ASPECTS SHOWN. Commercial cotton samples from all the states and the leading world marts rested side by side, all graded and labelled; each cotton growing state having its section showing its lint and its commercial grades. The seed with its products of oil and meal and the by-products and uses of all of these were shown as already described. The presentation con- stituted a spectacle not seen in any previous exposition. The statistics of the crop were carefully worked out, so that the relation of the par- ticipating states to the total crop were plainly set forth. The ornamentation of the exhibit consisted of a central dome with lateral facades flanking the inner service aisles, the whole surrounded by low railing, thus giving full effect and force to the ornate elevation. This central figure was adorned by statuary representing an old style oil press operated by gracefully draped female figures which constituted the frontal piece of a vast crown shaped dome. The remaining orna- mentation was of cotton bolls and leaves, cotton baskets and other ap- propriate designs. SUGAE I1<7DUSTEY DEMONSTEATED. The sugar crop of the United States is one of growing importance, and the extension is notable in both the sources for sugar. The cane sugar interest is largely centered in Louisiana and that state, of course, took the lead in presenting this industry. The cane sugar industry was shown in its entirety, and proved one of the most entertaining exhibits in the building. Hardly second to it was the presentation of the beet sugar industry in the United States. This also was treated most elabo- rately, so that the visitor had ample opportunity for seeing the sugars made from cane and from beets; to compare them and the methods for producing them. TOBACCO IN MANY FOEMS. The space allotted to the special tobacco exhibit comprised four blocks in the central bay and contained approximately 20,000 feet of floor space. The plan formulated embraced the most graphic presenta- The Palace of Agricultuee 225 tion of tobacco in all its phases, from the seed to the finished commercial product, yet undertaken. More than twenty states of the union produce the weed in marketable quantities, and each displayed its variety or type incidental to soil, climate or other condition. These include what are known as ''brights," "hurley," ''cigar," ''Sumatra," "perique," "sm.okers," "chewers," and what not. For marketing purposes, these are subdivided into "grades" and under these grade names were exhibited, so that in one comprehensive exhibit the whole story of tobacco was told to the world. All of the states grow- ing the weed participated in exhibiting the seed, plant bed, field culture, curing process, saleswarehouses, leaf; the tools, implements and appli- ances used in the cultivation, harvesting and manufacture of the leaf. decorative features in tobacco. The superstructure was encased in leaf or other prepared forms of tobacco. The central feature consisted of an octagonal base, some forty feet in diameter, supporting the globe, twenty-four feet in diameter, upon which the general geographic divisions of the earth were faith- fully portrayed. Surmounting this was the figure of a galleon of the fifteenth and sixteenth century type, constructed of tobacco and sym- bolic of the first introduction of tobacco in the old world in 1585. The design included several models of the Indian, as it was through him, the original American, that this narcotic was given to soothe the masculine nerves of the civilized world. In the United States more than a million acres are devoted to the production of the eight hundred and fifty to nine hundred millions of pounds of leaf annually produced. From $50,000,000 to $60,000,000 paid to the planters is but a small part of the integral realized' for the manufactured and exported stock. The assembling of this vast interest into an ' ' Epitome of Tobacco, ' ' and its artistic treatment employed some of the best talent in the country. PRODUCT OP THE AMERICAN COW. How many of us realize the enormous value of the products of the cow to this country? Approxim^ately, $472,000,000 worth of milk, but- ter and cheese are produced in the United States each year. That sum at least was reported in the last census, and it must not be forgotten that 226 The Palace of Ageicultueb this climax has been reached by gradual growth, which continues, and the next census will show a handsome increase in these figures. The problem which confronted the exposition authorities was how to plan an exhibit which would fittingly represent this mighty interest. The dairy section at the world's fair occupied approximately 30,000 square feet in the Palace of Agriculture. A model creamery, using daily 5,000 pounds of milk, was one of the features illustrating processes and proved of great interest. It was equipped with all the latest butter and cheese-making apparatus of today and was in daily operation. Plate glass enclosed it, permitting visitors to see every stage of the process demonstrated. SCIENTIFIC TREATMENT OF MILK, Adjoining the creamery was a model dairy lunch exhibit. Milk, cream, butter and cheese, pure, sweet and fresh, the output of the cream- ery, could be found here, and purchasers could designate which they wished, sterilized, pasteurized or other. In connection with the creamery was shown a sanitary milk plant. This also was in daily operation, and demonstrated that pure milk may be furnished in cities as well as on the farm. The best way for shipping milk, the best containers, and the proper way to handle it were also shown. The process of pasteurizing milk was shown; where the milk was run through a series of utensils subjecting it to a heat of 160 degrees, when it was immediately cooled and restored to its normal temperature. This heat is sufficient to destroy most of the injurious germs that may be in the milk, yet does not impair itc nutrition. The sterilized milk is heated to the boiling point for a time to destroy other germs should they, be present. SCULPTURE IN BUTTER AND CHEESE. Few exhibits were of greater general interest than the lavish display of butter and cheese.. Here refrigeration was necessary and show cases were provided for the states and foreign countries that participated. The refrigerated cases were 90 feet long and 35 feet wide, of plate glass construction and the divisions eight feet square. The products of the dairy and creamery were displayed more attractively than was ever before attempted and consisted of figures of eminent persons, interesting The Palace of Agricultuee 227 objects and other forms of sculpture, including flowers and fruits all done in butter. Cases of like dini^nsions were cooled for the cheese exhibits, which included not only all forms manufactured in the United States, but many foreign examples rarely seen in this country. The famous Roquefort Cheese Company had an exhibit in this de- partment. In a large glass pavilion was a miniature plastic representa- tion of the mountain on which the goats feed, with the animals them- selves, the machinery with which the cheese is made, and the historic cellars where it is stored. Another exhibit in this section was the olive oil exhibit of James Plognial, of France. An olive tree containing 1,000 incandescent electric lights was a part of this display. FOOD AND FOOD PRODUCTS. More than three acres of space was devoted exclusively to foods, in- cluding the cereals and their products ; tubers and roots and their prod- ucts; coffees, teas, cocoa of all kinds and products; refrigerated fresh meats, poultry, fish and game ; eggs, farinaceous products, pastes, breads, cakes, tinned meats, evaporated and preserved fruits, spices and condi- ments; portable waters, beers, ales, wines, brandies, whiskies, cordials and everything else used as food or drink by mankind. Three acres of everything that is good to eat and drink! And the best part of it was that the visitor was invited to sample the dainty viands, or wholesome beverages, and satisfy himself as to their merits. Chief Taylor appointed Paul Pierce to superintend this food exhibit, the first of a universal scope ever to be made. Mr. Pierce is a son of the late United States Senator Pierce, of North Dakota, and for ten years has been editor and publisher of a journal devoted to the interests of pure foods. A GRAND FREE LUNCH. Space for this attractive exhibit was assigned in the central nave of the Agriculture building. One of the most appetizing exposition dis- plays ever contemplated was shown every day of the fair. Not only were the foods of the world shown, but each exhibitor gave demonstrations of the qualities of his wares. Thus the breakfast food manufacturers were not content with showing a pyramid of packages, and their food in bulk, but neatly clad girls prepared and served all the dainty dishes of which breakfast food is the principal ingredient. Bak- 228 The Palace of Agkicultuke ing powder manufacturers employed experts who served the lightest and fluffiest of biscuits, and in order to make them in greater demand served them with the best creamery butter and syrup of fruit. The fruit preservers and the pickle manufacturers took large blocks of space and displayed several hundred varieties that the world's fair visitor might select samples from at will. The chocolate and cocoa interests made a great bid for popularity. A cup of rich chocolate, and any of the toothsome desserts of which the products of the chocolate bean form a component part, were served in its most enticing form, while the one who prefers cocoa might have his want supplied for the mere suggestion. If the housewife observed keenly the tricks of the experts who made the delicious coifees that were served from the artistic booths she must learn much of the art of coffee-making. And as for tea, the growers from all climes exerted their best efforts to prove that their tea had the most delightful flavor. And so it was all down the line of edibles. The same thing was true of soft drinkables. world's largest wine cask. In this connection was shown the largest wine cask ever made. It was in the cooperage exhibit of Adolphe Ftuhinsholz in the Palace of Agriculture. It was 17^2 f^et in diameter and liy^ feet long, and held 14,300 gallons. It was made entirely of oak, the wood being from Mississippi, Kentucky and Tennessee. The staves of the cask were five inches thick. Experienced coopers were brought from Nancy, France, to construct the cask. AGRICULTUSAL IMPLEMENTS, TOOLS, ETC. Another great block of space was supplied for the manufacturers of agricultural implements, tools and machinery. All the newest and latest devices for the tilling of the soil or the handling of farm products were lavishly displayed. The many millions of dollars invested in the production of imple- ments used in the various processes of agriculture, raise that section to such an importance that it seemed to the management unfair to ask the manufacturers to be content with an annex, a lean-to or a subsidiary place of any sort. Plans were accordingly made to give agricultural implements a location on the same floor and under the same roof, with The Palace oe Ageicultuee 229 every facility afforded other exhibitors in this department of the expo- sition. With these arrangements supplied by the management the ex- hibitors felt warranted in Id stalling upon a higher and more artistic plane than has ever heretofore been practicable, giving the agricultural- ist a rare opportunity to study the implements and labor-saving devices of his calling. some outdoor exhibits. Windmills were accorded locations outside the building so that they might be shown in actual service. Outdoor locations were also provided for such massive agricultural machinery and engines as required such a position in order that they might properly present their special quali- ties to the critical visitor. Space was also provided outside for such live crop exhibits as were necessary to give an adequate illustration of the methods of growing, fertilizing, cultivating and harvesting of crops, and to illustrate species and varieties of grains. HAUL. EOR FAEMEES' MEETINGS. There was also in the Palace of Agriculture a hall 50x106 feet, con- taining seating capacity to accommodate comfortably over a thousand people. This hall was constructed for the special purpose of providing a meeting place for all international, national, state and other agricul- tural and horticultural organizations which held their meetings in St. Louis in 1904. The use of the hall was without charge. A MAP IN LIVING VEGETATION. Typifying the agricultural resources of each state, a large map, cov- ering six acres, with cinder walks marking the boundary lines, showed visitors at the world's fair the growing crops of the nation as they are adapted to the various sections. Texas, with its enormous area, was represented with cotton through the central section, corn and wheat in the northern part of the state, range grass in the cattle belt and rice fields along the southern coast. Missouri was outlined by the crops common to her soil and blue grass was one of the products to show the topography of Kentucky. Every state in the union was similarly marked. This was one of the most comprehensive features of the government's agricultural display. In addition to the numerous features mentioned, there was much of 230 The Palace of Ageicultuee great interest in the foreign section, where England, France, Germany, Italy, Japan, Mexico, Canada, Egypt, Africa and other countries and islands of the sea vied with each other in showing to the New, the hus- bandry of the Old World. MOTHEE EAETH THE SOURCE OF LIFE AND LUXUEY. The last exhibit could not but strengthen the impression, carried away by the visitor to the Palace of Agriculture, that Mother Earth, after all, is the real source of all we are, and can substantially enjoy in this life. She is our safest dependence for both subsistence and luxury; for what are drought, flood and hurricane, when weighed against the fluctu- ations, uncertainties and wrecks of the industrial and business world? A DIGNIFIED PROFESSION. Agriculture has equally advanced with Mining, the Manufactures and Commerce. Science and invention have added as much to the possibil- ities for expansion in this field as in any other of the human activities. The modern and successful agriculturist is as active mentally as he is physically, since in order to meet competition he must keep abreast of all the latest improvements in machinery, renewal of the soil and rota- tion of crops. In certain directions he should be, and often is, a prac- tical chemist, knowing what elements to add to defective soils in order to best grow certain crops, or by the analysis of the soil being able to de- termine what crop will best flourish. The display in the Palace of Agriculture clearly illustrated the dig- nity of the farmer's calling. It is not an occupation to be trifled with, if success is anticipated. CHAPTER XVII. THE, PALACE, OF HORTICULTURE, Exhibitors Received Individual Credit — The Pomological Exhibit — ^Almost Perfect Interior Arrangements — Remarkable Apple Display — Tasting Countless Apples — A Peculiar Occupation — Collective Fruit Exhibit — Horticultural Machinery — Floral Exhibits. THE Palace of Horticulture consisted of a main central room four hundred feet square, with wings extending on opposite sides, each wing being 204 by 230 feet, the whole building thus covering almost ex- actly six acres of ground. Every foot of the great area was first-class ex- hibit space and no display was located on any but main-floor space. A fur- ther actual gain in the amount of available space was made through the policy followed in the classification by which all wines and brandies, preserved and canned fruit were classified in agriculture with other liquors and food products. The actual net space for exhibits was thus much more than was ever provided for horticultural exhibits at any ex- position. In the center of the building was a splendid collection of palms and decorative plants. Surrounding this, an area of two hundred feet square, was reserved for exhibits placed upon low tables. No installa- tion in this space was more than thirty inches in height. The building was lighted by windows in the walls and from above. The windows in the roof were not skylights but of the monitor form, so that no direct rays of sunshine from them touched the exhibits. EXHIBITORS RECEIVED INDIVIDUAL CREDIT. All exhibits were shown with the name and address of the producer attached, though the space may have been assigned to a National or State commission. The value of a rule of this kind is quite evident. The grower was given due credit for all the fruit furnished by him and the exhibits were of greater educational value because the exact loca- tion where the fruit was grown was given. Several reasons exist to explain why the exhibits in fresh fruits 231 232 The. Palace of Hobticultitee were mucli better than it lias heretofore been possible to make. Chief among these is the enormous advance that has been made in knowledge regarding refrigeration as a means of preserving for long periods the perishable fruits. Another reason is that St. Louis is now the center of the greatest apple, peach, grape and strawberry producing section of the world. This made possible the bringing together, from compara- tively nearby territory, of great quantities of fruits of the highest qual- it}^ and in a most varied assortment. THE POMOLOGICAL. EXHIBIT, The space devoted to Pomological exhibits was located in the main room of the Horticultural building. This space, as already stated, was much larger than has ever been devoted to a fruit exhibit at any exposi- tion, and it had the advantage of being in one large square room. The floor plan adopted was so arranged that there were no main aisles in the building, but instead it was cut up in such a way that the aisles ran in different directions; this arrangement making the entire area good exhibit space, because it distributed the visitors evenly over the entire space, and created no favored locations. This entire area was covered with fresh fruit on the opening day of the exposition, which is some- thing never attempted before at any world's fair. ALMOST PEEFECT INTEEIOE AEEAITGEMENTS. The central portion of the building, covering a space of forty thou- sand square feet, was devoted to table exhibits. This arrangement en- abled the visitor to locate any exhibit in the building from almost any point near the center, and also enabled him to get a splendid general view. The space surrounding this center area was covered with high installation, and the different states and territories being allowed to put up such installation as best suited their needs. The different states and territories that participated made extensive preparations in the way of putting large quantities of fruit in cold storage in St. Louis and elsewhere, sufficient in all cases to enable them to keep up a continuous fruit exhibit until the crop of 1904 was avail- able for exhibit purposes. REMAEKABLE APPLE DISPLAY. The fruit exhibit for the early part of the season was necessarily largely an apple exhibit, because other fruits are not so successfully ^^ ^ X 3 •4J P O 02 s ^ ® ^ +:> III N m ^ c3 m • fH bS) J3 a o3 -M c3 -(J 0) 0! m o ^ ri3 P 0!2 CS =4H >T, ^ o h( • »H n fl aj 03 3 '3 S •l-t p 03 © Of ^ rA n ^ O rt p. ■r; 'cS bjo '^ > o 1 — 1 ^ o OJ 3 be r^ -M OJ 0) 0) J 03 -(J 3 ja O ^1 0) J2 o < 1 A 03 a m 1-^ 03 t3 -q C15 +^ EH iH '^-l hI 3 p o t3^ !T 03 a '^, M rt 03 o O O 0) -a s > ITl bc r^ '5 o =4-1 O ^^ Hi rP ft ^^ <« -*^ .^ 'n So -+-I o cS o >^ 02 "^ OJ cti oj p: ^ IJI > ;:; o 'nn rH O q;i (^ w c -2^ CS s o « (D — 1 ' Ul ^ b I^ , r5 S-^ ^ IK --^ r— ^S^2 0) ^ T-i en fH fa bc^ S "^ H '^ ;ii fcJO n- W2 F^ _Q CO ^^S 1 ^ ^ -^ M 2 '-g .2 jC CH "^ 1-1 ?, _, , EH o br: .rt ^- rc ^ SU s « OJJ ■„ ci o S -1^ n3 "^ b— f Cti r=5 ^ cc •"^I^- ft - ^ 'oo +j ° CO O) o £•- O ■» o -^^ ^ ^ js ^ S i* +- g fl f3 fl 02 -*-^ O iZ| O O . o • fl CO «5 fl if S fl 0) fe aj fl P M a ^, & o ^.2 " r5 03 Ol o^:^ a o ■rH 0) m ^ fcj 0) n ft=H 1 t^ o 1 -t-> (T> M 'd 5^ fl 05 o Hi a M 0) M Hsa < "ri cv! 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'"3d ce o3 03 03 QJ t>i 03 c 03 cj fi^ 03 > xri ^ ^ 03 03 73 ^ rO j-l o +i rH • t-i rH C^ rt '3 w t>- P ^ >^ -ij Qi G^ r^ j^ & O o '^ o -1^ =fH d w o P. ce 1 03 1:3 S 03 03 0: <1 CO 03 O & P ^ 03 02 E- s ^ H CS o ^• ^ ^ P3 03 CD O t <^ ' ' O cS ,'^ M ^ 03 O 03 s H S o M 03 ^ k^ 03 m 03 -|j w ^ o3 ^ tc EH to ^ p < o3 4-^ ^ ^ ^ 03 03 le -^ £ ^ , ® ='i 2 s^ t» CO tK .rH 03 -1^ o ;: o fl o &c ci O HD <» be a, 03 ^ OJ ^ q3 tu 0) .r° « « o fH O rt S >^ P^ qn OJ p a; "o c ts l-H a> r/j p O H fi^ EH p: 3 C5 2 p^ Iz;^ r> M H -M R w ^- r^ SI c6 0^ a> ■3 OJ ^ ^ J,' Department op Social Economy 289 ment exhibit was apart from the other displays of the department, and was installed in the buildings along the Model Street. For this reason the exhibit of the economic resources and industrial organization (Group 130) of the States and cities which exhibited in the Model Street were removed from the Education building. KEGULATION OF INDUSTRY AND LABOR. The exhibit of the first ten groups in the Social Economy section, which concerned the regulation of industry and labor, including factory inspec- tion and mine inspection, the organization of employers and employed, wage systems, profit sharing, co-operation, banking, insurance, tenement house commissions,^ legal regulation of liquor traffic, and general better- ment movements, was necessarily statistical and literary in character, and did not appeal particularly to the general public. The presentation of material exhibited was necessarily by charts, photographs, printed matter and models, and was made purely with the intention of appealing to scientists and the persons particularly inter- ested in the development of the subject. Among the most important ex- hibits installed in the section of Social Economy proper was a wonderful compilation of general insurance statistics by insurance experts; the work of the Tenement House commission of New York City ; the historical exhibit of one of the oldest banks in the United States ; the excise regula- tions of some of the more important States ; the most improved methods of protection of workers in factories and mines; the social work of the Salvation Army; the industrial and betterment work of such firms as the N. 0. Nelson Manufacturing Company, the Heinz Company, and the National Cash Eegister Company, and a collective exhibit of the institu- tional work of the Catholic Church. CHARITIES AND CORRECTION. This section was in charge of a special superintendent, Mr. A. E. Pope, and an advisory committee, appointed from the National Confer- ence of Charities and Correction consisting of Charles R. Henderson, Chicago; Jeffrey E. Brackett, Baltimore; Eobert W. de Forest, New York; Ernest J.. Bicknell, Chicago; Hastings H. Hart, Chicago; Mary E. Perry, St. Louis. The entire field of public care of the destitute, delinquent and defect- ive was carefully subdivided, and the exhibits were strictly classified 290 Department of Social Economy thereunder. There were included under this section not only public care and relief of the needy and destitute, but hospitals, dispensaries, treat- ment of the insane, feeble-minded and epileptic, treatment and identifica- tion of criminals, and supervisory and educational movements for the improvement of the various classes. Owing to the nature of the display and the limited amount of space, exhibits in this section were collective. For example, exhibits from the prisons of the world were placed side by side instead of being arranged according to locality. In a similar manner exhibits from hospitals, asylums for the insane, child-saving institutions, etc., were grouped together. Visitors gained a more intelligent concep- tion of the exhibit as a whole by this method, and were better able to ap- preciate the merits of the different systems. IMPROVED CHARITABLE AND REFORMATORY INSTITUTIONS. Prominent among the exhibits installed in this group were models of the most improved hospitals and institutions for the insane, feeble-minded and epileptic ; model of the Colony for Epileptics at Sonyea ; model of the Federal Prison in Mexico, considered to be the finest built jail in the world, and a model jail in working operation. Under this group was also installed the collective exhibit made under the auspices of the Inter- national Association of Chiefs of Police. The Bureau of Identification at Washington, illustrating both the Bertillon and English finger-print systems, was transferred to the building, and placed at the service of the detective force of the exposition in keeping the grounds clear of crooks and criminals. There was also shown under the hospital class a pathological exhibit, collected from the various hospitals of the country, and tracing the effect of the various diseases upon the body. This exhibit was made under the auspices of the American Medical Association, and was studied in con- junction with the model hospital rooms, the apparatus installed, for lack of room, being placed in the Liberal Arts building. RURAL AND MUNICIPAL HYGIENE. In no subject during the last three decades have civilized countries been so interested, or paid so much attention as to rural and municipal hygiene. The possibility of preventing disease has been made plainly apparent, and it has come to be considered a public duty to provide every possible means for such prevention, as well as to provide for curative Department of Social Economy 291 processes after the disease has become established. Eecognizing the value of having at the exposition the latest discoveries and scientific methods for protecting public health, more than a year before the opening date, the subject was placed in the hands of one of the most noted specialists in the country, Dr. J. N. Hurty. A MODERN HYGIENE LABORATORY IN OPERATION. In addition to a general statistical and literary exhibit on the best methods of combating and preventing the spread of disease, there was displayed a modern, completely equipped, hygiene laboratory, in work- ing operation. In it all manner of actual chemical and bacteriological examinations were continually conducted, such as are required in modern disease-prevention work. Arrangements were made with the health au- thorities of cities, towns and country within five or six hours reach of St. Louis, to send in samples of blood for malaria and typhoid tests, material for pneumonia and tuberculosis tests, and waters for chemical and bac- teriological examination, also food and drugs for chemical analysis. In addition to notification of results to the senders of specimens, bulletins were issued for the inspection of visitors. This laboratory and its practi- cal work were valuable in showing to all officials and other citizens how necessary such an institution is, if preventable diseases are to be efficiently opposed. Foreign and home boards of health were fully represented, and models and plans exhibited of emergency hospitals, sanitary dwellings and build- ings, garbage collection and disposal, ventilation, lighting and heating of schoolhouses, theaters, churches, etc., railway sanitation, and disposal of the dead. FOREIGN PARTICIPATION. England, France, Germany, Russia, Italy and Mexico made the prin- cipal exhibits from among the foreign nations. The exhibit of France had the special oversight of M. Jules Siegfried, and dealt with all the groups of the department. The exhibit of Germany was particularly thorough in public hygiene and in public institutions. THE MODEL STREET AT THE FAIR. Perhaps no feature of the exposition was more exploited in the public press than the Model Street. It has seemed to strike a popular response and to evince the great interest which the ci«tizens of the country, both 292 Department of Social Economy individually and as municipal officers, are taking in the subject of Munici- pal Im]Drovement. KesjDonding to this general interest, the management provided an exhibit which comprised all the latest and best features of municipal economy. The display was practical to the letter, and of the greatest value to municipal councils and boards in search of the latest ideas for street and park improvements. The work of laying out the Model Street, along which the buildings were erected, was in the hands of the Engineering Department. The exhibit had a double character : First, it created a practical, suggestive exposition of street equipment and city arrangement, in which every fea- ture was brought out with reference to its relation to the community, its fitness and its beauty. Second, it was a comparative exhibit by municipalities, in which the twenty-five leading cities of the United States participated by the con- tribution of exhibits illustrating some particular phase of their municipal development. There v/as also presented a commercial exhibit, where in- dividual exhibitors presented their products, in competition for awards, in the usual way. - The street was 1,200 feet long, and immediately in front of the main (Lindell) entrance to the exposition. It was approximately four city blocks in length, with a public square in the center, and buildings along both sides of the street. The roadway in the center was 42 feet wide, with grass lawns on either side between the roadway and the sidewalks. PAVING AND PARKING. The paving, the parking, and the entire equipment of this street were worked out according to the best approved methods, no matter from what part of the world obtained, the object being to illustrate the highest ideals that have been realized along particular lines by the most advanced cities in the world. For example, the paving represented the modern, improved material used in good street making ; one section was made of asphalt, an- other of vitrified brick, another of wooden blocks, treated by the latest preserving processes, etc. Several methods of curbing were used. Close to either end of the street were two restaurants, each occupying a space of 128x112 feet. The hospital, day nursery, model library build- ing, model school erected by the Missouri Commission, municipal museum erected by St. Paul and Minneapolis, casino by Kansas City, park shelter by Boston, similar buildings by Buffalo and San Francisco, and the Depaetment of Social Economy 29S model railroad station presented by the city of Atlanta, Ga., all held places on the Model thoroughfare. The day nursery cost $20,000 and was under the direction of the Board of Lady Managers. AN" OBJECT LESSON IN MODERN CITY BTJILDINGS. The purpose of the Municipal Improvement Exhibit was to furnish an object lesson in modem city building, and to impress the visitor with an attractive civic picture. The visitor entering at the main gates, or descending from the intramural railway, passed through the railway station, which was the official entrance to the street. This depot, built by the city of Atlanta, Ga., was a moditication of the new $1,000,000 pas- senger station of the Southeastern metropolis. While neither a miniature nor an exact reproduction of the Atlanta depot, the building reproduced the most striking features of the original, and was strongly reminiscent of it in composition and detail. Passing through the station, the visitor encountered a spacious square, large enough to provide for the traffic which always accumulates at such a point, while beyond was the town hall, the central and most monu- mental building in the composition. Before the town hall rose the Civic Pride monument, designed by J. Massey Rhind, the New York sculptor, since engaged upon a fountain for the German Emperor and a statue for Andrew Carnegie. The monument facing a fountain and basin of water filled with aquatic plants, represented order out of chaos, and the civic virtues. From the square the main street of the exhibit extended off to the right and left, following a gentle curve to conform with the contour of the exposition buildings. All buildings were located along this thor- oughfare. An exhaustive exhibit of street fixtures, lamp posts, drinking fountains, kiosks, fire plugs, etc., and a septic tank in operation were shown along the street, and in the park adjoining the town hall many exhibits from European cities were installed. There were also an exhibi- tion of tree planting, with special reference to providing a sufficiency of water and air about the roots. This was especially interesting in view of the fact that great difficulties are met with in every city in the effort to induce shade trees to grow upon narrow road lawns. In the case of cities that did not put up buildings, space for exhibits was provided in the Arcade building, the arrangement of which was such that a city occupied one or more sections according to the extent of the 294 Department of Social Economy exhibit that was made. The foreign indoor exhibits were housed in the town hall. AMEEICAN LEAGUE OF CIVIC IMPROVEMENT. The original advocate of a municipal exhibit at the exposition, and its strong supporter in all stages of development, was the American League for Civic Improvement, whose headquarters are in Chicago. The architectural details of the section were under the direction of Mr. Albert Kelsey, of Philadelphia, Superintendent of the Municipal Improvement section. Mr. Kelsey drew the plans for many of the build- ings erected on the Street. His plan, so ably conceived and executed, was to make each of the diverse buildings conform to a civic scheme, and at the same time not to detract from their individuality ; to assemble as many diverse units of city-making as possible, and also to form a civic center where the best of the object lessons were to be harmoniously exhibited in their relation to architectural surroundings. This is the first time in the history of international expositions that the special feature, in a separate space, of outdoor municipal exhibits was undertaken. The rapid advance and development of American cities within the past decade, and the great interest which is now being mani- fested by municipalities and the general public in the subject of city beautifying, encouraged the exposition authorities to believe that an ob- ject lesson, suggestive and practical, would meet a popular demand in this country, and be of great practical interest ; and this belief was fully sustained by the results. The problems dealt with were those certain to exist in the home town of every visitor, and the exhibits suggested what is most needful in the improvement of municipalities, whether large or small. CHAPTER XXI. FILIPINOS AT THE FAIR Old Manila and Manila Architecture — The Red Man and the Brown Man Contrasted — Colony of One Thousand Filipinos — $1,000,000 Required for the Exhibit — ^Wild Igor- rotes on the Filipino Reservation — The Igorrote as Head-Hunter and Dog-Eater — Physical Development and Fever Treatment — Divided Skirt an Igorrote Invention- Gets "Crazy Mad" — First Conquered by Americans — Death Followed by House Wrecking — Debit and Credit Account of Heads — Said to be Ethiopian Immigrants — The Primer Class of Igorrotes — The Dog to the Rescue — Straw Men as Devil Chasers — Disease Demon Driven Away by Dog Offering — The Dog Dance Before the Feast — Sliced Bananas and Stewed Dog. OK the first time since the Philippine archipelago passed into the possession of the United States an opportunity was afforded the American public to study the strange people of the distant islands, their habits, customs and products at the Louisiana Purchase Exposition at St. Louis. It may even be said that many found their first opportunity there to get a comprehensive idea of the exact location, extent and character of the great island group. This information was afforded through study of an enormous circular map in plaster relief built upon the surface of the ground and encircled by a raised promenade from which a bird's-eye view of that portion of the Pacific could be enjoyed. In view of the depth of interest attaching to this new American pos- session it was not remarkable that all who visited the fair at once headed for the Philippine section. All were well repaid for their visit. OLD MANILA AND MANILA AKCHITECTURE. The little-known, non-Christian tribes were the magnets which drew them more than anything else. The nipa buildings and the specimens of Manila architecture in the central group of structures were viewed with interest, but the crowds lingered longest about the Cuartel and the bamboo stockades inclosing the native villages. Most of the visitors approached the Philippines from the main expo- sition. They crossed the B,ridge of Spain, a reproduction of the old struc- 295 296 Filipinos at the Fair ture of many spans over tlie Pasig river at Manila, which spanned Arrow- head lake at its widest point. The Walled City confronted them frowningly at the further side, a reproduction of Old Manila, whose encircling walls were built three hun- dred years ago. Behind the great gates was displayed a war exhibit. THE RED MAN AND THE BROWN MAN CONTRASTED. The red man of America and the brown man of Oceanica, both races the wards of Uncle Sam, both including many tribes, were almost side by side, each on a forty-acre tract. One pathetic difference between the red man and the brown was brought out at this twin exhibition, and that is the Indian is of a disappearing race, while the Filipino appears to be just on the eve of a substantial and lasting development. Each of these vast exhibits — large enough to form a separate exposi- tion—was made officially. The United States government appropriated money for the Indian display and was in direct charge thereof. The Filipino showing was made by the Insular Government of the Philippine Islands. Each was a part of the general exposition and all visitors to the world's fair were admitted free to these reservations. COLONY OF ONE THOUSAND FILIPINOS. The Filipino tract contained more than a score of large buildings and a number of small ones, the latter representing the types of houses in which the natives live. These houses were built by Filipinos, of native materials, bamboo, nipa and other island products. The larger buildings included structures with names like those of the exhibit palaces in the main exposition— Agriculture, Education, Ethnology, etc. More than cne thousand natives of the islands lived in this Filipino reservation. The children attended school in a schoolhouse built for them. The elders made mats and hats, conducted shops and carried on their ordinary lines of business. "Wild tribesmen lived in tree-built houses and in huts built on stilts in the lake. Several hundred soldiers from native regiments were quar- tered in barracks within the walled city of Manila, rebuilt in St. Louis, to which three bridges led, spanning the Laguna de Bay as at home. Eed and brown, these two "forties" were of surpassing interest to those who saw things merely for curiosity and amusement as well as to those who attended the fair to learn. Filipinos at the Fair 297 $1,000,000' eequiked for the exhibit. Some idea of the extent of the Philippine exhibit may be gathered from the following excerpt from an official bulletin by the government Bureau of Insular Affairs, showing that about $1,000,000 was necessary to defray the expense of this one feature before the opening of the fair. "It was originally assumed that the cost of collecting exhibits, as- sembling in Manila and shipment to the United States would be so great that it would require an appropriation of $500,000 from Philippine reve- nues. An agreement was made with the exposition company that when such amount was appropriated by the Philippine Commission the world 's fair management would allot $200,000 from their funds to prepare the grounds and buildings for the reception of these exhibits coming from Manila. "It was hoped that the latter amount would be adequate for this pur- pose. However, owing to the unanticipated prices and demands of labor, as well as the cost of material and the severe winter in St. Louis, which has retarded the work, this cost will- be exceeded in the amount of $200,- 000. During the first part of this month the Philippine Commission appro- priated this additional amount." WILD IGOEROTES OF THE FILIPINO RESERVATION. The United States has no other wards so little known as the wild Igorrotes, some of whom were shown at the Filipino Keservation. Of these warlike little primitives of the mountains and forests a great deal has been heard since American interest was directed to the Philip- pines, but not much was certainly known until the Philippines Commis- sion m^ade its report to the President of the United States. It has been said that the Igorrotes are cannibals and head-hunters, and that they are to the Philippines today what the wild Kiowas of Kan- sas and Nebraska were to the United States sixty years ago— a warlike, savage people preying upon whomsoever happened their way. The investigation made by the Philippines Commission enabled us to know that the Igorrote, while black indeed, is not so black as he has been painted. He has been proven innocent of the charge of cannibalism. Likewise has he been found guiltless of that free-heartedness and nomadic life which m.ade the American plains Indian the terror to the West in early days. 298 Filipinos at the Fair the igorkote as head-hunter and dog-eater. The Igorrote stands indicted upon but one grave count— liis head- hunting. But even this offense has the extenuation of being discriminate. The Igorrote only takes the heads of his enemies. Upon his arrival at St. Louis, the Igorrote attracted more attention than ail the other primitive people at the fair. Not because of his head- hunting propensity was he enabled to achieve this foreign fame, but be- cause he insisted upon eating dogs. So, head-hunter and dog-eater that he is, the Igorrote is not the least interesting of those races which came to the big fair to resume after long lapse of years the linguistic chorus of Babel. THE IGORROTES IN BRIEF. The Igorrotes may be briefly summed up and analysed as follows : They are black and all smoke pipes. They are very warlike mountaineers and hunt with blow guns. They eat with their fingers. They have curly, kinky hair, and are afraid of thunder. They dislike to be questioned. Vanity is their dominant vice. They regard Americans as giants, although they are the largest of the Filipinos. Cock fighting is their chief amusement. The mountains of Northern Luzon are full of them. They cultivate sugar cane, rice and sweet potatoes. They are called a fine-looking race for the tropics. The women wear wooden hair combs, made of bamboo. They build quaint little huts in the coffee thickets. The men dance a great deal, but the women never do. They have flat noses, thick lips and high cheek bones. The American soldiers early called them ^'the black hornets. ' ' While ordinarily very well built, they are not a graceful people. The women are fond of beads and wear great quantities of them. They use the bow and arrow, and it is their principal weapon in warfare. They love music, but they have only the simplest of reed instruments. They wear their hair long and the men seldom have any hair on the face. They are eager gamblers, and any sort of a game of chance appeals to them. Their huts are built bee-hive fashion, and they creep into them on all fours. The women are said to be very domestic, even though they do lead a gypsy-like life. They are fatalists, and are not much given to reasoning. They are more remote from civilization than any of the other natives of the Philippines. Filipinos at the Fair 299 MARITAL PARTICULARS. Divorce is quite common among tliem. When a wife and husband sep- arate they return the dowry. Their bridal couples spend their honeymoon in the mountain wilds before establishing a home. They sleep under the trees until five suns have passed, in order that they may relish the com- forts of their home when they move into it. There is no marriage cere- mony among the wild Igorrotes beyond the exchange of a handful of rice between bride and groom. They chew betel nut much as Americans chew tobacco. In their native land they go almost naked, wearing only a clout. They are fond of bathing and swimming, but are not especially clean. They have little con- fidence in white people, and the Spaniards could never gain their confi- dence. PHYSICAL DEVELOPMENT AND FEVER TREATMENT. The women are well developed, being without that sickly look so common among Filipino women. They treat fever by walking into cold water and standing there, sometimes with the water up to the neck. Pas- sion is seldom expressed in their features, and you cannot tell that an Igorrote is angry by looking at him. The women carry water and wood and almost all other burdens upon their heads. They are expert at balancing such burdens. They are fond of festivals, and oftentimes continue them through days and nights, the chief features being fire and noise. Paternal love is one of their ruling sentiments, and both the father and mother exercise a tender care over the little ones. The Igorrote men are almost all hunters in their native mountains. The women do the housework and cultivate the little gardens. They are elaborate tattooers, and Igorrote tattooing is only surpassed in design and extent by that of the natives of New Zealand. They wander from place to place in the forests and mountains, and among the wild Igorrotes there are no towns or regularly-located villages. DIVIDED SKIRT AN IGORROTE INVENTION. The divided skirt is an original invention with the Igorrote women, who frequently wear them when they come down from the mountains into the towns. 300 Filipinos at the Fair They are not as black as the Negroes of the African interior, but they are much darker than any of the other Filipinos. They name their children for the place in which they are born, or for some bird or snake, or whatever is in mind at the time. The Igorrotes never cut their hair behind, or, that is, they never do it when they are at home. They permit it to grow as long as it will, and it curls and kinks into quite a hard, bushy mass. They take good care of their sick, but have no regular medicines, and sometimes make up mixtures which probably kill the patient quicker than the germs of disease could hope to dispatch him. Indolence is the curse of the race. The men do little else than follow the chase, and they do not do this when there is anything to eat in the house. Lying around in the shade is their chief pastime. GETS "CEAZY MAD", AND FIEST CONQUERED BY AMERICANS. An Igorrote has little capacity for assimilating civilization, and he is one of the natives set down by the Philippines Commission as being not only incapable of self-government, but needing a firm hand to rule him. The Igorrote has a violent temper. When he is aroused, he gets what Americans would call ' ' crazy mad. ' ' At such times he will commit atro- cious crimes, and they have been known to turn upon their own households with great fury. Some of the Igorrotes are tree-dwellers, a form of habitat made neces- sary by the frequent raids of their enemies. The tree-dweller met this exigency just as the American cliff-dweller did— by building his house where it is inaccessible. The United States troops were the first to conquer the Igorrotes. The Spaniards sent many expeditions against them, but they were never sub- jugated until the American followed them into the brush and whipped them into submission. Family feuds are common among them. Oftentimes these feuds result in many deaths, for the Igorrote is revengeful and he does not hesitate to lay in the bushes with his bolo and do unto others such evil as they have done unto him and his. The Igorrotes are polygamists, but no man has more than one real wife. The others are his servants, and neither they nor their children have any of the privileges extended to that inner circle of the household, whose center is the recognized wife. Filipinos at the Fate 301 death folloyv^ed by house-wrecking. The death of an Igorrote is followed by a great clamor in the house. All the members of the family set up a great shrieking and crying, and oftentimes the men take out their bolos and hack right and left at the furniture and the walls of the house. An Igorrote is considered in disrepute if it is known that his enemies have taken more of the heads of his people or family than he has taken in return. They will tolerate a '^tie score," as we would call it in America, but it is a disgrace to be a head or so behind. The Igorrotes are for the most part pagans, and it is only a small element of them that have embraced Christianity through the Catholic Church. It is said that the first members of a Filipino tribe baptized were Igorrotes who went to an exposition at Madrid in 1887. There is no lovelier wilderness than that in which the Igorrotes have their homes in the mountains of Northern Luzon. Like the dream houses of fairies are their queer little huts, in the close embrace of the coffee trees and that great luxuriance of vegetation which is found in those tropi- cal isles. DEBIT AND CREDIT ACCOUNT OF HEADS. Head-hunting is an old custom with the Igorrotes, as it is with others of the black races of the Solomon Islands, Borneo and other isles of Oceanica. The Igorrotes keep a regular debit and credit account of heads, and valor is measured by the number of these possessed by each warrior of the tribe. They keep the heads of their enemies displayed before their huts, in order that none be either under or over-estimated as a warrior. If an Igorrote is too unskillful in battle or too timid to fare forth and take the heads of his enemies, he is despised by his fellows and he is treated with contempt. HEADS MEASURE VALOR. The chiefs are selected according to their fitness to lead, just as chiefs were chosen by the American Indians. As the Indians followed that one of their number who displayed at his tepee the greatest number of his enemies' scalps, so the Igorrotes follow him whose hut is decorated with the greatest number of the heads of his foes. Young men seeking brides amor!^' the I<^orrotes must go to the homes 302 Filipinos at the Fair of tlie girls and reside there for a certain time, in order that the girl's people may determine by close association whether the proposed alliance is desirable. During this period the youth works for the girl's father without pay. A young Igorrote warrior cannot hope to have a bride until he has proven his valor by taking the heads of some of his enemies. Sometimes a girl 's father will give his daughter to a suitor who can show but a single enemy 's head, but this is not often the case, and if it is done the people of the tribe know by that sign that the father himself is not much of a head harvester and has no wish to encourage that particular proof of personal valor. Igorrote funerals are oftentimes very elaborate. The relatives and friends of the deceased all gather upon a certain day, and each brings a piece of game or some other food. This food is placed inside a big canoe- like piece of bark taken from a tree, and is sewed within it. The body of the dead is similarly sewed in another piece of bark, and these are buried together, in order that the journey into death may not be accom- panied by hunger. IGOEROTES AND INDIANS AS DOG-EATEKS. The Igorrotes have always been dog-eaters, and they consider it not at all strange that they should eat such food. In fact, they are but one of many primitive people who relish the dog at table. The American In- dians were in many instances dog-eaters. When Father Jacques Mar- quette descended the Mississippi river in 1673 the Indian chiefs consid- ered that they were showing him the highest honor within their power when they set before him and his men a nicely-baked dog. Because they eat dog flesh the Igorrotes aroused the Woman's Hu- mane Society to protest, but they insist on receiving their favorite food while at the fair. Stray canines in the vicinity of their camp were always in danger of sudden death. AN IGORROTE-CHINESE TRIBE. The Igorrotes are regarded as being, for the most part, a pure-blooded negro race, though there are tribes of them which have intermarried with less pronounced races and have in this way lost much of their racial dis- tinctiveness. This is particularly true of a tribe of them which long ago affiliated with a band of Chinese pirates and who have now become Igor- Filipinos at the Fair 303 rote-Chinese. They were for a long time more dreaded even than the full-blooded Igorrotes, for, retaining the fearfulness and fighting qualities of the Igorrote, they acquired by the alliance the craftiness of the Mon- golian. said to be ETHIOPIAN IMMIGRANTS. The Igorrotes are an unthinking people, and are without any of those native wits and mental strengths which enable some primitive people to know considerable of their ancestors, even though the race is without historians or anything better than traditions. Consequently, the Igor- rotes have no idea when their forefathers landed upon the Philippines, or whence or why they came. The prevalent story of their original ap- pearance there is that in the year 1529 B. C, the tyrannical reign of the fierce Cambises caused a great exodus out of Ethiopia, and that a portion of these African blacks put to sea and landed upon the Philippines. This same story is told of the coming of the Negritos, another tribe on the islands. The Igorrotes know nothing at all of it, and have not even a cur- rent legend to cover their coming. MORE EXCITING THAN A DOG-FEAST. Miss Lenora P. Vandaveer of 3715 North Ninth Street, St. Louis, undertook to teach the young Igorrote idea how to shoot. She succeeded so well at the very outset that she soon had half a hun- dred of the little savages able to " see a cat ' ' in English and familiar with what cow, and horse, and apple, and foot, and fan, and particularly dog, sound like in the language of their assimilators. Miss Vandaveer was the stenographer of Dr. T. K. Hunt^ in charge of the Igorrotes. Finding that her duties in that capacity did not occupy all of her time, she set about organizing this class in the English language. She had wanted to teach the little brown people ever since their assim- ilation and would have gone to the islands where there was a call for school teachers if her father would have permitted her. Her assignment to duties at the Cuertel offered just the opportunity she wanted. When it became known that all Igorrotes and members of the other tribes who wished could join the first Filipino ABC class in America, there was a rush of Igorrotes, big and little. Eesponse to an announce- ment of a dog-feast could not have been with greater alacrity. 304 FiLTPiisros at the Fa.ir THE PEIMER CLASS OP IGOEEOTES. Of tlie fifty who came, clamoring to be shown, only one or two could speak a few words of English. In that respect the prospect was about as unpromising as possible, but the proposition before Miss Vandaveer was simple in that she had only to organize one class. Old and young were on the same plane and they were all organized in a primer class. For the first lesson Miss Vandaveer printed the letters of the alphabet on pieces of cardboard. The pupils crowded eagerly around her, and as she pointed at the characters and pronounced them, the students re- peated them after her with considerable exactness. THE DOG TO THE EESCUE. Then she spelled out "I s-e-e a c-a-t." She had the scholars spell the words after her and then speak the sentence. The next thing was to clinch the thing by making the meaning clear. That was ^here she struck a stump. There wasn 't a cat about the place. She made eloquent attempts to convey to them what c-a-t, cat, meant, but they only shook their heads and said something which was apparently the equivalent of '^come again." Then the teacher had an inspiration. She switched to dog. The sen- tence was changed to " I see a dog. ' ^ They repeated it after her and she pointed at a bow-wow tied to a banister. It was then that the scholars saw a great light. They were so delighted with the sound of the new name for their favorite dish, that they chattered about it for five minutes. Miss Vandaveer then caused them to ''see" various other things in English, things which could be pointed to and identified with the sounds. To conclude the lesson she gave each of them cardboards on which the alphabet was printed and told them to practice on the letters until the next morning. Their enthusiasm was so great that throughout the day every person visiting the Quartet, who wore United States clothing and appeared to know the alphabet, was impressed into service and pre- vailed upon to drill a savage in the rudiments of the language. Miss Vandaveer was delighted with her scholars. ' ' They are keen to learn, ' ' she declared. BUILDING THEIE GEASS-EOOPED HUTS. It was an interesting sight to witness the savage islanders constructing their huts upon their arrival at the fair. The Igorrote band worked faith- A NATIVE OF THE PHILIPPINES AT THE FAIR— This is the style of dress of the Igorrote people of our new possessions. They were brought to the fair by the United States Government and are shown in their native costume. The City of St. Louis provided these people with twenty dogs a day as their ration of meat. A FILIPINO BELLE — This young woman represents the higher type of islanders who have recently come under the American flag. She is shown standing before the assembly hall in the Philippine section. Personal charm and intelligence are possessed by Filipinos of this type. MOEO CHIEF POSING AT THE FAIR— Eaised aloft by this Moro warrior is the favorite native weapon, a sword with a narrow blade shaped like a tongue of flame. A thrust from this odd weapon, with its keen double edges, inflicts a terrible wound that usually closes when the blade is withdrawn. DOGS TO FEED THE IGOEROTES — As this old man approached the Philippine sec- tion to sell his two pets to the Igorrotes for food, he was made a victim of. the "snap shot." He was only one of many who parted with old canine friends in exchange for money, sadly needed and gladly paid by the hungry Islanders. BUSY FILIPINO CAEPENTEKS — One of the most interesting sights of the coji- struction period of the Louisiana Purchase Exposition was afforded by the Filipino work- men. Quick, alert and with cat-like tread, these dark-hued visitors proved wonders in accomplishing work with their strange tools and stranger building material. DINNER TIME AT THE FAIR — Negrotes were summoned to their meals through the use of a ''musical instrument" not unlike the tom-toms to he heard at the lunch rooms of most railroad stations. Aside from its mission as a dinner bell the gong en- joyed great popularity among the Negrotes as a means of entertainment. Filipinos at the Faik 313 fully— faithfully for Igorrotes— and completed two grass-roofed huts a big one and a little one, in as many days. All the work on each was done by the savages. Woodwork for all the huts had been brought along, but parts had been lost on the way, and it was necessary to hew timbers anew. When the framework had been set and the timbers all thonged together, the roofing was begun and this was turned into a frolic. Over near the entrance to the stockade the women were reveling in a great mound of native grass, tieing it into wisps and chanting wierd songs a's they worked. The wi-sps were made into sheaves and half-clad boys carried them on poles across the ravine to the men who were building the houses. Several worked on the roof, tying the wisps to the bamboo strips. The others hurled the wisps up, with unerring aim, and the men on the roof caught them with a good deal of skill. The Igorrotes are great resters. They work awhile and then sit down and smoke and rest -twice as long. But there were so many of them at this particular task that a good deal of progress was made at that. Whether working or resting they talked a great deal. STEAW-MEN AS DEVIL-CHASEES. When the houses were completed devil-chasers were suspended on slender bamboos at the apex of the roofs to scare evil spirits away. These were small, crude figures of men, made of straw. With a good deal less fuss and a good deal more success the Tingannes worked quietly away at their bamboo house on stilts, back by the bamboo stockade. DISEASE DEMON DRIVEN AWAY BY DOG OFFERING. The Disease Demon was driven from the Igorrote village at the world's fair soon after their arrival with a double-barreled caneo. Dangusan, a Suyoc Igorrote woman, had been sick for several days in one of the grass huts of the Suyocs. The rest were beginning to get worried about her, and Byungsin, chief of the Suyocs, was petitioned to do something. Byungsin decided that the occasion called for a united effort on the part of both the Suyocs and the Bontocs. The Suyocs do not eat dog, but the Bontocs consider no caneo complete without dog. It was well known that the Bontocs were running short of dogs. The 314 Filipinos at the Fair Suyocs had one which was fairly fat, and for which they had no particu- lar need. The chief had a happy thought. He would make an offering of dog to the Bontocs, and thus get them to help in an assault on the disease demon. CAELO IS SACEIFICED. The dog was killed, and Chief Byungsin made passes over the remains and chanted weirdly, all the rest of the Suyocs joining in the chorus. When the deceased was ready to be singed, the chief did something which none of the white spectators understood. As if in anger, he seized dead Carlo by the feet and flung him as far as possible down the hillside, at the same time saying something which sounded like ' ' dog on it. ' ' But this seemed to be only a part of the hocus-pocus, and after a moment two of the Suyocs went down the hill, gathered Carlo up and brought him back to the fire, and his hair was artistically singed off. The animal was then roasted and carried to the Bontocs. Both branches of the tribe then had simultaneous caneos, the Suyocs dining on chickens as the Bontocs consumed the dog ; and all made valiant assaults on the Demon Disease with approved incantations. EEJOICING OVEE EECOVEEED PATIENT. When the ceremony was over Dangusan said she felt a good deal bet- ter, and by noon she was able to sit up. As soon as it became certain that the Spirit of Disease had been driven beyond the stockade, a caneo of thanksgiving was held by the Suyocs. For this a hog was slain. With the porker was purchased a little pig. When all was ready for the sacrifice, the Devil which is supposed to reside in every hog was driven by incantations into the little pig, and it was chased out of the village as fast as it could be made ,to run. Before the hog was killed a hen was brought forth and the chief took her in his hands and stroked her feathers for some time. This is a very important part of such proceedings. If she behaves nicely the caneo goes on. If the hen is a "kluck" and if she "hablamal" or talks bad, it is understood that the time is not propitious for the show to go on, and proceedings are temporarily suspended. EIEST OP MANY DOG FEASTS. It was a ' ' dog-on ' ' happy occasion for the Igorrotes when the first of a continuous series of dog-feasts was given at their camp. It was the most unusual feast that had ever been witnessed in St. Louis. Filipinos at the Fair 315 The yellow dogs— and there were three of them— received no mercy, and the Igorrotes ate the stewed canine as a hungry tramp would masti- cate a free lunch. The enthusiasm that attends a banquet at $10 a plate was small in comparison with the joy shown by the Igorrote. Every night for the pre- ceding two weeks he had gone to bed hearing the barking of the dogs, and was made ravenous by the knowledge that dogs were near. The Igorrote was ready for the performance of any desperate act whereby he might be able to realize on his fondest dreams— a genuine dog dinner, prepared according to the rules of old Luzon. A dance preceded and followed the dog dinner. Occasions of great joy are always marked by dancing in the home of the Igorrotes. The tribe was awakened at 8 o'clock in the morning and informed that there was something doing in the dog line. They were told that the dog would be served for dinner. THE DOG-DAISrCE BEFORE THE FEAST. The Igorrotes began the dog-dance. They danced in relays. ''Let joy be unconfined" was the slogan of the Igorrote, and in order that the noise should not cease, and that activity should not be interrupted, the Igorrotes danced in sections. When one division tired, other willing dancers took the places of those who had ''run down." And so the dancing continued until 11 o 'clock. At that hour a guard announced that the -dogs were ready for killing. The Igorrotes gave numerous wild whoops of joy. Like doomed men led to the scaffold, the coveted yellow dogs were led from their kennels and prepared for execu- tion. Knives were whetted and the Igorrotes again danced for joy. The dogs' bodies were thrown into the 16-inch kettles, which were purchased especially for the feast. DRAW LOTS FOR CHOICE DOG CUTS. A cracking fire was started under the kettles and the canines were stewed. Members of the tribe drew lots for the choice portions. There is no "white meat" in a dog feast, but there are choice portions, just the same. The ribs, it is said, are particularly palatable, and the livers, shoulders and sides are said to be fine eating— by the Igorrotes. Three pots were operated, and in each pot a dog was stewed, the fumes 316 Filipinos at the Fair from the boiling kettle fnrnishing an incentive for more dancing and more noise. The old men of the tribe took charge of the distribution, and on the bare grass, with no tablecloths, no napkins, nor dishes, the Igorrotes en- joyed their canine feast, and ate heartily. SLICED BANANAS AND STEWED DOG. While dog was the paramount feature on the Sunday menu of the Igorrote during his stay at the fair, other native delicacies were otfered to the hungry. Sliced bananas doesn't seem an appropriate accompani- ment to stewed dog, but the Igorrotes got it. Boiled rice with dog gravy was another item on the bill of fare, and the last number was stogies, which the Igorrotes are extremely fond of. So voracious were the Igorrotes in their appetite for dog that stray canines and even pets become commercial commodities, and went to the slaughter at prices ranging as high as $2 each. The teeth of the dogs were carefully preserved. They were polished and mounted and sold as souvenirs. The Igorrotes went into trade early on their arrival. They worked overtime grinding out Filipino pipes and mouth harps, which they ex- changed for United States cigarettes and coin. Every day crowds of far West Americans gathered around the Cuartel to get a look at their fellow citizens from the far East. The Igorrotes hung out of the second story windows and the Yankees stood back a little distance, and the wonder with which the latter viewed the Igorrotes is only equaled by the wonder with which the Igorrotes viewed their visitors. It did not take the Igorrotes long to discover that there was a market for anything Filipino among the people who gathered to gaze. They had nothing they could part with except small native pipes and smaller bamboo jewsharps. It' was easy to establish an understanding, and trading began. PREFEE TOBACCO TO MONEY. The Igorrotes were willing to accept money in exchange, but they much preferred cigarettes or tobacco in any other form. As between a nickel and a cigarette their choice was always the cigarette. In a vague way they understood that money was desirable, but they could not smoke it and they had no great opportunity to spend it. THE MOROS AND VISAYANS Annual Season of Human Sacrifice — Most Savage People on the Globe — Human Life Counts for Nothing — Sure Death to the Camera Fiend — Freed Moro Slave Made a Bride — Ocean Voyage as a Love Promoter — Praying Over an Engaged Couple — "Swell" Dressers of the Philippines — An Artist in Pants — New Products of Assimi- lation — Artistic, Linguistic and Musical Visayans — Fighting and Musical Scouts — Regular Members of the U. S. Army — Iron Constitutions and Disease-Proof — Their First Snow and Snowball Fight — Culture Shown by Philippine Ethnological Museum — Match Locks, Springfield Rifles and "Bluff" Guns — Native Swords, Hatchets and Execution Knives. EXT to the Igorrotes the Mores attracted greatest attention at the Filipino Reservation, because of the belief that they are blood- thirsty cannibals who offer up human sacrifices once a year. They are the most savage of the savages, and even at the world's fair were care- fully watched to prevent them from murdering anybody. The Lanao Moros are declared to be eaters of human flesh, and after a battle they enjoy a barbaric feast of the human beings they have slain or the prisoners they have captured. In their battles rather than be captured and roasted alive their enemies will kill themselves, it is asserted. ANNUAL SEASON OP HUMAN SACRIFICE, From about October 2 to 12 of every year they have their annual human sacrifice, as did the Aztecs of Cortez's day. Between these days each sultan, of whom there are thirty, sends a slave to the feast. The Moros build a fountain-shaped pyramid of rocks, under which is a fire. When the rocks are heated to a white heat the slaves are bound and^ thrown upon the burning stones, where they are roasted. When life is extinct and it is considered by the Moro chief that they are properly roasted, the bodies are taken out on bamboo sticks and then the savages thrust into the parched bodies individual sticks of bamboo and the feast begins. They are the only cannibals of the present day in the Philippines, 317 318 The Mokos and Visayans and despite tlie efforts of the War Department it is suspected they still offer up.human sacrifices and eat of human flesh. Desperate efforts have been made to abolish these barbaric feasts, but to no avail. MOST SAVAGE PEOPLE ON THE GLOBE. Of all the savages in the Philippines these Lanao Moros are the most vicious and bloodthirsty. They required watching every minute of the day and great care was exercised to see that visitors were properly warned of their danger when around them. "These fellows are the wildest and most savage people on the face of the globe to-day, ' ' said the official in charge of them, C. H. Wex, who was private secretary to Governor Ballard, and who talks their language like a native. ' ' I saw one of their human sacrifices and it was the blood- iest and most awe-inspiring sight I ever saw, and I trust that I shall never witness another. The slaves sent in by the sultans are fattened for the feast as we fatten cattle in the 'States for slaughter in the stockyards. This human offering has been handed down since the beginning of time, and the Spaniards made desperate efforts to break it up, but unsuccess- fully. ' ' The United States soldiers have tried, too, to break up the slaughter of the slaves, but to no avail, for it positively cannot be prohibited. At these barbaric feasts some 100,000 Moros gather, so you see that it is utterly out of the question for the army to prohibit them. HUMAN LIFE COUNTS FOE NOTHING. * ' Human life counts for positively nothing among these Lanao Moros. Murder is so common as to attract no attention. The sultan has the power of life or death, and so have the dattos, and anybody they want killed they simply order him killed. Among the natives they slaughter their enemies. The only way to deal with them is by their own way— that is, kill them. To imprison them is worse than useless.'* SUEE DEATH TO THE CAMEEA FIEND. Those who tried to get a snap-shot or a photograph of the Moros at the world's fair did so at their own risk. A sign conveying this information was suspended on the stockade about the Moro village, and displayed in a conspicuous place over the entrance. The Moeos and Visayans 319 This sign was decided upon for fear of some photographer being boloed by an angry Moro. Guards were instructed to notify liodakers and camera fiends that they should not snap the Moros, and if they did so and got into trouble they should not blame the United States Government, in whose care the Moros were. The Moros are M,ohammedans, and one of the tenets of their religion is against images, and they look upon photographs as images. You can't insult a Moro more than by trying to photograph him, and you're in luck if you're not chased off the earth if you try the kodak on him. FREED MOEO SLAVE MADE A BRIDE. It was an interesting event at the exi^osition when Coureygon Soungallaii, a beautiful slave girl of the Mandanao Moros, on the Phil- ippine reservation, was given her freedom in order that she might become a bride. Datta Asume, an official of the tribe, had fallen in love with her and wanted to make her his wife after the forms of the Mohammedan religion. Moro slaves cannot marry nor be given in marriage, but Moro sultans, or governors, have the power of liberating slaves and enabling them to marry. Datta Asume pleaded with Sultan Pitiilian with such effect that the sultan promised to make Coureygon free. The promise was as good as the fulfillment in that it removed the restraint which existed and the court- ship proceeded ardently, as between equals in Moro society. The wedding took place soon after the Moros were settled in their village on the shore of Arrowhead lake. OCEAN VOYAGE AS A LOVE PROMOTER. The ocean voyage from the Philippines to San Francisco was to blame for the love affair of Datta Asume and the pretty slave girl. At home, at Lake Lanao, the girl had never attracted his attention particu- larly. She had been like the other slave girls of the village. There were only eighty of them on the ship, and there were long days as the ship plowed the Pacific, and taking a new interest in the slaves which had been brought along, Datta Asume discovered that Coureygon was a girl of singular attractiveness. Her features were so fine, compared to those 320 ' The Moeos and Visayans of llie other slave girls, as to suggest that in her was a strain of the blood of a higher caste. Before the voyage had been ended Datta Asume had to admit to him- self that he was in love with the pretty slave girl. He knew that Sultan Pitiilian could free the girl if he would. He stood well in the eyes of the sultan and on the journey across the continent he took pains to further ingratiate himself in favor. At last he summoned courage to confess his love for the slave girl and ask the sultan to make her free. The consent was given, and Datta Asume hastened to tell Coureygon that she was to be his wife. LOVER EAGER EOE THE WEDDING. Datta Asume was impatient. He wanted the wedding bells to ring without delay. But the sultan pointed out that the forms of Moham- medanism and the tribal rites could not be carried out until they were in their own village, and Datta Asume reluctantly agreed to wait. When the wedding took place everybody within a mile of the Moro village knew something was doing. All night before the wedding day (he tom-toms sounded and the wedding guests feasted on roast chicken and rice at the hut of Datta Asume 's parents. Sultan Patiilian paid the freight. BRIDE AND GROOM SEPARATED. After the night's festivities, Asume and Coureygon separated and" for three days each remained in the hut of their respective parents. Rahaimuda Lumbayanguhai, the native Mohammedan priest, who was brought from the Philippines with them, visited each in turn and went through the traditional ceremonies. The second night there was a fiesta at the home of the bride. At the end of three days the ceremonies concluded with a tom-tom fest. The ensuing six days they were not allowed to see each other. Then each left the parental hut and the bride built a hut for her lord and master, who thereafter supplied the larder with ' ' chow. ' ' He had the assistance of a few slaves, which were donated by the sultan and by his father. The bride was 16 years old. It is not unusual for Moro girls to marry younger. The bridegroom was 22. The Moeos and Visayans 321 During the stay of the Moros at the fair a sultan took unto himself a wife— his ninetieth. PEAYING OVEE AN ENGAGED COUPLE, Every morning at sunrise these followers of Mohammed pray with their backs toward the sun until it is high in the heavens. At night they pray with their faces to the sun from the approach of sunset until dark. From prayer, on the occasion of this wedding, the whole colony of forty natives took their places at the banquet table, with fish and chicken as the chief articles of an extensive feast. The future fortune of the couple to be married was drunk in holy water, made sacred by the ashes of a prayer, written by the priest Rahaimuda Lumbayanguhai, and burned over the drinking urn at the feast. When all had been satis- fied the engaged couple were seated in the center of the room and the other natives armed with bolo knives, spears and shields, and bearing a heavy armor of metal and turtle shells, danced until early in the morn- ing to the beat of tom-toms. There were eight sultans and three datos in the colony at the expo- sition, and Sultan Saung Hali held the marriage record with 500 slave^ girls to his credit. IVhen one sultan sees a girl he would like to marry he asks for a gift of her from the sultan to whom she belongs, "swell" DEESSEES op the PHILIPPINES. To persons who obtained their impressions of the native Filipinos from the decollete Igorrotes, the Mandanao Moros were a great surprise. Their long suit is clothes. They are the "swell" dressers of the Philippines. Datto Facundo, their chief, is the Berry Wall of Zambo Anga. All the men of the tribe are dudes and they come as near to the sartorial perfection of the chief as they can without being guilty of lese majeste. The toilettes of the women are just as brilliant, AN AETIST IN PANTS, Datto Facundo 's fancy runs to striped pants, and striped pants are therefore all the rage among the male Mores, for Datto sets the fashions for the men of Mandanao. He had many pairs of striped pants in his wardrobe. They were woven by hand from silk and cotton and were veiy brilliant garments indeed. But he also had pants of solid colors, red and blue silk, and sati« trousers that were sartorial dreams. 322 The Mokos and Visayans When Datto stood before a camera for the first time in America at the Cuartel to be photographed for this volume he wore his favorite pair of striped pants, of very brilliant hues, a tight-fitting jacket of silk, in a delicate shade of blue, and a turban fashioned out of a silk handkerchief. Datto had none of his wives with him, so Sumlia, the wife of Tapsin, posed with the chief in the gayest of fiesta array. She wore a sarong, a sort of elaborated scarf, in lieu of a skirt, and wore it so tight that it discounted by 30 per cent the tie-back of one-time popularity. The upper part of her person was robed in a tight-fitting silk bodice of deceptive coloring, and her black hair was coiled according to the 1904 mode in Zambo Anga, the village from which all the members of the party came. The ladies who went to see the Moro women in their lake houses on Arrowhead raved over the garments of their eastern sisters, and the men at least gained from an inspection of the wardrobe of Datto Facundo an idea of the colorful possibilities in trousers. To keep them from contracting American ideas 79 Visayans were imprisoned in the Cuartel on the Philippine reservation at the world's fair. Although theoretically free, they had every right to envy the 120 Moros, who are nominally slaves. The Visayans were held incommunicado. Reports that there was great dissatisfaction among them leaked out from time to time. Prob- ably one-third of them spoke English. It was declared they acquired American bad habits so readily that it was necessary to practically imprison them. NEW PRODUCTS OF ASSIMILATION. Bontoc Igorrotes, Tinganue, Suyoc Igorrotes, Negritos, Visayans, Samal Moros, Lanao Moros, Bogobos, Tagalogs and others were included in the Filipino tribal showing. The most interesting persons of the lot as types of the higher civilization in the Philippine Islands were Fran- cisco and Carmen Mendoza. They are brother and sister and are Tagalogs, the aristocrats of the islands. In common with most of the Tagalogs they have adopted Euro- pean dress, with only such modifications as are usual in the tropics. They attended the world's fair in the capacity of musicians. Carmen had the distinction of being the only person at the Philippine exposition who could play the harp. She played this instrument and her brother played the guitar at the stereopticon building. The Moros and Visayans 323 artistic, linguistic and musical visayans. The Visayan village, located at the left of the entrance to the Phil- ippine exhibit, offered the most artistic of the native Philippine dwell- ings. Among the Visayans were four children, under nine years old, who could speak Spanish and English. It is a common thing for Visayans to speak three languages. There was a Visayan orchestra of sixteen pieces in the colony. Deloso Juan, the leader, was the principal personage with the Visayans at the fair. A number of the players were composers as well. '^Visayan" is the name given one of their compositions, and ' * Queen of Hearts ' ' was given to one composed while the orchestra was in Hong Kong. The orchestra played in the native theater, which was a feature of the Visayan village. Another feature was a Catholic church, the Visayans having the only one on the Philippine grounds. riGHTING AND MUSICAL SCOUTS. The Philippine scout, seen in large numbers at the fair, is none of your dog-eating, head-hunting, half-naked Igorrote. He is a well-built man, with a countenance as intelligent as a Japanese or any other civilized person of the Orient, and in manner and bearing he is considered a credit to his race. There were about 450 of these scouts shown, including a band of forty- five pieces. And the members of this band were not selling-platers in the music line, either. They played the best music in a manner that won great applause from an audience of about 7,000, which gathered on the reservation every afternoon and gazed in wonder on the fighting natives of the Orient. The band of the Philippine scouts can jump from ragtime to the overture from ''William Tell" without batting an eye or making an extra pucker of the lips. Under the direction of Eugene P. Fischer, a former member of the army, this native band rendered pleasing melody. REGULAR MEMBERS OF THE U. S. ARMY. Those who visited the world's fair Filipino army found that the Philippines hold something else besides savages. The scouts represent the pick of the native army. They are the dudes of the Philippines and come from the best families. They speak Spanish and their native lan- guage fluently, and most of them have a fair knowledge of English. 324 ^ The Moeos and Visayans They iiave square shoulders, stand perfectly erect, look the soldier from head to foot, and work with vim and determination. The scouts have sworn allegiance to the stars and stripes and are regular members of the United States Army. Having an appreciation of their rights and privileges, no one can molest them without subjecting himself to the dangers of the bayonet, and as the camp of the Philippine scouts was under army regulations, visitors within the lines had to behave themselves. At the end of the exposition these scouts were discharged from the army. They were then allowed to remain in this country if they chose, or transported to the Philippines by the Government if they desired to return. lEON CONSTITUTIONS AND DISEASE-PEOOF. The scouts are short in stature, but are stocky in build. They appear to have constitutions of iron and disease seldom affects them. When they were enlisted in the service of the army in 1901, they were sent into regions in which it had bean found that few American soldiers could live. These included the fever districts in the Philippines, places where few white men ever go. Fever holds no dread for a Philippine scout. He is apparently immunee On the trip across the Pacific few of them were seasick, and from San Francisco to St. Louis the journey overland was not marred by sickness. In the camp at the world's fair there was a great hospital tent but it housed few patients. "Whenever the U. S. army paymaster visited the Philippine scout camp he disbursed over $7,000 among the natives serving under the stars and stripes. The scouts were allowed full pay, just twice their salaries in the Philippines, and double clothing allowances while at the fair. This was in consideration of the increased cost of living, and the fact that most of them had to send money home to their families. Major W. H. John- son, in command, installed an army canteen in the camp where soft drinks, sandwiches, fresh milk and tobacco at cost rates could be had. Cigars that cost the Governm^ent three cents apiece were sold to the scouts eight for a quarter. Celluloid collars and other dress supplies were also kept. THEIR FIEST SNOW AND SNOWBALL FIGHT. The Filipino scouts had the time of their lives at the world's fair on their arrival amid a snowstorm. They made and threw snowballs and T'HE MOEOS AND ViSAYANS 325 cheered the good throws and accepted the soft ''bullets" for full face blows as merrily as children in a pillow fight. Once in a while some American officer would make a hard snowball and hit one of the men with a force that would almost knock him down and the others would rush to the officer to see how it was done. The scouts were ordered out to remove the snow from their camp tents and then Maj. Johnson ordered them into the stove-heated tents for warmth. A few moments later, the men in the ranks sent an emissary to Maj, Johnson asking permission to snowball. He granted the request and within three minutes the battle was ragiag in all quarters of the camp. The scouts had seen snow for the first time in their trip across the mountains, but when it was described to them they said : ''Quiero probarl" which to a Missourian means ^^show me." Liter- ally it means ''let me feel it." They were "shown" the first thing on their arrival at St. Louis. A band of eighty pieces accompanied the Philippine constabulary troops. The organization is the same as that of State Militia, except that the former are in active service all the time. They are under the direction of the civil government of the islands, but are clad in the regulation khaki of the army, a narrow red braid as trimmings for their uniforms being the sole distinguishing mark from the regulars. Nearly every tribe of the archipelago has contributed some of its picked men to the composition of the constabulary, YvTiile many of them are Christians, there are Moros who are Mohammedans, and for whom a special mess had to be provided during their stay at the exposition. Their bill of fare included salmon, salt fish and rice, as the tenets of their faith prohibit the eating of flesh meat. Under the provision of a special article inserted in the form of enlistment, the Mohammedans were allowed to practice their forms of religious worship. CULiTUEE SHOWN" BY PHILLIPINE ETHNOLOGICAL MUSEUM. The Museum Exhibit of Philippine Ethnology consisted of exhaustive collections of all the materials made and used by the pagan and Moham- medanized people of the Archipelago. The articles of the Christianized peoples made up the remainder of the Philippine exhibit so far as tho native products of the islands were concerned. The most striking fact brought out about the culture of the wild 326 The Mokos and Visayans peoples of the islands is its shallowness. Two small pieces of bamboo with which to rub fire into being, a sharp stick with which to dig the earth, a narrow strip of flayed bark for the woman to wrap about her hips, with perhaps another strip for the man's breech-cloth and a dense growth of cogon grass or an impassable forest jungle for the startled savages to flee into— and you have the essence of all that is characteristic of the culture of the wild people of the Philippines. The Ethnological Museum, however, brought together from various characteristic peoples of the islands the articles which told the story of the culture of each group. The beautiful bead-work of the Bogobos, the gaudy colored clothing of the Moros, the exquisite steel-work of the peoples all truly demonstrated that, in spite of the uniform shallowness of the Philippine culture here and there, something has impelled a group of savages to develop to a high degree an industrial activity which else- where in the Archipelago may yet be in its crudest development. MATCH LOCKS, SPRINGFIELD RIFLES AND '' BLUFF " GUNS. In the collection of war material shown were old-fashioned Arab match lock guns, brought into the Philippines from Arabia 150 years ago ; a collection of ancient flint locks that date back to the era of the American revolution and also a large number of old-time Springfield rifles. Most of these ancient arms were secured by the tribes from Arabia and China, and Yankee traders are responsible for the bringing into the islands the old Civil War weapons. There were also a number of wooden guns. These were carried by the Filipinos during the insurrection to deceive the Americans, and make them think that they had more firing arms than they possessed. These wooden arms are a species of Filipino blutf . They were used extensively and with effect on the Spaniards, but the Americans were not cowed by a show of arms. NATIVE SWORDS, HATCHETS AND EXECUTION KNIVES. In the exhibit was a vast number of swords, some of them artistically engraved and some inlaid in silver and copper. The Moro sword is incased in a wooden scabbard. It is tied in with grass and carried on the shoulder, so that the Moro appears friendly until he gets up to his victim, when he swings his sword with the scabbard, the blade, of course, cutting The Moeos and Visayans 327 the grass ropes. The result is that the enemy is cut and the scabbard falls to the ground. Dirks of native make, hatchets with which the savage tribes cut off heads, execution knives for beheading and many other odd implements of warfare, including spears, were in the display. Most of these imple- ments are made by Moros. The bar iron was secured from China and fashioned into war arms by them. It is said that the Spaniards attempted to build a railroad, but the railroads were torn up by the Moros and the rails made into war imple- ments. Some of these crude atfairs, shaped for war hatchets and be- heading blades, were shown in the collection. Natives near old Cavite extracted the iron work from Montejo's fleet after Dewey sank it and converted the iron into war arms, and some of these were also shown. One was a huge hatchet, clumsy, but with a blade as sharp as a razor. In the collection were suits of armor of the Moros, made of copper chain, fastened to caribo bones, and each suit weighing about sixty pounds. There were helmets of the same material and an endless array of other articles that the Philippine tribes use in their warfare. ODD FILIPINO MIDGETS. One of the great curiosities of the Philippine quarter was a pair of marvelous midgets, brother and sister. Juan de la Cruz, the Filipino midget, paid an early visit to the Patagonian giants, and the giants returned the visit later on the same day. Juan had been wanting to see them ever since he heard about them shortly after his arrival. It was too far for him to walk, but he kept on importuning until Mark Evans, who had him in charge, obtained a vehicle and took him over. The first impulse of the giants, when they saw Juan, was to run. He was so unlike anything human that they had ever seen before that they were not disposed to take any chances on the prowess which might be his, in spite of his lack of stature. Mr. Evans explained to the interpreter of the giants and he in turn explained to the giants. Introductions followed and everybody shook hands. MADE "a hit" with PATAGONIAN GIANTS. The brobdignagians relaxed more than they had on any previous occasion. They examined Juan with great care to make sure that he 328 The Moros and Visayans ■was not a man of ordinary size, with a collapsible mecliamsm wMcli enabled him to flatten like an opera hat, but were forced to conclude that there was no trick about it. Juan invited them to call on him and said ''so long" in Spanish. The giants stood in front of their tent and watched the midget out of sight. The giants have an idea that the time to pay social obligations is now. Soj two hours later, they put on their Sunday guanaco skins and drilled up over the hill to the enartel and returned the call. To further show their good will, they took with them oranges and bananas, which they presented to Juan and his sister, Maritana, with prodigious awlrwardness and much confusion. Their interest in Maritana was even greater than had been their interest in Juan. They stayed half an hour, and with more bowing and shaking of hands, they went back over the hill to their tent. TREE DWELLERS A CURIOSITY. Greater perhaps than all other Philippine curiosities were the Filipino tree dwellers at home in the Philippine concession. They lived in a tree in the court of the Anthropological building. It was a huge oak, and, with its giant limbs, made an ideal home for these strange people. These dwellers in trees are not common in the Philippines. They are rapidly dying out, for the American occupation has made the islands so peaceful that no longer do they fear to dwell on the ground where other tribes live. Their only idea in living in trees is to be safe from attack by neighboring tribes. They reach their lofty homes by ladders, which they pull up after them. It was suggested to the tribesmen through an interpreter that there was nothing to prevent an enemy from cutting down a tree. The reply was that the tree dwellers always had a supply of rocks and stones in their houses, with which they beat off any attempt at tree-chopping, and they also have their war weapons with which to protect themselves. RED FOX — Picturesque old Eed Fox, Brule brave and medicine man, was always sur- rounded by curious persons during his stay at the big show at St. Louis. It would be hard to find a better type of a dying race than this crafty old character. PAPOOSE WITH ELK'S-TOOTH MANTLE— Little War Cloud, a chieftain's daugh- ter, proved a great drawing card to members of the Elk's order, who visited the an- thropological camp. The papoose wore daily a mantle composed entirely of elk's teeth now very valuable and worn as emblems and jewelry. A SIMPLE REPAST — Wearied with duty at the exposition grounds, this soldier has thrown himself down to eat, just as he would in the field in time of military operations. Neither the blazing sun nor the presence of a curious throng disturbs his hearty appe- tite in the least. LITTLE NELSON WHITE SHIRT— This papoose, an Arapahoe from the Cheyenne agency, O. T., was only six weeks old when he arrived at the Louisiana Purchase exposi- tion and attracted wide attention from all lovers of children. Throughout the fair he managed to have the best kind of a time. CHIEF TWO STRIKES — This aborigine, a representative of the Blackfeet, was a silent observer of all that transpired at the exposition. As Two Strikes witnessed the unfolding of history since almost back to the time of the Louisiana purchase, his opinions would have been well worth hearing. CIVILIZED OR SAVAGE, WHICH?— Here we have the product of a quarter of a century's contact with the white settler. This Indian had no sooner become settled in his new quarters at the fair than he forgot his civilized raiment, daubed on the war-paint and whooped with his fellows from the most remote reservations. COOKING FOR UNCLE SAM AT THE FAIR— This soldier boy is preparing for dinner after standing a long watch on guard duty in the natural park beyond the Phil- ippine enclosures. There will be mashed potatoes — a luxury in the army. The promptness with which the welcome dinner call will come depends largely upon his briskness. BIG BEAR — A six-foot warrior, in full dress, with his loved pipe and all tlic traj)- pjngs of liis peo^jle. An example of the race that peopled the great West when the white man tiu-ned bis face toward the setting sun and began the conquest of Louisiana. CHAPTER. XXIII. INDIANS AT THE, FAIR. Genesis of the House in the West — Living Underground Like Prairie Dogs — The Tepee a Modern Sioux Conceit — Dirt Lodges of the Western Plain Indians — Dirt Lodges Abandoned for Tepees — Dr. Dorsey and the Exposition Dirt Lodge — Geronimo Re- fuses to Exhibit Himself — Indian Congress of Fifty-one Tribes — The Sioux Eager Church Goers — A Native Episcopalian Minister — "Men Work, Ugh!" Says Sioux Chief —Disgusted with the Naked Igorrotes— Cliff Dwellings and Pueblos— Pueblo Women Unictue Dressers — First Snowballing by Pueblos — Giants of the Colorado River Valley — Live in Grass Houses and Dress Hair with Mud — Homely Sctuaw Inventor — Red Women Still the Burden Bearers. INDIANS ! Yes, all kinds of them ! The Louisiana Purchase Expo- sition would not have been physically or educationally complete without them. Most striking among the Indian features was the queer dirt lodge which a band of Pawnee and Wichita red men burrowed on the west hill near the Indiana building. For this strange domicile was the very anti- pode of those great white buildings which were the glory of the fair. As they typified the best of man's structural genius west of the Mississippi river, so did this queer Indian house represent the very beginning of architecture in the Louisiana territory. GENESIS OF THE HOUSE IN THE WEST. This genesis of the house in the western United States was reproduced that those who visited the fair might study the picture in contrast and gain in a glance an idea just how great were the triumphs of civilization in the Louisiana territory in one hundred years. The student pointing to the one could say : ' ' There is what they were building in this part of the world a century ago; here is what they are building to-day." LIVING UNDEKGROUND LIKE PRAIRIE DOGS. But not for its comparative interest alone was the dirt lodge of the Indians a fascinating feature of the fair. It was ethnically interesting as 337 338 Indians at the Fair well ; for within it the Indians dwelt through the period of the exposition, just as their forefathers lived in such houses out upon the great American plains for many hundreds of years. Like prairie dogs, they lived underground. Like moles, they bur- rowed into the earth. Like rabbits, they took refuge from the storm in their warren; and like cave dwellers, they groped around in the half- light, crawled on all fours through narrow passages, and lived very close to that warm-hearted old soul— dear Mother Earth. Dr. Geo. A. Dorsey, curator of the Field Museum, at Chicago, was commissioned by the exposition Bureau of Ethnology to look after the dirt lodge for the fair. Dr. Dorsey has worked among the western Indians a great deal. He knows their traditions, the stories of their old men, the customs of the tribes, and much of the history of that western race whose racial pictur- esqueness was so strong that a hundred years of civilization have been unable to efface it, THE TEPEE A MODERN SIOUX CONCEIT. One is ordinarily accustomed to think of the tepee as the typification of Indian homes, to believe that the red man always lived in the conical structure whose practicability has proven such that years ago the United States army adopted it under the name of the Sibley tent. But the tepee is modern— at least to many tribes. Disappointing as the statement may be, it is true enough, for out on the great plains of the West there lived and died in the centuries thousands upon thousands of Indians, whose eyes never beheld a tepee. This fine little architectural conceit came to many tribes of the Sioux less than a hundred years ago. They made the first tepees in what are now the Dakotas, lifting poles and binding skins about them as a get-shelter-quick plan while hunting the buifalo upon the great plains. The ancestors of the Sioux, it is held, knew nothing of this little trick. They had no such inviting house. They were gophers pure and simple, and lived in the ground, and it was because of his knowledge of this old house-building custom that Dr. Dorsey was selected by Prof. W. J. McGee, chief of the exposition Bureau of Anthropology, to bring to the fair a band of Indians who would build on the grounds one of those queer old dirt lodges in which the plains Indians lived before the Sioux hit upon the idea of the tepee. Indians at the Fair 339 diet lodges of the western plain indians. Dr. Dorsey knew where to get his men. He knew some old redskins among the Pawnees and the Wichitas who had told him stories of the dirt lodges they lived in when they were boys. Dr. Dorsey had been fascinated by the story when first he heard it. It ran, in substance, like this: ''The Wichitas and the Pawnees were living on the great plains in their dirt lodges. They were like the prairie dogs, the ground hogs, the gophers and badgers. They burrowed their homes in the earth, and raised over, them a frame work of willows, covered this over with tough prairie grass, and then put on the main roof of sod. "All the tribes of the plains did this. There was no other type of house among them. Some of the braves who went hunting far off to the southwest heard stories of big Indian houses built of stones, but there were nothing but dirt lodges upon the plains, and an Indian town looked like a cluster of bumps on the ground, each with its opening in the top, each with its door leading down at the side, and each sheltering all the way from 30' to 50 persons. "The Pawnees and the Wichitas lived comfortably in their dirt lodges. The lodge was a good shelter from storms. It was a storehouse in which the meat of the hunters was safe from the wolves and the coyotes which ran over the plains, seeking what meat they might steal. It was a safe retreat from the enemies of the tribe, for the roof was firm and thick and a single warrior could guard the door against any number of foemen. DIRT LODGES ABANDONED FOR TEPEES. "The tribes never thought of any other sort of lodge until one day some Pawnee hunters rode down from the North and said: 'We don't know anything about lodges. The Dakotahs are much ahead of us. They have tepees. They live on top of the ground. They have fresh air, and whenever they desire to go to some place where there are more buffalo and elk, they have only to wrap the sides of the house about the poles, lift one end to the girth of a pony and drag the house with them. It is a much better plan than our own. ' "Then it was that the Pawnees, the Wichitas and all the other tribes of the plains abandoned their dirt lodges. They made tepees. It was so much simpler and it required much less work. ' ' )40 Indians at the Faie DR. DORSEY AND THE EXPOSITION DIET LODGE. Dr. Dorsey went West and found some of the old men who had told him this story. ''Can you build us one of those old dirt lodges at the St. Louis fairl" he asked them. They said ''yes," and the result was the strange abode that followed. Forty Indians occupied the huge burro, with their food and practically all their earthly possessions, living in the cellars and sub-cellars just as their ancestors did centuries before. The Pawnee sweat bath, another unexpected feature of Indian life encountered at the fair, is a rude imitation of the fashionable Turkish bath. The Indians put up a willow tepee and cover it with blankets. They place hot stones in the tepee, cover them with blankets, and pour hot water upon them. The steam fills the tepee, and opens the pores of the skin. GEKONIMO REFUSES TO EXHIBIT HIMSELF. A party of nine Apaches and five Comanches, dwelling in peace on the grounds of the Government Indian exhibit, included one of the Indian scouts who helped bring about the surrender of Goronimo. There were hopes that Geronimo could be shown exposition visitors, but before the opening word was brought from the stoical old chief of seventy-one years that he wanted "big money" before he would consent. Charles Martine, a noted Apache scout, whose Indian name is Bah-dah-go-gilth-ilth, was among the Apaches. He was sent by General Miles in 1886 down into Geronimo 's camp in New Mexico, and induced the chief to come half way to Skeleton canyon, Arizona, where he was met by General Miles. Here Geronimo consented to surrender, after being told that he would be treated as a prisoner, and separated from his people. George M. Wratten, the Apache interpreter with the party, accompanied Martine into Geronimo 's coun- try, and Yanozha, one of the Apaches who surrendered with Geronimo, was another participant in those troublesome proceedings. These Indians were from the reservation at Fort Sill, Oklahoma, and were accompanied by Superintendent J. W. Haddon, of the Comanche Indian School there. Indians at the Fair 341 INDIAN" CONGEESS OF FIFTY-ONE TRIBES. Fifty-one different tribes of the North American Indian formed the great assembly of savages shown in the Indian Congress on the Pike without taking into consideration those living elsewhere on the grounds. The tribes presented a rare ethnological picture of the daily life of ttie aborigine. The Sioux in their tepees, the Winnebagos in their wigwams, the Pimas in their wickiups, Navajos weaving their blankets and the Moquis making their pottery, formed scenes of genuine Indian life sel- dom found in any of the already familiar pageantry of savagery. The dances done by the tribes included war dances, sun dances, dances of different feasts to various gods, the scalp dance, the Omaha dance, the Buffalo dance and snake dance. Among the tribes represented in this gathering were Sioux, Black Feet, Crows, Apaches, Assinaboines, Ogallalla Sioux, Cheyenne, Brule Sioux, Porcupine Sioux, Lower Brule Sioux, Crow Creek Sioux, White Clay Sioux, Wounded Knee Sioux, White Eiver Sioux, Pipeclay Sioux, Rosebud Sioux, Flathead, Arapa- hoes, Peigans, Poncas, Sac and Fox, Pueblos, Moqui, San Carlos Apaches, Jiccarilla, Kiowa, Mescalero Apaches, Wichitas, lowas, Winnebagos, Omahas, Otoes, Gros Ventre, Pottawatomie, Mojave, Shoshone, Santee, Osages, Pawnees, Chippewas, Tuscaroras, Onandaguia, Oneida, Mohawks, Senecas, Cayaguas, Ojibways. THE SIOUX EAGER CHURCH GOERS. A novel feature of Indian life at the fair that attracted widespread attention among visitors was a unique program of church services inau- gurated Sunday mornings in the Indian School building, where about 100 Sioux Indians sang popular hymns of the country, translated into their native tongue, and listened to an Episcopal service in Sioux conducted by Scott Charges Alone. The latter member of the Sioux nation was with the ethnological exhibit as interpreter for the Sioux, and was ordained into the Episcopal church at the Rosebud Agency, South Da- kota, some years preceding. He secured the large assembly room in the Indian School building for regular Sunday services. The thirty-four Sioux encamped near the school invited the Sioux from the Indian exhibit on the Pike, and the latter eagerly accepted as they had been searching for a place to go to church from the date of their arrival in camp at the exposition. 342 Indians at the Fair A native episcopalian minister. ''He should visit the sick and prepare persons for baptism and teach school, when there is opportunity." "Wayazankapi kin wanv^icayag i kta, qa wicasta baptisma on wica- yuwiyeye kta, qa tehan okihipica kinhan siceca wayawawicakiye kts iyececa." This is from the order issued by Bishop Hare of the Episcopal Church of South Dakota to Scot Charges Alone, a full-blood Sioux Indian, per- mitting him to preach the Gospel to the Indians. The second paragraph is the translation of the first— that is, the second is in the Sioux lan- guage. It is beyond the ordinary individual to understand Sioux, and, what is more, he can't pronounce the names when they are spelled. There is a common saying that "It's all Sioux to me," and a glance at the Sioux of the Bishop's order would seem to make good the saying. However, the Sioux language is musical. It is delivered in a rather musical manner and the songs of the Sioux are very musical. There have been translations of such familiar hymns as "Rock of Ages," "Nearer, My God, to Thee," and "Blessed Eedeemer," that in the Sioux are greatly increased in musical beauty. Scott Charges Alone learned English at the Indian school of the Eosebud Agency, South Dakota, and speaks English fluently. He was ordained by Bishop Hare, and his official order was displayed to visitors printed in both Sioux and English. "men work, ugh!" says sioux chief. Chief Yellow Hair of the Sioux and the warriors of his village at the world's fair made up their minds early as to what they think of the Filipino tribes. They decided that the Moros and Bontocs and Suyocs won't do. On their first visit to the villages of the Far East savages the Sioux were favorably impressed. The islanders were doing nothing that day except to sit around and smoke, and Yellow Hair and his braves agreed that their Far East brethren were acting in a very gentlemanly manner. They stayed a long while and manifested keen interest in the attire and manners and houses of the Filipinos. Indians at the Fair 343 But it was different when they paid a second visit to the Philippine villages. They found the men actually working, while the women sat around in the shade and gossiped. Looks of disgust came over the faces of the visiting braves. All said '^ugh" with unmistakable displeasure. ^'What matter!" was asked by somebody who had an idea that an Indian could understand better if addressed in chunks. ''Men work, ugh!" answered Chief Yellow Hair, and he and his braves strode majestically out of the Bontoc village and returned to their camp. Their displeasure was so great that not a member of the party would again honor the Philippine village with a visit. DISGUSTED WITH THE NAKED IGOEEOTES. Equally unsatisfactory results followed when Chief Tall Crane of the Sioux, clad in his gayest robes and with his full feathers and accom- panied by several of his tribe, including two squaws, called on the Igor- rotes. They were admitted to the camp and they walked around, looking keenly at the naked savages. The combined clothes of the savage Igor- rotes, if sewed together, would not have made a piece of cloth large enough to flag a freight train. ' ' Naked ! ' ' said old Tall Crane, with a wry face. ' ' Look at the clothes ! ' ' one of the Igorrotes said to another in their native tongue. The Sioux wandered around the camp of the Igorrotes for half an hour, but apparently did not enjoy themselves. An interpreter said that they were disgusted with the nakedness of the Igorrotes and declared that they were savages and were not American citizens. Chief Tall Crane looked the nude people over critically and shook his head. "Not good people," he grunted. ^Vhile the Sioux wandered about the camp they kept their clothes even tighter around them, bringing up the ends of their blankets so that scarcely their ankles showed. They were much interested when told that the Government had made the Igorrote women wear coats, even if the coats were not buttoned up, for by the coats the women were distinguished from the men. Very few Igorrotes wore more than a breech clout, and men and 344 Indians at the Fair women were dressed the same, except that the women wore a coat or a coarse blouse. "How do you like them?" was asked of Tall Crane. ' '■ Ugh ! " he replied, and shook his head. The Igorrotes seemed much interested in the Indians, particularly in the gorgeous blankets and headdresses and feathers, and the painted faces, for the Indians were in full dress. Several Negritos were washing some clothes with their feet in the creek and the Indians stopped to watch them, evidently interested. The Negritos simply kicked the clothes around in the water with their feet and then wrung them out, spreading them on the bank to dry. Then they waded in themselves. They did not use their hands to bathe their bodies. ' ' That's the way dogs wash," said one of the Indians, according to the interpreter. The Sioux were also interested in seeing a man clip the wings of the chickens so that they could not fly. The scheme was explained to them, but their faces showed nothing of what they thought of the scheme. When an Igorrote tried to get up a tight between two roosters, however, the Indians grinned as if it were something they understood and liked. CLIFF DWELLINGS AND PUEBLOS. In the Cliff Dwellers ' concession in the Pike were reproduced the most famous caves of the stone age, as the remains exist to-day in the canons of Arizona, New Mexico and Colorado. An added ethnological interest was found in a large Pueblo of Zuni and Moki Indians, whom science class as the descendants of the ancient race of the kings. These Indians had never previously been shown in any Wild West display or in any exposition. A cliff dwelling exhibit was one of the interesting things on the Chicago Midway, but no living types were with the attraction. Huge cliffs, rising to beetling heights, form the front of the conces- sion at St. Louis. A tower sixty feet above the passing crowd, over- hanging ledges, deep fissures and caverns, were reached by a tortuous trail along the rock sides. Burros conveyed the visitor to the top of the crags, where the caves and their relics could be seen, and where a fine view was obtained of the busy scenes on the Pike below. Entrance to the exhibit was through a tunnel which pierced the cliffs. The reverse side of the walls presented more caves and other mountain Indians at the Faie 345 trails. Zuni Pueblo was spread around the inside. A large assembly hall of adobe filled the center of the village. In this theater, the Indians performed the dance of Kachina or masks, the poetic flute dance, and the dramatic snake dance. The Kachina is distinguished by the use of the heads of buffalo and bear which are worn by the warriors over their heads so as to conceal the features. The Snake Kiva, a cavern reached by a ladder, th€ famous Dance Eock of Wolpi, the Antelope Altar, and other interesting sights rose from cacti and sage growing in the rocks and sand. Long ladders reached to the roofs of the Pueblo dwellings. Pot- ters, weavers, silversmiths, basket makers, blanket makers and other Indian workers gave the final ethnological touch to the attraction. The band of 150 Moqui, Zuni and Pueblo cliff dwellers was headed by their chief. Governor Kamos Archuleta, a member of the San Juan tribe, and had with them their priest, Cisuke, besides a great number of the young men and maidens, and sages and seers of the tribes. They came to the fair direct from their homes in New Mexico and Arizona. HEEEDITAEY GOVEENOR OP THE CLIFF DWELLERS. The most striking figure of the party was Archuleta, their hereditary Governor. He is the proud possessor of a cane given to him in 1863 by President Lincoln and a silver medal presented to one of his ancestors in 1837 by President Van Buren. The medal is an heirloom of the rulers of the tribe to which he belongs. One of the cherished possessions of the band is a sacred American eagle, which was brought along with the party to the fair. The bird is an ancient one, probably antedating any member of the band. Other live stock included a quantity of rattlesnakes used in the Moqui snake dance. They also displayed many of their heathen idols, curios and specimens of their basketry, pottery, and bead and burnt-leather work, with the materials for making more. Many of the Indians were Chris- tians. There were 15 children in the colony, one of these a baby of four months. The Mokis were entirely new at expositions, having on this occasion left their reservation for the first time. They gave the snake dance, for which they are famous. All these people are regarded as descendants of the people who built the cliff dwellings of the Southwest, and they were a picturesque lot indeed. 346 Indians at the Fair PUEBLO WOMEN UNIQUE DRESSEES. The Pueblo women excited miicli interest when they appeared, for their dress is unlike that of any other primitive people. They bind their legs in thick white woolen bandages. These women are famous for their feats of balancing water jars or ollas upon their heads. Y/hen the cliff dwellers arrived at the world's fair grounds in the early spring before the opening and peered from their quarters the sight of snow made them shout with delight. ''Twelke, twelke," screamed the children. In a few minutes the entire band had clambered down the ladders from their aerial perches to revel in the first snow they had ever seen. ^'Twelke" is the Pueblo word for a specie of milk weed that grows in the Arizona desert, and the children thought that a high wind had covered the ground with the feathery plumes from its pods. FIRST snowballing BY PUEBLOS. Barefooted they danced about in the snow and gathered it up in their hands, unconsciously made their first snowballs and started pelting each other as they had done with the milk weed plumes. The older members of the band were as delighted as the children, and threw snowballs with all their might. Even dignified Gov. Ramos marched from his quarters out into the snow and picked up a handful and gravely tasted it. As soon as they touched the dry floors and their feet began to sting from the cold the papooses sat down, looked at their toes in amazement and cried "hot, hot." After the smarting ceased and they were again playing about the floor of their quarters, they would run to the doors and gaze out at the snow, but none ventured out of the doors again. Two Eskimos clad in white cotton garments and high boots had the best time since they reached St. Louis when they ran out of doors and started to work in the trenches in the snow storm. They were sent back to their quarters and appeared much disgusted at the order. GIANTS OF THE COLORADO RIVER VALLEY. Probably the least familiar type of American Indians at the fair were the Cocopas of the Colorado river country, who set up their strange grass- covered habitation on the Anthropological reservation. Indians at the Fair 347 A representative showing of members of the strange tribe of Cocopa denizens of the Colorado river swamps along the southern boundary of the United States left their homes to take their places as features of the Anthropological exhibit at St. Louis. They were in charge of E. C. Cushman of the Anthropological department. These Indians are among the greatest puzzles that scientists have met with. The men are remarkably large for that latitude, few of them being under six feet. The women are about 5 feet 6 inches. They inhabit the lowlands of the Colorado valley, despite the fact that every year they are driven out by floods. They are a tribe of undoubted antiquity, but scientists have never been able to trace their origin. They inhabited the Colorado river valley when Cortez came to America and their mode of life is now the same as it was then. The race is rapidly dying out. LIVE IN GEASS houses AND DRESS HAIR WITH MUD. Their grass house, near the hut of the Patagonian giants, attracted unusual attention. No exhibit had ever been made before of the people or their habitation. The house was made of willow posts and tullies, the latter resembling the grass of bullrushes, which grow in Mexico. It consisted of one room, in which three families were quartered, and a front porch as large as the room where the 22 women and children spent most of their time. Their cooking was done over an open fire, made in a hole in the ground. The Cocopas have their cellars on top of their houses. In huge baskets on the flat grass roof that always tops a Cocopa house are kept huge baskets in which the corn and beans which go far to supply the family larder are stored. These baskets, as well as smaller ones, are woven by the Indians and they were to be seen weaving them at the fair. Very primitive but peaceable are the Cocopas. They fish and farm. Their lands are in the Colorado bottoms. As previously explained these bottoms are over- flowed every season, but this does not disconcert the Cocopas. As soon as the water recedes they plant their crops of corn and wheat and melons and pumpkins in the mud. The men, as well as the women, affect long hair. They are great hairdressers. They "do up" their hair in mud and let the mud stay till it is dry, then wash it off. It is said that this really leaves the hair and scalp very clean. The mud is left on two or three days. 348 Indians at the Fair There are about 1,000 of the Indians in the Colorado valley. Pablo Colorado is their chief and he was with the party at the fair. They are great swimmers and runners. It is said that they can run all day in a ' ' dog trot. ' ' They snare quail. They have a few guns, but use them little. They were expert bowmen in the zenith of their past. A HOMELY SQUAW INVENTOR. The principal lodge of the Arapahoes on the Indian reservation at the world's fair was a recognition of and tribute to the wisdom of a woman. It consisted of a large tepee^ surrounded by a circular hedge of willows ten feet high. Tepees may or may not be as old as the Indians themselves, but the willow hedge which distinguished the Arapahoe Lodge from that of other tribes is a modern device, and a squaw devised it. Her inventiveness was possibly a recompense for her lack of personal charm, for if there is anything in a name (and there is a lot in an Indian name), she must have been unpleasant to behold. Her name was Spotted Face, and she was also known as Ugly Woman. Cleveland Warden, full-blood interpreter for the Arapahoes and an authority on the customs of his people, told about it. ''Spotted Face," he said, "had some children in the school on the Valentine agency in Oklahoma, and to be near them she pitched her tepee near the school. It was an exposed position and the wind annoyed her. She cut willows and built a stockade around her tepee, binding the wil- lows together with slippery elm bark. The other Indians laughed at her at first, but they soon saw that the hedge protected the tepee, and it came into use. This was at about the time that the buffaloes disappeared from the plains and the Arapahoes ceased to roam. I think it was in 1877 that Spotted Face built her stockade, and ever since every Arapa- hoe tepee has been surrounded by a hedge. ' ' In common with all tepees the Arapahoe lodges at the fair faced the east. EED WOMEN STIIxL THE BURDEN BEARERS. "Let the women do the work" is still the motto of the red man. Con- tact with civilization has not changed him in respect to his contempt for toil. When the baggage of the Indians arrived at the Indian camp on the Indians at the Faie 349 Anthropological reservation at the exposition the bucks found comfort- able seats on a mossy bank in the shade of the fence across the road from the site assigned for their camp and gave themselves up to a siesta, while the women did the work. There were great coils of tepee canvas and great bundles of tepee poles bound about with wire. The squaws unbound the poles and set them with confidence and hung the canvas about them with the opening toward the rising sun. All the time the bucks sat on the mossy bank and rested. Only one gave any token that he had any interest in the raising of his tepee. Two Charge, at the risk of losing prestige with his tribesmen, took care of his 2-year-old papoose. Bright Eyes, while Mrs. Two Charge put up the family domicile. He droned a ditty as he bounced his offspring on his knee, and once, when a couple of white women stopped to look at the pretty child, tlie rest of the bucks joined in the lullaby to show that they were willing to take care of the baby while the women did the work. In marked contrast to most features of the Indian display were four Indian students at the Indian school building at the world's fair during the entire term. They were Lizzie Antone of Sapulpa, I. T., an Oneida ; Ona Dodson of Bartelsville, I. T., a Cherokee; Etta Loafman of South McAlester, I. T., a Chippewa, and Helen Mitchell of South McAlester, a Cherokee. Education and association have left them little appearance of the tribes which they represent, but they are American Indian ?2iaidens, and proud of their ancestry. They assisted under the direction of Mrs. McCowan, in getting the interior of the Indian school building ready for world's fair guests. All four are taking courses of instruction at the Chilocco institution, and all will graduate shortly. They are bright and attractive girls, who have been won away from almost everything tribal except tribal pride. They were at the building until the close of the fair, and continued their studies during the summer, proving both their natural aptitude for intellectual improvement and their adaptability to the more restricted ways of modern society. In themselves they were a study around which hovered not a few elements of the pathetic. 350 Indians at the Fair THE PEIMAL. instinct COMMON TO BOTH EACES. It is simply a question of keeping such representatives of the race away from their own people a sufficient length of time to wean them from their native instincts, upon which determines whether the results of such education shall be permanent or otherwise. How strong that instinct is, to return to the primitive life of the plain and the forest, has been demonstrated upon more than one occasion. In fact, the instinct is sometimes strong in the nature of the white man who has passed all his days amid scenes of complex society. Espe- cially if he has lived the strenuous life of a bustling, nerve-wearing city, there comes an almost irresistible longing now and then to leave the hurly-burly of it all far behind and be alone with nature and natural life. If it were not that it is becoming more and more the custom to snatch a season of this change away from the social, business and pro- fessional cares of the white man's world, there is no telling how many mysterious withdrawals into the wilds of the forest and the expanses of the plains would be recorded. CHAPTER XXIV. E.SKIMOS AT THE, FAIF^ perfect Illusion of Arctic Life — Eskimos Alone Enjoy the Snow — The Columbian Expo- sition Eskimo Baby — North and South Fall Out Over Red Peppers — ^Ancient Alas- kan History in Totem Poles — Women Managers of Alaskan Exhibits — How Mrs. Ongman Collected Her Exhibit — Saved by Being Buried in the Snow — All Day Get- ting Breakfast — Superstitions of Alaskan Eskimos — ^No Married Woman Can Sell a Doll — Must Have Exact Change or Article Rectuired — ^Eskimo Women Jealous of White Women — Die Young, Mostly of Consumption. LOSELY allied witli the American Indian of the plains is the Eskimo from the northland, or as some authorities declare, ' ' the Esquimaux from the dreary land of ice and snaux. ' ' Like every one else the Eskimo was at the exposition— some about the Alaskan building in the Anthropological quarters and others on the Pike. There the Eskimo was to be seen in his environment of icebergs and polar landscape, living in huts of reindeer skin about a great lake of real water on which the native canoes darted, plied by long-handled oars. The famous Alaskan sledge dogs drew the visitor through an ice colon- nade containing twenty tons of Arctic curiosities. The combat between Eskimo and Polar bears brought the exhibition to a thrilling climax. PERFECT ILLUSION OF ARCTIC LIFE. The attention of the Piker was arrested and directed to this show by the papier-mache bergs frowning above the Pike. On the ledges of glaciers above, a pack of Alaskan dogs were to be seen dragging a heavily-weighted sledge. The scene recalled the recent days of Alaskan gold fever, and the methods of transportation used by the American gold hunter to penetrate the frozen north, in search of the yellow treas- ure. The Piker passed under an icy arch to the interior of the show. Before him was a perfect illusion of Arctic life. Native men, women and children, all engaged in their pursuits of hunting and preparing food for their long hibernation when the Arctic night falls. The visitor was treated to a beautiful display of the northern aurora as he passed 351 352 Eskimos at the Fair from the Ice Colonnade beneath the glacier masses at the rear of the show. Native sports, marriage ceremonies, and burial rites added to the in- terest. On the lake an exciting seal hunt was carried on. One of the most interesting features was the Klondike mining camp, where gold tailings mixed with gravel, were washed out by experienced miners. ESKIMOS ALONE ENJOY THE SNOW. During the preliminary period before the opening of the exposition, the Eskimos alone, of all the strange travelers gathered on the grounds, enjoyed the snow and cold weather. Clothed in a heavy deerskin suit and wearing high boots of the same material, Nancy Columbo, the Eskimo child at the world's fair, hugely enjoyed the belated midwinter weather. While other persons on the Pike shivered and huddled about little stoves to keep warm, Nancy stood outside the Eskimo village and pelted snowballs at passersby. THE COLUMBIAN EXPOSITION ESKIMO BABY. Nancy Columbo bore the same relation to the Columbian Exposition as Louisa Francis Eihinang, the Filipino baby, bore to the Louisiana Purchase. Nancy was born in the Eskimo village at the Chicago fair, and she was named by Mrs. Potter Palmer. Nancy is for Nancy Hanks, the mother of Abraham Lincoln, while Columbo is for Christopher Co- lumbus. Nancy was a participant at the Pan-American Exposition at Buffalo and at the Trans-Mississippi Exposition in Omaha. She has all the characteristics of an Eskimo, but she speaks English intelligently. NOETH AND SOUTH FALL OUT OVER RED PEPPERS. The chilly North and the fiery South came together on the Pike long before the exposition opened. A party of Eskimos were building their imitation eglooks, or snow- houses, and the chill wind that whistled up the Pike lent an almost cheerful reality to the scene. At the same time a band of Indians from the cliff dwellings of sunn}^ New Mexico wandered down the way, munching red peppers, a string of which one of them carried, to keep up an internal glow. As they came opposite the Eskimos they stopped to gaze and pity. +^ o p o o fl -1-^ Oi o bD fl Pi OJ fH o ■^ ^ br ;:::; n J., 0) o _:-I ® =H ^ rJS r*~ 03 0) !~> O rfl-T^ H -^ S h a s M 3^ H ■m -1^ !zi i^ be m 0) 03 r^ *-! -I .5 «H o3 -tJ 00 a 0) m '^ S oi f-l ^ » a a; ^ t— 1 ^ fl S o r-l o 05 w is « ft o 05 s ,^ O 05 0) Tl l>* t> M 05 >! t>.^ 05 +J FhH OJ H a EH 05 Tf O rt M ^-l^ i» " bfi fir - 'S> OJ a ^ o3 0) S WHEN THE DAY IS DONE — Uncle Sam is represented at the exposition by soldiers, as well as sailors and marines. This cavalryman is making ready for a night 's repose after his hard day in the broiling sun. The soldiers at the fair proved a great drawing card and were constantly surrounded by eager questioners. CHAPTER. XXVI. MYSTERIOUS LITTLE JAPANESE PRIMITIVES How Prof. Starr Brought the Ainu to the Fair — The Women Love Their Children and Fear an Old Woman's Ghost — Nature Worshipers and Soulless Women — Brave Hunters, But No Warriors — Women Fond of Tattooed Mustaches — They Never Use Mirrors — Do Not Blacken Their Teeth — Stroking Beard or Hair a Mark of Honor — Personal Worth Measured by Bear Skulls — Hand Rubbing, Instead of Hand Shak- ing — Ainu Women Said to Suckle Bear Cubs — Queer Mixture for Arrow Poison — Painful Tattooing Processes — Not Only Bury, But Hide Their Dead — ^A Grasping Ainu Baby — St. Louis Ainu Polite and Clean. NO description of Japan and the Japanese is complete without the story of the Ainu people— a hairy race from the north of Japan, unlike any other on the face of the globe. HOW PEOF. STAER BROUGHT THE AINU TO THE FAIR. Professor Starr, of the University of Chicago, brought to the St. Louis exposition eight of these queerest little people in the world. This was the first time in the history of the world that a colony of them has ever been seen in any other part of the world than those northern islands of the Japanese archipelago which are the Ainus' home. Ethnologists accredit the Ainu with being one of the most interesting members of the human family. No other man is so hairy as he, nor is there any other primitive race that has so many customs peculiar to itself and different from those of other nations and races. Professor Starr personally conducted the enterprise of bringing these strange people from their far-away home on the coast of Asia to the St. Louis fair. He left St. Louis in December of 1903 for Japan, secured the assistance of the Japanese government in an expedition to the Isle of Yezzo, chose eight good specimens of the Ainu and brought them back with him the following spring. It was originally intended that there should be a great congress of primitive races at the St. Louis fair, but the enterprise was abandoned because of its expensiveness. It was estimated that a complete congress 385 386 Mysteeious Little Japanese Peimitives of the sort proposed would cost upward of $2,000,000. In its stead Pro- fessor W. J. McGee, chief of the Department of Anthropology for the exposition, resolved to bring to the fair some of the least known and most remarkable of primitive people. He sent for the Ainu, the primitive peo- ple of Japan; the Patagonian giants, who live on the rocky shores of Tierra del Fuego, in South America, and the little Pygmies of Central Africa. MEMBERS OF THE PARTY. The members included in the Ainu party were Sangea Hiramura, the patriarch of the tribe, and his wife ; Sansukuno Kutsurogeainu Hira- mura, their son, with his wife, Shuttrateku, and their child, little 2-year- old Kiku; Yuzo Osawa and his spouse, Time, with their 5-year-old youngster. Kin Goro Bete, a handsome young fellow, was the only bachelor in the party. Comparatively little is known concerning the strange race, which may be briefly described as follows: THE HAIRY AINU IN" A NUTSHELL. Ainu means man. The Ainu have no conception of a hell and no laws. They never laugh aloud. The women do the work. Suicide is unknown to them. They are called the hairy people and are the primi- tives of Japan. Their origin is virtually unknown. They live in the northernmost islands of Japan. The Ainu never wash, brush or comb the hair. They are the gentlest known race of barbarians. Ainu women strap their babies upon their back. No Ainu woman takes the name of her husband. They despise cowardice, and they rever- ence old age. All Ainu have long black hair on their arms and legs. They are a cold-blooded people, without strong emotions. Flogging is the punishment for all crimes except murder. THE WOMEN LOVE THEIR CHILDREN AND FEAR AN OLD WOMAN ^S GHOST. Ainu women love their children, but they never look after them. All the men are fishermen and hunters, and wear long beards. The Ainu go to bed at sunset and they never stir about at night. An Ainu man who neglects his god-sticks becomes an outcast. The ghost of an old woman is the thing most feared by an Ainu. Mysterious Little Japanese Primitives 387 They have flat bones in their arms and legs like the cave men of Europe. Metallurgy is entirely unknown to them, and they make noth- ing in metals. Every Ainu believes that the dog one time possessed the power of speech. The Ainu were once a numerous race, and they pos- sessed all the islands of Japan. They have no prisons, nor restraint of any sort as a penalty for wrong- doing. Because of their close intermarrying, the Ainu become fewer in numbers each year. The Ainu are great drinkers of liquor, and it has proven a great curse to them. Baldness is very prevalent among the Ainu, and it is regarded as a great curse. The Ainu seldom sleep on anything spfter than a board, and they do not use pillows. NATURE worshipers AND SOULLESS WOMEN. They are nature worshipers, and their gods are the sun, the winds and the ocean. The folklore of the Ainu is one of the most complete known among the primitive races. The bear is sacred to the Ainu, and they eat bear flesh at their big religious feasts. When an Ainu woman meets an Ainu man, she always steps aside to let him pass. The Ainus worship their gods by whittling little sticks and setting them up in their honor. Ainu women are not supposed to have any souls, and are therefore forbidden to pray. BRAVE HUNTERS, BUT NO WAERIORS. An Ainu house is always abandoned when one dies in it. Oftentimes it is burned. Letters are entirely unknown to the Ainu. In fact, they seem incapable of any civilization. There are no Ainu warriors. It is believed they are the only non-fighting savages known. The Ainu have no idols, and their temple is a sacred hedge of little willow sticks set in the ground. The Ainu are great fish eaters, and their principal food at the St. Louis fair was fish and beef. Shaking the head to indicate yes and no is unknown to them. Tliey make these signs with their shoulders. The Ainu are brave, and a hunter does not hesitate to take his knife in hand and attack a bear. WOMEN FOND OP TATTOOED MUSTACHES. The Ainu women tattoo mustaches upon their upper lips, and pat- terns in the palms of their hands. They are dark-skinned, and slow- 388 Mysteeious Little Japanese Primitives witted, and their old men, with their long beards, look like patriarchs. They are almost the sam.e height as the Japanese, but are heavier, and they haven't the almond eye. The dog has a conspicuous place in the Ainu village. Every Ainu loves dogs, and their villages are full of them. The Ainu children have big stomachs. Oftentimes, they wear a suspender to hold their stomachs up. The Ainu talk in a sing-song fashior and the women pitch their voices into a very disagreeable falsetto. women nevee use mirroes. The Ainu are not vain about their personal appearance, and even the the women and girls never use mirrors. They sing weird songs, make good boats, always put a leaky roof on their houses, and are great smokers. The Ainu and Japanese tongues, while very similar in some things, are two distinctly separate languages. The Ainu know nothing of the use of firearms. Their favorite weap- on is the spear. They all carry knives. Ainu names are always from some peculiarity or adventure of the individual, there being no family names. They are regarded as having more customs peculiar to themselves than any other primitive people in the world. The Ainu are an entirely sep- arate race from the Japanese, and were on the islands when the Japanese came. The Ainu come from a cold country, and the climate at St. Louis was the warmest they had ever experienced. They venerate the pine and the oak tree, and make their clothing from fiber peeled from the inner bark of the elm. Ainu women are famous for their violent tempers, and the men stand in great fear of them when they are aroused. Bathing is rare among the Ainu, though they are almost amphibious, so long have they lived on the islands of the seas. The Ainu bury food and pipe and tobacco with the dead, and both men and women shave their heads when they are in mourning. Many of the Ainu women are mat weavers, and mats woven of bull- rushes are made to serve as coverings for windows and doors. The Ainu are fine horsemen, and they are accurate marksmen. Singularly, they are not runners. They regard it as unbecoming. DO NOT BLACKEN THEIE TEETH. Ainu women have handsome teeth, white and straight, and they do Mysteeious Little Japanese Primitives 389 not blacken them, as the Japanese were one time compelled to do. The penalty for murder among them is to have the tendons of the arms and legs cut, so the offender may not hunt or fish any more. It is said that no two Ainu ever build the same kind of a house. Every new house also has some little thing about it that is original with the builder. Strangers in an Ainu home are always made to sleep on the east side of the house. It would be bad luck and worse manners to sleep elsewhere. PEOPLE OF A SINGLE STRENUOUS IDEA. Ethnologists call the Ainu the people of a single idea. They think of one thing at a time, and when an Ainu is thinking his mind cannot be diverted. The average height of the Ainu men is given as 5 feet and 2 inches. They have very long arms, and can stretch them a hand beyond their own height. The Ainu believe that ill-fortune will attend them if their pictures are taken, hence amateur photographers at the Ainu village had a hard time of it. A. Henry Savage Landor, who has been among the Ainu more than any other Caucasian, estimates that there are 8,000 of them on Yezzo and neighboring islands. STROKING BEARD OR HAIR A MARK OF HONOR. When an Ainu man desires to show great deference to another he strokes his long beard, repeating this movement according to the honor he wishes to express. The Ainu have wavy hair, often curly. Black is the predominant color. The hair of the children is lighter, and often auburn. All Ainu hair is coarse and strong. The Ainu housewife never washes the dishes, and she gets along with very few cooking utensils. They live in thatched houses of rude pattern, and without any floors. The Ainu woman salutes by stroking her hair and then rubbing the first finger of the right hand across her upper lip. It is said to be much more graceful than it sounds. Tattooing the mustache upon the upper lips of Ainu girls begins in childhood, and they are not considered young ladies until the disfiguring marks have spread out to their cheeks. The Ainu are the greatest of grimacing humans. Some of them can 390 Mysterious Little Japanese Primitives make more faces than a monkey. The trick of moving the scalp with the muscles is possessed by many of them. PERSONAL worth MEASURED BY BEAR SKULLS. Every Ainu man keeps on a rack in his hut the skulls of all the bears, wolves and other animals he has killed. The more bear skulls he has, the higher he is rated by his fellows. The Ainu and Japanese half-breeds have proven a sickly people, and there are few of them in the country. The Ainu's chief foe has been smallpox, which has greatly decimated the race. The Ainu's best wish for a friend is ''May you be kept warm." This is cited as one of several reasons for believing that they came from the north to the islands which are now their homes. The Ainu believe music to have the power of curing illness, and, while they have only a few primitive musical instruments, they always sing to the sick. Naturally, some of the sick never recover. The custom of tattooing a mustache upon the lips of the girls and women grew out of the Ainu belief that persons without hair upon their faces are without courage or any other goodly attribute. HAND RUBBING INSTEAD OF HAND SHAKING. The Ainu are the longest and most peculiar of handshakers. They simply lay the palms of the hands together and slide them back and forth, making it a hand rubbing more than a hand shaking. The Ainu have no marriage ceremony, and a man is privileged to have as many wives as he can get. The Ainu couple simply agree to live together, and their advent upon this venture is not celebrated in any wise. They are light reddish-brown in color, and have none of the sallow yellowness of the Mongolian. They have expressive eyes, and almost every Ainu's eyes are light brown in color. Black eyes are rare among them. Ethnologists have always been puzzled by the fact that the Ainu look more like Europeans than Asiatics. In fact, some of the people who have studied them believe them to have come from northern Europe. Ainu nomenclature still clings to much of Japan. The primitive people had a happy knack of giving pretty and appropriate names to rivers, lakes, mountains, etc., and the Japanese have retained many of these names. Mysterious Little Japanese Primitives 391 AINU WOMEN SAID TO SUCKLE BEAR CUBS. Ainu women sometimes suckle bear cubs brought in by the liunters. This is disputed by some white people who have visited them, but others aver that they have seen the women doing it and that there cannot be any doubt of it. The worst injury that may be done to an Ainu is to hide his god sticks— the little sticks he whittles and places in the ground about his house. The Ainu of the Island of Yezzo, where almost all of them are found, were practically undiscovered up to 100 years ago. They had never seen a white man until, early in the nineteenth century, an ad- venturous Englishman landed upon their shores. QUEER MIXTURE FOR ARROW POISON. Ainu hunters poison their arrows with a queer mess. They take the brains of a crow, some tobacco ashes, and two native insects, and mix them all together, producing a substance so poisonous that an arrow dipped into it will kill a bear, even though the missile inflicts but a slight flesh wound. The rapid civilization of the Japanese presents a striking contrast to the inability of the Ainu to become anything more than simple bar- barians. Their stupidity in this respect has never been satisfactorily explained, and they are ethnically listed with the races who are impos- sible of civilization and education. The Ainu are far from ugly, and their heads are no less than pic- turesque- Gentleness is the striking thing noticeable in their faces. Their foreheads are narrow, and slope gently backward. Their noses are slightly hooked, flat and broad, with wide nostrils. They have large mouths and firm, thick lips. They have exceptionally long ear lobes. PAINFUL TATTOOING PROCESSES. Tattooing among the Ainu is very painful. Horizontal slashes are made with a knife, crossed by slanting cuts very close together. The coloring matter is made from the bark of birch wood scraped from the bottom of a kettle. The slashes in the flesh are opened and the coloring is rubbed in without mercy. The flesh swells, and becomes very sore. 392 Mystekious Little Japanese Peimitives and Ainu girls are unable to talk for many days after the tattooing on their lips. Tattooing of the women is virtually the only primitive characteristic of the Ainu, for they have been largely converted to the Christian faith, and in manner of dress appear almost as well as some of the people of the lower section of Japan. The tattooed lips of the woman denote that she is married and it has been customary for all women of the island to receive this mark as soon as they were elegible to matrimony. A law recently passed in Japan prohibits this custom, so that the growing generation of the Ainu tribe may look just like other people. The wilder Ainu of the seashores dress in the skins of birds, with the feathers inside. The dress of the men is shaped like a short tunic, made of bird skins. Some of the more pretentious are trimmed with seal. The woman's dress is much longer, and reaches almost to the feet. It hangs loose and long sleeves cover the hands. The women wear mocca- sins and long yellow boots, as do the men. The Ainu of the coast rank very low in civilization, being singularly without the mental acumen necessary to mental development. Some ethnologists consider them inferior to the blacks of the Australian bush or the tree dwellers of India. Their ignorance of the blessings of clean- liness is said to even exceed that of the Tehuelche Indians of Tierra del Fuego, at the extreme end of the South American continent. NOT ONLY BURY, BUT HIDE THEIR DEAD. The Ainu not only bury their dead, but hide them as well, and whenever the burying place of a family or village is discovered, it is abandoned, and a new one is selected. It is said that the queer little grave posts stuck into the graves are very difficult for collectors to get because of the secrecy maintained by the Ainu toward their burying places. Sometimes a traveler will run upon an old cemetery in a thick part of the wood. The Ainu are fortune tellers in a very unique way. After dark the fire is etxinguished, and two small bamboo sticks crossed and tied to- gether, are laid before the fortune teller, who begins to pray aloud. The sticks begin to dance when the spirits begin to speak. You wouldn't be able to see them move, but the superstitious Ainu are very sharp- Mysteeious Little Japanese Primitives 393 eyed, and they can see the sticks dance around, or, at least, profess to see them do so. The fate of the person whose fortune is being told is indicated by the movements of these sticks. A GRASPING AINU BABY. The youngest of the Ainu at the fair was two years old. Her name was Kinu. Kinu is the Ainu name for Chrysanthemum. Kinu looked more like a Japanese doll than a baby. She had a disposition that soon won the admiration of visitors to the Indian building, and it was feared that she would be a spoiled baby before the exposition ended. There was something in the characteristics of Kinu that caused visi- tors to marvel. She was a keen observer and amazingly quick at con- ception. Apparently she had a longing to become the possessor of every- thing she saw. There was a time a few years ago when Kinu and her parents would have been brought to the United States in fur clothing, had the commissioner been able to persuade them to leave their native island at that time, but of recent years the tribe has made advances in civiliza- tion and now wear clothing similar to the Japanese, which race they resemble in some respects. ST. LOUIS AINU POLITE AND CLEAN. The polite manners of the Ainu proved their chief mark of distinc- tion. There was some disappointment when the band of primitive folk arrived at St. Louis. They were the hairy Ainu, true enough, but they weren't man-eaters, dog-eaters or wild men. With their soft manner of expression, kindly bearing and uniform courtesy, however, this particular group of Ainu made a good name for themselves at the great exposition. Another disappointment in the Ainu was the cleanliness of this par- ticular group, but the arrival of the Patagonian giants forestalled pos- sible regrets in the public mind. The Patagonian giants are primitive folk and incidentally the dirtiest people on the globe. Bieing also quar- tered in the Indian building, the Patagonians made up for all the cleanli- ness of the hairy Ainu. AINU AND PATAGONIAN WOMEN CONTRASTED. Two women, one an Ainu from the northern part of Japan, the other 394 Mysterious Little Japanese Primitives the wife of a Patagonian chief, from the most southerly extremity of the Republic of Argentine, were ''next door neighbors" at the Louisiana Purchase Exposition. These women lived 10,000 miles apart before coming to the world's fair, and neither ever dreamed that such a person as the other existed. Neither of these women had the faintest idea that the world extended so far south or so far north; that there was a North Pole or a South Pole. Both constituted types of the most primitive of the world 's primitive folk. Both are called Indians, but there the simile ceases. The Ainu woman w^as industrious and had a good knowledge of the art of sewing. She wore pretty garments well knit, and colored with an eye for the artistic. The Patagonian woman wore skins i^laced together in an awkward fashion, and with all their original crudeness preserved. The Ainu woman had a kind disposition and smiled pleasantly when greeting the world's fair visitors. The Patagonian woman was sullen. The Patagonian was not so sullen to the strange woman from Japan. She saw in her an object of great curiosity, as did the Ainu in her dark sister from the South. Having languages distinctly foreign to each other, these primitive women found it difficult to promote a cordial visit, but with the char- acteristic of womankind, they soon succeeded in establishing social re- lations. During their stay at the fair the Ainu band surprised visitors by holding Christian religious exercises, and on one or two occasions at- tended service at an Episcopal church near by. CHAPTER XXVII. CHINA AT THE, WORLD'S FAIK Modeled After Imperial Summer Palace — In the Altar Room — Notables Aid the Prince — Future Emperor's Speech — Prince's Face Beamed With Happiness — Empress Dowager Donates Pictures to the Government — Chinese Village on the Pike. ESPLENDENT in the brilliantly colored silk and satin robes which a Chinese prince alone may wear, Prince Pu Lun, heir ap- parent to the throne of China, presided at the dedication of the Chinese pavilion at the world's fair. From that one circumstance may be best judged the interest taken by China in the Louisiana Purchase Exposition. Not only Chinese commissioners, aides and diplomatic attaches studied the fair from all standpoints and contributed all in their power to make it a success, but the future occupant of the dragon throne himself attended and was a close observer of everything there. Who can say what influence the exposition may have upon his prospective reign and, in consequence, upon the destinies of ancient Cathay? MODELED AFTER IMPEEIAL SUMMER PALACE. The Chinese pavilion at the fair was on the south side of Adminis- tration way, the second building east of Administration building. It was in three parts, and a duplicate of one of Prince Pu Lun's summer palaces. The gateway consisted of elaborately decorated arches surmounted by grotesque Chinese figures. Directly in front was a Chinese pagoda, and to the right a goldfish pond, a duplicate of the one at Prince Pu Lun's summer home in China. The pavilion itself was a one-story building in the Chinese style of architecture, with prominent Chinese gables, painted gray. In the cen- ter was a court, and within this a smaller building. At either side of the central building were retiring rooms. Visitors to the pavilion were received by Chinese servants in the 395 396 China at the World's Fair west retiring room, which contained a Chinese desk, a bamboo couch and a number of Chinese chairs in beautiful inlaid woods. The walls were of varnished wood, and hanging from them were a number of Chinese paintings, the largest of which was a picture of pink lotus flowers. IN THE ALTAE ROOM. The middle building was furnished in red and black furniture, the black furniture being of lacquer inlaid with mother-of-pearl. Some of the red furniture was inlaid with gold. An altar, on which rested a small god made of grayish metal, occupied the center of the room. In the east retiring room was a Chinese bed, wardrobe, washstand and chairs. The bed was gorgeously decorated, hundreds of mirrors being placed above the fringe about the top, and groups of paintings being hung above the canopy. The pillow was hard and was deco- rated. All of the furnishings were of the most costly materials and rare designs, and the building, though comparatively small, contained more articles of value than many of the larger foreign structures. For this reason visitors were not allowed to wander through the rooms, but were kept in parties and in charge of guides. NOTABLES AID THE PRINCE. Notable among the Chinese who assisted Prince Pu Lun at the open- ing festivities were Cheng-Tung Liang Cheng, Chinese minister at Washington, and Wong Kai Kah, Chinese Vice Imperial Commissioner to the world's fair. Each wore native official costume, according to his rank. The ceremonies attending the dedication were marked by an inter- change of international compliments and toasts to the Emperor of China and President Roosevelt. The strange Oriental rooms of the building, decorated in the rare splendor of Imperial China, were thronged with distinguished men and women fashionably attired for the occasion. The Hall of State, the chief room of the building, was crowded when President Francis rapped for order. As soon as quiet was restored Prince Pu Lun, who had been the center of a group of beautiful society woman, spoke his address to Wong Kai Kah, who in turn translated it to the assemblage. China at the World's Fair 397 FUTUBE EMPEEOE S SPEECH. Prince Pn Lun said : ' ' President Francis and officers of the Exposition : As a representa- tive of the Chinese Government, I desire to thank you for this great enterprise, which, uniting all nations, brings us closer together in a social and commercial way. Our Government hopes that the St. Louis exposition may be the result of arousing a more sincere international feeling between China and the United States. ''It is entirely due to the kind offices of the officials of the exposi- tion and the people of St. Louis that the Chinese building is now com- pleted and is ready to be thrown open to the public. "As the representative of China and the Chinese Commission, I desire to express most sincere thanks to the officers of this great world 's fair and to the peo^Dle of St. Louis and the United States at large. ' ' PEINCe's FACE BEAMED WITH HAPPINESS. President Francis replied: ''China was one of the first great nations to signify its intention to participate in the exposition, and the extent of that participation is the greatest which China has ever attempted. This beautiful building in which we meet to-day is an ornament to the site on which it is con- structed, and a credit to the great Government which built it. "In the name of the Exposition Company and the Government of the United States, I desire to express our most sincere obligations, and I hope that this exposition may serve to strengthen the commercial rela- tions and bring about a closer relationship and better acquaintance which will increase our mutual respect." President Francis's speech was then translated to Prince Pu Lun, and as he understood its purport his face beamed with happiness. With a gracious smile he bowed to President Francis and the latter acknowl- edged the salute by a similar gesture. The prince wore a yellow jacket and a hat set with rubies, both being permitted only in the royal family. In addition there was the far-famed royal peacock feather. He wore a red sash that had been presented to him by the Emperor of Japan when the prince was at Tokyo. His bloomers were short enough to show his boots. 398 China at the World's Fair EMPRESS DOWAGER DONATES PICTURES TO THE GOVERNMENT. In connection with this imperial building a pretty little courtesy was shown the United States by the action of the Empress Dowager of China in donating the pictures displayed within to the government at the close of the fair. These included a series of portraits of herself wonderfully worked. CHINESE VILLAGE ON THE PIKE. In addition to the departmental exhibits China was appropriately represented on the Pike. The Chinese Village there was an attraction provided by an association of Chinese merchants of Philadelphia. It consisted of a Chinese theater with native players; a joss house, with a guide to explain the significance of the religious rites and symbols; a tea house, with native waiters, and an extensive bazaar with a popula- tion of native merchants, mechanics, painters, and decorators working with their fingers as they have done from time immemorial in the Celes- tial Empire. Silk weavers delved at the same looms which were spun by their ancestors thousands of years ago, ivory carvers were at work making small elephants, dogs and cats, native players appeared in a genuine drama of Cathay, and a guard in the uniform of a Chinese soldier pre- served order in the enclosure. The production was a vast hive of sounds, with wares otfered in the persuasive pigeon English of the arti- san from Canton, Foo Chow, or Hong Kong. CHAPTER. XXVIII. ART AS E,XPRE,SSED AT THE FAIR Comprehensive Classification of Art — Industrial Art Recognized as Fine Art — A Step Forward at the Chicago Exposition — Grand Open-Air Sculpture at the St. Louis Exposition — Wonderful Characteristic Figures — Art Still Survives Modern Commer- cialism — Belgium's Complete Exhibit of Later-Day Masters — The Land of Painters — Emile A. Vautier and Belgian Art — Sharp Contrasts in Subjects and Treatment — The Painters Know Country and People — Character as Expressed in Hands — Magnificent French Landscapes and Heroic Figures — Death and the Woodchopper — House of the Madonna — Bouguereau and Other Modern French Masters. ART is a broad term as applied to the Louisiana Purchase Exposi- tion. Art's manifestations there were infinite and various. The field is inclusive, as is the period— contemporaneous and retro- spective. In its largest meaning, art is the substance and the finish of the whole. It is the creation of art-producers and over it is the gloss of art; the highest development of the constructive and decorative. COMPREHENSIVE CLASSIFICATION OP AET. In a narrow sense, "art" centered in the Art Department, which, how^ever had a classification more comprehensive than given by any previous exposition. The classification effaced the distinction hereto- fore setting off ''fine art" from ''industrial art." It embraced all so- termed art work— upon canvas, in marble, plaster, wood, metal, glass, porcelain, textile and other materials. "All art work," as Professor Halsey C. Ives has stated, "in which the artist-producer has worked with conviction and knowledge is recog- nized as equally deserving of respect in proportion to its worth from the standpoints of inspiration and technique." In this classification a special group was included for the exhibition of art work in glassware, earthenware, metal, leather, wood and textiles, and even examples of artistic bookbinding. No feature of the Louisiana Purchase Exposition was better calcu- lated to call attention to the progress which the world has made in the 399 400 Art as Expressed at the Fair last decade, and to the greatness of the exposition which aimed to mirror this progress than tlie exhibits which more than twenty countries con- tributed to the Palace of Fine Arts, and artists and laymen agree that the exhibition of works of art will go down in history as having eclipsed those at Chicago in 1893, and at Paris in 1900. INDUSTRIAL ART RECOGNIZED AS FINE ART. At Chicago and at Paris the term ''fine art" was construed to mean only the work of the sculptor, who essays to copy nature in marble or bronze, or the painter who essays to transfer nature to canvas, but the Commissioners of the Louisiana Purchase Exposition decided to make the exhibit in the Palace of Fine Arts broader in its scope, and to include what has been termed industrial art or applied art. This classification had never been made at any international exposition, but it was believed that the great advancement in artistic craftsmanship, which has marked the last ten years, was deserving of recognition, and in the Palace of Fine Arts were shown not only painting and statuary, but original objects of workmanship in which art is applied to decoration in materials above mentioned. For the exhibition of industrial art special galleries were provided, and this addition did not in any manner interfere with the exhibition of paintings and statuary. A step forward at the CHICAGO EXPOSITION. A step in the direction of recognizing industrial art as fine art was made at Chicago, where it was contended that all art work without regard to the media of its expression should be regarded as fine art in. ])roportion to its strength in inspiration and in technique, but the con- ditions were not ripe for this broadening of the definition of fine art, and it resulted only in Japan being allowed to exhibit certain examples of applied art and in exhibits of pottery being admitted in the French and American sections. In the exhibition in the Palace of Fine Arts at St. Louis, Japan, England, France, Grermany, Holland, Belgium, Aus- tria and other countries co-operated to adequately represent artistic craftsmanship, and an opportunity to compare the results attained by American art workers with the work of those of other countries was afforded. During the last few years many societies have been organized by art workers and this feature of the exhibit appealed to a large class. 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FOREIGN BUILDINGS AND EXHIBITS Gobelin Tapestries in the French Pavilion— Wisp of Napoleon's Hair— Germany's Build- ing, a Second Charlottenburg Castle — The Emperor's Presents Exhibited^Model Ger- man Country Home — Orangery of Kensington Palace Reproduced- Description of the British Building— Ireland on the Pike — Old Eoman Architecture of Italian Building- Morocco First Represented at an Exposition — Sweden's Building Described — Domestic Exhibits in Holland's Pavilion— Queen Wilhelmina's Skates and Dolls— Windmills in Famous Delft Ware — Belgium's Old Flemish Building— New Zealand at the Fair- Austria's Exposition Building— Magnificent Uniform of Hungarian Commissioner. NEARLY all foreign countries of any consequence were represented at tlie Louisiana Purchase Exposition by buildings in wbicb were contained more or less unique exhibitions not to be seen elsewhere. For instance, priceless Gobelin tapestries that during the reign of Louis XIV hung on the walls of the Grand Trianon at Versailles, were sus- pended on the walls of the historic palace's replica, which was the French Government's pavilion at the world's fair. GOBELIN TAPESTRIES IN THE PEENCH PAVILION. The tapestries were brought to St. Louis from the Garde Meuble Museum, in Paris and were used for the decoration of the Hall of State, which was furnished entirely in the style of the time of the Grand Mon- arch, even to the candelabra and the door and window fittings. Although silk and metal alone were used in the weaving of the tapes- tries, so exquisite is the work on them that they have all the appearance of paintings. Woven into the fabric, at the bottom of each of the costly hangings, was the title of the scene represented on it. The scenes were as follows: Coats of arms of Louis XIV, siege of Douay, in 1666, when a cannon ball shot from the beleaguered city killed a horse of the bodyguard of the King as he emerged from a trench; an audience given by Louis at Fontainebleu to Cardinal Chigi, nephew and ambassador of Pope Alexandria XII, July 29, 1664 ; entry of Louis XIV into Dunkirk, December 12, 1662, after wresting the city from the English. 433 434 Foreign Buildings and Exhibits WISP OF napoleon's hair in a glass case. To view these treasures in this transplanted duplicate of the great Napoleon 's favorite residence was in itself an inspiring experience. The hairs of Napoleon Bonaparte's head were numbered with the Napo- leonic trophies shown. A little wisp of the famous Corsican's hair was contributed by Mrs. Archibald Hopkins of Washington, D. C. It is an heirloom from her grandfather, Edward Everett, who secured it from Lucien Bonaparte while United States minister to England. The Napoleon hair was encased in a small glass case, as it is highly treasured. It is quite light, with a red tinge. This is explained by the fact that time frequently changes the color of dark hair, often giving it a light, reddish appearance. SIMPLE DEDICATION OF FRENCH PAVILION. There was something particularly striking in the simple dedication of the beautiful miniature palace on ground once the property of France. Commissioner-General Lagrave officiated and the ceremony was attended by 300 French workmen and mechanics and the French commissioners to the fair. K. Lagrave addressed the workmen, thanking them for their labors and alluding to the fact that the fair was built on soil once owned by France, and that the French building occupied one of the most choice sites at the exposition. The latter victory he toasted, and all the French party assembled drank to their building site in champagne. They then burst loyally into singing the ''Marseillaise." Not only was the French pavilion in itself a beautiful sight, but the same was true of the spacious grounds surrounding it, contributing a soothing, restful atmosphere. These grounds were 15 acres in extent. Only one jarring note marred the installation of this appropriate con- tribution to the architecture of the exposition. Vandals entered the French pavilion at the dead of night, before it was thrown open to the public, and smashed two of the most beautiful of the Parisian marble figures in the sculpture exhibit. ''L'Etoile du Berger" (The Shep- herd's Star), done by Eousel, and one of the most exquisite pieces in the exhibit, was thrown to the floor and destroyed, as was the "St. Jean" of Dubois. FoEEiGN Buildings and Exhibits 435 The French had also to complain to the exposition management of the theft of several beautiful imported rose trees from their garden. GERMANY ^S BUILDING A SECOND CHAELOTTENBURG CASTLE. Overlooking the main picture of the exposition and a conspicuous figure from every part of the grounds was the magnificent structure designed by Emperor William to represent Germany at the world 's fair. It was located well up on a large hill, from the crest of which leapt the beautiful Cascades and about which were clustered the most important landscape -features. The imposing building was a partial reproduction of the famous Charlottenburg castle, erected by Frederick I of Prussia at the close of the seventeenth century. Surrounding it an exact dupli- cate of the Charlottenburg gardens stretched away, styled after photo- graphs of the original and containing many rare plants and shrubs bor- rowed from the original garden near Berlin. Two stories were con- tained in the main facade of the castle, and towering one hundred and fifty feet above arose a graceful dome, equipped with chimes, which could be heard over a large portion of the grounds. THE EMPEROR ^S PRESENTS EXHIBITED. Nearly all the furniture and furnishings were of great historic value and were loaned by the German Emperor. A special train was char- tered to transport the treasures to St. Louis on their arrival at New York. They included fifty-two enormous boxes, seventeen of which con- tained solid silver articles which were presented to the German Emperor on the occasion of his marriage, February 27, 1881. Among the most noted pieces was a table ornament representing a sailing vessel, symbolic of the united cities of Prussia tendering con- gratulations. This piece weighed 200 pounds. In addition to this there were two large candelabra, with seventeen branches each, two wine coolers and two bumpers with allegories of the goddess of hunting. This silver is used only at the German court at great functions, and is seldom otherwise displayed. The four rooms of the pavilion contained furniture which for the last 200 years has been kept in the Castle of Charlottenburg, and was the property of the first Prussian King, Frederick I. 436 Foreign Buildings and Exhibits the olbeich pavilion, or model country home. Of scarcely less interest was the Olbricli pavilion— also a Grerman contribution to the fair— located in the court of the Palace of Varied Industries. This structure was absolutely modern and built after origi- nal ideas. The idea was conceived by Professor Joseph Olbrich of Darmstadt. It is best described as the country home of a rich man, who is a lover of art and spares no expense to gratify his tastes. The house was built so as to serve as a summer and winter home. The different rooms were finished and furnished by various German firms. Each room was completed after the idea of the artist who designed it. Even the slightest details of the artist were followed, such as new and unique designs for flower pots and match safes. The builder was not permitted to change the plans in the slightest degree. A REFRESHING RESTING SPOT. Built around a large court with rippling fountains playing around beautiful statuary, basins of sparkling water surrounded by green grass, shrubbery and blooming flowers, was a large porch which extended around three sides of the court. The rooms of the house opened onto the porch. All of them were finished with richly inlaid woods, preserv- ing their native colors. The walls were decorated with silk and satin, richly blended with the woods. The colors were perfectly harmonious, although two shades of the same color were often used in producing the desired effects. The rare statuary scattered about the pavilion was the property of the Grand Duke of Hesse and he loaned it to the German Commission for use in the Olbrich Pavilion. Prince and Princess Hohenlohe-Schil- lingfuerst were the guests of honor at the dedication ceremonies. ORANGERY OF KENSINGTON PALACE REPRODUCED. The main part of the British Building at the exposition and its main hall were a reproduction of the Orangery or banqueting hall in Ken- sington Palace, London, where the late Queen Victoria was born, where she received notification of her accession to the throne, met the Prince Consort and was wooed by him. The Orangery was originally designed for a greenhouse, and since it was built, two hundred years ago, has never been surpassed as a speci- Foreign Buildings and Exhibits 437 men of garden architecture. It was not only a treasure house for Queen Victoria's choicest plants and flowers, but a place where the Queen and her favored attendants delighted to retire and indulge in quiet confer- ence or in a dainty luncheon. DESCEIPTION or THE BRITISH BUILDING. The reproduction at the world's fair occupied a space of 170 feet 3 inches by 122 feet. The banqueting hall extended the entire length of the building. It was 24 feet wide and was terminated at either end by a beautiful circular apartment 24 feet in diameter. The interior of this hall, which was also a reproduction of that in London, showed fluted, engaged Corinthian columns around the walls, supporting a highly ornate cornice. All the outside columns were Doric with transverse channelings. Niches for statues broke up the wall surface of the ban- queting hall. Behind the banqueting hall was an inner court inclosed on four sides. A Doric colonnade of ten high columns closed the court on one side, while the building formed three sides of the enclosure. In the court fountains and statuary were lavishly displayed. The building was, therefore, developed on eight facades, four interior and four exterior. The court facades showed plain colonial windows with green shutters. The building was a low structure, rising only 40 feet above the ground at its highest point. Its mass ornamentations were a number of gables forming pleasing hipped roofs. The roofing material was blue slate. Practically the only sculptural decoration of the structure was a gigantic British shield, which occupied a tympanum above the colon- nade inclosing one side of the court. IRELAND ON THE PIKE. Twenty beautiful Irish colleens, accompanied the most famous brass band in Ireland and numerous other natives of Ireland, to the total num- ber of 137, made up the living features of the Irish Industrial Exhibi- tion at the world's fair, which had perhaps the choicest location of the Pike. It was Ireland's first great effort to make a separate national showing. Amid appropriate and picturesque surroundings, 233 varying exhibits were shown, covering a broad field of endeavor. The exhibit 438 Foreign Buildings and Exhibits of the historical antiquities of Ireland was the most comprehensive that has ever heen made at an international exposition. OLD ROMAN ARCHITECTURE OF ITALIAN BUILDING. As a unique novelty in the way of a government pavilion Italy repro- duced a bit of old Eoman architecture, trimmed in stately balustrades and affording a garden such as has inspired artists' and poets' dreams. Standing high above the garden level, the pavilion was reached by a broad and graceful flight of stairs. Standards, crowned with bronzed victories, towered on either side of the entrance. The garden in front of the building was flanked at the sides by a high wall. The pavilion was used in part for the commissioners' offices and the entertainment of Italian visitors and distinguished guests. Italian con- certs were given there, too. Entrance to the pavilion was through a peristyle of Ionic columns. The walls and colonnade were elaborately treated with porcelain entablatures, broken at intervals with pylons car- rying spouting fountains. WONDERFUL EXHIBIT OF HANDICRAFT. Italy's million dollar exhibit of handicraft in the Palaces of Manu- factures and Varied Industries constituted its chief bid for attention at the fair. In the Palace of Varied Industries were shown ceramics, glass- ware, wrought-iron, and mosaics. In the Palace of Manufactures could be seen beautiful marble statuary, bronzes, carved furniture, silks and laces from the sunny land. Eomanelli was represented by several examples of his wonderful studies of the nude. Fazzi's "Flight of the Bacchante," Garellos "Four Seasons," "Sensualita" by Frille, and "Sweet Dreams" by Albani, were other notable examples exhibited. The famous collection of urns and statues of the Pompeian museum at Naples was shown in its entirety. It was sold almost as soon as exhib- ited to an Eastern admirer at a price in excess of $50,000. MOROCCO FIRST REPRESENTED AT AN EXPOSITION. Morocco's building was one that attracted many visitors. One of the chief exhibits consisted of fifty of the finest Arabian steeds direct from the Sultan's stables. A company of Bedouins and Shieks were on hand to show the manners of the Moots. In the palace was shown a display FoKEiGN Buildings and Exhibits 439 of fine laces and embroideries, which constitutes the chief manufacturing industry. Morocco was represented officially for the first time at any exposition, her exhibit being secured through the efforts of Mr. J. W. S. Langerman, former United States Consul to Tangiers, and Special Com- missioner of the Sultan to the Louisiana exposition. dedication of SWEDISH PAVILION. Sweden's contribution to the Louisiana Purchase Exposition, a beau- tiful pavilion made after plans of old Swedish architecture, occupied a conspicuous position in Administration avenue, where it was one of the few frame structures to be seen. At the dedicatory exercises Ferdinand Boberg of Stockholm, archi- tect of the building, hoisted the Swedish flag, and in a brief speech pre- sented the pavilion to the Swedish representatives at the world's fair. The Reverend C. J. Eeinhard of St. Louis responded in behalf of the local Swedish representatives. He spoke in the Swedish tongue and expressed the thanks of the Swedish colony to Mr. Boberg for the work that he and his assistants had accomplished. Sweden's building desceibed. The pavilion was erected by an organization composed of residents of America and Sweden. The large main room of the building was fur- nished as a library. Large tables and leather chairs, maroon in color, were used. A life-sized bust of King Oscar II of Sweden and Norway was placed just opposite the doorway, and Swedish pottery and chinaware were used to decorate the room. The electric light fittings of the pavilion were particularly beauti- ful. They were of gold and crystal. The gold formed a large circle, which was set with crystal light globes, a large one in the center and eight smaller ones about it. The ceiling was of white. Its border contained the name of ''Swe- den" and "Sverige," the old name of Sweden, separated from each other by the lions of Norway and the three crowns of Sweden. domestic exhibits in Holland's building. Holland's modest pavilion was fitted throughout with products of the country it represented. It occupied the site opposite the Adminis- 440 FoBEiGN Buildings and Exhibits tration building, abandoned by Russia on account of the war. Hol- land's principal display was in the Fine Arts building. QUEEN WILHELMINa's SKATES AND DOLLS. With Queen Wilhelmina 's skates, a large collection of paper doll dresses and dolls dressed in Dutch costume, such as the Queen once used, the Holland exhibit in the Manufactures building especially interested children, while their elders found something to their taste in the cream cheese, cocoa and coffee that were shown by Holland in the Palace of Agriculture. The skates were of a special pattern made by the skatemakers to Her Majesty, who spends most of her time on the ice during the winter months. They had quaintly curved ends and were elaborately orna- mented with gold scroll work. Many of the paper dolls and some of the Dutch costumed ones are copies of those in Queen Wilhelmina 's private collection, and they were shown at St. Louis for the first time. Every style of Dutch festal dress was illustrated, and as far as possible the ornaments worn by Dutch women were shown in miniature. One of the most interesting exhibits was that of the Baltic works, in which a new process for painting on silk was shown. It is on the order of pyrography, and is nothing like the old Kensington pen work that was formerly the rage. WINDMILLS IN FAMOUS DELFT WARE. Windmills along the banks of the canals were shown in sectional tiles of the familiar delft ware for the decoration of which typical Dutch scenes were selected. Van der Steen of Amsterdam exhibited modern gold and silver jew- elry, while ancient pieces, including full sets of many famous spoons, were displayed by Otto Braakman. Amsterdam's chief industry is diamond cutting and the exhibit included a large collection of diamonds in the rough which skilled lapi- daries cut and polished, forming one of the most valuable working dis- plays at the fair. Foreign Buildings and Exhibits 441 BELGIUM S OLD FLEMISH BUILDING. Not even the ten principal palaces attracted more public attention than the pavilion erected by Blelgium, a magnificent piece of old Flem- ish architecture. It was a large and imposing structure, with wide, inviting entrances and a towering dome. Standing at the head of Administration avenue it faced three of the main thoroughfares of the exposition, and was approached from as many directions. It was the first building east of the Administration building, directly at the foot of Administration hill. The structure was built of steel brought from Antwerp. It was of a substantial character, and after the world's fair was taken apart and rebuilt for the exposition at Liege, Belgium. It attracted attention prin- cipally because its great sides, without windows, were covered with interesting mural paintings. These depicted Belgium's industrial activ- ity and participation in international affairs. NEW ZEALAND AT THE FAIR. When the New Zealand commission to the fair returned home upon the completion of its duties, it carried with it a herd of fine elk, the gift of President Roosevelt to New Zealand. The President's gift was the result of his interest in the country. New Zealand's exhibit in the Palace of Forestry, Fish and Game consisted of a splendid collection of trophies of the chase, wild boar heads, a fine exhibit of Kauri gum, from which varnish is made, and an interesting display of photographs and paintings of Maori life in New Zealand. The New Zealand exhibit in the Palace of Agriculture was also worthy of note. Woolen blankets, finely worked robes, New Zealand grasses, hemp and such cereals as corn, wheat, barley, peas, beans and hops were displayed. AUSTRIA ^S EXPOSITION BUILDING. Austria's building at the fair was distinctly Viennese, and the only sample of the art nouveau among the foreign buildings. It was first built in Austria, taken to pieces and reconstructed after its arrival at the exposition. It included thirteen salons, one for each of the govern- 442 FoEEiGN Buildings and Exhibits mental departments, in which special exhibits were made. It was sur- rounded by gardens and embelished with sculpture. MAGNIFICENT UNIFORM OF HUNGARIAN COMMISSIONER. It was in the magnificence of its personal representatives that the dual throne of southern and eastern Europe attracted most attention. Of all the foreign uniforms worn by the representatives of European and other countries that of Dr. George de Szogyeny, commissioner of Hungary, attracted the most admiration. The garments were of silk and gold, inlaid with jewels worth $6,000, and decorated in the most elabo- rate fashion. White trousers, close-fitting to the commissioner's legs, were embroidered in old Hungarian style, and the "mente," a sort of garment hanging from one shoulder, was made of heavy damask and silk, richly inlaid with old family jewels. The whole costume, the com- missioner's secretary said, was worth $7,000, while the sword alone rep- resented a value of $500. The magnificent uniform was a relic of the old Hunnish days and a fine example of almost ^'barbaric splendor," albeit the Hungarians have long since been recognized as among the most virile and pro- gressive of European peoples. With all their intelligence and de- veloped traits of several centuries of European culture, they still retain some of that savage spirit which, as Oriental invaders, once made them the dread of the ¥/est; hence, the persistency with which they have retained their racial unity in the dual empire. chapte:r XXXI. FOREIGN COUNTRIES AT THE FAIR Unique Brazilian Feather Exhibit — Reproduction of Famous Agra Tomb — Canadian Gov- ernment Pavilion — Mexico's Building, in Spanish Renaissance Style — An Elaborate Social Event — A Well- Appointed Cuban Dwelling Reproduced — Nicaragua's Tiny Gem of a Building — Guatemala's Coffee, Fruit and Woods — Cingalese Cabinets of Precious Woods — Illumination, Old and New — Argentine Republic's Official Building — Rare Old Wines of Portugal — Siam's Temple at the Fair — Burma and Her Sly Elephant, Mary — Other Visitors from Afar — Russia's Embarrassing Plight. THERE was not a more beautiful building on the exposition grounds than that erected by Brazil. Its location was practically the same as Belgium's, immediately to the south of the latter. It was surmounted by several domes, one rising to a height of 132 feet. TJlSriQUE BEAZILIAN FEATHER EXHIBIT. Feathers formed an important part of the Brazilian exhibit. They were not shown in the ordinary way, but were made into flowers and placed in baskets and bouquets. Col. F. M. de Souza Aguiar, Commissioner General from Brasiil, thus explained the feather exhibit made from his country : "It is the work of Eio Janeiro women. No other than women could do that delicate work. They take the feathers of the humming bird, which has a most beautiful plumage in our country, and also the feath- ers of the parrot. With these they make fans and flowers. "The fans are not carried by Brazilian women. They are used for the decoration of rooms. For the leaves of the flowers, they take fish scales. The result is wonderful and beautiful." EEPEODUCTION OF FAMOUS AGRA TOMB. Distant India was represented by a somber yet inspiring reproduc- tion of the tomb of Etmad-Dowlah, which occupied a site near the Phil- ippine reservation, at the rear of the Forestry, Fish and Game building. The original of this tomb at Agra, India, has many of the bulbous dome 443 444 .POEEIGN COUNTEIES AT THE FaIE accessories which have made a world-wide reputation for the Taj Mahal at the same place. These were faithfully reproduced at the fair. In the pavilion, samples of tea, coffee, cardamom and pepper were served by the natives. The interior furnishings were typical of East Indian life. Many historic relics hoarded by the ancient races were displayed in the decorations. Plant life as it exists in India was demonstrated in the gardens, specimens having been brought from the burial places of India's ancient royalty. CANADIAN GOVERNMENT PAVILION, Our national neighbor on the North, Canada, was represented by a spacious club-house, located half way between Agriculture Palace and the Forestry, Fish and Game building, and directly opposite the National pavilion of Ceylon. More than $30,000 was devoted by the Canadian government to the erection of the building and beautifying the grounds. No exhibits were made in the pavilion. The furnishings were appropriately reminiscent of the Dominion, however. Commissioner General Hutchinson's official home was made at the Canadian building, where he proved a hospitable host to visiting Canadians and, in fact, to all comers. MEXICO 'S BUILDING IN SPANISH RENAISSANCE STYLE. A fine showing was made by our national neighbor to the south. Mexico's pavilion was two stories high, designed in the style of the Spanish Renaissance. The windows of the lower story were of stained glass. Those of the upper floor were photographic negatives, showing cathedrals, monuments, palaces, parks and delightful examples of scen- ery in Mexico. A large picture of President Diaz in stained glass was one of the many features. In the center of the pavilion was a patio, always a feature of Mexican architecture. Cacti and plants, common to Mexico, were used in beautifying this court and the grounds about the pavilion. The first floor was devoted to a public reception room, read- ing room, telegraph office, and other apartments. On the second story were rooms for the Mexican Commission, for the press correspondents, etc. AN ELABORATE SOCIAL EVENT. A ball and reception, which constituted one of the most elaborate affairs held on the exposition grounds marked the opening of the Mexi- Foreign Countries at the Fair 445 can building. Included in the invitation list were all the exposition officials, all state and foreign commissioners to the world's fair and many Washington diplomats. Mayor Wells and many city officials, as well as prominent citizens of St. Louis, who were not connected with the world's fair, were present. Senor Azpiroz, Mexican Ambassador to Washington, who was the guest of honor, was accompanied by his wife, two daughters and a son. His daughters are conspicuous in ofScial Washington society. Mexico's booth in the Palace of Liberal Arts greatly interested the visitors to the building. Displays of drugs, perfumes and dental work were among the features of the Mexican exhibit. A large collection of photographs and architectural drawings was also shown. A well-appointed CUBAN DWELLING REPRODUCED. This healthy national youngster and protege of Uncle Sam was on hand at the fair with a building typically Cuban. It was a reproduction of a well-appointed dwelling of the present day in the city of Havana, with a tower at one corner, rising to a height of forty-eight feet. The structure was surrounded by a portico twenty feet wide. Above was a promenade always thronged on pleasant evenings. Nicaragua's tiny gem of a building. Nicaragua had the unique distinction of presenting the smallest building in the international group. The tiny structure was almost com- pletely hidden in a garden filled with luxuriant tropical vegetation. A patio, or court, gave it a tropical character noticeable in the pavil- ions of other southern countries. The lower floor of the building was devoted to a large hall, for exhibits, and the upper section was used for a State room and apartments for the commissioners. Vegetation brought from the Isthmus and replanted by native gardeners gave it a tropical atmosphere. The Nicaraguan Commission included Doctor Leopoldo E. Eamirez, Chief Commissioner; Eosendo Eubio, secretary, and Senors Alejandro Bermudez and Juan Eslaya, with fifty other Nicaraguans employed in various capacities. Doctor Eamirez is Minister of Public Works of Nicaragua and has been Minister of War and Ambassador to Honduras, 446 Foreign Countries at the Fair guatemalans coffee^ feuit and woods. This little Central American republic had an excellent display in charge of Senor Manuel M. Jeron. It included 300 bales and boxes con- sisting largely of coffee, which was shown in all its grades and in all its •stages of growth. There were also many kinds of fruit, Guatemalan mahogany, cedar and 178 other woods and a large exhibit of Indian work, as well as several quetzals, or birds of paradise. CINGALESE CABINETS OF PRECIOUS WOODS. Ceylon's building at the world's fair was the repository of probably the two most valuable pieces of furniture on the grounds. The pieces were two cabinets of precious wood and rare carving, the combined val- ues of which amounted to over $3,000. The cabinets constituted only a small part of the show things that abounded in the Ceylon court. One of them was of ebony, beautifully carved in design, representing the flora, fauna and humankind of the island. It is the property of a lady of Ceylon residing in London and was loaned for exhibition. It is valued at $1,750. The other was of calamander wood, one of the rarest kinds of pre- cious wood in the island, and it was also exquisitely carved. This cab- inet was purchased by the Government of the island for exhibition at St. Louis and was valued at about the same amount as the other cabinet. Both pieces of furniture are the handiwork of Cingalese artisans. ILLUMINATION, OLD AND NEW. The oldest and the newest in light were combined in the illumination of the Ceylon building. Lamps hundreds of years old blazed forth with electricity. A large number of ancient lamps, closely resembling the Eoman and Egyptian in their designs, were displayed at the Ceylon building. They" were placed where they could be seen to the best advantage in the build- ing and at the same time contribute as much as possible to its illumina- tion. They were wired and instead of the feeble flame for which they were made they scattered the rays of the electric light of the twentieth century. CEYLON TEA. A quantity of quaint and pretty pottery painted by native artists was another feature of the exhibit. Tea was the principal display, how- Foreign Countries at the Fair 447 ever. The consumption of Ceylon tea has grown remarkahly in the last few years. Ten years ago the Ceylon product had practically no sale, while today one-fourth of the tea used comes from the islands. Natives made tea at all hours at the building and served it to tired visitors. ARGENTINE REPUBLIC'S OFFICIAL BUILDING. This enterprising South American republic reproduced the second and third stories of the government palace at Buenos Ayres as its official building. The structure was located north of the Administration build- ing and near the Austrian reservation. Tlie two stories of the building included a large central chamber, where receptions and exhibitions were held, and smaller rooms for the offices of the commissioners. RARE OLD WINES OF PORTUGAL. Rare old wines constituted Portugal's principal display. Some of the wine it was declared authoritatively was so old that the age of it has been forgotten, even by the owners, and in price it was the most costly wine ever imported to America. It was contained in quart bottles, and the actual value of the wine was $30 per quart. It was a wonderful wine, so the Portuguese commission- ers said, and one drink of it would place a man on the borders of the happy hunting grounds. Two drinks of the wine would make the im- biber believe himself a part owner of the earth, and three drinks make him feel greater and wealthier than J. Pierpont Morgan before the slump in United States steel. So tempting did the wine prove that $2,000 worth was stolen before the fair was two weeks old. A special detail had to be employed to guard it against depredations of connoisseurs. SIAm's TEMPLE AT THE FAIR. Siam reproduced as its official building Ben Chama Temple, an his- toric Siamese structure. It had an advantageous location between the Mexican and Nicaraguan pavilions. The building was shaped like a Greek cross, having four arms of equal length radiating from a center. It carried a high pitched roof, with a concave ridgepole like those on the Chinese buildings. This pole terminated in a pointed ornament, commonly seen on the temples of Siam. The interior consisted of one large apartment and a small room, used as the executive office. No posts 448 FoEEiGN Countries at the Fair marred the interior, the roof being carried on Siamese trusses of pecu- liar construction. BURMA AND HER SLY ELEPHANT, MARY. Eighty Burmese, accompanied by six elephants, represented that strange land. The elephants the Burmese brought with them were more satisfac- torily inspected from a safe distance, as they were insulated from infec- tion with American elephant diseases by a thick coat of loud-smelling grease. One of these pachyderms— Mary by name— created consternation upon her arrival. The first thing she was visited by United States cus- toms inspectors and they placed around her neck a nice, large tag, on which her name, age, birth and previous condition of servitude were inscribed, and also that she was a creature of bondage. It was tied with ribbons and bore a flashy red seal. Mary eyed the tag suspiciously at first and with growing resent- ment until she curled her trunk around, tore the tag from her neck and ate it. Something about the tag, the red seal or the allusion to bondage, irri- tated Mary and she began to make things unpleasant. She was chained to the floor of a freight car, but this did not feaze Mary, for she simply leaned her two tons of flesh against the side of the car, and, lo, there was no car. Then Mary laid in wait. A workman came by whistling blithely to his work. Mary reached out her proboscis and hit him on the coattails, and the workman made the end of the station platform in one jump. Near the car was an empty barrel, of which Mary possessed herself. She rolled it about and juggled it for awhile like a little girl playing with a rubber ball. A group of workmen stood on the edge of the station platform laugh- ing at her antics. Sly Mary. She let them watch and laugh for a few moments, when suddenly she got a good grip on the barrel and sent it spinning among them like a Jap torpedo running amuck in the Port Arthur squadron. It knocked them right and left and smashed the barrel into a pile of staves. EXHIBITOR FROM FAR CATHAY— Manager of China "s exhibit caught by the cam- era in a happy moment. Numerous Chinese officials were stationed at the fair, ranging in importance from prince to merchant. All became social favorites, this unusual oppor- tunity for intercourse revealing many delightful oriental characteristics. _ AINU MOTHER AND CHILD— Surprise is depicted on the countenance of this dusky- visitor from the wilds of Japan's northern islands, viewing for the first time the wonders- of the Occident after getting settled in the Ainu home camp in the exposition enclosure. AINU CHIEF AND PRAYER-POLE— This benign and religious veteran's daily de- votions proved a never ending source of wonder to visiting hosts at the exposition. The grotesque prayer-pole is shown with its customary fantastic decorations. TREE DWELLERS AT THE FAIR — Among other curiosities at' the St. Louis fair a number of tree dwellers were shown, living as they ordinarily do in the tops of tall trees» The lofty habitation depicted was occupied by a family of tribesmen from Java. KAFIR WOMAN AND CHILD — There was no prouder woman at the exposition than this little mother with her kinky hair, shiny skin and earnest face Far from their Afri- can home, she was an interested observer of all that fell withm the range of her wide- open eyes. THEIR FIRST SNOW— Shortly after the arrival of the Filipinos, before the open- ing of the fair, an unusually late fall of snow surprised them. To the astonishment of beholders they rushed forth to eat the rare deposit. It was the first snow they had ever seen. TWO FASHION PLATES— Here are shown Datto Facimdo,' the Berry Wall of the Mandanaos, in fancy dress, and Sumlia, leader of the feminine ''400," in their most cherished garbs. The couple are excellent types of Filipino "swells" and hugely en- joj^ed displaying their bright clothes. JAPANESE CARPENTERS AT WORK AT THE FAIR — These nimble little fellows were to be encountered everywhere during the early days of the exposition. Working with marvelous dexterity, they transformed bare and dreary places into fairy bowers. Few artisans can compare with the Japs for speed or the artistic finish they give their task. FOEEIGN COUNTKIES AT THE FaIR 457 Mary's fiery Indian temper was allowed to simmer in the car until she digested her tag and the government seal, when she was taken to her new summer home on the world's fair grounds. Once there she seemed to realize the dignity of her position and remained on good behavior throughout the exposition. OTHEE VISITORS FROM AFAR. Australia had a fine display of her mining and agricultural products ; Ethiopia of her people, rich ivory and other products ; there were Boers and British from South Africa; 100 Persians; a party of Tibetans whom Kipling terms the best soldiers on earth, and a party of Afghans. With them were zebras, snakes and other domestic animals. A party of Soudanese from Africa formed another interesting study. RUSSIANS EMBARRASSING PLIGHT. As is generally known, Russia withdrew from official participation with the advent of war, relinquishing the space that had been granted her and abandoning great chests and casks of rich exhibits already for- warded to St. Louis. \ The Division of Exhibits was requested by an unofficial commission of prominent Eussian artists and manufacturers to allot the original space given to the Eussian Government prior to its withdrawal from official participation in the fair. This could not be done, but the exposition allotted space in the Fine Arts, Varied Industries, Manufactures and Education palaces. The commission was headed by Prince Troubezkaye and was coir.- posed of some of the distinguished men of the Czar's Empire. It made a praiseworthy showing, in view of the embarrassments confronting it. In addition there was a very interesting Eussian exhibit on the Pike, due to the energy of the Criterion Concession Company and Ellis Glick- man, a Eussian- American actor of note. Aside from the excellent Impe- rial Eussian Opera Troupe, elsewhere described, the Trans-Siberian railway journey is well worth describing in connection with things Eus- sian at the fair. A TRIP TO SIBERIA. The '4rip" was taken in a real train of Pullman coaches, drawn by a real locomotive and including a modern car service, making one of the 458 Foreign Countries at the Fair most original features at the fair. Entering a Russian railway station at Moscow, the visitor bought his tickets and boarded the train, standing under a long shed. A seat was taken in one of four Pullman cars. The train started with all the motion of a genuine thing. The track shed glided away, the yards were passed, over bumping switches and short jerks. Then the open country landscape of Siberia ensued. Invisible blowers produced the effect of Eussian air. The motion of the flying train was perfect. The journey carried the passengers through Irkoutsk and various large Siberian cities. The train skirted Lake Baikal, where the horrors of war were most vividly portrayed during the Japanese campaign, when whole regiments were plunged through the ice and lost and frozen to death dur- ing the blinding blizzards of that region. The illusion was a dream of perspective and light. The beauty of Siberian scenery, known only to few American travelers, was rapidly unfolded as mile after mile of the running drops was passed at high speed. Stops were made at important cities and way-stations, when real life took the place of the plastic representations. It was for all the world as though the Piker was doing Russia instead of being delightfully hoodwinked at the exposition. After the journey was completed, a Eussian Village was visited. It was a live show connected with the illusion. Eussian life was very clev- erly portrayed by natives. At the end a Eussian theater afforded pro- ductions of native songs, dances, wedding ceremonies, and national music enacted by a troupe of forty players. CHAPTER XXXII. U. 5. GOVERNMENT EXHIBIT Details of the Govermnent Building — Moving Pictures and Stereopticons — Government Radium Display — Exhibit of Postofiice Department — Dead-Letter Office Exhibit- Complete Postoffice in Operation — Smithsonian Institution Display — Bellowing of a Blue Whale— Making Money While You Wait — An Intelligent Machine— After Forty Years His Wonder Grows— History of the United States Mint— War Department Dis- play — Splendid Naval Exhibit — Harbor Shown Fully Mined — Weather Forecasting Ap- paratus — Bureau of Animal Industry — U. S. Agriculture Experiment Station — Depart- ments of State and Justice — With the Fish Commission. &|^ ROM one end to the other the Government building was filled with -*• a resume of the intellectual activities of the nation such as could be seen nowhere else. Of all the buildings at the fair, that in which the United States Gov- ernment made its exhibit was found to be most complete on the opening day. The national officials had ordered it to be complete, and the orders were obeyed. DETAILS OF THE GOVERNMENT BUILDING. It was a stately, noble structure, admirably situated on the high ground overlooking the main picture at its east end. It faced directly on the transverse avenue and closed the vista in that direction. Its dome, the style of the Parthenon surmounted by a quadriga, 175 feet above the ground, was a conspicuous object outlined against the sky line. A grand stairway adorned with statues filled the left of the picture, giv- ing dignity to the composition. The great slope in front of the Government building was terraced with these stairways, almost completely covering the slope. The building was the largest ever provided at any exposition by the United States Govern- ment. The interior floor area was 175 by 724 feet, entirely free of columns. The roof was supported with 70-foot steel trusses 35 feet apart. South- west of the Government building was situated the United States Fish Commission building,, a square structure 135 feet long and wide. 459 460 U. S. GOVEKNMENT ExHIBIT On entering the north door almost every visitor involuntarily paused and glanced to the roof. The interior decoration with the national col- ors carried out in the red beams, blue ceiling and white window openings added to the majesty of the 880-foot building where the activities and progress of the government were shown. On the right of the visitor was the display of the Interior depart- ment, under which head were included exhibits from the public lands and the wards of the government, the Indians. MOVING PICTURES AND STEEEOPTICONS. The biograph and stereopticon exhibition of the Interior department exhibit in the Government building depicted scenes from Indian reserva- tions. National parks, and forest preserves shown by lantern slides and motion pictures. The exhibitions were given at 10:30 a. m. and 1, 2, 3 and 4 o'clock p. m. daily. Models demonstrated the daily life of the Indian in his savage state, while charts, transparencies and statistics showed his progress under the school system. In a corner of this exhibit was shown a crystal cave, the material of which came from Hot Springs, and which, according to the color of the light, seemed an endless vista of rubies, sapphires or dia- monds. Fifty barrels of rock crystals from Hot Springs were used in the dis- play. Every tip of crystal glowed with the brilliancy of a gem and the changing colored lights, coupled with mirrors, gave the Grotto the appearance of a vast cave of diamonds, emeralds, sapphires and rubies, according to the light. This exhibit was planned by Secretary C. F. Cooley of the Business Men's League of Hot Springs, and was erected in the Government exhibit by D. S. Clarke. GOVERNMENT RADIUM DISPLAY. The United States Geological Survey exhibited the most complete collection of radium compounds and radio-active substances of which the existent status of the study of the mysterious metal would permit. It was one of those displays small and hidden away by the magnitude of the fair, but one which, to those who care to seek it out, revealed the uttermost boundary to which the inquiry of science into the structure of matter has reached. U. S. Government Exhibit 461 These exhibits were general and varied in character. They included specimens of every known radio-active substance, whether obtained from minerals or ores, from mineral waters or from petroleum wells. Authentic specimens of radium compounds were also shown. Every- thing relating to the source, manufacture and application of radium was exhibited, including all chemicals obtained from the separation of various radium compounds, and all instruments and devices by which it is proposed to apply radio-activity in medicine, science and the arts. An interesting feature was the portraits and the publications of celebrated radium discoverers and investigators, together with photographs of their laboratories and apparatus, and autograph letters from some of them. Two convenient halls were set aside for demonstration of the won- ders of radium. In one was grouped the specimens of ores and minerals containing radium, and careful note was made of their effects upon vari- ous substances. In the other hall illustrated lectures were given tw!ce daily on a variety of subjects relating to the history of the discovery of radium, its nature and its possibilities. Its mode of occurrence, the methods used in separating it from radium ores, the concentration of its activities, and the manifold uses to which these remarkable radio-active substances may be put were all described. Cinematograph Hall was so arranged that it could be easily dark- ened, and different highly active specimens of radium compounds were exhibited in it as affecting the diamond, willemite, kunzite and other ladio-responsive substances. EXHIBIT OF POSTOFFICE DEPARTMENT, Across the main aisle was seen the postoffice display, including a working mail car with the clerks tossing the letters into the proper pig- eon hole or pouch with the rapidity that prevails on a car rolling 70 miles an hour over the railroads. From the burro that collects the mail in the mountains to the white trolley-car familiar to city dwellers, every link in the postoffice chain was complete in this exhibit. A valuable collection of old-time relics from the postoffice museum at Washington illustrated the crude beginnings of the postal system. One of these relics was an old-fashioned stage coach that formerly carried United States mails through a portion of the Louisiana Purchase terri- tory. President Eoosevelt, upon seeing it first, examined with a soldier 's interest the bullet holes which stage robbers and Indians shot through its 462 U. S. GovEENMENT Exhibit leather curtained sides. Generals Sherman and Sheridan and President Garfield rode in this old stage-coach in their strenuous days of frontier life. Even the type of ''mail wagon" used in Alaska sledges, pulled by dogs over the frozen snow, were shown in their collection. DEAD-LETTER OFFICE EXHIBIT. Another interesting feature was the display from the Dead-Letter Office museum, showing stray, tabooed articles found in the mails, rang- ing from infernal machines to living serpents, several of the latter being rattle-snakes concealed in innocent appearing packages, calculated to arouse no suspicion in the mind of the jeopardized recipient. Severe punishment is the penalty provided for such offenses. COMPLETE POSTOFFICE IN OPEEATION"., In connection with this department there was a complete postoffice in operation in the building for the accommodation of the thousands of world's fair officials, attaches and employes. There was also a special issue of world's fair stamps. The issue consisted of 90,000,000 of the 1-cent variety, 225,000,000 2s, 7,500,000 3s, 9,500,000 5s and 6,500,000 10s. The designs were all commemorative of the Louisana Purchase and were more beautiful than any special stamp ever issued by the Stamp Division. The postoffice had every facility for the transaction of money-order and registry business, the sale of postal supplies and the receipt and dis- patch of mails. SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION DISPLAY. A step forward on the left brought one to the Smithsonian Institu- tion. This was the exhibit of the National Museum and its choicest treasures were here shown. One was the skeleton of the "Sulphurbot- tom" or blue whale, a cast of which was installed in the building. The immense skeleton came in sections. The head, which was 2 feet long, and weighed two and one-half tons, came on a flat car, and when it was unloaded it was feared that a section of the wall would have to be removed to make room for it to be brought into the building, but it was finally gotten through the door without injury. The entire skeleton U. S. Go VEEN MEN T ExHIBIT 463 when articulated was 75 feet long and the whale when alive weighed approximately sixty-five tons. The whale was caught near Balena, on the south coast of Newfound- land, by a steam whaling vessel, which used a small cannon to fire a har- poon attached to a large cable. The capture of * ' sulphurbottoms " was extremely rare before the introduction of steam whalers and cannon into the whaling industry, as it was almost impossible to harpoon them by hand on account of their immense size. Although the jaws of a blue whale are strong enough to crush a strong boat to splinters, the animal subsists entirely upon a shell fish found in Northern waters, and is perfectly harmless except that should it accidentally ram even an iron-clad whaling vessel amidships, when swimming at the speed of twenty miles an hour, of which it is capable, the boat would be wrecked. BELLOWING OF A BLUE WHALE. F. A. Lucas of the Department of Comparative Anatomy, who was in charge of the whale skeleton, laughed at an article in a recent issue of a scientific magazine which gives a lurid description of the loud bel- lowing of a blue whale after the harpoon strikes it. A blue whale, if harpooned from the rear, frequently rushes forward at a speed of fifteen or twenty miles an hour, and when he gets to the end of the cable, tows the whaler, despite the fact that the engines are re- versed, but he never jumps out of the water or bellows. In fact, the blue whale and all other whales, except the variety known as the ^'humpback" are incapable of making a noise except by spouting. From the roof-beams were suspended the Langley airships and the 84-foot restoration of the whale. Beneath the whale was its skeleton and close by were two nightmares of prehistoric times, the stegosaur with its spiny tail and the triceratops whose three-pointed head savors of Dante's Inferno or the Temptation of St. Gerome. Uglier than the horned toad and larger than the elephant was the stegosaur installed in the Smithsonian section of the Government build- It was 20 feet long from the tip of its nose to the spikes on its tail and its back rose fully 12 feet above the floor. 464 U. S. Go VEEN MEN T ExHIBIT The stegosaur is reputed to have been one of the largest animals of the early geological ages, aijd to have fed on herbs. There were others larger which did not confine themselves to a vegetable diet, as is proven by the stegosaur itself. Along its back are arranged a row of horn-like plates 2 feet long and a foot high. These plates, augmented by a clump of spikes on the end of its tail, would make the largest and hungriest of the forest rangers hesi- tate when they saw the stegosaur. The tail spikes are nearly two feet long and with a side switch of its caudal appendage the stegosaur would be able to pierce a sheet of boiler iron, according to geologists. The age of the stegosaur has not been exactly fixed, but it is supposed to have roamed through Colorado, where its bones were found, between fifty and one hundred million years ago. Alligators and snakes, elephants and mastadons were side by side in this department, and above them all towered the giraffe, surrounded by a display of modern animals. The finest obtainable samples of crystals and gem stones were shown in cases along the walls. Several Aztec temples and a huge stone god of the early Mexicans were also shown in this display, which was a running objective cata- logue of every science. Opposite the Institute was the Lighthouse department, with 10-foot lanterns of crystal glass and models of lighthouse towers, the lighting service of the coasts being further illustrated by a series of transparen- cies at the rear of the exhibit, where hmng a huge siren foghorn. MAKING * ^ MONEY ^' WHILE YOU WAIT. Next came the mint, where souvenir coins of the exposition were rolling from the huge stamping press after having gone through every process used by the mint in making metal money. The metal was melted, cast into ingots, rolled into ribbons and the coins punched and stamped before the eyes of the visitor. The round metal disks, properly alloyed and shaped to the right size, but unstamped, were dropped into a tube exactly designed to receive them. At the base of the tube, sliding horizontally and visible, was a pair of long, flat, fingerlike grippers which closed on the lowermost disk with a click. The fingers then slid inward about six inches and released their burden, depositing it precisely in a certain spot with an accuracy that reckons within a hair's breadth. U. S. Government Exhibit 465 Then the fingers retreated. At the instant two peculiar-looking great bulbs of steel, which the wise ones call a '^toggle joint," wabbled together, and down from above with 160 tons pressure came the die. Below was another die or stamp, the reverse side, behind which also lay fabulous power. To the thousandth of a second, the one met the other. The impressions of the lettering and figures were made upon the disk". It was not mashed, because contained by a ''collar," pressure against which served 'another purpose, in that the milling of the edges that we note upon all coins was accomplished. Such was a coining machine as was shown in the Mint of the Govern- ment building. Money was not created before the spectator's eyes, but exposition medals were, and the process in every detail was that in use at the mints of the United States. AN '^ intelligent" MACHINE. Beyond a doubt, a coining machine is a most ''intelligent" mechani- cal device. The click, click goes on like the ticking of a clock; the fingers pick up coin after coin, never missing, never fumbling, never stopping, doing business at the rate of eighty a minute. Twenty-dollar gold pieces can be turned out at this clip, which as the sporty individual who was watching the process said "is going some." "Twenty a throw, eighty throws a minute," he continued, "sixteen hundred. ' ' And it is an ugly-looking brute of a mechanism to exhibit such a remarkable— prescience, shall we call it? A great, heavy, enormously heavy and bulbous mass of cast iron girds the whole affair. In the mid- dle, somewhat as the head of the turtle sticks out from the shell, pro- trudes the slender framework which guides the "hands." In slides the frame ; shut go the fingers. Out slides the frame ; open come the fingers. Each time a coin is stamped. Watching this awhile you would begin to feel somewhat queer— the thing was almost uncanny. after forty years his wonder grows. ' ' For forty years, ' ' says A. W. Downing, the guardian of the coining machine, "I have worked in the Mint at Philadelphia." Mr. Downing did not volunteer this as if anxious to say something of himself. The re- mark came about in the course of conversation. But it suggested the 466 U. S. GOVEENMENT ExHIBIT spectator's inward thought that if he had had the benefit of forty years' experience with those fingers he miglit be able to explain them. *^How the blazes," you say, ''do those fingers always catch the coin at just the right instant, in just the right place, and move it just the right distance and put it down in just the right spot? And how does the old bob- ble or toggle joint happen to wabble at just the right time, and hit the coin in just the right place, and make just the right marks? And how do the sliders happen to slide, the toggler happen to toggle, and the fin- gers happen to finger so that none get mixed up with each other in any of the eighty trips a minute?" Mr. Downing looks at you with the dazed air of the witness who, after having vainly endeavored to grasp the query of the long-winded attor- ney, asks the stenographer to repeat the question. You tackle the thing piecemeal, then, and try to solve the philosophy of it in driblets. After consistent eifort, you will find that the prescience of the fingers is de- rived from the ''friction of wood upon brass." The main prongs, or the "wrists" of the hands, are attached to short bars, which, in turn, are attached loosely to other bars— the ones that have the in-and-out motion. Now, the hand part is supported upon a block of brass, which moves with the sliders, but rests upon strips of wood. The brass, rubbing on the wood, retards the motion, so that the brass block, with its attached prongs, tends to move more slowly than the sliders. The retarding causes the fingers first to grip and then to release the coins. All this, Mr. Downing declares, is as simple as the ABC. Still, the thing seems a little vague. As for all the rest of it, it can only be ex- plained that the toggler does the business, and the dies meet so exactly just because they do. Simple, isn't it? HISTORY OF THE UNITED STATES MINT. In 1795, the United States having blossomed out into full-fledged com- panionship with the nations of the world. Uncle Sam foresaw the necessity of possessing a mint. A coining machine was purchased. This machine was exhibited side by side with the one described above. The old apparatus is a turn-the-crank affair, and looks as if it might be an apple press or something equally rustic. But the contrast vividly tells the story of one hundred odd years. U. S. Government Exhibit 467 COMPEESSING, PUNCHING AND CLEANING. Hardly less absorbing than the coining is each of the numerous steps through which our metal money passes. Four or five thousand ounces of gold, silver or copper are melted at a time in a naphtha furnace, which generates 1900 units of heat and which roars like a tornado. The liquid, lifted out in cups, is poured into molds and comes out in sticks about a foot long, one-half inch thick and one inch wide. The sticks are then compressed in a device which requires fifty horse- power to operate it. They are run through the press time and again to secure an exact thickness, which must be, in the case of double eagles, not a jot more nor less than eighty-three one-thousandths of an inch. By an infinitely delicate gauge— a "clock," it is called— the thickness can be regulated up to a thousandth of an inch. The accuracy is necessary in order that the strips from which the coins are to be made shall be of a uniform weight throughout their entire length; in other words, that a $20 piece have in it exactly $20 worth of gold. The pressing hardens the metal. The strips then must undergo the first annealing process, which softens the gold. This means passing them under a spray of cold water. Now, all is ready for punching. The strips pass under a punch which is capable of 180 punches a minute, each punch resulting in a disk of precisely the correct diameter. The punching frays the edges the least bit. This is remedied in what is termed the ' ' up-setting machine. ' ' The term is simply a practical ex- pression of what the device does; it turns over these roughened edges and also creates the little border or circle of indentations which we note at the edges upon both sides of every silver or gold coin. The punching has again hardened the coin beyond its desired consist- ency. The seventh step of its manufacture, then, is a second annealing. From the "annealing cylinder" it comes out, if gold, a dull brown or blackish color. Uncle Sam's new double eagles must shine with an undimmed luster, and the eighth process is a cleansing apparatus which cleans by the oxi- dization of the copper or the alloy metal. After cleansing, the coins must be dried ; and a special device, as intricate as any drier in any laundry, is designed to accomplish this purpose. Dried, they are ready for the coiner already described. Each process was demonstrated at the mint display. 468 XJ. S. GOVEENMENT ExHIBIT WAR DEPARTMENT DISPLAY. In the center of the building reared the tall Statue of Liberty, reach- ing almost to the roof and looking toward the middle entrance of the building. Under its left hand was the War Department, with a 16-inch rifle on its flank, and near it a mountain battery, carried on the backs of mules. Every item in the war activity of the United States was sliown either in model or in operation. The difficulties of the Philippine cam- paigns were illustrated by wax figures and transparencies taken from actual scenes of war. Models of Civil War battlefields and relics fur- nished the old soldier materials for fighting over all his campaigns. SPLENDID NAVAL EXHIBIT. Across the way was the Naval exhibit, with a full-sized battleship model as its chief feature. This model was equipped with real and model guns, and every detail of the battleship was constructed by Naval Archi- tect Boucher for the education of inland visitors. Models of the latest battleships in glass cases enabled the visitor to seize the salient points of the new naval architecture without going to a seaport town. The en- trances to this display were beneath tall anchor gateways that added a finishing touch to the exhibit. The Navy Department's exhibit in the Government building occupied about 15,500 square feet. The central figure of the exhibit was the exact full-sized reproduction of that portion of a man-of-war from the bow to amidships. All compartments were accessible to visitors. A working model of a dry dock, built to scale, illustrating the size and type of docks at various navy yards, was another interesting feature. A floating model of the United States ship Illinois was an attraction of this exhibit. Other exhibits of note in the naval display were a working model of a steel floating dry dock, the Annapolis Academy in miniature, sixty bio- graph scenes of the navy in action and models of various types of battle- ships, including the armored and protected cruisers, double-turreted mon- itors, gunboats, torpedo boats, submarine boats and old sloops of war. HARBOR SHOWN FULLY MINED. Soldiers, sailors and marines acted as guides, guards and custodians of the Army and Navy exhibits and explained each feature to those who U. S. Government Exhibit 469 found it difficult to comprehend the vast display. One feature of perhaps greater interest than any was a huge glass tank showing on a small scale a land-locked harbor with protecting forts and the entrance fully mined. A hostile fleet in miniature lay outside. The key and governing station to the mines were in plain view of the visitor, as were submarine boats creeping upon the invading fleet. All the mysteries of electric and contact mines and of submarine operations in warfare were revealed at a glance. WONDERFUL WEATHER FORECASTING APPARATUS. Next came the Weather Bureau display and here was shown a large glass weather map, with red and blue lines which point out the condi- tions throughout the country for the day. The display included rain gauges that will register single drops of water, thermometers of the most delicate construction, and wind gauges so delicately poised that the breath of a sleeping infant will make their vanes revolve. A seismograph or earthquake register was a feature of the exhibit. BUREAU OP ANIMAL INDUSTRY. In the Bureau of Animal Industry of the Agricultural Department exhibit, the farmer could study the most improved methods of caring for his stock and curing animal diseases. Dairymen were shown the proper way to preserve milk and other products. Evaporators and ster- ilizers of the latest model were on exhibition. Even the farrier's art was shown by a set of horseshoeing tools and models of correctly shoed hoofs. How to grow mushrooms in a bureau drawer or corner of the cellar was another interesting industry displayed by models. PROTECTION or GRASSES, GRAINS AND FRUITS. Grasses and grains and the plants injurious to animals were shown by actual samples, which included the infamous loco weed and the harm- less looking foxglove. Wool and the vegetable fibers were given much space in this display of life on the farm under all the climatic conditions of our country. Apples, pears and peaches were shown in endless variety by wax models costing more than a barrel of fresh fruit each. How best to store fruit in refrigerating plants was the subject of an interesting display pre- pared by G. Harold Powell, pomologist in charge of the experiments that have enabled American fruits to capture and hold the foreign mar- ket. 470 U. S. Government Exhibit UNITED STATES AGKICULTUEE EXPERIMENT STATION. The agricultural experiment station, including a complete working chemical laboratory, occupied a space across the aisle and there were seen the methods of plant, soil and food analysis. A model of the famous calorimeter with which Prof. W. 0. Atwater of Wesleyan demonstrated that alcohol is a food was on exhibition, near a display of the insects in- jurious to vegetation in magnified glass models. DEPARTMENTS OF STATE AND JUSTICE. In the Departments of State and Justice were shown documents and pictures dealing with the life of the nation. Here the true American could stand and with a slight knowledge of history take heart, no matter what his station in life, upon seeing the portraits of men who rose to be rulers of the nation under greater handicaps than his. WITH THE FISH COMMISSION. The Government Fish Commission exhibit, described in detail in connection with the Forestry, Fish and Game palace, was most complete. The fish in tanks formed only a small part of the exhibit. The inner court of the pavilion was devoted to showing how the propagation of fish and other work of the commission is carried on. The hatching of trout eggs was a particularly interesting feature of this. A striking exhibit was a large case having in the background a paint- ing of the harbor front of Boston. Water rose and fell at the docks, and in the foreground were nets and lobster pots, bobbing on its surface. The visitor could see just how the lobster and other edible denizens of the deep are caught for the market. A similar exhibit showed how sponges are caught on the Florida reefs. Models showed how the salmon are trapped. Other models and exhibits afforded splendid ideas of the oyster and seal industries. This important department of the Federal Government exhibit dis- played carloads of living specimens, including those of great rarity. Some of the finest specimens were from the aquarium in New York. The remainder were the result of a haul made in the ocean off Atlantic City, N.J. Among the fishes were young sharks, large turtles, horseshoe crabs and sturgeon. The car in which they arrived was an exact replica of the model cars shown in the building. It was divided into tanks and compartments. CHAPTER XXXIII. SCULPTURE, OF THE EXPOSITION Carl Bitter on the Exposition Sculpture — ^Nichaus' Heroic Statue of Saint Louis — Joliet and De Soto — The Red Man Delineated — Pathetic Disappearance of the Red Man — Solon Borglum's Cowboys — First European to Obtain an American Foothold — Chief Figures in the Louisiana Purchase — The Louisiana Purchase Monument, by Carl Bit- ter — Gigantic Decorations of the Cascades — H. A. McNeil and His Work as a Sculptor — Colossal Statues of Fourteen States — The Atlantic and Pacific Oceans in Statuary — Festival Hall and Philip Martiny — Permanent Statuary of the Fine Arts Building. ENDURING marble and temporary staff, which have marked the statuary of past expositions, were not the only kinds at the Louisi- ana Purchase Exposition, although more works of art carved from these materials were there exhibited than were ever collected at one place in the history of the world. Many odd materials were made up into artistic figures that eloquently proclaimed the idea of the designer. Some of these unique statues were colossal in size and large sums of money were expended in their making. Birmingham, Ala., built a statue of Vulcan, It was fifty feet high, the base constructed of coal and coke and the statue cast in iron. It portrayed Birmingham's importance as a manufacturing center. King Cotton was Mississippi's offering. Cotton was the material used, and the giant was as tall as Alabama 's Vulcan. The Spirit of Utah was manifested in an artistic figure modeled from beeswax. Idaho pre- sented the figure of a Couer d'Alene miner cast from copper. Golden butter was used by a Minnesota artist as an appropriate material for a statue of John Stewart, the builder of the first creamery. Louisiana presented two curiosities in sculpture— a figure of Mephis- topheles in sulphur and Lot 's wife carved from a block of rock salt. Cali- fornia showed the figure of an elephant built of almonds. Missouri, with its monster corn man, and Kansas, with its nine-foot Indian, made of the cereals of the Sunflower State, furnished two more unique examples. CARL BITTER ON THE EXPOSITION SCULPTUEB. It is with marble, staff and similar materials, however, that this chapter will deal— the materials properly coming, within the department 471 472 SeuLPTURE of the Exposition of sculpture. In recognition of the ability shown by the chief of that department— Carl Bitter— and the wonders he accomplished, it is only proper and fitting that his views of the subject should be presented. This has been made possible through the preservation of a carefully prepared address on the subject delivered by Mr. Bitter early in the life of the exposition. Its salient features follow as the best possible description and interpretation of the sculpture of this greatest of world's fairs. The distinguished master of sculpture presaged his description with the following quotation from Emerson: "For poetry was all written before time was, and whenever we are so finely organized that we can penetrate into that region where the air is music, we hear those primal warblings, and attempt to write them down, but we lose ever and anon a word or a verse, and substitute something of our own, and thus miswrite the poem. The men of more delicate ear write down these cadences more faithfully, and these transcripts, though imperfect, become the songs of nations." Continuing, he says: ' ' When we look in that spirit upon the plan that underlies the artistic adornment of the exposition, it will present to us a cup of pure joy which will be as refreshing as anything that the spontaneity and imagination of man can present. And if I now outline this plan in its fundamental principles, I believe that few words will be needed to explain its logic and sequences. "In the many comments that were made in the press on this plan it was stated that the statuary may be divided into two classes, such as have subjects of historic significance and importance, and such as are of a purely allegorical nature. The historical subjects in the form of portrait statues and the like are grouped in connection with the buildings that are devoted to the more material side of the exposition. The allegorical sculpture has been used where adornment was needed in connection with and in the vicinity of structures devoted to a more ideal mission, such as the Festival Hall or the Palace of Fine Arts. But chiefly have they been grouped around the most gorgeous feature of the fair, the magnificent Cascades. NIEHAUS* HEROIC STATUE OF SAINT LOUIS. 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