Fa ae an Eee a ey iad # = Ge TX WS \) ‘ — NG \\ \ (Wi B. Picart ait ane 1711. mc Se a CR - — . = ra ee ivy 2 feos ae COLT! 20 ‘ eae in Se a WAM : Shy ~ C7- COMP MLS fepidigwc OL 2heee oS ‘ ai Wa f 4 ANAT : PO Ss Sees ‘ NOHO pelleae RC? ; NAN i Df eS pe 4 ie Suchogs aIlts qi ii > or J. Ved Moh ae / mena CP ROMS OFS a? 2 Z , ih Hi : MEN ae hte tlle cht: guem fc Gu0C Jia faccntti ; A ae , AOpen ee ATHADHIH) L7eg ent ictle. tL! Re oe Hh S RAE CMMI ~— Pteltts ab w>ife ai eee With i oie Goa | aul RE : ee : ‘ i AWK A ICAUNCPHA EHDA DAA OUtH GVAUAQAUAUAVIVOVAUAUAUOUAUAUAGADAUAUANAGAURUMUAONAAUAUAUUAGAUAAAUNDAGAD AEE OES A a TAURTAVAVOUAVAVAUADRUAVVOURURUDY THAWAAAMOOKAMAW A AVM AUTH THOU AMA MACAW ACA UADAD (AT MTMUAGAUKGAOMOAGAGAGAOAGAOAGA rrr s Godfr: Ks Le Pp * i UeOROHUMURORUM I UAUAUAUNDAUADAUAUHORUAUKG UAV AUAUARRUOHOUNKAD HI! Way ay afi eMUMUAL UAL AUAUAUAUAGAUAGAUHUAUAN iMDADRUAUAUAUAAGANL Gee ih yucs Pi, DU PURORUMOSURUBU ETE GOD AAU TNTAUADHANEVORUROAURURUAVAUAONCADRONOORGEGRONOADADADRORURUIOWATAGR eM OMOORT : SH UTUDETUTA THEA DESHOLDAULUAOETHARAOLAO : G: Valck Schule : j x LZ 2 5 8m AUTHOR’ PREFACE, f1AV E no intention to pre-engage the Reader's Appro- bation of thefe Travels, by a ftudied Preface; and think it fufficient to declare, that nothing will be found bere, but what I have Jeen with my own Eyes, and have examined with the utmoft Attention and Care; without introducing any Particulars that have been publifbed by other Travellers, on the fame Subjett, unlefs it be to point out their Errors, by thofe Remarks which are inferted at the clofe of this Work, with relation to the celebrated Ruins of the ancient Palace of Perflepolis. I, however, have been careful not to derogate in the leaft from the perfonal Merit and fudement of thofe iluftrious Travellers in every other re[pect ; but it will be evident that they have omitted many remarkable things, and mifrepre- Sented others, either through Negligence, or for want of Skill in defigning ; or, laftly, becaufe they did not continue long enough upon the Spot, to confider thofe ftately Antiquities in a Sufficient manner. I muft obferve, with refpeG to Ruflia, that tho’ Baron Uer- berftein, rogerher with Olearius, and rhe Earl of Carlifle; Ambaffador from England at the Court of Mulcovy, as Jike- wife Allifon, and feveral others, have publifbed very entertaining Accounts of that Country, they yet have not afforded the cu- rious all the Satisfattion they require; becaufe the Authors were not permitted to draw the leaft Sketch of the Places and jine Antiquities which are to be found in thofe Parts. Iam the firft Stranger who ever obtained that Privilege from his Czarian| Majefty; and I flatter my felf that I have Jpared no Pains to improve that Favour to the beft Advantage. This will be evident from the Plans I have drawn of the principal Cities of that Empire, as likewife of its Buildings, and the jineft Profpeéts in its Provinces; to all which I have added the Habits, Manners, and Cuftoms of the various People who live under the Government of that potent Monarch. I have. likewife related the great Changes and Improvements which Lave been made by that Prince, together with a number o other Particulars that never came to the Knowledge of thofe who have written before me. L might be The AUTHOR’s PREFACE. I might fay much the fame of Perfia, and the auguft Ruins of the_ancient Palace of Perlepolis, of which feveral Tra- vellers have publifbed Defcriptions, without a due Examina- — tion' of what they faw. For which reafon their Accounts have more the Air of a Romance, than of any Reality, or com- pleat Knowledge of thofe fine Antiquities, which is not to be obtained without Pains and a peculiar Application of Thought ; and when thefe are wanting an Author muft inevitably fall into Errors, and lead others into the fame. Pietro della Valle, and Don Garcias de Silva de Figueroa, Ambaffador from Spain at the Court of Abas I. King of Perfia, are the firft who have treated of thefe famous Ruins with any Solidity. And yet it evidently appears, by the Relation the former has given of his Travels, and by the Account which the latter has pub- lifbed of his Embafly, that neither of them continued long enough at Chelminar, to examine and trace out all the Anti- guities and Curiofities of that Place, with the Circum/pettion that was requifite, and therefore we need not be furprifed, if they exprefs themfelves in. a fuperficial manner, and fome- times at random, on that Subject. It appears, however, by the Remarks of the learned Maac Voflius on Pomponius Mela, that he intended to make ufe of the Relation publifbed by Don Garcias de Silva, and likewife of the Writings of the An- cients, in order to difcover what conformity may be found, be- zween the ancient Palace of Perfepolis, and the Ruins of Chel- minar, from their Deferiptions of both; but he died before be could execute that Defign. | I foall not enlarge on the Errors committed by thefe Au- thors, left I fhould be taxed with an Inclination to recom- mend my felf at their Expence, and to fet off this Account of my Travels, by decrying thofe of others. Perfons of Fudg- ment and Tafte will know what to determine concerning us, by comparing our feveral Performances, and therefore I hall only add, that the Authors from whom I differ, were not long enough upon the Spot, to be capable of making a juft and accurate Defcription of thofe numerous and majeftic Ruins; and they, perhaps, might want thofe Lights and Abilities, which alone can enable Perfons to form a true Fudgment of fuch things as.thefe. | 4s my only View, when E entered upon thefe Travels, was to be as Jedulous as pofiblein my Survey of thofe noble Anti- quaties ; all the Difficulties that oppofed them/elves in my way, together with the Dangers to which one muft needs be obnoxious Kot | on The-A UTHOR’s PREFACE: on fuch occafions, did but animate me the more. I may like= | 4-2 oe wife declare, that I havebeen altogether induftrious toafford the rhe : Public, and efpecially Perfons of Tafte, as much Satisfaction as 1s 3 ‘ / confiftent with my {mall Abilities. Towhich I may add, that I oe % have made it an indifpenfible Law to my felf, not to deviate | Spree om in any refpect from the Truth, meerly to give an ornamental we Air to this Work, in which there are no Faé&ts but what are related with the frifteftV eracity. Nor do I affume any Merit to my felf, from the extraordinary Expences I have been at to embellifo this Edition of my Travels, and facilitate the Com- prebenfion of the Particulars they contain. The Reader may judge of my proceeding, by the Number and Beauty of the Plates diftributed through the whole Work, and which are executed with all pofible Fuftice and Accuracy. I can afirm too, that I have drawn with my own Hand, and immediately from the Life, all the Plates now prefented to the Public, with- out having recourfe to any ancient Authors who have defcribed Perfepolis and its Antiquities, and without adding or diminifbing any one Particular.’ The Reader therefore may ref? alfured, that the whole is conformable to thofé Originals whith are frill tobe fourd on the Spo#s “82 SO S08 Wo Los 4 | LT, however, am not. fo vain as t0 think my Self infallible, and therefore had the Precaution to. conimunicate my ork to fuch Perfons as had a competent fudgment in whatever relates to Antiquity. My Plates and Defcriptions were. fa- voured with their Approbation, and they were pleated to think that I had placed in their full and proper Light, thofe Ob- jects which had been fhaded in Obfcurity for the Space of two thoufand Years. The fame Perfons, whofe Modefty will not permit me to name them, have alfo been fo good as to compare, at my requeft, the Plates exhibited in this Work, with thofe Defcriptions of the. ancient Palace of. Perlepolis, that are to be found in the Writings of Herodotus, Xenophon, Diodorus Siculus, and Strabo; and they have declared them to be con~ _formable to the Relations of thofe celebrated Writers. This Circumftance afforded them fo much Satisfaction, that they have given themfelves the trouble to enrich my Work with feve- val Remarks on thofe fuperb Ruins. 7 It, however, is well known, that when an Author prefents @ Book to the Public, he expofes himfelf to the Cenfure of fuch as take pleafure in depreciating whatever is above their Capa- city. I therefore thought my beft method of impofing Silence on Perfons of that turn, would be to firengthen my ae 4. y The AU THOR’s PREFACE, by feveral Fragments of Stone, on which a variety of Figures and Charatters are impreffed; and particularly by one fide of a Window, reprefented in Plate 137, and which is now to be feen in the Cabinet of Curiofities belonging to his ferene Highnefs Anthony Ulrick, Duke of Brunfwick-Lunenbourg; and likewife by the Figure exhibited in Plate 14.2. which Figure is now in the Poffefion of Mr. Witfen, Burgomafter of Am- fterdam. J have the others in my own Houfe. I have added to this Work, for the Satisfaction of the Pub- lic, a Series of the Kings of Perlia, who have governed that Empire, from the deftruction of Perlepolis, to the prefent time; together with the Origin of thofe Princesand the Order of their Succeffion. | ) I have been the le/s particular in the Affairs and Defcrip- tion of the Indies, becaufe they are well known, and have been treated of by feveral before me. I, however, have re- lated all that paffed there in my time, together with thofe Par- ticulars of which I was an Eye Witne/s, and this I have done with the fame Sincerity and Exatine/s I obferved, with re[pect to the other Countries through which I paft. Upon the whole, Lam not fo vain and partial to my swe Capacity, as to flatter my Self that I fhall pleafe every Rea- der, but foall think my felf Jufficiently happy if I obtain the Approbation of competent Fudges; and I feall not fail to improve any Opportunity they will afford me of reétifying any Errors that as yet may happen to have efcaped my notice. THE py: Soe é Et nm p ips ae Zz [i | | MOE ALAA ANAS LT ba i> rg A rere ners LL... BE y c WU... Le... ae =» — mw : ; == “ ~ —— = *Opopen0e vecen., . 3 Spo. — =i uae eeatt tr) ° 200, . a "M95 wus Shans ~ PU - ‘ *cohvov sen, zi * —— a orm: ee 8 ee BAe 0 te, = ae? . : xe E: 6 2 Pees «® Se, f - Peepcene® 2 s ee mae ’ faa 4 , “ey, : CJ > : 5, FF r ' ¢ cs CML A ne TE nT gy i! i 2 l Baie doe ie nee HEREIN TT - oes 5 i § ) 1 a 4a 3 Sart aw . cp tain area rashiny ead eso Rae es Ly ne A nw 9 3 a 0 ed ai 1) a 1 a er I ee ee ae bp Se 7 Pty ti i aa ee 2 ee — i.) —— “e HTT fe a a ST aan : . ‘ fir . Hi Recclles de la Mer Caspienne, de \ fer Moire, et proche de celles d | | Mer Baltigque: Souverain 2 YY @ Wi/usieurs autres Royaumes et. tbe, 1H N RY z2ces Prince triomphant et Victorietey) 2, i Waa EverardIsbrantz Ides. “ss to (i AWN liar sitaac n rt i S rs = q nk win > AO. Coltonda~.Puurapyudh BENGALE o mint ae TTT EE = S ’ ti | < Se Ny A s Be = = *& Seb = “Can a = oe 7 = se yp ite = : . rN I s : 4 = ase ; : J ¢ . LS DTT 1 POPE CUTE EO R er ——— re ee? e Liquino ctiale st Be heise Ps, Sot Ri eae, Sa aR : poe Se PA A pial ini, es + 1 Wee: = Ae 4 My § 1: Bre Pe ae, = eR ARONA Sisto 2 les as tl emma Mce cl aR Ney SM ire onal rainne Rae aBARDS MOTOR NR SESH a) es Riaeseat hal Latrodutc- ion. a 8 CORNELIUS LE BRUYN, By the way of Muscovy avid \P raed into the Bast-Inpies, and to the Cuaft of. MaLa- BAR, theifland of Cryion, Batavia, Ban- » TAM, and other places, RES MES ES COS LS ES OS ESOS RES EES ES LES UST 1g) be A The Author's refolution. His departure from the Hague, and arrival at Archangel. /2 THINK I cannot NES better begin the ac- “ee count of thefe tra- =e vels, than by return- y\> ing thanks to God,who by his divine favor and protection has inabled me to go through them, as well as the for- mer, in which I fpent nineteen years with all the fatisfaction imagi- ‘Table \ Upon my return to the Hague, I fpte myfelf animated with a defire of vv OL, A. : » ~~ paying a fecond vifit to diftant coun- tries, that I might maturely confi- der the people and their manners; and to undertake a fecond voyage to the Eaft-Indies, by the way of Mofcovy and Perfia. This defign’ was very difpleafing to my friends and relations; who remonftrated to me the confequences and inconve- niences of fuch a projet; but the violence of my inclination, added to the fuccefs of my former enterprize, prevailed over all confiderations whatever. RS ee ea Oe ils A ie elit NS aM adh 5 ie ales TIT TSS ee ae 4 buts I i Sieh pie “~e Se .. ee Pee ies eS a TNR, Seepage, 7" wae \De as TES ty Ae, RTE RO: SUED CN ee ee ie Meas yet 2 ect RA V EAS” of whatever. I fefleted within my of her upon the firff of Auguff, at 1701. felf, that] was much more advanced ten inthe morning. She was a fine ~WV in years, and indued with greater flyboat, called the “fobn Bapti/?, had experience than I had been before, eight guns, and eighteen men, and and concluded I fhould be now bet- was commanded by Gerard Buis of ter qualified to make obfervations Serdam. We tripped it with a weft and remarks; and the care I had fouth weft wind to get into the Texe/, taken, upon my return, to confult where we dropped anchor before ic with men of learning and curiofity, was noon. We weighed from perfuaded me I might poflibly make thence, upon the /écond, at nine in difcoveries of greater importance the morning, and by one in the af- than I had been able to make ternoon we were out at fea; our in my former travels. Elated with pilot now left us, and I gave him thefe hopes, I carefully vifited fome letters for my friends. We and examined feveral colleGtions of fteered away north weft and by narh, rarities, and learned how to keep all tll it was night, when we haulglu forts of birds, beafts and fithes in more to the northward, and ‘#iter- {pirits, and to prepare them foas to ed our courfe for north nor} weft; bring them home without decaying. and made nine or ten fail, fome I refolved alfo to paint after the life bound to Holland, angr others to the many productions of the fea, as well eaftward.Atmidnigntacalm fell upon as flowers, plants, fruits and the us _faigscontinued till the morning like. But all this was by no means of the ¢hird of this month. About preparatory to the main defign; ~ny” noon a {mall breeze {prang up at chief purpofe was to fearch’into weft fouth weft. Upon the fourth, the antiquities of the couritries in at break of day, the wind frefhned, my way, and thereto to/add fuch and we fteered away north and by reflections as might occur; to furvey weft; the weather was very variable, the religions,> manners, cuftoms, and we faw feveral fhips fhaping polities, government and drefs, and different courfes.. Upon the //tb, whatever might be remarkable in the wind was at north, and north’ - practice at the births, marriages, and. and by weft, and we met with feve- \ burials of the various nations who ral fhips, fome of which were fifher- yy poffefs thofe diftant countries: Ina men from Greenland, who acquaint- ‘Ss word, to examine into the foil and ed us with what luck they had had | cities of the fame, with all the ac- that feafon. The fame occurrence curacy I could, that I might be able fell out the next day. Upon the to make a faithful report concern- e/gbth, the wind came about to the ing all thefe things upon my return weft, and it being very fine weather, home. : we made a difplay of all our can- 1701. I departed from the Hague, the vafs. But the wind fhifting about U-YV™ place of my birth, upon the ¢wenty to the fouth, and fouth eaft, we ‘J Hid depen €1gbtb of Fuly 1701, in order for ftood away to the north eaftward, ture fiom Amfterdam, where 1 ftaid till the and towards night had got up with theHague. thirtieth, and at four in the after- the neareft iflands of Norway, with- noon, the next day, I reached the out knowing any thing of the mat- Texel, by the ordinary conveyance. ter, the weather was fo thick and I was there informed, that the Ou- rainy. Upon the mntb, we were in denard, aman of war, commanded 61 degrees of northern latitude, and by Captain Roemer Viak, who was the weather ftill continued thick. to convoy the Rufia fleet, had Wandring about thus in this fea, weighed from thence at nine that. we faw a fort of large fifh com- morning, with five or fix merchant- monly called di/len, with a fharp — men bound for Archangel. The fhip pointed head. We afterwards faw of ¥ I was to goin, not being yetarrived, other forts called potskoppen; thete. I went to meet her, and got onboard had large heads and {wam about th 4, fhip 7 4 5 i Cb rehome eee nema: Pew he ea re ine ei aR a, AR ’ ~ act ANRITSU NURIA iyo te ag 4 pa * haters Sraaene as a a ahah a DM ie MONTAGNES Noy SSS = Ss Sa —— EZ LEE ——— —S—— PEE Diterize ~ — LED jo IZ AL gee ae ~ Sy a te S TS eZ SSS ——L_——— Wy / My, Wy) Lo Hi, J, Z Wi) OEFFOERT Ss ¢ES LOEFFOERT. —<— > ne ror thew P : ; ww } * mg” oe forse y den nomen erp ben Bind pds 5 tule Coa ri : : jSeieNlon ake ee ee ee see o. +. Re SSUES GORN ELiIPUS*ISE BRUYN 4 1701. fhip, ten times as big as a porpoife, t-y™ as large as our boats, and propor- tionably broader than long, and no where to be found but in the nor- thern feas: After feveral changes of the wind and weather, the fea being fometimes {mooth and fometimes rough, itclearedup. Upon the /ix- teenth, about feven in the morn- ing we made land, being the rocks or mountains that lie neareft on the northern coaft, and in our maps, called Loeffoert; they are indifferently high and feparate from each other, as may be feen in the plate No 1. Mountains When we had _ borrowed ‘pretty 4 an near upon thefe hills, I drew the reft Norway. Of the ifland, with the other points that ftretch out, where! took no- tice of other fmaller rocks which feemed to be joined to this fame ifland, which was about two or three leagues diftant from us. You may fee it in No 2. We then proceeded quietly enough, with fome fhips we had fallen in with by chance, and from time to time we faw fifhes of half the length of our fhip, thick in proportion, and with prodigious heads. There are fome of them faid to be fomething like a ftaircafe, as we were told by perfons who had feen them dead. We there alfo faw akind of birds not very different from our ducks, or divers, but they are fmaller with a fharp bill, black i:7Augutt.above, and white beneath. This 3 night and the next day being the seventeenth, we had a thick fog and rain. About eight a clock we fell in with a fhip, who left Hamburgh upon the thirtieth of aly, and was bound to Archangel. The fog ftill conti- nued and prevented us from {eeing the land which was not far from us; but the heavens clearing up, we had fight of it. As we proceeded, we came into the latitude of 72 degrees 36 minutes north near the land of Loppe, anda high rocky mountain to the fouth eaft of us. There we found a French fhip, whofe Mafter came aboard of us. As he could fpeak nothing but French, and there was no body in the fhip that underftood him but myfelf, I was his interpre- ter. He told us, he had been five 1701. months from Bayonne, that he had ~~ been a Greenland voyage, and that he was upon his return home; that he had taken nine whales, and the laft of them not above 4 or 5 leagues from the place where we were; and that he hoped to meet with more upon that coaft; afk- ing us whether or no we had feen any. Our Mafter having been very 4 prange civil to him, he added, that one of 72. the whales he had taken had teeth five inches long; that he had afforded thirty two cafks of blubber, and that he had filled feven and a half with | the falt he took from behind his neck. Heaffured us, it was not the ; firft time he had met with the like; that they refined this falt in Bay- } onne, to fend it into foreign parts; that it was of wonderful efficacy to clear the complexions of women, and give them a certain bloom of youth; that it was a moft excellent remedy in many.cafes, and that there | was a great deal of money got by | it. He would alfo have periuaded us, the Ba/ques were the firft that undertook a voyage to Greenland. We met with feveral other fhips in this place, and held on our courfe in the evening, with the weather very ; uncertain. Upon the twentieth, . about eight in the morning, : we reached within 6 or 7 leagues of the Ife of Loppe, which bore ie of . fouth eaft of us; but we faw it not, Loppe- | the weather was fo thick and gloomy. Upon the twenty fourth, the fog was Aug. 24. fuch, that we could hardly fee from one end of the fhip to the other. Upon the twenty fifth, we were in the latitude of 72 degrees 24 mi- nutes; in the evening ic fell calm, and in the night we had a very great fog, during which one of our feamen took a great falcon, which 4 fakon had fettled upon our fhip; but it *A4en. was fullen, and would never eat. The fog and the rain ftill continuing, we did not make land till the ¢wenry eighth. When we had got to the northward of Lambasku, the wea- ther grew fair, and we had a favour- able wind at fouth fouth weft, which gave \Sg ti a : 4 The’ TORIA 1701. gave us great pleafure at this time, iy and particularly as we could have made no ufe of it, if the fog had continued, for fear of the land. The land we had then to ftarboard VELS of perfectly favourable, we only wait- 1707, ed for pilots to go into the river; “VW but they were fo long e’re they came, that one of the Hamburghers refolved Coaf of to pilot himfelf; which he foon re- Lapland. of us was the Rujfian Lapland, com- monly called the firm land or conti- nent of Lapland. It contains aridge of hills of no very great height, and near- ly equal; they are not far from the fhore, of a ruffet colour and the foil is naught. In many parts of thefe hills you may fee patches of fnow, which gathers in hollows where it never melts. A calm taking us upon the twenty ninth, we dropped an anchor that we might not drive. But a breeze at eaft fpringing up.a little while afterwards, we fhaped our courfe fouth eafterly, and came.in with the land, having feveral fail of fhips in fight. Upon the shirtzeth, we entered the White-Sea, whole waters are clearer than thofe of the Ocean, which as you ftand in for the coaft of Ruffa, are of a foul muddy green becaufe of the rivers which fall thereinto. Having pafled the hilly coaft we came to another more upon the level, partly covered with copfe wood, and abouta league off. About eight of the clock we The Me of came up with the Ife of Crofes, which is very rocky, and not far from the main land. This ifle is full of crofles, which you difcover as you fteer in with it. When we had got clear of this coaft, we made the land of Rujia, fteering away fouth weft and by fouth, to the eaftward of us leaving Cape Gris, which fhoots out a great way into the fea. Towards the evening, we faw feven- teen fhips at anchor upon the coaft, and about eleven we added to the number, together with two Engli/h fhips, and came to an anchor in three fathom water, before the river of Archangel, about 10 leagues from the town. Upon the ¢hirty jf, in the morning, we found we were’ ‘oa 'fhips im ‘alls’? rr Dutch, 8 Enghfb, and 2 Ham- burghers, the fhips which failed from the Texe] before we did, being of the number. The weather being 2 pented, for he ran bump afhore upon the larboard fide of the river. We were not at all furprized at this, be- ing told the Mo/covites had taken up all the fea-marks, for fear of the Swedes, who had appeared at the mouth of the river fome weeks be- fore, and alarmed all the neighbour- hood. The Englifh alfo grew quite uneafy at this delay, and towards morning weighed with fix fhips; but two. of them running likewife aground, the other four gave over the attempt. But their pilots com- ing to them,: in the afternoon, they went up the river, followed by a {mall veffel of our country, who hap- pily efcaping all danger, came to an anchor before certain meadows, Meadows, by the favor of fine weather. The land there is full of {mall trees, and {tretches out on both fides towards the river, forming a crefcent, as ap- pears by Ne 3. September, we had all of us pilots, excepting one Engli/b fhip, and, about eleven of the clock, we got under fail, fteering away to the eaft- ward. We went over feveral flats where we had not above 15 or 16 foot water, and dropped an- chor about three of the clock near the meadows, about 6 leagues from Archangel, the hay being then in heaps upon the ground. The En- gh/b, and the reft came to in this place as well as we, none being al- lowed to lie nearer the town, whither every Captain muft repair in perfon. I therefore embarked with fome others about five of the clock, de- fizning to take the fhorteft way among the iflands; but it happened that we foon loft ourfelves. We. began to defpair of fuccefs in our attempt, when meeting with a fmall veflel, under the care of a Mofcovite, we begged of him to take charge of us as a guide, night coming on, and the weather thick and gloomy; for we had, as I believe, fteered the compafs Upon the fecond of 2 Sept: ad 1 ovekcyt en e-potyenanlar Nitti annals se SST es : Me Saat nae ‘| SSS AQWMua SSS ~~ S \ \ \ : \w == ACA \ \ : ~~ : : SSH RSS AAA RAEN SS SLE = SSS SS SS — : = WEE Se KK RG. \ AY AAAAN 7 ; PIN = : _——* GG S ie \\ . == ss 2 ss =a Ss = ZZ 5 LZ am SS en 2 = ae z z GEEZLEZLNL-Z = ZBZZZLED : = Lag LD Ze LE LEE x Zig ie ogg = ZL LZ ZZ ZL % Z =F gO CZ yy UN «|\ | Nt TENTES DES — Ay Zz Z Se Z ; g /} © a < : — — : 4 SS . 3 | : ° = ee Th) curceh indbenentaeieeenan hy sat tin: EA beset aa Hee ee catia ies angina mite eh dite He mnie ammeter? as oe 0 eee Stee. Bl ase ener Sree cn ree sia » kee at Such Sr epee > esate agate eager etna ‘ a: Septet EN or ae * 5 peal ae belie itera one é ese CORN EL PUSS“ E BRU YN, E 1701. compas three times round, though \“V™ we had no lefs than four Captains New Dwinko. in the veffel with us. At length we difcovered the beacon of one of the iflands, near to which we found a Rujhan bark at anchor. It was now midnight and rained hard, fo that we refolved to ftay here till day-light, it being too dark to fee our way to the fhore; befides, there was not water fufficient for us fo to go; if there had, we fhould have landed, and madea fire in-the woods. At day-break we proceeded on our way, and about fix of the clock reached the New Dwinko, about three leagues from the city. Here we ftopt, it not being permitted to advance any farther, without leave of the commanding Officer of the place. There are but few houfes at this place, where they were rai- fing fome forts, for fear of furprize from an enemy. Here alfo they were getting ready three branders, and a chain of ninety fathom, thick as a man’s arm, to obftruct the Swedes, who had been every day dreaded, fince their laft expedition. I hac time to makea draught of the place, whofe houfes are at fome di- {tance from the river as appears by the plate. The commanding Officer 1701¢ appearing at laft, entertained us with Y¥™) a glafs of brandy, and gave us leave to go on. We departed immedi- ately, and upon the ¢hird arrived at Arival at Archangel, about nine in the morn- Arch- ing. I went to lodge with a coun-" >” tryman of mine, called Adolphus Bowhuifen, who informed me the Swedes had appeared in thefe parts, | a little while before, with three men of war, one fly-boat, two galliots, j and a{now, intending to deftroy the . village of Moetjeza, ten leagues off. 3 That they had certainly gained their 3 Sept. end, ifa Mo/covite, called Koereptien, who ferved them as pilot, had not diverted them, by reprefenting, ic would fruftrate their defigns upon Archangel. Upon this they came, with Englifh colours, before the mouth of the river, where they en- tered with their galliots and the fnow, having firft feized another Mo/- covite to ferve them as an interpre- ter. Upon the fifteenth of une 1701. they got the length of the New Dwinko, about feven ‘in the evening; but were vaftly furprized upon being received with fome dif- charges of cannon, the thing they leaft expected. This obliged them 6 4 misfor- tune by LUn-pow- der. death of four of them, The TRAVELS of 1701. to quit one of their galliots and the -y~/ fhow, and to row away in their boats for the other galliot, who had been aground, but was now afloat again. ‘They then returned to their fhips, at the mouth of the river, leaving the New Dwinko at mid- night, and at atime of the year, when the fun hardly at all difap- pears from above the horizon. Ex- afperated at this lofs and difappoint- ment, they wrecked their fury upon the light-houfe, fetting fire thereto, as well as to two villages Koeja and Pellietfe, the firft of which is not above feven hours from the city on the fame fide, and the other be- yond or on the other fide of the White-Sea: In fhort, they for fome days cruifed in thefe parts, and then fhaped their courfe for home. The Mofcovites, rejoiced they had thus got rid of them, fell to drinking the wine the Swedes had left them in great plenty, and carelefly firing fome falvo’s for their victory, the fire caught hold on a barrel of powder, and blew up the beft part of the veffel, which proved the twenty that were wounded. It is thought the Swedes loft but one man upon this occafion, whofe body fal- _ ling into the water, was taken up by the Mofcovites. | Upon the fourth, feveral of our fhips came to an anchor before the town, having been previoufly fearch- ed for prohibited goods. ‘The Ex- befides. glib thip that continued at the mouth ror, of the river for want of a pilor, ~WNO would now have come up, but had the misfortune to run aground in the attempt. her to fave any of the goods, and the gale increafing, fhe opened fo fuddenly, that, in lefs than half an hour, fhe had 7 foot water in the hold. It was as much as her hands could do to fave themfelves with their cloaths, by the help of certain ropes, and a {mall veffel; but they could get out none of the cargo, which chiefly confifted of tobacco. was one of the fineft fhips that had ever been feen in thefe parts. She carried 300 lafts, and was bored for 40 guns, though they mounted but 18, and had but 30 men on board. She funk fo muchin a fhort time, that the fea wathed over her. Her name was the Refolution, and fhe was commanded by Captain Brams. The Hamburgher, men- tioned before, and who. ran aground,. upon the laft of dugu/?, muft it is likely have undergone the fame fate, if they had not taken the opportu- nity of fair weather, to get out her lading, and fet her afloat again; for the place where fhe ftruck, was ftill more dangerous than where the Englifobman was loft. To conclude, having efcaped thefe dangers, we got happily into our port, by the fa- vor of the tide. ae VAN ASSIA S% YANK SYSTEMS ISSISAS Colla Pe ae A defcription of the Samoéds. Their manners, their habita- tions, and way of living. . ve PON the eleventh of this month. I went-up the river with my - ffiend, to go to a country houfe he Pe ee ee ee a ee ~~had; about-2-or-3-leagues from the city. In our way, we landed at a wood, where we faw fome of the people called Sametds, which in the Ruffian tongue, fignifies, man.eaters, -or people that devour one another, They are almoft all wild, and ftretch along the fea coaft quite to Szberia. ‘Thofe, wenow faw, were to The next day it blew 4 great fo hard, there was no going near/””- She 1701. Sept APPR Or: ANNA AE ARORA ODN RR RO aR ete NY a peng CE ik Rad gD Lad abe Rare hse sak ms < Oe ee on ‘ + pk , ty “ i us (Airatsins 2) FFein0 i Mean) eRe alanis SiN anne Ana ts oy a ey Rs Ree a ee aaa io - aim Gee aa aes a Ra tig ee n ARM, Sate ae NN anne: : : * 5 Li + NAVETS EXTRAORDINAIRES 5 \' a SZ ZZ Yi LL oe \\\ N \ NY \ \ ST —— SSS N DEDANS. E TE DES SAMOJEDES ~ GoOGR NEL. US: LE B-R°O YN, 1701. to the number of 7 or 8 men, and as YN) many women, and were divided into five different tents; and had by them 6 or 7 dogs tied to as many ftakes, who made a furious noife at us as we drew towards them. We found them, both men and women, em-— ployed in making of oars, and bowls to throw water out of boats, as alfo litele chains, and things of this kind, which they fell in the city and among » the fhips. ‘They have leave to take what wood they want, for thefe ufes, out of the forefts. ‘They are fhort of ftature, and particularly the wo- men, who have very {mall feet. They are ofa fallow complexion, dif- agreeable to look at, having almoft all of them long eyes, and bloated cheeks, They have their language peculiar to themfelves, though they alfo underftand the Ruffian; and are all clad alike in fkins of the rein- deer. They have an upper garment which hangs from the neck down to.the knee, with the hair outer- moft, and of different colours for the women, who by way of ornament, add flips of red and blue cloth. Their hair, which is very black, hangs a- bout their ears like that of the favages, and from time totime, they cut it by tufts at once. The women indeed do upa part of theirs, to which they hang {mall round pieces of copper, by a fillet of red cloth, to give them fomething of an air. They wear alfo a fur cap, white within, and black without. Some of them have their hair difhevelled like the men, and then it is difficult to diftinguifh them from the men, who very fel- dom have any beard, except a little upon the upper lip, which may, per- haps, proceed from their ftrange kind of diet. They wear alfo akind of waiftcoat and breeches of the fame fkin, with boots almoft all white, in which the women differ from the men in nothing but lifts or flips of black upon theirs, The thread they ufe is made of the finews of beafts. Inftead of handkerchiefs or towels, they ufe very fine rafpings or faw-duft of birch, which they are never without, to wipe them when they fweat, or at meals, by 1701. way of a little cleanlinefs. Their “WU tents are made of the bark of trees, fewed together in long flips, which hang down to the ground, and keep out the weather. They are, how- ever, open at top, to let out the {moke, and therefore black there, though they are every where elfe yellow or reddifh, being kept up by poles, whofe tops appear above the reftof the tent. The way into thefe their habitations is about 4 foot high, and covered with a great patch of the fame bark, which they mutt lift up to go in and out, and the fire burns in the middle of them. They feed upon the carcaffes of oxen, fheep, horfes and other carrion they find on the high roads, or that may be given them; or upon the guts and garbage of the fame which they boil and eat without either bread or falt. While I was with them, I obferv- ed a great kettle upon the fire, full of thefe dainties, which none of them thought it worth the while to fkim, tho’ the pot never wanted it more. The tent alfo was full of raw horfe- flefh, a horrid fight! Having taken thorough notice of all thefe things, I drew the defign you fee, Ne 4. While I was about it, they gathered 1701. round me, and looked upon me with WA~S an air of fome underftanding, and Spt. as if they liked the thing. In one of thefe tents, I faw a child, about eight weeks old, lying in a cra- dle, or trough rather of yellow wood, not very unlike the lid of a box. ‘This cradle had a_ half hoop at the head, and was hung by two ropes upon a pole. It was co- vered over with a grey cloth, tent fafhion, but open at top, and at the fide, to take the child out and put itin, The child was wrapped up in cloths of the fame colour, and bound about the breaft with ropes or cords, as alfo about the middle and the feet; but its head was bare, as well as a part of the neck. As hideous as thefe people are in them- felves, this child was agreeable enough, and even pretty white. Not having time enough to make an end 4 of 7 8 CO ywRaNe HOLL F U.S) 4b EE BARZUGN. 1701. of my work, and fome of the wo- fo filthy a place, and defired them to 17or. i, “Vv~) men and children being abroad in come to me to Archangel, with one'“v the woods, I thought it beft to leave it undone, till I fhould return; fo that we proceeded on our way, and in a little time afterwards came to my friend’s country houfe. Extraor- While we were here, they brought of their handfomeft women, and to let her be as fine as they could in their way, that I might draw her © pidure. They promifed me they would, and were as good as their word. I painted her as you fee her seh us feveral forts of turnips, of vari- in Ne. 7. They are dreft in {kins Reprofe. ureiDs. : 4 ' 4 Hs Ae ous colours, and furprifing beauty. of the rein-deer, adorn’d with ftreaks tiled Sy . . s amoe Some of them were of purple, like of white, grey, and black. This7. 0. our plums; grey, and white, and woman was drefs’d out as a bride, and Neamefaf yellowifh, traced with a red like our vermilion, or fineft lake, and more pleafant to the fight than the car- nation. I painted fome of them in water-colours upon paper, and {ent fome of them to Holland, in a box of dry fand, to a friend, who was a lover of fuch rarities. Thofe I had painted, I brought with me to &ch- angel, where they could not believe they were copied from nature, ull I produced fome of the originals themfelves ; a certain fign they have there no curiofity in things of this kind. You have a reprefentation of them in number 5. t7o1. _ Upon the thirteenth I returned to Sept. 13.the Samoeds, and drew the infide of Tats of bo One of their tents, which I opened Samoeds. ON both fides for that purpofe. I had a friend with me, and three wo- men by me, one of which I got to hold the cradle as I would have her, in the prefence of her hufband, as you may fee in number 6, . Thefe tents are commonly full of {kins of the rein-deer, which they ufe to fit upon, and to fleep upon. And this, together. with their man- ner of dreffing their victuals, which for the moft part is nothing but car- rion, caufes an intolerable ftench. My friend, who fat by me, while I drew the child and the cradle, was stench of {0 violently affected by it, that he thefe people. bled at the nofe, and was obliged to go out, tho’ we had taken care to prepare ourfelves with brandy and tobacco. Nor can it be at all fur- prifing, for thefe people even in » themfelves fmell very ill, which I attribute partly to their food and to their naftinefs. 7 I got, as foon as I could, out of was very neat from head to foot," “%* according to their fafhion. She kept her eyes continually fixed upon mine, and feemed’ fo pleafed with what I was, doing, that another woman, whocame with her, grew jealousat it, and was angry I would not like- wife paint her picture: but the firft had given me too much trouble for that, befides, I intended to paint her hufband. His winter drefs was what 2 samoéd I thought moft proper for me to”. draw, and I therefore defired him to appear in that. . His upper garment wis habit, ‘was one piece of fkin, to which the cap he wore on his head was join- ed. He put it on and off like a fhirt, fo that nothing appeared of him but the face, his gloves being alfo of a-piece with the reft of his ha- bit: and indeed, hehad looked more like a bear than a man, had it not been for the fight of his face. His boots were faftened below the knee : but this drefs was fo hot, as well as the ftove of my room, that he - was obliged to pull it off feveral times, and to go out and refrefh him- felf with a lictle air. He is reprefented, No. 8. with a gut in his hand, to thew what they feed upon. You fee feveral others by him, and the head of a horfe flead.. This is, becaufe he had had that day given him a horfe that*was dying, which he fent home to the woods, with inexpreffible joy ; he there killed him, flead him, and fent me his head to paint. But he was not very willing to favor me with this prefent; for thefe heads are in as high efteem with them, as a calf’s head is with us, This horfe was about thirty years old, and yer I he 2M tna ple “ ss RS STE LASER tah pe AAREE enema a ay paride taille 8 tee ue a : 2 SEAS) 30357." ee ee piss * BRB Sa RR, Hi NS NY RN S WY S WSs ASS OX WAST FO? AND yA “ Me a SSS Ca ul TEIN BSS Se SSS OSS SS - h SOS SSO ee ————= OSTA SSS SAO SEE 7 VSS eeeseTess a SSS SSAA SOE SSE SS SSS SS Se SSSS55 — ee SSS PSSST = SS Stes Soe SossSs SONS SSE SS SS SES S SSS SSNS SSS iowa ERD, LLL AF 1: Lf BEETS: P, TZ ZZ GILLI ZA ALZZI LZ ZZ LLLITILL LT? eee Le Peat CRALLAE A ae re GS oo OUCURTD Ss & 7. ow 28s ghee” 3S .c oe. oo oes Sy OT . e t Sybwtdaes ac oO > Le Ao ee OR eSS cB) hed qe = ow oO ~7 O59 = 0S Bia gi By Ge PSaobBEASES HM] i ft t /, ne 7 GTi, 7 Z, Y fy LUA Uy) WH Uh} tL} PTT LT] PH TTT) ATT LTH} Vor. L. ey ee ee ee eee) CMe. ee Ye hi pey Pe kt ee ee ye ee Te ee TAN, Cg ee ee Com eh en Sey gee ss ee en ae , H ; ‘ ) mi : ? ao The TRANEL S. of ryo1, Thefe fledgesare commonly 8 foot are very fharp before, and fomething Vv7OT. “VN long, and 3 foot 4inches broad, and like a wedge, and may be feen in s~v~ Sledges f +ife up before after the manner of the quiverin the plate. They call Darts of the Sa- moéds, our kates. The driver fits crofs- them Strek; the Ru/ffians call them“ S* = APE Er cey moéds. lege’d, and before him is a {mall boatd rounded at top, and another, tho’ a little higher, behind him. In his hand he holds a long rod, with a knob at the end of iit, wherewith to quicken the pace of the. deer: Ac the end of the fledge are two round Sterla;' a bow they call a Loack. When they go out to hunt the {quir- rel, they ufe another kind of dart; blunt at the end, like a pear which they form of wood, or bone, or horn, to kill them without hurting the {kin or the fur which would lower pieces which turn likea {wivel, over the price of them: «They hunt the g, ;,4: which the harnefs. is pafled, _ “from _ _rein-deer in the winter-feafon, and for ing of the ~~ thence” between the legs of the crea- “that purpofe provide themfelves with ‘oe ture, and from thence to the neck, a kind af wooden fkates, about 8 foot séates. ae where i it is faftened to a collar. oe prone. sapgbelf a fies broads elag into the nature of this ae fs, and to make fome farther “obfervation upon the motion of thele: creatures, I got this Samoéd to prepare two fledges with two rein-deer to each, and we went upon the ice and ‘¢rof- fed the river feveral times. I even got out of the fledge to take anex- acter notice of things, and to make a fketch of what was before me; up- on which I perceived my Samoed. had not rightly fitted the fledge he drove into my room. You oy fee it reprefented 1 in Ne. 9. Horfes fy Upon the river I obferved that ot from the Norfes fled from the fight of the 7ein-deer. rein-deer, andthe Samoéds, whether harneffed to fledges or not. ‘The fame may be obferved in the city, and it may fufficiently evince the fear thefe creatures have of this peo- ee fwift-ple. The rein-deer run with a fwift- nefs {urpaffing that. of horfes, re- = gardlefs of the Yroad,. ‘whether. it bes: beaten or not, they § go" with an equal pace wherever the the driver, hurryi ing nofe in the air, and their horns on their back. They never {weat, but when they are tired, they loll out their tongue on one fide, and. when they are much heated, they pant like Manner of dogs. They have:three forts of darts, tating to take them with. The firft have them. but one point like common darts, the fecond have two, and the third Wicases are lined. at, t ye y are. directed. by | ; along with their : b in | a ftrap. Thus fhod they ill fkim ‘we Fiasfoos and mount {kin of the: ‘Tein towards the Bs wih prepared their toils’ them, ‘when a they are too far off to hit them with ee their darts. At the other “end” “of aioe this fame ftaff. they. have a-f ring about four inches diameter, fink. cords crofling each other, chequet fafhion, with which they ftop them- a felves from time to time, thé point of the ftaff which goes through this ring and a little beyond it, making» its way into the fnow, where the ring ftops it. When they have-driven their prey into the {nares, where they are taken as it were in nets, they run and difpatch fuch as cannot free themfelves. They then difpofe of the fkins either by the way of fale, or referve them for their own ule, as has been faid, and feed upon the fleth. Nor do they reap lefs advantage by thofe they breed up tame, felling a part of them, and keeping | the reft to draw their fledges in the winter. When a wild male has coupled with a tame female, they kill the fawn, which in three or four days time would infallibly take sto. the foot before and cue CoOURMNIE @& 2 UcS0 LE SBR eUGYON, r7or1, take to the defarts. But fuch as are iy tame, feed in the woods about the huts; and come when they are cal- led, and are eafily infnared when they Food of sheaté wanted. Thefe creatures look rein-deer. ut for their own food, which is a certain kind of white mofs in the moors. They know where to find it tho’ ever fo deep buried in fnow, which they throw up with their feet till they have got at it. This is almoft their only food, tho’ they may alfo eat grafs and hay, when they have none of this mofs. They are not very different from our ftags, but they are ftronger, and have ' fhorter legs, as may be obferved in Pefriptionthe. plate. They are almoft all of a of the rein- whitifh colour, tho’ fome of them ar. chere are that are grey, and have hoofs of black horn. They change their branches every f{pring, when they are covered with a kind of black ' foft fkin, which goes off upon the approach of winter. They feldom live above eight or nine years. Be- fides this kind of chafe, they have another by water after feals, which abound in the white fea, during the months of March and April, and are thought to come from Nova Zem- bla to breed. They ingender upon the ice, where the Samoéds lye in wait for them, dreffed in a difguife, which makes them look like nothing lefs than human. creatures. They contrive in this manner. They go upon the ice which fometimes ftretches out half a league into the fea, with a ftaff armed with a har- poen, and with about 12 fathom of line faftened to it. As foon as they perceive any of them, they glide a- long upon the belly, and get as neat them as poffible when they are in the act of ingendering, but ftop the minute they find they are difco- vered. They then glide on to them again, and being within reach, they throw their harpoons at them, and the creature is no fooner fenfible of the wound, than hetakes to the wa- ter. The Samoéd keeps his hold and draws the line, which is faftened a- bout his middle or to his girdle, till the feal is quite fpent and falls into Water chafe. It his hands. Sometimes unable to beat .1701/ with the Hye of his wounds, ir- “WN ritated by the falenefs of the water, hejumps out again upon thevice; ‘and is there flain, “His flefh ferves for food, and his fkin cloaths the hun- © ter, who fells his oil. It alfo fome- Danger of times happens that the fal being 4% wounded and hurrying inte the wa- ter, the man, unable to pet rid Of the line about his middle) isdfawn in after him, and there comes to''a mi- ferable end. They have: much’ the fame ftratagem alfo for taking of the rein-deer, creeping along in'the tkin of that animal, in the midi: of fuch of them as are tame, till they are near enough to dart them: but they muft be mindful to keep to leeward of them ; for this creature being indued with a very nice fenfe of {melling, would in an inftant dif cover them ; and thus ‘they attain their end, and get good prizes fot themfelves into the bargain. I was told all this by the Samoed woman who came with her hut band when I drew her pi@ure. She was the prettieft and moft. agteeable of all I had feen of them; and I endeavored to be fair with her, to get whatever elfe I might ‘defire to know, out of her: and towards which, nothing proved ‘fo effe@ual, as a {tock of brandy I had, which the women in this country fuddle with as freely as the men, and till they can ftand no longer. ‘This is what happened to the woman we are how {peaking of, and the fight was fo wonderfully pleafing to her hufband, that he had like to have fplit his fides with laughing at it. After the had got upon her feet again, fhe began to cry moft bitterly, it juft then com- ing into her head that fhe was child- lefs, tho’ fhe had brought four into the world. This was interpreted to me by the miftrefs of the houfe; re- fletions of this kind will fometimes arife in the mind when the perfon is in liquor. Talking with her, one day, upon the fubject of children, fhe informed me of theit manner of difpofing of them after death, in which there is fomething very re- | _markable, 12 CYOURANTIE © BUcs? bE COB RUN, 1701. matkable. When a child at the over with earth; and then, upona 1701. L-Y~ breaft, where they keepit fora year, tree, they hang up his bow, his “1 Manners happens to die without having tafted of meat, they wrap it up in a cloth and hang it to a tree in the woods. As their manners and cuftoms are and cuf-- widely different from what of the toms of the Samceéds. Their mare kind is to be found in other na- tions, I made it my bufinefs to in- quire as much after them as pofli- ble. As foon as a child is born, they give it the name of the firft creature that comes into their tent, whether man or beaft ; or of the firft they meet with in going abroad: nay, it is no uncommon thing with them, to impofe on it the name of whatever they happen to fee firft after the birth, whether river, tree, or ought elfe. Children that die after they are a year old, are put into the earth between planks or boards. quiver, his ax, his hatchet, his ket- tle, and whatever elfe was in ufe with him while he lived. In the fame manner they bury their wo- men. Having thus informed myfelf as to their cuftoms and manners, [ wanted to know what might be their belief, and their religion. ‘To this purpofe, I went with my friends to a Samoéd, whom regaled with fome brandy, to put him into a good hu- mour, for without that they are very mute, andcare not to fpeak. At thac inftant Icalled to mind, that in fcrip- ture it is faid, Lhe heathen without the knowledge of the law, did never= thelefs by the light of nature fulfil the law; and thence I concluded this people might poffibly have. fome When they have a mind to marry, they look out fora woman they like, and bargain for her with her neareft knowledge in this refpect. Having p,j.r,¢ afked him fome queftions upon this #e Sa- head, he told me, he believed with ™- wiages. relations, juft as we buy a horfe or an ox. They give for a wife two or three or four rein-deer, which are commonly reckoned at 15 or 20 - Florinsa-piece; a fum equivalent to which is fometimes paid, according as the agreement happens to be. Thus they take as many wivesas they can maintain, tho’ there are among them who are contented with one. When a wife no longer pleafes them, they have nothing to do but to fend her back again to her friends or relations that fold her, and they are obliged to take her again, the huf- band ftanding to the lofs of the pur- chafe he gave for her. I havebeen told there are other Samoéds that inhabit along the fea coaft and in Siberia, who marry in the fame manner, and fell their wives when they no longer like them. When their father dies ‘or their mother, they keep their bones and never bury them ; and I have been informed by eye-wit- neffes, that they even drown them when they are very far advanced in years, and of no farther ufe. In fhort, when a man is dead, they drefs him juft as when he was alive, put him into a pit, and cover him his countrymen There was a heaven and a God, whom they called Heyba or Deity; that they were perfuad- ed there was nothing greater or more mighty than God ; that eve- ry thing depended on him; that 4- dam, the common father of all man= kind, was created by God, or pro- ceeded from him, but that his de= fcendants neither went to heaven or to hell. That all who did well would be feated in a place above hell, and enjoy the happinefs of paradife, and feel no pain. They neverthelefs wor- fhip their idols, adore the fun and moon, and other planets, and even certain beafts and birds, juft as the whim takes them, or juft as they expect to get any good by them. They have a fort of a piece of iron before their idols, to which they hang a number of fticks of the thick- nefs of a knife-handle, the length of a finger, and fharp at one end, whereby they intend, to reprefent the head of a man, and by little holes to exprefs the eyes, the nofe, and the mouth. Thefe fmall fticks are wrapped in fkin of the rein-deer, and thereto they hang the tooth of a bear, or wolf, or fome fuch thing. a They “V™ they call Szaman, Prieft or magician of the ~ Samoéds. COIR NE ELUSUG BE BIR a w, 1701. They have among them a perfon or Koed:/nick, which fignifies a prieft, or a magi- cian, and they believe this man can foretel them the good and evil that is to happen to them ; whether or no they fhall be lucky in the chafe; whether perfons fick fhall recover again, and much more of the kind. When they want him to tell them any thing, they fend for him, and ‘putting a rope about his neck, they pull it fo hard that he falls down for dead. At the end of fome time he begins to move, and comes by de- grees to himfelf again. When he is going to foretel any thing, the blood ftarts out of his cheeks, and ftops when he has done; when he begins again, it runs afrefh; and this I was aflured by perfons who had oftentimes been eye-witneffes of it. Under their garments thefe ma- gicians wear plates of iron, and rings of the fame, which make a frightful noife when they come in: But thofe who live in thefe parts have no fuch thing ; they only wear a net of cat-gut or ought elfe, to which they faften the teeth of all forts of creatures. When one of thefe Keoedifnicks happens to die, they raife him a monument of timber, clofe on all fides, to keep out the wild beafts. Then they lay him out thereon, drefled in his beft array, and place his bow, his quiver, and his hatchet byhim. Tothis monu- ment they tie a rein-deer or two, if the deceafed had been pofleffed of any in his life-time, and there they leave them to ftarve, if they can- not get loofe and make their efcape. All this, which I had from people who live in thofe parts, was confirm- ed to me bya Ruffian merchant, cal- led Michael Oftaliof, whom I invited for that purpofe, knowing he had crofled Szberia, both winter and fummer, in his way to China, and that he had travelled that way for fourteen years together. He was a man about fixty years old, found of mind and body, and told me thefe: Samoéds {pread. along on all fides to the great rivers of Siberia, fuch as Vet. I. the Ody, the ‘Fenifeia, the Lena, and the Amur, which fall into the great “WY ocean. The laft of them is a li- “mit to divide the dominions of Muf- covy from thofe of China, and there- fore thefe people never crofs it. Be- tween the rivers of Lena and Amur are the Fakoetes, who are Tartars, and the Lamoetkie, who feed upon rein-deer like the Samoéds; they are to the number of 30,000, or there- abouts, bold and warlike. Towards the fea-coaft there is another nation they call ‘Faecogerze or ‘Foegra. Thefe are in all refpects like the Samoéds, drefs after the fame manner, and live in defarts. Like dogs they de- vour the guts and garbage of all forts of creatures quiteraw; and all thefe people {peak different languages. There is alfo a fourth kind of them called Korakie, from the country they inhabit, and who live after the manner of the Samoéds. To thefe alfo may be added a fifth, called Soegtfe, who flit their cheeks, and put in bones of the narwhale to help the fcar which they efteem an ornament. Among thefe, the men wath themfelves with the urine of the women, and the women with that of the men. They pafs for very wick- ed wretches, and are reported to be 13° I7O!. Jakoetes. Other fa- UVages» deep in magic: And indeed they boaft of it, and always carry about with them the bones of their Fathers for fuch ufes. But what is ftill more extraordinary, they worfhip the De- vil, and profticute their wives and jing of ci- daughters to the ftrangers that hap- pento be among them; a civility they deem to be abfolutely due to ftrangers. How wide is the diffe- rence between the manners of thefe nations and thofe of the Europeans ! The Ruffian who informed me of all thefé things, told me farther, thac after a five or fix weeks journey, be- yond where thefé people inhabit, he met with a fixth fort towards the fea-coaft, and that they were called Lafatie Soegtfie, or Couchant Soegthe, from their lying or fitting in their tents during all the winter feafon. They are made of the {kin of the natwhale, and are covered with fnow eo. for An odd vility. Dee gE TN ES eT SO r, BB i: Fi = Mo Ae 4 a be 1A CORRE DUSIUE BRU. 1701; for five months in the year. They \‘vy™ provide quantities of the whale, which they dry, and never go out © till fpring. They fay, that fome years ago, the Samoeds of thefe parts had got a trick of wounding the cat- tle of the Mu/fcovites between the {mall ribs, or in the ear, with ave- ry fine iron, upon which the poor creatures languifhed for a time and then died, to the great joy of thefe people who had them to eat. But being difcovered, many of them were feized, who were hung up, fome by the legs, and others by the middle, as an example to the reft. Notwith- {tanding the terror this muft have given them, they began again laft winter, and fome of them were lock- ed up for it; but they made their efcape, leaving behind them only a little child, which the Governor of the province took care of, and had it baptized into the Ruffian church. A new While I ftaid here, I was alfo in- Wand. formed, that about feven years ago they had difcovered an ifland to the left of China, andthat it had been brought under the Czar’s fubjeGion, tho’ it required at leaft a year to tra- vel between that and Mofcow. That it abounded with fables and other furs ; that it was not as yet known but it might alfo afford other com- modities of value, and that the in- habitants were juft like thofe we ror. have been talking of. wYyN3 Upon the eighteenth of September, sept. 18. we hada violent ftorm which blew off 4 greae the roofs of feveral houfes. I was then/”™ at dinner with the Sieur Houtman, little dreaming of what was to come to pafs; but going out of the houfe, there fell feveral timbers and planks clofe by me, and made me hurry into the houfe again. As thofe in the houfe had been fenfible of no- thing of the kind, they were furpriz- ed at what I told them, and fome- ' body going up to the garret, found moft of the roof demolifhed, and™ we returned our thanks to God for my prefervation. , | Upon the twenty-fifth, about noon, vival of there arrived 500 dragoons from?” Lae Mofcow, in four barks. It was up- goons. on a Sunday, and every body ran to the water fide; and as every one had his beft cloaths on, it was a fight agreeable enough. Our laft fhips departed on the pesorrame fourteenth of Oétober tor Holland, and of the hips got happily to fea, except the Whitetr Bot. Eagle, who ran afhore by the mea~ ~ dows. ‘They were obliged to take out half her loading to get her afloat again; and even that would not have faved her, if the weather had been lefs fair than it was. Upon the mzneteenth fhe got out to fea with the reft, RUS TRUS UUs OS ES eS MOLES HLS RESUS OS ACRES CHAP. IIL A Defcription of Archangel. Abundance of Provifions. Re- venue of the Cuftoms, 8c. 1701. BOUT a@ mile and a half to CAN the weftward of Archangel, the 7 Czar’s Czar hasa fine and pleafant yard, by wr" “iekelf, for building of fhips. All fhipping that go and come pafs by it. There were feveral at anchor, waiting for others to make up a fleet homeward bound, whenI drew the aor, profpect in Nero. This dock-yard 19 O&. is diftinguifhed by the letter A. At m) a point of land in the river, you may obferve a fhip with her decks unlaid. The village hard by, ac the letter B, is called Szrambol. The city of Archangel is in the a, choy. north-weftern parts of Mu/fcovy, and gel. lies to the north-eaftward of the Dwina, which falls into the fea about fix leagues lower. It lies along the banks of the river, and may be up- wards The TRA VEL § oR 1701. wards of two miles long, and about \v™ three quarters of a mile in breadth. 15 dioufly provided for as the merchants 1707, that are foreigners. The {pace or “VA ThePalace. Its chief building is the palace, which is of free-ftone, and divided into three parts. The foreign merchants have their goods and fome apartments in the firft, which is to the left as you come up from the river: And here alfo are lodged the merchants that come annually from Mu/cow, and {tay till the laft fhips return home. Strangers that come annually, are accommodated here, and in like manner; but foon after the fhips are gone, which is generally in Od¢o- ber, they remove to other places till they go back to Mo/cow, in the months of November and December, when the ways are proper for a fledge to move upon the fnow; and the ice fo ftrong that the rivers may be crofied. As you go into the palace, you go under a great gate, which ad- Court of Fuftice. mits you into a {quare court, where are the warehoufes to the right and to the left. Above, there is a long gallery, to which you may go up by two ftair-cafes, and from whence you go to the lodgings of the mer- chants we mentioned juft now. The fecond part of this palace has a gate like the firft, and there you have another building: At the end of which is the town-houfe, with feve- ral apartments in it. You go up fome fteps, and then you come into a long gallery, from whence on the left-hand you go into the place where they keep their courts; above which there is a door that goes into the ftreet. The fentences are all exe- cuted in this palace, except in cafes of condemnation to death, which are exhibited in the places appointed by the fentence. The things belong- ing to his Czarian Majefty are kept in this palace, in magazines of wood and ftone, erected for the purpofe, though they are fometimes ufed by the merchants. When you have pafied the third gate, you fee another body of building, for what belongs to the Ru/fans, and where alfo the merchants of that nation have their abode; but they are not fo commo- {quare before this palace is pretty large, and goes down quite to the river. When fhips come here in fummer, they raife two great timber bridges, that jet out into the river, for the convenience of loading and unloading. The bridges they have for corn are pretty large. The citadel, where the governor Te Citas takes up his refidence, is full of # fhops, where the Ru/ians, who come at the time of the fair, expofe their merchandife. It is furrounded with a wall of wood, which ftretches down to the river. All the houfes of this city are of Buildings: wood, or to fpeak plainer, are built of vaft pieces of timber join’d toge- ther, and look odd enough from without; and yet in fome of the principal houfes you may meet with fine apartments, and _ particularly among the foreign merchants. The walls of them are even and fmooth within, and wainfcotted with boards 3 the timbers being only, or chiefly, for {upport. There is commonly a {tove toeachroom, which they light g,,..,4. from without; moft of them are very large, and fo contrived as to be ornamental. The Merchants from beyond fea, for fo they call the chri- {tian ftrangers that live among them, are as nice in their houfes as the niceft among ourfelves; their apart- ments are full of pictures, and finely furnifhed. The ftreets are covered with broken ,,;, timbers, and fo dangerous to crofs, freets. that a man continually runs the ha- zard of falling and doing himfelf a mifchief; befides, that they are full of the rubbifh of houfes, which, in many places, looks like the ruins of a fire: but the fnow that falls in Winter covers and makes all {mooth and even. There are two churches in this Techurch city, the one for the Calvinifts, and the * other for the Lutherans, where they preach twice every Sunday. They are not far from each other, by the river-fide. The minifter lives on one fide of the church, andthe church- yard, 16 The “TRAN V ELS vf 7 1701 yard, where they bury after our man- {muglers.When they have ferved their 1701. 1} VN ner, is between both. They have year our, others are fent in their ftead. ~AAQ no fervice in the churches during All the neceflaries of life aboundin Prenty of winter, it is focold; but they meet thiscity: plenty of fowl very Cheap ; Provyfien. Sie a RRR TOR AN St I ei ah SIO! ees os = i in a room of the minifter’s houfe which is well heated for the purpofe. Prpea of A took a view of this city on the the tity. river from on board one of our fhips at anchor: you have it in N°a1, where every particular is diftinguifh- ed by a numeral figure, or at leaft what is to be feen; as (1) Oc/pinge Bogeroedifza, or the church of the repofe of the Virgin Mary. (2) The Lutheran Church. (3) The church of the Calviniffs. (4) The palace of Germany. (5) The court of ju- {tice and arfenal of the great Duke. (6) The Ruffian palace. (7) The houfe of the Goof or great cufto- mer, upon theriver. (8) The great church. (9) Thecitadel. ‘The Go- vernor had formerly an abfolute pow- er over this city, but the form of its government was changed laft year, and four Burgomatters were appoint- ed; the firft of which lives in the "city, the fecond at Kolmegra, and the two others in the neighbouring places: fo that the authority of the gover- nor is confined to the militia, the Burgomafters being at the head of the civil affairs, and the police. Every year, about the time the mer- chants arrive, there comes a great cuftomer, or mafter of the cuftoms, to watch over the duties belonging to his Czarian Majefty, and to buy what the court has occafion for. This great officer has four affiftants or deputies who aét in his abfence, and are intitled Goftieni-Sotni, or Sub-Delegates; from among which he himfelf is chofen. Befides thefe, there are others taken from among the people, a number not limited, who are employed in the towns and villages. ‘Thefe people are obliged to ferve, for a year, without pay or reward, and to obey all orders from the chiefs of the cuftoms and their de- puties; with regard had to the duties and revenues arifing to the greatDuke. They are fent every where, and, in cafe of need, have foldiers allowed them to prevent frauds and {eize a partridge is not worth above two- ence. ‘There are two forts of them, the firft of which light upon trees, and look like owls, but are perfect- ly good: the others are white in winter, an extraordinary thing, and, in the language of the country, are called Koeroptic. There are alfo here two forts of Tefters, birds as big as our turkeys, and of a fine feather: the cocks are commonly black, with a mixture of a very deep blue; the hens are fmaller, and {peckled with grey. Hares are to the full as plenty, and fell but for a groat a-piece; they are white in winter, and the rabbits are black, Woodcocks are there worth twos pence or three-pence a-piece. You have there alfo plenty of ducks, and, among the reft, a fort called Gagares, who are very fwift of flight, and mount vattly aloft. While they are on the wing, they make a noife nor very unlike the human voice. They {wim with as much rapidity as they fly, but they cannot run, becaufe their feet come out from bebind. The rivers abound with fith; you pier a. may here have as many perch as bound with would ferye twenty people for twen-/”- ty-pence. The beft are the Karoet/e; they are the fmalleft, but of fuch a flavour, as, I believe, is unknown in our country; and therefore I pre- ferved fome of them in fpirits. In fhape they are very nearly like a roach, brown, with bright and fhin- ing fcales. The pike is alfo very common here, as well as a delicious kind of {mall eels. Plenty alfo here is of {melts, gudgeons, roach, whit- ings, flounders, and a brown fith, they call Garzus, of a moft exquifite tafte, and nearly the fize of a mel- vel or fmallcodd. All thefe fithare taken about twelve miles from the city, ina certain gulf or bay, form-, ed by the river, and where the wa- ter is ftill. It were needlefs ta talk - of the falmon, which every body knows is from hence fent, falted 4 and bi By neat eke penne 6 eee: Mey eam 4 ey he . 4 A 4 t 7 ° 5 GTR PL | et OAR EIN see SIAR TRE MEISE 5s | Sh ci ae | ie | sep The TRAVELS of 17 1701, and fmoaked, to all parts. There migsberg and Dantzick; fo that the 1701. Uv is alfo a white fort of them, the whole trade of Ru/ffia is now center-“Yw ; ‘ * ae 4 ; i | * Mufcovites call Meelma, and are taken upon the coafts of Lapland, which are dried before they are fent abroad. I faw one not very unlike a ray, and about two foot over behind, which they call Pa/ciskaet: they find two mice in him, called Miskz, and a medicinal oil. ed in Archangel. ‘They compute al- fo that his Czarian Majefty has, this year, received, upon the goods from ~ the arrival of the firft fhip, in this port, tothe laft, the fum of 130,000 rubles, or 260,000 rixdollars. It is an agreement that half thefe duties be paid in rubles, the other half Meat. Meat alfo abounds in the market; in golden ducats; and if payment you there buy the beft beef in the was offered to be made all in du- world for a penny a pound; a lamb, cats, they would not receive it, tho’ of about fix weeks, for fifteen-pence; they never refufe rix-dollars, This ‘a calf of the fame.age for thirty is to be underftood of foreign goods, or forty-pence, according to the fea- the chief of which are goldand filver fon. Every body here breeds tur- ftuffs, and filks, cloths, ferges, gold kies. You may have four or five and filver laces, &c. gold wyre, in- fowls, or a goofe, for feven oreight- digo, and other materials for dying. pence. Their beer is very good, but But to return to the cuftoms, levied muft be neither fold nor brewed upon foreign merchandife, it is to without a grant from the great Duke, be obferved, that from the year which is allowed for a certain yearly 1667, to 1699, they paid the fum fum: but an inhabitant may brew of twenty rix-dollars on every cafk of as much as he wants for his family wine,whereas for three years paft they upon paying the value of fifty pence have paid but five. They neverthelefs for a certain number of quarters of pay thirty fix rix-dollars onevery bar- malt. There are even thofe who rel of brandy, and forty ona pipe of are free from this excife, Spanifh wine containing two barrels, Wine and Wine and brandy are brought hi- From Mojcovy, into other parts, brandy. ther by fea from France; but the they export pot-afhes, and weed- laft is very dear becaufe of the heavy duty upon it. However they ex- tract a kind of malt fpirit, which is - _ very good, and fold reafonably e- nough. Strangers drink no other. Revenue of ‘The Czar has, every year, a con- the cuftoms. Gderable revenue levied upon this city. It was formerly faid the du- ties amounted to 300,000 rubles; but upon an exa& inquiry I found they did not, in my time, reach be- yond 180, or 190,000, of the fame rubles, each being about equivalent to ¢ florins of Dutch money. There ufually arrived thirty or thirty five of our fhips in a year; but in this laft there came fifty, befides thirty three Ezgli/h; to which, if we add the fhips from Hamburg, Denmark, and Bremen, the whole will amount to one hundred and three fail: the reafon of which was the war with Sweden, which put a ftop to the trade the Mu/covztes carried on with Riga, Nerva, Revel, and even Kon- Meu 1 afhes for foap, leather, hemp, tal- low, elks, other fkins, and furs; all goods of the natural growth of the country. They fay alfo, that the rivers of Kola, Warfigha, Wufina, and Solia, produce muicies that yield a very good fort of pearl. They are fometimes worth twenty five flo- rins a-piece, and even twice that money in the neighbourhood of Ombacy. This is all I was able to inform myfelf during the time I ftaid here; what hours I had to f{pare, 1 dedi- cated to the converfation of the Sieurs Brants and Lup, who made it their bufinefs to oblige me. They there divert themfelves with gaming, danc- ing, drinking and eating, and even till it is pretty late in the night. Mr. Brants contributed no {mall {hare to thefe diverfions, being a great lover of mufic, and an excellent performer upon the harpfichord. E CHAP. | 18 The TRAVELS of OME A . Posy The Author goes from Archangel. How the Ruffians travel in Winter. Defcription of Wologda and of the Monaftery of Trooyts. His Arrival at Motcow. a 1701. LEFT Archangel upon the being increafed by other rivers in its 1701. | wvw™ —_-- il te ey el onl eee ee from Arch- with Mr. Kinfius, who had two fol- angel. diers with him, and a Podwoden, or an order for horfes upon the road gratis, though the people however get fome money upon the occa- fion. He had fix fledges, to which I added mine, having difpofed of my baggage among that of Mr. Brants. When you refolve upon Manner ofthis journey, you muft provide your travelling. felf with fledges at Archangel, for caine lages, we, upon the fwenty fecond, weather, and pafied through feveral i about three in the afternoon, came woods full of fir, of two forts; the to Kolmogora, about fifty werfts from branches of the one fhooting out ac ao Archangel. the fides of the trunk, and of the you can meet with no Horfes upon the road. The fledges are fo con- trived that a perfon may lie along in them very conveniently : you muft have your own bed, and good things to cover you up warm from the cold, which is excefiive in this coun- try. The hinder part of the fledge they cover with matts, and the reft they line either with cloth or lea- ther. Then over-head you have a {kin lin’d with cloth or leather, to keep off the rain and fnow. They travel day and night, each fledge with two horfes, which they change every fifteen werfts, five of which make a German league. The Ru/- fians cry out werfla, at the end of every werft, which at prefent con- tains about a hundred fathom, each fathom three arfiennes, or Dutch ells. You go out of the fledge but once a day to refrefh your felf. Hav- ing pafled through feveral vil- This city is pretty large, and to Land ; Dec. 22. the fouthweft of the Dwina, one of the chief rivers of Ru/ia. It rifes in the fouthern parts of the province of Wologda, and after a long courfe, twenty firft of December, about way, it, by two mouths, difcharges“V~ ‘a | 21 Dec. shyee in the afternoon, in company itfelf into the White-Sea, a little Departure below Archangel. Mr. Kinfius being acquainted with theV/adzka, or Arch- bifhop of this city, we went to pay him a vifit. lent beer, the common drink of the country. He gave us alfo fome Egyp- tian dates, and feveral other refrefh- ments. He was aman of fifty years of age, and his name was Afona/f. He refided in his own palace, which is pretty large, and joins to the mo- naftery. Having paffed two very agreeable hours with this prelate, a man of good fenfe, and a lover of polite learning, he carried us to fee an armory he had below; in which, among others, were two {mall brafs guns of his own cafting, and two iron pieces taken out of the Swedi/h veflels we formerly fpoke of. When we took leave of him, he ordered five of his clergy to attend us to our inn; one of them carrying five loaves, and the others dried fifth and other refrefhments, Abour ten at night we went away with frefh horfes, which we had fome trouble to pro- cure, becaufe a number of travel- lers, provided with Podwodens as wellas we, had lately pafled by, and taken up almoft all the horfes in the town. Upon the twenty third we had fine other only from the head. There were alfo alders and birch-trees. From hence we went on to {feveral villages, and at length to Saske, the laft in the jurifdictien of Archangel. From He received us very ond kindly, and treated us with cinna- jor mon-water, red wine, and an excel- mogora. ee Ne Ur ot eT eee ee eS Tene ee, Bhd. we ol hac: leek gh te EO ea NR ie s Sate GORNEE?U & lh EB Re Ue Yom 1701. From thence, upon the twenty fourth —vY™ we got to Brie/nick, in the country 49 of Churches; they are covered with 1701. plate-tin, and have large crofles. InvvVW Schenker- fke. of Waeg, where we took freth horfes, and were feveral times to crofs the river of that name. Upon the twenty fifth we arrived at Schenkerske, the capital of the country of Waeg, upon the fame river. Upon the twenty fixth we went through a great village, called Virghowaesje, where, once a week, they have a great mar- ket. Upon the twenty feventh to Soloti. Upon the twenty eighth, hav- ing pafled through feveral villages, we crofled the great foreft of Kome- naf, full twenty werfts in breadth, and came to Dwienit/e, upon the river of the fame name, where we were told that three Ruffian mer- chants, from Archangel, had not long before been plundered by twen- ty fix robbers on the highway; that one of thefe robbers had taken away a filver crofs from the chief of thefe merchants, a man [ knew, though his companions had done all they could to prevent him; the crofs here being ufually worn on the breaft, and held in great veneration: that even this rafcal wore a crofs himfelf, ‘which he took from his own neck Wologda. and put about the merchant’s, faying, There, now we have changed croffes we are brethren. This piece of news gave us a good deal of uneafinefs ; but having weighed the matter, we refolved to pufh on, and not wait for the merchants that might come from Archangel, and got ready our arms to defend us in cafe of need. Upon the fwenty ninth we got to Rabanga, upon the river Soegue, and from thence reached Wologda about three in the afternoon. This city makes a good figure on this fide. We got out at the houfe of the Sieur this city alfo there are twenty other churches of ftone, moft of which have alfo domes covered with tin, and furmounted by guilt croffes, and have a fine effect when the {un fhines upon them; _befides forty three other churches of wood, three convents of monks, and one cloifter of nuns, whofe chief ornament is a church of ftone, built in the midft, and encompafied with wooden cells for the nuns, in a private place, which you go into by a {mall door. Having takena fufficient view of thefe buildings, I went to fee the markets: they are full of thops, markers. and I took notice that each article has a feparate place for the fale of it; as meat inone place, wood in another, and fo on. . From thence I went through the gate of a great building which has never been compleated, and was begun by the Czar Ivan Vafialewitz, who defigned it for a citadel ; but the fear they were then under of the Zartars, who had made this Prince retire from Mofcow, was the caufe it was never finifhed. I then went to walk on the fide of the river Wologda, which runs thro’ this city. The other fide which is not fo fine, is called Dofre/éne, which, though it be part of one and the fame city, has neverthelefs another gover- nor. Itisa good league in length, and a quarter of a league in breadth, more or lefs, in fome places. It is the thoroughfare for all the goods that come from Archangel; and there are, at this time, three or four warehoufes for the goods belonging to our nation. This city is in 59 degrees, 15 minutes, of northern latitude, on the eaft of the river, which is pretty broad. Upon the ¢hirteenth, at ten at night, 1701. we fet out from hence, and about Dec. 30. fix the next morning we reached“ V™ Wouter Ewouts de ‘fongh, a Dutch merchant, 1 was acquainted with at The church. 1701. Dec. 29. Archangel, who received us with great civility. The next day I walk- ed about the town, and faw the great church called Saboor: it is a fine building, by the Ita/ian archite&t who worked at the caftle of Mo/cow. This church has five domes, which the Rifians call Glafa, ot Heads 4 Greelnewits, having travelled forty werfts. We there baited our horfes, and need they had of it, for we had ftill twenty werfts togo. ‘That day we met with fifty fledges, fome of which had left Archangel before we did, and fome after. But we did not all travel the fame way ; there were eS nee een eS a ee =F. si 1g | i i 20 Oo RINIRIL Tse © EB RUE ON 1701. were but twenty of them that look- iy N'ed towards Mofcow, and at noon we arrived at Odfnorkoy-jam, whi- ther we had difpatched a foldier be- foreus, to get us frefh horfes. Six- ty feven werfts from thence we came Daniflof. to Daniflofskoy, a fine and large burgh, skoy. where there is trade, and a fine ftud of horfes, above two thoufand of : which belonged to the Czar. 1702. The firft day of the year 1708, Jan.1. We came to fereflaw, one of the “WN chief cities of Rufia ; the Volga runs De ich not far off, and is there very broad; andKotris. we crofied it, and then the Kofris; not far from whence to the fouth- ward, it falls into the Volga. ‘There is a great number of {tone churches in this city, which I fhall have e- nough to fay of hereafter, having, at my return, taken views of them all. When we had croffed the Ko- tris, we went into a fuburb called Troepenoe, where we changed horfes. We left that place at ten at night, Roftof, and upon the /econd we came to Ro/- tof, which we only traverfed. The Archbifhop has his refidence in this city, full of ftone churches, which are a great ornament to it. It is feated, to the right of the lake of the fame name. When we had crof- fed this lake, we difcerned a great number of fmall villages, moft of whofe inhabitants live upon garlic and onions. The monaftery of Peu- 1702. ter Zarowitz, which 1s furrounded Jan. 3- with fome houfes, is but half a league off. Atone in the afternoon we came to Waske, having travelled thirty eight werf{ts: we there dined, and at the end of twenty werfts more Pereflaw We came to Pere/law Soleskoy, capi- Soleskoy. tal of the province of that name; it is but a poor fort of a city, and ftands upon a lake. It was nine of the clock when we came thither, and we left it at midnight. Upon the ¢hird, about fix in the morning, we went thro’ Tzerie berewa. From Trooytz. thence to Trosyts you muft continu- ally go up and down {mall hills, for the {pace of thirty werfts. Reach- ing this laft place, about one in the jis fine Afternoon, we went to fee the fa- monafery. Mous monaftery of the name, which 4. we had paffed by as we came in r702. with the village. It is furrounded “y~o with a fine and high wall of ftone, which is the material throughout the whole fabric. At the corners of this wall, which is fquare, are fine nobie and large round towers; between which there are others that are fquare. Two of thefe laft you have upon the front, they are the fineft, and the road goes by them. This monaftery, which has three gates in front, is a good quarter of a league from the village which lies to the right-hand of it, as you go to Mofcow: thatin the middle, which I chofe to go in by, had two arcades, under which there was a little corps de garde, where there were {oldiers, as well as to that without. When you are through this gate, you fee the principal church ftanding in the middle, and feparate from the reft . of the buildings. His Czarian Ma- jefty’s apartment, very fumprtuous and royal without, is on the right- hand; and the front being very ex- tenfive, you go upto it by two flights of fteps: it is feveral ftories high; but the infide does by no means cor- refpond with the out. The refec- tory, another great edifice, is oppo- fite to this and like ic. All the win- dows are adorned with little pillars, and the {tones are painted of feveral colours. The church we juft now mentioned is between thefe two. There are four others confiderable, and five {maller. From without, this monaftery has the look of a fortrefs ; and the archimandrite or abbot, is the chief in authority. Here are commonly two or three hundred monks, and fome of them attended us every where with a good deal of civility. This monaftery is rich in endowments, levying its revenues up- on 60,000 peafants that depend there- on ; not to {peak of the great perfona- ges here intombed, nor the mafies thatare here celebrated, and the like — from whence much profit mutt arife, This village is pretty long, and on the right-hand fide is full of far- riers fhops, with pofts to fhoe horfes at. Thirty werfts from hence, we came | ; . 1702: CORNELIOGOS LEI EBRUYN came to the village of Brato Fiena, \“V~\ where we were obliged to ftay till midnight, to have our baggage fearched, which is here to be feal- ed, and not opened again till in the Arrival at cuftom-houfe at Mofcow, where we ofcow. 1702. a aw J Czars. arrived upon the fourth, at eight in the morning, and alighted at the flabode, or privileged quarter of the Germans, where moft of the ftran- gers take up their abode; though there are thofe of them that live in the city. commended by Mr. Brants, who lived in the fame place, and was but juft arrived from Archangel. The Czar paid him a vifit the next day, attended by feveral Lords of his court in fledges, of which his Majefty’s made the leaft fhow. This vifit lafted for two hours; and this was the firft time I had the honour of fecing this mighty Monarch: Geli A fee, The Author is admitted to the Prefence of his Czarian Ma- jefty. Confecration of the Water and Fire-work at Mofcow. Byrs fince the year 1649, it has been a cuftom with the Vifitsof the Czars of Mu/fcovy to vifit the chief of their own fubjects, or of the fo- reigners, whether in the city of Mdo/~ cow it felf, or in the flabode of the Germans, a little before Twelfth-day. On this occafion the perfon honoured gives atreat, and this they call fla- weien. They go attended with the Princes, Lords, and other great per- fonages of their court. This cere- mony began the year 1702, upon the third of ‘fanuary old ftile. The firft vific was to Mr. Brandts, where about nine in the morning the Czar came, and about three hundred per- fons in fledges and on horfe-back. The tables were covered in very good erder, and ferved immediately with feveral dainties of cold meats, and afterwards hot. They were very merry, and there was no want of liquor. His Majefty withdrew about two in the afternoon, and went thence with his whole court to Mr. Lups, where he was treated in the fame manner, and from thence to feveral other places. Then they went to reft themfelves in houfes pre- pared for that purpofe. The next day, among others, he paid a vifit to our Refident Mr. Hu/#, This Mi- Vou. IL nifter made mention of me to the Czar, upon the recommendation of Mr. Witfen, Burgo-mafter, and Counfellor of the city of Am/terdam, and did me the honour to invite me; and ordered that I fhould be placed in aroom, through which the Czar was to pafs. As luck would have it the Knez or Prince of Troebetshkooy came into this place, and having no knowledge of me, and perceiving me to be a ftranger, he afked me, in Italian, if 1 underftood that language; I told him I did, with which he feemed to be much pleafed, and had a pretty long difcourfe with me con- cerning Italy, and other countries where he had been as well as I. Hereupon he went to give his Majefty an account of what had pafled, and he had the curiofity to come with all his train, to the place where I was; but not expecting him fo foon, I was a little ih confufion,,,, , though upon a recovery of myfelf, peaks t0 I made my addrefs to him with at Cxar. moft profound refpect. He feemed furprized at it, and afked me in Dutch, Hoe weet gy wie ik ben? en hoe Romt gy my te kennen? “ How is “< it you know who I am? and how “comes it you know me?” I an- {wered I had feen his picture at Sir G Godfrey 21 I went dire@tly to Mr. 17023 furtfen's, to whom I had been re-“YNJ ae ee Aa eee 154 eae ee MN TR Mina : i 22 CO RMP. 82/2 EB. RIEU? YON: 1702. Godfrey Kneller’s in London, and that’ 4000 men, that they had taken 1702; Ly it made too deep an impreffion upon fome hundreds of prifoners, and that eww my mind to be defaced. As he did not feem quite to approve of this an{wer, I added, that I had befides, had the honour to fee him come out of his court, when he went to Mr. Brandts, which feemed to pleafe him better. He afked me of what town I was; who were my parents; if they were ftill alive; and if I had brothers and fifters. Having return- ed the proper anfwers, he afked me fome queftions about my firft travels, what year I fet out, how long I was about them, in what manner I tra- velled, and how I returned again. He then talked to me about Egypt, the Nile, and Grand Cairo; of its extent and buildings, of the ftate and condition of what belonged to the Old Cairo, of Alexandria, and feve- ral other places, adding he was fen- fible there was another place called Alexandretta. told him, this laft place was the fea-port for Aleppo, and acquainted him with the diftance between them. All this the Czar afked me in Dutch, and would have me continue to fpeak in that lan- guage, faying he underftood me very well. And it appeared that he did fo; for he explained all I had faid to the Ruffan Lords that attended him, with a nicety which furprized the Refident and the reft of the Dutch, We then ordered me to {peak Itahan, to the Knez or Prince Troebetskooy, who underftood it pretty well, and then he left me. After he had been three good hours with Monfieur the Refident, he went to make fome other vifits in the flabode, _ becaufe it was the laft day; the fef- tival of the confecration of the wa- ter, being to be celebrated the next day, and the Monday being the 6th of Ffanuary, old ftile. That day the fon of General Bories Petrowitz Cze- remetof arrived, and while his Cza- rian Majefty was at church, brought him the agreeable news of the defeat of the Swedes by the Mofcovites in Livonia, 5 or 6 leagues from the town of Deript. He informed him the Swedes had, in this battle, loft 3 among them were feveral. officers. This Nobleman, who was in the action, and had been difpatched by his father with thefe glad tidings, ac- quitted himfelf fo handfomly, that he infpired an univerfal joy. The feftival I juft now mention, is in re- membrance of the manifeftation of Jefus Chrift, and I was an eye-wit- nef{s of it. In the river of “foufz, and not far Rpival of from the caftle they made a {quare #¢ Coxj- hole in the ice which was 13 footyj’y77,. from corner to corner, or 52 feet in circumference. This hole was inclofed by a curious piece of wood- en-work, having at each angle of it a pillar, which fupported a kind of cornifh, whereon were four pannels painted in the form of arches, and at each corner a reprefentation of one of the evangelifts, and above all two kind of half domes, upon the middle of which was a large crofs. Thefe pannels, which were alfo pain- ted within, reprefented apoftles, and other holy perfonages. » The fineft piece of all this, to the eaft of the river, was the baptifm of our Lord, by St. ‘Yobn, in the river Fordan, with four angels on the right. Each of thefe pannels had on the outfide painted upon them five angels heads with wings. There were four fteps on the weft fide of this hole, to which they had fixed a confiderable q i ) weight of lead to make them fink in the water. The patriarch or the perfon that performs this ceremony, {tood upon thefe fteps quite to the water, which was in this place eight foot deep.. Upon the ground they had fpread large red carpets, fur- rounded with a fquare inclofure, 45 paces from corner to corner, or 180 _ in circumference. This inclofure had two others in the nature of baluftrades, at the diftance of four paces from each other, four foot high, and, in like manner, covered with red cloths or carpets. They had erected three handfome wooden al- tars to the weftward near the edge of the hole. Four doors gave ad- miflion We TRAVELS: @ 23 1702. miffion thereto, the chief of which adorned with pearls and precious 1702. wV™ was to the fouthward of the gate of ftones. ‘The grandeft of the prelates ~V™. the caftle. They alfo were painted, but fadly enough, and like the reft, reprefented facred things. Having thoroughly furveyed all this, I went to a rifing ground near the caiftle, between the two gates on the fide of that they call Taynaimskze, or the Se- cret Gate, to fee the proceflion pafs ‘by. It began to move about eleven of the clock, from out of the church of Sabour, that is, the place of the affembly vf the faints, which is in the caftle, and the chief of all the churches in Mofcow. ‘This proceflion confifted wholly of churchmen excepting fome perfons in common dreffes who led the way with ftandards made faft to large ftaves. The churchmen were all in their prieftly habits, and made a very fine fhow. The more infe- rior priefts and the monks, to the number of about 200 came on firft, preceded by feveral chorifters and finging boys in common habits, with each a book in his hand. On each hand they were guarded with armed foldiers, while others with ftaves at- tended them to clear the way. After. thefe appeared all fuch as wore the epifcopal habit, being about 300 in number. The 12 firft were metro- politans or cardinals, ina habit com- monly called Sackoffe. After thefe came four archbifhops and three bi- {hops and a great number of archi- mandrites, or fuperiors of convents. When about 200 of thefe laft had gone by, you faw every thing thefe priefts carried in proceffion, as a pole with a lanthern, reprefenting the light of the word of God, in ho- nour of the pictures of the faints, or to give them an air of grandeur. Two cherubims, they call Lepieds, at the end of two poles like the for- mer; then two croffes; a picture of Fefus Chrif, half-length, almoft as big as the life; a great book, and then 20 gold and filver caps, adorn- ed with jewels, and carried feparate- ly, each by a perfon appointed. The ceremony over, the chief of thofe prefent appeared in thofe caps, that of the metropolitan being of gold, alfo wear thefe caps, which they call mietris [mitres]. ‘This metropoli- tan who reprefented the patriarch, came immediately after the grear book and had in his hands a great gold crofs, inriched with jewels, which every now and then touched his forehead, and a prieft had him under each arm to fupport him. Be- ing in this order got to the fide of the river, and their ceremonies, which took up a good half-hour, were all over, the metropolitan drew near to the water, and three times dipped the crofs into it faying, as the patriarch was wont to fay, SPACI GOSPODI. LUDI TWOYA, I BLAGOSL OWI DOSTOANIA TWOYA. God preferve bis people, and blefs his in= heritance. 'Vhey then returned to- wards the caftle, but the 290 priefts that had preceded as the procefii- on went out, returned not back in the fame order, but difperfed. Thofe who had the facerdotal or epifcopal habit walked back in good order, Among others, I obferved two men, very poorly drefled, with a tub or fomething of the kind which covered up with a cloth, could not well be diftinguifhed. This veffel was fol- lowed by another, and carried in the fame manner, with a pewter pot full of the water, which having been bleffed was carried to the caftle to fprinkle the apartments, and the paintings. As foon as the proceffion had got in again, they hurried back every thing that had been as a de- coration to the water; and I took notice thata Adu/covite fouled a great broom into the water, and wafhed the {pectators with it; but they did not feem to bea bit the better for it; and in fhort, I thought there was fomething ridiculous in this part of the folemnity. This proceflion, which lafted till two in the afternoon; had drawn together a_ prodigious throng of people, a fight well worth the feeing, if there had been no- thing elfe, and had a fine effect upon the river, the caftle being upon an eminence 24 1702. The TRAVELS of eminence we could from thence {ee Wy all the multitude even to thofe upon Rejoicings for the vic- tory over theSawedes. the walls. As we were going home again, and had got to the gate of the caftle, there was fuch a crowd that we had much ado to get out of it. And indeed our curiofity had like to have coft us dear, betides the danger of ftanding fo long in the fnow. This feftival was formerly cele- brated with much more pomp and folemnity than at prefent, it having been cuftomary for their Majefties, and the Grandees of ftate to be pre- fent thereat. But the prefent Czar has made great alteration in this, as well as in every thing elfe. We fhall talk more about this in the fequel. The znth of this month it began to thaw, and even to rain, the wea- ther being much more open, than had been known for many years be- fore. Upon the eleventh, there were great doings for the victory his Ma- jefty’s arms had obtained of the Swedes. ‘There was a great fire- work on one fide of the caftle, in the middle of the Bazat or market place; which is very low and pret- ty fpacious; and it extended from one end of the place or fquare to the other. They ran up a great boarded building, full of windows tewards the caftle, in which his Majefty entertained the principal Lords of his court; the foreign Mini- fters were there alfo, and particu- larly him of Denmark, and the Re- fident of Holland, together with a great number of Officers, and many merchants from Jeyond-fea. To fhade as well as to adorn this build- ing, there were three rows of bran- ches like young trees, planted before it. The entertainment began at two in the afternoon, and at fix in the evening they began to play the fire- work which turned till nine. : It was raifed upon three great tables or theatres of wood, very lofty and fpa- cious, on which they had feveral fi- gures, nailed to planks and painted of a brown colour. The defign 3 of this fire-work was after a new 1702. manner and different from all of the “WY? kind I had ever feen before. There was in the middle on the right hand, a figure of time, twice as big as the life, with an hour-glaf in his. right, and a palm-branch in his left, hand, which was likewife held by fortune on the other fide with this infcription in the Ruffian, God be therefore praifed. On the left hand towards the boarded-building where his Majefty was, there was a trunk of a tree which a beaver was knaw- ing with thefe words, By perfeverance he fhall be unrooted. Upon the third {tage, on the other fide, there was another trunk of a tree with a young branch fprouting from it, and not far off a very calm fea, upon which appeared a half-fun, which being lighted up looked reddifh, with this device, Hope now appears again. Be- tween thefe ftages there were little f{quare pieces of fire-works, which : continued to burn and were not with- | out their devices. The fecond of thefe fmall fires, near which I hap- ned to be, and which was lighted firft by his Czarian Majefty, reprefen- ted a crofs with four arms, the third a vine-branch, the fourth a bird-cage, with different devices. As thefe were all illuminated after the manner of our country, 1t was eafy to fee what they were meant for. There was moreover in the midft of this place a great Neptune aftride upon a dol- phin, and by him feveral forts of fire- works upon the ground, furrounded with piles to which cafes or fufes were fixed, which had a very fine effect, fome of them forming a gol- den fhower, and others throwing out {tars. When they were upon the point to fet fire to thefe works, fe- veral of the ecclefiaftics and other perfons of diftinétion in the boarded building with his Majefty, came out and went thence into a covered place, in the midft of all this machinery to perform fome ceremonies. There was a guard of foldiers over the gate of this lodge or building, adorned with a number of ftandards. In a word, there is no expreffing the mul- | titude Be De CORNELIUS LE BRUYN. 25 1702. titude of people gathered together ‘upon this occafion.. The Czar’s fil- ter alfo was prefent at this fight, and was with feveral Ladies, upon a tow- er at one end of this market-place. Another tower there was, one of the higheft in this part of the town, il- luminated from top to bottom. The oreat {tages we formerly mentioned burned each of them above a quar- ter of an hour. At the fame time we heard the noife of the artillery, which had been difcharged before the entertainment. When the fire- works were over, the tables were covered again. I withdrew to the flabode, where at ten at night I again heard the report of go great guns, and many afterwards. What was to me the moft extraordinary, upon * fuch an occafion as this, and in fuch 1702. a crowd, there was not the leaft dif: “Vw order ; which indeed mutt be attri- buted to the care that was taken to difpofe of foldiers and guards fo as - might beft prevent any thing of the kind. There were, however, fome French officers who had a quarrel among them, and began to handle their {words, and made a great noife near his Majefty’s lodge; to prevent the confequences of which there was a poft put up near the Dutch church, in the flabode of the Germans, to which were tied a {word and an ax, with the papers affixed in Rujfian, Latin and German, forbidding any perfon whatfoever to draw a fword, or fight a duel upon pain of death. | CUCM ES EME MO ACE ERE eES GHA Pay eV. Al fevere Execution at Mofcow. The magnificent Wedding of one of the Czar’s Favourites. The Author is admitted into the Prefence of the Empre/s, the Widow of his Ma- geftys Brother. 1702, PON the wineteenth of this ac } month there was a terrible ex- is foci ecution at Mo/cow. A woman who execution. had killed her hufband, was con- demned to be buried alive, up to the fhoulders; and having the curiofity to look at her in this condition, I thought fhe looked very frefh and of a good countenance. About her head and neck they had tied a white linen cloth, which fhe got to be undone becaufe it bound her too much. She was guarded by three or four foldiers, who had orders to fuffer nothing to be given to her, either to eat or drink that might prolong her life. But the people had leave to throw into ,the pit where fhe was buried, certain little Kopykkes or pence, which fhe gave thanks for by a motion of her head. The money thus beftowed, is com= V OL wk: monly laid out in little tapers, which are lighted up in honour of certain faints, they call upon, and partly in acoffin. I know -not whether thofe who have the guard of thefe unhap- py women, may not feize on a part of it themfelves, to allow them fome . - refrefhments in private; for fome of -them live a good while in this con- dition; but this died the fecond day after I had feen her. Upon the fame day there was a man burnt alive, for fome crime which I know not. I fhall in the fequel {peak more am- ply of the adminiftration of juftice in this country, and therefore fhall proceed with my narration accor- ding to the order of time. Upon the ¢wenty-/ixth, they cele- 4 flemn brated the marriage of a certain fa. *4#8- vourite of the Czar’s, called Frelaet Prienewitz Souskie, a Mufcovite No- bleman, 26 ee ET ROA VE LOS” of 1702. bleman, with the Knezna, or Prin-’ Prince, who isa good figure on horfe- 1702. vw cels Mary Swrjovena Schorkofskaja, back, added not a little to the fplen- “~V~ fitter of the Kuez Eedder Swrewitz ' Schorkofskaja, a favourite alfo with his Majefty. To this folemnity this Prince invited the principal Lords and Ladies of the court, and the foreign Minifters, and fome of the beyond-/ea Merchants and their wives. All that were invited were ordered to drefs af- ter the ancient manner of the country, more or lefs richly, according to the regulation in that cafe prefcribed. The wedding was in the flabode of the Germans, at the hotel of General le Force, who had fome years been dead. Ic is a great building, after the Italian mode, and you go up - to it by fteps to the right and the left, becaufe of its extent; and in it are magnificent apartments, and a very fine falon, which was hung with rich tapeftry, and the place of the folemnity. Here you faw two great leopards with a chain about their necks, and with their fore paws up- on anefcutcheon all of maffy filver ; as alfo a large globe of filver upon the fhoulders of an, 4¢/as of the fame metal, befides great vafes, and other pieces of plate which had been partly brought from the Czar’s trea- fury. The place they were to meet at, for the cavalcade, was in the city, near the caftle, in two great buildings oppofite the one to the other. The Great Duke, and all the guefts repaired to thefe early in the morning, the men in the one, the Ladies in the other. They came out about ten of the clock to go to the caftle, in the middle of which I had got to have a fight of this cavalcade, which appeared the finer, as the weather was very fair. Firft came the Czar himfelf upon a proud ‘black courfer, he was habited in a moft magnificent cloth of gold; his upper garment or robe was in- termixed with many figures of fe- veral colours, and on his head he had a great red fur cap. His horfe was richly caparifoned with a fine gold houfing; having upon each fore-leg a filver hoop of four inches broad. The majeftic air of this sug dor of the fight, which it muft be owned, was quite royal. On his left hand he had the Prince Alex- ander Daniclewitz de Menzikof, dref- fed in the fame gold ftuff, and mount- ed upon a very fine {teed, nobly adorn- ed, and with filver hoops about his legs like thofe of his mafter’s horfe. The principal Knezes or Princes fol- lowed two and two according to their rank, all on horfeback, and dreffed the fame, to the number of 48. The Czar being in this manner come to the caftle, he there ftopped to wait for the reft, in the mean time ma- king his horfe prance and curvette. He was near the gate of the Ewa- ritz, or the court, where are his own apartments, and overhead was the !Princefs his fifter, the Emprefs widow of the late Czar, and her . three daughters who all fat in an open place. When he went under this gate, the Princeffes faluted him with a moft profound refpect, and he took care to return the compli- ment to the full. All thefe Nobles being thus pafied on, by two and two, there advanced a number of lights, furrounded by a great body of footmen; and then 120 of the chiefs of the court, two and two, and clad like the former. Thefe were fol- lowed by goofts or cuftomers, our Refident, and the foreign Merchants, whofe habit and caps were quite dif- ferent from the reft. They had in- deed yellow boots, but their caps were low and common, and nothing at all for magnificence, compared with the others. ‘Thefe were to the number of 34; fo that in this cavalcade we may reckon there were 204. perfons all for the moft pare richly equipt. Many of their horfes had filver bits, and fome of them had chains of the fame, two fingers broad, pretty thick, and hung from the top of the horfe’s head to the bridle and faftned to the pummel of the faddle, which made an a- ereeable jingle. There were fome who had them quite flat and only of plate-tin. After thefe there ap- peared CORNELIWS 1702. peared five fledges, in the three firft “VN of which were the three German LE. BRO Y N. 27 my lodging, and afterwards pitched r7ar. upon a good place in the flabode,“ VW doctors, and in the two others, the two moft ancient merchants of our country. ‘Thefe were followed by a great chariot or waggon covered with red cloth, and defigned for the two Emprefles. Thus it is the Rufians cali thofe his Czarian Ma- jefty is pleafed to appoint to appear, as Ladies. of the ftate, in this cere- mony and fuch like it. The firft of the Ladies, the wife of the Knez Fudder Scuferwitz Romodanoski, who commands in Mo/cow in the abfence of the Czar, was indifpofed, and could not be there; fo that the other, the wife of Ivanawitz Boeterlien ap- peared alone. Upon her head fhe had a {mall white high-crowned felt with a narrow brim, with two maids of honour feated oppofite to her in the chariot, waggon, or coach, which was drawn by twelve white horfes, and furrounded with fervants inred. ‘This was followed by twen- ty five others fmaller, but covered the fame with two white horfes, in one of which was the bride, and Ruffian Ladies in the reft. Among thefe there was an ugly little fledge, faftned to the tail of a poor creature of a horfe, and in it a little mean- looking fellow, of a piece. with his carriage and dreffed like a Few. I guefled he was drawn in this man- ner for fome crime he had commit- ted, and fo I afterwards underftood it to have been from people that knew him, and that it was really to punifh him that he made this figure; he being it feems a Jew by. extraction tho’ he had turned to the chriftian faith, There came after thefe feven other fledges filled with Ladies of our nation, followed by fome empty chariots which clofed the proceflion ; which in this order went through the caftle, and a part of the city as far as the church of Bogojaftenja or of the Annunciation, where the marriage ceremony was performed in the prefence of the Czar, and many perfonages of that illuftrious affembly. My curiofity being thus fausfied, I returned to that I might fee them go to the place where they were to have the feaft. ‘They did not come tll three in the afternoon, being then to the number of 500 as well men as wo-. men, who went into different apart- ments where the two fexes could have no fight of each other. The Emprefs Dowager, the Czar’s fifter, and her three daughters were at one table with fome Ladies at court, The bride was at another with other Ladies; and fhe that reprefented the Emprefs was alone and raifed above the reft. The other Ladies, as well Ruffian as others, were in another apartment; and.the mufic was fo placed as to be heard by every bo- dy. After the repaft, which was a royal one, and lafted feveral hours, the bride and bridegroom were con- ducted to the place where they were to confummate the marriage, at a little diftance from the houfe upon the river Yz/a, being a {mall buil- ding erected on purpofe; and where they had an ordinary bed prepared for them. Moft of the company difperfed between ten a clock and midnight; though a great part of them ftaid in the flabode, in houfes prepared and appointed for them, by order of the Czar, that the Ruffans might the more eafily meet together the next day at the fame place, from thence to go to the hotel of the Major General Menefius, whofe wi- dow was ftillalive. She who repre- fented the Emprefs went thither in the night, and the bride went thither early the next morning. The Czar alfo moved towards it about ten of the clock without the attendance of the ftrangers, and having been there about an hour, he went in good or- der to fee Mr. Lups, who waited for him at the door, attended by fome of the merchants of our nation. He there ftopt a little with his train, but alighted not from his horfe, though he was well regaled with liquors. I cannot forbear to mention one 4 prea/an- thing which contributed much to#y. the mirth of this company: The 2 bride- 28: 1702. yw PPO. eC er er eT 4 AEs SSE a Os Th TRA bridegroom was upon a very fine horfe, and another Lord was upon a mare full as beautiful ; both of them warm, and prepared for what was to happen. The horfe failed not to cover her, and the cavalier upon her was fo dextrous as to get off unhurt, while the bridegroom kept his faddle all the time of the action, which caufed a great laugh- ter among the fpectators. They would have done this before, but could not bring it about. “The Cza- rian Prince then appeared on horfe- back, attended by feveral young Lords of his own age, a groom leading his horfe by the bridle. He was followed by the bride’s chariot, and hers by the great one with twelve horfes, with the Lady that reprefented the Emprefs ; and this, by many others, full of Rufian dames. When they came to the palace where the wedding was to be celebrated, and where I had taken care to be by going another way, his Majefty went in firft, and was followed by the bride, who went into another diftin& fet of apartments on the left-hand, and where formerly lived general /e Fort. The great chariot ftopped to make room, it being difficult for it to go on becaufe of its height, and not able to turn the place was fo nar- row. In the midft of this the young Czarian Prince alighted, and ftood by the fide of the chariot, and fo he continued till ic went in, which it did not without fticking at top. Af- ter this the Prince croffed the court of the palace, and the Emprefs a- lighting from her vehicle, went u fome ftairs on the right-hand. The firangers and their wives repaired thither alfo, and ftaid much as they did the night before. The third and the laft day it was refolved to appear in the German drefs, and every body did fo, except fome of the Rufian Ladies: and thus they repaired again to the new married couple, but fe- parately. The men and the women fat at cable together, as the cuftom is with us; and there was dancing _and {kipping about, after the en- tertainment, to the great fatisfaction 9 “~~ V HL, 6. .of of the Czar himfelf, and all his 1702. guefts: and thus ended a folem-~“V nity, which being fo fingular as it is, I concluded every body would be cu- rious to know as much of it as they could. | Upon the /econd of February they brought a part of the Swedi/b pri- foners, mentioned before, in fledges. Upon the fourth they came for me to wait on the Czar, who was at the palace of his great favourite Prince Menzikoff. This palace is called Semennoftkies, the name of a village, a mile and half from the Slabede, where I found his Majefty employed in trying of fome fire in- gines lately arrived from Holland. — This Prince perceiving me, called ' me to him, and went again into the palace. Well, fayshe, you have feen The author appears be- many firange things, and yet I will De venture to fay you never faw any thing Czar. like what you are going to fee. He then ordered a poor Ruffian, who _ had been brought on purpofe, toopen his cloaths. I trembled at the fight; he had an excrefcence beneath the navel, of about the length of a hand, and four inches in fubftance, from whence went out all the food he An extra- eat; and the poor wretch had been ordinary nine years in this condition. This<4é- difafter happened from the cut of a knife, which had {fo irritated the parts about the common pafiage, that there was no cure to be had. I frankly confeffed I had never feen any thing like it, but faid I knew a man who voided his food by his mouth, at which he feemed to be not lefs furprized. He then ordered this poor man’s excrefcence to be {queez- ed, that I might be the more fenfi- ble of the nature of his cafe, and every thing came out half digefted. The patient was about thirty five years of age. Having difcourfed with his Majefty about two hours, and been regaled with liquors, he left me, and Prince Alexander came up to me. He told me the Czar having heard I could paint, was — defirous I fhould do the pictures of the three young Princefles, the daughters of the Czar Ivan Alexo- WIS 1702. The TRAVELS of witz his brother, who had reigned Wy jointly with him ull he died, which happened upon the twenty ninth of anuary 1696, and that it was the chief reafon I had been fent for to court. I gladly accepted of the ho- nour, and went with this Lord to The author ~ . appears be-Wait upon the Emprefs, the mo- re the ne Rejoicings at wed- dings. ther of thefe young Ladies, ata houfe of pleafure belonging to his Majetty, called Ifmeilboff, molt agreeably fituated, about a league from Mofcow, that I might have a fight of them before I began my work. When I had approached the Emprefs, fhe afked if I could fpeak the Ruffian language; to which Prince dlexan- der an{wering in the negative, they talked together for fome tinge: This Princefs then filled outa little cup of brandy, which fhe prefented to the Prince, who drinking it off, deli- vered the cup to one of her maids of honour: She filled it out a fecond time, and the Emprefs prefented it to me herfelf: She alfo gave us a glafs of wine, as did alfo the three young Princeffes. After this a great glafs of beer was filled out, which the Emprefs again prefented to Prince Alexander, who, having taken a fip, returned it to the maid of honour: The fame ceremony was obferved with regard to my felf, and I juft touched it with my lips; for in this court it would be taken much amifs to empty the laft glafs of beer that is prefented. Ithen talked a while with Prince Alexander, who fpeaks pretty good Dutch, upon the fubject of pictures; and when we went out the Emprefs and the three young Princeffes gave us their right-hands to kifs, the higheft honour that can be received in thiscountry. Some days afterwards there were great nuptial doings at the palace of Prince Menztkof, for fome belonging to the Czar, who was there prefent with the Prince his uncle, and feveral Lords and Ladies of the’ court; nor were fome of the Englhi/h and Dutch Merchants and German Ladies unin- vited. The table, in form of an horfe-fhoe, was {pread in the great hall, and the Czar and the Ruffian Vor. I. Ladies on the other. Prince, Prince Alexander, and the Englife and Dutch merchants weré at around table in the middle of the hall, at which I had the honour of a feat. After a magnificent re- paft there was dancing after the Polifo manner; the mufic, which was very good, being on the left- hand, Prince Alexander went away that fame evening, in order to {pend fome days in the country, where he Upon the ele» > had fome bufinefs. venth Mr. Panwel Heins, the Envoy from. Denmark took a tour to his own country, defigning to return in the fpring, and to leave his wife behind him at Mojfcow. Upon the jifth of March I had the honour to dine with his Majefty at Probrofensko, the ufual abode of that Prince. After dinner he catried me to the Emprefé’s palace, to fee the pictures of the three young Princefles, which were begun, and he entertained her a good while upon the fubject of my tra- vels. Upon the eleventh he went with fome Lords of his court to vifit Mr. Brants, and there he faw whatI had painted at Archangel, and feemed to be much pleafed with them. Talking from one thing to another, this Prince, at laft, made mention of certain pieces of cannon, which were thought to have the arms of Genoa, which, as well as thofe of Venice, are a lion with one paw on a book, uponthem, He wanted to be fatisfied as to this, and refolved to take a view of them, appointing the palace of the Prince to be the place to meet at for that purpofe. His Majefty accordingly came at the time appointed, and Prince Alex- ander, in his name, made a prefent of a gold medal to every one there, who were for the moft part foreign merchants that he had an efteem for, Upon this medal his Majefty was reprefented with a crown of laurel on his head, with this title round him, PETER ALEXO- WITZ, GREAT CZAR OF ALL RUSSIA. On the reverfe I were Ye Lords were on one fide, and the 1702. The Czarian“VWI 1702, were two eagles, with the day of UyNi the month, the jit of February, - and the year 1702. Having been here entertained with great magnificence, they returned to - Probrofensko, which is reckoned to be no better than the abode of a captain, his Majefty not having as yet affumed an higher title. This . - palace is not above three miles from a the city, and not far from that of among the Rufhans. angel, HILE we were looking at thefe guns, they got every thing ready to go to a village be- longing to Prince Alexander. It is called Alexcejeskie, not far from Le- \ muenefskie, about twelve werfts from Mofcow, where this Nobleman has a 4 very fine country-houfe upon the ri- b ver Youfa; a charming place where q there are wonderful fifh-ponds abun- ~dantly reftored. But I thought no- thing here finer than the ftables, | large, and made of wood, as well a as the houfe, and containing above 7. fifty very fine horfes. We here * found fome German Ladies his Ma- jefty had ordered to be here, to ; provide fome agreeable entertain- : ments. We were ‘ten in all, our ea Refident, three Exgli/h, and the reft E . | Dutch, without reckoning fome Ru/~ ‘a fian Noblemen and Ladies, to the a. number of thirteen, including Prince | Acrecatle Alexander’s fitter. We were per- entertain FeGly welcome, and treated with ma fupper of flefh and fith. ‘They had {pread two tables in a great hall, the one a long one, at which fat the Czar, and feveral of his Nobles on one fide, and the Ladies on the ee eR AY E ES tof Prince Menzitof. It is alfo the 1702. arfenal of the regiment of his guards; ~YW~J we here faw the three guns menti- oned before, upon which there was a lion plain enough, though a good deal worn down. ‘They were very fhort, and like our mortars. But I do not comprehend how they fhould" have formerly fallen into the hands of the Rujfians. : | RBI LB LBI ABH ER BHABHA BIE BH LOI CBI LAID 9. :- CHAP. VIL Magnificent Entertainments given by his Majefty in the Coun- try. Particulars concerning verts himfelf upon the River Motka. His Majeftys Departure for Arch- the Empre/s. His Majefty di- Celebration of Eafter other; the other was a round table in the middle, where fat the Exgii/h, and moft of the Germans, or Dutch rather. After fupper they retired ta their apartments, the Ru/fians on one fide, and the Ladies on the other; only the ftrangers ftaid fome time longer together. The next day there was a feaft like the former, with mufic, confifting of violins, baffles, trumpets, hautboys, flutes, &c. Then they danced after the Polifb manner, the Czar, who was in a very good humour, incouraged every body to be merry; nor was there any forgetfulnefs about the wine. At night every one withdrew to begin again the next day, which was {pent like the former, in all manner of diverfions, no one being at all overcome with liquor, and then all returned to their feveral homes. . I then got leave’ to have the pic- tures of the young Princefles, which I had painted in large, brought home to my lodging, thar I might puc the finifhing handto them, the Czar having prefied me fo to do, becaufe he wanted to fend them fomewhere. I obeyed een Ne oT SME i fi Apa a mea CORNSYLUS LEA BREYN | ay 1702. Yobeyediwith all the hafte Icould, and Uv™~ drefs'd them after the German mode, in which they commonly appear in public; but the heads, which were - left to my choice, I dreffed in the antique ftile. Pidure of — Let us now take a view of the Se ” Emprefs, Paraskowya Feodorofna. é This Princefg is not above thirty years old, and is pretty bulky, tho’ being tall therewith, it does not much fpoil her. It may be even faid of her that fhe is handfome, of a very genteel behaviour, and moft engaging manners; and _ indeed, the Czar has a great value for her. The young Czarian Prince Alexey Petrowitz often vifits her, and the Princefies her daughters, the eldeft of which, Catharine Iwanoffna, is but twelve years old;. the fecond, Anne Iwanoffna, not above ten; and the youngett, Paraskowya Iwanoffna, but eight, all three of them likely children. ‘The fecond has fair hair, and has a fine complexion; the other two are agreeable brunettes: The youngeft is a very {prightly child, and all the three of mild and charming affability. It would be hard to fay how many civilities I had heaped upoh me in this court while I was at work upon thefe pictures.’ They never failed in the morning to pre- fent me with liquors and other re- frefhments, and often they detained me to dinner, and always ferved up as much flefh as fifh, which very much {furprized me, becaufe they were then in the midftof Lent. In the day-time they always took care to fupply me with wine and beer; and indeed I believe no court, ef pecially fuch a court as this, was ever fo kind to a private man; and I fhall retain a grateful remembrance of it as long as I live. Imboldened by all thefe favours, I prefumed to The author offer a book of my travels, which I oT ™ had got bound on purpofe, to his Ma- the Czar. jefty in the palace of Probrofensko, not doubting of a favourable accep- tance, in which I was not at all de- ceived. Diverfun Upon the twenty ninth he went in on therivera boat upon the rivet of Moska; he of Moska. went down againft tide, three ot 1701. four werfts beyond the bridge, paf-“V™9 fing by the caftle, and came up again with the tide, at a great rate, three or four werfts on this fide of the fame bridge, to which he afterwards returned, and where Prince “/exan- der waited for him, attended by fome Englh/b and Dutch merchants, whom he again entertained both with fifth and fleth, notwithftanding Lent and the Paffion-week, leaving every one to his liberty, but he and his train eat nothing but meat. The month of April began with 4 great fo extraordinary a thaw, that in a” very little time there was no ice ta be feen; and the river, upon this fudden alteration, {welled toa height it had never been known at in the memory of man. The mills upon the Youfa were much damaged, and the ponds over-flowed the low land behind the houfes, and laid it ‘tnder water, and the roads and ways were much in the fame condition, which is what often happens in fpring time, when the {nows begin to melt. ‘The Slabode of the Germans was in fach a pickle, that the horfe went up to the girth in mud and mire; which being reported to the Czar, he or- dered it to be cleanfed,’ that the dirt that might farther center in this part fhould be diverted, and turned off, Upon the fir, about fix in the ge vig: morning, a fire broke out at the /ence of she houfe of one of our cotintrymen in ton the Sl/abode; and the Czar was im- pens. mediately there to give orders, as he always is upon the like occafions. There is a watch every hour of the night, who never fail to ‘give the alarm upon all accidents of this na- ture. . That fame day they celebrated the refival of feaft of Eaffer, to the gréat joy of Eater. the Ruffians, as well becaufe the de- fired time was come when Chrift was torife, as becaufe it put’an end to Lent. You hear the bells all the night before, all the day itfelf, and the next day. They then begin to give Eaffer eggs, which continues Eaftereggs: for a fortnight, a cuftom as well a- mong, VEY a oe 32 April 9. CORNELIUS LE BRUYN. 1702. mong the great as the {mall, the old yas the young, who mutually make eachjother prefents of them; and the fhops are every where full of them coloured and boiled; the moft com- mon colour of them being a plum blue, though there are alfo fuch as are green and white, very neat; fome are very well painted, and worth two or three rix-dollars; and, in fhort, many of them have thefe words upon them, CHRISTOS WOS CHREST, Cbrift is rifen. Perfons of diftinétion have them at their houfes, and prefent them to fuch as come te fee them; at the fame time kiffing them upon the mouth, and faying, CHRISTOS W OS CHREST, to which the other anfwers, WOISTINO WOS CHREST, Yea, be is truly rifen. The middling fort of people give them to each other in the ftreets in the manner we have faid, and no body refufes them of what fex or condition foever. Servants alfo carry them into their mafters, who make them a prefent called Praesnik. They brought me thirteen or fourteen very neatly coloured by women ; and for- merly thefe prefents were made a very ferious bufinefs, but things have lately been much altered in this re- fpect as well as the reft. The Ruf jfrans of quality and foreign merchants have indeed prefented the congra- tulatory eggs to his Majefty now on the throne, and have received the fame from him, but thecuftom is over. . Upon the zznth the Czar recreated Recreation himfelf again upon the river Moska. upon the river Moska. The watermen in his Majefty’s thal- lop, and thofe in that of the Prin- cefs his fifter, were in white fhirts, after the Dutch fafhion, laced down before; and all the foreign merchants had orders, the night before, each of them to get ready two. Thefe boats had two {mall mafts, that they might fail if there was wind. They fell down the river from the country houfe of the General Velt-Marfhal BoriesPetrowitz Czeremetof, oppofite to his Majefty’s fine houfe, called Worobjowegoro, where he had the day before entertained his Majefty 4 and all his train, confifting of the 1702. Czarian Prince, the Princefs, hisw>~ru Majefty’s fifter, attended by three -or four Ruffian Ladies, a number of Lords and officers of his houfhold, ourRefident, fome foreign merchants, and about fifteen or fixteen German Ladies. All the fhallops appeared before the houfe of this Nobleman, being about forty in all, with each ten or twelve oars. The Czar be- ing embarked with all his company, they went down the river at a great rate beyond the bridge, and pro- ceeded to Kolomnensko, a country- houfe belonging to his Majefty, a- bout twenty werfts from Mo/cow by water, though, not above feven by land, where they got out about fe- ven o'clock, and met with a moft royal fupper. The next day they were entertained in the fame manner, and had mufic; and about three in the afternoon they came back to town, fome in coaches, fome in calafhes, and fome on_horfeback. The next day Mr. Brandts enter- tained his Majefty, attended by the Refident of Holland, and feveral o- thers, Engli/b and Dutch. They were fo merry that the Czar ftaid till ele- ven at night, and the reft till two in the morning. Upon the zneteenth I had orders to carry the young Princeffes pictures to the Emprefs, that fhe might fee them now they were finifhed. I went with Prince Alexander’s brother- in-law, but this Princefs was fo much out of order that fhe was even in bed. However I placed the pitures fo that fhe might fee them; fhe feemed to like them, thanked, and pre- fented me with a purfe of gold, which fhe delivered to me with her own hand, and did me the honour to give me tokifs. She then afked me if I fhould ftay long enough in the coun- try to paint them over again; to which having returned an an{wer, one of the young Princefles gave us brandy in a little gilt cup, then a glafs of wine, and fo we took our leave. From thence I carried the pictures to the palace of Prince Alex- ander, where I packed them up, fo as 1702. CORNELIUS. LE BRU YN; as to be fittofend away. The fame v™ night the Czar, attended by Prince They clean the ways. A flood. Alexander, the Patriarch Mehzle Moyfewitz Solof, keeper of the great feal, the firft Minifter of ftate, Count Fedder Alexewitz Gollowin, the Sieur Gabriel Gollofkiem, the Knez Gregory Gregoiewitz Rofodanofskie , Boyar, the Knez Tuerje Tuerjewitz Froetbetskoy, and the Stolmck, who waits on his Majefty attable, attend- ed by thefe he fet out for Arch- angel, Mean time they prepared to clean the ways in the S/abode, which they began to do upon the twenty fixth; firft they threw the dirt up along the fides of the houfes, that fo it might be carried off, having made choice of two Germans to dire& the work; and they acquicted themfelves fo well of their charge, that at the end of the week the ftreets and ways were fo mended, that people began to walk up and down a little. Upon the zhird of May we had ad- vice from Archangel, that the thaw had {welled the river there to a moft extraordinary degree, and that it had done much mifchief; that moft of the houfes near the fort of the new Dwinko had been over-flowed; that the timber and work in his Majefty’s dock-yard had been carried off by it; that a fhip upon the ftocks had been turned topfy-turvy by it; that cer- tain fhips at anchor before the town had been driven againft the bridge of the palace of the merchants: In fhort that the water had even moun- ted up to fome of the gardens in the city. The next day they began to re- move the dirt in the Slabode, every body having leave to do it at his Own expence, and to carry it into his garden to heighten, or to dif- pofe of it elfewhere, as he fhould think moft neceflary and convenient. And the more ftill to forward this work the-German merchants met at the hall of the Lords, a fine houfe, well feated ina fine garden, where they chofe two other furveyors whom they added to the two former; this Vou 4. 4 4 I ee ee” CG a) ee 33 eletion was by moft voices, each 17032. writing down the name of the per-“V™) fon he was for upon a little bit of paper. ‘To thefe, they added eight others by way of affiftants, and invefted them with a fufficient au= thority. The nth, being the feftival of Se. Nicholas, we had letters from Hol: land, dated the 28th of the month before, with the doleful News of the Death of his Britannic Majefty, Wil- ham the III. of glorious memory, after a ficknefs of but four days: This caufed a great confternation among the ftrangers, but chiefly a- mong our countrymen, who beft knew the great worth of that Prince, for whom they put themfelves into mourning for fix weeks. Upon the zzneteenth, we had advice of a great inundation that had hap- pened in Holland, that it had drown- ed feveral villages, and been the death of a number of people. It was ad- ded the Allies had carried Key/er- [waert. Upon the fwenty-firft, they cele- Feat in | brated the feftival of Walla Diemer- ah hati Bogarodieffa, a town were they. ° SKA 1g effi ? Y Mary. pretend the Virgin Mary to have formerly appeared, and which they keep in remembrance in one of the churches of this city, conftantly up- on the Thurfday before Pentecoft, which they call Seemie. Some of the clergy go that day early in the morning, toa pit or ditch, and caft into it thofe that have been mur- dered, and thofe that have fuffered execution, for crimes. Thefe pits, of which there are three or four about Mojcow, are filled up every year, and new ones are dug, which was done the night before. That day alfo they buried the Emprefs’s mother, who died the day before, for they never keep the dead long above ground, which, is what we fhall have occafion to dilate on hereafter. This funeral was without any ceremony. The fame day, in the morning, a fire broke out ac © Mofcow, and could not be put out before 10 of the clock, Upon the K er. Lhe 34 The 1702. third of Sune the like happened at ~V~ a village not far off, and upon the fourteenth, for the third time at Mo/- TR AV EOL § cow. About the fame time certain 1702. Merchants fet out for Archangel. of | NWWASU NZIS NON ONO SONS NOS SONOSO SIO NONI NIN INO NOSSO SSSI SHINO NON O SSDNA SONS SSR EONS SSE OS SS ASSSES SSS SSS SESE ESSE S i | | Crrn. Peeew itt: | i Produ€tions of the Earth, Fruits, Country-Houfes, Fifb- | Ponds, and other things the Ruflians delight im. Ruflian Hermits in Prifom Went fometimes to take the frefh air in the country with my friends; and one day, in “uly, as I was in the woods I found certain i) __- Greed gevfe- Goofe-berties, they call Coftenit/a, | “which have a very pleafant acid. The better fort of people eat them with honey or fugar as we do ftraw- berries, and make a fort of fherbet with them, which isa refrefhing li- quor for fick folks. ‘The woods about Mofcow are full of this fruit, which grows in the fhade of the trees throughout all Rufia. The word Coftenit/a fignifies a ftoney goofe-ber- ry, and to fay the truth a ftone it has. Every ftalk produces three or four others fmaller, by which hang the goofe-berries in clufters of twen- ty together, as may be feen in the next Plate letter A. Their leaves are green winter and fummer, and CORNELIUS UE Baru Y Bi 35 1702. they are ripe in Yu/y. Thereis alfo the carrot, parfnip, and beet-root, 1702. vw another fort of them, called Bru/nit. of which they have now great plen-~“VW fa \arger than the former, and grow fingle like thofe goofe-berries in our Country, which grow 20 or 30 in a clutter. Thefe do not grow above a fpan from the ground, and others about half as high again. Great quantities of them are every year carried to Mofcow, where both ftrangers and Ruffans lay in a ftore of them. Thefe laft put them into tubs or cafks of water, and there leave them all the fummer; they then draw it off and drink it, and very refrefhing and pleafant it 1s, efpecially if you {weeten it with fugar or honey, and they are alfo eaten by way of refrefhment. The Ger- mans {queeze the juice out of them, which they boil with honey and fu- gar to a certain confiftence, and ufe it with their roaft-meat, which it relifhes moft admirably. They keep it alfo in alittle cafk, and mix it up with the juice of other goofe-berries, a liquor wherewith they regale their friends, and is very grateful to the palate. The leaf of thefe is like that of the rofe, as you may fee in letter B, and is an ever green. Productions Ruffia naturally produces roots and of theearth. greens in abundance. They have cabbages they call .Kopoffe, which they flore up, and which the poor eat twice a day; cucumbers alfo, called Ougertfe, which they eat like apples and pears, and are {tored up for all the year round, even by the moft confiderable people. This Country in like manner, produces abundance of garlic, which they are very fond of, as may be fmele at a diftance. They call it Sza/nok. Horfe-radith called Green, is there very common, and they make good fauces of ir, both for fifth and flefh. Turneps they have of feveral forts, as alfo red cabbages, and colly-flowers which f{trangers have brought among them for fome time paft. You have af- paragus there alfo and artichokes, but nobody eats them but firangers. And the fame it is with fome things that grow under ground: We taught them the culture of ty, as alfo of falleting and cellery, to them before unknown, but now admired by them. The places a- bout Mo/cow produce plenty of ftraw- berries, efpecially of the {mall fort; the larger they eat in the hand. They have rafberries alfo, and plen- ty of a large fort of melon; they are very large, but too watery, not very unlike our cucumbers, and produce no great quantity of feed. As for fruit-trees, they have ma- pyvis trees, ny {mall-nuts, and a few wall-nuts. Their apples are good, and pleafant to look at, as well the {weet as the four: I have had fome of them fo tranfparent you might fee the Ker- nels inthem. It is otherwife with the pears, which are more {carce, and not fo good; befides they are fmall: The fame indifference may be ex- prefled of their plumbs and cherries, excepting thofe in the gardens be- longing to the Germans; they are gapdens of very neat, full of good goofe-ber- the country. ries, and many kinds of flowers; but the gardens of the Ru/fans are wild, artlefs, and void of ornament. Foun- tains and jetteaus are there unknown, though they have water in abundance, and it were eafy to have them, and ata very fmallexpence. They begin however, to change in this refpect, as well as in that of their buildings, fince the Czar has been in our pro- vinces. The Knez Daniel Gregoritz Serkaskie has a garden in the Dutch tafte, near his village, called Szezjove, about 13 werfts from Mo/cow ; it is pretty large, and neat enough; tho’ we mutt not forget he had a gardener from Holland; and indeed it is the fineft garden in all the country. Up- on the whole there are but few cu- riofities in Mujcovy. The great beau- Ponds full ty of their country-houfes, is in their % filh-ponds, which are admirable. You have often two or three of them about a houfe, fpacious and full of fifh, which they are very fond of ; and when any of their friends come to fee them, the firft thing they do, is to divert them with nets thrown into the water, and fometimes at a 2 caft | | | 1 | 7 | 1 ] 4 | a i i i | ia UGReTRAVELS of 1702, caft they fhall catch as much fith vw as would fill 20%or 30 difhes, and fometimes more. I fhall never forget a party of pleafure I had with fome Dutch La- dies, with whom I went to pay a vi- fit to Mr. Strefenof, a rich man, who lived at the village of Fackeloof, 15 werfts from Mofcow, where he re- ceived us very courteoufly. This gentleman had an handfome wife, a mighty good natured fort of a wo- man, who did all fhe could to make us merry. The houfe was well builc, full of fine apartments, and what is remarkable, it had a kitch- en after the Dutch manner, a very neat one, where our Ladies drefled fome difhes of fifth after our manner, though we had a good provifion of cold meat, befide a fcore of difhes of fifh in the Rufian way, with good fauces. After dinner they carried us into a room where hung feveral ropes by the beams. Thefe were to {wing in, the ufual paftime of the country ; and accordingly the Lady of the houfe took her turn at it, being fwung by two waiting maids, who were pretty enough; while fhe was {winging fhe took a child in her lap, and began to fing with her maids very agreeably, and in a moft oblig- ing manner; begging we would ex- cufe her, afluring us fhe would have fent for mufic, had fhe had time e- nough, When we had thanked her for her favours, fhe carried us to the pond, and ordered them to get us fome fifh to carry frefh home with us. We took leave of our kind entertainers, and got into our coach prodigioufly well pleafed with them. On one fide of this village I per- ceived a tree of extraordinary fize, with wide fpreading branches, fine- ly proportioned with a trunk of three fathom and a half in circumference; it was a white poplar which the Ru/- fians call Afina, Moft of the ftrangers have gardens behind their houfes, or in the coun- try, where they carefully cultivate feveral forts of fruits and flowers, which they fend for from home. The beds in the gardens are bor- dered mids plank inftead of box, and 1702. as the country in itfelf is defe@tive ~V~ as to flowers, thofe in the woods being very indifferent, we cannot pleafe the Ruffans better than by giving them nofe-gays when they come to fee our gardens. There are however fome curious people, among the better fort, who have the like, and endeavour to cultivate flowers. Their manners are remarkable Mezzers of the Rufli- ans. enough: When they pay a vifit, and go into a room they do not fay a word, but look about for the pic- ture of fome faint, wherewith their rooms are always hung; they make three low bows toit, and making feve- ral figns of the crofs they fay Go/podz Pomilus “ Lord have mercy upon “me;” or Mier Efdom Zjeiewoe/o- non ‘* Peace be to this houfe, and “to thofe that dwell therein;” again making figns of the Crofs: Then they falute the people of the houfe, and fpeak to them. This is a cuftom they obferve even when they go to fee ftrangers, addref- fing themfelves to the firft pi€ure they fee, for fear they fhould noe pay the firft honours to God, as they ought. Their greateft diverfion is hawking, and courfing with grey- hounds; and they are under good re- gulations as to this matter, the num- ber of dogs every one may keep be- ing fixed according to his rank; and befides thefe their private diverfions are but few. Their mufical inftru- ments for the moft part, are the harp, the kettle-drum, the bag-pipe, and the hunting-horn. They take great delight in being with mad peo- ple, or fuch as are deformed, or deep in liquor, when they happen to be fo to excefs. When they en- tertain their friends, they fit down to table at ten in the morning, and part at one in the afternoon to go home to fleep, and this they do winter and fummer. Their manner of writing is very odd; they take Ey man- ner OF Wri- ting. the paper in their left hand, and put it upon their knees and write in that pofture; there are however fome of them who begin to write like us, 3 and 1702. The T Row and particularly in their offices, V™ Their manner of fewing is alfo dif- yRE Si 37 the arms, whenever he rofe Up, as 1702, he did when we came tohim. They -Ww mee am ferent from ours; they put the thim- were to have continued in this pri- ing. ble upon the firft finger, and with fon till his Czarian Majefty thould that and the thumb, they pull the return; they were together, they thread to and fro, direétly oppofite had no irons on, and fat in an open to our manner, They ufe their place upon fome mats in a corner, feet alfo, which are commonly bare, and at fome diftance from the reit. upon this occafion, and will hold The prifoners in the fame place were their work between their toes,as well moft of them chained by the foot, as we can between our knees, or but with fo fhort a range they could by pinning it faft. But I muft own _ hardly ftir, and had each of them a I have feen them do otherwife. keeper within, befides thofe without, ee In the beginning of ‘fuly, I went to prevent their efcaping. This pri- with a friend to Probrofensko, to fee three hermits, who had been pri- foners there for four or five days. They had lived fomewhere about Afoph, upon the banks of a fmall river that falls into the Danube. I was furprized at the fight of them; the oldeft was about feventy, and fon was made of good lofty timbers, {mall, {quare, and open at top; tho’ there were fome covered places in it. I had a great mind to take a fecond view of thefe hermits, but was told they were removed to a neighbouring houfe, and that they were to ftay till farther orders. Towards the end of this month /iaory «: fifty. The firft had lived forty years advice came of another victory over i the Swedes. The Emprefs fent for” in that place, in the hollow of a rock, where he had been once taken moe a little afterwards to paint the by the Tartars and fold to the Turks; young Princeffes a fecond time in youngPrin- but making his efcape in a little greatand habitedas before. I would 2 the other two feemed to be about cond time. while afterwards, he returned to his hermitage, where he had paffed his days ever fince. They faid he was accufed of ftraying from the Ruf fran faith; but he denied the charge, defiring he might be examined, and declaring he was ready to fuffer the greateft torments for the glory of Fefus Chrift, though he could nei- ther write nor read. They had no- thing on but a dark coarfe gown; their hair hung half way down their backs, was never combed, and fo covered their faces, there was no fee- ing them without putting the hair afide; in fhort they looked like very favages. Upon the breaft they had great ironcrofs, that weighed four pounds at leaft; it hung by two bands of the fame tmetal, which went over their fhoulders, fell down behind the back, and were hooked to ano- ther of the fame metal, which fer- ved for a girdle and was joined be- fore beneath the crofs upon the breaft. The two others exprefied fo great a veneration for the old man, that they fupported him under Vor. I fain have avoided the tafk, and hum- bly befought fhe would excufe me, pretending I was under a neceffity to purfue my travels; but perceiv- ing fhe was a little out of humour at it, I, for many reafons, refolved to fatisfy her, and began the work without lofs of time. Upon the fifth of Sfune the mer- chants, that were left at Mofcow, went from thence to 4rchangel. We attended them, as the cuftom is, ten werfts out of the town, to a village upon the You/a, where there were tents {pread under them to pafs fome time with feveral Ladies: at length drinking to their good journey we returned to the city as we came. Some days afterwards, as 1 was x, xy, , walking in the garden behind our crane and houfe, with a gun in my hand, as" my cuftom often was, to kill {nipes and ducks upon the pond or river Youfa, I perceived a crane in the air over my head: [loaded my piece with a ball, the common bird fhot not being enough to kill fo large a bird, and had the good luck to bring L | him rH. RN Uc PALE LS LER eee TAY MT ge ee eae Ne 2 4 “7 ST wre) Vane be : Neti, : : Bi hick’ ‘hate e338 Bis 1702. hin down into the pond. This was Ww remarkable enough, there being but few or none of thefe birds in Ye TRAVELS of | have them in the country for their 1702. pleafure, but they fend for them from “VW elfewhere. {had him roafted, but 5 this part, though there are thofe who ¢° CHAP. he tafted of the fen. EO ES TX. Defcription of Mofcow. Mumber of the Churches and Mo ~ nafteries of this City, with many other Particulars. Le is now high time to fpeak a little more particularly concern- ing the ftates of his Czarian Majefty, who, with hisown mouth, gave me full leave to write what I fhould think proper on this fubje@, fol confined myfelf within the limits of truth. ‘I thall begin with the city of Mo/- cow, which I took a view of from the top of one of this Prince’s pa- laces, called Worobjowa, a wood- en building of great extent, and two ftories high. On the ground- floor it contains 124 rooms, and, I dare fay, there may be as many a- bove, and is furrounded with a wood- en wall. Itftands upon an eminence oppofite to the nunnery of Dewzt/e, on the other fide of the river Moska, three werfts from Mofcow to the weftward. I had fome davs be- fore been entertained there, together with fome others, and fome Ladies, by Prince Alexander’s brother-in-law. The Czar had pitch’d upon this place as the.moft proper for my defign, and indeed fo it was; but the Prin- cefs, his Majefty’s fitter, having taken it for the fummer, I begg’d this Gen- tleman, the Prince’s brother-in-law, to favour me fo far as to go with ‘me, to communicate his Majefty’s | order to her. She anfwered, I might come whenI would, but defired I would bring but one perfon with me. I went feveral days together, and performed my tafk, with water- colours upon paper, from one of the windows of the palace, as may be obferved in N°. 12, From hence 3 you had a profpe&t of every thing in the town and about it, and every particular is carefully diftin- guifhed by numeral figures as fol- lows: (1) The new monaftery of Dewits, or of the maids; (2) The quarters of a regiment of foot; (3) Worftruki, or the porter’s lodge; (4) A place called Su/chowa; (5) The cloifter called Nowznskoy Monafter ; (6) Sawinskoy Monaflir, fo called from St, Sawin; (7) The church of Nicolay-na Rhipach, dedicated to St. Nicolas, and {fo called for that rea- fon; (8) The church of Blagow/i/- chena, or the annunciation of the Virgin Mary; (9) Dewits Monaftir Strathnot, or convent of the maid of fuffering ; (10) Ultretenskota Bach- na, or the tower of the gate of U/- tretens; (11) Potrof[chey Monaftir,’ or convent of St. Peter; (12) The palace or caftle; (13) Trottska Bafch- ‘na, the name of the tower of the church without the palace; (14) The church of Sadoor, that is the principal church in the city, or where there are moft reliques; (15) Iwan Weliek, or the high tower of the caftle; (16) Izerkof Philatowa, or the fine church built by Philatowa; (17) The church called Vafoafenja Borofchak; (18) Kodafchewa, or the place of his Majefty’s weavers in linen cloth, on one fide of the church ; (19) The church of St. Nicholas;(20) Gym Borock, or the church of Elias; (21) Tugauni, a church fo called from the place it is buile in; (22) Anduanof Monaftir, or the monattery dediga- ted to Andromius; (23) The fine ib vent weiAEC yt “i 4 H/F f i STP fg Miia We We ae Veg SS Sy : - = SS Ss s SS SN —S ——————S HG NY veg) Ny a My SS SS SS SS SS SAN Bo oX % agers Lit ve SSS Ws: = SASSER SESS Sas \ an Se 3S Re POS ee SS SS SS SS naa | Hit AUteeatveaT Wea) yes ena Ste Slee or ae GCORNEITCIUSACE BRUY® ryo2, vent called Spas-Novoy, or of the lWNJ new Savior; (24) The palace of the ‘Authors mifinform- ed asto this. City. cloifter of. Krutifch; (25) Donsko Monaftir, or the convent of the Don- febe, mother of God: (26) Spa/a- Novo; Monaftir, or the new cloitter dedicated to our Savior; (27) The convent of Andrew; (28) The cloi- fter of Daniel, called Danilofskc Mo- naftir; (29) The river of Moska; (30) Worcbjowa Gora, or the hill of Sparrows. Some authors will have it that Mofcow was formerly as big again as it is now; but upon due enquiry I find it is now greater than ever it was, and that it never fo. abounded with ftone buildings as it does at prefent, the number of which increafes every day. This city is in 55 degrees 30 minutes of northern latitude, and is indifferently called Mofcow, Mosko, Muskow and Mofcua. It ftands in the fouthern parts, and nearly in the center of Rufia, or of Mufcovy, up- CHATEAU pr MOSKOW,. _ on the little river of Moska, whofe 1702, name it borrows. Ic is three good —YW\4 leagues in circumference, without the earth-wall, and has twelve gates: (1) That they call Potroffe Warate, The bignel or the gate of Potroffe, a whole ftreetY * of the fame name, and ftretches a- y, sates; | way to the Red-wall or Kitai. (2) The gate of Me/uzte, which has a ftreet of the fame name; thefe two gates which are of {tone belong to the ftone-wall. ‘The (3) is called the U/- tretenfe’ Bralon, and is properly no more than a way leading to the gate of the city of that name, for there is no gate on that fide, in the earth-wall, there is only an opening. The (4) Petroffe, where there is a ftreet the fame which leads to the city. The (5) Iwerkske, where there is a ftreet the fame. The (6) Mekzt/e, with a {treet the fame. The (7) Arbatfe. The (8) Prefzikbwetfche, formerly called ’¢ Zertel/e, with a ftreet alfo. The (9) Drefwet/che, fituated the \ \ fame. Sg 40 CORNELIUS LE BRUYN. y702. fame. The (10) Kaknetske, upon the Uv~ river of Neghene. The(11) the fame. The (12) Zaganfe or Tanfe, in the fame manner. Having taken this round, I the next day went about the wall of the city itfelf, called Beloy Gorod, and found it was but an hour and half in circumference. Between each of The wall. the gates of the city, juft now named, there are two towers upon the walls, and between fome three. They are fquare, but by no means fit for cannon, and 409 paces from one another. There are but two gates, between which there are none, where his Majefty has madea garden; fo that there is no going quite round by the fide of the wall. Mofcow is divided into four parts, the firft of which is the caftle or palace qhe palace. called Viremfgorod, upon the river Moska, which flows to the weft- ward, and falls into the Ocean, near the city of Colomna, thirty fix leagues from Mo/cow, and the Oeca falls in- to the Wolga, near Nifi-Novogorod, a hundred leagues from Mo/cow. This caftle is furrounded with a high ftone wall, flanked with {e- veral towers, and the plate above is the fine view of it from the fide of the river near the great bridge. - Ichas four gates, the Spakae, where is the dyal, the Nikolske, Demkamen- non-Morlu, the Trifwalske, and the Taynuskt, and is f{urrounded by a dry ditch down to the river. As there is no cannon in this caftle, they fire in the arfenal upon the rejoic- ing days, and plant fome in the ba- zat or great market-place before the 4702, court. This caftle, where the Czar _7\c-~ never refides, is buile with blocks June 3- of ftone, and for the moft part pretty dark; but the Patriarch has. his abode there, and the courts of juftice, called her Prikaes, are held there. The chief Lords of the court had alfo fome houfes there, which his Majefty has laid hands on for himfelf, excepting one. In the midft of the great court, which is furrounded with buildings, you fee a tower called Iwan Weltke, or great ‘fobx, where is the great bell which fell in the fire of 1701, and 1702. fplit; they pretend it weighs 266666 v4 pounds, of Dutch weight, or 8000°°"?""~ poel, each poel 33 pounds of our country; it was founded in the reign of the great Duke Gudenon. You go up by 108 fteps to the place where it is; thefe fteps are between two towers, and you ftill fee it in the place where it fell; it is of an enormous fize, has Ruffian charac- ters on the borders of it, and three heads on one fide, in bafs relief. You go up 31 fteps higher, and severai there you have eight other bells 4. in the crofs pieces of the windows of this tower, and nine others 30 fteps above thefe, hung in the fame manner, fome bigger than the other, and fome two and two, which you get at by wooden ladders, the one of twenty fteps, the other of ten. From the top of this tower you fee the city with all poffible advantage, and the great number of ftone churches it is full of; the domes and fteeples of fome of which being gilt, have a fine effect when the fun fhines out; ‘but there is nothing fo magnificent as the church of Sa-¢,,/5 i boor. Befides this, there are many Saboor. fine buildings of {tone in this city ; where they are now at work upon a new arfenal, a great wooden build- yew ap. ing, before the gate of St. Nicolas, xa!. for the prefenting of theatrical pieces. They have even this year fent for comedians from Dantzick, Who Comedians. played fome pieces at the hotel of the deceafed General /e Fort this © winter; and the Rufians have al- Imitatedby ready begun to imitate them, hav- “% Rufi- ing made a little attempt that way, no great matter, in truth, as you may imagine; but this is certain of them, they do not want a genius ; befides that they are fond of imita- tion, let it be good or evil; and when they are made fenfible of any fine manners very different from theirs, they frankly confefs them- felves out done, though, fay they, our way is good, Having thus fpoken of this firft part of the town, I go on to the fecond, which nearly covers a fourth | 2 pare Their geri “se Thee TRAVELS. of es 1702. part of the caftle next to the city. “VN It is called the Kut Kietay Gorod, eacand is in about the midét of the city in general, and furrounded with a high wall of ftone, called Kra/- The red najaftenna, or the red wall, becaufe wall. it really was of that colour former- ly, having been whitened in the reign of the Princefs Sophia Alexe/na, Great and her younger brothers. ‘The Church. church of St. Iroyt/a, or the Holy Trinity, built by an Italian archi- te&, and the chief in the city; is within this wall, oppofite to the Marke. caftle. Here alfo is the great mar= ket which daily {warms with people, the principal houfes, the merchants Ware Warehoufes, and the fineft fhops, in Mes», Particular ftreets, according to the goods they dealin. The {ame there are, in covered places, for thofe who fell cloths, ftuffs, gold-works, filks, furs, and the like. The fo- reign merchants have alfo their ware- houfes there, and go there every day upon the bufinefs of their trade. The artificers and pedlars, or {mall chapmen, have, like the reft, ftreets peculiar to themfelves. She phirg LE third pare or divifion of the divifon of town is called Beloy Gorod, or the the Toun. white wall. This and the Kéetay Gorod entirely inclofe the caftle to the river of Moska, and this alfo has The littl its wall. The fmall river of Ne- cel glina goes through it, and has on eglina. the one fide the arfenal, and on the other the great Kadbak, or houfe where brandy is fold. Fourth part "The fourth part or divifion contain- of the City. od within the earth-wall, is called She- rodum, or made in a hurry, this wall having been raifed in a very {hort time, and efpecially towardsthe riversMoska and Neglina, to keep out the Tartars in the reign of the Czar Fedor Iwa- nowitz in 1584, This Prince was the fon of the Czar Ivan Wefielewitz, the firft that affumed the title of Czar after he had fubdued to his empire the kingdoms of Kafernof, Ca/an, Fir Czar“ftracan and Siberia. The word of Mufco-Czar, which is anative of the Sc/a- wy vonic, fignifies a King and not an Emperor, as fome authors would have it; the Sc/avonians writing the Vor, I. word Kerfer or Emperor, -Zefér or 1709, Kezar, and the word Koning or King, 2 Karotie. "The Germans are likewife miftaken when they imagine the word Czariet/é fignifiesKeiferin orEmprefs; it fignifies no more than Queén. Mott: of the flabodes ‘or’ habita- tions of the Szre/fes, or military men, are in this part, though they-were before. wont to be: within the circuit of the red and white walls; but the Czar has thought fit to diflodge them thence on: account of ‘their infolence and frequent mutinies. bso Now with regard to buildings, Houfes atid nothing furprized: me. more, » than Roms fold the houfes and rooms they. fell here“ “”*** at market. ‘Thefe-houfes or rooms are framed of timbers or trees, which you may take to pieces and»carry to where: you pleafe, and: fer them up again prefently... They fell this fort of building to the value’ of one or 200 rubles, each: ruble worth five Dutch florins, and the tooms in pro= portion. madaowa : oidia Beyond the .earth-wall you {ee certain fuburbs, villages and monafs teries,’ which are all \round: about the: town, fome of them pretty clofé and full of people, :and fome of them are even clofe to the wall. The flabode of the Germansis not above a mile and half off, and there are many other villages to be feen beyond ic. The churches and monatteries of G-eatnum- the city of Msfcow, the cattle, the Hee other divifions of the city, and near 7,7 ifna/ the earth-wall on the:outfide are ‘fo teries. many in number that they reckon no lefs than 679 of them, including chapels. The ftructure of thefe ssucure churches is round like an apple, a Male as fome pretend to imitate the vault of Heaven, but to help the chaunt of the Priefts. Some have imagined the Ruffians attributed a certain vir- - tue to: bells, which was fome how or other agreeable'to God ; but they are equally miftaken; they only con- - fecrate them, and ring them upon holydays before divine fervice. | The monafteries at: Mofcow and ponap,.' aboutit, have different names; thereries. are two of them in the caftle, the firft of men, called Zudof Monaftir, M are SD Ry ae i is rl 42 Th TRAVELS of 1702. or the monaftery of miracles, and fediuon. All thefe prikaes are built 1702. “yw here they intomb the Czarina’s and in ftone, and are full of writers or —VW™ r Bi - a fk. 43 if aa the Princeffes; the Czars themfelves lie in another place to be mentioned hereafter. ‘The other of thefe mo- nafteries in the caftle is for women, and called Wo/nefenskot, or of the afcenfion of Jefus Chrift. There are fome very rich ones too without the ftone wall of the city, as Spaskor Monaftir, or that of the Saviour of the world: Szmonofsko:, dedicated to a Saint called Andronius: Douskot, facred to the mother of Chrift, of whom they tell of miracles perform- ed on the Don or Tanais: Danilof, or that of Daniel: Dewitfe, or the great monaftery of maids: Nooimskoz, Slatouftenskoi, or that of Chryfoftom : Twanofskoi, or that of St. Fobu: Rof- heftrumskoi, ot that of the Incarnatt- on: Warfonofskoi, to a certain Saint of that name; Safzatoi, or that of the Reception: Moifefskoj, or that of Mofes: Strafnoi, or the ter- rible: Sawifénskoi, fo called from the place where it ftands: Streten- skoi, or that of the meeting: M- holaefskoi, or that of St. Nicolas, with two others of the fame name, making in all twenty two monatte- ries. The ftreets of the city are al- ~ moft all of them laid with timbers, or wooden bridges, and are not paffa- ble in fummer when it rains, for the mud and dirt there always is upon fuch occafions. ‘The number of thofe who keep fhop in this city, is fo very great, that they muft take up with a {mall place to do their bufinefs in, which they fhut up when they come home at night, though there are fome pretty large ftreets too: There are alfo feveral Prickaes, courts or offices, the chief of which is that of Poffolje, for fo- reign affairs: the Ro/red, where they keep the regifter of the Rujiian No- bility, Governors and other Minif- ters; the Dworets where they keep the accounts of the Czar’s houfhold; the Pofnew, or regifter-office for all the lands in Rufia; and in fhort, that of the regifter of the Stre/jes or foldiery, whofe number has in- confiderably decreafed fince the laft clerks, in feveral apartments that look more like prifons than any thing elfe; and indeed they are not feldom converted to that ufe; for there they keep criminals chained in feparate places, and even debtors, who walk about there with irons at their heels. The chief clerks have rooms or offices apart, and in fome of thefe prikaes they fit at a long table co- vered witha red cloth like the hang- ings of rooms. ‘The regifters of the offices of thofe who had the charge of foreign affairs, is kept in that of Mofens. Thofe of the lands of the kingdoms of Ca/an and Afira- can, and the provinces thereunto annexed, in that they call Ka/aus d'Woores. A new office has been erected for the admiralty called: Ru/- chewne, where they keep a regifter of the arms. The apothecary is in Apothecary. the fame place, as well as the re- gifter of the names of the gold{miths in his Majefty’s fervice, and who receive their pay there. The regif- ters of the beft part of the revenues of the ftate are in the Bol/chaia Kaefna. ‘The nobility, andthe com- miffioners or chief clerks, have their trials in thofe of Svednoz Wolodiner- skot, and Sudnot Moskofskoi. The duties of the feals are paid into that of Petfutnoi, and are there regifter’d. © All the religious houfes are fubject to the prikaes of the monatteries, and fpiritual caufes are adjudged in that of the patriarch, (v7z.) all cafes of marriage, inheritances, arbitra- tions, difputes in families, adulteries and the like. That of SFamskoz is the office for regiftring of the car- men or drivers, imployed every year in his Majefty’s fervice. When I was at Mofcow, thefe eighteen prikaes were all keptin thecaftle, but with- out there were alfo feveral others, as that of Pu/chkarifcb for the re- giftring of canon; the Szdverfcb for the affair of Siberia; the Rosbozna, where they try for murders and other crimes. The head of thefe prikaes is generally one of the chief favorites, and one of the firft officers of ftate, : whom GORNELTOGS EE BRUY™ 1702. whom the Czar invefts with this dig- wW™ nity by favour, or in reward for Officers of frate. Order of S#. An- drew. The Czar an abfolute Monarch. Punifb- ments » fervices. Ic is a ftep alfo towards the very higheft employs, which are thofe of Boyard, or Counfellors of ftate, who cannot more aptly be compared than with the Grandees of Spain, and the Peers of France; thofe of Okolnit/ches, who are thofe that wait on the Czar when he goes out; of “the Doemnie Dworens, or noble Coun- fellors; of the Doemnie Diack, or Se- cretaries of the Council; of the S¢o- Iniks, or Officers of his Majefty’s table ; of the Worenes, or Officers of the court; and of the Scbi/f, an office fome- what inferior. The firft of the No- bility, and thofe who have the ho- nour to be related to the Czarina, are raifed to be Spalnicks, or Gen- tlemen of the bedchamber: After thefe follow the ftewards, the carvers, the cup-bearers, and fo on. His Majefty, fince his return from the Low-Countries, has created an order of Knighthood under the patronage of St. Andrew the Apoftle, where- with he has already honoured five Gentlemen. The Count Fewdor 4- lexewitz Gollowin, Boyard, firft Mi- nifter of State, and high Admiral; Hetman, the great General of the Coffacs; Mr. Printz, Embaffador ex- traordinary from theKing of Pru/- fia; the General Velt-marthal Boris, and Petrowitz Czeremetof; to thefe he made a prefent of the crofs of St. Andrew, with the image of that Saint, fet in diamonds. To the grandeur of this court we may add, ‘that the Prince isa Monarch abfo- lute over all his fubje@ts, that his will is the law, that he may difpofe of the lives and poffeffions of all his people from the loweft to the high- eft; in fhort, that his power extends itfelf alfo to things facred, and that he may model the divine fervice, juft as the fancy takes him, which is what other crown’d heads forbear to meddle with, for fear of provoking theclergy. Having thus {poken of the rewards beftowed upon merit, and thofe who acquit themfelves handfomely of their duty, either in peace or in war, and have the adminiftration of public affairs, we will now take r7o2. fome notice of the punifhments in- “WW flicted on crimes. The moft fevere and dreadful is that of the flames ; Burning. to which purpofe they erect a little {quare wooden houfe, which they load with ftraw within and without; in this the criminal is fhut up when his fentence is pronounced, they then apply the fire, and the unhappy party is prefently ftifled and reduced to afhes. They alfo bury alive up to the thoul- ders, as has already been noted. Now all thefe executions are per- formed with fuch filence, that when they happen at one end of the town, the other knows nothing of the mat- ter. As for thofe who are judged to be not quite worthy of death, they punifh them with the knoet, a great leather thong or whip with which they ftrike fo furioufly upon the bare back, as fometimes to put an end to life. Their way of giving this punifhment is pretty odd; for the executioner pitching upon the man who feems to be the ftrongeft and moft robuft of the ftanders-by, mounts the criminal upon his back, Whipping. with his arms over the man’s fhoul- ders, and meeting upon his breaft: he then ties his feet, and one of his affiftants taking him by the hair of the head, he gives him the number of ftrokes he is doomed to have, which when well applied, never fail to take off the fkin. Drubbing with a ftick is for leffer crimes; they in this cafe lay the criminal flat upon his belly, one fits upon his head, and another upon his heels, while 43 They behead with an ax Bebeading upon a block, and hang as elfewhere. ine d bangs Burying alive. Drubbing: the fentence is executed. When they grture. torture for confeffion, they hang the criminal up, and ftrike him with the aforefaid knoet, and then draw a red hot iron over the wounds he has received: but the moft cruel of — all tortures is when they fhave the crown of the head, and drop cold water uponic. The punifhment of Z¢ punyp. infolvent debtors, or of fuch as can “rt of and will not fatisfy their creditors is thus: they expofe them without the Prikaes, and at feveral times give them Cotors. , ; {}- a 4 Situation of from Ruffia. ee, ee eT Fe ee ee ee ee a Smee ee 44 CQRNELAUS LE BRUYN 1702. them three ftrokes of a cudgel on wy the fide of the. legs. Thofe who are indebted to the amount of 100 rubles, or 500 florins, are ferved in this manner every day for a month together, and thofe whofe debts fall fhort of that fum,. are punifhed in proportion. And when after all this, they cannot clear themfelves, they make an appraifement of all they have, and deliver it: to the creditors; and-in fhort, if this will not do, - they deliver up them, their wives, and children, to the: creditors to make them amends by fervice; for which .fervice they wipe off but five rubles a year for a man, and the half of it for a woman, becaufe they muft both feed and cloath them; and: thus it is that they muft remain in the ftate of fervice tll the laft penny -is paid. . They fay Mofcow isin the center and beft part of Mu/covy, 120 leagues from. the frontiers all: around; -86 from thofe of Poland, and 460 from: the empire of Perfia,.or the town of- Larku, which is under the Mu/- covite on this fide the Ca/pian, -al-. lowing. each league to be equal to an hour. From Mo/cow alfo to the laft. frontier place belonging to the Czar.in Szberia, or to the river of Argoen, which divides the domini- ons of this Prince from thofe of the Cham of China, 7600 werfts, or 1320 leagues, and from thence to Pekin, the capital of China, 2500 werfts, as I have been told by. the Sieur Everhard Isbrants, who travel- led this journey in quality of Envoy As for Mu/fcovy in ge- Mutcovy. neral, what the Latins call Ruffa, Nigra, or Rubra, Black or Red Ruf- fia, and fometimes the Lefer Rujia, that is in the fouthern parts of Po-. land between Polefia, Volbinia, Po- dolia, Tranfilvania and Hungary ; while Raffa is to the northward. of the Red, and is the largeft coun- try in Europe, lying between. the . Fey fea, the river of ‘Faick, the Ca/- pian fea, a part of the Volga, the Crim or Precopian Tartary, the Nie- per or Bory/fthenes, the great Dutchy of Lithuania, Livonia, Efthonia, In- 4 | gria, Sweden, and the Swedi/h Lap- 1702) land. Its chief cities’ are Mo/cow, ~~ W olodimet, Novogorod, Smolensko, Ca- CY cities how, Refan, ‘feroflaw, Pereflaw, Arch- angel, and St. Nicholas. , In the year 1533, this empire of Ru/ia was under the Great Duke or Czar Iwan, or “fobn of Mufco- iy Jan, Bulgar, Aftracan, Wologda, Ple-vy. Bafilowitz, an horrible tyrant, who 672" % died in the year 1584. His fon Fe- dor or Theodore Iwanowitz, fucceeded him that fame year, ‘and died in the year 1598. . Boris Goudenon pofieffed himfelf of the crown, and died f{uddenly in the year 1605. He was fucceeded. by his fon. Fedor Boriffo- wifz Gudenon, who reigned but three months, and was, put to death by the falfe Demetrius in. 1606. He ufurped) the throne, »and was burnt by the Rujfians after he had reigned a year. He. was fucceeded by Bafl Zuski, whom his fubjeéts delivered up to the Poles, and died in the year 1610. » Prince Uladiflaus, the fon of Sigi/mond King of Poland, reigned in his ftead, and in the year 1613. Michalowitz, or Michael Fe- derowitz. of Romanof, {eized.on the {cepter, and reigned till the year 1645. He.was fucceeded by his fon Alexius Michalowitz, who died the 2gth of fanuary 1676. Fedor Alex- ewitz appeared.in his place, and died the 27th of April 1682, without iffue,; ‘The Rujfiens foon after elec- ted his brother Peter Alexewitz, and a. faction againft him crowned his brother Ivan Alexewitz the fame year, whom they made a partner in the throne with him. He died on the 29th of. fanuary 1696. Mufcovy. They reckon here but eleven Pa- Patriarchs. triarchs down to the year 1700 (1) Toff, (2) Germogen, (3) Ignatius, whom, however, they do notreckon among the reft, becaufe he was a Roman Catholic under the pretender Demetrius, (4) Philaret, (5) ‘fofaff, (6) afi. (7) Nikon, (8) Folape, (9) Peflerim, (10) Foachim, (11) Advan; fince whom no one has been chofen to this day. In the year 1689, there were 44 Counfellors Boyars or Counfellors of State, of the following families, (2) of the Fami- ly of State. CORNELIUS 1702. ly of the Zerkaffes, (3) of that of Www the Galithens, (1) of the Odve/fskoy, The Czar’s Sorces. The reve- nues of Roffia. (3) of the Proforefskoy, (cg) of the Sollickowes, (3) of the Wruforey, (3) of the Czeremetof, (1) of the Dolgo- rukt, (1) of the Bonodanofski, (1) of the Trokurof, (1) of the Repum, (1) of the Wolenskoy, (1) of the Koflof- skoy, (1) of the Berantenskoy, (1) of the Tzerbatof, (2) of the Golowins, (1) of the Scheyn, (2) of the Bakur- lino, (1) of the Puskin, (1) of the Chilkoff, (1) of the Stue/chnoff, (1) of the Sabakim, (2) of the Milflafskoj, (2) of the Nartulkuns, (1) of the Sokoff- mus, (1) of theT u/chkoff; (1) of theMa- tunskin. ‘Thefe ferve the Czar in his councils, and have the public Admi- niftration of affairs. The troops this Prince commonly keeps on foot amount to 46 or 50 thoufand, befides fome regiments of horfe and lances, who are paid out of the royal treafury, and receive an annual {tipend in money, in corn and in other neceffaries. In times of war they fummon the whole body of the Ruffian Nobility, a potent bo- dy, which they compute at 200000, including their fervants, many of thefe Gentlemen coming attended with 10, and others with 20 perfons, and the lefs confiderable with two or three, The principal revenues of Rufha, which have been already mentioned, arife from the skins and furs, corn, leather, afhes, hemp, matts, tar, tallow and the like. A great fum arifes alfo from the Kabaks, which are houfes belonging to the Czar, and where they fell brandy, beer, and mead. The cuftoms inward a- mount alfo to a confiderable dea!. From Archangel they tranfport into foreign countries Caviar, and ifing- glafs, which is the bladder of the fturgeon, andis taken in quantities at A/tracan and other places on the Volga. This fame ifinglafs is ufed VO... Lon! BRU Y for the fining down of wine, and 1702. makes a good glue. ufe in dying. It is alfo of wy I think it may not be amifs here to Zergt of give you the length of the days and nights in Rufia. The equinox falls out upon the eighth of September,and makes the days and nights equal. Upon the faventy fourth the day is 11 hours and the night 13. Upon the ¢enth of Odfober the day is 10 hours and the night 14. Upon the twenty fixth the day is g hours and the night 15. Upon the eleventh of November the day is 8 hours and the night 16. Upon the twenty /e- venth the day is 7 hours and the night 17, Upon the twelfth of De- cember the days begin to lengthen. Upon the jirff of fanuary the day is 8 hours and the night 16. Upon the /eventeenth the day is 9 hours and the night 15. Upon the /écond of February the day is 10 hours and the night 14, Upon the eighteenth the day is 11 hours and the night 13. Upon the fixth of March the vernal equinox makes the day and night equal. Upon the fwenty fe- cond the day is 13 hours and the night 11. Upon the /eventh of April the day is 14 hours and the night 10. Upon the ¢wenty third the day is t¢ hours and the night 9. Upon the minth of May the day is 16 hours and the night 8. Upon the twenty jfth the day is 17 hours and the night 7. Upon the twelfth of “fune the days begin to fhorten. Upon the fixth of “Fuly the day is 16 hours and the night 8. Upon the fwenty fecond the day is 15 hours and the night 9. Upon the firff of Auguft the day is 14 hours and the night 10. Upon the twenty third the day is 13 hours and the night 11. Then comes the autumnal equinox and makes the day and night equal again, the days and nights. a Changes brought in- to the Em- pire. The T RIA VE IRS 8 of { CHAP. x. Change of Fafbions and Manners in Ruflia. Triumpbal Arches raifed at Motcow. The Czar's Triumphant Entry for the taking of Notteburgh. IME has wrought great chan- ges in this Empire, and efpeci- ally fince the Czar’s return from his travels. He immediately altered the fafhion of drefs, as well with regard to the men as to the women, and particularly with regard to thofe who had dependance on the Court, or enjoyed any office there, not except- ing one foul, noteven children; and the Ruffian merchants and others Change of drefs fo as not to be diftinguifhed Bees from the people of our country. fed after our manner. The fame year an order was ptb- lithed, forbidding all Ru/fans to ap- pear out of doors, without a Coat of the Poli/b fafhion, or being dref- The fervants to ftrangers were the firft that were compelled to this; for if they did not comply, they were fure to be taken from behind the fledges, and pay a fine before they had their hi- berty again; but this did not affea the peafants and people in the coun- try. As this great alteration may in time blot out the remembrance of the ancient drefs of the country, I painted the drefs of the Ladies up- on canvafs, and have given a fide view of it, that you may the bet- ter diftinguifh the ornaments be- hind the head. This you have in Ne 13, and the whole figure in Ne 14. It muft be obferved that to have the hair uncovered is the fign of a maid; it would be a kind of in- famy for a married woman not to have hers covered. ‘Thefe have a fur cap upon the head, flat at top, and round at bottom, pointed round in form of a crown and inriched with precious ftones as well at top as bottom. It isa little longer behind than before, and has two points; this cap, is called Tryoegh. The ornament upon the head of the young Ladies here reprefented is alfo in form of a crown, or dia- dem rather, fet off with pearls, and diamonds, and called Perewaske. Some tye aribbon to it, which they call Swirtske; what they wear about there neck Ofareye, and the ear- tings Serge. The upper garment lined with furs, is called Soebe, the garment beneath Te/agree or Serra- taen; the fhift Roebaétis; the fleeves of which are fo wide and fo plaited that they take up fixteen or feven- teen ells of cloth. The bracelets or ornaments for the arms, which fall upon their hands, are called Sarokavie. Their ftockings, which are not to tye up, Zoelks; and their flippers, which are either red or yellow, with very high and {harp heels, Ba/makye. Befides this alteration in drefs the Beard: cut Ruffians were obliged to fhave the face, 7 all but the upper lip, and thofe about the court, as well as fome others, do not even fparethat. That this or- der might be executed to the utmoft, there were perfons imployed to cut off the beards of all manner of per- fons without diftinction; this feemed fo very fevere to fome that they of- fered to dazzle the eyes of thofe, who had this extraordinary commif- fion, with money; but to no purpote, for they immediately met with others who would give them no fore of quarter. And this was even done at the Czar’s table, and every where elfe, to people even of the very firft quality ; nor itis to be conceived what grief it caufed; many there were who could not be comforted for the lofs of their beards; their beards which they had worn fo long, and looked on as marks of honour and diftin@ion; numbers there were who would CORNELIUS LE BRUYN, 49 1702. would have given any thing in the “Y™) world to have been free from the power of this deftrudtive law. Alterations in drefs however have not been fo very extraordinary among fhameful; which juft puts me in 1702. mind of a ftory which I muft tell. eww There came one day a young man 4 poy ofa to the houfe where I lodged, to asks«ng beg- charity of a merchant who hapned**” Hopitals florins. Sor beggars have fome fubfiftence, hofpitals were the women, excepting among the higher fort, who drefs juft as. the women do with us. But to effect all this thoroughly at the beginning, it was neceflary to fend for hats, fhoes, and the like, from beyond-fea; but as this was both inconvenient and chargeable, the Rufians began to imitate thofe things, ill enough, as you may be- lieve in the beginning ; but they did better afterwards when they had once got workmen from abroad to inftruct them a little; for as we have already faid, they are good at imitation, and love to learn. thieves ufed to mix with them, to have the opportunity of cutting a purfe or picking a pocket, things which a Ruffian confcience knows how to digeft with great eafe. The Czar refolving to put a ftop to thefe things ordered that no beggar fhould preftume to ask for alms in the {treets, and that no one fhould pre- fume to give them any thing, un- der a forfeiture of five rubles or 2¢ But that the poor might erected for them not far from each church as well within as without Mofcow, which the Czar endowed with an annual income. And thus were people delivered from a terrible inconvenience; for there was no ftir- ring out of a church without being perfecuted by thefe wretches from one end of the ftreet to the other: And it produced ftill another good effect, for many of thefe beggars be- thought them of working for fear of being locked up in an hofpital; for beggars naturally hate work, nor can indure to have begging thought Tone to lodge there. The merchant ask- ed him why he did not rather chufe to work for his bread, or get into fome fervice. The young beggar anfwered he did not know how to work, having never been taught to do any thing, and that as for going to fervice there was nobody would take him. The merchant upon this obferving him to have a good honeft face, afked him if he would come and ferve him, if he would do it with diligence, and if he could get any body to anfwer for his fidelity ; for it is quite neceflary, and very common in this country, to require Regati- Good regulations were alfo made fecurity from fervants, for if you have ing beggars COnCEMMINg beggars, who ufed to be it not, you have no remedy to refort about the ftreets in fuch numbers, toif youare robbed. The poor ladan- both men and women, that you was {wered he knew nobody that would be alfo furrounded with them if you bound for him butGod, whom he cal- but ftept into a fhop to buy any led to witnefs thathe would ferve him thing at Mo/cow. But whatis worfe honeftly. The merchant was fatis- fied with this, took him into. his fervice, and he proved a faithful fervant; but it hapning that the young fellow grew a little too great with a fervant maid, and he getting her with child, ic was no fooner confirmed to her, than the told him of it, and fince he had brought her to fhame, he was ferioufly advifed to marry her. He had no great mind to this, becaufe fhe was an overmatch for him in years, but be- ing urged to keep his promife with her, and others afking him if he thought to juftify his condu& with his fecurity, [meaning God] he con- fefied he fhould be put to it fo to do, and promifed to marry the wo- man. He did fo, and began a little trade with what he had faved in his mafter’s fervice, and he thrived fo well that he keeps now one of the top woollen-drapers fhops in Mo/cow, and is reckoned to be worth above 30,000 livers. His wife is ftill wich him and they live very well together ; but as fhe is upwards of /ixty and the children he had of her are wie ; ¢ . a ss 48 Th TRAVELS of 1702. he would fain perfuade her to let l-v~™ him maintain her in a convent, that fohe might have the propagation and enjoyment of a new family, which he might without any in- fringement of the laws of Ruffa, but he has not as yet been able to prevail on her. Alterations ‘Thefe alterations have even affect- in the of- ed the publick offices, where all writ- i ings are now performed after our manner. ‘The Czar has this much at heart, as well as every thing elfe that may be for the good, welfare and fecurity of the ftate, where no- thing is done without his partici- pation, every thing goes through his hands. He has with extreme diligence already fortified Novogorod, Places for-Eleskow, Afoph, Smolensko, Kieof, and tified. Archangel; and notwithftanding the vaft expence of all this, he has been fo good a manager that he has fill Treafury of 300,000 rubles in his coffers; this he the fate. told me himfelf, and I had it after- wards from feveral others; and that after having provided for all the ex- pences of the war, for the building of fhips, and all the other exigences The expenceof the ftate. It is true indeed with Jee bul. regard to the building of fhips, that ing raifed . ; upon the 18 at the publick expence, every gublic. — thoufand of the peafants being oblig- ed to bring in all that is neceflary for building of a fhip, and every thing relating thereto. Thefe pea- fants are either the vaffals of this Prince or of fome Lords, or gentle- men, or monatteries, which laft have great numbers of them, and particularly that of Zrooyrz, as has already been faid. And thus the fubje&s of this Prince have great reafon to pray to God to preferve him, and to blefs his reign, that they may draw nearer and nearer to the knowledge of fuch things as may be of ufe and benefit to them. And great reafon they have to hope they thall, for the Fine uali-young Heir to this Empire, now is ties of He but 14 years old, who, young as he ‘editary 8, treads already in the foorfteps Prine. Of his father, and gives great figns of underftanding and genius; he takes notice of every thing, is very. 4 5 #4 = Ye ae ee SS ere _ 7 OO — see ene inquifitive, and is of a fine difpofi- 1702. tion; nor is the Czar unmindful to “VW cultivate all this in him, taking a moft particular care of his educa- tion, and, among other points, ma- king him learn Latin and German. Upon the fourteenth of September, sweaith 800 Swedi/h prifoners, men, women Prifoners. and children, were brought into this city, and many of them were fold for 3 or 4 florins a head, foon after they raifed the price to 20 or 30. This incouraged the ftrangers to buy fome of them, to the.great good luck of thefe poor people, it being their intention to keep them no lon- ger than the war lafted, and then to give them their liberty. The Ru/- frans alfo bought feveral, but mife- rable was the lot of thofe who fell into the hands of the Tartars, who carried them off into flavery, a moft deplorable circumftance. Upon the fwentieth, news was Notte- brought that Notteburgh had been bush ‘a taken by his Majefty’s arms, and” ” that the place had furrendred upon certain conditions, after ic had fuf- tained three affaults, and upon the twenty third they fung Le Deum up- on this occafion.: Towards the end of this month it began to fnow, and in the be- ginning of Oéfober it froze, but no- thing came of it, it rained foon after, as it had to our great inconyeni- ence for a long while before. A great number of merchantmen S#ips ae arrived this year at Archangel; they “*hansel reckoned no lefs than 154, v/z. 66 Englifhmen, under the convoy of 4 men of war, as many Dutchmen, un- der the convoy of three, 16 Ham- burghers, 4. Danes, and one Bremener. The truth is there were feveral fmall fhips among the Exgli/h, whofe car- goe was no great matter. In the middle of November the ri- ver of Yuf/a was frozen over behind our flabode, and feveral of the Dutch and fome of the Ru/fans ikated over it, no {now having as yet fallen. I had got a hand-fledge made after the manner of our country, and [I took this opportunity to divert a young Lady upon the ice with ir, afighte Oe ee ee ee COR MEL ITI-WSALE BRU YN 1702. a fight they had never feen before. \“vY™ This was the fecond time I had had An office burnt. Preparati- ons for the Cxzar’s en- try. Triumpbal to make his entry. arches. {kates on for 32 years before, and I found a man does not eafily for- get what he has once well learned; but this was a fhort-lived diverfion, {now falling the next day. Upon the twenty-fourth, the Pri- kaes or office of Polofske, in the caf- tle, was reduced to afhes, and caufed a great confternation. In the beginning of December, word came that the Czar was arrived at the town of Pefchik, go werfts from Mo/cow; from thence he came to Salnikof, a country-houfe belong- ing to Prince Lofreilis, his uncle, 30 werfts from this capital, from thence to Nikoolskie at the houfe of the Knez Mighalo Sakoliets Serkaske, Go- vernor of Siberia, but 7 werfts from this City. Every thing was then got ready for his Majefty’s entry; and moft of the foreign merchants had orders to provide themfelves with a greater number of horfes than ufual, with a fervant, drefled in the German fafhion, to condué& the artillery that had been taken from the Swedes. The foreign Minifters, our Refident, and the Engli/b Conful, and fome of the merchants, went the next day to pay their compliments to the Czar at Nikoolskie, and returned the next day in the morning, which was the fourth, and the day this Prince was To this pur- pofe there had been prepared trium- phal arches of wood in the ftreet of Meefniets, the firft in the red-wall oppofite to the Greek monattery, near the printing-houfe, and the houfe of the Velt-Marthal Czeremetof, the fecond in the white-wall, near the . imiralty office, about 400 paces from the other. The ftreets and the fields were full of people to fee this folemnity, and I croffed the town, and went out of it to fee the beginning of the fight. When I came I found there was a ftop, to put things in order, and that the Czar was bufy about it in perfon, and being on foot I drew near to him to pay him my compliments Vor tf. and congratulate him upon his re 1702. turn: He thanked me, and embraced “~Wns me, and feemed to be pleafed I was ftillin his dominions: He then took me by the hand and told me, He would Jhew me fome fhips colours, and that he gave me leave to draw whatever I would. While I was fo doing, a certain Ruffian Lord, attended by fome fervants, came and took the paper out of my hand, and called a German officer to know what I was about; but when he underftood I was at work by the order of the Czar, he gave it me back again, and I made an end of my work, which it had been impoflible for me to have done without his Ma- jefty’s leave. This entry was made in the fol- Tianphani 49 lowing order; firft came the regi-“””" ment of guards confifting of 800 men, and commanded by Colonel de Ridder, a German by birth. One half of this body was cloathed in {carlet, in the German manner, the other in the Ruffian, becaufe there had not been time enough to finifh their new cloaths. The Swedi/b prifoners as well foldiers as peafants walked between two, three abreaft, and were divided into feven bands, each of about 80 or 84 perfons, making in all about 580 men, be- tween three companies of {oldiers. After thefe came two fine led-horfes, and a company of granadiers in green lined with red, in the German fa- fhion, except that they had bear- {kin caps inftead of hats; thefe were the firft granadier-guards, and after thefe came fix halberdiers, five haut- boys and fix officers. Then came the royal regiment of Probrofensko, 400 of them new cloathed after the German manner, in green lined with red and white-laced hats; with the Czar and Prince Alexander at the head of them, preceded by nine German flutes, and fome fine led- horfes. ‘This regiment was follow- ed by a party of that of Semenoskie; his Majefty’s guards alfo, in blue lined with red, and after thefe came the colours taken from the Swedes. Firft two ftandards followed by a. O great 50 MY G2RaTaRA WELSH of 1702. great flag which had been difplayed muficians, two and two, moft fump- 1702. (“VY upon the caftle of Notteburgh, car- tuoufly drefled. The great arch was “WN SEE = oe i ; \ : yt. SE nis SEES. oe ried by four foldiers; and then fix fhips colours, and 25 enfigns, blue, green, yellow and red, each carried by two foldiers. Moft of thefe en- figns had two golden lyons, and a crown attop. After thefe came 40 pieces of cannon, fome drawn by four, fome by fix horfes of a colour, four great mortars, 15 great brafs field-pieces little and big; then an- other mortar, and then very long and heavy brafs cannon, fome drawn by fix and fome by eight horfes. After thefe came a great cheft of kitchen utenfils, ten fledges with fire-arms, three drums, and another fledge with fmiths-tools, and a great pair of bellows. Then came the officers that were prifoners, about forty in number, walking each of them be- tween two foldiers, and then fome fledges with the fick and wounded, followed by fome of the Ruffian {ol- diers, clofed up the march. It was one in the afternoon when they en- tred the city; and having paffed the gate of Twerskie which is to the northward, they advanced up to the firft triumphal arch, and the regi- ment of guards went through, and here the Czar halted a good quarter of an hour, to refrefh himfelf and receive the congratulations of the clergy. As the ftreet here was pret- ty broad the triumphal piece erected was compofed of three arches, a large one in the middle, and a {mall one on each fide, and was fo covered with tapeftry, pictures, figures and devices that there was no feeing the wooden work, with a balcony at the top where were eight young crowned with an eagle and trophies of colours and the like; and the houfes near it were alfo hung with carpets, tapeftry, and pictures; ‘the balconies were full: of ftreamers, mu- ficians and all forts of inftruments ac- companied by anorgan, which made moft) delightful» harmony. The ftreets were ftrewed with green branches and other verdure in this place, where was a greatnumber of the Nobility. The Princefs, his Ma- jefty’s fifter, the Czarina and the Princefles her daughters, attended by a great number of Ruffian and fo- reign Ladies were a little beyond, at the houfe of the Sieur [akof Wa/f- eliof Feuderof, to fee the fhow. ‘The Czar having faluted the Princeffes, advanced on to the fecond arch, ‘adorned like the firft, and having in this order marched through the city, he went out at the gate of Meefnietfe, and proceeded towards the flabode of the Germans, where being arrived, the Dutch Refident made him an offer of wine, but he chofe beer, and I had the honour to prefent him a glafs of it, He drank but a little of it, and went on to Probrofensko; but night coming upon him, as he was going out of the flabode, he mounted his horfe and there was an end of the fhow. ‘Tho’ there flocked together an unfpeak- able number of the people upon this occafion, there hapned no mifchief that I know of; every thing went on orderly and quietly, to the fatisfac- tion of every body, tho’ the ftreets were full of {caffolds. C HeArre: CORNELIUS LE BRUYN. 1702. CH A P.. Xt. Confecration of the Palace of Imeelhoff, Prefents carried thither. gard to Births, Funerals and Marriages, even among the Foreigners. PON the fwelfth of this month the Czar came unex- _ pectedly to dine, at ten in the morn- ing, with the Sieur Lwps, juft arrived from Archangel. 1 went, without knowing his Majefty was there, to with that merchant joy of his return: the Czar had only two Ruffian Noble- men with him, and having had a fight of me, he ordered me in to The Author him, ‘and I took the opportunity to rere, prefent him with fome verfes I had Cxar upon made upon the taking of Notteburgh, bis con defiring him toexcufe their Imperfec- #*- “sions, in confideration I was no poet, and to look on them only as the ef- fects of my zeal for his honour, and joy for his victories. He received them very gracioufly, made me fit down, and ordered me to give the Sieur Lups an account of his entry, which I did tohis full fatisfaction, and hav- ing drank fome bumpers to a con- tinuation of fucceffes, his Majef- ty went away at two in the after- noon. Upon the zneteenth I had orders from the Emprefs to carry ihe young Princeffes pictures, I had painted a fecond time, to the palace of L/meel- bof. They went from Mofcow jutt at the inftant I did, and had but juft ftept out of the coach when I came. The Emprefs’s brother and fome priefts waited to introduce them in procefiion into the palace, which having fallen toruin was rebuilt this fummer; and this was the day it was to be confecrated before the court came to live init My orders were to {top in the firft apartments, where I found feveral Ladies of the Court. The floor was covered with hay, and on the right hand there Confecra- tion of the palace. I was a large table on which were both fmall and great loaves; upon fome of which there was an hand- ful of falt, and on others a filver falt-feller full. It is the cuftom of this country that the relations and friends of fuch as are going to live in anew houfe, fhould, in fome fort, confecrate it with falt, and that for feveral days together; which they mean alfo as a token of the profpe- rity they wifh the parties, and that they may never want the neceflaries of life: And even thofe that remove from one houfe to another, leave hay and bread upon the ground of the houfe they go out of, to exprefs the bleffings they with on thofe who are to come to live in it after them. The rooms of the apartment where I ftopped were hung, above the doors and windows, with 17 different pictures in the Greek manner, repre- fenting their principal faints, whom they commonly have in the firft room, nor are they wanting in others. The Emprefs’s brother was at the end of this room, accompanied by fome priefts ftanding with books be- fore them, and finging of hymns; and while they were about this, which lafted a good hour and a half, her Imperial Majeftv was in an inner apartment next but one; and the cere- mony being over I was carried into an- A French Surgeon killed. Cuftoms with re- | other room where this Princefs came, 1%¢ 4uthor and having an interpreter by my fide cougratu- lates the I wifhed her all forts of profperity. Empre/s She took me by the hand and faid, She?” co ming into would fhew me fome other apartments, a new pa- which was a furprizing courtefy in ae. perfon of her high rank. She then ordered one of her maids to fill me out a little gold cup of brandy, which = PALES EEA SEE ct EO IERIE NOR a IE EI EE ATL DE EL al P - J — fe . oe ? a! a th 4 4 ft. ee ne a oe eee ae ee ae ee MS ae le _ 52 The TRAVELS. of 1702. which fhe prefented to me herfelf, \y~ and then did me the honour to give me her hand to kifs, as did alfo the three young Princeffes then prefent ; after which the difmiffed me with or- ders to come again in three days time. The du- As the Chrifmas Holydays were ‘nt tov, coming on, I took the liberty to pre- Empref. fent the Emprefs with a picture I had drawn of the birth of Chrift, together with fome beads I had brought from Ferufalem, and prayed her to accept of them inftead of bread and falt. She feemed to be very much pleafed at this, and thanking me, made me a prefent in her turn; and as L had alfo brought beads for the young Princeffes, fhe ordered me to carry them to them myfelf. Idid fo, and finding them at table in another room, and having made them my prefent, I returned again to the Emprefs; but one of them followed me to her mo- ther, and prefented me with a {mall cup of brandy, and then gave me a great glafs of wine; upon which I withdrew, with returns of my moft humble thanks. Upon the twenty fifth the Rufians celebrated the feaft of Chri/tmas, ac- cording to their rites, and the Czar began his round of vifits to his friends as he had done the year before. ‘ We had very wet weather till the end of the year, which had made the ways fo bad, that the merchants and others from Archangel and other places, were five or fix days longer up- on the road than ufual; fuch a winter had not been known for many years before. But upon the beginning of ‘fanuary, the weather changed all at once, it cleared up, and began 1703, % freeze in good earneft. The fir/ CAN) day of this year was taken up in Fire-eworks preparing for a fire-work to be played for theta! for the taking of Notteburgh; i shea Mee. g eburgh; it was ieburgh. upon the fide of the river Moska, be- hind the caftle, in a place called the royal mead, the grafs or hay of which is according to antient cuf-— tom, carried upon a certain day intothe churches. This fire-work did _ notdiffer from the former in any thing but the figures and devices. The next day the Caar came to Mr. 4 Brants, attended by 200 perfons, 1703. who were all entertained in a roomy below, with the found of trumpets and ttn Me. kettle-drums. - Here, among other Brants. things, was fhewn a fword of pro- # ‘xr digious fize, five foot and half long, fod. and three inches and half broad in the fheath; it was well proportioned, and weighed 30 pounds. I defired the perfon whofe it was, to draw it, and found it was waved on each fide; the blade however was pretty light, and ferviceable, in proportion to the hilt, When it was in the fcabbard and the point upon the ground, it was as much as a man of good~ - ftrength could do to poife it with one hand; but three of us, one after the other, did it, without flattering the gentleman it belonged to, who was the fon of the laft Governor Barbarmu: of Afracan, called Petrofski, who 8 74 was put to death by the S¢relit/es or degverance foldiers, who threw him down from the top of a tower. This fon of his was but a child when this hap- ned; and yet they were fo cruel as to hang him up by the heels, and fuffer him fo to hang for 48 hours together; which fo fpoiled his feet that it made him a cripple, and obli- ges him to have fhoes of a particu- lar make, and crutches to enable him to walk. Towards the evening there ap- 4rival of ared one to reprefent the Patri- send arch, habited in a pontifical mantle, fnted the and finging to the found of a bell. Pasriaré. This was a fignal to depart, and the Czar immediately went his way, with all his train to make an end of his vifits. Upon the fxzb of this month they kept the Twelfth-day in Tweifs- the manner they had the year before ; but it is to be obferved there were not fo many churchmen as before, nor fo great a number of the fine caps or mitres we mentioned; fo that there is reafon to believe time will make fome notable chan- ges in this anniverfary folemnicy. Upon the ¢wentieth the Czar fent an order to the chief of the Ruffian No- blemen, Ladies and others to the num- ber of 300, tobe at J/imeelboff at nine in the morning. The fame had been commu- COR MEER LUSS Eh Ew Bw Y N. 53 confternation this murderous vi0- 1703: 1703. communicated to the foreign mini- lence caufed, by the favour whereof “YN wv ~ fters, merchants, and their wives; fo that there was an appearance of about $00 perfons, and it had been exprefly recommended to every body to come with a prefent for the Cza- the perpetrators of ic made their efcape for the prefent, tho’ they were taken two days afterwards. Their Colone! who was prefent when : . ; The mur rina to be given her at the time Prefents oof congratulation. Thefe prefents they did this, by good words pre- derers hy: vailed on his fervant to take theseéer. the Cza- confift ufually in curious toys of gold crime upon himfelf, and to fay it was atl filver,pretty medals,and fuch like he whocommitted the murder, pro- things, according to the abilities and =mifing him not only a pardon, but to inclinations of the donor; but before make him an Enfign; and the inno- they are prefented, they are regifter- cent man prevailed on by this means, ed with the name of each perfon,, gave out that he was the criminal: and then they were delivered to one but he was nofooner put to the que- of the young Princeffes, who inre- {tion by torture, than he difowned turn offered her hands to kifs. Moft the whole, and named the affaffin, of the Lords and Ladies of the coun- tho’ too late, as fhall be obferved in try withdrew immediately, but the a proper place. | reft were detained to dinner, after The Czar, at this time, refolved Pyepara- which there was dancing and diver- upon a tour to Veronis, attended by #2” * go fion ull midnight. fome Ruffian Noblemen, and fome” very —— That faine night there happened Germans whom he ordered to be an ugly accident at the wedding of Captain Staets, where two Surgeons dancing with their wives, two offi- cers who were juft come in, would have taken them to dance with them. Words upon this arofe, and one of the officers in the fervice of the Czar, called Bodon, ran his {word through the body of one of the Surgeons, cal- led Gurée, a Frenchman, who had nothing to defend himfelf, and fell down dead on the fpot. The other, whofe name was Hovy, was at the fame time wounded by another offi- cer, whofe name was Captain Saks; perceiving himfelf wounded, he {topped his wound with his Finger, and got away, but the Captain pur- fuing him, he was obliged to come ready for the journey. Upon the twenty fifth, I received the fame or- der by the Sieur Heznfius, who told me his Majefty was defirous I fhould fee that place, the fhips there, and whatever elfe was remarkable. But it is now time to talk of the marriage of the Boyar, Iwan Feude- rowitz Golowin, or Fobnu Theodore the fon of Count Golowin, firft Minifter of ftate, with the Lady Boreefowitz Czeremetof, the Daughter of Boris Theodor e,Velt-marthal of Czeremetof, who was employ’d by his Czarian Majefty on feveral Embaflies, and particularly to the Court of Vienna, where he acquired a very great re- putation, and received the order of Malta. As there is fomething remarkable Exeraor.' into the houfe, and in a fainting fit : in this wedding, and as it was cele-“”*” * fell down by the fide of his dead com- avedding. | panion, but one of his friends fuck- ing the blood out of the wound, he came to himfelf again. Thefe offi- cers had attack'd them once before, but one of the Surgeons getting hold of a fword, and the other laying hands on a chair, drove them out of the room; enraged at which, they returned to the charge, and before the whole company committed the fact here related. It is not hard to conceive what a terrible diforder and Moz. I. brated between two of the moft con- fiderable perfonages of the ftate, I will here give a particular account of it, which was upon the twenty eighth of this month in the palace of the Boyar Feudor Alexewitz Golowin, which was fitted upon this occafion. This is an handfome wooden edifice, well defigned according to the rules of art, full of fine apartments above and below, and upon an eminence, a little beyond the flabode of the P Ger- Se es ae - POSE IID AIOE S RIE. ERE es . ~-ssiee eases . i eta ee le oY whe TRAVELS. of 1703. Germans, on the other fide of the wv™ river Youfa. In the great Salon were feveral tables placed in good order, with mufic, and in another apart- ment was a table for the Czar’s fitter, the Emprefs and the three young Princefles; for feveral Ladies of the Court, and for the Lords and Ladies of the country who were apart; nor was there wanting a great crowd of {petators. About’ eleven o'clock the bridegroom appeared alone in the chamber of audience, on the left hand, where he received the congratulations of theNobility,;whom he treated with diftilled liquors. About noon they came and acquaint- ed him it was time to repair to the place where he was to be married, and he was conducted with trum- pets and kettle drums, that wait- ed for him at the door, to a {mall chappel in the palace, but a few fteps off. It would be no eafy mat- ter to difplay all the pomp of this feftival wherein the Czar condefcend- ed to officiate as Marfhal, and was every where. As foon as the bride- groom had got into the chappel, the | bride was fent for; fhe had pafied the night before at the houfe of the late Mr. Houtman, in the flabode of the Germans, oppofite to the Dutch church, and had by the Czar’s or- der been fome time delivered up to the Velt-marfhal, the bride’s father. All the Ruffian and German Ladies invited to this wedding, repaired thither alfo to wait on this Lady,who was conducted to the place in the following order. The firft that ap- peared was a kettle drummer upon a white horfe, followed by five trum- pets mounted upon the fame: then 16 ftewards of the houfhold, as it were, chofen from among the Ruf fiansand the ftrangers: then the Czar himfelf in a fine coach made in Ho/- land, and fix dapple gray horfes. Af- ter him, five empty coaches and fix; then a calafh and fix for the bride, and fome other Ladies. Inthe midft of this, the Princefs his Majefty’s fif- ter, the Czarina,and the three young Princeffes came to the nuptial palace in coaches without wheels, after the 2 os ee Se eee ee Se a ee el marae =.) eee” ee ll ee ——e ee eh lL he manner of fledges, each in. one, 1703. and each drawn by fix horfes; be- “Ww fides a great number of Ladies of the court. In about half an hour the bride herfelf appeared with the Ladies of her train, who had got in- to the empty coaches. When got out at the palace, fhe was received by twoNoblemen who were to be her fathers, the one a Ruffian, the other Count Kom /eegg, Envoy from Poland, who taking her by the hand, con- duéted her into the chappel, and placed her on one fide of the bride- groom. She was followed by the Czar’s fifter, the young Princeffes, and other Ladies of the court, who {topped in the entrance of the chap- pel; and fome Ruffian and foreign Ladies ranged themfelves on the fides without, the chappel being fo {mall it could not hold above ten or a dozen perfons ; fo that thofe who went in, were only the Czar, the Czarian Prince, the Bride and Bridegroom, the two Fathers, and two or three otherRu/ian Noblemen; butasI was very defirous to behold this folem- nity, I got behind the bridegroom, who was richly cloathed, after the German fafhion, as well as his bride, who was in white fattin wrought with gold, with her head-drefs {ec : off with diamonds ; and behind her hung a great trefs of hair, under her fontange, a fafhion which has been long in ufe with the Germans, and upon her head fhe had a {mall crown with diamonds. When the ceremo- ny opened, the prieft came and ftood between the couple, and began to read in a book, he held in his hand, in confequence of which, the bride- groom put a ring on a finger of the bride’s. ‘Then the prieft took two crowns joined together, of filver gilt, which he made them kifs, and then put upon their heads. After this he began to read again, and the couple gave their right hands to each other. and in that manner went three times round the chappel. The prieft then took a glafs of red wine, and made the new married pair drink of ir, which when they had done, they re- turned it to him, who gave it to thofe | | | | Pa 1703. CORNED VG Swe R U YS then chufe a godfather and a god- 1703. thofe who officiated near him. The wW™ Czar who was walking about all the Roffian cuftoms at births. time, with a marfhal’s ftaff in his hand, perceiving the prieft was go- ing/to his book again, commanded him to cut his work fhort, and a m1- nute afterwards he pronounced the nuptial benediction. His Majefty then ordered thé bridegroom to kifs his bride, which the refufed to let him, till the Czar repeated his command, and then fheobey’d. ‘Theceremony over, they went to the bridal hall. During the time of the ceremony the Czarina and the Ladies of the court were at the windows oppofite to the chappel. In a little time they fat down to table, the bridegroom a- mong the men, and the bride among the women, at the common table in the great hall. The rejoicings con- tinued for three days together, which were fpent in dancing, and all kinds of merriment. ‘The third day they regaled the gentlemen who had ap- peared in the character of ftewards. This wedding was very different from the old way of celebration, which it were needlefs for me to {peak of, fo many having done it already. _ Having thus fufficiently dilated on the head of marriages, I pafs on to the cuftoms at births and burials a- mong this people. As foon as ever a child comes in- to the world, they fend for a prieft to purify it. This purification is ex- tended to every one prefent, whom they call over by their names, and give them the bleffing, never {uffer- ing any one to enter the room till the prieft is come, and when he is, they name the child after the Saint, whofe day was kept eight days be- fore the birth of the child, or that is to be kept eight days afterwards. They adminifter the facrament after their rite, to the child, before the baptifm, and efpecially among peo- ple of diftinction, and feldom bap- tize but act the end of five. or fix weeks, when the infant is {trong and hearty. When itis a boy they church or purify the mother at the end of five weeks, and when it happens to be a girl, at the end of fix. They 55 mother, and never change them af- —W4 terwards; nor can thefe godfathers and godmothers marry together, nor thofe in the third degree from them. At the funerals of the better fort, Funerals. all the friends of both fexes follow the body, tho’ uninvited. ‘They put the body upon a bier carry’d by four or fix men, the coffin being covered with a fine pall, and the women neareft of kin, make loud lamenta- tions, as I mentioned in my firft tra- vels. The priefts intonate the fu- neral hymn; butall this is done with much lefs ceremony among the com- mon people. The cuftoms among the foreigners ¢, 4,9, are different from thefe with regard among to births and marriages, and the fame/4"ge"* with us, excepting in the form of celebrating a wedding exclufive of the religious part, and this is carry’d on with great folemnity. They fend two reprefenting ftewards to invite © thofe they would have, and thefe — ftewards do it in winter, in a fine fledge, drawn by two horfes drefled up in ribbons, and attended by two fervants behind the fledge. The number of guefts is commonly 109 or 150, and fometimes more, ac- cording as it is thought proper, and according to the number of the Gentlemen and Ladies of the coun- try that are asked. ‘The Marfhal ts the chief man at thefe feftivals, and goes about with a truncheon and a ribbon at the end of it, and he, affitt- ed by the ftewards,begins all healths; and befides thefe it is ufual to have four or fix, or eight under-ftewards, who have the care of preparing all things in the houfe, as well with regard to the furniture as other ne- ceflaties. Thefe help the ftewards to ferve the guefts, and are to be known by a fine fcarf on the right arm, which they have in common with the fteward, except that his is richer; thefe the bride-maids tye on for them. ‘Thefe maids are intrc- duced into the hall where the featft is, with great ceremony, and the found of inftruments; and the more to ho- nour the bride and bridegroom, they on 56 1703. The on each fide chufe two fathers, two L\~v mothers, two brothers, and two fif- Funerals. ters, who are introduced in the fame manner ; then they fit down to table in the places appointed for every one. The carver gets between the two bride maids oppofite to the bride, and they tye him on a fcarf upon his arm. ‘The bridegroom fits between the fathers and brothers, and the bride between the mothers and. fif- ters. When they have done, they in another room entertain the Mar- fhal, the ftewards, and the carver. Then they dance, the Marfhal open- ing the ball with the bride, and then the other Ladies are defired to dance with the ftewards. The fathers and mothers dance after thefe, then the brothers and fifters, and at laft the new married pair, and two or three other couple. This done, the Mar- thal cries out Liberty, and then dance who will: thefe doings commonly laft three days together, and upon the laft, the bride-maids entertain the Marthal, the ftewards, their de- puties, and the carver. Their funerals are in this manner. They keep the body for fome days, and invite the chiefs of the nation, and afterwards moft of the merchants, and other friends, as well in the city as in the flabode; which is done by two perfons of their nation, appoint- ed for that purpofe, or chofen by the friends and relations of the deceafed ; and thefe wear long black cloaks, and a crape hatband. Tho’, upon thefe occafions, the company commonly meet at two in the afternoon, it is night before the body is committed to the ground in winter, and pretty late in fummer. They have 15 or 16 mourners, and r2 bearers, all married and dreffed in black, with great cloaks of the fame, which they keep for that purpofe in the churches. The mourners fit in the beft room on the right hand, with the male rela- tions of the deceafed, and every one that comes in falutes them. The bearers have a crape hat-band, and a {carf over the fhoulder of the fame, and fometimes white gloves. They have all forts of refrefhments upon 2 T RUAY EE S two different tables, and they are 1703. continually ferving you about with v4 ag wine, flip, {weatmeats, toafted bread, and lemons, when they are to be had, Before the corpfe goes.out of the houfe, it isufualto prefent each of the bearers with a filver fpoon, with the name of the deceafed en- graved upon it; the fame is alfo fometimes prefented to the minifter, the {choolmafter, and the mourners ; but when it is a maid they are car~ rying to the grave, they give gold tings with the name alfo of the deceafed inftead of fpoons. ‘The bearers nail up the coffin before it goes out, and as foon as they begin | to move, the fchoolmafter and the {cholars begin to fing with each a book in his hand; but the Ca/uini/ts do fo only at the church-yard. The young fcholars go before, followed by their mafter, the minifter, and the chiefs of the funeral ; then comes the body, and after it, the neareft relations, the mourners, the mer- chants,and officers,who do not go re- gularly two and two as with us, but four or five at a time, juft as it hap- pens, or as they pleafe. When they have reached the church-yard, and depofited the corpfe in the grave, they begin again with fome funeral pfalms and chaunts; then the mi- nifter makes a difcourfe, and thanks thofe who have attended the corpfe for the honour they have done him; and the bearers who have each a fhovel in their hand, throw in the earth till the grave is nearly filled up; then all that were invited are defired to return to the houfe of the deceaf- ed, but few go in befides the bear- ers, who are entertained with drink and tobacco. Sometimes they have a funeral fermon at church, and the women are invited to be there. The widow of the deceafed comes with her neareft female relations all co- vered over with crape, and thefe of- tentimes give evident tokens of their grief evenin the ftreets. Sometimes alfo they give an entertainment after- wards. ‘They go in coaches or on horfeback in fummer, it being im- poflible to go on foot. The coffins were 1703. Tourney to Veronis. COR NE LP UWSh Ex BR U YN, and indeed they have two churches, 1703. “V™ is now forbidden, the Czar defign- while the others have but one in the\“Y™ were formerly made of oak; but this ing to preferve that wood for other ufes. The number of Calviniffs here may amount to about 200. The Lutherans are much more numerous, flabode. ‘There have been two Ye- fuits for fome time fettled here, who - teach Latin to feveral children of their rite. . Cir FO Peery His Czarian Majefty’s departure for Veronis, whither the au- thor and feveral others attend him. Things remarkable on the way. Arrival at Veronis, HE time appointed for the Czar’s departure being come, he was attended by ‘fobn Alexewitz Moefin Poeskin, firft infpector and vi- fitor of the monafteries of Rufiz,who had been Governor of Affracan, an office he had executed with great honour; Alexis Petrowitz Ifmeelboff; the Knez Gregory Gregoriwitz Gaga- rin, ‘fobn Andrewitz Tolltoy, Gover- nor of 4/opb, Ivan Davidewitz, Go- vernor of Kolomna, Alexander Waffe- lewitz Kisken, great Steward of the houfhold, and Gentleman of the chamber to his Majefty ; Nariskie, the fon of his Majefty’s uncle, and by many other Lords who came to Veronts after us. The Czar alfo did the Sieur Komigsegg Envoy extra- ordinary from Poland, the Sieur Kez- Jerling, Envoy from the King of Pruffia, the Sieur Bellofeur, Agent from the Sieur Ogzenskie, one of the firft Generals, and one of the beft friends to the King of Poland, to fome officers of his houfhold,and the fons of the famous General /e Fort the honour of requefting their com- pany. He took with him alfo three merchants,Mr. S¢eel,a fine gentleman much efteemed by this Prince, and Mr. Hill, Englifhbmen, and the Sieur Kinjfius a Dutchman, all three ex- tremely well affected to his Majefty, who defired I fhould go before with them, and we fet out upon the thirty firft of “fanuary; and the next day Vor, I. the Czar came after us with all his company. We had got the bottom of our fledges fhod with iron, that they might the better be able to carry us thro’ our journey, the ground being fcarcely covered over with fnow; and his Majefty had granted us poft- wodens, and we had fix fledges for us and our fervants. We left the fla- bode of the Germans about three in the afternoon, and we were to have relays of frefh horfes every 20 werfts. There are pofts at the end of every werft between this and Veronzs, upon which in Rujian and German charac- ters youfee the date of the year1701, the time when they were fet up. Between each of the pillars which are painted red and pretty high there are 19 or 20 {mall trees on each fide, and fometimes three or four toge- ther, interwove with branches like gabions, to defend them and keep them in the ground. There are 552 of thefe pillars, amounting to near 110 leagues, reckoning five werfts to a league, and which give you thediftance between Mo/cow and Veronis,and the neighbouring places ; and,I believe,the number of the fmall trees I have mentioned may amount to about 200,000; a contrivance fo much the more ufeful, as withour thefe pofts and trees it would be next to impoflible to keep the road for the fnows on the ground, befides that you may by this means travel as well by 57 58 Th TRAVELS of 1703. by night as by day. In two hours Wy we came to Sgelina, and there changed horfes to go to Oeljamina, where we arrived about eight of the clock; and here we got out at a Ka- bak belonging to his Majefty, a pret- ty good wooden building with feve- ral apartments in it. You there go up by a fine favare of five fteps with five angles, and were entertained with beer and good fires, the Czar him- felf being expected, who has caufed thefe houfes to be erected every twen- ty werfts for the convenience of tra- vellers: Here we ftay’d but two hours, and went our way in a very damp night. Horfes were every where ready for us, and there was fire in all the villages, where the peafants ftood at their doors with truffles of ftraw lighted to fhew their joy for his Majefty’s arrival, which in the night time had a very pretty effect. We had 30 werfts to travel from hence to Kolomna, where we had got before day, and there wait- ed for his Majefty, who came about nine in the morning, while I was gone to take a view of the infide and Siiuarion OUtfide of the town. I went out by of Kolom- the gate of the Pjaetnietske, or of na. the Friday, or of the fifth day of the week, and went to that of Coff, which are the only gates here. This town is furrounded with a good : ftone wall, about fix fathom high 3 - and two thick, and flanked with fe- veral towers, fome round and fome {quare, about 200 paces diftant from each other, but not adapted for can- non. It is about a mile and half round, and the little river of Kolom- menske, whofe name it borrows pat{- fes by it. I fhould here have fpoken of the river of Mofcow, but as we crofied it afterwards by water, I fhall defer icto another time, while I go on with the defcription of this city. The wall is almoft all fallen gy down on one fide, and you muft go over a pretty high hill to get at the hinder gate, where the land lies low beyond the river; and there is a fuburb at the other gate, where they expofe their goods to fale, and by this gate 1 faw a great number of ea \ the country people come in with 1703. things to fellinthe town. The form &"W4 of it is almoft round, and there is a dry ditch on the higheft fide, where there is alfo a very high wall. Its fineft building is the church of U/- plenja, or of the feparation of the mother of God, well built of ftone, and indifferently large; whereto we may add the archiepifcopal palace ; the reft is ordinary enough. Havy- ing fatisfied my curiofity, | went to the Governor’s houfe, [van Davide- witz, where I found the Czar and all the company at table. When I had got up to this Prince to pay my duty to him, he turned about and kiffed me, and when I had given him an account of what I had done, he made me fit down, At two in the afternoon we proceeded on our journey, being to go to the country © houfe of Mr. Alexander Wafielewitz Koecken, five werlls from this city. There we were well entertained. Ic is a wooden building of two ftories, with fine rooms. We ftaid there till five of the clock, and about nine in the morning we arrived at the little lake of Zvan, near the village of Litt dake i of Ivan. Ivanofra, 130 werfts from the:houfe of Mr. Koecken. ‘The Don or the Tanais rifes in this lake, from whence it flows in a long canal, whofe water is very clear and well tafted, as the Czar himfelf thought, and the reft of the company; tho’ the lake,which might.be better called a pool, is very marfhy. One half of its water goes one way, and the reft another, a very remarkable circumftance. Here it was that his Czarian Majefty in the year 1702, began to dig a canal to open a communication between the Don and the Baltic. The Czar fur- veyed the whole ground then in per- fon, as he did now again with us, 7 Dom a . . 0, This canal which is very deep de- f tives its water from the Don or Ta- - nais, and is to crofs the lake [vaz, to the little river Schata, which falls ci,0/. into that of the Uga,and this into the Occa which falls into the Wolga; and by this means might be attained the end propofed of making a com- munication between this river and the 1703. the Baltsc fea. a eg NT cea ee ee Oe ee C y CORNELIUS LE UB RW YN. And it is to be ef- YN) fected by the contrivance of fluices Great chfeclofe fluices of grey ftone. fiuices. Turf made provinces. in thofe, paris. 8o paces in length, and 14 in breadth, under the direction of Prince Goga- rin, whofe worth and excellent en- dowments, as well as his zeal for his Czarian Majefty’s fervice is not to be exprefied. His Majefty had us car- ried in fledges upen thefe canals, having firft ordered the horfes to be fhod for ice, and fhewed us this work compleated and confifting of feven I there alfo faw a mud engine, made after the Dutch manner, with which, and the ice broke, the Prince got up earth proper to make turf, which they there order as they do in our There were feveral houfes full of it, which we tried and found to be very good. His Majefty having entertained us at noon, we went away about three of the clock to go 30 wrefts to a country-houfe belonging to Mr. /e Fort. As this village is not upon the high-road, three of our guides turn- ed to the right, inftead of follow- ing the company, and went to a houfe of his Majefty’s five werfts from thence. The night being come on I went in there with two French officers, and there we ftaid till ro at night expecting our com- panions, but perceiving noboby came near us we continued our journey through a defart, where we met with nothing but fome coppice, here and there. Upon the ¢hird at nine in the morning we arrived at Prince Alexander Danielewitz de Menfikof, 110 werfts from Mr. Fort’s, It is a great and a fine buil- ding like a houfe of pleafure, with a turret or lanthorn upon tt, covered with. a detached roof, and neatly painted on the outfide with all forts of colours; this houfe contains ma- ny fine and good rooms and lofty enough ; nor is there any way to it but by the gate of the fort, they being both within one common en- ceint of earth, of no very great ex- tent. Here are feveral fine works well mounted with cannon, and co- vered on the one fide with a hill, and on the other by a fen, or kind. 1703. ofilake. I chad no fooner got. into WW ‘the Czar’s prefence than he asked ‘me where I had been? J anfwered where it had pleafed Heaven and our guides, fecing I knew nothing either. of the way or the language. This -he laughed at and told the Ruffian Lords that were with him. He then gaveme a bumper by way of -punifhment, regaled us to perfecti- on,and had the cannon fired at every health. When we had done he car- ried us upon the ramparts, and there treated us with different liquors up- on each work. Then he: ordered fledges to be ready to carry us upon the lake, then frozen over, that we might thence take a view of the whole at leifure; and he took me into his own fledge, ftill mindful of the liquor which followed us eve- ry where at the heels in great plen- ty; and from thence we returned to the caftle, where the glafles began to dance about again, and to warm us till at laft the place having never as yet been named, his Majefty cal- led it Oranjenburg. Prince Alexan- Oranjen- der’s village, which is on one fide, bu"s is called S/aboolke. Fron this agree- able place we went at nine in the night. Upon the fourth we went a great way, but afterwards we tra- velled at a much lefs rate, becaufe of the little fnow upon the ground. The Czar, however, did not ftop till we had reached Stepena, where they had built ten fhips. We held on our way in the night, and upon the fifth, at one in the morning, we arrived at Veronis, which is: 190 werfts from the new Oramenburg. The company being divided in the night, we dropped in one after ano- ther, the ‘firft that appeared at the place being young Mr. /e Fort and my felf, and as there had been no regulation made as to the article of lodging, we went directly to the ~ houfe of Vice-Admiral Rees. We. were told he had kept his bed for three weeks paft, for a hurt he had received by a fall; and as foon as it was light we waited on him with afflurances of the fhare we had in his 60 | The TRAVELS of 1703. his istontaie ; he received us very drink, and Monfieur, the Envoy 1703. tA kindly, and defired us to be quite Konig fegg,who had the charge of the “WW Situation _ of Veronis free with his houfe and table. The Czar himfelf arrived at one in the afternoon, under the difcharge of the cannon in the caftle and in the fhips that were frozen up; and in an inftant afterwards he came to fee the Vice-Admiral. He thence went to Mr. Fewdor Mafhewitz Apraxin’s a Lord of the Admiralty, who com- manded in the place. We had or- ders to follow him, and were well entertained, in the midft of the noife of the artillery, fifty cannon being from time to time fired off, and fo the day was brought to an end. In the mean time orders were given for rooms to be ready inthe caftle, for the ftrangers, that they fhould be made much of, and have whatever victuals they had a mind to; nor was there any forgetfulnefs as to table, accquitted himfelf very hand- fomely. The Sieurs Stee/, Kinfius and Hill lodged at a friend’s, and Mr. Je Fort and I at the Vice-Ad- miral’s; going every now and then to eat at the caftle. His Majefty was at a private houfe upon the key with the Ruffans. Upon the /ixth we went to fee the fhips, and tip- pled with great gaiety. Fewdor Maf- hewitz treated us at noon, and the next day; and fo ended our feaftings, the great faft of the Ru/fians begin- ning upon the eighth. Upon the ninth, 1 follicited the Czar for leave to draw what was moft worthy of notice, and he immediately gave it me, faying, Come, we have lived well, and been merry, and have had a little reft after it, it 1s now high time to think of work. LLL PI: SIT SIO EI, EE C HAP... XI Defcription of Veronis. The Don or the Tanais. Return to Mofcow. His Majefty departs for Sleutelenburg. HE City of Veronis is upon i ie a high hill in 52 degrees and a half of northern latitude; furround- ed with a wooden wall, all rotten, and divided into three parts, in one of which called ‘fakatof, the chief of the Ruffian merchants have their abode. There is a great rope-walk in this city, and the powder is kept in fubterraneous magazines without the wall. Upon the fide of the hill, along the river, there are feve- ral houfes, in an extent of 400 paces; the chief of them belong to the Ad- miral Golowin, Mr. Apraxin of the admiralty, the Boyard Lofkrielowitz, Prince Danielowitz, and other Ru/- fians of quality. Moft of thefe houfes are over againft the citadel, and thofe of the Vice-Admiral and other officers on the fide of them, and behind thefe are ftreets for thofe oe 2 employed in fhip-building and the like. This city ftands on the wef of the river of Veronis, whofe name it borrows, and the citadel is on the ZeCitadk: other fide, to which there is a large bridge of communication. The ditches about it are full of water from the old river. This citadel is a {quare building with towers at the four corners, has very large apart- ments, and makes a great figure from. without. The fands of the downs fo choak up the new river that it is not navigable, and the fhips are obliged to go through the old one. The citadel is the chief magazine, and indeed they fo term it, and have above 150 pieces of canon in it, though moft of them without carriages for the more ready tranfporting them in cafe of need. Again, this citadel is defended with pallifades Ey NBS a) ESR Nir oar aL) ORES SN o Stik ete Ginaaets ESN Ay y nm Lh = ae Se Ss TYE, aS Baa" 5 See SS sages = = ~ teres 5 iw Ss es a : me xo e SSS SS SSR “a = < = > CSS Sree see SE VERONIS. WE = PRUE 4, SS a NT ee = SE = SSS —— Saas pn reset SSS TIN ae Ses Fee ee Se oe ——— ——— SS a = = SSS Se — Se SSS OCR: Se ee ee a ‘igh : V CANARD Wate 4 Syrah enrnatiger a 5 give: RRC Fs CO RNB EU Sree BRU Y 61 hill, drawn thither by the novelty 1703. ; 1703. pallifades in feveral places, and filled of the fight, unable to conceive what ~V~) UV™ witha pretty good garrifon,as well as Docks for Soipping. the country about, to withftand the Tartars. ‘The conveniences for fhip- building are one fide of the citadel, whereas before they built them all about. The ftorehoufe is on the o- ther fide, a great building, three fto- ries high, the two firft of which are of ftone, and the third and upper- moft of wood. Here are many pla- ces full of all forts of naval ftores, each in a place apart, even to cloaths for the feamen, and every thing elfe they can want. The fail houfe or loft is on one fide of this ftorehoufe ; Number of and they compute that in the town - gnhabitants in the town and about It, there may be ten thou- and abut {and perfons. ate You fee two or three villages in the plain. Upon the fenth, I went in queft of a proper ftand, from whence to take a {ketch of the city; and I pitch- ed upon the higheft part of a hill, which is but two wertts to the fouth- weftward of it; there I began my work, but could not go on with it for the bitternefs of the cold and ftrength of the wind. The next day I walked thither to get myfelf a lit- tle heat by the way, with nobody but my fervant, and three men be- longing to the Vice-admiral, to keep off {uch Ruffians as might have the curiofity to interrupt me. I ordered them to get a mat, fome poles, an ax, and a f{pade, to dig a pit for me, where I might conveniently take my ftand. When this was done, I {fcreened myfelf from the wind in my back with the mat; and in this plight it was eafy to fee me from the town and from the river fide. And indeed I was not here long without a difcovery; two Engli/b fhipwrights taking notice of me from the river, fent two or three of their people to know what I wasabout. Seeing them come towards me, I ordered my fea- men, who were armed with half- pikes, to keep them off; to tell no foul what I was about, and if they were asked the queftion, to fay they knew nothing at all of the matter. In the mean time a number of above 50 Rufians got together upon the Vou. I fhould be the meaning of it; but my people driving them back, they did not dare to come near enough to me. When I returned to the town, the Vice-admiral told me the vogue had been, that, upon the top of the hill, one of the Czar’s domeftics had been buried alive, nobody knowing where- fore, or who it was; and that the faid man buried up to the middle held a great book in his hand,which was the paper I was drawing upon; and that no one was allowed to ap- proach him, three centinels being ap~ pointed to keep off all that attempt- ed it; nay even the officers thems felves enquired of each other, who it was that was under the circum- {tances of execution. But obferving, upon the ¢we/fth, that the criminal had fhifted his place, and confe- quently that they were miftaken, they took another whim into their heads. There was a little farther off an old burying ground, where they had feen me fome days before, and where I went that day to take a draught of it. The Ru/fans at their wits end, now fancied I might be fome prophet from beyond fea to vifit the old burying grounds, fay mafies for the dead, and perform o- ther religious offices, and particular- ly as I always appeared with a book inmy hand. ‘They took notice to one another that I had commonly a Hungarian veft on, and that I was attended by a fervant, who carried after me a kind of blue cloak; in fhort that I had three of the Vice-admiral’s people fet to guard me. This whim, extravagant as it was, might have been attended with ill effeéts, had not the Czar himfelf been in thefe parts, and been a check upon the crowds that would other- wife have gathered together. You have a reprefentation of the Reprejn- town in number 15. the letter tation of diftinguifhes his Majefty’s place of” refidence; B the place where the fhips are built; C the dWoritz or the citadel; D the Ambaet or the ftore-houfe; E the fail-houfe or R 2 loft ; 62 The 41 R A 1703. loft; F the houfe of Prince Alexan- ww der Danielowitz ; G that of Feudor Ships. Maf bewitz ; H Ufplenje Dogeroditza, orthe church of the conception of the mother of God; JI Cu/ma Idemjan, or church dedicated to Co/mus and Damian, brethren, in the lift of Saints; K Saboor, or the church of the aflembly of the Saints; L Pe- tritea Bogoroditza, or the Friday church, fo called; becaufe there the Virgin Mary appeared in an extra- ordinary manner upon a certain Fri- day, and was judged thence to have required it to be fet apart in honour of that day of the week; M7 the old ri- ver; IN the new river; O the hill from whence I drew the profpeé& of the town. The old tombs, men- tioned before, feeming to me very extraordinary in their kind, I drew thenvas well as the ground they ftand m1. ‘They are upon a hill which has fuffered by the injuries of time; this hill is by icfelf, and from the top to the bottom fcattered over with fkulls and bones, and pieces of coffins, ‘There are two at the top, the one a little damaged, the other to pieces. I ordered a Rufian to climb this hill, which has two trees upon it, to try if he could not get fome bones which appeared upon the furface, and which had been blanched by the air, to the whitenefs of chalk, which had a pretty odd effe& in that black foil; but the earth was fo frozen he could not bring them with him. You have all this reprefented in num- ber 16¢ what lyes before this bury- ing ground was formerly a part of it, and the way ‘to it on this fide the ri- ver, is béneath this hill on the left hand, and on the right you have Szefofskie-in the bottom near the ri- ver, with fome mills. With regard to the fhips here, we faw fifteen in the water, four men of war, the biggeft of 54 guns, three vidtual- lers, two firefhips, and fix bomb- ketches. On fhore and ready to be Jaunched, were five men of war, after the Dutch fathion, from 60 to to 64 guns, two after the Ftalian from fo to f4, a galeafs after the Venetian, and four gallies, befides Pe ee re ey ree ee Ne VELS of 17 gallies at Siefifskie, two werlts 1703. Refides all this, “Ww from the town, they were at work upon five men of war after the Exglifh built, two bor- ed for 74 guns, and two for 60 or 64; the fifth which is called after his Majefty, becaufe he had the di- rection of her upon the ftocks, is bored for 86 guns.. They ‘were at work alfo upon a packet-boat, and ° afhore on ‘the other fide of the river, were about 200° brigantines, moft of them built at Veronis ; and at this time there were 400 ftout brigan- tines upon the Nieper, and the Bory- Aibenes, in the neighbourhood of Crim Lartary, and 300 flat bottom vef- fels upon the Volga; befides 18 men of war at Afoph, a bomb-veflel and a yacht. The Czar has feveral o- ther fhips, the largeft of which is of 66 guns, four from 48 to so, five of 36, two of 34, and others fmaller; the leaft of 28 guns. That day the Czar took the diver- fion of failing upon the ice, in a le- vel place fit for the purpofe. Upon the ¢hirteenth at night they fired a | fcore of bombs from two veffels, and feveral from a pinnace or galley of 20 oars; when I returned the Vice- Admiral told me the Czar had fent a meflage to me. I went imme- diately on board the fhip where he was, and faw feveral bombs fired off in my way: I found his Majefty at his liquor, and underftood he was - the next day, being the fourteenth, to go with all his train to the Don or Tanais, about 12 werfts from Ve- ronis,to take a furvey of the fhipping there. | and the reft in waggons or coaches,and when we had gota little way from the town, his Majefty ftopped at a {mall church, and we went a little afide to fee a mill of an extraordinary con- trivance by aCircaffian, and of an ordinary ottogon form. Within ic are four”? mills which work together, without fails or ought elfe for the wind to take hold on. outwardly; but within there are feven fails, like thofe of a vefiel, and fhut up without by great windows or doors ; when there is. wind We fet out at three in the Fourney 0 afternoon, moft of us on horfeback, @¢Tanais. ROE bs ms Ney Fey man Said, y de dima rhachis hn sans sntian Marne pt ens td fe elite ee a ee PE Ne ae a Pe Rey a ent Soe ieee Rage 3 aes, ny Naty % 5, TRE PENS ES 2 ale Seti wien watts : 2 wt a : oon decane i ~ i 5 s , t £ a 3 4 j g t ro £ Pt cpm a Resta ERED Re acre pees a en ee eee eT ee ce eo 2 Lf ei Lifes fe Ye V7) YW MovuLIN SINGULIER. = ag EE Bi ns RI As so tah wo > rcs pK ijn ill CORN RLS RR UY 4 BS 1703. wind ftirring they open two of three UV™~J of the windows on the fide next to it, fo that rufhing upon the fails, it fets the machine a going with great violence. You have this reprefented in number 17. The Czar came up with us in a calafh, and defired us to mend our pace, which every body was not able Arrival ast 10; but we got to our journey’s zheTanais.end before it was night. ‘There was a general difcharge of guns imme- diately from the fhips, and we went to fee fome of them where they made us drink moft heartily; and at night we were entertained at the houfe of Ivan Alexewitz Moefin Poes- kin. Supper over feveral of the _ company retired to the fhips for lodging which was not to be had on _ fhore ; for they have not as yet be- gun to build in this place, tho’ they talk of a town intended to be here. The next day we went to fee the works they were about in order to ftop the courfe of the Don, and turn it ano- ther way; to which purpofe they had afluice, on the fide they defign- ed it fhould run: This river called TLanais, and by the inhabitants Do- netz, is famous in Rufia; it crofles Courfe og the Precopian or Little Tartary to the the Don. eaftward, and having. winded for a great way, it takes a vaft {weep to- wards the Volga; and having been {welled by feveral fmaller tivers, falls, by Ajoph, formerly Tanais, into the lake Mcotzs, or fea of Zabaskey,where it divides Europe from Afia. In thefe parts, we to our great furprife found es feveral elephant’s*teeth upon the rerh, ground, one of which I keep as a curiofity, but cannot conceive how they fhould happen to be there. Ie is true indeed, ‘the Czar told us that Alexander the Great having ‘crofled «this river, as we read in hiftorians, came as far as the little town of Koftinke, but eight werfts from thence, and that poffibly it might have been that fome of his elephants died there, and that thefe teeth might be the re- mains of them. We then returned to the fleet, Return to the joins, Where they made very ‘much of us. Here were in all eleven men of war and victuallers, One of thefe fhips 1704; was built under his Majefty’s direc- ~W™ tions, and outfhone the reft with all forts of ornaments, and the Captain’s cabbin was lined with walnut-tree 5 tho’ there was another along-fide of this of great beauty alfo, and buile by an Englifbmans but the reft madé no great matter of fhow. We weré entertained with fifh at noon, and then returned to the fhips where we drank deep to the roar of the cannon. In the midft of thefe caroufals, a4 snlucky Ruffian feaman was fool enough to“ put his hand to the mouth of a gun; and was fo hurt thereby that he fell from the top to the bottom, and by the fall, it is likely, broke fome of his ribs. ‘They endeavoured to keep this from the Czar; but he coming to the knowledge of it, went to fee the poor wretch, and found him drawing towards his laft. We broke up about ezght in the evening, and at em got toVeronis, in the midft of rain. Upon the /x- teenth, having obtained the Czar’s leave for that purpofe, I prepared to return to Mofcow with my three friends; but the rains having made the roads very bad, we were obliged to get eight waggons, and to arm the wheels with iron. Upon the /- venteentb, in the morning, we took es re our leave of his Majefty, who gave ver cos us his hand to kifs, and then em- a: Vero- bracing us, wifhed us a good jour-™* ney; and recommended it to us to take a fight of fome mortars, upon the river fide, about two werfts from the town, which we did without making any ftay there. They were againft a hill, near a barn, where they had been caft. About noon 1 had orders to repair once more to the Czar, who was taking the diverfion of failing upon the ice ; his veffel was overfet in taking of a fhort turn, but fhe was foon fet upright again. About halfan hour afterwards he ore dered me to follow him alone. He got into a hired fledge with two hor- fes, one of which fell intoa hole, but the other ftanding firm upon the ice, he was foon got out again; he made me fit by him, faying, Come /et us go to 64. Th TRAVELS of 1703. to the fhallop, I will have you fee a markable, and quite different from 1703. wv bomb fired off, becaufe you was not the Ruffian, and efpecially with re-'~-~4 there when the laft were fired. Being arrived, we examined the veffel, and the wooden bed where the mortar was fixed, and which you might turn to alldirections. ‘The bombar- deer being ready, the fignal was gi- ven for thofe in the plain to get out of the way. We then went out of the veffel,and fire was fet to the fufee, but the bomb burfted in the flight. This being a kind of difappointment, his Majefty was fo good as to ask me if I would fee any more, but I told him it was needlefs.. I then waited on him to Mr. S/ezts, and foon after to his own abode, which was not far off, and there I had the honour to take leave of him: He embraced me, and as his ufual way was, faid, God preferve you. It was about three in the after- noon when I returned to my lodging, whence I made all the hafte I could to depart, after a fhort meal. I gard to the women. Their com- mon drefs is a fhift with a girdle, round which they plait a piece of ftriped ftuff, which hangs down to their feet like a petticoat. They wear a white linen cloth wound round the head, and a part of their chin is covered; one end of this cloth is genteely turned up on one fide of the head, and the reft are fometimes loofe or hang down. ‘They wear alfoa piece of linen in gathers upon the forehead, which goes over the head, and is flat behind after the manner of the 4rabs and ews in the eaft. Their fhiftis gathered two fingers breadth about the neck, as formerly with us when they wore ruffs ; but you will beft comprehend this by the plate beneath, which I drew in fmall from one of the moft agreeable of thefe women,and juft as we found her in her ftove. Near was a maid-fervant kneading of dough for a thanked the Vice-admiral for the ho- bread, and fome children fitting after aq nour he had done me, and forall their manneruponthe oven. It was his favors, and to my great joy, left three in the afternoon when we left him in a better way thanIfoundhim. this place, in mizzling weather with He isa very worthy man, much e- ‘ome fnow; but an hour afterwards fteemed by every body,but by nobody it came on to blow from the nor- a Pa * more than by the Czar himéelf. pe We departed in the evening, and Jo wr chat night we had fnow, and after it fome rain. \Upon the eighteenth in the morning we were 58 werfts from Veronis, having three horfes to each waggon, which carried us back the fame way we came. We took notice that moft of the Kabacs, or Czar’s houfes towards Veronis, are inhabited by Circaffians. Manvers¢’'Thefe are a neat and cleanly people cafians. both in their perfons and in their houfes ; they are of a pleafant hu- mour, and live agreeably, diverting themfelves every day with the vio- lin, and another ftringed inftrument. You have thefe minftrels in all his Majefty's houfes to that of Prince Alexander; they never fail to play as foon as you come in, and they com- . monly fell you mead or brandy, and among them are women who are kind to ftrangers. ‘Their drefs is re- 3 thern board, and began to freeze. When we had travelled 15 werfts, we came to a {mall river, partly fro- zen over, but too deep to ford, which we fought to do for two hours, to no purpofe. In fhort we fent two of our fervants over on horfeback, and a third to a village to enquire if there was not fome place where we might crofs; but he brought us word there was none, and did not dare to crofs the water a fecond time, fo that we fent him back to the village whence he came, with orders there to wait for us till morning. Mean vines time we had no news of one of our cid. fervants who had got drunk the day before, and whom we had thrown into a countryman’s fledge; and as in this cafe our people were in dan- ger of freezing, we crowded our waggons. together to fhelter them, while we confulted what we had beft to do, It was nine in the nighr, 3 and FEMME CIRCASSIEN. SS A eae Ane and we were ftill quite at a lofs, till, at length, confidering there were no houfes in this part of the coun- try, we refolved to go back again, in queft of a village out of the main road, where we arrived at eleven in the night, and got fome refrefhment for ourfelves and our horfes, The fervant we had loft came here to us that night, and told us his driver had taken the horfes out of the fledge while he was afleep, and carried them away, that he perceived no- thing of the matter till he awoke, and that he had been obliged to look out for another, which he had done in vain, had it not been for the prevalence of money and good words; and to conclude, that it was with great difficulty that he had Vou. IL. got to us. The next day I difco- vered, that by the negligence of our people, the axle-tree of my waggon was broken, in confideration of which, as well as of the froft, and of the {now that had fallen in the night, I refolved to fix it upon the bottom of a fledge, and to take the wheels with me, in cafe a change of weather fhould happen. For the reft, one of our drivers had given us the flip, a thing not unufual in this country, and had left us his horfes, in hope, his companions would bring them back with their own; fo that we were obliged to take another in his ftead. We took three, with fledges and horfes, and provided ourfelves with plank and timber to help us in croffing the river. The fun fhone S out » ie ae a = ween, Ue —e. ee % & ao RN RRR RIA OE & H i 1703. out, but it was exceflively cold, and Jaden, fell through the ice, but was 1703. Wy about ten o’clock, we came back to got out again without damage done “VW the place where we had endeavour- ed to crofs the evening before, and found the river fo frozen, that fe- veral horfes went over upon the Ice, tho’ indeed fome of them fell in. We took our horfes out, that our waggons might crofs the fafer, and. we made ufe of our boards and-tim- bers in the deepeft places, and yet fome of our people fell in; but as every body was ready to lend a help- ing hand, they were foon got out again, At one in the afternoon we went on,and in an hour’s time came to a place where we found frefh horfes ready to put to. We had now, in all, travelled but 28 wertts, and had two more to go, before we got to a {mall town called Romanof, where we croffed the river of Belle _ Kolodis or the White Pit, by a bridge cover’d over a foot and a half thick with ice, and dined to the found of the Circefians inftruments. It was eleven in the night before we could get away from hence, for before then we had not been able to pre- vail with the Governor for horfes. Here they took the wheels off from the other waggons, and loaded them upon fledges as I had done, and in the to any thing in it, In fhort, after we had again skirted ic along fome villages, we reached the houfe of Prince Alexander, 190 werfts from Veronis; but here we made no ftay, and went on to a village not far off, and there we dined. It was fix in the evening, and we waited tll ten before our horfes were ready. Upon the 21ft, at four of the clock we were at 218 werfts, foon after at 238,and then 257 werits, whence, on the right, we faw the town of Schoppin, which feems confiderably gopoppin. large, and fome villages between that and us; and as our poftwodens reach- ed no farther, we went thither, and crofled over a bridge a werft in length, and over a great moor. This town, however, is in itfelf no great matter, and the caftle where the Go- vernor refides, and which ftands at the end of the high ftreer, has no- thing remarkable either within fide or without. They immediately ap- pointed accommodations for us, and the burgomafters came to us on the part of the Governor, and brought us refrefhments of brandy, mead, beer; bread, and the like. Here we made a demand of 30 horfes, inftead Ja night we went thro’ a great village of 24, the better to carry our called Stoeduncke; and upon the twen- wheels with us, and this being gran- tieth, at break of day, we came to ted us, we departed hence an hour the pillar of 136 werfts, where we before funfer, and that night travel- 7 took frefh horfes without ftopping. Two werlts from thence, we patled the town of Dodrz, a werit from the great road, upon the river Veronrs, At the end of 151 werfts we came to a great village, and another at the end of 154, where you go up a-hill fo very fteep, that there are. rails on the left hand from top to bottom, to prevent your falling. We after- wards went through three villages, upon the poft of the laft of which we faw 157 werfts. Soon after we found the high road fo full of ice, it was impoflible to keep it, fo that we looked for a better ‘way on the right hand, and fucceeded, fo that we all got thro’, except one waggon, which being very heavily led 40 werfts, then changing horfes we reached 311 werfts, and came near the houfe of Mr. /e Forz,, where we arrived upon the ¢wenty fecond, at nine inthe morning. This gen- tleman had written to his fervants, _ofdering them to ufe us the-beft they could, and to let us have horfes, and every thing elfe we might want. Here we left our waggon-wheels be- hind us to be the lefs incumbered, and to rid the more way, with the fewer horfes, the froft and fnow having thuch mended the ways. Tere we had freth horfes, and having {top- ped about an hour, we proceeded on our journey, and got the length of 329. werfts, and at three in the afternoon we came to 347, and to the Governor’ s caftle. 170}. Nikole Saraiske the village of Podaffincke, where we cheered up the heart. It fnowed, and continued both to freeze and to blow, and having again changed horfes in the evening, we went thro’ feveral villages in the night, and thro’ the town of Nzkole Saraiske, a place tolerable enough; but it was hot without difficulty we got thro’ it, becaufe of the great number of country people who had crowded it with their fledges laden with things for Mofcow. Upon the twenty third in the morning, having got to the end of 420 werfts, we held on our way, with frefh horfes, to Grodno, where we got at nine o’Clock, but made no ftay, and feven or eight werfts from thence we met with the river of Occa, which we were fome time in croffing. We had then to go over a very fteep and lofty hill, where there was but one narrow gut on the left hand of the river; and as we were going up we met with fome fledges, who obliged us to flop that they might get by, ioe CORNEEDLUS Be BR Yo Rufians about him were at him with 1 their Threats; but he, like a pru-' dent man as he was, made figns to his fervant to get out of the way, and began to footh them with fair {peeches, judging, and with good rea- fon, that a contrary procedure might prove fatal, obferving there was be- neath us a great number of Ru/fans who would have infallibly fallen up- on us, on the very firft onfet. And thefe obferving we came up to them without any feeming Difpofition to quarrel, kept back thofe that were drunk, and fubmitted to reafon. The moft troublefome of them being gone off, we went our way on each fide, tho’, for my own part, I would not go again into my fledge ull we had gained the height of the hill, tho’ I had much ado to walk, it was fo flippery, and the wind fo {trong ; befides that it was fo excee- dingly cold I could hardly ftir my fingers. In the midft of this! took notice of a fledge and one horfe go- ing down without a driver, tho’ hea- 267 vily laden; the poor horfe, unable i to turn a corner fo nicely as he fal! of an which they could only do upon the very brow of the hill, the way being borfe. Great dan- Ltt. too narrow for them and for us too, and the way they took was fo bad, fo fleep, and fo full of great ftones, that both horfes and fledges were in great danger, moft of the horfes go- ing on at a venture without drivers ; and not only fo, but words arifing between thefe fledgemen and our fervants, they came to blows, the caufe alledged, that the one had not made room timely enough for the other. Several of thefe people being in liquor, exafperated thofe who had already got down below, and made them come up after us, to the num- ber of about twenty. I was lying along in my fledge when I under- ftood this, and leaped out immediate- ly with Sword and Piftol in hand, and the Sieurs Kzz/ins and Hill came after, armed alfo, the one with his piftols, the other with his fword. in this pofture we went down to Mr. Steel’s fledge, who was the laft of us, and moft expofed to the fury of thefe madmen. He had but juft got out, but had no arms, and the fhould, for the wind and the ice; in fhort, unable to keep the beaten track, and borrowing too much up- on the precipice, -he fell perpendi- cular down upon the bank of the ri- ver, a fight dreadful to behold. ‘The fledge broke into a thoufand pieces, and the horfe it is moft likely broke all his ribs, tho’ I afterward faw him lift up his head. At length, having with difficulty reached the top of the hill, we went on, and at one in the afternoon came to the city of Kolomna, 456 werfts. We waited in the fuburbs for an anfwer to a let- ter of the Czar’s, which we fent in,-and the Diack or Secretary of the city no fooner received it, than he came to us, and offered us his fervice, and even defired us to go into the city to entertain ourfelves; but we excuféd ourfelves, and he fent us mead, brandy, beer, and fome provifions, which we returned back again, having fufficiently provided ourfelves with zeceffaries. We talked with him about two hours, and drank y? fome- | i it | oo a nas Rt : ica? a The TRA 1793. fomewhat briskly about, and at fout AR we departed with frefh horfes, and travelled 25 werfts before nine to the village of Kofachof, where we baited two or three hours, for the fake of our horfes, who were to car- ry us quite to Mo/cow. Upon the twenty fourth by eight in the morn- ing, we had got near the village of Ojtraweets in 46 werfts farther. We here refted and fed our horfes, and in two hours went away, and about noon atrived in the German flabode at Mofcow, in 25 werfts ftill far- ther. An afaje Upon thetwenty feventh, the {chool- nation. mafter and reader of the Lutheran Church called obu Frederick Maes of Koningsberg, was without any pro- vocation murdered by a German En- fign, called Krafo, who being taken confefled the fact. The autor 1 thought to have refted me af- indipefed. ter fo fatiguing a journey, but upon the fifth of March, towards the even- ing, I was taken with an extraordi- nary heat of body, like a fever, and going immediately to bed, had a ve- ry troublefome night of it. I rofe - up, however, at break of day next morning, but was fo weak, I could hardly ftand upon iny legs, and had befides a continual cough day and night. The fire within me was fo fierce, that had I drank an hundred times a day, it could not have been ex- tinguifhed. Sometimes I drank milk, fometimes I drank beer, and fome- times water boiled up with tamarinds and fugar, which | found relief from in Egypt; and to keep my ftomach in fome degree of ftrength, I drank alfo of rhenith wine, and other things good for that end. In this manner did I pafs five days and five nights without any reft, and in the night particularly was apt to be fomewhat delirious. My friends, upon this, ob- ferving me to grow weaker and wea- He is bis ker, advifed me to fend for a phy- own phyi- fician, but I told them I was always “a my own phyfician, that I knew my conftitution better than any body, and confequently what was beft for me; that I was perfuaded, as I knew the caufe of my ficknefs, a good Z Vv Eu ® af regimen would do me more good 1703. than all the phyficians in the world; befides that, I had been for fome time fenfible of what was coming upon me. Upon the fixth night and that following I refted indifferently well, and found myfelf greatly relieved; in fhort, after a continual regimen for ten days together, I began to take in ftronger broths, and eat meat. I bled alfo a little at the nofe at night, and that eafed my head. Upon the eleventh, the Czar re- turned, with all his train, from Ve- ronis, and upon the ¢hirteenth he caufed Colonel Bodon, already men- Colonot Bo- tion’d, to be beheaded in his pre- ‘on fence. He wasexecuted in the Ger Kratte man flabode, on one fide of the poft, 4anged. on. which the {word and ax had been hung up, and Enfign Kraffo was ac the fame time hanged; he then fix- ed up an order, that no one fhould prefume to draw a {word, upon pain of death. Upon Sunday, the fourteenth of the Te Envoy month, Monfieur Cafmir Bolus, En- see voy from France, who had been ax audi- fome time incognito at Mofcow, had ef +#« a private audience of the Czar at~ Count Feudor Alexewitz de Golowin's. . This Prince, the fame day, went 7% Czar with a {mall attendance to fee Mr. Aedes . Brants, where he was entertained with cold meats and fome other re- frefhments. I came out of my room upon this occafion, to have the ho- nour of taking leave of his Maje- fty, and to beg he would grant me a paflport to go out of his domi- nions. Obferving me to be much altered, he was fo good as to ask me what was the matter with me, and what had been the caufe of my illnefs ; and upon my telling him I attributed it to fome excefles on my journey from Veronis, he anfwered, nothing in the world was fo good as a hair of the fame dog; but the Re- fident and fome others coming in upon us, we were interrupted. Having obtain’d the leave I want- Te author ed, and an order to count Golowin for tai ave a pafiport, I took leave of the Czar, Ai who did me the honour to give me his hand to kifs, and then beftow- 2 tee CORN EXL fUS tLe BR U YOR, 1703. ed on me his blefling, God preferve WW you. Malefa- ors pu- nifbed. It was about ten when this Prince went away to Mr. Lugs, and to fe- veral Engli/h Merchants, before he fat out for Sleutelenburg; and upon the fifteenth, early in the morning he fat out, without fo much as going to Probrofensko. Upon that day they were to exe- cute the two other criminals, Cap- tain Sax, and the fervant of Colo- nel Bodon, whofe head and body lay {till upon the ground, as Kraffo hung upon the gibbet, guarded by fome foldiers, They were both up- on the block, and the executioner ftood by with the ax in his hand, ready to give the fatal blow, when they were at once reprieved, the Captain to be fent a perpetual Exile into Szberia, and the fervant to re- ceive thirty ftrokes of the knoet, and then be a flave in the gallies for Se es life; but I a little while afterwards 61.703. heard he died of the knoet. | Our Refident having demanded a paflport for me, in the name of his Majefty, Count Golowin, whofe bu- finefs it was, ordered it to be im- mediately difpatched. Upon the ¢wenty firft they cele- brated Palm-Sunday; upon the fwen- ty fifth, the Annunciation of the blef= fed Virgin Mary, in high reverence with the Rufians, and upon the twenty eighth,the featt of Laffer. No- thing elfe remarkable occurr’d, ex- cept that a fire broke out at Mofcow, upon the ¢hzrtietb, and that the ri- ver of Moska thawed, and was open upon the firft of April. So thorough a thaw made the ways very bad, and upon the ¢hird the waters were rifen higher than had been known in the memory ofman. Atthis time I was taken with a tertian ague, but after three or four fits it left me. CE 7e ea The Author 1s fhown every Thing remarkable in the Churches. Cloth that waftes not in the Fire. HEN I was recovered of my ague, I went to Mofcow, to wait on Ivan Alexewitz Moefin Poes- kin, whom the Czar had ordered, at Verowis, to fhew me every thing that deferved to be feen in the churches, and other places of this city. This Nobleman, whom I have elfewhere mentioned, favoured me with a very civil reception, and told me he was ready to obey his Majefty’s orders, whenever I required it: I told him it fhould be as foon as he pleafed, be- caufe, as his Excellence knew, I was on the point of fetting out for Perfia. Upon this he appointed me to be with him at his houfe upon the tenth in the morning, which I took care to be, and found him ready to mount to go into the country; but he obligingly told me, the Gentle- bake eee Oo 7 man with him would take care to go with me every where. In the firft place we went to the church of Saboor, where they pretend to thew a picture by St. Luke, and Chrift’s garment upon which the foldiers caft lots. They fay this garment fell to fory a. the lot of a foldier, who happened 2Corip’s Larmeni. to be a Georgian, and that he carry- ing it into his own country, madea prefent of it to his fifter, who was a maiden ;that fhe conceiving a great ve- neration for it,defired upon her death- bed it might be buried with her, and that fhe might be covered with it; that this being done, there arofe a great tree from out of her tomb; that the Perfians afterwards poflefling themfelves of Georgia, the King heard of this tomb, ordered it to be open- ed, and took out the Garment,which fy he 69 : 2 3 ; aa 2 Ma a GaSe : 2 " sha cme ti able Sas oe). eee s ditties re a Aha pba ire aha =e cers 70 The TRA 1703. he carried away with him into Per- Uv™ fia; that fome time afterwards fend- The church ing an embafly to Mo/covy, he made a prefent of it to the Great Duke, as he was a Chriftian; that the Mujfco- vites defirous to be certain 1t was the very garment, got together all the blind, the lame, and others labour- ing under other afflitions, not doubt- ing, but if ic was, what it was faid to be, it would heal them ; that the effects proved equal to their wifhes; that it had ever fince been kept to be of ufe upon the fame occafions, and that it had never once failed to anfwer theend. All this they affirm for gofpel, and therefore I refolved it fhould be the firft thing I took no- tice of, This church is fquare within, and of Saboor. 96 foot in length, the vault is fuftain- Pidure by will have to be by St. Luke, is on St. Luke. ed by four great pillars, and the whole is full of pi€tures of Saints and the like. There are fome of them in the Greek tafte, not to be called bad, even in the five little domes, in form ‘of lanthorns, the largeft of which is in the middle, and the other four at the four corners. The picture they one fide of the high Altar, and is a half length of the Virgin, reprefent- ed with Chrift kiffing her, their faces being clofe together. It is very gloomy and almoft black; but whe- ther this proceeds from the effects of time, or the fmoke of the tapers, or the fancy of the painter; certain it is there is no great matter in it, be- fides that it is all gilt but the faces and the hands. This Virgin has a fine crown of pearls and precious {tones upon her head, and a collar of pearls which hangs down from about her neck. In fhort this pi- cure is placed in a nich, under which there is a ftall or feat. Between the two pillars of the high Altar, there is a great filver hanging fconce with branches, made at Am/terdam, like thofe in our churches ; and befides this, there are three of copper well difpofed of in the body of the church; tho’ ic muft be obferved there are few or no ornamentsin their churches, however it happens that there are VELS of ten filver lamps about the Altar of 1703. But in thefe lamps they burn ~V~ this. no oyl, which is notin ufe with the Rufnans, but tapers which are put into noffels fixed upon the lamps. To the bottom of their great fconces, they commonly hang an Oftrich’s egg. As we went out of this, we church of went into the Patriarch’s church, #¢ P2- triarchs. which is above {mall, and in form of adome. On the right hand over- againft the chappel there is an apart- ment, with Chrift reprefented fitting in a chair, in a piture all gilt except the face and hands; the Virgin Mary; St. ‘Fobn Baptif? on the left, and on each hand an Apoftle kneeling, with a filver lamp. Between this piece and the door of the chappel there is a bench, raifed upon fome fteps, and thereon the Patriarch’s feat covered with black velvet; and as you go in- to this little church, you fee an Al- tar, behind which is a {mall choir, full of pictures from top to bottom, each reprefenting ftories of Saints, divided from each other by columns in the manner of windows, and here every thing is gilt: the other fide of the walls is painted blue. Again in the crown of the dome there is a head of Chrift, which nearly fills ir, and about it feveral other reprefenta- tions. The Patriarch’s hall of audi- ence which is tolerably large, is over- againft this church; on the right as you go in you have the patriarchal chair all gilt, with a green velvet cufhion and gold fringes about the arms, and upon an eftrade of three fieps high; it has at top a fmall Chrift in painting. As we went out of this hall they carried us up toa room where they keep the treafures of moft of the Patriarchs, and full of chefts and trunks, which they open- © ed for me. In the firft were fix pa- triarchal caps, two of which were of great value, divided from the others, and enriched with great pearls, large diamonds and other precious ftones 5 the others were the fame, but not fo coftly. There was a feventh adorn- ed with pearls only, and belonging to the metropolitan; then they fhew’d a box full of jewels, and a- mong CORNELIUS &£ EB RU YR, 1703. mong the reft diamond crofles hang- “v™ ing by golden chains. All thefe things had belonged to feveral Patriarchs who had appeared in them upon proceffions, and up- on other fuch public occafions. There were alfo feveral pyjaffes or girdles with precious ftones; many of the combs that had been ufed by the former patriarchs, moft of them large and made of tortoifhell; their cro- fiers with jewels at the end; feveral preffles full of patriarchal robes and veftments, 79 in all, and all of gold brocade, and adorned with pearls and precious ftones. In the chief of them were nine veftments, of extreme mag- nificence and beauty, and all fet with precious ftones: in others were fine ftoles, a palm and a half broad, and- among the reft that worn by the Pa- triarch Conffantine in the year 6176, as the Ru/fans compute: it is of a plain filk, and has fuffered fomewhat by time; they have an extraordinary regard for it, and keep it among their moft magnificent veftments. In the fame place you fee feveral dithes of filver gilt, with great vafes, and o- ther veffels of the fame. Having fa- tisfied my curiofity in this place, I deferred till the next day, being Suz- day, to fee the reft of the churches. Firft 1 waited upon Mr. Moe/in Poe- skin to know of him if I could not havea fight of Chrift’s garment; but he told me it was impoffible, being in a place fealed up with the Czar’s own feal, and that without an ex- prefs order from him there was no fetting eyes on it; and forry I was I had not had fome intimation of this in time. In fhort, I went again to the church of Saésor to fee what there was ftill curious to be teen; and they fhewed me a great chalice or cup of gold, about two palms high, which they ufe in che admini- {tration of the facrament, crowned with four fine jewels, and the foot enamelled with the fufferings of the Saviour of the world: A great difh of the fame metal, enamelled like the chalice, and in like manner a- dorned with four jewels ; two plates, a fpoon with an agate handle, a gol- mt den ftirrer for the wine in the cup, 1703. and a crown all adorned with pearls YW and precious ftones, together with two other {mall chalices of agate, en-- riched alfo with jewels. All thefe jewels, fay they, were found at the bottom of the great cask which St. Miracles Anthony the Ruffian got fithed up by %5* 4 certain fifhermen, when he was tranf- ported from Rome to Nieugart, fit- ting on a mill-ftone, having made it his bargain to have all that came up inthenet. ‘Then they fhewed me a great book, which, upon certain ho- lidays, they carry in proceffion; it is adorned with precious ftones, full of fcripture ftories in paint, and all in characters of gold; all thefe things are kept feparate in cafes of red vel- vet. They fhewed alfo the body of the archbifhop Peter in filver, with a bafs relief of him above; a {mall reddith flip of Chrift’s garment, al- ready méntioned in a cafe covered with glafs; the body of the archbi- fhop ‘fobn, in a coffin like the for- mer, and that of Phzip in another. thony. Then they fhewed me the reliques of pj ,yes of faints; the hand of ‘fobn Satoefteva ; Saints. the fkull, and all the head of Gregory Bagaflovo, and the like. From hence, having thanked the Prieft for the C4 ‘a t. Mi- trouble he had been at, I went tog. the church of St. Michael the Arch- angel, very fine within, and full of piatures like the former. Here all the great Dukes of Mofcovy are en- tombed all in one place, excepting the two laft, brothers to the prefenc Czar, who ate in another. Their tombs are raifed up, and upon them you have rich habits of red velvet, with bands of green velvet, and there- on in Ruffian characters, their birth, their age, and time of their deceafe, with great pearl croffes; but none of them for magnificence comes near the laft of Ivan Alexewitz, which is all adorned with precious ftones. I left this church and went to that of Church of the Annunciation, or, as they Blagoweefine, {mall and full of pi- tures like the laft. Here,ina room, they fhewed me 36 filver boxes, and fome gold ones full of the reliques of faints, which they had taken the I pains call it, the Annun- C1ab10%. 72 1703. WV™ againft I came. The pains to {fpread out upon a long table In the firft there was fome of the blood of Chrift, and in the others, a {mall crofs made of the true crofs; a hand of the Evan- gelift St. Mark; fome bones of the ‘prophet. Daniel, and other Saints, like Mummy; feveral heads, and other reliques all very brown. Having fhewn me all this, they would have carried me to fee other churches, but my curiofity being fatisfied, I excuf- ed my felf, and thanked my con- _ ductor for the trouble I had given Difference between two'Tar- him, and the reft for the favour they had done me, which was quite un- ufual, and perhaps without example in that country. ‘Upon the fifteenth of this month,’ I went with Mr. Poppe to vific the Knez, Bories Alexewitz Galietfen, at a pretty country houfe five werfts from Mofcow, and as we went; thi- ther paffed by the fine eftate of the Knez, Mighaile Serkaskie, the richeft of all the Princes of this dominion, and fo powerful that befides a great number of villages he is lord of, he has above 20000 peafants his vaftals. | We found the Knez, and I begged of him to grant me a pafsport from the office of the prikaes of Ca/fan, of which he was Vice-roy, as wellas of Afiracan. And this I did, becaufe Mr. Poppe had given me to under- ftand that the Governour of Ca/an and him of Affracan, would pay no regard toa pafsport from the prikaes of Pofelfcb, and might put a ftop to my journey. The Knez Bories a- greed to it, and difpatched me one, in confideration of Mr. Poppe who was his friend, and at the fame time wrote to the Governors of Cafan and Afiracan in my behalf. For which we returned him our thanks, and took leave of him. This Lord had, fome months before, been at Ca/an to make upa difference between two Tartar Princes, father and fon, which arofe as follows. ‘The fon having with him a woman the father was in TRAVEL'S field at the head of 20000 men; the 1703. father on his fide in a hurry got to- “~V~ _Afiracan. of gether 40000, and they were ready to fall on each other, when the Knez arrived and made them friends. The Remars- Tartar Prince among other things 24” «sé. made him a prefent of a piece of coarfe cloth, which neither burns nor confumes in the fire; and the Knez giving fome of it to Mr. Popte, he gave ittome. He told meit was made in Katay, between China and Boggaer, and that they there con- tinued to make it. From the ifland of Cyprus I formerly brought fome of the ftone Asbe/tos which may be {pun 4nto thread, and will not wafte in the fire, and in former days they made a cloth of it, but the art of doing it is now loft. Ply men- tions fuch a kind of cloth, as do fome moderns who. have treated of the Roman antiquities, and the ufe of lamps in the monuments of the an- cients. Upon the /ixteenth I dined in the city with Mr. Poppe, and returning to the flabode, I obferved there was a fire ina certain place, whither I went to fee how they contrived to putit out, but they dono more than throw down the next houfes. My pafsports being difpatched, I prepared for my departure, in com- pany with an Armenian merchant, called facob Daviedof, who had tra- velled from I/paban to Holland, and had been fome time at Am/erdam. We agreed to fet out upon the ¢wenty Jecond, and to fall down the river to The time I had left was employ’'d in taking leave of my friends, and particularly Mr. Vander Hulfid our Refident, and the Siecurs Brants and Lups, to whom I owed a thoufand obligations, and efpecially to Mr. Coyet, who being perfectly {killed in the language, and inform- ed of the cuftoms of the country, gave me fuch hints and inftructions as were of great ufe to me in the fequel of my journey. I went from tarPrinces. Departure love with, the latter got her fpirited Mofcow about noon, and finding -no gin Mok away from the former, who enraged vefiel to carry me on board of thecow. at what had been done, declared war with his father, and appeared in the I fhip where the Armenian was alrea- dy embarked, and which was fallen down Kolom- menske, CORNELDPU SEMPER RU YN. 1703. down to Malsko, to have the benefit obliged to hire three waggons to car- I 703. \v™ of high water over the fands, I was ry me thither. a ld CRRA RRR RAT EP GR Grol PowiXV. Departure from Mofcow. Courfe of the Wolga. tion of the Towns and Places upon that River. at Aftracan, i be my way to the fhip I paffed by the town of Kolommenske, on the right hand upon an eminence ; it makes a good figure, has a fine monaftery, a church and two towers. You enter the two fides of it by crofling a raft of timbers faftened together, fo that part of them may be removed when fhips are to pafs, and be put together with the reft again. I alfo went by feveral vil- lages, charmingly fituated on -an e- minence on the right hand of the river. ‘Towards evening I got into a wood of low trees, and being fome hours in going through it, ic was late before I got to Matsko, where I heard the barks of the Armenians were not yet come. Here were two houfes, and yet I lay that night in a barn half open, and upon the hard floor. Upon the ¢wenty third in the morning, my fellow-traveller came down with four barks, and three o- ther Armenians, who were going al- fo to Ifpaban, and informed me the fhip we were to go in, and on board of which he hada great quantity of cloths, was fallen down ftill 60 werfts lower ; fo we followed her by water, and reached her at ten at night; bur as it was late, and every thing topfy- turvy, we did not care to go on board, but went on fhore, where we made a good fire,and fed upon good pike and perch we had, as we came along, bought of fome fithermen for three pence. From hence I wrote fome letters to my friends in Mofcow and in Holland, and upon the twenty fourth, about ten in the morning we imbarked. In thefe parts they have Vou. 1. : Defcrip- Arrival 73 {mall flat-bottomed veffels, which mo te the Ru/fians call ftroeks, and which carry about 300 bales of filk, or a- bout 15 lafts: They are eapacious, and have but one maft and one fail, - a very large one, and of ufe chiefly when the wind is aft; but when the wind is not either right aftern, or well upon the quarters, they row with fixteen oars, They have no rudder, but a long kind of paddle, broad at the end in the water, the other end is fupported by a kind of crutch a- dapted to the purpofe, and this the patron or mafter manages by a tac- kle reeved on each fide, which keeps it fteady, and which may be taken on or off at pleafure. We had on board 23 failors, and 52 paffengers, as well Ruffians as Armenians, rec- koning fervants into the number. The river hitherto winds very much, and is every way about 40 fathom in breadth. In about two hours time veffels cal- led ftroeks. we came to the monaftery of S¥0- Monaftery lenski, which makes a figure at acl Smolen- e hs diftance, and has a fine fteeple, and** is on the fide of a wood about 100 werfts from Mofcow, nor did we lofe fight of it cill about four of the clock; and after this we, on each hand, faw a country more open and full of vil- lages, and afterwards a more lofty {cene of land, and.dropt anchor when it came on to be dark night. Up- on the fwenty fifth, about nine of the clock, we arrived at Kolomna, Kolomna, to the fouth-weft of the river of Mos- ka, an epifcopal fee in the fouthern parts of Rufia, to the eaftward of Mofcow. ‘This city I drew on the north-fide, without any fight of the U river, 74 1703. iy it in No, 18. The Occa. The TR river, and you have the profpect of This city, which has already been mentioned in my jour- ney to Veronis, is 180 werfts from Moscow by water, becaufe of the great {weeps of the river, upon which it has a bridge, or a raft rather, fuch as we juft now defcribed; and here we ftaid feven hours to give our people time to get ready their can- vafs and geer for failing. Towards the evening we came to the river of Occa, which comes from the fouth, where the Moska falls into it: It is very broad as well as the Moska, which till then had feemed but {mall to us, and its fource is not far from the Crim Tartary. It crofles the fouthern parts of Mo/covy, and flows away to the eaftward of the city of Mofcow, through the dutchy of that name, and falls into the Wolga at Nifi-Novogorod. ‘This part of the country is very pleafant, and on the right hand is the town of Kzekzena Serophof, where there are two great buildings, in one of which the Go- vernor refides, and on the left a vil- lage, with another large edifice, 10 werfts from Kolomna. ‘The courfe of the river being more direct than hi- therto, we advanced at a greater rate, and did not come to in the night. Upon the. ¢wenty /ixth in the morning, we pafied by the village of Dedenawa on the left hand, and here there is a fine church upon the river, 30 werlts from Kiekzena; and here to the right and the left you fee a wood of {mall trees, and the river is every where of the fame breadth. That day alfo we pafled by feveral villages, and then met with lands higher, yet very agreeable, but there the river begins to wind again. Steer- ing our way eaft-north-eaft, the land and the trees appeared to us of a charming verdure, and at the laft turn of the mountain I took the view you have in N°. rg. Being beyond thefe mountains which we had on- ly to the right of us, we found the river much ftraitned, and about even we had, to the right and left of us, hills covered with {mall trees. Upon the ¢wenty feventh in the morning we AVELS of faw a lofty mountain to the right, 1703. and feveral villages to the left, with’ vw cows and fheep feeding about the country: In the mean time we had every day fifhermen, who came to us in {mall boats [canoes] hollowed out of the trunk of a tree, and fold us more pike and perch for three or four pence than feven or eight perfons couldeat. Advancing ftill eaftward, we, on the left hand of us, met with an ifland of fome length full of trees, and afterwards with feveral villages at the foot of mountains, and the fine monaftery of Bogoflova, built of ftone, Fie mona- and very agreeably ficuated among trees, upon a hill, and on one fide a great green plain full of cattle, quite down to the river. This mo- naftery is north-weft 20 werfts from flerys Pereflaw; a profpect of which you Pereflaw. have in No 20, The foil here is very fine and full of villages. About three we had a low country, and an hour afterwards we came in with a culf of the river Prorater, 15 werfts from Pereflaw; and foon afterwards we came in with another, as big as a river, and ran up a great way into the land ; and an hourafterwards a third, on the right, which ftretched up the land, towards the mountains, and fpread out on both fides; for my part I take it to have been a flood ; and here the river again begins to take its fweeps. About fix we had fight of the village of Fabrenewa up- on an eminence, and the country o- verflowed all beneath, nay over the tops of the trees; it had the look of a fea; the foil here appeared to be fandy. ‘There we often met with veflels coming from Ca/an and other places, towed along with a rope, by men with great labour and difficul- ty; tho’ they have the relief of fail- ing when the wind can ferve them. Here we faw ftore of ducks, {nipes, and other game, and at the evening arrived before the monaftery of Bo- rofske, built of ftone, and upon a hill not far from the river, and near a village, three werfts from Pere- flaw, where we ftaid all night. Up- on the twenty eighth, we paffed by this town, in thick cloudy weather, Pos which RY OAM REIS 2S + nM 3 SER ett PIB ARN es DEAE CD Ae. Satan agupenc ates A ie . et 5 y 2 4 » On eA eS Ne eH moabritheny Rte Wet e a k De a 4 tgs ve le hat tes f D. ih 5 tw Wy Wy, a} PO a ee eee Tt... a \ U : ; i) ‘ VOE SUR LA. RIVIERE r 4 Y / ee . $ 4 4 + ’ . : se 9 eR HP A nce eran si ienenesintefilea 1 oie tem eR SE meee > nal Cee os inpaeagen aterm 23: shin er fora sone mata A de ct Bea ii: 2 Ee Lope pa Ret oes PILOT TORE DENS : ie pea Ne Ha ab aber Beg 8) atthe aa ani ny xtanelon ee ee nn * AE ARN MAN REE oS ee ee ep Soak SN eastock ee: CORNELLUS*LE BRUYN ig 4 1703. which prevented us from feeing it as with a fmall village, and foon after 1703. wT could have withed. It is upona that of Solbfade, with a church in- ~V~ rifing ground not far from the ri- ver, in latitude of 45 degrees 42 minutes, and is called Pereflaw Re- fanske, a name it derives from the province of Refan, the capital of which it is. We afterwards went by feveral villages upon hills, and faw overflowed land, which looked like our combuftible foil of which we make turf, in the paflage be- tween Leyden and the Hague. Eight werfts from Pereflaw we faw a great village belonging to Li/maffe, Iva- nitz, Erfofskie, Governor of Afira- can, and fome Ru/ians under tents, diverting themfelves along the river fide; but farther on we faw many villages, and all a flat country to the right and left, covered with water above the tops of the trees. The river is very broad in this place, and in the evening we were furrounded with trees; but the water had fo covered its banks, ic was hard to know them to walk upon. The weather was very fine, tho’ very hot. I went on fhore with the boat, which did fo every day for wood, to fee if f could meet with no game, and a- bout the evening a great bark rowed by us from Mofcow. Upon the twenty ninth in the morning, 10 werfts be- yond Rezan, upon the left, we met with an opening of many fathoms within the land, where the river having made its way, formed a great lake, navigable for {mall craft ; but the weather being thick and hazy we could fee no villages. A league from thence we had fight of ano- ther gulf, where the lake, juft men- tioned, terminated in a round form; the meadows hereabout were full of horfes and cattle, and beyond them were high mountains. At nine we faw more lands under water, but coming to a point where the river formed a little gulf, we faw dry ground again, and a place called Kieffrus, where were only fome poor wretched houfes, and feveral veffels, Here we hoifed fail for the firft time, with an eafy gale, and to the right of us, faw the monaftery of Terigho differently large, and buile of ftone: Then we came again to great Inun- dations, and faw feveral great trees with water up to their branches, and this is every year the cafe till July, when the waters begin to a- bate. Upon the ¢hirtieth, coming to a pretty place 100 werfts from the city of Kefemof, 1 drew the profpect of it as in No. at. We got under fail a fecond time, with the wind at north-eaft, but we did not continue to be fo long, and were obliged to handle our oars again ; and having pafled by fome villages, we came up with a country fo drowned, that we could fee nothing but sky, water, and the tops of trees. Towards evening we met with a vef- fel belonging to his Czarian Majefty, and laden with anchors for A/oph, with another with her of {maller di- menfions; and we faluted each other with firing of muskets. When we were within 30 wertts of Kafemof, we xagemof. made ufe of but eight oars, that the crew might take turns to relieve one another, half and half. Upon the fir of May, at one in the afternoon, we appeared a long fide of Kafemof, feated upon the left hand of the ri- ver, and upon the top and declivity of an hill. Tho’ it be confiderable for extent, it has no walls, and all the houfes are of wood, as well as the four churches. Here is a tower to a mofch, belonging to the Turks and TYartars, that live here, where I landed with fome Armenians, to buy provifions and beer, but could get none. We rowed after the bark that kept on her way, and had much ado to overhaul her, in a full hour, pafling by feveral villages in our way. But our people who went afhore in our abfence found afparagus, and got . a good ftore of it. They were long and flender, but well tafted, and good to ftew; and taking the largeft of them, I dreffed them after our man- ner. Having gone by feveral villa- ges, there came up fo ftrong a gale again{t us, that it was as muchas we could do to avoid ftriking on the ftar- board «WOO. 1703. Lay Alaetma. then CR A board fhore. The wind was at fouth- eaft, and we did ftrike and ftick a lit- tle once, but we foon got afloat again ; and upon this occafion I obferved of thefe barks, that they are not ready at anfwering the helm. At night we came up with a village, {preading down the declivity of the hill to- wards the river, and there I took a _profpect which you have in N°, 22. Moruma. Upon the /econd, in the morning, we arrived at Alaetma, 60 werfts be- yond Kafiemof: It is upon the top of a hill, and lies inwards the land, fo that it is not quite to be view- ed from the river; is confidera- bly large, has eight churches, and has fome houfes on the fides of the fiver; and is furrounded with feve- ral villages, and has pleafant woods on each fide. We afterwards faw feveral villages, and a great mead full of cattle, and beyond that another eulf of the river, which feemed to wind among the meadows and their trees to a village at the foot of a mountain. ‘The river is here very broad, and the banks on each hand are full of trees, and here we faw a prodigious flock of geefe in the air. Upon the ¢hird we pafled by Moru- ma, a town upon the declivity of a hill, tolerably large, with feven ftate- ly {tone churches, and feveral others _ of wood; and here they fay is the beft bread in all Raffa. It is inha- bited both by Ruffians and Tartars, and here begin the Tartars of Mor- Beggars. dua. As we went on we faw again feveral villages and lands under wa- ter; the river is here very broad, and one of thefe villages was at the foot of a mountain, which runs away fome leagues farther. The foil is fandy and fo full of ftones, that it is dificult to land: Here we faw a man continually making figns of the crofs, and every now and then bow- ing down to the ground; which our Ruffans obferving, went in the boat to him, with what every one had been pleafed to give him, and among other things fome loaves ; for he was a poor beggar, and a little after we in the fame manner faw three wo- ~ men with their children, on whom £EN, VELS of alfo we beftowed our alms. than they come down for charity. After this we came among fome lofty hills, bare of trees, and yet very . green. At length, reaching a kabak, we landed in hopes of getting fome beer, but it was bad, and we had a good deal of trouble to fetch the bark; then a brisk gale fprung up againft us, which forced us to lie ftill for fome hours. After this we cro fed the mouths of two rivers, the Molfua Raka'to ftarboard, and eight werfts further on the larboard fide the Clefma, which comes from Vo- lodimer.' Upon the fourth we came into the midft of a lofty country, and got down to the village of Ishuletz, 40 werfts from Nifen. Here we met a bark with ten oars, which. made good way again{ft the ftream of the river, whofe banks were ve- ry level on each fide, and covered with trees, with hills at a diftance. About ¢hree we drew near to the monaftery of Dudina, moft pleafantly fituated amid{t trees, upon the de- clivity of a hill, on whofe top is a village, of which you can only fee the {pires of the fteeples. At night it came on to blow fo ftrong, and fuch a fea was raifed, that we were glad to take fhelter on the larboard fhore of the river. Upon the j/th the wind fell, and we got under way again before it was day, and having gone by feveral villages, we came at length to the fhipyards, which lie along the river, and reach to the fuburbs of Ni/en, where there is a fine and great monaftery furrounded with a wall; a ftone church in the bot- tom, befet with wooden houfes down to the river; another ftone church, indifferently large, and well built a- gainft the hill, on the top of which is a village. The Ruffians common- ly call this city Nz/enx or Niesna, o- thers Nz/i-Novogorod, or the little Novogorod, and fome Nifen Nieugar- It is the capital of the {mall Dutchy of the name, and: has a ci- tadel upon a rock, or the conflux of the Occa and the Velga. ‘This city “i fituas y * 207 » : I Thefe 1703. poor people live in the mountains,'~-~4 ‘and no fooner fee a veffel approach VEUE SUR LA. hee oncnaseipa . Sie elie BME ay RT en 5 Sani na wee job dh nie eientty.«. aii 2 aie ‘ SP ane REE Biss ro CEA NR A IRIE, UN TR re Abe A ANG te : $ ; ’ Pennie ier Sea ON wine eee eh eek Cte pee Oa ay eee eer r Sapereast en Se Mae giet may age CORNELIUS LE: BRUYN "7 1703. is begirt with a fine ftone wall, and tleman, who is reckoned to be the 1703. Uy you go through a great bazar or richeft merchant in all Rufia; and“VN) market before you get to the gate called Lwanofskie, which is towards the river. This gate is built of huge blocks of ftone, and is very deep ; from hence you afcend by a great {treet full of wooden bridges, till you come to the gate called Dia- wietrofskie; near which is the great church, built of ftone, and with five domes varnifhed over with green, and adorned with fine croffes. On one fide of this church is the archie- pifcopal palace well built of ftone ; and within its inclofure a pretty lit- tle church with a fteeple, and two other churches, the one of ftone, the other of wood. The prikaes or chancery is alfo near this gate, and of wocd, as is alfo the Governor's houfe. However, there is no great fight to be feen in this city, whofe circumference is not very great, and all its houfes of wood; nor has it more than two gates. The country about it is pleafant to the eye, full of trees, and well ftored with houfes. Its walls are flanked with towers both round and f{quare, and among them is one more confiderable than the reft, and to be feen at a great dif- tance. In the gate on the land-fide, in the paflage to the guard room, were four pieces of cannon. But the fuburbs of this city are very large, efpecially next the river, where are feveral churches of ftone, and where the hill, divided into feveral parts, on which there are churches and houfes, has a very fine effed; but there is no feeing of the circuit of it, becaufe of the heights and the depths which intercept the fight. The river here is always crowded with a great number of embarka- tions going and coming from all parts. Upon the fide of it is a great _ village belonging to Mr. Gregory De- mitri Strogenof, where there is a fine ftone church, and a great houfe of the fame where this merchant fome- times refides. About eight there went away 48 great barks with ten oars each, and 40 hands to load wood; and all thefe belonged to this Gen- Vor. l. to;each of thofe who went to fetch his wood he gave three rix-dollars. At night they began to ring the bells for the feaft of the Afcenfion which was to be kept the next day. Here we took in a ftore of provifions, and particularly brandy, which is at this place both good and cheap, for you have eight bottles of it for 40 pence; nor did the Armenians forget to take as much of it as they thought they fhould want. Nor are eatables lefs plentiful: You may here buy a lamb or an ordinary fheep for thir- teen or fourteen pence; two fmall ducks for a penny; a good pullet for three-pence; twenty eggs for a pen- ny ; two white loaves, reafonably big, for a penny; a brown loaf of feven or eight pound for the fame price, and the beer is both good and cheap. This city is computed to be 800 werfts from Mofcow, which make aboutt 160 German leagues, tho’ the diftance is not above 100 of the fame leagues by land; and ftands upon the Occa, which we entered at Kolom- na, as we have faid; and here this river falls into the Wolga, formerly called the Rda; and thefe two rivers thus united, are about 4000 foot broad, if we may rely upon thofe who have meafured them in winter upon the ice. This place is at pre- fent inhabited by none but Ru/ians; here are no Tarfars ; it is very popu- lous, and in the latitude of 56 degrees 28 minutes. I fhould have been glad to have feen it in front, and have taken a view of it from the river, - but they would not fuffer me to do it, no not for money, becaufe of the - holiday ; for upon holidays, the Ru/- fians do nothing in the world bute get drunk ; and in this pickle did I fee many of them wallowing in the ftreets. It is odd enough to fee how the poor keep all day long before the kabaks, or houfes where they fell brandy ; I ftaid fome hours in that where we bought ours, to fee the pranks and mummery of thefe drun- kards, when the liquor firft begins to operate; but they muft ftand . the 78 1703. The TRA the ftreet, they muft not prefume to VY go into the houfe. At the door there he Ruf fians hve to drink. is a table where they depofite their money, and then they give them the quantity of brandy they want, which is taken out of a great kettle, with a wooden ladle, and poured into a cup of the fame material, the {mal- left meafure of all cofting an half- penny. And thus are they ferved by a particular perfon who all the day long does nothing elfe, attended by another, who receives the mo- ney; nor is this publick practice of drunkennefs common to the men only, it is the very fame with the women. In fhort, I faw this fcene over again at a kabak for beer, where they are allowed to go in to drink. Upon the /ixth we embarked to get our people on board, and pafied the night upon the river ; early the next day we proceeded on our voyage, and as we pafied by the city and the fub- urbs, I like the view of it fo well, that you will find it drawn by me in No. 24. Advancing forward we faw two vil- lages on the larboard of us, one of which. was very great and called Wee/- na,and on the ftarboard the monaftery of Befljerske, a great building all of ftone, the roofs excepted, with fe- veral houfes to the right and left, a werft from the city. We alfo faw a fmall church called Fa/ffoofmi up- en a hill, and fome hundreds of per-. fons going to it from all parts to ce- lebrate the feftival, and {preading their tents to divert themfelves un- der. We continued at three werfts from the city till the /eventh at _/e- ven in the morning, and about noon we came up with an ifland, a- bout two werfts in length, and co- vered with trees. We then went by feveral hills, and another ifland without trees; and left the river of Kerfimia, and the monaftery of Ma- caria to the larboard of us. This monaftery is a great building of {tone, and looks like a caftle or fort, _ being furrounded with a fine {quare ftone wall, with a tower at each corner of it: I fhould have been ~ glac to have taken a view of it, but the day was too far fpent. On one fid: there was a village, and a chan 4 VELS of or caravanferai built of wood, where 1703. | the merchants keep their goods; and “VS is a place where there is a great fair every year, in the month of Fuly, whither moft of the traders in Ruffa refort, tho’ it lafts but a fortnighre. Our Rufians going thither to buy fifth, were told, that not above a fortnight before a certain Governor coming from Mofcow, had been there attacked by three barks, manned with each 18 Ruffian pirates; that the Governor’s was fo well provided with arms, and defended itfelf fo well as to kill three of the pirates, and ob- lige the reft to betake themfelves to flight; that this accident had driven. the Governor back again to Mo/cow, but that he had left one of his peo- ple in the village to be dreffed of his wounds he had receiv’din the fkirmith. This made us refolve to keep upon our guard, and we prepared our arms to defend us in cafe of need, being provi- ded with about 40 mufkets and piftols, and all the night we had a Ruffian and Armenian paflenger upon the watch. Upon the eighth, at break of day we atrived at Bormino, 100 werfts from the laft town we had paffed ; and here we had the fhore on each fide full of trees, and the river of {mall iflands, and about eight we got to the town of Goekina, which belongs to Count Golowi. This place ftretches a good way. along the river, and is faid to contain 7000 houfes ; and here the country peo- ple brought us bread to fell. As we held on our courfe we faw fe- veral floating iflands upon the river, which is here very broad; and about ten we crofled the mouth of the Soera, which comes from the fouth, Where begins the high mountains, at the foot of which is a great vil- lage called Wajfel, and at top the town Waffieligorod, which is not to wafieli- They told gorod. be feen from the river. me it was {mall, had no. wall, and all wooden houfes 120 werfts from Ni- Jen; and thefe parts are full of Cze- remiffian Tartars who reach quite to Cafan. About four we arrived at the town of Kufmademianski, 40 Kufmade- Ic is tolera-mantkt. werlts from the latft. bly large, and ftretches along the river, a penin iatbctnl hep Eh NG aN dt Bai ; ones Jy es: * ’ ee ih oa ie > 55 hee ee Wg atijer eS a sags APR ERNE AyD RR CNG PRES el DONE ci ajo y ‘ <¢ , = z S aan : oe t : SST Oe ON SIRY s, QT I ELA RE a ¢ eee SS A Sihitia mest ep oighnste Web ed canaries oa TS ages 5 sac bo ag niniaae Sb ee . . : Pree ae oe ie semnarrsaubiesateh Hc . ‘ AT ; vi Sant 2 4 ba * enna ! wa Spear COIS RR ABS AS GT = * eyed et Chee PA end -c spine tn a alse ale Se! . Sh ee Www no wall. CORN RUNUSADIE BR U YN 1703. river, and partly up the. hill, but has The wind being fouther- ly we got up our fail, and as we went on, we obferved the two fhores to be full of linden trees, and feve- ral iflands, but faw no hills. In the Sabakzar. night we pafled by Sabakear, which is 40 werfts from the formers; upon an eminence alfo, and I thought it looked very pretty; and 30 werfts Kokthaga. from thence we faw the town of Kok- Jeaga on the larboard of us. Up- on the zinth we were at fome high hills, and came up with a great bark attended by feveral others, bound for Ca/an: ‘The weather calm, moift — and hot. About noon we pafied be- fore Blowolska, but 80 werfts from Cafan, on the ftarboard fide, and thence to Bellawalska, where out people went for fome refrefhments. At three we fteered by the town of Swyatskt, with a fair wind. This place is upon an eminence, is pro- vided with a citadel, and has feve- tal churches and monatteries of ftone, but the houfes and walls are of wood ; and the whole is formed in- Swyage. to an ifland by the Swyage, which Cafan. comes from the fouth-eaft, and here falls into the Wolga, Over againtt the town, on the fide of the Wolga, at the point of a hill, you fee the village of Soldaetske flabode, between which and this town this river falls into the Wolga, as has been faid, and as appears by No. 25, where you fee an ifland before the river of Swyage or Swyatskz. We coatted this hill or mountain, and fteered away fouth half eaft, and at fix had fight of the city of Ca/an, on larboard of us, diftant four werfts. It makes a great figure becaufe of the churches and monatteries it is full of, and its citadel farrounded with an enceint of ftone. We had a little before failed by the yards where they build the fhips, tix or feven werfts from the tow, ina reach where the ri- ver is very broad, and here we faw 40 veflels of all forts upon the cs, and many others more near- ly compleated, on the fide of the town. ‘They told us they were to build 380, moft of which were’ to in 0 to Aftracan for the fervice and 1703. care of the Ca/pian fea, and the ret “VW to other places. I took aview of Ca- jan as we went by, in the beft man- ner I could, and as you may fee in No, 26. fouthern parts of the Mu/covite Tar- tary, upon a tiver of the fame name, which the inhabitants call Cafanske, and falls into the Wolga, and is the capital of the kingdom fo called, be- tween that of Bulgar and the Cze- remiffians. wood. Beyond this we met with feveral iflands, which feemed like forefts in the river, and upon the hills took notice of a kiln, where they were at work, and on the left of us lands under water. Upon the tenth, we came to the mouth of the This city has a wall of — It is in Afa, and in thes /a-— ti0H. tiver of Kama, which falls on the ae larboard fide into the Wolga, at the diftance of 60 werfts from Ca/fan ; it is very broad and comes from the north-eaft, and falls with fuch a tor- rent into the Wolga, as alone to hur- ty on veffels for fome leagues. They fay the water of it is brown, which - I did not perceive; tho’ it is certain fo tweet, that it mends the Wolga ve- ry much for drinking. About noon we came to the fmall town of Je-Tetoetfie, toetfie or Tetus, upon a lofty hill, go werfts from Ca/az ; itis furrounded with a wooden wall, and confifts of poor wooden houfes, and fmall churches: You can only fee a part of the walls as you goby. There is alfo, upon the river fide, a {mall village, where our people went for provifion and ice to cool our drink. We then went by a great ifland cal- led Starifo, 40 werfts from Tefus, and at night by feveral others full of trees; and here the river is a good league in breadth, and has moun- tains on the ftarboard fide of it: As the wind was both ftrongand againft us, we rode at anchor a part of the night. Upon the eleventh I went a- fhore with my Armenians and fome Ruffians, to buy provifions near the town of Simbierska, which is on the Simbier- right upon a hill, three werfts from *- the river. "They fay it was former- ly a large city, and deftroyed by the great So 1703. The TRA ‘great Tamerlane; tho’, as I under- YN ftand, there are no remains of it at River of Ocffa. ae this day, nor had I time to fearch for any. Some will have it there were other cities and iflands higher up, of which there are ruins ftill to be feen, but it is a matter to be doubt- ed: Tho’ they aflured me, that near Zariets there were ftill fome foot- fteps of an old caftle and its walls. Upon the whole they affirm, there are very confiderable and very an- cient cities between Ca/an and Aftra- can, and among the reft Acktoeba, upon the river of Oeffa, tho con- cerning this I have been able to ga- ther nothing certain. Oeffa is known between Saratof and Zaritha, on the other fide of the Wolga, and that it falls into this river and wafhes even a part of Szberza. It is known alfo that the city of Acktocba was upon this river, but there are not the leaft traces of it left now, all the ftones having been removed to build 4fracan, and fome other places. Being on fhore I found the purlieus of the village of Szm- bierska of great extent, partly upon the river, and partly upon the hill which we were to go up, before we got to the Bazar. When we came a fire had juft broke out among fome houfes upon the hill, and had al- ready deftroyed five or fix of them, and in lefs than half an hour there were above 20 burnt down; for the wind was fo high that they were in flames before they could pull them down to ftop it: We here found e- very thing as cheap as at Nze/na; I fhould have been glad to have gone quite up to the place itfelf, which is 180 werfts from Ca/an, but our veflel being under way there was no doing it. I was however informed it was large, furrounded with a wooden wall; that in it were eight {tone churches, three or four mo- nafteries, and above 10000 houfes all inhabited by Ru/ffans, the Tar- tars keeping in the villages. We were almoft two hours before we could overtake our bark, nor was it without danger we rowed after her, the river whirling about violently in True it is the VELS of fome places, “and being very deep, a {mall boat can hardly live in it. We again met with feveral places covered with trees, and very pleafant to look at, and hills alfo that thew themfelves through thefe fame trees. Thirty werfts from this town we came to the village of Szengiela, and feveral others inhabited by Ruffans, and foon after to the town of Nove Devitzke Salo, of great extent, very clofe, with many churches and a great fteeple. In the night we met with a bark rowing and full of Ruf fians, who afked us whence we came, whither we were bound, and what we were? We an{wered, we belong- ed to his Czarian Majefty, and ad- vifed them to come no nearer for fear they repented it; we appre- hended them to be rogues. Upon the ¢welfth in the morning we faw hills on each hand of us, fome of them covered with fir, a fight we had not feen till now. The river was not a werft broad in this place, tho’ to make amends it was very deep. It had been fo high this year, that it had drowned all the land we have {poken of,fo that there were even rivers that could not be diftinguifh- ed. The Ruffans are very ignorant in thofe things, and could tell me no- thing of the caufe of it, neither could I get any information on fhore, be- caufe our veffel made no ftay here. At nine we got to the village of Szera Barak, 40 werfts on this fide Sa- mara; here our people went afhore for provifion, and the river widened, and we faw an ifland under water, and on the left of us a high round hill with hardly any trees, called Sariol Kiergen. The Rujffians told us it was the tomb of a King, or Emperor of Tartary, called Mam-siny of a 1703. has fuch a troublefome fwell that —Vv™ mon, who came up the Wolga with Tartar 70 other Tartar Kings to feize upon Rufia: That dying in this place, his foldiers whom he had brought in great numbers on this expedition, filled each his helmet and buckler with earth, to raife him a moun- tain, which is this hill. A {mall league from hence you meet with ce another L708 0 Swiss 1703. CO.R Ny ByL DL US BeBe Re Ovo another called Kabia Gora, covered \v™/ with trees, and extending to Sa- Fine ful- phur. Samara. Its fitua- tion. Wa fitele. mara, thofe on the left are fo thick that there is no feeing thro’ them, the growth being chiefly alders and willows. Here they find the beft fulphur in the world, a difcovery which has not been made above two years ; and here were then at work upon it 4000 perfons, as well Ru/- jians as Czeremiffians and Mordwa- tians; over whom the Czar has fur- veyors and foldiers. Thefe hills are on the weft of the river, and at two in the afternoon we came to Samara, on the eaft of the fame, and upon the acclivity and top of a hill, not very high, and bare of trees, and ending with the town it- {elf upon the river fide, as you fee in Ne, 27. and not as others have written two werfts froin»the river. At the end of this town you have the river Samar, whofe name it bears, and they fay it falls into the Wolga five or fix werfts from thence. This town is indifferently large, all of wood, with poor wretched houfes. Its walls are of wood alfo, and flan- ked with towers, of which there is a very great one on the land fide. The city covers almoft the whole hill, and the fuburbs ftretch along the fide of the river. They com- pute it to be 350 werfts from Ca- fan, and as you go by it, you fee a gate, and feveral fmall churches with fome monatteries. Twenty five werfts from hence, we, on the ftar- board fide, faw a river called Askula fall into the Wolga, and into this does the Samar difcharge itfelf. Here we loft fight of the hills and moun- tains, the river was very broad, and fhortly after we had fight of them again very near us upon the right hand. We met with feveral veflels that day, and faw ducks of an ex- traordinary fize, brown and white, and thwarted the river Waffele on the larboard of us; it is but {fmall, and near it, in the Wolga, a narrow flip of an ifland covered with trees, and under water, which we thought very ftrange. ‘Then we met with another veffel from Aftracan, whole Nts aa & mafter told us he had fourteen others 1703. coming after him, all bound for the “VN fair of Makaria, we have mention- ed elfewhere; part of them went by us in the night. Upon the ¢hzrteenth, on the left of us we faw Kaskur, 120 werfts from Samara; it is fmall], Kaskur. with a wooden encient flanked, with towers of the fame, and has alfo fome churches the fame. Its fuburb or village is on one fide, as may be obferved No. 28, About a league farther there is another town, cal- led Sie/eron, indifferently large, and Sieéron. with feveral ftone churches. The mountains here are dry and bare; but they are much better a little farther Sr on. The Calmuc Tartars {cour thefe Ste parts, and carry off man and beaft, *“* and whatever elfe comes in their way. A little ftill farther on, the river winds very much, among great iflands full of trees, and the coun- try was fo overflowed, that it was difficule to diftinguifh the bed of Wolga. We then faw the hills again upon our right, but parched up with the great drought and heat of the fun, whereas at other times they are covered with verdure; and indeed the country people earneftly longed for rain, being at a lofs for where- withal to keep their cattle. We then went on to Se/a at the foot of the mountains, 60 werf{ts from Ka/- kur; and there we met with three great Stroeks, one of which belong- ed to his Czarian Majefty ; they were full of Coff@e women, whom they were tran{porting to Ca/an, and whofe hufbands had been hung up the year before for their robberies, con- cerning which we fhall have occa- fion to fpeak hereafter. From herice we croffed the entrance of the river Wafpele, oppofite to which you haye the Nove Derevene, or the New Vil- lage belonging to Count Golowin. We rode part of the night at an- chor, to eafe our people, who had been fatigued with a fpell of 60 werfts. Upon the fourteenth we had the wind aft, and went down the river ata great rate. A veflel laden with crockery, and bound for A/fra- can, pafled by us; and about e/e- oe ven . | i | 82 Tie TRA 1703. ven we got to Wofkrefinska, 65 miles YN) from Saratof, where the hills were very fteep, covered with a grey fand, and full of ftones. Here we met with fifhermen, who gave our peo- ple a great deal of fith for a little brandy, which they are not allowed to fell: This part abounds with oaks. Soon after this we were taken with a violent ftorm of wind, thunder, and rain, which made the river as rough and boifterous as a fea, and obliged us to come to anchor under the larboard fhore, where our vef- fel ftruck fo hard againft fome trunks of trees, that we were in im- minent danger, and had like to have loft our boats; for thefe barks have but a {mall anchor, which they dare not let go in the open channel, when the wind is high, becaufe it would not be fufficient to keep them from driving; but the ftorm did not laft long. At night we went on fhore, 20 werfts from Saratof, where we lighted up a good fire, and met with oaks, wild rofes, and other flowers; and having recovered our- felves, we returned to our veftel : But we had no fooner got on board, A judden than one of our Armenian merchants nf. had a fit which made us defpair of his life; and in it he continued for two or three hours, when he began to move a little, but without any power to fpeak. In the midft of this we came to Saratof, and brought him upon deck, where we faw clot- ted blood come out of his mouth, which made us fancy he had an impofthume in his throat, and that he would hardly recover. In the mean time we fent to the town for a Phyfician or Surgeon, but none being to be found, and perceiving I could be of no ufe to the fick man, I went to fee the town, which is in Westen oS fouth-eaft of Rufia, and on the f Sarath notth-eaft of the Wolga, againft, and in part upon a hill, its fuburbs ftretch- ing along the river. I found it had no walls in the higheft parts, but wooden towers at fome diftance from each other. It has a gate a quarter of a league from the river, and ano- ther on the left hand, feparate from ; 2 VE LB tof the town, and a third on the fide 1703. of Mofcow by land, with fome pa~-“v~Y lifades between them. When you come to the fide on the right hand of the river, you have a defcent with gardens; and beyond this laft gate you fee an open country and a bea- ten road, frequented by thofe who travel from Afracan to Mofcow by land; and here are feveral wooden churches, befides which there is no- thing remarkable; except that the inhabitants are not only all Ru/fians, but almoft all foldiers, under the command of a Governor. Eight years ago this town was reduced to afhes by a fire, but is now all re- built. In thefe parts the Tartarsqartars commit continual ravages, extend- ravages. ing quite home to the Ca/pian and the river of Faika. ‘They reckon it is 350 werfts from Samara, and in the latitude of 52 degrees 12 mi- nutes. There we faw feveral vef- fels full of foldiers, defigned for Afoph and elfewhere, and we depar- ted before noon. From the river you fee nothing but the towers and the tops of the churches, becaufe the fuburbs is between the city and the river. When we came back to our vef- fel, we found the fick man in the condition we had left him, and he died about three, which furprifed us Death the more, as we had before feen 2 Arme- him afhore brifk and feemingly in”*” good health. His companions ex- Grier of preffled great forrow for him, and Ais country- covered him over with a cotton” cloth, which they tied about his legs, putting a book upon his head, a crofs upon his breaft, and incenfe at his head. Then two of them Zpeir fine. began to read out of a book for twor#! cere hours together, and in the mean time “””""” they prepared him a fheet, a fhirt and drawers of new cloth: This done, his fervants went on fhore to look for a proper place to bury him, but before they carried him thi- ther, they read and fung a fecond time befide him: When he was on fhore they ftripped him, wafhed his head, and then his whole body, which they placed upon a plank, and put him a is AS GOTO TN SA ae RS EER A 5 ? ee) a 4 i Ao Se iced (Fa ety 5 3 aR Sere ARASH pe RN tet Sit RU ahs Sassi RD 208 CR Rtaie ts pte ic a rai fe ee pO tt at Sm Re. ib ieek WARNS St Mo pie ey ‘ git + 3 = sale ke 3 ae LR te rae aan iy Bee 5 RE IN ale ok A aa HN te Teach ot chs yeaa Okt Rane pact ot Aa : ; . a6 “s 3; % } ; eee : aaa : < cine eat ps aa he ema Ae icacti ss o ale a r TE TA AERA SE acc ett al ne ERI Ste MERA geen abe : ie * a> is é “t i $ Fe aol A b 4 peat ; “9 ; conan ‘ X . 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A ; ih f / , if | HI ‘ | y (CCT TR 7 TERE ee iii Hy i ee A Wi a. IN NY SE —S= = ra Mh ss == —s —— SS = NG SS SS —— BK \ S seers oon pipe Riese) Sas he, ee ee ? it Bl Pris eset: nde Heath ‘ ; ene 5 ; : a ae m4 cs ieee aromiatwei sei AEG “Tae N TOE SS MR BARA FIA 9 Bae rp Ta AP eh st Jb) IPR HR + + a CARY 5 ras A Shs A teutd ,| + A ea eM acne a IR i LS es H CORNEUPWS\ BE BRUYN 83 1703. his new drawers and fhirt, a crofs bled away in feveral places, very fan- 1703. \“V™ about his neck, which fell upon his dy, and full of fwallows nefts, and faw “VW breaft, a chaplet of beads in his right hand, anda taper in his left. They then put plaifters or linens upon his eyes, mouth and ears, and croffed his arms ; and this done, they wrap- ped him up in a fheet, and put him upon a bier covered with a carpet. Thus they carried him in procef- fion to the top of the hill, where they had dug a grave for him, and then began again to fing and to read; and the Armenians kiffing his fore- head one after another, they com- mitted him to the earth, and threw each a handful of fand upon him, with figns of the crofs and other ceremonies. At laft they filled up the grave with earth and ftones, and placed a great wooden crofs at his head, and three {mall ones acrofs one upon another, and threw great {tones upon the grave, and ftrewed gunpowder about it; not forgetting a taper at the head. Thefe ceremonies over, they each of them in order kiffed the higheft ftone, and burned the in- cenfe upon it, and fetting fire to the gunpowder, they prefented every one prefent with a {mall glafs of bran- dy. Every one belonging to our vefiel attended this funeral, nor could feveral forbear to mix their tears with thofe of the Armenians, fo mournful was the office, and efpe- cially fora man we had fo very late- ly feen in perfe&t health. His name was Peter Archangel, and he lived at I/paban, where his wife and chil- dren longed to fee him with the ut- moft impatience. This hill, which is divided from the reft, was furrounded with oaks, willows, alders, and here and there had rofe trees in the bud; and if the ground had been a little moifter, we fhould certainly have met with flow- ers and herbs; tho” we could not go down to the village for the waters that were out: This mountain is called The bill of Gorofoponofskie, and is 26 werfts from Saratof. After this we had feveral of the moft pleafant profpeéts in the world. Upon the /xteenth we had fight again of fteep mountains crum- there birds continually flying in and out. The river is here alfo full of iflands, and at a diftance we de- {cried the Golden mountain, which they call Soloftegor7, and fome others More covered with verdure and trees; and between two the {mall river of Doexinke, which runs to- pio af wards the north-weft, 25 werfts from Saroegamis. Then we met with a wood between us and the hills, part- ly in the water, and where two barks had been caftaway when the river was at the higheft, and were ftill entire. We here alfo faw fome fithermens huts, and towards night we paffed Doezinke; by Saroegamis, a town they had been Saroegas building for four years,and was now ™ pretty far advanced, indifferently large, and furrounded with a mud wall, which they were hard at work upon ; and near 400 families were already come to fettle here from Mofcow. The hill it is built upon is lofty towards the river, fteep, and very rocky. On the left hand, be- neath the town, you have the river of Kamufcbinka, which goes away wefterly, and they fay it fprings from the canal of I/ba, which falls into the Don, which difembogues itfelf into the lake M@otis, and di- vides Europe from Afia. They fay the Coffacs upon the banks of the Don were ufed to come upon the Wolga in boats, and commit great depredations in thofe parts, though men of warlike profeflion were fre- quently fent to reprefs their info- lence; but as all was in vain, this town was built as a bridle upon them. They were alfo at work up- on a fort, with a mud wall on the other fhore of the Kamu/fchinka ; but this building went on heavily, the workmen not being able to ftand the badnefs of the air: And had it not been for this, the Czar would have dug a canal from hence into the Black Sea. I went to fee this work, and they told me the firft defign was to have built this town, where the firft was begun; but that it had been given over, on account Me : the 54 Tire TERA 1703. the badnefs of the air. It was re- WWN) folved alfo to make a dyke from one Ife of Alinda- Loeka. mountain to the other, to intercept the courfe of the Kamujchinka, and prevent it from falling into the /o/- ga; but this alfo they were obliged to give over, becaufe the gates of the fluices could not bear up againft the weight and violence of the waters, which from time to time come down from the mountains; befides that the foil beneath the ftream was fo ftony, and even fo much upon the folid rock, that there was no driving into it. All this conftrained the projector to defift from his un- dertaking, to avoid the vexation of mind. he muft have fuffered by a difappointment. We had got fo far, very little by the help of our fails, but by the ra- pidity of the current, and the ufe of our oars, going onat the rate of 120 werfts a day, or 24 hours.. Upon the /eventeenth in the morning we thwarted the. river. of Bodloclea, go werfts from the laft town we went by, and there met with a ftout bark belonging. to the Czar, and coming from Afracan. In this place I drew a profpe@t, which you have IN gIN 2.30, About eleven. we had a violent {quall from the hills, and were for- ced to double man our oars, and with all their pulling, it was as much as they could do to keep clear of the larboard fhore: And at laft we were obliged to make faft to fome trees in the water, at the foot of the mountains, but fair weather coming on again, we went our way, and came to an ifland on the left of us, called -Alinda-Locka. The mountain runs out fo in a point to- wards this ifland, that the paflage between them is very narrow; this place is 60 werfts from Zarit/a. A flurry blew us afhore foon af- terwards, but we were not long before we were on float again; but the wind continuing, and even ga- thering ftrength, and the rain falling apace, we thought it beft to fhelter ourfelves under the lee of the hills, and make faft a fecond time to the VELS of trees. We then went afhore in our 1703: boat, which had been impracticable “W2 with the bark, and made up a fire to cook fome victuals; while the reft were at this, I went up the hill to look for flowers and plants, but every thing was burnt up and wi- thered, and befides the wind was fo high, it was difficult to ftand againft it, and I went back again as faft as I could, but in my return, I found upon the withered plants and herbs, a fort of butterflies, blue on the out- fide, and of a grey fpeckled within, fome of which I brought away with me for the eauty of their colours variety. | : The weather continued as it was, and with a nipping cold ull eight at night, when the wind began to grow duller and fhifted in our favour. Whereupon we immediately got up our canva{s, and at two in the morn- ing we arrived at Zarit/a, where we Te town ftaid till the day broke, being the? Zaritla. eighteenth, and at fun-rife we depar- ted. This town is upon a low kind of a hill; is {mall in compafs, and feemed. to be fquare, with a wall flanked with towers. Its fuburbs ftretches along the fhore, and goes partly about the town, and its chief church is of ftone, but not then fi- nifhed, the reft. are of wood only, and f{carce at all to be feen; I took a view of it however as we pafied by as you may fee in No. 31. It is in the latitude of 48 degrees 23 mi- nutes. From hence to Afracan the woods abound with liquorice, with a ftalk three or four foot high, and the ifle of Serpznske, which is twelve yy, of Sex- werfts in length is not far from hence. pindske. Behind this ifland there is a canal of communication between the Dox and the Wolga, which it feems is not navigable, and which, as well as the ifland, the Rujfans call Ser- pinske. We then began to lofe fight of the mountains, and by fen we were 60 werfts from Zarit/a, having pafied by feveral iflands in our way. Mean time the hills ftretched away farther and farther from us up the country to Jzenogar, from whence we were as yet 40 werfts, the river 2 being Ks aN Sn) Re was : Sas ee eo n\ Re er aM 1703. Vyw The town of Tzeno- gar. ORB EbW w & & BB Rew YN in, the foldiers and the country peo- 1703. ple fhutting the gates upon us; tho? “yw being here three or four werfts in breadth. After this we had the wind right aft, but fo brifk that we had much ado to keep our veffel from yawing to one fide or the other, fo as to run aground; and one of our boats {truck with fuch violence a- gainft our rudder, that we were obliged to cut her away, and let her fink; a lofs which might have been {pared, for I had not been out of her a minute, on account of a hound I had in her, which I removed in- to the other boat upon obferving her to make water; nay even fome of our paflengers lay in her in the night, there not being fufficient room for them in the vefiel herfelf. At fun-fet we arrived at Tzenogar, 200 werfts from Zarzt/a, the wind having ftood fair for us all the day. This town is 300 werfts from Afracan, and upon a hill on the ftarboard fhore. The. firft thing you fee here is a corps de garde, of which you only fee the top or roof, and on the other fide you have another of wood, and in form of a Lanthorn. The town itfelf is {mall, furrounded with a wooden wall, and defended with towers; but it has nothing remark- able within, andino more than fe- ven or eight wretched houfes with- out. The Ruffans wanted to land here, as I believe, to diftribute fome money they had raifed among them, in the bad weather, to the poor; but the wind was fo high, and the cur- rent fo rapid, that we fhot a good way beyond the. town, and were forced to come to anchor, but the cable, too weak to bear the effort both of the gale and ftream, parted, and we were adrift. This I had forefeen, and advifed our people to hand their fail, before they had quite reached the town, and come to with their oars.; but as it was, and the fhore being very fleep, they were obliged to get into the water to hale our veffel on fhore with hawéfers ; and then they took the boat and went to the town, while we ftaid under the lee of the hills. I went alfo to the town, but being fome- what belated they would not let us vot, I. indeed they were fo good as to bring us beer, bread, milk and eggs to fell. Every body returning to the veffel, fearch was in vain all night made for the anchor; but the next morning they found it. This town is inhabited by none but foldiers, who are kept here to withftand the ravages of the Calmuc Tartars, who fometimes come and carry off cattle, and fcour the country quite to Samara. Upon the zzneteenth the wind was againft us, and we got out our oars, and, as we rowed along, we faw feveral {teep hills, green at top, and all a- bout the fides fandy ; and here the river was a werft broad. We then rowed away to a great wear or fifh- ery, 80 werfts from Tzenogar, cal- led Kaflarskie, and which produces moft admirable fifh; and here alfo we faw a gulf the Holga has form- ed by incroachment on the lands. Having gone 125 werfts we came to an anchor in the night; at break of day, upon the ¢wentieth, we weigh- ed and departed; and the wind be- ing fair for us, we were by noon within 100 werfts of Aracan. There we doubled a point where the river {weeps round with fuch a torrent, that veffels are frequently loft; and here you have 40 fathom of water. A little farther we met with a num- ber of ducks, and an ifland ten werfts long, in a reach where the river is very wide. At the point of this ifland there was a guard of 30 foldiers, in three or four cabbins, where all vef- fels muft ftop. While we were here, we faw two barks from Afracan on the oppofite fide, but the foldiers having fight of them, they got into- a boat and failed after them. We had at anchor with us two large veffels bound for Ca/an, but we ftaid here no longer than an hour, and at a diftance faw hills which {tretch away to Affracan. About feven we were within 22 werfts of this city, and an hour afterwards we faw a ftout bark on fhore, and partly to pieces, tho’ there were people ftill on board of her. Soon after this WG we 85 : i : . j 86 1703. LYN Arrivalat Afiracan. The Author avell re- cerved by the Gover- nr. Fartrefs of Neyen a- ken by the Czar. fe aR we had fight of the church of Sa- boor, a very great one, and about eleven at night we arrived at A/ira- SAGER GAIA AAAI AA CAUAAGASASE Sl ae ee, | 2 Defcription of Aftracan. Situation of the gardens. Abundance of fifo. Manner of living among the Tartars. HEWN we landed they fearch- ed every thing we had on board, except my baggage. I went direQly to wait on the Governor Timaje Ivanowitz Urfofskte, and pre- fented him my two paflports and a letter from the Knez Boris Alexe- witz. He received me very kindly, and having perufed my letter, made me an offer of his houfe, and every thing I might want during my ftay in this city; but I returned him thanks, and told him, I was under a neceflity to be with my 4rmeni- ans, whofe language I underftood, and with whom I was to go on to Perfia. We was fatisfied at this, and fent for my things, which, unfearch- ed, he ordered to be carried to the Caravanferai of the Armenians, where I lodged with Mr. Yacob Daviedof, of whom I have made mention be- fore. We had fcarce dined when eight or ten perfons came to us from the Governor with a prefent of re- frefhments, confifting of a fmall cafk of brandy, a large veffel of copper tinned, full of red wine, and two others like it, full of mead and beer; four large loaves, two geefe, and fe- veral pullets. Thefe, to whom, as my way was, I made a {mall pre- fent in return, were no fooner gone, than two foldiers came to do duty at my door, and were to be relieved every eight days. They alfo fent me 2 Rufian Enfign who under- ftood Dutch, to carry me about, and be my interpreter. At that time the Governor received advice of the taking of the fortrefs of Neyen, which the Czar had carried by af- 3 fra AME SL As sop can, 2000 werfts, or 400 German 1703. leagues from Mofcow, Cafan ftand-~-~y~ro ing in about the mid-way. : fault upon the 2d of May, and where he found 80 pieces of cannon, 8 mortars, and a Swedz/h garrifon of 3500 men, to whom, as the report was, he had given their liberty. I went to walk about the town, which is upon the eaft of the Wol- ga, in the ancient Scythia ; tho’ now... the whole tract between the Wolga, of attra- the Farka, and the Ca/pian is called n. Nojaia, and the country in general the kingdom of Afracan, from the city of Afracan, the capi- tal of that name, which is in the Afiatick Tartary, upon the frontiers of Rufia, and upon the principal branch of the Wolgz, which a few leagues from thence empties it- felf into the Cafpian; concerning which we fhall be more ample in what is to follow. This city is in 46 degrees 22 minutes of northern latitude, in a little ifland called Dol- got, formed by a fmall river which | may be feen from one of the tow- ers.. The beft ground about it is | eaftward towards and quite to the | river Satka. To the weftward of it, there is a great heath, which is faid to be 70 leagues, and to extend towards the Black Sea, and even fome leagues foutherly quite to the Cafpian. Here you have a very fine falt, which is fent all over Ru/- This town is defended by a good ftone wall, a league in circumfe- rence, and with ten gates. I went caves o¢ out by that of St. Nicholas, or the the city. Nikoolske Warate, and followed the river upwards to go round it. From thence I went to the Red Gate or Krafnie C:O RO NGE EU GE BR vies 1703. Krafnie Warate, in the higheft and “Vv~ moft advanced part of the town. 87 rian Majefty, on this fide the Ca/- 1703, pian, upon the mountains of Cir- “vw . they go in and out. The great church. From thence ftriking into the coun- try, I came to the gate of the Gra- nary or the Guetnie Warate, which is {hut up, but there is another which goes into the citadel, where This Grana- ry which is without the enceint of the town, is furrounded alfo with a {tone wall. From hence you go to the Mot/agotskie Warate, near which at fome diftance from the city, is another gate of wood, which is not reckoned into thofe of the town; it ig the gate of the Lartars, who live on that fide, and where there is always a guard of Ruffans. After- wards you come to the gate of Re- foltifuie and that of Wifnefenske, be- tween which there are two towers in the walls, 300 paces from each other. From hence you turn down towards the river to go to that of Spaskie, and from thence to that of Lfadnie, without which is the fith- market, the bread-market, the herb- market and the like. At fome di- ftance from hence you fee another tower, and then the gate of Garen- skie, and near that without, the wood-market, and the place affigned for bakers, who are not allowed to be within the town. From this gate you go to that of Kabatskie, patling by a tower between that and the former. Six of thefe ten gates are upon the river, and two belong to the citadel, which makes a part of the city wall; and it has a third called Prieftmiskinske, or the clean gate, which goes into the city op- pofite to the Bazar, or great ftreet called Bolsjaulitz, where you have the greateft fhops both of the Ru/- fians and Armenians. As you go through this gate to go into the ci- tadel, you have on the left of you the church of Saboor, which they had begun five years before, at the expence of the metropolitan, whofe name is Sam/fon. This prelate has his peculiar rights over the clergy, and an office or fpiritual court of his own; and 1s alfo the metropo- litan of Tirk, a city under his Cza- caffia, about 700 werfts from Afira- can. As they were laft year at work upon the dome of this church, a pare of ic fell down, thro’ fault of the foundation, which was too weak, and they are now about building five {mall fteeples with domes, up- on which they are to have croffes, This church is {quare, and about 200 paces in circumference, the front is 67 broad, and the fides 47 long, _and the back part of it is partly up- on the wall of the metropolitan pa- lace, the chief edifice of the town, of great extent, and all of ftone. Not far from thence, and in the fine part of the fpace within the cita- del is the Governor's palace, a large wooden building, furrounded with a wall of its own, which is of wood alfo, with two gates, the one be- fore, the other behind, and the chap- pel of the court is without the in- clofure of this palace. Between the front gate, where there is always a guard, and the Governor’s palace, there is a fine yard, and the enceint of this court is called Iwan Boga/- loof. In this palace are many apart- ments, well lighted, and very plea- fant, but efpecially a great and ve-~ ty lofty falon with charming prof- pects on every fide. There is als ways a guard at the gate of the ci- tadel, which is well mounted with artillery. As you go into it on the right hand you have the chancery, a {tone building with many rooms, and in the Governor’s chamber there is a table covered with a red cloth or carpet. The chief church after that of Chu of Saboor, is that of L/dwiefinje, ot brick Ldwielinie: plaiftered over. The dome of it is gilt as well as the crofs, which is three fathom in length; that be- neath is green as well as thofe of the fteeple. All the reft of the churches are of wood, as well as the monafteries of Lroyts and Pet- tenske, the laft of which is for wo- men. In the morning there is every Tartar thing to be had at the Tartar Ba-marter. Rar 88 The aT RA VBI S! of > ° ba 7 } Fa ¥ py 4 1703. Zar of market, where the Ru/fans ing on to rain when I would have 1703. wa and Armenians alfo have liberty to made ufe of her, I was obliged to-“Y™~ | Streets. Goveri- ment. expofe their goods to fale ; but this market is over by the afternoon, when the Ruffans have theirs, tho’ to this alfo the Armenians are ad- mitted ; as for the Indians they do their bufinefs in their caravanferal. As for the city moft of the ftreets are narrow, and well enough to walk in when it is dry weather, but im- paflable when it is wet, becaufe the foil is very fat and full of falc, the reafon why the ground has a whitifh caft when it is dry. It is governed by the Governor and three burgo-mafters, the firft ef which is prefident of the town- houfe; the fecond has the infpection of the kabbacs or houfes where they fell wines, beer, and mead, and the third has the direction of his Ma- jefty’s fithery. Beyond the river and without the enceints of the city, you fee the monaftery of Iwan, a fine ftone building, and two other cloifters, and feveral flabodes or fuburbs, the chief of which is that of the fol- diery, to the eaftward of the city, along the river of Koefoeme, which falls into the Wolga. His Majefty’s fhips lie along that of Balda, over againft the city. ‘Thofe of Ca/aufe and Stepielewe are for all forts of people. The flabode of the Tar- tars is divided from the reft, and al- moft all built of earth and clay hard- ned in the fun; and here they are during winter, but in fummer they are in the opencountry. Laft year one half of this town was reduced to afhes, and many ruins are ftill to be feen, but they are hard at work in rebuliding it. Having thus in part fatisfied my curiofity, I defired the Governor to give me leave to draw what I fhould think fit, and he granted my requeft upon the fpot. With this intent I went upon the water in a {mall bark with oars, but I found the river too rapid to let me do my work, upon which the Governor was fo good as to let me have a larger veflel pro- vided with an anchor; but ic com- defer what I would have done ull we had fairer weather. I thought the town looked very handfome from the fide where the fhips are, and took it as you may fee in No, 325 where every particular is diftinguith- ed by figures, (1) The monaftery of Iwan or St. ‘Fobu. (2) The W7- efniffenske or monaftery of the Afcen- fion of our Lord, both without the town. (3) The Wiefniffenske Warate, or gate of the Afcenfion. (4) The church of Smolenske. (5) The Spaske mona/ftir, or monaftery of Jefus Chrift in {wadling clothes. (6) ‘The church of Arifhetwa. (7) Of the Wiefinje Sirko, or church of the Annuncia- tion. (g) The gate of the Cadbac, (10) The Krem!/ or citadel whofe wall begins inthe town. (11) The Klocknitfe or the fteeple.. (12) The Stafloent or the clock tower. (13) The Saboor or the great church. (14) The monaftery of Troyts. (15) The gate of St. Nicholas. (16) The Governor’s palace. (17) Iwan Bagafloef, or church fo called, in honour of a certain Saint. (18) The Woskrifinie Sirko, or church of Chrift reprefented in {wadling clothes. (19) The Red Gate the fartheft advanced towards the river on the fade of the Cafpian, (20) The Wolga on-~-the other fide of which are the fhips over againft the city. There were two of them aground, and all rot- ten, by the mifconduct of a certain Hamburgher called Meyer, a captain of a fhip. And a little higher there were fifteen other fhips that were come that year from Ca/an. There is a great number of gibbets in this Gibders. part, and on the other fide of the town, to each of which hung half a dozen naked Coffacs, whofe cloths had been fold at market by the Ru/- frans, who had ftripped them. 'Thefe carcafles had been fo broiled by the heat of the fun, that they were as black as a coal, and frightful to look at; but thofe that had been hung up nearer to the city had been carried off by their friends. ‘Thefe who had been joined by fome rebels and deferters Be RRR ARE ION ES RSL See aantctas Drlpeg create? r x ied & afl ’ : j ar Non \) \\) ( ) ( = | inclu WW | —— Uf Mf, K y) My ——— — ah iy re eV Weal feel net y= Y + oe Sth D8 9 Fane eicignes ie Ca! a i A res = " i sy i ee i AS sy Deere Lene r Ne OS Ss —~ SSS el SSeS eee SS LA TETE D’UN OISE MAY OLR PI | So rw wc i a ornare oa ‘ LEPELAER. NOME AT QQSss egg Zz (ete ey erat hy aae Bee PEEL OL CEL ee Saves, Ws ANY \ ae Gy ee ZZ Gi Wy Li LG Le Lye Ky Yy os are ea v2 Le fa fa thor vo a yaar a a ri — SS at ESPECE DUN HERON. Awe a Y ae \ by adie rcaceme Ry RA ore to ee ee Ce - igi or ae ie aa 1 eps bife te = ee. J ee ee ee etch am Senna SRS ORES eS ag. : es ne ER's LTEA, Pe ape a (genre net arn tha asin karti thi) hinemeentieinanige sabe atenn Slneae-ssesouhes hes ‘ , ‘ r ’ mae * ™’ A se ad ae pi atpitm gS eaten RR eee regen near i rpee Seats et ae : ‘ : ree 4 (EIT WIR Ye ey sdelicedelieisntdiie nortan katana 0 a AE - « eR AR =. eRe eine ao Mu e i < . > - \ 5 5 _ % . READER SSA * ; y : ; mae : ; ; ’ ee : > “ae a ERR EUON de ent > 2 PRO RNG or = ape, OR an er arene sence ee an en i Ins i oa Shoes at ee racine ann , ; : i Se es aero sf eee a OL io \ : age > ta Bes Sat, A SES wt ene ASAE i 57%. ry = pe saeaer ep EAE NE Aah aA tole ite le eit Si BN Ns Be te har: ae? Oblate A phal ee oe. Petia Re A a nem Re iene eer get A nit SF petuikhe aes ey eee, WES oe cote ect penne conte ramen ; boat i os , ey 3 gs 2 See baat mon ie: AP atg ised * PREM on x A - ee Roar Tage . ‘ ee COR NsE Ea wo 1703. deferters from Afracan, had pofted \v™ themfelves at a place called Gar- gan, upon a river of the fame name, with three pieces of cannon and two enfigns ; here they were befieg- ed and ina fortnight’s time obliged to furrender at difcretion, after a ftout defence; this happened upon the 1oth of Auguf laft year. Mot of them were hanged upon the fron- tiers of Ruffia, where they had been moft guilty of their robberies, and fome of them fuffered the fame Rebel pu- death at Affracan, befides 30 of the std. — ring-leaders, who were fent to Mo/- cow, where fome were beheaded and fome hanged; as for their wives and children they were fent to Ca- fan. The Prince or Knez Aldrige Chan Bolatuwitz, a Circafiian, was prefent upon this expedition with 400 of his Tartars, and Mr. Wigne, a Swede by nation, was there with 1000 Ruffians, whom he command- ed in chief; and to thefe were join- ed 500 Strelfes. The regiment of Wigne had four pieces of canon and two mortars, and the Strelfes had eight pieces of canon, but thefe ar- rived too late. Mr. Wigne declared to. me, that during the whole courfe of the fiege, he had at mid- ; night heard the howling of 4 or i Extraord- 509 jackalls or wild dogs, in a ST moft inconceivable manner, and that ; égs. None of them were either heard : or feen after the furrender of the place. ; The troops at this time in garri- fon at Affracan, were the regiment of Wigne, of 1000 men, without | the officers, (viz.) the Colonel, two } Majors, five Captains, ten Lieute- ; nants, and ten Enfigns, the Serjeants and Corporals being included in the number of common men; 600 Mu/- covite Strelfes commanded by fix Captains, and twelve Serjeants ; three other regiments of Strelfes, natives of the country, of 300 men each, commanded by a Colonel and three Stolnics or Captains; two regiments of horfe, each of 500 Ruffians, na- tives of this city: in all about 3500 men. The regiment of Wigne had 13 pieces of canon, the reft more or lefs in proportion. Vou. I, SE en ES a foe ae eis i = es LE BRUYN. 8g Provifions abound in this countty, 1703. wheat excepted, which is broyght ~V~ from Cafan and other places,/ So enn efpecially fith, of which the mott fons. efteemed is the Balege, fome of which are two fathoms in length. The S¢relet is an ell long, and we may 2 Strelet fafely fay it is the beft fith in ale, 4 Rufia. One of them alive at Mof-7 cow will fell for fix or feven rubles, but here you may have one for two-pence or thtee-pence. They clean it and boil it, much as we do falmon, and it is certainly the moft delicious fifh one can eat. They are of two forts, the one with a longer beak than the other, but in general it is not very unlike a ftur- geon, as you may fee in No. 33. I got two of them dried to keep. The Severoekes differ in nothing from a fturgeon, which they call Affetrine ; and cavear is made from the Beloeges, the Ajfetrines, and the Sevroefmes, and from hence exported to all parts. ‘They have alfo a ve- ry good fifh which they call Socdak, Soedak. which they drefs like the Mekwel, or the ftock-fith ; quantities of pike and perch, a fifh like a herring, and many other forts. The largeft of thofe that are worth the leaft are the Modienes, with great heads. The fifh-market is twice a day full, morning and night, and the Wolga affords fuch a glut, that what they cannot fell is every day given to the hogs. They will give to the com- mon people three or four fith, a foot in length, for a bit of bread, and bread is far from being dear. As for bream.and carp they abound no lefs. In fhort you may buy of the fifhermen without the town, Severoekes as big as cod, for the value of five-pence or fix- pence, and fo I leave you to judge what muft be the price of fifh in general. Befides thefe they have a {mall round fith, three or four inches broad, and long in proportion, which they call a Vioenie, and which are found as it were in pits near the mouth of a fimall river, where I have taken numbers of them in a fieve, and of feveral forts, fome of Aa which »,, go 1703. The which I preferved in fpirits with uv {mall Soedaks; and I fhould have Place for the Indi- ans and Armeni- ans. The Autbor wifits the deputy- ZIVEFHOF. faved others of them had they been {maller. There are about forty Armenian families about this city, who keep fhops, as I have already obferved. The Indians live in their caravanfe- rai, where they carry on their bufi- nefs; and are not inferior in number to the Armenians, but they have no women. This caravanferai is indifferently large, and furrounded by a fquare {tone wall, with feveral gates, at the two chief of which there is a guard, and at a certain hour of the night they are fhuc up. The Armenian merchants who only go and come, take up their lodging here alfo, and here it was that I ftaid with them; and there are, indeed, fome who even live and keep fhop there, where they have chans or feparate places for themfelves. ‘That for paflengers or travellers is two ftories high with galleries, and that of the Indians is on the other fide, and all of wood ; but they have lately built them a {tone ware-houfe for fear of fire; a building tolerably fpacious, being 40 foot fquare: And the Armenians are following their example, the founda- tions of theirs, when I was there, be- ing raifed fix foor. I had not been long in this city, when the Deputy-governor,or King’s Lieutenant, Mekiete Ivanowitz. Ap- cochtem, fent to defire I would come to him. I went the next day, and had the good luck to find there the Governor with all his family, and fome Ladies in the German drefs, upon juft going away, their coaches waiting for them in the yard. They received me very handfomely, and having entertained me with beer and brandy, the governor faid I had not only been recommended to him by the Knez Bories, but even by his Czarian Majefty, and then turning to me, defired I would come to fee him every day, and let him know in what he could be of ufe to me. 1re- turned him thanks, and he went a- waya minuteafterwards. When he 2 TE PONE Es ae Se Le oo ef of was gone the Deputy-governor carf- 1703. ried me and my fellow traveller Mr. ~V~ ‘facob Daviedof, into another room, and gave us fome Perfian refreth- ments, and behaved to me with great kindnefs and complaifance, which is quite in his nature. Moft of the gardens about the Gardens. city are full of vines and fruit trees, and particularly apple trees, pear trees, plum trees, and apricot trees, but their fruic is far from the beft: But you have water-melons here which furpafs even the Perfian. They let their vines grow to the heighth 7ingards. of a man, and prune them fo as to fhoot no higher, and faften them to poles or props. Their grape is in- differently large, black or of a deep blue, as they fay, forI was not there at the feafon. Thofe that grow in the gardens of private perfons, whe- ther Armenians or others, which are in no great number, are fold at mar- ket ; but they make wine of thofe in the vineyards, which belong moftly to the Czar, who has all the profits of them. Thefe wines are red and pleafant enough, the foil is very fandy, and as they have ftore of fprings, they fink pits in their gar- dens, and fupply them with water by fubterraneous canals; and out of thefe pits they draw it with a great wheel to which they faften buckets, which deliver it into wooden gutters or fpouts which diftribute it as they pleafe in the garden; and one camel is enough to turn all thefe wheels. Thefe gardens or vineyards are two or three werfts from the city, and their number increafes every day, and being open they have guerites or watch-houfes at certain diftances, where they have fentries to take care no body makes free with the grapes in the feafon. They told me it was above 100 years fince they began to plant thefe vineyards, and that it was thought to have been firft done by Perfian merchants,who had brought fome plants or flips from their coun- tr to pay a vific to Mr. Serochan Beek, who was defigned ambaflador to Sweden melons. Some days after my arrival, I went 7, gusicy vifits the ambaljuder CORN EIpDUrSs Pee TP ee es eee Somes — 22 on oOo SOS’ RG ESu oO os — O asfe OM oc =o oe ee hE Se 2 Sea oo OS & Qo Sc SRocS Ss Sa. 6 ae 2 ees ba BS ‘agt8sac8s Pe .~ 5s oat eS eS S's. O78 oe eae SSPE OF EER Se esoo 5H FS oes Paces ses os oa is} “SovpvsactoeGaa & 3 Tw && TF ’owvoriost ses = o ha @ategrkas set ss no ee oS 50% Eo ~ Pafesass cera s ge “SS ease sos a ont a Soo oe eo oa (©) wa Se eal 0 Zo c on Sara eA gs ww ae) no, OS eV w m~ 8 O Oc Gee euyO0F SYoot eGaovtsX®egeha SN yg Px OOS ot Ode ta 5 Os Zook 5) = ma, ot aor Sq. O pee oe ee Oa, oS SEUSS ye Poe eee See Sab po 8 toS 3.0.8 8.9 = a, c se | em UO ow oO ibe RoR: SoMa ete, roles eOo8 Bou eso Setesgel § sees EGisss OB Om Q5oS caufe Bb VOE? 1; 94 1703. Te TRAVEL: of caufe they are born there; nor in- tN deed do they pay any tribute to the How the Czar; they are only obliged to fend acertain number of their people to war when he requires it; and yet they can bring 20000 men into the TartarIn. field upon occafion. The Yartars dians shave the ait Ca, who are called Indians at Afiracan, fhave their heads in a ftrange man- ner ata certain time of the year; they tear it up by the roots with . the point of a penknife, fo that the blood runs down their cheeks, Their prieft, or the perfon they call fuch, has the firft {troke, and when he does it not as he fhould, they all begin again, crying out, Sukfemak/e, Suk- — femakfe, or Baffou, Bakfou, dancing _ and jumping aboutatthe fame time; and this they look upon asa kind of | offering to their idol Suk/emak/e. This ceremony was performed near the granary, without the town, fometime before Iarrived; and thofe who practife it are Indians, fome of whom live in the flabode of the Tartars. Thofe of Nojay.are. in tents about the city of Zzrck ; but the Tartars of Crim never fettle there, — and only from time to time bring their cattle to market. , Governr’s Upon the fawentzeth of this month, feaf. the Armenian merchants. ~conduéted us into an apartment, the governor gave a great entertain- ment, to which Iwas invited, as well as the principal of the Ruffian officers, and moft confiderable of Firft they where were the governor’s wife and daughter in law attended by feveral women of their train, and on the right hand was.a table full of dain- Another Feaft upon his Maje- jfiy’s name Gay. ties and liquors fit for the morning. Thefe Ladies prefented us each with a {mall cup of brandy, a piece of civility ufual in this country, and from thence we went into the hall where the dinner was ready, and they fent us home in coaches. ‘The twenty jirft, being St. ‘Peter's, was his Czarian Majefty’s name day, and the governor gave another entertain- ment where the patriarch was pre- fent, and all the chiefs of the city; but being out of order, I could not be there myfelf, nor go with them to the church of Sadoor, to affift at 1703. the folemnity to which I had been “VY invited fome days before: and upon this occafion they had great rejoic- ings and repeated firing of canon upon the ramparts and before the palace. ‘The Ladies were in another apartment, according to cuftom, and the next day they treated the fubal- tern officers, and fent them away early. | Upon the fecond of Fuly, news came that the Czar had got within 15 werfts of Nerva with his army, and had taken every thing in his way. | | The next day I went ina-chaifeto-: wards the heath, with the governor’s . fon, and fome officers who had a hawk with them. We faw a good deal of game about 20 werfts from the city, but we could get at none of it, becaufe of the waters which covered the country; tho’ I happen’d to kill a duck that was flying by me. Mean ‘time we diverted ourfelves with fifhing in a fmall river, where we caught a good deal of pike and perch, which we drefled and ate, That day we faw a number of Zar- tars encamped, and fine pafture lands full of horfes belonging to the inha- bitants of Afracan. Some of them rahi Orfes. were handfome enough, and we would have drove fome of them in our chaifes, but they were too fkit- tifh, having been at grafs all the fum- mer, in fine fields which are very frequence in thefe parts. All the ~ carmen of this city have fine horfes; you fhall hardly fee a bad or a lean “one among them, which is what I never obferved any where élfe. As the time of my departure drew near, defired and obtained as much room asI wanted in fuch of the barks — ' I liked beft; fo I made choice of the largeft and fitteft for my purpofe. Mott of the Armenians alfo prepared to depart, as well as fome Perfans, who were returning from Mofcow to Samachi [Samafhi). The Cham’s fal- coner was among the reft, with 5 or 6 hawks he was carrying into Perfa, from whence he had brought an ele- phant for the Czar of Mu/covy, which 5 pe, — ls eee pe Me ee Oe yA ee ae San a a a a GO R NOE EPO $4E-F +B RU YN 1703. he had delivered to the governor of WN) Aftracan, who fent it to Mofcow un- 95 time tolerably large, but moft of the 1703. other’ fruits had been deftroy'd by “WJ der the care of fome Rujfians and a Georgian, but it dy’d in the way at Zaritfz. This falconer came in the governor’s name to defire me to allow him a place in my bark, and I went on board of her .the next morning with that intent, buc I found the Armenians had crammed her fo full there was no room left. I went to the governor with complaint of this, and to defire he would order fome of the bales out, that we might have a little elbow room; but he anfwered there were ftill other veffels to go in, and that I had nothing to do but to take out of them what I would, to be at my eafe. I embraced the fa- vour, and took up what place I wanted, having fuffered much upon the Volga, before reached this city. Mr. Wigne at that time had news that the Czar had promoted him to the rank of Colonel, and upon the eleventh he entertained the governor and chief officers of the garrifon. I was of the number, and he treated us very fplendidly, with the dif- charge of artillery, andthe found of drums and trumpets. Leaving him, I went with fome Armenians to take a little country air at a houfe upon the river. The grapes were at this infects, When I was on the point of de- parture, and had got every thing I might want, not forgetting where- withal to fave me from the flies which are very troublefome in thefe parts, the governor fent me two {mall casks of brandy, the one of the beft, the other of the common fort; a fmall cask of vinegar, four of beer, one of wine, three flitches of bacon, a quantity of dry’d fith, and a bag of bifket, and fome other provifions. He granted me alfo a {mall bark, to go before, and unlade the great one of part of her cargoe, as we drew near the Ca/pian, a thing abfolutely neceffary, becaufe of the great droughts that fometimes happen in thofe parts. I took leave of the governor at four of the after- noon, and returned him a thoufand thanks for all his favours. WhenI had got back again to my lodging, he fent me three fealed bottles of diftil- led liquors. At length I embarked in a {mall veffel, with five foldiers to carry my things on board of the thip. The three Armenians, my compa- nions, had, in like manner, each of them a {mall veffel, for the fame pur- pofe. CHAP. 96 Th TRAVELS of 1703. Se nd CG HeA P. XVE. Reafons for inferting in this place the rout of Mr. \sbrants Ides thro Mufcovy im his way to China. His departure from Mofcow. people of that province, &c. Source of the Dwina. minifter in the country of the Syrenes. Arrival of that Defcription of the He embarks upon the Kama, and croffes from Europe to Afia. 16 USCOVY is now grown to be 92. : Mar.14 4VE very confiderable in the world, ~~~ aud has for fome time been fo much | Reafas the fubjet of difcourfe; and the | | Jv wet, Prince at prefent on the throne hav- ig in this 2% 5 | place the ing made himfelf famous for his con- | ae Mr. du&t, his victories and care he takes Ides, | to cultivate the minds and manners of his fubjeéts, by introducing into his dominions all that can contri- bute to their advantage, all’ Europe is attentive to what concerns this ereat empire, and inquifitive to know what paffes therein. It would be difficult to give a more circumftan- tial, more fincere and more intereft- ing an account of it, than that of Mr. Le Bruyn contained in this voy- age; butas he only traverfed a part of it, it has been thought it might be acceptable and ufeful to the pub- lick to add in this place the rout that was held by Mr. Isbrants Ides from Mujfcovy to the court of China, by the way of Tartary, a country but little known, and almoft wild, in quality of envoy extraordinary from their Czarian Majefties fobn and Pe- ter Alexowitz in 1692. and the ra- ther as this minifter has enriched the account of his journey with very ju- dicious and inftru€tive remarks. His cepar- He left Mo/cow in a fledge upon Seo ahe fourteenth of March; but he had nee: hardly got on his way, when it be- gan to rain fo plentifully, that he ° was expofed to a thoufand dangers i” by the abundance of waters in his way to Wologda, where he ftay’d 5 three days to recover himfelf from the fatigues he had undergone, and wait for fair weather. The froft began again upon the fecond day, and was fo very hard, that at the end of twenty four hours, all the ways were paflable; whereupon he began his journey further, the ¢wen- ty fecond, towards Suchina, where he arrived upon the ‘weaty third, and thence proceeded without delay to the city of the great Ufiga, where the Suchina and the Irga uniting their ftreams, form the famous river of Dwina, whofe name fignifies a double River. The Suchina runs almoft direétly 5% % north in a fertile foil; with feveral na. good and well-peopled villages on its borders, and on the left a pretty good town called Iotma. A great number of travellers fall down this river every year, togo from Wolgda to Archangel, with their goods, while the waters areopen: but the bottom being rocky, care muft particularly 23 March; be taken to fecure the {tem and ftern poft, and rudder, as well becaufe of the many rocks in this river, as be- caufe of the rapidity of its current, or you might be in danger of being loft. The city of the great Uffiga is at The great the mouth of this river, where this U*gs. minifter was obliged to ftop for 24 hours, to refreth himfelf and to fee the Warvods, his friends, who enter- tained him very chearfully. Upon the ¢wenty fourth, he arrived at. Solo~ CORNELIUS 1692. Solowitzjogda, a great town with ma- oA ny good merchants, and excellent jogda. Workmen in filver, copper, and ivo- ry. Here alfoare fine falt-pits, which produce a great quantity of that mi- neral, which is from hence tranf- ported to Wolygda, and many other places. Country of From hence he departed upon the ae eRe Of April, and the fame day ar- The people rived in the country of the Syrenes, “a a or of Wollof-Ufgy. “The inhabitants here {peak a language, which has no affinity with the Ruffian, tho’ it has fome with that fpoken in Livonia, as he was informed by fuch of his train as were of that country. They are of the Greek rite, and fubje@ to his Czarian Majefty, to whom they pay the cuftomary dues, but have neither governor nor waivode. They chufe their own judges, and when any difpute arifes which thefe judges are unable to decide, they go to Mo/~ cow where they have recourfe to the prikaes of Pofolske, or office for fo- reign affairs. In drefs and ftature they differ hardly at all from the Ruffans, and are thought to have been originally from the frontiers of Livonia or Courland, tho’ they know nothing of it themfelves, no more than how it comes to pafs they fpeak a language different from that of all Rufia, whither they may have been in times paft driven by the calamities of war, or by fome other accident which they now have no remem- brance of. They fubfift by agricul- ture, all buta part of them, who are upon the banks of the river Zz/o/, where they have grey furs. This country is about 70 long German leagues in length, and extends quite to Kazgorod. 'Thefe people hardly live at all intowns, but for the moft part in {mall villages and hamlets, {cattered up and down in the woods. This country butts upon a great foreft, where this minifter was a {e- cond time taken witha violent thaw, and a heavy rain,which in one night's time caufed a flood of the waters all about the wood, where in this con- dition he was retarded for four days, without being able to go either back- Vor. I. | roe BRU Y wards or forewards, the ice being 1692. {carce able to bear on the rivers. “Ww At length, with inexpreffible diffi- culty he got away, by throwing of bridges over thefe rivers, and by the means of feveral other helps. And upon the /ixteenth of April, quite fa- tigued and thoroughly wet, he ar- rived at Kaigorod, a tolerably confi- Kaigorod. derable fortrefs upon the Kama. He would willingly have held on his way quite to So/zkamskoi, the ca- pital of the great Permia, to go by land to Syberza, over the mountains of Wergotur; “but the thaw continu- ing, he was put befide his purpofe ; and being juft at the tail of the win- ter feafon, he ftay’d fome weeks in this city, expecting when the Kama fhould be navigable. Here in the mean time he provided himfelf with every thing neceflary for the conti- nuation of his journey, as alfo for defence again{ft the free-booters in thefe parts, and who not long before had pillaged even the city of Kaigo- rod itfelf. The governor of this place in- pjyrpeg formed our author, that upon a cer- 4y pyrates. tain day, about noon, they faw a number of barks full of men falling down the river, with colours flying, and drums beating, and making di- rectly for the town, which they had no fooner reached, than the people of them jumped on fhore; that the inhabitants not in the leaft dreaming of a furprife in the face of the fun, and at atime of peace, fuffered them unmolefted to draw near, not doubt- ing but they were neighbours and friends who were come from the vil- lages round about to divert them- felves: that thefe pirates fet fire to the fouth end of the town, and put all they met with, at the other, to the fword: that they then went to the Waiwodes, where they commit- ted all forts of hoftility, and ufed their fervants in the very worft man- ner they could, andupon the whole went their way laden with booty,and none to oppofe them: that it was afterwards underftood they were va{- fals of certain lords, from whofe o- bedience they had withdrawn them- Ce felves, 98 ee il RN 1692. felves, tocommit all forts of violen- i-y~ ces, and that fome of them had been taken and executed as an example to the reft. This made it prudent for him to provide himfelf with arms, and to ftand upon his guard. He departed hence, upon the twenty third of April, when the Ka- ma was become navigable, and hap- pily upon the twenty feventh got to Solikam-: So/zkamskot. From hence he was to VELS of in each of which they load one hun- 1692. dred and twenty thoufand weight of ~vW™ falt, or eight hundred or a thoufand lafts, without reckoning feven or eight hundred hands, for whom they have kitchens, furnaces, and other things neceflary for tranfportation. Thefe veffels which are 35 or 40 ells in length, have but one maft and one fail, which is thirty fathom long, which they ufe in going up the river skoi. _have taken the way of the mountains when the wind is fair; whereas in of Wergotur; but as that is imprac- going down, they ufe their oars on- ticable in fummer, becaufe the coun- ly, to keep their vefiel fteady in her try is full of fens and marfhes, tra- fteerage, which the helm alone vellers and merchants muft ftay the would not be fufficient to do, They fummer in this city, till winter comes are flat at bottom, and have neither on and it freezes again, that they bolts nor nails; and thus it -is they may crofsthefe mountains. Itis,in- fall down the Kama to go into the deed, poffible to go about by water Wolga; they then turn back againft to the weftward, but that is abfo- the ftream, by the help of tow-lines. lutely forbidden: the governor of or of their fail, when the wind is this town, however, apprifed of the fair, and go with their falt toCa/an importance of this minifter’s bufi- and Nifza, and other places upon nefs, difpatched him without delay, that river. and furnithed him with the neceflary Upon the fourteenth of May, he Heen- embarkations,that he might commo- embarked at Sol/kamskor, and having (75m. dioufly navigate the Su/awaya. croffed the little river of Ujolkat, half and croges Deferiptim Soltkamshoi is a very fine, largeand a league from this city, he entered 9 fm e pe" rich city, where are numbers of con- the Kama again, and crofied that ri- rie a od in aderable merchants, very fine falt- ver from Europe to Afa. Upon ‘ Jalt-works. works, and above so boilers of 25 Whitfunday he went on fhore, and ‘ or 35 ells in breadth. They here went up a pleafant hill where he ate \ make very great quantities of falt, his laft meal in Evrope, and then re- which are every year fent on all fides, turned to his veffel to continue his : in large veflels built for that fervice, way. | (OSES CEES, ERR EIU IIE ER EE CHAP. XVII. | 1 His arrival in Afia. Defcription of the country of the 'Tar- q tars of Syberia; their religion and manner of life. . 1692. HIS minifter being arrived in 14.May. Afia, upon the Sufawaia, ob- ~~ ferved it to be not fo pleafant as the His arri- Kama, which 1s a very fine river, wal in Afia. full of all forts of fifh, and adorned with fine large and populous villages, fine falt-works,ploughed lands, woods, fine meadows enamelled with all forts of flowers, and every thing elfe 4 that can be pleafant to the fight, from Solikamskoz quite hither. Not but that the country watered by the Sufawaia, which falls weftward in- to the Kama, is very fine and very | good, but it is tirefome to go up a- gainft the ftream, one rids no way, and efpecially when the waters are , {welled, and it is neceflary to ufe the Se ee ee an eee y ‘ | ( f \ CORNELIUS LE BRUYWN. 99 - 1692. the tow-line. Upon the ¢wenty fifth “V™ of May, he arrived in the country of a ie the firft Lartars of Syberia, called country of Wogulskt; which is indifferently well ead peopled along the banks of this ri- meer, and of charming beauty. At the entrance and going out of the hills, they have all forts of flowers and odoriferous herbs, and prodigi- ous numbers of deer, and all forts of game. As'the Lartars of Wogul, upon this river, are heathens, he had the curiofity to go on fhore and talk with them, concerning their belief, and manner of life. Their veli- "They are robuft,with large heads, ian of and their religion confifts of no more life. than making an offering once a year. ‘To this purpofe they affemble in the woods about, and there kill a beaft of each kind; tho’ their chief viGtims are horfes, and a kind of goats. They flea them, and hang them up by a tree, and then fall down before them, and this is their only worfhip. Then They pray they eat the flefh together, and re- but once a year. oo religious office that year; and why fhould we, fay they? they can affign no manner of reafon for their belief or worfhip: we had it, fay they, from our fathers, and that’s enough for us. He afked them if they had no knowledge of God, and if they ‘did not believe there was a fupreme be- ing in heaven,who created all things, and governs the world by his good providence, and who gives rain and fair weather? They anfwered the thing might very likely be fo, feeing the fun and moon, thofe fine lumi- naries, which they worfhip, and the other {tars were placed in the firma- ment, and that there was doubtlefsa Thy a- power which ruled them. But they bowl’ Svould by nomeans agree there was a devil, becaufe he had never made himfelf known to them. And yet they deny not the refurrection of the dead, but know nothing of what is to be their lot, or what is to become of Their fu- their bodies. When one of them meals. dies, he is depofited in the ground, and covered with his moft precious turning home, perform no other: ornaments, whether the deceafed be 1692. man or woman; but tho’ they erect*“V™ no monuments to commemorate their dead, they put money by them, in Proportion to their means when liv-. ing, that they may want nothing ne-_ ceflary for them on the day of refur- rection. They cry out and make. loud lamentations about the bodies of their deceafed, nor muft any man marry a fecond wife till he has buri- ed his firft a year. When it hap- to of pens that they lofe a dog, that has “#7 been ferviceable to them in hunting, or any other way, they in honour of him erect a little wooden hut, fix foot high, upon four pofts, where they place him, and let him remain as long as it lafts. ‘They may have They alleed as many wives as they can maintain, of pohga- and when the women drawnear the” time of their delivery, they retire into a wood,to a cabbin prepared for them on purpofe, where they ly in, nor Lyings-in. may the husbands.go near them for two months. | Beg Tea When they want to marry, they 7 mar- buy their wives of their parents, and" have fcarce any ceremony at their weddings, they only invite their near- eft relations to be prefent, and hay- ing entertained them, the new mar- ried man goes to bed to his wife with- out more ado. They have no priefts, and may not marry but in the fourth degree of confanguinity. This mi- nifter arguing with them, exhorted them to acknowledge the Saviour of the world, and be converted unto him, affuring them that in fo doing they would be happy in this world, and in the world to come. To this they anfwered, That they every day faw a great number of poor Ru/hans, who had much ado to earna living, as much Chriftians as they were ; that with regard to eternal life, ic was what they did not trouble their heads about, and in fhort that they would live and die as their fathers had before them, whether their faith was founded well or ill. You may %r4¢/. sudge of their drefs and manner by the plate following. They Their ba- bitations. te TRAVELS of They live in {quare wooden hutts after the manner of the Ruffian pea- fants; but ufe hearths inftead of ftoves, and burn wood. They co- ver the opening of the roof where the {moke goes out, with a piece of ice, as foon as the wood is burnt to a coal, and by that means retain all the heat in their room, without at the fame time keeping out the lighr, which fhines through the ice at top. They have no ufe of chairs, but in- ftead of them have benches of three quite putrified, they dry it a fecond time, and then it is they account it moft delicious food. For the reft they eat neither poultry nor hogs. They fix great crofs-bows in the woods, to which they faften a bridle, and bait, leaving the mouth open, and when anelk or other deer comes to feize on it, the bow unbends, and fhoots them thro’ and thro’. They dig alfo pits in the earth, which they cover with brambles and the like, into which thefe creatures fall as they it ells in breadth, and an ell from the run, and cannot get out again. Up- They love | ground, upon which they fit crofs- on the whole, thefe Tartars live in under the legged after the manner of the Per- _ villages, along the river of Sufawaia,rne fians, and the fame ferve them for quite to the caftle of Utka, and un- Czar. 1 They fubsp beds at night. They fubfift by hunt- der the prote€tion of the Czar, to il dy bunting, ing, the chief of their game being whom they pay a tribute, and live i. ands ells, which abound in this country. at eafe. Their habitations extend i | They fhoot them with arrows, and above 800 German leagues, to the | dry their flefh which they cut into northward of Syberia, and even to flices or flips, and hang it up in the the northward of the country of the | air about their houfes; and when it’ Samoéds. i | has been thoroughly wet, and is |. 4 : CHAP, q | CORNELDUS ERB RUYSH cay 1692. 1694, LAAN CPE RP. en, Arrival at the fortrefs of Utka,and at Neujanskoi; at Tuméen, and at 'Tobol, or Tobolska. Defcription of that city. beria. iio: ft ANG quitted the country of vita thefe heathens, Mr. Isbrants upon the fir/t.of Fune arrived at the fortrefs of Utka, upon the frontiers of the Tartars of Baskir and Ufimi. While he was here there came therea Tartar gentleman of Ufimi,a country in the Czar’s dominions: this gentle- man was in queft of his wife, who had left him without any provoca- tion, tho’ they were but juft. mar- ried: but not finding her, he com- forted himfelf with this faying, That the had left fix before him, and that by what he could judge fhe was fond of variety. | Upon the ¢enth he left this town by land, and went by the caftle of “yada: he then croffed the river of Neuza, and coafted along that of Reelh to the caftle of Arfamas, and from thence went to the fortrefs of ft Neu- Neujanskoi wpon the river of Neuza. janikol. A finer country isnot to be feen than that between Utka and this place, being full of fine meadows, woods, lakes, well cultivated lands, abound- ing with every thing, and well peo- pled with Ruffians. Upon the twenty jrft this minifter went away by wa- ter, and found the banks of the river inhabited by Ruffian Chriftians, a- dorned with good villages and fine caftles, quite to the Zura, which comes from the weft; and falls into he the Zobol. zr Upon the ¢wenty Jifth, he arrived at the town of Zuméen, which is al- fo well peopled, full of Rujians, and pretty {trong by fituation. Three fourths of the inhabitants are Chri- ftians, the reft are Mohammedan Tar- tars.. They have a great trade with the Calmuc Tartars, the Bugarian and others, and thofe of the coun- Vou. 1 flow it became fubje& to the Czar, together with all Sy- try fubfift by tillage and fifhing; but they have few or no furs except bear fkins, and red fox fkins. But there is a wood, fome leagues from thence, called Heetkoj-Wollock, which affords moft admirable grey furs, rate which never change colour in win-’“” ter, and whofe fkins are very ftrong. They are no where to be had but in Mufcovy, and it is, under fevere pe- nalties, forbidden to tranfport any to other parts: they are all fet apart for the court. Thefe animals fufter none to be in their woods but thofe of their own kind, and deftroy all the reft, which are lefs by the half. When the envoy arrived at this Te sows place, he found the inhabitants and 7 Tumeen all the people of the neighbourhood, eCulace in a confternation, on account of the Tartars. Coffacsand Calmuc Tartars, who had juft then made an invafion upon Sy- beria, where they plundered feveral villages,and killed the inhabitants,and now threatned this town from which they were not above 15 German leagues diftant. But the governor fent 2% gover: nor pro- for troops from Todo, and fome other 7”? places, with which he purfued thefe gaing Tartars, who loft anumber of their” people. For this reafon, he chofe to make x no ftay here, but, on the cwenty fixth embar' embarked on the Todo/, with a new fob. gang of rowers, and a guard of fol- diers. ‘The borders of this river are low and fubjec&t to be overflowed in the fpring, and yet they are in- habited, partly by Mohammedan Tar- tars, and partly by Rufians. ‘This river produces every fort of good Upon the fir/t of Fuly, he happi- His arri- ly arrived at Tobol or Lobalska,a ftrong Ae To- place, with a great ftone monaftery, Dd adorn- Batt a i k 102 ” The 1692. adorned fo with high towers, that it wv might well be miftaken for a fortrefs. i Defeription of tt. Depreda- tions of the Calmucs upon the Czars This city ftands upon an hill at the conflux of the Tobol, and the Irtis: the foot of this hill and the fhore of the Irtis are inhabited by Tartars,and Mohammedan Bucharians, who drive on a great trade with the Calmucs upon the river, and go even beyond, as far as China. When it happens to be fafe to go through the country of the Calmucs, it is the fhorteft way to China, by the lake Fama/chowa. Tobol is the capital of Syberia, and its jurifdiction extends fouthward be- yond Barabu ; from Wergotur to the river Ody to the eaftward of the Sa- moéds; to the northward, quite to the country of the Offzacs ; and weft- ward as far as Ufa, and the river of Sufawata. The country about is well peopled, as well by Ru/ians who follow ullage, as by feveral other people, Zartars and Heathens, who are tributary to the Czar. Grain is fo plenty there, that they do not ive above 16 Cops ot pence for one indeed weight of barley flour. - An ox is not worth above fix or feven florins; a good hog 30 or 35 pence; and there is fo much fith in the Jrtzs that a fturgeon of 40 or 50 pound weight is not worth above five pence or fix pence; and they are fo fat withal, that the furface of the wa- ter they are boiled in fhall be above an inch thick of greafe. This coun- try, in like manner, produces a num- ber of elks, ftags, deer, and the like ; hares, pheafants, partridges, fwans, wild-geefe, ducks, ftorks, and all forts of game, which are cheaper than butchers meat. For the reft this city is provided with a good gar- rifon of regular troops, and can fend above gooo men into the field, at the firft order of his Czarian Majefty. Here arealfo fome thoufands of Tar- tars who are bound to ferve his Ma- jefty on horfeback, when occafion re- uires. The hoards of the Calmucs and Coffacs that depend upon the Te/f- cham or chief of the Bugarian Tar- tars, commit frequent depredations fratiers ypon the Czar’s frontiers, as well as 2K By EAL 6 thofe of Ufimir.and Bashir, but the 1692. garrifon of Tobol is prefently at their “VW if heels. In this city there is a metro- politan, who is fent from Mo/cow, and has jurifdiction over all the clergy of S7zbéria and Dauria. It is now about an hundred years fince this city and all Szber7a became fubje&t to his Czarian Majefty, and that, after the following manner. A certain pyrate, whofe name was “teremak Timofeiewitz, having great- 7,2, ¢3. ly haraffed and ruined certain lands beria was belonging to the Czar Ivan Wafile- "(aed witz, to the great damage of his dence of fubjects, and underftanding the troops #4 Czar. of that Prince were advancing to- wards him, he haftened back again up the Kama with his companions, and then entered the Sufawaia,which falls into this river, and retired to the jurifdiction of the Lord of S¢ro- ginof, a very great landed man, who was poffefled of all the land of the river for 20 German leagues about. He implored the protection of the grandfather of this Lord, and upon that condition offered to fubdue all Siberia to the power of the Czar, in recompence for the evils he had inflicted on his fubje@s. This Lord accordingly fupply’d him with the veffels, arms and artificers, he might want for his expedition,and promifed he would obtain his pardon. Fraught with this, he embarked with his companions, and went up the river Serebrenkot, which comes from ‘the north-eaft of the mountains of Wer- gotur, and falls. into the Sufawaia. He then caufed his people to march by land to the river of agin, which went down quite to the Yura, pof- fefled himfelf of the fortrefs of Tu- méen, which ftands upon that river, where he flew all he met, thén he returned up the Tobol quite to the city of that name, where he found a Tartar Prince of twelve years old, and called A/tanas Kutzjumowitz, whofe grand{on is at prefent at Mo/- cow, and honoured with the title of Czarowitz of Siberia; he pofiefied himfelf of this place, which he for- tified, and fent the young Prince pri- foner to Mofcow. After p a a BS thei " SSSA wy a SSS SE ——— Sa —S=—>= Soe is ——s ee ee = _—— SaaS = sepeanegee tee avpgentioegy <: : SG ° ¢ | 3 inne Saige eee: Sone) ete CORN LS v ie PREY NY | a 1692. After this train of fuccefles, this vV™ Corfair went down the Irtis, and was attacked in the night by a party of Tartars, at no great diftance from Tobol. In this fkirmith he loft the beft pare of his people, and endea- vouring to jump out of one veffel into another, he feil into the river and was drowned, and his body hur- ried away by: the rapidity of the {tream, was never afterwards found. ‘TheLord of S¢roginof had in the mean time fent to court, and obtained a pardon for Feremak; nor did they fail to fend troops to the places he | had taken, or to fortify them: thus | was it that Szderza fell under the power of the Mufcovite, who con- tinues ftill to be mafter of the fame. Scr The Tartars in Tobol, and many eruice O, rf the Tar. leagues about are all Mobammedans. tars. Mr. Isbrants was defirous to fee their ceremonies, and went with the Way- wod into one of their Mofchs, for without him he could have had no admiffion. They are furrounded with great windows which are left open, and the pavement is covered with a carpet without any other or- nament. As they go in they leave drawn by dogs, and how. jam. Arrival at Surgut. pie bel We HIS Minifter departed from To vey x bol upon the twenty fecond, hav- ing provided himfelf with veffels and larly with a good guard: thus he fell which are feveral villages inhabited by Tartars and Oftiacs, and among the reft Demianskot, ‘famin, and o- thers, where the {mall river of Pen- nouka falls into the Irtzs, Upon the twenty eighth, he arrived at Samo- roskoi-jam, where he changed his rowers, and raifed mafts in the larger every thing neceflary, and particu- down the /rfzs, upon the fhores of’ their fhoes at the door, and fit in 1692. order and crofs-legged. The Mufu~v w appears in a ftuff of white cotton; and has'a white turban on his head; He whifpered to one that was pre- fent, who cryd out aloud, upon which they were all on their knees: The Mufti then muttered fome words, and cry’d, Alla, Alla, Mohammed, and the reft did the fame after him, bow- ing three times down to the ground. He then fixed his eyes upon his hands, as if to read fomething, and cry’d out a fecond time, A/a, Alla, Mohammed. This, done he looked back over his right fhoulder, and then over his left, without faying a word, and all that were prefent obferving to do the fame, the fervice was at an end, This Mufti was by birth an Arad, and in very high efteem among them, infomuch that they had a particular value for every body that underftood or could read 4rabic for his fake. He invited the envoy to his houfe near the Mo/ch, and entertained him with tea, In thefe parts are great numbers of Calmuc flaves, and even fome defcendants of Princes who were formerly made prifoners. CHAP. Xx. Departure from Tobol. Defcription of the Irtis. Sledges Departure from Samoroskoi- vefiels to be able to fail up the Ody, when the wind fhould be favourable, the Irtis falling into this river by fe- veral openings not far from Samo- roskot-jam. 3 The water of the Irtis is white Defrip- and light, and comes from the moun- nee the tains in the country of the Calmucs. This river runs from the fouth to the north-eaft, and pafles through the two lakes of Kebak and Suzan. To the fouth-eaft it is bordered by lofty mountains, which are crowned with cedars, and the land on the o- ther 104 1692. feet ROA VIR LS of ther fide, to the north-weft, | is low \-v™~ and full of pafture grounds, where are great black bears, wolves, foxes, red and grey; and upon the banks of the river of Kafimka, which dif- charges itfelf into the Ody, not very far from Samoroskot-jam, are the fin- eft grey furs of all Szberia, except- ing thofe in the woods of Heetkoi- Wollok, we have mentioned before. The inhabitants told him that, the Adventureantumn before, there came a great of a bear. Inbabi- tants of the banks of the Irtis. bear into a ftable, which looked up- on a meadow,whence he took a cow, holding her between his fore-paws, and walking upon his hind: that the people of the houfe and their neagh- bours, hearing the noife the cow made, ran to fee what was the mat- ter, and fell upon Bruyn who would not part with his hold, till they fhot at him, and killed the cow. Moft of the inhabitants in this part are Ruffans in the pay of his Czarian Majefty, and who are oblig- ed to furnifh the waivodes fent thi- ther, and all thofe that travel into S7berza, upon the Prince’s bufinefs, this Is not atall likely. with carriages and guides, as well 1692. to go by water in fummer as upon “WwW the ice in winter, as far as the city of Surgut upon the Ody, at reafon- ablerates. Itisremarkable of them, that they keep a great number of dogs to draw their fledges in the winter, feeing they cannot ufe horfes on account of the depth of the fnow, which is fometimes a fathom deep upon the Ody. They put two of thofe dogs to a gripes very light fledge, upon which they drawn by may load two or three hundred“%* weight, and neither the dogs nor the fledge make the leaft impreffion in the {fnow. ‘The inhabitants pre- tend there are fome of thefe dogs that have a fore-knowledge of when they are co be imploy’d, and that up- on thefe occafions they meet in the night and keep a terrible howling, whence their mafters conclude they are to have ftrangers among them;but When they travel, their guides have a gun upon their fhoulder,and certain long fhoes upon their feet fit to run with upon ee ee ee the | CORNELIUS (Le, BRU YN 1692. the fnow. They fornetimes go with “v™ their dogs to hunt in the woods, where they fometimes meet with fine black foxes, whofe {kins they keep, and give the flefh‘to their dogs; fo that they at once reap fervice and phe! ha profit by them, Thefe dogs are of a middling fize, with fharp nofes, and pointed ears which prick up, and turn-up tails, like wolves or foxes; and indeed they may be eafily mifta- ken for fuch in the woods, they are fo much alike. It is certain that they often mix together, and that they appear in the neighbourhood of villages when preparations are making to hunt. | Peis Upon the twenty ninth of Fuly, marofkoi. this minifter departed from Samaros- jam. kot-jam, and with two veflels went down the principal branch of the Jr- tis towards the Ody, where he arriv- ed the nextday. On the eaft-fide of this river there are mountains, and on the weft meadow grounds which reach beyond the fight, and in this place the river is a good half league in breadth. Upon the fxzh of Augu/t he arriv- ed at Surgut, which ftands upon the eaft-fide of thisriver. In thefe parts, up thecountry to the eaft-ward, and as you go up the Obdy from Surgut quite to the city of Narum are very fine fables, as well of a pale brown as a black; as alfo the fineft ermins of all Siberia, and even of all Ruffia, and black foxes of unfpeakable beau- ty; the fineft of which are fet apart for his Czarian Majefty, and are fome- times valued at 2 or 300 rubles a piece: Some of them, in this colour, exceed the fineft fables of Dauria. They take them with dogs, upon which take the following ftory as it was related to our author by the in- habitants. | | A black fox, of the fineft fort, ap- pearing in the beginning of the year before, in full day time, near Surgut, was purfued by a peafant who had dogs of the fame colour. The fox finding he could not efcape, turned fuddenly towards the dogs with an air of courtefy,and laid himfelf upon his back, and began to lick their chops; VOL. Arrival at the town of Surgut. Adventure and cun- ning of a fox. _ Pe te ee iy BARA ll. Vet ee RS DOW Lens aS PTR Rae Gr teh a, na) sia Mieco cal 1 f ae Wines POM eS as 106 after which he began to runand play 1693. with them, thedogsall the time of- ~V~. fering him no violence: at length watching the opportunity, he flunk into the woods, where the country- man, who had no fire-arms, foon loft fight of him, as well as the hopes he had had of fo rich a booty. This fox, two days afterwards, re+ turned to the fame place, when the country-man feeing him again, went after him a fecond time with the fame dogs, and a white one that he had obferved to exceed all the reft in cunning: the black dogs having al- lured him once more among them, the white one who knew him bet-' ter than the reft; made flily towards him, and would then have jumped upon him, but the fox gave a {pring on one fide, and made his efcape a fecond time\into the woods. After this the country-man black- ned his white dog that the fox might not know him again, and going back to the woods, this dog foon found him out; at length the fox taking him for one of his black compani- ons, came to him to play with him, and thereby fell into the {nare prepar- ed to deceive him; for the dog feized on him to the great joy of his mafter, who fold his fkin for 100 rubles. They have here alfo foxes that are but half black, and mixed with grey, but it is feldom they take any that are all black; as for the red fort, they are here“in abundance. — This , oionipdlen country abounds alfo in otters and of szers. beavers; the former living only up- on prey. are very dangerous creatures ; they climb up trees, and there take their ftand till they fee an elk, a ftag, a deer, a hare, going by, when fpring- ing upon them, they never leave them till they have killed them, af- ter which they devour them. A waiwode who had one of them alive, fent him into the river, and two dogs after him; but finding himfelf pur- fued, he flew at the head of the firft dog, and held him under water till he was drowned; and then made towards the other, who had met with . the fame fate, if they had not been at hand to fave him. ? Ee They " Uers. 106 Tee TRAV ELS. of 1692. They tell very extraordinary fto- i-vN/ ries, and fuch as feem to deferve no Of tea great: credit concerning the beavers, that have their holes and burroughs . along the banks of this river, in the . lefs frequented places, and where .. there is the moft fifh, which is what Incredible they chiefly live upon. They pre- ‘ath op tend that thefe creatures meet toge- thefe crea- ther by pairs in the {pring, and form tures. ¢hemfelves into a neighbourhood; that after this they take prifoners of their own kind, and drag them to their holes or houfes to ferve them as flaves; that they fell trees by gnawing them beneath, and remove them to their abodes, where they cut off branches of a certain length, which they ufe to fecure the ftore they lay up in fummer, when their females bring forth their young. They add, that after this, thefe crea- tures meet a fecond time, and that after having brought down a tree, of fometimes an ell in circumference, ‘they reduce it to the length of two “wey, fathom, and then float it along to -. + their habitations, before which they raife it up to the depth of an ell, pi Shea without touching the bottom, and 1692. place it in fo exaG@ an equilibrium,~V~ that neither the ftrength of the winds nor the force of the waters may di- fturb it. Tho’ this may appear fu- pernatural, this minifter affures us the thing was confirmed to him by all Szberia, and many others, con- cerning thefe creatures, which he has ftudioufly fuppreffed, becaufe to him they feemed incredible, and more bordering upon human reafon, than the nature of brutes. Indeed he adds, there are many people in. the country who attribute the erection of this tree to the magic of the Ofizacs, and other Heathens in thofe parts; but that it is certain the country people know how to diftin- guifh between thefe creatures, as whether they be mafters or flaves, thefe being thinner, and their coats worn to the ftumps with working. The Rufians and Offzacs who hunt them, never deftroy a whole fet, and are always mindful to leave a male and a female behind them for pro- creation, i CabA Peo XXL Arrival at Narum. Defcription of the Oftiacs; their reli- gion, and the like. The Oby abounds with fifh ; its fhores uncultivated. 2 AVING been fome time mount- ing the Ody, fometimes by the shelp of the fail, fometimes by the flow labour of the tow-line, Mr. Isbrants, upon the thirteenth of Au- guft, thwarted the mouth of the ri- ver of Wagga, which falls down from the mountains of Trugan, whence it has its fource. It is a great river whofe waters are of a brown black, and empties itfelf. in- to the Ody, to the north-north-weft, Narum? below Narum, a {mall city where he arrived upon the fwenty fourth. It ftands on the river fide, in a fine 3 country, and is defended by a cita- del with a good garrifon of Coffacks. This part {warms with foxes, black, grey, and red, beavers, ermins, fables, andthe dike.7 Js : The banks of the Ody are hither- Dejripsion to inhabited’ by a people called O-%. the Os, ftiacs, who worfhip idols, tho’ they 274-2 at the fame time acknowledge there of their is a God in heaven, to whom they’s!"- notwithftanding pay no adoration, They have idols of wood and idols of earth, in human form, which they fafhion with their own hands, and which fuch of them as can af- | ford a) 3 4 r B ., , ee ns Sf Or A ee ox bt ol SS ee ee en ee ee eS ee GOORNELIUS 1692. ford it clothe in filk, in imication of “V™ the Rufian habit. Thefe idols ftand in their cabbins, which are of the bark of trees, few’d together with the guts of deer, and have on one fide of them, bundles of hair, and a little bucket full of a fort of broth, of which they give them every day with a fpoon made on purpole, which conftantly running down the corners of the mouth, has an effect very difagreeable to the fight. When they worfhip thefe idols, or pray to them, they ftand upright, and make {trange motions with the head, with- out bowing the body at all, and keep a noife like thofe who call dogs. They call thefe idols Saitan, a name not very wide from Satan. It happen’d that fome, of thefe Ofiacs being on board of Mr. Isbrant’s vef- fel, he fhewed them a bear contriv- ed at Nuremberg, which by {fprings could beat a drum, and at the fame time move both head and eyes. When they beheld this, and faw that it began to‘move, they fell to fing- ing and dancing, and paid all the worthip they ufually did to their Satan, faying this was a true Saz- tan, very different from thofe they made, and that if they had fuch a one, they would clothe him in the fineft fables, and the {kin of the black fox. They then afked if it was to be fold; but itwas taken out of their 5 trange machine. fight to put an end to their idola- trous behaviour. Marriages ‘Thefe Offzacs marry as many wives of the O- ag they can maintain, and make no ftiacs. * jf {cruple to wed with their neareft re- lations. © When death fnatches a friend from them, they lament about the body for fome days without ceaf- ing, with their head covered up,and on their knees, without feeing any body, and then they carry it to the grave upon poles. They are very Their fa- poor, and in fummer live in mife- mera. vable huts; but they might eafily better their condition, the country TheOby Bbout the Ody affording plenty of abounds furs, and the river itfelf ftore of fith, with file. WE eBeReU VoRe and efpecially fturgeon, a fcore of 1692: - the largeft of which they will give“VWS , for three penny-worth of tobacco. | eee ‘% But they are too lazy to work, and ea m feek. after no more than what may ferve them for a miferable fubfiftencé \ ae, in the winter, "1 They eat hatdly any thing but fith when they travel,and efpecially when they are fifhing. They are of mid- ‘ dling ftature, with hair either fair or f K 107 red, and with broad flat faces and nofes. They are not at all given to Bie war, and know nothing oftheufeof arms; tho’ they have both bows and arrows for hunting, but they are not dextrous with them. They cover Ge def themfelves with the fkins of certain % #¢. fifh, and particularly with that of ~~” the fturgeon, and have no manner oflinnen. Their ftockings and fhoes are all of a piece, and over all they wear a fhort kind of loofe waiftcoat, to which they faften a kind of cap, : which they pull over their head -. when it rains. Their thoes which — - are alfo of fifh fkin, are not water- proof, fo that they are always wet ; fhod. Without any feeming pain ; they undergo all the rigors of a moft'~ frightful cold upon the water, clad no otherwife than has been defcribed, except the winter prove a very hard one indeed, and in that cafe they put on two of the loofe waiftcoats above. And when this happens, it is a kind of an era with them, afk- ing each other, if they do not re- member the winter when they wore two waiftcoats? They wear but one when they hunt in winter, and never cover their breafts, ima- gining they fhall fufficiently heat themfelves with running up and down on the fnow with fledge fhoes. | But when they happen to be over- ee perifa taken with an extraordinary froft, jc), which they are unable to withftand, they ftrip themfelves as faft as they can, and bury themfelves deep in the fnow, that they may dye the fooner, and with the lefs pain. Much behave to 1c8 , The TROVE, LB of 1692. 3 7 1692 wey ls i Much as the men drefs, fo drefs the women, whofe chief diverfion is hunting the bear. Upon this occa- Oftiacs fion they go in companies, but arm- how theY od no otherwife than with a kind of a bear they a. {harp knife made faft to the end of bavebunt-a ftaff about fix foot long. When ee’ “hey have killed a bear, they cut off his head, and hanging it up to a tree, they run about it, and pay it great honours. ‘The fame they do about his body, afking him, Who was it killed thee? The Ruffians, fay they themfelves, Who was it cut of thy head? It was the ax of a Ruffian. Who ript up thy belly? ’Twas the knife of a Ruffian. Ina word,what- ever they do to this creature, they throw upon the Ru/ffians. Petty They have petty Princes among Prints. them, one of which called Knez Kurza Muganak came on board to fee Mr. Isbrants. ‘This man was ap- pointed over fome hundreds of cab- bins, and gathered the tribute thefe people are obliged to pay to his Cza- rian Majefty’s waiwodes. He came with all his train; brought him a prefent of frefh fifth, and returned with an exchange of brandy and to- bacco, with which he feemed to be highly pleafed. He came a fecond time to invite this minifter to his palace; and Mr. Isbrants having the gp gurhor curiofity to accept of this invitation, vifis one he went and was received by the”: Knez himfelf,who in perfon did the honours of his houfe, into which he conducted him. It was made of the Defription barks of trees, like the other cab-% pos bins, but not extremely well fewed ji” together. Mr. Ishrants here faw four of this Prince’s wives, the youngeft had on a red cloth petti- coat, with a good deal of coral and glafs about her neck and her waift, as alfo in the treffes of her hair,which hung down on each fide, and upon her 1692. wy™) The fur- niture. Manner of Jmoaking. _ Their man- mers. Their em- barkations. ee CORNELIUS Ee BRGY WN her fhoulders ; fhe had great rings or buckles in her ears, from whence hung ftrings of coral beads. Thefe Ladies, each of them, offered him a little tub, made of bark, full of dry'd fifh, and the youngeft a tub of fturgeon, yellow as gold itfelf; in return for which he regaled them with brandy and tobacco, which are great delicacies with them. This cabbin had no other furniture than fome cradles, and trunks made of bark, in which were their beds, full of wood-duft, as foft as down itfelf. The cradles were at the end of the cabbin, full of naked children, and the fire was in the midft. There was no kitchen utenfils, fave one copper kettle, and fome others of bark, which they can never ufe, but when there is no flame. When they {moak, to which they are much addicted, both men and women, they take a mouthful of water, and {wallow the fmoke of the tobacco with it. This affects them in fuch fort, that they fall down, and lye for fome time on the ground infenfible, with their eyes open, and foaming at the mouth like thofe in the falling. ficknefs; fome of them even dye in this condition; fome- times they fall into the river, or in- to the fire, and there come toa mi- ferable end, and fometimes they are quite fuffocated to death with this {moke. They fall into a great pafiion, if any mention be made of their rela- tions, nor can they bear to hear them fo much as named, tho’ they may have been dead for a long time. They are abfolutely ignorant of eve- ry thing that has paffed in the world before their time, and know not ei- ther howto read or to write. They in no degree apply themfelves to the culture of the earth, tho’ they are remarkably fond of bread. They have neither temples nor Vor. I, priefts. Their boats are made of the 1692. bark of trees, and the timbers and“Y™ frame-work within of very flight pieces of wood. They are two or three fathom in length,and not above anell broad; and yet they make a fhift to live it out in very bad wea- ther. In winter thefe Offiacs live Ter ba- bitations in winter. under ground, with an hole at the top of their caves for the fmoke to go outat. When it fnows, and they fleep naked about the fire, as their cuftom is, it often happens that they have one half of the body covered with fnow, and when they awake, they turn themfelves on the other fide towards the fire, and feel no in- convenience by it. When it happens that an Offzac is 7hei, jea- 109 jealous of his wife, he cuts away fome”4/. fur from the belly of a bear, and carries it to the perfon he fufpects to be great with his wife. When the party is innocent, he accepts it; but when he is guilty, he fairly owns ir, and comes to an amicable agreement with the hufband for the price of his wife. Nor dare they act otherwife, perfuaded, that if any man fhould prefume to accept of the hair, and at the fame time be guilty, the bear from whom the hair is cut, would | devour him before three days were atanend. Upon the fame occafions, they alfo prefent bows and arrows, hatchets and knives, not doubting but thofe who accept them under the circumftances of guilt, muft come to an untimely end in a few days. This is what they unanimoufly af- firm, and is confirmed by the Ru/i- ans who live in thofe parts: but e- nough has been faid of the Offzacs. The banks of the Ody, inhabited by Tt banis of the Oby unculti- them, lye uncultivated from the fea quite to the river of Tum, becaufe of vated. the exceflive cold, whence they pro- duce neither corn nor honey, nor ought elfe of fruit but the cones of cedars. Ff CHAP, i hat a ikl aie ia a Us elle el Cae ce ll L10 DOR OA BR § of Cor ty VALE Arrival at Makofskoi upon the Keta. Want of Provifions. Departure from Makofskoi. Defcription of the Keta. “Fourney continued by land. Jcription of that town. hae HH for fome weeks naviga- ¢ ed ted the Ody, and {pent fome He leaves time among the Offiacs, Mr. [sbrants, the Oby. upon the firft of September, arrived at the town of Keetskot upon the Keta, which falls north-weft into the Osby; upon ‘the fwenty-cighth, he came. to the monaftery of St. Ser- gius; and upon the third of Oétober to the village of Worozerkin, where Death of the fame day died of a fever, ‘fobn one of bis George Weltfel, of Slefwic, a painter, frais: sy che train of this minifter. Arrivalat Upon the feventh of Odfober, he Makoffkoi happily arrived at Makofskor, where we ids he buried the faid Welz/el upon an eminence onthe rivet fide. He was more tired, and fuffered more pain upon this river, than in all the reft of his journey ; for he was five weeks in going up it, without fetting eyes ona foul, except fome Offiacs, who immediately ran into the woods. Thefe O/iiacsare different from thofe along the banks of the Ody, and {peak another language, but are as much idolaters as they. | Inonveni. He faffered much ‘in this. paflage enty upon for want Of provifions, and efpecial- he Ket. 1 meal; for he had had no fupplies from the time he left Todo/, except- ing now and then fome freth fith. Tho’ it muft be confeffed, he would not at this time have been in want, had he been lefs liberal to the poor ~~ Oftiacs he had in his veffel, who fometimes towed her, tho’ they would have deferted their work, if they had not been well looked after ; for they were quite tired out, and accordingly deferted every day. And at laft they were fo thoroughly fpent, that they muft have funk under it, if help had not come from the go- vernor of “fenizeskot, who upon ap- plication, immediately fent to this Arrival at Jenizeskoi. De- Minifter’s affiftance, or he muf 1692. have {topped 30 leagues fhort of ~~u Makofskoi, and have been expofed to the danger of perifhing among the ice and {fnows; the banks of the Ke- ta being fo far deftitute of inhabitants. He had fcarce got from this vil- Departure lage, when this river, which is not Ma- navigable in winter, began to be ****- taken by the froft. It runs through a country full of woods and thickets, and winds, fo as frequently to aftonifh the traveller, when at night he per- ceives how near he is to the place he left at noon. This country abounds with heath-game, pheafants and partridges, and a pleafure it is to fee them in flocks drinking morn and even, upon the banks of the river, where, as you pafs by, you may kill what number you pleafe, which proved a great help to them in the fhortning of their provifions. ‘The foil here produces goofberries, both red and black, as alfo ftrawberries and rafberries; but the river affords no great ftore of fifth. | Near this place, in the mountains Tees and to the north-eaft, they find the teeth 2s ofthe and bones of a creature they calla" Mammut, and efpecially upon the banks of the Rivers of ‘fenifia, of Trugan, of Mongamfea, and of Lena, near ‘fabutskot, and quite to the icy ocean. And this chiefly happens when a great Thaw has ‘flooded this laft river, and the ice has torn away earth from the fides of the hills. Then in this earth frozen almoft quite to the bottom, they find car- cafes of this creature ; and efpecially when the thaw is not extreamly great indeed. A perfon who attended on the envoy, and who had been fe- veral years imployed in this refearch, affured him he had found the head of SSR i i os Se SR TN Se ee ee oe na ney, — age —— a Se eee a CORNEE FUSZF RP EUS RUYN lit 1692. of one of thefe Mammuts in fuch been a whole fummer expofed on 1692. vv ~ thawed grounds; that having fplicic the fhore, they find them fplit “~~ and opened it, he found the flefh al- moft all putrified, with teeth ftick- _ ing out like thofe of an elephant, and fo faft fer that he had much ado to pull them out. That after- wards meeting with a fore-quarter and black, and then they are good for nothing, whereas thofe that are entire and clean, areas goodas ivory. They carry them to all parts of Mu covy, where they make combs of them, and other pieces of work. of this creature, he carried a bone The fame fervant told him, that prodiginys of it to the city of Zrugan, and that he had found two teeth, in one and ae ammut. Different ‘There are different opinions con- Mr. Isbrants, fays, he never met agers cerning this animal. The akutes, with any body that had ever feen one the Mam- Fungufes and Oftiacs maintain he ne- of thefe Mammuts alive, nor ever any mut. yer comes forth from the bofom of onethatcould give him an exact de- the earth, and that he moves from fcription of their form. place to place under ground. They When this Gentleman had reach- He conti- even fay they fee the earth rife and ed the village of Makofskoi, he would ™ ” ; fink in when he is in motion, fo no longer expofe himfelf to perils on’na ~ that he leaves a confiderable trench the water, and refolved to perform behind him. They afflure moreover, the reft of his journey by land. Ha- that he dies as foon as he fees the ving travelled fixteen leagues in this light, that he never appears above manner, he, upon the twelfth of Oc- Arivalat the furface but by accident, whence ‘ober came to Fentzeskor, where he Jenizet it is that he is found dead upon ftaid fome time to repofe himfelf, — high banks, and that he is never and to wait for the fettling of the feen alive. winter feafon, that he might conti- The opinin But the Ruffians, who have been nue his journey in a fledge. In the of the Ruf now along time in Siberia, believe mean time he made preparation of voning tbe tHele Mammuts are creatures like every thing he might want, and had jam. elephants, except that their teeth are time enough to examine into every this bone was as thick as the mid- the fame head, which weighed about dle of an ordinary man, and in a word, that he obferved fomething that had the refemblance of blood about the neck of this creature. more hooked and clofer. They fay there was of them in this country before the flood, the climate in thofe early days being warmer than at prefent; and that their dead bodies being born away by the waters of the deluge,- were buried deep in the earth, and that the froft which has fo conftantly and intenfly frozen them up, has preferved them from utter decay, and in fhort, that it is owing to thaws they ever appear in fight, which bids fair enough to be the cafe. Nor indeed 1s it neceffary to make this out, for us to fuppole there has been any alteration in the climate of thefe parts, feeing that thefe bodies may have been brought hither by the waters which covered the whole face of the ‘earth at. thac time, When theteeth of this creature have 4 twelve hundred weight of Ruffia, or about four hundred weight German, fo that thefe creatures muft be of enormousdimenfions. For the reft, thing remarkable in the city. It borrows its name from the ri-De/riprion ver of Senifa, which arifing from 114! citys the fouth, crofles the Ka/muc moun- tains, and holds on almoft in a ftraic line to the northward, till ic difem- — bogues itfelf into the icy fea of Tar- tary, but not after the manner of the Ody, which difcharges itfelf into the bofom of its own waters, and runs from them into the fea. It is a full quarter of a league broad at this town. Its water is white and light, but produces no great quantity of fifh. About feven years ago the in- habitants of this place fitted out a fhip to go upon the whale-fifhery ; but fhe never returned, nor have they ever had any news of her fince. But the inhabitants of Fuguma, a town farther down the river, fend fhips | “y12 | The T ROAIV, BL St of 1692, fhips every year upon that expediti- L-y~Jon; however, they time it better than the others did, and confider when the wind blows the ice off the fhore, and fo fifh with fafety. The city of ‘Ffenizeskot is indifferently large, well fortified, and well peopled. Corn, butcher’s meat, and poultry abound there. Its jurifdiction extends over a great number of the heathen Tun- gufes, who inhabit along the Fenzfia, 1692. and the Tunguska, and the neigh- —~¥ bourhood about. They pay their tribute to his Czarian Majefty in all forts of furs. The cold is here fo intenfe, that the fruit-trees here pro- duce no fruit. They have nothing of the kind but red and black goofe- berries, and fome ftrawberries. EBB LEMEAS MBH ABH BITE EBH LBL BY BHABHA LEH GPa Pr Ge eet, O00 6 8 Departure from Jenizeskoi. Arrival at the ifle of Ribnoi; at Ilinskoi; and to the fall or catara& of Shamanskoi, or the Magician. Defcription of the 'Tungufes. 1693. ‘HE Envoy departed from ¥c- wa) nizeskot in a fledge, and upon Departure the twentieth of “fanuary, 1693, ar- from Jeni- rived at the iflandof Ridnoi or of Fi/h. re It ftands in the middle of the river of the ifle of Tunguska, and abounds in fith, efpe- Ribnol. cially in fturgeon and pike, of extra- ordinary fize, and is almoft wholly inhabited by Ruffans. Upon the ating, wenty-fifth he arrived at Ilinskor, koi. upon the river of J/nz, which rifes to the fouth-fouth-weftward, and dif- charges itfelf into the Tunguska, north-north-weft. To this place there are both Ruffians and Tungu/es upon the banks of this river. Shaman. At fomedays journey from hence, koi or che you meet with the great fall, cata- ae. ract, or torrent of water of Sha- cian. ‘manskot, or the Magician, fo called froma famous Shaman or Magician who there, takes up his abode. The fall of this torrent is half a league in extent, and the fides are high hills of rock, and all the bottom is rock: Terrible it is to behold, as may be perceived by the plate annexed; and makes a moft frightful noife as it falls among the rocks, fome of which ap- pear above, and fome are concealed below. When the air is ftill, ic is heard at the diftance of three Ger- man leagues around, The veflels wherewith they navi- yrg3, gate up this torrent, are often fix or “NY feven days in getting up, altho’ they ae of be quice light, and drawn up by cap- i are ex- ftanes, windlaffes, anchors and men. #2/4 upon Sometimes it happens that they fhall work a whole day, in places where the water is low, and the rocks are high, and not gain the length of the veffel, which is all the time in great danger. They unlade thefe veffels to go down, as well as to go up this tor- rent, and carry the goods by land till there is no longer any danger ; and the fall is fo precipitate, that they are feldom above twelve mi- nutes in going down. For the reft, there are but few either of the Ru/- fians or the Tungufés that are quite dextrous at this piece of navigation, tho’ they are provided with a rudder both fore and aft, and tho’ they have oars fhipped on each fide. The fteerfman direéts the men at the oars with the motion of an handkerchief, the noife being fo rude and boifte- rous, as to drown the human voice ; and befides this, they take care to have their veffel clofe covered up to prevent their fhipping the water that goes over them. However, there happens every year fome fad acci- dent eS, — | i 4 eB: I 4 $ 2 A & 52 . ie alae ees Rede a > lari a i SE RN BE 4A SAN ARES A Aalnse OAR Ae RR he ate es ae parecer Pi re an ee ay 3 Ry * ie apna eben es a else ate naa. ante tena eZ se. \\ ww NINN ANY WW UN SS SAT Hit ANN FS Ss SS SSS Ss see chaste Chiatte Ze LIE epee Lig Ey WY LLG LZ } | »)! SSS —S= SS = | | How be exercifes bis art. ‘imitates the noife of a bear. - * wre ew AE ADE EAL UD Ga WASALESUEVY whey eS ravens, fifhes, owls, griffins, hatch- ets, faws, fabres, knives, and the like, - which inade a ftrange fort of clinking and node. His feet and his legs -were covered with the fame, and his hand with two great bears paws made of iron. His cap was alfo hung with pieces of iron like his gown, and upon his fore-head he had a large pair of horns of the rein-deer, made alfo of iron. When he exer- cifes his diabolical art, he takes a drum in his left hand, and a flat fort of ftick in his right, covered with the fkin of the mountain moufe; then jumping firft upon one foot, and then upon the other, the pieces of iron make a moft frighful din;. he beats upon his drum at the fame time, and rolls his eyes, and This fine prelude over, he demands his rewards before he ftirs a ftep farther, towards the difcovery. of what the Vou. 1, : | - weawax EAMIUUIO WICH CONCCaIs THEIL privities, and is fomewhat like a fringe: The women wear their hair dreffed up with coral, to which they hang little iron figures. Upon their left arm they carry a kind of pot full of a fmoaking wood, which keeps the flies from biting them. Thefe infects fo fwarm upon theri- ver of Tunguska, that a man is obli- ged to cover over his face and his hands; but thefe pagans are fo ufed tothem, that they hardly feel them. They are fond of beauty, but have very odd notions about what it is; for to add thereto they quilt their, forehead, their cheeks and their chin, menss. with thread fteeped in a black greafe, which being afterwards withdrawn, leaves marks behind it, which are thought to be very great ornaments. And indeed, there are few of this people without them, but you will have a clearer idea of this matter by confulting the plate annexed. 3 G ¢g In N SSS ~ ANY AY N\\ AN A i CO R(N@E ‘LIU 2 ol & BR Ua. Tungufes want to ive of him, 1693. whether it be to help them to any “VJ thing that has been ftollen, or to tell. *’ 1693. dent or other for want of fkilful pi- ‘7V™ lots, who run upon the rocks, in it ne Which cafe there is no’ refource, and unskilful- they are either {wallowed up by the “ef furious torrent, or inevitably dath- ed to pieces againft the rocks: nor is it eafy to recover the dead bodies of thofe fo loft; tho’ on the fhore are many crofles erected at the pla- ces where fuch wrecks have happen- ed, and where the people have been buried. The water that flows hither from the northern ocean {wells this torrent in winter to that degree, that it is difficult to difcern any fall, fo that it was formerly croffed in fledges, but in fummoer it is very low. Tungues Some leagues from hence are lak numbers of Tungufes, and their fa- “e = txous Shaman or Magician. The great reputation of this impoftor ex- cited the curiofity of the Envoy to go to the place of his abode. He fays, he was a large made man, pret- ty far advanced in years, that he had tweive wives, and bluthed not Deferiptimfor his profeffion. This Shaman pea ¥” thewed his magical habit, and every article elfe he ufed in adting the magician: Firft a garment all hung about with irons, reprefenting the figures of all forts of animals, birds, ravens, fifhes, owls, griffins, hatch- ets, faws, fabres, knives, and the like, - which made a ftrange fort of clinking and noife. His feet and his legs were covered with the fame, and his hand with two great bears paws made of iron. His cap was alfo hung with pieces of iron like his gown, and upon his fore-head he had a large pair of horns of the rein-deer, How be made alfo of iron. When he exer- Fa Sil cifes his diabolical art, he takes a drum in his left hand, and a flat fort of ftick in his right, covered with the fkin of the mountain moufe; then jumping firft upon one foot, and then upon the other, the pieces of iron make a moft frighful din;. he beats upon his drum at the fame time, and rolls his eyes, and ‘imitates the noife of a bear. This fine prelude over, he demands his rewards before he ftirs a ftep farther, towards the difcovery of what the Vou. I, | them any thing elfe they want of him. ‘This done, he begins to {kip and to cry out again, till he perceives a blackbird perched upon his cabbin at the place where the f{moke goes out; laftly, he falls backward, as if deprived of his fenfes, and the bird flies away again. Inabouta quarter of an hour’s time he recovers him- felf, and declares what he was de- fired to tell, and what he fays never fails tohappen. ‘The drefs of this magician is fo heavy, that it is as much as a man can do to lift ic up 113 with one hand. This man was very Riches of rich in cattle, and thofe who came” mag ° e Cz to confult him, gave him whatever he had a mind to afk. Thefe Tungufes of Nifovier, are Defription heathens, robuft, and well made of % ”% body. They wear their long black hair, knotted behind, and which falls down upon their back like a horfe’s tail; their face is generally broad, but their nofe is not flat, and they have little eyes like the Kalmucs. Tungufes. Both men and women go naked in Weir dress fummer, excepting a leather about ?#/“”””- their middle which conceals their privities, and is fomewhat like a fringe: The women wear their hair dreffed up with coral, to which they hang little iron figures. Upon their left arm they carry a kind of pot full of a fmoaking wood, which keeps the flies from biting them. Thefe infects fo fwarm upon theri- ver of Tunguska, that a man is obli- ged to cover over his face and his hands; but thefe pagans are fo ufed tothem, that they hardly feel them. They are fond of beauty, but have very odd notions about what it is; for to add thereto they quilt theit $5, orna- forehead, their cheeks and their chin, ments. with thread fteeped in a black greafe, which being afterwards withdrawn, leaves marks behind it, which are thought to be very great ornaments. And indeed, there are few of this people without them, but you will have a clearer idea of this matter by confulting the plate annexed. Gg In . Cabane avec lIdote Their dref; _ 1 winter they wear undrefled in winter. {kins of the rein-deer, adorning the fore-part with horfe-hair, and the bottom with dogs-fkin, they have no ufe either of linen or woollen; they make themfelves a kind of rib- bon and thread of fith-fkin. Upon their heads alfo they wear the {kin of rein-deer with the horns on, and particularly when they are about to hunt that creature, whom by that means they get near, gliding along upon the grafs, till they are within reach, when they feldom fail to dif- patch him with their arrows. When they would divert them- felves, they form a ring, while one | is in the midft of them with a ftick | in his hand, with which he endea- | vours to ftrike the legs of the reft | as theyrun round him, and they a- void a blow fo artfully, chat it is | but feldom any of them feel the cudgel ; but ifat any time it happen that one of them receives a blow, Diverfion. le, nie Corps de keurs Amis Marts . C. Chiens pendus, d’ont ws se nourrissert. he is immediately ducked in the river. . ; They place the bodies of their dead ftark naked under a tree, and there leave them to rot, after which they bury their bones in the ground. ~ They have no priefts befides their Shaman or Magician; but they Magiciass have all of them wooden idols ina ides. their cabbins. Thefe idols are about half an ell in length, and in human fhape, and thefe they pretend to feed with the beft they have like the Oftiacs, and with as little cleanlinefs. Their cabbins, which are made De/ripsioz of the bark of birch, are, on the? jer outfide, adorned with tailsand mains” of horfes, with their bows and ar- rows, and moft of them with the dead bodies of puppies hung about them. They feed upon fith in fum- mer, and have boats of the bark of trees fewn together, big enough to hold feven or eight perfons; they are long, narrow, and without benches. | 4 - They ih ti fi COR NE DR UUS be BRU ¥ N. 118 1693. They row upon their knees with a fmall. ‘They fith in fummer, and 1693. “V™J double paddle or oar, which they hunt in winter, during which they “Ww hold by the middle, and handle very feed upon deer of feveral forts, and dextroufly, dipping all at once, the like. as well upon great rivers as upon COEDS IS KGS EIS IS EN CID RS RC GHA PP. xXx. Arrival at Buratskoi, and at Bulaganskoi. De/cription of the Burates, &c. Arrival at Jekutskoi; a Defcription of it. A burning Cavern. Departure from Jekutskoi. Arrival at the Lake of Baikal. Defcription of that Lake, &c. Arrivalat~ T'PON the firftof February, the arrows, when they are within reach ; Buratskoi. \_) Envoy arrived at the fortrefs fo that few of them efcape, every of Buratskot, upon the river Angara, {port{man being provided with thir- which falls into the lake of Bazkal, ty arrows. and is well inhabited bya people that © When they have finifhed thechafe, 4; 11, are heathens, and called Burates. during which it fometimes happens «pon shat 4rrivalat Upon the eleventh, he arrived at that they wound each other in the”. pugant Bylaganskoi ; where alfo the vales and low country are inhabited by thefe Burates,a people rich in cattle, Their beeves are very thick of hair, and their cabbins are low, made of wood, and covered with earth: They light their fire in the middle, and the fmoke goes out of a hole in the top of the building, They have no no- tion of agriculture, or of fruit grounds or gardens; and their villa- ges are for the moft part on the fides of rivers, whence they are not ufed to remove like the Tungufes, and o- thers of the heathen. On one fide of their doors, they have ftakes plant- ed in the ground, upon which they impale goats or fheep, and faften thereto alfo the fkins of horfes. Hunting of * In the {pring, they meet together in great numbers on horfeback, to hunt the ftag, the rein-deer, and o- ther wild beafts which they call 4- lavo. When they have fight of them at adiftance, they divide themfelves into troops and furround them; then they drive them together into a clofe body by degrees, and in this manner frequently hedge in fome hundreds of them, which they fhoot with their confufion of the attack, and fhoot their horfes, they look out, every one for his arrows, which they al- ways mark, and then they flea their game, drying the flefh of it, which they divide from the bones, .in the fun: And when this ftore is near upon exhaufted, they return again to their fport. This country {warms with fallow-deer, and efpecially in wild fheep, which upon the moun- tains are met with by thoufands. Buc there are few or no creatures that afford furs for 5 or 6 leagues abour, excepting fome bears and fome wolves. When it happens that among this people you want oxen, or camels to travel with to China, you mult agree with them for goods in exchange ; they have no notion of money in coin. They truck with you for pale fables, pewter or copper bafons, red cloths of Hamburgh, otter-fkins, filks of Perfia of all forts of colours, and gold and filver in ingots. In this manner you may buy an ox, which drefled, would weigh from 800 to 1000 weight, for the value of four p,ic¢ o¢ or five rubles; and a camel for thecareé. value 116 1693. lesa “ ne ee + ae The value of ten or a dozen, the rubles \-w™ being here eftimated at five livers as The fiature on Ruffia. and habit of the Bu- rates. Their The inhabitants of this country, as well men as women, are robuft and large of ftature ; havea face handfome enough in their way, and fomewhat refembling the Zartars of China. In the winter-time, both the one and the other wear gowns of fheep-{kin, with a great girdle, and a cap called Malachaven, which comes over their ears ; and in fum- mer they wear gowns of an ugly fort of a red cloth. For the reft, as they never wafh but upon the day they come into the world, and never pare their nails at all, they, if the expref- fion may be allowed, looklike a kind of Devils. The men wear a beard under their chin but pluck out all the reft ; the feams of their cloaths are adorn- ed with furs; their caps are of fox- {kin ; their gowns of a blue-cotton {tuff, pleated in the middle, and their boots are of {kins with the hair out- ermoft, The women wear coral, rings, and pieces of money in the treffes of their hair ; and the hair of the girls or maidens is in fnakes, that they look like furies. The women have their hair fal- maids and\ing down oneach fide, and adorned W0M C4. The place with all forts of figures in pewter ; and whenthey dye, they bury them with their beft cloaths, and a bow and anarrow. Their only worfhip is to make certain motions of the head, at certain times of the year, to the goats and fheep that are im- paled at their doors. The fame ho- nour they pay to the fun and moon, but upon their knees, with their hands joined together, tho’ without faying a word, or ufing any fort of verbal invocation. ‘They have priefts, which they put to death whenever they pleafe, and then bury them with money and cloaths, that they may go before them, and pray for them. When they are under a neceffity «here they of taking an oath among themfelves, fwear by oath. they repair to the lake of Bazkal, up- on a highmountain, which is facred with them, and which they may reach in two days journey: They 4 oR A VoORILES of are perfuaded they fhould never 1693. come down again alive, if they took. a falfe oath. ‘This mountain has for a long feries of years paft been in high veneration with them, and up- on it they make frequent offerings of cattle. In thefe parts they have the mufc Creatures creature, like thofe to be feen in aa a USR plate. without horns, but is darker, and with a head not very unlike the head of a wolf. His mufk is contained in a {mall bladder at the navel, co- vered with a little fort of down. The Chinefe call it Yebiam or the mufk-deer ; but befides that he has not the head of a deer, his teeth are like the tufks of a wild boar, except that they are hooked. Ic is not very unlike a deer” Martin, in his Chinefe atlas, ob- x is met ferves, that this creature, is in the™#? i country of Xanxz inthe neighbour- hood of the city of Lego; in that of Xenxi, and particularly in that of HHanchungfu; in the country of Suchuen ; in that of Paoningfa, and in the neighbourhood of Kzating, and the fortrefs of Tzemciven ; in ma- ny parts of the territory of Sunan, and other places to the weftward. The defcription he gives of it is curious enough: “ The mufk crea- “ ture, fays he, is not very unlike a young deer ; but he is of a deeper colour, and fo lazy, that it 1s as much as the hunters can do to “ roufe him, fo that he fuffers his throat to be cut without the leaft ftruggle or refiftance; they fave “* his blood, and are careful to keep “ it. Under his navel, he has a “ {mall bladder full of blood, and a “ certain coagulated and odoriferous “ fluid; this they take from him, ‘© then they fkin him and cut him in ee Dreces ina. “In order to make the beft musk, 7-7 jre the Chinefe take the hind quarters %”*- ‘< of this creature, from the kidneys, ““ which they bray with a little « blood in a ftone mortar, ‘till the “ whole becomeajelly, which they « dry, and with ir fill little cods, «* made of the skin of this fame crea~ © ture, «Tf CORNELIUS “ If they would have it of an in- ferior degree, tho’ at the fame time genuine and very good, they with- out diftintion pound and bray all “ the parts of this creature together, and reducing them to the confift- ence before-mentioned, which they mix with a little blood, they fill ** cods with it as before. ‘© Befides thefe two forts, they have athird, much efteemed alfo, tho’ not fo pure and good as the former. This is made of the fore- quarters of this creature, that is, from the head to the kidneys, which together with the reft, ferve to make common musk, fo that no part is loft, and all is good.” For the reft the Envoy pretends not to fay, whether or no the Bwrates, and the other favages their neigh- bours, practife with this creature, as the Chinefe do. Arrivalat Having made fome ftay among Jekatso this people, he went to ‘Fekutskoi, fription of Upon the river of Angara, which at. rifes from the lake of Bazkal, about 8 leagues off. This town, which has been but lately built, is flanked with good towers. Its fuburbs are very large, and corn, falt, butchers- meat and fifh, are there fo cheap, that they do not give above feven pence for an hundred weight of bar- ley, German weight. The country about is very fertile, andabounds in grain as far as Wergolenskor, which is only fome leagues diftant. The Ruffans in thefe parts have fome hundreds of villages, and are very careful to cultivate the land. Oppofite to this town, to the eaft- ward, there is a burning cavern, which has belched forth flame with a degree of violence for fome time paft, but at prefent nothing appears from it but a littlefmoke. The fire came out by a large fiffure, which Second Sat. Third fort. A burning CAVE Vou, I, LE PRuyN. $17 continues to be hot, as may be ex- 1693. perienced by thrufting a long ftick’'-~s Into it. There is alfo a fine monaftery on one fide of this town, in “the place where the ‘fakut, whence it derives its name, falls into the Aygara. In thefe parts they feel great earth- quakes, during the autumn {feafon, but they never do any damage. - Here the Envoy met with a Tai/- gata gp cha, or a Lord of the Mongales, Lord of the who had fubmitted himfelf to the /78**s. protection of their Czarian Majetties, and had embraced the Chri/tzan faith after the Greek rite. This Lord hada fifter who was a Hj. ppera nun after the Mongale profeffion, un of the who had alfo had fome inclination to Bie become a Chriftian. When fhe was talked to about it, fhe would fay fhe was convinced that the God of the Chriftians muft be a very mighty God, feeing he had driven theirs from out of paradife: That, how- zyp geiiep ever, atime would come, when he would return thither again, and that he would not be expelled a fecond time. When any of thefe religious or devoted women come intoa room, they do not falute any body, contrary to the cuftom of the Mongales; their order not indulging them in that fort of complaifance. She had a ftring of beads in her hand, which fhe was con- tinually counting with her fingers, and was attended by a Lama, or Mon- tama op gale prieft, who had a ftring of beads Mongale alfo in his hand, after the manner?” ofthe Mongales and Kalmucs, which he continually counted with her, and was continually moving his lips ~as a perfon that prayed to himfelf ; and had fo worn his thumb, his nail, and joints of his fingers, with turn- ing and telling his beads, that he had loft all feeling in them. Hh The eee . en eT eRe ee Piaen'=* 118 The TRA 1693. of Se a ee ee ee Dearne . Phe Envoy having refted himfelf pe Je fome time at ‘Fekutskoi, upon the kutskoi. firf? of May departed thence in a {ledge, and crofled the country, to the lake of Bazka/, where upon the tenth he arrived, and found it frozen over ftill. Having croffed it, he came into Lake of : : Baikal the country of Katania. This lake defribed. 5g about 6 German leagues in breadth, and 4o in length, and the ice upon it was 2 Dutch ells in thicknefs ; tho’ it be very dangerous, when it happens to {now, and the wind high at the fame time. Care muft par- ticularly be taken that the horfes be very well fhod for the purpofe, be- caufe the ice is very fmooth and flip- pery, and becaufe the {now is always driven off from it by the wind. Accidems There are in it alfo great holes, very - caufegby dangerous for travellers, when the pina 1 is high, and the horfes are not Mobs properly fhod, and into which they are frequently forced. The ice here alfo fometimes cracks with the vio- lence of gufts, and with a noife like - — . thunder; but is never long before it - joins and knits together again. The camels and oxen ufed in the py. 5.5 journey to China, mutt crofs thiscro/s this lake as they go from ‘fekutskor, and aleadte - : that they may be able fo to do, the oxen. | former have boots put on them, { which boots are fhod for the ice, . and very fharp irons ate put upon the hoofs of the others, without which they would not be able to. a ftand upon this {mooth flippery fur- face. For the reft, the water of this lakeis very {weet, tho’ at a diftance it appears to be as green and as clear as the ocean. In the breaks of the ice it has numbers of feals, which are black, whereas thofe in the white fea are of a mixed colour. This lake is full of fith, and particularly i {warms with fturgeon and pike, fome I of a eee tnt Sr Re gaara ie - > ‘4 1693. Strange fu- perftition about this lake. Departure from Ka- tania. COR NiBOL e's of which are of fuch fize, as to weigh two hundred of German weight. The only river that goes out of this lake is the Angara, which runs to the north-north-weft ; but there are fe- veral that fall into it, the chief of which is the Silinga, which rifes to the fouthward in the country of the Mongales ; befides fome brooks and rills thac fall into it from the rocks, nor-is it without fome iflands. Its borders, and the country round a- bout, are inhabited by Burates, Mon- gales, and Onkotes, and produce ve- ry fine black fables; befides that they here fometimes take a creature called Kaberdiner. It is particularly obfervable, with regard to this lake, that when you are near it, on the fide of the mo- naftery of St. Nicholas, which ftands in the place where the Angara goes out of the lake, the inhabitants are very {crupuloufly cautious in advi- LE.oB RR U-Y-N, 11g fing all travellers that are to crofs. ‘ the lake, by no means whatfoever to call it by the name of Ofer or Szzi/- Water, but a lake; for fear they pe- 1693. rifh by the violence of a ftorm, as . many have before them, who have been fo indifcreet as to call it Ofer; a caution which appeared fo ridicu- lous to the Envoy, that he called it fo as he went over it, without a- ny fear of what the inhabitants had fo predictively threatened him with ; and it happened, that in the midft of very fine weather he came to the caftleof Katana, the firft fortrefs in Cape of the province of Dauria, heartily Katania. commiferating the wild fuperftition of thefe poor people, who fear the wrath of the elements, inftead of putting their cruft in God, who is the Creator and the Lord of the whole world, and whom the winds and the elements obey. WAZ DNS RNS STS TSTONTIS CHA Piro XX. Departure from Katania. tion of that town and its dependencies. Arrival at the fortre/s of Jarauna. Defcription Udinskoi. Arrival at Udinskoi. Defcrip- Departure from of the people of that country. Arrival at Nerzinskoi. De/- cription of the town, and of the inhabitants round about. Ar- rival at Argunskoi, the laf? fortre/s belonging to the Czar on the fide of China. Its fituation. T HE next day, the Envoy de- parted from the caftle of Ka- tania, and upon the fwelfth, arrived at the great burg of Idmskor, or of Bolfot Saimka, moft of whofe inha- bitants are Rujfans, who in winter hunt for fables, the produc of the earth affording them no more than a bare fubfiftence, becaufe the coun- try is incumbered with barren hills. Upon the fourteenth he arrived at the caftle of Tanzinskot, where was a good garrifon of Coffacks, to make head againft the incurfions of the Mongales who inhabit upon the fron- tiers of that country. Upon the ae nineteenth, he arrived at Udinskot, a toi. town feated upon a high hill, at the foot of which moft of the inha- bitants take up their abode, under the cannon of that fortrefs, along the river Uda, which falls into the S7- | linga, oa - 4 : ; , es ig F ‘ pe GR ok 1693. linga, a quarter of a league below ury~n the town, in which there is alfo a good garrifon of Ruffian Coffacks to watch the motions of the Mongales. This town, which is the key of the province of Dauria, is very much expofed, even in the fummer time, tothe ravages of the Mongales, who often carry off horfes as Defeription they feed in the meadows. The of its foil. and, which is there very mountain- ous, is fit for no fort of tillage, tho’ it abounds in cabbages, carrots, tur- nips, and fuch like vegetable pro- ductions; but no trees have as yet been planted here to this day. An earth. ere, about nine at night, the quake. Envoy was furprized with a great earthquake, which in the {pace of an hour, fhook all the houfes three times, without doing any farther mifchief. The river of Uda produces little or no fifh, if you except pike and roach; but every day in the month of Fuly, there are prodigious fhoals of a certain fort of fith which they call Omuli, and which {wim up this river from the lake of Bazkal. Thefe Omuli are of the fize of an herring, and hardly ever appear beyond this town, at the foot of a crumbled hill, where they ftay only for a few days, and then {wim back again to the Jake. They take great quanti- ties of them, by only throwing of facks in the river, and thefe facks are frequently as full as they can hold. The Envoy was obliged to ftay here ull the fxtb of April, to provide himfelf with camels and horfes. Upon the twenty fixth he went by land to the river of Oza, which comes from the north-north-weft, and falls into the Uda. \ _ Upon the twenty Jeventh, he reach- ed the river of Kurba, whofe fource is to the north-north-weft, and in like manner difcharges itfelf into the Uda. He ikirted this river towards its fpring, till he had got to the middle of it; he was frequently o- bliged to leave it at fome diftance, but never loft fight of it. Upon the ¢wenty ninth, he arrived 120 Jarauna : VELS of at the fortrefs of farauna, and was 1693- ravifhed to meet with towns again, “Ww after having croffed a defart country full of high rocks; anirkfome jour- ney, during which he faw no foul from the time he left Udinskor. This fortrefs is provided with a good garrifon of Coffacks, and here alfo are many Ru/fans, who fubfift by the fale of fables. The Konnz Tun= people of guf, the heathens who inhabit aq se coury. long the rivers of Tunguski and An- gara, fpread all over this country, and fpeak a language peculiar to themfelves. When they dye they are buried with their cloaths and their arrows, and ftones are put over their grave. ‘Then they plant a ftake, to which the beft horfe of the deceafed is tied, and there facrificed. They live by the fale of fable furs, which are perfectly fine in this country, and of an ad- mirable black. Here alfo are fine luxes, and a fort of fquirrels of a a black-grey, which the Chinefe were formerly wont to carry off with them. To the north of this fortrefs you fee three {mall lakes not far from each other, which, together, are 2 leagues in circum- ference, and abound with pike, carp, perch, and the like. From hence are two ways which lead to Zi- tinskot or Plabit/cha. The Envoy fent part of his fervants by the one, and the caravan advanced to the fouthward, fkirting it along the lake of Schakze Ofer, and then crofled the hills of fablufnoi, or of Apples; tho’ none grow there, and they produce no other than a kind of red fruit, which has fomething of the tafte of an apple. The o- ther way he took himfelf, with a train of fourteen followers, notwith- ftanding it was very moorifh, and that he was to go over lofty rocks, from farauna to Telimta. There yetimta. are numbers of Ru/fans in this -fortrefs, who-in the winter ‘feafon take fables of a very fine black, well fed, and equal to the very fi- neft in all Szberia, and the province of Dauria.” Here I %, he a GSE ABA ANS \ ZE_ WK ibe ee eee, a ee Sree A ee ene ae ethene pate pram onl ages nee ne Ae = nase | 132 ae 1693. by other rivers in Ruffa, to the great & wy~ damage of the revenues of his faid Majefty, it was forbidden to trade any longer in thofe S¢raits, and ordered that the faid goods and merchandife fhould come by Bere- fova, the Kamenskot, or the rocks | ; of Pyjas. This however is very | difficult, and very inconvenient, be- caufe in going from Berefova they are obliged to cut their little barks or canoes, for they are hollowed out of the trunk of a tree, into two, and to draw them thus over the mountains for feveral days; and when they have reached the very northernmoft parts of the country, .- they join them together again, and | proceed on their voyage to Arcb- | 7 angel, or to other places of Rufia fituated upon the Ody. The Envoy alfo went to the Po- "Po fas, which is a rock, or rather a chain of mountains of ftone, which begins at Petzerkaz, and extends without any difcontinuation acrofs the country of Wergatur, compre- hending alfo that of Wolk; and from thence to the fouth on the fide of the caftle of Urka, quite to the | country of the Ufian Tartars, trom whence iffues the river of the name of Ufi, and to the eaft of thofe of Nitra and of Tuna; the laft of which falls into the Kama to the north-weft. Thefe mountains then ftretch away fouthward towards the Defeription 4 Tartars of Uffi and Bafkir. HE inhabitants of the coun- try which extends between Pelin and Wergotur along the river Zufawaya, quite to the country of Ufi, are almoft all Heathens. ‘The The river river Of Kungur, in the neighbour- of Kungur, 5 Th TRAVELS of frontiers of the Calmucs, and the 1693: great river of “faika, which abounds “Y in fifth, comes out of it to the weft- ward, and goes and difcharges itfelf into the Cafpian: The Tobol alfo iffues out of it to the north- ward. They go on afterwards to the eaftward, along the country of the Calmucs and the frontiers of Siberia, on one fide of the two lakes of Saz/an and Kalkulan, from the firft of which iffues the Ody, and from the fecond the IJrizs, From this great lake of Kalculan, the Pya ftretches away again to the fouthward, from whence iffues the jentfia, whofe mouth is in the icy fea of Lartary. Thefe mountains then form an elbow, and afterwards divide into north-eaft and fouth; to the north- ward along the river.of Fentfia, and to the fouthward on one fide of the lake of Kofogol, from whence iflues the Szinga, which difem- bogues itfelf into that of Baikal, From thence this Pojas extends ftill farther to the fandy defart of the country of the Mongales, where having penetrated a great way, it again divides and ftretches on to the fouthward, quite to the great wall of Chima, and then eaftward quite to the Sea, as may be feen in the map of the travels of this Minifter. ESESIESIC NICS COSCON CIIC ESIC ISIC SCIONS ICSC IC SCCOCO CCC SCS. COPE A Pio REX. Other hoards. The towus of Tora and of Tomfkoi, the country round about, &c. gufes and the Burates, &c. the Koreili, and of other nations; of the \cy Cape; of _ the town of Jakutskoi, and the like. | The Tun- Defcription of Dauria, of hood of which are the Tartars of Ufi, has its fource in the coun- try of Uji, between: the Su/awaya and Ufa, and-goes on till ic throws itfelf into the Kama, upon which is the town of Kungur, where his Carian CORMEEL WSy Le BRU YN 133 1695. Czarian Majefiy has a garrifon. Thefe Tartars of Ufi and Baskir, 1695. V™4 Thefe Tartars of Ufi and thofe of are brave and good horfemen, andi eS Ui ad Baskir, are in the country about have no other arms than bows and be of Bakkir. the town of Offa, fcattered up and arrows, which they ufe with great fldiers. down in Hamlets and villages, built after the Ru/fian manner, to the weftward, quite to the Kama, and along the Wolga, and ftretches almoft quite to the cities of Sara- tof and Sarapul, upon the laft of thefe rivers, where the Czar alfo keeps garrifons to bridle the Tartars, and receive his duties which are paid in furs and honey. The go- vernors of thefe places, however, are obliged to be gentle with the inha- bitants of thefe parts, for fear they fhould revolt and withdraw them- {elves from the obedience they owe that Prince. dexterity. They are robuft; they are tall of ftature, with broad {houlders and great beards, which they fuffer to grow. Their eye- brows are fo thick they cover their eyes, and almoft all the forehead. They have a particular language of their own, and underftand that of the Tartars of Afiracan. As for their religion, they are almoft all Heathens, but fome of them are Mahometans, which is what they have had from the Crim Tartars, with whom they havé a very good underftanding. The Ca/mucs are he- tween the fprings of the Tob0/ and Other There arealfo other hoards of the the Ody, quite to the lake of Sfa- Late full Tariars. fame Tartars to the fouth-weft, and mufowa, which is all full of a rock % /4* in the kingdom of 4fracan, whoare falt. Hither from the town of To- free from {ubjection, and join with 40/ come yearly twenty or twenty- the Calmucs near them to fcour the five Docheniques, or Ruffian barks, country of Szberia. They never- up the Irtis, with a guard of 2500 thelefs cill the ground, and fow bar- men; and as this lake is at fome ley, oats and other grain, which they diftance from this river, they travel carry home, after they have reaped the reft of the way by land; they and threfhed it in the field. They cut this falt as it were ice upon have among them alfo the fineft the borders of the lake, and then honey in the world, and in very carry it off to their veffels, not- great abundance. They commonly withftanding all the oppofition of Tir Grefs ina Ruffian cloth, of alight the Calmucs, with whom they, up- df, grey, after the manner of the pea- on thefe occafions, have frequently fants of Mujcovy. Their women very {mart {kirmifhes. are commonly in their fhifts from the girdle upwards, except it be very cold indeed, and their fhifts are ftriped and worked with filk As you go down the Irtis, be- pyjerission neath this lake, upon the little ri-o Tora ver Jor, you meet with the town am of Tora, the laft frontier place be- zbous: of all forts of colours. As for the reft, they wear petticoats after the German fafhion, and Slippers which cover only the end of the foot tied about the ankle. Their head-drefs confifts of a ribbon, four fingers broad, tied behind, and wrought like their fhift with filk of various colours, and adorn- ed with coral and glafs beads, which hang about their eyes. Some of them wear them higher upon the forehead. When they go abroad they cover this drefs of their head with a {quare handkerchief, wrought with filk, and done round with fringe. Vou I. longing to the Czar, bordering up- on the dominions of a Ca/muc Prince called Buftu-chan. The inhabitants of this country are called Barabin/y, and it extends from the city of Tora, to the eaftward, quite to the Ody, over-againft the river of Tom, and the city of Tomskoi. They crofs the country of Barnabu, both winter and fummer, and efpecially in winter, becaufe in that feafon, the Ody is not navigable by Surgut and Narum, fo that travellers are obliged to go by Tomskoy and fenufeskot to go into Sz- beria. 'Thele Barabinfy, who are a kind of Calmucs, pay a tribute to Mm — his 134 ra RE YS of 1695. his Czarian Majefty, and to the men, drefs after the manner of the 1695. wv Prince Buftu-chan. They have Calmucs, and they are allowed tov three Chiefs or Tai/bi, who receive have as many wives as they can af- the duties impofed on them, and ford to maintain. When they go account with the Czar for the part out to hunt in the woods, they car- that is due to him; the firft at the ry withthem their Satan, which is Qheir idol. town of Tora, the fecond at the a wooden image coarfely cut out caftle of Teluwa, and the third at with a knife only, and covered with the caftle of Kulenba, the whole in ftuff of various colours, after the furs. They are a mifchievous and fafhion of the women of Ruffa, warlike people, who live in cabbins This Sataz is fhutup ina box, which in the woods, like the Tartars of they carry upon a particular fledge, Siberia. They make no ufe of and offer to it the firft fruits of their ftoves, but of chimneys or tubes, or chafe without diftinction. pipes rather, by which they let When it happens that they have pyejnt 10 out the fmoke, and which they ftop had good luck, they, upon their re- #er Sai- when the wood is burnt to a coal, turn, place this idol in the moft con-"™ to keep in the heat, and open them fpicuous part of their cabbin, 1n its again when it is over. box, andcover it over with the fineft Their bae "They live in a kind of villages, furs, in acknowledgment of the good bitations. under flight hutsin fummer, and in it has procured them, and there leave firm wooden cabbins in winter. They them to rot, being perfuaded they have tillage in ufe with them, and fhould be guilty of a facrilege in ta- they fow barley, oats, French wheat, king them away, or applying them and the like, but they have norye; to any other purpofe. though they do not refufe the bread Beyond the Ody, you come to Tomskoi. made of it when offered to them; Tomskoz, a frontier place belonging indeed they only chew it with feem- to his Czarian Majefty: it is a fine ing difguft, and as it were again{ft anda large city, well fortified, and ae the ftomach, and throw it away, or provided with a good garrifon of jad, ‘pit it out for the moft part. In- Ruffians and Coffacks, to withftand ftead of bread, they take clean bar- the incurfions and ravages of the ley, which they parch ina hot iron Siberian Tartars. In the fuburbs alfo, pot, till it become as hard as a ftone, beyond the river, there are a great and then eat itthefameday. They number of Buchar Tartars who pay make alfo flour of Saranaor roots of homage and tribute to this Prince. yellow lilies, of which they make a ‘This city ftands upon the river of ey oo broth ; and they drink a diftilled li- om, which rifes in the country of : ” quor made of mares milk, which the Ca/mucs. Here they drive agreat 7, ,, they call Kwmis; and Karaza, which trade with China, which is chiefly «wish Chi- is a black kind of tea, which the managed by the fubjects of the Chan Bolgares bring them. of Bufuchtu, and by the Buchars, Their ‘Chey have no other arms than among which we may reckon fome ams. — hows and atrows, no more than the Ruffian merchants. ‘They perform reftof the Tartars. Their cattlecon- the journey to Chzma in three months, fifts of horfes, camels, cows, and and come back again in the fame fheep, but they have no hogs. In_ time, but with inexpreflible difficul- a this country alfo they have all forts ty, becaufe in fome places it is even of furs, that is, fables, {quirrel-fkins, ermins, foxes, and the like. It ex- tends from Tora quite to the Oby, and here you meet with no moun- tains; but it is full of cedars, birch, alders, and woods, divided by ftreams, whofe water is clear as chryftal. Thefe people, as well men as wo- neceflary to load the camels with wood and water. You muft traverfe the country of the Ca/mucs, and go to Kokoton, a city belonging to China without the wall. But ic is impof- fible for the Ru/fans.and other ftrange nations to perform this journey, be- caufe the country {warms with rob- bers, CORNELIUS 1695. bers, who plunder all forts of tra- i~v™N) vellers, except they be well attended or guarded. As you go down the river from Tomskot, the country is abfolutely a defart, quite to the town of Fenz/é/- kot, flat and full of copfes. The fame it is between the two rivers of Kia and Zulim, quite to the towns of Kufneskot and Krafnajar, where the country 1s only inhabited upon the borders, adjoining to thofe of Country of the Kirgifes, under the dominion of He Kurgi-the Khan of Bufuchtu. 'The city of Krafnaar is a fortrefs, with a good garrifon of Coffacks fubje& to his Czarian Majefty, to withftand the ravages and incurfions of the Kzrg7- jes. And accordingly in the great market-place, before the Governor's palace, there are always twenty troo- pers well armed, and whofe horfesare faddled day and night. For tho’ the Kirgifes be at peace with the Szder7- ans, there is no great ftrefs or depen- dance upon this pacification, becaufe they frequently carry off by furprife, both the inhabitants and horfes, in the neighbourhood of this town, and in the villages round about. But the Coffacks often make them pay with exorbitant intereft for the da- mages they are guilty of in this frau- dulent manner. How far ‘Thefe Kirgifes extend to the fouth- they ex- eaftward quite to the country of wend. the Mongales, a warlike and robuft nation, tall of ftature, broad of face, and very much like the Calmucs. They are armed with bow and ar- row, and never go out upon any ex- pedition without fine coats of mail, and good launces, whofe points they trail almoft upon the ground when they are on horfeback. ‘They live for the moft part in the mountains,where they are out of all danger of being Their Jan-taken at unawares. ‘Their language guoge. differs but little from that of the Ca/- mucs, and they {peak thatalfo of the Tartars of Crim, which the Turks underftand. Tungus . From Kra/najar, as you go down vagy the Yenifia, quite to Fenifeskoi, the "country is inhabited by Tungu/es and Burates. 'The caftle of Ilimskoz is A defart country. Their aYMS» Lis iB Rwy MN 135 upon the frontiers of the Mongales, 1695. againft the Pojas, formerly mention- ““¥™ ed, between Yeni/esko: and the town of Selinginskot. This place, thus upon the frontiers of the Mongales, isnot large, but it is furnifhed with a good garrifon, confifting almoft all of horfe, to defend the weftern part of the country of the Mongales, from the Mirotty, Mily, and Burates, Tartars whoare dependant thereon. In the neighbourhood of this town, there grows a kind of fandal-wood, which is of an extraordinary degree of hardnefs. The Burates who are under the protection of his Czarian Majefty, lived formerly in the coun- try about Se/imginskoz, but ever fince they have been guilty of joining with the Mongales, at the inftigation of the Chinefe, they have been tranf{- planted into the country about the lake of Baikal, in the mountains, and there they pay their tribute to this Prince, which confifts of furs. There is a mountain which ex- tends from this town to the north- ward, quite to the lake of Bazkal, where are alfo fine fables and other furs. The country of the Mongales contains the whole extent between the lake of Kologol to the eaftward, quite to the great defart ; from thence, quite to the lake of Aongale, called Dway, and to the country of 4r- gum, and afterwards to the north- weftward quite to the rivers of Onon and Sikot, They live under three chiefs, who are brethren, the firft | of which is called Kuttugt, and 18 cpisr, o alfo the high-prieft of his nation :sbe Mon- The fecond is called Aziroi-Sain- 8 Chan, and has a perfect good under- ftanding with the firft; but the third, called EX, whofe frontiers butt up- on the territories of the weftern Tar- tars, is guilty of continual depreda- tions and ravages, robs and plunders quite to the great Chine/é wall, with- out even {paring the prefents which the Emperor of China yearly fends to the Yartars round about, to retain them in their fidelity towards him. The two others have thrown them- felves under the protection of this Prince, becaufe they ftand in fear of 2 the Caftle of Argum. esi jefty. They are a warlike people, or three repetitions, between two | yin? ie and in this place are able to bring earthen pots clofely ftopt up, with E four thoufand men into the field, a little wooden-pipe, and this makes 2 well mounted, and armed with bow a good fpirit, with which both men and arrow. Nor dare the Mongales and women fuddle till they have loft make any attempts upon them, but their fenfes. Their wives and their Terr w- in the night and by ftealth, to carry daughters mount a horfe as well as - ot Their ba- off their horfes and cattle. Inthe the men, and like them appear ae i winter they drefs themfelves in fkins, armed with bow and arrow. Inftead Mie or rather in the fleeces of theep, and of bread they eat the roots of yellow wear boots after the manner of the liliesdry’d, and makea kind of broth Chinefe. ‘Their caps have a broad of them when reduced to a meal or rim or border of fur, which they flour; but they profefs nothing of lift up and down according to the tillage or culture. There, as well weather; they have a girdle armed as elfewhere, they value thofe who with iron, four fingers in breadth, are wealthy, who carry on a con- with an arrow that ferves them for fiderable trade with the Targafi and a flute. They go with thehead bare the Xzxz, who are under the domi- and fhaved in the fummer, withon- nion of China. ‘This trade confifts ly one lock behind as the cuftom is chiefly in an exchange of furs for with the Chinefe, and wear a drefs blue cotton cloth, other forts of of blue Chinefe cloth, quilted with cloths and tobacco. They pretend cotton, but no fhirt. To conclude, to be defcended of thefe Targafi or they have naturally little orno beard, the orf, with whom they contrad 4 faces rather broad than not, and are alliances, and live with as friends. | not very unlike the Ca/mucs. Half aday’s journey from the caf- Tar When their ftore of provifions be- tle of Argum, in the mountains, chafe. — gins to grow fhort, theygoin hoards you meet with a filver mine fallen in, Their reli Others OF Not. gion. 4 a; bas au a ea - = | vy Prince Bufuchtu-Chan, who did them a deal of mifchief in the years 1688 and 1689. But we muft now return to the frontiers belonging to his Czarian Majefty, and firft to the caftle of Argum, which ftands to the weft of the river of that name. Ie is de- fended by a Ruffian garrifon, and the people round about are Konui Tun- gufes, and tributaries to his faid Ma- to hunt the ftag and the rein-deer, _ which they drive together and fur- round, and fhoot a great number, which they divide among them, for it very feldom happens that they mifs their aim. Their women drefs much as the men do, and the only difference to be perceived is, that they have two trefles of hair which fall upon their breaft on each fide. Polygamy is lawful among them, provided they take no more wives than they can keep; and they buy them without troubling their heads whether they have been poffefied by They believe there is 2 Pi 136 fe. TRAVELS of | tbe. the Calmucs, and particularly of the a God in Heaven, and yet they pay 1695. him no divine honours, nor addrefs any prayers to him, When they want to confult their Saztan or Ma- gician to know whether they {hall have fuccefs in a hunting match, or in any intended depredation, they go to him in the night beating upon a drum: And when they would re- create themfelves, they make a kind 77 4 ver ions . of arrack of mares milk, which they leave to turn, and then diftil at two and ftill fee feveral melting-places which the people of Nieuchen and Dauria have formerly made ufe of. — From hence quite to Ner/inskot the capital of Daurza, it is a ten days journey by land upon camels. It is a fine country divided into parcels Defeription by {mall rivers, where you meet with of Dauria. the fineft plants, and the moft beau- tiful flowers in the world; in the mountains and on the hills, and in the vales, you have grafs three foot high: But the country here lies uncultiva- ted, being in the pofleflion of Tar- tars, who are under the dominion of his Czarian Majefty. Having COR NE Leliesy bh BRGY N Having travelled 137 gree makes good this their preten- 1695. “\-~ country of Argum, and croffed the fion. | 169 5. through the Frontiers of Siberia and Chi- na. great river of Amur, towards that of Gorbifa, which is reckoned the com- mon boundary of the dominions of his Czarian Majefty, and thofe of the Emperor of China, whofe jurifdiction extends eaftward from that river quite to the fea, and that of the Czar weftward and northward, to the eaftward of the Gordi/a we met with the rivers of Zugur and Uda, which are to the northward of the Amur, and proceed till they difcharge them- felves into the Chinefe ocean, or the fea of Amur. They take a great many fables between thefe two ri- vers, whofe borders are inhabited by Defeription Tungufes, Alemuri, and Koreifi. It of the Koreifi. is likely thefe laft are originally from Coela, which is not very far off, and whither it is poffible to go ina few days with a fair wind. It is faid _ they came firft and fettled upon the banks of the Amur, and that in pro- cefs-of time they extended their li- mits. Thofe who live upon the fea- coaft, fubfift by fithing, and thofe who are farther up in the country, by hunting, with which they inrich themfelves, becaufe here they have the fineft furs in the whole world. This country is under the governor of Fakutskoi, who takes care to keepa good guard jn the woods, to prevent the Chinefe from fharing the fables that are there to be met with. The river of Ogofais to the north- ward of thefe two rivers, and be- tween them and the river of Uda are many whales upon the coatft, and even quite to the frozen cape, where there is alfo narwhale and feals in abundance. inhabited by the Xuxz and Koelzki, whofe language differs from that of the reft. Thofe who live upon the coaft are cloathed in feal-fkins, and live in holes under ground; but thofe who live farther up in the country are rich, and feed upon ve- nifon and raw fith, and make ufe of their own water to wafh themfelves with. For thereft, thefe are by no means a people to be trufted, and have no fenfe either of law or ho- nefty, Their only arms are flings, which they ufe with furprifing pow er and dexterity. They have fnow upon the ground for feven months of the year, and yet it falls only at the beginning of winter, nor is it there very deep. There is a gulf near Kam/fatka, where they take a prodigious quantity of the zarwhale and other creatures of the fea. As for the frozen cape, the far- Defripn:. ther it advances into the fea, theo othe more itis cutand formed into iflands and divided. ‘There is a paflage a litle above Kam/atka, where the landers Theinhabitants of the neighbour- zarwhale fifhers find their labour turn ofthefe ing iflands come every year to the toagoodaccount. One part of the perl’ banks of thefe two rivers. They inhabitants of Anadieskoi, and of are people of a good mein and af- Sabatha, are Xuxi and Koeliki; and pect, cloathed in rich furs, under the river of Salafia produces good which they wear a filk veft after the herring, fturgeon, Sterbeth and Neb- Perfian mode; large of ftature, and a. As you advance up into the with majeftic beards. They come country, you meet with {everal to buy women and maidens of the _houfes along the Szmanzko, inhabited Siberian Tartars; for they love the by Coffacks, in fubordination to his fex, andin exchange forthem, they Czarian Majefty, and who there col- give fables and black fox-fkins, which leét the duties the Tartars of thofe according to their account, abound parts pay to that Prince: And as it in their iflands. They even endea- is that part of all Szberta where they Their ori- your to perfuade the Ti ungufes of take the moft fables and Luxes along gin “Siberia to come and trade among the rivers, fo it is the moft heavily them, and give out that the country of Fakutskor was formerly theirs, and in truth their language in fome de- Vou. I laden with duties. vites call Sweetoinos or Holy Cape, is Na exceflive- The town of Kam- Other na- fatka, and all the coaft beyond, is”: . ? cape. The climate of excefiue the frozen cape, which the Mufco-«" 139 Th TRAVELIS! of 1695. exceffively cold, and it there freezes Their language partakes of that 1695. wnr~ with fuch violence, that the ifles of f{poken by the Mohammedan Tartars, a sa ice, driven by the winds, form high . who live in the territories of Tobol. ae thofe parts do for this purpofe planted to the northward by the make ufe of fmall leathern barks with Ruffians. ‘The fcurvy is a very com-— wonderful agility. ‘The inhabitants. mondifeafe among them ; but they in the neighbourhood of ‘fakutskoi, eafily cure themfelves of it, by eat- and the riverof Amur, are called %a- ing of raw fifh and Deugt:, which is kutes,and drefs ina manner peculiarto a kind of tar. themfelves. Their coats are almoft The Fukogates are another fort of Cufom of like thofe of the German fathion,and heathens who live in that country, Jako of furs of all forts of colours fewed and have a cuftom very peculiar pepard to a together, with a white border four with them, with regard to their re- their dad. 7 fingers broad of hind-fkin, and are lations whenthey dye; they take off open behind, and at the fides, but all the flefh, and drying the bones Their be- they wear no fhirts. They wear long of the fkeleton, they adorn it with ay hair, and believe there is a God in coral and glafs beads of all forts of heaven, who bleffes them with life, colours. They then carry it in pro- food, wives and children. Befides ceflion about their cabbins, and pay this, they once a year celebrate a it the very fame honours they pay great feftival, when they offer him to their idols. ‘The banks of the Kunis and arack. They even abftain Lena abound with teeth of the Mam-™ Lenz. from drink during the time it lafts, mut, and other bones of that crea- and light up great fires, which they ture, which come out of the moun- continually fprinkle on the eaft-fide tains and frozen grounds along the with thefe liquors, in which con- fides of that river, which are often | - fifts their whole offering or facrifice. tornaway by ice. Many fine rivers Funerals. When one of them happens to dye, from the fouthward come and fall Mountains of ice. mountains there, which look like firm land: The wind however fhatters them fometimes; and makes them fall to pieces, which joining with o- thers that are floating upon the fea, they form new mountains again. + Ic fometimes happens, that for two or three years together, this fea is frozen over, a remarkable inftance of which was known from the year 1694, to the year 1697. and are‘ originally of the country of Bolgar. Polygamy is alfo lawful a- mong them. They arechiefly drawn by ftags, which they even ride upon, and travel’ with them a great deal of ground in a little time. are a brave people, not deftitute of?” genius, and fond oftruth. And yet when it happens that the Governor of fakutskot, in whofe jurifdiction they are, does not keep a ftric&t hand The Lena The great river of Lena rifestothe over them, they commit all forts of nce oa fouthweftward near the lake of Baz- diforders, and are continually fcour- Jakut &a/, where Siberia is parted from ing the country about; but when he koi. Dauria. Upon this river you have keeps a heavy hand over them, they Leather the town of ‘fakutskor, from whence in f{ummer there are veffels which go for the fea-coaft and the openings of the cape of Sabathia, to Anadieskor, and to Kamfatka, to get the. nar- whale, and whale-oil. The Lartars they bury his neareft relation with him ; acuftom not unlike that of fome Indians, whofe wives attend their hufbands on the fatal pile, and burn with them, that they may not be feparated from them in the nexe world, | are obedient and peaceable, and are guilty of nothing amifs. On the con- trary, they love him, and would be forry to lofe him. They pretend to be defcended of the Mongales and the Kalmues, and to have been tran{- into this. The chief are the Wt- tim, the Olekina, and the Maja, in the neighbourhood of which they have fine black fables, and other furs in abundance, and efpecially the grey fort, which, in winter, they buy of the Tartars, after the rate of a > guage. They Their tem- - 1695. CORN Ef EP USE ESB RU YEN, a thoufand for three or four rubles. w“Vv™\ The country watered by the Maja The Jeni- fia, 1703. vn produces alfo all forts of grain, as well as the country towards the fource of the Lena, and particularly that of Wergolenskolfo and of Kirenga, which are very fertile, and whence the country of Fakutskoi fupplies it- felf with neceffaries for its fupport: And indeed, they do not give here a- bove ten pence or twelve pence for an hundred weight of rye: Cattle is as cheap in proportion, but then mo- ney is a great rarity there. The fea coaft between the Lena and the ‘fenifia, is unnavigable quite to the river of Taraida, becaufe it is always full of ice; but the country between the Taraida and ‘fenifia is inhabited by the Samoéds and heathen Tartar Tungufes, concerning whofe manner of living and religion, we have declared ourfelves already. As for the banks of the enifa which rifes to the fouthward :of Tartary, in the country of the Ka/mucs and Kirgifes, they are almoft all occu- pied by Rujffians. ‘Three fine rivers come here to difcharge themfelves, namely, the Wergnaja Tunguska, the Podkamenna Tunguska, and the Nifnaja Tunguska. ‘The banks of thefe rivers are inhabited by a fort of wild Tungufes, not very different from the Samoéds, except that they are larger of ftature, and more ro- buft: They are a turbulent people, and love to be at war with their 169+. neighbours. When thefe Tartars-NX0 make it rife to no lefs than one hun- dred; the chief of which are the Wolga, the Cirus or Kur, | and the Araxes; the two laft of which unite before they reach this fea, and then fallin it together, having firft brought away with them the waters of ma- ny others, as the Bu/frouw, the k- fay, the Koi-fu, the Kifilojen, the Lak, the Sems, the Nios, the Oxus, the Arxantes or Tanais, and the reft. This fea was formerly cal- led the fea of Hyrcania, and the fea of Bachu. ‘The Perfians call it the fea of Kolfum, and the fea of Afira- can: The Ruffans call it the fea of Ships fent Gualenskoi, or of Gevalienske : 'The Georgians, Sgwa, and. the Armeni- ans call it Soof. ‘Thofe who ‘chiefly from Muf-navigate this fea are the Rujians and covy. Nifa- waey. TAIRA VIEMLTS Turks. Tho’ the Czar of Mufcovy 1703. has. fent feveral veflels for that pur- ~vY of pofe to dffracan, under the convoy of one captain Meyer, who has been already mentioned, ‘the merchants chufe rather to freight the ordinary Ruffian vefiels, for the tranfportation of their goods from place to place, be- caufe. they are not fo fubject to leak; for otherwife they would be much fitter for the purpofe, and would perform the voyage twice as foon, if due care were taken. But they labour under another defect, which is, that they are not fo flat-bottom’d as the common imbarkations upon that fea, and therefore cannot bor- row fo near upon the coafts of Per- fia. and Nifawaey, where the others are fometimes obliged to winter. SNORE CHAP. XXXI. Situation of the country of Nifawaey. A great form. terrible duft. Arrival at Samathi. HERE are neither villages nor houfesto be met with up- on the coaft of Ni/awaey, which is low; fo that travellers are obliged to pitch tents there, or to go farther up into the country, juft as they think moft proper, and according to the ftay they are to make in thefe parts. The Arabs repair hither with camels’ and horfes, to meet travel- lers, and carry them to Sama/bt ; and as there happened to be feveral fhips in the port when we arrived, there wasa great crowdof us. Up- on the fwenty-/econd in the morning, we threw our nets into a {mall ri- ver, which empties itfelf into the fea at half a league from thence by two openings; but we caught no great matter, tho’ at certain times it be full of th, This river is cal- its name to this country; its {pring is in the mountains. Upon the twenty-third, the wind being at fouth-eaft, there failed five veflels for Afiracan. On board of thefe veffels feveral Armenian mer-_ chants imbarked with their goods, and I failed not to take this oppor- tunity of writing to my friends both there and at Mo/cow. | Thofe who are. concerned in car- rying away the goods and merchan- dife brought by fhipping upon this coaft, are either rads or Turks, who in fummer live under tents, and in winter, in villages a good diftance from the coaft. Upon the twenty-fourth, there went away feveral camels, laden with goods, with fome Ru/fian merchants who had travelled with us from Mofcow to Aftracan. The fame day 4 Arab led the Ni/awaey, and communicates i there robbed. CORN 'E*LeL UV IRR: BRU YS 1703. there came to.us an 4rab; who had “V™\ been ftripped of his horfe, and fome 14 prifoner, who mademe a prefent of 1703, two birds which the Mu/covites call ~vv rice he was bringing to fell, ‘by chree robbers, who upon this notice gi- | ven, were immediately purfued by ten or twelve perfons, but to no manner of purpofe. Karawayeke, and which are not ve+ ry unlike to young ‘herons, except that their plumage is black, or ofa. very deep blue. As thefe gentlemen’ came. to fee me every day, they alfo: poids About noon, there came ona great brought me a white Crane of extra- a “8""ttorm, which raifed fo great a duft ordinary fize and beauty. between the beach and the downs, The ftorm lafted all night, and that there was no. knowing whereto the officer of the cuftoms, who ar- go for thelter. Tho’ we had a pret- rived upon the twenty-/ixth, permit- ty large tent, f{upported by two good ted us to depart, as foon as he had poles, and well ftaked down to the fearched what we had. The next - ground, I withdrew from thenceto day we went away with above one the fea fide, where the duft wasnot hundred camels, ten horfes, ‘and fo great, becaufe the fand there was three affes, fkirting it along the fea wet; not to fay I was afraid the fide, whofe fhores we found to be in wind would blow: away our tent: the fame fhattered ftate, as where we And indeed the thing happened as I had fuffered fo much inconvenience. had dreaded, and we were glad to We crofled the four fmall rivers of cover our goods and baggage with it, Samoetia, Balballa, Buboelaetfha, by tying and fixing it down the beft - and Mordwa, proceeding on to the we could; and as the air was all fouthward. Upon this fhore they full of a thick cloud of fand, every have Jarge’creatures with fmall heads, one of us endeavoured to get under which they call fea dogs or ‘feals; fhelter, fome behind a fhatteredvef- fome of which are as big as horfes; fel that had fuffered fhipwreck, and and whofe {kin make admirable co- | others within her, a fad and dole- _vering for trunks, .In the feafon ful fight! This ftorm continued till when thefe creatures ingender, there night, when we got up ourtent a- are thoufands of them to-be feen‘on gain, and with labour and pains re- the fhores of Nifawaey. Having covered our bales which had been travelled four leagues, we went to buried under the fand. _ reft ourfelves in a plain beyond the Upon the twenty-fifth, certain Downs, half a league from the vil- merchants who had been twelve lage of Mordow, inhabited by Ara- days upon this coaft, departed hence bians, who are.in poor mud cabbins, for Samajfhi, attended by very fine {uch as we have formerly defcribed weather ; but we were obliged to thofe of the Zartars to have been. wait forthe officer of the cuftoms, Mordow, fignifies a marth, and in- to whom we were to pay the ordina- deed this village is very marfhy, be- ry duties before we ftirred from caufe of the waters which come thence. Thefe duties amount to for- down from the mountains ; but it is ty-fix pence per bale, every bale four owing to the fame, that there is hundred weight, the ufual load of much rice here, and that it abounds Send a0 horfe. Thatday theftormcame with birds. | ea form. on again with fuch fury, that it was Upon the twenty ezghth, we con- all we could do to keep our legs up- on the fhore, and this drove us to the fide of the downs, three hundred paces from the fea, where we paf- fed our night: And here we fell in with the crew of a veflel belonging to his Czarian Majefty, who had re- tired under fome huts. Among ‘them were two Germans and a Swedi/h Von. Bh: tinued our journey along the fea fide, and travelled fix leagues. Here we turned off. from the fea, having ata {mall diftance before us,’ the high mountains of Perfa. Wethere met with a {pring of water, and fome forry villages, confifting of a few mud houfes, inhabited, as they call them here, by Moors or Turks, The wea- Pp ther 1703. ther being very fine, thefe mountains \-VY™ and plains had a very charming ef- A great bird. A dange- rous road. River of fe&t. The Cafpian fea affords little or no fith in thefe parts. There is, however, here a kind of carp, not very good indeed, and a kind of her- ring, not better worth. Upon the ¢wenty ninth, we went on, and in an hour’s time entered the mountains, which are very lofty and very bare, full of rocks, without trees. "There is even a great num- ber of pebbles in the plains, Hav- ing travelled over the high and ftony mountains of Barma, we halted at nine in the morning, upon a flat hill {urrounded with others that are higher, and we met with a brook of good water in adeep valley. Ithere fhot a large bird that was black, grey and white, a fathom in extent from the tip of one wing to the tip of the other. It was a bird of prey, which they there call yallagan, and not very unlike a faulcon. From his wings I drew good quills to write with. The weather continuing fine, tho’ the wind was rather of the higheft, we proceeded on our journey to the fouthward, and pafied by feveral cab- bins inhabited by Arabians, at the foot, on the flope, and on the top of hills and mountains. Great num- bers of them are in thefe parts to be met, with their wives, their children and their cattle. Thefe parts are in- fefted by robbers, which obliges tra- vellers to be upon their guard, and to take care how they fall afleep. From time to time we fired off fome pieces to let them know we were up- on the watch, and ready prepared to defend ourfelves; and yet one of thefe rogues was {o bold as to come to reconnoitre us, but his temerity was rewarded with a found cudgel- ling. | At midnight we moved on again, and in an hour's time we came among hills covered with trees. At break of day, we went through a narrow deep paflage, where we were oblig- ed to difmount and lead our horfes by the bridle. When we had got Atatafiaei. down to the plain, we twice crofled Th TRAVELS of the river of Atatafiaer, or the pater- 1703. nal River, which falls into the Ca/- ~W™ pian {ea: Upon the top of a moun- tain, we found a great pond full of water, with a great number of birds, large and {mall, round about it; and afterwards a {pring of admirable wa- ter, which comes out of a hill, and forms a {mallcanal. This isa branch of the river we crofled twice the day before, which we croffed again a third time by fording it, there hav- ing been a great drought for two years before. About eight of the clock, we had on the left of us a great {tone caravanfera in ruins, and a place of burial near it, with many tombs of Arabians and Turks. We halted a little-beyond this, by the fide -of a brook, in a plain, four leagues from a {mall place called Ra- farat, where certain Arabians had pitched fome tents. We were o- bliged to fend for refrefhments a league from thence. At two in the morning, we mov- ed on again, continually mounting of hills and going down the fame, and we crofled a river, which the Turks call Orot/a, or the dry River ; pry rier} and indeed it was dry then and full of pebbles, and fo it is in winter as well as in fummer. ‘Towards the morning we heard pheafants upon the hills, where are alfo hares and many {prings of water. Upon the laft day of the month, we halted in a great {tony plain furrounded with rocks, where we found ten tents of Arabs who fupplied us with milk, frefh butter, eggs, and prety good water. We there killed a fheep we had brought from Affracan, and feafted upon it. At two in the morning we con- tinued our way, amidft rocky moun- tains, and at break of day we difco- vered ourfelves to be near a fpring called Borbeelagh, around which there were feveral Arabs under tents, in a place where. every thing was burnt up by the heat of the fun, and the greatdroughts. ‘This was upon the Jirft day of Auguft, and that day we went but three leagues, it being, in fummer, impoflible to travel with camels 170 3. CORNELIUVUSi\ LE OBRUYN pebbles inftead of water. As we 1704, drew near to Samachi; we pafled by ~VNJ camels above five of fix leagues in Uwy 24 hours; befides that it isneceflary River of Sahanfha. A robe fent zo theGo- the Caravans fhould hale in places where there happens to be water. This is three leagues from Samachi, and as the mountains produce no wood, they are obliged to make ufe of camels dung for their firing, juft as in Egypt. At two in the morning, we moved on, and croffed the river of Saban- Jha, where we found nothing but fome fruit gardens. They made us ftop at the cuftom-houfe that they might count our camels, which was foon done, and we went into the town. This was upon the /econd day of the month, and we went to take up our lodging in the Caravan- fera of the Armenians, where we were entertained by a merchant of that nation. ERIE RI RIES BIEL IA IL ERI DH KDI ADVE BILD EY GHA (P. + ORXIE Rejoicings on account of a royal robe. Defcription of Samachi. Ruins of a great fortre/s upon the mountain of Kata-Ku- luftahan. HEN we artived at Samachi, they told us the Khan or Go- wernor of vernor of that city had juft received Samachi. Dearnefs of provi- jions. a royal robe from the King his Ma- fter, whereupon he caufed great publick rejoicings to be made for four days together. It was fo exceflively hot when we arrived at this place, and no rain having fallen for the fpace of two or three years before, there happen’d to bea great fcarcity of every thing, and they now fold a loaf for ten- pence, which had never coft above twopence for a century before. O- ther provifions were dear in propor- tion, and they now fold a fowl for fivepence or fixpence which before was ufed to fetch not above three- halfpence. They are very ftrict in examining all the goods that go through this city, for which purpofe the officers of the cuftoms come to the Caravan- Jera, where they have an apart- ment; but they demand nothing for this vifit, you only give them fifty pence for every camel load, whereas they formerly paid no more than a florin, but this is only with regard to the goods carried into Perfia, and 4. as the carriage is comthonly by hor- fes, the bales muft be diminifhed by the half, a horfe load not exceeding four hundred weight, whereas that of a camel is eight or nine hundred. ee" Ne ee ee fe ee en ae Te eee Ne ee a eee eS Mia 147 _ Upon the ffzb of this month, at 4... 4. eight in the morning, the Khan re- vakade of paired to a garden, a quarter of a #¢Khans. league from the town, thete to in- veft himfelf with the robe we juft now mentioned. As gteat prepara- tions had been made for this folem- nity, I went with feveral others to have a fight of it. Firft there ap- peared a number of perfons on horfe- back, fucceeded by ten camels, a- dorned with two little red ftandards to the right and left. Upon fix of thefe there were kettle-drums which the Perfians call Tambalpaes,of which four were of extraordinary fize, point- ed at bottom,which a drummer up- on one of the camels ftruck from timetotime. Four trumpeters ftopt at intervals on the way fide to found their Karamas or Trumpets, which are very long, wide at bottom, and according to my ear, make a very difagreeable noife. At fome diftance after thefe came four hautbois,which they call Karana-nafier. The ca- mels 148 1703. ee Vand ea TRAVELS “fo mels were alfo followed by twenty mufqueteers differently habited, fome in green, fome in purple, and fome in grey, and after thefe came fix of the Khan’s or Governor’s menial fer- vants; after thefe appeared their ma- {ter himfelf upon a fine chefnut horfe moft beautifully caparifoned. This Nobleman, who was in a fhort kind of veft, and with a large turban on his head, after the Perfian mode, was followed by four eunuchs, fome tawny, others black, richly habiced and well mounted. After thefe ap- peared the moft confiderable perfo- nages of the place, and a great num- ber of others on horfeback; then nine led horfes of the Khan's, fump- tuoufly caparifoned, with each a {mall drum on the right fide of the faddle. Moft of the perfons of di- ftinétion had the like, which from. time to time they {truck with their fin- gers. They were almoft all of filver like thofe of the Khan. Befides all - this a great number of foldiers were ranged along the garden, on the right hand towards the mountains, and each of thefe foldiers had a feather in his cap; and in fhort, two horfes, upon which were two men covered from head to foot with a gown quilted and wrought with all forts of colours, reprefenting monkeys; and as they were well broke to the tricks and play of that creature, they drew the eyes of every body upon them, and kept at the diftance of twenty paces from each other, with mufici- ans near them. When they had reach- ed the garden, the Khan and the great men who had attended him, dif- mounted from their horfes at the fore-gate, which was large and built of ftone. He there robed himfelf with his royal veftment, and in half an hour mounting his horfe again, he returned to the town in the fame order he came out of it. This robe was pretty long, and of gold bro- cade, and upon his head he had a golden cap, in the nature of 2 crown, This cavalcade was attended by a great number of fervants on horfe-. back, who rode and pranced about on the fides of the proceffion, with 4 a Kaljan, or {moaking bottle in their 1703. right hand for the ufe of their ma~-~VW™ fters. Thefe bottles are of glafs, adorned with gold or filver at top, and extremely neat. Other of thefe fervants had a little pot full of fire at the pummel of their faddles, for their mafters to light their pipes by, but there was no tobacco~ {moked upon this occafion. Many of thefe great men diverted themfelves on the way with darting the Ayner, which is a kind of cane. Every bo- dy had run out of the town to fee this cavalcade, fome on foot, and o~ thers on horfeback, a fight agreeable enough to the eye, becaufe of the variety of objects: others came from the villages, of which the country about is full, from the tents of the Arabs, and from the gardens which are feen on all fides. The Khan be- 4 rich cap. fore he afflumed his robe, covered himfelf with the gold cap juft now mentioned, which was adorned with precious ftones, clofed at top, and carried at a fmall diftance before him on horfeback. They pretend that this cap reprefents the arms of the prophet 4, who was wont to wear fuch an one. The Khan took it off when he put on his robe, and it was carried before him in going back, as it had been in coming. This cavalcade took up two hours. It rained in the evening, and it fo continued to do till towards noon the next day. This made the ways fo bad, that it was as much as the horfes could do to get forward; but it was very fine weather from the seventh to the tenth of this month. We had, however, an earthquake, which did no damage, except that it obliged a great many people to go out and lye in the fields, for fear their houfes fhould fall upon their heads. Upon the eleventh, I drew a pro- 5... {pect of the town from a hill to the of sama- fouthward, and from the place‘ whence it makes the beft figure, as it is to be feen in number 38. It is longer than it is broad, and as it is deftitute of mofchs, towers, or con- fiderable buildings, I have only di- ftinguifhed yy, ith Ut” E HANA, « a Wi Mie Yi] WE = Zee = eS eA ——— Z = ZA os ————— ee i {\\\ {1 i SES Sr regres = tear ‘of 7 tiphinate Campy if berisg ca} gla § Y ams a) a ata mes * Ape pee FL ROAD echttnenele te: sinter ence, + i yi So : OILS) ath P he Os apse ace (aie 9 8g atin ae Ss 2 . ? ; _ t 2 { 3 2 ‘ + $ : ; } SeaE E SeSe Ge Pree eaethe ae Ss CORNELL PUSS is BRUY Nw 1703. ftinguifhed the Khan's palace by the “~v~ letter 4; the Caravanfera of Cir- 149 great number of cooks who have all 1703. forts of victuals ready dreffed. the bazars are at one of the ends of this cafia, which is on the eaft fide of the town by the letter B; and a hill where are the ruins of an ancient fortrefs, by the letterC. It is to the northweft of the town, and we thall {peak more amply of it hereafter, as well as of another, higher, which is to be feen on one fide of it. This town is upon the flope of an hill; is about a league in circumference, and all open, the walls having been thrown down by an earthquake a- bout five and thirty years ago. Tho’ there be here no remarkable build- ing, there are, however, f{everal mofchs ; but they are all fmall and low, fo that they are not diftinguith- able from without the town. They call them Mu-zejit. There are two of them that have {mall domes, in- to which they enter bya court, and without any other ornament than a market, and are alfo full of the fhops of goldfmiths, fhoemakers, fadlers, and fo on. Some of them are co- -vered with ftone; and fome with — wood, and contain feveral ftreets. There you have coffee-houfes, and all the caravanferas, which have no profpect of the {treet, and where they go in bya great door. There is a {core of them, whereof thofe be- longing to the Indians, which are of {tone and the fineft of all, are cwen- ty three or twenty four foot high. Ours had forty rooms on the floor beneath, and was fquare. Thefeé are the places where they fell the principal forts of goods; nor indeed are there any great fhops of any fort in the bazars. This town is called by feveral names, fome call it Sa- macht, others Sumachia, and the Per- place raifed up in a round form, and’ fians themfelves Schamachi. It is in full of feats. The houfes of this town are of the moft ordinary fort, of ftone and of éarth, flat at top, poor and mean to look at, and fp low for the moft part that you may reach the roofs of them with the hand. Thechief of them are never- thelefs neat enough within-fide, and adorned with carpets, and fuch like things: the walls of them are plafter- ed, and very white with fome ftreaks of colour; fome of thefe are even two ftories high and raifed at top. TheKhan’s That of the Khan himfelf is upon an about 40 degrees and 50 minutes of northern latitude, and is the capital of the province of Shirwan or Servan, part of the ancient Media, to the north-north- weft of Perfia; to the weftward of the province of Gilan, and to the northward of that of J- rak, and extends quite to the fron- tiers of Hyrcania. They pretend this city was built by a certain King of Perfia called Shirwan Shah, twenty four leagues from the Ca/pzan fea. The way over the mountains fo turns and winds, that we were 24 hours in Zou. eminence, and yet makes no great going over them, and fix days in per- figure from without. Here are alfo forming the whole journey with ca- to be feen the ruins of a tolerably mels; tho’, indeed, it may be done large mofch, to which belong two in thtee on horfeback. It is forty or three forts of domes; which leagues from hence to Derbent, if feem to have been formerly hand- you go over the mountains of Lahazz. fom. ‘This building is of ftone well TheKhan governs here as a King, guctent of compacted together, the moft ancient and has under him only a Kalantaer the Khan's and fineft in all the town, where are or burgo-mafter, who has no man-¢7"™ feveral other ruins to be feen fcatter- ner of authority, and has nothingto Market ed upanddown. Atthe foot of the do but to prepare a lift of the tub- and fers. Hill where the Khan keeps his court, fidies the country is to furnifh the there is a great market where they fell every fort of thing, and efpeci- ally fruits. This is the quarter or diftri€t of the braziers, where there are, however, other fhops, and a Vou, I. Khan, who has a chancery, coun- fellors, and an arfenal in his palace, provided with fome pieces of cannon ; two of which are at the entrance, and are difcharged upon publick re- Qgq joicings. 150 es 1 Bee 1703. joicings. He has a body of horfe wv—~ confifting of two thoufand five hun- dred men, three hundred of which ferve him alfo as a guard on foot, and attend him when he appears a- | broad or goes out to hunt. The His picture. Khan, who was in the fixth year of his government, is a well made man, and of a comely prefence, tho’ ra- ther too thin, and wears long mu- ftaches. He is called Allerwedi- khan, and bears the title of Begler- beg or Khan of other Khans. He is a Georgian born, and a Chriftian, and was formerly Gentleman of the chamber to the King of Perfa, to whom his father, a Gentleman ofa good family, prefented him, while yet in his infancy, according to the cuftom of Georgia. They fay he is of the ancient family of the Borgo- dions, known before the birth of Je- fus Chrift, and originally a Jew. The Government of Samachi is one of the moft confiderable in all the Empire of Perfia, and its go- vernors grow rich the eafieft and Scil of Sa- foonett of any, by reafon of the great machi. fybfidies they levy upon the country round about, and efpecially upon Gilan, which produce a deal of filk, cotton, and faffron. ‘The foil is na- turally very fertile, and affords good wines, both red and white, but the white is fo ftrong there is no drink- ing it,but tempered with water. Ita- bounds with all forts of fruits,and par- ticularly apples, pears, and che{nuts of an exquifite flavour, and efpecial- ly towards Georgia. In a word, there is nothing wanting but people to cultivate the foil, It produces al- fo great numbers of horfes, cattle, Abundance youltry, and all forts of game, both yee of the fur and feather, which are to be bought at avery cheap rate, and efpecially in winter. ‘The bread there is moft admirably good. A fine port.. The town of Baku, which has a very fine port, has been lately for- tify'd by the Perfans, which was owing to the mifconduct of Captain Meyer, whom we have mentioned more than once before. He took it into his head to demand tree en- trance into this port,for the fhipsand 5 V-E-Li$ of veflels of his Czarian Majefty, which 1703. gave fuch umbrage to thePer/ians,and “Vv inftilled them with fuch a jealoufy, that they immediately refolved to fortify this place. As the Mu/covites had, time out of mind, had free ad- miffion into this port, he was advif- ed not to take fo falfea ftep, but the advice was thrown away upon him. Before this it had been an eafy matter to have feized it with an handful of men, and with it to have feized on the whole county quite to the Kur and Araxes, and to have fecured it by proper fortifications, as fhall be obferved in the fequel; for the in- habitants were in no condition to have made a defence, and this had proved a moft advantageous article to his Czarian Majefty. | This town of Baku ftands in the Baku. weftern part of Perfia,in the country of Shirwan, upon the Ca/pian fea, and ftill preferves its ancient walls. This part produces the beft nut oyl in the world, both brown and white, the firft of which is carried into Gi/an, and an hundred leagues beyond into Perfia, and the white they fend toall parts. They affured me, that at the diftance of two or three leagues from that town, the land burns continually, becaufe of the abundance of faltpeter it is im- pregnated with ; and that 50 leagues: from Samachi, there is a city called Ganjfie, which is four times as big as own of the former, full of fine ftone build-G- ings, moftly of two ftories ; handfom broad ftreets, noble bazars, and great caravanferas; that the Governor’s palace there is great and fpacious; that a fine river runs through the town; that there alfo are many gar- dens, good wines, fruits in abun- dance, fena, cypreffes and pines; fo that this city might juftly be efteem- ed one of the moft confiderable in all the Empire of Perfia. All this was confirmed to me by a French eccle- fiaftic, who lives there, and by fome Georgians, who aflured me, that in Georgia, the Gurgiftan of this day, there are feveral rivers we know no- thing of, as the Ala/an, which crof- fes the province of Ghaget; the Leg- wie BY) ae a os Se a Y ieee Be BO D6 ge BNC oo ie res -KULUS TAHAN . r %

their flone and this is to be obferved even 1n wyré. mans, who excelled in that particular ; their publick ways, and remarkably fo in what remains of that of Naples, called the Via Appia. Egypt alfo furnifhes us with another example of the delicacy of the ancients in this refpect, in the only one of the feven wonders of the world that fub- fifts at this day, meaning the inner paflage by which you go up to the famous pyramids of that country, of which I was the firft that gave a de- fcription in the account of my firft travels. Thefe ftones, which are of prodigious fize, are fo nicely joined together, that the joints are hardly difcernible; befides they are polifh- ed like looking-glafs, whereas thofe of the work I am {peaking of, are far from being fo, When heen 152 1703. The When I came from out of thefe wy ~ fubterraneous vaults, I meafured the Dangerous well. _ Way. breadth of the hill at top, and found it was fifty paces in the place where it was narroweft, and eighty to the north-weft. ‘Towards the middle of this mountain there is a great well, but I did not dare approach it near enough to look into it, for fear of falling in, for the brink of it was dangerous to all appearance : this is the only opening I found there. The towers wherewith the walls of the building, upon the hill, are flanked, are feventy or eighty paces diftant from each other where they are near- eft. This wall ftretches much low- er down about the mountain to the eaft, where I believe it is a good half league long. We wentdown much eafier than we got up, becaufe as we came back, we hit upon the right In our way down we faw {e- veral ruins of great apartments be- tween the wall below and the de- molifhed fortrefs upon the top of the hill, the ftones of which did but juft appear above the furface of the DeR A Ni ES of ground; but there is no judging of 1703. the fize of the building, but by that ~¥~ of the Arcades. When in our re- turn we had reached the firft wall, I drew the profped&t you fee in numb. 40, near a tower, which is ftill pret- ty entire, near fome other ruins. Some writers have obferved that thefe ruins are a mixture of ftone and wood, but I there met with no fuch thing, and I am perfuaded the ftones are joined together with nothing but cement. The tradition is that this fortrefs was demolifhed by Tamer- lan, tho’ by the beft information I could get, I would not vouch for the truth of the ftory. In my return to the town, I fawa Turk dancing upon the rope, in the open fields. He was furrounded by a great number of fpettators, the neareft of which gave what they thought fit to one of his companions who made the gathering, while he was doing his beft to divert the com- pany: but he was none of the moft dextrous of his profeffion. CHAP. XXXII Remarkable ancient Sepulchres at Jedickombet upon the moun- tain of Pjedrakoes, and at Pyrmaraes. Review of the Perfian cavalry. der. PON the fourteenth, I went a- way on horfeback, from Sa- machi, attended by two perfons, and fome runners, in order to go to Fe- Jediekcm- diekombet, that is, the /even Towers, Tomb of a Saint. where there are feveral ancient tombs. We went through feveral villages, moftly inhabited by Arme- nians, as we advanced weftward to- wards the mountains, and at nine ar- rived at Kerkins, a village upona fer- tile eminence, and covered with vineyards, which are for the fupport of theinhabitants. They have there a chappel built of ftone, with the tomb of a faint, called Sabach War- An horrible mur- tapeet. ‘They fay he was born a Turk and Mohammedan, and that having afterwards embraced their faith, he apply’d himfelf fo clofe to {ftudy that he became one of their priefts; that after this, he had the misfortune to fall into the hands of the Mohammedan Turks, who burnt him at Samachi, and that rifing a- gain he came and rejoined them, There is another tomb upon the high road, half a league from this mountain or hill, with fome cha- racters, which I defired they would interpret to me; but they told me they were nothing but ornaments. 5 That Tombs at Jediekom- bet. Einetower.twelve foot in diameter. ee ee ere eT CORNELIUS LE BRUYN 1703. That of the faint, who is buried up- way on the hill, is there held in great ve- neration ; they there light up tapers upon their feftival days, and eat be- fide him. As it was upon a Sunday I came there; I found a crowd of people, and they very obligingly in- vited me to dine there, but I excuf- ed myfelf, being defirous to go on farther. This village contains about two hundred families. There is a {mall altar in the middle of the chap- pel, where this tomb is, and it is furrounded by a fmall wall, on one fide of which there is a walnut-tree, under whofe fhade they fit. In the fame place there was formerly a fmall mofch, which about thirty five years ago, was thrown down by an earthquake, and inftead of that they erected this chappel. We left this village at half an hour after nine, and went over fome fine hills to ‘fediekhombet, where we got an hour afterwards. I there found the ancient tombs I have mentioned, which are fubftantially built of hard ftone, and neatly enough joined to- gether; they were ftill moft of them entire; and terminated in pyramids. The firft I examined was the loftieft, and neareft to the mountain. The wall of the tower is five palms in thicknefs; theentrance fix high and three broad; it is round within, and This tower is furrounded with a fine wall, whofe front gate is fourteen foot and an half broad, and ten deep to the wicket through which you go in, five palms thick, and fixteen paces from corner to corner, or fixty four paces in circumference. The wall is three palms thick, and the coping at top is in imitation of a camel’s back, or an half oval. In this tower are five fine tombs, three on one fide, and two on the other, which are adorned with foliages and other different things. Thefe tombs are three palms high, two broad, and feven long, fome more, others lefs. I left this, and went to the fecond tower. Atthe front gate in the en- ceint of the wall, I found an eleva- tion of three palms, an arcade of Vor. I. eight and an half broad at bottom, 1708, 153 aw Pe Ta aie ee of eleven feet and an half deep, and | feven foot high, Here you have three fine tombs. The wall of this tower is forty four foot long, and thirty three broad; and is not higher than the former which it nearly re= fembles,; The laft of thefe buildings which is the loweft, and goes down- ward, is furrounded with a wall which is feventy one foot broad, fixty fix foot long; and nine foot high. The front gate which is four- teen foot and an half without, is twenty two broad; the arcade is e- leven foot high, and fourteen deep: there is a wicket in the middle,which is two foot and an half broad, and five foot and an half high: You there go down by three fteps; and having meafured twelve paces, you come to a building which is thirty eight foot broad, and eighteen foot long, at the end of which there is another on the left hand; which is fix foot as well in length as in breadth, upon which there is a tower. You go into this building by a {mall door, which is four foot, and four inches high; and two foot and an half broad, and correfponds with that in the front; The thick- nefs of the wall of it is three foor, and going down two fteps, you come into a {quare apartment furrounded with {tone benches one foot and an half high, and as much in breadth. This apartment or room is ten foot long and eleven foot broad, and the vault of it is twelve foot high. On the right hand you have a door made through the wall above the bench, through which, by going up a fingle {tep, you enter into a dark place, whofe vault is lower than the for- mer, tho’ its other dimenfions be larger, being thirteen foot long and ~ ten broad. From hence through a- nother door, oppofite to the firft; but fmaller, you go up two fteps, and come into a place, ten foot long and ten foot broad. Upon this it is, that the tower ftands, which is hol- low quite up to the point of the fpire; and here you have on the right of you four {mall windows, Rr two 154. | The TRA 1703. two and two, one above the other, LU-VwIT there found tapers fticking a- gainft the wall, and. ftones tumbled down, but perceived nothing like a tomb, We dined in that place, and there refrefhed our wine with water from a fine {pring over againft and at a {mall diftance from this build- ing: It is very ancient, the water of it is admirable, and its fource is from the mountains. Without the en- ceint of thefe monuments, concern- ing which the ancients have faid fo much, there are a great number of other tombs round about, fome like -thefe, and others of great common ftones, and all without any characters and infcriptions, and only with fome fmall ornaments to which I can give no name, except that fome of them might be thought to be like bafes. And indeed I am quite of opinion, they are no other than ornaments, which: is what I have obferved in many other places, and even in the royal fepulchres which are to be feen without the walls of ‘ferufalem. To give a more diftinét and per- feé&t idea of thefe tombs, I have drawn ‘one of them in particular on one fide of the building, I have juft now men- tioned, near which there is a great Pi i llc us) MAR UR ok Ui aia LN | cama ai eT? ee ee OU V BIL 's.! of of thefe tombs, was furprifed to fee 1 great heaps of ftones, upon a fertile —W hill, where the foil was not at all given to be ftony ; from whence I concluded there muft have formerly been a town or fome fortrefs in this place, tho’ no other veftiges feemed to be left of it: And I was after- wards informed by fome people, of whom I made the inquiry, and they told me there had been a {mall one in times paft, near the tombs; a thing very likely, for otherwife it would be difficult enough to comprehend for what reafon they were erected in thefe mountains. Not far from thence we found a fine fpring, and a little farther, feveral other tombs ; among which there was one of ex- traordinary dimenfions, but very much disfigured by the injuries it had received from time. Half a league from thence, we went back again through the village of Kirkins, inhabited by Armenians and Turks, and we got to the town about an hour before funfet, in the midft of a high -wind, and fo great a duft, that we ‘had much ado to fee before us : But there fell an heavy foaking rain the next day, attended with thunder, which intirely diffipated it. tree, and others fmaller, which come ©. Upon the ezghteenth, I went up to Zhe moun out of the tower, notwithftanding the mountain of Pyedrakoes, nearer tain Pje- ‘that the ftones are till firm and in- the town than that of Kala-kulujia-0*™°* tire, and tho’ there isnoopening or ham, and higher. Upon the top ofz,,., fiffure to be feen. I have traced out the front gate, fome tombs, and the melon garden,innumb.41; and you will find the whole with the moun- tain in perfpeive in numb. 42, where nine towers are to be {een, | notwithftanding the word “fedzehom- 3 bet fignifies but feven, as has already | been obferved:. There is a great number of young’ ‘fig-trees againft | the walls within, which cover the ‘oe tombs fo thick, it is no eafy matter ee to get fight of them. . They hold : them here to be very ancient, and have a report that Alexander {pared them, becaufe of their great anti- aes quity. — | es About four in the afternoon, hav- cere | ing fatisfied my curiofity, I returned | from thence, and, to the northward this mountain, there is an open tomb, furrounded with great ftones, which is full eighteen foot and an half long, and fixteen foot broad; together with feveral other ordinary tombs, a wal- nut-tree, and another great tree with fmall leaves: At the diftance of twenty feven paces from hence, there is another tomb, which confifts of a fmall round chappel. It is thirty three foot in'circumference without, and ten foot diameter within; the wall of it is two foot ten inches thick, and there are ftones.here of four foot four inches long, and two foot and two inchesbroad. The entrance in; to it is five foot four inches high, with a ftep.: This fmall chappel is ten foot and‘an half high, exclufive of the needle or {pire, and is fur- rounded | C. OAR DLE wo &. Bae BU VON: much ear to this, as I did to the 1703. 1703. rounded with feveral other tombs. UW\ The wall of it is thick fet with nails, Super ii- tion. to which they have faftned flips of various colours, and the like are to be feen in the former, being pieces torn from the garments of thofe who come here to perform their devo- tions, and who make thefe {mall of ferings of acknowledgment to the faints who reft here, in hopes there- by to procure relief from fuch dif eafes as they may labour under. An: Armenian fervant I had with me, af- fured me he had experienced the effi- cacy of this means, but I gave as ——— a i IS {tory of the faint of theirs who arofe “VW from the dead. In numb. 43, you fee a reprefen- Deferiprion tation of this {mall chappel, which AG ee is very much damaged and decay’d * on the eaft-fide, together with the hill of Kala-kuluftahan; and in numb. 44, the other fide decay'd, with the open tomb I juft now mentioned, and the town and mountain at a di- ftance. In this {mall ghappel, there isa great tomb adorned with folia- ges, fuch as it appears in the plate beneath, and forty paces farther, MLD i . ? two fubterraneans. The entrance into the firft is vaulted, and confifts of great ftones which want nothing within. ‘This place is fix foot and an half long, and four foot and two inches broad: It is paved, and is five foot five inches high. The fecond, which is but feventeen paces from ir, is like a grot hewn out of the folid rock of the mountain, and the en- trance into it is fo fmall, you muft creep upon your belly to get in. Be- fore this grotto there is a tree, upon the bark of which are the names of 4 feveral = wy iy 156 1703. aa die: Rae LS feveral perfons cut out; and tombs round about, between which and the fepulchre upon the mountain there is the wall of a demolifh’d building. This hill or mountain is alfo fur- rounded with tombs, except to the fouth-weft where it is very fteep. There are authors who affirm there is here a great fubterraneous vault, into which you go down by {feveral fteps, and that therein are depofited the afhes of the daughter of a great King ; but I made a fruitlefs fearch Mifake og after it, and am perfuaded it is no fome au- other than the little grot I have men- thors. tioned, and into which they had not the curiofity to go, to difcover the truth of it; befides that the en- trance into it is fo {mall, I was obli- ged to undrefs myfelf in part to {queeze in. As to the reft, I have reafon to believe the chief of the monuments hereabouts, is that of the fmall chappel which you fee up- on the hill. They moreover affur- ed me, that moft of the perfons here interr’d, have been fuch as have left behind them the reputation of great fanctity, whence it is, that from time to time they come to vifit thefe tombs. There is a {mall village at the foot of the mountain, and be- yond that, to the north-eaft, a fine Pyrmara- Cs plain bordered with hills and moun- tains, and to the north-weft the mountain of Kala-kuluftaban with fome villages. ‘The town which you fee at adiftance, and the coun- try round about, have a very fine effect upon the eye. You have alfo, as you approach the town, a fine ftone fountain or ciftern, whofe wa- ter is admirable, and a little beyond that, a {pring which runs away thro’ a fubterraneous canal towards the mountains, and by another canal goes and difcharges itfelf into the ve- ry town. Upon the xineteenth, I prepared what I had, to fend by the Cara- van, which we followed fome days afterwards. The next day I went to the village of Pyrmaraes, where there are two very famous tombs. In my way thither, I pafled by a very fine fpring, and croffed feveral brooks up- 6 . ae ee ee ee , eee Be eG tee x of on little ftone bridges. clear ftream. I faw feveral others under which there ran no water at all. The town of Samachi makes a confiderable figure, when beheld from the hills, upon which there are feveral burying-grounds, and fome pretty large tombs. About noon I got to Pyrmaraes, which is a large village built of ftone and earth: it is about four leagues to the eaft- ward of the town, in a great plain, as you go towards the mountains on the left hand. You there fee the tomb of Sezd Ibrabim, a certain faint, toms of In great reputation over all this coun- Ibrahim. try. ‘The place where he is depofit- ed has a good deal the look of a for- trefs, and is encompafled with a wretched fort of a wall. Within fide we found a ftable where we put up our horfes. Immediately there came a fervant to invite me to his mafter’s apartment, who had the care and charge of this place. He received me very obligingly, and afk- ed me from whence I came, and what had brought me thither? Hav- ing anfwered him that I was moved thereto by curiofity, he very polite- ly offered to wait on me himfelf,and fhew me all the places that were worth the feeing. There is a pretty large fquare be- fore this building, to the right hand of which, as you go in, this officer has a fpacious apartment, the floor of which was covered with carpets : from thence you go, on the left hand, into the court of this build- ing, which is fpacious and well ex- ecuted, and afterwards intoa fecond where are feveral tombs, upon which are Turki/b characters and ornaments. You then come to the fepulchre of the faint himfelf, which is fhut up with a wooden door, thro’ which you go into a {mall vault, where there is a coffin, and from thence in- to a pretty apartment which receives light from three fides above, and is covered Twoleagues 1703. from the town, I faw one that feem-\-Ww4 ed to be ancient, confifting of three ruined arches built of great blocks of ftone, under which there ran a very CORNELIS LEB Rw YB 164 4 1703. covered with carpets, ftriped ftuffs confifts of one ftone, three foot and 1703: “~~ and mats; here you muft pull off half long, and two and an half “~~ your fhoes, that you may not fpoil this furniture. You then go thro’ a {mall door, on the right hand of the firft vault, into three apartments, in the firft of which there are three coffins, five in the fecond, which is on the right, and in the middle of the third, which is on the left, that of the faint himfelf, covered with a great green cloth or pall. The por- tals of this building are about thirty fix foot high, and fome fathoms in depth; and you go up by twelve {teps, each of one ftone. The top is not vaulted,and the wall, in its up- per part, looks like a fortrefs, hav- ing ateach angle a kind of guerite. This building is forty paces long to the right, and thirty one in breadth. Over the tomb there is a {mall o- pening covered with a ftone, and o- ver the gate there are many Arabian characters, hewn out in the ftone, and others traced out in black upon the walls which are white. At the diftance of twenty paces from this building, you go down fifteen vault- ed fteps, and afterwards, down ten others contiguous thereto, and the laft of which are not vaulted, from whence you go into a fubterranean, which is thirty three paces in length, and nine in breadth, and which is vaulted from one end to the other, and is full thirty fix foot in height. The ftones of this vault are fine, large, and well compacted or joined, but the plafter they were formerly covered with is almoft all fallen down by the length of time. I fancy this fubterranean was formerly defigned to keep water in; and water comes in ftill, whenever it rains hard, by a fubterraneous canal which comes from the mountains in the neighbour- hood, and runs through an hole made in the fecond ftep. This fub- terranean has two vents at top thro’ which it receives light. At the en- trance into this building there is a {tone wall, and ten paces from thence there are twenty ftone troughs which ferve for watering of cattle. They are put together, and each of them Vou. I. broad. You have here alfo feveral open wells, as well as in the village and the country round about, many of which are ftopped up at the mouth. It is likely enough that they formerly ferved for aqueduéts, and this feems to have been more probably the cafe, feve- ral of them conveying water under eround into thefe fubterraneous vaults, there to be kept. This is what was common enough among the ancients, and I have feen the fame myfelf at Alexandria, and in the neighbourhood of Naples. It was after this manner the ancient Medes preferved their water. The Per- fians were mightily pleafed to fee how exaétly I furvey’d every thing ; I then thanked the Gentleman who had charge of this monument, and defired him to give me fomebody to carry me to the other, which heac- cordingly did in the moft obliging manner in the world. In our way thither, we rode over a mountain; but we were obliged to alight from our horfes to the eaftward, where it was fo very fteep we were often un- der a neceflity of laying hold on the rock to prevent our falling. It is up- on the declivity of this rock that the tomb of Tirzbbaba ftands. You there gd of go down three fteps into a {quare as Tiribb2- broad as the building, which is twenty eight foot in front, and looks upon the fteepeft part of the moun- tain. The frontifpiece of it is of great beauty, and confifis of large {moothed ftones. ‘There are two windows which penetrate three palms into the wall: That on the left is glazed in the middle, and hasa ftone lattice, which feems to be all of one piece; to this they have faftned feveral flips of various colours. ‘The window on the right is of great ftones, which are four palms and an half broad, and eight high; and you go up three fteps to get to the portal, which is fhut with a wooden gate. From thence you go into a {mall fquare apartment, with pretty nitches on all fides, and a {mall Sf dome; o $s) bh oo) ~ ee ae eee, oi eee SR. ae as ime TRA 1703. dome; it is not above five foot in wvy~extent from one ‘fide to the other 158 VEE'S of where refts the Saint is ftill more: 1703. the height of tte vault is about ~V~ below. The wallon the right hand, as you go in, joins to the rock. - On the left hand you go up by three fteps, one of which is higher than the other two; by thefé you go up into an apartment whichis fourtéen foot long, and ten foot broad; with a vaulted roof about thirty fix foot high. Oppofite to the’ door there isa flight of fifteen’ fteps, the firft of which is high, thé fecond broad, and the reft moft of them of oné ftone only, and about thirtéen inches thick, This flight of fteps is two foot and an half broad, and leads up to an apartment adorned’ with eight nitches; witha great window in front, and a wooden lattiee, and. a domé ovér head, This room is covered with mats, and has three doors) Theré are alfo two open- ings on the right hand, one of which is a great nitch, fhutin by a kind of window of wrought ftone; and that on the left of this fhuts with a well wrought folding door, which, however is but four foot high and two foot broad; fo that you muft betid yourfelf to go thro’ it. -You have alfo heré a {mall grotto hewn out of thé rock, again{t which this menumient is built, and in the cor- ner againft the fame rock, a {mall ftone baluftrade in a femi-circular form, of which the other half na- turally comes out. This is the place where the faint ig at reft- upon his kneés after their manner: this is what they fay themfelves, to which they add, that he is covered with a white veil, dreffed in grey, and in the po- fture which he was the moft natu- rally ufed to in his life-time, with- out being altered in the leaft. This ig a favour obtained of heaven for him by St. Zorabim who was his dif- ciple. This apartment is fourteen foot fquare from fide to fidé, and is very much adorned, having two fmall columns on one fide of each nitch to the fight and left, with a ftep raifed two foot. ‘This: which’ is before the window in the front is about three foot deep, and that twenty one foot. From thence you go up a flight of twelve fteps into a {mall apartment on the left hand, and on the right hand of you, you have four or five broken fteps, and alittle door thro’ which you muft efeep upon your belly to get to the top of the building which is crowned with a lofty dome, around which you may go by three places among the rocks. ‘The paflage of the firft ig two foot and an half, of the fe- cond two foot, afid one before,where’ there was an opening to the front. We then went down the mouftdin by a path moré convenient than the firft, and we went up another eminéncé over againft the firft, there to fee the other tomb; but we there only found a bare wall without the leaft tracés of any monuments, front whence that place borrows its name: It is futroutided with a poor fquare wall, from whence you fee the finé tomb we have been defcribing, and of which you have the reprefentation in the following plate. In the fide I came by,.1 obferved feveral grot- tos hewn out of the rock. - About fout in the afternoon, T went from Pyrmaraes, and it was a bout eight before I arrived at Sama- chi, The next day the Armenians entertained me in one of theif gar- dens without the town, where they dréffed their victuals among the trees, of which there were feveral forts, and among the reft, willows of an extraordinary fize,quince-trees, mul- berry-trees, and others unknown — with us, and which I hall dilate on hereafter. As we weré returning, the 4rme- nmians began to fing and play by the way, after the manner of their country, and even to drink to the found of a dram; after which they went to vifit fome of their friends in the Caravanfera, fo that it was late before they returned home. Now it happ’ned that four Arimenz- ans, who had been all this time left to take cate of the houfes, were murdered in their fleep by I foe TOMBEAU DE SEID IBRAHIM. Murder oplome Perfians: Whereupon two of fur At the Armenians in our Caravanfera menians. went to complain of it to a Perfian Lord, who promifed the villains fhould be punifhed according to their demerits, in cafe they were difcovered. Review of Upon thé twenty fixth, there was the horfe. areview of fome Perfan horfe in the great court of the Khan's palace. This review had been partly made the evening before, and the reft was put off to the next day. It was performed by three hundred troop- ers at.a time, armed compleatly as for the field. Some had lances, bows and arrows, others had fire- “arms, and fome had bows and ar- rows only; indeed thefe laft had \ canes with a button at the end, which they ufe with great dexteri- ty. Under their vefts they had coats of mail and braffets, and little morions in form of caps upon their heads, with vifors; and were per- feétly well drefied after the Perfian manner, and efpecially the officers, who had vefts of gold and filver brocade. There were fome of thefe Gentlemen who had fix or feven led horfes; and private men that had one, befides another the fer- vant that led him rode upon, and another fervant on foot. The Khan was feated at the end of the court upon a place raifed up above the reft, and the horfé was in {mall diyifions at the other end, expect- ing ee oo fe oT RAVES 2703. ing to be called each by his name; ty upon which they advanced upon the gallop, by two and two, fome- times three and three, and fome- 260 of. Lords of the country who waited up-_ 1703. on the Khan, together with a great “Ns, crowd of fpectators. The pay of Payof ie thefe troops is very confiderable,’?* times four, up to the place where the Khan was feated, and having been inrolled, they filed off another way. The review being over, the trumpets founded a retreat, and this was done in two hours time, and fure it was a fight well worth the feeing. They went thro’ fome mo- tions or parts of exercife with a ve- ry peculiar grace ; tho’ indeed there were fome who were not fo exact and adroit as the reft, either from want of experience in themfelves, or ufe in their horfes. As to the reft, thofe who acquitted themfelves the beft, were rewarded with a cer- tain prize, in prefence of the chief SER and particularly the pay of the offi- cers. Every private trooper has yearly five or fix hundred florins each, and they augment their pay in proportion, as they deferve it by extraordinary fervices in times of action; befides that it is no unufual thing to make them prefents. The fons of thefe cavaliers are paid alfo as fuch; tho’ indeed they are oblig- ed to furnifha man at their own ex- pence, in times of war, when they happen to be under age. At this review there were children on horfe- back that were not above eight or ten years old, with a fervant at the fide of them. LIE NAPS NE OA ROE GHA P.. XXXIV. Departure from Samachi. Courfe of the Kur and the A- Taxes. Took my leave that day to go and join the Caravan, which was upon the very point of fetting forward. My companion Facod, “tobn de David took another road, that he might go through fome trad- ing towns where he had bufinefs, and the two other Armenians pro- mifed to follow me in a day or two. I met with fome fertile grounds in the mountains to the fouthward of the town, fome fprings and houfes, and at funfet I came up with the Caravan beyond the vil- lage of Nogdi. The next day I went to take an airing upon the top of a mountain, from whence I de- {cended to a beautiful plain we were to crofs, and at the foot of the mountain I took notice of fome fine running fprings of admirable water. One of the guides of the Caravan came tg us in the evening to let us know that it would move I Manuer of winding off filk. Arrival at Ardevil. very early the next morning. As we went over the mountains, I for the firft time faw pomegranate trees in the village of Langebus, as well as other fruit trees, and a vine load- ed with grapes; its ftem was fhort and thick, and not above an ell higher than the ground, a thing I hhad never before feen in my life. I there alfo faw a plant in bloffom, from the roots of which there came out filaments a fathom long, and ftretching along the furface; its fruit was as yet green, and looked like little cucumbers. When it is ripe, it is of a purple without, anda fine red within; many of them grow upon one plant. I drew one of them with its fruit, which the Turks call Tje-beer, and others Kou- rack; itis diftinguithed in the follow- ing plate by the letter 7 In this fame place I found another fort, whofe fruit is red, and has {mall cods or ~ blad- Rye ee Wed ee) Ly ee bladders: It grows like the other, many upon a plant, which is higher by a foot and an half or two foot. This fruit is called Doofsjandernage, and is of the fize of thofe diftin- guifhed by the letter B. After we had’ travelled over the mountains of Derbent, we came down into the fine plain, as mentioned juft now, and extends beyond the reach of the fight; but it was all parched up by the heat of the fun, and the great droughts.. The inhabitants of the country call it Kraegh. When you are at the end of the mountains, you have an imperfect fight of the Kur. About ten in the morning, when we had travelled two leagues and an half, we halted in this plain; and there we ftaid that day, and the Vou. I. next, and had very fair weather. We there had Turks and Arabians in cabbins, or hutts buile of ftraw, who furnifhed us with milk, melons, and the like; but as there was no fuch thing as wood here, we were obliged to make fires of the camels dung wherewith to drefs our vic- tuals. They always ftop in fuch places where there is the beft pa- fture for the camels and horfes. Bue the moft inconvenient circumftance there is that the water is all foul, fo that it muft be left to fettle fome time, an hour or two, or fo, to fine, which is quite terrible, when in the midft of thefe great heats, a man is ready to choak with thirft ; nor is it poflible to take with one a fufficient ftock of wine, becaufe of ait the ON AR Se a EG AE es ee eat | | Le ag here gees Were Ae Ag en ee To tM, 162 The TRAVELS 1703, Ree great number of bales a Caravan is incumbered with; fo that in this of a the waters were very low at that 3703. time, the bottom of the river was ey? i eee ee ea ee ee eS (7 i fee Tee C= ne i + fi = ea fe-a-Man-4s- obliged toumake.a vir- tue of neceffity, and to’take up with curdled. milk, which they there call Louvert, and which they put into a cloth bag, through which the whey runs off. They then, to quench thirft, mix thefe curds with water, a practice very com- mon with the Turks ; fo that you have both ‘meat and drink at once. sot, and ferves inftead : Bok | cream. a mixed with fugar. a We did. not léave this plain till the “thirtieth in the evening, and travel- - led away to the fouthward acrofs this plain. ‘ther Caravan, and fome Turks un- der tents. fa league ti | and Araxes, “famous ri- E this place that the 4- op they mouth, whence it of Algeron, ‘and the Kir from the “north of Tilvies, wheré it runs ‘by. the town of that name. Having united their waters together, they go away towards the north-eatt, be- yond Sgawad, from thence they con- tinue their courfe eaft, and go wind- ing away till they are loft in the Cafpian. or the teft, ic would be no eafy tafk to trace out their in- tricate meanders. I drew as well as I could the place where thefe two rivers meet, as you may fee in numb. 45, where they divide the country of Mogan from Media or Shirwan. ‘The Araxes is diftinguifh- - ed by 4, the Kur by B, and their united ftreams by C. ~ We fent our bales over to the o- ther fide in feveral boats to the vil- lage, where we had halted, and our horfes and camels fwam over, which amounted to a two days work. As At break of oe we got to be feen in feveral places, and a great bank of fand in ‘the middle, on the fide of which, however, it was very deep, and where the ca- mels were obliged to fwim over. When the waters are low here, they comimonly make a bridge of boats, made faft together by a “large iron chain, which they caft off when the river fwells and widens; but ic was not yet ready. On the other fide there are two or three {mall houfes made of reed, where Ahey wind off filk. ‘more than the affiftance of one erfon at a time. ‘There was, on the right hand going in,’ a ftove which they heated from without, — and i in which there was a great ‘cale. ‘ pes of almoft boiling water, “ir ch v ere fat upon this ftove, on one fide of the caldron, and with a = ftick {mall cottage I alfo ae a large wheel of eight or nine palms in dia- meter, and which was fixed between - two pofts, which he turned with his foot as he fat upon the ftove, juft as we turn a {pinning wheel ; and be- fore the ftove there were two {fticks, upon which there was a reed, round which turned two finall pullies which guide the filk from the cods to this wheel. They affured me that this manner and method of winding off filk is tke common one all over Perfia; and confeffed it muft be that they this way do it with fur- prifing eafe and difpatch. ‘The cods, however, were not very large. Mott of the trees I obferved here- abouts were young, and were very fhort ftemmed, that they may al- ways have leaves upon young branches, the worms not caring for the leaves of old wood. Thefe gar= dens are furrounded with willows and alders, and are divided from each other by partitions of reed, as well as the houfes, tho’ there are fome I had the Cu- Manner of riofity to go into them, and found “nrg met withano- that at this work they require no JF the cods of the worms, = ~The perfon that wound off the filk tet ners aete ere - 7 esas 3S : 2c gaan! ena BN Gn afoorennlircnrae ennceei'e Ce re ed a eel ap sa al bi aang 1S a RRR a a ER ERR Oe Se | AE pM NERS So Eo oan EN Ae par amet a ha € : 5 ? i $ 3 i ES - : 3 ; t ee a eet Leen ee SS ce NEN iy aun? NESARN i) AN See SIA —<— ao Stes Coos TOS SS SORTS —— = x = oes SSNS = SS SASSESS SESS Sas SSS = SSE ESOS TUTE = > = aS | Lis RIVIERES KuUR,E = —— SSS —— ts = z Z = Listescere a= : 3 = ; SESS Po = a tr 4 ee = Se Rg ee ies es LE GE: a= i cas fom pA: es iti Behr et S Nit Ni ) Seapets , 4 gins Miya cide Siuih eae ae iesedacgs NG Iie ne abated eS eRe eae Matas RE = - CORNED US HE BRIUY 171 We there halted in the plain, by 1703. 1703. part, but there fell fuch a quantity 1 | the fide of a fmall river which runs 7” ”™~ \-v~ of rain, that they were obliged to put off the journey till the ¢we//td. Some 4rmenzan priefts came to me here, and begged of me to contri- bute fomething towards the build- ing of a church, dedicated to Saint ‘fobn, which they were at work up- on in a village not far from the town. I made them a fmall pre- fent, and wifhed them all manner of fuccefs in their undertaking. Upon the eleventh, I prepared for my departure, after we had been a month at Ardevi/, and fent my bag- gage to the caravan. Rifing early in the morning of the next day, I met with a great number of Per/jans, who were going through the town, finging and rejoicing for their happy return from Mecca, where they had been on pilgrimage to the tomb of their prophet Mobammed. It was bree in the afternoon when the caravan began to move, facing to the fouthward, and having croffed the plain, we came into mountains, from whence you have an advan- tageous profpect of the town and the villages about, which have a very pleafing effect; but we were there a little too far off to fee objects diftin@tly. ‘The caravan halted at the village of Sardale, three leagues from the town; but we were taken with fo thick a fog, upon entering the mountains, that it was as much as we could do to fee them: The foil about this village, which 1s of tolerable extent, is very fertile, and abounds in corn, which was heap- ed up on all fides. We departed from hence at ¢bree in the morning, and compleated our journey over the mountains; and when you are beyond them, the higheft feem to have their tops hid in the clouds. The foil there alfo is pretty fertile, and full of peafants who were tilling the ground with oxen and buffaloes. Having paffed through feveral vil- _ lages, we, at me, came to that of Koraming, which is tolerably large, and furrounded about with heaps of corn. 4 a Shooting © through it, and faw a number of;;,¢., 4 {nipes and thrufhes, of which [killed a good number, together with two young wild ducks. The grounds a- bout thefe villages are full of wil- lows, alders, and fruit-trees. We here waited for the reft of our com- panions that were left behind, and in the mean time I drew the profpect you have in number 51. Towards evening, the fog came upon us again, and continued till midnight, when we came among the higheft mountains, with a fine moonlight, and upon the fifteenth in the morning, came to the village of Fattaba. At break of day the next morn we moved on again among the mountains. The two Armenians, my friends, who ftaid behind us, came and joined us this night; and upon the /eventeenth, having travelled over many rocks, we halted among the mountains. ‘That day we came up with our camels, which had gone before us, and half a league from thencé we faw the famous mount Taurus, called by the inhabitants, Mons Cafelufan. into the country, and affumes differ- ent names, according to the places it crofles; but it retains its true name in the fouthern parts of A/a Minor. There are authors who confound it with mount Caucafus. At three in the morning we began to afcend it, found it very fteep and full of rocks, with vaft fifflures, and It ftretches far away ip Tanrus- frightful precipices, and as the roads Frighiful and paths of it are very narrow, and?"?rrre- very dangerous withal, we were obliged to alight from our horfes and go on foot. It moft common- ly requires but an hour to go over it; but we took up two, becaufe our caravan was more than ufually nu- merous. As you go down, you fee precipices which ftrike the traveller with horror in the night. When you are clear of this mountain, you come into a plain of pretty large ex- tent, which you crofs to the left, and come to another mountain, or Pex ther ee a oe we oe. The 1703. ther branch of mount Faurus, ~~~ which here divides itfelf into two, River ¢ between which runs the river of Kifilofan. Kz/ilofan, which they alfo call Kurp: It is very rapid in its courfe, and has feveral falls among the rocks, where it tumbles down with great violence; it {fprings up in the weft, and runs into the Ca/pian fea. Over this ri- ver King Jamar built a ftone bridge, “ which is ten paces broad, and one hundred and fifty paces long ; it is tolerably lofty, and has fix arches, three of which are very wide. Be- tween four of thefe arches, there are three openings, and between the reft a kind of an half round tower. The river at prefent only runs un- der one or two of thefe arches, un- lefs the waters be very high indeed. Having got over this bridge, we halted to wait for :the caravan; in the mean time the Armenians betook them to their coffee, and I to take upon paper the profpect Fine you have in number 52. We then perfpedtiveeafcended the fecond mountain, or branch of the Zaurus, which is high- er, vafter, and more fteep than the former; but as we were much fa- tigued with having travelled over the firft on foot, we were obliged to ftop feveral times to take breath. At length coming to a better way, we mounted our horfes again, and at break of day gained the top. The 272 TRAVELS of reft of the caravan did the fame two 1703. hours after us, and half a league“ farther on we came into a fine and well-cultivated country. At nine in the morning we got to the vil- lage of Kafiebeggidarafi; where, for the firft time, they brought us grapes, at the rate of four-pence a pound; and the ways are very good beyond mount Taurus, as well as the foil. From thence you have fight of ano- ther mountain, higher than the for- Mousteix mer, and continually capped with Sawa ow; but we halted a day to reft “" ourfelves. Upon the fwentieth, at three in the morning we proceeded on our journey, amid very fine weather, and by /evez, we reached the neighbourhood of a brook not far from famkoela. Here they have extraordinary birds called Baeker- Kara. We then went through fe- veral villages, whence you fee mount Taurus at a diftance, in the manner it is reprefented in number 53- Upon the fwenty fecond, we crofled a great plain, bordered by hills and mountains on the left hand, where they brought us grapes of a moft exquifite flavour. Upon the ‘wenty third, we arrived at the town of Samgael, beyond which we halted, and there met with very fine pomegranates of a beautiful colour and middling fize, grapes and other fruits. CCBY MRR BIOTIN LCD OVI RILEY A DYED BRE DYT CoP AMP, KR VI. Defcription of Samgael, and of the places on the road thither. Arrival at Com. E were obliged to ftay here the next day to wait for the officers of the cuftoms, who live Situation withoutthe town. Samgael has the ae look of a village, though there are there fome lofty and well built houfes, confidering the country, fome of earth only, and others of earth and {tone together. ‘They have here a fine bazar, which is covered and vaulted, and where they keep the principal fhops, and_ particularly thofe of the drapers, where they fell all forts of cotton ftuffs and cloths. ‘There are, however, other covered fhops in other parts of the town, and a number of mofchs a- dorned with domes, the chief of 4 which eine cata any ~ ee es ene eee eins me i set ee ee aed + iktee atk atest fant oot era ee ee 2 3 bs SP va at hh ate es PS Ae mem es z : z - eS Pa aie 2% * 3 a % % ‘ i 3 ye ? y % é Canna pee ane ane HUE] ECA UL, Vor aup =< ————— S AN ——, — (OT LEAT aT AD A A OA a caer” PP Oe 6 at . : : ew matey aie iey hi ano ote fg! nh seen anitanarenarty AG | asa: Dra ehae® se MIO anne tney SSOP 5 . Dieta Ay Mess Se Saree ve 3 2 ee ee ee i eee 8 | a CORNELYDPUS2DPEOBR U YR, 173 on the twenty fixth, we had much 1703. 1703. which is painted a fine green, and rain, and croffed the plain in the “WW VN glazed blue on the outfide. There is one running to ruin, which is pret- ty lofty with a dome, and which the Turks made ufe of, when they became mafters of this place ; but though itis not very large, it ftands pleafantly in a plain, with high mountains to the weft. Half a league from thence there runs a ftream of fine clear water, where our caravan halted, in a place full of trees and walled gardens. Idrew a prof{pect of this town to the north- eaft, as you fee it in number ¢4. The letter A diftinguifhes the ruin- ous mofch of the Turks: the letter B points out the principal mofch, and Ca great demolifh’d building. And this is all that is remarkable at this place, which is defticute of all traces whereby to guefs at its antiquity, tho’ very ancient it is, and tho’ it was a very flourifhing place in the days of Tamerlane ; but it was after- wards deftroyed by the Turks. There is but one caravanfera here; it is indifferently large, built of earth and clay, and the {mall river of Sa- ganfhaey runs to the eaft of it, and thence goes and throws itfelf among the mountains, where I drew the profpect you have in number gs. This town is governed by a Darcega or Bailif, and there for every horfe- load of filk and cloth you pay the fum of thirty pence, and but fifteen for commodities of lefs value. In the evening it began to rain, which it continued to do till about two hours before fun-rife. Upon the twenty fifth we purfued our journey, with a fine road, the officers of the cuftoms having agreed to meet us at the place where we were to bait that day, there to receive their dues. We pafied in fight of feveral vil- lages, and {topped at Kurkjandy, three leagues to the fouth-eaft of the town. In this place there is a branch of the Taurus, which ftretches away from north to fouth, towards Curdeftdn, inhabited by the Curds, who livein villages: they fay they have never- thelefs a {mall fortrefs in the moun- tains, called Keyder Peyamber. Up- Vor, I. midft of it, travelling on towards the mountains, and at break of day we faw Su/tania on our right, two leagues from the place, where we had paffed a part of the night. This town ftands in a plain, near moun- tains which almoft incompafs ic round, with that of Keyder on the right hand; but as the guides of our caravan had no manner of bufinefs there, and as there is no going into it without paying certain duties, we, to my very great regret, pafled by it. They had, however, flattered me they fhould ftop at a place not far off, but they not doing as they had faid, I rode back towards the town, and {topped upon an eminence near the eaft fide of it, where I drew the profpec&t you have in number 56. It has four great mofchs, the three chief of which have large domes, and in one of them is the tomb of Soltan Mohammed Khoda- bend, who, as they fay, laid the foundations of it about four hun- dred years ago: they affured me this tomb is magnificent and well built, and that the chapel of it is adorned with gold and filver. Ic looks moft charmingly from with- out. Toaun of Sultania. This town has neither gates nor Defeription walls, and all the houfes of it are% * built of earth, lime and clay. Ic has eight or ten caravanferas, and fome bazars, but not confiderable, nor, indeed, can it be reckoned a trading place ; tho’ formerly, before it was deftroyed by Tamerlane, it was one of the firft towns in Perfia. 'The royal palace, once its moft fump- tuous building, is now no more. Half a league from the town, there are the ruins of an old ftone tower and gate, which it is likely belong- ed to the old city, which is in 36 degrees, 30 minutes of northern Ja- titude. I was two. hours before I could overtake the caravan, which had held on its way, and about noon we halted at the village of Tbalis, the neighbourhood of which abounds Y ¥ with 174 (ABT RAVER & of 1703. with dacker-kaeraes, birds not very fhree in the morning we proceeded 1703. - &\- different from our partridges, except farther through a road full of hills “Ww Remarka- that they are larger, and have whit- ou birds +) bellies and wings: they fly in flocks, pretty high, and delight in tilled grounds: I killed one of them ; it was very heavy, well fed, and of a delicious tafte. Two hours before day, we pur- fued our journey, and after a ftretch of five hours, we arrived at Grom- dora,, a town of large extent, full of trees and gardens, and by the fide of a fine ftream. Its houfes are in- differently good, and fome of them are even pretty lofty. We departed hence at. the fame hour as the day before, and travelled over the fame plain, the mountains that incompafs it being at the diftance of about a league from each other. The grounds were fown, and the country thick fet with villages. The country people there make little mounds of earth to keep in the water, and by the road fide there are conduits of water to water the land, We then went through two villages, whofe mofchs had a kind of fteeples, a fight rare to be feen in this country: they are very broad at bottom, and terminate in a point or {pire : they told me they were the tombs of faints to which they had added mofchs. About noon we went down a hollow way almoft quite furrounded by a con- duit or canal of water, which was five or fix foot broad, whofe water ran over violently in two places, and fpread over the lands from north- weit to fouth-eaft. In this place we and Toucek/y, the laft of which, which ‘is the fmalleft of the two, is inclofed with a mud wall like a garden, which you go into by a large gate. The firft is very large, full of trees and gardens, and the coun- try about is very pleafant. The two villages with fteeples, which we juft now mentioned, are of the fame name and in the fame diftriGt, tho’ | at a good diftance from each other. sti In this place the mountains feem to terminate. That day we travelled a journey of five leagues, and at , Ly Pe eee Re) kt Vig eee ae = —_ found two villages called Parfabeim and villages to the right and left, whence at the break of day we defcried fome mountains covered with fnow. We afterwards crofled a fmall river three or four times ; we had very fine and mild weather quite to Gihara, where every one fheltered himfelf under the ruins of a low wall, a thing common enough in thefe parts. ‘This town contains above five hundred houfes, moft of them low and upon an eminence ; fo that from a diftance a man might miftake it for a fortrefs. It is full of trees and gardens, and about it are a great number of uninhabited houfes. You have a reprefentation of it in number 57. | Provifions abound in this place, Angoert a bird fa cal. where we had excellent mutton,/”; good fowls and melons, the feed of which I preferved. I there fhot an Angoert, a bitd fo called, which is fomewhat like a duck, but it flies higher, and ftruts with the head up like a cock, and delights in water. The body of it is red and the neck of a yellow ruffet quite to the eyes, about which it is white to the bill, which is black: its wings are white, red, and black; my dog brought it to me alive. You have the repre- fentation of a {mall village in num- ber 58; and of the bird in num- ber 59. . This part of the country alfo a= Cotton. bounds in cotton-trees, a branch of which I drew as as you fee it in number 60. It has three or four pods, in the condition they are in when the fruit is not perfectly ripe ; as you may obferve by one of the four which is burft open and full of cotton. They either gather them, or they fall of themfelves, when the pod is open, and begins to wi- ther. The outward colour of it is purple, and has a delightful effec with the white within, when it burfts and opens. Upon the ¢hirtzeth, we continued in this fame place, to give our horfes fome reft. About noon there pafled by a Pok/h Ambaffador from Ypaban, 2 OUR de She nan manent RRR I TS - ’ E AUPRES VILLAG: aa Muy (H44 WY, Liye re Y iy GEE WANN A Ni \ \ NAN SY \ een TREY) Phe SR SUR RN ER RCE CPR CER RT Rema eRe ICID SS RR RE ROE SSR RE ETE RP ESS SSE RS RR RC PR RET RRR RS on SS SS SS SS SS Ss SS SSS SS SSS { ‘se t c i i » 2 - f ; . AN : PRA x i 6 \ 1 wees RRR : 5 { ; 3 S ‘ l f. | { “if, os H | : ‘ \ N 1 \ \ { > c r r Fi ca i A eed ct Sani taser omer: DealalrropsAvssroviertepent : : ) Fee Pie ON tenet Pegg ; ao wg ; See ea ae Pe eae So ey Nagen L i ee a ee ee ee te Be teenie pam perme 8 A ps enh ges eee eerie tte: dies tle-enien b = ehh ety aah ie a ~ hale Ne Pm 7 notin Rte wed ne ( ice aN J - * yo mY, Ce ee ee ee ee een i ee i cr re See LSD GERD Ce Set ie Reet Re Pane He eR = — Ze TSS Se Se CPL ap ete SSS eee = Zirh ae Cats SUT RUINES DE LA VILLE CoHM. Fy jem aae a Fae Zt ———— : ee Sea ZZ Ss SESS SS SS3 SE ees MEP acy - WF Ics neheoe eee HH rv tea ae | 4 { 4 { CORNELIUS LE BRUYN. 195 1703. I/paban, on his way to his own pay certain duties; butas it is going 1708. UVv™\ country. Iwas alone at my fport a day’s journey out of the way o“VN) when I met him, and fome of his train obferving me to be dreffed in the fafhion of Holland, called out to me, but I not minding them, as thinking they were Per/ians, two or three of them rode up to me, and told me, in Italian, that they were Europeans. While I was talking with them, the Ambaffador himéelf went by: They afked me what news from Europe, but I told them it was fix months fince I came from Mofcow, and that, confequently, I could give them no manner of in- formation about the matter. They had pafled the night in the village next to where we were, and defired me to recommend them to their friends at I/paban, and promifed to do the fame for me at Mofcow, and thereupon they purfued their jour- ney. They were about thirty per- fons on horfeback, and had three or _four banneroles or fmall ftandards with them, and were followed by twenty three camels, laden with their baggage. At three in the morning we re- fumed our road, and having travel- led four leagues, we came to Sak- fawa, a great village, like the for- mer, full of trees. Onthe right hand there are ruins of a large build- ing, and on the left thofe of a large caravanfera, reprefented in number 61. We were here obliged to ftay, to pay the ordinary duties, and IJ in the mean time diverted myfelf with fhooting at pigeons. As we travelled on, we pafled by a place full of fena; this tree is a very pleafant one to lookat, and, as I had never feen of them before, I was charmed with ic, and fhall give a defcription of it in the fequel. In the village of Arafangh, we found ftore of pomgranates, a very refrefh- ing fore of fruit, and very cheap. Leaving this we went over a hill, leaving the plain on the left hand, to get into the road that goes to Com, There is another on the right hand of this village that goes to Sawa, whither we fhould have gone to Com, and as they are thereby liable to the payment of three different im- pofts, whereas they are liable to but one by going diectly to Com, the ca- ravan commonly choofes this laft. After a journey of five hours we refted ourfelves in a plain, between fome hills, near the village of Hane geran, where there is very good bread, and from thence we went on to Saranda. There we, for the firft time, drank wine of Ardevil, which is white and pleafant enough to the palate, but it is not allowed to be fold. This village is furround- ed with wells, fupplied with water by a fubterraneous canal in the vil- lage. Upon the fourth of Novem- ber we departed, and after a ftage of feven leagues, we, at one in the afternoon, reached Angelawa, two hours before the reft of the cara- van: this village is but feven leagues from Com. ‘This partis alfo full of » wells, or fprings, four or five paces from each other, and the water of them is alfo conveyed under ground to the village. Perfia is all over full of fuch fprings and fubterrane- ous conveyances. Here there are ravens of extraordinary fize: but the land here being ftrongly impreg- nated with falt-peter the water 1s brackifh. Ourcamels went on be- fore us in the night, but the cuf- tom-houfe officers of Sawa having feized upon one of them, laden with two bales of cloth, becaufe we had not pafled by that place, and becaufe this is under one and the fame territory or jurifdiction, we were obliged to turn back again, and ftay in this place till the Jixth of November, whence we de- arted before day. Coming upon a {mall ditch or trench which we did not perceive, feveral of our horfes fell in, and amongft the reft mine, but by good chance they were gotoutagain, Atninein the morn- ing we came upon the banks of the river Sawafiaey, which comes from Sawa: it is very broad in fome places, and runs away to the fouth- 3 ward, ae ee ee ee Oe Se eee The T RA VOR LS! of went through a town full of houfes ; 1703. but they were all empry ; it is likely “WY 176 1703. ward, in a plain between high wy Remarka- ble rocks. Situation grounds. It happened that we had unwarily got into a fandy plain, be- tween fome downs of moving fand, where it is impoffible to travel with- out danger. Behind thefe downs there are lofty mountains, between which is the road to Sawa and to Com. As we had been informed that thofe who had feized on our camels, intended us a fecond vifit, we put ourfelves fo vigoroufly upon our guard that they did not dare re- peat the attempt. About e/even we reached a ftony mountain, whofe rocks reprefent all forts of objects, a furprizing thing to behold: I drew them at diftance, together with the mountain on the right hand of the town: you have a reprefentati- on of this in number 62; the firft is like the head and neck of an ani- mal, and the reft are to the full as remarkable. In our way thither we the inhabitants were all in tents a- broad, tending their cattle. There is a great ftone bridge at the entrance into the town, by the fide of which we faw a great number of tents pitch- ed, and in them people of all forts of condition, with horfes by them, tyed to each other. They told us thefe people, among whom there were more women than men, were upon a pilgrimage, to vifit the tombs of feveral Saints. We were half an hour in going through the town, to the end of the old walls, where we got up our tents in a place where there are many ancient ruins. The reft of the caravan did not arrive till two hours after us, having been under a neceffity to crofs feveral narrow bridges, which had delayed them. We ftaid here the next day, and had very charming weather. NYSE NL Nb LSYLSIL SU SUSU SLL SYS, WLS SLY SSS, 3. WSL IL IY NLS, SYS SYS SLL MLSS fp NAY PINNING SoS IS TASTES TS DSSS SDR T ESI 08 STS SRN RSI AIST IR IRIS CHAP. XXXVII Defcripti d h Cath Arri efcription of Com and of Cachan or Cathan. rrival at Mpahan, Uring the time I ftaid here I vi- and belonged to fome public edifice eiics fited the infide of the town, or fome mofch. They ftand upon after I had fatisfied my curiofity with a fquare wall raifed above the a view of its antiquities and ruins, ground, nearly of the height of concerning which I fhall be more thefe fame columns, and the por- Tombs in Aiffufe in the fequel. In the great tal of this wall is a great vaulted nol ee mofch of Muzyd or Ma-zyt-mat/a- arcade: the two others are at a ‘ma there is the tomb of Fatma-fora, diftance from each other and more the fifter of Mobammed and wife of Ali; and near that another mofch where they preferve the afhes of Abbas King of Perfia, of fome other Kings, and among the reft of Shab Suliman, the father of Shah Hofezn, the King that reigns at prefent. Thefe two mofchs are of a fine fort of archite@ure, and have domes glazed with green. As you go into the town, you fee four columns of about thirty fix foot high, the two firft of which are joined together, 5 damaged. Upon the top of the two firft there is a kind of capital of no order, and three different faf- cia’s about them. They feem to be pretty equal to the fight, and yet they are more taper at top than at bottom, and above the capital they have a moulding of green and gold, fomewhat disfigured. ‘They are at fome diftance from the Bazar, which is of the moft ordinary fort, as well as the reft of the town; nor was I furprized at it, for it is by «A eee Ge dea Wong Ser ‘ Kon Boi 4% Ale enti UTA ANU ity ae I i ll il af | lh > om BAH = — memset AIA UC OAs ful 65 | i) | f { \ | if mn \ iia Wages i y Vi“ A, vy AX HA Ve TT *, wr ‘ a) 4 \ it) 7 as2 wy Paley { ¢ % P ‘ = ¥ ” N m R ; Rr ce er te ee ees «eater dineenelgyh expe jie tei at Wika esteaelns aia rd oa ON eae ec ea rar! 2 yee ea ee eins einige Somncmient ene co ae rent iB a Oe i tb Nahe rip ae aad Chet nit : OMe 2 a ae e f & ; ge Selene 1703. vn Bridge of Com. River of Combhay. * A pub- lic fquare. Pyramid. CORNELIUS by no means a trading place. There is a great building near the bridge over which you go into the town, with a fine and fpacious court, in the midft of which there is a bafon. It is a kind of mofch or chapel, where they pretend to have the re- mains of the fifter of Imam Rifa, and Imam Anu hammed who flou- rifhed feven hundred and fifty years ago. This tomb is held in great veneration, becaufe this Lady, as they will have it, was of the pofteri- ty of Mobammed, and accordingly there are always fome perfons of diftinGtion there. The bridge, we juft now men- tioned, is one hundred paces in length and eight in breadth, with a {mall brick parapet two foot high. This bridge, which is built of {mall ftones, has ten arches, under fome of which runs the river of Com/bay, when it is low, but efpecially when itis high. They relate that there was a great inundation in this town in the year 1591, and that it {wept away about twelve hundred houfes ; which being reported to King Abbas, he ordered a dyke of two leagues in length to prevent the like difafter for the time to come. This town is divided into twenty four quarters or diftri@s, and con- tains two thoufand one hundred houfes, in each of which there is a well, not to {peak of three hun- dred abenbaars or cifterns. It has four gates, four Bazars, and a * meydoen, feveral bagnio’s and a great number of mofchs and cha- pels. There are no antiquities to be feen on this fide, but there are on the other, where the caravan ftopped, within the enceint of the old town, formerly called Chonana ftanding in Media, which as is fup- pofed extended to Cachan, and toa mountain which was as a boundary to it; a tract of country, which the inhabitants call Arak. In this place, at fome diftance from the wall. there isa round py- ramid, which is feventy eight paces in circumference and forty eight in height, provided with four thelving 7 OL. J. i2h aH UY Ne walls without fteps ; its entrance is ftopped up with rubbith.. The walls are a fathom thick, and the defcent, taken obliquely, a fathom and an half ; then they fetch a great flope and go as deep into the ground as they are above the furface, where this pyramid is {mooth and round. You may look into it by certain holes, but into it there is no go- ing, and what is more extfaerdina- ty it feems to have been done de- fignedly. Upon the whole, it is moft likely to have been a monu- ment: you have it reprefented in number 63. There are other ruins on the right hand of this pyramid, and among others, the remains of a {mall chapel. The decayed wall of the town reaches a good way beyond thefe ruins, but it is diffi. cult to diftinguifh any thing of it in particular. However, two or three hundred paces from the py- ramid, as you return to the town, there is a part of this wall tolera- bly entire and flanked with round towers, which are very much gone to ruin: they are to the number of ten, are about forty foot high, and very thick and fubftantial at bot- tom ; you fee them reprefented in number 64, with the ruins of a gate which was five paces deep, as much in breadth, and the wall was of the fame thicknefs. All the reft of the buildings are of earth, clay, and {mall ftones dried in the fun. For my part, I own, I never faw any ancient building of this kind ; but IT am neverthelefs per- fe€tly perfuaded thefe are ruins of the old town, and the rather as the ancients make mention of the like buildings of earth dried in the fun, anda kind of lime made of clay. The facred hiftorians likewife take notice that the builders of the tower of Babel made ufe of the like kind of earth inftead of ftone, and of clay inftead of lime. And this is the more natural to conclude with regard to this country, as the fun is here very powerful, and con- fequently foon able to dry up earth to the nature of ftone. t feemsto yg? me ee 1704; The 1703. me alfo that they have mixed chop- av ~ ped ftraw with this earth, to make TRAVELS of arrived at feven in the morning. 1703. One part of the caravan went tov 178 Arrival at Cafhan. N it bind the better. In the fame manner they continue to build to this day, and all over Perfa you fee of this earth dried in the fun, and clay, of which they make lime. And, to fay the truth of the mat- ter, their houfes are mean enough, and laft but a little while, nor do they ever think of repairing them. From thence I went to the north- weit of the town, where there are no eminences, and from thence drew the view you have in number 65. The letter A diftinguifhes the great mofch called Mat/ama: B-that of the Kings: C the bridge : D the mofch of the great building : E the . two principal columns of the edifice we have mentioned. In the fame plate you may alfo obferve how the other columns are divided from each other. Upon the eighteenth of November. we left Com an hour before day, and paffing by the old wall, we came into a plain full of villages. A league farther we faw two great ruined towers. We pafled the day in a village where there is a fine {tream of clear water, three leagues to the fouthward of the town; and a league beyond we faw the remains of an ancient {quare building with very fubftantial walls: they fay it was formerly a fortrefs. There is an- other on the fide of this, with fe- veral apartments. A league and an half from thence, we faw a large garden, furrounded with a high {quare wall, About emght, we got into a rough ftony plain, with lof- ty mountains on the right hand, and villages on all fides. Upon the ninth, we refted ourfelves at the vil- lage of Szufin, feven leagues from the place where we had pafied the night: this village is tolerably large, and in it are feveral ruined build- ings and caravanferas. We left it at two inthe morning, and at break of day met with feveral travellers in a place full of trees, and well cultivated. At break of day we per- ceived Cachan | Cafhan] where we lodge in the town, and the other in the caravanfera in the fuburbs. The houfes of it are fair and regular, and larger than thofe of the city, which is reckoned one of the chief in Perfia ; nor indeed had I ever feen any till then to compare with it. As it is at no very great diftance from I/paban, we there found the inhabitants more civil and polite, than in the other cities we had paf- fed through. and is called Ka/ffian, Kajfan, Ka/- jfraan and Cafhan, and ftands at the end of a great plain, near the foot of a lofty mountain. I drew ic from the north-eaft, in this plain, whence it makes the moft confider- able figure. On the left of this town you fee a pyramid like that of the ruined building at Com: the whole is to be feen in number 66. The Governor or Commander Governor. in chief here is called a Vifier, who is inferior in dignity to a Khan as a Khan is inferior to a Beglerbeg, whom they muft both of them obey ; he even frequently fends them into other places. The walls of this town are about thirty fix foot high, and it has fe- ven gates without reckoning that of Danlet. To the north-weft there is a fine meydoen, with a kind of tilt- yard, above which are two {mall columns ; upon that without there is a ftaff on which they hoift a flag when there is a tournament. This meydoen or tilt-yard is feven hun- dred and feventy paces long, and one hundred broad. As you go out of the gate, on the right hand, you have the royal garden, inclofed with Reyai It is largesar4n. ‘a wall thirty foot high. and traverfed by a well kept canal, and full of fine trees, well difpofed, among the reft pines and pomegra- nate trees; and thereto belongs a pleafure-houfe buile by bbas the Great. This wall has four great gates, and two {mall ones ; from the firft of them which is near that of the town, you go into a fine ca- go ravanfera It is in 35 degrees Defripsi- 51 minutes of northern latitude,” ¥ * = SS Ss SEE SS WS SS SS SSSs Sx SS if if Hig jh ute Hint Ut —= = , ait : 3 : iH Glan i CORNELIUS LE BRUYN. 1703. ravanfera inhabited by Indians: it V™ is {pacious and of furprizing beauty, 179 gate to the other. Theré are fe- 1703. veral others near this, and particu- —V~ Bazar. being thirty fix paces deep, and fe- ven broad: the vault of it is crown- ed with a dome, upon which there is a lanthorn after the Itaian man- ner; and it has twoarcades on the fide, whence you fee the apart- ments. Having crofled it youcome into a court one hundred paces long, by eighty broad, furround- ed by a building two ftories high, which has fifteen arcades on each fide in length, and ten in breadth, under which there are rooms one upon another ; befides which there are {mall projecting rooms or clo- fets which have a charming effect ; fo that this caravanfera furpafles all lever faw. A little beyond this gate you come to a fecond witha fine arcade; and upon finding it open, I went into the garden which is full of great and {mall trees well kept: the third gate is that of a great and very lofty building, above the wall of the garden. From the fourth you go to a wide court, and all round it is fhelter for horfes : the two {mall gates admit into the gar- den only. On the other fide there is another, but neither fo fine nor fo large as the firft, tho’, as well as that, it be furrounded with walls. Over-againft this caravanfera there is an afcent of fifty ftone fteps, and beneath, a place which apparently muft be a tank or refervoir for wa- ter, the walls and vault of which are of {mall ftones, very neatly put together. The gate of the town is vaulted alfo, and eighty paces deep, with a dome like that of the cara- ranfera. From thence you go into a fine bazar, well vaulted and pla- f{tered, and ftored with the fhops of confectioners , druggifts , paftry- cooks, goldfmiths, farriers, brafiers and cooks, where you have all forts of victuals ready dreft, roafted and _ boiled; bakers, fruiterers and the like; every fhop takes up a vault, and the whole is very regular and charmingly neat. This bazar, in the midft of which there is the mint, runs.crofs the town from one larly one which has gates and is fhut up, where they fell cloths and all forts of filks and the like. An- other there is belonging to the filk- dyers, where you fee delightful co- lours. Thefe bazars are fo well co- vered that you are always fheltered from the rain, and the coffee-houfes 2 are there always full of people ~~ {moaking. on one file of thefe bazars, and you go into them by a great vaulted gate ; fome of them are fine and two fto- ries high, with five or fix {teps be- fore the apartments, and the num- ber of them is very confiderable in this town, where they make moft of the filk and gold and filver ftuffs in fuch quantity that they every day ufe feven bales of filk, which weigh one thoufand five hundred and twelve pounds. of the town there are wells like that in the royal garden we have mentioned. pretty lofty towers, but few large domes, and thofe there are, are not coloured. This city has feven gates, as has been faid, two of which are always kept fhut, and feveral mey- doens. : They have here fruits and flowers at all feafons of the year, and the fruits are here fooner ripe than elfe- where; fo that in the fpring-time they here fell melons, grapes, apri- cots, mulberries, pomegranates, cu- cumbers, and efpecially moft charm- ing water-melons. ‘They fay there are feventy aqueducts, which con- vey water to this town; and ney there alfo reckon one hundred and twenty bagnio’s and a great number of tanks to which they go down by feveral fteps. The. number of The caravanferas are C474v" feras. The * meydoens* Public here are fmall, and in many parts/““"*" The mofchs here have Mofhs mills here amounts to one hundred “4; b oufes, and twenty, and that of the houfes willages. to three thoufand, divided into three wards or diftricts, one thoufand in each. Befides all which there are fixty villages under the jurifdiction of this town. At Fien, there is a royal houfe, b Remarka+ le foun where tain’ 380 The 1703. where there is a fountain or bafon iv made, as they fay, in the reign of den. Suliman, the water of which comes from a high mountain called’ Rochz *t Sabil, and is conducted to Cachan by the means of 27 mills built in the reign of Abbas. ‘That which comes from the mountain of Demawend tuns away towards Ke: and Thabaraan: they call ic the river of Dzadzje- vaan, and it goes and empties the reft of its water in the Ca/pian fea. You have a fight of this mountain when you are between Com and Cachan. ms 210 Upon the ¢hirteenth, we left this town two hours before day; and crofled a fandy plain, and for fome leagues had fmall raifed downs on our left hand. That day we tra- velled fix leagues, and having refted ourfelves a while, we proceeded on our journey at two in the morning, continuing ftill in the fame plain, bordered by mountains covered with fnow on our right hand. At break of day we came to the foot of the higheft of them, and crofled a river among the reft, and afterwards a plain, at the end of which we per- ceived a village, together with fe- veral others between the mountains and hills. After a flage of feven leagues we got to the village of Ghor, a league from the {mall town of Nathaus. This village is a charm. ing place, and you have it repre- fented in number 67. Being upon an eminence, it looks like a fortrefs at a diftance, on the left hand of which you fee a {mall mofch, and a country which extends beyond the reach of the fight. We departed from hence two hours before day, and about /even came to a large plain, where there were five or fix villages by the fide Royal gar-of each other, and two fine gar- dens, the laft of which was fur- rounded by a good wall, half a league in‘ circumference, and has a remarkable dove-houfe concerning which we fhall fpeak in the fequel. On one fide of this garden is a large houfe which belongs to the King, and a fmall village called Pad/ha- TARA a7 UB Ins bath. Having crofled this plain We, 1703. came among hills and mountains, ~~~ fome''of which were capped with fnow;’ and after a ftretch of feven leagues, we came to the caravan- fera of Sardahan,’ where certain duties are paid. We there went over a kind of torrent, which: falls and ‘tumbles among the rocks, and whofe water, confifting of melted fnow from the mountains, is admi- rable. You have this caravanfera reprefented, and another near ‘it in number 68. The firft is a {pacious {tone building with a yaulted en- trance, twenty foot deep and with a ftep of three foot. {pring of water near the fecond, There is’a which is but {mall. An ‘hour after midnight we tra- velled on with a fine moon-lighr, and having got over the mountains we came into a great fandy plain bordered with mountains. In the night we pafled by two other cara- vanferas, the firft of which was perfectly fine, and after a ftage of feven leagues we came to the vil- lage of Riek, where we ftaid till three in the morning. We then rode over fome plowed lands, and at break of day arrived at I/pahan, Arrival at When T' had refted and refrethed lpahan- myfelf a little at the caravanfera, I went to waitupon Mr. Ka/ffelein the director of the affairs of our Ea/f- India company. He received me in the kindeft manner imaginable, and aflured me I might command all chat was in his power. Hekepe me fome time with him, and gave me one of his fervants to conduct me toMr. Owen, the agent for the Enghfbh Eaft-India company, who received me with the fame kindnefs and complaifance. From thence I went to the caravanfera of Fedde, in the meydoen, or great fquare of the palace. This caravanfera, which belongs to the Queen mo- ther of the King; is the place where all: the Armenians have their ware-houfes and keep their fhops; and as ‘it is the chief of all in the ‘city, and the beft fituated of all, T went there to lodge, by the recom- I mendation 1703. mendation of Mr. Kaffekin, for C O:R.N EB Diets. LEB ROU YN \y~ whom they had a great regard, and The elogy of our Di- rector’s wife. there I continued all the time I ftaid in this city. The King hap- pened to be at that time in the country with his concubines. After I had rode about the town, and in the Armenian diftri& of it called 18i Sulfa, ¥ went to vifit fome Euro- 1703, peans, Ecclefiaftics and others, moft-\~“~“ ly of the French nation, wh ore turned my vifit. The next day Mr. Kajftelein invited me to dine with him, and afterwards carried me out of town. CHAP. XXXVIII. Sea-lizard, and other remarkable things. Tink with moving columns. ‘The King returns to Mpahan. Abundance of peo- ple. Salutation of the New-years-day. Great Perfian Fa/}. A’ the weather was perfectly fine, we went to fee what was moft curious in and about the city, as the Chiaerbaeg or fine alley or walk of I/pahan, and the place of burial for the Armenians and Eu- vopeans, which fhall be defcribed hereafter. We went out of the town in great form, according to the cuftom of the country. Mr. Kaftelein himfelf appeared firft, with twelve runners, and preceded by two interpreters. After him came his fecond, whom I followed, and all the reft two and two, each ac- cording to his rank. We were twelve on horfeback, and twenty fix perfons in all, and yet the Di- rector ufed to be more numeroufly attended in the life-time of his wife, who had been dead five or fix months before we arrived at Ifpaban, and had been magnificently depofit- ed under a fine ftone vault, open on the four fides. Her name was Sa- rab facoba Six, de Chandelier, of a family originally French, and was a Lady of great fenfe and worth. Returning back in the evening swe met with two runners in the Chiaerbaeg with lights, or fort of flambeaus inade of balls of cloth fteeped in oil, and fixed in an iron contrivance, faftened to the end of a ftaff with a round tinned copper plate in form of a fawcer to catch VoL L the droppings of the oil. It was light enough of all confcience, but this is a ceremony in ufe among people of diftin@ion. In this man- ner we rode through the town, and I ftaid to fup with Mr. Kafelein, perfectly well fatisfied with my lit- tle journey. : The next day he fent me a fea- lizzard, dry and whole, of the fize and form of an ordinary lizard. is a creature they take in the Per- fran gulf, and the Perfians, who call it Seck-amkaer, make great account of it. They give it out to be hot in the third degree, and having dried it they levigate it to a powder, and mix it up with pearl, amber, faf- fron and opium. They fay this cor- dial invigorates and reftores a weak- ened conftitution: they make this mixture up into pills which they {wallow, and are hardly ever expof- ed to fale, feeing there is fcarce any but Merchants, and thofe who have bufinefs ac court, who buy them to prefent to fuch as they follicic. They have here alfo a certain fith called Sjir-ma-jie | Shirmafhi | or al Sea-lh- Ie gard. Milk-Fifh, of moft beautiful colours. miz-ff. His belly moftly yellow, his fins red, and the reft of the body of a blueifh green, The flefh of him is firm, white and delicious, and he is reprefented in number 69. Mr. Aaa The TRAVEL Sof 1703. Mr. Kaftelein alfo made me a pre- , Lynu fent of four feet of fmall birds or o- 182 - 4 ; ° ~ : ¥F Prey in is fo narrow that a man of mid- 1703. dling fize muft und¢éfs himfelf tp “Aw ther animals, which had been found at [/paban in alump of ambergreafe, which weighed about thirty three or thirty four pounds, and which the King had purchafed to mele it into a ball, which he inchafed in gold, and inriched with precious {tones, to fend it as a prefent to Mo-. . hamned’s tomb. Hence it might be concluded that ambergreafe is a gum, produced in the fea, which hardens in the air, when it happens to be torn and toft up by the vio- lence of the waves. This precious gum is chiefly found in the eaft, and in feveral parts of the Indies. go up, asI did, and appearéd half above the column; but what is moft extraordinary, when you fhake oné of thefé columns by any motion of the nod, the other feels the famé and ihakes too; this is what I ex- perienced, tho’ I am unable to com- prehend how it fhould be, nor have Lever been able to learn the eaufe of it. While I was bufy about. drawing this building which you have in number 71, a boy of twelve Bolduef of or thirteen years, crooked before,? climbed up on the outfide of the wall; and went quite up to the top of one of the columns, which he ieee They brought me alfo a bird cal- went round and came.down again, ee Paes-jelek not very unlike a duck, without holding by any thing what- except that it had the head, bill and foever but the fmall ftones of the feather of a crow; its feet were building where the mortar was broad at bottom, and divided into dropt out; nor did he do it with three parts ; its body was Jong, and any other defign than to divert us. it tafted very bad. . It is reprefented We ‘returned to the city a little in number 70. : before fun-fet, and it began to freeze Upon the twenty third of this fo hard that the water in my room month, we went, again, inform to became icé, and yet it was hot in the village of Kaladoen, a good the day-time. There even fell a league from the city, there to fee little fnow upon this occafion. pied oF the tomb of Abdulla. They fay _ Upon the twenty eighth, there ar- this faint had formerly the infpec- tion of the waters of Emoen Ojfeyn, and that he was one of the twelve difciples, or, as they pretend, one of the Apoftles of their Prophet. This tomb, which ftands between four walls, faced with {mall ftones, is of a grey marble, adorned with Arabian characters, and furrounded with lamps of tinned copper. You go up to it by fifteen fteps, a foot high, and there are fifteen others a — little higher which go up to a fquare platform of thirty two foot every way, and upon the front of which there are two columns of {mall ftones, fome of which are blue. The bafe of them is five foot in diameter, and they have a {mall door with a winding ftair-cafe which alfo confifts of fifteen fteps. They have fuffered much by the common injuries of time, and it feems as if they had been once higher than they are at prefent. The ftair-cafe with- rived an Arab from Aleppo, with a letter, as he pretended, from the Bafha of Aleppo to the DireCtor of our company : but all he faid was fo confufed, and he looked fo wild with his eyes, that I concluded his brain muft be touched. He had the look of an ecclefiaftic, and perhaps he had left Turky on account of the troubles there; for they had had news at I/pahan, fome days before our arrival, that the Grand-Signior had been depofed, and that Soltan Achmed, his brother, had been raif- ed to the throne in his place. This Arab was very neatly drefled, and yet he had brought but a poor pre- fent, confifting of a pair of yellow boots, two or three common hand- kerchiefs, an handful of dates, and two fticks of wax. Mr. Kajfelein did not care to open his letter, which was fealed but undirected, nor re- ceive his prefents, being quite at a lofs to know the meaning of the | ea tber. ~~ ea ze four of which {topped in the chiaer- baeg, and the reft went on. The King himfelf came half an hour be- fore fun-fet, followed by the princi- pal Lords of his court, and a pro- digious crowd of people. He was at the head of them, and rode up- on a fine chefnut horfe, and went by us near a {mall river, where we had drawn ourfelves up on horfe- back to wait for him. We faluted him in the moft refpe&ful manner, and he fixed his eyesupon us. As the bridge he was to go over was but narrow, moft that attended him ford- ed the river ; for many who had been eager to get upon the bridge fell off; to avoid the danger of which we turned off towards ‘fulfa and came home with the night. It is hard to conceive what a multitude of people attend the King upon fuch occafions ; a man would think it I the water; the fourth fort confifted of one only {mall fifth, which had not grown at all in two years it had been taken notice of ; I kept it with feveral others in {fpirits of wine. They are all admirably well tafted, and efpecially from the /ryzng-pan. Upon the firft day of the year 1704. 1704, we went to pay the ufual ~~, compliments, after the manner of Weinjuat the country, to Mr. Kajffelein, whody. kept us to dine and fup with him to the number of thirty, and enter- tained us fplendidly, not to fay that they ferved up {weet-meats and re- frefhments between the meals. The Englfbh Agent was fome how or o- ther out of order, fo he could not be there, but his fecond came with the chief officer of his houfe, as well as father Antonio Defliro, the Por-Refdent of tuguefe Refident, a man of meric, Portugal. and who had feen the world, and knew f . . 1 aa eae a RMR Eh LB: ap es "peru: Bi ag mee ES LTE IIN i80y | Ih ST DAT ; bee YE ha eT Baa a GI SUS BORN NS RE ae Oaks SONY . me Brats Ay, ast CERES STON POMS aN a Fe and that he was one of the twelve difciples, or, as they pretend, one of the Apoftles of their Prophet. This tomb, which ftands between four walls, faced with {mall ftones, is of a grey marble, adorned with Arabian characters, and furrounded with lamps of tinned copper. You go up to it by fifteen fteps, a foot high, and there are fifteen others a little higher which go up to a fquare platform of thirty two foot every way, and upon the front of which there are two columns of {mall ftones, fome of which are blue. The bafe of them is five foot in diameter, and they have a {mall door with a winding ftair-cafe which alfo confifts of fifteen fteps. ‘They have fuffered much by the common injuries of time, and it feems as if they had been once higher than they are at prefent. The ftair-cafe with- jeyn, Py Seog ta Pe 6 eS ete Heal gape ea a ae a 4 Fh ‘fs SF te Agia” ei x - 2 MS ens FA . 7 >) * Bafha of Aleppo to the Director of our company : but all he faid was fo confufed, and he looked fo wild with his eyes, that I concluded his brain muft be touched. He had the look of an ecclefiaftic, and perhaps he had left Turky on account of the troubles there; for they had had news at I/paban, fome days before our arrival, that the Grand-Signior had been depofed, and that Soltan Achmed, his brother, had been raif- ed to the throne in his place. This Arab was very neatly dreffed, and yet he had brought but a poor pre- fent, confifting of a pair of yellow boots, two or three common hand- kerchiefs, an handful of dates, and two fticks of wax. Mr. Ka/felen did not care to open his letter, which was fealed but undirected, nor re- ceive his prefents, being quite at a lofs to know the meaning of the : "i mnatter. ti Sil eeltehwbes ao Bienen cerry At Met wean : es eins a ay ies aga See =, as etter, as he pretended, “trom tne CORNELIUS LE BRUYN. 1703. matter. Upon the thirtieth, we went “V™ out of town again, and I looked out for a proper place from whence to draw a view of the city, at the time of the year it then was; for in fum- mer it 1s impoflible to do it, becaufe of the numbers of trees that hide it. We went up an eminence to look at a building againft a rock, which we fhall refume hereafter, in our defcription of this city. I there found canals and fprings frozen notwithftanding they were running waters. : Mean time the King’s fervants and baggage arrived, and fo filled the chiaer-baeg with duft that they were obliged to water it. Mr. Ka- fielein being informed of this, fent me with all his family to the place I had pitched on for drawing a view of the city, to fee the King who was to pafs by there. We went thither dreffed in the neateft man- ner we could, and our horfes were well caparifoned, in which the Perfians are excellent. We waited a full hour at the Chriftian burial- ground, and prefently faw a great number of horfemen appear, and his Majetty’s equipages or baggage car- ried by mules. ‘They had fent out fix elephants to meet this Prince, four of which ftopped in the chzaer- baeg, and the reft went on. The King himfelf came half an hour be- fore fun-fet, followed by the princi- pal Lords of his court, and a pro- digious crowd of people. He was at the head of them, and rode up- on a fine chefnut horfe, and went by us near a fmall river, where we had drawn ourfelves up on horfe- back to wait for him. We faluted him in the moft refpe&tful manner, and he fixed his eyesupon us. As the bridge he was to go over was but narrow, moft that attended him ford- ed the river ; for many who had been eager to get upon the bridge fell off; to avoid the danger of which we turned off towards Sulfa and came home with the night. It is hard to conceive what a multitude of people attend the King upon fuch occafions ; a man would think it I 183 was anarmy. The number of his 1703. camels is not lefs furprizing, nor in- deed had I ever feen fo many toge- ther in all my life. Befides all this there was a monftrous crowd of . f{pectators both on foot and on horfe- . back in the chiaer-baeg: the King went thro’ one of his gardens to go to his palace, preceded by two leo- pards which he ufes in hunting, and fome falcons. His women came to town the fame night. | Upon the fourteenth of December, we celebrated the feftival of Chri/- mas with Mr, Kaftelein, and the next day went to vifit the monks of the three convents without the city. At the company’s houfe, two days afterwards, we faw a white crow, which had been feen there feveral times before, but they could never | fhoot it, and was at laft taken in his . “4 Majefty’s nets. At the fame time " they cleaned a {mall pond, in which they found four forts of fifh un- known in our parts, namely the ghaermaji, or afs-fifh, marked as oe | he had been covered with a net; ? - the fyir-ma-ji or milk-fifh, with : {mall {potted fcales; the faraep, a R fith green upon the back and white under the belly, and which com- monly {wims upon the furface of the water; the fourth fort confifted of one only fmall fith, which had not grown at all in two years it had been taken notice of ; I kept it with feveral others in fpirits of wine. They are all admirably well tafted, and efpecially from the frying-pan. Upon the firft day of the year 1704. 1704, we went to pay the ufual ~~L compliments, after the manner of y,,,.1,,7, the country, to Mr. Ka/ftelezn, whoa. kept us to dine and fup with him to the number of thirty, and enter- tained us fplendidly, not to fay that they ferved up {weet-meats and re- frefhments between the meals. The Enghfb Agent was fome how or o- ther out of order, fo he could not be there, but his fecond came with the chief. officer of his houfe, as well as father Antonio Defliro, the Por-Refdent tuguefe Refident, a man of merit, Portugal. and who had feen the world, and knew 184 1704. VYy™ ee An extra- é, ordinary taper. Thee TRAVELS the time I ftaid in this city, befides 1704. that he conftantly entertained me at ~V~ knew very well how to live in it: there were alfo feveral Armenian merchants. ‘This entertainment, however, was not fo grand as it had ufually been, becaufe of the death of the miftrefs of the houfe; and there was but one difcharge of four field-pieces in the morning, to give notice there was to be a feaft, inftead of feveral which are com- monly fired upon thefe occafions: this fignal brought a number of people from ulfa. As I had my eye up- on the watch, I took notice of a lighted taper, five or fix foot long, and thick in proportion, different from all I had ever feen before, and adorned from top to bottom in a Entertain- ment given by the En- glifh 4- gent. very particular manner ; it ftood upon a great difh to fave the car- pet from the wax that dropped from it, and gave an amazing light. It rained very hard that night and next day, fo that the ways became impaflable, which is extraordina- ry enough at that feafon; but upon the fixth, which was twelfth- day, we had fair weather again. We were fome days afterwards entertain- ed by the Exgl/b Agent, in the man- ner we had been by our own upon the firft day of the year, with this ~ addition that the cannon went off Excellent Wine, atevery health: there was alfo mu- fic after the manner of the coun- try. About the evening there came a Georgian dancer, who wanted to fhew his agility, but he did no great feats. They brought a man {waddled up in a white cloth, fo that you could only fee his arms done up in imitation of two chil- dren, the one reprefenting a boy, the other a girl. He was ftretched out like a dead man, and yet he made feveral comical motions to the found of inftruments ; he had his hands done up in the heads of the two pretended children, who firft carefled each other, and after- wards concluded with blows. Mr. Kafteleen, to whom I am in- finitely obliged, fent me, after this, fourteen large bottles of an excel- lent white wine, which he took care to furnifh me with during all of dinner and fupper ; but when I rofe from table I never failed to retire into my apartment, and there apply my felf to the things 1 had had in view when I fet out upon fo long and dangerous a journey. The wine I {peak of is the beft in all Perfia, for they take no care to fine the wines at I/pahan; all you drink there is foul and unpleafant to the palate: they fine none but the wines of Zyceraes[Shirds| which are the beft of all, and which we fhall mention in the fequel. Moft ef the Europeans that have lived here fome time fall into the tafte of the Perfians, and care but little whether the wine be fine or foul fo it be but ftrong. The wine he gave me was as clear as chryftal, nearly of the tafte of Rbeni/h, nor yielding to any French wine I ever drank in my life: there is alfo a red fort very much like Florence. They fine down thefe wines in large earthen pots or jars, inftead of cafks, as in the ifle of Cyprus, and after they have been well fer- mented, they put them into great glafs bottles, which hold fixteen of the common fize. To make thefe wines, they pick out the ve- ry beft of the grapes, and are careful in throwing afide all fuch as are rot- ten or bruifed; and hence it is that the flavour of it furpaffes that of all others: they ufe alfo fulphur and cardamums, to preferve them, and give them a good fcent. For the reft they never drink them before they are a year old, nor are they amifs for ufe at the end of two. During the time I ftaid in this city, we, by letters, dated the esghth of November, from Aleppo, receiv- ed news from our country, by run- ners employed for that purpofe, by the companies of Holland and Eng- land. ‘They in like manner go to Gomron and other places. That day was the firft of the Beyram or great faft of the Perfi-Fap of the ans, which lafts twenty nine or thir-Perfians. of the ty days, that is, till the return Se au A EL CORNELIUS MjEVB RU YN 185 1704. the new moon, as it is obferved a- from the top of the mofchs, begin 3704. Uy™~ mong the Turks. During thisfpace to call the people together: they “VY of time they are forbidden to eat or to drink in the day-time, or even to {moke, which is their moft favourite amufement : but then they turn the night into day; as foon as the fun 1s down they begin to pray, and {moke about half an hour afterwards ; they then eat and drink as much as they pleafe till day-light. But all this is done in form and with regard to certain circumftances, for after they have fmoked, they eat nothing but fruits, fweet-meats and the like, and have no regular meal till after mid-night. Nor are they allowed to blow the trumpet or found any of their other inftruments at mid-night, as ufual; they muft wait till four or five in the morning ; and indeed then they make the greater noife with them, to roufe up the artifans, and admonifh them it is time to rife to their work, This fign isalfo of ufe to thofe without, giving them to un- derftand they may bring in their goods, their fruits, herbs and the like, which, at other times, is done at mid-night. Thefe trumpets are alfo heard half an hour before the fun goes down to give notice to the King’s guards to repair to their fe- veral pofts. The fhops muft alfo be fhut up between eight and nine at night, and every one muft with- draw to his home ; and two hours before it is day the mollas, church- men whofe bufinefs it is to give no- tice of the ftated times of prayer, begin again at noon, and after the fun is down. The Perfians alfo begin to reckon their hours from the rifing and fetting of the fun ; without minding how far the day or the night is {pent, or whether the day be longer or fhorter than the night, they go all by guefs. The following days, the river was full of ice; but neverthelefs a fer- vant of Mr. Kaj/felein's caught out of town a fifth of extraordinary fize in this country; it was a kind of carp, three quarters of an ell in length, and admirably well tafted. This fifh they call Shirmajfbt, as hath already been faid. Upon the fixteenth, after I had Fefival the water. written to my friends in Hol/and, by the way of Aleppo, 1 went with Mr. Kaftelein's family to ‘Sulfa, to fee the feftival of the confecration of water, which the Armenians were to celebrate the next morning be- fore break of day. This feftival is called Goercortnig, or the Bapti/m of the Crofi, and is celebrated as with the Rufians upon the fixth of Ja- nuary. In the evening we got into “fulfa, and went to lodge with Mr. Sabid, our interpreter, who enter- tained us with a good fupper. A- bout ¢hree in the morning, which is the hour when they open this cere- mony, we went to the church of Anna-baet, which is the epifcopal church of the Armenians. SLL, 3%, SYLSUSLLSUSL MSM SUS MSL SS WNAWASZ ~%Z WZ SY SLSILSUS, MON AYANANWINA SZ NLSYSEN FS TSS AS TRIS ISLS RUSS ISL ISS ASSISTS SEY OS. 8 NR SISUSISTISISUSTSISIS CHAP. XXXIX. Baptifm of the Crofs. Antipathy between mules and bears. | -Feftival of Gaddernabie. Feffival of the Solar year. Mag- nificent feafts. Shoots of rhubarb. Feftival of the facrifice of Abraham. : tae. HEY opened this folemnity day: at that time the Priefts, who Baprifm of with a leffon, with hymns and appeared in black, all but the Bifhop % «rs/- with mafles, quite to the break of who officiated, put on their rich veftments Vou. IL Bbb TRA VE ES roy refide in the epifcopal monaftery of 1704, the church of Annabaet, together “VY, 286 The 1704. veftments of gold brocade ; and wy the Bifhop covered himfelf with his mitre, adorned with pearls and precious ftones. In his right hand he held a crofs of middling fize, and embellifhed with jewels, but covered with a white embroidered handkerchief; and another in his left hand not fo magnificent as the for- mer. The number of ecclefiaftics together upon this occafion were twenty four or twenty five, who came out of the church with all their ornaments to go to a covered place over-againft the church, fome- | what lofty and very much adorned, and above which there are two bells. They here had a great copper cif- tern full of water, by which they read and fing for above an hour ; after which the Bifhop dipped the crofs three times into the water of the ciftern, and then they gave him a large cup of oil, which he threw into the water, and fo put an end to the ceremony. The Priefts that affifted, haftily ran their hands into the water, and wafhed their faces with it, as did all the Armenians that could get at it; and fome of them filled {mall canes with this holy water. ‘This folemnity was ob- ferved in feveral other churches, and even in a fmall river which runs by ‘fulfa. But this you muft take a- long with you, they cannot practife this religious cuftom without leave from the King, which the Kalan- taer, or Burgomafter of the Arme- nians never fails to afk fome days beforehand. Upon which this Prince fends to demand the tribute of two hundred ducats, which they pay him yearly upon this account, and fends them a guard to prevent dif- orders; a precaution abfolutely. ne- ceflary becaufe of the crowd of Turks and Perfans who came to fee this ceremony out of curiofity. There was fo great.a throng of them this day, that the Bifhop himfelf could not have got to any thing, if the guards had not cleared the way for him by laying on onall fides unmer- cifully with their ftlaves. The fe- ven Bifhops who were here prefent, with fome Priefts. This monaftery which goes round the church, con- fifts of {mall cells, where nothing is to be feen but two or three {mall niches, fit for nothing but to hold books, together with a defk, before which they fit upon the ground. The walls are white and well kept, and the light comes in on one fide by two or three {mall glazed win- dows. The refectory may be called long, and is provided with a pulpit, in which they read fome chapters during the time of dinner: the chapel is painted from top to bors tom, with reprefentations of facred {tories, but without any art. It is not lawful for their Bifhops to mar- ry, but their Priefts may. They have two Patriarchs, one of which refides here, and the other at Eetfn- afin, ot the Three Churches, near mount Araraf, and at the diftance of three leagues from Erzvan, Upon this occafion we happened ath to fee a ftrange combat, between; two mules and a black hog, which mad. they had certainly torn to pieces if help had not come in. Mr. Kaffe- Jein informed us of the reafon of this antipathy between thefe crea- tures and the black hog, faying it pro- ceeded from a natural averfion the have to bears, which the black hog nearly enough refembles. He told us that one day letting loofe one of his mules upon a large bear, the former tore the latter into pieces. Whence it is that the guides of the caravans when they underftand there are bears about them, which frequently de- ftroy horfes, fet the mules at their heels, who never give them quar- ter. It happened even at that fame time that a bear-ward, fhewing away with one of thofe creatures near the chiaer-baeg, a Perfian came riding by upon a mule; the mule no fooner fcented the bear than he fell furioufly upon him, and obliged his rider to cry out for help, tho’ not a foul dared to go near him. The mule. ftill purfued the bear, and threw his rider, who was a long tyme GOR NE £ TU § 1704. time fick of the fall, but the bear w-V™ got through a hole where the mule could not follow him. This feemed the more {urprizing to us, as we had never once heard of this antipathy ; nor do I remember to have any where read that the Romans made ufe of thefe creatures in their pub- lic fhews; whence I conclude the mules of this country muft be in this refpect different from the mules any where elfe. : Anniver. . Upon the twenty ninth, all the fr oF “ethops of I/pahan were fhut clofe eath of the . 3 Prophet “UP, ON account of the anniverfary Al. of the death of their great’ prophet 4, The heat was fo very power- ful in the month of February, that feveral plants began to fhoot up. At that time the Engh/b Agent, accompanied by father. Antonio De- ftiro, and feveral others, came to’ pay a vific to our Direétor, who gave them a {plendid entertainment both at dinner and fupper, fo that the night was far fpent when the company broke up. And this was what happened often enough ; - for’ this Agent and Mr, Ka/felein were very intimate friends ; and as. they were always well attended, it was always done in a pompous manner. pert Upon the fixth of February, the jot. Perfians had fight of the new moon, and immediately concluded their faft, and rejoiced all night to the found of all their inftruments. Up- on the feventh, they celebrated the feftival of it according to cuftom, with the fame clamour, and the King entertained the court and the ___ foreign minifters. The next day be- re ing the feftival of Gaddernabie , nabic. Which is celebrated by none but the King himfelf, he, according to cuftom, gave audience to all the counfellors of ftate. Their wives and their daughters repaired alfo to the palace, where the King kept fuch as he liked beft for fome days, an honour they value at a very high rate, There were great rejoicings, and fire-works at the palace. The tenth of this month isa day when they always make prefents to the King: they confift of wax done 2 Prefeats made to the King. Lf Bp RUY 184 up in the form of houfes, gardens, 17 04: and the like. ‘That day there arofe“\7-™ a very high wind at north-weft, 4 form. where it every year prevails, for fome days, at this feafon of the year: they call it Baad-Biedmusk, or Bed-mufwint, from a flower which blows at this time. This flower Remarka: grows upon a kind of willow, from a bud of the fize of a {mall nut; tho’ ic is but little and very odori- ferous. From this fame flower they diftil a very pleafant liquor, fome- Prafans thing like fherbet ard lemonade, “2. when fweetened with fugar, but it “1s morte wholefome and ftronger, They keep it all the year round in bottles, and they alfo dry the flower itfelf, and put it among linen to. {cent it: the country people bring it in abundance to market. As I néver obferved the like with regard to the willows of our country, I have drawn the reprefentation you fee in number 72 ; together with that of the leaves which do not appear till the month of April. The wind which blows thefe flowers common- ly lafts ull the end of the month, during which they have fine weather with confiderable heats. Upon the jirft day of March there fell fome rain, and prefently after it a ftrong wind came on; it was cold; the weather was variable ; and fo it continued to be to the end of the month. Upon Friday, the twentieth of Fefival of this month, they celebrated the fe-’” Sols ftival of the Solar year. Upon this’ occafion the Bazars have a charm- ing effect by candle-light, all the fhops in them are very much ad- orned, and efpecially thofe of the confectioners and fruiterers, which have a pleafing effect upon the eye. The cooks fhops are full of all forts of victuals, which they fend all a- bout the town, a practice in no o- ther country : but they are all foon ftript by the concourfe of ftrangers who come to I/pahan to keep this feftival. : Early in the morning I went to Raas the palace with our mafter of the“: horfe, who was a Perfiaw and ca : well BUR A VL aR hE Ue ull oe ay 188 Tie OT RA 1704. well known, where the King was to &*v~ entertain the principal Lords of his VELS of court, the baflas and governors of 1704. places ; their prefents confift of rich “Ww court. ‘They fat down to table at ten of the clock, and the feaft lafted but half an hour: the victuals were ferved up in gold and filver dithes, in which confifts the great magnifi- cence of the King of Perfa; thefe difhes were all covered, to the num- ber of two hundred, and they ferve up as many again when there hap- pens to be more company. Mott of the Lords, invited upon this occa- fion, wear a fort of turban adorned with pearls and precious ftones ; they call it Tha-e7t/-timaer, and they are fometimes adorned with herons feathers of great beauty. ‘hey take them off when they are out of the hall where the feaft is, and put on thofe they commonly have upon their heads: a fervant carries it be- goods, purfes of gold, horfes, ca- mels, and mules ; which are carri- ed and conducted feparately by ci- tizens who are employed for that purpofe by the King’s exprefs order. Around the great fquare of the pa- Trophies. lace they, at the fame time, carry ten or a dozen veflels full of ftraw, hanging by the end of certain poles, in token of a victory they formerly obtained over the Aesheck Tartars ; thus they give out, and then they lead a certain number of horfes, covered with filk, but without fad- dles, into the court of the palace. However I thought nothing fo ex- traordinary as to fee fuch a number of the grandees crofs the court in their return from the feaft, amidft a vaft croud of {pectators. During Magrif- fore them. During the time of thecourfe of this feftival alfo, which we Yt this feftival, thefe Lords appear with lafts for feveral days, they prefent extraordinary magnificence, and ef- pecially upon this day, when every one is feen in new cloaths. Wot far from the place where the King gave this feaft there were twelve of his led-horfes richly caparifoned ; their houfings and faddles were fet with pearls and precious ftones, and their bridles were of mafly gold. They were tied to filken halters which hung upon the ground, but care was to be taken how you trod upon them. Seven of thefe horfes were white, but had a part of their body, the tail, and the feet ftained of a red or an orange colour. I could not get near to look at them ull I had given fomething to thofe who had the care of them. They had a great carpet fpread by them, upon which fata gentleman who had the immediate care of them; and by him was a great golden hammer wherewith they were fhod, and a trough of the fame metal. But I could not, even for money, get in- to the hall where the feaft was, and was obliged to take up with a place where I faw every thing pafs by. During this feftival there are great prefents made to the King, and par- ticularly by the Grandees of the each other with eggs: The Maer- Eggs pre Jeeldaer is even obliged to wait on/™4 the King with fome adorned with gold and filver neatly painted, a prefent in very high efteem among them. Upon the twenty third, we cele- Eafe. brated the feaft of Eafter at our Di- rector’s, and the next day the Engli/h Agent, with a numerous train, came to congratulate him thereupon. He was received after the ufval manner, and it was late before they parted. We received feveral other vifits the next day, which infenfibly brought us on to the end of the month. Inthe beginning of the month of April, Mr. Kaftelein had a prefent of young afparagus. It was even fold in the market the next day, bur then you had not above fixty or fe- venty for a fcore of florins. This afparagus is always dear at the be- ginning of the feafon, and there are few that buy them, but to make prefents to fuch people of diftinati- on as they follicit. ‘They fent us alfo fome ftalks and fuckers of rhu- Shoots barb, preferved in the gravy of lamb, 7#44"?- They are very refrefhing and laxa- tive, of adelicious tafte, and very much efteemed at this time of year. 4 The © 4 Wy, 0 4% VAG G 4 2 | la 4 vs) 5 4 : - | ’ 4 & Ps ‘ M\ ; , Batt . z ee pr tee Meee tga ren Cie ine MOP ia hae a * by SR at el hy (eg 9 x pl AC en i Wn pst 1. ther ene imeem | cag ain prays 0 Ncanee 8 et y = Hite A aazs Pio tapi aire te at = es ‘ LU . r TI BRN KN PRE GUY AG TT” ST RNR As SECURE NUN MRM Sr Sy alte NE | 2 ARS EEN AE RAE AOE, At ae OR wate nny #5 he. OOF ree aon Ree at iy : ; ; C on tama 5 ie, aa EHP! ta faheedasied of ratte akif eens MB Didi rene 4 Oey eae eS ay ee ned fone *¢ Pe se 2 Paes Se eh ee = LS eta ‘ ” weer Were wer oe Ce pe eeiae. 2 wut a eee wae ee ee eee te ee eee eae Pee Cry ea nigh eo hui Rae, CORNED NWS BEL aR UY 1704, The leaves of them are curled, LU vn green, yellow, and reddith, with a 189 preceding plant. The letter A di- 1704. ftinguifhes the leaves of rhubarb ; ~~~ white ftalk, inclining to the yellow : fome of them are alfo of a fine red, and two or three inches in circum- ference : thefe ftalks are for the moft part a foot and a foot and half long, and they eat only the tender part of the beft: when they begin to fhoot up, they cover them with earth, like afparagus, and that makes them grow big. They are cultivat- ed for the King’s table, in the neigh- bourhood of the town of Laer, whofe governor is obliged annually to make him a prefent of fome. The leaf of this is two or three fathom in circumference, and the root as well as itfelf, is like that of the common rhubarb, but it has no ftrength like what grows in the country of Usbek, between China and Mujcovy. The Perfians eat the tender parts of thefe young ftalks raw with falt and pep- per, as the Italians eat the fuckers of artichokes ; the tafte of them is hot and biting, and very pleafant: of the fame they alfo make a fyrup which is very refrefhing, I had the curiofity to draw this plant with its leaves androot, and I have met with leaves of a foot and an half long, and even fome larger. The root of this had four flips, grey and mot- tled: they fent it me from Yu/fa, where it had been nineteen years in the ground. On one fide of this plant 1 have alfo drawn a certain fruic when the feafon is farther ad- vanced, which the Perfians call Ba- densjoen, and the Europeans, Foekje- JSockiefe. It is of a purple and fome- times white, commonly of the fize of a cucumber, but fometimes as big again. It is excellent in broth, fryed in butter, and feveral other ways. They tranfplane the fhrub that bears it, when very young, and the fruit is the better for it: the bloffom of it is white, purple and yellow, and it ufually fhoots a foot and an half out of the ground, with feveral {mall branches, the weight of whofe fruit bend them down to. the earth: you have one of thefe in number 73, together with si Vou. [ | B the root; and C the Fuekje- Sockiefe. Upon the /eventh of this month, at Fulfa, there fell an heavy rain, with hail which covered all the country, tho’ at the fame time they hardly felt any thing of the kind in the city ; an accident which had not happened for many years be- fore. All the reft of the month we had wind, rain, and very un- certain weather, Upon the jiftcenth, they celebrat- ed the feftival of Bairam-korbat or Feaf of the Sacrifice of Abraham. ftelein, who knew my curiofity, or- dered his mafter of the horfe and two others of his fervants to wait on me on horfeback to the place defigned for this purpofe. The King’s mufic had been heard the evening before, as the fun went down, and continued till the fame hour of the next day, the mufici- ans, who are in great number, re- lieving each other by turns, At feven in the morning I went to the Chiaer-baeg, where the King was to pafs as he crofled the gardens, and he appeared in half an hour’s time at the head of atrain of Lords, a- bove two hundred of them with the rich turbans we formerly mention- ed. I had placed my felf in the middle of the way, where this Prince was to pafs, and having feen him, and his train, I galloped away to Babaroek. a Perfian burial ground, the place where the ceremony was to be performed, a good half league out of the city. It confifts of no more than the bare facrifice of a male camel, without any defect ; if any it had it would be accounted impure. The Darocga or Bailif of the city, and fometimes the King himfelf, gives him the firft blow with a great launce, after which they difpatch him with fabres and knives, After this they cut him up into pieces, and divide him among the -officers of the feveral diftricts of the city; and as every one is eager to have his fhare, diforders arife, and Cec fome- Mr. Ka- tf Sacti- Ka fice of A- braham. eT gg ee ee Oe ee ll ak dale fie TRAVELS 1704. fometimes many remain dead on the wv fpot, as it happened that day ; for of it, and keep it all the year round. 1704. For the reft, it is very certain, that ~V~ 190 every one goes armed either with fabres or clubs, and there i& fuch a throng of horfemen it is impoffi- ble to move. For my part, I got away one of the firft, and returned to the Chiaer-baeg to fee this mul- titude go back again to the city. At length when every one had got what fhare he could of the facri- fice, they returned in triumph, the officers at the head of thofe in their diftri@, jumping and dancing {word in hand, and with their clubs aloft, bawling out, and ftriking upon ba- fons and fmall drums. The firft piece that is cut off from this ca- mel is for the King, and they car- ry it to the palace upon the point of a fpear. For the reft, the re- turn was very orderly, and with great tokens of joy. Firft there ap- peared the King’s guards, and then the Prince himfelf on horfeback, under a great parafol, to fhelter him they every day in this city confume ten or twelve thoufand fheep and goats, and that every body is oblig- ed to eat mutton upon this day. I met fuch prodigious flocks of them fome days before that I had much - ado to get clear of them. They here alfo eat an inconceivable num- ber of lambs, from twenty to twen- ty five or thirty days old. This be- gins in the month of November, and lafts till the months of ri/ and May, and particularly among people of rank. ‘The price of thefe lambs is commonly feven, eight, or nine moroedjes, feven of which go to a crown of our money; and they weigh from fix to twelve pounds. They are one of the greateft dain- ties of Perfia, and efpecially among the better fort, who never eat beef, but leave it to the meaner and poor people, as well as the buffaloe which is alfo publickly fold. from the fun-beams, and followed by the Lords of the court, and they by twelve of his Majefty’s led-horfes Some days after this feftival the Ze King King went into the country with4% 7” ° » ° ° t0@ coun- his miftrefles, and diverted himfelf;,. wit Abundance and four elephants. ‘There were in all above one hundred thoufand per- fons on foot and on horfeback, be- fides thofe that were on the tops of houfes. Iwas the only European that appeared drefled after our mode. As foon as the King drew near they cleared the way for him by laying « it thick on with the cudgel, fo that many fell into the water with their horfes ; others were quite over- powered with blows, and I went home very much fatigued: and yet all was.over before eleven in the morning, notwithftanding they had crofled the town in form and order in their return. For ten days be- fore this facrifice they had led this camel up and down the town co- vered with thorns or the like, and preceded by a launce, an ax, and many inftruments, That day they kill and eat above fifty thoufand fheep at [/paban, and thofe who have the very good for- tune to get a piece of the camel, are fure to drefs it with their mut- ton; tho’ others make a relick of with feeing fome elephants fwim 4 #/- crofs a river which had been f{woln in an extraordinary manner by the rains that had lately fallen. Upon the twenty third they held ¥ : the feftival of A:dikadier, a day up- on which the Perfians will have it that Mobammed declared to the peo- ple, That Az was to be his fucceflor, and injoined them to acknowledge him as fuch. They fay this was tranfacted in Arabia the Happy, near the village of Shomkadier, whence they derive the name of this fefti- val, which is obferved by the Per- fians only, the other Mobammedans not bearing the mention of it. At this time the trees began to fhoot, and the month concluded with heavy rains, which damaged fome houies and wafhed away o- thers, which is not at all to be wondered at; for the mafons work of this country is like a fpunge, and’ the houfes are flat at top, fo that ic is impoflible to keep them dry when it rains. ° With 1704. a ee eee re eee ee ye ee eee ee ee ee ee a ee ee eee ee OO ee fel eh Re Be hee ‘ e AY SF CORNELLUS bE BRUYN With May the weather began to \v™ recover itfelf; and I went into the An old pleafure- houfe. - about it is very pleafant. garden there are four great fena- the city from with- out. country with Mr. Kaffelein defigning - to follow the courfe of the river, but it had fo drowned its banks be- caufe of the rains which had fallen fome time before, that we were ob- liged to ftrike crofs the country; by a road which in two hour’s ume: carried us to a pleafure-houfe called Goef-jeron, to the eaftward of the city, upon the river of Zenderoe. It has a large garden full of fena and fruit-trees; and here feveral that have been fent by the Ea/-India company have {topped upon their arrival at, and departure from J/- paban. This houfe has feveral a- partments, fome of which begin to run to ruin, and the neighbourhood In this SEROUS LOS trees; at a {mall diftance from each 1704. other, which cover a pavilion whichSwn you go up to by fome fteps. Thefe trees are fhort, with a thick trunk, and two of them are fixteen foot in circumference. be very antient, and tell you that Tamerlane once repofed himfelf un- der the fhade of their branches? We thought here to have met with fome game, but it fuddenly coming on to rain we were glad to go back to Fulfa where we ftaid ull ic was night. The following day the weather was very incon- ftant, and I was taken with an _ in- termitting fever ; I had only fome few fits of it, but they weakned me to that degree, that I was fenfible of the ill effects of them quis to the end of the month, CHA P. XL, Defcription of Mpahan, and of what is moft ieonivkdble in that city, and the neighbourhood about it. | Profped of W Spahan is a city of very great ex- | tent, and efpecially if you take in the fuburbs ; ; and yet it does not make any great figure from with- out, whether with regard to mofchs, towers, oF large buildings, becaufe it is generally fhaded by trees in the fummer. For this reafon I ftaid ull it was winter to draw a view of it, and even then I could do it but im- perfectly becaufe of the number of palm-trees, pines, fena’s and cyprefles which are ever green, and fo high and fo thick of leaves as to charm the eye.. All the buildings of this city are grey, with platforms or ter- raffles at top. There is no diftin- guifhing the wall which divides the city from the fuburbs, becaufe the houfes are fo clofe together there is no perceiving any divifion. All this makes it a difficult tafk to draw a view of this city, and the rather as to) 3 it ftands upon a level or plain, fo that I was obliged to pitch upon an eminence a league from the town, from whence I faw Fulfa, which is on the other fide of the town, the city and all its dependences, be- fides the villages and gardens that furround it, and which take up a They hold them to - 191 LOE AT LTT very great extent of country, the. whole encompafied with mountains. That which is the neareft of all is a league and an half to the fouth- ward, and called Koe-/offa. Upon Mountaiz the fide of this mountain you fee a¥ Kee- houfe built by King Su/man, the” father of the prefent King, and 4 Soffa. royal pleafure- therein are many fine apartments, howe. whence you have a'profpect of the city and country about it, a planta- tion of, all forts of trees, and a fall of water which comes down from the mountains, This building is called Tagte Sullemoen, or the throne of SSESSON SS SS = ~ ~ * MY Gates of I{pahan. of Suliman, and they were repairing it when I was in thefe parts. You have a reprefentation of it above, fuch as it appears from the foot of the hill. The other mountains are much farther diftant from the city, which ftands in a plain of about twenty five leagues from eaft to weft. One would even fay it was boundlefs to the eaftward in parti- cular, as well as the road to Shiras, upon which you meet with many fine villages, and pleafant gardens ; I travelled fix leagues to the eaft- ward and could perceive no bounds. It is alfo full fix leagues broad. This city has ten gates, which are all open and without any guard. In order to go round it, I went to the gate of Haffan-abaet, {o called from a certain perfon of great fame, who was one of the firft who began to build on that fides. from thence if Hy HY you go to that of Derwas-cykaroen, or the Gate of the Deaf, this part having been formerly inhabited by deaf people. You leave it on the left hand to go through the bazars, which are a quarter of a league from the former. The gate of Sey- dach-moedjoen is at a like diftance, and on the eaft-fide of the town, where there is a double wall, the outermoft of which is very low, and beyond which there is nothing but tombs and no houfes. From this you go on to the gate Shoe- barn, to the weftward, from whence, at the fame diftance, you fee that of Togt-/hie. ‘The canal which goes round a partof the city to the weft- ward, quite to the gate of Karoen, which we have mentioned, rifes or has its {pring from this place. A quarter of a league from thence you have the gate ot Darideff, andatan 3 equal CORNELIUS LE BRU YS 193 1704. equal diftance from Darwafjnow, or lowing are of the divifion of the 1704. “r—~ the New-gate. Then the gate of Heyderries ; the firftof them is cal-~V™ Wards 0 the city. Darwarfy Lamboen, and then that of Doulet, or Profperity, which is that of the Chraer-baeg. The tenth is that of Had/bie near the gate of the kitchen of the royal: palace. When [had got round again to the gate of Hajfan-abaet, whence I fet out, I looked at my watch, and found I had been two hours and an half in going from gate to gate. They are all built of earth and with- out any works for defence, and the folds of the gates themfelves are very clumfey and fecured by iron plates. This city is divided within the walls into. twenty two principal parts or wards, feventeen of which bear the name of Mamerb-olla-fie or of Namet-bolladers, and the five o- . thers that. of Hlesderrie: they are like the. Nzcolotz and the Caftellani at Venice. 'Thefe feventeen parts or wards of the firft divifion have each of them a particular name; the firft is called Bagaet, or the Ward of Gardens; becaufe in the reign of Abbas the firft it contained nothing but gardens : the fecond Kerron, or the Ward of the Deaf: ,thethird Daeb- bettin, or of the Fruit-houfe of Me- fons: the fourth Sey-2d Agmed-joen, fo called from one of their Doors: the fifth Letver, the etymology of which is unknown: the fixth Ba/ser- Agaes, or the Duck-market: the f{e- venth Shaer-foi Kotha, or the Crofs-. way of Kotba: the eighth Seltoen- Jenfoterie, from a Prince of that name: the ninth Namo-afig, or the tbree incompatibles: the tenth Shoe- bare, the derivation of which I can- not tell: the eleventh Derre-Babba- Kafim, or the Diftriét of the Father Kafim : the twelfth Goude Maz/oet- beek : the thirteenth Golbaer, or rich in flowers: the fourteenth Meydoen- mier, or the DiftriG or ward of the Square of Mier, from one of their Doétors : the fifteenth Niema-wort ; the meaning of whichI know not: the fixteenth Derre-koek, or Place of Pleafure. Tam ignorant of the name of the feventeenth. The four fol- yOL, 1, : led Maleynouw, or the New Part s the Derredef, or the Forfaken: the third Hoefcyn-ja, or the Diftri of the Churchmen: and the fourth Logt.fhie, or of the Keeper of the Poultry. The chief parts of the fame ge- neral divifions without the walls are to the number of four ; the firft is. called Abbas Abaet, founded by 4- bas the Great. This is the moft confiderable of the out-parts, and here live none but people of dif tinction ; nor indeed is there any difference made between this and thofe within the walls: it is to the weftward : the fecond is Szems-Abaer, fo called from its founder: the third Bied-Abact, and the fourth ' Thie-roen. ‘There are two befides thefe which belong to the divifion of Namet-olla-hie, the firft of which is called Sheigh-joefus-fibenna, or the Mafon of old ‘Fofeph, otherwile cal< led the Diftri&t of Sheig-Sebbennaes, and Tehwaeskon. Under thefe parts are comprehended feveral {maller fubdivifions, which are all diftin- Sudivif- guifhed by particular names. Thefe™: two great divifions always oppofe each other in every thing, and this is chiefly remarkable upon days when they have proceffions, upon great feftivals, and in public places: and as they never fubmit to each o- ther upon thefe occafions, they ne- ver fail to commit diforders, and fome of them are often left dead upon the fpot; this we fhall take notice of hereafter. It is faid that the origin of this emulation, or en-= mity rather, is derived from two ancient villages, that formerly joined to each other, and that one of them belonged to the Hezderries, and the other to the Namet-olla-hie, names fince afflumed by the two parties. This city was at firft called Hi/pa- ban, Ifpaban, or Afpaban, and was no more than any ordinary town till the reign of Abbas the Great, and after he had conquered Laer and Ormus, when he forfook Cashin Ddd and “ ey > 7’ ; ; aK: Veet e Pub dat . wee } Sv sak. et ae eyrea Oh aa * SONS A ‘ Ne ig as t oe Ne ee of ay ry b As ms ih BS al “a'-* ee ay 194 i: en wyrw The chief caufe of this change was the advantageous fituation of this city, which is now become the ca- pital of the Kingdom, and feat of Perfia. King’s pa- lace. The? T RA ‘and Sultania to refide at I/paban. the Monarchs of Perfia. It is in the province of Irak, part of the ancient Parthia, and in the latitude of 32 degrees 45 minutes of the northern hemifphere. This country in general goes by the name of Perfia, a great and fa- mous Kingdom of Afa furrounded by the Ca/pian fea, Zagathay, Tar- tary, the empire of the Mogo/, the fea of India, the gulf of Perfa, Arabia the Defart and Turkey. The King’s palace is three quar- ters of a league in circumference, and has fix gates, the chief of which is called Au Kapie, or the Gate of Al;: the fecond Haram Kapefie, or the Gate of the Seraglio; both of them come into the Meydoen or great f{quare, which is to the northward: the third is called Moerbag-Kapefie, or the Gate of the Kitchen, becautfe all the victuals that are ferved up at the King’s table go through that: the fourth Ghandag-Kapefie, thro’ The citta- del. which you go into the gardens of the palace ; tho’ that is what no- body is allowed to do but the King himfelf, and the Kapaters or eunuchs that have the guard of his women ; this gate leads into the Chiaer-baeg : the fifth Ghajat-ganna Kapefie, or the Gate of Taylors, becaufe thofe in his Majefty’s fervice have their abode there : the fixth Ghanna Kapefie, or the Secretary's Gate: thefe two laft come into the town to the horth- ward. . Moft of the Grandees of the kingdom go into the palace through thofe gates when the King gives’ them audience, and particu- larly through the two firft. The .cittadel , which they call Tabaroek, is about half a league in circumference, and extends in length, eaftward, quite into the city, and to the fouthward meets the wall of the fame. . It has a lofty mud wall, flanked’ with ugly towers, upon which there are fome pieces of can- VELS of non mounted ; but they dare not 1704. difcharge them, for fear of throw-“~Y™' ing down the wall, which is in fo wretched a condition that you may fee through it in feveral places. They do not fuffer ftrangers to go into it, but I am perfuaded the rea- fon is becaufe it is in a more ruin- ous condition within than it is with- out; there is however a good deal of room and convenience within it. As for what remains to be faid of the reft of the city, we fhall de-~ clare ourfelves concerning it when we have gone through the defcription of it, tothe end that what we have to add may be the better underftood. Now here follows the defcription of it, fuch asit is reprefented in num- ber 74, and as it appears from the fouthward. The figure [1 | diftin- guifhes a mountain; [2] the new royal garden, which I faw begun; it is of great extent; [3] the river of Zenderoe; [4] the houfe of one of the chief Armenian merchants of ‘Fulfa ; [5|the Dominicans church of the fame place; [6] the church of St. ‘Fobn belonging to the Arme- nians ; [7] the epifcopal church of the fame, with a {mall tower; [8] the market church ; [g] the church of St. Mary, all this in ‘fulfa; [10] the bridge of Allawerdi-Khan; [11] Muzyt or the royal mofch; [12] that of Torfolla, one of their Doc- tors ; [13 | Menare-Kambrinfie, which is a lofty ftone tower; [14] Kella Menaer, or the pillar of beafts heads; [15] Zabarcek or the cittadel; [16] Hazaarfherip or the great royal garden; [17 and 18] the chief tombs belonging to the Perfans, and their burial place called Badba- rock; [19] the Chriftzan place of burial ; [20] the royal river ; [21] the mountains of Chorce, in part co- vered with fnhow; [22] that of Za- liffia, a village of that name. The Meydoen, which is one of the Ye great #7 chief ornaments of this city, is a/%#* great {quare or market-place which is even hundred and ten paces long, from eaft to weft ; and two hundred and ten broad from north to fouth. © ie RR 5 Wheel \\ \ ISLE: = LLL LSD Geer o roo Lz Z <= = SSS SS SSS = ee =e =a — SSNS S Ss} ETI Teg) SUA AN Ww NN \\ AY WS TAN AN SO SSSSssc SS if Feat) fa a pe LS orunast oe ——— i Nieir ni TNA iN — LESS N \ \N y i \ i} \\ N \Y NN \ \\ \ i UNA ANN AN it ty) ‘\ DU} a mT i oT LTR TATA TTT AGA iye Lenni ET HA =e TMNT ll HA on Sos tS Pe Soess este SOOT S Sa Sy ~~ ~~. ~, Ses CUI UD a y yyy ia WHEEEEE. 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Upon this gate you fee a reprefen- tation of the battle between King Abbas and the Usbeck-Tartars; it is in painting, by an artift of the coun- try. Above it there is a ftriking clock, the only one in all Perfa, and on the fame fide you have the pavilion of the machines or of the clock, which moves fome wooden puppets in a wheel, not worthy to be feen by an European. A little fur- ther to the eaftward you come to the mofch of Shig-lotf olla, fo called from one of their doctors, whom they reckon in the number of their faints. It is one of the chief in all the city, and is adorned with a fine. dome, covered on the out-fide with green and blue ftones incruftated with gold, and with a pyramid, up- on which there are three balls of the fame metal. The front door comes into the great fquare, and you afcend to it by feveral fteps; it is round, and forty paces in diame- ter, as I was affured by one I had defired to meafureit; for it is un- lawful for Chriftians to go into it. The royal mofch called Shah-mazyt, is on the weft-fide of this f{quare, and is the moft confiderable in all Ifpaban. Yt hasadome like the for- mer, and two doors in front, on each fide of which there is a pillar ; they are more lofty than the mofch itfelf, the whole of green and blue, with an incruftation of gold, very charming tothe fight. About it you fee feveral Perfian charaGters in white, and the dome has two columns. This mofch is round like the for- mer, and is eighty-five paces in di- ameter. There is a fine fountain or bafon in the court oppofite to the entrance, and to fay the truth of the matter, thefe two mofchs are the greateft ornaments of the I IOs. 4 meydoen or great fquare. The gate 1704. of Ali-kapie is but two hundred and“~VY . fixty fix paces from this laft mofch, and the whole fquare is furrounded with lofty buildings, and with por- ticoes full of fhops and artificers. Thofe in the fervice of his Majefty are on the fide of the court; and befides all this, the greateft part of this fquare is full of tents, where they expofe all forts of things to fale; but they pack up their goods at night and leave a watch behind, which go the rounds in the night with dogs. Moft of the buildings there are fhaded with elms, and you there continually fee a pro- digious concourfe of people, and among the reft, a great number of perfons of quality going and com- ing from court. You have alfo here numbers of buffoons and mounte- banks, but they fell no medicines, and do no more than divert the people with idle ftories, which they are paid for by their hearers and {pectators. Some of them have apes and monkies, which play a thou- fand tricks to draw the people about them; for there is no nation under the fun fo fond of the bagatelle © as the Perfians, and their coffee- houfes, bazars, and the like, are ac- cordingly full of thefe buffoons. In Tourna- the middle of this fquare or market-”” place there is a large and lofty pil- lar for publick fports, and upon which they commonly fix the prize which ufually confifts of a golden cup or fome fuch thing ; the par- ties that contend for it, ride by it on full fpeed, and turning the body, at once fend away their dart or arrow, and {top at once; but none are al- lowed this but perfons of diftinétion and men of the {word ; and he that wins the prize lays hold on it, and puts it upon his head in token of victory ; the King alfo makes him a prefent, more or lefs, according to the value he has for him; but it is commonly a golden quiver full of arrows. But thefe {ports have been but little in vogue fince the acceflion of the prefent King, whofe inclina- tions carry him another way, and are Tu TRAVELS 1704. are very different from thofe of his predeceflors, under whom this pil- 196 of nineteen pieces of fmall cannon 1704. whofe carriages are much out of ~Y™ lar was erected.. In former days they never failed to have a tourna- ment upon the feftival of Nowroes or of the new folar year, a folem- nity ftriftly obferved by the ancient Kings of Perfia, and, according. to the annals of this country, even in the days of Darius. Upon thefe occafions they always ftruck and moved off the tents that ufually ftand here, and ploughed the ground with oxen twenty days before hand. The King was feated upon a kind of gallery or theatre, called Ta/ael, over the gate of li-kapie, which is very lofty, and of a fine architecture. The races being over, there came on wreftlers and rope-dancers, and then they had fights of bulls and rams. Upon thefe occafions they had alfo jugglers, which the King at this day will no longer admit of, the _direétors of his confcience having “informed him the toleration of them is finful and immoral ; ‘nor do they any longer allow of dancing women and courtezans, who formerly a- bounded on all fides. : You have a reprefentation of the Meydoen or the great market-place in number 75. This firft view was taken from the fide of the houfe for the King’s mufick. The letter repair, and efpecially the wheels. There is a canal by thefe cannon, which were brought from Ormus, in the reign of Abbas, who made himfelf mafter of the place by the affiftance of the Engli/h. You go -into the palace by the gate of Ali-kapie, which is finely built, and ten’ paces broad; it is more in depth, with a lofty vault or arcade, with pretty niches on the fides of the wall. When you. are got thro’ it, you fee lofty ftone walls between which you get to the build- ings and garden; the gate of the Haram is nearly like this; it was built while I was here, and gilt in the front., The firft time I was at court, in the abfence of the King and his women, I went through a -gallery between thefe walls, and thought the entrance of it quite royal, From thence I went to the new Seraglio of the women, which is full of {mall magnificent apart- ments, with walls white without and painted with flowers, At the end of this building on the right- hand, there is a great apartment of the neateft fort, furrounded with rooms, which were then not finifhed, and upon which they were then at work. From thence you go into A diftinguifhes the talael or the theatre, over the gate of /i-kapie : B, the royal mofch: C, that of the hall of Tiel-fetton, or of the yyonig forty pillars, where the King ufually cent duitd- gives audience to foreign minifters ;’”- Shig-lotf-alla: D, the Wagtis-fat-aet, or the pavilion of machines. The tents are there alfo reprefented, and the pillar for races. The fecond view reprefented in number 76, was taken from the eaft near the royal. mofch. The Letter 4, diftinguithes the Talael, Ali-kapie: B, the mofch of Shig-lotf-olla: \C, the pavilion of machines: D, the houfe of mu- fical inftruments: E, the Derre-har- ram, or the gate of the Seraglio, of which you do not feemuch. The pillar is there in the middle of the fquare. “Along the portico of the palace there runs a baluftrade of painted wood, on each fide: this baluftrade contains one hundred and twenty of thefe columns are of wood painted and gilt. This hall is very {pacious, and the walls of it. are blue adorned with flowers and foliages. You here fee alfo fome figures of Europeans, drefled after the Spanifh manner, and otherwife, and eight other pillars in the back part of this building, four of a fide, and four other in an apartment which was fhutup. Before this apartment there is a great court full of fena’s, and over-againft it another {maller, behind which is the Seraglio, and between both a fine bafon or fith- ond lined with great ftones, with which alfo the court itfelf is paved. This bafon is one hundred and I eighty eae sbedinadmsentneks seteieinen Gaieieaicn candi nice aca ieee rani’ lasses a wil ea Manila ON Na fae te ac a ped te . e RRR i eA INTEL AEN N ON \ ou ) { r \ F 0 = - . ne wu nt Ht 3 i \ Foie NAN 4 Dyac ¥ ss G £ ie oes / \ err . > rar ~r, Sie WIN ea WS NTE bite sediprnie taba name seks anid kl aslo a genannten enabenlsemner anon IRR ant ema secon atom i asians ptm Me ce NE oh eee at eR 2 ee te ANEANG:| x 3 se é o> Le = r 2 E MEY= AMY Sn EEL OTE PERRO SE FN ee ysl i MX oN eS Dy x Sr = eS UT T DOEN. oy EBS ECULECEE UIT LEAL . ¥ $, «doe: Boy Mpg pa a ape sas patay ho eehyalny ihe «nde - ant eee yma ea es ware ahly MOIR RF AE: pA ete MRP PME OD AN URI Bp el aha’ j r704.. Wwy™~ CO RiNEIATU.S eighty paces long by twenty four broad. . From thence they carried. me into another court, and then into a great building, where there was an hall of extraordinary dimen- fions, very lofty and very light, with - great curtains which fell from the ceiling down to the floor. I had the curiofity to lift up one of them, and found this hall full of looking- glafies, and adorned with fine co- lumns of wood, painted and gilt; it is the very fineft part of the palace, and here alfo the King gives audience to foreign minifters. There are fine fountains or bafons before it, and a canal to water the trees of the gat- den; this palace is divided into fe- veral parts, and has feveral gardens divided from each other. You have here alfo fine ftone galleries, cover=, ed, and adorned with niches on the fides, and ftone benches three foot high, and feveral other apartments -exclufive of the new feraglio, for which the King pays yearly the The King lowes mu- feck. Their in- franents. fur of three hundred Tomans, every Toman about forty florins of our money; all the fhops about the Mey-doen and Chiaer-baag are obliged to contribute to it; and the clergy have all the revenue of the gardens belonging to it, by a grant from Abbas the firft. The King delights much in .mu- fick, and keeps a great number of hands for that purpofe at the Nacb- rocchone. ‘Their chief inftruments are the Karama, which is fomewhat in the nature of the trumpet ; there are fome of them five inches in cir- cumference at the mouth end, and four foot at the other, and feven foot fix inches long, fo that there is no making ufe of them without a reft; they give a very extraordinary found; they havealfo the Koes, agreat drum, five foot two Inches deep, and nine foot nine inches round ; but it is never ufed except in war, and thofe that beat it ride upon camels; the Hool, which isa drum like ours ; the Nagora, a {mall kettle- drum, and the trumpet or the Nafier. ‘They “have harpfichords alfo; but the chief inftrument in ufe ev Ole vat with them is the Kamon-/be, a kind 1704; of violin. They have alfo the Soorna Www or hautbois; feveral forts of flutes ; the harp or the Morgiie, a kind of a flat copper bafon, upon which they {trike and make a great noife. Be- fides all thefe they have feveral other inftruments we know nothing of in our parts. The chief exercifes of this nation Chiefexer: are riding and darting the diner or go i” cane; fhooting with the bow, and ; fowling; and their ufual paftimes are tobacco and converfation. ‘They are moreover great lovers of chefs, and play at it perfectly well. - Having thus faid all we have to obferve concerning the Mey-doen or great market-place; let us go to the Chiaer-baag, or the fine alley otq.chises walk of I/paban, which fignifies alfobaag. the four gardens, and is one of the principal ornaments of this capital. You go to it by the gate of Daer- wafeyedoulet or of Profperity, built by Abbas the great, to the fouth. ' This Prince ordered fome of his counfellors of ftate, to build fome houfes at their own expence, at the entrance into thefe gardens along this fine walk. One of thefe Lords, called Gemfhe Ai Khan, accordingly erected a building in form of a tower, againft one of the walks that runs along the river ; the reft followed this example, and ftrove to out-do each other in adorning it with fine {tone buildings, and among the reft with a pavilion at the entrance, whence the King as he came out of the gardens might fee all thefe edi- fices! uaa At the diftance of two hundred and fifty paces from the gate of the city, as you go along by thefe gar- dens, you fee two buildings oppofite to each other, with great gates that go into the gardens, and in the mid- dle of this alley is a large oftogon bafon; two other buildings like thefe -at three hundred and thirty eight paces from thence, with a fquare bafon,; and one hundred and feventy paces farther you come to a crofs way, extending to the walls of the gardens. This crofs-way is full of ese ) benches e a ee eg 198 | | fe TRAVELS ‘of 1704. benches, wooden-chairs, and tables, dred and forty paces long and feven- 1704. 7y~ and here in the evening you always teen broad, and built of large ftones. “VY we AY eR ee Oe py ee af pry F. AMeOUS bridge. fee a great number of Perfians, fmoaking and drinking coffee ; the ground here has a flope, where there are trees which afford the fineft fhade in the world; and ac- cordingly it is almoft always throng- ed with people on foot, andon horfe- back, who there divert themfelves with racing and feveral other exer- cifes. As you go ftill farther you come to a great ftone-gate, belong- ing to one of thefe gardens, and a little farther is two other buildings, where they retire to fmoke, and a little farther another crofs-way ; then two buildings like the former, and between them a fquare bafon. Here they fmoke alfo and drink coffee, and here you have a great number of bucklers, and bows and arrows, belonging to the Mamet- holladers and the Heyderries we have mentioned before : At fome diftance from hence there is another oftogon bafon, which butts upon a way which is crofied by a fine river planted on each fide with fena’s. ‘The great road extends above two hundred paces beyond this along the palace and the royal garden, where there is a kind of menagerie. The bridge of Al/a-werdi Khan, the name of its founder, is but eighty paces from hence. ‘The road near it is one thoufand feven hundred and fifty one paces long, and fixty eight broad, adorned on each fide with fena’s planted in the reign of Abbas the great, above one hundred years ago. ‘The part where thefe trees are planted is five paces broad, and is raifed one foot and an half above the way or road itfelf, which is full of fand. This raifed way which runs between the wall of the gar- den and thefe trees is paved with large brick, wherewith alfo the ca- nal that crofles the Chiaer-baag is lined. On the fides of thefe trees which are regularly planted at the diftance of ten foot from each other, isa conveyance to water them. _ The bridge of Mla-werdie-Khan is upon the river of Zenderoet, five hun- It has thirty three arches, fome of which ftand upon fand, which is very hard in this place, and under them the water runs when it is high. There are ninety three niches upon this bridge, fome of which are ftopt up and fome of them open, and the two ends are flanked by four towers. ‘There are parapec walls of brick, with holesthroughout the whole length from the one end to the other, fo that you have here the fineft fight in the world, toge- ther with pretty fummer houfes upon it at the two ends. Four hundred and fixteen paces from this bridge, there is a water-fall received by a bafon fixty paces long and forty paces broad, and near this fall there are eleven large ftone fteps in a ruin« ous ftate, and not far off a great road, trees, and a flope-way, which after- wards becomes level. At fome di- {tance from hence you fee two other houfes of pleafure, and after- wards twelve others, two and two, at nearly an equal diftance from each other, quite to the end of this fine alley or way, which is every where of the fame breadth, and bounded by the King’s great garden, which extends from the water-fall quite hither. There are on each hand one hundred and forty five fena’s, and fome mulberry-trees be- tween them, and from the end of the bridge to that of the alley is two thoufand and forty five paces, to which if you add the length of the bridge itfelf, which is five hun- dred and forty, and the way on this fide which is one thoufand feven hundred and fixty one, you will have in all four thoufand three hun- dred and thirty fix paces. This magnificent alley butts, as we have already obferved, upon the King’s great garden, where there is a fine building painted: without like the reft, and adorned with feftoons of flowers and foliages. The entrance into the garden is delightful; the middle walk is adorned with a fine canal, with a floping fall and feveral 2 jets FRA = ake ane nn ie ten oe EY ar z ti f 3 i im MONS! Soe wecten ariates Se: % LO ECL SEW fh K a ee Mii stay 7 pie ATP RAMEN EH om Salis nade fori caning aie sear te ¥ ROE ES ANION oe. co ety es) 2 ty s 3 te $ Eek es iach: “spade NTE RES ae Eakin as Whe ie Fae CS VEAP: SF SLE EL RAO BE ROA BELEN PETROL pee ode eet RN PRS pe! aie 5 y Ne Pep Me MAE oe . ss j , Bee to, SMR ep cetenammecne eh ee a EM Meta i » - eee ee Be ULNA il STITT TTT TIAL TER CATT TT TTT TTT STEIN : IUVPRRGATECTARUUAT GATT ir Ths Mt CTT TTE coc Le CHYAER-BAP GC. ie a ee See: —BAEG nia ia Heit (Aue a Ma E CHYAPR L L CHYAER-BAEG. mt Travan ry Hai i tt 3 ont) re OFA aA Weta ee Ieee, OF AE AE: Ble ‘: ee Hse “remem nae nt % es = aig ae : Pe Pitas. 3 a ie b. =Sth C= ~~ ~ \ AN A ASS RNS < \ ~ . 3 7 SS SS RSssss= ait iat ey ue y Dien a SS ES oe a eo ES t PA rs = 2 A gme ee PILZ Sa je 3 yy Z, SAN-ABAET. _ eee aha oe ipa WSs 1 i OS GS GS Ge SS Si (SSS Wien Mf i | Bt SR a \ DOS RN AONE SPY OE aba RAE AE TN NG SA NRA IS OM EARS, » ft. i at ht i z BI bn js) g STARA oe rahe ee A. ea * CORNS Litisyi. mn BRYN 199 1704. jets of water. This garden is ex- iv wemely fpacious, is full of fine walks te and = «fruit-trees_ which have a very charming effect; tho’ it would be eafy to heigthen it with other or- naments. It is two thoufand two - hundred and eighty paces in length _ from north to fouth, and one thou- fand fix hundred and forty five paces in breadth from eaft to weft; they call ic Ha/aen-fhericp or the garden of a thoufand paces. You have here feveral lofty towers of earth, which ferve for dove-houfes, with the dung of which they manure their melon grounds. Reprefen- In number 77, you have the firft are i reprefentation of Chiaer-baeg, taken 1aer- ° baeg. from the weft; it was drawn by the fide of the river of Zenderot or Za- jandaroet, which rifes from four great fprings or wells, called Cher- f’zefme AL, or the fource of fprings. This place is in mountains, five days to the weftward of I/paban. ‘There are people who give it two places to fpring from, the firft of which is but three days from this capital, in the village of Damdina, and the fecond where we have already faid ic to be; for the reft it lofes itfelf three days to the eaftward of L/paban in a marfhy plain called Gox-honie. In this reprefentation every. thing that is to be feen is diftinguithed by figures; for example, number [1] points out the gardens which run along the fine alley or walk ofthe Chiaer-baeg, with the way that leads to the bridge; [2] the bridge of A/u- qwerdie-Khan ; {3|a building erected in the reign of King Sef, to be an abode for a Dervis who had been fent for from Judia, and who re- fus’'d to come; [4] a houfe where they wath the bodies of the dead ; [5] the buildings of the Chiaer-baeg ; [6] that of Gem-/bil ali-Khan; [7] a dove-houfe; [8] the river of ZLenderoet. ie. Second re. ‘The fecond profpect taken is the prefenta- Chiaer-baeg it felf, near the bridge be in number 78. The letter 4, di- ftinguifhes the King’s garden ; B, the bridge; C, the houfe where they wath the bodies of the dead ; D, the river; E, the mountains of 1704. Koe-fofa. ‘The other buildings are ~V~ reprefented to the right and left as they are in the Chzaer-baeg. The third reprefentation was Third re- taken from the bridge, on the fide" where the garden gate is; where you fee a tower to gather the wind to refrefh the lodgings in fummer, by means of certain pipes which come out of the roof and convey the ait into the chambers: The fountains and the walks which go towards the building on the fide of the city-gate on the left hand, and to the right of the wallof the gardens of the royal palace. This profpect is in number 79. , The fourth, reprefented in num- Fourth re- ber 80, was taken from the other frefenta- end of the bridge, and fhews the way” beyond it, with the buildings to the right-and left; the water-fall and the bafon, and the way which goes to the end of the building of the King’s great garden. The fifth is ftom the other end, rp +e. and in number 81, fhews the front prefenta- of the building of this garden, and” the canal which runs by the front ate; : The bridge of Sdrras is alfo a rane of fine building, a quarter of a league Shiras. from the gate of Haffen-abaet whofe name it bears. It ison the eaft fide of the city, and one hundred and eighty eight paces long by fixteen broad; it is built with free-ftone, and has on each fide forty two niches fome of which are open, and fome not. Ic has twenty arches under which the river runs when it is high, and eight others on the fides, five to the right and to the lefc. _ The building on the middle of this bridge is open on each fide, and you go through it to go to the bridge above. To the eaftward which 1s the moft proper fituation for draw- ing of this bridge before its arches, you fee a fine f{mooth way, which is eighteen foot broad. From hence, twelve fteps, you go down to the © river, when it happens to be low, - which almoft always is in fummer, fo that horfes ford it with very erat eafe; 200 0 Thao T RUALVEEOLES © of -~ 1704. eafe; this is the more furprizing as the river of Zendercet. There isno- 1704. try™ this river is fometimes {o full and thing mare pleafing to the fight than “VY 1 1 Fine pro- rapid, that it throws down and {weeps ine pr away whole houfes, -as happened in the month of 4prz/of the year 1699. Thefe fteps we have been {peaking of are divided into nineteen parts, feparated from each other by.a paf- fage or canal through which the river runs; but it happens that fome of thefe divifions have but feven or eight fteps, and there is a fine build- ing upon this bridge, under which they walk, and crofs it,, That which appears at the foot of the bridge, ferves for the front gate of _the King’s garden on the city fide; there is on the other fide another like it, concerning which we fhall {peak hereafter. ‘This bridge is re- prefented in number 82, The f- sure [1] diftinguifhes the bridge in general; [2] the garden of Bage- najer ; [3] that of Sadet-abad; [4] the view to the eaftward from upon 4... this bridge ; and in the evening you fee an infinite number of perfons of both fexes, taking the air by the river fide; near the water-fall, and in the fine way that runs along the arches of the bridge, fome on horfe- back, fome on foot, {moaking and drinking coffee, which they there find ready prepared for them. The garden ob bed abad is to the fouth- eaft of the city, and extends quite to the weftward of this bridge, fo that it contains a vaft quantity of ground; it has a fine Haram or fe- raglio buile of ftone, by the river fide, where there is alfo another bridge with“a’rail or baluftrade in- ftead of a parapet; it ftands oppofite to a garden, which you go into by crofling it: This bridge has feventeen arches. - There was a loftier build- ee oe. eee ant eas, A bak 3: RSA eh ee ARES PERO I Mi ee 2S ECORI RAI OIE BE 53 "ais Ste > fee wi ie AS Sus i a Legg PL DOS LL SE AS VT Wy Yh Y W/ Yj Wf ly Wf) SADET t wee 3 ty SN WE CRG 7) SS : ENS WWQQ@ SS MQ » oy ug Z ty Ye , Yi mH / . nat Sea a 1 i a ly Re ny aah p rr rein iio tn yamine acai sett nmi cet ami nian clit ilo Moy ws pe sae Ting mO PRESS Unie > a ae ee SOT eee Seopa hannah aitliela sites sang ak apietlaous Apndipncmninininat: Paige ee eles tithing MES ‘ Re akan ‘ LEN CH are: ee NN tke recalg aba Lee RR ES Aig = RTS NE ERED hme em ROR Ss IIR A aC pe A CANN A a ee Se OE EI BE A AMEE RARE AER ee tees ne aban eee scams ee + 3 . Wave M Ss Ae 4 im ig ; F oe ii ict t ‘ Q ANAT DIRE MELEE Fe ED SEEN Pa tenis i { COURT NCE 2. F 8 pbs BRU Ye Ne 1704. ing above this feraglio, which was SA burnt this fummer while the King was there. On one fide of this * 4 fort f building you fee a fine * Talael, gallery or amphithe- where his Majefty gives audience to atre, open foreign minifters, behind which there on three Sides. is a magnificent building forty paces long, by thirty three broad, and the Talael itfelf is thirty-fix by forty- two, withtwo fteps in front, eacha foot and a half high; in the middle there is a marble bafon which is eight paces by fix. Going ftill far- ther, you come to a place raifed . three foot without fteps, and ano- ther like it a little farther, on the fide of the walls of the building from whence you go into the apart- ments, and here you have a bafon of four paces by fix. Upon the wails are fix pictures in niches, as big as the life; they are of men and 1704. women, and four of them are re- “=p prefented in the Spani/b habit, with each a glafs of wine in the hand. You have here alfo two women painted on the two walls, befide each other, one after the Spani/h manner, and one dreffed after the an- cient manner; but they are very in- differently done. The reft isall gile from top to bottom, and adorned with flowers, foliages, and animals, and with twenty columns painted after the fame manner, and ftriped with blue and red, which has an effect prettyenough. You have the whole in number 83, where the Ta/ael is diftinguifhed by the letter 4, the Haram or. feraglio by B, the bridge by C, and the river by D. When the King is there he ftops the courfe Pont ZFARESTON. : Vor. I. Eft of a A ARS cia Kao 5 SR al ae AM SL Pt dh : haa 4 ; Poet ee Oe Se ee eee Oe eee re CemiRRE RAINES TIE POE y SEER ETT ST eR Tee ae ny ee Pee Cee he P r ae 202 Te OT RMA VY ELS Zof 1704. of the river by wooden dykes in the wv canals or openings of the bridge of Haffan-Abaet, to bring the water to run by the Ya/ael, near which there are two or three poor veflels in which he diverts himfelf with rowing with his concubines. Fine pro. 1 drew another profped from a lof- fee@. ty fummmer-houfe in the garden, from whence you have a profpect of the bridge of the Chiaer-baeg, you have it in number 84; the letter 1, di- ftinguifhes the feraglio; B, the bridge which an{wers to the garden, on the other fide; C, that of the Chiaer- SAAS SUE USD SSeS US baeg; D, the river, and another 1704. bridge at a greater diftance from VW the city; it 1s called Share/ion and has ten arches. and a large building on one fide thro’ which you go to crofs it. ‘The profpec here, on all fides is delightful and the river full of large rocks around which it {weeps. Here I. would add that at the di- ftance of five days to the fouth-weft of If/paban, upon a lofty flat hill you meet with the fource of the Aeb-chie- River of ran, whofe water is moft excellent, Ac>- and produces good fith efpecially “* sip trouts. It falls into the Euphrates. RR EG OF PR RE C@HA’P;: ALE _ Of the Kings of Perfia, of their Affairs of State, and of the great Officers of the Crown. Monarchy HiE monarchy of this great Hid Per- kingdom is one of the moft ans, defpotic, and moft abfolute in the world; the King knows no rule for his condua but his will, except with regard to religious matters, which they fay he dares not alter; he fove- reignly difpofes of the lives and goods’ of his fubjects, of what quality or Eaege condition foever. He is born in dena whe feraglio, which is guarded by black eunuchs within, and by white tween fore walls without education, and without the leaft knowledge of _ what is ftirring in the world, like a = plant that languifhes upon the face -. of the earth, when deprived of the a rivit Hing, heat of the fun. When ‘Nie has attained a certain age, they ~ sbehis pedagogue; and: teaches him ~ to read and to write; he inftruéts him alfoin the Ni heoimedan faith ee 2 and-how to purify himéelf, VE oO pray, and | to faft. Nor fied i fill his head with the great actions and miracles of their prophet and the twelve Imams, and to in{pire without, and there is brought up be- ‘give him, a black eunuch, who isto at the fame time to feat” hint tpon him with an implacable hatred of the Mohammedan Turés, and the Mogul, whom the Per/fians contemn and curfe, thinking thereby they do a meritorious action, and render an acceptable fervice unto God ; but they take no manner of care to in- ftruct him in hiftory and politicks, = nor to fire him with a love of vir- tue; on the contrary, to take him’ ~ off from all forts of ufeful reflection, they abandon him to women, and indulge him in every kind of fenfu- ality from his mofttender years. Not . fatisfied with thus débauching and perverting his mind, they ‘make him chew: opium, and dtiak Koekenar or Poppy-water, mto which they put amber and other ingredients which | €XCite to’ tuft, and charm for a time with ravithing ideas of vifions, but “at Jength fink him. into an abfolute Le infenfibility. “Thus home, gather about them a number pafs through their courts, and they. 1704. muft authorife all mandates and o-\-V™4 ther writings of confequence. The Legit. The Muzifebid or Legiff is above all ecclefiaftics not only on account of his learning, but becaufe by ver- tue of his office he is accounted {a- cred. It is he that fettles and ex- plains all points of faith, the mean- ing of the Alcoran, and the Hadges of their prophets, and the Jmams. The veneration they have for him runs to that length, that their learned men make no fcruple to give our, that the government of the Mobam- medans belongs of right to him, and that the King is only the executor of his orders, in vertue of which he has the wielding of the {word, wherewith he is obliged to chattife thofe who are obftinate or difobe- dient, tho’ he has the power of do- ing nothing by his own bare au- thority. The reafon they give for this point of doétrine is, that all true believers are directed by the will of God, which is revealed to the Mu- = zifebid in the abfence of an Imam; 6 | that it is impoffible for God to de- 5 clare fuch his will to temporal princes, whoare loft in the pleafures | of this world, and think of nothing ae but the gratification of their paffions, a, regardlefs of the falvation of their fouls; who far from knowing God are quite unacquainted with them- felves, and neglect to feek after the path which leads to eternal life. The opinion the people have Aysrocrig imbibed of the wifdom and fanétity % tr of the clergy is the reafon they al-“” moft all of them affect a profound diffimulation, with the double view of keeping them in error, and them- felves in the reverence they profefs for them. So that altho’ they are actuated by the moft boundlefs am- bition they difcipline themfelves in the prefence of the people; they humble themfelves that they may be exalted, and would feem to defpife what they moft eagerly grafp at; in fhort by their exterior one would imagine they afpired at nothing but the joys of Paradife.. They, when at of young people to inftruét them in I the 2 cee hel Ct TE Fe Sea aed yi s OR os . a OT \ vee : » GOR NEL ws abeoh) BRU YN F 704. the way that leads to heaven, and to UW™ affea them ftrongly with the feem- 209 or fue for what they want; and 1704; thefe they ufe with a degree of bar-“a-~ ing zeal that fires them, they ufe thefe ftupid youths with a moft ex- traordinary tendernefs and forbear- ance; they are never in a paftion ; their words are few, and they have fuch an air of wifdom and fandtity as Their babitis quite rapturous. ‘Their cloathing is white and of camels or goats hair ; and thy wear large turbants which make them look meager and low. When they appear in publick they affect a great fimplicity, -andare at- tended by one fervant only who carries a book after them; they go gently along, and keep their eyes fixed upon the ground. They are great frequenters of the mofchs, where they pour forth long prayers with an affected zeal, and often withdraw into a corner, where they inftrua& young children, and fome- times they preach fermons to. the people. By thefe artifices it is that they win the hearts of men, and in- jeCt a terror into the King himfelf, who would not dare to be guilty of the leaft innovation in the practice of their religion for fear of the heavy wrath of thefe holy ones, Many examples there are of this, nor can a ftronger proof be given of the reverence they have for them than the privilege they have of fit- ting at a {mall diftance from men of the {word at royal affemblies. The manner how the nobility live at court is very different from theirs ; the. courtiers affect a very extraordinary civility, and an engaging freedom, but then the tongue and the heart never travel together. They entirely give them- felves up to fenfuality and plea- fures; their habits, their equipages are magnificent, and they are fo ex- ceflively fond of money, that there is nothing to be obtained of them but by bribes and prefents. For the reft they are very affable and feem to be very good natured; but their behaviour is quitelow and mean to thofe of whom they expect any favour, and they mortally hate thofe. that crofs them in what they {olicit, VoL. Le? barity quite inhuman, when it hap- pens they have an advantage over them; they flip no opportunity of hurting them, and have the art of giving a bad turn to the qualities for which they are moft valuable ; in a word, they can never reft till they have deftroyed them. On the other hand they are the moft abject flatterers of thofe who are in the good graces of fortune, and in great employs, and attribute to them all the perfections they can poffibly think of; but thefe even are no fooner fallen into. difgrace, then they in- fult over their misfortunes, and moft fhamefully abufe thofe, who in the days of their profperity, they were wont to lift up to the skies; and to thefe thus fallen it often happens that thofe who ftand deepeft in debe to them for favours, are the very firft to tear them to pieces. And much after fame manner it Men of let- is that their menof letters, or.of the zers. pen, as they call them in this coun- try, behave in general. They are proud and felf fufficient, envious and jealous of the merit of others, ca- refling and cajoling thofe they abo- minate moft when they meet them; but no fooner is their back turned than they moft unmercifully abufe them. Diffimulation is their fa-gheirdis. vourite vice, and their vanity is fuch /™/ati. as to prompt them to applaud them- {elves upon every occafion, and with- out {cruple to throw out panegyricks upon their.own great merit. And yet, to all appearance, they ate re- ligious and devout, and affect to feem greatly difgufted with all world- ly vanities; they have the joys of Paradife eternally in their mouths, tho’ ac the fame time in private, they wallow in the moft enormous and moft unnatural fenfualities. For the reft they have an utter averfion for the Chriftians of Ewrope, and for all that differ from them in mat- ters of faith; nor would there be any fafety for them in this country -did not the laws of nations keep thefe infidels in awe. Hhh Ufury 210 The TRAVELS of 1704. Ufury prevails here more than tA~uin any other country whatfoever, tho’ it muft be confeffed there are good men here, as well as elfe- where; but in general we may fay the Perfians are ungrateful and void of all fhame and modefty. Perfia confifts of three orders 1704. like the ftates in Europe: The firft —wrs confifts of the nobility and men of the fword; the fecond of men of the robe, and the third of mer- chants and artificers, PRARPRPRPR PR PEARL RAR PEAR PR PRE PEAR ARG PG PQQ CELA Po een. Funeral of the Kings of Perfia, qualities of the prefent King, his Pi€ture, habit of the Perfians. | HEY never publifh the King of Perfia’s death till his fuc- ceffor has been feated upon the throne; and yet King Su/zman, the father of his prefent Majefty, had no fooner given up the ghoft, than the news of it flew over all parts by the indifcretion of his firft phyfician. This Prince died upon the ¢wenty- ninth of “fuly 1694, in the forty- eighth year of his age, after he had Death of reigned twenty-nine years. The of- oftheKing: Fcers of the crown and chief men of the Kingdom, immediately feized on the palace, and took care that every thing was quiet on all fides. The inhabitants fhut up their houfes and fhops, and no people of rank His fone. appeared in the ftreets. Upon the va. = firft day of Auguft his Majetty’s body) was placed upon a wheel car- riage, covered with a moft magnifi- cent pall of gold cloth, and con- veyed to a chapel a league from Ifpaban, from whence it was car- ried to Com, there to be interr’d in the fepulchre of the Kings his fa- thers. All the grandees of the King- dom followed him on foot, excep- ting one of the officers of the crown, } to the chapel, with flambeaux {mok- ing but not lighted. When they had reached the chapel, all that and attended tore their garments, had returned to the city, leaving fome of their friends or rela- tions to follow the body in the night. They double the guards of the palace to prevent the diforders which are be to feared upon thefe occafions, in a town fo populous and crowded with ftrangers. In the mean time the officers of the crown ordered the aftrologers, ac- cording tocuftom, to acquaint them with a favourable or aufpicious time when they might inaugurate the new King, perfuaded that in that cafe the King would attempt nothing to their prejudice, and efpecially in the beginning of his reign. °Till the aftrologers had thus declared themfelves, there was no noife of drums or trumpets to be heard, nor any other found that might interrupt the folemnity of the mourning, and this confultation, which continued to the fixth of duguft, when the aftrologers unanimoufly declared they had found the aufpicious called Mierfa-taber, andan ecclefia- moment. They laid hold on it for Coronation ftick of diftin@ion, who, on account the coronation of the deceafed’s eld- ae new of their great age, were allowedtogo eft fon, who had been taken out of “’”* on horfeback. 'Thefe lords were fol- lowed by the men of the robe and pen, lamenting and finging, and thefe were fucceeded by a great body of foldiers, who attended the corpfe the Seraglio immediately upon the death of this prince, and locked up in another apartment, where he re- mained till he was conducted to the throne, where all the grandees of the orsty tesyt WR ACT ARMA Be e L 1s iwi im SHORES SAO RAAB Oe ke ae aN hs vi AS, RS "he * ee, manne te MS Peng Le Ee eee are veri Givens CCMA 7 Sata waa WVU aun eserves Hane GOD 4 K ih CRRUTAI DT SRY VP Ae Sore vivusee ‘ Garver vy r irae . Fe MANNS Y Cr i PAAAAD EY Cyl MALATE So MYATT AN epi 1 waaay LEVY ri y aA aa voartet ny ae : as DORA ae \ oH Per ee aad A) PILE PDEs € ac af Pisscccrsnnr Ain ae 3 ‘a Y ansat ‘a ty erecnicyn Eacaninae ERTL j Hi > ‘ 2 a 2 = SSN ve y D HAUSE vine 4etaaas LE Roy HossEn. PAA GHNEDMN, SET YY eetancarss COI OT ERT ene AMR A AIBA AAA RITE AAT MOISIPD, EDA TAA Ya TY BS GAATA fy VAI ee LAVORA LOAN RR a, 7 UTAPATAGN! we SAT YAY) om NAb Sau we At Salat ry . Ca Ary KERR RE 4 | 7 A x 1s at AAA en eYyeuya uy NO See er Waly “mraaase MRT Ai aOR ER Ll-yNat his feet. G O R’°N: Eé&Lilk-Uss 4LSEL-B: BR: U-YN. 1704. the court came to throw themfelves Then they opened all the houfes and thops, which had been fhut up till now, and had bon- fires and illuminations on all fides. The next day after the coronation, the new King called Soltan-boffein, fent royal robes to all the Lords and Chiefs of the court, who till then wore their cloaths they had rent and torn, and there was an end of the mourning. After this the drums and trumpets were heard on all fides, and thefe rejoicings lafted forty days, according to cuftom. The King was about four and twenty years old, not large, but well made, and handfome of face. I looked attentively upon -him feveral times, when I was at J/pahan, to imprint a full idea of him in my mind, that I might draw his picture, in which I fucceeded tolerably well. His pifureHe was in a fummer drefs, but I He loves building. chofe to reprefent him in a. winter fuit, which is much more magnifi- cent. He is eafily diftinguifhed by a jewel he wears in his turbant, with three black herons feathers ; you fee him in numb. 85. | This Prince takes fo great a plea- fure in building, that they reckon he has that way expended four or five millions in the ten years he has been upon the throne, tho’ the Gardens and the houfes of pleafurecoft him nothing. When he has a mind to build any where, proclamation of fuch his intention is made by found of trumpet, that thofe who love him may come and work for him. Upon this the artificers repair to him from all parts, without claiming the leaft reward ; nor do the grandees of the Kingdom fail to fend others at their own expence. The Arme- nians are bound to contribute in the fame manner, and I know it for cer- tain that a large garden which was made in my time coft them three hundred Tomans,which amountto one hundred and twenty thoufand livres. This Prince is fo given to women that he knows no bounds, of his lewd practices, and is quite carelefs of the welfare of the ftate, and his 3 Zit evil example is the caufe that juftice 1703. is ill adminiftred in his great Em-~“Y¥™ pire, where licence reigns, and vice is unpunifhed. And hence ic is chat the high roads which were once fo well fecured, are now fo full of rob- bers. And hence alfo it is chat the clergy Eunucts in have a very great afcendant over this/#¥” Prince as wellas the eunuchs, the out- cafts of human nature, and quite un- worthy of high pofts and honours, feeing they are no better than the guard of the Seraglio, a place de- voted to the beftial pleafures of the King ; befides that their air and mein has fomething fhocking in it. But notwithftanding all this, they are the firft in favour, infomuch that the counfellors of {tate are o- bliged to pay courtto them, and flat- ter them, a very mortifying circum- {tance for perfons of birth and confi- deration, who could not poflibly affure themfelves of the King’s good graces, or of the poffeflion of their employs, without fubmitting themfelves to fuch a lownefs of behaviour. There are fome, however, who pigrace have a heart too big for fuch anunbe- 2 4 Geor- coming fubmiffion, and who know not how to difguife their thoughts, Some years ago there was a Georgian Nobleman, called Ru/fan-khan,a man of merit, and in poffeffion of one of the firft employs of the ftate, being Captain General of the King’s Armies and Governor of Tauris, the ancient Ecbatan, the capital of Media, who had the boldnefs to tell the King, ata great feaft, and in prefence of the firft Grandees of the court, That be was an ignorant Prince, and that be never would know any thing ; and that in fhort he could not prevail on himfelf to ferve him any longer. Upon this, he was the next day de- pofed, and received orders not to ftir out of his houfe, which he obeyed. Mean time, his friends follicited fo ftrongly for him, that they pro- mifed to reftore him; but.he was fo far from thanking them for this officioufnefs, that-he was angry with them for concerning themfelves with his affairs, and declared:chat he ab- orn folutely gian noble. m ane 212 Thee Te RAA 1703. folutely would not ferve fuch a —s-~ Prince, and perfifted in this his re- folution to the day of his death. Difgraceoy A Certain grandee called Moe/fa-beek, anuber an Armenian originally, but whofe nobleman. ovand-father had embraced Mohamme- difin,drew a more fevere cenfure upon himfelf in the year 1704, while I was at I/pahan, for {peaking his thoughts too freely. This nobleman, who had been raifed to the firft pofts, and to the government of the fame city of Tauris, after he had been general of his Majefty’s Georgian and Circaf: fran flaves, came to I/paban, where the King asked him his bufinefs, and commanded him, without prefuming to make any anfwer, to return to his government, and repair from thence to Efferabad, a town of Mazande- ran, and there put himfelf at the head of his army and therewith to march againft the Turcomans, who infefted that country, and carried off the inhabitants and the cat- tle. He anfwered the King, He was very forry he could not obey his Majefty’s commands, becaufe he had been well informed that at court they did not a& as became them, and that he had been given to un+ derftand they only wanted to fend him away to deftroy him; that if it was néceflary he fhould be facri- ficed to the malice of his enemies, he had rather fubmic to his fate that inftant, than have it fall upon him after. his departure. This he faid in a dfy cateélefs manner, and adding fonie reafons and argu- ments upon what he had faid, he fo exafperated the King againft him, that they went to his houfe upon the fixth of September to {eize him, and having bound him, carried him publickly to prifon upon a mule, and clapt a feal upon all thac belonged to him; but notwithftanding all this outrage, they releafed him a few days afterwards, upon condition he fhould confine himfelf to his houfe. Contempt Many other examples might be op pa exhibited of the violence and weak- eweM?8- nef of this Prince, who thereby fo expofes himfelf to the contempt of all his fubjects that they publickly 3 VELS of fay, They have nothing of a King 1704. but the name. And indeed it may “Ww with reafon good be faid, Unbappy 1s the country which 1s ruled by a child. They fay his younger brother, who is kept in the palace, and who has both fenfe and merit, when he hears of the condué of the King his bro- ther, often criesout, I cannot imagine what be does with the Crown. This Prince one day fending him a bottle of wine, the other fent it back to him, difdainfully faying, He did not want if, ‘Thefe things fo different from the manner of other countries, muft appear ftrange and incredible to thofe who know nothing of the cuftoms and maxims of this. For the reft, the weaknefs of this Prince is {uch that when he lofes a trifle at play, he begs of the party that won it of him, to fay nothing of it to the Nazir, who is to pay him. It remains that we fpeak of the Habit of manner of drefs among the Perfans, ae whereupon we have to obferve that their drefs is fhorter than that of the Turks, and different according to the rank and quality of the’Perfon that wears it. The drefs of the men of the fword, for example, is quite dif- ferent from what. is worn by the men of the robe, and the fame it is with regard to their wives. There is alfo a wide difference between the drefs of the married and the unmarried women; of women ad- vanced in years and young women. The habit of the moft confiderable of the mén of the robe is reprefen- ted in number 86.. The Mandie/ of turbant they wear upon the head varies alfo;' they are of all forts of colours, fome ftriped, fome wrought with goldand filver, and fome white; The churchmén wear them much larger than any others, but extreme- ly neat, and very nicely folded up; in a word their drefs is very magni- ficent, and their garments moftly flowered, which in my mind how- ever, does not {6 well become the men as the Women ; and to fay the truth; the ‘habits of the Turks are moré modeft, areberter under{tood, and havea more mafculine air with them. CORNELL TUS (hike BR Yh 1704. them. For the reft, the Perfans “YN never alter their fathions, and have preferved that air of grandeur which prevailed among them in the days of Alexander. Perfons of condition never go on foot, but on horfeback, with runners on one fide of them: Thofe-of lefs confideration imitate them, and are obliged to incur debts to fupport them in. this extrava- gance, but what they thus incur they never think of paying. The 213 erandees and fuch as are rich adorn 1704. the bridles of their horfes with mafly —W™ gold, and others follow them in pro- portion. They have always their Callion, or pipe catried after them, which is properly {peaking, and chief- ly, a bottle of water, through which they draw the fmoke of their to- bacco, This Cal/ion is adorned with gold, and is extremely neat; thofe of inferior rank adorn them with filver, and have them carried FEMME PERSIENNE. Li} YE ee ee) 214 dee RAV Bh S vof 1704. after them inthe fame manner. Our which is two or three inches broad, 1704. Wy director had a golden bridle and his is adorned with pearls and precious WwW Callion adorned with the fame, and fo had his fecond, as well as all that appear at court, where they are only confidered in proportion to the gran- deur of their appearance. The drefs of the women feems to me to be ftill more agreeable; the wives of the men of the robe wear a forehead-band adorned all over with pearls and precious ftones; it is four fingers broad, and goes but half way round the head; but the wives of the counfellors of {ftate, wear it all round the head, in the nature of acrown, and call it Bor/bz- borce; and upon it they have feveral plumes of black ‘herons feathers, aigrettes, and bunches of flowers with golden leaves. To this band or diadem they havea jewel which falls ‘upon the forehead, and they faften ‘it on with a rope of pearl which comes under the chin, and their hair falls down in feveral trefles. They wear alfo a white veil, em- broidered with gold which fails over their fhoulders, necklaces of precious ftones and pearls, and golden chains which fall down to their girdle with a box of perfume... Their up- per garment is of brocade of gold or filver, it is alfo fometimes quite plain, and under it they wear a vett _ which falls down bengath the girdle ; their fhifts are of taffaty, or fome other fine filk embroidered with gold. - They wear alfo drawers and under _ petticoats made in theloom; buskins which come up four fingers above the ankle, which are of embroidery, _ velvet or fome richer ftuff. Their - flippersare of green or red thagreen, - pointed, and with a heel raifed of the fame colout, lined, and adorned Tittle flowers. Their girdle, . ftones, and upon the breaft they wear certain ribbons which fall down to the girdle. One of thefe ladies is reprefented as going abroad in number 87. Over all this, in win- ter, they wear a yown lined with a cotton-cloth, which falls down a foot below the girdle, and when it is very cold indeed, they wear a gown of gold or filver brocade, lined with fables or fome other fur. When they go abroad they are from the head to the foot covered with a white veil, which fhews nothing but their eyes, as may be obferved in the figure above; this veil is com- monly all of one piece; they wear alfo bracelets of precious {tones, and have their fingers loaded with rings. The women of a middling rank, drefs themfelves in proportion to their means, and the wives of the nobility and men of the {word wear over their clothes a filk net, or: fomething of the kind, which has a very pretty effec. To this 1 fhall alfo fubjoin the p,,; habit of the Ya/oo/s or royal porters, #2 porters who ferye alfo in the quality off” ufhers. Thefe wear a loftier turbant. than the reft, with feathers, and great © muftaches, like the nobility, and a beard upon their chin; which reaches © Some of them alfo™ to the ears. wear beards after the Turkifh man- ner. This Ya/ool is reprefented in number 88. In number 89, you have the re- belonging to our director, with a great poniard of a particular make, in his girdle, and in number go you have a female of the fame com- plexion, with a.tea-board in her _ hand. } 2 Ria, ~ Slaves re- prefentation of a male black flave presented. RL ak, pede tent cy i i (hes ont 5 is ea . SERS ye ae w\ Sy Ay q * ye ? Sere Site ec aren alte NBN Nee apy rep NENA Fr Nn oma dh be Rat is Pea WRN eos Upp raae Vee ee eM AC. ' r _ epg ee " aL hiy rf ¢ 9 hs ‘ i iy Vif, i a; eH Sony 52 sats Se > See Z i = : ; ea : eee : eS CX as AY HomME PERS * re, i, [fies ssirers Se Hi i} ii Hy i} A i " ORONO ! ay ae ‘ae DAME PERSANNE. AT Sie at! 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LUE, Funeral pomp inftituted in honour of Huffein. The manner how the Armenians at Julfa receive their Friends. Arrival of an Ambaffador from Turkey: Days of PON the /ixth of May, the Perfians began the mourning ordained for the commemoration of the death of their great faint Hu/- fein, the fon of Ali and Fatma, the only daughter of Mohammed, and this they enter upon as foon as they perceive the new moon. All the city puts on mourning, and great la- mentations are made on the fad fubje& of his death, which happened, as they fay, in the year 1027, when Mohammed, according to their com- putauon, was obliged one thoufand one hundred and eighteen years ago to fly from Mecca to Medina, to fave him({elf from theperfecuting fury It was in Arabia led Kzerbila, where there is his tomb, and whither the Perfians, who ac- count him their true Imam or chief, refort from all parts with very ex- traordinary devotion, And, indeed, King Abbas the great boafted it as the moft glorious circumftance of his life that he was defcended from him, tho’ thatis an honour the Manner of Lurks will not allow him. This this mourn- mourning continues for ten days to- is _ gether; they appear in the ftreets in {mall companies of ten or twelve perfons half naked, who blacken their faces, and are not very unlike our chimney-fweepers; a frightful fight! they affect a mortified air, and fing out lamentations to the found of certain caftagnets, we have formerly mentioned. The murder of this faint is reprefented by perfons in arms, and by his image which is very large and hollow, and put in- to motion by a perfon inclofed with- in it, and whofe legs are plainly to be feen. Thofe concerned in this mummery and who carry this image 3 about, receive a reward from the fpeCtators, who give them certain {mall pieces of filver of very little value; tho’ indeed there are fome who are more generous to them. For the reft, during this time, they preach publickly in the ftreets morn- ing and evening, and efpecially in the crofs-ways, and the other more frequented parts, which they inclofe with tapeftry and {pread with carpets. They adorn alfo the walls with buck- lars, and other pieces of armour and arms, and the pulpits for the preachers are raifed up five or fix fleps; they hold fome written papers in their hands, upon which they often caft their eyes, pronouncing the elogy, and reciting the actions and wonders of the faint. A fecond preacher fome fteps below the firft, pours out, in his turn, the praifes of Huffein, finging out with a loud voice. The places where they have thefe fermons are full of feats and benches; and as I had the curiofity to go to one of them with fome friends, they no fooner faw us than they ordered us feats, for the refpect they bore to our director, who was in great efteem at I/pahan. I ftaid there a good half hour, and ob- ferved that all the auditors were fo affected by the eloquence of their doftors, that they were diffolved intotears. Atthe corner of the wall of the place where we were, they had placed a great figure indifferent- ly well counterfeited, and ftufted with ftraw, to reprefent the mur- derer of Huffein, called Omar, whom they burnt at night in feveral parts of the city. Thefe fermons or dif- courfes are delivered alfo in the night in many great places, upon theatres erected for that purpofe, with laths, upon which they place above a thoufand lamps, but fo auk- wardly 216 1704. yn Dance of joung lads, Great pro- ceffion. The wardly and carelefsly that the wind blows out the greateft part of them. For the reft, the number of f{pecta- tors is inexpreffible. | Upon the Sunday following we celebrated the feaft of Whit/untide at our director’s, and thither came two bands of young lads, nearly of the fame heigth, and very neatly drefled, to dance according to cu- ftom, They had certain fmall fticks in their hands, which they ftruck againft each other as they danced, and they were attended by two or three men of their diftrict who {ung. Thefe dancers were continually throwing their arms over their heads with wonderful celerity, and affumed fuch attitudes and motions as were quitecharming. ‘Thefe were to have been followed by a larger band, but upon the way they met with a band belonging to another diftri&t, which attacked them and retarded them, fo that they could not come ; befides that they were to go to court that night. But to return to our fubject, the chief folemnity of this mourning or funeral pomp, was a great procef- fion which was exhibited the next day. I ftood to fee it in a fhop in the Bazar, by which it was to pafs. This proceffion opened with fome of the Deroga’s officers on horfeback, who were followed by fome fingers with each a taper in his hand, and in vefts either of purple or black, agreeable to the nature of the folem- nity and the lamentations that were made; fome of them werealfo half naked, and others carried a great black ftandard furled up. After thefe, there appeared three camels, upon the firft of which there appear- ed two boys almoft naked, three upon the fecond, one behind ano- ther, and upon the third, the image of a woman covered up, . with a lit- tle boy. Then five other camels, upon each of which there were fe- ven or eight little boys, who were alfo almoft naked, in cages of lath, and two enfigns followed them. Then a chariot with an open coffin containing a dead body, followed by another covered with white and fome fingers. After this there ap- TAR A VEESLS of peared a chariot laden with incenfe 1704. wvV~ with two perfons, and four little boys, with each a book in his hand, and with a table before them. This chariot was furrounded with what looked like tinned lamps, and was followed by a great ftandard furled up, and by twelve armed foldiers, with each an helmet on his head ; and thefe by two little boys comically dreffed up, with feathers and bells. Then camea young prifoner on horfe- back, followed by fixteen others chained one after another, and five others pinioned. After thefeappeared a chariot covered with fand, out of which appeared fix bloody heads, but the bodies were not to be feen, fo that one would have faid they had been cut off: There were two perfons dreffed in this chariot, which was followed by that which carried the body of Huffein, reprefented by a man in armour, with a fabre in his hand. He was all over covered with blood, to ftir up the people to grief and lamentation, and indeed their fighs, and groans, and out- cries are not to be expreffed; and it muft be confefled there can be no- thing more moving than this fight, which we had it not in our power to laugh at, though we were very fen- _ fible of the ridicule and idle fuper- {tition of the whole. This chariot was followed by a number of young perfons, fome of them pinioned, and fome with their arms free, attended by.a guard armed with ftaves, with which they, from time to time, threatened them, upon which they would ftoop and bend down their heads the moft naturally in the world, Thefe were followed by a great © chariot, drawn by men, like the reft, covered alfo with bloody fand, upon which weretwo dead bodies,and four others, of which there appear- ed nothing but the head; fix young turtle doves went backwards and for- wards in this chariot, after which there appeared another, from which came out legs and arms, and in which there were two lighted tapers; then a third with fix heads and two per- fons drefled, followed by another with 1704. with a dead body in armour, anda ~V~ perfon as it were fick, Then two - enfigns, and an horfe with the fad- dle on one fide, attended by two drums and fome fingers, and then another chariot upon which there were two coffins, and two little boys, with eacha book in his hand, who, from time to time, embraced them, and acted their part wonderfully well. This went before another of extraordinary fize, containing ten or twelve dead bodies, of which nothing was to be feen but their bloody legs and arms, with five or fix prifoners, followed by a young man on horfe-back, wounded with arrows; he was all over blood, feem- ed to be a ftranger, and feemingly fo faint he was ready to fall. After him appeared a coffin covered with a black cloth, attended by fingers and dancers who feemed to condu& itin triumph, and after them were car- ried three lances adorned with preci- ous ftones. Then camean horfe laden with bows and arrows, a turbant, and great {tandard ; then five other horfes, laden with bucklers, bows, and ar- rows; and three javelins upon the points of which appeared an hand. Atlaft, this proceflion was clofed by an horfe richly caparifon’d, upon which there were three pairof pigeons; but this horfe was not in his place. ue _ After I had feen all this fighe, ee ae ecclefiaftick was fo good as to explain the whole myftery of it to me: He told me, the turtle- doves I had feen upon one of the chariots, reprefented thofe which appeared upon the body of Huffein when he was killed, and that thefe fame turtle doves, daubed with his blood, flew away to Medina, where lived this faint’s fifter, who upon fight of them knew of his death, as fhe had foretold it beforehand. That the chariot with the two cof- fins, attended by two little boys with each a book in his hand, re- refented the two fons of Hu/ffein, Mie Asker and Ali-Echbar, whom they give out to have been flain with arrows. Thatthe young man wounded with arrows was defigned MOL. 1: COsReNc Edel tS -aL@ey BsRAU YON. alfo to reprefent Ali-Echber; that 1704, the coffin covered with black was Sexe that of Hujfeen; and that the chariot with fix heads, by which there were two perfons drefied, reprefented his _ children. Thatthe fteel or iron hand fixed at the point of the javelins, was the fignal of war which the leaders or partifans of the Perfian Moham- medans wore formerly upon their ftandards, and that the five fingers of that hand reprefented Mohammed Alt Fatma, the daughter of Mobam- med and the wife 4, Hajjan and Huffein : So that every part of this procefflion refers to fome circum- {tance or other of the death of Hu/- fein and his feventy two friends flain with him, and canonized for martyrs by the Perfians. | It is to the laft degree furprifing that the perfons whofe heads, legs, and arms appear in the chariots, fhould be able to contain themfelves without the leaft motion, for the whole day together that this pro- ceffion lafted. Moft of the heads had even long beards, and their necks were fo fqueezed, that the head feemed feparated from the body, befides that their eyes moved hardly at all. Buc I was told upon this occafion they make them fwallow down a kind of drink which deprived them of their fenfes, and of all motion during the time. For the reft, there is no being impofed on with regard to this, for I prefently diftinguifhed the only head of wax which was among the reft; and indeed it muft be acknowledged the Perfans are very artful in thefe forts of repre- fentations. On the morrow, by break of day, we went to the fame place, to fee the fequel of this folemnity ; but the King did not come till two hours afterwards. It was a kind of parade of the two divifions of the city, who in as the day before, there appeared fome of the Deroga’s officers on horfe- back, followed by fome young peo- ple armed with ftaves, and crying K kk out, Parade of : the ovo procefiion carried feveral ornaments divifions of prepared for the purpofe. Firft, “%- 218 1704. ie The TRA out Huffein, Huffein, skipping and wy~ dancing. After thefe came fome Another proceffion. that plaid upon inftruments, and fome drums, followed by the citi- gens of feveral diftricts; the firft company of them was armed with drawn fabres and fhields, and the others with ftaves perfectly well painted. They were all very neat- ly dreffed, with velvet vefts, and fine fafhes, and extraordinary tur- bants, and marched in good order, differing in nothing from each other, but as they were more or lefs mag- nificent. A party of thefe citizens, of nearly the fame degree or for- tune had prepared a pretty machine or refting place, not very unlike a coach, and embellifhed with look- ing-glafs, hung with fabres and po- niards and other arms mounted with gold or filver, a fight very agreeable to fee. There were others loftier without tops or coverings, open within and more adorned with look- ing-glafs. The greateft and moft confiderable of thefe companies goes on before. ‘There were five ma- chines or refting-places of the kind we have been {peaking of, and a fixth at the Chiaer-baeg between two buildings. This was all garnithed with or compofed of looking glafs, in form of an altar, with two doors, which when they opened fhewed all the ornaments. It was very lofty, and a preacher mounted it as foon as the King appeared at the building of his fecond garden, which has a long gallery. This ftruGture or ftand ftood there three or four days. It confifted of pieces which fitted each other, and which were put together on the fpot, for it had been impoffible to have moved it whole through the gates of the ‘city. This fine proceffion was fucceed- ed by another, which opened with fome ftandards, and a great number of horfes, fome of which had their heads adorned with great plumes of white feathers, and others were richly dreffed out, and laden with fine veftments, fabres, bucklers, bows and arrows, and other arms. Some of them had even turbants, larger ‘ribbons and tufts. VEL S® of plumes, and other ornaments; they 1704. were followed by fome fingers, mu- ~V~ ficians and dancers, waving certain flags over their heads as they danced ; others carried pikes adorned with The proceffion appeared afterwards as the day before, thofe it confifted of halted from time to time, and as they fung threw chopped ftraw over their heads cry- ing out, Hujffein, Huffein. Some of them had a drawn fabre in one hand and a fhield in the other; the reft had ftaves nicely painted and gilr, and ten foot long, and feemed to breath nothing but war; but the Deroga who was prefent with above a thoufand horfemen, takes a very particular care to prevent their com- ing to blows, pofting his people in the van, the center and the rear of this proceflion. He pofts others alfo upon the way they are to pafs,and fuf- fers notthe diftri€ts to advance butthe one after the other. In aword he omits nothing to prevent diforders, and the quarrels which might arife with regard to rankin a march,where there are narrow pafies, and where for that reafon they, at certain di- ftances, poft foldiers provided with fire arms. Perfians have a notion, that thofe who perifh upon this occafion go dire@ly to Paradife. And accord- ingly they make no enquiry ‘after murders committed at that time, which thofe who bear malice againft others, fail not to take advantage of, much as the practice is in Italy in the time of the carnival. . Hence it is that prudent people who are not obliged to be abroad upon this proceflion, keep for the moft part clofe at home for the laft days of the feftival, and efpecially the Turhi/b Mobammedans, who are known ; for they are enemies to Hu/fein, and friends to Omar, whom the Perfians moft mortally hate. Their hatred is not near fo great for other nations, no not for the Indians, who are heathens, to whom they fay no- thing; there is however an un- {peakable concourfe of people upon this Thefe precautions are Srange fo much the more neceflary, as the?*udice. 1704. YY Anew garden of she King’s. Reception after the manner 0 Perfia. GOR NED eS aloe: BRU. Y N this occafion, as well ftrangers as in- habitants of the city. It happened that every thing was tranfacted this time without any diforder, which is fomewhat extraordinary, con- fidering the great animofity of the adverfe parties, who never {pare each other whenever they chance to meet. . Upon the simeteenth, 1 went to fee the Chriftian place of burial, where we ftaid till break of day, and from thence went to the King’s new garden, which is of great ex- tent, and furrounded with a wall of earth. We there faw the fith- ponds far advanced, and a fine plantation of young trees, rofes, and parterres full of flowers, but of the common forts. We then went to Fulfa to Mr. Sabid’s country houfe; this gentleman was our company’s inter- preter, and we have made men- tion of him before. He received us and entertained us perfectly well, tho’ we were above forty in number. The walks of his garden, which were full of candles, appeared moft delightfully beautiful. The next day we went to pay vifits to our director’s friends; for he was to go away the next month and to re- turnno more to “Fulfa. He there took leave of the principal Armenian merchants, of the patriarch, and moft of the Europeans. We had. above forty of thefe vifits to make and they took us up three whole days, for you are treated every where with conferves and all manner of {weat- meats, which are prefented to you in painted wooden boxes, of great beau- ty, and adorned with all forts of flowers, of which the Perfianshaveat 1704. timesall been great lovers. Then they -¥™ bring you incenfe and rofe-water, wherewith they perfume the com- pany. Nor do they fail to prefent you a Callion to {moke with, coffee, Bed- mus, and other pleafant hot liquors ; and after dinner, fruits and other dainties of the feafon. ‘The Chri- ftians alfo give you brandy and other liquors in the morning, and wine -in the afternoon: So that each vi- fit could not poffibly take up lefs than an hour. Having acquitted ourfelves of this duty we returned to thecity, where they told us a minifter from the tukin grand vifier of the Ottoman-port had minifter. arrived the day before, with but fix or feven perfons in his train; that it was thought he was come to de- mand a paflage of the King, for the march of fome Turhi/h forces, which the Grand Signior wanted to fend into Georgia, where the inha- bitants had for fome years refufed to pay the fubfidies which the people of that country are obliged to remit to the Port. The Turk has fre- quently fent forces upon this ac- count, but they have been inter- rupted by the ftraits and paffes which the Georgians knew how to 219 make the moft of. The Turks Georgi- call them Baffa-tjoeg or Bare-ans. heads, becaufe they wear only a fmall cap open at the crown, thro’ which they have fome treffes of their hair to keep it tight on. Thefame they call the country they inhabit, which is between Turkey and Gur- gilian. CHAP. Ta Se Ky a nS a et 4 . ir a ie is a a 220 The TORO A VELS of Cit er, publ lV Perfian paintings. Their cuftoms at births, marriages, deaths, and burials. Coins current in Perfia. Great confumption of Jugar at Upahan. Ought here to have treated of the Perfian religion, but as feveral travellers have done it amply be- fore me, I imagined it might be unneceflary, and even troublefom to repeat what is fo well known. I fhall then only obferve that it bears a very near relation to the religion of the Turks, except with regard to the averfion thefe laft have for painting, feeing the greateft part of the Perfians have pitures in their houfes, and efpecially reprefenta- tions of horfes, hunting-matches, and of all forts of animals, birds and flowers, wherewith their walls are alfo filled, as hath already been Perfiazn faid. They have even profefied pals’ painters among them, the two beft of which, in my time, were in the fervice of the King. JI had the cu- riofity to pay a vifit to one of them, and I found his works far above the idea I had conceived of the mat- ter; they confifted only of birds in . diftemper, but extremely neat. . In- deed I cannot fay he knew any thing of lights and fhades, and in this all the country are ignorant, whence it isthat their paintings are very im- perfe&. This painter was bufy, for the King, in copying a printed book of flowers which came from our country, and in the colouring of which an European ecclefiaftic had inftructed him the beft he could; and for this Fine colourspurpofe they have moft admirable ia Perfia. colours; and I there met with lake which came from our parts. They themfelves make ultramarine which is the fineft blue in the world, for they have the ftone in their own country, or elfe they buy it of the Armenian painters. There are alfo painters among them, who paint canes with a certain gum which has a very pretty effect, and ftan- 4. ‘fent of them. There came difhes in the form of boxes, upon which, with the utmoft neatnefs they reprefent figures, animals, flow- ers, and all forts of ornaments. Perfons of condition there have p.,,,. alfo their books very well bound, and adorned with all forts of figures, drefled in their manner, ‘as alfo with their reprefentations of hunting. matches, companies, birds and beafts in miniature, and in charm- ing colours. Thefe books are alfo fometimes full of figures in immo- deft poftures, which they are very fond of. I met with a book of this kind at a certain grandee’s, but the painting was heavy, flat, and void of art, tho’ it was at the fame time imbellifhed with pretty orna- ments in gold and filver, and was moft admirably coloured. Tho’), if they take great pleafure in things she Per- of this fort, they would not at all fians. care to be at any expence for them, but their hands are ever open when they are to receive a pre- a German painter to I/pabana fl ape before my time; this man had been man pain, a long time in Italy, where he had*” an opportunity of ftudying the works of the greateft mafters, and painted an hiftory piece for the King. They received it very kindly, and put it up in the palace, but never once thought of rewarding the painter, who never received a farthing for his pains; nor indeed could a man deceive himfelf more to the purpofe, than to imagine a fortune isto be raifed by the arts and {ciences in that country. They are there un- known, and not at all regarded, if we except a Prince or two that has really had a tafte forthem. In a word, generofity is an utter flranger in Perfia. . 4 We CORNELIUS LE BRUYN, 1704. We had aglaring example of this pide! the year 1652, with regard to of an agent Mt. Cuneus, counfellor in ordinary, from the in the fervice of the Dutch Ea/t- India com- India company, who fent him to ‘this court to negotiate fome bufi- nefs. Among other prefents they fent by him to the King, there was a fine picture of warriors on horfe- back, which they thought would be very acceptable to the Perfians, who are great lovers of horfes; but in- ftead of receiving as expected, they coldly asked what the price of that picture was. The minifter think- ing it Improper to value it at any high rate, appraifed it very moder- ately, upon which they were fo good as to refolve to keep the pic- ture, and to give him the price he had valued it at. To thefe we might add many other examples of the kind, which we fhall referve to another opportunity, and fhall now {peak of their births, marriages, and burials. Three or four days after the birth of a child, they fend for a church- man, to whom they declare the name they intend to impofe on the child, which he blows into its ear three times, and then performs cer- tain ceremonies, after which the Parents fpend the reft of the day in mirth and jollity with their friends. It is not the cuftom with them to circumcife till a child is feven or eight years old, and even fome- times later according to the whim of the parents, and never upon the eighth day, asthe cuftom is with the ‘fews. Then they entertain the com- pany, and endeavour to exert the greateft vifible joy upon the happy occafion of having initiated a child into the number of Moflems or True believers, according to the law of Mohammed, as it is revealed in the Koran ot Alcoran. Of thir As for marriages, when a man their mar-has a mind to take a wife he does “=~ not addrefs himfelf to the party he would have, but to her parents or relations ; and when they have agreed upon terms, they fend for an eccle- fiaftic, who asks the man, If he Vor. I, Caftoms at births. Of circum- cifton. 242i will have the woman to be his wife? 1704. to which anfwering in the Afirma-~-~ tive, he then propofes the fame que- {tion to her, who anfwering in the fame manner, this done, the fame churchman draws up the marriage articles, for they have no notaries in Perfia, by which the married man affigns a certain fum of money to his wife, who, by vertue of this contract, figned by the husband, is for ever pofleffed of this dower, even tho’ her husband fhould part with her, a cuftom allowed of in this country; and when he dies, his heirs are obliged to pay her this fum, together with the eighth part of the moveables he leftbehind him. More- over if the woman dies firft,and leaves children behind her, the husband, in cafe he marries again, and has chil- dren by a fecond venter, is obliged to give the firft wife’s children their mother’s dower, andan equal propor- tion of hisown fortune, which they are to divide with the reft. When a Chriftian, or any other perfon who is not of the Per fan reli- gion, embraces their faith, he in- herits all his father’s fortune, and the fortune of all his relations, ex- clufive of all others who have not apoftatifed like himfelf. And in cafe two Chriftians enter into the Perfian infidelity at the fame time, the next heir of the two of courfe enjoys alone all the fortune of his Chriftian relations that die. : It is lawful for the Perfians t0 Coney. take as many concubines as they dizes. pleafe, or as many as they can keep; and when it happens that they put away one of thefe, itis not lawful for her to have commerce with a man, till forty days are paft and over, for fear fhe fhould be with child. For the reft, all the children of thefe concubines are reputed legitimate, and have their fhare of the father’s fortune like the reft. When parents give a daughter in pooyop ih marriage, they give with her fuch maidens. a portion as they think fit, and fhe engages herfelf, by a proper writing for that purpofe, to claim nothing thereafter of what they att: San) fhall 222 1704. The TRAVELS of fhall leave behind them, of which tem yeu) fhe has already received her part, and fo difclaims all right to thare with her brothers and fifters in what they are to divide in the fequel. When they deliver this portion to the husband, they put all her cloaths and moveables upon horfes, and the reft is carried by feveral pers fons, who are laden alfo with con- ferves and other dainties. This ce- remony may be called a proceffion, which is more or lefs {plendid ac- cording to the quality ef the per- fons, and it is always tranfacted with the found of inftruments, This is performed fome days after the confummation of the marriage, and upon this occafion they prepare, as itis always in the night, a well il- luminated apartment in the husband’s houfe. The men goin firft, and the women follow them in great form. The Grandees havealfoa wife who is commonly ferved by the husband's concubines, and honoured with the titleof Khana,whichcorrefponds with that of Khaz, aflumed, by their huf- bands. ‘They eat alone, and are at- tended at table, as the cuftom is: with others, by. fome-of the concu-. bines. - The children of both are. e- qually legitimate, and equally par- take of the father’s fortune; and “when it happens that one of thefe. concubines produces a child, it is remarkable that the lawful wife rejoices mightily upon this occafion, in confideration of the honour that thereby accrues to her husband ; who, when he has a mind to be with one of them, firft fends one of his eunuchs to her apartment, for they have each of them one apart, and. he orders her to bathe and purify. herfelf; fhe immediately obeys and decks herfelf out to receive her Lord. ‘Thefe concubines eat together with- out any other company. ‘The King takes toyhim as many wives as he pleafes, and chufes them from amongft the fineft Georgian, Ar- -menian, and other Chriftian maidens. he can poffibly find; there is a perfect equality between them, and the firft fon that is born. of them, is heir to the Crown, without any re- At. Itis carried by common porters, gard had to the mother he is born 1704. of ; nor does this give her any pre- —W™ eminence over the reft. When this Prince turns one of them out of the Seraglio ; if fhe has had no chil- dren, he marries her to whom he pleafes, and often to a perfon of very inferior rank. What follows is what I 6bferved 7,24. with regard to their deaths and burials. Two or three hours after the deceafe of a perfon, they fend far a Mola or ecclefiaftic, who goes through certain prayers and cere- monies. Then they put the body into. a. coffin, which they carry to the wafhing-place, without the houfe, in a place appointed for that purpofe, there to wath and. purify and preceded by fingers and: other perfons, with ftaves.in their handa, and {witches and {treamers; the re+ lations follow the body, rending their cloaths, tearing their hair, beating their breafts, and perform- ing other acts of defpair. The bodies. of perfons of higher rank, are furrounded by churchmen and other perfons. who bawl, out mourn- fuldirges, The friends that attend them make woful lamentations, bus perhaps more out of cuftom, than for any. grief that affe@ts them to that extravagance. Neither the relations nor friends differ in drefs from what they commonly wear, except thofe that go before the corpfe, and fome that let down one end of the folds of theirturbans, For the reft, they. do not go two and two, but promi- {cuoufly, and without any order. When they have been at the wafh- ing-place, and have wafhed the body, they take cotton and therewith ftop. all the apertures, as the mouth, the noftrils and the reft, The, whole. : | difference in what is practifed with | regard to the dead bodies of men, and thofe of women is, that men wath, the men, and women, thofe. of their own fex; and follow them:to; the grave; for-they carry them direct» ly from the wafhing: place: to. the: tomb, where they again perform: a: fervice of; prayers.and ceremonies. Thea Coin of Perfia. CORNELIUS LE BRUYN 1704. Then they wrap up the body in a xu winding fheet, and commit it to the earth, obferving that it refts up- on the left fide, with the head tothe eaft and the feet to the weft, and with the face turned toward the tomb of their prophet Mohammed. Then they raife a vault of earth or clay over the body, and fill up the grave, upon which they place a ftone, or erect a tomb, and frequently a dome, when the perfon is of diftin- tion. The King even fometimes honours them with a royal fepul- chre, which is accounted facred) and for which they have a very ex- traordinary veneration. Some of thefe tombs are alfo in form of a temple, crowned with fine blue glazed domes, which have a moftad- mirable effect upon. the eye. As for their money, the greateft part of their filver coin is the Ha/faen- denarte, or a piece of ten Mamoedjes, which are worth about eight-pence of ourmoney. They have Daezajie or pieces of five Mamoedjes ; Paen» zajie, of.twoand an half; pieces of two Mamoedjes, called = = — = = QS S SESE SS » I Up > GS (% yf SS y, RSS S& Pei) \ niet Se Nt BEN A AN ce SND OPO Lata Dore SMS or en seem eReade Be “4 m4 SE AC aee aMO OO RN IET ORO OP LS O0. Pa LLL PPS SP AIGA VLOLL LLL ALLL ALLL PLLLLLL LLL SALALLLL. LALLA AAA Age LILLE. rT A A I A FA A AA I ZZ ZL LLL. LLL LLL LLL Lk. LLL LE EILLL LTT LT LLLLETLLLLLLLL ET AT ST A A AT A A A 2d LIZZ LLZLLE LILLIE. PS LP FEE MT ree eee LL LL Zan LLL EBS PRESS AA / LLL LAE, A A BE LLLLLLLL LALLA LOTT TT LLL AT LILT LL LILTLE, TT as Moe ar SLPLPPLLL A PEL LA LA AA ALA ALL LAZZLZE LLAMA PA ALA AAA AALLL LLZZLLLZLZZ PZZZZ 222 Ze OO ee ZILLI ILL LLL LLL LLL LL LIL LLL ZA LILLIA LIAL ZA LZ LILA ALA A App AAI ZA 4) Uj WEEE CO iy, Nara a ae OE YELL ZIZLLZ LLL LLL PLA PP PSPS SPP. LLL LLL LL 77 LEE PEP Ee LZLLLLIA. LILLIA Lip LZLZA LLL LIZZ aT A A LALLA ALAA AAA ALLLZ LET Lhe LLP PIA PALA AP LPLIOP EC ee Wee v SUPE ee aee race wee saetunen : Ses. eee . ; : z Pe Ke 3 tae be ra k Oe tae neaviceten tenia teehee han feos seat ieommanies tn! tb a tian Spi Baagenioctn asa ; tien talon rm S5 : ay : ean c een an rane cage Nn t \ Ta er RS eae ner nail + ee sae ape Serio eae Ha eae eile Beye wis mit a> ; ° neni Se edi ce at trapalot AaB Midliieeeen cy ve Nik: py eBARI oboe Ee roe ” oe «aq \\ \\\\\ \\\\ | LLZ \ SS WS ANS % cena palbes He mats; in ol sel Fair ek a Na ; neh rey 1704. CORWNMELUUS LE BRU Y NN other parts. They pretend that LA the firft of them which was brought Piftachio frees. Semaeg. hither, came from the town of ‘Feefd, which is feven or eight days journey from hence. Someof thefe trees are twenty or twenty-five palms in circumference, and particularly in the Chiaer-baeg, and in many other gardens where I have been. They are commonly forty or fifty foot high, and are as upright as a matt, with few or no branches but at the very top. The bark is of a bright grey, and the leaves like thofe re- prefentedin number 96, The planks of it are proper for gates and doors, fhutters and the like, and the tree is yellow marbled within, which is very much efteemed in this country. The largeft and moft robutft of thefe trees are worth one hundred Rix-dollars, The Piftachio is alfo of a good fize there, and hasa fine head, laden with fruit. ‘The leaves of it are not very unlike thofe of the laurel, ex- cept that they are a little rounder and larger; you feea branch of this tree in number g7, diftinguifhed by the letter 4. The bark of it is red and yellow, when the tree is in full vigour, otherwife it is bright, green and yellow. Moft of the leaves of it are upfide down, red and yellow. They make a comfit of the hell of this nut, which they efteem very much, and pickle the kernels of it before it is ripe, juft as we do green cucumbers. There are wild Pi/ta- chio trees in the mountains, which beara very {mall nut. They producea gum, which the inhabitants receive in a {mall cup of clay, froma wound they make, either in the body of the tree or the branches of it. This gum has the fcent and colour of terebinth: They colle it in the month of Augu/?, and put it up in little leathern pouches for fale. It is a wonderful remedy or unguent. This country produces another tree called Semaeg, not very unlike an alder, except that the leaves of ic are {fhorter and more full of fibres, befide that they are pointed intheir rotundity. The fruit, you fee di- ftinguifhed by the letter B, and Vou, I. which is fourer than verjuicé, is 1704. likea cat’s tail, and full of {mall ex-—-~w crefcencies. They ufe itin fauces, and when it is dry they reduce it toa powder, and eat it with roafted meat; it is medicinal alfo; they ufe it together with rofe water to rinfe the mouth and gums, and pre- vent the fcurvy. 225 Perfia alfo produces a fhrub cal- Kakie: led Kakienets or Akekinfbe, which®*> rifes two foot above the ground, and fhoots out branches which can hardly fupport themfelves. Each of them bears four, five, fix or feven of their fruit, which is - like a bell clofed in, and of a fine red orange colour within and without; you have a branch of it, laden with its fruit, inletter C, this fruit when dry is ufed to ftaunch blood. They make it up into {mall cakes, which they call Trocz/chi-Alkekingz, which they again convert into {mall pills, having previoufly boil’d them in water and terebinth, and they take them in a glafs of wine or water. The Annaeb is a tree of pretty ah, tolerable growth, whofe fruit is like the olive before it is ripe, and be- comes red afterward. The tafte of it is admirable, and this they ufe alfo medicinally. ‘There isa branch of it diftinguifhed by the letter D, and they are all after the life. The chief fruits of Perfia are pus, of almonds, piftachio’s and peaches, sees. of thefe laft there are four or five forts, great and {mall, fome of which part from the ftone, and fome do not. The former are called She/- aloe, and thofe whofe ftone opens with the fruit, Hoe-le; they have fome blue like plumbs, others are like apricots, and there are fmall ones that are yellowith. As for apricots they have eleven 4, ico, or twelve forts of them, each of which have a particular name; but in general they call them Zarda-/oe. There are, however, but few c,,,,:.. cherries in this country, fome of which are like thofe of Spain, and the reft are like black morella’s, the former are called Gze/as, and the lat- the Alce-baloe. Mmm . But 226 1704. ibe TRAVELS of But they have many apples, and w-v~ of feveral forts, which, in general, Apples and ey call Sien, and many forts of pears. Plumbs. q pears, and among the reft, the Ber- Zamot, winter pears, and fummer pears, of which fome are very large, and efpecially they have fome of the former which keep all the year round. They there have four forts, of _ plumbs, blue, white, red, and yel- Quinces. Pomegra- naLES, Grapes. low. ‘They eat the white half ripe with falt, andthe blue are the true plumbs de Brigzole. They have here alfo two or three forts of quince-trees, called De-bée, the fruit of which is admirable and eaten in the hand. It is very large, and very good to preferve. They have alfo ftore of walnuts and fmall nuts. Pomegranate-trees abound here alfo, and bear a delicious fruit; tho’ fome there are of them that bear no fruit at all, and only a great red flower like a poppy. Some of them have their leaves ftreaked with white, and are moft charmingly beautiful, andothers of them are yel- low. I had the curiofity to paint fome of them as you will find them reprefented in number 98, and in number gg you have a prett tree, all the branches of which hang down to the ground; the leaves of it are fine, long and thin, and they call it Biede-makalagie. ‘They have but one fort of figs, and thofe none of the largett. But they have ten or twelve forts of grapes, which in general they call Angoer, tho’ each fore has a name peculiar to itfelf. They have three or four forts that are blue, fome of them round, others long, and all very large. They have alfo two or three forts that are white, and fome of them very fweet, and without ftones. They have another fort, whofe bunches are a promifcuous mixture of large and {mall grapes, different from all I had ever feen elfewhere. They dry them every year, and making them a kind of comfit, they put them into earthen pots, and fend them to Batavia and elfewhere. In this manner it is they do it; they I pick and ‘cull the grapes very nicely, 1703. and cover them with dry rofe-leaves ~~ in a ftone jug, which they then ftop up fo clofe, that no air can have ad- miffion, in this ftate they leave them for fome days, after which they break the neck of the veffel and take out the rofe-leaves, and fepa- rate all the grapes, which they put into another veflel, and being thoroughly dry, they fend them in- to foreign parts. The rofe-leaves are only intended to givea pleafant flavour to the grapes; but care muft be taken that none of them remain with the grapes, for fear they fhould caufe a rot. At the fame time they fend to the Indies almonds and pi- {tachio’s, from whence in exchange they receive fweatmeats and other dainties. . Plants and roots abound as much py; and in Perfia as the fruits. They rec-roas. kon they have above twenty-five forts of melons, which in general ! they call Garbie-f2, tho’ each of them, moft of which are excellent, has a name peculiar to itfelf. There | are fome of them that weigh twenty pound, and which they keep all the year round in cool and clofe places, and efpecially in the fummer, to fave them from the violent heats. Nor do they ever want fnow for that purpofe, and they there know how to condenfe it into ice to refrefh their wine. Thefe great melons are called Garbie-fat-belgience. The firft melons that appear are the moft in- fipid, but then they are the moft wholefome ; they arealmoft all white, The water-melons abound there no lefs, and they have four or five forts of them, as well red as white, and which they call Hindoen. . The fmall Citruls are there alfo in the fame plenty, fome of them ftriped with green and black, and very beautiful; others of them marbled’ with feveral colours, and not larger than a China orange. I have filled a picture with thefe fruits, inter- mixed with peaches, and another fruit called Chamama or woman's breaft, ofan admirable red. I have preferved the ftone or feed of _" an - Opa Ge eo c: camellia caneeny EE HIRI fc 5 opts Dtoesiniten ia ai tie r j er an ae eee Sree ¢ ae binge hel 14 mes ‘ . . ¥ i : : ’ epee ER Nile, tye GRANADE FLEUR DE ? ILLES ET AUTRE FRUITS _PETITES CITROU : } j iy 3 + Ne pa NITED my 1 a et Ae te i SELL OF RARE ARR RR TERI i If tt RATERS Se fe - i 3 Lon PE GIS SA AIRE A AB ee: Se mw imate Ca NORA, : ; £ , ' : sali esc Gees ee rane Bn tha EON Oe : : pl Uiten Mio sires : SENS SARA PN RE aE aa pte ‘ y . LE BRUYSN pence or five pence for a pullet, 1704. and ten or twelve pence fori CORNELIUS 22% 1704. andabunch of the grapes I mentioned uy~ to confift of great and {mall upon the Produ&ions Perfia alfo produces all forts of othe carrots, beet-roots, and parfnips, feven-pence or eight-pence a piece ; pe horfe-radifh, radifhes, turnips, to- a good tame goofe forty or fifty, a pinambers, mufhrooms, colly-flow- large turkey feven or eight, and ers of extraordinary fize, fome of the young ones in proportion. Their which weigh thirteen or four- caponsareexceffively fat, and not very teen pound, favoys, afparagus, ar- plentiful and indeed they are feldom tichokes, celery, leeks, onions, purchafed but to make prefents of. fhalots, crefies, dragon-wort, par- Befides all this, they have plenty of fley, chervil, favoy, mint, coriander, fnipes and woodcocks; many forts Annileed, forrel, purflane, marjo- of wild ducks, teal, cranes, wood- ram, fage, borage, cabbage-lettice, pigeons, turtles, larks, thrufhes, and fuccory, and Roman-lettice, with a _partridges with red heads , which can Jong leaf, and which they eatin only be fhot flying, or taken with the the hand, which is fweet and very hawk. pleafant to the tafte. Nor do they However, every fort of deer is want for fpinage and rue. here {carce enough, but cattle, and. Flewers. “This country alfo produces very efpecially beeves, abound; you may common tulips, andugly carnations, have twelve pound of beef for the the lily, the tuberofe, narciffus, value of twenty pence, tho’ the feveral forts of junquils, the hyacinth, Perfians eat but little of it, if you the marvel of Peru, the mallow, the except the dregs of the people: It is fun- flower, the musk-flower, violets, almoft all foldat Fulfa, and among -and marigolds, moft of which have the Chriftians. ‘They likewife do been brought from Ewrope, for the not give above fifteen or fixteen flowers of their own are very indif- pence for twelve pounds of mutton ; ferent. They have alfo the flowers but they raife the price of it as of faffron, the fineft forts of which winter comes on. ‘The fame it is come from Mazanderan. Though with regard to goats flefh. There rofes both redand whitearetherevery are many wolves and foxes in this common, they make a prodigious country, but they are very fmall. quantity of rofe-water, which they They alfo commonly give but Price of fendto India,and elfewhere ; and they eightor ten pence for twelve pounds read. ufe a great deal of it themfelves, of bread, and twenty pence or four for they are great lovers of perfumes, and twenty for the fame quan- and never fail to fprinkle their friends tity of rice, eight or nine pence for with rofe-water whenever they en- as much wheat, and feven or eight tertain them, but it never {pots their pence for as much barley when it cloaths. is not winnowed, ‘They give it to They have alfo two forts of jeffa- horfés, becaufe they have no oats in mine, the beft of which is very Per/ia ; but they have ftore of Spanifh much like the Italian, the fmell wheat, which they drefs before it is excepted. The other is more com- quitéripe, and fprinkling it over with mon, and runs up very high upon fale water, cryitaboutthe ftreets to fell. trees, and has a particular love for The butter they ufe in their fauces, Buster. the Sena; nothing can be more and in féveral of their dithes, is fold charming to the fight. after the rate of five or fix Florins Abundance Befide all this, Perfia is produc- for twelve pounds, and their freth ie tive of every neceflary of life, and par- butter, which is admirable, for feven fame ftalk; you have the reprefenta- tion of thefe fruits in number 100. ticularly abounds with poultry and game. You there do not commonly giveabove fix pence for ahen; four a partridge. Of thefe there are fome not bigger than quails and pigeons: Wild ducks are there worth about or eight Florins. The oil they ufe for the fameoi. purpofe, is made of the feed of Kousjae, 228 1704. The Kousjae, and is not very unlike our WAV olive oil, except that it hasa ftronger They ufe camel’s dung for firing in- fread of turf. Root of Rugnas. {mell with: it. You have twelve pound of itfor fifteen pence. ‘They have, however, another fort which is better, and extracted from the feed of Kousjit, which cofts as much again. The feed of Maize, which, in the Ea/t-Indies, they call Kayang, is alfo of great ufe in fauces. Befides all this, Perfia produces {mall red and white beans, not unlike thofe of Turkey; peas, white and grey; {mall black beans for horfes, and green peas of the growth of Europe. Wood is very dear in this coun- try, and fold by weight ; they give you but twelve pounds of it for four pence or five pence, and the fame it is: with regard to coals. Whence it is they are obliged to make ufe of turf, made of camel’s dung, cow dung, fheep’s dung, horfe dung, and afs dung. The chief Armenians of Fulfa do fo as well as the reft, or elfe the fire would coft more than the victuals; where-. as they give but thirty pence for two hundred and twenty or two thou- fand and thirty pound weight of this turf. They ufe it more particularly for heating of ovens, in which they bake moft of their meats in this coun- try, without trouble and at a {mall expence. Theufe they make of this dung contributes much to the clean- linefs of the highways, whence they are careful to remove the filth as well for this purpofe as to manure their lands. They even apply hu- man dung this way. . I forgot to fpeak of the root of Rugnas, which the Indians call Solt- man-doftyn, and which they find in the province of Shirwan, and in the neighbourhood about the city of Tauris. They trade greatly with it to the Indies, whither, one year with another, they fend three hun- dred packs of it, each pack of about one hundred and fifty or one hun- dred and fixty pound weight. The Manfha, or twelve light pounds of it, is commonly worth above twelve Mamoedjes, which make about two Rix-dollars or five Florins. TRAV ELS f They every year alfo, from Tauris 1704. and Cashin, fend to the Indies feven “VW or eight hundred hampers of Auri- pigmentum or Orpiment, which the Perfians call Zernig. ‘Thefe baskets, each of them, contain one hundred and fifty or one hundred and fixty pound weight, and a pound of it, according to its degree of good- nefs, is worth from three quarters of a crown to three half crowns. They ufe ic much for painting in this country, and for feveral other purpofes. I think they alfo fend it into Turky. Orpiment. Perfia moreover produces a pre+ Famous cious drug, unknown to many peo- 4s: ple even of the country itfelf. It is a kind of gum they call Mummy, which they find in the neighbour- hood of the city of Laer, in cer- tain ruins or grotto’s. It is foftand black as pitch, but {mells pleafanter, and drops from the rock. ‘That which affords the beft is locked and fealed up, and none but the Gover- nour of Laer, and fome other Grandees are allowed to go in and collect for the King; and they do not get together above eight or ten ounces of it a year, fo that it is a very great rarity. This gum is admirable for fra€tured bones, and they affure you that let the human body be bruifed and broken ever fo much, it reftores it in twenty four hours time. To this purpofe they melt in, to the quantity of a pea, with butter ina fpoon, which they make the patient {wallow down, and then apply the fame quantity of it, or a little more to the afflicted part, or in proportion as the cafe requires, and then they bind it about with linen, and ufe fplints, for a broken leg. They attribute the difcovery of this medicine to a hunter who had broke the leg of a ftag, which neverthelefs got from him. The {tory relates, that the hunter return- ing the next day to his fport, fhot, as he thought, at another ftag, but was much furprized to find it was the fame, whofe leg he had broken the day before, and efpecially upon obferving the fracture was almoft I cured. | | | Hy oe «aoe Re Oe Oe ee ee oy et vee eee Eh |e eS ee se CORMELTUS LE BRUYN, sae r7o4. cured. The rumour of this acci- {moke of the firft is much more 1704. expe) dent fpreading round about, they pleafant; but the beft proof is by ~V~" attributed the fuddennefs of this breaking theleg of a fowl, and then cure to the vertue of this gum, applying it as directed above; this the affair happening near the place is a proof that has been made {e- where it drops. They made experi- veral times. For the reft, as this ments of it upon other wounds, and mummy belongs wholly to the King, it failed not of exhibiting the fame and as there is but little of it pro- effect; nor was there more defired duced, it is very difficult to to give it a great reputation. get any of it, and efpecially for In the country of Loreffan, they money. Thofe, however, who have find another fort of it, which pro- the charge of it, do fometimes fend duces much the fame effect, but it fome of it privately as a prefent to is three or four times as long in the firft munifters of ftate. That perfecting a cure. The difference of Loreffan is not quite fo fcarce to between thefe two forts, is known be met with, I flatter my felf I have by putting fome of each upon burn- fome of each fort; if I have not 1! ing coals; the fmoke of this laft has am very much miftaken. the {mell of pitch, whereas the | Cs a ae le som as at Coat Can ea CTA | CH A P. XLVI Defcription of Julfa. Drefs of the Armenians. Cuffoms ob- ferved by the Armenians at births, marriages and funerals. The education of their children and their manner of living. Of zhe Europeans shat live there. Of foreign minifiers. Deforip- Alesua town or fuburb of Fu/f2 or of Samfha-baet, which belongs tion of is divided into feveral parts,and to the old colony, and is inhabited a particularly into the old and new by merchants and artificers; (4) colony. ‘The old one, which theycall that of Erwan, full of common Soeg-ga,is inhabited by the principal people; (5, 6, and 7) are called merchants; and they fay their ance- Nagt-/iewaen, Siachfa-baen and Ka/- ftors came thither from feveral parts, ef-fie; thefe are inhabited by the andeven from the frontiers of Turkey, fame, and all thefe people are called in the reign of Abbas the great, and after the diftri€t they live in, with- that this Prince affigned them cer- out any other diftinction. tain lands for their fupport. The Old u/fa is much larger than Gawres, the ancient followers of all the other diftrits put together, and Zoroafter, fettled there likewife with contains near two thoufand families, | fome ftrangers, we fhall {peak of in of which are thofe of fome of the the fequel. moft wealthy, and moft confider- New ‘Fulfaishigher up, andfub- rable merchants. NewJulfa.divided into feveral diftriéts, (1) They have their own Ka/antaer that of Gaif-rabaet or of Koets, in- or burgo-mafter, and their Betgoedaes habited by ftone-cutters, who work or chiefs of diftriéts, who are as for buildings and tombs; (2) that judges todecide in allcommon caufes, of Tabriefe, full of weavers and ar- but thofe of more importance are tificers in ftuffs, among whom are referved for the King or the coun- fome Frenchmen; (3) that of Toe cil of ftate, and are afterward put Vou. I. Nan into Oud Julfa.. 926 oo Na ad The 1704. into execution by the burgo-mafter wary and chiefs of the diftricts. Building of Julfa. The old ‘fu/fa properly belongs to the King’s grand-mother, whom they call Nawasb-ali, a title they com- monly confer upon perfons of great power and condition: But all the other diftrits we have enumerated are under the Nagaf-bafhi or chief of the King’s painters. . ‘They have ne- verthelefs their particular chiefs, and they had formerly a burgo-mafter. The firft diftrict of Fulfaz, which is the fouthward, confifts of a large ftreet, inhabited by Guebres, that is, by thofe who have embraced Mohammedifn within three years; their wives, by ancient cuftom, go with the face bare. I never was able to get a thorough under. ftanding of what thefe people were till after my return from the Indies, and therefore I fhall defer what I have farther to fay of them till that time. The principal buildings of Fulfa arethe churches, the chief of which is that of Anna-baet or of the bifbop, concerning which, we fhall declare ourfelves when we are to fpeak of the baptifm of thecrofs. The fecond, _ which has a fine dome, is that of Surpa-kroop or of St. Fames, full of paintings, reprefenting facred ftories, like that of the bifhop; it has fome vacant places on the right-hand, and the women are there divided from the men. The third, which is the largeft, is that of Surpon- tomafa, or of St. Thomas, tis long, and, on each fide, fupported by three {quare columns. This church has no paintings, and all the walls of it are white; the dome of it is very low, and you go up to the altar by three f{teps on each fide. Befide thefe churches, there are eleven or twelve fmaller, and lefg adorned. There are alfo thirteen or fourteen in the new Fu/fa, but they are {mall, and not at all remarkable. The principal Armenians have fome tolerably fine houfes in the old ‘fulfa. The chief of them is TERIA ViETLIS flowers and other ornaments, and 1704; The Wn) of has feveral looking glaffes. cieling of it is vaulted, and divided into four compartments, in the middle of each of which is a golden (tar, intermixed with fome colours, and the walls of it are crufted with marble to the heighth of two or three foot. At the two ends of this hall there are niches full of feftoons and foliages interwoven, of unfpeakable beauty. Through the front-gate, which leads to thefe houfes, you come into a court, in the middle of which there is a fine round par- terre, and a courtin the fame form behind the houfe, with a building a- parc for the women, after the man- ner of the country. When I had examined into what was curious and remarkable in this houfe, the mafter of which enter- tained me very {plendidly, I went to fee that of the burgo-mafter Ho- gaes or Lucas, which I found to be as large as the former, but not fo gaudy. From this, I went to that of Arjiet-Aga, before which there was a great garden; it is alfo very large and full offine apartments. That of Hodfhe-Saffraeshasalfoa large garden, and all the walls of the houfeare paint- ed and full of figures as big as the life. Among others there is a Tur- kifh man and a Turkifb woman, and feveral other figures dreffed after the Perfian and Spanifb manner, at fome diftance the one from the o- ther. Upon the top of this houfe there is a fine terrafs, whence you have the moft inchanting pro- {pect in the world, in which King 4- bas tooka fingular pleafure in his time, The houfe of Hod/he- Agamaet is one of the loftieft and beft adorned ; it has a beautiful apartment next to the ftreet, with fine large windows, and the terrafs of it is charming. The houfes of Hod/he-Ovannis, of Hodfhe- Murfa, and of feveral others yield in nothing to thefe. Some of them have a elegant marble fountain with a wa- terfall in the fineft apartment, or at the entrance without. that of Hod/be-minozes, whofe great All thefe houfes are extremely neaines of hall is all gilt, and painted with 2 neat and well kept; the rooms of #hehouje:. 7 them KeMME ARMENIENE. Tid ted STC ra aiemanrars LETTE L a THis eh " fee ea: i Yee Ge VWiptige= tan posites, — . iat 4 i lhe te Al ni keen me rela cess serene fay S, Sacaiies ee eee ee # % : 3 4 | LO ee set on sae ASS see oh Ms atch whos ey gee Penta ets * se tne rte sp CO RAN: ELS ) Loh BRU Y Ni. ae 1704. them are covered with fine carpets, y™) and full of cufhions of gold and filver brocade. ‘The front-gate of moft of thefe houfes is very fmall, partly to prevent the Perfians from riding in on horfeback, and partly to avoid any fhew of the magnificence within. The chief ftreets are adorned with fine fena’s, planted oneach fide. Drefsof The drefs of the Armenians dif- she Arme- fers but little from that of the Per- mane" ans, except that they are not fo neat, nor are their turbants fo nice- ly folded: befide that, they are not al- lowed to wear them of the Perfian mode any more than green flippers. Of thea 8 for the better fort of the 4- men. menian women, they, like the Per- fran ‘women, wear a half band up- on the fore-head,, adorned with pre- cious ftones and pearls. Under this band they have a golden Chambara, adorned in the fame manner, and two fingers broad, and down the cheeks they have a {core of golden ducats, and other ornaments, enriched with pearl, which comes underneath the chin, and the lower part of their face, quite to the nofe, is covered with a veil, faftened behind the head. Befide this, they wear another veil about the neck, the ends of which are embroidered with gold and filver, and this is alfo faftened behind the head, and thefe two veils are never taken off. They have a third em- broidered, which covers their neck, and goes over the two others; this alfo is faftened upon the head and falls down to the bottom of their upper garment, which is common- ly of gold brocade, and lined with fables. ‘The garment they wear un- der this is of a flowered ftuff, and they have a third which does not fall below the knee. Their fhift is of embroidered taffeta, or fome other rich ftuff, and a little fhorter than their upper gar- ment. Under this they wear drawers of a fine ftriped fattin, buskins or boots after the Perfian mode, and flippers either yellow or red, for green they are no more allowed to wear than the men. The girdle is made of thin plates of gold or filver chafed, and is four or five 1704. fingers broad, and under this they “ws have a filken one with a buckle; for the reft fome of them fet them with precious ftones. They have commonly two or three gold chains about the neck, by one of which hang {mall boxes of perfumes, and ducats by the reft. Thefe chains they wear with the addition of a coral necklace, to every third bead of which they hang either a fingle or a double ducat. They wear al- fo golden bracelets, and: have their fingers laden with ringsz Inftead of the furred gown, they, in fummer, wear another garment, fhorter and without fleeves, which does not fall down below the knee. You have this drefs reprefented in number ror. The maids drefs nearly after the , of of manner of the married women, ex- 4, young cepting with regard to the head, as women. likewife the veil which coversa part of the face, and the other which covers the neckand breaft ; fothat they wear none but that which the women have about the neck. For the reft, they wear a band, or rather a dia- dem, upon the forehead, embroider- ed with gold and filver and inriched with pearls. In fhort, when the Armenian women appear abroad, they differ in nothing from the Per- fan, except that they are obliged to cover their faces, with their cloaths which they hold in the right-hand, to prevent their being feen. But it is now high time to pro- ceed to the cuftom or ceremonies obferved by thefe people at births, marriages, and funerals. When they have a child born a-cufoms as mong them, their firft care is to4irts. give it a god-father, and at the end of fome days, a woman carries this child to church that it may be baptized ; fhe delivers it into the hands of the prieft, who dips it three times, naked, into a bucket of wa- ter, which ferves them for a font; the prieft all the while pronouncing a certain form of words, as the cuftom is with us. He thenanoints the child with holy oil, upon the head firft, then upon the mouth, the breaft, ee ee ee Pe Pee ae NT ae ee ye et Re Ree mam ae Li eee ee ee ee) eer See, a a ee? ee 228 1704. Wn Marriage CEreEMONIES . The TRAVELS of breaft, the neck, the hands and feet ; after which he wraps it up in its cloaths, and carries it up to the altar, where he crams the facrament in- . to its mouth. This done he puts it upon the arms of the god-father, who covers it with a ftuff, he pre- fents it; after all this they return, preceded by fome priefts, who have a crofs in one hand and a taper in the other, and finging the Gofpel to the found of fome inftruments. The godfather, in this manner, follows them to the houfe of the child’s pa- rents, holding alfo two lighted ta- pers in his hands, and having de- livered up the child to its mother, he diverts himfelf the reft of the day with the friends and relations. For the reft, they have here commonly the fame godfather, for their chil- dren, and when a child happens to be born a little before Eajfer, or the feftival of baptizing the crofs, they are obliged to have it bap- tized upon that fame day. It muft here alfo be obferved, that neither this godfather, nor any of his near relations, can marry with any of thofe of the child to the third or fourth degree of confanguinity. And even when it happens that a girl and a boy of different families have been reprefented by the fame godfather, they may not marry together. Their marriages have fomething odd enough in them ; the parties do not go through a courtfhip as elfe- where: The parents on each fide make the whole agreement among themf{elves, and draw up the marriage contract. Upon the wedding day the bridegroom fends for mufic, and invites fome friends to his houfe, and they put a taper into the hand of thofe fo invited. In the midft of this appear a group of young girls, who dance in the ftreets to the found of drums and hautboys, and are follow- ed by women laden with wear- ing apparel and jewels. Thefe girls when they are got to the bridegroom’s habitation, faften a crofs of green fattin upon his breaft, and the men and, the women retire into feparate apartments, where 1704. they are entertained with conferves, YW and choice liquors. Then they bring the cloaths of the bride and bride- groom in two baskets, with fome trifles to be prefented to the young people who affift at the wedding ; and the priefts perform certain ce- remonies by way of bleffing this apparel, which when done the in- tended couple put them on. The bridegroom being thus dreffed, goes with fome of his friends, and two or three of his relations, to the apartment of his fpoufe that is to be, where he is received and com- plimented by his father, or brother, or neareft of his relations, who gives him fome exhortations, and wifhes him all forts of joy and happi- nefs. The young girls, formerly mentioned, then faften another crofs of red fattin, upon the firft, andthe women bring him a handkerchief, which they give him to hold by one corner, and the bride by the other. ‘The bride is now covered with a fine embroidered veil, thro’ which, however, you may fee her cloaths, and her face is covered with a red taffety, which hangs down to her feet ; and thus fhe fol- lows her husband accompanied by feveral women veiled, while he is preceded by all the men, and thus they go to church, with each a lighted taper in hand. As foon as they are got thither, the relations take the handkerchief from the bridegroom, and then go each to his place. As foon as mafs is begun the confeffors appear, and confefs the young couple, whothen go up to the altar, where the prieft asks the man, if he will have the woman offered to him to be his wife, and if he will honour and cherifh her, whatever may happen to her for the time to come, whether fhe be taken blind, or lofe the ufe of her limbs, or whether fhe be afflict- ed byany other accident of the kind? The man anfwering in the affirma- tive, the prieft asks the woman the fame queftion, fhe anfwering in the fame manner, the prieft firft joins 2 their . ‘ = | 1704. CORN E Lil Dieyithe BROUY Noy 229 their hands, and then their heads, wer which a brideman keeps together The portion of Girls. with an handkerchief, and then he covers them with a crofs. In the mean time they read over the office for the occafion, and fay the ufual prayers; then the prieft takes the crofs from off them, and ad- minifters to them the facrament of the altar, and every one returns to his place. When mafs is over, they o out of the church; the priefts walk before the new married couple, to the found of drums, haurboys and the like, the couple continuing to have the handkerchief, already men- tioned, about their necks, and being followed by all their friends. At the bridgegroom’s door, they meet with a great bafon full of fherbet, with which they entertain the priefts and all that are invited, whom they per- fume with rofe-water, which they take out of a filver pot. Then they condud& the men and the women to two oppofite apartments, in expecta- tion of dinner, which being ready, they fit about it, the women ftll apart from the men. ‘This dinner is placed upon a large carpet fpread upon the ground, upon which they fitafter the manner of the Orientals. They firft ferve up conferves, with all forts of liquors, and then the meats. But we muft not forget that when the bride and bridegroom have re- ceived the facrament at their mar- riage, they keep them {feparated for three or four days ; but when they havenot, they conductthem that fame night to the bridal chamber, where, having perfumed them with rofe-wa- ter, they leave them to themfelves, Some days after the wedding, they bring the bride all that had been promifed for her dower, which commonly confifts of apparel, of gold, filver and Jewels, in propor- tion to the means and condition ofher Friends. Thereto they alfo add {weatmeats and fruit, and the whole is broughtc in fine wooden pails, to the found of feveral inftruments, as has already been obferved with re- gard to the Perfians. ‘This, how- ever, is fometimes deferred till the NMoren birth of the firft child, and then they 1704. add a cradle and every thing elfe“V© neceffary for theinfant. The couple alfo, fometimes, go to church on horfeback, and return in the fame manner ; they even marry them in private upon certain occafions, and in the night, in the prefence of a {mall number of relations. But of all that is praétifed among Tina the Armenians, nothing feemed more in their extraordinary to me, than their dad, cuftom of marrying their children in their moft tender years, fo that there are but few that have not been married at the age of ten or twelve years. They betroth them even when they are not above a year old, and frequently while they are as yet in their mother’s womb. The reafon they give for this is, that when girls are unmarried they are in danger of being taken away and locked up in the Seraglio, a mif- fortune they hope to avert by this way of marriage, tho’ there are not wanting inftances to prove that this rule is not without exception. As I have already made mention Ceremonies of the ceremonies they obferve at at fune- their funerals, in the account I for."** merly gave of my voyage upon the Wolga, Uhave here only to add, that the women are prefent upon thefe occafions as well as the men, and that the priefts and deacons fing hymns and other funeral chaunts by the way. Four perfons carry the body upon a bier, and they have fometimes eight or more to relieve eachother by turns, when they have far to go. Thefe bearers are always of the common people. They put the body into the ground without any coffin, with the head raifed a little up, and the prieft throws three times earth upon it in the form of a crof{s. When they return from the fu- neral, the company goes to the houfe of the deceafed, and are there en- tertained both at dinner and fupper. The fame ceremony is continu- ed for forty days together, with regard to two priefts and two dea- cons, who every morning go to Ooo the yn 230 1904. The the grave of the deceafed, and read rA- over it certain portions of the Gofpel, The bad education of their children. and fing fome verfes of the P/alms of David: They are paid for this, and have commonly ten pence atime; fo that funerals are very expenfive mong thefe people. Tho’ the Armenians are very fuper- ftitious in exterior things, they are almnoft quite carelefs of fuch as are more folid, and which they ought to have more at heart, and efpecially for what concerns the education of their children, who are oftentimes men before they can fay the Lora’s Prayer ; nor is this to be wondered at, feeing they are married fo very young, that they have frequently children before they themfelves are well out of the ftate of childhood. So that they are fo taken up with family affairs when they come to an age when they mighc¢ be fit to learn fomething, that it is impoffible they fhould make a proper ufe of it. In a word, there is no likelihood that a mother, who has never been taught any thing herfelf, fhould be abie to inftruct her children in any thing. And indeed the women are deftitute both of wit and genius, and entirely void of allcharms; this is an obfer- vation I had made, and particularly at funerals, where there are fome- times two or three thoufand of them together, and who look like fo many aged matrons, paft all their bloom and beauty, however young they may be. This is fo much the ftranger as they have every day be- fore their eyes the Perfian women, who are well fhaped, beautiful and agreeable, with a noble gate, and a charming air in every thing they do and every thing they have upon them, which appears even in the manner wherewith they adjuft the white veil that covers them. Nor are the Turks and the Greeks lefs taking in their air and all their mo- tions; while, on the contrary, the Armenian women are quite difagree- able and difguft you. ‘The linen with which they hide the mouth,con- tributes not a little to this, and makes their cheeks fwell; nor to fay that they are generally {mall of fta- GRAN ELS of ture, and clumfy of make. turn the back upon you, a piece of guilty of, and they are to the. full as unmannerly in company with their neareft relations, when they offer them a glafs of wine, which, turn- ing themfelves to the wall, they never fail to tofs off, let the fize of the glafs be what it will. From the care they take to hide themfelves from the eyes of men, it might be imagined that they are invincibly chafte, and moft rigidly vertu- ous; but he that fhould conclude thus would be moft egregioufly miftaken ; for there are a number of them who proftitute themfelves for money, and who, difguifing themfelves as men, go on horfe- back with their mothers to J/paban, where they drive on a little trade, while the poor husband thinks them proof againft all temptation, on- ly becaufe they never unveil them - felves; but men were not thus to be deceived in ancient times ; for ‘fudab took Tamar to be a profti- tute, becaufe fhe was covered with a veil. The men for their part, think of z,,5,,. nothing but heaping up money, and ments and how to make it turn to account when they have got it; their wholemenians. ftudy is fo bent upon this, that they are unmindful both of the other du- ties of life, and of what pafies in the world. And yet they cry up Perfia above all the other countries under the fun, and imagine it to be the fource ofall arts and {ciences, tho” they are as little able to judge of the matter as a blind man is of colours; for tho’ they continually travel in Europe, and carry on a great trade there, they never give themfelves the trouble to examine into what is curious and remarkable there; nor, indeed, would they ftir a ftep out of their way, or be at the leaft ex- pence whatfoever, to fee what is fine even in their own country. They know nothing but what they have heard from others, and I took no- tice that thofe who travelled with me, When 1704. rou meet them in Sulfa, they always =~ J - y ? y y Incivility of the we- rudenefs the Mobammedans are never men. 1704. yw into with fo much care. CORN Ej lghys (hE eR U YN me, took no notice of what inquired For this reafon when [hada point of curiofi- ty to fatisfy, I always had recourfe to ftrangers and the efficacy of my money, and had nothing to do with the Armenians but in the Bazars, where they trade; for all manner of things, out of the common courfe of their bufinefs, are above the reach of their underftanding, which is altogether uncultivated. As foon as they have learned to read and to write, their mafters, who live at Sulfa, fend them about, and when they go to, or come from J/pahan, they commonly ride double upon an horfe, a mule, or an afs, which is to be {een in no other country. When they trade with the Per- fians, upon their market days, in their little fhops, in the city, where they fellcloth by the yard, they dare not drink wine, or any other ftrong liquor for fear they fhould be fmele; fo that they groan under a more heavy flavery than even that of the Greeks under the Turk. And this 231 with each other ; a judgment, how- 1704. ever, may be formed of it by an exam- WN ple I wasa witnefs to. Two brothers had had a difpute together upon fome tranfaction in trade, which is in a manner the foul of an Arme- nian ; they failed not to go to law together, and the eldeft, who was in poffeflion of what was difputed, pnplacable and able to make large prefents to+#Mred of the judges, failed not to gain them over to him; and being blind, he, one day, faid he was heartily glad he had loft his fight, that he might not have the vexation of feeing his brother, and that he fhould not be forry to be taken deafas well as blind, that he might never hear of him a- gain; a monftrous effect of hatred! His brother who had married in France, where he had left his wife, and whence he had brought two little girls he had by her, came every day to our director, to implore his protec- tion againft the injuftice of his bro- ther, who wanted to have him feiz- ed by the Mohammedan judges, ashe had fer ved him once before, and from Pie flavery fo preffes them more and whofe clutches he could not be free vine fer- More every day by frequent ad- but by a found baftonading. tavo bras thers. Ville ditions of weight, that it is to be feared they may one day or other be {tript of all their privileges, if they do not embrace the errors of Moham- Many of the chief of them have Mary ar- already renounced their Saviour, and ae abjured the Chriftian Faith, for the/?/““4,,;. fake of Mobammedifm, and particu-fianFaith. Dipute a: medifm. And this misfortune in dout divine their fituation muft, in part, be im- Service. puted to the difputes which rage a- mong them, not only between fe- veral of the Bifhops and the two Patriarchs, but even between the two Patriarchs themfelves, who can- not agree together upon points of difci- pline and other particulars. Nordo the Perfians negle& to make the moft of thefe their differences, or to faith in thefe troubled waters, by fum- moning them to appear before them, and overwhelming them with im- pofitions, two inftances of which hap- pened while I was in Perfia; whereas if difcord did not inflame and divide them againft each other, they might do great things, fince they are in no want of money, which com- mands all things in this country; but it is impoflible to exprefs the natural bent they have to difagree larly with a view to enrich them- felves, and to amafs great fortunes. One of thefe renegadoes, who had been upon the pilgrimage to Mecca, to vifit the tomb of Mohammed, retur- ned from thence while I was at I/pa- han; moft of the Armenians went out to meet and pay him a thou- fand compliments; whereas not a foul goes out to welcome the Chri- {tian pilgrims that come from eru- Jalem; no body careffes them. The authority of the Mobamme- Authority dans is {o great in this country, that of she Mo- two Portuguefe Monks were obliged banme to embrace Mobammedi/m, the one in perfia. the year 1691, andthe other in the year 1696. The firft, whofe name was Emanuel, aflumed thatof Huffein Celebek,or the flave of Hufferm,and the other, whofe name was Anthony, was called 4-Celiebek, or the flave of A/s, 3 The S 77% a bs Te REE POMS oe ROE “i i ced ia, Fy ba the STR AVE Re: of 1704. The convent of thefe Portuguefe married than they conform to the 1704. ta. fathers is in the city, and is a fine Portuguel’ and a large building, well ftored ’ with apartments; but there is but one of them there now, namely fa- ther Antonio Deftiero, whom we had occafion to mention formerly. There are alfo two French capu- chins, whofe convent is likewife in the city. The Carmelites alfo have a fine convent there, and a large garden; but there is now only one of them, who is, by nation, a Pole. There are however two others, either French or Danifb, who came from Italy, and live in a little houfe they have in ‘fulfa; where four jefuits have built them a pretty chapel after the Italian manner, by the fide of which they have a very fine houfe with a beautiful well-kept garden. Befide thefe there are three Dominicans, who have lately built them a new chapel. There are feveral other Europeans at Yulfa, moft of them French, and three of Geneva, one of whom is a gold{mith, and the others are watchmakers ; their namesare Szorde, de Finot and Batar, and two phy- ficians, the one a Frenchman called Hermet, and a Greek born at Smyrna. They are all of them, except Frnor, married to Armenians of low birth, fo that they have much ado to live; for there is no. bufinefs here for ftrangers, as has already been obferved. Moreover, the Perfians have able phyficians and tolerable mathematicians among themfelves; but they know nothing of furgery, nor make any account of foreign furgeons. Nor indeed have they any great regard for thofe in the fervice of the King, whofe allowances are paid them in bills upon other cities, which they are obliged fome- times to difcount at a third, and fometimes at an half lofs. For the reft, it is impoffible to expect an advantageous match with any woman here, feeing there is hardly one example of an European married into a rich or a confider- able family. Nor are they fooner Capuchins. Carmelites. J cfusts. Domini- ans. cuftoms and manners of their wives, ~~ whom they fhew to none of their countrymen; but to fay the truth of the matter, this change is chiefly feen among the French; for the Engh/b and Dutch adhere to the practices of their fathers. A fignal example I faw of this in Mr. Kaftelein our director, whofe wife, a Lady of birth and merit, was efteemed by every body, and regretted by all. She appeared always, with her daugh- ter of ten years old, at her husband’s table, which was open to all the Europeans; but whenever he went to vifit thofe in Fu/fa, their wives were not to be feen. And upon the whole they retain nothing of their country but the language. Itis not fo with the ftrangers who refide at Conftantinople, Smyrna, and other places under the dominion of the Turk, where the Greek women they marry, make no difficulty to fubmit to the cuftoms and manners of their husbands, or to conform to their religion, in which they train up their children; where- as thofe of the Armenian women we have been {peaking of, follow the religion of their mothers. I am not ignorant that I might ,, be here confronted with the example srdella of the famous traveller Pzetro deljq Valle. Valle, a Roman Gentleman, who married at Bagdat; but befide that love is apt to triumph over prudence, one fingle example can never be ex- hibited as a rule. For the reft, I hope I may be here allowed to ftop my hand, with regard to this ad- venture and this marriage, which was tranfacted in the fame convent where I lodged in my return from the Indies, that I may not be under a neceflity of hurting the reputa- tion of that illuftrious Roman, who has left us fuch fine remains be- hind him. Nor have the Armenians a- Apoftacy of lone been very ready to embrace“ Geor- Mobammedifn , the Georgians have®*"* trod in the fame path, the great among them as well as the {mall, as may be feen by daily exam- 3 ples ; 1704. “a\-~ tle valued by the Europeans as the CORNEL?US Vike BRUY SH amples; and indeed they are as lit= Armenians themfelves. There are, however, feveral of them who have gained great reputation for arms in | Perfia and elfewhere. Foreign Minifters, Before I conclude this chapter, I fhall by the way fay a word con- cerning the public Minifters who come to the Court of Perfia with letters from fome of the Chriftian Powers, and of whom there are fe- veral, who moft affuredly deferve not the ftile of Minifters, and who ought to be. accounted no better than mefflengers, and letter carriers. And, to fay the truth, they refle@ but little honour on thofe who fend them, feeing the chief end of their journey is, that they may be exempt from paying the cuftomary duties on the goods they bring along with them, a privilege granted to all who are charged with fuch letters to the King of Perfia, They are even furnifhed with the carriages they want, wherever they go, and have likewife allowed them a cer 233 tain fum fer day, in proportion td 1704. their number of followers, during all »WY the time they are at this Court; but the fum is fo fmall, that the meaneft Minifter might blufh to receive it. Upon the whole, it cannot but be wondered at, that the Chriftian Princes fhould frequently employ Armenians to deliver fuch letters to the King of Perfia; and that thefé people fhould be fo far able to im- pofe upon them, as to make them- {elves pafs for perfonsof any confider- ation; when nothing is more certain than that they have neither honour nor confcience, and that without {cruple they defraud and even ruin thofe who are fent with them to court. As for their religion, the facility with which they every day deny Chrift to embrace the errors . of Mohammed, makes it very evident that they are but little acquainted with the truths of their own reli- — gion. This is a neceflary intimation to thofe who are ftrangers to this country. Bh BONES BONE, BNL, Se MEs Fae a BbNES ee peaks ae ea ON R IE CHAP. XLVI. Dutchmen who embrace Mohammedifm. The proclamation ‘i | the Korog. The Conftancy of a poor Armenian, and his Death. BOUT the end of this month of May, I went out of town with Mr. Bakker, our director’s de- puty, in queft of game along the ri- ver, and particularly of a certain bird called Morgl-facka, or the Water Carrier, which had been often ob- ferved in that neighbourhood. We perceived him at a diftance in the air, but could not get near him, which I was very forry for, hav- ing never feen the like, tho’ he is often in the parts near the Wolga, Afiracan, and the Ca/pian-Sea. This bird is of an extraordinary fize,and has a great pouch, filled with water, which, as they fay, he diftributes Von. to other birds. In fhort, finding we had no fport this way, we threw nets into the water, and took a large quantity of fifh, which we pre- fented to our director ; and in the evening returned to town, where, the next day, there was a great hur- ricanie. ‘Upon the firft day of Fune there pypacy arrived at I/pahan three Dutchmen, of fome who had run away from our India company’s fhip at Gamron, and em- braced Mobammedifm, in hopes to make their fortune; but they found they had taken the wrong ftep to that end, and were reduced to the utmoft mifery, no body having af- Ppp forded Dutch- men. 234 Korog. The TRAVELS of 1703. forded them the leaft affifttance on wy~the road. Nor, were they _bet- ter ufed in this city, heaven, as it fhould feem, refolving to punifh them for their apoftacy. In this diftrets, they came and prefented themfelves at the gate of our direétor’s houfe; but he fent them word to be gone, and apply themfelves to thofe whofe faith they had newly embraced; they, however, returned foon after, and intreated him to take them again into the company’s fervice, affuring him they were in the deepeft defpair for the faule they had committed, and that they moft earneftly defired to be received again into the bofom of the Chriftian Church. He told them it was not in his power to grant their requeft ; that they were to throw themfelves upon the com- pany’s mercy, and return to Gamron, where, according to the Laws, they had deferved death, and that, upon fuch condition, he would write to the director of that place, to defire him to fend them back again to the Indies. ‘They accordingly fub- mitted themfelves to this, declaring they had much rather expofe them- felves to the hazard of being put to death than perifh in the fin they had been guilty of. Upon this condition they were received again, and cloathed; for which they feemed to be fincerely thankful, and foon after returned joyfully to Gamron, from whence they were fent to the Indies, where they obtained a par- don for their crime and apoftacy. Upon the fifth of this month, as I was bufy in drawing a profpect on the river of the Chiaer-baeg, or the fine alley of I/paban, I was interrupted by a confus’d noife, and upon liftening to it, | found it was the Korog. ‘This is a cry to warn all people that the King is coming with his concubines, and that every perfon is to get out of the way upon pain of moft rigorous punifhment. I accordingly retired among the reft, as. faft as I could, and the Prince went by foon afterward. He was preceded by a man on horfeback who rode full fpeed, to difperfe I fuch as had not been able to get out 170 of the way foon enough ; and he pre- “~~ fently came up with me, and fhewed me the way I was to go. I obeyed him inftantly, and took a long circuit to return to the city, where all the avenues to the ftreets through which he was to pafs, were lined with guards, to keep people from going that way, fo that I had much ado to get to my lodging. The next day I went to the fame place, and found all the ways guard- ed as the day before, and fome a- venues of the Chiaer-baeg {pread with certain cloths. Whena man, upon thefe occafions, happens to be furprifed, he muft get out of the way with the utmoft diligence ; but they commonly give warning to every one to keep out of the way and even to quit his houfe, whether by night or day, as long as the Korog lafts; and I have been often obliged to leave my Caravanferaz upon that account, Soon after this, there arrived two Gyyners gunners from the Indies, whence from the Mr. Kaftelin had fent for them to ™"** ferve the King. This Prince being informed of their arrival, acquaint- ed them he would have but one of them, and him they did not keep long, and while they did, allowed him fo fmall a falary that itis a fhame to mention it. Indeed this gunner, who was cloathed before he was prefented, was only to fhoot at a mark with fome fmall pieces of cannon, a diverfion the King never was prefent at ; but what is remark- able, they were as long in preparing what was neceffary for this trifling exercife, as we fhould be in building a fortrefs. And indeed they foon difmiffed this gunner, who to fay the truth, was not of a turn to take with this people, who are not to be {atisfied but by great afliduity, and the moft extraordinary application. Upon the /evezteenth of this month guise 4 : bfe of there was a great eclipfe of thetbe moon. moon, which appeared red, and was almoft entirely darkned. Upon the fwenty-firft there were fome clouds in the sky,after a feries of clear weather 1704. es ame Quarrel between fome Eng- ith and Perfians. Greachery of an in- Lerpreter. CORNELIUS LE-BRUYN weather, during which there were none atall to be feen ; they were ofa fine blue, without any dusk, a fight common enough in this country. In the beginning of u/y there arofe high winds, which were fucceeded by a greatheat. | Upon the third of this month they opened the fhops, which had been fhut up for five or fix days to- gether, for atime of mourning they obferve at this feafon, and which, if I am not miftaken, they call Waghme. At this time thofe who have any differences between them, endeavour at a reconciliation, and to renew their former friendthips, pro- vided their intereft have no fhare in the cafe, for then their confciences are not fo mighty tender. At this time there happened a difpute between fome of the Engli/h Agent's fervants and certain Per/ians, and from words they fell to blows. The Perfians ina rage, and breathing nothing but vengeance, malicioufly gave out that one of their country- men had been killed by an Avme- nian in the fervice of that Minifter, upon which all the fhops in the diftri&t where he lived were fhut up. The people, fired with the no- tion of this pretended murder, ran with their complaints to the high Bailiff who was a Georgian, and had been a Chriftian. This man, with- out any orders from his fuperiors, fummoned the Agent’s interpreter, who was an Armenian, and made him fign a paper, by which he o- bliged himfelf either to produce the murderer, or pay a certain fum of money in default thereof. This he did without any {cruple, though in his confcience he knew there had been no murder, and even accufed his countryman ; which was the ~ eafier for him to do, as his matter, who by his authority might have warded ‘off the blow, was fick in his bed. In the mean time they cried aloud for vengeance for the death of a low rafcal of a Perfian, who had been only cudgelled for his great infolence; and they treated all the Franks, (fo they call the Euro- 235 peans) asmurderers, and carried their 1704, complaints to the Court. tisfied with this, they in a rage car= ried the effigie of a dead body to the Chiaer-baeg, to inflame the minds of the populace ; and even obliged the firft Minifter to demand the pretend- ed murderer from the Exgli/b Agent, who had fheltered him. ‘This Mini- fter, at the fame time, had an order to difcharge all his Mohammedan {er- vants ; upon which the Exgl/h de- mandeda refpite of eightdays, which was granted them. ‘The poor in- nocent Armenian had in the mean time concealed himfelf in u/fa, where he was betrayed by the in- terpreter, we havealready mentioned, who produced him to the officers of juftice, who carried him to prifon; but the inraged and intoxicated mul- titude, not at all appeafed by this, demanded him, and they were forced to deliver him into their hands. They then confulted what they fhould do with him, and the moft moderate of them were of opinion they fhould releafe him, and would have made a prefent of him to the King; but the reft were violently againft this, and laying their hands on their fabres, dragged him away, in defiance of law or juftice. They were the more exafperated againft him, as they had in vain endeavour- ed to feduce him over to Mobamme- difm, with a promife of life and liber- ty in that cafe, and of aconfiderable fum of money befide, and to procure him an advantageous marriage; but tho’he had immediate death before his eyes, he rejected all their offers with an unfpeakable fortitude and heroic Co 0 Not fa-wwns nfiancy A an conftancy. He even anfwered fome menian Armenians who had themfelves a- 2d 2is poftatifed, and whoexhorted him only to feign a compliance, faying, He would never deny bis Saviour and his God; whereupon the Perfians inflamed with frenzy and rage, fell upon him and cruelly deprived him of life. They then dragged him to the great fquare of the palace, where many of them thought they could ne~ ver enough infult his body, or vent a fufficient number of impreca- tions cruel death. Te TRAVELS 1704. tions enough upon him; they even AYN tore out his bowels and threw them Ff proved to be the weakeft, upon this 1703. occafion, had recourfe to complaints, “vw into the lay-ftall; nor could even the women forbear to treat him with barbarity. . Thus died this Chriftian heroe, this faithful fer- vant, who had never forfaken his mafter during the whole courfe of his illnefs, but had conftantly and diligently tended him night and day. His name was Gregory Affa- foer, and he was but twenty years of age; a man of extraordinary for- titude and of an heroic courage, as appears by his death, fo worthy to be admired by all Chriftians. The proper officers ordered his body to be carried to ‘ulfa, where he was buried in the church of St. Savior, the fineft of all in that diftriét; and an Armenian, amerchant, at his own expence, erected a tomb over him, that he might to generations to come tranfmit the memory of fo glorious a death, and at the fame time exhibit a teftimony of the love and friendfhip he bore him, It is eafy to conceive what a ter- ror this tragical and_ barbarous bloodfhed infufed into all the ftran- gers at Ifpahan, who were fome days before they dared to appear abroad, for fear of expofing them- felves to the fury of a mercilefs multitude, who were drunk with the impunity of their crime. For the reft, it muft fairly be owned that, before this accident, they always paid a great regard to the Engh/b and Dutch. Asat this time we expected fome of the company’s goods from Gamron, people were fent to meet them according to cuftom, and to carry them to our warchoufes. And this is done to prevent the Perfians from infulting thofe who brought them, and turn- ing them out of the way, which, as ic ufually happened, they failed not to do this time. Our people finding they were attacked and in- fulted by thefe infidels, and their bales thrown down, made head a- gainft them, and it happened that the fon of the King’s firft phyfician, who was prefent, received fome blows of a cudgel. The Per/ians, who a : and demanded fatisfaétion for the injury they pretended to have re- ceived; and our dire¢tor, to whom they addrefled themfelves for this purpofe, promifed to fatisfy them af= ter he had examined into the mat- ter; upon which they withdrew, but returned to the charge the next day; when, in their prefence, he caufed one of his fervants to be feized upon being found guil- ty, and ordered him a baftinado upon the foles of his feet; but they had hardly begun to infli€t that punifhment upon him, before his accufers interceded for him, and declared they were fatisfied ; a pro- ceeding very different from what they had exerted fome days before againft the fervant of the Engli/h Agent, who had been only guilty of cudgelling a low rafcal, which ne- verthelefs coft the poor man his life. For the reft, this nation is fo very vindictive and nice, that all the European Minifters who are here to watch over the concerns of the powers that fend them, ought to take particular care to maintain the dignity of their charaéter, and never to fuffer themfelves to be infulted with impunity. Never was there any man who acquitted himfelf better of this duty than Mr. Hooghkame, with whom I had formerly travelled to Con/tantinople. He was afterward fent to Perfia by the India company, and there gained the efteem of every body. And yet he was once engaged in a troublefome affair with one of the _ principal Lords of the Court, whofe fervants had fome difpute with his; and coming to blows, and the Perfian laying hand on his fabre, this Minifter {natched out a piftol and declared to him, That if he dared to draw his fword he would fhoot him through the head ; upon which the Perfian — commanded his people to be quiet and withdrew. And it was pru- dently done of him, feeing he was the weakeft; for the Mini- {ter was attended by fome European foldiers, ihe Perfian fap | a oe @esNELLUS*"L EuB RU Y N 1704. Tldien againft whom they would tw have been put to it to defend them- felves. Befide all this, they fup- ported the dignity of his character _by a great magnificence, and by a con- ftancy proof againft all obftacles, articles abfolutely neceflary in fo haughty and difdainful a nation. And indeed they paid fuch regard 1704, 263 to him that they never failed tomy make room for him wherever he appeared; and even the King and the court efteemed him as much as the Europeans, and they ftill honour his memory. Be PRR PREPARE PRR PR PRR PEPPER PEPE EAE PRP PR PE & HAP XEVU, Death of the Englith Agent. His Funeral. Preparations for the marriage of the little Prince/s, his Majefty’s daugh- ter. Mourning of the Armenians. Mountain of Sagte-Ruftan. HE Perfians at this time fo- lemnized the feaft of Baba- geds-ja-adier, that is, of the invincible father of the divine fervice, a title they confer upon one of their faints, who was putto death by Omar. A little after this, there was another Korog in the neighbourhood of the royal palace, with orders for all who lived within the limits of ‘ic to go out of their houfes, and the Caravanfera’s. The fame thing happened again two days afterward, the King having a mind to recreate himfelf with his concubines with- out the walls of the palace. The mufic of this was heard in the even- ing and plaid all night, and the next day to the fetting of the fun, becaufe the feftival of Mohammed ‘was to be celebrated upon the twentieth. Death of _ Upon the twenty-firff, Mr. Owen, vee the Engli/b company’s Agent, died, Agent. : 7 in the fortieth year of his age. He was a man of worth and ho- nour, and very much efteemed by every body. Thenextday, we paid him the laft honours, and he was carried to the place where they bury all the Chriftians, in the man- ner following. Our director’s deputy (the direc- tor himfelf was ill of the gout) Vou. I. Ancient Fortre/s. went at break of day to the houfe of the deceafed, with all our direc- tors family, and fourteen horfes, among which there were two which we led, covered with black cloth, and preceded by a trumpet and thir- teen runners. Firft, before the body appeared the deceafed’s ma- {ter of the horfe, with the interpre- ter and fome others, followed by three led: horfes covered with black cloth, and with plumes of white feathers upon their heads; then four- teen perfons on horfeback, attended by ten or twelve fervants on foot, and a trumpet before the led horfes, after which appeared thofe of our director, and then the body, co- vered with white filk, and over that with a black velvet pall. It was upon a bier, and carried by four -perfons, who were, from time to time, relieved, becaufe of the length of the way. The deceafed’s deputy followed py. sume. next after the body, attended by ours, re/. and all the Dutch, of the number of which I was; and likewife by father Antonio Deftiero, the Refident for the Crown of Portugal, and the Engh/h Armenian merchants of Fulfa. In this order we proceeded through the Chiaer-baeg, each with a fearf of white filk over the fhoulder, knot- Qqq ted 264 “1704. The ted at bottom, and hanging down AY to the ground, which had _ been, gi- ven at the houfe of the deceafed, with another fcarf of white gaufe TRAV EES Sy the twenty fixth, a day upon which 1704." the Armenians celebrate the feaft of MV Soerpgaets, or of the. crofs, in com- memoration of the crofs of Chrift, dif about the hat, and which thofe who ‘covered upon mount Calvary by had no hats wore about their mid- dle. The proceffion confifted of forty perfons on horfeback, and thirty fervants on foot. The French waited for us at the burial ground with fome monks, and the body faint Heleny the mother of Con/fan- tine the Emperor. In order to this, their wives go two or three hours before day to the burying ground, where they interr the Chriftians, and thither | was committed to the earth at fe-»,they carry wood, coal, tapers, and ven of the clock; when the Ezg- life company’s deputy read over the funeral fervice, after the manner of his cowntry, and then every one tak- ing an handful of earth threw it into the grave, which was after- ward filled up by the diggers. This done we returned in the fame order we caine, and were entertained at dinner at the deceafed’s houfe, where they prefented fcarves hke ours to - thofe who came back with us. They Strange marriage. fent one alfo to our director, and having been very well entertained every body withdrew, | Some days after this, I faw: all the bazars adorned with little bands of paper of all forts of colours, tinfel, many {mall figures, and other little trifles. In the evening they illuminated:all the fhops with little lamps, and-the burghers. in feveral places appeared underarms. | This was upon account of the marriage of a young. Princefs,. the King’s daughter, who was but three years old; with the grandfon of his Ma- jefty’s aunt, who was but five years old, and thefe rejoicings were upon the condudting this» young Princefs to the palace of this Lady, where” fhe was to be brought up. This is. pethaps the only example of a mar- riage. of the kind, between fuch young children; among the Per/ians; tho’ the fame be common enough among the Armenians. This Prin- cefs his Majefty’s aunt, and fitter to. _ the King his father, is called Zynab-+ Feaft of the crofs. Beggum, and had been married to the fon of Solten Galliefa, a con- fident of bas the fecond’s. Upon the twenty fecond of Augu/t, I went to Fulfa, where | ftaid till ke ae a incenfe. When they are got to this place they kindle fires by the tombs of their relations or friends, and upon thofe tombs they place burning ta- pers, and’ continually throw incenfe into the fire, making great lamen- tations, and addreffing themfelves to the dead that reft there, with more or lefs vehemence, according as they are more or lefs affecied with forrow. They even throw themfelves upon thefe. tombs, which they embrace, and: bathe them with their. tears ; and perfons of the better, fort light. up even five or fix large tapers, and cry and bellow enough to frighten one. As I was defirous to be pre- fent at this folemnity, went to the burying-ground two hours before it was day, with the fon of our in- terpreter, with whom I lodged. 1 was furprifed at the fight of thefe tombs, and of many objects that of- fered themfelves to my fight; and when I was:at: fome diftance, the whole appeared to me like the ruins of a town that had been burnt, and where thofe who had efcaped the flames, were come im the dark night with lights to look for their friends and relations, and the fragments of their wealth, at thefametime weep- - ing and bewailing their hard fate. Tho’ the husbands ftay at. home while their wives are performing this fervice abroad, there are fome men however to be feen, and priefts who pray for thofe who pay them for it; fome give them five ‘pence, others ten, and the better fort twenty ; and being dreffed in black they make an odd kind of a figure among fuch numbers of women in white. The number of women who thys' refort 3 to os TESTES Ah hy ay aR SSS? PENS en SSS “ase SSS ESO > LE BAA SSSA SO ENS Rs essen rear e a ES KR oar OCS Oe ee sae, a Et SAAR AENANE NSS E RS: sts ms SRS St heh SE Ste Sort Fate DEUIL DES FEMN Seance BR eee : ee karen < ECL SSE Naas wee uces SSeake ew SOCTECS SS Seer NS a TSE SX eee SESSA SS URC EIN SILT teh SA SORTS RCE SSNS “as eae ROSS Si SSS Ny aster aw naam es Gener “Ss 7, soe : = ‘ S S = Ss eves = Ses oe SS wate : SEE Ee IIE LE a eee : : o: POT NS LR Bese SEEPS S : os PEED, SOR LLL, 2 Z 3 So: : REDS aie a Lise: Z erat g zg a 2 SOO cs ae OIL TDI. rete 3 PRS ES a POPE e aE, ee leg ees ELLE RS TSS FLAP ORE SS PIPL REET EOE ‘ LDPE SET ALG ya ae Zz Xe Sea : 55 Ze pens Be ere ; Rae a os 4 ~ ee a ADO ne LILLE? Oil. SL BE SLEEP Ade Y ee sae APES Z 2 plgts os Ly os rete sed ISLES ta IOI EL rae ZZ Da fn GO a ona oe GE ee DR See ot ONT IED ES pe a lacie gia edbees ae ERLE Zi Seg os PLE LE oie TALL LI ALLIED é x eZ Kil eee ee ee Ze : : A i LAPSE TALI EEA AID, PIAS EGE ge Bo Caneel LZ @: = " BES eee gs : ep aree See : Bees Liv age Lox “ S : : Sea ; Sasa a 3 ine Lp TAPE Geo ar area ty Ca te . ‘ IN N iS ae Ly iY aM, = PE . E A Hf 4 > SA rs Se Sery A Ss SESE as = 3 5 See 4 SSaae eeaes A Peres Si aes . CAINS - ASA ene es <4 Ss Yi xs Seen eeeacees x: < ES 4 SEAS : Sa aS earn amrettn x Sz a fawew anes Ne ae ere \ as 2 - . . 1704. tothefe tombs commonly.amounts to ep ww three choufand, and the number of lit- a tle fires they light up, and the incenfe; i. they continually feed them with, : oe raifes a fmoke which fpreads quite a a to T/paban. Tho’ this folemnity was eee in the night, I neverthelefs traced out Ke a reprefentation of it inthe beft manner es I could, taking my ftand by the tomb a5 ~ of our director's: wifé, with my, face turned to the city; you have it in number 102. [et lafted ull about two in the morning. As I returned, I found the ways. crowded with people, and met with: feveral women who were goimg back a- gain to the tombs. When the fun a was up, the common people: re- 5 forted to the fame place, but it was only to {moke and divert them- felvesou: os. i fo 19net Upon the Jat day of the: month ¥ eS went in the evening toour diredtor’s, -* in order to go that night with his de- puty to the mountain of Koe/offa, en where there are the ruins of an an- : | cient fortrefs. We fet out at four in a. the morning, and at feven reached a moe part of this fame mountain, where : | we were obliged to alight, be- caufe our horfes could carry us no farther. My companion, who was no very good walker, left me there, and went to wait for me at the Chriftian burying ground. Ateight of the clock I'went up the moun- : | tain, attended by a huntfman and A a a fervant, provided with fire-arms, ‘i and at ten we came toan old gate- way, by the fide of which were the ruins of a wall, which former- oe ly extended to the northward quite hy to the foot of the mountain in the ; : place where it is fteepeft; this gate ae was much more worn away on the : i ee left hand than the right, you have it reprefented in number 103. A quarter of a league from hence we met with the remains of another building, deftroyed tothe very foun- dations, tho’ they pretend it to have - been a ftable. From thence are difcovered feveral fragments of an old wall, which extended far to the fouthward upon the top of the hill ; from eaft to weft, and to Be a CORN EATS? Lik: BRU YN, 2635) « the northward ‘toward the city, 1704. which is not far off, It might euwy ven have pafled for a fortrefs with- out'the affiftance of art, being very, fteep. from top to bottom, and:in- deed it never had any wall on that fide. About eleven of the clock we with great difficulty got tothe top of the mountain,’ where you have the ruins of a building, which has been. twenty eight pacesin length, tho’ but little of) nothing of it be now left. ‘The walb of ic was: full four foot thick, and is ftill pretty lofty in fome places, where within-~ fide are the remains ofiarcades. The top of this mountain alfo: is but twenty: eight paces broad from north to. fouth, and: :fixty: fourin length from -eaft to weft, and: goes floping away to the eaftward. ‘For the reft, iti extends:in length »to the fouth- ward, from, whence you's may ftill fee the ancient walls of the fortrefs which was there formerly, as they appear to the northward, in number 104. I took a draught of all this with all the care I could, becaufe they will have it that Darzus was in this fortrefs when Alexander attacked his army the fecond time in the plain. I went down thither about noon, and there to the fouth- ward drew the outward ruins that ‘remain of this building, where are ftill to be feen two half rounds in the form of towers. Upon therock alfo you fee the place where this fortrefs was begun, as may vifibly be feen innumber 105. The huntf- man, who was my guide, would have gone down on the north fide, becaufe it was the fhorteft way, and did all he could to perfuade me to follow him; but the rock feemed to me to be fo much upon the precipice, that I had not the courage to venture my felf, for fear of break- ing my bones. However I could not prevent the other fervant from following him, which he had foon caufe to repent him of; for I had fcarce loft fight of them, when I heard the Jaft call out to me to take . care how I came down after them. He had ftopped, not being able to follow 266 The 1704. follow his companion, and could Sx now neither get up nor down. I Tagte- Riflan. encouraged him to endeavour to get up again by laying faft hold on the rock ; for he had now no other chance, and he had the good luck to fucceed, while the other went down like a cat. For my part I was obliged to take a round-about fweep of two leagues to the eaft- ward, between the mountains, fo that it was paft three of the clock when I reached the Chriftian bury- ing-ground, where my friend waited for us with our horfes. After I had refted and refrefhed my felf a little, we returned back to the city, with defign, the next day, to vifit the reft of the antiquities near us, being determined to go from hence to- ward the latter end of this month. We went early in the morning to the mountain of Tagte-Ruftan, a Din: Rey 1 ss of Se league and a half from the city, and 704. upon the top of it we met with “Vw. the ruins of a certain building, founded by a warrior, of whom they relate wonders. Beneath this moun- tain there is a grot, in which there are two or three fprings, whofe water continually drops from the top of the rock. Every year, in the be- ginning of the oa of April, a great number of the Indians, called Banians, repair hither to celebrate a feftival, in honour of a certain hermit, who for a long time took up his abode here ; and indeed here is commonly one of their dervifes or faints. This grot is full of flips of ftuffs of all colours, brought hither by perfons afflicted by illnefs, who come hither for relief, after the manner of the orientals, as we have already obferved. This grot is re- prefented in number 106. : REO ty SOR ee IS Se a BORBGE. CT Or Pes Tie Since tits eee PMvegi pier RHE: ee: = * Op Sin ee Bite som tee ey Agim, NES DES FoRTER — yee : . A ii) jaa po ME a yl i \ it sae ae {3 : “rib tera SUR «Les MONTAGNES KOESOFFA. Ci ote GRE A 26 Toe SRT see ee: ee eee eee Hill entity | Alin f i DN Hg ITT il : ™~ ir i tale igen 2, Be aga Ste if CORNELAUS.LE? BRUY N, 1704. Half aleague fromhence, on thé — From hence you have a fine pro- 1704. WV fide toward the city, isa mountain fpect to the weftward, between the“ WY which affords the very hard blue mountainsand the plain, where you ftones, with which they build their havea fightof beautiful villages and tombs. We faw feveral of them a great number of gardens. I have thrown from the top of this moun- here exhibited the reprefentation tain into the plain without break- of it, with the mountain, upon the ing; but the ftones of larger fize top of which is the houfe of Ruffax. they roll down the fides which are Having thus fatisfied my curiofity not fo ftcep, I returned back to the city. 241 i I ~ 50 (GLA P. ex , | Famoig Plantations, or fine walks belonging. to the King. “The India Company's Houfe. A fine Caravanfera. Indians res or Banians. “The Author-prepares-for his : Departure to Perfepolis. : A bess OME days after, I went ordering, three leagues to the weft: with the fame friend to fee a ward of [/paban. We went by the fine plantation of the prefent King’s gardens of the fuburbs, and left Vou, I. Rie Sulfa Poser inaswn>s 242 1704. |The TRAV ELS. of *fuifa on the left hand. Having wy crofled the plain, we, at five of the clock; arrived at the’ entrance into thefe fine walks. The trees~ had hardly budded at this entrance, : be- caufe they had. not been able. to conduct: water enough to, them; but we found them farther: ad- vanced as we went on; and at ia {mall league from the entrance, we came to a very low mofch on the bath nearsic. They-areto have four 1704. gates to this fine plantation, which yw divides itfelf in. the! middle into four walks, and forms around open on all. fides, | with a, moft, charming perfpective.. The mountains are two leagues, to the fouthward of it, and .a. league to. ‘the / northward; where they have already begun the wall which is to inclofe, this plea- fant place. It was about feven of av-t~ = a oo eee a or 2 en, Oe Ss = iS ~. Maison DE LA COMPAGNIE.) JARDIN DE LA CoMPAGNIE. : 102 ————— SSSEESSSESESESESESESESES=S=SSOSHSSSS SSNS oS ol SaSaaaaaaSSSSSL“ELSLSLQLLlLQLQLlLlLQLlLlSlSTlSH— ll ESSSpSpSppS>SS>SppaEpESESESSSESESSESESEaEaEpaBaESESaBHREHSSSSSS nsenay bear am eater) oe RRR ORE RUE. se ramon see "i Nm TE Saheas NAR syn gee iat any eee oe ce Lihat ars eae Second A hii ¥ CORNELIUS LE BRUYN. 1704. ther end of it; for this plantation is \y™ two leagues in length, and proportion- able in breadth, and the walks of it are bordered with fena’s, between which they have planted willows and other trees, which are to be plucked up as the fena’s fpread. On all fides you have alfo rofe bufhes, which producea moft charming effe& in the feafon. All the lands, at the diftance of half a league round, be- long to his Majefty, and the reft to the public, at leaft what is there planted and fown; for the King is proprietor, and they pay him fo “much a year. The old walk, plan- ted in the reign of King Abbas, is at the end of this new plantation; and you enter it by a large gate, where this walk has but half the breadth it is of at the other end; and it ex- tends a good half league in length. It is alfo planted with fena’s, at the diftance of eight paces from each other, whofe branches meet at top, and whofe roots are watered by a fmall gutter or canal. Upon the fides ‘of this walk are fine large gardens walled in, and at the end a royal houfe, which makes no great figure. About eight of the clock we went into the garden of a public houfe, where we feafted our- felves, and there my friend heard that Mr. Oets, who was to fucceed him in quality of our director’s de- puty, was arrived from the Indies at Ifpahan.. From hence we went to the King’s houfe, which is not worth feeing, and from thence to, the old plantation, called Chiaer-baeg Naed- re foaf-Abaet ; and having pafled thro’ the village of that name, we met with another walk, almoft. all plan- ted with willows, and which is neatly a league and an_ half in length, and extends to’ the weft- ward. There is another again on the left-hand, whence you fee the mountains about a league off, to the right and left, and on the weft a plain which reaches beyond the fight. ‘The plate above reprefents this old plantation... About three’ leagues from. hence there is a hill. which the King has furrounded with a wall that inclofes a great number 1704. of deer, wild affes, rams, and other «wu creatures peculiar to the mountains in thefe parts. The gardens here are fullaf fruit trees, and vines whofe grapes, as well black as white, are fent to L/paban to be prefied into wine, which they were very bufy about when I was there. To the right and left of the old plantation, are five great gardens, which an- nually bring in to the King the fum of twenty-five Tomans, and two {maller,in proportion, From hence, at one in the afternoon, we went to- ward the mountains to the fouthward in order to fee fome villages; but we were obliged to go two leagues about, to -pafs over the bridge of Poelie-vergan, where the, coun- try was covered with rice, ready to be cut; and here we faw great plains full of water-melons. The King has here another houfe, in the vil- lage of Koet/hel, upon the. river of Ifpaban, which in this place is very narrow. There is nothing remark- able in this houfe tho’ the King is often there. We alfo faw a lake full of all forts of ducks and other game, of moft exquifite beauty; near the village of Kariskan. None are permitted either to fhoot, or frighten them away. From thence we returned to the city, where we arrived about eight at night. 243 Let us fay a word of our India The com. company’s houfe, the refidence eae Abed pS y AM s our director, and the other off-”~™ cers belonging to the company. It is furrounded with a high wall of earth, the gate of which 1s large and lofty, and from thence you proceed between two walls, to the ftables, but the horfes are often tied to racks without, You leave the ftables and garden on the lefe hand, to go to.the houfe itfelf, in the midft of the court of which. is a canal which runs on the fide of the place, where they receive ftran- gers; behind which is a fine. a- partment, fpread with carpets and full of cufhions to fit and reft up- on, after the manner of the coun- try. On one fide are the apart- 4 o Pen es ae Ye TRAVELS’ of 1704. ments and office of the director’s they fell olafies, In the middle of 1704. “Www deputy, and other of the com- the court of this building is awww pany’s fervants. From thence you go to the part belonging to the di- rector himfelf, paffing through a {mall paffage to it, and it confifts of three or four apartments, with- out reckoning the hall, where they dine, which looks upon this part ; this houfe is reprefented in number 107. It has a very agreeable garden, in the midft of which is a Ta/ael of wood, and a fine fountain with jets of water which, from thence, flows in- toa canal, and ferves to water the garden, by the means of a machine, which conveys it to every part. Here alfo are great numbers of fena’s and fruit trees, flowers and plants, as appears by num- ber 108. And I often amufed my- felf in this place with catching of but- terflies, flies, and other infects, I had a mind to preferve. The bees here are of an extraordinary fize, and fting very violently. | 7 In the canal of this garden I took notice of {mall fith, whofe hinder part refembles that of a frog. There are of the fame in Turkey, in alakeabout a league from Smyr- na; which lake is half a league in breadth, and two leagues in circum- ference ; it is upon an eminence, and its water is faltpetrous and foul. It is neverthelefs full of fith, and efpecially of this fort, which they fometimes catch with a line, bur very feldom. I did my utmoft to take fome of them, but to no pur- pofe. Theyare faid to be larger than thofe I faw in Perfia. It now remains that I fpeak of the Caravanferas or public-houfes at T{paban, and I fhall begin with the de- {cription and reprefentation of that of ‘fedde, which belongs to the Queen- mother of the King, near the Mey- doen or great{quare, where I lodged all the time I was at I/paban. The gate whichopens into this fquare, is a large vaulted portal, under which are {mall fhops kept by Armenians, and other ftrangers who fell cloth by retail. There is one of the fame ftruGure on the other fide where wooden barrack full of fuch fort of fhops, and a little beyond it troughs for horfes to drink at. This cara- vanfera is furrounded with ware- houfes full of goods, which belong to the Armenians and other mer- chants, who come hither every day from ‘fulfa to negociate their trade. Above thefe warehoufes there is a large gallery full of chambers, with a great ftair cafe to goup to them. Among the foreign merchants who q,a:ans oy take up their abode here, there isBanians, a good number of Indians of feveral forts, whom they there call Banzans. The chief of them are poffeffed of great wealth, and yet work like flaves to heap up immenfe and ufe- lefs riches, without any regard to honour or decency, infomuch that the moft wealthy of them hall not think much to run up and down tho’ it were but toearn a poor pen- ny. ‘There are fome of them, and the moft confiderable too, who are brokers, and in that quality ferve the Engh/b and Dutch Eaft- India companies, whofe favour and good graces they by all means en- deavour to obtain, that they may enjoy their protection and get by them. Upon the whole, they are very much trufted, and it is no un- common thing for them to have the cath of thefe two companies in their hands. Nor is there a lefs confidence repofed in the Armenians, who have alfo always a kind of bank in their poffeffion, becaufe mo- ney is there fure, and you may draw it out as you pleafe, and in what fpecie you think proper. The whole trade of Gamron in like man- ner pafles through their hands by bills of exchange. When I was at Samafhi, the Banians there asked me, by the means of fome Arme- nians, if I had no letters for our di- rector at I/paban, and if I did not want money, offering, in that cafe, to lend me what I would. I was furprized at this great civility to a ftranger whom they knew nothing of, and who was not eyen recom- 4 mended PhS illite min ae ‘ See ren cA ale eearemse Rm. Hee Fam PAO Meal HP ie 2p nh A we 905 io cee BD Fy va ah \ : , i ‘i & a Ee ee eamata cer eee tae Poder Me he ra nate h Aes BRI. te : y i . Prep See ea oe Oe ee ne Fay h, Ae mito ete AY Vamp min (ses "i Se i ‘ - £5 EWN clothe ly aah bene yh ‘a ; ms ; ‘ Pris fa vs “j ~ ee J 2, 7 Ta) | yy Pea Zi ee Di Zit i y Wy) Mi Yi : : : ae a aes 2S Se = N} MN i NY Ny Ni ware e reels ot we more B LPd. b> Pa See ZZ = errs SS ee IRIS IID, i} LDP —* HoMME BENJAN. SSS ae SSeS 3 : = = < aS Se < Z XX WN \ S Ss a LLL ADD NEES Fa ——— See ui SSS L409 SS. S55 SS WSs S ih COUREUR. aS = — SS - AS SSS NE a5 cs EEL Ta nk sy % INS Nay SSAC SSSI os SSS SSS SSO or SEG . ee SSCS AN See SESE EE My — LEZ Loz LZ My) , y Lf TI s~IAAAAAAIIZAZAA PAS AD ALA aA PZT ZZ 7 (dba bade LLisAg AZALI ADDL dy b aeigttinny Ve metre onsale inet Salpibanesabieyhsiniin al ) - * jee ES pate = " ‘ P $n ies ; 5 » . en ae BAR ele een, Neate ht Bin Ai, Hep ee a eet nee ego nS SBE WU naan toy Ra ons e re wv i ; fe i ED FPOSURELD EN 64 OTRLTR GOO THAT RTA ‘ill MU 7m ca SUTUETT TT mended to them ; but they told me this was done with a view to oblige the officers of the India company, and toinfinuate themfelves into their good graces. As feveral authors have before me treated of the belief of this peo- ple, and of the worfhip they pay to idols, I fhall only add, that they a loufe or a flea, they only throw them upon the ground, as I have ‘frequently obferved. There are al- fo feveral Armenians who abftain from the flefh of certain animals, and particularly will not tafte of an hare, becaufe they reckon it unclean ; but they are not all fo fu- perftitious. abftain from taking away the life As the drefsof theBanianshasfome- p,oj of of any thing whatfoever, not ex- thing remarkable init, I have drawn # Ba- ia es cepting lice and fleas, and that they the habit of the chief of our Indian™™™*- think they do a meritorious action when they prevent their being de- {troyed. I have even obferved that they went away from me with an air of chagrin, when they faw me bufy in catching of certain infects in a garden, well knowing what I intended to do with them. Nor do the Lurks, the Perfans, or even the Armenians care to kill Vor I. brokers, who was {fo obliging as to drefs himfelf after the manner of his country for that purpofe; you fee him réprefented in number 109. They have no regard to the co- lour of their drefs, but their tur- ban is commonly white, to which they faften little red bands or fillets, which fall upon the forehead and come down to the nofe ; they are Sss - *- commonly eo ox, ” 246: : ‘| ‘de a = "* 1764, commonly of fandal wood, and ferve them as an ornamentiof a kind with wthe patches worn by our Ladies. Moft of them are of a fallow com- plexion;. their ftature is fine. . At - their leifure hours they divert them- ' “ félves and entertain each other with © fruits, fweet-meats, and other dain- - ties, and upon thefe occafions, they often invite the Chriftians. of their acquaintance to. be’ of the company, and fend alfo for dancing girls and jugglers to amufe their guetts. Upon the eighteenth of this month, there came fome couriers from Gam-— von, who informed us there were as yer no fhips arrived from Batavia. - * ois Pr » . . _'This advice prevented our director from. detting out for that place as he had defigned, but five or fix days afterward he-fent his deputy, Mr. Bakker, thither. 1 began: alfo to prepare for my departure ; and hav- ing received and paid fome vifits a- mong the ‘Engli/b, I went to take . leave of all my friends in the city and at ‘Sulfa, not forgetting Mr. Sabid, our. interpreter, to whom I was indebted for a thoufand obli- gations. He had done me confider- able fervices, and had permitted me to draw all the curiofities in his fine gardens, by furnfhing me with all the lights neceffary to attain chat end. And as he was.a perfect mafter of the Perfian tongue, he took the trou- ble of inftru€ting me in all the nice- ty of its orthography, with regard to which moft of our travellers are guilty of very extraordinay miftakes. Hence it is that I write the word King in Perfran, Sjae, and not Schach, Sciab, or Siah; Zye-raes, inftead Schieras ; Mey-doen inftead of Mezdan, which isa Turki/b word ; Mu-zyit, ot Ma-zjit in {peaking of their mofchs,.and fo with regard to other words, wherein, as to orthography, I differ. from other travellers; in which I have followed the inftructi- ons of Mr. Sahid, and in which he was perfectly well skilled, tho’ an 4r- menian by Nation. He alfo {poke French and Dutch perfectly well; es he PRA LS GF for thie father. had lived a long time 1704. in France, and he him{elf had been \-—w brought up in the fervice of our company. .He had a perfe& know- ledge of the cuftoms and. manners of the country, and as he was . pretty well advanced in years, he was alfo well verfed in the affairs and intrigues of the court. Thefe fine accumplifhments had gained him the friendfhip.and efteem of every: body ; nor did he fail to beftow a good education on his fon, who, as well as himfelf, was interpreter to our company, and in like manner underftood French and Dutch, tho’ he was but twenty three years of age. _ Ast had formed a refolution to fet out with Mr. Bakker, of Flufbing, the firtt fa@tor of Gamron, in order to go to Per/epolis, where I defigned tomake fome Atay, to examine with care into thofe famous antiquities, and to take a draught’ of them, I went upon the twenty-fourth, to Mr. Ka/=__ telein, our director, who was fo good as to lend me an horfe for my journey, anda courier to attend me. He was. alfo fo kind.as to furnifh me with all the provifions I might ftand in need of, and loaded. me with favours, ashe had duringallthe time I -was at I/paban, where he had ~ always honoured me with a feat at his table from my firft arrival. He even had often prefled me to come and lodge with him, but I al- ways excufed myfelf, that I might be the more at liberty, and do fe- veral things I employed myfelf in morning and night. Befide this, he had always been fo bliging-as to’ pro= vide me with an horfe.and an inters. preter to attend me whetefoever I went. Nor am 1 lefs indebted to him for a greavinfight into the Per/ian af- fairs; for he had lived in Perfia one and twenty years, during which he had made himéelf a perfect mafter of the affairs and language of the country, and intrigues of the court ; nor fhall I, as long as I live, fail to make the moft profound acknow- ledgments for his many favours. The End of the Firft Volume. i * OV ty ae eh *